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• 


4* 


fit 


Ex  Libris 
C.  K.  OGDEN 


ige's  Railway  Library  Advertiser. 


JWLAND'S 


•whitens  the  teeth,  prevents  decay, 
and  gives  a  pleasing  fragrance  to 


preserves 
beautifies 


ODONTO 

the  breath. 

MACASSAR  Oil 

hair,  and  can  be  also  had  in  a  golden  colour  for  fair  | 
hair.    Sizes  3/6,  7/-,  10/6. 

K  ffll  IK  is   a   most    cooling,    healinor, 

•  »•"•••  •  •»WB«  ^3  refreshing    milk  for  the 
face,  hands,    and  arms.     It  prevents  and   removes 
Freckles,  Tan,   Sunburn,  Redness  and  Roughness  of 
the  Skin,  and  produces  a  beautiful  and  delicate  com- 1 
plexion.    Bottles  4, 6  and  2/  3. 

KIIKII      HA  is  &  beautifully  pure  and  fra- 

•  W»mw"»»r«  grant  toilet  powder.    In  three 
tints,  -white,  rose,  and  cream,  2/6  per  box. 

Ask  Chemists  for  Rowland's  articles,  of  20,  Hatton 
Garden,  London,  and  avoid  poisonous  imitations. 


[Issue. 


KEATINGS 
POWDER 


KILLS 


BUGS, 
PLEAS, 
MOTHS, 
BEETLES. 


The  PUBLIC  are  CAUTIONED  that 
packages  of  the  genuine  powder  bear  the 
autograph  of  THOMAS  KEATING.  Sold 
in  Tins,  6d.  and  Is.  each  everywhere. 


Hinth] 


Routledge's  Railway  Library  Advertiser. 


[Issue- 


"WHO  ARE  THE  HAPPY,  WHO  ARE  THE  FREE? 


nJI-  rv-. 


YOU  TELL  ME,  AND  I'LL  TELL  THEE. 

Those  who  have  tongues  that  never  lie, 

Truth  on  the  lip,  truth  in  the  eye  ; 

To  Friend  or  to  Foe, 

To  all  above  and  to  all  below. 

THESE  ARE  THE    HAPPY,    THESE  ARE 

THE  FREE, 
SO  MAY  IT  BE  WITH  THEE  AND  ME." 


WHAT  HIGHER  AIM  CAN  MAX  ATTAIN  THANT 
CONQUEST  OVER  HUMAN  PAIN? 


DRAWING  AN  OVERDRAFT  ON 
THE  BANK  OF  LIFE. 

Late  Hours,  Fagged,  Unnatural  Excitement, 
Breathing  Impure  Air,  too  Rich  Food,  Alco- 
holic Drink,  Gouty,  Rheumatic,  and  other 
Blood-Poisons,  Fevers,  Feverish  Colds,  Sleep- 
lessness. Biliousness,  Sick  Headache,  Skin 
Eruptions,  Pimples  on  the  Face,  Want  of 
Appetite,  Sourness  of  Stomach,  etc.  It  pre- 
vents Diarrhoea,  and  removes  it  in  the  early- 
stages. 

USE    ENO'S    "FRUIT    SALT,'5 

It  is  Pleasant,  Cooling',  Health- Giving,  Refreshing,  and  Invigorating, 

YOU  CANNOT  OVERSTATE  ITS  GREAT  VALUE  IN  KEEPING  THE  BLOOD  PURE  AND  FREE  FROM  DISEASE. 

HEADACHE  AND  DISORDERED  STOMACH.-"  After  suffering  for  nearly  two-and- 
a-half  years  from  severe  headache  and  disordered  stomach,  and  after  trying  almost 
everything,  and  spending  much  money  without  finding  any  benefit,  I  was  recommended  by  a 
friend  to  try  your  '  FRUIT  SALT,'  and  before  I  had  finished  one  bottle  I  found  it  doing  me 
a  great  deal  of  good,  and  now  I  am  restored  to  my  usual  health  ;  and  others  I  know  that  have 
not  enjoyed  such  good  health  for  years. — Yours  most  truly, 

"R.  HUMPHREYS,  Post  Office,  Barrasford." 

ll  "pIGrYPT. — CAIRO. — Since  my  arrival  in  Egypt,  in  August  last,  I  have  on  three  occasions 

J-J     been  attacked  by  fever,  from  which  on  the  first  I  lay  in  hospital  for  six  weeks.     The 

last  attacks  have  been,  however,  completely  repulsed  in  a  remarkably  short  space  of  time  by 

the  use  of  your  valuable  '  FRUI  P  SALT,'  to  which  I  owe  my  present  health,  at  the  very 

least,  if  not  my  life  itself.     Heartfelt  gratitude  for  my  restoration  and  preservation  impels 

me  to  add  my  testimony,  and  in  so  doing  I  feel  that  I  atn  but  obeying  the  dictates  of  duty. — 

Believe  me  to  be,  gratefully  yours,  A  CORPORAL,  19th  Hussars,  May  26,  1883.  — Mr.  J.  C.  Eno." 

*'  T  USED  my  '  FRUIT  SALT  '  freely  in  my  last  severe  attack  of  fever,  and  I  have  every 

A    reason  to  say  I  believe  it  saved  .my  life. — J.  C.  ENO." 

"  DEAR  SIR, — I  am  very  pleased  to  record  rny  knowledge  of  tho  erreat  efficacy  of  yonr 
'  FRUIT  SALT  '  in  measles.  A  friend  of  mine,  who  had  three  grandchildren  laid  up  with 
this  complaint,  administered  frequent  doses,  with  the  result  that  all  the  children  pulled 
through  wonderfully  in  a  short  time,  for  which  the  mother  was  exceedingly  grateful,  thanks 
to  you.  For  myself  and  family,  your  '  FRUIT  SALT  '  is  our  universal  remedy.  Bordering 
on  years  as  I  am,  I  find  a  bottle  of  ENO'S  '  FRUIT  SALT '  and  a  few  of  EMV3  '  VEGET- 
ABLE MOTOS  '  the  greatest  boon  in  the  up-hill  battle  of  this  life.— I  am,  dear  Sir,  yours 
truly,  A  CITY  MAN,  October,  1890.— J.  C.  ENO." 

THE  SECRET  OP  STTCCESS.-STERLTNG  HONESTY  OF  PURPOSE,  WITHOUT  IT 
LIFE  IS  A  SHAM  !— "  A  new  invention  is  brought  before  the  public,  and  commands 
success.  A  score  of  abominable  imitations  are  immediately  introduced  by  the  unscrupulous, 
who,  in  copying  the  original  closely  enough  to  deceive  the  public,  and  yet  not  so  exactly  as 
to  infringe  upon  legal  rights,  exercise  an  ingenuity  that,  employed  in  an  original  channel, 
could  not  fail  to  secure  reputation  and  profit." — ADAMS. 

CAUTION.— Examine  each  Bottle,  and  fee  that  tht  Capsule  is  marked  ENO'S  "FRUIT 
SALT."  Without  it  you  havo  been  imposed  on  by  a.  worthless  invitation.  Sold  by  all  Chewtifs. 

Prepared  only  at  Eno  s  "  Fruit  Salt "  Works,  London,  S.E.,  by  J.  C.  Eno's  Patent. 


Uintl,]  Routledge's  Railway  Library  Advertiser.  [Issue. 


FOR  INFANTS 

AND  INVALIDS. 


"96,  Brixton  Hill  4th  Mar,,  1889, 

Mrs.  E.  BARBER  writes :  "  I  beg 
to  forward  photo  of  my  little  girl 
brought  up  entirely  on  your  Food." 


MELLIN'S  FOOD  BISCUITS 

PALATABLE,  DIGESTIVE, 

NOURISHING,  SUSTAINING. 

Price  2s.  and  3s.  6d.  per  Tin. 


SHAKESPEARIAN  WISDOM  ON  THE  FEEDING  AND  REARING  OF  INFANTS. 

A  Pamphlet  of  quotations  from  Shakespeare  and  portraits  of 
beautiful  children,  together  with  Testimonials,  which  are  of  the 
highest  interest  to  all  mothers.  To  be  had,  with  sample,  free 
by  post,  on  application  to 

G.  MELLIN,  Marlboro'  Works,  Peckham,  S.E 


70,000,  S.  &  B.,  27/7/91. 


ROUTLEDGES 


MANUAL  OF  ETIQUETTE 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LSDIES 
ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN 
BflLL-ROON  COMPANION 


COURTSHIP  &  MATRIMONY 
HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL 
HOW  TO  CflR¥E 


TOfiSTS  flND  SENTIMENTS 


LONDON 

GEORGE  ROUTLEDGE  AND   SONS,   LiMiTEtJ 

BROADWAY,  LUDGATE  HILL 
GLASGOW,  MANCHESTER,  &  NEW  YORK 


CONTENTS. 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

PAGB 

I.  Introductions               -•••«.! 

II.  Letters  of  Introduction       -         •         ...         3 

Hi.  Visiting,  Morning  Calls,  Cards             •        •        .        4 

IV.  Conversation       ---.«_.         7 

v.  Notes  of  Invitation,  &c.                        ...         9 

vi.  The  Promenade           -         -        -        »        .        •       u 

VII.   Dress •         -         -       12 

Viii.  Morning  and  Evening  Parties      -        *        •         .15 

ix.  The  Dinner-table 18 


X.  The  Ball-room 


1894707 


27 


XI.  Staying  at  a  Friend's  House— Breakfast,  Lunch- 
eon, &c.          ----...31 
Xii.  General  Hints  •--..,      33 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

I.  Introduction's     ----...36 

II.  Letters  of  Introduction                         ...       38 

III.  Visiting,  Morning  Calls,  Cards,  &c.                                39 

IV.  Conversation      -         -         -         ----42 

V.  Notes  of  Invitation,  &c.      -         ....      44 

vi.  The  Promenade          --«.«.      46 

VII.  Dress .,.47 

VIII.  Riding  and  Driving             .....       50 

IX.  Morning  and  Evening  Parties      •         •         .        -51 


tv  CONTENTS. 

FAGB 

x.  The  Dinner-table 55 

XI.  The  Ball-room  65 

XII.  Staying  at  a  Friend's  House — Breakfast,   Lunch- 
eon, &c.          .......66 

XIII.  General  Hints    ••*,»•*      67 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

I.  How  to  organize  a  Ball          •        •        •        -71 

H.  Ball-room  Toilette  (Ladies)             ...  74. 

,,            „          (Gentlemen)     ...  75 

III.  Etiquette  of  the  Ball-room      ....  75 

IV.  The  Quadrille 78 

v.  The  Caledonians     -        -        -        .        -        •  81 

VI.  The  Lancers           ......  82 

Vii.  The  Double  Lancers                ....  85 

Viu.  Coulon's  Double  Quadrille      ....  8$ 

ix.  The  Polka 87 

X.  The  Cellarius          ......  90 

XI.  The  Mazurka  Quadrille           ....  93 

XII.  The  Polka  Mazurka        .....  94 

XIII.  The  Redowa,  or  Redova  95 

XIV.  The  Schottische      -                  ....  96 
xv.  The  Varsoviana,  or  Varsovienne      ...  97 

XVI.  The  Gorlitza           ......  98 

XVII.  The  Valse  a  Trois  Temps                         •        •  99 

XVIII.  The  Valse  a  Deux  Temps        •         -        -         .  lot 

xix.  The  New  Valse 103 

xx.  The  Galop      .......  103 

XX  f.  The  Cotillon  -        •        .        .        .        .        .104 

xxn.  The  Spanish  Dance         .....  106 

Xxm.  The  Tempete          ......  107 

xxiv.  Sir  Roger  de  Coverley 109 

XXV.  Glossary  of  Terms  used  in  Dancing          -        -  I IO 


CONTENTS, 


ETIQUETTE  OF  COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY. 

PAGB 
I. — FIRST  STEPS  IN  COURlSIIIP. 

Advice  to  both  parties  at  the  outset  •  -  -  •  113 
Introduction  to  the  Lady's  Family  «  •  •  •  iij 

II. — ETIQUETTE  OF  COURTSHIP. 

Restrictions  imposed  by  Etiquette         -         -         -  -116 

What  the  Lady  should  observe  in  early  Courtship  •     1 1 J 

What  the  Suitor  should  observe  -        -        -  -     1 18 

Etiquette  as  to  Presents       -        -        -        •        -  -119 

The  Proposal -        -  -119 

Mode  of  Refusal  when  not  approved  ....     120 

Conduct  to  be  observed  by  a  Rejected  Suitor        •  •     121 

Refusal  by  the  Lady's  Parents  or  Guardians         «  •     122 

III.— ETIQUETTE  OF  AN   ENGAGEMENT. 

Demeanour  of  the  Betrothed  Pair  ....  123 
Should  a  Courtship  be  long  or  short  ?  ...  127 

IV.— PRELIMINARY  ETIQUETTE  OF  A  WEDDING. 

Fixing  the  Day  -......«     128 

How  to  be  Married  :  by  Banns,  Licence,  &c.  -  -129 
The  Trousseau -  -  135 

Duties  to  be  attended  to  by  the  Bridegroom  •  -  135 
Who  should  be  asked  to  the  Wedding  ...  130 
Bridesmaids  and  Bridegroom's-men,  Duties  of  •  »  137 

V. — ETIQUETTE  OF  A  WEDDING. 

Costume  of  Bride,  Bridesmaids,  and  Bridegroom  -  139 

Arrival  at  the  Church          ...  -  140 

The  Marriage  Ceremonial  ...  .  140 

Registry  of  the  Marriage      -  -  -  144 

Return  Home  and  Wedding  Breakfast  •  144 

Departure  for  the  Honeymoon     -  •  145 

VI.— ETIQUETTE  AFTER  THE  WEDDING. 

Wedding  Cards  :  Modern  Practice  of  "No  Cards  "  -  146 
Reception  and  Return  of  Wedding  Visits  ...  147 

VII. 
fractical  Advice  to  a  Newly-married  Couple        •        •     148 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

I.  Introduction         •        .        -        -        .        .        -153 
II.  Taste  in  Dress     .......     156 

III.  Fashion  in  Dress  ......     163 

IV.  Expense  of  Dress          •        •         «         .        .        -170 
V.  Accessories  -         •        -        •        .        .         -178 

vi.  A  Few  Words  More     -        •»        »        -        -        .186 


HOW  TO  CARVE. 

Hints  on  the  Dinner-table  ----..  188 
Carving  -  •  •  191 

FISH. 

Turbot  -----...192 

Cod-Fish  .----...     193 

Salmon,  &c.  -  -  -  -  •  -  «  -194 
Mackerel  -•  ---•...  194 

joi.vrs. 

Haunch  of  Venison  or  Mutton  -  ....  194 
Saddle  of  Mutton  -  ---.-.  195 
Leg  of  Mutton  -•-«•_-.  195 
Shoulder  of  Mutton  -  -  ...  .  .  -196 
Loin  of  Mutton  -  -  -  -  -  •  -  -196 

Neck  of  Mutton  -  196 

Fore  Quarter  of  Lamb        •-        -        -        -        -  197 

Sirloin  of  Beef  -        •        •        -        -        -        -197 

Ribs  of  Beef -        -        -198 

Round  of  Beef  --•«•-.,  198 
Aitch-bone  of  Beef  -..-.«.  198 
Rump  or  Buttock  of  Beef  «  •  •  •  •  -199 
Tongue  •-•-••.._  199 

Calfs  Head 199 

Loin  of  Veal       -  200 


CONTENTS. 


vii 


Fillet  of  Veal 

Breast  of  Veal     ........  2oo 

Knuckle  of  Veal          --.....  201 

Shoulder  and  Neck  of  Veal          .....  201 

Leg  or  Hand  of  Pork 201 

Spare-rib  of  Pork 2O2 

H'1™. -202 

Sucking  Pig 203 

POULTRY  AND  GAME. 

Goose 20- 

204 

2(4 

Ill 

Wild  Duck 206 

Peasant 206 

Arouse .  2Qg 

Partridge -  207 

Woodcock  or  Snipe .  2Q~ 

Pigeons -  20? 

Small  Birds        .... 

"  ^UO 

208 

209 


TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS. 


Amatory     - 

Bacchanalian 

Comic 

Conservative 

Gastronomic 

English 

Irish  - 

Scotch 

Liberal 

Literary 

Loyal 

Masonic 


2IO 
212 
2I3 
2I4 
216 

216 
216 

217 

217 

220 
22O 
223 


viii  CONTEXTS. 

......  'ACS 

Military      •        r        ......         .  22s 

Naval        -        >>......  226 

Religious •        •        .  228 

Sentimental        ........  228 

Sporting 230 

Miscellaneous     -        ..        .-.        .        .        -231 

'        '        '  234 


Jtuutlebge's  (Etiquette  for  %;tOte$: 


I.— INTRODUCTIONS. 

To  introduce  persons  who  are  mutually  unknown  is  to  under* 
take  a  serious  responsibility,  and  to  certify  to  each  the  re- 
spectability of  the  other.  Never  undertake  this  responsibility 
without  in  the  first  place  asking  yourself  whether  the  persons 
arc  likely  to  be  agreeable  to  each  other ;  nor,  in  the  second 
place,  without  ascertaining  whether  it  will  be  acceptable  to 
bpth  parties  to  become  acquainted. 

Always  introduce  the  gentleman  to  the  lady — never  the 
lady  to  the  gentleman.  The  chivalry  of  etiquette  assumes 
that  the  lady  is  invariably  the  superior  in  right  of  her  sex, 
and  that  the  gentleman  is  honoured  in  the  introduction.  This 
rule  is  to  be  observed  even  when  the  social  rank  of  the  gen- 
tleman  is  higher  than  that  of  the  lady. 

Where  the  sexes  are  the  same,  always  present  th2  inferior 
to  the  superior. 

Never  present  a  gentleman  to  a  lady  without  first  asking 
her  permission  to  do  so. 

When  you  are  introduced  to  a  gentleman,  never  offer  your 
hand.  When  introduced,  persons  limit  their  recognition  of 
each  other  to  a  bow.  On  the  Continent,  ladies  never  shake 
hands  with  gentlemen  unless  under  circumstances  of  great 
intimacy. 

Never  introduce  morning  visitors  who  happen  to  encounter 
each  other  in  your  drawing-room,  unless  they  are  persons 
whom  you  have  already  obtained  permission  to  make  known 
to  each  other.  Visitors  thus  casually  meeting  in  the  house  of 
a  friend  should  converse  with  ease  and  freedom,  as  if  they 
were  acquainted.  That  they  are  both  friends  of  the  hostess 
is  a  sufficient  guarantee  of  their  respectabilily.  To  be  silent 

I 


*  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

and  stiff  on  such  an  occasion  would  show  much  ignorance  and 
ill-breeding. 

Persons  who  have  met  at  the  house  of  a  mutual  friend, 
without  being  introduced,  should  not  bow  if  they  afterwards 
meet  elsewhere.  A  bow  implies  acquaintance  ;  and  persons 
who  have  not  been  introduced  are  not  acquainted. 

If  you  are  walking  with  one  friend,  and  presently  meet 
with,  or  are  joined  by,  a  third,  do  not  commit  the  too  fre- 
quent error  of  introducing  them  to  each  other.  You  have 
even  less  right  to  do  so  than  if  they  encountered  each  other 
at  your  house  during  a  morning  call. 

There  are  some  exceptions  to  the  etiquette  of  introductions. 
At  a  ball,  or  evening  party  where  there  is  dancing,  the  mis- 
tress of  the  house  may  introduce  any  gentleman  to  any  lady 
without  first  asking  the  lady's  permission.  But  she  should 
first  ascertain  whether  the  lady  is  willing  to  dance  ;  and  this 
out  of  consideration  for  the  gentleman,  who  may  otherwise 
be  refused.  No  man  likes  to  be  refused  the  hand  of  a  lady, 
though  it  be  only  for  a  quadrille. 

A  sister  may  present  her  brother,  or  a  mother  her  son, 
without  any  kind  of  preliminary  ;  but  only  when  there  is  no 
inferiority  on  the  part  of  her  own  family  to  that  of  the  ac- 
quaintance. 

Friends  may  introduce  friends  at  the  house  ot  a  mutual 
acquaintance ;  but,  as  a  rule,  it  is  better  to  be  introduced  by 
the  mistress  of  the  house.  Such  an  introduction  carries  more 
authority  with  it. 

Introductions  at  evening  parties  are  now  almost  wholly 
dispensed  with.  Persons  who  meet  at  a  friend's  house  are 
ostensibly  upon  an  equality,  and  pay  a  bad  compliment  to 
the  host  by  appearing  suspicious  and  formal.  Some  old- 
fashioned  country  hosts  yet  persevere  in  introducing  each  new 
comer  to  all  the  assembled  guests.  It  is  a  custom  that  cannot 
be  too  soon  abolished,  and  one  that  places  the  last  unfor- 
tunate visitor  in  a  singularly  awkward  position.  All  that 
she  can  do  is  to  make  a  semicircular  courtesy,  like  a  concert 
tinger  before  an  audience,  and  bear  the  general  gaze  with 
as  much  composure  as  possible. 

If,  when  you  enter  a  drawing-room,  your  name  has  been 
wrongly  announced,  or  has  passed  unheard  in  the  buzz  of  con- 
versation, make  your  way  at  once  to  the  mistress  of  the  house, 
if  you  are  a  stranger,  and  introduce  yourself  by  name.  This 
should  be  done  with  the  greatest  simplicity,  and  your  rank 
made  as  little  of  as  possible. 

An  introduction  given  at  a  ball  for  the  mere  purpose  of 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  $ 

conducting  a  lady  through  a  dance  does  not  give  the  gentle- 
man any  right  to  bow  to  her  on  a  future  occasion.  If  he 
commits  this  error,  she  may  remember  that  she  is  not  bound 
to  see,  or  return,  his  salutation. 


II.— LETTERS  OF  INTRODUCTION. 

Do  not  lightly  give  or  promise  letters  of  introduction.  Al- 
ways remember  that  when  you  give  a  letter  of  introduction 
you  lay  yourself  under  an  obligation  to  the  friend  to  whom  it 
is  addressed.  If  she  lives  in  a  great  city,  such  as  Paris  or 
London,  you  in  a  measure,  compel  her  to  undergo  the  penalty 
of  escorting  the  stranger  to  some  of  those  places  of  public 
entertainment  in  which  the  capita!  abounds.  If  your  friend 
be  a  married  lady,  and  the  mistress  of  a  house,  you  put  her 
to  the  expense  of  inviting  the  stranger  to  her  table.  We  can- 
not be  too  cautious  how  we  tax  the  time  and  purse  of  a  friend, 
or  weigh  too  seriously  the  question  of  mutual  advantage  in 
the  introduction.  Always  ask  yourself  whether  the  person 
introduced  will  be  an  acceptable  acquaintance  to  the  one  to 
whom  you  present  her ;  and  whether  the  pleasure  of  knowing 
her  will  compensate  for  the  time  or  money  which  it  costs  to 
entertain  her.  If  the  stranger  is  in  any  way  unsuitable  in 
habits  or  temperament,  you  inflict  an  annoyance  on  your 
friend  instead  of  a  pleasure.  In  questions  of  introduction 
never  oblige  one  friend  to  the  discomfort  of  another. 

Those  to  whom  letters  of  introduction  have  been  given 
should  send  them  to  the  person  to  whom  they  are  addressed, 
and  enclose  a  card.  Never  deliver  a  letter  of  introduction  in 
person.  It  places  you  in  the  most  undignified  position  ima- 
ginable, and  compels  you  to  wait  while  it  is  being  read,  like 
a  servant  who  has  been  told  to  wait  for  an  answer.  There  is 
also  another  reason  why  you  should  not  be  yourself  the  bearer 
of  your  introduction ;  i.e.,  you  compel  the  other  person  to 
receive  you,  whether  she  chooses  or  not.  It  may  be  that  she 
is  sufficiently  ill-bred  to  take  no  notice  of  the  letter  when  sent, 
and  in  such  case,  if  you  presented  yourself  with  it,  she  would 
most  probably  receive  you  with  rudeness.  It  is,  at  all  events, 
more  polite  on  your  part  to  give  her  the  option,  and,  perhaps, 
more  pleasant.  If  the  receiver  of  the  letter  be  a  really  well- 
bred  person,  she  will  call  upon  you  or  leave  her  card  the  next 
day,  and  you  should  return  her  attentions  within  the  week. 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  a  stranger  sends  you  a  letter  of  intro- 


4  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

duction  and  her  card,  you  are  bound  by  the  laws  of  politeness 
and  hospitality,  not  only  to  call  upon  her  the  next  day,  but 
to  follow  up  that  attention  with  others.  If  you  are  in  a  posi- 
tion to  do  so,  the  most  correct  proceeding  is  to  invite  her  to 
dine  with  you.  Should  this  not  be  within  your  power,  you 
can  probably  escort  her  to  some  of  the  exhibitions,  bazaars, 
or  concerts  of  the  season  ;  any  of  which  would  be  interesting 
to  a  foreigner  or  provincial  visitor.  In  short,  etiquette  de- 
mands that  you  shall  exert  yourself  to  show  kindness  to  the 
stranger,  if  only  out  of  compliment  to  the  friend  who  intro- 
duced her  to  you. 

If  you  invite  her  to  dine  with  you,  it  is  a  better  compliment 
to  ask  some  others  to  meet  her  than  to  dine  with  her  tete-a- 
tete.  You  are  thereby  giving  her  an  opportunity  of  making 
other  acquaintances,  and  are  assisting  your  friend  in  still  far- 
ther promoting  the  purpose  for  which  she  gave  her  the  intro- 
duction to  yourself. 

Be  careful  at  the  same  time  only  to  ask  such  persons  as  she 
will  feel  are  at  least  her  own  social  equals. 

A  letter  of  introduction  should  be  given  unsealed,  not  alone 
because  your  friend  may  wish  to  know  what  you  have  said  of 
her,  but  also  as  a  guarantee  of  your  own  good  faith.  As  you 
should  never  give  such  a  letter  unless  you  can  speak  highly  of 
the  bearer,  this  rule  of  etiquette  is  easy  to  observe.  By  re- 
questing your  friend  to  fasten  the  envelope  before  forwarding 
the  letter  to  its  destination,  you  tacitly  give  her  permission  to 
inspect  its  contents. 

Let  your  note-paper  be  of  the  best  quality  and  the  proper 
size.  Albert  or  Queen's  size  is  the  best  for  these  purposes. 

It  has  been  well  said  that  "attention  to  the  punctilios  of 
politeness  is  a  proof  at  once  of  self-respect,  and  of  respect  for 
your  friend."  Though  irksome  at  first,  these  trifles  soon 
cease  to  be  matters  for  memory,  and  become  things  of  mere 
habit.  To  the  thoroughly  well-bred  they  are  a  second  nature. 
Let  no  one  neglect  them  who  is  desirous  of  pleasing  in  society , 
and,  above  all,  let  no  one  deem  them  unworthy  of  attention. 
They  are  precisely  the  trifles  which  do  most  to  make  social 
intercourse  agreeable,  and  a  knowledge  of  which  distinguishes 
the  gentlewoman  from  the  pat-venue. 


III. — VISITING. — MORNING  CALLS.— CARDS. 

A  morning  visit  should  be  paid  between  the  hours  of  two 
and  four  p.m.,  in  winter,  and  two  and  five  in  summer.     By 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  $ 

observing  this  rule  you  avoid  intruding  before  the  luncheon  is 
removed,  and  leave  in  sufficient  time  to  allow  the  lady  of  the 
house  an  hour  or  two  of  leisure  for  her  dinner  toilette. 

Be  careful  always  to  avoid  luncheon  hours  when  you'-pay 
morning  visits.  Some  ladies  dine  with  their  children  at  half- 
past  one,  and  are  consequently  unprepared  for  the  early  recep- 
tion of  visitors.  When  you  have  once  ascertained  this  to  be 
the  case,  be  careful  never  again  to  intrude  at  the  same  hour. 

A  good  memory  for  these  trifles  is  one  of  the  hall-marks  of 
good  breeding. 

Visits  of  ceremony  should  be  short.  If  even  the  conversa- 
tion should  have  become  animated,  beware  of  letting  your  call 
exceed  half-an-hour's  length.  It  is  always  better  to  let  your 
friends  regret  than  desire  your  withdrawal. 

On  returning  visits  of  ceremony  you  may,  without  impolite- 
ness, leave  your  card  at  the  door  without  going  in.  •  Do  not 
fail,  however,  to  inquire  if  the  family  be  well. 

Should  there  be  daughters  or  sisters  residing  with  the  lady 
upon  whom  you  call,  you  may  turn  down  a  corner  of  your 
card,  to  signify  that  the  visit  is  paid  to  all.  It  is  in  better 
taste,  however,  to  leave  cards  for  each. 

Unless  when  returning  thanks  for  "kind  inquiries,"  or  an- 
nouncing your  arrival  in,  or  departure  from,  town,  it  is  not 
considered  respectful  to  send  round  cards  by  a  servant. 

Leave-taking  cards  have  P.  P.C.  (pour prendre  conge)  written 
in  the  corner.  Some  use  P.  D.A.  (pour  dire  adieu). 

It  is  not  the  fashion  on  the  Continent  for  unmarried  ladies 
to  affix  any  equivalent  to  the  English  "  Miss"  to  their  visiting 
cards.  Emilie  Dubois,  or  Kdtclien  Clauss,  is  thought  more 
simple  and  elegant  than  if  preceded  by  Mademoiselle  or  fraii- 
lein.  Some  English  girls  have  of  late  adopted  this  good 
custom,  and  it  would  be  well  if  it  became  general. 

Autographic  facsimiles  for  visiting  cards  are  affectations  in 
any  persons  but  those  who  are  personally  remarkable  for  talent, 
and  whose  autographs,  or  facsimiles  of  them,  would  be  prized 
as  curiosities.  A  card  bearing  the  autographic  signature  of 
Agnes  Strickland  or  Mary  Somerville,  though  only  a  litho- 
graphic facsimile,  would  have  a  certain  interest ;  whereas  the 
signature  of  Jane  Smith  would  be  not  only  valueless,  but 
would  make  the  owner  ridiculous. 

Visits  of  condolence  are  paid  within  the  week  after  the 
event  which  occasions  them.     Personal  visits  of  this  kind  are 
made  by  relations  and  very  intimate  friends  only.     Acquain- 
tances should  leave  cards  with  narrow  mourning  borders. 
On  the  first  occasion  when  you  are  received  by  the  family 


6  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

after  the  death  of  one  of  its  members,  it  is  etiquette  to  weal 
slight  mourning. 

Umbrellas  should  invariably  be  left  in  the  hall. 

Never  take  favourite  dogs  into  a  drawing-room  when  you 
make  a  morning  call.  Their  feet  may  be  dusty,  or  they  may 
bark  at  the  sight  of  strangers,  or,  being  of  too  friendly  a  dis- 
position, may  take  the  liberty  of  lying  on  a  lady's  gown,  or 
jumping  on  the  sofas  and  easy  chairs.  Where  your  friend 
has  a  favourite  cat  already  established  before  the  fire,  a  battle 
may  ensue,  and  one  or  other  of  the  pets  be  seriously  hurt. 
Besides,  many  persons  have  a  constitutional  antipathy  to  dogs, 
and  others  never  allow  their  own  to  be  seen  in  the  sitting- 
rooms.  For  all  or  any  of  these  reasons,  a  visitor  has  no  right 
to  inflict  upon  her  friend  the  society  of  her  dog  as  well  as  of 
herself.  Neither  is  it  well  for  a  mother  to  take  young  chil- 
dren with  her  when  she  pays  morning  visits  ;  their  presence, 
unless  they  are  unusually  well  trained,  can  only  be  productive 
of  anxiety  to  both  yourself  and  your  hostess.  She,  while 
striving  to  amuse  them,  or  to  appear  interested  in  them,  is 
secretly  anxious  for  the  fate  of  her  album,  or  the  ornaments 
on  her  etagtre  ;  while  the  mother  is  trembling  lest  her  children 
should  say  or  do  something  objectionable. 

If  other  visitors  are  announced,  and  you  have  already  re- 
mained as  long  as  courtesy  requires,  wait  till  they  are  seated, 
and  then  rise  from  your  chair,  take  leave  of  your  hostess,  and 
bow  politely  to  the  newly  arrived  guests.  You  will,  perhaps, 
be  urged  to  remain,  but,  having  once  risen,  it  is  best  to  go. 
There  is  always  a  certain  air  of  gaucherie  in  resuming  your 
seat  and  repeating  the  ceremony  of  leave-taking. 

If  you  have  occasion  to  look  at  your  watch  during  a  call, 
ask  permission  to  do  so,  and  apologise  for  it  on  the  plea  of 
other  appointments. 

In  receiving  morning  visitors,  it  is  not  necessary  that  the 
lady  should  lay  aside  the  employment  in  which  she  may  be 
engaged,  particularly  if  it  consists  of  light  or  ornamental 
needle-work.  Politeness,  however,  requires  that  music,  draw- 
ing, or  any  occupation  which  would  completely  engross  the 
attention,  be  at  once  abandoned. 

You  need  not  advance  to  receive  visitors  when  announced,, 
unless  they  are  persons  to  whom  you  are  desirous  of  testifying 
particular  attention.  It  is  sufficient  if  a  lady  rises  to  receive 
her  visitors,  moves  forward  a  single  step  to  shake  hands  with 
them,  and  remains  standing  till  they  are  seated. 

When  your  visitors  rise  to  take  leave  you  should  rise  also, 
%nd  remain  standing  till  they  have  quite  left  the  room.  Do 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  f 

not  accompany  them  to  the  door,  but  be  careful  to  ring  in 
good  time,  that  the  servant  may  be  ready  in  the  hall  to  let 
them  out. 

A  lady  should  dress  well,  but  not  too  richly,  when  she  pays 
a  morning  visit.  If  she  has  a  carriage  at  command,  she  may 
dress  more  elegantly  than  if  she  were  on  foot.  The  question 
of  morning  and  afternoon  dress  will  be  found  fully  treated  in 
Section  VII. 


IV. — CONVERSATION. 

There  is  no  conversation  so  graceful,  so  varied,  so  sparldlng, 
as  that  of  an  intellectual  and  cultivated  woman.  Excellence 
in  this  particular  is,  indeed,  one  of  the  attributes  of  the  sex, 
and  should  be  cultivated  by  every  gentlewoman  who  aspires 
to  please  in  general  society. 

In  order  to  talk  well,  three  conditions  are  indisputable, 
namely — tact,  a  good  memory,  and  a  fair  education. 

Remember  that  people  take  more  interest  in  their  own 
affairs  than  in  anything  else  which  you  can  name.  If  you 
wish  your  conversation  to  be  thoroughly  agreeable,  lead  a 
mother  to  talk  of  her  children,  a  young  lady  of  her  last  ball, 
an  author  of  his  forthcoming  book,  or  an  artist  of  his  exhibi- 
tion picture.  Having  furnished  the  topic,  you  need  only 
listen  ;  and  you  are  sure  to  be  thought  not  only  agreeable, 
but  thoroughly  sensible  and  well-informed. 

Be  careful,  however,  on  the  other  hand,  not  always  to  make 
a  point  of  talking  to  persons  upon  general  matters  relating  to 
their  professions.  To  show  an  interest  in  their  immediate 
concerns  is  flattering ;  but  to  converse  with  them  too  much 
about  their  own  arts  looks  as  if  you  thought  them  ignorant  of 
other  topics. 

Remember  in  conversation  that  a  voice  "  gentle  and  low" 
is,  above  all  other  extraneous  acquirements,  "an  excellent 
thing  in  woman."  There  is  a  certain  distinct  but  subdued 
tone  of  voice  which  is  peculiar  to  only  well-bred  persons.  A 
loud  voice  is  both  disagreeable  and  vulgar.  It  is  better  to 
err  by  the  use  of  too  low  than  too  loud  a  tone. 

Remember  that  all  "slang"  is  vulgar.  It  has  become  of 
late  unfortunately  prevalent,  and  we  know  many  ladies  who 
pride  themselves  on  the  saucy  cfnque  with  which  they  adopt 
certain  Americanisms,  and  other  cant  phrases  of  the  day. 
Such  habits  cannot  be  too  severely  reprehended.  They  lower 
the  tone  of  society  and  the  standard  of  thought.  It  is  a  great 


8  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

mistake  to  suppose  that  slang  is  in  any  way  a  substitute  for 
wit. 

The  use  of  proverbs  is  equally  vulgar  in  conversation  ;  and 
puns,  unless  they  rise  to  the  rank  of  witticisms,  are  to  be 
scrupulously  avoided.  A  lady-punster  is  a  most  unpleasing 
phenomenon,  and  we  would  advise  no  young  woman,  how- 
ever witty  she  may  be,  to  cultivate  this  kind  of  verbal  talent. 

Long  arguments  in  general  company,  however  entertaining 
to  the  disputants,  are  tiresome  to  the  last  degree  to  all  others. 
You  should  always  endeavour  to  prevent  the  conversation 
from  dwelling  too  long  upon  one  topic. 

vReligion  is  a  topic  which  should  never  be  introduced  in 
society.  It  is  the  one  subject  on  which  persons  are  most 
likely  to  differ,  and  least  able  to  preserve  temper. 

Never  interrupt  a  person  who  is  speaking.  It  has  been 
aptly  said  that  "  if  you  interrupt  a  speaker  in  the  middle  of 
his  sentence,  you  act  almost  as  rudely  as  if,  when  walking 
with  a  companion,  you  were  to  thrust  yourself  before  him, 
and  stop  his  progress." 

"  To  listen  well  is  almost  as  great  an  art  as  to  talk  well.  It 
is  not  enough  only  to  listen.  You  must  endeavour  to  seem 
interested  in  the  conversation  of  others. 

It  is  considered  extremely  ill-bred  when  two  persons  whis- 
per in  society,  or  converse  in  a  language  with  which  all  present 
are  not  familiar.  If  you  have  private  matters  to  discuss,  you 
should  appoint  a  proper  time  and  place  to  do  so,  without 
paying  others  the  ill  compliment  of  excluding  them  from  your 
conversation. 

If  a  foreigner  be  one  01*  the  guests  at  a  small  party,  and 
does  not  understand  English  sufficiently  to  follow  what  is  said, 
good  breeding  demands  that  the  conversation  shall  be  carried 
on  in  his  own  language.  If  at  a  dinner-party,  the  same  rule 
applies  to  those  at  his  end  of  the  table. 

If  upon  the  entrance  of  a  visitor  you  carry  on  the  thread  of 
a  previous  conversation,  you  should  briefly  recapitulate  to 
him  what  has  been  said  before  he  arrived. 

Do  not  be  always  witty,  even  though  you  should  be  so  hap- 
pily gifted  as  to  need  the  caution.  To  outshine  others  on 
every  occasion  is  the  surest  road  to  unpopularity. 

Always  look,  but  never  stare,  at  those  with  whom  you 
converse. 

In  order  to  meet  the  general  needs  of  conversation  in 
society,  it  is  necessary  that  a  gentlewoman  should  be  ac- 
quainted with  the  current  news  and  historical  events  of  at 
least  the  last  few  yeais. 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  9 

Never  talk  upon  subjects  of  which  you  know  nothing,  un. 
less  it  be  for  the  purpose  of  acquiring  information.  Many 
young  ladies  imagine  that  because  they  play  a  little,  sing  a 
little,  draw  a  little,  and  frequent  exhibitions  and  operas,  they 
are  qualified  judges  of  art.  No  mistake  is  more  egregious  or 
universal. 

Those  who  introduce  anecdotes  into  their  conversation  are 
warned  that  these  should  invariably  be  "short,  witty,  elo- 
quent, new,  ami  not  far-fetched." 

Scandal  is  the  least  excusable  of  all  conversational  vulgari- 
ties. 

In  conversing  with  a  woman  of  rank,  do  not  too  frequently 
give  her  her  title.  Only  a  lady's-maid  interlards  every  sen- 
tence with  "My  Lady,"  or  "My  Lord."  It  is,  however, 
well  to  show  that  you  remember  the  station  of  your  interlo- 
cutor by  now  and  then  introducing  some  such  phrase  as — "  I 
think  I  have  already  mentioned  to  your  Grace  " — or,  "  I 
believe,  Madam,  you  were  observing — " 

A  peer  or  baron  may  occasionally,  as  in  an  address,  be 
styled  "  My  Lord,"  but  a  lady  of  equal  rank  must  only  be 
addressed  as  "Madam."  In  general,  however,  a  nobleman 
or  lady  of  high  rank  should  only  be  addressed  as  you  would 
address  any  other  gentleman  or  lady.  The  Prince  of  Wales 
himself  is  only  styled  "  Sir"  in  conversation,  and  the  Queen 
"Madam." 


V. — NOTES  OF  INVITATION,  &c. 

Notes  of  invitation  and  acceptance  are  written  in  the  third 
person  and  the  simplest  style.  The  old-fashioned  preliminary 
of  "presenting  compliments"  is  discontinued  by  the  most 
elegant  letter  writers. 

All  notes  of  invitation  are  now  issued  in  the  name  of  the 
mistress  of  the  house  only,  as  follows  : — 

"Mrs.  Norman  requests  the  honour  of  Sir  George  and  Lady  Thur- 
low's  company  at  an  evening  party,  on  Monday,  141)1  of  June." 

Others  prefer  the  subjoined  form,  which  is  purchaseable 
ready  printed  upon  either  cards  or  note  paper,  with  blanks 
for  names  or  dates  : — 

"Mrs.  Norman, 

"At  home, 
"Monday  evening,  June  the  i4th  instant." 

An  "At  home"  is,  however,  considered  somewhat  less 


io  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES 

stately  than  an  evening  party,  and  partakes  more  of  the  cha- 
racter of  a  conversazione. 

The  reply  to  a  note  of  invitation  should  be  couched  as 
follows . — 

"  Mr.  Berkeley  has  much  pleasure  in  accepting  Mrs.  Norman's  polit* 
invitation  for  Monday  evening,  June  the  i4th  instant" 

Never  "avail"  yourself  of  an  invitation.  Above  all, 
never  speak  or  write  of  an  invitation  as  "an  invite."  It  is 
neither  good  breeding  nor  good  English. 

Notes  of  invitation  and  reply  should  be  written  on  small 
paper  of  the  best  quality,  and  enclosed  in  envelopes  to  corre- 
spond. 

Note  paper  of  the  most  dainty  and  fastidious  kind  may  be 
used  by  a  lady  with  propriety  and  elegance,  but  only  when 
she  is  %vriting  to  her  friends  and  equals.  Business  letters  or 
letters  to  her  tradespeople  should  be  written  on  plain  paper, 
and  enclosed  either  in  an  adhesive  envelope,  or  sealed  with 
red  wax. 

Never  omit  the  address  and  date  from  any  letter,  whether 
of  business  or  friendship. 

Letters  in  the  first  person  addressed  to  strangers  should 
begin  with  "Sir,"  or  "Madam,"  and  end  with  "I  have 
the  honour  to  be  your  very  obedient  servant,"  Some  object 
to  this  form  of  words  from  a  mistaken  sense  of  pride  ;  but  it 
is  merely  a  form,  and,  rightly  apprehended,  evinces  a  "proud 
humility,"  which  implies  more  condescension  than  a  less 
formal  phrase. 

At  the  end  of  your  letter,  at  some  little  distance  below 
your  signature,  and  in  the  left  corner  of  your  paper,  write  the 
name  of  the  person  to  whom  your  letter  is  addressed  ;  as 
"Lady  Dalhousie,"  or  "Edward  Munroe,  Esquire." 

It  is  more  polite  to  write  Esquire  at  full  length  than  to 
curtail  it  to  Esq. 

In  writing  to  perso.  "s  much  your  superior  or  inferior,  use 
as  few  words  as  possible.  In  the  former  case,  to  take  up 
much  of  a  great  man's  time  is  to  take  a  liberty ;  in  the  latter, 
to  be  diffuse  is  to  be  too  familiar.  It  is  only  in  familiar  cor- 
respondence that  long  letters  are  permissible. 

In  writing  to  a  tradesman,  begin  your  letter  by  addressing 
him  by  name,  as — 

"Mr.  Jones, — Sir." 

A  letter  thus  begun  may,  with  propriety,  be  ended  with — 

"Sir,  yours  truly." 

Letters  to  persons  whom  you  meet  frequently  in  society,. 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  II 

without  having  arrived  at  intimacy,  may  commence  'with 
"Dear  Madam,"  and  end  with  "I  am,  dear  Madam,  yours 
very  truly." 

Letters  commencing  "My  dear  Madam,"  addressed  to 
persons  whom  you  appreciate,  and  with  whom  you  are  on 
friendly  terms,  may  end  with  "  I  am,  my  dear  Madam,  yours 
very  faithfully,"  or  "yours  very  sincerely." 

To  be  prompt  in  replying  to  a  letter  is  to  be  polite. 

Lady  correspondents  are  too  apt  to  over-emphasize  in  their 
letter-writing,  and  in  general  evince  a  sad  disregard  of  the 
laws  of  punctuation.  We  would  respectfully  suggest  that  a 
comma  is  not  designed  to  answer  every  purpose,  and  that  the 
underlining  of  every  second  or  third  word  adds  nothing  to 
the  eloquence  or  clearness  of  a  letter,  however  certain  it  may 
be  to  provoke  an  unflattering  smile  upon  the  lips  of  the 
reader. 

All  letters  must  be  prepaid. 


VI. — THE  PROMENADE. 

In  England,  a  lady  may  accept  the  arm  of  a  gentleman 
with  whom  she  is  walking,  even  though  he  be  only  an  ac- 
quaintance. This  is  not  the  case  either  in  America  or  on  the 
Continent.  There  a  lady  can  take  the  arm  of  no  gentleman 
who  is  not  either  her  husband,  lover,  or  near  relative. 

If  a  lady  has  been  making  purchases  during  her  walk,  she 
may  permit  the  gentleman  who  accompanies  her  to  carry  any 
small  parcel  that  she  may  have  in  her  own  hand  ;  but  she 
should  not  burthen  him  with  more  than  one  under  any  cir- 
cumstances whatever. 

Two  ladies  may  without  any  impropriety  take  each  one  arm 
of  a  single  cavalier  ;  but  one  lady  cannot,  with  either  grace  or 
the  sanction  of  custom  take  the  arms  of  two  gentlemen  at  the 
same  time. 

When  a  lady  is  walking  with  a  gentleman  in  a  park,  or 
public  garden,  or  through  the  rooms  of  an  exhibition,  and 
becomes  fatigued,  it  is  the  gentleman's  duty  to  find  her  a 
seat.  If,  however,  as  is  very  frequently  the  case,  he  is  him- 
self obliged  to  remain  standing,  the  lady  should  make  a  point 
of  rising  as  soon  as  she  is  sufficiently  rested,  and  not  abuse 
either  the  patience  or  politeness  of  her  companion. 

It  is  the  place  of  the  lady  to  bow  first,  if  she  meets  a 
gentleman  of  her  acquaintance. 


12  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

When  you  meet  friends  or  acquaintances  in  the  streets,  the 
exhibitions,  or  any  public  places,  be  careful  not  to  pronounce 
their  names  so  loudly  as  to  attract  the  attention  of  bystanders. 
Never  call  across  the  street,  or  attempt  to  carry  on  a  dialogue 
in  a  public  vehicle,  unless  your  interlocutor  occupies  the  seat 
beside  vour  own. 


VII.  — DRESS. 

To  dress  well  requires  something  more  than  a  full  purse 
and  a  pretty  figure.  It  needs  taste,  good  sense,  and  refine- 
ment. Dress  may  almost  be  classed  as  one  of  the  fine  arts. 
It  is  certainly  one  of  those  arts,  the  cultivation  of  which  is 
indispensable  to  any  person  moving  in  the  upper  or  middle 
classes  of  society.  Very  clever  women  are  too  frequently  in- 
different to  the  graces  of  the  toilette  ;  and  women  who  wish 
to  be  thought  clever  affect  indifference.  In  the  one  case  it  is 
an  error,  and  in  the  other  a  folly.  It  is  not  enough  that  a 
gentlewoman  should  be  clever,  or  well-educated,  or  well-born. 
To  take  her  due  place  in  society,  she  must  be  acquainted 
with  all  that  this  little  book  proposes  to  teach.  She  must, 
above  all  else,  know  how  to  enter  a  room,  how  to  perform  a 
graceful  salutation,  and  how  to  dress.  Of  these  three  im- 
portant qualifications,  the  most  important,  because  the  most 
observed,  is  the  latter. 

Let  your  style  of  dress  always  be  appropriate  to  the  hour 
of  the  day.  To  dress  too  finely  in  the  morning,  or  to  be  seen 
in  a  morning  dress  in  the  evening,  is  equally  vulgar  and  out 
of  place. 

Light  and  inexpensive  materials  are  fittest  for  morning 
wear  ;  dark  silk  dresses  for  the  promenade  or  carriage  ;  and 
low  dresses  of  rich  or  transparent  stuffs  for  the  dinner  and 
ball.  A  young  lady  cannot  dress  with  too  much  simplicity 
in  the  early  part  of  the  day.  A  morning  dress  of  some  simple 
material,  and  delicate  whole  colour,  with  collar  and  cuffs  of 
spotless  linen,  is,  perhaps,  the  most  becoming  and  elegant  of 
morning  toilettes. 

Never  dress  very  richly  or  showily  in  the  street.  It  at- 
tracts attention  of  no  enviable  kind,  and  is  looked  upon  as  a 
want  of  good  breeding.  In  the  carriage  a  lady  may  dress  as 
elegantly  as  she  pleases.  With  respect  to  ball-room  toilette, 
its  fashions  are  so  variable,  that  statements  which  are  true  of 
it  to-day,  may  be  false  a  month  hence.  Respecting  no  insti- 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  fj 

tulion  of  modern  society  is  it  so  difficult  to  pronounce  half-a- 
dozen  permanent  rules. 

We  may,  perhaps,  be  permitted  to  suggest  the  following 
leading  principles  ;  but  we  do  so  with  diffidence.  Rich 
colours  harmonize  with  rich  brunette  complexions  and  dark 
hair.  Delicate  colours  are  the  most  suitable  for  delicate  and 
fragile  styles  of  beauty.  Very  young  ladies  are  never  so 
suitably  attired  as  in  white.  Ladies  who  dance  should  wear 
dresses  of  light  and  diaphanous  materials,  such  as  tulle,  gauze, 
crape,  net,  &c.,  over  coloured  silk  slips.  Silk  dresses  are 
not  suitable  for  dancing.  A  married  lady  who  dances  only  a 
few  quadrilles  may  wear  a  decollete  silk  dress  with  propriety. 

Very  stout  persons  should  never  wear  white.  It  has  the 
effect  of  adding  to  the  bulk  of  the  figure. 

Black  and  scarlet,  or  black  and  violet,  are  worn  in  mourn- 
ing. 

A  lady  in  deep  mourning  should  not  dance  at  all. 

However  fashionable  it  may  be  to  wear  very  long  dresses, 
those  ladies  who  go  to  a  ball  with  the  intention  of  dancing 
and  enjoying  the  dance,  should  cause  their  dresses  to  be 
made  short  enough  to  clear  the  ground.  We  would  ask 
them  whether  it  is  not  better  to  accept  this  slight  deviation 
from  an  absurd  fashion,  than  to  appear  for  three  parts  of  the 
evening  in  a  torn  and  pinned-up  skirt? 

Well-made  shoes,  whatever  their  colour  or  material,  and 
faultless  gloves,  are  indispensable  to  the  effect  of  a  ball-room 
toilette. 

Much  jewellery  is  out  of  place  in  a  ball-room.  Beautiful 
flowers,  whether  natural  or  artificial,  are  the  loveliest  orna- 
ments that  a  lady  can  wear  on  these  occasions. 

At  small  dinner  parties,  low  dresses  are  not  so  indispens- 
able as  they  were  held  to  be  some  years  since.  High  dresses 
of  transparent  materials,  and  low  bodices  with  capes  of  black 
lace,  are  considered  sufficiently  full  dress  on  these  occasions. 
At  large  dinners  only  the  fullest  dress  is  appropriate. 

Very  young  ladies  should  wear  but  little  jewellery.  Pearls 
are  deemed  most  appropriate  for  the  young  and  unmarried. 

Let  your  jewellery  be  always  the  best  of  its  kind.  No- 
thing is  so  vulgar,  either  in  youth  or  age,  as  the  use  of  false 
ornaments. 

There  is  as  much  propriety  to  be  observed  in  the  wearing 
of  jewellery  as  in  the  wearing  of  dresses.  Diamonds,  pearls, 
rubies,  and  all  transparent  precious  stones  belong  to  evening 
dress,  and  should  on  no  account  be  worn  before  dinner.  In 
the  morning  let  your  rings  be  of  the  more  simple  and  ma*- 


14  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

sivc  kind  ;  wear  no  bracelets  ;  and  limit  your  jewellery  to  a 
good  brooch,  gold  chain,  and  watch.  Your  diamonds  and 
pearls  would  be  as  much  out  of  place  during  the  morning  as 
a  low  dress,  or  a  wreath. 

It  is  well  to  remember  in  the  choice  of  jewellery  that  mere 
costliness  is  not  always  the  test  of  value ;  and  that  an  exqui- 
site work  of  art,  such  as  a  fine  cameo,  or  a  natural  rarity, 
such  as  a  black  pearl,  is  a  more  distingue  possession  than  a 
large  brilliant  which  any  rich  and  tasteless  vulgarian  can  buy 
as  easily  as  yourself.  Of  all  precious  stones,  the  opal  is  one 
of  the  most  lovely  and  least  commonplace.  No  vulgar 
woman  purchases  an  opal.  She  invariably  prefers  the  more 
showy  ruby,  emerald,  or  sapphire. 

A  true  gentlewoman  is  always  faultlessly  neat.  No  rich- 
ness of  toilette  in  the  afternoon,  no  diamonds  in  the  evening, 
can  atone  for  unbrushed  hair,  a  soiled  collar,  or  untidy  slippers 
at  breakfast. 

Never  be  seen  in  the  street  without  gloves  ;  and  never  le 
your  gloves  be  of  any  material  that  is  not  kid  or  calf.  Worstec 
or  cotton  gloves  are  unutterably  vulgar.  Your  gloves  shoulc 
fit  to  the  last  degree  of  perfection. 

In  these  days  of  public  baths  and  universal  progress,  we 
trust  that  it  is  unnecessary  to  do  more  than  hint  at  the  neces- 
sity of  the  most  fastidious  personal  cleanliness.  The  hair, 
the  teeth,  the  nails,  should  be  faultlessly  kept ;  and  a  muslin 
dress  that  has  been  worn  once  too  often,  a  dingy  pocket-hand- 
kerchief, or  a  soiled  pair  of  light  gloves,  are  things  to  be 
scrupulously  avoided  by  any  young  lady  who  is  ambitious  of 
preserving  the  exterior  of  a  gentlewoman. 

Remember  that  the  make  of  your  corsage  is  of  even  greater 
importance  than  the  make  of  your  dress.  No  dressmaker 
can  fit  you  well,  or  make  your  bodices  in  the  manner  most 
becoming  to  your  figure,  if  the  corsage  beneath  be  not  of  the 
best  description. 

Your  boots  and  gloves  should  always  be  faultless. 

Perfumes  should  be  used  only  in  the  evening,  and  then  in 
moderation.  Let  your  perfumes  be  of  the  most  delicate  and 
recherche  kind.  Nothing  is  more  vulgar  than  a  coarse  ordi- 
nary scent ;  and  of  all  coarse,  ordinary  scents,  the  most  ob- 
jectionable are  musk  and  patchouli. 

Finally,  every  lady  should  remember  that  to  dress  well  is 
a  duty  which  she  owes  to  society ;  but  that  to  make  it  her 
idol  is  to  commit  something  worse  than  a  folly.  Fashion  is 
made  for  woman ;  not  woman  for  fashion, 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  15 


Vtll. — MORNING  AND  EVENING  PARTIES: 

The  morning  party  is  a  modern  invention.  It  was  un- 
known to  our  fathers  and  mothers,  and  even  to  ourselves  till 
quite  lately.  A  morning  party  is  seldom  given  out  of  the 
season — that  is  to  say,  during  any  months  except  those  of 
May,  June,  and  July.  It  begins  about  two  o'clock  and  ends 
about  five,  and  the  entertainment  consists  for  the  most  part 
of  conversation,  music,  and  (if  there  be  a  garden)  croquet, 
lawn  billiards,  archery,  &c.  "Aunt  Sally"  is  now  out  of 
fashion.  The  refreshments  are  given  in  the  form  of  a  dtje&ner 
a  lafourchette, 

Elegant  morning  dress,  general  good  manners,  and  some 
acquaintance  with  the  topics  of  the  day  and  the  games  above 
named,  are  all  the  qualifications  especially  necessary  to  a  lady 
at  a  morning  party. 

An  evening  party  begins  about  nine  o'clock  p.m.,  and  ends 
about  midnight,  or  somewhat  later.  Good  breeding  neither 
demands  that  you  should  present  yourself  at  the  commence- 
ment, nor  remain  till  the  close  of  the  evening.  You  come 
and  go  as  may  be  most  convenient  to  you,  and  by  these 
means  are  at  liberty,  during  the  height  of  the  season  when 
evening  parties  are  numerous,  to  present  yourself  at  two  or 
three  houses  during  a  single  evening. 

When  your  name  is  announced,  look  for  the  lady  of  the 
house,  and  pay  your  respects  to  her  before  you  even  seem  to 
see  any  other  of  your  friends  who  may  be  in  the  room.  At 
very  large  and  fashionable  receptions,  the  hostess  is  generally 
to  be  found  near  the  door.  Should  you,  however,  find  your- 
self separated  by  a  dense  crowd  of  guests,  you  are  at  liberty 
to  recognize  those  who  are  near  you,  and  those  whom  you 
encounter  as  you  make  your  way  slowly  through  the  throng. 

General  salutations  of  the  company  are  now  wholly  disused. 
In  society  a  lady  only  recognizes  her  own  friends  and  ac- 
quaintances. 

If  you  are  at  the  house  of  a  new  acquaintance  and  find 
yourself  among  entire  strangers,  remember  that  by  so  meeting 
tnder  one  roof  you  are  all  in  a  certain  sense  made  known  to 
line  another,  and  should,  therefore,  converse  freely,  as  equals. 
To  shrink  away  to  a  side-table  and  affect  to  be  absorbed  in 
some  album  or  illustrated  work  ;  or,  if  you  find  one  unlucky 
acquaintance  in  the  room,  to  fasten  upon  her  like  a  drowning 
man  clinging  to  a  spar,  are  gaucJierifs  which  no  shyness  can 
excuse. 


16  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

If  you  possess  any  musical  accomplishments,  do  not  wait 
to  be  pressed  and  entreated  by  your  hostess,  but  comply  im- 
mediately when  she  pays  you  the  compliment  of  inviting  you 
to  play  or  sing.  Remember,  however,  that  only  the  lady  of 
the  house  has  the  right  to  ask  you.  If  others  do  so,  you 
can  put  them  off  in  some  polite  way ;  but  must  not  comply 
till  the  hostess  herself  invites  you. 

Be  scrupulous  to  observe  silence  when  any  of  the  company 
are  playing  or  singing.  Remember  that  they  are  doing  this 
for  the  amusement  of  the  rest  ;  and  that  to  talk  at  such  a 
time  is  as  ill-bred  as  if  you  were  to  turn  your  back  upon  a 
person  who  was  talking  to  you,  and  begin  a  conversation  with 
some  one  else. 

If  you  are  yourself  the  performer,  bear  in  mind  that  in 
music,  as  in  speech,  "  brevity  is  the  soul  of  wit."  Two 
verses  of  a  song,  or  four  pages  of  a  piece,  are  at  all  times 
enough  to  give  pleasure.  If  your  audience  desire  more  they 
will  ask  for  more ;  and  it  is  infinitely  more  flattering  to  be 
encored  than  to  receive  the  thanks  of  your  hearers,  not  so 
much  in  gratitude  for  what  you  have  given  them,  but  in  re- 
lief that  you  have  left  off.  You  should  try  to  suit  your 
music,  like  your  conversation,  to  your  company.  A  solo  of 
Beethoven's  would  be  as  much  out  of  place  in  some  circles  as 
a  comic  song  at  a  quakers'  meeting.  To  those  who  only  care 
for  the  light  popularities  of  the  season,  give  Balfe  and  Verdi, 
Glover  and  Julien.  To  connoisseurs,  if  you  perform  well 
enough  to  venture,  give  such  music  as  will  be  likely  to  meet 
the  exigencies  of  a  fine  taste.  Above  all,  attempt  nothing 
that  you  cannot  execute  with  ease  and  precision. 

If  the  party  be  of  ?»  small  and  social  kind,  and  those  games 
called  by  the  French  les  jcux  innocents  are  proposed,  do  not 
object  to  join  in  them  when  invited.  It  maybe  that  they 
demand  some  slight  exercise  of  wit  and  readiness,  and  that 
you  do  not  feel  yourself  calculated  to  shine  in  them  ;  but  if 
is  better  to  seem  dull  than  disagreeable,  and  those  who  are 
obliging  can  always  find  some  clever  neighbour  to  assist  them 
in  the  moment  of  need. 

Impromptu  charades  are  frequently  organized  at  friendly 
parties.  Unless  you  have  really  some  talent  for  acting  and 
some  readiness  of  speech,  you  should  remember  that  you 
only  put  others  out  and  expose  your  own  inability  by  taking 
part  in  these  entertainments.  Of  course,  if  your  help  is  really 
needed,  and  you  would  disoblige  by  refusing,  you  must  do 
your  best,  and  by  doing  it  as  quietly  and  coolly  as  possible, 
avoid  being  awkward  or  ridiculous, 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  17 

Even  though  you  may  take  no  pleasure  in  cards,  some 
knowledge  of  the  etiquette  and  rules  belonging  to  the  games 
most  in  vogue  is  necessary  to  you  in  society.  If  a  fourth 
hand  is  wanted  at  a  rubber,  or  if  the  rest  of  the  company  sit 
down  to  a  round  game,  you  would  be  deemed  guilty  of  an 
impoliteness  if  you  refused  to  join. 

The  games  most  commonly  played  in  society  are  whist, 
loo,  ving-et-unt  and  speculation. 

Whist  requires  four  players.*  A  pack  of  cards  being 
spread  upon  the  table  with  their  faces  downwards,  the  four 
players  draw  for  partners.  Those  who  draw  the  two  highest 
cards  and  those  who  draw  the  two  lowest  become  partners. 
The  lowest  of  all  claims  the  deal. 

Married  people  should  not  play  at  the  same  table,  unless 
where  the  party  is  so  small  that  it  cannot  be  avoided.  This 
rule  supposes  nothing  so  disgraceful  to  any  married  couple  as 
dishonest  collusion  ;  but  persons  who  play  regularly  together 
cannot  fail  to  know  so  much  of  each  other's  mode  of  acting, 
under  given  circumstances,  that  the  chances  no  longer  remain 
perfectly  even  in  favour  of  their  adversaries. 

Never  play  for  higher  stakes  than  you  can  afford  to  lose 
without  regret.  Cards  should  be  resorted  to  for  amusement 
only  ;  for  excitement,  never. 

No  well-bred  person  ever  loses  temper  at  the  card-table. 
You  have  no  right  to  sit  down  to  the  game  unless  you  can 
bear  a  long  run  of  ill-luck  with  perfect  composure,  and  are 
prepared  cheerfully  to  pass  over  any  blunders  that  your  part- 
ner may  chance  to  make. 

If  you  are  an  indifferent  player,  make  a  point  of  saying  so 
before  you  join  a  party  at  whist.  If  the  others  are  fine 
players  they  will  be  infinitely  more  obliged  to  you  for  declin- 
ing than  accepting  their  invitation.  In  any  case  you  have  no 
right  to  spoil  their  pleasure  by  your  bad  play. 

Never  let  even  politeness  induce  you  to  play  for  very  high 
stakes.  Etiquette  is  the  minor  morality  of  life  ;  but  it  never 
should  be  allowed  to  outweigh  the  higher  code  of  right  and 
wrong. 

Young  ladies  may  decline  to  pb.y  at  cards  without  being 
deemed  guilty  of  impoliteness. 

No  very  young  lady  should  appear  at  an  evening  party 
without  an  escort. 

In  retiring  from  a  crowded  party  it  is  unnecessary  that  you 

*  For  a  succinct  guide  to  whist,  loo,  vtngt-ei-un,  speculation,  &c.,  &c., 
ft*.,  M«  Routledge's  "  Card-player,"  by  G.  F.  Pardon,  price  sixfrntt. 

9 


IS  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

should  seek  out  the  hostess  for  the  purpose  of  bidding  her  a 
formal  good-night.  By  doing  this  you  would,  perhaps,  re- 
mind others  that  it  was  getting  late,  and  cause  the  party  to 
break  up.  If  you  meet  the  lady  of  the  house  on  your  way 
to  the  drawing-room  door,  take  your  leave  of  her  as  unob- 
trusively as  possible,  and  slip  away  without  attracting  the 
attention  of  her  other  guests. 


IX. — THE  DINNER- TABLE. 

To  be  acquainted  with  every  detail  of  the  etiquette  per- 
taining to  this  subject  is  of  the  highest  importance  to  every 
gentlewoman.  Ease,  savoir  faire,  and  good  breeding  are 
nowhere  more  indispensable  than  at  the  dinner-table,  and 
the  absence  of  them  is  nowhere  more  apparent.  How  to 
eat  soup  and  what  to  do  with  a  cherry-stone  are  weighty  con- 
siderations when  taken  as  the  index  of  social  status  ;  and  it 
is  not  too  much  to  say,  that  a  young  woman  who  elected  to 
take  claret  with  her  fish,  or  ate  peas  with  her  knife,  would 
justly  risk  the  punishment  of  being  banished  from  good 
society.  As  this  subject  is  one  of  the  most  important  of 
which  we  have  to  treat,  we  may  be  pardoned  for  introducing 
an  appropriate  anecdote  related  by  the  French  poet  De- 
lille  : — 

Delille  and  Marmontel  were  dining  together  in  the  month 
of  April,  1786,  and  the  conversation  happened  to  turn  upon 
dinner-table  customs.  Marmontel  observed  how  many  little 
things  a  well-bred  man  was  obliged  to  know,  if  he  would 
avoid  being  ridiculous  at  the  tables  of  his  friends. 

"They  are,  indeed,  innumerable,"  said  Delille;  "and 
the  most  annoying  fact  of  all  is,  that  not  all  the  wit  and  good 
sense  in  the  world  can  help  one  to  divine  them  untaught.  A 
little  while  ago,  for  instance,  the  Abbe  Cosson,  who  is  Pro- 
fessor of  Literature  at  the  College  Mazarin,  was  describing 
to  me  a  grand  dinner  to  which  he  had  been  invited  at  Ver- 
sailles, and  to  which  he  had  sat  down  in  the  company  of  peers, 
princes,  and  marshals  of  France. 

"'I'll  wager  now,'  said  I,  'that  you  committed  a  hun- 
dred blunders  in  the  etiquette  of  the  table  !' 

"  '  How  so  ?*  replied  the  Abbe,  somewhat  nettled.  '  What 
blunders  could  I  make  ?  It  seems  to  me  that  I  did  precisely 
as  others  did.' 

* '  And  I,  on  the  contrary,  would  stake  my  life  that  yo« 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  19 

did  nothing  as  others  did.  But  let  us  begin  at  the  beginning, 
and  see  which  is  right.  In  the  first  place  there  was  your 
table  napkin — what  did  you  do  with  that  when  you  sat  down 
at  table  ?' 

"'What  did  I  do  with  my  table-napkin?  Why,  I  did 
like  the  rest  of  the  guests :  I  shook  it  out  of  the  folds,  spread 
it  before  me,  and  fastened  one  corner  to  my  button-hole.' 

"  '  Very  well,  man  chcr ;  you  were  the  only  person  who 
did  so.  No  one  shakes,  spreads,  and  fastens  a  table-napkin 
in  that  manner.  You  should  have  only  laid  it  across  your 
knees.  What  soup  had  you  ?' 

'"Turtle." 

"  '  And  how  did  you  eat  it?' 

"  '  Like  every  one  else,  I  suppose.  I  took  my  spoon  in 
one  hand,  and  my  fork  in  the  other ' 

' '  '  Your  fork  !  Good  heavens  !  None  but  a  savage  eats 
soup  with  a  fork.  But  go  on.  What  did  you  take  next  ?' 

'"A  boiled  egg.' 

"  '  Good  ;  and  what  did  you  do  with  the  shell  ?' 

"  'Not  eat  it,  certainly.  I  left  it,  of  course,  in  the  egg- 
cup.' 

"  '  Without  breaking  it  through  with  your  spoon?' 

"  '  Without  breaking  it.' 

"  '  Then,  my  dear  fellow,  permit  me  to  tell  you  that  no  one 
cats  an  egg  without  breaking  the  shell  and  leaving  the  spoon 
standing  in  it.  And  after  your  egg?' 

"  '  I  asked  for  some  bouilli? 

"  '  For  bouilli!  It  is  a  term  that  no  one  uses.  You 
should  have  asked  for  beef — never  for  bouilli.  Well,  and 
after  the  bouilli  ? 

"  '  I  asked  the  Abbe  de  Radonvilliers  for  some  fowl.' 

"  '  Wretched  man  !  Fowl,  indeed  !  You  should  have 
asked  for  chicken  or  capon.  The  word  "fowl"  is  never 
heard  out  of  the  kitchen.  But  all  this  applies  only  to  what 
you  ate  ;  tell  me  something  of  what  you  drank,  and  how  you 
asked  for  it.' 

"  '  I  asked  for  champagne  and  bordeaux  from  those  who 
had  the  bottles  before  them.' 

"  'Know  then,  my  good  friend,  that  only  a  waiter,  who 
has  no  time  or  breath  to  spare,  asks  for  champagne  or  bor- 
deaux. A  gentleman  asks  for  vin  de  champagne  and  -vin  de 
bordeaux.  And  now  inform  me  how  you  ate  your  bread  ?' 

"' Undoubtedly  like  all  the  rest  of  the  world.  I  cut  it 
up  into  small  square  pieces  with  my  knife.' 

"  '  Then  let  me  tell  you  that  no  one  cuts  bread.     You 

i 

^^•t 


so  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

should  always  break  it.  Let  us  go  on  to  the  coffee.  How 
did  you  drink  yours?' 

"  '  Pshaw  !  At  least  I  could  make  no  mistake  in  that. 
It  was  boiling  hot,  so  I  poured  it,  a  little  at  a  time,  in  the 
saucer,  and  drank  it  as  it  cooled.' 

"  '  Eh  lien  I  then  you  assuredly  acted  as  no  other  gentle- 
man in  the  room.  Nothing  can  be  more  vulgar  than  to  pour 
tea  or  coffee  into  a  saucer.  Ycu  should  have  waited  till  it 
cooled,  and  then  have  drunk  it  from  the  cup.  And  now  you 
see,  my  dear  cousin,  that  so  far  from  doing  precisely  as  others 
did,  you  acted  in  no  one  respect  according  to  the  laws  pre- 
scribed by  etiquette.' " 

An  invitation  to  dine  should  be  replied  to  immediately, 
and  unequivocally  accepted  or  declined.  Once  accepted, 
nothing  but  an  event  of  the  last  importance  should  cause  you 
to  fail  in  your  engagement. 

To  be  exactly  punctual  is  the  strictest  politeness  on  these 
occasions.  If  you  are  too  early,  you  are  in  the  way  ;  if  too 
late,  you  spoil  the  dinner,  annoy  the  hostess,  and  are  hated 
by  the  rest  of  the  guests.  Some  authorities  are  even  of 
opinion  that  in  the  question  of  a  dinner-party  "  never  "  is 
better  than  "late;"  and  one  author  has  gone  so  far  as  to 
say,  "  if  you  do  not  reach  the  house  till  dinner  is  served,  you 
had  better  retire,  and  send  an  apology,  and  not  interrupt  the 
harmony  of  the  courses  by  awkward  excuses  and  cold  accept- 
ance." 

When  the  party  is  assembled,  the  mistress  or  master  of  the 
house  will  point  out  to  each  gentleman  the  lady  whom  he  is 
to  conduct  to  table.  The  guests  then  go  down  according  to 
precedence  of  rank.  This  order  of  precedence  must  be  ar- 
ranged by  the  host  or  hostess,  as  the  guests  are  probably  un- 
acquainted, and  cannot  know  each  other's  social  rank. 

When  the  society  is  of  a  distinguished  kind  the  hostess 
will  do  well  to  consult  Debrett  or  Burke,  before  arranging 
her  visitors. 

When  rank  is  not  in  question,  other  claims  to  precedence 
mast  be  considered.  The  lady  who  is  the  greatest  stranger 
should  be  taken  down  by  the  master  of  the  house,  and  the 
gentleman  who  is  the  greatest  stranger  should  conduct  the 
hostess.  Married  ladies  take  precedence  of  single  ladies, 
elder  ladies  of  younger  ones,  and  so  forth. 

When  dinner  is  announced,  the  host  offers  his  arm  to  the 
lady  of  most  distinction,  invites  the  rest  to  follow  by  a  few 
words  or  a  bow,  and  leads  the  way.  The  lady  of  the  house 
•heuld  then  follow  with  the  gentleman  who  is  most  entitled 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  tl 

to  that  honour,  and  the  visitors  follow  in  the  order  that  has 
been  previously  arranged.  The  lady  of  the  house  frequently 
remains,  however,  till  the  last,  that  she  may  see  her  guests 
go  down  in  their  prescribed  order  ;  but  the  plan  is  not  a 
convenient  one.  It  is  much  better  that  the  hostess  should 
be  in  her  place  as  the  guests  enter  the  dining-room,  in  order 
that  she  may  indicate  their  seats  to  them  as  they  enter,  and 
not  find  them  all  crowded  together  in  uncertainty  when  she 
arrives. 

The  number  of  guests  at  a  dinner-party  should  always  be 
determined  by  the  size  of  the  table.  When  the  party  is  too 
small,  conversation  flags,  and  a  general  air  of  desolation 
pervades  the  table.  When  they  are  too  many,  every  one  is 
inconvenienced.  A  space  of  two  feet  should  be  allowed  to 
each  person.  It  is  well  to  arrange  a  party  in  such  wise  that 
the  number  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  be  equal. 

It  requires  some  tact  to  distribute  your  guests  so  that  each 
shall  find  himself  with  a  neighbour  to  his  taste  ;  but  as  much 
of  the  success  of  a  dinner  will  always  depend  on  this  matter, 
it  is  worth  some  consideration.  If  you  have  a  wit,  or  a 
particularly  good  talker,  among  your  visitors,  it  is  well  to 
place  him  near  the  centre  of  the  table,  where  he  can  be 
heard  and  talked  to  by  all.  It  is  obviously  a  bad  plan  to 
place  two  such  persons  in  close  proximity.  They  extinguish 
each  other.  Neither  is  it  advisable  to  assign  two  neighbour- 
ing seats  to  two  gentlemen  of  the  same  profession,  as  they 
are  likely  to  fall  into  exclusive  conversation  and  amuse  no 
one  but  themselves.  A  liule  consideration  of  the  politics, 
religious  opinions,  and  tastes  of  his  friends,  will  enable  a 
judicious  host  to  avoid  many  quicksands,  and  establish  much 
pleasant  intercourse  on  the  occasion  of  a  dinner-party. 

The  lady  of  the  house  takes  the  head  of  the  table.  The 
gentleman  who  led  her  down  to  dinner  occupies  the  seat  on, 
her  right  hand,  and  the  gentleman  next  in  order  of  prece- 
dence, that  on  her  left.  The  master  of  the  house  takes  the 
foot  of  the  table.  The  lady  whom  he  escorted  sits  on  his 
right  hand,  and  the  lady  next  in  order  of  precedence  on  his 
left. 

As  soon  as  you  are  seated  at  table,  remove  your  gloves, 
place  your  table-napkin  across  your  knees,  and  remove  the 
roll  which  you  find  probably  within  it  to  the  left  side  of  your 
plate. 

The  soup  should  be  placed  on  the  table  first .  Some  old- 
fashioned  persons  still  place  soup  and  fish  together  ;  but  "  it 
is  a  custom  more  honoured  in  the  breach  than  the  observ- 


12  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

ance."  Still  more  old-fashioned,  and  in  still  worse  taste  is  it 
to  ask  your  guests  if  they  will  take  "soup  or  fish."  They 
are  as  much  separate  courses  as  the  fish  and  the  meat ;  and. 
all  experienced  diners  take  both.  In  any  case,  it  is  inhos- 
pitable to  appear  to  force  a  choice  upon  a  visitor,  when  that 
visitor,  in  all  probability,  will  prefer  to  take  his  soup  first  and 
his  fish  afterwards.  All  well- ordered  dinners  begin  with 
soup,  whether  in  summer  or  winter.  The  lady  of  the  house 
should  help  it,  and  send  it  round  without  asking  each  indi- 
vidual in  turn.  It  is  as  much  an  understood  thing  as  the 
bread  beside  each  plate,  and  those  who  do  not  choose  it  are 
always  at  liberty  to  leave  it  untasted. 

In  eating  soup,  remember  always  to  take  it  from  the  side 
of  the  spoon,  and  to  make  no  sound  in  doing  so. 

If  the  servants  do  not  go  round  with  wine  the  gentlemen 
should  help  the  ladies  and  themselves  to  sherry  or  sautenie 
immediately  after  the  soup. 

You  should  never  ask  for  a  second  supply  of  either  soup  or 
fish  ;  it  delays  the  next  course,  and  keeps  the  table  waiting. 

Never  offer  to  ''assist"  your  neighbours  to  this  or  that 
dish.  The  word  is  inexpressibly  vulgar — all  the  more  vulgar 
for  its  affectation  of  elegance.  "  Shall  I  send  you  some 
mutton?"  or  " may  I  help  you  to  grouse ?"  is  better  chosen 
and  better  bred. 

As  a  general  rule,  it  is  better  not  to  ask  your  guests  if  they 
•will  partake  of  the  dishes  ;  but  to  send  the  plates  round,  and 
let  them  accept  or  decline  them  as  they  please.  At  very 
large  dinners  it  is  sometimes  customary  to  distribute  little 
lists  of  the  order  of  the  dishes  at  intervals  along  the  table. 
It  must  be  confessed  that  this  gives  somewhat  the  air  of  a 
dinner  at  an  hotel ;  but  it  has  the  advantage  of  enabling  the 
visitors  to  select  their  fare,  and,  as  "forewarned  is  fore- 
armed," to  keep  a  corner,  as  the  children  say,  for  their  fa- 
vourite dishes. 

As  soon  as  you  are  helped,  begin  to  eat ;  or,  if  the  viands 
are  too  hot  for  your  palate,  take  up  your  knife  and  fork  and 
appear  to  begin.  To  wait  for  others  is  now  net  only  old- 
fashioned,  but  ill-bred. 

Never  offer  to  pass  on  the  plate  to  which  you  have  been 
helped.  This  is  a  still  more  vulgar  piece  of  politeness,  and 
belongs  to  the  manners  of  a  hundred  years  ago.  The  lady  of 
the  house  who  sends  your  plate  to  you  is  the  best  judge  of 
precedence  at  her  own  table. 

In  helping  soup,  fish,  or  any  other  dish,  remember  that  to 
overfill  a  plate  is  as  bad  as  to  supply  it  too  scantily. 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  53 

Silver  fish-knives  will  now  always  be  met  with  at  the  best 
tables  ;  but  where  there  are  none,  a  piece  of  crust  should  be 
taken  in  the  left  hand,  and  the  fork  in  the  right.  There  is 
no  exception  to  this  rule  in  eating  fish. 

\Ve  presume  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  remind  our  fair 
reader  that  she  is  never,  under  any  circumstances,  to  convey 
her  knife  to  her  mouth.  Peas  are  eaten  with  the  fork ;  tarts, 
curry,  and  puddings  of  all  kinds  with  the  spoon. 

Always  help  fish  with  a  fish-slice,  and  tart  and  puddings 
with  a  spoon,  or,  if  necessary,  a  spoon  and  fork. 

Asparagus  must  be  helped  with  the  asparagus-tongs. 

In  eating  asparagus,  it  is  well  to  observe  what  others  do, 
and  act  accordingly.  Some  very  well-bred  people  eat  it  with 
the  fingers ;  others  cut  off  the  heads,  and  convey  them  to  the 
mouth  upon  the  fork.  It  would  be  difficult  to  say  which  is 
the  more  correct. 

In  eating  stone  fruit,  such  as  cherries,  damsons,  &c.,  the 
same  rule  had  better  be  observed.  Some  put  the  stones  out 
from  the  mouth  into  a  spoon,  and  so  convey  them  to  the 
plate.  Others  cover  the  lips  with  the  hand,  drop  them  un- 
seen into  the  palm,  and  so  deposit  them  on  the  side  of  the 
plate.  In  our  own  opinion,  the  last  is  the  better  way,  as  it 
effectually  conceals  the  return  of  the  stones,  which  is  certainly 
the  point  of  highest  importance.  Of  one  thing  we  may  be 
sure,  and  that  is,  that  they  must  never  be  dropped  from  the 
mouth  to  the  plate. 

In  helping  sauce,  always  pour  it  on  the  side  of  the  plate. 

If  the  servants  do  not  go  round  with  the  wine  (which  is  by 
far  the  best  custom),  the  gentlemen  at  a  dinner-table  should 
take  upon  themselves  the  office  of  helping  those  ladies  who 
sit  near  them.  Young  ladies  seldom  drink  more  than  three 
glasses  of  wine  at  dinner ;  but  married  ladies,  professional 
ladies,  and  those  accustomed  to  society  and  habits  of  afflu- 
ence, will  haKtually  take  five  or  even  six,  whether  in  their 
own  home?  or  at  the  tables  of  their  friends. 

The  h?b:f.  cf  taking  wine  with  each  other  has  almost 
wholly  '-.ur/e  out  of  fashion.  A  gentleman  may  ask  the  lady 
who«n  !ie  conducted  down  to  dinner ;  or  he  may  ask  the 
lady  of  the  house  to  take  wine  with  him.  But  even  these 
last  remnants  of  the  old  custom  are  fast  falling  into  disuse. 

Unless  you  are  a  total  abstainer,  it  is  extremely  uncivil  to 
decline  taking  wine  if  you  are  invited  to  do  so.  In  accepting, 
you  have  only  to  pour  a  little  fresh  wine  into  your  glass,  look 
at  the  person  who  invited  you,  bow  slightly,  and  take  a  sip 
from  the  glass. 


34  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

It  is  particularly  ill-bred  to  empty  your  glass  on  these  oc- 
casions. 

Certain  wines  are  taken  with  certain  dishes,  by  old-estab- 
lished custom — as  sherry,  or  sauterne,  with  soup  and  fish  ; 
hock  and  claret  with  roast  meat ;  punch  with  turtle  ;  cham- 
pagne with  whitebait ;  port  with  venison ;  port,  or  burgundy, 
with  game  ;  sparkling  wines  between  the  roast  and  the  con- 
fectionery ;  madeira  with  sweets  ;  port  with  cheese  ;  and  for 
dessert,  port,  tokay,  madeira,  sherry,  and  claret.  Red  wines 
should  never  be  iced,  even  in  summer.  Claret  and  burgundy 
should  always  be  slightly  warmed ;  claret-cup  and  cham- 
pagne-cup should,  of  course,  be  iced. 

Instead  of  cooling  their  wines  in  the  ice-pail,  some  hosts 
have  of  late  years  introduced  clear  ice  upon  the  table,  broken 
up  in  small  lumps,  to  be  put  inside  the  glasses.  This  is  an 
innovation  that  cannot  be  too  strictly  reprehended  or  too  soon 
abolished.  Melting  ice  can  but  weaken  the  quality  and 
flavour  of  the  wine.  Those  who  desire  to  drink  wine  and 
•water  can  ask  for  iced  water  if  they  choose  ;  but  it  savours 
too  much  of  economy  on  the  part  of  a  host  to  insinuate  the 
ice  inside  the  glasses  of  his  guests  when  the  wine  could  be 
more  effectually  iced  outside  the  bottle. 

A  silver  knife  and  fork  should  be  placed  to  each  guest  at 
dessert. 

It  is  wise  never  to  partake  of  any  dish  without  knowing  of 
what  ingredients  it  is  composed.  You  can  always  ask  the 
servant  \\ho  hands  it  to  you,  and  you  thereby  avoid  all  dan- 
ger of  having  to  commit  the  impoliteness  of  leaving  it,  and 
showing  that  you  do  not  approve  of  it. 

Never  speak  while  you  have  anything  in  your  mouth. 

Be  careful  never  to  taste  soups  or  puddings  till  you  are  sure 
they  are  sufficiently  ccol ;  as,  by  disregarding  this  caution, 
you  may  be  compelled  to  swallow  what  is  dangerously  hot, 
or  be  driven  to  the  unpardonable  alternative  of  returning  it 
to  your  plate. 

When  eating  or  drinking,  avoid  every  kind  of  audible  tes- 
timony to  the  facts. 

Finger-glasses,  containing  water  slightly  warmed  and  per- 
fumed, are  placed  to  each  person  at  dessert.  In  these  you 
may  dip  the  tips  of  your  fingers,  wiping  them  afterwards  on 
your  table-napkin.  If  the  finger-glass  and  doyley  are  placed 
on  your  dessert-plate,  you  should  immediately  remove  the 
doyley  to  the  left  of  your  plate,  and  place  the  finger-glass 
upon  it.  By  these  means  von  nght  lor  the  wine- 

glasses. 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  25 

Be  careful  to  know  the  shapes  of  the  various  kinds  of 
wine-glasses  commonly  in  use,  in  order  that  you  may  never 
put  forward  one  for  another.  High  and  narrow,  and  very 
broad  and  shallow  glasses,  are  used  for  champagne  ;  large, 
goblet-shaped  glasses  for  burgundy  and  claret ;  ordinary  wine- 
glasses for  sherry  and  madeira  ;  green  glasses  for  hock  ;  and 
somewhat  large,  bell-shaped  glasses,  for  port. 

Port,-  sherry,  and  madeira,  are  decanted.  Hocks  and 
champagnes  appear  in  their  native  bottles.  Claret  and  bur- 
gundy are  handed  round  in  a  claret-jug. 

The  servants  leave  the  room  when  the  dessert  is  on  the 
table. 

Coffee  and  liqueurs  should  be  handed  round  when  the  des- 
sert ras  been  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  on  the  table.  After 
this,  the  ladies  generally  retire. 

The  lady  of  the  house  should  never  send  away  her  plate, 
or  appear  to  have  done  eating,  till  all  her  guests  have  fin- 
ished. 

If  you  should  unfortunately  overturn  or  break  anything, 
do  not  apologize  for  it.  You  can  show  your  regret  in  your 
face,  but  it  is  not  well-bred  to  put  it  into  words. 

To  abstain  from  taking  the  last  piece  on  the  dish,  or  the 
last  glass  of  wine  in  the  decanter,  only  because  it  is  the  last, 
is  highly  ill-bred.  It  implies  a  fear  on  your  part  that  the 
vacancy  cannot  be  supplied,  and  almost  conveys  an  affront  to 
your  host. 

To  those  ladies  who  have  houses  and  servants  at  command, 
we  have  one  or  two  remarks  to  offer.  Every  housekeeper 
should  be  acquainted  with  the  routine  of  a  dinner  and  the 
etiquette  of  a  dinner-table.  No  lady  should  be  utterly  de- 
pendent on  the  taste  and  judgment  of  her  cook.  Though 
she  need  not  know  how  to  dress  a  dish,  she  should  be  able  to 
Judge  of  it  when  served.  The  mistress  of  a  house,  in  short, 
should  be  to  her  cook  what  a  publisher  is  to  his  authors — 
that  is  to  say,  competent  to  form  a  judgment  upon  their 
works,  though  himself  incapable  of  writing  even  a  magazine 
article. 

If  you  wish  to  give  a  good  dinner,  and  do  not  know  in 
what  manner  to  set  about  it,  you  will  do  wisely  to  order  it 
from  Birch,  Kiihn,  or  any  other  first-rate  restaurateur.  By 
these  means  you  ensure  the  best  cookery  and  a  faultless  carle. 

Bear  in  mind  that  it  is  your  duty  to  entertain  your  friends 
in  the  best  manner  that  your  means  permit.  This  is  the  least 
you  can  do  to  recompense  them  for  the  expenditure  of  time 
and  money  which  they  incur  in  accepting  your  invitation. 


26  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

"  To  invite  a  friend  to  dinner,"  says  Brillat  Savarin,  "  is 
to  become  responsible  for  his  happiness  so  long  as  he  is  under 
your  roof."  Again  : — "  He  who  receives  friends  at  his  table, 
without  having  bestowed  his  personal  supervision  upon  the 
repast  placed  before  them,  is  unworthy  to  have  friends." 

A  dinner,  to  be  excellent,  need  not  consist  of  a  great 
variety  of  dishes  :  but  everything  should  be  of  the  best,  and 
the  cookery  should  be  perfect.  That  which  should  be  cool 
should  be  cool  as  ice  ;  that  which  should  be  hot  should  be 
smoking ;  the  attendance  should  be  rapid  and  noiseless  ;  the 
guests  well  assorted  ;  the  wines  of  the  best  quality  ;  the  host 
attentive  and  courteous ;  the  room  well  lighted ;  and  the  time 
punctual. 

Every  dinner  should  begin  with  soup,  be  followed  by  fish, 
and  include  some  kind  of  game.  ' '  The  soup  is  to  the  din- 
ner," we  are  told  by  Grisnod  de  la  Regniere,  "what  the 
portico  is  to  a  building,  or  the  overture  to  an  opera." 

To  this  aphorism  we  may  be  permitted  to  add  that  a  chasse 
of  cognac  or  cura9oa  at  the  close  of  the  dinner  is  like  the 
epilogue  at  the  end  of  a  comedy. 

Never  reprove  or  give  directions  to  your  servants  before 
guests.  If  a  dish  is  not  placed  precisely  where  you  would 
have  wished  it  to  stand,  or  the  order  of  a  course  is  reversed, 
let  the  error  pass  unobserved  by  yourself,  and  you  may  de- 
pend that  it  will  be  unnoticed  by  others. 

If  you  are  a  mother,  you  will  be  wise  never  to  let  your 
children  make  their  appearance  at  dessert  when  you  entertain 
friends  at  dinner.  Children  are  out  of  place  on  these  occa- 
sions. Your  guests  only  tolerate  them  through  politeness ; 
their  presence  interrupts  the  genial  flow  of  after-dinner  con- 
versation ;  and  you  may  rely  upon  it  that,  with  the  exception 
of  yourself,  and  perhaps  your  husband,  there  is  not  a  person 
at  table  who  does  not  wish  them  in  the  nursery. 

The  duties  of  hostess  at  a  dinner-party  are  not  onerous ; 
but  they  demand  tact  and  good  breeding,  grace  of  bearing, 
and  self-possession  in  no  ordinary  degree.  She  does  not 
often  carve.  She  has  no  active  duties  to  perform ;  but  she 
must  neglect  nothing,  forget  nothing,  put  all  her  guests  at 
their  ease,  encourage  the  timid,  draw  out  the  silent,  and  pay 
every  possible  attention  to  the  requirements  of  each  and  all 
around  her.  No  accident  must  ruffle  her  temper.  No  dis- 
appointment must  embarrass  her.  She  must  see  her  old 
china  broken  without  a  sigh,  and  her  best  glass  shattered  with 
a  smile.  In  short,  to  quote  the  language  of  a  clever  con- 
temporary, she  must  have  "the  genius  of  tact  to  perceive^ 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  27 

and  the  genius  of  finesse  to  execute  ;  ease  and  frankness  of 
manner ;  a  knowledge  of  the  world  that  nothing  can  surprise  ; 
a  calmness  of  temper  that  nothing  can  disturb  ;  and  a  kind- 
ness of  disposition  that  can  never  be  exhausted." 


X. — THE  BALL-ROOM. 

As  the  number  of  guests  at  a  dinner-party  is  regulated  by 
the  size  of  the  table,  so  should  the  number  of  invitations  to 
a  ball  be  limited  by  the  proportions  of  the  ball-room.  A 
prudent  hostess  will  always  invite  a  few  more  guests  than  she 
really  desires  to  entertain,  in  the  certainty  that  there  will  be 
some  deserters  when  the  appointed  evening  comes  round;  but 
she  will  at  the  same  time  remember  that  to  overcrowd  her 
room  is  to  spoil  the  pleasure  of  those  who  love  dancing,  and 
that  a  party  of  this  kind  when  too  numerously  attended  is  as 
great  a  failure  as  one  at  which  too  few  are  present. 

A  room  which  is  nearly  square,  yet  a  little  longer  than  it  is 
broad,  will  be  found  the  most  favourable  for  a  ball.  It  ad  • 
mils  of  two  quadrille  paities,  or  two  round  dances,  at  the 
same  time.  In  a  perfectly  square  room  this  arrangement  is 
not  so  practicable  or  pleasant.  A  veiy  long  and  narrow  room 
is  obviously  of  the  worst  shape  for  the  purpose  of  dancing, 
and  is  fit  only  for  quadrilles  and  country  dances. 

The  lop  of  the  ball-room  is  the  part  nearest  the  orchestra. 
In  a  private  room,  the  top  is  where  it  would  be  if  the  room 
were  a  dining-room.  It  is  generally  at  the  farthest  point  from 
the  door.  Dancers  should  be  careful  to  ascertain  the  top  of 
the  room  before  taking  their  places,  as  the  top  couples  always 
lead  the  dances. 

A  good  floor  is  of  the  last  importance  in  a  ball-room.  In 
a  private  house,  nothing  can  be  better  than  a  smooth,  well- 
stretched  holland,  with  the  carpet  beneath. 

Abundance  of  light  and  free  ventilation  are  indispensable 
to  the  spirits  and  comfort  of  the  dancers. 

Good  music  is  as  necessary  to  the  prosperity  of  a  ball  as 
good  wine  to  the  excellence  of  a  dinner.  No  hostess  should 
tax  her  friends  for  this  part  of  the  entertainment.  It  is  the 
most  injudicious  economy  imaginable.  Ladies  who  would 
prefer  to  dance  are  tied  to  the  pianoforte  ;  and  as  few  ama- 
teurs have  been  trained  in  the  art  of  playing  dance  music 
with  that  strict  attention  to  time  and  accent  which  is  abso- 
lutely necessary  to  the  comfort  of  the  dancers,  a  total  and 


28  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

general  discontent  is  sure  to  result.  To  play  dance  music 
thoroughly  well  is  a  branch  of  the  art  which  requires  con- 
siderable practice.  It  is  as  different  from  every  other  kind  of 
playing  as  whale  fishing  is  from  fly  fishing.  Those  who  give 
private  balls  will  do  well  ever  to  bear  this  in  mind,  and  to 
provide  skilled  musicians  for  the  evening.  For  a  small  party, 
a  piano  and  cornopean  make  a  very  pleasant  combination. 
Unless  where  several  instruments  are  engaged,  we  do  not 
recommend  the  introduction  of  the  violin  :  although  in  some 
respects  the  finest  of  all  solo  instruments,  it  is  apt  to  sound 
thin  and  shrill  when  employed  on  mere  inexpressive  dance 
tunes,  and  played  by  a  mere  dance  player. 

Invitations  to  a  ball  should  be  issued  in  the  name  of  the 
la  ly  of  the  house,  and  written  on  small  note  paper  of  the 
best  quality.  Elegant  printed  forms,  some  of  them  printed 
in  gold  or  silver,  are  to  be  had  at  every  stationer's  by  those 
who  prefer  them.  The  paper  may  be  gilt-edged,  but  not 
coloured.  The  sealing-wax  used  should  be  of  some  delicate 
hue. 

An  invitation  to  a  ball  should  be  sent  out  at  least  ten  days 
before  the  evening  appointed.  A  fortnight,  three  weeks,  and 
even  a  month  may  be  allowed  in  the  way  of  notice. 

Not  more  than  two  or  three  days  should  be  permitted  to 
elapse  before  you  reply  to  an  invitation  of  this  kind.  The 
reply  should  always  be  addressed  to  the  lady  of  the  house,  and 
should  be  couched  in  the  same  person  as  the  invitation.  The 
following  are  the  forms  generally  in  use  : — 

Mrs.  Molyneux  requests  the  honour  of  Captain  Hamilton's  company 
•t  an  evening  party,  on  Monday,  March  the  nth  instant. 
'Dancing  will  begin  at  Nine  o'clock. 

Thursday,  March  ist. 

Captain  Hamilton  has  much  pleasure  in  accepting  Mrs.  Molyneux's 
polite  invitation  for  Monday  evening,  March  the  nth  instant. 

Friday,  March  znd. 

The  old  form  of  "  presenting  compliments  "  is  now  out  of 
fashion. 

The  lady  who  gives  a  ball*  should  endeavour  to  secure  an 
equal  number  of  dancers  of  both  sexes.  Many  private  par- 
ties are  spoiled  by  the  preponderance  of  young  ladies,  some 
of  whom  never  get  partners  at  all,  unless  they  dance  with  each 
other. 

*  It  will  be  understosd  that  we  use  the  word  "  ball "  to  signify  a  pri- 
vate party,  where  there  is  dancing,  as  well  as  a  public  ball. 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  39 

A  room  should  in  all  cases  be  provided  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  the  ladies.  In  this  room  there  ought  to  be  several 
looking-glasses  ;  attendants  to  assist  the  fair  visitors  in  the 
arrangement  of  their  hair  and  dress ;  and  some  place  in 
which  the  cloaks  and  shawls  can  be  laid  in  order,  and  found 
at  a  moment's  notice.  It  is  well  to  affix  tickets  to  the  cloaks, 
giving  a  duplicate  at  the  same  time  to  each  lady,  as  at  the 
public  theatres  and  concert-rooms.  Needles  and  thread 
should  also  be  at  hand,  to  repair  any  little  accident  incurred 
in  dancing. 

Another  room  should  be  devoted  to  refreshments,  and  kept 
amply  supplied  with  coffee,  lemonade,  ices,  wine,  and  bis- 
cuits during  the  evening.  Where  this  cannot  be  arranged, 
the  refreshments  should  be  handed  round  between  the  dances. 

The  question  of  supper  is  one  which  so  entirely  depends 
on  the  means  of  those  who  give  a  ball  or  evening  party, 
that  very  little  can  be  said  upon  it  in  a  treatise  of  this 
description.  Where  money  is  no  object,  it  is  of  course 
always  preferable  to  have  the  whole  supper,  "with  all 
appliances  and  means  to  boot,"  sent  in  from  some  first- 
rate  house.  It  spares  all  trouble  whether  to  the  entertainers 
or  their  servants,  and  relieves  the  hostess  of  every  anxiety. 
Where  circumstances  render  such  a  course  imprudent,  we 
would  only  observe  that  a  home-provided  supper,  however 
simple,  should  be  good  of  its  kii.d,  and  abundant  in  quantity. 
Dancers  are  generally  hungry  people,  and  feel  themselves 
much  aggrieved  if  the  supply  of  sandwiches  proves  unequal 
to  the  demand.  Great  inconvenience  is  often  experienced 
through  the  difficulty  of  procuring  cabs  at  the  close  of  an 
evening  party.  Gentlemen  who  have  been  dancing,  and  are 
unprepared  for  walking,  object  to  go  home  on  foot,  or  seek 
vehicles  for  their  wives  and  daughters.  Female  servants  who 
have  been  in  attendance  upon  the  visitors  during  a  whole 
evening  ought  not  to  be  sent  out.  If  even  men-servants  are 
kept,  they  may  find  it  difficult  to  procure  as  many  cabs  as  are 
necessary.  The  best  thing  that  the  giver  of  a  private  ball 
can  do  under  these  circumstances,  is  to  engage  a  policeman 
with  a  lanthorn  to  attend  on  the  pavement  during  the  even- 
ing, and  to  give  notice  during  the  morning  at  a  neighbouring 
cab-stand,  so  as  to  ensure  a  sufficient  number  of  vehicles  at 
the  time  when  they  are  likely  to  be  required. 

A  ball  generally  begins  about  half-past  nine  or  ten  o'clock. 

To  attempt  to  dance  without  a  knowledge  of  dancing  is 
not  only  to  make  one's  self  ridiclilous,  but  one's  partner  also. 
No  lady  has  a  right  to  place  a  partner  in  this  absurd  position, 


30  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

Never  forget  a  ball-room  engagement.  To  do  so  is  to 
commit  an  unpardonable  offence  against  good  breeding. 

On  entering  the  ball-room,  the  visitor  should  at  once  seek 
the  lady  of  the  house,  and  pay  her  respects  to  her.  Having 
done  this,  she  may  exchange  salutations  with  such  friends 
and  acquaintances  as  may  be  in  the  room. 

No  lady  should  accept  an  invitation  to  dance  from  a  gentle- 
man to  whom  she  has  not  been  introduced.  In  case  any 
gentleman  should  commit  the  error  of  so  inviting  her,  she 
should  not  excuse  herself  on  the  plea  of  a  previous  engage- 
ment, or  of  fatigue,  as  to  do  so  would  imply  that  she  did  not 
herself  attach  due  importance  to  the  necessary  ceremony  of 
introduction.  Her  best  reply  would  be  to  the  effect  that  she 
would  have  much  pleasure  in  accepting  his  invitation,  if  he 
would  procure  an  introduction  to  her.  This  observation  may 
be  taken  as  applying  only  to  public  balls.  At  a  private  party 
the  host  and  hostess  are  sufficient  guarantees  for  the  respect- 
ability of  their  guests ;  and  although  a  gentleman  would 
show  a  singular  want  of  knowledge  of  the  laws  of  society  in 
acting  as  we  have  supposed,  the  lady  who  should  reply  to 
him  as  if  he  were  merely  an  impertinent  stranger  in  a  public 
assembly-room  would  be  implying  an  affront  to  her  enter- 
tainers. The  mere  fact  of  being  assembled  together  under 
the  roof  of  a  mutual  friend  is  in  itself  a  kind  of  general 
introduction  of  the  guests  to  each  other. 

An  introduction  given  for  the  mere  purpose  of  enabling  a 
lady  and  gentleman  to  go  through  a  dance  together  does  not 
constitute  an  acquaintanceship.  The  lady  is  at  liberty  to 
pass  the  gentleman  in  the  park  the  next  day  without  recog- 
nition. 

It  is  not  necessary  that  a  lady  should  be  acquainted  with 
the  steps,  in  order  to  walk  gracefully  and  easily  through  a 
quadrille.  An  easy  carriage  and  a  knowledge  of  the  figure 
is  all  that  is  requisite.  A  round  dance,  however,  should  on 
no  account  be  attempted  without  a  thorough  knowledge  of 
the  steps,  and  some  previous  practice. 

No  person  who  has  not  a  good  ear  for  time  and  tune  need 
hope  to  dance  well. 

No  lady  should  accept  refreshments  from  a  stranger  at  a 
public  ball ;  for  she  would  thereby  lay  herself  under  a  pecu- 
niary obligation.  For  these  she  must  rely  on  her  father, 
brothers,  or  old  friends. 

Good  taste  forbids  that  a  lady  should  dance  too  frequently 
with  the  same  partner  at  either  a  public  or  private  ball, 


ETIQUETfE  FOR  LADIES.  31 

Engaged  persons  should  be  careful  not  to  commit  this  con- 
spicuous solecism. 

Engagements  for  one  dance  should  not  be  made  while  the 
present  dance  is  yet  in  progress. 

Never  attempt  to  take  a  place  in  a  dance  which  has  been 
previously  engaged. 

Withdraw  from  a  private  ball-room  as  quietly  as  possible, 
so  that  your  departure  may  not  be  observed  by  others,  and 
cause  the  party  to  break  up.  If  you  meet  the  lady  of  the 
house  on  your  way  out,  take  your  leave  of  her  in  such  a  man- 
ner that  her  other  guests  may  not  suppose  you  are  doing 
so  ;  but  do  not  seek  her  out  for  that  purpose. 

Never  be  seen  without  gloves  in  a  ball-room,  though  it 
were  for  only  a  few  moments.  Ladies  who  dance  much  and 
are  particularly  soigne  in  matters  relating  to  the  toilette,  take 
a  second  pair  of  gloves  to  replace  the  first  when  soiled. 

A  thoughtful  hostess  will  never  introduce  a  bad  dancer  to 
a  good  one,  because  she  has  no  right  to  punish  one  friend  in 
order  to  oblige  another. 

It  is  not  customary  for  married  persons  to  dance  together 
in  society.* 


XI.—  STAYING  AT  A  FRIEND'S  HOUSE  :—  BREAKFAST, 
LUNCHEON,  &c. 

A  visitor  is  bound  by  the  laws  of  social  intercourse  to  con- 
form in  all  respects  to  the  habits  of  the  house.  In  order  to 
do  this  effectually,  she  should  inquire,  or  cause  her  personal 
servant  to  inquire,  what  those  habits  are.  To  keep  your 
friend's  breakfast  on  the  table  till  a  late  hour  ;  to  delay  the 
ilinner  by  want  of  punctuality  ;  to  accept  other  invitations, 
and  treat  his  house  as  if  it  were  merely  an  hotel  to  be  slept 
in  ;  or  to  keep  the  family  up  till  unwonted  hours,  are  alike 
evidences  of  a  want  of  good  feeling  arxl  good  breeding. 

At  breakfast  and  lunch  absolute  punctuality  is  not  impera- 
tive ;  but  a  visitor  should  avoid  being  always  the  last  to  appear 
at  table. 

No  order  of  precedence  is  observed  at  either  breakfast  or 
luncheon.  Persons  take  their  seats  as  they  come  in,  and, 
having  exchanged  their  morning  salutations,  begin  to  eat 
without  waiting  for  the  rest  of  the  party. 


*  For  a  more  detailed  account  of  the  laws  and  tusjnesg  9f  the 
pjc  the  chapter  entitled  "The  EaU-rww  Guide." 


32  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

If  letters  are  delivered  to  you  at  breakfast  or  luncheon,  you 
may  read  them  by  asking  permission  from  the  lady  who  pre- 
sides at  the  urn. 

Always  hold  yourself  at  the  disposal  of  those  in  whose 
house  y°u  ire  visiting.  If  they  propose  to  ride,  drive,  walk, 
or  utnerwise  -ccupy  the  day,  you  may  take  it  for  granted 
that  these  plans  are  made  with  reference  to  your  enjoyment. 
You  should,  therefore,  receive  them  with  cheerfulness,  enter 
into  them  with  alacrity,  and  do  your  best  to  seem  pleased, 
and  be  pleased,  by  the  efforts  which  your  friends  make  to 
entertain  you. 

You  should  never  take  a  book  from  the  library  to  your  own 
room  without  requesting  permission  to  borrow  it.  When  it 
is  lent,  you  should  take  every  care  that  it  sustains  no  injury 
while  in  your  possession,  and  should  cover  it,  if  necessary. 

A  guest  should  endeavour  to  amuse  herself  as  much  as 
possible,  and  not  be  continually  dependent  on  her  hosts  for 
entertainment.  She  should  remember  that,  however  welcome 
she  may  be,  she  is  not  always  wanted. 

Those  who  receive  "staying  visitors,"  as  they  are  called, 
should  remember  that  the  truest  hospitality  is  that  which 
places  the  visitor  most  at  her  ease,  and  affords  her  the  greatest 
opportunity  for  enjoyment.  They  should  also  remember  that 
different  persons  have  different  ideas  on  the  subject  of  enjoy- 
ment, and  that  the  surest  way  of  making  a  guest  happy  is  to 
find  out  what  gives  her  pleasure ;  not  to  impose  that  upon 
her  which  is  pleasure  to  themselves. 

A  visitor  should  avoid  giving  unnecessary  trouble  to  the 
servants  of  the  hquse,  and  should  be  liberal  to  them  on  leav- 
ing. 

The  signal  for  retiring  to  rest  is  generally  given  by  the 
appearance  of  the  servant  with  wine,  water,  and  biscuits, 
where  a  late  dinner-hour  is  observed  and  suppers  are  not  the 
custom.  This  is  the  last  refreshment  of  the  evening,  and  the 
visitor  will  do  well  to  rise  and  wish  good-night  shortly  after 
it  has  been  partaken  of  by  the  family. 


XII. — GENERAL  HINTS. 

Do  not  frequently  repeat  the  name  of  the  person  with 
whom  you  are  conversing.  It  implies  either  the  extreme  of 
hauteur  or  familiarity.  We  have  already  cautioned  you 
against  the  repetition  pf  titles,  Deference  can  always  be 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES.  33 

better  expressed  in  the  voice,  manner,  and  countenance  than 
in  any  forms  of  words. 

Never  speak  of  absent  persons  by  only  their  Christian  or 

surnames ;  but  always  as  Mr.  or  Mrs.  .  Above 

all,  never  name  anybody  by  the  first  letter  of  his  name. 
Married  people  are  sometimes  guilty  of  this  flagrant  offence 
against  taste. 

No  lady  should  permit  any  gentleman  who  is  not  a  neai 
relative,  or  very  old  friend  of  her  family,  to  defray  the  cost 
of  her  entrance  fee  to  any  theatre  or  exhibition,  or  to  pay  for 
her  refreshments  or  vehicles  when  she  happens  to  be  out 
under  his  protection. 

If  a  person  of  greater  age  or  higher  rank  than  yourself 
desires  you  to  step  first  into  a  carriage,  or  through  a  door,  it 
is  more  polite  to  bow  and  obey  than  to  decline. 

Compliance  with,  and  deference  to,  the  wishes  of  others  is 
the  finest  breeding. 

When  you  cannot  agree  with  the  propositions  advanced  in 
general  conversation,  be  silent.  If  pressed  for  your  opinion, 
give  it  with  modesty.  Never  defend  your  own  views  too 
warmly.  When  you  find  others  remain  unconvinced,  drop 
the  subject,  or  lead  to  some  other  topic. 

Look  at  those  who  address  you. 

Never  boast  of  your  birth,  your  money,  your  grand  friends, 
or  anything  that  is  yours.  If  you  have  travelled,  do  not 
introduce  that  information  into  your  conversation  at  every 
opportunity.  Any  one  can  travel  with  money  and  leisure. 
The  real  distinction  is  to  come  home  with  enlarged  views, 
improved  tastes,  and  a  mind  free  from  prejudice. 

If  you  present  a  book  to  a  friend,  do  not  write  his  or  her 
name  in  it,  unless  requested.  You  have  no  right  to  presume 
that  it  will  be  rendered  any  the  more  valuable  for  that  addi- 
tion ;  and  you  ought  not  to  conclude  beforehand  that  your 
gift  will  be  accepted. 

Never  undervalue  the  gift  which  you  are  yourself  offering  ; 
you  have  no  business  to  offer  it  if  it  is  valueless.  Neither 
say  that  you  do  not  want  it  yourself,  or  that  you  should  throw 
it  away  if  it  were  not  accepted,  &c.,  &c.  Such  apologies 
would  be  insults  if  true,  and  mean  nothing  if  false. 

No  compliment  that  bears  insincerity  on  the  face  of  it  is  a 
compliment  at  all. 

Unmarried  ladies  may  not  accept  presents  from  gentlemen 
who  are  neither  related  nor  engaged  to  them.  Presents  made 
by  a  married  lady  to  a  gentleman  can  only  be  offered  in  the 
joint  names  of  her  husband  and  herself. 


34  ETIQUETTE  FOR  LADIES. 

Married  ladies  may  occasionally  accept  presents  from 
gentlemen  who  visit  frequently  at  their  houses,  and  who  de- 
sire to  show  their  sense  of  the  hospitality  which  they  receive 
.here. 

There  is  an  art  and  propriety  in  the  giving  of  presents 
which  it  requires  a  natural  delicacy  of  disposition  rightly  to 
apprehend.  You  must  not  give  too  rich  a  gift,  nor  too  poor 
a  gift.  You  must  not  give  to  one  much  wealthier  than  your- 
self; and  you  must  beware  how  you  give  to  one  much  poorer, 
lest  you  offend  her  pride.  You  must  never  make  a  present 
with  any  expectation  of  a  return  ;  and  you  must  not  be  too 
eager  to  make  a  return  yourself,  when  you  accept  one.  A 
gift  must  not  be  ostentatious,  but  it  should  be  worth  offering. 
On  the  other  hand,  mere  costliness  does  not  constitute  the 
soul  of  a  present. 

A  gift  should  be  precious  for  something  better  than  its 
price.  It  may  have  been  brought  by  the  giver  from  some 
far  or  famous  place  ;  it  may  be  unique  in  its  workmanship  ; 
it  may  be  valuable  only  from  association  with  some  great  man 
or  strange  event.  Autographic  papers,  foreign  curiosities, 
and  the  like,  are  elegant  gifts.  An  author  may  offer  his 
book,  or  a  painter  a  sketch,  with  grace  and  propriety.  Offer- 
ings of  flowers  and  game  are  unexceptionable,  and  may  be 
made  even  to  those  whose  position  is  superior  to  that  of  the 
giver. 

Never  refuse  a  present  unless  under  very  exceptional  cir- 
cumstances. However  humble  the  giver,  and  however  poor 
the  gift,  you  should  appreciate  the  goodwill  and  intention, 
and  accept  it  with  kindness  and  thanks.  Never  say  "  I  fear 
I  rob  you,"  or  "  I  am  really  ashamed  to  take  it,"  &c.,  &c. 
Such  deprecatory  phrases  imply  that  you  think  the  bestower 
of  the  gift  cannot  spare  or  afford  it. 

Acknowledge  the  receipt  of  a  present  without  delay. 

Give  a  foreigner  his  name  in  full,  as  Monsieur  de  Vigny — 
never  as  Monsieur  only.  In  speaking  of  him,  give  him  his 
title,  if  he  has  one.  Foreign  noblemen  are  addressed  viva 
voce  as  Monsieur.  In  speaking  of  a  foreign  nobleman  before 
his  face,  say  Monsieur  le  Comte,  or  Monsieur  le  Marquis.  In 
his  absence,  say  Monsieur  le  Comte  de  Vigny. 

Converse  with  a  foreigner  in  his  own  language.  If  not 
competent  to  do  so,  apologize,  and  beg  permission  to  speak 
English. 

To  get  in  and  out  of  a  carriage  gracefully  is  a  simple  but 
important  accomplishment.  If  there  is  but  one  step,  and 
jou  are  going  to  take  your  seat  facing  the  horses,  put  V 


E  TIQ  UE  TTE  FOR  LADIES.  35 

left  foot  on  the  step,  and  enter  the  carriage  with  your  right, 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  drop  at  once  into  your  seat.  If  you 
are  about  to  sit  with  your  back  to  the  horses,  reverse  the 
process.  As  you  step  into  the  carriage,  be  careful  to  keep 
your  back  towards  the  seat  you  are  ibout  to  occupy,  so  as 
to  avoid  the  awkwardness  of  turning  when  you  are  once 
in. 

Members  of  one  family  should  not   converse  together  .in 
aociety. 


I. — INTRODUCTIONS. 

To  introduce  persons  who  are  mutually  unknown  is  to  under- 
take a  serious  responsibility,  and  to  certify  to  each  the  re- 
spectability of  the  other.  Never  undertake  this  responsibility 
without  in  the  first  place  asking  yourself  whether  the  persons 
are  likely  to  be  agreeable  to  each  other ;  nor,  in  the  second 
place,  without  ascertaining  whether  it  will  be  acceptable  to 
both  parties  to  become  acquainted. 

Always  introduce  the  gentleman  to  the  lady — never  the 
lady  to  the  gentleman.  The  chivalry  of  etiquette  assumes 
that  the  lady  is  invariably  the  superior  in  right  of  her  sex,  and 
that  the  gentleman  is  honoured  in  the  introduction.  This 
rule  is  to  be  observed  even  when  the  social  rank  of  the  gentle- 
man is  higher  than  that  of  the  lady. 

Where  the  sexes  are  the  same,  always  present  the  inferior 
to  the  superior. 

Never  present  a  gentleman  to  a  lady  without  first  asking 
her  permission  to  do  so. 

When  you  are  introduced  to  a  lady,  never  offer  your  hand. 
When  introduced,  persons  limit  their  recognition  of  each 
other  to  a  bow.  On  the  Continent,  ladies  never  shake  hands 
with  gentlemen  unless  under  circumstances  of  great  intimacy. 

Never  introduce  morning  visitors  who  happen  to  encounter 
each  other  in  your  rooms,  unless  they  are  persons  whom  you 
have  already  obtained  permission  to  make  known  to  each 
other.  Visitors  thus  casually  meeting  in  the  house  of  a  friend 
should  converse  with  ease  and  freedom,  as  if  they  were  ac- 
quainted. That  they  are  both  friends  of  the  hostess  is  a 
sufficient  guarantee  of  their  respectability.  To  be  silent  and 
stiff  on  such  an  occasion  would  show  much  ignorance  and  ill- 
breeding. 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  37 

Persons  who  have  met  at  the  house  of  a  mutual  friend  with- 
out being  introduced  should  not  bow  if  they  afterwards  meet 
elsewhere.  A  bow  implies  acquaintance  ;  and  persons  who 
have  not  been  introduced  are  not  acquainted. 

If  you  are  walking  with  one  friend,  and  presently  meet 
with,  or  are  joined  by,  a  third,  do  not  commit  the  too  fre- 
quent error  of  introducing  them  to  each  other.  You  have 
even  less  right  to  do  so  than  if  they  encountered  each  other 
at  your  house  during  a  morning  call. 

There  are  some  exceptions  to  the  etiquette  of  introductions. 
At  a  ball,  or  evening  party  where  there  is  dancing,  the  mis- 
tress of  the  house  may  introduce  any  gentleman  to  any  lady 
without  first  asking  the  lady's  permission.  But  she  should 
first  ascertain  whether  the  lady  is  willing  to  dance  ;  and  this 
out  of  consideration  for  the  gentleman,  who  may  otherwise  be 
refused.  No  man  likes  to  be  refused  the  hand  of  a  lady, 
though  it  be  only  for  a  quadrille. 

A  brother  may  present  his  sister,  or  a  father  his  son,  with- 
out any  kind  of  preliminary ;  but  only  when  there  is  no  in- 
feriority on  the  part  of  his  own  family  to  that  of  the  acquaint- 
ance. 

Friends  may  introduce  friends  at  the  house  of  a  mutual 
acquaintance  ;  but,  as  a  rule,  it  is  better  to  be  introduced  by 
the  mistress  of  the  house.  Such  an  introduction  carries  more 
authority  with  it. 

Introductions  at  evening  parties  are  now  almost  wholly  dis- 
pensed with.  Persons  who  meet  at  a  friend's  house  are 
ostensibly  upon  an  equality,  and  pay  a  bad  compliment  to  the 
host  by  appearing  suspicious  and  formal.  Some  old-fashioned 
country  hosts  yet  persevere  in  introducing  each  new  comer  to 
all  the  assembled  guests.  It  is  a  custom  tLat  cannot  be  too 
soon  abolished,  and  one  that  places  the  last  unfortunate  visi- 
tor in  a  singularly  awkward  position.  All  that  he  can  do  is 
to  make  a  semicircular  bow,  like  a  concert  singer  before  an 
audience,  and  bear  the  general  gaze  with  as  much  composure 
as  possible. 

If,  when  you  enter  a  drawing-room,  your  name  has  been 
wrongly  announced,  or  has  passed  unheard  in  the  buzz  of  con- 
versation, make  your  way  at  once  to  the  mistress  of  the  house, 
if  you  are  a  stranger,  and  introduce  yourself  by  name.  This 
should  be  done  with  the  greatest  simplicity,  and  your  profes- 
sional or  titular  rank  made  as  little  of  as  possible. 

An  introduction  given  at  a  ball  for  the  mere  purpose  of 
conducting  a  lady  through  a  dance  does  not  give  the  gentle- 
oian  any  right  to  bow  to  her  on  a  future  occasion.  If  hJ 


38  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

commits  this  error,  he  must  remember  that  she  is  not  bound 
to  see,  or  return,  his  salutation. 


II. — LETTERS  OF  INTRODUCTION. 

Do  Ttct  lightly  give  or  promise  letters  of  introduction. 
Always  remember  that  when  you  give  a  letter  of  introduction 
you  lay  yourself  under  an  obligation  to  the  friend  to  whom  it 
is  addressed.  If  he  lives  in  a  great  city,  such  as  Paris  or 
London,  you  in  a  measure  compel  him  to  undergo  the  penalty 
of  escorting  the  stranger  to  some  of  those  places  of  public  en- 
tertainment in  which  the  capital  abounds.  In  any  case,  you 
put  him  to  the  expense  of  inviting  the  stranger  to  his  table. 
We  cannot  be  too  cautious  how  we  tax  the  time  and  purse  of 
a  friend,  or  weigh  too  seriously  the  question  of  mutual  advan- 
tage in  the  introduction.  Always  ask  yourself  wl. other  the 
person  introduced  will  be  an  acceptable  acquaintance  to  the 
one  to  whom  you  present  him  ;  and  whether  the  pleasure  of 
knowing  him  will  compensate  for  the  time  or  money  which  it 
costs  to  entertain  him.  If  the  stranger  is  in  any  way  unsuit- 
able in  habits  or  temperament,  you  inflict  an  annoyance  on 
your  friend  instead  of  a  pleasure.  In  questions  of  introduction 
never  oblige  one  friend  to  the  discomfort  of  another. 

Those  to  whom  letters  of  introduction  have  been  given 
should  send  them  to  the  person  to  whom  they  are  addressed, 
and  enclose  a  card.  Never  deliver  a  letter  of  introduction  in 
person.  It  places  you  in  the  most  undignified  position  imagin- 
able, and  compels  you  to  wait  while  it  is  being  read,  like  a 
footman  who  has  been  told  to  wait  for  an  answer.  There  is 
also  another  reason  why  you  should  not  be  yourself  the  bearer 
of  your  introduction  ;  i.e.,  you  compel  the  other  person  to  re- 
ceive you,  whether  he  chooses  or  not.  It  may  be  that  he  is 
sufficiently  ill-bred  to  take  no  notice  of  the  letter  when  sent, 
and  in  such  case,  if  you  presented  yourself  with  it,  he  would 
most  probably  receive  you  with  rudeness.  It  is,  r.t  all  events, 
more  polite  on  your  part  to  give  him  the  option,  ar.d  perhaps 
more  pleasant.  If  the  receiver  of  the  letter  be  a  really  well- 
bred  person,  he  will  call  upon  you  or  leave  his  card  the  next 
day,  and  you  should  return  his  attentions  within  the  week. 

If,  on  the  other  hand,  a  stranger  sends  you  a  letter  of  intro- 
duction and  his  card,  you  are  bound  by  the  laws  of  politeness 
and  hospitality,  not  only  to  call  upon  him  the  next  day,  but 
to  follow  up  that  attention  with  others.  If  you  are  in  a 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  & 

position  to  do  so,  the  most  correct  proceeding  is  to  invite  him 
to  dine  with  you.  Should  this  not  be  within  your  power, 
you  have  probably  the  entrte  to  some  private  collections,  club- 
houses, theatres,  or  reading-rooms,  'and  could  devote  a  few 
hours  to  showing  him  these  places.  If  you  are  but  a  clerk  in 
a  bank,  remember  that  only  to  go  over  the  Bank  of  England 
would  be  interesting  to  a  foreigner  or  provincial  visitor.  In 
short,  etiquette  demands  that  you  shall  exert  yourself  to  show 
kindness  to  the  stranger,  if  only  out  of  compliment  to  the 
friend  who  introduced  him  to  you. 

If  you  invite  him  to  dine  with  you,  it  is  a  better  compli- 
ment to  ask  soms  others  to  meet  him,  than  to  dine  with  him 
tcte-a-tete.  You  are  thereby  giving  him  an  opportunity  of 
making  other  acquaintances,  and  are  assisting  your  friend  in 
still  further  promoting  the  purpose  for  which  he  gave  him  the 
introduction  to  yourself. 

Be  careful  at  the  same  time  only  to  ask  such  persons  as  he 
will  feel  are  at  least  his  own  social  equals. 

A  letter  of  introduction  should  be  given  unsealed,  not  alone 
because  your  friend  may  wish  to  know  what  you  have  said  of 
him,  but  also  as  a  guarantee  of  your  own  good  faith.  As  you 
should  never  give  such  a  letter  unless  you  can  speak  highly  of 
the  bearer,  this  rule  of  etiquette  is  easy  to  observe.  By  re- 
questing your  friend  to  fasten  the  envelope  before  forwarding 
the  letter  to  its  destination,  you  tacitly  give  him  permission  to 
inspect  its  contents. 

Let  your  note  paper  be  of  the  best  quality  and  the  proper 
size.  Albert  or  Queen's  size  is  the  best  for  these  purposes. 

It  has  been  well  said  that  "  attention  to  the  punctilios  of 
politeness  is  a  proof  at  once  of  self-respect,  and  of  respect  for 
your  friend."  Though  irksome  at  first,  these  trifles  soon 
cease  to  be  matters  for  memory,  and  become  things  of  mere 
habit.  To  the  thoroughly  well-bred,  they  are  a  second  nature. 
Let  no  one  neglect  them  who  is  desirous  of  pleasing  in 
society  ;  and,  above  all,  let  no  one  deem  them  unworthy  of  a 
wise  man's  attention.  They  are  precisely  the  trifles  which  do 
most  to  make  social  intercourse  agreeable,  and  a  knowledge 
of  which  distinguishes  the  gentleman  from  the  boor. 


'111.— VISITING.— MORNING  CALLS. — CARDS, 

A  morning  visit  should  be  paid  between  the  hours  of  two 
tnd  four  p.m.,  in  winter,  and  two  and  five  in  summer.     By 


40  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

observing  this  rule  you  avoid  intruding  before  the  luncheon  a 
removed,  and  leave  in  sufficient  time  to  allow  the  lady  of  the 
house  an  hour  or  two  of  leisure  for  her  dinner  toilette. 

Be  careful  always  to  avoid  luncheon  hours  when  you  pay 
morning  visits.  Some  ladies  dine  with  their  children  at  half- 
past  one,  and  are  consequently  unprepared  for  the  early  re- 
ception of  visitors.  When  you  have  once  ascertained  this  to 
be  the  case,  be  careful  never  again  to  intrude  at  the  same 
hour. 

A  good  memory  for  these  trifles  is  one  of  the  hall-marks  cf 
good  breeding. 

Visits  of  ceremony  should  be  short.  If  even  the  conversa- 
tion should"  have  become  animated,  beware  of  letting  your  call 
exceed  half-an -hour's  length.  It  is  always  better  to  let  your 
friends  regret  than  desire  your  withdrawal. 

On  returning  visits  of  ceremony  you  may,  without  impolite- 
ness, leave  your  card  at  the  door  without  going  in.  Do  not 
fail,  however,  to  inquire  if  the  family  be  well. 

Should  there  be  daughters  or  sisters  residing  with  the  lady 
upon  whom  you  call,  you  may  turn  down  a  corner  of  your 
card,  to  signify  that  the  visit  is  paid  to  all.  It  is  in  better 
taste,  however,  to  leave  cards  for  each. 

Unless  when  returning  thanks  for  "  kind  inquiries,"  or  an- 
Founcing  your  arrival  in,  or  departure  from,  town,  it  is  not 
Jonsidered  respectful  to  send  round  cards  by  a  servant. 

Leave-taking  cards  have  P.P.C.  (pour prendre conge}  writ- 
ten in  the  comer.  Some  use  P.D.  A.  (pour  dire  adieu). 

It  is  not  the  fashion  on  the  Continent  for  gentlemen  to 
affix  Monsieur  to  their  cards,  j/ules  Achard,  or  Paolo  Beiii, 
looks  more  simple  and  elegant  than  if  preceded  by  Monsieur, 
or  Monsieur  le  Comte.  Some  English  gentlemen  have 
adopted  this  good  custom,  and  it  would  be  well  if  it  became 
general. 

Autographic  facsimiles  for  visiting  cards  are  affectations  in 
any  persons  but  those  who  are  personally  remarkable  for  talent 
and  whose  autographs,  or  facsimiles  of  them,  would  be  prized 
as  curiosities.  A  card  bearing  the  autographic  signature  of 
Charles  Dickens  or  George  Cruikshank,  though  only  a  litho- 
graphic facsimile,  would  have  a  certain  interest ;  whereas  the 
signature  of  John  Smith  would  be  not  only  valueless,  but 
would  make  the  owner  ridiculous. 

The  visiting  cards  of  gentlemen  are  half  the  size  of  those 
used  by  ladi»s. 

Visits  of  condolence  are  paid  within  the  week  after  the 
event  which  occasions  them.  Personal  visits  of  this  kind  are 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  41 

made  by  relations  and  very  intimate  friends  only.     Acquaint- 
ances should  leave  cards  with  narrow  mourning  borders. 

On  the  first  occasion  when  you  are  received  by  the  family 
after  the  death  of  one  of  its  members,  it  is  etiquette  to  wear 
slight  mourning. 

When  a  gentleman  makes  a  morning  call,  he  should  never 
leave  his  hat  or  riding-whip  in  the  hall,  but  should  take  both 
into  the  room.  To  do  otherwise  would  be  to  make  himself 
too  much  at  home.  The  hat,  however,  must  never  be  laid  on 
a  table,  piano,  or  any  article  of  furniture ;  it  should  be  held 
gracefully  in  the  hand.  If  you  are  compelled  to  lay  it  aside, 
put  it  on  the  floor. 

Umbrellas  should  invariably  be  left  in  the  hall. 

Never  take  favourite  dogs  into  a  drawing-room  when  you 
make  a  morning  call.  Their  feet  may  be  dusty,  or  they  may 
bark  at  the  sight  of  strangers,  or,  being  of  too  friendly  a  dis- 
position, may  take  the  liberty  of  lying  on  a  lady's  gown,  or 
jumping  on  the  sofas  and  easy  chairs.  Where  your  friend  has 
a  favourite  cat  already  established  before  the  fire,  a  battle 
may  ensue,  and  one  or  other  of  the  pets  be  seriously  hurt. 
Besides,  many  persons  have  a  constitutional  antipathy  to  dogs, 
and  others  never  allow  their  own  to  be  seen  in  the  sitting- 
rooms.  For  all  or  any  of  these  reasons,  a  visitor  has  no  right 
to  inflict  upon  his  friend  the  society  of  his  dog  as  well  as  of 
himself. 

If,  when  you  call  upon  a  lady,  you  meet  a  lady  visitor  in 
her  drawing-room,  you  should  rise  when  that  lady  takes  her 
leave,  and  escort  her  to  her  carriage,  taking  care,  however,  to 
return  again  to  the  drawing-room,  though  it  be  only  for  a  few 
minutes,  before  taking  your  own  leave.  Not  to  do  this  would 
give  you  the  appearance  of  accompanying  the  lady  visitor  ;  or 
might,  at  all  events,  look  as  if  the  society  of  your  hostess  were 
insufficient  to  entertain  you  when  her  friend  had  departed. 

If  other  visitors  are  announced,  and  you  have  already  re- 
mained as  long  as  courtesy  requires,  wait  till  they  are  seated, 
and  then  rise  from  your  chair,  take  leave  of  your  hostess,  and 
bow  politely  to  the  newly  arrived  guests.  You  will,  perhaps, 
be  urged  to  remain,  but,  having  once  risen,  it  is  always  best  to 
go.  There  is  always  a  certain  air  of  gaitcherie  in  resuming 
your  seat  and  repeating  the  ceremony  of  leave-taking. 

If  you  have  occasion  to  look  at  your  watch  during  a  call, 
ask  permission  to  do  so,  and  apologise  for  it  on  the  plea  of 
other  appointments. 


4*  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEtf. 


IV. — CONVERSATION, 

Let  your  conversation  be  adapted  as  skilfully  as  may  be  to 
your  company.  Some  men  make  a  point  of  talking  common- 
places to  all  ladies  alike,  as  if  a  woman  could  only  be  a  trifler. 
Others,  on  the  contrary,  seem  to  forget  in  what  respects  the 
education  of  a  lady  differs  from  that  of  a  gentleman,  and  com- 
mit the  opposite  error  of  conversing  on  topics  with  which 
ladies  are  seldom  acquainted.  A  woman  of  sense  has  as  much 
right  to  be  annoyed  by  th'e  one,  as  a  lady  of  ordinary  educa- 
tion by  the  other.  You  cannot  pay  a  finer  compliment  to  a 
woman  of  refinement  and  esprit  than  by  leading  the  conversa- 
tion into  such  a  channel  as  may  mark  your  appreciation  of  her 
superior  attainments. 

In  talking  with  ladies  of  ordinary  education,  avoid  political, 
scientific,  or  commercial  topics,  and  choose  only  such  subjects 
as  are  likely  to  be  of  interest  to  them. 

Remember  that  people  take  more  interest  in  their  own 
affairs  than  in  anything  else  which  you  can  name.  If  you  wish 
your  conversation  to  be  thoroughly  agreeable,  lead  a  mother 
to  talk  of  her  children,  a  young  lady  of  her  last  ball,  an. author 
of  his  forthcoming  book,  or  an  artist  of  his  exhibition  picture. 
Having  furnished  the  topic,  you  need  only  listen  ;  and  you 
are  sure  to  be  thought  not  only  agreeable,  but  thoroughly  sen- 
sible and  well-informed. 

Be  careful,  however,  on  the  other  hand,  not  always  to  make 
a  point  of  talking  to  persons  upon  general  matters  relating  to 
their  professions.  To  show  an  interest  in  their  immediate 
concerns  is  flattering ;  but  to  converse  with  them  too  much 
about  their  own  arts  looks  as  if  you  thought  them  ignorant  of 
other  topics. 

Do  not  use  a  classical  quotation  in  the  presence  of  ladies 
without  apologising  for,  or  translating  it.  Even  this  should 
only  be  done  when  no  other  phrase  would  ?o  aptly  express 
your  meaning.  Whether  in  the  presence  of  ladies  or  gentle- 
men, much  display  of  learning  is  pedantic  and  out  of  place. 

There  is  a  certain  distinct  but  subdued  tone  of  voice  which 
is  peculiar  to  only  well-bred  persons.  A  loud  voice  is  both 
disagreeable  and  vulgar.  It  is  better  to  err  by  the  use  oi  loo 
low  than  too  loud  a  tone. 

Remember  that  all  "slang"  is  vulgar.  It  has  become  of 
late  unfortunately  prevalent,  and  we  have  known  even  Indies 
pride  themselves  on  the  saucy  chique  with  which  they  adopt 
certain  Americanisms,  and  other  cant  phrases  of  the  day. 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  4$ 

Such  habits  cannot  be  too  severely  reprehended.  They  lower 
the  tone  of  society  and  the'standard  of  thought.  It  is  a  great 
mistake  to  suppose  that  slang  is  in  any  way  a  substitute  for 
wit. 

The  use  of  proverbs  is  equally  vulgar  in  couversation  ;  and 
puns,  unless  they  rise  to  the  rank  of  witticisms,  are  to  be 
scrupulously  avoided.  There  is  no  greater  nuisance  in  society 
than  a  dull  and  persevering  punster. 

Long  arguments  in  general  company,  however  entertaining 
to  the  disputants,  are  tiresome  to  the  last  degree  to  all  others. 
You  should  always  endeavour  to  prevent  the  conversation  from 
dwelling  too  long  upon  one  topic. 

Religion  is  a  topic  which  should  never  be  introduced  in 
society.  It  is  the  one  subject  on  which  persons  are  most 
likely  to  differ,  and  least  able  to  preserve  temper. 

Never  interrupt  a  person  who  is  speaking.  It  has  been 
aptly  said  that  "if  you  interrupt  a  speaker  in  the  middle  of 
his  sentence,  you  act  almost  as  rudely  as  if,  when  walking 
with  a  companion,  you  were  to  thrust  yourself  before  him, 
and  stop  his  progress." 

To  listen  well,  is  almost  as  great  an  art  as  to  talk  well. 
It  is  not  enough  only  to  listen.  You  must  endeavour  to 
seem  interested  in  the  conversation  of  others. 

It  is  considered  extremely  ill-bred  when  two  persons  whis- 
per in  society,  or  converse  in  a  language  with  which  all  pre- 
sent are  not  familiar.  If  you  have  private  matters  to  discuss, 
you  should  appoint  a  proper  time  and  place  to  do  so,  with- 
out paying  others  the  ill  compliment  of  excluding  them  from 
your  conversation. 

If  a  foreigner  be  one  of  the  guests  at  a  small  party,  and 
does  not  understand  English  sufficiently  to  follow  what  is 
said,  good-breeding  demands  that  conversation  shall  be  car- 
ried on  in  his  own  language.  If  at  a  dinner-party,  the  same 
rule  applies  to  those  at  his  end  of  the  table. 

If  upon  the  entrance  of  a  visitor  you  carry  on  the  thread  of 
a  previous  conversation,  you  should  briefly  recapitulate  to 
him  what  has  been  said  before  he  arrived. 

Do  not  be  always  witty,  even  though  you  should  be  so 
happily  gifted  as  to  need  the  caution.  To  outshine  others 
on  every  occasion  is  the  surest  road  to  unpopularity. 

Always  look,  but  never  stare,  at  those  with  whom  you  con- 
verse. 

In  order  to  meet  the  general  needs  of  conversation  in 
society,  it  is  necessary  that  a  man  should  be  well  acquainted 


44  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

with  the  current  news  and  historical  events  of  at  least  th« 
last  few  years. 

Never  talk  upon  subjects  of  which  you  know  nothing,  un- 
less it  be  for  the  purpose  of  acquiring  information.  Many 
young  men  imagine  that  because  they  frequent  exhibitions 
and  operas  they  are  qualified  judges  or  art.  No  mistake  is 
more  egregious  or  universal. 

Those  who  introduce  anecdotes  into  their  conversation  are 
warned  that  these  should  invariably  be  "short,  witty,  elo- 
quent, new,  and  not  far-fetched." 

Scandal  is  the  least  excusable  of  all  conversational  vulgari- 
ties. 

In  conversing  with  a  man  of  rank,  do  not  too  frequently 
give  him  his  title.  Only  a  servant  interlards  every  sentence 
with  "my  Lord,"  or  "my  Lady."  It  is,  however,  well  to 
show  that  you  remember  his  station  by  now  and  then  intro- 
ducing some  such  phrase  as — "  I  think  I  have  already  men- 
tioned to  your  Lordship  " — or,  "  I  believe  your  Grace  was 
observing  "...  In  general,  however,  you  should  address  a 
nobleman  as  you  would  any  other  gentleman.  The  Prince  of 
Wales  himself  is  only  addressed  as  "Sir,"  in  conversation, 
and  the  Queen  as  "Madam." 


V. — NOTES  OF  INVITATION,  &c. 

Notes  of  invitation  and  acceptance  are  written  in  the  third 
person  and  the  simplest  style.  The  old-fashioned  preliminary 
of  "presenting  compliments"  is  discontinued  by  the  most 
elegant  letter-writers. 

All  notes  of  invitation  are  now  issued  in  the  name  of  the 
mistress  of  the  house  only,  as  follows  : — 

"  Mrs.  Norman  requests  the  honpur  of  Sir  George  and  Lady  Thur- 
low's  company  at  an  evening  party,  on  Monday,  i4th  of  June." 

Others  prefer  the  subjoined  form,  which  is  purchaseable 
ready  printed  upon  either  cards  or  note-paper,  with  blanks 
for  names  or  dates  : — 

"Mrs.  Norman, 

"  At  home, 
"Monday  evening,  June  I4th  inst" 

An  "At  home"  is,  however,  considered  somewhat  less 
stately  than  an  evening  party,  and  partakes  more  of  the  cha- 
racter  of  a  conversazione. 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  45 

The  reply  to  a  npte  of  invitation  should  be  couched  as  fol- 
lows : — 

"  Mr.  Berkeley  has  much  pleasure  in  accepting  Mrs.  Norman's  polite 
invitation  for  Monday  evening,  June  the  i4th  inst." 

Never  "  avail "  yourself  of  an  invitation.  Above  all,  never 
speak  or  write  of  an  invitation  as  "an  invite."  It  is  neither 
good  breeding  nor  good  English. 

Notes  of  invitation  and  reply  should  be  written  on  small 
paper  of  the  best  quality,  and  enclosed  in  envelopes  to  corre- 
spond. 

A  gentleman  should  never  use  sealing-wax  of  any  colour 
but  red,  nor  paper  of  any  hue  but  white.  Fancy  papers,  fan- 
tastic borders,  dainty  coloured  wax,  and  the  like  elegant 
follies,  are  only  admissible  in  the  desk  of  a  lady. 

Never  omit  the  address  and  date  from  any  letter,  whether 
of  business,  friendship,  or  ceremony. 

Letters  in  the  first  person,  addressed  to  strangers,  should 
begin  with  "  Sir,"  or  "  Madam,"  and  end  with  "  I  have  the 
honour  to  be  your  very  obedient  servant."  Some  object  to 
this  form  of  words  from  a  mistaken  sense  of  pride  ;  but  it  is 
merely  a  form,  and,  rightly  apprehended,  evinces  a  "  proud 
humility,"  which  implies  more  condescension  than  a  less  for- 
mal phrase. 

At  the  end  of  your  letter,  at  some  little  distance  below 
your  signature,  and  in  the  left  corner  of  your  paper,  write  the 
name  of  the  person  to  whom  your  letter  is  addressed  ;  as  "  Sir 
James  Dalhousie,"  or  "  Edward  Munroe,  Esquire." 

It  is  more  polite  to  write  Esquire  at  full  length  than  to  cur- 
tail it  to  Esq. 

In  writing  to  persons  much  your  superior  or  inferior,  use  as 
few  words  as  possible.  In  the  former  case,  to  take  up  much 
of  a  great  man's  time  is  to  take  a  liberty ;  in  the  latter  to  be 
diffuse  is  to  be  too  familiar.  It  is  only  in  familiar  correspond- 
ence that  long  letters  are  permissible. 

In  writing  to  a  tradesman,  begin  your  letter  by  addressing 
him  by  name,  as  — 

"Mr.  Jones,— Sir." 

A  letter  thus  begun  may,  with  propriety,  be  ended  with — 

"Sir,  yours  truly." 

Letters  to  persons  whom  you  meet  frequently  in  society, 
without  having  arrived  at  intimacy,  may  commence  with 
"  Dear  Sir,"  and  end  with  "  I  am,  dear  Sir,  yours  very 
truly." 

Letters  commencing  "My  dear  Sir>"  addressed  to  persons 


46  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

whom  you  appreciate,  and  with  whom  you  are  on  friendly 
terms,  may  end  with  "  I  am,  my  dear  Sir,  yours  very  faith- 
fully," or  "yours  very  sincerely." 

To  be  prompt  in  replying  to  a  letter  is  to  be  polite. 


VI. — THE  PROMENADE. 

A  well-bred  man  must  entertain  no  respect  for  the  brim  of 
his  hat.  "  A  bow,"  says  La  Fontaine,  "  is  a  note  drawn  at 
sight."  You  are  bound  to  acknowledge  it  immediately,  and 
to  the  full  amount.  The  two  most  elegant  men  of  their  day, 
Charles  the  Second  and  George  the  Fourth,  never  failed  to 
take  off  their  hats  to  the  meanest  of  their  subjects.  Always 
bear  this  example  in  mind  ;  and  remember  that  to  nod,  or 
merely  to  touch  the  brim  of  the  hat,  is  far  from  courteous. 
True  politeness  demands  that  the  hat  should  be  quite  lifted 
from  the  head. 

On  meeting  friends  with  whom  you  are  likely  to  shake 
hands,  remove  your  hat  with  the  left  hand  in  order  to  leave 
the  right  hand  free. 

If  you  meet  a  lady  in  the  street  whom  you  are  sufficiently 
intimate  to  address,  do  not  stop  her,  but  turn  round  and  walk 
beside  her  in  whichever  direction  she  is  going.  When  you 
have  said  all  that  you  wish  to  say,  you  can  take  your  leave. 

If  you  meet  a  lady  with  whom  you  are  not  particularly  well 
acquainted,  wait  for  her  recognition  before  you  venture  to  bow 
to  her. 

In  bowing  to  a  lady  whom  you  are  not  going  to  address, 
lift  your  hat  with  that  hand  which  is  farthest  from  her.  For 
instance,  if  you  pass  her  on  the  right  side,  use  your  left  hand ; 
if  on  the  left,  use  your  right. 

If  you  are  on  horseback  and  wish  to  converse  with  a  lady 
•who  is  on  foot,  you  must  dismount  and  lead  your  horse,  so  as 
not  to  give  her  the  fatigue  of  looking  up  to  your  level.  Neither 
should  you  subject  her  to  the  impropriety  of  carrying  on  a 
conversation  in  a  tone  necessarily  louder  than  is  sanctioned  in 
public  by  the  laws  of  good  breeding. 

When  you  meet  friends  or  acquaintances  in  the  streets,  the 
exhibitions,  or  any  public  places,  take  care  not  to  pronounce 
their  names  so  loudly  as  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  passers- 
by.  Never  call  across  the  street :  and  never  carry  on  a  dia- 
logue in  a  public  vehicle,  unless  your  interlocutor  occupief 
the  seat  beside  your  own. 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  47 

In  walking  with  a  lady,  take  charge  of  any  small  parcel, 
parasol,  or  book  with  which  she  may  be  encumbered. 

If  you  so  far  forget  what  is  elegant  as  to  smoke  in  the  street, 
rvt  least  never  omit  to  fling  away  your  cigar  if  you  speak  to  a 
iady. 


VII.— D  R  E  S  S. 

A  great  French  writer  has  said,  with  as  much  grace  as 
philosophy,  that  the  artist  and  man  of  letters  needs  only  a 
black  coat  and  the  absence  of  all  pretension  to  place  him  on 
the  level  of  the  best  society.  It  must  be  observed,  however, 
that  this  remark  applies  only  to  the  intellectual  workers,  who, 
if  they  do  occasionally  commit  a  minor  solecism  in  dress  or 
manners,  a*e  forgiven  on  account  of  their  fame  and  talents. 
Other  individuals  are  compelled  to  study  what  we  have  else- 
where called  the  "by-laws  of  society;"  and  it  would  be  well 
if  artists  and  men  of  letters  would  more  frequently  do  the 
same.  It  is  not  enough  that  a  man  should  be  clever,  or  well 
educated,  or  well  born  ;  to  take  his  place  in  society  he  must 
be  acquainted  with  all  that  this  little  book  proposes  to  teach. 
He  must,  above  all  else,  know  how  to  enter  the  room,  how  to 
bow,  and  how  to  dress.  Of  these  three  indispensable  qualifi- 
cations, the  most  important,  because  the  most  observed,  is  the 
latter. 

A  gentleman  should  always  be  so  well  dressed  that  his 
dress  shall  never  be  observed  at  all.  Does  this  sound  like  an 
enigma?  It  is'not  meant  for  one.  It  only  implies  that  perfect 
simplicity  is  perfect  elegance,  and  that  the  true  test  of  taste  in 
the  toilette  of  a  gentleman  is  its  entire  harmony,  unobtrusive- 
ness  and  becomingness.  If  any  friend  should  say  to  you, 
"  What  a  handsome  waistcoat  you  have  on !"  you  may  depend, 
that  a  less  handsome  waistcoat  would  be  in  better  taste.  If 
you  hear  it  said  that  Mr.  So-and-So  wears  superb  jewellery, 
you  may  conclude  beforehand  that  he  wears  too  much.  Dis- 
play, in  short,  is  ever  to  be  avoided,  especially  in  matters  of 
dress.  The  toilette  is  the  domain  of  the  fair  sex.  Let  a  wise 
man  leave  its  graces  and  luxuries  to  his  wife,  daughters  or 
sisters,  and  seek  to  be  himself  appreciated  for  something  of 
higher  worth  than  the  embroidery  upon  his  shirt  front,  or  the 
trinkets  on  his  chain. 

To  be  too  much  in  the  fashion  is  as  vulgar  as  to  be  too  far 
Behind  it,  No  really  well-bred  row  foll9w§  every  ne-^r  cut 


48  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

that  he  sees  in  his  tailor's  fashion-book.  Only  very  young 
men,  and  those  not  of  the  most  aristocratic  circles,  are  guilty 
of  this  folly. 

The  author  of  "  Pelham"  has  aptly  said  that  a  gentleman's 
coat  should  not  fit  too  well.  There  is  great  truth  and  subtlety 
in  this  observation.  To  be  fitted  too  well  is  to  look  like  a 
tailor's  assistant.  This  is  the  great  fault  which  we  have  to 
find  in  the  style  of  even  the  best  bred  Frenchmen.  They  look 
as  if  they  had  just  stepped  out  of  a  fashion-book,  and  lack  the 
careless  ease  which  makes  an  English  gentleman  look  as  if  his 
clothes  belonged  to  him,  and  not  he  to  his  clothes. 

In  the  morning  wear  frock  coats,  double-breasted  waist- 
coats, and  trousers  of  light  or  dark  colours,  according  to  the 
season. 

In  the  evening,  though  only  in  the  bosom  of  your  own 
family,  wear  only  black,  and  be  as  scrupulous  to  put  on  a 
dress  coat  as  if  you  expected  visitors.  If  you  have  sons, 
bring  them  up  to  do  the  same.  It  is  the  observance  of  these 
minor  trifles  in  domestic  etiquette  which  marks  the  true 
gentleman. 

For  evening  parties,  dinner  parties,  and  balls,  wear  a  black 
dress  coat,  black  trousers,  black  silk  or  cloth  waistcoat,  white 
cravat,  white  or  grey  kid  gloves,  and  thin  patent  leather  boots. 
A  black  cravat  may  be  worn  in  full  dress,  but  is  not  so  elegant 
as  a  white  one.  A  black  velvet  waistcoat  should  only  be  worn 
at  a  dinner  party. 

Let  your  jewellery  be  of  the  best,  but  the  least  gaudy 
description,  and  wear  it  very  sparingly.  A  set  of  good  studs, 
a  gold  watch  and  guard,  and  one  handsome  ring,  are  as  many 
ornaments  as  a  gentleman  can  wear  with  propriety.  In  the 
morning  let  your  ring  be  a  seal  ring,  with  your  crest  or  arms 
engraved  upon  it.  In  the  evening  it  may  be  a  diamond. 
Your  studs,  however  valuable,  should  be  small. 

It  is  well  to  remember  in  the  choice  of  jewellery  that  mere 
costliness  is  not  always  the  test  of  value ;  and  that  an  exquisite 
•work  of  art,  such  as  a  fine  cameo,  or  a  natural  rarity,  such  as 
a  black  pearl,  is  a  more  distingue  possession  than  a  large 
brilliant  which  any  rich  and  tasteless  vulgarian  can  buy  as 
easily  as  yourself.  For  a  ring,  the  gentleman  of  fine  taste 
would  prefer  a  precious  antique  intaglio  to  the  handsomest 
diamond  or  ruby  that  could  be  brought  at  Hunt  and  Roskell's. 
The  most  elegant  gentleman  with  whom  the  author  was  ever 
acquainted — a  man  familiar  with  all  the  Courts  of  Europe — 
never  wore  any  other  shirt-studs  in  full  dress  than  three 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  49 

Taluable  black  pearls,  each  about  the  size  of  a  pea,  and  by  no 
means  beautiful  to  look  at. 

Of  all  precious  stones,  the  opal  is  one  of  the  most  lovely 
and  the  least  common-place.  No  vulgar  man  purchases  an 
opal.  lie  invariably  prefers  the  more  showy  diamond,  ruby, 
sapphire,  or  emerald. 

Unless  you  are  a  snuff-taker,  never  carry  any  but  a  white 
pocket-handkerchief. 

If  in  the  morning  you  wear  a  long  cravat  fastened  by  a  pin, 
be  careful  to  avoid  what  may  be  called  alliteration  of  colour. 
We  have  seen  a  torquoise  pin  worn  in  a  violet-coloured 
cravat,  and  the  effect  was  frightful.  Choose,  if  possible,  com- 
plementary colours,  and  their  secondaries.  For  instance,  if 
the  stone  in  your  pin  be  a  torquoise,  wear  it  with  brown,  or 
crimson  mixed  with  black,  or  black  and  orange.  If  a  ruby, 
contrast  it  with  shades  of  green.  The  same  rule  holds  good 
with  regard  to  the  mixture  and  contrast  of  colours  in  your 
waistcoat  or  cravat.  Thus,  a  buff  waistcoat  and  a  blue  tie,  or 
brown  and  blue,  or  brown  and  green,  or  brown  and  magenta, 
green  and  magenta,  green  and  mauve,  are  all  good  arrange- 
ments of  colour. 

Very  light  coloured  cloths  for  morning  wear  are  to  be 
avoided,  even  in  the  height  of  summer  ;  and  fancy  cloths  of 
strange  patterns  and  mixtures  are  exceedingly  objectionable. 

Coloured  shirts  may  be  worn  in  the  morning ;  but  they 
should  be  small  in  pattern,  and  quiet  in  colour. 

With  a  coloured  shirt,  always  wear  a  white  collar. 

Never  wear  a  cap,  unless  in  the  fields  or  garden  ;  and  let 
your  hat  be  always  black. 

For  a  gentleman's  wedding  dress  see  the  "  ETIQUETTE  OF 
COURTSHIP  AND  MARRIAGE.  " 

If  your  sight  compels  you  to  wear  spectacles,  let  them  be  of 
the  best  and  lightest  make,  and  mounted  in  gold  or  blue  steel. 

If  you  suffer  from  weak  sight,  and  are  obliged  to  wear 
coloured  glasses,  let  them  be  of  blue  or  smoke  colour.  Green 
are  detestable. 

Never  be  seen  in  the  street  without  gloves  ;  and  never  let 
your  gloves  be  of  any  material  that  is  not  kid  or  calf.  Worsted 
or  cotton  gloves  are  unutterably  vulgar.  Your  gloves  should 
fit  to  the  last  degree  of  perfection. 

In  these  days  of  public  baths  and  universal  progress,  we 
trust  that  it  is  unnecessary  to  do  more  than  hint  at  the  neces- 
sity of  the  most  fastidious  personal  cleanliness.  The  hair,  the 
teeth,  the  nails,  should  be  faultlessly  kept ;  and  a  soiled  shirt, 
«  dingy  pocket-handkerchief,  or  a  light  waistcoat*  that  has  been 

4 


56  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

worn  once  too  often,  are  things  to  be  scrupulously  avoided  by 
any  man  who  is  ambitious  of  preserving  the  exterior  of  a  gentle- 
man. 


VIII.— RIDING  AND  DRIVING. 

In  riding,  as  in  walking,  give  the  lady  the  wall. 

If  you  assist  a  lady  to  mount,  hold  your  hand  at  a  conve- 
nient distance  from  the  ground,  that  she  may  place  her  foot  in 
it.  As  she  springs,  you  aid  her  by  the  impetus  of  your  hand. 

In  doing  this,  it  is  always  better  to  agree  upon  a  signal,  that 
her  spring  and  your  assistance  may  come  at  the  same  moment. 

For  this  purpose  there  is  no  better  form  than  the  old  duel- 
ling one  of  "one,  two,  three.  " 

When  the  lady  is  in  the  saddle,  it  is  your  place  to  find  the 
stirrup  for  her,  and  guide  her  left  foot  to  it.  When  this  is 
done,  she  rises  in  her  seat  and  you  assist  her  to  draw  her 
babit  straight. 

Even  when  a  groom  is  present,  it  is  more  polite  for  the 
gentleman  himself  to  perform  this  office  for  his  fair  com- 
panion ;  as  it  would  be  more  polite  for  him  to  hand  her  a 
chair  than  to  have  it  handed  by  a  servant. 

If  the  lady  be  light,  you  must  take  care  not  to  give  her 
too  much  impetus  in  mounting.  We  have  known  a  lady 
nearly  thrown  over  her  horse  by  a  misplaced  zeal  of  this 
kind. 

In  riding  with  a  lady,  never  permit  her  to  pay  the  tolls. 

If  a  gate  has  to  be  opened,  we  need  hardly  observe  that  it 
is  your  place  to  hold  it  open  till  the  lady  has  passed  through. 

In  driving,  a  gentleman  places  himself  with  his  back  to 
the  horses,  and  leaves  the  best  seat  for  the  ladies. 

If  you  are  alone  in  a  carriage  with  a  lady,  never  sit  beside 
her,  unless  you  are  her  husband,  father,  son,  or  brother. 
Even  though  you  be  her  affianced  lover,  you  should  still  ob- 
serve this  rule  of  etiquette.  To  do  otherwise,  would  be  to 
assume  the  unceremonious  air  of  a  husband. 

When  the  carriage  stops,  the  gentleman  should  alight  first, 
in  order  to  assist  the  lady. 

To  get  in  and  out  of  a  carriage  gracefully  is  a  simple  but 
important  accomplishment.  If  there  is  but  one  step,  and 
you  are  going  to  take  your  seat  facing  the  horses,  put  your 
left  foot  on  the  step  and  enter  the  carriage  with  your  right 


QUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN".  51 

in  such  a  manner  as  to  drop  at  once  into  your  seat.  If  yo« 
are  about  to  sit  with  your  back  to  the  horses,  reverse  the 
process.  As  you  step  into  the  carriage,  be  careful  to  keep 
your  back  towards  the  seat  you  are  about  to  occupy,  so  as  to 
avoid  the  awkwardness  of  turning  when  you  are  once  in. 

A  gentleman  cannot  be  too  careful  to  avoid  stepping  on 
ladies'  dresses  when  he  gets  in  or  out  of  a  carriage.  He 
should  also  beware  of  shutting  them  in  with  the  door. 


IX.— MORNING  AND  EVENING  PARTIES. 

The  morning  party  is  a  modern  invention ;  it  was  unknown 
to  our  fathers  and  mothers,  and  even  to  ourselves,  till  quite 
lately.  A  morning  party  is  seldom  given  out  of  the  season — • 
that  is  to  say,  during  any  months  except  those  of  May,  June, 
and  July.  It  begins  about  two  o'clock  and  ends  about  five, 
and  the  entertainment  consists  for  the  most  part  of  conversa- 
tion, music,  and  (if  there  be  a  garden)  croquet,  lawn  billiards, 
archery,  &c.  "Aunt  Sally"  is  now  out  of  fashion.  The 
refreshments  are  given  in  the  form  of  a  dejeilner  a  la  four- 
chelte. 

Elegant  morning  dress,  general  good  manners,  and  some 
acquaintance  with  the  topics  of  the  day  and  the  games  above 
named,  are  all  the  qualifications  especially  necessary  to  a 
gentleman  at  a  morning  party. 

An  evening  party  begins  about  nine  o'clock,  p.m.,  and 
ends  about  midnight,  or  somewhat  later.  Good  breeding 
neither  demands  that  you  should  present  yourself  at  the  com- 
mencement, nor  remain  till  the  close  of  the  evening.'  You 
come  and  go  as  may  be  most  convenient  to  you,  and  by  these 
means  are  at  liberty,  during  the  height  of  the  season  when 
evening  parties  are  numerous,  to  present  yourself  at  two  or 
three  houses  during  a  single  evening. 

Always  put  your  gloves  on  before  entering  the  drawing- 
room,  and  be  careful  that  there  is  no  speck  of  mud  upon 
your  boots  or  trousers. 

When  your  name  is  announced,  look  for  the  lady  of  the 
house  and  pay  your  respects  to  her  before  you  even  seem  to 
see  any  other  of  your  friends  who  may  be  in  the  room.  At 
very  large  and  fashionable  receptions,  the  hostess  is  generally 
to  be  found  near  the  door.  Should  you,  however,  find  your- 
self separated  by  a  dense  crowd  of  guests,  you  are  at  liberty 

4-a 


$2  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

to  recognize  those  who  are  near  you,  and  those  whom  yoa 
encounter  as  you  make  your  way  slowly  through  the  throngi 

General  salutations  of  the  company  are  now  wholly  dis- 
used. In  society,  a  man  only  recognizes  his  own  friends  and 
acquaintances. 

If  you  are  at  the  house  of  a  new  acquaintance  and  find 
yourself  among  entire  strangers,  remember  that  by  so  meet- 
ing under  one  roof  you  are  all  in  a  certain  sense  made  known 
to  one  another,  and  should  therefore  converse  freely,  as 
equals.  To  shrink  away  to  a  side-table  and  affect  to  be  ab- 
sorbed in  some  album  or  illustrated  work ;  or,  if  you  find 
one  unlucky  acquaintance  in  the  room,  to  fasten  upon  him 
like  a  drowning  man  clinging  to  a  spar,  are  gauchcries  which 
no  shyness  can  excuse.  An  easy  and  unembarrassed  manner, 
and  the  self-possession  requisite  to  open  a  conversation  with 
those  who  happen  to  be  near  you,  are  the  indispensable  cre- 
dentials of  a  well-bred  man. 

At  an  evening  party,  do  not  remain  too  long  in  one  spot. 
To  be  afraid  to  move  from  one  drawing-room  to  another  is 
the  sure  sign  of  a  neophyte  in  society. 

If  you  have  occasion  to  use  your  handkerchief,  do  so  as 
noiselessly  as  possible.  To  blow  your  nose  as  if  it  were  a 
trombone,  or  to  turn  your  head  aside  when  using  your  hand- 
kerchief, are  vulgarities  scrupulously  to  be  avoided. 

Never  stand  upon  the  hearth-rug  with  your  back  to  the 
fire,  either  in  a  friend's  house  or  your  own.  We  have  seen 
even  well-bred  men  at  evening  parties  commit  this  selfish  and 
vulgar  solecism. 

Never  offer  any  one  the  chair  from  which  you  have  just 
risen,  unless  there  be  no  other  disengaged. 

v  If  when  supper  is  announced  no  lady  has  been  especially 
placed  under  your  care  by  the  hostess,  offer  your  arm  to 
whichever  lady  you  may  have  last  conversed  with. 

If  you  possess  any  musical  accomplishments,  do  not  wait 
to  be  pressed  and  entreated  by  your  hostess,  but  comply  im- 
mediately when  she  pays  you  the  compliment  of  inviting  you 
to  play  or  sing.  Remember,  however,  that  only  the  lady  of 
the  house  has  the  right  to  ask  you.  If  others  do  so,  you  can 
put  them  off  in  some  polite  way  j  but  must  not  comply  till 
the  hostess  herself  invites  you. 

If  you  sing  comic  songs,  be  careful  that  they  are  of  the 
most  unexceptionable  kind,  and  likely  to  offend  neither  the 
tastes  nor  prejudices  of  the  society  in  which  you  find  your- 
self. At  an  evening  party  given  expressly  in  honour  of  a 
distinguished  lady  of  colour,  we  once  heard  a  thoughtless 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  53 

amateur  dash  into  the  broadly  comic,  but  terribly  appropriate 
nigger  song  of  "  Sally  come  up."  Before  he  had  got  through 
the  first  verse,  he  had  perceived  his  mistake,  and  was  so 
overwhelmed  with  shame  that  he  could  scarcely  preserve  suf- 
ficient presence  of  mind  to  carry  him  through  to  the  end. 

If  the  party  be  of  a  small  and  social  kind,  and  those  games 
called  by  the  French  les  jenx  innocents  are  proposed,  do  not 
object  to  join  in  them  when  invited;  It  may  be  that  they 
demand  some  slight  exercise  of  wit  and  readiness,  and  that 
you  do  not  feel  yourself  calculated  to  shine  in  them ;  but  it 
is  better  to  seem  dull  than  disagreeable,  and  those  who  are 
obliging  can  always  find  some  clever  neighbour  to  assist  them 
in  the  moment  of  need.  The  game  of  "consequences"  is 
one  which  unfortunately  gives  too  much  scope  to  liberty  of 
expression.  If  you  join  in  this  game,  we  cannot  too  earnestly 
enjoin  you  never  to  write  down  one  word  which  the  most 
pure-minded  woman  present  might  not  read  aloud  without  a 
blush.  Jests  of  an  equivocal  character  are  not  only  vulgar, 
but  contemptible. 

Impromptu  charades  are  frequently  organized  at  friendly 
parties.  Unless  you  have  really  some  talent  for  acting  and 
some  readiness  of  speech,  you  should  remember  thatr  you 
only  put  others  out  and  expose  your  own  inability  by  taking 
part  in  these  entertainments.  Of  course,  if  your  help  is 
really  needed  and  you  would  disoblige  by  refusing,  you  must 
do  your  best,  and  by  doing  it  as  quietly  and  coolly  as  possible, 
avoid  being  awkward  or  ridiculous. 

Should  an  impromptu  pclka  or  quadrille  be  got  up  after 
supper  at  a  party  where  no  dancing  was  intended,  be  sure 
not  to  omit  putting  on  gloves  before  you  stand  up.  It  is  well 
always  to  have  a  pair  of  white  gloves  in  your  pocket  in  case 
of  need  ;  but  even  black  are  better  under  these  circumstances 
than  none. 

Even  though  you  may  take  no  pleasure  in  cards,  some 
knowledge  of  the  etiquette  and  rules  belonging  to  the  games 
most  in  vogue  is  necessary  to  you  in  society.  If  a  fourth  hand 
is  wanted  at  a  rubber,  or  if  the  rest  of  the  company  sit  down 
to  a  round  game,  you  would  be  deemed  guilty  of  an  impolite- 
ness if  you  refused  to  join. 

The  games  most  commonly  played  in  society  are  whist,  loo, 
vingt-et-un,  and  speculation. 

\Vhistrequiresfourplayeis.*     A  pack  of  cards  being  spread 

*  For  a  succinct  guide  to  whist,  loo,  vi:i£t-et-itn,  speculation,  &c.,  &C., 
&C-,  see  Uoutledge's  "Card-player,"  by  G.  F.  Pardon,  price  sucjenct* 


54  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

upon  the  table  with  their  faces  downwards,  the  four  players 
draw  for  partners.  Those  who  draw  the  two  highest  cards 
and  those  who  draw  the  two  lowest  become  partners.  The 
lowest  of  all  claims  the  deal. 

Married  people  should  not  play  at  the  same  table,  unles? 
where  the  party  is  so  small  that  it  cannot  be  avoided.  This 
rule  supposes  nothing  so  disgraceful  to  any  married  couple  as 
dishonest  collusion  ;  but  persons  who  play  regularly  together 
cannot  fail  to  know  so  much  of  each  other's  mode  of  acting, 
under  given  circumstances,  that  the  chances  no  longer  remaia 
perfectly  even  in  favour  of  their  adversaries. 

Never  play  for  higher  stakes  than  you  can  afford  to  lose 
without  regret.  Cards  should  be  resorted  to  for  amusement 
only  ;  for  excitement,  never. 

No  well-bred  person  ever  loses  temper  at  the  card-table. 
You  have  no  right  to  sit  down  to  the  game  unless  you  can 
bear  a  long  run  of  ill  luck  with  perfect  composure,  and  are 
prepared  cheerfully  to  pass  over  any  blunders  that  your  partner 
may  chance  to  make. 

If  you  are  an  indifferent  player,  make  a  point  of  saying  so 
before  you  join  a  party  at  whist.  If  the  others  are  fine  players 
they  will  be  infinitely  more  obliged  to  you  for  declining  than 
accepting  their  invitation.  In  any  case  you  have  no  right  to 
spoil  their  pleasure  by  your  bad  play. 

Never  let  even  politeness  induce  you  to  play  for  very  high 
stakes.  Etiquette  is  the  minor  morality  of  life  ;  but  it  never 
should  be  allowed  to  outweigh  the  higher  code  of  right  and 
wrong. 

Be  scrupulous  to  observe  silence  when  any  of  the  company 
are  playing  or  singing.  Remember  that  they  are  doing  this  for 
the  amusement  of  the  rest ;  and  that  to  talk  at  such  a  time  is 
as  ill-bred  as  if  you  were  to  turn  your  back  upon  a  perso» 
who  was  talking  to  you,  and  begin  a  conversation  with  some 
one  else. 

If  you  are  yourself  the  performer,  bear  in  mind  that  in 
music,  as  in  speech,  "  brevity  is  the  soul  of  wit."  Two  verses 
of  a  song,  or  four  pages  of  a  piece,  are  at  all  times  enough  to 
give  pleasure.  If  your  audience  desire  more  they  will  ask  for 
more  ;  and  it  is  infinitely  more  flattering  to  be  encored  than 
to  receive  the  thanks  of  your  hearers,  not  so  much  in  gratitude 
for  what  you  have  given  them,  but  in  relief  that  you  have  left 
off.  You  should  try  to  suit  your  music,  like  your  conversation, 
to  your  company.  A  solo  of  Beethoven's  would  be  as  much 
out  of  place  in  some  circles  as  a  comic  song  at  a  Quakers' 
meeting.  To  thc^se  who  only  care  for  the  light  popularities, 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  $$ 

of  the  season,  give  Balfe  and  Verdi,  Glover  and  Jullien.  To 
connoisseurs,  if  you  perform  well  enough  to  venture,  give  such 
music  as  will  be  likely  to  meet  the  exigences  of  a  fine  taste. 
Above  all,  attempt  nothing  that  you  cannot  execute  with  ease 
and  precision. 

In  retiring  from  a  crowded  party  it  is  unnecessary  that  you 
should  seek  out  the  hostess  for  the  purpose  of  bidding  her  a 
formal  good  night.  By  doing  this  you  would,  perhaps,  remind 
others  that  it  was  getting  late,  and  cause  the  party  to  break  up. 

If  you  meet  the  lady  of  the  house  on  your  way  to  the 
drawing-room  door,  take  your  leave  of  her  as  unobtrusively 
as  possible,  and  slip  away  without  attracting  the  attention  of 
her  other  guests. 


X. — THE  DINNER  TABLE. 

To  be  acquainted  with  every  detail  of  the  etiquette  pertain- 
ing to  this  subject  is  of  the  highest  importance  to  every  gentle- 
man. Ease,  savoir  faire,  and  good  breeding  are  nowhere 
more  indispensable  than  at  the  dinner-table,  and  the  absence 
of  them  are  nowhere  more  apparent.  How  to  eat  soup  and 
what  to  do  with  a  cherry-stone  are  weighty  consideiations 
when  taken  as  the  index  of  social  status ;  and  it  is  not  too 
much  to  say,  that  a  man  who  elected  to  take  claret  with  his 
fish,  or  ate  peas  with  his  knife,  would  justly  risk  the  panish- 
ment  of  being  banished  from  good  society.  As  this  subject  is 
one  of  the  most  important  of  which  we  have  to  treat,  \\  e  may 
be  pardoned  for  introducing  an  appropriate  anecdote  i  elated 
by  the  French  poet  Delille  : — 

Delille  and  Marmontel  were  dining  together  in  the  month 
of  April,  1786,  and  the  conversation  happened  to  turn  upon 
dinner-table  customs.  Marmontel  observed  how  many  little 
things  a  well-bred  man  was  obliged  to  know,  if  he  would  avoid 
being  ridiculous  at  the  tables  of  his  friends. 

"  They  are,  indeed,  innumerable,"  said  Delille ;  "and  the 
most  annoying  fact  of  all  is,  that  not  all  the  wit  and  good 
sense  in  the  world  can  help  one  to  divine  them  untaught.  A 
little  while  ago,  for  instance,  the  Abbe  Cosson,  who  is  Pro- 
fessor of  Literature  at  the  College  Mazarin,  was  describing  to 
me  a  grand,  dinner  to  which  he  had  been  invited  at  Versailles, 
and  to  which  he  had  sat  down  in  the  company  of  peers,  princes, 
and  marshals  of  France, 


56         ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

"  'I'll  wager,  now,  '  said  I,  'that  you  committed  a  hundred 
blunders  in  the  etiquette  of  the  table  !' 

"  'How  so  ? '  replied  the  Abbe,  somewhat  nettled.  What 
blunders  could  I  make  ?  It  seems  to  me  that  I  did  precisely 
as  others  did.' 

"  '  And  I,  on  the  contrary,  would  stake  my  life  that  you 
did  nothing  as  others  did.  But  let  us  begin  at  the  beginning, 
and  see  which  is  right.  In  the  first  place  there  was  your  table- 
napkin— what  did  you  do  with  that  when  you  sat  down  at 

"  'What  did  I  do  with  my  table-napkin  ?  Why,  I  did  like 
the  rest  of  the  guests  :  I  shook  it  out  of  the  folds,  spread  it 
before  me,  and  fastened  one  corner  to  my  button-hole. 

"  'Very  well,  man  cher ;  you  were  the  only  person  who 
did  so.  No  one  shakes,  spreads,  and  fastens  a  table-napkin 
in  that  manner.  You  should  have  only  laid  it  across  your 
knees.  What  soup  had  you? 

"'Turtle.' 

"  '  And  how  did  you  eat  it  ? ' 

"  '  Like  every  one  else,  I  suppose.  I  took  my  spoon  in 
one  hand,  and  my  fork  in  the  other ' 

"  '  Your  fork  !  Good  heavens  !  None  but  a  savage  eats 
soup  with  a  fork.  But  go  on.  What  did  you  take  next  7 

'"A  boiled  egg.' 

"  '  Good  and  what  did  you  do  with  the  shell  f 

11 '  Not  eat  it  certainly.    I  left  it,  of  course,  in  the  egg-cup. 

«' '  Without  breaking  it  through  with  your  spoon  ?* 

"  '  Without  breaking  it.' 

"  '  Then,  my  dear  fellow,  permit  me  to  tell  you  that  no 
one  eats  an  egg  without  breaking  the  shell  and  leaving  the 
spoon  standing  in  it.  And  after  your  egg?' 

'"I  asked  for  some  bouilli.' 

"  '  For  bouilli  t  It  is  a  term  that  no  one  uses.  You  should 
have  asked  for  beef— never  for  bouilli.  Well,  and  after  the 
bouilli?' 

"  '  I  asked  the  Abbd  de  Radonvillais  for  some  fowl . 

it  t  \Vretched  man  !  Fowl,  indeed  !  You  should  have 
asked  for  chicken  or  capon.  The  word  "  fowl "  is  never  heard 
out  of  the  kitchen.  But  all  this  applies  only  to  what  you 
ate  ;  tell  me  something  of  what  you  drank,  and  how  you 
asked  for  it.' 

'"I  asked  for  champagne  and  bordeaux  from  those  who 
had  the  bottles  before  them.' 

" '  Know  then,  my  good  friend,  that  only  a  waiter,  who 
has  no  time  or  breath  to  spare,  asks  for  champagne  or  bor- 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  59 

deaux.  A  gentleman  asks  for  vin  de  Champagne  and  vin  de 
Bordeaux.  And  now  inform  me  how  you  ate  your  bread  ?' 

"  '  Undoubtedly  like  all  the  rest  of  the  world.  I  cut  it  up 
into  small  square  pieces  with  my  knife.' 

"  '  Then  let  me  tell  you  that  no  one  cuts  bread.  You  should 
always  break  it.  Let  us  go  on  to  the  coffee.  How  did  you 
drink  yours  ?' 

"  '  Pshaw  !  At  least  I  could  make  no  mistake  in  that.  It 
was  boiling  hot,  so  I  poured  it,  a  little  at  a  time,  in  the  sau- 
cer, and  drank  it  as  it  cooled.' 

"  l  Eh  bien  /  then  you  assuredly  acted  as  no  other  gentle- 
man in  the  room.  Nothing  can  be  more  vulgar  than  to  pour 
tea  or  coffee  into  a  saucer.  You  should  have  waited  till  it 
cooled,  and  then  have  drank  it  from  the  cup.  And  now  you 
see,  my  dear  cousin,  that,  so  far  from  doing  precisely  as  others 
did,  you  acted  in  no  one  respect  according  to  the  laws  pre- 
scribed by  etiquette.' " 

An  invitation  to  dine  should  be  replied  to  immediately,  and 
unequivocally  accepted  or  declined.  Once  accepted,  nothing 
but  an  event  of  the  last  importance  should  cause  you  to  fail  in 
your  engagement. 

To  be  exactly  punctual  is  the  strictest  politeness  on  these 
occasions.  If  you  are  too  early,  you  are  in  the  way  ;  if  too 
late,  you  spoil  the  dinner,  annoy  the  hostess,  and  are  hated  by 
the  rest  of  the  guests.  Some  authorities  are  even  of  opinion 
that  in  the  question  of  a  dinner-party  "never"  is  better  than 
"late  ;"  and  one  author  has  gone  so  far  as  to  say,  if  you  do 
not  reach  the  house  till  dinner  is  served,  you  had  better  retire 
to  a  restaurateur's,  and  thence  send  an  apology,  and  not  inter- 
nipt  the  harmony  of  the  courses  by  awkward  excuses  and 
cold  acceptance." 

When  the  party  is  assembled,  the  mistress  or  master  of  the 
house  will  point  out  to  each  gentleman  the  lady  whom  he  is 
to  conduct  to  table.  If  she  be  a  stranger,  you  had  better 
seek  an  introduction  ;  if  a  previous  acquaintance,  take  care  to 
be  near  her  when  the  dinner  is  announced,  offer  your  srm, 
and  go  down  according  to  precedence  of  rank.  This  order 
of  precedence  must  be  arranged  by  the  host  or  hostess,  as  the 
guests  are  probably  unacquainted,  and  cannot  know  each 
other's  social  rank. 

When  the  society  is  of  a  distinguished  kind,  the  host  will 
do  well  to  consult  Debrett  or  Lurke,  before  arranging  his 
visitors. 

\Yhen  rank  is  not  in  question,  other  claims  to  precedence 
must  be  considered.  The  lady  who  is  the  greatest  strange? 


58  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

should  be  taken  down  by  the  master  of  the  house,  and  the 
gentleman  who  is  the  greatest  stranger  should  conduct  the 
hostess.  Married  ladies  take  precedence  of  single  ladies, 
elder  ladies  of  younger  ones,  and  so  forth. 

When  dinner  is  announced,  the  host  offers  his  arm  to  the 
lady  of  most  distinction,  invites  the  rest  to  follow  by  a  few 
words  or  a  bow,  and  leads  the  way.  The  lady  of  the  house 
should  then  follow  with  the  gentleman  who  is  most  entitled  to 
that  honour,  and  the  visitors  follow  in  the  order  that  the  mas- 
ter of  the  house  has  previously  arranged.  The  lady  of  the 
house  frequently  remains,  however,  till  the  last,  that  she  may 
see  her  guests  go  down  in  their  prescribed  order;  but  the 
plan  is  not  a  convenient  one.  It  is  much  better  that  the  hos- 
tess should  be  in  her  place  as  the  guests  enter  the  dining-room, 
in  order  that  she  may  indicate  their  seats  to  them  Its  they 
come  in,  and  not  find  them  all  crowded  together  in  uncer- 
tainty when  she  arrives. 

The  number  of  guests  at  a  dinner-party  should  always  be 
determined  by  the  size  of  the  table.  When  the  party  is  too 
small,  conversation  flags,  and  a  general  air  of  desolation  per- 
vades the  table.  When  they  are  too  many,  every  one  is 
inconvenienced.  A  space  of  two  feet  should  be  allowed  to 
each  person.  It  is  well  to  arrange  a  party  in  such  wise  that 
the  number  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  be  equal. 

It  requires  some  tact  to  distribute  your  guests  so  that  each 
shall  find  himself  with  a  neighbour  to  his  taste  ;  but  as  much 
of  the  success  of  a  dinner  will  always  depend  on  this  matter, 
it  is  worth  some  consideration.  If  you  have  a  wit,  or  a  par- 
ticularly good  talker,  among  your  visitors,  it  is  well  to  place 
him  near  the  centre  of  the  table,  where  he  can  be  heard 
and  talked  to  by  all.  It  is  obviously  a  bad  plan  to  place  two 
such  persons  in  close  proximity.  They  extinguish  each  oth-r. 
Neither  is  it  advisable  to  assign  two  neighbouring  seats  to  two 
gentlemen  of  the  same  profession,  as  they  are  likely  to  fall 
into  exclusive  conversation  and  amuse  no  one  but  themselves 
A  little  consideration  of  the  politics,  religious  opinions,  and 
tastes  of  his  friends,  will  enable  a  judicious  host  to  avoid 
many  quicksands,  and  establish  much  pleasant  intercourse  on 
the  occasion  of  a  dinner  party. 

The  lady  of  the  house  takes  the  head  of  the  table.  The 
gentleman  who  led  her  down  to  dinner  occupies  the  seat  on 
her  right  hand,  and  the  gentleman  next  in  order  of  preced-1 
ence,  that  on  her  left.  The  master  of  the  house  takes  the  foot 
of  the  table.  The  lady  whom  he  escorted  sits  on  his  ri^ht 
hand,  and  the  lady  next  in  order  of  precedence  on  his  lcft,& 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  55 

The  gentlemen  who  support  the  lady  of  the  house  should 
offer  to  relieve  her  of  the  duties  of  hostess.  Many  ladies  are 
well  pleased  thus  to  delegate  the  difficulties  of  carving,  and  all 
gentlemen  who  accept  invitations  to  dinner  should  be  pre- 
pared to  render  such  assistance  when  called  upon.  To  offer 
to  carve  a  dish,  and  then  perform  the  office  unskilfully,  is  an 
unpardonable  gaitckerie.  Every  gentleman  should  carve,  and 
carve  well. 

As  soon  as  you  are  seated  at  table,  remove  your  gloves, 
place  your  table  napkin  across  your  knees,  and  remove  the 
roll  which  you  find  probably  within  it  to  the  left  side  of  your 
plate. 

The  soup  should  be  placed  on  the  table  first.  Some  old- 
fashioned  persons  still  place  soup  and  fish  together  ;  but  "  it 
is  a  custom  more  honoured  in  the  breach  than  the  observ- 
ance." Still  more  old-fashioned,  and  in  still  worse  taste  is  it 
to  ask  your  guests  if  they  will  take  "soup  or  fish."  They  are 
as  much  separate  courses  as  the  fish  and  the  meat ;  and  all 
experienced  diners  take  both.  In  any  case,  it  is  inhospit- 
able to  appear  to  force  a  choice  upon  a  visitor,  when  that  visi- 
tor, in  all  probability,  will  prefer  to  take  his  soup  first  and 
his  fish  afterwards.  All  well-ordered  dinners  begin  with  soup, 
whether  in  summer  or  winter.  The  lady  of  the  house  should 
help  it  and  send  it  round,  without  asking  each  individual  in 
turn.  It  is  as  much  an  understood  thing  as  the  bread  beside 
each  plate,  and  those  who  do  not  choose  it,  are  always  at 
liberty  to  leave  it  untasted. 

In  eating  soup,  remember  always  to  take  it  from  the  side  of 
the  spoon,  and  to  make  no  sound  in  doing  so. 

If  the  servants  do  not  go  round  with  wine  the  gentlemen 
should 'help  the  ladies  and  themselves  to  sherry  or  sauterne 
immediately  after  the  soup. 

You  should  never  ask  for  a  second  supply  of  either  soup  or 
fish  ;  it  delays  the  next  course,  and  keeps  the  table  waiting. 

Never  offer  to  "assist "  your  neighbours  to  this  or  that  dish. 
The  word  is  inexpressibly  vulgar — all  the  more  vulgar  for  its 
affectation  of  elegance.  <:  Shall  I  send  you  some  mutton?" 
or  "  may  I  help  you  to  grouse  ?"  is  better  chosen  and  better 
bred. 

As  a  general  rule,  it  is  better  not  to  ask  your  guests  if  they 
will  partake  of  the  dishes ;  but  to  send  the  plates  round,  and 
let  them  accept  or  decline  them  as  they  please.  At  very  large 
dinners  it  is  sometimes  customary  to  distribute  little  lists  of 
the  order  of  the  dishes  at  intervals  along  the  table:  It  must 
be  confessed  that  this  gives  somewhat  the  air  of  a  dinner  at  an 


Go  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN* 

hotel ;  but  it  has  the  advantage  of  enabling  the  visitors  to 
select  their  fare,  and,  as  "forewarned  is  forearmed,"  to  keep 
a  corner,  as  the  children  say,  for  their  favourite  dishes: 

If  you  are  asked  to  take  wine,  it  is  polite  to  select  the  same 
as  that  which  your  interlocutor  is  drinking.  If  you  invite  a 
lady  to  take  wine,  you  should  ask  her  which  she  will  prefer, 
and  then  take  the  same  yourself.  Should  you,  however,  for 
any  reason  prefer  some  other  vintage,  you  can  take  it  by  cour- 
teously requesting  her  permission. 

As  soon  as  you  are  helped,  begin  to  eat ;  or,  if  the  viands 
are  too  hot  for  your  palate,  take  up  your  knife  and  fork  and 
appear  to  begin.  To  wait  for  others  is  now  not  only  old- 
fashioned,  but  ill-bred. 

Never  offer  to  pass  on  the  plate  to  which  you  have  been 
helped.  This  is  a  still  more  vulgar  piece  of  politeness,  and 
belongs  to  the  manners  of  a  hundred  years  ago.  The  lady  of 
the  house  who  sends  your  plate  to  you  is  the  best  judge  of 
precedence  at  her  own  table. 

In  helping  soup,  fish,  or  any  other  dish,  remember  that  to 
overfill  a  plate  is  as  bad  as  to  supply  it  too  scantily. 

Silver  fish-knives  will  now  always  be  met  with  at  the  best 
tables  ;  but  where  there  are  none,  a  piece  of  crust  should  be 
taken  in  the  left  hand,  and  the  fork  in  the  right.  There  is  no 
exception  to  this  rule  in  eating  fish. 

We  presume  it  is  scarcely  necessary  to  remind  the  reader 
that  he  is  never,  uuder  any  circumstances,  to  convey  his 
knife  to  his  moulh.  Peas  are  eaten  with  the  fork ;  tarts, 
curry,  and  puddings  of  all  kinds  with  the  spoon. 

Always  help  fish  with  a  fish-slice,  and  tart  and  puddings 
with  a  spoon,  or,  if  necessary,  a  spoon  and  fork. 

Asparagus  must  be  helped  with  the  asparagus-tongs. 

In  eating  asparagus,  it  is  well  to  observe  what  others  do,  and 
act  accordingly.  Some  very  well-bred  people  eat  it  with  the 
fingers  ;  others  cut  off  the  heads,  and  convey  them  '  T  the 
mouth  upon  the  fork.  It  would  be  difficult  to  say  which  is 
the  more  correct. 

In  eating  stone  fruit,  such  as  cherries,  damsons,  &c.,  the 
same  rule  had  better  be  observed.  Some  put  the  stones  out 
from  the  mouth  into  a  spoon,  and  so  convey  them  to  the 
plate.  Others  cover  the  lips  with  the  hand,  drop  them  un- 
seen into  the  palm,  and  so  deposit  them  on  the  side  of  the 
plate.  In  our  own  opinion,  the  last  is  the  better  way,  as  it 
effectually  conceals  the  return  of  the  stones,  which  is  cer- 
tainly the  point  of  highest  importance.  Of  one  thing  we  may 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.        61 

l>e  sure,  and  that  is,  that  they  must  never  be  dropped  from  the 
mouth  to  the  plate. 

In  helping  sauce,  always  pour  it  on  the  side  of  the  plate. 

If  the  servants  do  not  go  round  with  the  wine  (which  is  by 
far  the  best  custom),  the  gentlemen  at  a  dinner-table  should 
take  upon  themselves  the  office  of  helping  those  ladies  who 
sit  near  them.  Ladies  take  more  wine  in  the  present  day 
than  they  did  fifty  years  ago,  and  gentlemen  should  remember 
this,  and  offer  it  frequently.  Ladies  cannot  very  well  ask  for 
wine,  but  they  can  always  decline  it.  At  all  events,  they  dc 
not  like  to  be  negkcted,  or  to  see  gentlemen  liberally  helping 
themselves,  without  observing  whether  their  fair  neighbours' 
glasses  are  full  or  empty.  Young  ladies  seldom  drink  more 
than  three  glasses  of  wine  at  dinner  ;  but  married  ladies,  pro- 
fessional ladies,  and  those  accustomed  to  society,  and  habits 
of  affluence,  will  habitually  take  five  or  even  six,  whether  in 
their  own  homes  or  at  the  tables  of  their  friends. 

The  habit  of  taking  wine  with  each  other  has  almost  wholly 
gone  out  of  fashion.  A  gentleman  may  ask  the  lady  whom 
he  conducted  down  to  dinner ;  or  he  may  ask  the  lady  of  the 
house  to  take  wine  with  him.  But  even  these  last  remnants  of 
the  old  custom  are  fast  falling  into  disuse. 

Unless  you  are  a  total  abstainer,  it  is  extremely  uncivil  to 
decline  taking  wine  if  you  are  invited  to  do  so.  In  accepting, 
you  have  only  to  pour  a  little  fresh  wine  into  your  glass,  look 
at  the  person  who  invited  you,  bow  slightly,  and  take  a  sip 
from  the  glass. 

It  is  particularly  ill-bred  to  empty  your  glass  on  these  oc- 
casions. 

Certain  wines  are  taken  with  certain  dishes,  by  old-estab- 
lished custom — as  sherry,  or  sauterne,  with  soup  and  fish ; 
hock  and  claret  with  roast  meat ;  punch  with  turtle  ;  cham- 
pagne with  whitebait ;  port  with  venison  ;  port,  or  burgundy, 
with  game  ;  sparkling  xvines  between  the  roast  and  the  con- 
fectionery ;  madeira  with  sweets  ;  port  with  cheese  ;  and  for 
dessert,  port,  tokay,  madeira,  sherry,  and  claret.  Red  wines 
should  never  be  iced,  even  in  summer.  Claret  and  burgundy 
should  always  be  slightly  warmed;  claret-cup  and  champagne- 
cup  should,  of  course,  be  iced. 

Instead  of  cooling  their  wines  in  the  ice-pail,  some  hosts 
have  of  late  years  introduced  clear  ice  upon  the  table,  broken 
up  in  small  lumps,  to  be  put  inside  the  glasses.  This  is  an 
innovation  that  cannot  be  too  strictly  reprehended  or  too  soon 
abolished.  Melting  ice  can  but  weaken  the  quality  and 
flavour  of  the  wine.  Those  who  de.««re  to  drink  wine  and 


62  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEME&. 

water  can  asked  for  iced  water  if  they  choose,  but  it  savonrs 
too  much  of  economy  on  the  part  of  a  host  to  insinuate  the 
ice  inside  the  glasses  of  his  guests,  when  the  wine  could  be 
more  effectually  iced  outside  the  bottle. 

A  silver  knife  and  fork  should  be  placed  to  each  guest  at 
dessert. 

If  you  are  asked  to  prepare  fruit  for  a  lady,  be  careful  to  do 
so,  by  means  of  the  silver  knife  and  fork  only,  and  never  to 
touch  it  with  your  fingers. 

It  is  wise  never  to  partake  of  any  dish  without  knowing  of 
what  ingredients  it  is  composed.  You  can  always  ask  the 
servant  who  hands  it  to  you,  and  you  thereby  avoid  all  danger 
of  having  to  commit  the  impoliteness  of  leaving  it,  and  show- 
ing that  you  do  not  approve  of  it. 

Never  speak  while  you  have  anything  in  your  mouth. 

Be  careful  never  to  taste  soups  or  puddings  till  you  are  sure 
they  are  sufficiently  cool ;  as,  by  disregarding  this  caution, 
you  may  be  compelled  to  swallow  what  is  dangerously  hot, 
or  be  driven  to  the  unpardonable  alternative  of  returning  it  to 
your  plate. 

When  eating  or  drinking,  avoid  every  kind  of  audible  testi- 
mony to  the  fact. 

Finger-glasses,  containing  water  slightly  warmed  and  per- 
fumed, are  placed  to  each  person  at  dessert.  In  these  you 
may  dip  the  tips  of  your  fingers,  wiping  them  afterwards  on 
your  table-napkin.  If  the  finger-glass  and  d'Oyley  are  placed 
on  your  dessert-plate,  you  should  immediately  remove  the 
d'Oyley  to  the  left  of  your  plate,  and  place  the  finger-glass 
upon  it.  By  these  means  you  leave  the  right  for  the  wine- 
glasses. 

Be  careful  to  know  the  shapes  of  the  various  kinds  of 
wine-glasses  commonly  in  use,  in  order  that  you  may  never 
put  forward  one  for  another.  High  and  narrow,  and  very 
broad  and  shallow  glasses,  are  used  for  champagne ;  large, 
goblet-shaped  glasses  for  burgundy  and  claret ;  ordinary  wine- 
glasses for  sherry  and  madeira  ;  green  glasses  for  hock  ;  and 
somewhat  large,  bell-shaped  glasses,  for  port. 

Port,  sherry,  and  madeira,  are  decanted.  Hocks  and 
champagnes  appear  in  their  native  bottles.  Claret  and  bur- 
gundy are  handed  round  in  a  claret-jug. 

Coffee  and  liqueurs  should  be  handed  round  when  the  des- 
sert has  been  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  on  the  table.  After 
this,  the  ladies  generally  retire. 

Should  no  servant  be  present  to  do  so,  the  gentleman  who 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  63 

is  nearest  the  door  should  hold  it  for  the  ladies  to  pass 
through. 

When  the  ladies  leave  the  dining-room,  the  gentlemen  all 
rise  in  their  places,  and  do  not  resume  their  seats  till  the  last 
lady  is  gone. 

The  servants  leave  the  room  when  the  dessert  is  on  the 
table. 

If  you  should  unfortunately  overturn  or  break  anything, 
do  not  apologize  for  it.  You  can  show  your  regret  in  your 
face,  but  it  is  not  well-bred  to  put  it  into  words. 

Should  you  injure  a  lady's  dress,  apologise  amply,  and  as- 
sist her,  if  possible,  to  remove  all  traces  of  the  damage. 

To  abstain  from  taking  the  last  piece  on  the  dish,  or  the 
last  glass  of  wine  in  the  decanter,  only  because  it  is  the  last, 
is  highly  ill-bred.  It  implies  a  fear  that  the  vacancy  cannot 
be  supplied,  and  almost  conveys  an  affront  to  your  host. 

In  summing  up  the  little  duties  and  laws  of  the  table,  a 
popular  author  has  said  that — "The  chief  matter  of  considera- 
tion at  the  dinner-table — as,  indeed,  everywhere  else  in  the 
life  of  a  gentleman — is  to  be  perfectly  composed  and  at  his 
ease.  He  speaks  deliberately  ;  he  performs  the  most  impor- 
tant act  of  the  day  as  if  he  were  performing  the  most  ordinary. 
Yet  there  is  no  appearance  of  trifling  or  want  of  gravity  in  his 
manner;  he  maintains  the  dignity  which  is  so  becoming  on  so 
vital  an  occasion.  He  performs  all  the  ceremonies,  yet  in  the 
style  of  one  who  performs  no  ceremonies  at  all.  He  goes 
through  all  the  complicated  duties  of  the  scene  as  if  he  were 
'  to  the  manner  born.' " 

To  the  giver  of  a  dinner  we  have  but  one  or  two  remarks 
to  offer.  If  he  be  a  bachelor,  he  had  better  give  his  dinner 
at  a  good  hotel,  or  have  it  sent  in  from  Birch's  or  Kiihn's. 
If  a  married  man,  he  will,  we  presume,  enter  into  council 
with  his  wife  and  his  cook.  In  any  case,  however,  he  should 
always  bear  in  mind  that  it  is  his  duty  to  entertain  his  friends 
in  the  best  manner  that  his  means  permit ;  and  that  this  is 
the  least  he  can  do  to  recompense  them  for  the  expenditure 
of  time  and  money  which  they  incur  in  accepting  his  invita- 
tion. 

"  To  invite  a  friend  to  dinner,"  says  Brillat  Savarin,  "is 
to  become  responsible  for  his  happiness  so  long  as  he  is  under 
your  roof."  Again  : — "  He  who  receives  friends  at  his  table, 
without  having  bestowed  his  personal  supervision  upon  the 
repast  placed  before  them,  is  unworthy  to  have  friends." 

A  dinner,  to  be  excellent,  need  not  consist  of  a  great 
variety  of  dishes  :  but  everything  should  be  of  the  best,  and 


64  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

the  cookeiy  should  be  perfect.  That  which  should  be  cool 
should  be  cool  as  ice  ;  that  which  should  be  hot  should  be 
smoking  ;  the  attendance  should  be  rapid  and  noiseless  ;  the 
guests  well  assorted  ;  the  wines  of  the  best  quality  ;  the  host 
attentive  and  courteous ;  the  room  well  lighted  ;  and  the  time 
punctual. 

Every  dinner  should  begin  with  soup,  be  followed  by  fish, 
and  include  some  kind  of  game.  "  The  soup  is  to  the  din- 
ner," we  are  told  by  Grisnod  de  la  Regniere,  "what  the 
portico  is  to  a  building,  or  the  overture  to  an  opera." 

To  this  aphorism  we  may  be  permitted  to  add  that  a  chasse 
of  cognac  or  cura9oa  at  the  close  of  the  dinner  is  like  the 
epilogue  at  the  end  of  a  comedy. 

One  more  quotation  and  we  have  done  : — "  To  perform 
faultlessly  the  honours  of  the  table  is  one  of  the  most  diffi- 
cult things  in  society.  It  might  indeed  be  asserted  without 
much  fear  gf  contradiction,  that  no  man  has  as  yet  ever 
reached  exact  propriety  in  his  office  as  host,  or  has  hit  the 
mean  between  exerting  himself  too  much  and  too  little.  His 
great  business  is  to  put  every  one  entirely  at  his  ease,  to 
gratify  all  his  desires,  and  make  him,  in  a  word,  absolutely 
contented  with  men  and  things.  To  accomplish  this,  he 
must  have  the  genius  of  tact  to  perceive,  and  the  genius  of 
finesse  to  execute ;  ease  and  frankness  of  manner ;  a  know- 
ledge of  the  world  that  nothing  can  surprise ;  a  calmness  of 
temper  that  nothing  can  disturb;  and  a  kindness  of  disposi- 
tion that  can  never  be  exhausted.  When  he  receives  others 
he  must  be  content  to  forget  himself;  he  must  relinquish  all 
desire  to  shine,  and  even  all  attempts  to  please  his  guests  by 
conversation,  and  rather  do  all  in  his  power  to  let  them 
please  one  another.  He  behaves  to  them  without  agitation, 
without  affectation  ;  he  pays  attention  without  an  air  of  pro- 
tection ;  he  encourages  the  timid,  draws  cut  the  silent,  and 
directs  conversation  without  sustaining  it  himself.  He  who 
does  not  do  all  this  is  wanting  in  his  duty  as  host — he  who 
does,  if  more  than  mortal" 

In  conclusion,  we  may  observe  that  to  sit  long  in  the  din- 
ing-room after  the  ladies  have  retired  is  to  pay  a  bad  compli- 
ment to  the  hostess  and  her  fair  visitors  ;  and  that  it  is  a  still 
worse  tribute  to  rejoin  them  with  a  flushed  face  and  impaired 
powers  of  thought  A  refined  gentleman  is  always  tempe* 
rate. 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.         65 


XL— THE  BALL-ROOM. 

Invitations  to  a  ball  are  issued  at  least  ten  days  in  advance; 
And  this  term  is  sometimes,  in  the  height  of  the  season,  ex- 
tended to  three  weeks,  or  even  a  month. 

An  invitation  should  be  accepted  or  declined  within  a  day 
or  two  of  its  reception. 

Gentlemen  who  do  not  dance  should  not  accept  invitations 
of  this  kind.  They  are  but  incumbrances  in  the  ball-room, 
besides  which,  it  looks  like  a  breach  of  etiquette  and  cour- 
tesy to  stand  or  sit  idly  by  when  there  are,  most  probably, 
ladies  in  the  room  who  are  waiting  for  an  invitation  to  dance. 

A  ball  generally  begins  about  half-past  nine  or  ten  o'clock. 

A  man  who  stands  up  to  dance  without  being  acquainted 
with  the  figures,  makes  himself  ridiculous,  and  places  his 
partner  in  an  embarrassing  and  unenviable  position.  There 
is  no  need  for  him  to  know  the  steps.  It  is  enough  if  he 
knows  how  to  walk  gracefully  through  the  dance,  and  to 
conduct  his  partner  through  it  like  a  gentleman.  No  man 
can  waltz  too  well ;  but  to  perform  steps  in  a  quadrille  is  not 
only  unnecessary  but  ontrL 

A  gentleman  cannot  ask  a  lady  to  dance  without  being 
first  introduced  to  her  by  some  member  of  the  hostess's 
family. 

Never  enter  a  ball-room  in  other  than  full  evening  dress, 
and  white  or  light  kid  gloves. 

A  gentleman  cannot  be  too  careful  not  to  injure  a  lady's 
dress.  The  young  men  of  the  present  day  are  inconceivably 
thoughtless  in  this  respect,  and  often  seem  to  think  the  mis- 
chief which  they  do  scarcely  worth  an  apology.  Cavalry 
officers  should  never  wear  spurs  in  a  ball-room. 

Bear  in  mind  that  all  Casino  habits  are  to  be  scrupulously 
avoided  in  a  private  ball-room.  It  is  an  affront  to  a  highly- 
bred  lady  to  hold  her  hand  behind  you,  or  on  your  hip,  when 
dancing  a  round  dance.  We  have  seen  even  aristocratic 
young  men  of  the  "fast"  genus  commit  these  unpardonable 
offences  against  taste  and  decorum. 

Never  forget  a  ball-room  engagement.  It  is  the  greatest 
neglect  and  slight  that  a  gentleman  can  offer  to  a  lady. 

At  the  beginning  and  end  of  a  quadrille  the  gentleman 
bows  to  his  partner,  and  bows  again  on  handing  her  to  a 
seat. 

After  dancing,  the  gentleman  may  offer  to  conduct  the 
lady  to  the  refreshment-room, 

5 


66  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

Should  a  lady  decline  your  hand  for  a  dance,  and  after- 
wards stand  up  with  another  partner,  you  will  do  well  to 
attribute  her  error  to  either  forgetfulness  or  ignorance  of  the 
laws  of  etiquette.  Politeness  towards  your  host  and  hostess 
demands  that  you  should  never  make  any  little  personal 
grievance  the  ground  of  discomfort  or  disagreement. 

A  gentleman  conducts  his  last  partner  to  supper ;  waits 
upon  her  till  she  has  had  as  much  refreshment  as  she  desires, 
and  then  re-conducts  her  to  the  ball-room. 

However  much  pleasure  you  may  take  in  the  society  of 
any  particular  lady,  etiquette  forbids  that  you  should  dance 
with  her  too  frequently.  Engaged  persons  would  do  well  to 
bear  this  maxim  in  mind. 

It  is  customary  to  call  upon  your  entertainers  within  a  few 
days  after  the  ball.* 


XII. — STAYING  AT  A  FRIEND'S  HOUSE  :— BREAKFAST, 
LUNCHEON,  &c. 

A  visitor  is  bound  by  the  laws  of  social  intercourse  to  con- 
form in  all  respects  to  the  habits  of  the  house.  In  order  to 
do  this  effectually,  he  should  inquire,  or  cause  his  personal 
servant  to  inquire,  what  those  habits  are.  To  keep  your 
friend's  breakfast  on  the  table  till  a  late  hour  ;  to  delay  the 
dinner  by  want  of  punctuality ;  to  accept  other  invitations, 
and  treat  his  house  as  if  it  were  merely  an  hotel  to  be  slept 
in  ;  or  to  keep  the  family  up  till  unwonted  hours,  are  alike 
evidences  of  a  want  of  good  feeling  and  good  breeding. 

At  breakfast  and  lunch  absolute  punctuality  is  not  impera- 
tive ;  but  a  visitor  should  avoid  being  always  the  last  to  appear 
at  table. 

No  order  of  precedence  is  observed  at  either  breakfast  or 
luncheon.  Persons  take  their  seats  as  they  come  in,  and, 
having  exchanged  their  morning  salutations,  begin  to  eat 
without  waiting  for  the  rest  of  the  party. 

If  letters  are  delivered  to  you  at  breakfast  or  luncheon,  you 
may  read  them  by  asking  permission  from  the  lady  who  pre- 
sides at  the  urn. 

Always  hold  yourself  at  the  disposal  of  those  in  whose 
house  you  are  visiting.  If  they  propose  to  ride,  drive,  walk, 

*  For  a  more  detailed  account  of  the  laws  and  business  of  tht  ball, 
we  the  chapters  entitlta  "The  y all-room  Guide." 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  67 

or  otherwise  occupy  the  day,  you  may  take  it  for  granted 
that  these  plans  are  made  with  reference  to  your  enjoyment. 
You  should,  therefore,  receive  them  with  cheerfulness,  enter 
into  them  with  alacrity,  and  do  your  best  to  seem  pleased, 
and  be  pleased,  by  the  efforts  -which  your  friends  make  to 
entertain  you. 

You  should  never  take  a  book  from  the  library  to  your  own 
room  without  requesting  permission  to  borrow  it.  When  it 
is  lent,  you  should  take  every  care  that  it  sustains  no  injury 
while  in  your  possession,  and  should  cover  it,  if  necessary. 

A  guest  should  endeavour  to  amuse  himself  as  much  as 
possible,  and  not  be  continually  dependent  on  his  hosts  for 
entertainment.  He  should  remember  that,  however  welcome 
he  may  be,  he  is  not  always  wanted.  During  the  morning 
hours  a  gentleman  visitor  who  neither  shoots,  reads,  writes 
letters,  nor  does  anything  but  idle  about  the  house  and  chat 
with  the  ladies,  is  an  intolerable  nuisance.  Sooner  than  be- 
come the  latter,  he  had  better  retire  to  the  billiard-room  and 
practise  cannons  by  himself,  or  pretend  an  engagement  and 
walk  about  the  neighbourhood. 

Those  who  receive  "staying  visitors,"  as  they  are  called, 
should  remember  that  the  truest  hospitality  is  that  which 
places  the  visitor  most  at  his  ease,  and  affords  him  the  greatest 
opportunity  for  enjoyment.  They  should  also  remember  that 
different  persons  have  different  ideas  on  the  subject  of  enjoy- 
ment, and  that  the  surest  way  of  making  a  guest  happy  is  to 
find  out  what  gives  him  pleasure  ;  not  to  impose  that  upon 
him  which  is  pleasure  to  themselves. 

A  visitor  should  avoid  giving  unnecessary  trouble  to  the 
servants  of  the  house,  and  should  be  liberal  to  them  when  he 
leaves. 

The  signal  for  retiring  to  rest  is  generally  given  by  the 
appearance  of  the  servant  with  wine,  water,  and  biscuits, 
where  a  late  dinner-hour  is  observed  and  suppers  are  not  the 
custom.  This  is  the  last  refreshment  of  the  evening,  and  the 
visitor  will  do  well  to  rise  and  wish  good-night  shortly  after 
it  has  been  partaken  of  by  the  family. 


XIIL— GENERAL  HINTS. 

In  entering  a  morning  exhibition,  or  public  room,  wherft 
ladies  are  present,  the  gentleman  should  lift  his  hat. 

5—2 


IS  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

In  going  upstairs  the  gentleman  should  precede  the  lady ; 
in  going  down,  he  should  follow  her. 

If  you  accompany  ladies  to  a  theatre  or  concert-room,  pre« 
cede  them  to  clear  the  way  and  secure  their  seats. 

Do  not  frequently  repeat  the  name  of  the  person  with 
whom  you  are  conversing.  It  implies  either  the  extreme  of 
hauteur  or  familiarity.  We  have  already  cautioned  you 
against  the  repetition  of  titles.  Deference  can  always  be 
better  expressed  in  the  voice,  manner,  and  countenance  than 
in  any  forms  of  words. 

If  when  you  are  walking  with  a  lady  in  any  crowded  thorough- 
fare you  are  obliged  to  proceed  singly,  always  precede  her. 

Always  give  the  lady  the  wall ;  by  doing  so  you  interpose 
your  own  person  between  her  and  the  passers  by,  and  assign 
her  the  cleanest  part  of  the  pavement. 

At  public  balls,  theatres,  &c.,  a  gentleman  should  never 
permit  the  lady  to  pay  for  refreshments,  vehicles,  and  so  forth. 
If  she  insists  on  repaying  him  afterwards,  he  must  of  course 
defer  to  her  wishes. 

Never  speak  of  absent  persons  by  only  their  Christian  or 

surnames ;  but  always  as  Mr.  or  Mrs.  .  Above 

all,  never  name  anybody  by  the  first  letter  of  his  name. 
Married  people  are"  sometimes  guilty  of  this  flagrant  offence 
against  taste. 

If  you  are  smoking  and  meet  a  lady  to  whom  you  wish  to 
speak,  immediately  throw  away  your  cigar. 

Do  not  smoke  shortly  before  entering  the  presence  of 
ladies. 

A  young  man  who  visits  frequently  at  the  house  of  a  married 
friend  may  be  permitted  to  show  his  sense  of  the  kindness  which 
he  receives  by  the  gift  of  a  Christmas  or  New  Year's  volume 
to  the  wife  or  daughter  of  his  entertainer.  The  presentation 
of  Etrennes  is  now  earned  to  a  ruinous  and  ludicrous  height 
among  our  French  neighbours  ;  but  it  should  be  remembered 
that,  without  either  ostentation  or  folly,  a  gift  ought  to  be 
worth  offering.  It  is  better  to  give  nothing  than  too  little. 
On  the  other  hand,  mere  costliness  does  not  constitute  the 
soul  of  a  present ;  on  the  contrary,  it  has  the  commer- 
cial and  unflattering  effect  of  repayment  for  value  received. 

A  gift  should  be  precious  for  something  better  than  its 
price.  It  may  have  been  brought  by  the  giver  from  some 
far  or  famous  place ;  it  may  be  unique  in  its  workmanship  ; 
it  may  be  valuable  only  from  association  with  some  great  man 
or  strange  event.  Autographic  papers,  foreign  curiosities, 
and  the  like,  are  elegant  gifts.  An  author  may  offer  his 


ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN.  69 

book,  or  a  painter  a  sketch,  with  grace  and  propriety.  Offer- 
ings of  flowers  and  game  are  unexceptionable,  and  may  be 
made  even  to  those  whose  position  is  superior  to  that  of  the 
giver. 

If  you  present  a  book  to  a  friend,  do  not  write  his  or  her 
name  in  it,  unless  requested .  You  have  no  right  to  presume 
that  it  will  be  rendered  any  the  more  valuable  for  that  addi- 
tion ;  and  you  ought  not  to  conclude  beforehand  that  your 
gift  will  be  accepted. 

Never  refuse  a  present  unless  under  very  exceptional  cir- 
cumstances. However  humble  the  giver,  and  however  poor 
the  gift,  you  should  appreciate  the  goodwill  and  intention, 
and  accept  it  with  kindness  and  thanks.  Never  say  "  I  fear 
I  rob  you,"  or  "  I  am  really  ashamed  to  take  it,"  &c.,  &c. 
Such  deprecatory  phrases  imply  that  you  think  the  bestower 
of  the  gift  cannot  spare  or  afford  it. 

Never  undervalue  the  gift  which  you  are  yourself  offering  ; 
you  have  no  business  to  offer  it  if  it  is  valueless.  Neither 
say  that  you  do  not  want  it  yourself,  or  that  you  should  throw 
it  away  if  it  were  not  accepted.  Such  apologies  would  be 
insults  if  true,  and  mean  nothing  if  false. 

No  compliment  that  bears  insincerity  on  the  face  of  it  is  a 
compliment  at  all. 

To  yawn  in  the  presence  of  others,  to  lounge,  to  put  your 
feet  on  a  chair,  to  stand  with  your  back  to  the  fire,  to  take 
the  most  comfortable  seat  in  the  room,  to  do  anything  which 
shows  indifference,  selfishness,  or  disrespect,  is  unequivo- 
cally vulgar  and  inadmissible. 

If  a  person  of  greater  age  or  higher  rank  than  yourself 
desires  you  to  step  first  into  a  carriage,  or  through  a  door,  it 
is  more  polite  to  bow  and  obey  than  to  decline. 

Compliance  with,  and  deference  to,  the  wishes  of  others  is 
the  finest  breeding. 

When  you  cannot  agree  with  the  propositions  advanced  in 
general  conversation,  be  silent.  If  pressed  for  your  opinion, 
give  it  with  modesty.  Never  defend  your  own  views  too 
warmly.  When  you  find  others  remain  unconvinced,  drop 
the  subject,  or  lead  to  some  other  topic. 

Look  at  those  who  address  you. 

Never  boast  of  youi  birth,  your  money,  your  grand  friends, 
or  anything  that  is  yours.  If  you  have  travelled,  do  not 
introduce  that  information  into  your  conversation  at  every 
opportunity.  Any  one  can  travel  with  money  and  leisure. 
The  real  distinction  is  to  come  home  with  enlarged  views, 
improved  tastes,  and  a  mind  free  from  prejudice. 


JO  ETIQUETTE  FOR  GENTLEMEN. 

Give  a  foreigner  his  name  in  full,  as  Monsieur  de  Vigny— 
never  as  Monsieur  only.  In  speaking  of  him,  give  him  his 
title,  if  he  has  one.  Foreign  noblemen  are  addressed  viva 
voce  as  Monsieur.  In  speaking  of  a  foreign  nobleman  before 
his  face,  say  Monsieur  le  Comte,  or  Monsieur  le  Marquis.  In 
his  absence,  say  Monsieur  le  Comte  de  Vigny. 

Converse  with  a  foreigner  in  his  own  language.  If  not 
competent  to  do  so,  apologize,  and  beg  permission  to  speak 
English. 


I.— HOW  TO  ORGANISE  A  BALL. 

As  the  number  of  guests  at  a  dinner-party  is  regulated  by 
the  size  of  the  table,  so  should  the  number  of  invitations  to 
a  ball  be  limited  by  the  proportions  of  the  ball-room.  A 
prudent  hostess  will  always  invite  a  few  more  guests  than  she 
really  desires  to  entertain",  in  the  certainty  that  there  will  be 
some  deserters  when  the  appointed  evening  comes  round;  but 
she  will  at  the  same  time  remember  that  to  overcrowd  her 
room  is  to  spoil  the  pleasure  of  those  who  love  dancing,  and 
that  a  party  of  this  kind  when  too  numerously  attended  is  as 
great  a'  failure  as  one  at  which  too  few  are  present. 

A  room  which  is  nearly  square,  yet  a  little  longer  than  it  is 
broad,  will  be  found  the  most  favourable  for  a  ball.  It  ad- 
mits of  two  quadrille  parties,  or  two  round  dances,  at  the 
same  time.  In  a  perfectly  square  room  this  arrangement  is 
not  so  practicable  or  pleasant.  A  very  long  and  narrow  room 
is  obviously  of  the  worst  shape  for  the  purpose  of  dancing, 
and  is  fit  only  for  quadrilles  and  country  dances. 

The  top  of  the  ball-room  is  the  part  nearest  the  orchestra. 
In  a  private  room,  the  top  is  where  it  would  be  if  the  room 
were  a  dining-room.  It  is  generally  at  the  farthest  point  from 
the  door.  Dancers  should  be  careful  to  ascertain  the  top  of 
the  room  before  taking  their  places,  as  the  top  couples  alway* 
lead  the  dances. 

A  good  floor  is  of  the  last  importance  in  a  ball-room.  In 
a  private  house,  nothing  can  be  better  than  a  smooth,  well- 
stretched  holland,  with  the  carpet  beneath. 

Abundance  of  light  and  free  ventilation  are  indispensable 
to  the  spirits  and  comfort  of  the  dancers. 

Good  music  is  as  necessary  to  the  prosperity  of  a  ball  as 


•J2  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

good  wine  to  the  excellence  of  a  dinner.  No  hostess  should 
tax  her  friends  for  this  part  of  the  entertainment.  It  is  the 
most  injudicious  economy  imaginable.  Ladies  who  would 
prefer  to  dance  are  tied  to  the  pianoforte  ;  and  as  few  ama- 
teurs have  been  trained  in  the  art  of  playing  dance  music 
•with  that  strict  attention  to  time  and  accent  which  is  abso- 
lutely necessary  to  the  comfort  of  the  dancers,  a  total  and 
general  discontent  is  sure  to  be  the  result.  To  play  dance 
music  throroughly  well  is  a  branch  of  the  art  which  requires 
considerable  practice.  It  is  as  different  from  every  other 
kind  of  playing  as  whale  fishing  is  from  fly  fishing.  Those 
who  give  private  balls  will  do  well  ever  to  bear  this  in  mind, 
and  to  provide  skilled  musicians  for  the  evening.  For  a 
small  party,  a  piano  and  cornopean  make  a  very  pleasant 
combination.  Unless  where  several  instruments  are  engaged 
we  do  not  recommend  the  introduction  of  the  violin  :  although 
in  some  respects  the  finest  of  all  solo  instruments,  it  is  apt  to 
sound  thin  and  shrill  when  employed  on  mere  inexpressive 
dance  tunes,  and  played  by  a  mere  dance  player. 

Invitations  to  a  ball  should  be  issued  in  the  name  of  the 
lady  of  the  house,  and  written  on  small  note  paper  of  the 
best  quality.  Elegant  printed  forms,  some  of  them  printed 
in  gold  or  silver,  are  to  be  had  at  every  stationer's  by  those 
who  prefer  them.  The  paper  may  be  gilt-edged,  but  not 
coloured.  The  sealing-wax  used  should  be  of  some  delicate 
hue. 

An  invitation  to  a  ball  should  be  sent  out  at  least  ten  days 
before  the  evening  appointed.  A  fortnight,  three  weeks,  and 
even  a  month  may  be  allowed  in  the  way  of  notice. 

Not  more  than  two  or  three  days  should  be  permitted  to 
elapse  before  you  reply  to  an  invitation  of  this  kind.  The 
reply  should  always  be  addressed  to  the  lady  of  the  house, 
and  should  be  couched  in  the  same  person  as  the  invitation. 
The  following  are  the  forms  generally  in  use  : — 

Mrs.  Mplyneux  requests  the  honour  of  Captain  Hamilton's  company 
at  an  evening  party,  on  Monday,  March  the  nth  instant. 
Dancing  will  begin  at  Nine  o'clock. 

Thursday,  March  ist. 


Captain  Hamilton  has  much  pleasure  in  accepting  Mrs.  Molvneux's 
polite  invitation  for  Monday  evening,  March  the  nth  instant. 

Friday,  March  2nd. 

The  old  form  of  "  presenting  compliments"  is  now  out  of 
fchion. 

If  Mrs.  Molyneux  writes  to  Captain  Hamilton  in  the  first 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  73 

person,  as  "  My  dear  Sir,"  he  is  bound  in  etiquette  to  reply 
"My  dear  Madam." 

The  lady  who  gives  a  ball*  should  endeavour  to  secure  an 
equal  number  of  dancers  of  both  sexes.  Many  private  par- 
ties are  spoiled  by  the  preponderance  of  young  ladies,  some 
of  whom  never  get  partners  at  all,  unless  they  dance  with 
each  other. 

A  room  should  in  all  cases  be  provided  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  the  ladies.  In  this  room  there  ought  to  be  several 
looking  glasses ;  attendants  to  assist  the  fair  visitors  in  the 
arrangement  of  their  hair  and  dress ;  and  some  place  in 
which  the  cloaks  and  shawls  can  be  laid  in  order,  and  found 
at  a  moment's  notice.  It  is  well  to  affix  tickets  to  the  cloaks, 
giving  a  duplicate  at  the  same  time  to  each  lady,  as  at  the 
public  theatres  and  concert-rooms.  Needles  and  thread 
should  also  be  at  hand,  to  repair  any  little  accident  incurred 
in  dancing. 

Another  room  should  be  devoted  to  refreshments,  and 
kept  amply  supplied  with  coffee,  lemonade,  ices,  wine  and 
biscuits  during  the  evening.  Where  this  cannot  be  arranged, 
the  refreshments  should  be  handed  round  between  the  dances. 

The  question  of  supper  is  one  which  so  entirely  depends 
on  the  means  of  those  who  give  a  ball  or  evening  party,  that 
very  little  can  be  said  upon  it  in  a  treatise  of  this  description. 
Where  money  is  no  object,  it  is  of  course  always  preferable 
to  have  the  whole  supper,  "with  all  appliances  and  means 
to  boot,"  sent  in  from  some  first-rate  house.  It  spares  all 
trouble  whether  to  the  entertainers  or  their  servants,  and 
relieves  the  hostess  of  every  anxiety.  Where  circumstances 
render  such  a  course  imprudent,  we  would  only  observe  that 
a  home-provided  supper,  however  simple,  should  be  good  of 
its  kind,  and  abundant  in  quantity.  Dancers  are  generally 
hungry  people,  and  feel  themselves  much  aggrieved  if  the 
supply  of  sandwiches  proves  unequal  to  the  demand.  Great 
inconvenience  is  often  experienced  by  the  difficulty  of  pro- 
curing cans  at  the  close  of  an  evening  party.  Gentlemen 
who  have  been  dancing,  and  are  unprepared  for  walking, 
object  to  go  home  on  foot,  or  seek  vehicles  for  their  wives 
and  daughters.  Female  servants  who  have  been  in  attend- 
ance upon  the  visitors  during  a  whole  evening  ought  not  to 
be  sent  out.  If  even  men-servants  are  kept,  they  may  find 
it  difficult  to  procure  as  many  cabs  as  are  necessary.  The 

*  It  will  be  understood  that  we  use  the  word  "  ball "  to  signify  a  pri« 
»atc  party,  where  there  is  dancing,  a£  well  as  a  public  ball. 


74  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

best  thing  that  the  giver  of  a  private  ball  can  do  under  these 
circumstances,  is  to  engage  a  policeman  with  a  lantern  to 
attend  on  the  pavement  during  the  evening,  and  to  give 
notice  during  the  morning  at  a  neighbouring  cab-stand,  so  as 
to  ensure  a  sufficient  number  of  vehicles  at  the  time  when 
they  are  likely  to  be  required. 


II. — BALL-ROOM  TOILETTE. 

LADIES. 

Th«  style  of  a  lady's  dress  is  a  matter  so  entirely  dependent 
on  age,  means  and  fashion,  that  we  can  offer  but  little  advice 
upon  it.  Fashion  is  so  variable,  that  statements  which  are 
true  of  it  to-day  may  be  false  a  month  hence.  Respecting 
no  institution  of  modern  society  is  it  so  difficult  to  pronounce 
half  a  dozen  permanent  rules. 

We  may  perhaps  be  permitted  to  suggest  the  following 
leading  principles  ;  but  we  do  so  with  diffidence.  Rich 
colours  harmonize  with  rich  brunette  complexions  and  dark 
hair.  Delicate  colours  are  the  most  suitable  for  delicate  and 
fragile  styles  of  beauty.  Very  young  ladies  are  never  so 
suitably  attired  as  in  white.  Ladies  who  dance  should  wear 
dresses  of  light  and  diaphanous  materials,  such  as  tulle, 
gauze,  crape,  net,  &c.,  over  coloured  silk  slips.  Silk  dresses 
are  not  suitable  for  dancing.  A  married  lady  who  dances 
only  a  few  quadrilles  may  wear  a  decolktee  silk  dress  with 
propriety. 

Very  stout  persons  should  never  wear  white.  It  has  the 
effect  of  adding  to  the  bulk  of  the  figure. 

Black  and  scarlet,  or  black  and  violet,  are  worn  in  mourn- 
ing. 

A  lady  in  deep  mourning  should  not  dance  at  all. 

However  fashionable  it  may  be  to  wear  very  long  dresses, 
those  ladies  who  go  to  a  ball  with  the  intention  of  dancing 
and  enjoying  the  dance,  should  cause  their  dresses  to  be  made 
short  enough  to  clear  the  ground .  We  would  ask  them  whether 
it  is  not  better  to  accept  this  slight  deviation  from  an  absurd 
fashion,  than  to  appear  for  three  parts  of  the  evening  in 
a  torn  and  pinned-up  skirt  ? 

Well-made  shoes,  whatever  their  colour  or  material,  and 
faultless  gloves,  are  indispensable  to  the  effect  of  a  ball-room 
toilette. 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  7$ 

Much  jewellery  is  out  of  place  in  a  ball-room.  Beautiful 
flowers,  whether  natural  or  artificial,  are  the  loveliest  orna- 
ments that  a  lady  can  wear  on  these  occasions. 

GENTLEMEN. 

A  black  suit,  thin  enamelled  boots,  a  white  neckcloth,  and 
white  or  delicate  grey  gloves,  are  the  chief  points  of  a  gentle- 
man's ball-room  toilette.  He  may  wear  an  embroidered,  shirt ; 
and  his  waistcoat  may  be  of  silk.  White  waistcoats  are  no 
longer  fashionable.  Much  display  of  jewellery  is  no  proof  of 
good  taste.  A  handsome  watch-chain,  with,  perhaps,  the  ad- 
dition of  a  few  costly  trifles  suspended  to  it,  and  a  set  of  shirt-i 
studs,  are  the  only  adornments  of  this  kind  that  a  gentleman 
should  wear.  The  studs  should  be  small,  but  good.* 

A  gentleman's  dress  is  necessarily  so  simple  that  it  admits 
of  no  compromise  in  point  of  quality  and  style.  The  material 
should  be  the  best  that  money  can  procure,  and  the  fashion 
unexceptionable.  So  much  of  the  outward  man  depends  on 
his  tailor,  that  we  would  urge  no  gentleman  to  economise  in 
this  matter. 


III. — ETIQUETTE  OF  THE  BALL-ROOM.+ 

On  entering  the  ball-room,  the  visitor  should  at  once  seek 
the  lady  of  the  house,  and  pay  his  respects  to  her.  Having 
done  this,  he  may  exchange  salutations  with  such  friends  and 
acquaintances  as  may  be  in  the  room. 

If  the  ball  be  a  public  one,  and  a  gentleman  desires  to  dance 
with  any  lady  to  whom  he  is  a  stranger,  he  must  apply  to  the 
master  of  the  ceremonies  for  an  introduction. 

Even  in  private  balls,  no  gentleman  can  invite  a  lady  to 
dance  without  a  previous  introduction.  This  introduction 
should  be  effected  through  the  lady  of  the  house,  or  a  mem- 
ber of  her  family. 

No  lady  should  accept  an  invitation  to  dance  from  a  gentle- 
man to  whom  she  has  not  been  introduced.  In  case  any  gen- 
tleman should  commit  the  error  of  so  inviting  her,  she  should 
not  excuse  herself  on  the  plea  of  a  previous  engagement,  or  of 

*  See  "Etiquette  for  Gentlemen,"  Sec.  VII. 

t  See  "  Etiquetu  for  Ladies."  and  "  Etiquette  for  Gentlemen,"  Sec. 
IX 


y6  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

fatigue,  as  to  do  so  would  imply  that  she  did  not  herself  attach 
due  importance  to  the  necessary  ceremony  of  introduction.  Her 
best  reply  would  be  to  the  effect  that  she  would  have  much 
pleasure  in  accepting  his  invitation,  if  he  would  procure  an  in- 
troduction to  her.  This  observation  may  be  taken  as  apply- 
ing only  to  public  balls.  At  a  private  party  the  host  and  hos- 
tess are  sufficient  guarantees  for  the  respectability  of  their 
guests ;  and,  although  a  gentleman  would  show  a  singular 
want  of  knowledge  of  the  laws  of  society  in  acting  as  we  have 
supposed,  the  lady  who  should  reply  to  him  as  if  he  were 
merely  an  impertinent  stranger  in  a  public  assembly-room, 
would  be  implying  an  affront  to  her  entertainers.  The  mere 
fact  of  being  assembled  together  under  the  roof  of  a  mutual 
"friend,  is  in  itself  a  kind  of  general  introduction  of  the  guests 
to  each  other. 

An  introduction  given  for  the  mere  purpose  of  enabling  a 
lady  and  gentleman  to  go  through  a  dance  together,  does  not 
constitute  an  acquaintanceship.  The  lady  is  at  liberty  to  pass 
the  gentleman  in  the  park  the  next  day  without  recognition. 

No  gentleman  should  venture  to  bow  to  a  lady  upon  the 
strength  of  a  ball-room  introduction,  unless  she  does  him  the 
honour  to  recognize  him  first.  If  he  commits  this  solecism  he 
must  not  be  surprised  to  find  that  she  does  not  return  his  salu- 
tation. 

No  gentleman  should  accept  an  invitation  to  a  ball  if  he 
does  not  dance.  When  ladies  are  present  who  would  be 
pleased  to  receive  an  invitation,  those  gentleman  who  hold 
themselves  aloof  are  guilty,  not  only  of  a  negative,  but  a  posi- 
tive act  of  neglect. 

To  attempt  to  dance  without  a  knowledge  of  dancing  is  not 
only  to  make  one's  self  ridiculous,  but  one's  partner  also.  No 
lady  or  gentleman  has  the  right  to  place  a  partner  in  this  ab- 
surd position. 

Never  forget  a  ball-room  engagement  To  do  so  is  to  com- 
mit an  unpardonable  offence  against  good  breeding. 

It  is  not  necessary  that  a  lady  or  gentleman  should  be  ac- 
quainted with  the  steps,  in  order  to  walk  gracefully  and  easily 
through  a  quadrille .  An  easy  carriage  and  a  knowledge  of  the 
figure  is  all  that  is  requisite.  A  round  dance,  however,  should 
on  no  account  be  attemped  without  a  thorough  knowledge  of 
the  steps,  and  some  previous  practice. 

No  person  who  has  not  a  good  ear  for  time  and  tune  need 
hope  to  dance  well. 

At  the  conclusion  of  a  dance,  the  gentleman  bows  to  his 
partner,  and  either  promenades  with  her  round  the  room,  or 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  ft 

takes  her  to  a  seat.  Where  a  room  is  set  apart  for  refresh- 
ments, he  offers  to  conduct  her  thither.  At  a  public  hall  no 
gentleman  would,  of  course,  permit  a  lady  to  pay  for  refresh- 
ments. 

No  lady  should  accept  refreshments  from  a  stranger  at  a 
public  ball ;  for  she  would  thereby  lay  herself  under  a 
pecuniary  obligation.  For  these  she  must  rely  on  her  father, 
brothers,  or  old  friends. 

Good  taste  forbids  that  a  lady  and  gentleman  should  dance 
too  frequently  together  at  either  a  public  or  private  ball. 
Engaged  persons  should  be  careful  not  to  commit  this  con- 
spicuous solecism. 

Engagements  for  one  dance  should  not  be  made  while  the 
present  dance  is  yet  in  progress. 

If  a  lady  happens  to  forget  a  previous  engagement,  and  stand 
up  with  another  partner,  the  genueman  whom  she  has  thus 
slighted  is  bound  to  believe  that  she  has  acted  from  mere  in- 
advertence, and  should  by  no  means  suffer  his  pride  to  master 
his  good  temper.  To  cause  a  disagreeable  scene  in  a  private 
ball-room  is  to  affront  your  host  and  hostess,  and  to  make 
yourself  absurd.  In  a  public  room  it  is  no  less  reprehensible. 
Always  remember  that  good  breeding  and  good  temper  (or 
the  appearance  of  good  temper)  are  inseparably  connected. 

Young  gentlemen  are  earnestly  advised  not  to  limit  their 
conversation  to  remarks  on  the  weather  and  the  heat  of  the 
room.  It  is,  to  a  certain  extent,  incumbent  on  them  to  do 
something  more  than  dance  when  they  invite  a  lady  to  join  a 
quadrille.  If  it  be  only  upon  the  news  of  the  day,  a  gentle- 
man should  be  able  to  offer  at  least  three  or  four  observations 
to  his  partner  in  the  course  of  a  long  half-hour. 

Gentlemen  who  dance  cannot  be  too  careful  not  to  injure 
the  dresses  of  the  ladies  who  do  them  the  honour  to  stand  up 
with  them.  The  young  men  of  the  present  day  are  singularly 
careless  in  this  respect ;  and  when  they  have  torn  a  lady's 
delicate  skirt,  appear  to  think  the  mischief  they  have  done 
scarcely  worth  the  trouble  of  an  apology. 

A  gentleman  conducts  his  last  partner  to  the  supper-room, 
and,  having  waited  upon  her  while  there,  re-conducts  her  to 
the  ball-room.  Never  attempt  to  take  a  place  in  a  dance  which 
has  been  previously  engaged. 

Withdraw  from  a  private  ball-room  as  quietly  as  possible, 
so  that  your  departure  may  not  be  observed  by  others,  and 
cause  the  party  to  break  up.  If  you  meet  the  lady  of  the 
house  on  her  way  out,  take  }  wr  leave  of  her  in  such  a  manner 


78  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

that  her  other  guests  may  not  suppose  you  are  doing  so  j  but 
do  not  seek  her  out  for  that  purpose. 

Never  be  seen  without  gloves  in  a  ball-room,  though  it  were 
only  for  a  few  moments.  Those  who  dance  much  and  are 
particularly  soignJ  in  matters  relating  to  the  toilette,  take  a 
second  pair  of  gloves  to  replace  the  first  when  soiled. 

A  thoughtful  hostess  will  never  introduce  a  bad  dancer  to  a 
good  one,  because  she  has  no  right  to  punish  one  friend  in 
order  to  oblige  another. 

It  is  not  customary  for  married  persons  to  dance  together  in 
society. 


IV. — THE  QUADRILLE. 

The  Quadrille  is  the  most  universal,  as  it  is  certainly  the 
most  sociable,  of  all  fashionable  dances.  It  admits  of  pleasant 
conversation,  frequent  interchange  of  partners,  and  is  adapted 
to  every  age.  The  young  or  old,  the  ponderous  fiaitrfamitias 
or  his  sylph-like  daughter,  may  with  equal  propriety  take  part 
in  its  easy  and  elegant  figures.  Even  an  occasional  blunder 
is  of  less  consequence  in  this  dance  than  in  many  others  ;  for 
each  personage  is  in  some  degree  free  as  to  his  own  move- 
ments, not  being  compelled  by  the  continual  embrace  of  his 
partner  to  dance  either  better  or  worse  than  he  may  find  con- 
venient. 

People  now  generally  walk  through  a  quadrille.  Nothing 
more  than  a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  figure,  a  graceful  demean- 
our, and  a  correct  ear  for  the  time  of  the  music  are  requisite 
to  enable  any  one  to  take  a  creditable  part  in  this  dance. 
Steps  are  quite  gone  out  of  fashion  :  even  the  chasse  has  been 
given  up  for  some  time  past. 

A  quadrille  must  always  consist  of  five  parts.  If  a  varia- 
tion be  made  in  the  fourth  figure,  by  the  substitution  of  Pas- 
torale for  Trenise,  the  latter  must  then  be  omitted ;  or  vice- 
versd.  As  soon  as  a  gentleman  has  engaged  his  partner  for 
the  quadrille,  he  should  endeavour  to  secure  as  his  vis-a-vis 
some  friend  or  acquaintance  ;  and  should  then  lead  his  partner 
to  the  top  of  the  quadrille,  provided  that  post  of  honour  be 
still  vacant.  He  will  place  the  lady  always  at  his  right  hand. 

Quadrille  music  is  divided  into  eight  bars  for  each  part  of 
the  figure  ;  two  steps  should  be  taken  in  every  bar ;  every 
movement  thus  invariably  consists  of  eight  or  of  four  steps. 

It  is  well  not  to  learn  too  many  new  figures  :  the  memory 
is  liable  to  become  confused  amongst  them ;  besides  which,  it 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  79 

is  doubtful  whether  your  partner,  or  your  vis-a-vis,  is  as 
learned  in  the  matter  as  yourself:  Masters  are  extremely  fond 
of  inventing  and  teaching  new  figures;  but  you  will  do  well  to 
confine  your  attention  to  a  few  simple  and  universally  received 
sets,  which  you  will  find  quite  sufficient  for  your  purpose.  We 
begin  with  the  oldest  and  most  common,  the 

FIRST  SET  OF  QUADRILLES. 

Jfiwt  Centre.—  |E.e  $;wtitl0tt. 


The  couples  at  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  quadrille  cross  to 
each  other  s  places  in  eight  steps,  occupying  four  bars  of  the 
time  ;  then  re-cross  immediately  to  their  own  places,  which 
completes  the  movement  of  eight  bars.  This  is  called  the 
C/iaine  Anglaise.  The  gentleman  always  keeps  to  the  right  of 
vis-a-vis  lady  in  crossing,  thus  placing  her  inside. 

Set  to  partners,  or  balancez  ;  turn  your  partners.  (This 
occupies  the  second  eight  bars.  )  Ladies,  chain,  or  chaine  des 
dames.  (Eight  bars  more.  )  Each  couple  crosses  to  opposite 
couple's  place,  gentleman  giving  his  hand  to  his  partner  :  this 
is  called  half-promenade.  Couples  recross  right  and  left  to 
their  places,  without  giving  hands,  which  completes  another 
eight  bars,  and  ends  the  figure. 

The  side  couples  repeat  what  the  top  and  bottom  couples 
have  done. 


The  ladies  in  all  the  top  couples,  and  their  vis-h-vis  gentle* 
men,  advance  four  steps,  and  retire  the  same,  repeating  this 
movement  once  again,  which  makes  the  first  eight  bars. 

Top  ladies  and  vis-d-vis  gentlemen  cross  to  each  other's 
places  ;  advance  four  steps  ;  retreat  ditto  ;  cross  back  towards 
partners,  who  set  to  them  as  tlrey  advance  ;  turn  partners  ; 
which  ends  first  half  of  figure. 

Second  ladies  and  top  vis-h-iis  gentlemen  execute  the  same 
movements.  Then  side  couples  begin,  the  privilege  of  com- 
mencement being  conferred  on  those  ladies  who  stand  at  the 
right  of  the  top  couples. 

This  figure  is  sometimes  performed  in  a  different  manner, 
known  as  double  L'Ett.  Instead  of  the  top  lady  and  vis-a-vii 
gentleman  advancing  alone,  they  advance  with  partners  join- 
ing hands  ;  cross  and  return,  as  in  the  single  figure.  This 
variation  is,  however,  somewjia.t  out  of  vogue,  except  (as  will 


So  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

presently  be  seen)  in  the  last  figure  of  the  quadrille,  where  H 
is  still  frequently  introduced. 


Top  lady  and  vis-a-vis  gentleman  cross  to  each  other's 
places,  giving  right  hand  in  passing  ;  cross  back  again  with 
left  hand.  (Eight  bars.)  The  two  couples  form  in  a  line, 
and  join  hands,  the  left  hand  of  one  holding  the  right  hand  of 
his  or  her  neighbour,  so  that  each  faces  different  ways  ;  in 
this  position  all  four  balancez,  then  half  promenade  with 
partner  to  opposite  place  ;  top  lady  and  vis-a-vis  gentleman 
advance  four  steps  and  retire  ditto.  (2nd  eight  bars.)  Both 
top  and  bottom  couples  advance  together,  and  retire  the 
same  ;  then  re-cross  right  and  left  to  places.  (3rd  eight 
bars.)  Second  lady  and  first  opposite  gentleman  repeat 
figure.  Side  couples  repeat,  observing  same  rule  for  com- 
mencement as  in  L'Ete. 


Top  couples  join  hands,  advance  four  steps  and  retreat 
ditto  :  advance  again,  gentleman  leaving  lady  at  left  hand  of 
vis-a-vis  gentleman,  and  retiring  alone,  (ist  eight  bars.) 
Two  ladies  advance,  crossing  to  opposite  side  ;  gentleman 
advances  to  meet  his  partner,  vis-a-zt's  lady  returns  to  hers. 
(and  eight  bars.)  Balancez  ;  turn  partners  to  places.  (3rd 
eight  bars.  )  Second  couple  performs  same  figure  ;  side 
couples  repeat  as  before. 

If  La  Pastorale  be  preferred,  it  will  be  performed  thus  :  — 
Top  couple  advance  and  retreat  ;  advance,  gentleman  leading 
lady  to  left  hand  of  vis-a-vis  gentleman  ;  he  advances  with 
both  ladies  four  steps,  retreating  ditto  ;  again  advancing,  he 
leaves  both  ladies  with  first  gentleman,  retreating  alone  ;  top 
gentleman  and  both  ladies  advance  and  retreat  ;  again  ad- 
vance, joining  hands  in  circle,  go  half  round,  half  promenade 
to  opposite  places,  then  return  right  and  left  to  their  own, 
Second  couples  and  side  couples  repeat  as  before. 


Begin  with  the  grand  rond  or  great  round  ;  that  is,  the 
whole  quadrille;  first  and  second  couples  and  sides  join  hands 
all  round,  advance  four  steps,  and  retreat  ditto.  VEtt  is  now 
sometimes  introduced,  the  grand  rond  being  repeated  between 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  Si 

each  division  of  the  figure.  But  it  gives  a  greater  variety  and 
brio  to  the  quadrille  if,  after  the  first  grand  rond,  the  follow- 
ing figure  be  performed,  the  galop  step  being  used  throughout. 
Each  gentleman  (at  top  and  bottom  couples)  takes  his  lady 
round  the  waist,  as  for  the  galop  ;  advance  four  steps,  retreat 
ditto,  advance  again,  cross  to  opposite  places ;  advance,  re- 
treat, re-cross  to  own  places.  Ladies  chain  ;  half  promenade 
across ;  half  right  and  left  to  places ;  grand  rond.  Side 
couples  repeat  figure.  Grand  rond  between  each  division  and 
at  the  conclusion.  Bow  to  your  partners,  and  conduct  your 
lady  to  seat. 


V. — THE  CALEDONIANS. 

This  quadrille  has,  within  the  last  few  years  become  more 
fashionable  than  formerly.  But  it  is  not  so  frequently  danced 
as  the  Lancers,  still  less  as  the  First  Set  of  Quadrilles.  Each 
set  can  consist  only  of  eight  couples,  differing  in  this  respect 
from  the  simple  quadrille,  which  admits  of  an  indefinite 
number  of  couples. 

ist  Figure. — Top  and  opposite  couples  hands  across  ;  then 
back  again  ;  balancez  and  turn  partners  ;  chaine  des  dames ; 
half  promenade  across  ;  half  right  and  left  to  places. 

2«./  figure. — Top  gentleman  advances  and  retreats  twice. 
Balancez  to  corners  and  turn,  each  lady  passing  to  her  next 
neighbour's  pkce.  Having  changed  your  partner,  all  pro- 
menade quite  round.  Second,  third,  and  fourth  gentleman 
repeat  same  figure  ;  thus  all  have  regained  their  places. 

yd  Figure. — Top  lady  and  vis-a-vis  gentleman  advance  and 
retreat  twice. 

Top  couple  join  hands  and  cross  over ;  opposite  couple 
cross  likewise,  separately,  allowing  top  couple  to  pass  be- 
tween them  ;  then  top  couple  re-cross  to  places  separately, 
leaving  the  second  couple  (who  re-cross  with  joined  hands) 
inside. 

Balancez  to  corners  and  turn  your  neighbour's  partner ; 
back  to  places.  All  four  couples,  joining  hands  in  circle,  ad- 
vance and  retreat  twice.  Same  figure  repeated  by  second 
and  side  couples. 

a,th  Figure. — Top  lady  and  vis-a-vis  gentleman  advance 
four  steps  ;  second  lady  and  her  vis-a-vis  then  do  the  same  ; 
each  couple  turns  partner  back  to  places.  Ladies  in  all  four 


fe  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

couples  move  four  steps  to  the  right,  each  taking  her  neigh- 
bour's place;  gentlemen  then  move  four  steps  to  the  left, 
each  into  next  neighbour's  place.  Ladies  again  to  the  right ; 
gentlemen  again  to  the  left.  Promenade  round,  turn  partners 
to  places.  Second  and  side  couples  repeat  in  succession. 

5/4  Figure. — First  couple  promenade  round  inside  the 
quadrille.  Four  ladies  advance,  courtesy  to  each  other,  and 
retire ;  four  gentlemen  advance,  bow,  and  retire.  Balanca 
and  turn  partners.  Grand  chain  half  way  round.  All  pro- 
menade to  places,  and  turn  partners.  All  chassa  crmsex, 
ladies  right,  gentlemen  left  (behind  their  partners),  and  back 
again  to  places.  Second  and  side  couples  repeat  as  before. 
Promenade  all  round  far  finale. 


VI. — THE  LANCERS. 

The  Lancers  Quadrille  is  perhaps  the  most  graceful  and 
animated  of  any.  Within  the  last  few  years  it  has  become  a 
great  favourite  in  fashionable  circles,  probably  owing  to  its 
revival  at  the  state  balls  of  Her  Majesty.  It  admits  of  much 
skill  and  elegance  in  executing  its  quick  and  varied  figures,  a 
correct  acquaintance  with  which  is  absolutely  requisite  to  all 
who  take  part  in  it  Unlike  the  common  quadrille,  the 
Lancers  must  be  danced  by  four  couples  only  in  each  set ; 
though  of  course  there  can  be  many  sets  dancing  at  the  same 
time.  The  number  being  so  limited,  one  awkward  or  ignorant 
person  confuses  the  whole  set ;  therefore,  it  is  indispensable 
that  every  one  who  dances  in  this  quadrille  should  have  a 
thorough  mastery  of  its  graceful  intricacies.  We  have  ob- 
served that  of  late  it  has  become  the  fashion  to  substitute  new 
tunes  for  the  old  well-known  music  of  the  Lancers  Quadrille. 
We  cannot  consider  this  an  improvement.  The  old  simple 
melodies  are  peculiarly  fitted  to  the  sprightly,  joyous  cha- 
racter of  the  dance ;  which  is  more  than  can  be  said  for  any  of 
the  modern  substitutes.  When  these  are  used,  the  Lancers,  in 
our  opinion,  loses  its  individuality  and  spirit,  becoming 
almost  like  a  common  quadrille.  We  should  be  heartily  glad 
to  see  the  old  tones  restored  once  for  all  to  their  rightful 
supremacy. 

The  sets  of  four  couples,  top,  opposite  and  sides,  having 
been  arranged,  the  dance  begins  as  follows  : — 

1st  Figure* — First  lady  and  opposite  gentleman  advance 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  83 

and  retreat ;  advance  again,  joining  their  hands ;  pass  round 
each  other  and  back  to  places,  (ist  eight  bars.)  Top  couple 
join  hands,  and  cross,  opposite  couple  crossing  at  the  same 
time,  separately,  outside  them ;  the  same  reversed,  back  to 
places.  (2nd  eight  bars. )  All  the  couples  balancez  to  corners  ; 
each  gentleman  turns  his  neighbour's  partner  back  to  places. 
(3rd  eight  bars. )  Second  couple  repeat  figure  from  beginning ; 
after  them  side  couples,  those  who  stand  to  the  right  of  top 
couple  having  always  the  priority,  as  in  the  common  quad- 
rille. 

2nd  Figure. — First  couple  advance  and  retreat,  gentleman 
holding  lady's  left  hand ;  advance  again ;  gentleman  leaves 
his  partner  in  the  centre  of  the  quadrille,  and  retires  to  place, 
(ist  eight  bars.)  Balancez  to  each  other  and  turn  to  places. 
(2nd  eight  bars.)  Side  couples  join  first  and  second  couples, 
forming  a  line  of  four  on  either  side.  Each  line  advances  four 
steps,  retreats  ditto  ;  then  advances  again,  each  gentleman  re- 
claiming his  partner,  and  all  turn  to  places.  Second  and  side 
couples  repeat  figure  in  succession. 

yd  figure. — First  lady  advances  four  steps  alone,  and 
stops  ;  vis-a-vis  gentleman  does  the  same  j  first  lady  retires, 
facing  gentleman,  to  whom  she  makes  a  slow  profound 
courtesy.  (The  courtesy  must  occupy  a  bar  or  two  of  the 
music ;  and  as,  if  made  with  grace  and  dignity,  it  is  most 
effective,  we  would  recommend  ladies  to  practise  it  carefully 
beforehand. )  The  gentleman  at  the  same  time  bows  and  re- 
tires, (ist  eight  bars.)  All  four  ladies  advance  to  centre, 
give  right  hands  across  to  each  other  (which  is  called  the 
double  chain),  and  left  hand  to  vis-a-vis  gentleman ;  then  back 
again,  left  hands  across  in  the  middle,  and  right  hands  to 
partners,  back  to  places.  (2nd  eight  bars.)  Second  and 
side  couples  repeat  figure  from  commencement. 

A  more  recent  fashion  for  dancing  this  figure  is  as  follows  : 
— Instead  of  one  lady  advancing  at  first,  all  four  advance, 
and  courtesy  to  each  other ;  then  turn  and  courtesy  to  their 
partners.  Ladies  do  the  moulinet  in  the  centre  ;  that  is,  give 
right  hands  across  to  each  other,  and  half  round  ;  left  hands 
back  again,  and  return  to  places.  Gentlemen  meantime  all 
move  round  outside  the  ladies,  till  each  has  regained  his 
place.  Figure,  as  usual,  repeated  four  times  ;  but  the  second 
and  fourth  time  the  gentlemen  advance  instead  of  the  ladies, 
and  bow,  first  to  each  other,  then  to  their  partners  ;  continu- 
ing as  before  through  the  rest  of  the  figure. 

ajh  Figure. — Top  gentleman,  taking  partner's  left  hand, 
leads  her  to  the  couple  on  their  right,  to  whom  they  bow  and 


84  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

courtesy  (which  civility  must  be  met  with  the  like  acknow- 
ledgment), then  cross  quickly  to  fourth  couple,  and  do  the 
same.  (1st  eight  bars. )  All  four  couples  chassez  croisez  right 
and  left  (gentleman  invariably  passing  behind  his  partner) 
then  turn  hands  (tour  des  mains)  back  to  places.  (2nd  eight 
bars. )  First  and  opposite  couples  right  and  left  across  and 
\>ack  again  to  places.  (3rd  eight  bars. )  Second  and  sides 
fcpeat  as  usual. 

5/A  Figure. — This  figure  commences  with  the  music.  Each 
couple  should  stand  ready,  the  gentleman  facing  his  partner, 
his  right  hand  holding  hers.  If  every  one  does  not  start 
directly  the  music  begins,  and  does  not  observe  strict  time 
throughout,  this  somewhat  intricate  figure  becomes  hope- 
lessly embarrassed  ;  but,  when  well  danced,  it  is  the  prettiest 
of  the  set.  It  commences  with  \htgrande  chaine  all  round  ; 
each  gentleman  giving  his  right  hand  to  his  partner  at  start- 
ing, his  left  to  the  next  lady,  then  his  right  again,  and  so  all 
round,  till  all  have  returned  to  their  places.  (This  occupies 
sixteen  bars  of  the  music. )  First  couple  promenade  inside 
figure,  returning  to  places  with  their  backs  turned  to  opposite 
couple.  The  side  couple  on  their  right  falls  in  immediately 
behind  them  ;  the  fourth  couple  follows,  the  second  couple 
remaining  in  their  places.  A  double  line  is  thus  formed — 
ladies  on  one  side  and  gentlemen  on  the  other.  (3rd  eight 
bars.)  All  chassez  croisez,  ladies  left,  gentlemen  right,  behind 
partners.  First  lady  leads  off,  turning  sharply  round  to  the 
right ;  first  gentleman  does  the  same  to  the  left,  meeting  at 
the  bottom  of  the  quadrille,  and  promenade  back  to  places. 
All  the  ladies  follow  first  lady  ;  all  the  gentlemen  follow  first 
gentleman  ;  and  as  each  meets  his  partner  at  the  bottom  oi 
the  figure,  they  touch  hands,  then  fall  back  in  two  lines — • 
ladies  on  one  side,  gentlemen  on  the  other — facing  each  other. 
(4th  eight  bars.)  Four  ladies  join  hands,  ad  stance  and  re- 
treat ;  four  gentlemen  ditto  at  the  same  time ;  then  each 
turns  his  partner  to  places.  (5th  eight  bars.)  Grande  chaine 
again.  Second  and  side  couples  repeat  the  whole  figure  in 
succession,  each  couple  taking  its  turn  to  lead  off,  as  the  first 
had  done.  Grande  chaine  between  each  figure  and  in  con* 
elusion. 


HALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  8$ 


VII.— THE  LANCERS  FOR  SIXTEEN,  OR  DOUBLE 
LANCERS. 

Irt  Figttre. — Two  first  ladies  and  vis-a-vis  gentlemen  begin 
at  the  same  moment,  and  go  through  the  figure  as  in  Single 
Lancers.  All  balancez  to  corners  ;  in  other  words,  each  lady 
sets  to  gentleman  at  her  right,  who  turns  her  to  her  place. 
Second  couples  and  sides  repeat  as  usual. 

2nd  Figure. — First  couples  advance,  retreat,  advance  again, 
leaving  ladies  in  centre  ;  set  to  partners  and  turn  to  places. 
Two  side  couples  nearest  first  couples  join  them ;  two  side 
couples  nearest  second  couples  do  the  same,  thus  forming 
eight  in  each  line.  They  all  advance  and  retreat,  holding 
hands,  then  turn  partners  to  places.  Repeated  by  second 
and  side  couples  as  usual. 

yd  Figure.— First  ladies  advance  and  stop  ;  vis-h-vis  gen- 
tlemen ditto  ;  courtesy  profoundly,  bow,  and  back  to  places. 
Ladies  do  the  tnoiilinct,  gentlemen  go  round  outside,  and 
back  to  places.  Or,  ladies  advance  and  courtesy  to  each 
other  and  then  to  partners  ;  gentlemen  doing  the  same  when 
the  second  and  fourth  couples  begin  the  figure,  as  in  Single 
Lancers. 

4//4  Figure. — First  couples  advance  to  couples  on  their 
right ;  bow  and  courtesy  ;  cross  to  opposite  side,  bow  and 
courtesy,  chasscz  croisez,  and  return  to  places.  Right  and 
left  to  opposite  places,  and  back  again.  Second  couples  and 
sides  repeat  figure. 

5/7*  Mgiirc. — Grande  chaine  all  round,  pausing  at  the  end 
of  every  eight  bars  to  bow  and  courtesy ;  continue  chaine 
back  to  places,  which  will  occupy  altogether  thirty-two  bars 
of  the  music.  Figure  almost  the  same  as  in  Single  Lancers. 
Doth  first  couples  lead  round,  side  couples  falling  in  behind, 
thus  forming  four  sets  of  lines.  Figure  repeated  by  second 
and  side  couples;  gtande chaine  between  each  figure  and  at 
the  conclusion. 


VIII.— COULON'S  DOUBLE  QUADRILLE. 

This  quadrille  contains  the  same  figures  as  the  common 
quadrille,  but  so  arranged  that  they  are  danced  by  four  in- 
stead of  two  couples.  All  quadrille  music  suits  it;  and  it 


86  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

occupies  just  half  the  time  of  the  old  quadrille.  It  makes 
an  agreeable  variety  in  the  movements  of  the  dance,  and  is 
easily  learnt.  It  requires  four  couples. 


First  and  second  couples  right  and  left,  whilst  side  couples 
dance  the  chaine  Anglaise  outside  them.  All  four  couples  set 
to  partners  and  turn  them.  Four  ladies  form  ladies'  chain, 
or  hands  across  in  the  middle  of  the  figure,  giving  first  right 
hands,  and  then  left,  back  to  places.  Half  promenade,  first 
and  second  couples  do  chaine  Anglaise,  while  side  couples  do 
grand  chaine  round  them.  This  leaves  all  in  their  right 
places,  and  ends  figure. 

(Second  ^figure.—  |£'<gi«. 

First  lady,  and  lady  on  her  right  hand,  perform  the  figure 
with  their  vis-a-vis  gentlemen,  as  in  common  L'Ete  ;  taking 
care,  when  they  cross,  to  make  a  semicircle  to  the  left. 
Second  couple  and  second  side  couple  repeat  figure,  as  in 
common  L'Ete. 


Top  lady  and  vis-a-vis  gentleman,  lady  at  her  right,  and 
her  opposite  gentleman,  perform  figure  at  the  same  time,  set- 
ting to  each  other  in  two  cross  lines.  Other  couples  follow 
as  usual. 

t^ottttk  (^figure.—  |E*  pastorale. 

The  first  and  opposite  couples  dance  the  figure,  not  with 
each  other,  but  with  the  couples  to  their  right.  The  latter  do 
the  same  with  first  and  second  couples. 


Galopade  all  round.  Top  and  opposite  couples  galopade 
forwards,  and  retreat.  As  they  retreat  side  couples  advance  ; 
and,  as  they  retreat  in  their  turn,  first  and  second  couples 
galopade  to  each  others  place.  Side  couples  the  same.  First 
and  second  couples  advance  again  ;  side  couples  the  same  as  the 
others  retreat  ;  first  and  second  back  to  places  as  side  couples 
retreat.  Side  couples  back  to  places.  Double  chaine  des 
dames,  and  galopade  all  round.  Then  side  couples  repeat 
figure  as  usual,  and  galop  all  round  in  conclusion. 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  87 

It  is  requisite  to  keep  correct    time  and  step    in    this 
quadrille,  which  would  otherwise  become  much  confused. 


IX. — THE  POLKA. 

The  origin  of  this  once  celebrated  dance  is  difficult  to  ascer* 
lain.  It  is  believed  by  some  to  be  of  great  antiquity,  and  to 
have  been  brought  into  Germany  from  the  East.  Others  affirm 
that  its  origin  is  of  more  recent  date,  and  its  birthplace  con- 
siderably nearer  home.  An  authority  on  these  matters  re- 
marks ;  "  In  spite  of  what  those  professors  say  who  proclaim 
themselves  to  have  learnt  the  Polka  in  Germany,  or  as  being 
indebted  for  it  to  a  Hungarian  nobleman,  we  are  far  from 
placing  confidence  in  their  assertions.  In  our  opinion  Paris  is 
its  birthplace,  and  its  true  author,  undoubtedly,  the  now  far- 
famed  Monsieur  Cellarius,  for  whom  this  offspring  of  his  genius 
has  gained  a  European  celebrity." 

Whatever  we  may  be  inclined  to  believe  with  regard  to  this 
disputed  question,  there  can  be  no  doubt  of  the  wide-spread 
popularity  which  for  many  years  was  enjoyed  by  the  Polka. 
When  first  introduced,  in  1843,  it  was  received  with  en- 
thusiasm by  every  capital  in  Europe  ;  and  it  effected  a  com- 
plete revolution  in  the  style  of  dancing  which  had  prevailed 
up  to  that  period.  A  brisk,  lively  character  was  imparted 
even  to  the  steady-going  quadrille ;  the  old  Valse  a  Trois 
Temps  was  pronounced  insufferably  "  slow  ;"  and  its  brilliant 
rival,  the  Valse  a  Deux  Temps,  which  had  been  recently  in- 
troduced, at  once  established  the  supremacy  which  it  has  ever 
since  maintained.  The^w/0/,  which  had  been  until  this  period 
only  an  occasional  dance,  now  assumed  a  prominent  post  in 
every  ball-room,  dividing  the  honours  with  the  valse. 

But  all  these  dances,  though  modified  in  character  by  the 
introduction  of  the  Polka,  were  for  a  time  thrown  into  the 
shade  by  this  new  claimant  upon  public  favour.  Its  popularity 
was  unrivalled  in  the  annals  of  dancing.  Rich  and  poor, 
young  and  old,  grave  and  gay,  all  were  alike  smitten  by  the 
universal  Polka  mania.  All  flocked  to  take  lessons  in  this 
new  and  fascinating  dance  ;  and  the  professors  of  its  mysteries 
fairly  divided  public  attention  with  the  members  of  the  Anti- 
Corn-Law  League,  then  holding  their  meetings  at  Drury  Lane 
Theatre.  We  will  even  go  so  far  as  to  say  that  Messrs.  Bright 
and  Cobden  were  scarcely  more  anxious  to  destroy  the  vexa- 


88  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

tious  Corn  Laws  than  were  these  worthy  Polka-maniacs  to  cre- 
ate corn  laws  of  their  own,  which,  if  more  innocent,  were 
equally  undesirable. 

For  many  years  the  Polka  maintained  its  position  as  the 
universal  favourite;  but,  during  the  last  five  or  six  seasons,  its 
popularity  has  slowly  but  surely  declined.  It  is  never  danced 
now  in  the  ball-rooms  of  the  aristocracy,  but  the  middle 
classes  have  not  yet  quite  discarded  their  old  friend,  though 
even  amongst  their  programmes  its  name  rarely  occurs. 

Perhaps  no  dance  affords  greater  facilities  for  the  display 
of  ignorance  or  skill,  elegance  or  vulgarity,  than  the  Polka. 
The  step  is  simple  and  easily  acquired,  but  the  method  of 
dancing  it  varies  ad  ittfinittim.  Some  persons  race  and  romp 
through  the  dance  in  a  manner  fatiguing  to  themselves  and 
dangerous  to  their  fellow-dancers.  Others  (though  this  is 
more  rare)  drag  their  partner  listlessly  along,  with  a  sovereign 
contempt  alike  for  the  requirements  of  the  time  and  the  spirit 
of  the  music.  Some  gentlemen  hold  their  partner  so  tight 
that  she  is  half  suffocated  ;  others  hold  her  so  loosely  that  she 
continually  slips  away  from  them.  All  these  extremes  are 
equally  objectionable,  and  defeat  the  graceful  intention  of  the 
dance.  It  should  be  performed  quietly,  but  with  spirit,  and 
always  in  strict  lime.  The  head  and  shoulders  should  be  kept 
still,  not  jerked  and  turned  at  every  step,  as  is  the  manner  of 
some.  The  feet  should  glide  swiftly  along  the  floor— not  hop- 
ping or  jumping  as  if  the  boards  were  red-hot. 

You  should  clasp  your  partner  lightly  but  firmly  round  the 
waist  with  your  right  arm. 

Your  left  hand  takes  her  right  hand  ;  but  beware  of  elevat- 
ing your  arm  and  hers  in  the  air,  or  holding  them  out  straight, 
which  suggests  the  idea  of  windmills. 

Above  all,  never  place  your  left  hand  on  your  hip  or  be- 
hind you.  In  the  first  place,  you  thus  drag  your  partner  too 
much  forward,  which  makes  her  look  ungraceful ;  in  the  next, 
this  attitude  is  never  used  except  in  casinos,  and  it  is  almost  an 
insult  to  introduce  it  in  a  respectable  ball-room. 

Let  the  hand  which  clasps  your  partner's  fall  easily  by  your 
side  in  a  natural  position,  and  keep  it  there.  Your  partner's 
left  hand  rests  on  your  right  shoulder ;  her  right  arm  is  thrown 
a  little  forward  towards  your  left. 

The  Polka  is  danced  in  £  time.  There  are  three  steps  in 
each  bar  ;  the  fourth  beat  is  always  a  rest.  The  rhythm  of 
the  dance  may  be  thus  indicated  : — 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  89 


the  three  steps  being  performed  on  the  three  first  beats  of 
every  bar.  It  is  next  to  impossible  to  describe  in  words  the 
step  of  the  Polka,  or  of  any  circular  dance  .-  nothing  but  ex- 
ample can  correctly  teach  it ;  and,  although  we  shall  do  our 
best  to  be  as  clear  as  possible,  we  would  earnestly  recommend 
those  of  our  readers  who  desire  to  excel,  whether  in  this  or  the 
following  dances,  to  take  a  few  lessons  from  some  competent 
instructor. 

The  gentleman  starts  with  his  left  foot,  the  lady  with  her 
right.  We  shall  describe  the  step  as  danced  by  the  gentle- 
man :  the  same  directions,  reversing  the  order  of  the  feet,  will 
apply  to  the  lady. 

isf  beat. — Spring  slightly  on  right  foot,  at  the  same  tare 
slide  left  foot  forward. 

2nd  beat. — Bring  right  foot  forward  by  glissade,  at  the 
same  time  rising  left  foot. 

yd  beat. — Bring  left  foot  slightly  forward  andy<z//upon  it, 
leaving  right  foot  raised,  and  the  knee  slightly  bent,  ready  to 
begin  the  step  at  the  first  beat  of  the  next  bar. 

4///  beat. — Remain  on  left  foot.  Begin  next  bar  with  the 
right  foot,  and  repeat  the  step  to  end  of  third  beat.  Begin 
the  following  bar  with  left  foot;  and  so  on;  commencing 
each  bar  wfth  right  or  left  foot  alternately. 

The  Polka  is  danced  with  a  circular  movement,  like  the 
Valse  ;  in  each  bar  you  half  turn,  so  that,  by  the  end  of  the 
second  bar,  you  have  brought  your  partner  completely 
round. 

It  was  at  first  customary  to  promenade  your  partner  round 
the  room,  doing  a  kind  of  balances  to  each  other  in  the  Pclka 
step  before  commencing  the  valse  figure.  But  this  fashion 
soon  became  antiquated,  and  has  fallen  into  complete  disuse. 

The  circular  movement  of  the  Polka  admits  of  two  direc- 
tions—  from  right  or  left  or  from  left  to  right.  The  ordinary 
direction  is  from  right  to  left.  The  opposite  one  is  known  as 
the  reverse  step.  It  is  more  difficult  to  execute,  but  is  a  plea- 
sant change  for  skilled  dancers,  if  they  have  become  giddy 
from  turning  too  long  in  one  direction. 

In  dancing  the  Polka,  or  any  circular  dance  where  a  large 
number  of  couples  are  performing  at  the  same  time,  the  gentle- 
man must  be  careful  to  steer  his  fair  burden  safely  through  the 
mazes  of  the  crowded  ball-room.  A  little  watchfulness  can 


90  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

almost  always  avoid  collisions,  and  a  good  dancer  would  con- 
sider himself  disgraced  if  any  mishap  occurred  to  a  lady  under 
his  care.  Keep  a  sharp  look  out,  and  avoid  crowded  corners. 
Should  so  many  couples  be  dancing  as  to  render  such  caution 
impossible,  stop  at  once,  and  do  not  go  on  until  the  room  has 
become  somewhat  cleared.  In  a  few  minutes  others  will  have 
paused  to  rest,  and  you  can  then  continue.  Your  partner  will 
be  grateful  that  your  consideration  has  preserved  her  from  the 
dismal  plight  in  which  we  have  seen  some  ladies  emerge  from 
this  dance — their  coiffeurs  disordered,  their  dresses  torn,  and 
their  cheeks  crimson  with  fatigue  and  mortification,  while 
their  indignant  glances  plainly  showed  the  anger  they  did  not 
care  to  express  in  words,  and  which  their  reckless  partner  had 
fully  deserved.  A  torn  dress  is  sometimes  not  the  heaviest 
penalty  incurred  :  we  have  known  more  than  one  instance 
where  ladies  have  been  lamed  for  weeks  through  the  culpable 
carelessness  of  their  partners,  their  tender  feet  having  been 
half  crushed  beneath  some  heavy  boot  in  one  of  these  awk- 
ward collisions.  This  is  a  severe  price  to  pay  for  an  evening's 
amusement,  ant!  gentlemen  are  bound  to  be  cautious  how  they 
inflict  it,  or  anything  approaching  to  it,  upon  their  fair  com- 
panions. Ladies,  on  the  other  hand,  will  do  well  to  remem- 
ber that  by  leaning  heavily  upon  their  partner's  shoulder, 
dragging  back  from  his  encircling  arm  or  otherwise  impeding 
the  freedom  of  his  movements,  they  materially  add  to  his 
labour  and  take  from  his  pleasure  in  the  dance.  They  should 
endeavour  to  lean  as  lightly,  and  give  as  little  trouble,  as  pos- 
sible ;  for,  however  flattering  to  the  vanity  of  the  nobler  sex 
may  be  the  idea  of  feminine  dependence,  we  question  whether 
the  reality,  in  the  shape  of  a  dead  weight  upon  their  aching 
arms  throughout  a  Polka  or  Valse  of  twenty  minutes'  duration, 
would  be  acceptable  to  even  the  most  chivalrous  amongst 
them. 

We  have  been  thus  minute  in  our  instructions,  because  they 
not  only  apply  to  the  Polka,  but  equally  to  all  circular  dances 
where  a  great  number  stand  up  to  dance  at  the  same  time. 

We  now  pass  on  to  the 


X.— CELLARIUS  VALSE, 

Sometimes  called  the  Mazourka,  though  generallybest  known 
by  the  name  of  its  inventor,  M.  Cellarius,  of  Paris.  It  was 
imported  to  England  in  1845,  tw°  years  after  the  introduction 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  91 

of  the  Polka  ;  and,  although  it  never  attained  so  great  a  popu- 
larity as  its  predecessor,  it  was  favourably  received,  and  much 
danced  in  the  best  circles.  Still  it  failed  to  achieve  the  de- 
cided success  which  might  have  been  reasonably  expected  from 
its  elegance  and  beauty.  Perhaps  one  reason  of  this  disap- 
pointing result  was  that  many  inefficient  performers  attempted 
to  dance  it  before  they  had  mastered  its  somewhat  difficult  step, 
and  brought  it  into  disrepute  by  their  ungraceful  exhibitions. 
But  the  grand  secret  of  its  partial  failure  lay  in  the  mania  for 
rapid  whirling  dances,  introduced  by  the  Polka.  While  the 
rage  for  "  fast  dancing  "  continued,  the  measured  grace  of  the 
Cellarius  stood  no  chance.  Now  that  it  has  at  last  happily 
abated,  people  are  better  prepared  to  appreciate  the  refined 
and  quiet  charm  of  this  really  beautiful  valse.  To  dance  it 
well  requires  some  practice  ;  and  particular  attention  must  be 
paid  to  the  carriage  and  position  of  the  figure,  since  no  dance 
is  more  thoroughly  spoiled  by  an  awkward,  stiff,  or  stooping 
attitude. 

We  proceed  to  describe  the  step,  so  far  as  it  may  be  possible 
to  do  so  in  words ;  but  we  have  an  uneasy  consciousness  that  all 
such  descriptions  bear  a  close  resemblance  to  those  contained 
in  certain  little  volumes  designed  to  instruct  our  fair  readers  in 
the  mysteries  of  knitting,  netting,  and  crochet.  "Slip  two, 
miss  one,  bring  one  forward,"  &c.,  may  convey  to  the  mind  of 
the  initiated  a  distinct  idea  of  the  pattern  of  a  collar ;  but  are 
hardly  satisfactory  guides  to  the  step  of  a  valse.  We  must, 
however,  do  our  best ;  though  again  we  would  impress  upon 
the  reader  the  necessity  of  seeking  further  instruction  from  a 
professor  or  experienced  friend. 

The  time  of  the  Cellarius  Valse  is  f,  like  the  common  valse  ; 
but  it  should  be  played  much  more  slowly  ;  if  danced  quickly,  it 
becomes  an  unmeaning  succession  of  hops,  and  its  graceful  char- 
acter is  destroyed. 

We  describe  the  step  -oS  danced  by  the  lady ;  for  the  gentle- 
man it  will  be  the  same,  with  the  feet  reversed ;  that  is,  for 
right  foot  read  left,  and  so  on. 

Jiwt  §tty. 

1st  and  2nd  beat. — Spring  on  left  foot,  sliding  forward  right 
foot  at  the  same  time,  and  immediately  let  your  weight  rest 
on  the  forward  foot.  This  occupies  two  beats. 

3;-rf  beat. — Spring  on  right  foot ;  this  ends  the  bar. 

2nd  bar,  1st  and  2nd  beat.  — Spring  again  on  right  foot,  and 
llide  forward  left  at  same  time.  Rest  on  it  a  moment  as  be- 

I 


9*  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

fore  during  second  beat  ;  at  third  beat  spring  on  it  ;  which 
ends  second  bar.  Continue  same  step  throughout.  You  will 
perceive  that,  at  the  first  and  third  beat  of  the  time,  you  hop 
slightly,  resting,  during  the  second  beat,  on  the  foremost  foot. 


1st  beat.  —  Spring  on  left  foot,  slightly  striking  both  heels  to- 
gether. 

2nd  beat.  —  Slide  right  foot  to  the  right,  bending  the  knee. 

yd  beat.  —  Bring  left  foot  up  to  right  foot  with  a  slight  spring, 
raising  right  foot  ;  which  ends  the  first  bar. 

2nd  bar,  1st  beat.  —  Spring  again  on  left  foot,  striking  it 
with  heel  of  right. 

2nd  beat.  —  Slide  right  foot  to  the  right. 

yd  beat.  —  Fall  on  right  foot,  raising  left  foot  behind  it, 
which  ends  the  second  bar.  Reverse  the  step  by  springing 
first  on  the  right  foot,  and  sliding  the  left,  &c.  The  music 
generally  indicates  that  this  step  should  be  repeated  three  times 
to  the  right,  which  occupies  three  bars  ;  then  rest,  during  the 
fourth  bar,  and  return  with  reverse  step  to  the  left  during  the 
three  bars  which  follow,  resting  again  at  the  eighth  bar. 


1st  beat.  —  Spring  on  left  foot,  and  slide  right  foot  to  the 
right 

2nd  beat.  —  Rest  on  right  foot. 

yd  beat.  —  Spring  on  right  foot,  bringing  left  up  behind  it. 

2nd  bar,  1st  beat.  —  Spring  on  right  foot,  sliding  left  foot  to 
the  left, 

2nd  beat.  —  Rest  on  left  foot. 

yd  beat.  —  Hop  on  left  foot,  bringing  right  behind  it  as  be- 
fore. Continue  at  pleasure. 

The  first  of  these  three  steps  is  most  commonly  used  in  the 
valse  ;  but  the  second  is  an  agreeable  change  for  those  who  may 
have  grown  giddy  or  weary  in  doing  the  figure  en  tournant 
(circular  movement). 

Be  careful  not  to  exaggerate  the  slight  hop  at  the  first  and 
third  beats  of  each  bar  ;  and  to  slide  the  foot  gracefully  forward, 
not  merely  to  make  a  step,  as  some  bad  dancers  do. 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  93 


XL— THE  MAZOURKA  QUADRILLE. 

Those  who  have  mastered  the  steps  of  the  Cellarius  will  find 
little  trouble  in  dancing  this  elegant  quadrille.  It  has  five 
figures,  and  can  be  performed  by  any  even  number  ofcouples. 

The  music,  like  the  step,  is  that  of  the  Mazourka.  The 
couples  are  arranged  as  in  the  ordinary  quadrille. 

Join  hands  all  round  ;  grand  rond  to  the  left  (four  bars), 
then  back  again  to  the  right  (four  bars),  employing  the  second 
step  of  the  Cellarius.  Each  couple  does  &G  petit  tour  forwards, 
and  backwards,  still  using  the  second  step,  and  repeating  it 
three  times  to  the  right — then  resting  a  bar  ;  three  times  to  the 
left — then  resting  another  bar ;  wnich  occupies  eight  bars  of 
the  music.  These  figures  may  be  considered  as  preliminary. 
We  find  the  quadrille  itself  so  well  described  in  the  work  of  a 
contemporary,  that  we  cannot  do  better  than  extract  the  ac- 
count in  full,  for  the  benefit  of  our  readers. 

1st  figure. — Top  and  bottom  couples  right  and  left  (eight 
bars),  with  Redowa  steps  ;*  then  they  advance,  the  ladies 
cross  over,  the  gentleman  meanwhile  pass  quickly  round  each 
other,  and  return  to  own  places  (four  bars) ;  petit  tour  forward 
with  opposite  ladies  (four  bars) ;  right  and  left  (eight  bars) ; 
advance  again ;  the  ladies  return  to  own  places,  and  the 
gentlemen  pass  again  round  each  other  to  their  own  ladies 
(four  bars)  ;  petit  tour  backward  (four  bars).  Side  couples  do 
likewise. 

2nd  Figure. — (Eight  bars  rest. )  Top  and  bottom  couples 
advance  and  retire,  hands  joined  (four  bars).  All  cross  over 
into  opposite  places,  each  going  to  each  other's  left  (four 
bars) ;  petit  tour  forward  (four  bars) ;  advance  and  retire 
(four  bars),  and  return  to  places  (four  bars) ;  petit  tour  (four 
bars).  Side  couples  do  likewise. 

yd  Figure. — (Eight  bars  rest.)  Top  and  bottom  ladies 
cross  over  into  opposite  places  (four  bars)  ;  return,  presenting 
left  hands  to  each  other,  and  right  hands  to  partners,  as  in  La 
Poule  (four  bars) ;  pass  round  with  partners  into  opposite 
daces  (four  bars) ;  petit  tour  backward  (four  bars) ;  vis-a-vis 
couples  hands  across,  round  (six  bars)  ;  retire  (two  bars) ;  top 
and  bottom  ladies  cross  over  (four  bars) ;  ladies  cross  again, 
giving  each  other  left  hands,  and  right  to  partners  (four  bars). 
All  pass  round  to  own  places  (four  bars) ;  petit  lour  backward 
(four  bars). 

.  *  Tliis  step  will  be  found  fiutli«r  on  in  th«  book,  under  the  head  o    th)» 
Redowa  Vals«. 


94  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

4//i  Figure. — (Eight  bars  rest.)  Top  couple  lead  round  in- 
side the  figure  (eight  bars) ;  petit  tour  forward  and  backward 
(eight  bars) ;  advance  to  opposite  couple ;  the  gentleman  turns 
half  round  without  quitting  his  partner,  and  gives  his  left 
hand  to  opposite  lady ;  the  two  ladies  join  hands  behind 
gentleman  (four  bars) ;  in  this  position  the  three  advance  and 
retire  (eight  bars).  The  gentleman  passes  under  the  ladies' 
arms  ;  all  three  pass  round  to  the  left,  with  second  step  of 
Cellarius,  the  opposite  lady  finishing  in  her  own  place  (four 
bars).  The  top  couple  return  to  places  (four  bars) ;  petit  tour 
forward  (four  bars).  Opposite  couple  and  side  couples  do 
likewise. 

yh  Figure. — (Eight  bars  rest.)  Top  and  bottom  couples 
half  right  and  left  (four  bars) ;  petit  tour  backward  (four  bars) ; 
half  right  and  left  to  places  (four  bars) ;  petit  tour  backward 
(four  bars)  ;  vis-a-vis  couples  hands  round  to  opposite  places 
(four  bars) ;  petit  tour  forward  (four  bars) ;  hands  round  to 
own  places  (four  bars) ;  petit  tour  (four  bars) ;  right  and  left 
(eight  bars). 

Side  couples  do  likewise. 

Finale. — Grand  round  all  to  the  left,  and  then  to  the  right 
(sixteen  bars) ;  grand  chain,  as  in  the  Lancers,  with  first 
step  of  Cellarius  (sixteen  bars).  But  if  there  are  more  than 
eight  in  the  quadrille,  the  music  must  be  continued  until  all 
have  regained  their  places. 

N.B. — Music  continues  during  rest 


XII.— THE  POLKA  MAZOURKA. 

The  step  of  this  dance  is,  as  its  implies,  a  mixture  of  the 
steps  of  the  Polka  and  the  Mazourka.  It  is  a  favourite 
dance  with  the  Parisians,  but  has  never  been  very  popular  in 
England,  probably  from  the  same  reasons  which  prevented 
the  success  of  the  Cellarius.  Yet  it  is  a  pretty  dance,  and 
the  step  is  easily  acquired.  We  recommend  it  to  the  atten- 
tion of  our  readers.  The  time  is  ^5,  and  quicker  than  that  of 
the  Cellarius. 

Gentleman  takes  his  partner  as  in  the  valse.  Figure  en 
tournant.  We  describe  the  steps  for  the  gentleman  ;  the  lady 
simply  reverses  the  order  of  the  feet,  using  left  foot  for  right 
throughout. 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  95 

\stleat. — Rest  on  right  fo®t,  with  left  foot  a  little  raised 
behind,  and  slide  left  foot  to  the  left. 

2nd  beat. — Spring  on  the  right  foot,  bringing  it  up  to  where 
the  left  foot  is,  and  raising  the  latter  in  front. 

yd  beat. — Spring  once  more  on  right  foot,  passing  left 
foot  behind  without  touching  the  ground  with  it ;  this  ends 
first  bar. 

2nd  bar,  1st  beat. — Slide  left  foot  to  the  left,  as  before. 

2nd  beat. — Spring  on  right  foot,  as  before,  and  bring  it  up 
to  the  place  of  left  foot,  raising  latter  at  same  moment. 

yd  beat. — Fall  on  the  left  foot,  and  raise  the  right  foot 
behind  ;  end  of  second  bar. 

Begin  third  bar  with  right  foot,  and  continue  as  before. 
You  turn  half  round  in  the  first  three  beats,  and  complete  the 
circle  in  the  second  three. 


XIII. — THE  REDOWA,  OR  REDOVA. 

The  step  of  this  valse  somewhat  resembles  that  of  the 
Cellarius,  and  is  used,  as  we  have  seen,  in  dancing  the 
Mazourka  Quadrille.  It  is  an  elegant  valse,  not  so  lively  as 
the  Polka  Mazourka,  but,  if  danced  in  correct  time,  not  too 
slowly,  is  very  graceful  and  pleasing.  The  step  is  not  so 
difficult  as  that  of  the  Cellarius  ;  it  is  almost  a  Pas  de  Basque, 
with  the  addition  of  the  hop.  In  all  these  dances,  which 
partake  of  the  nature  of  the  Mazourka,  it  is  requisite  to  mark 
distinctly  the  first  and  third  beats  of  every  bar,  otherwise  the 
peculiar  character  of  the  movement  is  completely  lost.  We 
describe  the  step  for  the  lady  as  it  is  employed  in  the  forward 
movement. 

1st  beat. — Stand  with  right  foot  slightly  forward  ;  spring 
upon  it,  bringing  it  behind  left  foot,  which  is  raised  at  same 
moment 

2nd  beat. — Slide  your  left  foot  forward,  bending  the  knee. 

yd  beat. — Bring  your  right  foot,  with  a  slight  hop,  up 
behind  your  left  foot,  raising  the  latter  and  keeping  it  in 
front.  ( One  bar. ) 

ist  beat. — Spring  upon  your  left  foot,  passing  it  behind  your 
right,  and  raising  latter. 

2nd  beat. — Slide  right  foot  forward,  bending  the  knee-. 

yd  beat, — Bring  left  foot  up  to  right,  with  slight  hop,  ancl' 


56  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

raise  right  foot  at  same  moment,  keeping  it  in  front  as  be- 
fore. 

When  the  figure  en  tournant  (circular  movement)  is  em- 
ployed, the  lady  begins  by  sliding  the  left  foot  forward,  and 
the  right  foot  backward.  Gentleman  always  does  the  same, 
with  order  of  feet  reversed. 

This  dance  has  been  very  popular  in  Paris  ;  in  England  it 
is  now  seldom  seen. 


XIV. — THE  SCHOTTISCHE. 

The  Schottische  was  introduced  amongst  us  about  the 
same  time  as  the  Polka  Mazourka,  but  it  received  a  much 
more  cordial  welcome,  and  has  always  been  popular  in  Eng- 
land. Its  origin  is  as  uncertain  as  that  of  the  Polka,  and  it 
is  believed  to  be  a  very  ancient  national  dance.  It  is  a  great 
favourite  with  the  German  peasantry ;  and  although  its 
name,  Schottische,  would  seem  to  imply  that  it  came  from 
Scotland,  there  is  no  doubt  that  it  is  essentially  German  alike 
/n  character  and  in  music. 

The  step,  although  easy  to  learn,  requires  great  precision. 
We  would  recommend  our  readers  to  adhere  throughout  to 
the  circular  movement.  Some  dancers  begin  by  four  steps 
to  the  right,  then  back  again,  not  turning  until  they  com- 
mence the  second  half  of  the  figure.  But  when  many 
couples  are  dancing  this  practice  involves  a  risk  of  collisions, 
and  it  is  safer  to  begin  at  once  with  the  figure  en  tournant. 
The  second  part  of  the  step  consists  of  a  series  of  slight 
hops,  which  must  be  made  exactly  at  the  same  moment  by 
both  parties,  otherwise  a  break-down  is  inevitable.  They 
should  be  executed  as  quickly  as  possible,  so  as  to  avoid  the 
jigging  effect  which  bad  dancers  impart  to  the  Schottische. 
When  well  performed  it  is  a  very  animated  and  elegant 
dance,  forming  an  agreeable  variety  to  the  Polka  and  Valse. 

The  time  is  f  ;  it  should  be  played  a  good  deal  slower 
than  the  Polka ;  when  hurried  it  becomes  ungraceful  and 
vulgar.  The  first  and  third  beat  in  each  bar  should  be  slightly 
marked. 

We  proceed  to  describe  the  step  as  danced  by  the  gentle- 
man. 

Slide  the  left  foot  forward ;  bring  right  foot  close  up  be- 
hind left  foot.  Sli  te  }eft  foot  forward  a  second  time.  Spring 
upon  left  footi  T}  In  do  tie  same  with  right  foot. 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  97 

Having  completed  four  steps,  first  with  the  left  foot,  and 
then  with  the  right,  you  come  to  the  second  part,  which  con- 
sists of  a  series  of  double  hops,  two  on  each  foot  alternately. 
Hop  twice  on  the  left  foot  (one  bop  for  each  beat  of  the 
time),  and  half  turn  round ;  then  twice  on  the  right,  com- 
pleting the  circular  movement.  Repeat  the  same  through 
another  four  beats  ;  then  resume  first  step  through  the  next 
two  bars,  and  continue  to  alternate  them  every  second  bar. 
You  can  also  vary  the  dance  at  pleasure,  by  continuing  the 
first  step  without  changing  it  for  the  hops ;  or  you  can  like- 
wise continue  these  throughout  several  bars  in  succession  j 
taking  care,  of  course,  to  apprise  your  partner  of  your  inten- 
tion. Even  when  well  and  quietly  danced,  there  is  some- 
thing undignified  in  the  hopping  movement  of  the  second 
step ;  and  we  have  observed  with  satisfaction  that  for  some 
time  past  it  has  been  replaced  by  the  step  of  the  Valse  &  Deux 
Temps,  which  is  now  generally  used  instead  of  the  double 
hops. 


XV.— LA  VARSOVIENNE. 

This  is  a  round  dance  for  two,  which,  like  the  Polka 
Mazourka,  is  a  combination  of  the  steps  of  one  or  two  other 
dances.  Since  the  introduction  of  the  Polka  and  the  Cel- 
larius,  several  dances  have  been  invented  which  partake 
largely  of  the  character  of  both.  La  Varsovienne  is  very 
graceful,  and  was  popular  in  England  a  few  years  ago.  It  is 
not  often  danced  now. 

Take  your  partner  as  for  the  Valse.  Count  three  in  each 
bar.  Time  much  the  same  as  in  Polka  Mazourka.  The 
music  is  generally  divided  into  parts  of  sixteen  bars  each. 
The  steps  for  the  gentleman  is  as  follows  in  the  first  part  :— 

Slide  left  foot  to  the  left;  slightly  spring  forward  with  righk 
foot,  twice,  leaving  the  left  foot  raised  behind,  in  readiness 
for  next  step,  (ist  bar.)  Repeat  the  same.  (2nd  bar.) 
One  polka  step,  during  which  turn.  (3rd  bar.)  Bring  your 
right  foot  to  the  second  position,  and  wait  a  whole  bar.  (4th 
bar. )  Resume  first  step  with  right  foot,  and  repeat  through- 
out, reversing  order  of  feet.  Lady,  as  usual,  begins  with 
her  right  foot,  doing  the  same  step. 

Second  step  in  second  fart,     \st  bar. — Gentleman,  begin- 


98  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE 

ning  with  his  left  foot,  does  one  polka  step  to  tha  left,  turn* 
ing  partner. 

•2nd  bar. — Bring  right  foot  to  the  second  position,  and 
bend  towards  it ;  wait  a*vhole  bar. 

•yd  far.— One  polka  step  with  right  foot  to  the  right, 
turning  partner. 

sf h  bar. — Left  foot  to  second  position;  bend  towards  it, 
and  wait  as  before. 

Third  part. — Take  three  polka  steps  to  the  left.  (This 
occupies  three  bars.)  Bring  right  foot  to  second  position,  and 
wait  one  bar.  Repeat  the  same,  beginning  with  right  foot 
to  the  right. 


XVI.-i-THE  GORLITZA. 

This  is  a  Polish  round  dance  for  two,  which  was  brought 
over  to  London  from  Paris  in  1851.  Like  the  Varsovienne, 
it  is  now  seldom  seen  beyond  the  walls  of  the  dancing  aca- 
demy. Perhaps  one  reason  of  its  short-lived  popularity  is 
to  be  found  in  the  fact  that  it  is  rather  troublesome  to  learn, 
the  steps  being  changed  continually.  The  time  is  the  same 
as  that  of  the  Schottische,  but  not  quite  so  quick.  Take 
your  position  as  for  the  Polka. 

1st  bar. — One  polka  step  to  the  left,  beginning  with  left 
foot,  and  turning  half  round. 

•2nd  bar, — Slide  your  right  foot  to  right,  bring  left  foot  up 
close  behind  it,  as  in  the  fifth  position  ;  make  a  glissade  with 
your  right  foot,  ending  with  your  left  in  front. 

yd  bar.— Spring  on  your  right  foot,  raising  your  left  in 
front.  Fall  on  your  left  foot,  passing  it  behind  your  right  foot. 
Glissade  to  right  with  right  foot,  ending  with  left  in  front. 

ajh  bar. — Again  spring  on  right  foot,  raising  left  in  front. 
Fall  on  left  foot,  passing  it  behind  right.  Glissade  to  right, 
with  your  right  foot ;  end  with  same  foot  in  front.  Then 
repeat  from  beginning  during  the  next  four  bars,  but  the 
second  time  be  careful  to  end  with  the  left  foot  in  front. 
During  the  last  two  bars  you  turn  round,  but  do  not  move 
forward. 

The  step  for  the  lady  is  the  same,  with  the  order  of  the  feet, 
as  usual,  reversed  ;  except,  however,  in  the  last  two  bars  of 
this  figure,  which  both  begin  with  the  same  foot. 

The  Gorlitza,  like  the  preceding  dance,  is  divided  into 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

parts.  The  first  part  occupies  eight  bars  of  the  music  ;  the 
second,  sixteen  bars.  The  step  for  the  second  part  is  as  fol- 
lows : — 

1st  four  bars. — Commence  with  Polka  Mazurka  step,  with 
left  foot  to  the  left,  and  turn  half  round.  Then  do  the  step 
of  the  Cellarius  to  the  right,  beginning  with  the  right  foot ; 
fall  on  left  foot,  keeping  it  behind  right  foot ;  glissade  with 
right  foot,  and  end  with  same  in  front. 

2nd  four  bars. — Polka  Mazurka,  with  right  foot  to  the 
right,  and  turn  half  round.  Cellarius  step,  with  left  foot  to 
the  left.  Fall  en  right  foot,  keeping  it  behind  ;  glissade  with 
left  foot,  bringing  it  behind. 

Repeat  from  beginning,  which  completes  the  sixteen  bars 
of  second  half  of  the  figure. 

Lady  does  the  same  steps,  with  order  of  feet  reversed. 


XVII.— THE  VALSE  A  TROIS  TEMPS. 

Twenty  years  ago,  the  Valse  (or,  as  it  was  then  pronounced, 
Waltz)  was  a  stately  measure,  danced  with  gravity  and  delibe- 
ration. Each  couple  wheeled  round  and  round  with  dignified 
composure,  never  interrupting  the  monotony  of  the  dance  by 
any  movements  forward  or  backward.  They  consequently 
soon  became  giddy,  although  the  music  was  not  played  above 
half  as  fast  as  the  valse  music  of  our  day.  We  are  bound  to 
admit  that  this  stately  fashion  of  waltzing  was  infinitely  more 
graceful  than  the  style  which  has  superseded  it.  But,  having 
confessed  so  much,  we  may  venture  to  add  that  the  Valse,  as 
danced  by  the  present  generation,  possesses  a  spirit,  lightness, 
and  variety  quite  unknown  to  its  stately  predecessor. 

The  old  Waltz  was  introduced  into  this  country  from  Ger- 
many, where  it  has  always  been  the  favourite  dance  of  the 
people  in  all  ranks  and  conditions.  But,  although  we  adopted 
the  step  of  their  national  waltz,  we  so  entirely  altered  the  time, 
that  it  became  in  our  hands  a  totally  different  dance,  which 
the  Germans  themselves  would  have  found  it  difficult  to  recog., 
nize.  At  that  period,  "  fast  dancing"  was  unknown  in  Eng- 
land, and  would  have  been  regarded  as  highly  indecorous. 

At  its  first  introduction,  the  Waltz  was  received  with  great 
mistrust  by  the  older  portion  of  the  community.  If  it  was  to 
be  tolerated  at  all  i:i  correct  society,  it  must  at  least  be  danced 
in  a  deliberate  manner,  consonant  with  the  dignity  of  the  Eng- 
lish character.  It  was,  therefore,  taken  at  half  its  oritrinaJ 

7—2 


I«J  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

temps  :  it  ceased  to  be  the  giddy,  intoxicating  whirl  in  which 
the  Germans  delight,  and  subsided  into  the  comparatively  in- 
sipid and  spiritless  affair  known  thirty  years  ago  as  the  "  Ger- 
man Waltz." 

We  have  already  seen  how  complete  was  the  revolution 
effected  by  the  Polka  in  these  old-fashioned  ideas.  But, 
although  we  cannot  regret  the  introduction  of  a  more  animated 
style  of  dancing,  we  are  sorry  that  the  old  Waltz  has  been  so 
entirely  given  up.  When  restored  to  its  original  temps,  the 
Valse  a  Trots  Temps  is  nearly  as  spirited  as  the  VaheaDeux; 
and  twice  as  graceful.  It  has  the  additional  advantage  over 
the  latter,  that  it  contains  in  each  bar  three  steps  to  three 
beats  of  the  time ;  whereas  the  Deux  Temps,  as  its  name 
implies,  numbers  only  two  steps  in  a  bar  of  three  notes ; 
and  is  thus  incorrect  in  time.  We  venture  to  predict 
that  the  old  Waltz  will,  at  no  distant  day,  be  restored  to 
public  favour.  We  shall  be  heartily  glad  to  welcome  it  once 
more,  but  on  the  condition  that  it  shall  be  danced  in  the  only 
manner  which  does  justice  to  all  its  attractions  ;  that  is,  as  it 
is  danced  by  the  German  peasants  under  the  wide-spreading 
oaks  of  its  own  fatherland.  We  proceed  to  describe  the  step 
for  the  gentleman  :  the  same,  beginning  with  right  foot  in- 
stead of  left,  will  apply  to  the  lady. 

Gentleman  takes  his  partner  round  the  waist  with  his  right 
arm  ;  his  left  hand  holds  hers,  as  in  the  Polka.  Lady  places 
left  hand  on  his  shoulder,  and  right  hand  in  his  left  hand. 
Begin  at  once  with  the  figure  en  tournant.  Time  f  ;  one  step 
to  each  beat.  First  beat  in  each  bar  should  be  slightly 
marked  by  the  dancers. 

1st  beat. — Slide  left  foot  backwards,  towards  the  left. 

2nd  beat. — Slide  your  right  foot  past  your  left  in  same  direc- 
tion, keeping  right  foot  behind  left,  and  turning  slightly  to 
the  right. 

•yd  beat. — Bring  left  foot  up  behind  right  (one  bar). 

1st  beat. — Slide  right  foot  forward  towards  the  right. 

2nd  beat. — Slide  left  foot  forward,  still  turning  towards 
right. 

yd  beat. — Bring  right  foot  up  to  right,  turning  on  both  feet, 
so  as  to  complete  the  circle  (two  bars).  Remember  to  finish 
with  right  foot  in  front.  Repeat  from  first  beat  of  first  bar. 
Gentleman  always  turns  from  left  to  right  j  lady  from  right  to 
left. 

The  step  of  the  old  Waltz  is  simple  enough  ;  nevertheless 
some  practice  is  required  to  dance  it  really  well  Remember 
Always  to  tliiff,  not  to  tttf,  forward  j  for  the  beauty  of  this 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  101 

valse  consists  in  its  gliding  motion.  It  is  not  at  first  easy  to 
dance  swiftly  and  quietly  at  the  same  time  ;  but  a  little 
patience  will  soon  enable  you  to  conquer  that  difficulty,  and 
to  do  full  justice  to  what  is,  in  our  opinion,  the  most  perfectly 
graceful  of  all  the  round  dances,  without  a  single  exception. 


XVIII.— THE  VALSE  A  DEUX  TEMPS. 

We  are  indebted  to  the  mirth-loving  capital  of  Austria  for 
this  brilliant  Valse,  which  was,  as  we  have  observed  else- 
where, introduced  to  our  notice  shortly  before  the  Polka  ap- 
peared in  England,  and  owed  its  popularity  to  the  revolution 
in  public  taste  effected  by  that  dance. 

Although  the  Polka  has  gone  out  of  fashion,  the  Valse  a 
Deux  Temps  still  reigns  supreme  ;  but  within  the  last  two 
years  a  dangerous  rival  has  arisen,  which  may  perhaps  drive 
it  in  its  turn  from  the  prominent  position  which,  for  more 
than  t  v.'enty  seasons,  it  has  maintained .  This  rival  is  the  New 
Valse,  of  which  we  shall  speak  in  its  place  ;  but  we  must  now 
describe  the  step  of  the  Valse  a  Deux  Temps. 

We  have  already  remarked  that  this  Valse  is  incorrect  in 
time.  Two  steps  can  never  properly  be  made  to  occupy  the 
space  of  three  beats  in  the  music.  The  ear  requires  that  each 
beat  shall  have  its  step  ;  unless,  as  in  the  Cellarius,  an  express 
pause  be  made  on  one  beat.  This  inaccuracy  m  the  measure 
has  exposed  the  Valse  a  Deux  Temps  to  the  just  censure  of 
musicians,  but  has  never  interfered  with  its  success  among 
dancers.  We  must  caution  our  readers,  however,  against  one 
mistake  often  made  by  the  inexperienced.  They  imagine  that 
it  is  unnecessary  to  observe  any  rule  of  time  in  this  dance, 
and  are  perfectly  careless  whether  they  begin  the  step  at  the 
beginning,  end,  or  middle  of  the  bar.  This  is  quite  inadmis- 
sible. Every  bar  must  contain  within  its  three  beats  two  steps. 
These  steps  must  begin  and  end  strictly  with  the  beginning 
and  end  of  each  bar ;  otherwise  a  hopeless  confusion  of  the 
measure  will  ensue.  Precision  in  this  matter  is  the  more  re- 
quisite, because  of  the  peculiarity  in  the  measure.  If  the  first 
step  in  each  bar  be  not  strongly  marked,  the  valse  measure  has 
no  chance  of  making  itself  apparent ;  and  the  dance  becomes 
a  meaningless  galop. 

The  step  contains  two  movements,  a  glissade  and  a  c/iassee, 


102  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

following  each  other  quickly  in  the  same  direction.  Gentle* 
man  begins  as  usual  with  his  left  foot ;  lady  with  her  right. 

1st  beat. — Glissade  to  the  left  with  left  foot. 

2nd  and  yd  beats. — Chassez  in  the  same  direction  with  right 
foot ;  do  not  turn  in  this  first  bar. 

2nd  bar,  1st  beat. — Slide  right  foot  backwards,  turning  half 
round. 

2nd  and  "yd  beat. — Pass  left  foot  behind  right,  and  chasscz 
forward  with  it,  turning  half  round  to  complete  the  figure  en 
tonrnant.  Finish  with  right  foot  in  front,  and  begin  over 
again  with  left  foot. 

There  is  no  varir.Jion  in  this  step  ;  but  you  can  vary  the 
movement  by  going  backwards  or  forwards  at  pleasure,  instead 
of  continuing  the  rotatory  motion.  The  Valse  a  Deux  Tt'nips, 
like  the  Polka,  admits  of  a  reverse  step  ;  but  it  is  difficult,  and 
looks  awkward  unless  executed  to  perfection.  The  first  re- 
quiiite  in  this  Valse  is  to  avoid  all  jumping* movements.  The 
feet  must  glide  smoothly  and  swiftly  over  the  floor,  and  be 
raised  from  it  as  little  as  possible.  Being  so  yery  quick  a 
dance,  it  must  be  performed  quietly,  otherwise  it  is  liable  to 
become  ungraceful  and  vulgar.  The  steps  should  be  short, 
and  the  knees  slightly  bent. 

As  the  movement  is  necessarily  very  rapid,  the  danger  ot 
collisions  is  proportionately  increased  ;  and  gentlemen  will  do 
well  to  remember  and  act  upon  the  cautions  contained  in  the 
previous  pages  of  this  book,  under  the  head  of ' '  The  Polka.  " 

They  should  also  be  scrupulous  not  to  attempt  to  conduct 
a  lady  through  this  Valse  until  they  have  thoroughly  mastered 
the  step  and  well  practised  the figure en  tournattl.  Awkward- 
ness or  inexperience  doubles  the  risks  of  a  collision  ;  which,  in 
this  extremely  rapid  dance,  might  be  attended  with  serious 
consequences. 

The  Deux  Temps  is  a  somewhat  fatiguing  valse,  and  after 
two  or  three  turns  round  the  room,  the  gentleman  should 
pause  to  allow  his  partner  to  rest.  He  should  be  careful  to 
select  a  lady  whose  height  does  not  present  too  striking  a 
contrast  to  his  own  ;  for  it  looks  ridiculous  to  see  a  tall  man 
dancing  with  a  short  woman,  or  vice  versa.  This  observation 
applies  to  all  round  dances,  but  especially  to  the  valse,  iu  auy 
of  its  forms. 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  103 


XIX.— THE  NEW  VALSE. 

This  graceful  variation  of  the  valse  movement  has  not  long 
been  introduced  into  England,  and  is  not  yet  so  universally 
popular  as  it  promises  to  become.  It  was,  kowever,  much 
danced  in  London  last  year,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe 
that  it  will  be  the  favourite  dance  this  season.  It  is  more 
elegant  than  the  Valse  a  Deux  Temps,  and  more  spirited  than 
the  Cellarius.  The  tempo  is  slower  than  that  of  the  ordinary 
valse.  The  step  is  extremely  simple. 

Gentleman  takes  his  partner  as  for  the  Valse  a  Deux  Temps. 
Fall  on  the  left  foot,  and  make  two  glissades  with  the  right 
( 1st  bar).  Repeat,  reversing  order  of  feet  (2nd  bar).  Lady 
begins  with  her  right  foot  as  usual.  The  step  is  the  same 
throughout.  Figure  en  tournant. 

The  peculiarity  of  this  Valse  lies  in  its  accent,  which  can- 
not be  properly  explained  in  words,  but  must  be  seen  to  be 
understood.  We  recommend  our  readers  to  lose  no  time  in 
acquiring  a  correct  knowledge  of  the  New  Valse.  It  is  un- 
questionably the  most  easy  and  most  graceful  dance  which 
has  appeared  of  late  years,  and  we  are  told  on  first-rate  au- 
thority that  it  is  destined  to  a  long  career  of  triumphs. 


XX.— LE  GALOP. 

The  Galop,  as  its  name  implies,  is  the  quintessence  of  all 
the  "fast  "  dances.  At  the  time  of  the  Polka  mania  it  was 
very  much  in  vogue,  and  was  almost  as  great  a  favourite  as 
the  Deitx  Temps.  Although  its  popularity  has  greatly  de- 
clined of  late,  it  generally  occurs  twice  or  thrice  in  the  pro, 
gramme  of  every  ball-room  ;  and  the  music  of  the  Galop  is, 
like  the  dance  itself,  so  gay  and  spirited,  that  we  should 
regret  to  see  it  wholly  laid  aside.  The  step  is  similar  to  that 
of  the  Deux  Temps  Valse,  but  the  time  is  f,  and  as  quick  as 
possible.  Two  chassez  steps  are  made  in  each  bar.  The 
figure  can  be  varied  by  taking  four  or  eight  steps  in  the  same 
direction,  or  by  turning  with  every  two  steps,  as  in  the  Deux 
Temps.  Like  all  round  dances,  it  admits  of  an  unlimited 
number  of  couples.  Being,  perhaps,  the  most  easy  of  any, 
every  one  takes  part  in  it,  and  the  room  is  generally  crowded 


I«4  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

during  its  continuance.  A  special  amount  of  care  is  therefore 
necessary  on  the  part  of  the  gentleman  to  protect  his  partner 
from  accidents. 

We  have  now  described  all  the  round  dances  at  present  in 
rogue. 


XXI.— THE  COTILLON. 

The  Cotillon  is  rarely  seen  in  English  ball-rooms,  but  on 
the  Continent,  especially  in  Italy,  it  is  a  great  favourite.  It 
occupies  a  somewhat  similar  position  to  our  own  Sir  Roger 
de  Coverley,  being  generally  the  concluding  dance  of  the 
livening,  in  which  every  one  joins.  It  can  be  prolonged  at 
pleasure  by  the  introduction  of  more  figures,  for  it  has  no 
definite  beginning  or  end.  It  is,  in  fact,  more  like  a  long 
game  performed  to  the  accompaniment  of  valse  music  than  a 
dance. 

We  shall  describe  the  Cotillon  as  we  have  seen  it  in  the 
palaces  of  Italy,  where  it  is  danced  with  enthusiasm,  and 
diversified  by  an  innumerable  variety  of  figures,  only  a  few 
of  which  we  can  undertake  to  remember.  It  is  never  com- 
menced till  towards  the  close  of  the  ball,  at  so  advanced  an 
hour  that  all  the  sober  portion  of  the  assembly  have  retired, 
and  only  the  real  lovers  of  dancing  remain,  who  sometimes 
prolong  this  their  favourite  amusement  till  a  late  hour  in  the 
morning. 

It  is  customary  for  gentlemen  to  select  their  partners  for 
the  Cotillon  early  in  the  evening,  while  the  other  dances  are 
in  progress ;  for,  as  it  lasts  so  long  a  time,  it  is  necessary  to 
know  beforehand  how  many  ladies  feel  inclined  to  remain 
during  its  continuance. 

A  circle  of  chairs  is  arranged  round  the  room,  the  centre 
being  left  clear ;  the  spectators  stand  behind  the  chairs,  so  as 
not  to  interfere  with  the  dancers.  Each  gentleman  leads  his 
partner  to  a  seat,  taking  another  beside  her.  To  these  same 
seats  they  return  after  every  figure,  it  being  the  etiquette  of 
the  dance  that  no  couple  should  appropriate  any  chairs  but 
their  own,  taken  at  the  commencement.  When  the  dancers 
are  arranged  round  the  room,  the  orchestra  strikes  up  the 
spirited  music  of  the  Cotillon,  which  consists  of  a  long  series 
of  valse  movements  at  the  usual  tempo  of  the  Deux  Temps. 
There  are  generally  several  leaders  of  the  Cotillon,  who  de 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  105 

cide  upon  the  succession  of  the  figures.  If  there  are  many 
couples  dancing,  one  leader  attends  upon  a  group  of  six  or 
eight  couples,  to  ensure  that  all  shall  take  part.  We  are 
aware  of  no  fixed  rule  for  the  succession  of  the  figures,  which 
depends  upon  the  caprice  of  the  leaders.  A  good  leader  will 
invent  new  combinations,  or  diversify  old  figures ;  thus  secur- 
ing an  almost  endless  variety.  One  of  the  most  popular  is 
the  following  :— 

Several  gentlemen  assume  the  names  of  flowers  or  plants, 
such  as  the  honeysuckle,  woodbine,  ivy,  &c.  A  lady  is  then 
requested  to  name  her  favourite  flower  ;  and  the  fortunate 
swain  who  bears  its  name  springs  forward  and  valses  off  with 
her  in  triumph.  It  is  usual  to  make  one,  or  at  most  two, 
turns  round  the  room,  and  then  restore  the  lady  to  her  own 
partner,  who  in  the  meantime  has  perhaps  been  the  chosen 
one  of  another  lady.  All  having  regained  their  places,  each 
gentleman  valses  with  his  own  partner  once  round  the  room, 
or  remains  sitting  by  her  side,  as  she  may  feel  inclined. 

Baskets  filled  with  small  bouquets  are  brought  in.  Each 
gentleman  provides  himself  with  a  bouquet,  and  presents  it 
to  the  lady  with  whom  he  wishes  to  valse. 

Sometimes  a  light  pole  or  staff  is  introduced,  to  the  top  of 
which  are  attached  long  streamers  of  different  coloured  rib- 
bons. A  lady  takes  one  of  these  to  several  of  her  fair  com- 
panions in  turn,  each  of  whom  chooses  a  ribbon,  and,  holding 
it  firmly  in  her  hand,  follows  the  leading  lady  to  the  room. 
Here  they  are  met  by  an  equal  number  of  gentlemen,  like- 
wise grouped  around  a  leader  who  carries  the  pole,  while 
each  kolds  a  streamer  of  his  favourite  colour,  or  that  which 
he  imagines  would  be  selected  by  the  dame  de  ses  pensees. 
The  merry  groups  compare  notes:  those  who  possess  streamers 
of  the  same  colour  pair  off  in  couples,  and  valse  gaily  round 
the  room,  returning  to  places  as  before. 

Six  or  eight  ladies  and  the  same  number  of  gentlemen 
form  in  two  lines,  facing  each  other.  The  leading  lady 
throws  a  soft  worsted  ball  of  bright  colours  at  the  gentleman 
with  whom  she  wishes  to  dance.  He  catches  it,  throws  it 
back  to  the  fair  group,  and  valses  off  with  his  partner.  "Who- 
ever catches  the  returning  ball,  has  the  right  to  throw  next ; 
and  the  same  ceremony  is  repeated  until  all  have  chosen  their 
partners,  with  whom  they  valse  round  the  room,  returning  to 
places  as  usual.  Sometimes  a  handkerchief  is  substituted  for 
the  ball ;  but  the  latter  is  better,  being  more  easily  thrown 
and  caught 
Six  or  eight  chairs  ar«  placed  in  a  circle,  the  backs  turned 


Io6  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

inwards.  Ladies  seat  themseves  in  the  chairs,  gentlemeu 
move  slowly  round  in  front  of  them.  Each  lady  throws  hef 
handkerchief  or  bouquet  at  the  gentleman  with  whom  she 
wishes  to  dance  as  he  passes  before  her.  Valse  round  as  usual 
and  return  to  places. 

Sometimes  a  gentleman  is  blindfolded,  and  placed  in  a 
chair.  Two  ladies  take  a  seat  on  either  side  of  him  ;  and  he 
is  bound  to  make  his  selection  without  seeing  the  face  of  his 
partner.  Having  done  so,  he  pulls  the  covering  from  bis 
eyes,  and  valses  off  with  her.  It  is  a  curious  circumstance 
that  mistakes  seldom  occur,  the  gentleman  being  generally 
sufficiently  clairvoyant  to  secure  the  partner  he  desires. 

We  have  here  described  a  few  of  the  most  striking  figures 
of  the  Cotillon.  We  might  multiply  them  to  an  extent  which 
would  equally  tax  the  patience  of  our  readers  and  our  own 
powers  of  remembrance  ;  but  we  forbear.  Enough  has  been 
told  to  show  the  graceful,  coquettish  character  of  the  dance, 
which  adapts  itself  admirably  to  the  Italian  nature,  and  is  as 
much  beloved  by  them  as  the  Valse  by  the  Germans  or  the 
Cachucha  by  the  dark-eyed  maidens  of  Spain.  We  should  re- 
joice to  see  this  charming  stranger  naturalised  in  English  ball- 
rooms. It  is  especially  adapted  to  sociable  gatherings,  where 
most  of  the  guests  are  friends  or  acquaintances. 


XXII.— THE  SPANISH  DANCE. 

This  pretty  though  now  somewhat  old-fashioned  dance 
was,  before  the  introduction  of  the  Deux  Temps  and  Polka,  a 
principal  feature  in  every  ball-room.  It  is  danced  with  the 
step  and  music  of  the  Old  Valse  a  Trois  TernJ>s,  played  slower 
than  the  music  of  the  Deux  Temps. 

Sometimes  the  couples  stand  in  two  long  parallel  lines,  as 
in  a  country  dance  ;  sometimes  they  are  arranged  in  a  circle. 
The  leading  gentleman  must  be  on  the  ladies'  side,  and  his 
partner  on  the  gentleman's  side.  Every  fourth  lady  and 
gentleman  exchange  places,  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  keeping 
the  other  couples  waiting.  The  whole  set  can  thus  begin  at 
the  same  moment. 

Leading  gentleman  and  second  lady  advance  and  retreat 
»vith  Valse  step,  and  change  places.  Leading  lady  and  second 
gentleman  do  the  same  at  the  same  time. 

Leading  gentleman  and  his  partner  advance  and  retreat, 


BALL'ROOM  GUIDE.  107 

and  change  places.  Second  lady  and  gentleman  do  the  sama 
at  same  time.  Leading  gentleman  and  second  lady  repeat 
this  figure ;  first  lady  and  second  gentleman  likewise,  at  same 
time. 

Leading  gentleman  and  first  lady  repeat  same  figure; 
second  gentleman  and  lady  repeat  at  same  time. 

All  four,  joining  hands,  advance  to  centre,  and  retreat. 
Ladies  pass  to  the  left.  Repeat  three  times.  Each  gentle- 
man takes  his  partner,  aud  the  two  couples  valse  round  each 
other  once  or  twice  at  pleasure  ;  the  second  lady  and  gentle- 
man being  left  at  the  top  of  the  figure,  as  in  a  country  dance. 
Leading  gentleman  and  partner  repeat  same  figure  with  suc- 
ceeding couple  to  end  of  dance. 

It  is  obvious  that  there  must  be  an  equal  number  of  couples; 
and  that  they  must  be  arranged  in  sets  of  four,  eight,  sixteen, 
twenty,  twenty-four,  and  so  on. 


XXIII.— LA  TEMPETE. 

La  Tempete  was  brought  over  to  this  country  from  Paris 
some  years  ago.  It  speedily  became  a  favourite,  and  for 
several  seasons  was  much  danced  in  London  and  the  pro- 
vinces. It  unites  the  cheerfulness  of  the  quadrille  with  the 
sociability  of  the  country  dance  ;  and  when  its  lively  figures 
are  correctly  performed,  it  is  both  amusing  and  animated. 

It  is  divided  into  parties  of  four  couples,  like  the  quadrille ; 
but  their  arrangement  is  different.  Two  couples  stand  side  by 
side,  facing  their  respective  vis-a-vis  ;  there  are  not  any  side 
couples.  As  many  sets  of  four  couples  can  be  thus  arranged 
as  the  room  will  accommodate.  Each  new  set  turns  its  back 
upon  the  second  line  of  the  preceding  set.  Thus  the  dance 
can  be  the  whole  length  of  the  room,  but  is  only  the  breadth 
of  two  couples.  The  figure  is  as  follows  : — 

Place  two  couples  side  by  side,  the  lady  standing  at  the 
right  hand  of  the  gentleman.  Place  two  other  couples  as 
their  vis-a-vis.  Next  place  two  couples  with  their  backs 
turned  to  the  first  set ;  two  couples  opposite  them  for  their 
vis-a-vis ;  and  continue  arranging  more  sets  of  four  couples 
according  to  the  number  of  the  dancers  and  the  size  of  the 
room. 

first  part. — All  the  couples  begin  at  the  same  moment,  by 
advancing  and  retreating  twice,  with  joined  hands.  First 


log  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

couples  (that  is,  all  whose  backs  are  turned  to  the  top  of  th« 
room)  cross,  with  hands  joined,  to  the  places  of  their  vis-a-vis. 
The  latter  cross  at  the  same  time,  but,  separating,  pass  out- 
side top  couples  to  the  top,  where  they  join  hands,  return  to 
own  places,  and  back  again  to  the  top  without  separating ; 
the  top  couples  crossing  separately  at  the  same  time  outside 
the  second  couples.  Top  couples  then  join  hands,  and  all  re- 
turn to  their  own  places,  second  couples  separating  to  allow 
the  others  to  pass  between  them. 

Lady  and  gentleman  in  the  centre  of  each  line  join  hands, 
giving  their  disengaged  hands  to  their  two  vis-a-vis.  All  four 
half  round  to  the  left,  then  half  round  back  again  to  places. 
Meantime,  the  outside  lady  and  gentleman  perform  the  same 
with  their  respective  zns-ct  vis,  making  a  circle  of  two  instead 
of  four.  Circle  of  four  give  hands  across  round ;  change 
hands;  round  once  more,  and  back  to  places.  Outside 
couples  perform  same  figure  in  twos.  All  the  sets  perform 
the  figure  at  the  same  moment. 

Second  part. — All  advance,  retreat,  and  advance  again  ;  all 
the  top  couples  passing  the  second  couples  into  the  next  line, 
where  they  re-commence  the  same  figure,  their  former  vis-a-vis 
having  passed  to  the  top,  and  turned  round  to  wait  for  a  fresh 
vis-a-vis;  gentleman  always  keeping  lady  at  his  right  hand. 
An  entire  change  of  places  is  thus  effected,  which  is  continued 
throughout  this  figure,  until  all  the  top  lines  have  passed  to 
the  bottom,  the  bottom  lines  at  the  same  time  passing  to  the 
top  ;  and  then  turning  round,  all  go  back  again  by  the  same 
method  reversed,  till  all  have  regained  their  original  places. 
The  dance  may  terminate  here,  or  the  last  figure  may  be  re- 
peated, at  pleasure.  When  the  first  exchange  of  vis-a-vis 
takes  place,  the  new  lines  at  the  top  and  bottom  find  them- 
selves for  a  moment  without  a  vis-a-vis;  but,  at  the  next  move 
forward,  they  are  provided,  and  can  continue  the  figure  as 
above  described.  We  extract  from  a  contemporary  the  fol- 
lowing graceful  variation  in  the  first  half  of  this  dance : — "All 
advance  and  retire  twice  (hands  joined).  All  vis-a-vis  couples 
chassez  croisez  en  double,  each  gentleman  retaining  his  part- 
ner's left  hand  ;  eight  galop  steps  (four  bars) ;  dcchasscz  eight 
steps  (four  steps),  the  couple  on  the  right  of  the  vop  line 
passing  in  front  of  the  couple  on  the  left  the  first  time,  re- 
turning to  place,  passing  behind.  Thus,  two  couples  are 
moving  to  the  right,  and  two  to  the  left.  This  is  repeated. 
The  vis-a-vis  couples  do  likewise  at  the  same  time.  This  of 
course  applies  to  all  the  couples,  as  all  commence  at  the  same 
time." 


BALL-ROOM  GUIDE.  109 

La  Tempete  is  danced  to  quick  music,  in  §  time.  The 
steps  are  the  same  as  in  quadrilles  ;  varied  sometimes  by  the 
introduction  of  the  galop  step,  when  the  couples  cross  to  each 
others'  places  or  advance  into  the  lines  of  the  next  set. 


XXIV.— SIR  ROGER  DE  COVERLEY. 

We  conclude  our  account  of  the  dances  now  most  in  vogue 
with  an  old-fashioned  favourite,  whose  popularity  dates  from 
a  bygone  age,  and  bids  fair  to  survive  the  present  one.  Long 
may  its  cheerful  rustic  strains  be  heard  in  our  ball-rooms, 
and  prove  we  have  not  grown  too  fine  or  too  foolish  to  take 
pleasure  in  the  simple  dances  of  our  ancestors.  Sir  Roger  de 
Coverley  is  always  introduced  at  the  end  of  the  evening ;  and 
no  dance  could  be  so  well  fitted  to  send  the  guests  home  in 
good  humour  with  each  other  and  with  their  hosts.  We  de- 
scribe it  as  it  is  danced  in  the  present  day,  slightly  modernised 
to  suit  the  taste  of  our  time.  Like  the  quadrille,  it  can  be 
danced  with  equal  propriety  by  old  or  young  ;  and  is  so  easy, 
that  the  most  inexperienced  dancer  may  fearlessly  venture  to 
take  part  in  it. 

Form  in  two  parallel  lines ;  ladies  on  the  left,  gentlemen 
on  the  right,  facing  their  partners.  All  advance ;  retreat 
(which  occupies  the  first  four  bars) ;  cross  to  opposite  places 
(four  bars  more) ;  advance  and  retreat  (four  bars) ;  re-cross  to 
places  (four  bars). 

The  lady  who  stands  at  the  top,  and  the  gentleman  who 
stands  at  the  bottom,  of  each  line,  advance  towards  each 
other,  courtesy  and  bow,  and  retire  to  places.  The  gentle- 
man at  the  top  and  the  lady  at  the  bottom  do  the  same.  Lady 
at  top  and  gentleman  at  bottom  advance  again,  give  right 
hands,  and  swing  quickly  round  each  other  back  to  places. 
Gentleman  at  top  and  lady  at  bottom  do  the  same.  Top  lady 
advances,  gives  right  hand  to  partner  opposite,  and  passes  be- 
hind the  two  gentlemen  standing  next  to  him.  Then  through 
the  line  and  across  it,  giving  left  hand  to  partner,  who  meets 
her  half  way  between  the  two  lines,  having  in  the  meantime 
passed  behind  the  two  ladies  who  stood  next  his  partner; 
Lady  then  passes  behind  the  two  ladies  next  lowest ;  gentle- 
man at  same  time  behind  the  two  gentlemen  next  lowest ;  and 
so  on  all  down  the  line.  At  the  bottom,  lady  gives  left  hand 
to  her  partner,  and  they  promenade  back  to  places  at  the  top 


HO  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

of  the  line.  (This  figure  is  frequently  omitted.)  Top  couple 
advance,  courtesy  and  bow,  then  lady  turns  off  to  the  righ^ 
gentleman  to  the  left,  each  followed  by  the  rest  of  her  or  his 
line.  Top  couple  meet  at  the  bottom  of  figure,  join  hands, 
and,  raising  their  arms,  let  all  the  other  couples  pass  under 
them  towards  the  top  of  the  line,  till  all  reach  their  own 
places,  except  the  top,  who  have  now  become  the  bottom 
couple.  Figure  is  repeated  from  the  beginning,  until  the  top 
couple  have  once  more  worked  their  way  back  to  their  origi- 
nal places  at  the  top  of  the  line. 


THROUGHOUT  the  Ball-room  Guide  we  have  endeavoured 
to  avoid  as  much  as  possible  the  use  of  French  words,  and  to 
give  our  directions  in  the  plain  mother  tongue.  Nevertheless 
there  must  always  be  certain  technical  terms,  such  as  chassez 
croisez,  glissade,  &c.,  &c.,  for  which  it  would  be  difficult  to 
find  good  English  equivalents.  We  therefore  subjoin  a  Glos- 
sary of  all  such  words  and  expressions  as  have  long  since  been 
universally  accepted  as  the  accredited  phraseology  of  the  Ball- 
room. 


A  vos  places,  back  to  your  own  places. 

A  la  fin,  at  the  end. 

A  droite,  to  the  right. 

A  gauche,  to  the  left. 

Balancez,  set  to  your  partners. 

Balancez  aux  coins,  set  to  the  corners. 

Balancez  quatre  en  ligne,  four  dancers  set  in  a  line,  joining 

hands,  as  in  La  Poule. 
Balancez  en  moulinet,  gentlemen  and  tJieir  partners  give  eath 

other  right  hands  across,  and  balancez  in  the  form  of  a 

cross. 
Balancez  et  tour  des  mains,  all  set  to  partners,  and  turn  to 

places.    (See  Tour  des  mains. ) 
Ballotez,  do  the  same  step  four  times  without  changing  youf 

place. 

Chaine  Anglaise,  opposite  couples  right  and  left, 
Chains  des  dames,  ladies'  chain. 


GLOSSARY.  in 

Chaine  Anglaise  double,  double  right  and  left. 

Chaine  des  dames  double,  all  the  ladies  perform  the  ladies* 

chain  at  the  same  time. 
Chassez  croisez,  do  the  chasse  step  from  left  to  right,  or  right 

to  left,  the  lady  passing  before  the  gentleman  in  the  opposite 

direction,  that  is,  moving  right  if  he  moves  left,  and  vice  versa. 
Chassez  croisez  et   dechassez,   change  places  -with  partners, 

ladies  passing  in  front,  first  to  the  right,  then  to  the  left,  back 

to  places.     It  may  be  either  a  quatre— -four  couples — or  les 

huit — eight  couples. 

Chassez  a  droite — a  gauche,  move  to  the  right — to  the  left. 
Le  cavalier  seul,  gentleman  advances  alone. 
Les  cavaliers  seuls  deux  fois,  gentlemen  advance  and  retire  twice 

•without  their  partners. 
Changez  vos  dames,  change  partners. 
Centre  partie  pour  les  autres,  the  other  dancers  do  the  same 

figure. 

Demi  promenade,  half  promenade . 
Demi  chaine  Anglaise,  half  right  and  left. 
Demi  moulinet,  ladies  all  advance  to  centre,  right  hands  across, 

and  back  to  places. 

Demi  tour  a  quatre,  four  hands  half  round. 
Dos-a-dos,  lady  and  opposite  gentleman  advance,  pass  round 

each  other  back  to  back,  and  return  to  places. 
Les  dames  en  moulinet,  ladies  give  right  hands  across  to  each 

other,  half  round,  and  back  again  with  left  hands. 
Les  dames  dofment  la  main  droite — gauche— 4  leurs  cavaliers, 

ladies  give  the  right — left — hands  to  partners. 
En  avant  deux  et  en  arriere,  first  lady  and  vis-a-vis  gentleman 

advance  and  retire.     To  secure  brevity,  en  avant  is  always 

understood  to  imply  en  arriere  when  the  latter  is  not  ex- 
pressed. 

En  avant  deux  fois,  advance  and  retreat  twice. 
En  avant  quatre,  first  couple  and  their  vis-a-vis  advance  and 

nitre. 

En  avant  trois,  three  advance  and  retire,  as  in  La  Pastorale, 
Figurez  devant,  dance  before. 

Figurez  a  droite — a  gauche,  dance  to  the  right — to  the  left. 
La  grande  tour  de  rond,  all  join  hands  and  dance  completely 

round  the  figure  in  a  circle  back  to  places. 
Le  grand  rond,  all  join  hands,  and  advance  and  retreat  twice, 

as  in  La  Finale. 

Le  grand  quatre,  all  eight  couples  form  into  squares. 
La  grande  chaine,  all  the  couples  move  quite  round  the  figure, 

giving  alternately  the  right  and  left  hand  to  each  in  succession, 


113  BALL-ROOM  GUIDE. 

beginning  unth  the  right,  until  all  have  regained  their  pltuut 

as  in  last  figure  of  the  Lancers, 
La  grande  promenade,  all  eight  (or  more}  couples  promenaJt 

all  round  the  figure  back  to  places. 
La  main,  the  hand. 

La  meme  pour  les  cavaliers,  gentlemen  do  the  same. 
Le  moulinet,  hands  across.     The  figure  -will  explain  whether 

it  is  the  gentlemen,  or  the  ladies,  or  both,  who  are  to  per- 
form it. 
Pas  d'  Allemande,  the  gentleman  turns  his  partner  under  each 

arm  in  succession. 
Pas  de  Basque,  a  kind  of  sliding  step  forward,  performed  with 

both  feet  alternately  in  quick  succession.     Used  in  the  Redowa 

and  other  dances.     Comes  from  the  South  of  France. 
Glissade,  a  sliding  step. 
Le  Tiroir,  first  couple  cross  with  hands  joined  to  opposite  couple* s 

place,  opposite  couple  crossing  separately  outside  them;  then 

cross  back  to  places,  same  figure  reversed. 
Tour  des  mains,  give  both  hands  to  partner,  and  turn  her  round 

without  quitting  your  places. 
Tour  sur  place,  the  same. 
Tournez  vos  dames,  the  same. 
Tour  aux  coins,  turn  at  the  corners,  as  in  the  Caledonians,  each 

gentleman  turning  the  lady  who  stands  nearest  his  left  hand, 

and  immediately  returning  to  his  own  place. 
Traversez,  cross  over  to  opposite  place. 
Retraversez,  cross  back  again. 
Traversez  deux,  en  donnant  la  main  drcite,  lady  and  vis-a-vi» 

gentleman  cross,  giving  right  hand,  as  in  La  Poult. 
Vis-a-vis,  opposite. 
Figure  en  tournant,  circular  figure 


(Etiquette  rrf  dtourtehip  anb 


I. — FIRST  STEPS  IN  COURTSHIP. 

IT  would  be  out  of  place  in  these  pages  to  grapple  with  i 
subject  so  large  as  that  of  Love  in  its  varied  phases  :  a  theme 
that  must  be  left  to  poets,  novelists,  and  moralists  to  dilate 
upon.  It  is  sufficient  for  our  purpose  to  recognize  the  exist- 
ence of  this  the  most  universal — the  most  powerful — of  human 
passions,  when  venturing  to  offer  our  counsel  and  guidance 
to  those  of  both  sexes  who,  under  its  promptings,  have 
resolved  to  become  votaries  of  Hymen,  but  who,  from  im- 
perfect knowledge  of  conventional  usages,  are  naturally 
apprehensive  that  at  every  step  they  take,  they  mdy  render 
themselves  liable  to  misconception,  ridicule,  or  censure. 

We  will  take  it  for  granted,  then,  that  a  gentleman  has  in 
one  way  or  another  become  fascinated  by  a  fair  lady — possibly 
a  recent  acquaintance— whom  he  is  most  anxious  to  know 
more  particularly.  His  heart  already  feels  "the  inly  touch 
of  love,"  and  his  most  ardent  wish  is  to  have  that  love  re- 
turned. 

At  this  point  we  venture  to  give  him  a  word  of  serious 
advice.  We  urge  him,  before  he  ventures  to  take  any  step 
towards  the  pursuit  of  this  object,  to  consider  well  his  posi- 
tion and  prospects  in  life,  and  reflect  whether  they  are  such 
as  to  justify  him  in  deliberately  seeking  to  win  the  young 
lady's  affections,  with  the  view  of  making  her  his  wife  at  no 
distant  period.  Should  he  after  such  a  review  of  his  affairs 
feel  satisfied  that  he  can  proceed  honourably,  he  may  then 
use  fair  opportunities  to  ascertain  the  estimation  in  which  the 
young  lady,  as  well  as  her  family,  is  held  by  friends.  It  is 
-^rhaps  needless  to  add,  that  all  possible  delicacy  and  caution 
must  be  observed  in  making  such  inquiries,  so  as  to  avoid 

o 


I14  ETIQUETTE  OP 

compromising  the  lady  herself  in  the  slightest  degree.  When 
he  has  satisfied  himself  on  this  head,  and  found  no  insur- 
mountable impediment  in  his  way,  his  next  endeavour  will 
be,  through  the  mediation  of  a  common  friend,  to  procure  an 
introduction  to  the  lady's  family.  Those  who  undertake 
such  an  office  incur  no  slight  responsibility,  and  are,  of 
course,  expected  to  be  scrupulously  careful  in  performing 
it,  and  to  communicate  all  they  happen  to  know  affecting 
the  character  and  circumstances  of  the  individual  they  intro- 
duce. 

We  will  now  reverse  the  picture,  and  see  how  matters 
stand  on  the  fair  one's  side. 

First  let  us  hope  that  the  inclination  is  mutual ;  at  all 
events,  that  the  lady  views  her  admirer  with  preference,  that 
she  deems  him  not  unworthy  of  her  favourable  regard,  and 
that  his  attentions  are  agreeable  to  her.  It  is  true  her  heart 
may  not  yet  be  won  :  she  has  to  be  wooed  ;•  and  what  fair 
daughter  of  Eve  has  not  hailed  with  rapture  that  brightest 
day  in  the  springtide  of  her  life  ?  She  has  probably  first  met 
the  gentleman  at  a  ball,  or  other  festive  occasion,  where  the 
excitement  of  the  scene  has  reflected  on  every  object  around 
a  roseate  tint.  We  are  to  suppose,  of  course,  that  in  looks, 
manner,  and  address,  her  incipient  admirer  is  not  below  her 
ideal  standard  in  gentlemanly  attributes.  His  respectful 
Approaches  to  her — in  soliciting  her  hand  as  a  partner  in  the 
dance,  &c. — have  first  awakened  on  her  part  a  slight  feeling 
of  interest  towards  him.  This  mutual  feeling  of  interest, 
once  established,  soon  "grows  by  what  it  feeds  on."  The 
exaltation  of  the  whole  scene  favours  its  development,  and  it 
can  hardly  be  wondered  at  if  both  parties  leave  judgment 
"out  in  the  cold"  while  enjoying  each  other's  society,  and 
possibly  already  pleasantly  occupied  in  building  "castles  in 
the  air."  Whatever  may  eventually  come  of  it,  the  fair  one 
is  conscious  for  the  nonce  of  being  unusually  happy.  This 
emotion  is  not  likely  to  be  diminished  when  she  finds  herself 
the  object  of  general  attention — accompanied,  it  may  be,  by 
the  display  of  a  little  envy  among  rival  beau  ties —owing  to 
the  assiduous  homage  of  her  admirer.  At  length,  prudence 
whispers  that  he  is  to  her,  as  yet,  but  a  comparative  stranger ; 
and  with  a  modest  reserve  she  endeavours  to  retire  from  his 
observation,  so  as  not  to  seem  to  encourage  his  attentions. 
The  gentleman's  ardour,  however,  is  not  to  be  thus  checked ; 
he  again  solicits  her  to  be  his  partner  in  a  dance.  She  finds 
it  hard,  very  hard,  to  refuse  him  ;  and  both,  yielding  at  last 
to  the  alluring  influences  by  which  they  are  surrounded,  dis- 


COURTSHIP  AND  MA  TR1MONY.  115 

cover  at  the  moment  of  parting  that  a  new  and  delightful 
sensation  has  been  awakened  in  their  hearts. 

At  a  juncture  so  critical  in  the  life  of  a  young  inexperi- 
enced woman  as  that  when  she  begins  to  form  an  attachment 
for  one  of  the  opposite  sex — at  a  moment  when  she  needs 
the  very  best  advice  accompanied  with  a  considerate  regard 
for  her  overwrought  feelings — the  very  best  course  she  can 
take  is  to  confide  the  secret  of  her  heart  to  that  truest  and 
m0£t  loving  of  friends — her  mother.  Fortunate  is  the  daugh- 
ter who  has  not  been  deprived  of  that  wisest  and  tenderest 
of  counsellors — whose  experience  of  life,  whose  prudence 
and  sagacity,  whose  anxious  care  and  appreciation  of  her 
child's  sentiments,  and  whose  awakened  recollections  of  her 
own  trysting  days,  qualify  and  entitle  her  above  all  other 
beings  to  counsel  and  comfort  her  trusting  child,  and  to  claim 
her  confidence.  Let  the  timid  girl  then  pour  forth  into  her 
mother's  ear  the  flood  of  her  pent-up  feelings.  Let  her  en- 
deavour to  distrust  her  own  judgment,  and  seek  hope,  guid- 
ance, and  support  from  one  who,  she  well  knows,  will  not 
deceive  or  mislead  her.  The  confidence  thus  established  will 
be  productive  of  the  most  beneficial  results — by  securing  the 
daughter's  obedience  to  her  parent's  advice,  and  her  willing 
adoption  of  the  observances  prescribed  by  etiquette,  which, 
as  the  courtship  progresses,  that  parent  will  not  fail  to  re- 
commend as  strictly  essential  in  this  phase  of  life.  Where  a 
young  woman  has  had  the  misfortune  to  be  deprived  of  her 
mother,  she  should  at  such  a  period  endeavour  to  find  her 
next  best  counsellor  in  some  female  relative,  or  other  trust- 
worthy friend. 

,  We  are  to  suppose  that  favourable  opportunities  for  meeting 
have  occurred,  until,  by-and-by,  both  the  lady  and  her  admirer 
have  come  to  regard  each  other  with  such  warm  feelings  of 
inclination  as  to  have  a  constant  craving  for  each  other's 
society.  Other  eyes  have  in  the  meantime  not  failed  to  notice 
the  symptoms  of  a  growing  attachment ;  and  some  "  kind 
friends  have,  no  doubt,  even  set  them  down  as  already  en- 
gaged. 

The  admirer  of  the  fair  one  is,  indeed,  so  much  enamoured 
as  to  be  unable  longer  to  retain  his  secret  within  his  own 
breast ;  and,  not  being  without  hope  that  his  attachment  is  re- 
ciprocated, resolves  on  seeking  an  introduction  to  the  lady's 
family  preparatory  to  his  making  a  formal  declaration  of  love. 

It  is  possible,  however,  that  the  lover's  endeavours  to  pro- 
cure the  desired  introduction  may  fail  of  success,  although, 
where  no  material  difference  of  social  position  exists,  this  difii- 

S     2 


Ii6  ETIQUETTE  OP 

culty  will  be  found  to  occur  less  frequently  than  might  at  first 
be  supposed.  He  must  then  discreetly  adopt  measures  to 
bring  himself  in  some  degree  under  the  fair  one's  notice  : 
such,  for  instance,  as  attending  the  place  of  worship  which  she 
frequents,  meetingher,  so  often  as  to  be  manifestly  for  the  pur- 
pose, in  the  course  of  her  promenades,  &c.  He  will  thus 
soon  be  able  to  judge — even  without  speaking  to  the  lady — 
whether  his  further  attentions  will  be  distasteful  to  her.  The 
signs  of  this  on  the  lady's  part,  though  of  the  most  trifling 
nature,  and  in  no  way  compromising  her,  will  be  unmistake- 
able  ;  for,  as  the  poet  tells  us  in  speaking  of  the  sex  : — 

"  He  gave  them  but  one  tongue  to  say  us  "Nay/ 
And  two  fond  eyes  to  grant  1" 

Should  her  demeanour  be  decidedly  discouraging,  any  per- 
severance on  his  part  would  be  ungentlemanly  and  highly  in- 
decorous. But,  on  the  other  hand,  should  a  timid  blush  inti- 
mate doubt,  or  a  gentle  smile  lurking  in  the  half-dropped  eye 
give  pleasing  challenge  to  further  parley  when  possible,  he 
may  venture  to  write — not  to  the  lady — that  would  be  the 
opening  of  a  clandestine  correspondence,  an  unworthy  course 
where  every  act  should  be  open  and  straightforward,  as  tending 
to  manly  and  honourable  ends — but,  to  the  father  or  guardian, 
through  the  agency  of  a  common  friend  where  feasible  ;  or,  in 
some  instances,  to  the  party  at  whose  residence  the  lady  may 
be  staying.  In  his  letter  he  ought  first  to  state  his  position  in 
life  and  prospects,  as  well  as  mention  his  family  connections  ; 
and  then  to  request  permission  to  visit  the  family,  as  a  pre- 
liminary step  to  paying  his  addresses  to  the  object  of  his  ad- 
miration. 

By  this  course  he  in  nowise  compromises  either  himself  or 
the  lady  ;  but  leaves  open  to  both,  at  any  future  period,  an 
opportunity  of  retiring  from  the  position  of  courtship  taken  up 
on  the  one  side,  and  of  receiving  addresses  on  the  other,  with- 
out laying  either  party  open  to  the  accusation  of  fickleness  or 
jilting. 


II.—  ETIQUETTE  OF  COURTSHIP. 

IN  whatever  way   the   attachment   may   have   originated, 
whether  resulting  from  old  association  or  from  a  recent  ac« 


COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY.  117 

quaintanceship  between  the  lovers,  we  will  assume  that  the 
courtship  is  so  far  in  a  favourable  train  that  the  lady's  admirer 
has  succeeded  in  obtaining  an  introduction  to  her  family,  and 
that  he  is  about  to  be  received  in  their  domestic  circle  on  the 
footing  of  a  welcome  visitor,  if  not  yet  in  the  light  of  a  ^pro« 
bationary  suitor. 

In  the  first  case,  matters  will  in  all  probability  be  found  to 
amble  on  so  calmly,  that  the  enamoured  pair  may  seldom  find 
it  needful  to  consult  the  rules  of  etiquette;  but  in  the  latter,  its 
rules  must  be  attentively  observed,  or  "the  course  of  true  love" 
will  assuredly  not  run  smooth. 

If  the  gentleman  be  a  person  of  good  breeding  and  right 
feeling,  he  will  need  no  caution  from  us  to  remember  that, 
when  he  is  admitted  into  the  heart  of  a  family  as  the  suitor  of 
a  daughter,  he  is  receiving  one  of  the  greatest  possible  favours 
that  can  be  conferred  on  him,  whatever  may  be  his  own  supe- 
riority of  social  rank  or  worldly  circumstances ;  and  that,  there- 
fore, his  conduct  should  be  marked  by  a  delicate  respect  to- 
wards the  parents  of  his  lady-love.  By  this  means  he  will  pro- 
pitiate them  in  his  favour,  and  induce  them  to  regard  him  as 
worthy  of  the  trust  they  have  placed  in  him. 

Young  people  are  naturally  prone  to  seek  the  company  of 
those  they  love ;  and  as  their  impulses  are  often  at  such  times 
impatient  of  control,  etiquette  prescribes  cautionary  rules  for 
the  purpose  of  averting  the  mischief  that  unchecked  intercourse 
and  incautious  familiarity  might  give  rise  to.  For  instance,  a 
couple  known  to  be  attached  to  each  other  should  never,  un- 
less when  old  acquaintances,  be  left  alone  for  any  length  of 
time,  nor  be  allowed  to  meet  in  any  other  place  than  the  lady's 
home — particularly  at  balls,  concerts,  and  other  public  places 
— except  in  the  presence  of  a  third  party.  This,  as  a  general 
rule,  should  be  carefully  observed,  although  exceptions  may 
occasionally  occur  under  special  circumstances  j  but  even  then 
the  full  consent  of  the  lady's  nearest  relatives  or  guardians 
should  be  previously  obtained. 

What  the  Lady  should  observe  during  Coiwtship. 

A  lady  should  be  particular  during  the  early  days  of  court- 
ship — while  still  retaining  some  clearness  of  mental  vision — to 
observe  the  manner  in  which  her  suitor  comports  himself  to 
other  ladies.  If  he  behave  with  ease  and  courtesy,  without 
freedom  or  the  slightest  approach  to  licence  in  manner  or  con- 
versation ;  if  he  never  speak  slightingly  of  the  sex,  and  be  ever 
ready  to  honour  its  virtues  and  defend  its  weakness ;  she  may 


Ii8  ETIQUETTE  OF 

continue  to  incline  towards  him  a  willing  ear.  His  habits  and 
his  conduct  must  awaken  her  vigilant  attention  before  it  be  too 
late.  Should  he  come  to  visit  her  at  irregular  hours ;  should 
he  exhibit  a  vague  or  wandering  attention — give  proofs  of  a 
want  of  punctuality — show  disrespect  for  age — sneer  at  things 
sacred,  or  absent  himself  from  regular  attendance  at  divine 
service — or  evince  an  inclination  to  expensive  pleasures  be- 
yond his  means,  or  to  low  and  vulgar  amusements  ;  should  he 
be  foppish,  eccentric,  or  very  slovenly  in  his  dress  ;  or  display 
a  frivolity  of  mind,  and  an  absence  of  well-directed  eneTgy  in 
his  worldly  pursuits  ;  let  the  young  lady,  we  say,  while  there 
is  yet  time,  eschew  that  gentleman's  acquaintance,  and  allow 
it  gently  to  drop.  The  effort,  at  whatever  cost  to  her  feeling^ 
must  be  made,  if  she  have  any  regard  for  her  future  happiness 
and  self-respect.  The  proper  course  then  to  take  is  to  inti- 
mate her  distaste,  and  the  causes  that  have  given  rise  to  it,  to 
her  parents  or  guardian,  who  will  be  pretty  sure  to  sympathise 
with  her,  and  to  take  measures  for  facilitating  the  retirement 
of  the  gentleman  from  his  pretensions. 

What  the  Gentleman  should  observe  during  Courtship •; 

It  would  be  well  also  for  the  suitor,  on  his  part,  during  the 
first  few  weeks  of  courtship,  carefully  to  observe  the  conduct 
of  the  young  lady  in  her  own  family,  and  the  degree  of  estima- 
tion in  which  she  is  held  by  them,  as  well  as  amongst  her  in- 
timate friends.  If  she  be  attentive  to  her  duties  ;  respectful 
and  affectionate  to  her  parents ;  kind  and  forbearing  to  hei 
brothers  and  sisters  ;  not  easily  ruffled  in  temper ;  if  her  mind 
be  prone  to  cheerfulness  and  to  hopeful  aspiration,  instead  of 
to  the  display  of  a  morbid  anxiety  and  dread  of  coming  evil ; 
if  her  pleasures  and  enjoyments  be  those  which  chiefly  centre 
in  home  ;  if  her  words  be  characterised  by  benevolence,  good- 
will, and  charity :  then  we  say,  let  him  not  hesitate,  but 
hasten  to  enshrine  so  precious  a  gem  in  the  casket  of  his  affec- 
tions. But  if,  on  the  other  hand,  he  should  find  that  he  has 
been  attracted  by  the  tricksome  affectation  and  heartless  al- 
lurements of  a  flirt,  ready  to  bestow  smiles  on  all,  but  with  a 
heart  for  none ;  if  she  who  has  succeeded  for  a  time  in  fasci- 
nating him  be  of  uneven  temper,  easily  provoked,  and  slow  to 
be  appeased ;  fond  of  showy  dress,  and  eager  for  admiration  ; 
ecstatic  about  trifles,  frivolous  in  her  tastes,  and  weak  and 
wavering  in  performing  her  duties  ;  if  her  religious  ob- 
servances are  merely  the  formality  of  lip  service ;  if  she  be 
petulant  to  her  friends,  pert  and  disrespectful  to  her  parents, 


CO  UK  TSH1P  AND  MA  TRIMONY.  \  19 

overbearing  to  her  inferiors  ;  if  pride,  vanity,  and  affectation 
be  her  characteristics  ;  if  she  be  inconstant  in  her  friendships; 
gaudy  and  slovenly,  rather  than  neat  and  scrupulously  clean, 
in  attire  and  personal  habits  :  then  we  counsel  the  gentleman 
to  retire  as  speedily  but  as  politely  as  possible  from  the  pur- 
suit of  ari  object  quite  unworthy  of  his  admiration  and  love  ; 
nor  dread  that  the  lady's  friends— who  must  know  her  better 
than  he  can  do— will  call  him  to  account  for  withdrawing 
from  the  field. 

But  we  will  take  it  for  granted  that  all  goes  on  well ;  that 
the  parties  are,  on  sufficient  acquaintance,  pleased  with  each 
other,  and  that  the  gentleman  is  eager  to  prove  the  sincerity 
of  his  aiTectionate  regard  by  giving  some  substantial  token  of 
his  love  and  homage  to  the  fair  one.  This  brings  us  to  the 
question  of 

Presents, 

a  point  on  which  certain  observances  of  etiquette  must  not  be 
disregarded.  A  lady,  for  instance,  cannot  with  propriety  ac> 
cept  presents  from  a  gentleman  previottsly  to  his  having  made 
proposals  of  marriage.  She  would  by  so  doing  incur  an  obli- 
gation at  once  embarrassing  and  unbecoming.  Should,  how- 
ever, the  gentleman  insist  on  making  her  a  present — as  of 
some  trifling  article  of  jewellery,  &c., — there  must  be  no 
secret  about  it.  Let  the  young  lady  take  an  early  opportunity 
of  saying  to  her  admirer,  in  the  presence  of  her  father  or 
mother,  "I  am  much  obliged  to  you  for  that  ring  (or  other 
(•rinket,  as  the  case  may  be)  which  you  kindly  offered  me  the 
other  day,  and  which  I  shall  be  most  happy  to  accept,  if  my 
parents  do  not  object ;"  and  let  her  say  this  in  a  manner 
which,  while  it  increases  the  obligation,  will  divest  it  alto- 
gether of  impropriety,  from  having  been  conferred  under  the 
sanction  of  her  parents. 

We  have  now  reached  that  stage  in  the  progress  of  the 
courtship  where  budding  affection,  having  developed  into 
mature  growth,  encourages  the  lover  to  make 

The  Proposal. 

When  about  to  take  this  step,  the  suitor's  first  difficulty  is 
how  to  get  a  favourable  opportunity ;  and  next,  having  got 
the  chance,  how  to  screw  his  courage  up  to  give  utterance  to 
the  "declaration."  We  have  heard  of  a  young  lover  who 
carried  on  a  courtship  for  four  months  ere  he  could  obtain  a 


120  ETIQUETTE  OF 

private  interview  with  his  lady-love.  In  the  house,  as  might 
be  expected,  they  were  never  left  alone ;  and  in  a  walk  a 
third  party  always  accompanied  them.  In  such  a  dilemma, 
ought  he  to  have  unburdened  his  heart  of  its  secret  through 
the  medium  of  a  letter  ?  We  say  not.  A  declaration  in  writ- 
ing should  certainly  be  avoided  where  the  lover  can  by  any 
possibility  get  at  the  lady's  ear.  But  there  are  cases  where 
this  is  so  difficult  that  an  impatient  lover  cannot  be  restrained 
from  adopting  the  agency  of  a  billet-doux  in  declaring  his 
passion. 

The  lady,  before  proposal,  is  generally  prepared  for  it.  It 
is  seldom  that  such  an  avowal  comes  without  some  previous 
indications  of  look  and  manner  on  the  part  of  the  admirer, 
which  can  hardly  fail  of  being  understood.  She  may  not,  in- 
deed, consider  herself  engaged  ;  and,  although  nearly  certain 
of  the  conquest  she  has  made,  may  yet  have  her  misgivings. 
Some  gentlemen  dread  to  ask,  lest  they  should  be  refused. 
Many  pause  just  at  the  point,  and  refrain  from  anything  like 
ardour  in  their  professions  of  attachment  until  they  feel  con- 
fident that  they  may  be  spared  the  mortification  and  ridicule 
that  is  supposed  to  attach  to  being  rejected,  in  addition  to  the 
pain  of  disappointed  hope.  This  hesitation  when  the  mind  is 
made  up  is  wrong  ;  but  it  does  often  occur,  and  we  suppose 
ever  will  do  so,  with  persons  of  great  timidity  of  character. 
By  it  both  parties  are  kept  needlessly  on  the  fret,  until  the 
long-looked-for  opportunity  unexpectedly  arrives,  when  the 
flood-gates  of  feeling  are  loosened,  and  the  full  tide  of  mutual 
affection  gushes  forth  uncontrolled.  It  is,  however,  at  this 
moment — the  agony-point  to  the  embarrassed  lover,  who 
"  doats  yet  doubts  " — whose  suppressed  feelings  render  him 
morbidly  sensitive — that  a  lady  should  be  especially  careful 
lest  any  show  of  either  prudery  or  coquetry  on  her  part  should 
lose  to  her  for  ever  the  object  of  her  choice.  True  love  is 
generally  delicate  and  timid,  and  may  easily  be  scared  by 
affected  indifference,  through  feelings  of  wounded  pride.  A 
lover  needs  very  little  to  assure  him  of  the  reciprocation  of  his 
attachment :  a  glance,  a  single  pressure  of  hand,  a  whispered 
syllable  on  the  part  of  the  loved  one,  will  suffice  to  confirm 
his  hopes. 

Refusal  by  the  Young  Lady. 

When  a  lady  rejects  the  proposal  of  a  gentleman,  her  be- 
haviour should  be  characterised  by  the  most  delicate  feeling 
towards  one  who,  in  offering  her  his  hand,  has  proved  his  de« 


COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY.  121 

sire  to  confer  upon  her,  by  this  implied  preference  for  her 
above  all  other  women,  the  greatest  honour  it  is  in  his  power 
to  offer.  Therefore,  if  she  have  no  love  for  him,  she  ought  at 
least  to  evince  a  tender  regard  for  his  feelings ;  and,  in  the 
event  of  her  being  previously  engaged,  should  at  once  acquaint 
him  with  the  fact.  No  right-minded  man  would  desire  to 
persist  in  a  suit  when  he  well  knew  that  the  object  of  his  ad- 
miration has  already  disposed  of  her  heart. 

When  a  gentleman  makes  an  offer  of  his  hand  by  letter,  the 
letter  must  be  answered,  and  certainly  not  returned,  should 
the  answer  be  a  refusal ;  unless,  indeed,  when,  from  a  previous 
repulse,  or  some  other  particular  and  special  circumstances, 
such  an  offer  may  be  regarded  by  the  lady  or  her  relatives  as 
presumptuous  and  intrusive.  Under  such  circumstances,  the 
letter  may  be  placed  by  the  lady  in  the  hands  of  her  parents 
or  guardian,  to  be  dealt  with  by  them  as  they  may  deem  most 
advisable. 

No  woman  of  proper  feeling  would  regard  her  rejection  of 
an  offer  of  marriage  from  a  worthy  man  as  a  matter  of 
triumph  :  her  feeling  on  such  an  occasion  should  be  one  of 
•egretful  sympathy  with  him  for  the  pain  she  is  unavoidably 
".ornpelled  to  inflict.  Nor  should  such  a  rejection  be  unac- 
companied with  some  degree  of  self-  examination  on  her  part, 
to  discern  whether  any  lightness  of  demeanour  or  tendency  to 
flirtation  may  have  given  rise  to  a  false  hope  of  her  favouring 
his  suit.  At  all  events,  no  lady  should  ever  treat  the  man  who 
has  so  honoured  her  with  the  slightest  disrespect  or  frivolous 
disregard,  nor  ever  unfeelingly  parade  a  more  favoured  suitor 
before  one  whom  she  has  refused. 

Conduct  of  the  Gentleman  when  his  Addresses  are  rejected. 

The  conduct  of  the  gentleman  under  such  distressing  cir- 
cumstances should  be  characterised  by  extreme  delicacy  and  a 
chivalrous  resolve  to  avoid  occasioning  any  possible  annoy- 
ance or  uneasiness  to  the  fair  author  of  his  pain.  If,  however, 
he  should  have  reason  to  suppose  that  his  rejection  has  re- 
sulted from  mere  indifference  to  his  suit,  he  need  not  alto- 
gether retire  from  the  field,  but  may  endeavour  to  kindle  a  feel- 
ing of  regard  and  sympathy  for  the  patient  endurance  of  his  dis- 
appointment, and  for  his  continued  but  respectful  endeavours 
to  please  the  lukewarm  fair  one.  But  in  the  case  of  avowed 
or  evident  preference  for  another,  it  becomes  imperative  upon 
him,  as  a  gentleman,  to  withdraw  at  once,  and  so  relieve  the 
lady  of  any  obstacle  that  his  presence  or  pretensions  may  oc- 


122  ETIQUETTE  OF 

casion  to  the  furtherance  of  her  obvious  wishes.  A  perti- 
nacious continuance  of  his  attentions,  on  the  part  of  one  who 
has  been  distinctly  rejected,  is  an  insult  deserving  of  the 
severest  reprobation.  Although  the  weakness  of  her  sex, 
which  ought  to  be  her  protection,  frequently  prevents  a 
woman  from  forcibly  breaking  off  an  acquaintance  thus  an- 
noyingly  forced  upon  her,  she  rarely  fails  to  resent  such  im- 
pertinence by  that  sharpest  of  woman's  weapons,  a  keen- 
edged  but  courteous  ridicule,  which  few  men  can  bear  up 
against. 

Refusal  by  the  Lady's  Parents  or  Guardians. 

It  may  happen  that  both  the  lady  and  her  suitor  are  will- 
ing ;  but  that  the  parents  or  guardians  of  the  former,  on  being 
referred  to,  deem  the  connection  unfitting,  and  refuse  their 
consent.  In  this  state  of  matters,  the  first  thing  a  man  of 
sense,  proper  feeling,  and  candour  should  do,  is  to  efideavpur 
to  learn  the  objections  of  the  parents,  to  see  whether  they  can- 
not be  removed.  If  they  are  based  on  his  present  insufficiency 
of  means,  a  lover  of  a  persevering  spirit  may  effect  much  in 
removing  apprehension  on  that  score,  by  cheerfully  submit- 
ting to  a  reasonable  time  of  probation,  in  the  hope  of  amelio- 
ration in  his  worldly  circumstances.  Happiness  delayed  will 
be  none  the  less  precious  when  love  has  stood  the  test  of  con- 
stancy and  the  trial  of  time.  Should  the  objection  be  founded 
on  inequality  of  social  position,  the  parties,  if  young,  may 
wait  until  matured  age  shall  ripen  their  judgment  and  place 
the  future  more  at  their  own  disposal.  A  clandestine  marriage 
should  be  peremptorily  declined.  In  too  many  cases  it  is  a 
fraud  committed  by  an  elder  and  more  experienced  party 
upon  one  whose  ignorance  of  the  world's  ways  and  whose 
confiding  tenderness  appeal  to  him  for  protection  even  against. 
himself.  In  nearly  all  the  instances  we  have  known  of  such 
mai-riages,  the  results  proved  the  step  to  have  been  ill-judged, 
imprudent,  and  highly  injurious  to  the  reputation  of  one 
party,  and  in  the  long  run  detrimental  to  the  happiness  of 
both. 


COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY.  1*3 


III.— ETIQUETTE  OF  AN  ENGAGEMENT. 

WE  will  now  regard  the  pair  of  lovers  as  formally  ejigaged, 
and  bound  together  in  that  state  of  approximation  to  marriage 
which  was  in  the  ancient  Christian  Church,  and  indeed  is  still 
in  many  countries  of  Europe,  considered  in  a  very  sacred 
light,  little  inferior  to,  and,  in  fact,  regarded  as  a  part  of, 
marriage  itself — the  Betrothment. 

Condiict  of  the  Engaged  Couple. 

The  conduct  of  the  bridegroom-elect  should  be  marked  by 
a  gallant  and  affectionate  assiduity  towards  his  lady-love — a 
denouement  easily  felt  and  understood,  but  not  so  easy  to  de- 
fine. That  of  the  lady  towards  him  should  manifest  delicacy, 
tenderness,  and  confidence  ;  while  looking  for  his  thorough 
devotion  to  herself,  she  should  not  captiously  take  offence  and 
show  airs  at  his  showing  the  same  kind  of  attention  to  other 
ladies  as  she,  in  her  turn,  would  not  hesitate  to  receive  from 
the  other  sex. 

In  the  behaviour  of  a  gentleman  towards  his  betrothed  in 
public,  little  difference  should  be  perceptible  from  his  de- 
meanour to  other  ladies,  except  in  those  minute  attentions 
which  none  but  those  who  love  can  properly  understand  or 
appreciate. 

In  private,  the  slightest  approach  to  indecorous  familiarity 
must  be  avoided  ;  indeed,  it  is  pretty  certain  to  be  resented 
by  every  woman  who  deserves  to  be  a  bride.  The  lady's 
honour  is  now  in  her  lover's  hands,  and  he  should  never  for- 
get in  his  demeanour  to  and  before  her  that  that  lady  is  to  be 
his  future  wife. 

It  is  the  privilege  of  the  betrothed  lover,  as  it  is  also  his 
duty,  to  give  advice  to  the  fair  one  who  now  implicitly  con- 
fides in  him.  Should  he  detect  a  fault,  should  he  observe 
failings  which  he  would  wish  removed  or  amended,  let  him 
avail  himself  of  this  season,  so  favourable  for  the  frank  inter- 
change of  thought  between  the  betrothed  pair,  to  urge  their 
correction.  He  will  find  a  ready  listener  ;  and  any  judicious 
counsel  offered  to  her  by  him  will  now  be  gratefully  received 
and  remembered  in  after  life.  After  marriage  it  may  be  too 
Lite  ;  for  advice  on  trivial  points  of  conduct  may  then  not  im- 
probably be  resented  by  the  wife  as  an  unnecessary  interfer- 
ence :  now,  the  fair  and  loving  creature  is  disposed  like  pliant 


124  ETIQUETTE  Of 

wax  in  his  hands  to  mould  herself  to  his  reasonable  wishes  ia 
all  things. 

Conduct  of  the  Lady  during  her  Betrothal. 

A  lady  is  not  expected  to  keep  aloof  from  society  on  her 
engagement,  nor  to  debar  herself  from  the  customary  atten- 
tions and  courtesies  of  her  male  acquaintances  generally  ;  but 
she  should,  while  accepting  them  cheerfully,  maintain  such  a 
prudent  reserve,  as  to  intimate  that  they  are  viewed  by  her  as 
mere  acts  of  ordinary  courtesy  and  friendship.  In  all  places 
of  public  amusement — at  balls,  the  opera,  &c. — for  a  lady  to 
be  seen  with  any  other  cavalier  than  her  avowed  lover  in  close 
attendance  upon  her  would  expose  her  to  the  imputation  of 
flirtation.  She  will  naturally  take  pains  at  such  a  period  to 
observe  the  taste  of  her  lover  in  regard  to  her  costume,  and 
strive  carefully  to  follow  it,  for  all  men  desire  to  have  their 
taste  and  wishes  on  such  apparent  trifles  gratified.  She  should 
at  the  same  time  observe  much  delicacy  in  regard  to  dress, 
and  be  careful  to  avoid  any  unseemly  display  of  her  charms  : 
lovers  are  naturally  jealous  of  observation  under  such  circum- 
stances. It  is  a  mistake  not  seldom  made  by  women,  to  sup- 
pose their  suitors  will  be  pleased  by  the  glowing  admiration 
expressed  by  other  men  for  the  object  of  their  passion.  Most 
lovers,  on  the  contrary,  we  believe,  would  prefer  to  withdraw 
their  prize  from  general  observation  until  the  happy  moment 
for  their  union  has  arrived. 

Conduct  of  the  Gentleman  towards  the  Family  of  his  Betrothed. 

The  lover,  having  now  secured  his  position,  should  use 
discretion  and  tact  in  his  intercourse  with  the  lady's  family, 
and  take  care  that  his  visits  be  not  deemed  too  frequent — so 
as  to  be  really  inconvenient  to  them.  He  should  accommo- 
date himself  as  much  as  possible  to  their  habits  and  ways, 
and  be  ever  ready  and  attentive  to  consult  their  wishes. 
Marked  attention,  and  in  most  cases  affectionate  kindness,  to 
the  lady's  mother  ought  to  be  shown  :  such  respectful  homage 
will  secure  for  him  many  advantages  in  his  present  position. 
He  must  not,  however,  presume  to  take  his  stand  yet  as  a 
member  of  the  family,  nor  exhibit  an  obtrusive  familiarity  in 
manner  and  conversation.  Should  a  disruption  of  the  en- 
gagement from  some  unexpected  cause  ensue,  it  is  obvious 
that  any  such  premature  assumption  would  lead  to  very  em- 
barrassing results.  In  short,  his  conduct  should  be  such  as  to 


COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY.  li$ 

win  for  himself  the  esteem  and  affection  of  all  the  family,  and 
dispose  them  ever  to  welcome  and  desire  his  presence,  rather 
than  regard  him  as  an  intruder. 

Conduct  of  the  Lady  on  Retiring  from  her  Engagement. 

Should  this  step  unhappily  be  found  necessary  on  the  lady's 
part,  the  truth  should  be  spoken,  and  the  reasons  frankly 
given :  there  must  be  no  room  left  for  the  suspicion  of  its 
having  originated  in  caprice  or  injustice.  The  case  should 
be  so  put  that  the  gentleman  himself  must  see  and  acknow- 
ledge the  justice  of  the  painful  decision  arrived  at.  Incom- 
patible habits,  ungentlemanly  actions,  anything  tending  to 
diminish  that  respect  for  the  lover  which  should  be  felt  for 
the  husband  ;  inconstancy,  ill-governed  temper — all  which, 
not  to  mention  other  obvious  objections — are  to  be  considered 
as  sufficient  reasons  for  terminating  an  engagement.  The 
communication  should  be  made  as  tenderly  as  possible  :  room 
may  be  left  in  mere  venial  cases  for  reformation  ;  but  all  that 
is  done  must  be  so  managed  that  not  the  slightest  shadow  of 
fickleness  or  want  of  faith  may  rest  upon  the  character  of  the 
lady.  It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that  the  termina- 
tion of  an  engagement  by  a  lady  has  the  privilege  of  passing 
unchallenged, — a  lady  not  being  bound  to  declare  any  other 
reason  than  her  will.  Nevertheless  she  owes  it  to  her  own 
reputation  that  her  decision  should  rest  on  %  sufficient  foun- 
dation, and  be  unmistakably  pronounced. 

Conduct  of  the  Gentleman  on  Retiring  from  his  Engagement. 

We  hardly  know  how  to  approach  this  portion  of  our 
subject.  The  reasons  must  be  strong  indeed  that  can  suffi- 
ciently justify  a  man,  placed  in  the  position  of  an  accepted 
suitor,  in  severing  the  ties  by  which  he  has  bound  himself  to 
a  lady  with  the  avowed  intention  of  making  her  his  wife. 
His  reasons  for  breaking  off  his  engagement  must  be  such  as 
will  not  merely  satisfy  his  own  conscience,  but  will  justify 
him  in  the  eyes  of  the  world.  If  the  fault  be  on  the  lady's 
side,  great  reserve  and  delicacy  will  be  observed  by  any  man 
of  honour.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  imperative  force  of 
circumstances,  such  as  loss  of  fortune,  or  some  other  unex- 
pected calamity  to  himself,  may  be  the  cause,  then  must  the 
reason  be  clearly  and  fully  explained,  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
soothe  the  painful  feelings  which  such  a  result  must  neces- 
•arily  occasion  to  the  lady  and  her  friends.  It  is  scarcely 


126  ETIQUETTE  OF 

necessary  to  point  out  the  necessity  for  observing  great  cautioa 
in  all  that  relates  to  the  antecedents  of  an  engagement  that 
has  been  broken  off ;  especially  the  return  on  either  side  of 
presents  and  of  all  letters  that  have  passed. 
This  last  allusion  brings  us  to  the  consideration  of 

Correspondence. 

Letter-writing  is  one  great  test  of  ability  and  cultivation, 
as  respects  both  sexes.  The  imperfections  of  education  may 
be  to  some  extent  concealed  or  glossed  over  in  conversation, 
but  cannot  fail  to  stand  out  conspicuously  in  a  letter.  An 
ill-written  letter  infallibly  betrays  the  vulgarity  and  ignorance 
indicative  of  a  mean  social  position. 

But  there  is  something  more  to  be  guarded  against  than 
even  bad  writing  and  worse  spelling  in  a  correspondence  : 
saying  too  much — writing  that  kind  of  matter  which  will  not 
bear  to  be  read  by  other  eyes  than  those  for  which  it  was 
originally  intended.  That  this  is  too  frequently  done  is 
amply  proved  by  the  love  letters  often  read  in  a  court  of  law, 
the  most  affecting  passages  from  which  occasion  "  roars  of 
laughter "  and  the  derisive  comments  of  merry-making 
counsel.  Occurrences  of  this  kind  prove  how  frequently 
letters  are  not  returned  or  burnt  when  an  affair  of  the  heart 
is  broken  off.  Correspondence  between  lovers  should  at  all 
events  be  tempered  with  discretion  ;  and,  on  the  lady's  part 
particularly,  her  affectionate  expressions  should  not  degenerate 
into  a  silly  style  of  fondness. 

It  is  as  well  to  remark  here,  that  in  correspondence  be- 
tween a  couple  not  actually  engaged,  the  use  of  Christian 
names  in  addressing  each  other  should  be  avoided. 

Demeanour  of  the  Suitor  during  Courtship. 

The  manners  of  a  gentleman  are  ever  characterized  by 
urbanity  and  a  becoming  consideration  for  the  feelings  and 
wishes  of  others,  and  by  a  readiness  to  practise  self-denial. 
But  the  very  nature  of  courtship  requires  the  fullest  exercise 
of  these  excellent  qualities  on  his  part.  The  lover  should 
carefully  accommodate  his  tone  and  bearing,  whether  cheerful 
or  serious,  to  the  mood  for  the  time  of  his  lady-love,  whose 
slightest  wish  must  be  his  law.  In  his  assiduities  to  her  he 
must  allow  of  no  stint ;  though  hindered  by  time,  distance, 
or  fatigue,  he  must  strive  to  make  his  professional  and  social 
duties  bend  to  his  homage  at  the  shrine  of  love.  All  this 


COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY.  \Vf 

can  be  done,  moreover,  by  a  man  of  excellent  sense  with  per- 
fect propriety.  Indeed,  the  world  will  not  only  commend  him 
for  such  devoted  gallantry,  but  will  be  pretty  sure  to  censure 
him  for  any  short-coming  in  his  performance  of  such  devoirs. 
It  is,  perhaps,  needless  to  observe  that  at  such  a  period  a 
gentleman  should  be  scrupulously  neat,  without  appearing 
particular,  in  his  attire.  We  shall  not  attempt  to  prescribe 
what  he  should  wear,  as  that  must,  of  course,  depend  on  the 
times  of  the  day  when  his  visits  are  paid,  and  other  circum- 
stances, such  as  meeting  a  party  of  friends,  going  to  the 
theatre,  &c.,  with  the  lady. 

Should  a  Cotirtship  be  Short  or  Long  ? 

The  answer  to  this  question  must  depend  on  the  previous 
acquaintanceship,  connection,  or  relationship  of  the  parties, 
as  well  as  on  their  present  circumstances,  and  the  position  of 
their  parents.  In  case  of  relationship  or  old  acquaintance- 
ship subsisting  between  the  families,  when  the  courtship,  de- 
claration, and  engagement  have  followed  each  other  rapidly, 
a  short  wooing  is  preferable  to  a  long  one,  should  other  cir- 
cumstances not  create  an  obstacle.  Indeed,  as  a  general 
rule,  we  are  disposed  strongly  to  recommend  a  short  court- 
ship. A  man  is  never  well  settled  in  the  saddle  of  his 
fortunes  until  he  be  married.  He  wants  spring,  purpose, 
and  aim ;  and,  above  all,  he  wants  a  home  as  the  centre  of 
his  efforts.  Some  portion  of  inconvenience,  therefore,  may 
be  risked  to  obtain  this ;  in  fact,  it  often  occurs  that  by  wait- 
ing too  long  the  freshness  of  life  is  worn  off,  and  that  the 
generous  glow  of  early  feelings  becomes  tamed  down  to 
lukewarmness  by  a  too  prudent  delaying ;  while  a  slight 
sacrifice  of  ambition  or  self-indulgence  on  the  part  of  the 
gentleman,  and  a  little  descent  from  pride  of  station  on  the 
lady's  side,  might  have  ensured  years  of  satisfied  love  and 
happy  wedded  life. 

On  the  other  hand,  we  would  recommend  a  long  courtship 
as  advisable  when—  the  friends  on  both  sides  favouring  the 
match — it  happens  that  the  fortune  of  neither  party  will 
prudently  allow  an  immediate  marriage.  The  gentleman, 
we  will  suppose,  has  his  way-  to  make  in  his  profession  or 
business,  and  is  desirous  not  to  involve  the  object  of  his 
affection  in  the  distressing  inconvenience,  if  not  the  misery, 
of  straitened  means.  He  reflects  that  for  a  lady  it  is  an 
actual  degradation,  however  love  may  ennoble  the  motive  of 
her  submission,  to  descend  from  her  former  footing  in  society. 


t28  ETIQUETTE  OF 


He  feels,  therefore,  that  this  risk  ought  not  to  be  incurred. 
For,  although  the  noble  and  loving  spirit  of  a  wife  might 
enable  her  to  bear  up  cheerfully  against  misfortune,  and  by 
her  endearments  soothe  the  broken  spirit  of  her  husband ; 
yet  the  lover  who  would  wilfully,  at  the  outset  of  wedded 
life,  expose  his  devoted  helpmate  to  the  ordeal  of  poverty, 
would  be  deservedly  scouted  as  selfish  and  unworthy.  These, 
then,  are  among  the  circumstances  which  warrant  a  length- 
ened engagement,  and  it  should  be  the  endeavour  of  the 
lady's  friends  to  approve  such  cautious  delay,  and  do  all  they 
can  to  assist  the  lover  in  his  efforts  to  abridge  it.  The  lady's 
father  should  regard  the  lover  in  the  light  of  another  son 
added  to  his  family,  and  spare  no  pains  to  promote  his  in- 
terests in -life,  while  the  lady's  mother  should  do  everything 
in  her  power,  by  those  small  attentions  which  a  mother  un- 
derstands so  well,  to  make  the  protracted  engagement  agree- 
able to  him,  and  as  endurable  as  possible  to  her  daughter. 


IV. — PRELIMINARY  ETIQUETTE  OF  A  WEDDING. 

WHETHER  the  term  of  courtship  may  have  been  long  or 
short — according  to  the  requirements  of  the  case — the  time 
will  at  last  arrive  for 

Fixing  the  Day. 

While  it  is  the  gentleman's  province  to  press  for  the  earliest 
possible  opportunity,  it  is  the  lady's  privilege  to  name  the 
happy  day ;  not  but  that  the  bridegroom-elect  must,  after  all, 
issue  the  fiat,  for  he  has  much  to  consider  and  prepare  for  be- 
forehand :  for  instance,  to  settle  where  it  will  be  most  con- 
venient to  spend  the  honeymoon — a  point  which  must  depend 
on  the  season  of  the  year,  on  his  own  vocation,  and  other  cir- 
cumstances. At  this  advanced  state  of  affairs,  we  must  not 
overlook  the  important  question  of 

Legal  Settlements. 

These  are  matters  that  must  be  attended  to  where  there  w 
property  on  either  side  ;  and  it  behoves  the  intending  bride- 
groom to  take  care  there  is  no  unnecessary  delay  in  complet- 
ing tfeem. 


tO UR  TSHIP  AND  MA  TRTMONY.  ity 

An  occasional  morning  call  in  one  of  the  Inns  of  Court  at 
this  period  is  often  found  to  be  necessary  to  hasten  the  usually 
sluggish  pace  of  the  legal  fraternity.  On  the  business  part  of 
this  matter  it  is  not  the  province  of  our  work  to  dilate  ;  but 
we  may  be  permitted  to  suggest  that  two-thirds,  or  at  least 
one-half,  of  the  lady's  property  should  be  settled  on  herself 
and  offspring  ;  and  that  where  the  bridegroom  has  no  property 
wherewith  to  endow  his  wife,  and  has  solely  to  rely  on  his 
professional  prospects,  it  should  be  made  a  sine  qua  non  that 
he  should  insure  his  life  in  her  favour  previously  to  marriage. 

Hffw  to  be  Married. 

By  this  time  the  gentleman  will  have  made  up  his  mind  in 
•what  form  he  will  be  married — a  question,  the  solution  of 
which,  however,  must  chiefly  depend  on  his  means  arid 
position  in  life.  He  has  his  choice  whether  he  will  be  mar- 
ried by  BANNS,  by  LICENCE,  by  SPECIAL  LICENCE,  or  before 
the  Registrar ;  but  woe  betide  the  unlucky  wight  who  should 
venture  to  suggest  the  last  method  to  a  young  lady  or  her 
parents  ! 

Marriage  by  Banns. 

For  this  purpose,  notice  must  be  given  to  the  clerk  of  the 
parish  or  of  the  district  church.  The  names  of  the  two  parties 
must  be  written  down  in  full,  with  their  conditions,  and  the 
parishes  in  which  they  reside — as,  "Between  A  B,  of  the 
parish  of  St.  George,  bachelor  (or  widower,  as  the  case  may 
be),  and  C  D,  of  the  parish  of  St.  George,  spinster  (or  widow, 
as  the  case  may  be). "  No  mention  of  either  the  lady's  or 
gentleman's  age  is  required.  Where  the  lady  and  gentleman 
are  of  different  parishes,  the  banns  must  be  published  in  each, 
and  a  certificate  of  their  publication  in  the  one  furnished  to 
the  clergyman  who  may  marry  the  parties  in  the  church  of  the 
other  parish. 

It  seems  singular,  albeit  it  is  the  fact,  that  no  evidence  of 
consent  by  either  party  is  necessary  to  this  "  putting  up  of  the 
banns,"  as  is  it  denominated  ;  indeed,  the  publication  of  the 
banns  is  not  unfrequently  the  first  rural  declaration  of  attach- 
ment, so  that  the  blushing  village  maiden  sometimes  finds 
herself  announced  as  a  bride-elect  before  she  has  received  any 
actual  declaration.  The  clerk  receives  his  fee  of  two  shillings 
and  makes  no  further  inquiries ;  nay,  more,  is  prepared,  if  re- 
quired, to  provide  the  necessary  fathers  on  each  side,  in  the 
respectable  persons  of  himself  and  the  sexton — the  venerable 

9 


J3o  ETIQUETTE  OF 

pew-opener  being  also  ready,  on  a  pinch,  to  "perform*  tn« 
part  of  bridesmaid. 

The  banns  must  be  publicly  read  on  three  successive  Sun- 
days in  the  church,  after  the  last  of  which,  if  they  so  choose, 
the  happy  pair  may,  on  the  Monday  following,  be  "  made 
one."  It  is  usual  to  give  one  day's  previous  notice  to  the 
clerk  ;  but  this  is  not  legally  necessary,  it  being  the  care  of 
the  Church,  as  well  as  the  policy  of  the  Law,  to  throw  as  few 
impediments  as  possible  in  the  way  of  marriage,  of  which  the 
one  main  fact  of  a  consent  to  live  together,  declared  publicly 
before  an  assemblage  of  relatives,  friends,  and  neighbours 
(and  afterwards,  as  it  were  by  legal  deduction,  before  wit- 
nesses), is  the  essential  and  constituent  element.  Marriage  by 
banns,  except  in  the  country  districts,  is  usually  confined  to 
the  humbler  classes  of  society.  This  is  to  be  regretted,  inas- 
much as  it  is  a  more  deliberate  and  solemn  declaration,  and 
leaves  the  ceremony  more  free  from  the  imputation  of  sudden- 
ness, contrivance,  or  fraud,  than  any  other  form.  A  marriage 
by  banns,  it  is  understood,  can  never  be  set  aside  by  the  after 
discovery  of  deception  or  concealment  as  respects  residence, 
and  even  names,  on  either  side.  The  fees  of  a  marriage  by 
banns  vary  from  us.  6d.  to  13*.  6d.  and  15*.  6</.,  according 
to  the  parish  or  district  wherein  the  marriage  may  take  place. 

Hours  in  which  Marriages  may  be  Celebrated. 

All  marriages  at  church  must  be  celebrated  within  canoni- 
cal hours— that  is,  between  the  hours  of  eight  and  twelve,  ex- 
cept in  the  case  of  special  licence,  when  the  marriage  may  be 
celebrated  at  any  hour,  or  at  any  "  meet  and  proper  place." 

Marriage  by  Special  Licence. 

By  the  Statute  of  23rd  Henry  VIII.,  the  Archbishop  of 
Canterbury  has  power  to  grant  special  licences  ;  but  in  a  cer- 
tain sense  these  are  limited.  His  Grace  restricts  his  authority 
to  Peers  and  Peeresses  in  their  own  right,  to  their  sons  ancf 
daughters,  to  Dowager  Peeresses,  to  Privy  Councillors,  to 
Judges  of  the  Courts  at  Westminster,  to  Baronets  and  Knights, 
and  to  Members  of  Parliament ;  and,  by  an  order  of  a  former 
Prelate,  to  no  other  person  is  a  special  licence  to  be  given, 
unless  they  allege  very  strong  and  weighty  reasons  for  such  in- 
dulgence, arising  from  particular  circumstances  of  the  case, 
the  truth  of  which  must  be  proved  to  the  satisfaction  of  the 
Archbishop. 


COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY.  131 

The  application  for  a  special  licence  is  to  be  made  to  his 
Grace  through  the  proctor  of  the  parties,  who,  having  first 
ascertained  names  and  particulars,  will  wait  upon  his  Grace 
for  his  fiat. 

The  expense  of  a  special  licence  is  about  twenty-eight  or 
thirty  guineas,  whereas  that  of  an  ordinary  licence  is  but  two 
guineas  and  a  half ;  or  three  guineas  where  the  gentleman  or 
lady,  or  both,  are  minors. 

Marriage  by  Licence. 

An  ordinary  marriage  licence  is  to  be  obtained  at  the  Faculty 
Registry,  or  Vicar- General's  Office,  or  Diocesan  Registry  Office 
of  the  Archbishops  or  Bishops,  either  in  the  country,  or  at 
Doctors'  Commons,  or  by  applying  to  a  proctor.  A  licence 
from  Doctors'  Commons,  unlike  others,  however,  is  available 
throughout  the  whole  of  England. 

The  gentleman  or  lady  (for  either  may  attend),  before  apply- 
ing  for  an  ordinary  marriage  licence,  should  ascertain  in  what 
parish  or  district  they  are  both  residing — the  church  of  such 
parish  or  district  being  the  church  in  which  the  marriage  should 
be  celebrated  ;  and  either  the  gentleman  or  lady  must  have  had 
his  or  her  usual  abode  therein  fifteen  days  before  application 
is  made  for  the  licence,  as  the  following  form,  to  be  made  on 
oath,  sets  forth  : — 

.     "VICAR-GENERAL'S  OFFICE."  187  . 

APPEARED  PERSONALLY,  A  B,  of  the  parish  or  dis- 
trict of  ,  in  the  county  of  ,  a  bachelor, 


-2 
I 

g 
g 

y 

3 

! 

C 


of  the  age  of  21  years  and  upwards,  and  prayed  a 
Licence  for  the  solemnisation  of  matrimony  in  the  parish 
or  district  church  of  ,  between  him  and  C  D, 

of  the  district  of  ,  in  the  county  of  ,  a 

spinster,  of  the  age  of  2 1  years  or  upwards,  and  made 
oath,  that  he  believeth  that  there  is  no  impediment  of 
kindred  or  alliance,  or  of  any  other  lawful  cause,  nor 
any  suit  commenced  in  any  Ecclesiastical  Court,  to  bar 
or  hinder  the  proceeding  of  the  said  matrimony,  accord- 
ing to  the  tenor  of  such  Licence.  And  he  further  made 
oath,  that  he,  the  said  A  B  or  C  D,  hath  had  his  [or  her] 
usual  place  of  abode  within  the  said  parish  or  district  of 

,  for  the  space  of  fifteen  days  last  past. 
SWORN  before  me, 

[Here  the  document  must  be  signed  by  the  Vicar-General^ 
or  a  Surrogate  appointed  by  him.} 


I3a  ETIQUETTE  OF 

This  affidavit  having  been  completed,  the  licence  is  them 
made  out.     It  runs  thus  : — 

ARCHIBALD  CAMPBELL,  by  Divine  Providence  Archbishop  of 
Canterbury.  Primate  of  all  England,  and  Metropolitan,  To  our 
well  beloved  in  Christ,  A  B,  of  ,  andCZ>,  of  ,  Grace 
and  Health. — WHEREAS  ye  are,  as  it  is  alleged,  resolved  to 
proceed  to  the  solemnisation  of  true  and  lawful  matrimony, 
and  that  you  greatly  desire  that  the  same  may  be  solemnised 
in  the  face  of  the  Church  :  We,  being  willing  that  these  your 
honest  desires  may  the  more  speedily  obtain  a  due  effect,  and 
to  the  end  therefore  that  this  marriage  may  be  publicly  and 
lawfully  solemnised  in  the  church  of  ,  by  the  Rector, 

Vicar,  or  Curate  thereof,  without  the  publication  or  procla- 
mation of  the  banns  of  matrimony,  provided  there  shall  appear 
no  impediment  of  kindred  or  alliance,  or  of  any  other  lawful 
cause,  nor  any  suit  commenced  in  any  Ecclesiastical  Court,  to 
bar  or  hinder  the  proceeding  of  the  said  matrimony,  accord- 
ing to  the  tenor  of  this  Licence  ;  And  likewise,  That  the  cele- 
bration of  this  marriage  be  had  and  done  publicly  in  the 
aforesaid  *  church,  between  the  hours  of  eight  and 

twelve  in  the  forenoon  ;  We,  for  lawful  causes,  graciously  grant 
this  our  LICENCE  AND  FACULTY  as  well  to  you  the  parties 
contracting,  as  to  the  Rector,  Vicar,  Curate,  or  Minister  of 

,  the  aforesaid  ,  who  is  designed  to  solemnise  the  mar- 
riage between  you,  in  the  manner  and  form  above  specified, 
according  to  the  rites  of  the  Book  of  Common  Prayer,  set  forth 
for  that  purpose  by  the  authority  of  Parliament. 

Given  under  the  seal  of  our  VICAR-GENERAL,  this  day  ot 

,  in  the  Year  of  Our  Lord  one  thousand  eight  hundred 
and  ,  and  in  the  year  of  our  translation. 

The  licence  remains  in  force  for  three  months  only ;  and  the 
copy  received  by  the  person  applying  for  it  is  left  in  the  hands 
of  the  clergyman  %vho  marries  the  parties,  it  being  his  authority 
for  so  doing.  In  case  either  party  is  a  minor,  the  age  must  be 
stated,  and  the  consent  of  the  parents  or  guardians  authorised  to 
give  such  consent  must  be  sworn  to  by  the  gentleman  or  lady 
applying  for  the  licence.  The  following  are  the  persons  having 
legal  authority  to  give  their  consent  in  case  of  minority  : — ist, 
the  father  ;  if  dead — 2nd,  the  guardians,  if  any  appointed  by 
his  will ;  if  none — 3rd,  the  mother,  if  unmarried  j  if  dead  or 
married  — 4th,  the  guardians  appointed  by  Chancery.  If  none 
of  the  foregoing  persons  exist,  then  the  marriage  may  be  legally 


COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY.  133 

solemnised  without  any  consent  whatever.     The  following  are 
the  official  forms  for  this  purpose  : — 

CONSENTS  REQUIRED  IN  CASE  OP  MINORS. 
Consent  of  Father. 

By  and  with  the  consent  of  A  B,  the  natural  and  lawful 
father  of  B  B,  the  minor  aforesaid. 

Guardian  Testamentary. 

By  and  with  the  consent  of  A  B,  the  guardian  of  the  per- 
son of  the  said  C  D,  the  minor  aforesaid,  lawfully  appointed 
in  and  by  the  last  will  and  testament  of  D  Dt  deceased,  his 
[or  her]  natural  and  lawful  father. 

Mother. 

By  and  with  the  consent  of  A  B,  the  natural  and  lawful 
mother  of  B  B,  the  minor  aforesaid,  his  [or  her]  father  being 
dead,  and  he  [or  she]  having  no  guardian«of  his  [or  her]  per- 
son lawfully  appointed,  and  his  [or  her]  said  mother  being  un- 
married. 

Guardian  appointed  by  the  Court  of  Chancery. 

By  and  with  the  consent  of  A  B,  the  guardian  of  the  person 
of  the  said  C  D,  appointed  by  the  High  Court  of  Chancery, 
and  having  authority  to  consent  to  his  [or  her]  marriage,  his 
[or  her]  father  being  dead,  and  he  [or  she]  having  no  guardian, 
of  his  [or  her]  person  otherwise  lawfully  appointed,  or  mother 
living  and  unmarried. 

When  no  Father,  Testamentary  Guardian,  Mother,  or  Guar- 
dian appointed  by  the  Court  of  Chancery. 

That  he  [or  she]  the  said  A  B,  hath  no  father  living,  or 
guardian  of  his  [or  her]  person  lawfully  appointed,  or  mother 
living  and  unmarried,  or  guardian  of  his  [or  her]  person  ap- 
pointed by  the  High  Court  of  Chancery,  and  having  authority 
to  consent  to  the  aforesaid  marriage. 

The  previous  remarks  have  reference  only  to  licences  for 
marriages  about  to  be  solemnised  according  to  the  laws  of  the 
Church  of  England. 


134  ETIQUETTE  Of 


Marriage  of  Roman  Catholics  or  Dissenters  by  Licence. 

By  the  Statute  6th  and  ;th  William  IV.,  l}th  August,  1836, 
Roman  Catholics  and  Dissenters  who  may  wish  to  be  married 
in  a  church  or  chapel  belonging  to  their  own  denomination, 
can  obtain  a  licence  for  that  purpose  from  the  Superintendent 
Registrar  of  the  district  in  which  one  of  the  parties  resides, 
after  giving  notice  thereof  a  week  previous  to  the  same  officer! 
The  expense  of  the  licence  is  ^3  12s.  6d. 

Marriage  before  the  Registrar. 

Should  the  parties  wish  to  avoid  the  expense  of  a  licence, 
they  can  do  so  by  giving  three  weeks'  notice  to  the  Superin- 
tendent Registrar;  which  notice  is  affixed  in  his  office,  and 
read  before  the  proper  officers  when  assembled  ;  at  the  expira- 
tion of  that  time  the  marriage  may  be  solemnised  in  any  place 
which  is  licensed  within  their  district.  The  Registrar  of 
Marriages  of  such^  district  must  have  notice  of  and  attend 
every  such  marriage.  The  fee  due  to  the  Registrar  of  Mar- 
riages for  attending  the  ceremony  and  registering  the  mar- 
riage (by  licence)  is  ior.,  and  for  certificate  2s.  6d. ;  and 
without  a  licence  $s.,  and  certificate  zs.  6d. 

Marriages  also  by  the  above-mentioned  Act  of  Parliament 
may,  upon  due  notice,  be  celebrated  in  the  office  of  the  Super- 
intendent Registrar,  with  or  without  licence,  or  with  or  with- 
out any  religious  ceremony  ;  but  the  following  declarations, 
which  are  prescribed  by  the  Act,  must  be  made  at  all  mar- 
riages, in  some  part  of  the  ceremony,  either  religious  or  other- 
wise, in  the  presence  of  the  Registrar  and  two  witnesses — 
viz.,  "  I  do  solemnly  declare  that  I  know  not  of  any  lawful 
impediment  why  I,  A  B,  may  not  be  joined  in  matrimony  to 
C  D  ;"  and  each  of  the  parties  shall  also  say  to  each  other — 
"  I  call  upon  these  persons  here  present  to  witness  that  I, 
A  B,  do  take  thee,  C  D,  to  be  my  lawful  wedded  wife  "  (or 
husband). 

It  is  highly  to  the  credit  of  the  people  of  this  country,  and 
an  eminent  proof  of  their  deep  religious  feeling,  that  all  classes 
of  the  community  have  virtually  repudiated  these  "  Marriages 
by  Act  of  Parliament ;"  nor  would  we  advise  any  fair  maiden 
who  has  a  regard  to  the  comfort  and  respect  of  her  after  con- 
nubial life,  to  consent  to  be  married  in  the  Registrar's  back 


CO URTSH2P  AND  MA  TR1MONY.          135 

parlour,  after  due  proclamation  by  the  Overseers  and  Poor* 
Law  Guardians. 

The  Bridal  Trousseau,  and  the  Wedding  Presents. 

The  day  being  fixed  for  the  wedding,  the  bride's  father  now 
presents  her  with  a  sum  of  money  for  her  trousseau,  according 
to  her  rank  in  life.  A  few  days  previously  to  the  wedding, 
presents  are  also  made  to  the  bride  by  relations  and  intimate 
friends,  varying  in  amount  and  value  according  to  their  de- 
grees of  relationship  and  friendship — such  as  plate,  furniture, 
jewellery,  and  articles  of  ornament,  as  well  as  of  utility,  to  the 
newly-married  lady  in  her  future  station.  These,  together 
with  her  wedding  dresses,  &c.,  it  is  customary  to  exhibit  to 
the  intimate  friends  of  the  bride  a  day  or  two  before  her 
marriage. 

Duty  of  a  Bridegroom- EUct. 

The  bridegroom  elect  has  on  the  eve  of  matrimony  no  little 
business  to  transact.  His  first  care  is  to  look  after  a  house 
suitable  for  his  future  home,  and  then,  assisted  by  the  taste  of 
his  chosen  helpmate,  to  take  steps  to  furnish  it  in  a  becoming 
style.  He  must  also,  if  engaged  in  business,  make  arrange- 
ments for  a  month's  absence ;  in  fact,  bring  together  all 
matters  into  a  focus,  so  as  to  be  readily  manageable  when  after 
the  honeymoon  he  shall  take  the  reins  himself.  He  will  do 
well  also  to  burn  most  of  his  bachelor  letters,  and  part  with, 
it  may  be,  some  few  of  his  bachelor  connections ;  and  he 
should  communicate,  in  an  easy  informal  way,  to  his  acquain- 
tances generally,  the  close  approach  of  so  important  a  change 
in  his  condition.  Not  to  do  this  might  hereafter  lead  to  in- 
convenience and  cause  no  little  annoyance, 

We  must  now  speak  of 

Pitying  the  Ring. 

It  is  the  gentleman's  business  to  buy  the  ring ;  and  let  him 
take  especial  care  not  to  forget  it ;  for  such  an  awkward  mis- 
take has  frequently  happened.  The  ring  should  be,  we  need 
scarcely  say,  of  the  very  purest  gold,  but  substantial.  There 
are  three  reasons  for  this  :  first,  that  it  may  not  break— a 
source  of  great  trouble  to  the  young  wife  ;  secondly,  that  it 
may  not  slip  off  the  finger  without  being  missed — few  hus- 
tends  being  pleased  to  hear  that  their  wives  have  lost  their 


wedding  rings ;  and,  thirdly,  that  it  may  last  out  the  lifetime 
of  the  loving  recipient,  even  should  that  life  be  protracted  to 
the  extreme  extent.  To  get  at  the  right  size  required  is  not 
one  of  the  least  interesting  of  the  delicate  mysteries  of  love. 
A  not  unusual  method  is  to  get  a  sister  of  the  fair  one  to  lend 
one  of  the  lady's  rings,  to  enable  the  jeweller  to  select  the 
proper  size.  Care  must  be  taken,  however,  that  it  be  not  too 
large.  Some  audacious  suitors,  rendered  bold  by  their  favoured 
position,  have  been  even  known  presumptuously  to  try  the 
ring  on  the  patient  finger  of  the  bride-  elect ;  and  it  has  rarely 
happened  in  such  cases  that  the  ring  has  been  refused,  or  sent 
back  to  be  changed . 

Having  bought  the  ring,  the  bridegroom  should  now  put  it 
into  his  waistcoat-pocket,  there  to  remain  until  he  puts  on  his 
wedding  vest  on  the  morning  of  the  marriage  ;  to  the  left- 
hand  pocket  of  which  he  must  then  carefully  transfer  it,  and 
not  part  with  it  until  he  takes  it  out  in  the  church  during  the 
wedding  ceremony. 

In  ancient  days,  it  appears  by  the  "  Salisbury  Manual," 
there  was  a  form  of  "  Blessing  the  Wedding  Ring  "  before  the 
wedding  day  ;  and  in  those  times  the  priest,  previously  to  the 
ring  being  put  on,  always  made  careful  inquiry  whether  it  had 
been  duly  blessed.  It  would  seem  to  be  the  wish  of  certain 
clergymen,  who  have  of  late  brought  back  into  use  many 
ceremonial  observances  that  had  fallen  into  desuetude,  to  re- 
vive this  ancient  custom. 

Who  should  be  Asked  to  the  Wedding. 

The  wedding  should  take  place  at  the  house  of  the  bride's 
parents  or  guardians.  The  parties  who  ought  to  be  asked  are 
the  father  and  mother  of  the  gentleman,  the  brothers  and  sis- 
ters (their  wives  and  husbands  also,  if  married),  and  indeed 
the  immediate  relations  and  favoured  friends  of  both  parties. 
Old  family  friends  on  the  bride's  side  should  also  receive  in- 
vitations— the  rationale  or  original  intention  of  this  wedding 
assemblage  being  to  give  publicity  to  the  fact  that  the  bride  is 
leaving  her  paternal  home  with  the  consent  and  approbation 
of  her  parents. 

On  this  occasion  the  bridegroom  has  the  privilege  of  ask- 
ing any  friends  he  may  choose  to  the  wedding  ;  but  no  friend 
lias  a  right  to  feel  affronted  at  not  being  invited,  since,  were 
all  the  friends  on  either  side  assembled,  the  wedding  break- 
fast would  be  an  inconveniently  crowded  reception,  rather 
than  an  impressive  ceremonial.  It  is,  however,  considered 


COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY.  137 

a  matter  of  friendly  attention  on  the  part  of  those  who  can« 
not  be  invited,  to  be  present  at  the  ceremony  in  the  church. 

Who  should  be  Bridesmaids. 

The  bridesmaids  should  include  the  unmarried  sisters  of 
the  bride  ;  but  it  is  considered  an  anomaly  for  an  elder  sister 
to  perform  this  function.  The  pleasing  novelty  for  several 
years  past,  of  an  addition  to  the  number  of  bridesmaids 
varying  from  two  to  eight,  and  sometimes  more,  has  added 
greatly  to  the  interest  of  weddings,  the  bride  being  thus 
enabled  to  diffuse  a  portion  of  her  own  happiness  among  the 
most  intimate  of  her  younger  friends.  One  lady  is  always 
appointed  principal  bridesmaid,  and  has  the  bride  in  her 
charge  ;  it  is  also  her  duty  to  take  care  that  the  other  brides- 
maids have  the  wedding  favours  in  readiness.  On  the  second, 
bridesmaid  devolves,  with  her  principal,  the  duty  of  sending 
out  the  cards ;  and  on  the  third  bridesmaid,  in  conjunction 
with  the  remaining  beauties  of  her  choir,  the  onerous  office 
of  attending  to  certain  ministrations  and  mysteries  connected 
with  the  wedding  cake. 

Of  the  B ridegroomsmen. 

It  behoves  a  bridegroom  to  be  exceedingly  particular  in 
the  selection  of  the  friends  who,  as  groomsmen,  are  to  be  his 
companions  and  assistants  on  the  occasion  of  his  wedding. 
Their  number  is  limited  to  that  of  the  bridesmaids  :  one  for 
each.  It  is  unnecessary  to  add  that  very  much  of  the  social 
pleasure  of  the  day  will  depend  on  their  proper  mating. 
Young  and  unmarried  they  must  be,  handsome  they  should 
be,  good-humoured  they  cannot  fail  to  be,  well  dressed  they 
will  of  course  take  good  care  to  be.  Let  the  bridegroom 
diligently  con  over  his  circle  of  friends,  and  select  the  come- 
liest  and  the  pleasantest  fellows  for  his  own  train.  The 
principal  bridegroomsman,  styled  his  "best  man"  has,  for 
the  day,  the  special  charge  of  the  bridegroom  ;  and  the  last 
warning  we  would  give  him  is,  to  take  care  that,  when  the 
bridegroom  puts  on  his  wedding  waistcoat,  he  does  not  omit 
to  put  the  wedding  ring  into  the  corner  of  the  left-hand 
pocket.  The  dress  of  a  groomsman  should  be  light  and  ele- 
gant ;  a  dress  coat,  formerly  considered  indispensable,  is  no 
longer  adopted. 


138  ETIQUETTE  Of 

Duties  to  be  Attended  to  the  Day  before  the  Wedding. 

The  bride  now  sends  white  gloves,  wrapped  in  white 
paper  and  tied  with  white  ribbon,  to  each  of  the  brides- 
maids. 

The  bridegroom  does  the  same  to  each  of  the  bridegrooms- 
men. 

One  portion  of  the  wedding  cake  is  cut  into  small  oblong 
pieces,  and  passed  by  the  bridesmaids  through  the  wedding 
ring,  which  is  delivered  into  their  charge  for  this  purpose. 
The  pieces  of  cake  are  afterwards  put  up  in  ornamental  paper, 
generally  pink  or  white,  enamelled,  and  tied  with  bows  of 
silvered  paper.  This  pleasant  old  custom  is,  however,  much 
on  the  wane. 

The  bridegroom's  "best  man"  on  this  day  must  take 
care  that  due  notice  be  sent  to  the  clerk  of  the  parish  where 
the  ceremony  is  to  take  place,  so  that  the  church  may  be  got 
ready,  and  the  clergyman  be  in  attendance. 

It  is  usual  too  for  the  bridegroom's  "best  man"  to  make 
arrangements  for  the  church  bells  being  rung  after  the  cere- 
mony :  the  rationale  of  this  being  to  imply  that  it  is  the 
province  of  the  husband  to  call  on  all  the  neighbours  to  re- 
joice with  him  on  his  receiving  his  wife,  and  not  that  of  the 
lady's  father  on  her  going  from  his  house. 

The  bridegroom  furnishes  to  the  bridesmaids  his  list  for  the 
"  Cards  "  to  be  sent  to  his  friends  ;  of  which  hereafter. 

On  the  evening  of  this  day  the  wedding  breakfast  should 
be  ornamented  and  spread  out,  as  far  as  possible,  in  the 
apartment  appropriated  to  it. 

The  bridesmaids  on  this  evening  also  prepare  the  wedding 
favours,  which  should  be  put  up  in  a  box  ready  to  be  con- 
veyed to  the  church  on  the  morning  of  the  marriage.  A 
picturesque  custom  is  observed  in  many  country  weddings, 
where  the  bride's  friends  strew  her  path  to  the  church  door 
with  flowers. 


V. — ETIQUETTE  OF  A  WEDDING. 

The  parties  being  assembled  on  the  wedding  morning  in 
the  drawing-room  of  the  residence  of  the  bride's  father  (un- 
less, as  sometimes  happens,  the  breakfast  is  spread  in  that 


COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY.  139 

room),  the  happy  cortege  should  proceed  to  the  church  in  the 
following  order  : — 

In  the  first  carriage,  the  bride's  mother  and  the  parents  of 
the  bridegroom. 

In  the  second  and  third  carriages,  bridesmaids. 

Other  carriages  with  the  bride's  friends. 

In  the  last  carriage,  the  bride  and  her  father. 

Costume  of  the  Bride. 

A  bride's  costume  should  be  white,  or  some  hue  as  close  as 
possible  to  it.  Fawn  colour,  grey,  and  lavender  are  entirely 
out  of  fashion.  It  is  considered  more  stylish  for  a  very 
young  bride  to  go  without  a  bonnet,  but  for  her  head  to  be 
covered  with  only  a  wreath  of  orange  blossoms  and  a  Chan- 
tilly  or  some  other  lace  veil;  This,  however,  is  entirely  a 
matter  of  taste ;  but,  whether  wearing  a  bonnet  or  not,  the 
bride  must  always  wear  a  veil.  If  a  widow,  she  may  wear 
not  only  a  bonnet  but  a  coloured  silk  dress. 

Costume  of  the  Bridegroom. 

Formerly  it  was  not  considered  to  be  in  good  taste  for  a 
gentleman  to  be  married  in  a  black  coat.  More  latitude  is 
now  allowed  in  the  costume  of  a  bridegroom,  the  style  now 
adopted  being  what  is  termed  morning  dress  :  a  frock  coat, 
light  trousers,  white  satin  or  silk  waistcoat,  ornamental  tie, 
and  white  or  grey  gloves. 

Hcnv  the  Bridesmaids  should  be  Dressed. 

The  bridesmaids  dress  generally  in  pairs,  each  two  alike, 
but  sometimes  all  wear  a  similar  costume.  Pink  and  light 
blue,  with  white  pardessus  or  mantelets,  or  white  with  pink 
or  blue,  are  admissible  colours.  The  bonnets,  if  worn,  must 
be  white,  with  marabout  feathers  ;  but,  of  late,  bonnets  have 
usually  been  discarded,  the  bridesmaids  wearing  veils  instead. 
The  whole  costume  of  a  bridesmaid  should  have  a  very  light 
but  brilliant  effect,  and  the  tout  ensemble  of  this  fair  bevy 
should  be  so  constituted  in  style  and  colour  as  to  look  well 
by  the  side  of  and  about  the  bride.  It  should  be  as  the 
warm  colouring  in  the  background  of  a  sun-lit  picture,  help- 
ing to  throw  into  the  foreground  the  dress  of  the  bride,  and 
make  her  prominent,  as  the  principal  person  in  the  tableau. 


140  ETIQUETTE  OF 


Arrival  at  the  Church. 

The  bridegroom  meets  the  bride  at  the  altar,  where  h« 
must  take  especial  care  to  arrive  in  good  time  before  the 
hour  appointed. 

Order  of  Procession  to  the  Altar. 

The  father  of  the  bride  generally  advances  with  her  from 
the  church  door  to  the  altar,  followed  immediately  by  the 
bridesmaids.  The  father  of  the  bridegroom,  if  present,  gives 
his  arm  to  the  bride's  mother  if  she  be  present,  as  is  now 
usual  at  fashionable  weddings,  and  goes  next  to  the  brides- 
maids. The  friends  who  have  come  with  the  wedding  party 
proceed  next  in  succession. 

The  bridegroom  with  his  groomsmen  must  be  in  readiness  to 
meet  the  bride  at  the  altar,  the  bridegroom  standing  at  the  left 
hand  of  the  clergyman,  in  the  centre  before  the  altar  rails. 

We  have  seen  on  some  occasions  the  bridegroom  offer  the 
bride  his  left  arm  to  lead  her  to  the  altar,  but  this  should  be 
avoided  ;  for  by  so  doing,  the  whole  order  of  the  procession 
to  the  altar  becomes  inverted,  and  must  then  be  arranged  as 
follows  : — 

The  father,  or  some  male  relative  or  friend,  and  the  mother 
of  the  bride,  or,  if  she  be  not  present,  the  mother  of  the 
gentleman,  or  one  of  the  oldest  female  relations  or  friends  of 
the  bride's  family,  are  to  lead  the  way  towards  the  altar  from 
the  vestry. 

The  friends  who  have  come  with  the  wedding  party  follow 
next  in  succession. 

Then  come  the  bridesmaids  and  bridegroomsmen  in  pairs. 

The  bridegroom,  having  offered  his  left  arm  to  the  bride, 
now  conducts  her  up  the  centre  aisle  of  the  church  to  the 
altar.  The  parties  in  advance  file  to  the  right  and  left  of  the 
altar,  leaving  the  bride  and  bridegroom  in  the  centre. 

The  Marriage  Ceremony. 

The  bridegroom  stands  at  the  right  hand  of  the  bride.  iTie 
father  stands  just  behind  her,  so  as  to  be  in  readiness  to  give 
her  hand  at  the  proper  moment  to  the  bridegroom.  The 
principal  bridesmaid  stands  on  the  left  of  the  bride,  ready  to 
take  off  the  bride's  glove,  which  she  keeps  as  a  perquisite  and 
prize  of  her  office. 


COUR TSH1P  AND  MA  TRIMONY,          •  141 

It  was  ordered  by  the  old  Rubrics  that  the  woman,  if  a 
widow,  should  have  her  hand  covered  when  presented  by 
father  or  friend  to  the  priest  for  marriage  ;  one  of  the  many 
points  by  which  the  *Church  distinguished  second  marriages. 
A  piece  of  silver  and  a  piece  of  gold  were  also  laid  with  the 
wedding  ring  upon  the  priest's  book  (where  the  cross  would 
be  on  the  cover),  in  token  of  dower  to  the  wife. 

The  words"  I  Wiil" 

are  to  be  pronounced  distinctly  and  audibly  by  both  parties, 
such  being  the  all-important  part  of  the  ceremony  as  respects 
themselves  :  the  public  delivery,  before  the  priest,  by  the 
father  of  his  daughter  to  the  bridegroom,  being  an  evidence  of 
his  assent ;  the  silence  which  follows  the  inquiry  for  "  cause  or 
just  impediment "  testifying  that  of  society  in  general ;  and 
the  "I  will"  being  the  declaration  of  the  bride  and  bride- 
groom that  they  are  voluntary  parties  to  their  holy  union  in 
marriage. 

The  words  ' '  Honour  and  Obey  " 

must  also  be  distinctly  spoken  by  the  bride.  They  constitute 
an  essential  part  of  the  obligation  and  contract  of  matrimony 
on  her  part.  It  may  not  be  amiss  here  to  inform  our  fair 
readers  that  on  the  marriage  of  our  gracious  Sovereign  Queen 
Victoria  to  H.R.H.  the  late  lamented  Prince  Albert,  her 
Majesty  carefully  and  most  judiciously  emphasised  these 
words,  thereby  manifesting  that  though  a  Queen  in  station, 
yet  in  her  wedded  and  private  life  she  sought  no  exemption 
from  this  obligation,  and  in  this  respect  placed  herself  on  the 
same  level  with  the  humblest  village  matron  in  her  do- 
minions. 

This  obedience  on  the  part  of  the  wife,  concerning  which 
there  is  oftentimes  much  serious  questioning  among  ladies  old 
and  young,  while  yet  unmarried,  is  thus  finely  defined  by 
Jeremy  Taylor  : — "  It  is  a  voluntary  cession  that  is  required  ; 
such  a  cession  as  must  be  without  coercion  and  violence  on 
his  part,  but  upon  fair  inducements  and  reasonableness  in  the 
thing,  and  out  of  love  and  honour  on  her  part.  When  God 
commands  us  to  love  Him,  He  means  we  shall  obey  Him. 
'  This  is  love,  that  ye  keep  my  commandments  ;  and  if  ye  love 
me,'  says  the  Lord,  'keep  my  commandments.'  Now  as 
Christ  is  to  the  Church,  so  is  man  to  the  wife  ;  and  therefore 
obedience  is  the  best  instance  of  her  love  ;  for  it  proclaims  her 


«42  ETIQUETTE  Of 

submisson,  her  humility,  her  opinion  of  his  wisdom,  his  pre- 
eminence in  the  family,  the  right  of  his  privilege,  and  the 
injunction  imposed  by  God  upon  he*  sex,  that  although  in 
sorrow  she  bring  forth  children,  yet  with  love  and  choice  she 
should  obey.  The  man's  authority  is  love,  and  the  woman's 
love  is  obedience.  It  is  modesty  to  advance  and  highly  to 
honour  them  who  have  honoured  us  by  making  us  the  com- 
panions of  their  dearest  excellencies  ;  for  the  woman  that 
went  before  the  man  in  the  way  of  death,  is  commanded  to 
follow  him  in  the  way  of  love ;  and  that  makes  the  society 
to  be  perfect,  and  the  union  profitable,  and  the  harmony  com- 
plete.'' 

The  Ring. 

The  Rubric  tells  us  "the  man  shall  give  unto  the  woman  a 
ring,  laying  the  same  upon  the  book  with  the  accustomed 
duty  to  the  priest  and  clerk."  This  latter  rule  is,  however, 
not  now  observed,  it  being  usual  to  pay  the  fees  in  the  vestry  ; 
but  to  ensure  the  presence  of  the  ling,  a  caution  by  no  means 
unnecessary,  and  in  some  measure  to  sanctify  that  emblem  of 
an  eternal  union,  it  is  asked  for  by  the  clerk  previously  to  the 
commencement  of  the  ceremony,  who  advises  that  it  be  placed 
upon  the  book. 

We  pity  the  unfortunate  bridegroom  who  at  this  moment 
cannot,  by  at  once  inserting  his  hand  into  the  corner  (the  one 
most  ready  to  his  finger  and  thumb)  of  his  left-hand  waistcoat- 
pocket,  pull  out  the  wedding  ring.  Imagine  his  dismay  at 
not  finding  it  there  ! — the  first  surprise,  the  growing  anxiety, 
as  the  right-hand  pocket  is  next  rummaged — the  blank  look, 
as  he  follows  this  by  the  discovery  that  his  neither  garments 
have  no  pockets  whatsoever,  xiot  even  a  watch-fob,  where  it 
may  lie  perdue  in  a  corner  !  Amid  the  suppressed  giggle  of 
the  bridesmaids,  the  disconcerted  look  of  the  bride  herself,  at 
such  a  palpable  instance  of  carelessness  on  the  part  of  the 
bridegroom  thus  publicly  displayed  before  all  her  friends,  and 
the  half-repressed  disapprobation  of  the  numerous  circle 
around,  he  fumbles  in  the  coat-pockets,  and  turns  them  inside- 
out.  A  further  but  useless  search  causes  increased  confusion 
and  general  annoyance  ;  at  length  it  becomes  evident  that  the 
unfortunate  ring  has  been  forgotten  !  We  may  observe,  how- 
ever, that  in  default  of  the  ring,  the  wedding  ring  of  the 
mother  may  be  used.  The  application  of  the  key  of  the 
church  door  is  traditionary  in  this  absurd  dilemma  j  and  in 


tOURTSHlP  AND  MATRIMONY.  143 

country  churches  a  straw  twisted  into  a  circle  has  been  known 
to  supply  the  place  of  the  orthodox  hoop  of  gold  I 


the  clergyman  usually  shakes  hands  with  the  bride  and  bride- 
groom, and  the  bride's  father  and  mother,  and  a  general  con- 
gratulation ensues. 

The  Clergyman  and  Assistant  Clergymen. 

The  clergyman  of  the  church  is  invariably  invited  to  attend, 
although  the  ceremony  may  be  performed  by  some  clerical 
friend  of  the  bride  or  bridegroom.  This  is  called  "assisting;" 
other  clergymen  who  may  attend  in  addition,  as  is  sometimes 
the  case,  are  said  also  to  "assist."  But  as  much  ridicule  has 
fallen  upon  the  adoption  of  this  custom,  and  as  the  expression 
of  "assisting"  is  considered  an  affectation,  it  is  much  less  in 
vogue  than  it  was  j  and  it  is  no  longer  usual  to  mention  the 
names  of  any  other  clergymen  than  that  of  the  one  who  per- 
forms the  ceremony,  and  of  the  clergyman  of  the  church,  who 
should  be  present  whether  invited  or  not.  It  is,  indeed,  his 
duty  to  attend,  and  he  should  insist  on  so  doing,  inasmuch  as 
the  entry  of  the  marriage  in  the  parish  register  is  supposed  to 
be  made  under  his  sanction  and  authority.  It  should  not  be 
forgotten  that  the  presence  of  an  "assisting  clergyman"  en- 
tails the  doubling  of  the  fees.  The  payment  of  the  fees  is 
generally  entrusted  to  the  bridegroom's  "best  man,"  or  some 
other  intimate  friend  of  his. 

Difference  of  Religion. 

Where  the  bride  and  bridegroom  are  of  different  religions, 
the  marriage  is  usually  first  celebrated  in  the  church  of  that 
communion  to  which  the  husband  belongs ;  the  second  cele* 
bration  should  immediately  follow,  and  upon  the  same  day. 
Some,  however,  regard  it  as  duly  deferential  to  the  bride's 
feelings  that  the  first  ceremony  should  be  peiformed  in  her 
own  communion.  There  is  a  notion  prevalent,  that  in  the 
case  of  a  marriage  between  Roman  Catholics  and  Protestants, 
the  ceremony  must  necessarily  be  first  performed  in  a  Protest- 
ant church.  This  is  erroneous — the  order  of  the  twofold  mar- 
riage is,  in  a  legal  point  of  view,  of  no  moment,  so  long  as  it 
takes  place  on  the  same  day. 


144  ETIQUETTE  Of 


TJie  Return  to  the  Vestry. 

On  the  completion  of  the  cereirony  the  bride  is  led  to  the 
vestry  by  the  bridegroom.  The  bridesmaids  and  bridegrooms- 
men  follow,  the  principals  of  each  taking  the  lead  ;  then  the 
father  of  the  bride,  followed  by  the  father  and  mother  of  the 
bridegroom,  and  the  rest  of  the  company. 

The  Registry  of  the  Marriage. 

The  husband  signs  first ;  then  the  bride-wife,  for  the  last 
time  in  her  maiden  name  ;  next  the  father  of  the  bride,  and 
the  mother,  if  present ;  then  the  father  and  mother  of  the 
bridegroom,  if  present ;  next  the  bridesmaids  and  the  bvide- 
groomsmen ;  then  such  of  the  rest  of  the  company  as  may  de- 
sire to  be  on  the  record  as  witnesses.  All  the  names  must  be 
signed  in  full.  The  certificate  of  the  marriage  is  then  handed 
to  the  bride,  and  should  be  carefully  preserved  in  her  own 
possession. 

The  Wedding  Favours, 

Meanwhile,  outside  the  church,  as  soon  as  the  ceremony  is 
completed — and  not  before,  for  it  is  regarded  as  unfortunate 
— a  box  of  the  wedding  favours  is  opened,  and  every  servant 
in  waiting  takes  care  to  pin  one  on  the  right  side  of  his  hat, 
•while  the  coachmen,  too,  ornament  therewith  the  ears  of  their 
horses.  Inside  the  church  the  wedding  favours  are  also  dis- 
tributed, and  a  gay,  gallant,  and  animated  scene  ensues,  as 
each  bridesmaid  pins  on  to  the  coat  of  each  bridegroomsman 
a  wedding  favour,  which  he  returns  by  pinning  one  also  on  her 
shoulder.  Every  "favour"  is  carefully  furnished  with  two 
pins  for  this  purpose  ;  and  it  is  amazing  to  see  the  flutter,  the 
coquettish  smiling,  and  the  frequent  pricking  of  fingers,  which 
the  performance  of  this  fipuarit  and  pleasant  duty  of  the  wed- 
ding bachelors  and  ladies  "  in  waiting  "  does  occasion  ! 

The  Return  Home. 

The  bridegroom  now  leads  the  bride  out  of  the  church,  and 
the  happy  pair  return  homeward  in  the  first  carriage.  The 
father  and  mother  follow  in  the  next.  The  rest  ' '  stand  not 
on  the  order  of  their  going,"  but  start  off  in  such  tsse  as  they 
can  best  contrive. 


COURTSHIP  AND  MA  TRIMONY.  14$ 


The  Wedding  Breakfast. 

The  bride  and  bridegroom  sit  together  at  the  centre  of  the 
table,  in  front  of  the  wedding  cake,  the  clergyman  who  per- 
formed the  ceremony  taking  his  place  opposite  to  them.  The 
top  and  bottom  of  the  table  are  occupied  by  the  father  and 
mother  of  the  bride.  The  principal  bridesmaid  sits  to  the  left 
of  the  bride,  and  the  principal  bridegrooms  man  on  the  left  of 
the  bridegroom.  It  may  not  be  unnecessary  to  say  that  it  is 
customary  for  the  ladies  to  wear  their  bonnets  just  as  they 
came  from  the  church.  The  bridesmaids  cut  the  cake  into 
small  pieces,  which  are  not  eaten  until  the  health  of  the  bride 
is  proposed.  This  is  usually  done  by  the  officiating  clergy- 
man, or  by  an  old  and  cherished  friend  of  the  family  of  the 
bridegroom.  The  bridegroom  returns  thanks  for  the  bride 
and  for  himself.  The  health  of  the  bride's  parents  is  then 
proposed,  and  is  followed  by  those  of  the  principal  personages 
present,  the  toast  of  the  bridesmaids  being  generally  one  of 
the  pleasantest  features  of  the  festal  ceremony.  After  about 
two  hours,  the  principal  bridesmaid  leads  the  bride  out  of  the 
room  as  quietly  as  possible,  so  as  not  to  disturb  the  party  or 
attract  attention.  Shortly  after — it  may  be  in  about  ten 
minutes — the  absence  of  the  bride  being  noticed,  the  rest  of 
the  ladies  retire.  Then  it  is  that  the  bridegroom  has  a  few 
melancholy  moments  to  bid  adieu  to  his  bachelor  friends,  and 
he  then  generally  receives  some  hints  on  the  subject  in  a  short 
address  from  one  of  them,  to  which  he  is  of  course  expected 
to  respond.  He  then  withdraws  for  a  few  moments,  and  re- 
turns after  having  made  a  slight  addition  to  his  toilet,  in  readi- 
ness for  travelling. 

In  some  recent  fashionable  weddings  we  have  noticed  that 
the  bride  and  bridegroom  do  not  attend  the  wedding  break- 
fast, but  after  a  slight  refreshment  in  a  private  apartment,  take 
their  departure  immediately  on  the  wedding  tour.  But  this 
defalcation,  if  we  may  so  call  it,  of  the  chief  dramatis  persona 
of  the  day,  though  considered  to  be  in  good  taste,  is  by  no 
means  a  popular  innovation,  but  is  rather  regarded  as  a  pru- 
dish dereliction  from  the  ancient  forms  of  hospitality,  which 
are  more  prized  than  ever  on  so  genial  an  occasion  as  a  mar- 
riage. 

Departure  for  the  Honeymoon, 

The  young  bride,  divested  of  her  bridal  attire,  and  quietly 

10 


146  ETIQUETTE  OF 

costumed  for  the  journey,  now  bids  farewell  to  her  brides- 
maids and  lady  friends.  A  few  tears  spring  to  her  gentle 
eyes  as  she  takes  a  last  look  at  the  home  she  is  now  leaving. 
The  servants  venture  to  crowd  about  her  with  their  humble 
but  heartfelt  congratulations  ;  finally,  she  falls  weeping  on  her 
mother's  bosom.  A  short  cough  is  heard,  as  of  some  one 
summoning  up  resolution  to  hide  emotion.  It  is  her  father. 
He  dares  not  trust  his  voice  ;  but  holds  out  his  hand,  gives  her 
an  affectionate  kiss,  and  then  leads  her,  half  turning  back, 
down  the  stairs  and  through  the  hall,  to  the  door,  where  he 
delivers  her  as  a  precious  charge  to  her  husband,  who  hands 
her  quickly  into  the  carriage,  springs  in  after  her,  waves  his 
hand  to  the  party  who  appear  crowding  at  the  windows, 
half  smiles  at  the  throng  about  the  door,  then,  amidst  a  shower 
of  old  slippers — missiles  of  good-luck  sent  flying  after  the 
happy  pair — gives  the  word,  and  they  are  off,  and  started  on 
the  long-hoped-for  voyage  ! 


VI.— ETIQUETTE  AFTER  THE  WEDDING. 

The  dress  of  the  bride  during  the  honeymoon  should  be 
characterised  by  modesty,  an  attractive  simplicity,  and  scru- 
pulous neatness.  The  slightest  approach  to  slatternliness  in 
costume,  when  all  should  be  exquisitely  trim  from  chevelure\.Q 
chaussurg,  would  be  an  abomination,  and  assuredly  beget  a 
most  unpleasant  impression  on  the  susceptible  feelings  of  the 
husband.  He  will  naturally  regard  any  carelessness  or  indiffe- 
rence in  this  respect,  at  such  a  time,  as  a  bad  augury  for  the 
future. 

The  Wedding  Cards. 

The  distribution  of  these  has  long  been  regarded  as  an  im- 
portant social  duty  ;  it  devolves,  as  we  have  already  said,  on 
the  bridesmaids,  who  meet  for  that  purpose  at  the  house  of  the 
bride's  father  on  the  day  after  the  wedding.  The  cards,  which 
are  always  furnished  by  the  bridegroom,  are  two  fold — the  one 
having  upon  it  the  gentleman's  and  the  other  the  lady's  name. 
They  are  placed  in  envelopes,  those  containing  the  lady's  card 
having  her  maiden  name  engraved  or  lithographed  inside 
the  fold,  and  have  all  been  addressed  some  time  before 
by  the  bridesmaids,  to  whom  the  gentleman  has  given"  a 


COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY.  14? 

list  of  such  of  his  friends  as  he  wishes  to  introduce  to  his 
home. 

The  lady  generally  sends  cards  to  all  whom  she  has  been  in 
the  habit  of  receiving  or  visiting  while  at  her  father's  house. 
She  too  has  now  an  opportunity  of  dropping  such  acquaint- 
ances as  she  may  not  be  desirous  of  retaining  in  her  wedded 
life. 

This  point  of  sending  the  cards  has  until  recently  been 
considered  as  one  requiring  great  care  and  circumspection, 
since  an  omission  has  frequently  been  regarded  as  a  serious 
affront.  To  those  parties  whose  visiting  acquaintance  is 
wished  to  be  kept  up,  on  the  bride's  card  it  has  been  the 
custom  until  lately  to  add  the  words  ' '  At  home  "  on  such  a 
clay.  But  this  usage  is  going  out  of  vogue. 

To  send  cards  without  an  address  is  an  intimation  that  the 
parties  are  not  expected  to  call  except  in  the  case  of  friends 
who  reside  far  away,  or  when  the  marriage  has  taken  place 
at  a  distance.  In  fact,  the  address  is  understood  to  denote 
"At  home,"  by  those  who  adhere  to  the  custom;  it  is  better, 
however,  that  those  words  should  be  put  upon  the  cards. 

A  practice  has  grown  up  of  late,  more  particularly  where 
the  circle  of  friends  is  extensive,  to  send  invitations  to  such 
as  are  not  called  to  the  wedding  feast  to  attend  the  ceremony 
at  church,  instead  of  issuing  cards  at  all.  When  this  rule  is 
observed,  it  is  usual  in  notifying  the  marriage  in  the  news- 
papers to  add  the  words  "  No  Cards." 

Reception  of  Visitors. 

On  the  return  of  the  wedded  pair  from  their  honeymoon 
trip,  about  a  month  or  six  weeks  after  the  wedding,  they 
were,'  until  recently,  expected  to  be  "At  home;"  but  the 
formality  of  reception  days  is  now  generally  exploded.  In- 
timate friends,  whether  "At  home"  cards  have  been  issued 
or  not,  will,  however,  be  expected  to  pay  them  a  visit.  But 
if  reception  days  have  been  fixed,  the  bride,  with  her  husband 
and  bridesmaids,  will  sit  "at  home"  ready  to  receive  those 
to  whom  cards  have  been  sent,  the  bride  wearing  her  wedding 
dress,  and  the  company  invited  to  partake  of  wedding  cake 
and  wine  to  drink  the  health  of  the  bride. 

Returning  Visits. 

The  bride  and  her  husband,  or,  in  case  he  may  not  be  able 
to  attend  her,  the  principal  bridesmaid — the  last  of  whose 

10—2 


I48  ETIQUETTE  OF 

official  duties  this  is — usually  return  all  the  wedding  visits 
paid  to  them.  Those  who  may  have  called  on  the  bride 
without  having  received  v:edding  cards  should  not  have  their 
visits  returned,  unless  special  reason  exists  to  the  contrary, 
such  visit  being  deemed  an  impolite  intrusion. 

These  return  visits  having  been  paid,  the  happy  pair  cease 
to  be  spoken  of  as  bride  and  bridegroom,  but  are  henceforward 
styled  the  "newly-married  couple  ;"  and  then  all  goes  on  as 
if  they  had  been  married  twenty  years. 


VII.— PRACTICAL  ADVICE  TO  A  NEWLY-MARRIED 
COUPLE. 

Our  advice  to  the  husband  will  be  brief.  Let  him  have  no 
concealments  from  his  wife,  but  remember  that  their  interests 
are  mutual ;  that,  as  she  must  suffer  the  pains  of  every  loss, 
as  well  as  share  the  advantages  of  every  success,  in  his  career 
in  life,  she  has  therefore  a  right  to  know  the  risks  she  may  be 
made  to  undergo.  We  do  not  say  that  it  is  necessary,  or 
advisable,  or  even  fair,  to  harass  a  wife's  mind  with  the  de- 
tails of  business  ;  but  where  a  change  of  circumstances — not 
for  the  better — is  anticipated  or  risked,  let  her  by  all  means 
be  made  acquainted  with  the  fact  in  good  time.  Many  a 
kind  husband  almost  breaks  his  young  wife's  fond  heart  by 
an  alteration  in  his  manner,  which  she  cannot  but  detect,  but 
from  ignorance  of  the  cause  very  probably  attributes  to  a 
•wrong  motive ;  while  he,  poor  fellow,  all  the  while  out  of 
pure  tenderness,  is  endeavouring  to  conceal  from  her  tidings 
• — which  must  come  out  at  last — of  ruined  hopes  or  failure  in 
speculation ;  whereas,  had  she  but  known  the  danger  before- 
hand, she  would  have  alleviated  his  fears  on  her  account,  and 
by  cheerful  resignation  have  taken  out  half  the  sting  of  his 
disappointment.  Let  no  man  think  lightly  of  the  opinion  of 
his  wife  in  times  of  difficulty.  Women  have  generally  more 
acuteness  of  perception  than  men ;  and  in  moments  of  peril, 
or  in  circumstances  that  involve  a  crisis  or  turning-point  in 
life,  they  have  usually  more  resolution  and  greater  instinctive 
judgment. 

We  recommend  that  every  husband  from  the  first  should 
make  his  wife  an  allowance  for  ordinary  household  expenses 
—which  he  should  pay  weekly  or  monthly— and  for  the  ex« 


COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY.  149 

penditure  of  which  he  should  not,  unless  for  some  urgent 
reason,  call  her  to  account.  A  tolerably  sure  guide  in  esti- 
mating the  amount  of  this  item,  which  does  not  include  rent, 
taxes,  servants'  wages,  coals,  or  candles,  &c.,  is  to  remember 
that  in  a  small  middle-class  family,  not  exceeding  four,  the 
expense  of  each  person  for  ordinary  food  amounts  to  fifteen 
shillings  weekly ;  beyond  that  number,  to  ten  shillings  weekly 
for  each  extra  person,  servant  or  otherwise.  This  estimate1 
does  not,  of  course,  provide  for  wine  or  food  of  a  luxurious 
kind.  The  largest  establishment,  indeed,  may  be  safely  cal- 
culated on  the  same  scale. 

A  wife  should  also  receive  a  stated  allowance  for  dress, 
within  which  limit  she  ought  always  to  restrict  her  expenses. 
Any  excess  of  expenditure  under  this  head  should  be  left  to 
the  considerate  kindness  of  her  husband  to  concede.  No- 
thing is  more  contemptible  than  for  a  woman  to  have  per- 
petually to  ask  her  husband  for  small  sums  for  housekeeping 
expenses — nothing  more  annoying  and  humiliating  than  to 
have  to  apply  to  him  always  for  money  for  her  own  private 
use — nothing  more  disgusting  than  to  see  a  man  "molly- 
coddling "  about  marketing,  and  rummaging  about  for  cheap 
articles  of  all  kinds. 

Let  the  husband  beware,  when  things  go  wrong  with  him 
in  business  affairs,  of  venting  his  bitter  feelings  of  disap- 
pointment and  despair  in  the  presence  of  his  wife  and  family, 
— feelings  which,  while  abroad,  he  finds  it  practicable  to  re- 
strain. It  is  as  unjust  as  it  is  impolitic  to  indulge  in  such  a 
habit. 

A  wife  having  married  the  man  she  loves  above  all  others, 
must  be  expected  in  her  turn  to  pay  some  court  to  him. 
Before  marriage  she  has,  doubtless,  been  made  his  idol. 
Every  moment  he  could  spare,  and  perhaps  many  more  than 
he  could  properly  so  appropriate,  have  been  devoted  to  her. 
How  anxiously  has  he  not  revolved  in  his  mind  his  worldly 
chances  of  making  her  happy  !  How  often  has  he  not  had 
to  reflect,  before  he  made  the  proposal  of  marriage,  whether 
he  should  be  acting  dishonourably  towards  her  by  incurring 
the  risk,  for  the  selfish  motive  of  his  own  gratification,  of 
placing  her  in  a  worse  position  than  the  one  she  occupied  at 
home  !  And  still  more  than  this,  he  must  have  had  to  con- 
sider  with  anxiety  the  probability  of  having  lj  provide  for  au 
increasing  family,  with  all  its  concomitant  expenses. 

We  say,  then,  that  being  married,  and  the  honeymoon  over, 
the  husband  must  necessarily  return  to  his  usual  occupations, 


ISO  ETIQUETTE  OF 

which  will,  in  all  probability,  engage  the  greater  part  of  his 
thoughts,  for  he  will  now  be  desirous  to  have  it  in  his  power 
to  procure  various  little  indulgences  for  his  wife's  sake  which 
he  never  would  have  dreamed  of  for  his  own.  He  comes  to 
his  home  weary  and  fatigued  ;  his  young  wife  has  had  but 
her  pleasures  to  gratify,  or  the  quiet  routine  of  her  domestic 
duties  to  attend  to,  while  he  has  been  toiling  through  the  day 
to  enable  her  to  gratify  these  pleasures  and  to  fulfil  these 
duties.  Let  then,  the  dear,  tired  husband,  at  the  close  of  his 
daily  labours,  be  made  welcome  by  the  endearments  of  his 
loving  spouse — let  him  be  free  from  the  care  of  having  to 
satisfy  the  caprices  of  a  petted  wife.  Let  her  now  take  .her 
turn  in  paying  those  many  little  love-begotten  attentions  which 
married  men  look  for  to  soothe  them — let  her  reciprocate 
that  devotion  to  herself,  which,  from  the  early  hours  of  their 
love,  he  cherished  for  her,  by  her  ever-ready  endeavours  to 
make  him  happy  and  his  home  attractive. 

In  the  presence  of  other  persons,  however,  married  people 
should  refrain  from  fulsome  expressions  of  endearment  to 
each  other,  the  use  of  which,  although  a  common  practice,  is 
really  a  mark  of  bad  taste.  It  is  desirable  also  to  caution 
them  against  adopting  the  too  prevalent  vulgarism  of  calling 
each  other,  or  indeed  any  person  whatever,  merely  by  the 
initial  letter  of  their  surname. 

A  married  woman  should  always  be  very  careful  how  she 
receives  personal  compliments.  She  should  never  court  them, 
nor  ever  feel  flattered  by  them,  whether  in  her  husband's  pre- 
sence or  not.  If  in  his  presence,  they  can  hardly  fail  to  be 
distasteful  to  him  ;  if  in  his  absence,  a  lady,  by  a  dignified  de- 
meanour, may  always  convince  an  assiduous  admirer  that  his 
attentions  are  not  well  received,  and  at  once  and  for  ever  stop 
all  familiar  advances.  In  case  of  insult,  a  wife  should  im- 
mediately make  her  husband  acquainted  therewith ;  as  the 
only  chance  of  safety  to  a  villain  lies  in  the  concealment  of 
such  things  by  a  lady  from  dread  of  consequences  to  her  hus- 
band. From  that  moment  he  has  her  at  advantage,  and  may 
very  likely  work  on  deliberately  to  the  undermining  of  her 
character.  He  is  thus  enabled  to  play  upon  her  fears,  and 
taunt  her  with  their  mutual  secret  and  its  concealment,  until 
she  may  be  involved,  guilelessly,  in  a  web  of  apparent  guilt, 
from  which  she  can  never  extricate  herself  without  risking  the 
happiness  of  her  future  life. 

Not  the  least  useful  piece  of  advice— homely  though  it  be — 
that  we  can  offer  to  newly-married  ladies,  is  to  remind  them 


COURTSHIP  AND  MATRIMONY.  151 

that  husbands  are  man,  and  that  men  must  eat.  We  can  tell 
them,  moreover,  that  men  attach  no  small  importance  to  this 
very  essential  operation,  and  that  a  very  effectual  way  to  keep 
them  in  good-humour,  as  well  as  good  condition,  is  for  wives 
to  study  their  husband's  peculiar  likes  and  dislikes  in  this 
matter.  Let  the  wife  try,  therefore,  if  she  have  not  already 
done  so,  to  get  up  a  little  knowledge  of  the  art  of  ordering 
dinner,  to  say  the  least  of  it.  This  task,  if  she  be  disposed  to 
learn  it,  will  in  time  be  easy  enough  ;  moreover,  if  in  addition 
she  should  acquire  some  practical  knowledge  of  cookery,  she 
will  find  ample  reward  in  the  gratification  it  will  be  the  means 
of  affording  her  husband. 

Servants  are  difficult  subjects  for  a  young  wife  to  handle  : 
she  generally  either  spoils  them  by  indulgence,  or  ruins  them 
by  finding  fault  unfairly.  At  last  they  either  get  the  better 
of  her,  or  she  is  voted  too  bad  for  them.  The  art  lies  in 
steady  command  and  management  of  yourself  as  well  as  them. 
The  well-known  Dr.  Clark,  who  was  always  well  served,  used, 
to  say,  "  It  is  so  extremely  difficult  to  get  good  servants,  that 
we  should  not  lightly  give  them  up  when  even  tolerable.  My 
advice  is,  bear  a  little  with  them,  and  do  not  be  too  sharp ; 
pass  by  little  things  with  gentle  reprehension  :  now  and  then 
a  little  serious  advice  does  far  more  good  than  sudden  fault- 
finding when  the  offence  justly  occurs.  If  my  wife  had  not 
acted  in  this  way,  we  must  have  been  continually  changing, 
and  nothing  can  be  more  disagreeable  in  a  family,  and,  indeed, 
it  is  generally  disgraceful." 

An  observance  of  the  few  following  rules  will  in  all  proba- 
bility ensure  a  life  of  domestic  harmony,  peace,  and  com- 
fort : — 

To  hear  as  little  as  possible  whatever  is  to  the  prejudice  of 
others ;  to  believe  nothing  of  the  kind  until  you  are  compelled 
to  admit  the  truth  of  it ;  never  to  take  part  in  the  circulation 
of  evil  report  and  idle  gossip ;  always  to  moderate,  as  far  as 
possible,  harsh  and  unkind  expressions  reflecting  upon  others; 
always  to  believe  that  if  the  other  side  were  heard,  a  very  dif- 
ferent account  might  be  given  of  the  matter. 

In  conclusion,  we  say  emphatically  to  the  newly-wedded 
wife,  that  attention  to  these  practical  hints  will  prolong  her 
honeymoon  throughout  the  whole  period  of  wedded  life,  and 
cause  her  husband,  as  each  year  adds  to  the  sum  of  his  happi- 
ness, to  bless  the  day  when  he  first  chose  her  as  the  nucleus 
round  which  he  m;ght  consolidate  the  inestimable  blessings  of 
HOME. 


15*       '    ETIQUETTE  OF  COURTSHIP,  6* 

"  How  fair  is  home,  in  fancy's  pictured  theme, 
In  wedded  life,  in  love's  romantic  dream  1 
Thence  springs  each  hope,  there  every  spring  retunis» 
Pure  as  the  flame  that  upward  heavenward  burns ; 
There  sits  the  wife,  whose  radiant  smile  is  given — 
The  daily  sun  of  the  domestic  heaven ; 
And  when  calm  evening  sheds  a  secret  power, 
Her  looks  of  love  imparadise  the  hour  ; 
While  children  round,  a  beauteous  train,  appear, 
Attendant  stars,  revolving  in  her  sphere." 

HOLLAND'S  Hope*  of  Matrimt*f* 


I. — INTRODUCTION. 

No  one  disputes  the  fact  that,  whan  our  first  parents  were 
placed  in  the  garden  of  Eden,  they  wore  no  clothes.  It  vas 
not  until  after  they  had  acquired  the  knowledge  of  good  and 
evil  that  they  turned  their  attention  to  the  subject  of  dress, 
which  is  now  the  engrossing  thought  and  care  of  the 
majority. 

There  are  still  to  be  found  amongst  the  uncivilized  races 
those  who  are  contented  with  as  small  an  amount  of  clothing 
as  satisfied  the  first  inhabitants  of  Eden.  Yet  many  of  these 
show  that  they  study  personal  appearance  quite  as  much  as 
the  most  fashionable  of  Parisian  belles  ;  for  they  bestow 
much  labour,  time,  and  thought,  and  endure  much  actual  suf- 
fering in  the  elaborate  patterns  with  which  they  tattoo,  and, 
as  they  vainly  suppose,  embellish  their  faces  and  persons. 
The  ancient  Britons,  who  painted  themselves  in  various  de- 
vices, also  bore  witness  to  the  natural  craving  after  personal 
adornment,  which  seems  to  be  inherent  in  the  whole  human 
race. 

The  particular  modes  in  which  this  craving  exhibits  itself 
seem  to  depend  upon  climate  and  civilization.  Climate  pre- 
scribes what  is  absolutely  necessary ;  civilization,  what  is 
decent  and  becoming.  In  some  countries  it  is  necessary  to 
protect  the  body,  and  especially  the  head,  from  the  power  of 
the  sun  ;  in  others,  to  guard  it  against  extreme  cold  ;  while 
many  of  the  savage  tribes,  inured  to  the  scorching  rays  of  the 
sun,  almost  entirely  dispense  with  clothing,  and  yet  have  cer- 
tain conceits  and  vanities  which  show  that  personal  appear- 
ance is  not  disregarded.  The  most  hostile  intentions  have 
been  averted,  and  imminent  peril  escaped,  by  the  timely  pre- 


154  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL. 

sent  of  a  few  rows  of  bright-coloured  beads,  or  a  small  piece 
of  looking-glass  ;  and  the  most  trumpery  European  gewgaws 
have  elicited  more  admiration,  afforded  greater  pleasure,  and 
effected  more  goodwill,  than  the  most  costly  treasures  could 
purchase  among  civilized  nations.  A  love  of  finery  seems  to 
belong  to  human  nature.  There  is  an  attraction  in  bright  and 
showy  colours  which  the  uncivilized  cannot  resist,  and  which 
is  equally  powerful  among  those  who  are  civilized,  though 
education  and  other  causes  may  qualify  it. 

When  we  hear  persons  loudly  declaiming  against  dress  as  a 
needless  waste  of  time  and  money — when  we  hear  them  sigh- 
ing for  the  return  of  the  good  old  times  when  it  was  not  so 
much  considered,  we  are  tempted  to  inquire  at  what  period 
in  the  history  of  the  world  those  times  occurred  ;  for  we  can- 
not learn  that  it  was,  at  any  time,  considered  to  be  an  unim- 
portant item  of  expenditure  or  thought.  We  do  not  by  any 
means  affirm  that  it  may  not  occupy  too  much  care ;  that 
there  may  not  be  instances  in  which  it  is  suffered  to  engross 
the  mind  to  the  detriment  of  other  things  more  worthy  of  con- 
sideration ;  that  it  may  not  lead  to  frivolity  and  extravagance. 
All  this  maybe,  and  no  doubt  often  is,  true.  It  is  quite  pos- 
sible, and  more  than  probable.  But  we  also  maintain  that  it 
is  a  great  mistake  to  come  down  upon  it  with  a  sweeping  de- 
nunciation, and,  in  Quaker  fashion,  avow  it  to  be  all  vanity, 
and  assert  that  it  must  be  trodden  out  of  thought  and  eye. 
Even  the  Quakers  themselves,  who  affect  such  supercilious 
contempt  for  dress,  are  very  particular  about  the  cut  of  their 
headgear,  about  the  shade  of  their  greys  and  their  drabs  and 
their  browns,  and,  in  their  scrupulous  neatness,  show  that 
they  think  as  much  of  a  grease-spot  or  a  stain  as  many  a  dam- 
sel does  of  the  ribbon  in  her  cap  or  the  set  of  her  collar  and 
cuffs.  So  that,  after  all,  whatever  professions  people  may 
make,  human  nature  and  human  wants  are  always  the  same. 

It  by  no  means  follows  that  a  person  who  is  well  dressed 
thinks  a  great  deal  about  it,  or  devotes  much  time  to  it.  To 
some  persons  it  comes  quite  naturally.  They  look  well  in 
whatever  they  wear;  and  the  probability  is  that  it  occupies  less 
of  their  time  and  thoughts  than  many  who  arrive,  with  infinite 
more  labour  and  pains,  at  a  less  pleasing  result. 

In  submitting  this  manual  to  the  public,  we  do  not  presume 
to  do  more  than  offer  such  suggestions  as  may  promote  a  better 
style  of  dress,  consistent  with  a  due  regard  to  economy.  No 
doubt  many  of  our  suggestions  will  have  occurred  to  some  of 
our  readers,  and  it  may  seem  almost  needless  to  have  made 
them,  but  we  know  by  experience  in  other  things  that  maxims 


TO  DRESS  WELL.  155 

are  often  forgotten  and  laid  aside  till  something  occurs  to  re- 
vive them. 

It  is  easy  enough  for  the  rich  to  be  in  harmony  with  the 
prevailing  fashion.  They  have  but  to  open  their  purse-strings, 
and  pay  for  any  of  those  freaks  of  fancy  which  are  called 
fashion.  To  combine  a  good  style  with  economy  requires 
judgment  and  contrivance,  or,  what  is  generally  called, 
management. 

There  are  certain  points  which  may  be  considered  as  funda- 
mental, without  which  the  most  rigid  attention  to  matters  of 
dress  will  go  for  nothing.  For  instance,  cleanliness,  which 
according  to  the  old  proverb,  is  rated  so  high  as  to  be  placed 
next  to  godliness,  is  one  of  these,  and  of  primary  importance. 
The  most  costly  attire,  if  unaccompanied  by  it,  is  not  only 
valueless,  but  may  become  a  positive  disfigurement,  while  the 
simplest  dress,  combined  with  cleanliness,  may  be  absolutely 
refreshing.  There  is  no  reason  whatever  why  the  most  menial 
occupation  should  be  admitted  as  any  excuse  for  want  of 
personal  cleanliness.  It  is  always  easy  to  distinguish  between 
accidental  dirt  which  cannot  always  be  avoided,  and  that 
which  K  habitual. 

When  it  is  considered  that  the  object  of  nine-tenths  of 
womankind  is  that  they  may  marry  and  settle  in  life,  as  their 
fathers  and  mothers  have  done  before  them,  it  is  very  natural 
that  they  should  endeavour  to  make  themselves  as  captivating 
as  they  can ;  only  let  them  all  bear  this  in  mind, — let  their 
rank  and  station  be  what  it  may, — that  no  man  is  caught  by 
the  mere  display  of  fine  clothes.  A  pretty  face,  or  good 
figure,  may  captivate  ;  but  fine  clothes,  never.  Though  it  is 
said  that  fine  feathers  make  fine  birds,  yet  no  man  will  be 
caught  by  a  trimming  or  a  flounce. 

To  what  end  then* should  attention  be  given  to  dress?  Why 
should  it  be  made  of  so  much  consequence  as  to  write  a 
manual  upon  it  ?  Because  it  is  one  of  beauty's  accessories ; 
because  as  dress  of  some  kind  is  absolutely  necessary  and  in- 
dispensable, it  is  better  that  people  of  all  classes  should  dress 
well  rather  than  ill,  and  that,  when  it  is  done,  it  should  be 
done  sensibly  and  reasonably  ;  without  carelessness  on  the 
one  hand,  and  without  extravagance  on  the  other.  When  we 
may,  why  should  we  not  choose  the  best  and  most  becoming? 
Why  are  we  to  mortify  ourselves  and  annoy  our  friends  by 
choosing  something  because  it  is  especially  hideous?  No  law, 
human  or  divine,  enjoins  us  to  disfigure  ourselves. 


156  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL. 


II.— TASTE  IN  DRESS. 

IN  dress,  as  in  most  other  things,  there  are  two  kinds  of 
taste;  good  taste  and  bad  taste.  We  use  the  word  "  taste" 
in  a  sense  quite  distinct  from  "style."  It  is  a  disputed  point 
whether  really  good  taste  can  ever  be  acquired,  or  whether  it 
is  only  inherent.  We  are  disposed  to  think  that,  in  its  most 
perfect  form,  it  is  inborn ;  but  that  education,  association, 
familiarity  with  it  may,  and  often  does,  arrive  at  the  same  re- 
sult. For  instance,  a  person  who  has  always  lived  on  close 
and  intimate  terms  with  those  who  are  conspicuous  for  their 
good  taste,  becomes  so  familiarized  with  certain  expressions  of 
thoughts  and  ideas,  habits  of  mind,  and  standard  of  life,  that 
he  unconsciously  adopts  them,  views  things  from  the  same 
point,  and  walks  in  the  same  groove,  quite  irrespective  of  the 
natural  tendencies  of  his  own  mind.  Persons  who  have  no 
natural  gift  or  talent  for  painting,  may  acquire  a  knowledge  of 
the  art  so  as  to  pronounce  with  tolerable  correctness  of  judg- 
ment upon  the  works  of  the  old  masters,  from  merely  associat- 
ing with  those  who  are  conversant  with  the  subject,  living 
amongst  the  pictures  themselves,  or  from  hearing  discussions 
upon  their  respective  merits.  In  fact,  man  is  an  imitative 
animal,  and  can  adapt  himself  very  readily  to  the  circum- 
stances by  which  he  is  surrounded,  as  well  as  acquire  from 
others  the  results  of  their  deeper  research  and  greater  ex- 
perience. Living  in  an  atmosphere  where  good  tasle  prevails, 
it  is  not  wonderful  that  he  should  acquire  that  power  of  dis- 
crimination by  which  the  selection  of  what  is  becoming  and 
harmonious  is  made  easy. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  dress  is  a  very  fair  index  of  the 
mind  of  the  wearer.  Who  but  a  Widow  Barnaby  would 
wear  a  bright  emerald  green  satin  dress  in  the  morning,  and  a 
bonnet  profusely  ornamented  with  large  and  brilliant  scarlet 
flowers  ?  Yet  we  have  ourselves  seen  a  lady,  of  ample  dimen 
sions  and  advanced  years,  similarly  attired,  and  could  think 
of  nothing  but  one  of  those  large  gaudy  macaws  which  are  to 
be  met  with  in  every  zoological  garden.  Who  that  had  any 
regard  for  his  own  liberty  would  marry  such  a  strong-minded, 
pretentious  dame  ?  Who  could  endure  for  life  the  vulgarity 
of  mind  that  suggested  such  a  costume  for  a  fete  in  the 
country  on  a  hot  summer's  day  ?  There  are  some  persons 
who  think  to  overpower  their  neighbours  b,y  the  splendour  of 
their  attire. 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  157 

It  is  much  easier  to  point  out  what  offends  against  good 
taste  than  to  say  in  so  many  words  in  what  it  consists. 

Harmony  of  colour  is  essential  to  being  well  dressed. 
There  are  colours  which  "swear"  so  awfully,  that  no  one  with 
any  pretension  to  good  taste  would  wear  them ;  yet  we  not 
unfrequently  find  instances  of  them.  A  yellow  gown  has  been 
worn  with  a  bright  green  bonnet;  red  and  green,  like  our  friend 
a-la-macaw ;  salmon  colour  and  blue  ;  yellow  and  red ;  green 
and  blue.  Two  ill-assorted  shades  of  the  same  colour,  such 
as  a  dark  and  light  blue  ;  or  a  red  lilac  and  a  blue  lilac  ;  or  a 
rose  pink  and  a  blue  pink  ;  or  drab  and  yellow.  Instances 
might  be  multiplied  without  end  of  incongruous  inharmonious 
blending  of  colours,  the  mere  sight  of  which  is  enough  to  give 
any  one  a  bilious  fever.  There  are  colours  which,  in  them- 
selves, may  be  inoffensive,  but  of  which  only  particular  shades 
assort  well  together.  Blue  and  pink  was  a  very  favourite 
combination  at  one  time ;  but  in  order  to  be  both  pleasing 
and  effective,  it  must  be  one  particular  shade  of  each,  and 
these  softened  and  blended  by  the  addition  of  white.  Again, 
shades  of  scarlet  and  blue  harmonize  we'll  together.  Black 
has  a  wonderful  power  in  softening  down  any  intrusive  bril- 
liancy. It  tones  down  scarlet  and  pink,  blue  and  yellow,  and 
gives  them  an  indescribable  charm,  suggesting  all  kinds  of 
pleasant  things — the  Cachuca  and  castanets,  and  the  mantilla 
worn  with  such  inimitable  grace  and  coquetry  by  the  Spanish 
ladies.  Black  and  white  is  also  a  pleasing  combination. 
White  has  generally  the  opposite  effect  of  black.  It  adds  to 
the  brilliancy  of  the  colours,  and  smartens  rather  than  subdues. 
Many  of  those  who  aim  at  being  well  dressed,  rarely  give 
sufficient  attention  to  this  harmony  of  colour.  One  little 
thing  will  upset  the  whole.  The  choice  of  jewels  or  the  head 
dress  may  destroy  all  the  effect  which  has  been  admirably 
conceived  by  an  experienced  dressmaker.  It  is  on  this  ac- 
count that  some  milliners  prefer  to  supply  all  that  is  requisite 
for  a  particular  costume.  The  man-milliner  at  Paris  is  said 
to  be  very  dictatorial  on  this  subject,  and  to  decide  very  per- 
emptorily as  to  what  shall  or  shall  not  be  worn.  In  morning 
costumes,  a  pair  of  gloves  badly  chosen  will  mar  the  effect  of 
the  whole.  Imagine  a  lady  dressed  in  mauve  silk,  with  a 
mauve  bonnet,  and  emerald  green  kid  gloves  1  or  vice  versa,  in 
green  silk,  with  a  bonnet  to  match,  and  inaia>c-coloured 
gloves!  Dark  green,  dark  mauve,  or  plum  coloured,  dark 
salmon,  or  dark  yellow  gloves,  are  enough  to  spoil  the  most 
faultless  costume  ;  because  they  interrupt  the  harmony  of 


158  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL. 

colour ;  like  the  one  string  of  a  musical  instrument,  which, 
being  out  of  tune,  creates  a  discord  throughout  all  the  rest. 

Variety  in  colour  is  another  great  defect  in  dress,  quite 
apart  from  the  question  of  their  harmony.  A  multiplicity  of 
colours,  though  not  in  themselves  inharmonious,  is  never 
pleasing.  It  fatigues  the  eye,  which  cannot  find  any  repose 
where  it  is  disturbed  by  so  many  colours.  A  bonnet  of  one 
colour,  a  gown  of  another,  with  trimmings  of  a  third,  a 
mantle  of  a  fourth,  and  a  parasol  of  a  fifth  colour,  can  never 
form  a  costume  that  will  please  the  eye.  It  is  laid  to  the 
charge  of  English  people,  that  they  are  especially  fond  of 
this  kind  of  dress,  whereas  a  French  woman  will  dress  much 
more  quietly,  though,  by  no  means,  less  expensively  ;  but  in 
her  choice  of  colours  she  will  use  very  few,  and  those  well 
assorted.  For  instance,  a  grey  gown  and  a  white  bonnet, 
relieved  by  a  black  lace  shawl  or  velvet  mantle,  indicate  a 
refinement  which  may  be  looked  in  vain  where  the  colours  of 
the  rainbow  prevail.  Among  well-dressed  persons  it  will  be 
found  that  quiet  colours  are  always  preferred.  Whatever  is 
gaudy  is  offensive,  and  the  use  of  many  colours  constitutes 
gaudiness.  Birds  of  gay  plumage  are  sometimes  brought 
forward  to  sanction  the  use  of  many  bright  colours.  They 
are  indeed  worthy  of  all  admiration  ;  so  also  are  flowers,  in 
which  we  find  the  most  beautiful  assortment  of  colours  ;  but 
nature  has  shaded  and  blended  them  together  with  such  ex- 
quisite skill  and  delicacy,  that  they  are  placed  far  beyond  the 
reach  of  all  human  art ;  and  we  think  they  are,  to  use  the 
mildest  terms,  both  bold  and  unwise  who  attempt  to  repro- 
duce in  their  own  persons,  with  the  aid  of  silks  or  satins,  the 
marvellous  effect  of  colours  with  which  nature  abounds. 
And  yet  it  may  be  observed  in  nature,  how  gay  colours  are 
neutralized  by  their  accessories  ;  how  the  greens  vary  in  tone 
and  tint  according  to  the  blossoms  which  they  surround.  The 
infinite  shades  and  depths  of  colour  with  which  nature  is 
filled  render  it  impossible  for  anyone  to  attempt  to  imitate  it 
beyond  a  certain  point  of  general  harmony.  This  is  now 
more  generally  ur.tlerstood  than  it  used  to  be ;  but  still  we 
often  stumble  across  some  glaring  instance  in  which  a  gaudy 
eye  and  taste  have  been  allowed  to  run  riot,  and  the  result 
has  been  the  reproduction  of  something  not  very  unlike  a  bed 
of  tulips. 

It  is  in  a  host  of  little  things  such  as  these  that  good  taste 
lies,  and  shows  itself.  We  remember  an  instance  of  a  lady, 
who  was  conspicuous  among  her  fellows  for  her  exquisitely 
gotxLtaste  in  dress,  being  severely  commented  upon  by  two 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  159 

showily-dressed  women,  who  were  the  wives  of  wealthy 
merchants  in  one  of  our  great  seaport-towns.  This  lady  ap- 
peared in  church  quietly  dressed  in  black,  with  a  handsome 
Indian  shawl,  of  which  the  colours  were  subdued  and  won- 
derfully blended.  The  two  representatives  of  the  "nouveaux 
riches  "  looked  at  the  lady  and  then  at  each  other ;  they 
turned  up  their  noses,  and  shrugged  their  shoulders,  and  gave 
vent  to  their  feelings,  as  they  came  away  from  church,  in 
loud  exclamations  of  disdain  :  "  Well !  did  you  ever?  No  ! 
I  never  did  ;  and  she  a  lady  too  !  For  their  part  they  would 
be  ashamed  to  wear  such  a  shabby  old  shawl."  The  shawl 
was  worth  about  its  weight  in  gold  ;  but  because  it  was  not 
showy,  it  found  no  favour  in  their  eyes. 

As  it  is  so  intricate  a  matter,  and  one  of  which  a  very 
slight  thing  can  turn  the  scales,  it  is  not  easy  to  lay  down 
rules  by  which  good  taste  may  be  acquired.  But  there  are 
instances  of  bad  taste  which  can  be  avoided,  and  among  them 
there  is  one  which  is  self-evident,  and  does  not  relate  either 
to  harmony  or  to  variety  of  colours.  We  allude  to  the  good 
taste  of  dressing  according  to  our  means  and  station. 

There  is  an  impression  in  the  minds  of  some  persons,  that 
fine  feathers  make  fine  birds,  and  that  the  world  in  general 
thinks  more  or  less  of  them  according  to  the  dress  they  wear. 
Therefore,  in  order  that  they  may  impose  upon  their  neigh- 
bours by  their  outward  appearance,  and,  as  children  say, 
make-believe  that  they  are  richer  than  they  really  are,  they 
dress  beyond  their  means,  and,  at  the  cost  of  much  privation 
of  even  the  necessaries  of  life,  make  a  display  which  they  are 
not  warranted  in  making.  We  have  known  those  who  have 
pinched  themselves  till  they  have  brought  on  actual  illness, 
or  have  laid  the  foundation  of  a  fatal  disease,  in  order  that 
they  might  dress  themselves  in  a  style  beyond  their  position 
in  life.  In  France  this  is  often  the  case.  A  lady  who,  in 
her  ordinary  attire,  is  as  slovenly  and  as  shabbily  dressed  as 
almost  the  very  beggar  in  the  street,  will  appear  at  some 
evening  party  most  exquisitely  dressed,  and  will  carry  on  her 
back  the  savings  acquired  by  months  and  years  of  penurious 
self-denial. 

We  respect  those  who  struggle  hard  to  maintain  their 
hereditary  position,  and  reverence  within  certain  limits  the 
spirit  of  endurance  which  bears  in  privacy  the  changes  of 
fortune  in  order  to  keep  up  a  becoming  appearance  in  the 
eyes  of  the  world.-  But  we  have  no  sympathy  for  those  who, 
having  no  such  excuse,  having  no  high  lineage,  and  to  whom 
fortune  has  not  been  unkind,  stint  n.nd  sci*»w  that  they  may 


l6o  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL. 

impose  upon  their  neighbours  with  the  notion  that  they  art 
better  off  than  they  really  are, — better  off  in  money,  and 
better  off  in  position.  Imposture  of  this  kind  we  confess  we 
have  no  patience  for.  We  are  very  intolerant  of  it.  It  is  a 
vulgarity  which,  wherever  it  may  be  found,  is  most  offensive. 
We  go  even  further  still,  and  are  disposed  to  blame  all  who, 
whatever  their  circumstances  or  condition  may  have  been  or 
may  be,  dress  beyond  their  means.  It  is  possible  that  some 
relics  of  past  grandeur  may  yet  remain  to  be  worn  on  state 
occasions.  With  that  no  one  can  quarrel ;  but  it  is  a  mistake 
to  make  great  and  unwarrantable  sacrifices  in  order  to  re- 
plenish the  exhausted  wardrobe  on  its  former  scale  of  mag- 
nificence. It  is  better  far  to  accept  fate,  to  comply  with  the 
inevitable,  and  not  waste  time  and  strength  in  fighting  against 
the  iron  gates  of  destiny.  No  one,  whose  esteem  is  worth 
having,  will  respect  us  less  because  we  dress  according  to  our 
means,  even  if  those  means  should  have  dwindled  into  insig- 
nificance. But  if  we  toil  unduly  to  make  ourselves  appear 
to  be  something  that  we  are  not,  we  shall  earn  contempt  and 
reap  disappointment.  It  is  far  more  noble-minded  to  bid 
farewell  to  all  our  greatness,  than  to  catch  greedily  at  any  of 
the  outlying  tinsel  that  may  remain  here  and  there.  This 
indicates  good  taste  more  than  anything.  To  be  what  we 
are,  really  and  simply,  and  without  pretension,  is  one  of  the 
greatest  proofs  of  good  feeling  which,  in  matters  of  dress, 
resolves  itself  into  good  taste. 

There  is  nothing  more  hateful  than  pretension.  The  fable 
of  the  "Frog  and  the  Bull"  illustrates  the  absurdity  of  it. 
Yet  it  is  of  every -day  occurrence,  and  we  continually  meet 
with  instances  of  it.  Persons  in  humble  class  of  life  will 
often  ape  their  betters,  dressing  after  them,  and  absolutely 
going  without  necessary  food  in  order  to  get  some  piece  of 
finery.  Fine  gowns  of  inconvenient  length,  expanded  over 
large  crinolines — silk  mantles  richly  trimmed, — often  conceal 
the  coarsest,  scantiest,  and  most  ragged  underclothing.  We 
have  seen  the  most  diminutive  bonnets,  not  bigger  than 
saucers,  ornamented  with  beads  and  flowers  and  lace,  and 
backed  up  by  ready-made  "chignons,"  on  the  heads  of  girls 
who  are  only  one  degree  removed  from  the  poor-house. 
Sen-ant-girls  who  can  scarcely  read,  much  less  write, — who  do 
not  know  how  to  spell  their  names, — who  have  low  wages, — 
and,  as  little  children,  had  scarcely  shoes  to  their  feet, — who 
perhaps  never  saw  fresh  meat  in  their  homes,  except  at 
Christmas,  when  it  was  given  them  by  some  rich  neighbour,— 
spend  all  their  earnings  on  their  dr«ss4  appear  on  Sundays  in 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  161 

hats  and  feathers,  or  bonnets  and  flowers,  and  veils  and 
parasols,  and  long  trailing  skirts,  which  they  do  not  care  to 
hold  up  out  of  the  dirt,  but  with  which  they  sweep  the  pave- 
ment. Can  it  be  said  that  this  is  good  taste  ?  Assuredly  not. 
It  could  not  well  be  worse. 

The  question  of  station  and  of  means  does  not  seem  to  rule 
the  world  in  general.  Everything  is  considered  to  be  suited 
to  every  body  ;  and  the  maid-of-all-work  does  not  hesitate  to 
copy,  to  the  utmost  extent  of  her  power,  the  dress  of  the 
greatest  lady  in  the  land.  She  does  not  see  why  she  should 
not  dress  as  she  likes,  and  is  not  restrained  in  her  wish  by 
good  taste.  We  do  not  wish  to  argue  in  favour  of  any 
monopoly,  but  we  confess  that  we  should  like  to  see  people  of 
all  classes  regulated  by  good  taste  in  matters  of  dress. 

On  the  Continent  we  find  the  evils  we  complain  of  partially 
remedied  by  national  costumes  ;  but  these  are  fast  diminish- 
ing, and  are  only  to  be  found  in  all  their  perfection  in  those 
parts  into  which  the  railways  have  not  yet  penetrated.  Yet, 
who  does  not  look  with  pleasure  upon  the  clean  white  cap  of 
the  French  servant,  or  bonne,  who  goes  to  market  and  to 
church  without  a  bonnet,  and  with  only  her  thick  snow-white 
cap?  Who  does  not  delight  in  the  simplicity  of  dress  which 
the  French,  Norman,  and  Breton  peasants  still  preserve? 
Contrast  it  with  the  dress  of  our  servant-girls,  with  their  crino- 
line and  absurd  little  bonnets,  and  say  which  is  the  best 
taste. 

After  all  that  can  be  said  there  is  no  doubt  that  one  of  the 
objects  of  dress  should  be  to  enable  people  to  do  what  they 
have  to  do  in  the  best,  the  most  convenient,  and  the  most  re- 
spectable manner.  At  all  events  it  should  not  interfere  with 
their  occupation.  Did  our  readers  ever  see  a  London  house- 
maid cleaning  the  doorsteps  of  a  London  house?  It  is  a 
most  unedifying  sight.  As  the  poor  girl  kneels  and  stoops 
forward  to  whiten  and  clean  the  steps  her  crinoline  goes  up 
as  her  head  goes  down,  and  her  person  is  exposed  to  the  gaze 
of  policemen  and  errand-boys,  who  are  not  slow  to  chaff  her 
upon  the  size  and  shape  of  her  legs.  Can  this  be  called  dress- 
ing in  good  taste  ?  Would  it  not  be  wiser  to  discard  the 
crinoline  altogether  till  the  day's  work  is  done,  and  the 
servants  make  themselves  tidy  for  their  tea  and  their  evening 
recreation.  In  some  families  this  is  insisted  on.  But,  on  the 
other  hand,  it  is  complained  against  as  an  infringement  upon 
the  liberty  of  the  subject,  which  is  an  unreasonable  complaint, 
as  the  subject  may  go  elsewhere  if  she  dislikes  to  have  her 
liberty  so  interfered  with, 

II 


S62  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL 

Good  taste  in  dress  is  a  question  which  is,  by  no  means, 
above  the  consideration  of  old  and  elderly  women.  There 
are  some  who  never  can  imagine  themselves  old.  Whether 
it  is  owing  to  the  eternal  youth  of  their  mind  and  spirits,  or 
to  their  vanity,  we  do  not  pretend  to  say  ;  but  one  thing  is 
certain  that  again  and  again  have  we  been  both  amused  and 
disgusted  by  the  way  in  which  old  women  dress  themselves.' 
A  lady  with  whom  we  were  acquainted  used  to  dress  in  blue 
or  white  gauze  or  tarlatan,  or  any  light  material  she  could  lay 
her  hands  on,  when  she  was  past  eighty,  and  she  vainly  im- 
agined that,  with  an  affectation  of  youth  in  her  gait,  and  with 
the  aid  of  the  rouge-pot,  she  could  conceal  her  age.  She 
would  trip  into  the  room  like  a  young  girl,  with  her  light  gos- 
samer dress  floating  around  her  as  if  she  were  some  sylph  in  a 
ballet.  She  was  a  wonderful  woman  for  her  age,  and,  no 
doubt,  had  been  so  accustomed  to  the  remarks  that  were  con- 
tinually made  upon  her  agility  and  appearance,  that  she  had 
at  last  grown  to  think  herself  almost  as  young  as  she  was  sixty 
years  ago.  It  was  but  the  other  day  that  we  saw  an  old 
woman  with  grey  hair  wearing  a  little  hat  placed  coquettishly 
upon  her  head,  with  a  large  chignon  of  grey  hair  filling  up 
the  back !  Sometimes  we  have  seen  old  women  spuming 
the  sober  tints  which  accord  with  their  years,  and  coming  out 
dressed  like  Queens  of  the  May  in  garlands  and  flowers  ;  and 
•wearing  bonnets  that  would  be  trying  even  to  a  belle  of  eigh- 
teen. But  when  people  resolutely  refuse  to  accept  the  fact 
that  they  are  no  longer  young,  it  is  not  surprising  that  they 
should  run  into  some  extremes,  and  offend  against  good  taste 
by  dressing  in  a  style  utterly  unsuited  to  their  years.  And 
yet  there  is  no  more  pleasing  sight  than  a  good-looking  old 
woman,  who  is  neither  afraid  or  ashamed  to  recognize  the 
fact  of  her  age,  and  wears  the  quiet  and  sober  colours  which 
belong  to  her  years,  modifying  the  fashion  of  the  day  to  suit 
herself,  that  she  may  neither  ape  the  young  nor  affect  to  revive 
in  her  own  person  the  fashions  of  by-gone  days.  Affectation 
of  all  kinds  is  detestable. 

So  also  there  are  rules  for  the  young,  which,  if  attended  to, 
will  prevent  their  offending  against  good  taste.  The  young 
are,  of  all  people,  without  excuse.  The  freshness  of  youth 
has  a  beauty  of  its  own  which  needs  but  little  outward  adorn- 
ment. The  ravages  of  time  have  not  to  be  repaired.  Youth 
has  charms  of  its  own,  and  the  more  simply  it  is  attired  the 
better.  Everything  is  in  favour  of  the  young.  When  they 
adopt  elaborate  or  rich  toilets,  when  they  make  flower-gar- 
dens of  tbeir  heads,  or  wear  strong  and  glaring  colours,  th$ 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  163 

chances  are  that  they  disfigure  themselves.  A  young  girl 
should  never  make  herself  conspicuous  by  her  dress.  Let  it 
be  as  good  as  she  pleases,  as  costly  as  she  can  afford,  still  let 
it  be  simple  and  unobtrusive.  Let  the  general  effect  be  pleas- 
ing and  grateful  to  the  eye  ;  but  at  the  same  time  let  it  be  im- 
possible to  say  in  what  it  consists,  or  to  remember  her  on 
account  of  any  peculiarity  in  it.  If  she  is  beautiful,  let  her 
dress  aid  her  beauty  by  not  drawing  away  the  attention  from 
it.  If  she  is  plain,  let  her  not  attract  all  eyes  to  her  plainness. 
Let  not  people  say  of  her,  "  Did  you  see  that  ugly  girl  with 
that  scarlet  feather  in  her  hat?"  or,  "  with  that  bonnet 
covered  with  pearl  beads,  contrasting  with  her  dark  and 
sallow  complexion  ?"  or,  "  with  that  bright  green  gown,  which 
made  her  look  so  bilious?" 

It  is  in  small  things,  as  well  as  in  great,  that  good  taste 
shows  itself.  Well-fitting  gloves  and  boots,  things  of  small 
moment  in  themselves,  tell  of  a  neat  and  refined  taste.  Quiet 
colours,  well  assorted ;  an  absence  of  glare  and  display,  no- 
thing in  extremes,  betoken  a  correct  eye  and  good  taste. 

It  is,  then,  in  the  harmony  of  colour  ;  in  the  use  of  a  few 
colours  at  one  and  the  same  time  ;  in  dressing  according  to 
their  means,  according  to  their  station,  as  well  as  according  to 
their  age,  that  people  may  be  said  to  show  their  good  taste  in 
dress.  There  are,  doubtless,  other  points  of  detail  which  will 
suggest  themselves  to  the  minds  of  our  readers ;  but  we  are 
confident  that,  if  attention  is  given  to  the  points  which  it  has 
been  our  wish  to  place  prominently  before  them,  there  will  be 
fewer  of  those  startling  peculiarities  and  eccentricities  which 
offend  against  good  taste. 


III.— FASHION  IN  DRESS 

It  is  very  difficult  to  say  what  constitutes  Fashion.  We  allow 
our  French  neighbours  to  prescribe  what  we  shall  wear,  and 
at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  English  milliners  of  any  pre- 
tension flock  to  Paris  to  learn  their  lesson,  and  on  their  return 
to  London,  announce  to  the  public  and  to  their  customers 
that  they  are  prepared  to  exhibit  the  greatest  novelties  in  style, 
form,  and  colour,  which  they  have  been  able  to  procure.  The 
variety  that  is  presented,  as  having  been  just  imported  from 
Paris,  convinces  us  that  there  exists  everywhere,  even  in  the 
great  French  capital  itself,  the  greatest  possible  diversity  of 

II— 2 


164  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL. 

taste ;  and,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  extraordinary  specimen! 
which  are  introduced  to  our  notice,  we  should  infer  that  the 
Parisian  taste  is  by  no  means  faultless. 

We  do  not  mean  to  insinuate  that  a  really  well-dressed  French- 
woman is  not  better  dressed  than  most  English  women,  or  that 
the  French  have  not  a  peculiar  knack  of  putting  on  their  clothes 
to  the  best  advantage ;  for  there  is  no  doubt  upon  the  matter. 
But,  if  we  maybe  allowed  to  judge  from  the  examples  brought 
over  to  us  in  the  shape  of  bonnets  and  head-dresses,  and  other 
articles  of  a  lady's  toilette,  we  should  say  that  there  must  be  a 
considerable  inclination  among  our  foreign  neighbours  to  what 
is  both  gaudy  and  vulgar. 

When  anyone  complains  to  a  milliner  of  the  style  of  any  of 
the  articles  she  has  on  sale,  she  replies  that  she  is  obliged  to 
provide  for  all  kinds  of  taste  ;  that  it  would  not  answer  her 
purpose  to  limit  her  supply  to  those  who  have  a  faultless  eye  ; 
that,  in  order  to  make  her  business  succeed,  she  must  be  pre- 
pared to  accommodate  all  persons,  and  cater  for  them  all  alike, 
studying  to  please  each  individual  in  whatever  way  she  may 
be  disposed  to  be  pleased,  and  never  presuming  to  do  more 
than  merely  suggest  some  slight  improvement  or  modification. 
Ladies  are  apt  to  take  offence  at  their  taste  being  too  severely 
criticized,  and  dressmakers  do  not  always  find  it  the  easiest 
possible  task  to  steer  clear  between  securing  their  own  repu- 
tation as  "  artistes  "  of  fashion  and  good  taste,  and  avoiding 
giving  offence  to  their  patronesses.  It  is  the  public  who  are 
to  blame.  When  some  one  remonstrated  with  Braham  for  his 
florid  and  vulgar  style  of  singing,  he  replied,  it  was  the  people 
and  not  he  who  was  at  fault.  It  was  alike  his  duty  and  in- 
terest to  please  the  public,  and  not  to  instruct  it.  He  sang  to 
be  listened  to  and  encored,  not  to  be  hissed  and  snubbed.  It 
does  not  answer  for  any  tradesman  not  to  be  able  to  supply 
what  his  customers  demand. 

It  is  the  public  who  are  to  blame.  If  they  insist  upon  being 
supplied  with  certain  articles  of  consumption  or  of  dress,  the 
shopkeepers  have  no  alternative  but  to  supply  them.  If  ladies 
prefer  what  is  ugly  and  misbecoming,  the  dressmakers  have  to 
make  it.  It  is  the  old  story  over  again  of  the  demand  creating 
the  supply. 

There  will  always  be  persons  who  do  not  know  how  to  dress 
well ;  who  have  ideas  of  their  own  to  which  they  are  deter- 
mined to  give  expression.  When  they  think  they  are  doing  their 
best,  and  are  bent  upon  astonishing  the  world,  they  somehow 
appear  to  the  worst  advantage.  They  endeavour  to  rival  their 
neighbours  in  strength  i  M»riety  of  colours;  and,  if  they  see  a 


12OW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  165 

beautiful  woman  becomingly  dressed,  they  at  once  copy  that 
woman,  quite  regardless  of  their  personal  appearance,  which 
may  he  the  least  fitted  to  the  style  which  has  taken  their  fancy. 
It  reminds  us  of  the  story  of  a  fashionable  shoemaker,  who, 
having  made  a  pair  of  shoes  for  a  lady  who  was  remarkable 
for  the  beautiful  shape  of  her  foot,  was  applied  to  by  another 
lady  to  make  her  a  pair  exactly  similar  to  Lady  So  and  So's. 
The  shoemaker  looked  with  dismay  at  his  new  customer's  foot, 
which  bore  no  resemblance  whatever  to  that  of  her  friend.  At 
last  he  looked  up  at  the  lady,  shrugged  his  shoulders,  shook 
his  head,  and  said  :  "  Madam,  it  is  impossible  ;  you  must 
bring  me  a  foot  like  her  ladyship's  before  I  can  make  a  shoe 
like  hers."  The  rebuke  was  well  deserved:  but  his  honesty 
lost  him  a  good  customer. 

The  assortment  and  choice  of  colours,  though  chiefly  9. 
matter  of  taste,  is  yet  under  the  direction  of  fashion.  At  one 
time  one  colour  predominates,  at  another  time  another ;  while 
two  colours  may  be  used  together  at  one  time,  which  at  an- 
other are  almost  interdicted. 

There  is  nothing  more  capricious,  more  inexplicable,  more 
wayward,  than  fashion.  It  is  true  that,  taken  as  a  whole, 
there  is  a  certain  conformity  in  the  rules  it  prescribes.  For  in- 
stance, as  the  crinoline  diminishes  in  size  and  the  area  which 
petticoats  cover  in  their  circumference  is  lessened,  so  also 
bonnets  have  grown  smaller,  and  the  enormous  plait  of  hair 
which  has  taken  the  place  of  the  chignon,  keeps  in  countenance 
the  extraordinary  length  of  ladies'  trains. 

If  any  one  cares  to  be  amused  she  might  investigate  the 
fashions  of  by-gone  days.  The  transitions  are  wonderful,  and 
do  not  appear  to  be  guided  by  any  rule.  Those  of  the  gentle- 
men are  simply  absurd.  Since  the  days  of  Vandyck,  there 
has  been  nothing  attractive  in  their  dress  ;  nothing  picturesque. 
It  has  been  as  ugly  as  possible,  and  continues  to  be  so.  The 
nearest  approximation  to  anything  less  hideous  than  the  pre- 
sent fashion  is  in  the  "  knicker-bockers,"  which  are  generally 
worn  by  sporting  men  and  pedestrians — men  who  shoot,  or 
who  are  addicted  to  walking  tours.  There  was  an  attempt  on 
the  part  of  one  or.  two  individuals  to  introduce  them,  by  means 
of  velvet  and  silk  hose,  for  evening  wear  ;  but  the  example 
was  not  followed,  and  the  swallow-tailed  coat  still  prevails. 

In  order  to  dress  strictly  according  to  fashion,  and  to  com- 
ply with  the  ever-changing  caprice,  it  is  necessary  to  have  a 
large  and  well-filled  purse,  and  a  wardrobe  that  is  not  too  ex- 
tensive ;  because, as  the  fashion  varies  with  almost  every  season, 
a  large  number  of  dresses  involves  either  a  great  and  needless 


i«6  „       HOW  TO  DR&SS  WELL. 

waste  of  money,  or  the  necessity  of  always  being  a  little  behind 
the  fafiion  of  the  day.  Besides  which,  as  this  capricious  god- 
dess has  prescribed  what  shall  be  worn  for  driving,  for  walk- 
ing, for  morning,  noon,  and  night ;  and  demi-toilettesand  full 
dress  toilettes  have  each  their  own  peculiarities,  it  really  be- 
comes a  very  serious  item  of  expenditure  for  such  ladies  af 
oiake  it  the  business  of  their  lives  to  follow  the  fashions  of  tifj 
day. 

Fashion  prescribes  rules  for  all.  All  classes  of  society  bow, 
more  or  less,  to  her  decrees.  The  fine  lady  who  frequents  the 
Court,  as  well  as  the  servant-girl  who  sweeps  out  the  area  of 
a  London  lodging-house,  and  all  the  intermediate  classes,  are 
guided  by  Fashion.  Crinolines  and  bonnets  prove  this,  as  weli 
as  the  length  of  the  skirts  which  are  suffered  to  trail  along  '» 
all  the  dirt  and  dust  of  pavement  and  ciossmgs.  It  always 
takes  some  time  before  a  fashion  which  has  beon  adopted  by 
5he  higher  orders  prevails  among  the  lower  ;  but,  if  it  is  a  fash^ 
ion  which  survives  beyond  the  moment,  it  invariably  finds  its 
way  downward  in  the  course  of  time.  Fashion  prescribes  the 
size  and  shape  of  bonnets,  the  make  of  gowns,  their  length 
and  their  size — the  number  of  breadths  and  gores — the  trim- 
mings, the  petticoats,  which  have  become  like  a  second  gown, 
and  all  the  other  paraphernalia  of  a  lady's  tiilette.  There  is 
no  part  of  a  lady's  dress  too  minute  for  her  ii  >pection  and  care 
and  legislation.  The  colour  of  gloves,  the  dys  of  hair,  the  ap- 
plication of  false  hair,  the  make  of  boots  and  vhoes,  the  choice 
cf  ornaments,  are  all  ordered  and  arranged.  Fashion  is  a  sort 
of  "act  of  uniformity,  "  which  would  bring  all  flights  of  fancy 
within  certain  prescribed  Jimits.  It  defines  the  boundaries 
within  which  ladies  may  safely  indulge  their  own  conceits. 

The  best-dressed  persons  are  not  always  those  who  are  1*1 
blindfold  by  the  prevailing  fashion,  nor  by  any  means  thoit 
who  are  strong-minded  enough  to  defy  it,  and  set  it  at  nought. 
Any  one  who  defies  the  fashion  of  the  day,  and,  when  long 
skirts  and  small  saucer-like  bonnets  prevail,  dares  to  walk 
abroad  with  very  short  petticoats,  which  she  holds  up  ua-> 
necessarily  high,  displaying  a  foot  and  ankle  that  had  bettev 
be  hidden  out  of  sight ;  who  spurns  a  crinoline,  and  therefore 
3ooks  like  a  whipping  post ;  'vho  wears  a  many-coloured 
shawl  because  cloaks  and  mantles  are  the  rage  ;  who  adorns 
her  head  with  a  bonnet  that  is  of  the  coal-scuttle  cut,  over 
which  she  fastens  a  large,  coloured  gauze  veil,  because  she 
desires  to  protest,  as  far  as  she  can.  against  the  innovations  of 
fashion  ;  such  a  one  will  never  attract,  nor  influence  the  publ:c 
Kind.  She  will  provoke  a  smi)",  but  will  never  recoi.  tnend 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  167 

her  own  peculiar  and  independent  style  of  dress.  And  she 
who  follows  fashion  like  a  slave,  wears  what  is  prescribed 
without  regard  to  her  own  personal  appearance  ;  who  con- 
siders neither  her  age,  nor  her  figure,  nor  her  station,  nor  her 
means ;  who  simply  allows  herself  to  be  an  advertisement  for 
the  milliner  she  employs,  will  often  appear  eccentric,  and 
generally  ill-dressed. 

It  is  never  sufficiently  considered  that  every  one  has  her 
"  points,"  and  that  nothing  so  much  offends  as  discrepancies. 
We  remember  a  discussion  upon  female  beauty,  when  in- 
stances were  brought  forward  of  persons  who  were  conspicu  • 
QUS  for  their  good  looks,  but  who  could  not  boast  of  one 
really  perfect  feature.  The  effect  of  the  "tout  ensemble" 
was"good,  and  most  attractive,  but  when  the  faces  were  pulled 
to  pieces,  it  was  impossible  to  say  in  what  the  beauty  con- 
sisted. One  of  the  critics  wisely  said,  that  it  was  to  be  found 
in  the  perfect  harmony  of  feature  and  expression.  All  the 
features  were  on  the  same  scale  ;  no  one  feature  overpowered 
the  other,  and  the  expression  called  into  activity  all  features 
alike,  so  that  there  was  perfect  unity  and  harmony  through- 
out. To  compare  small  things  with  great,  we  should  say  that 
this  supplies  a  good  rule  for  dressing  well.  There  should  be 
no  discrepancies.  It  should  be  harmonious,  not  only  in  itself, 
but  harmonious  with  the  person  whom  it  is  intended  to  adorn. 
It  should  be  in  keeping  with  face  and  figure.  No  two  persons 
are  exactly  alike.  Every  one  has  her  "  points,"  which  con- 
stitute her  beauty  and  her  charm  ;  and  these  ' '  points  "  have  to 
be  attended  to  carefully.  A  woman  who  does  this,  witli 
due  regard  to  the  rules  of  fashion,  will  always  be  well  dressed. 
She  will  not  buy  or  wear  a  thing  simply  because  it  has  "just 
come  from  Paris,"  nor  be  influenced  by  milliners  and  shopmen 
who  assure  her  that  the  ugly  article  they  exhibit  is  original  in 
shape  and  style.  Though  fashion  dictates,  and  she  follows, 
yet  she  follows  in  a  way  of  her  own.  She  is  never  behind 
fashion,  and  never  in  advance  of  it.  Perhaps  her  most  ad- 
mired "  toilette  "  has  been  made  at  home,  under  her  own  eye, 
which  has  directed  how  far  a  compliance  with  the  pre- 
vailing fashion  suits  her.  She  does  not  startle  the  world  with 
a  combination  of  strange  colours,  nor  entertain  her  friends 
with  a  peculiarity  of  style  and  make.  What  she  wears  is 
prettily  arranged,  well  made  and  well  put  on,  and  the  effect 
is  both  pleasing  and  refreshing,  and  people  inquire  what  house 
in  Paris  she  patronizes.  She  is  prudent;  and,  keeping  her  own 
secret,  does  not  offend  the  fastidiousness  of  her  fashionable 
friends  by  letting  the  truth  eke  out,  that  her  much-admired. 


1 68  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL. 

Parisian  "toilette"  is,  in  every  sense,  of  home-produce,  but 
smiles  at  their  approval,  and  follows  her  own  plan,  which  is 
so  successful  in  its  results.  Her  costume  is  not  expensive,  and 
she  contrives  that,  whatever  she  wears  shall  not  offend  against 
the  laws  of  Fashion,  while  she  declines  to  be  its  slave.  She 
is  not  addicted  to  sham  jewellery  ;  she  has  no  weakness  for 
tinsel.  What  she  wears  is  good  of  its  kind,  even  when  it  is 
not  costly:  Wherever  she  goes,  she  impresses  everyone  with 
the  fact  that  she  is  a  true  gentlewoman.  She  knows  what  is 
suited  to  her  station  and  age,  and,  without  conceit,  under- 
stands what  are  her  "points."  She  is  well  aware  that  no 
woman  can  afford  to  be  indifferent  to  her  personal  appearance, 
and  that  no  law,  human  or  divine,  requires  her  to  disfigure 
herself.  A  married  woman  has  to  bear  in  mind  that  she  must 
dress  not  only  to  please  her  husband,  but  also  to  reflect  credit 
upon  his  choice.  The  unmarried  to  impart  to  herself  as  pre- 
possessing an  appearance  as  will  be  likely  to  attract  the  oppo- 
site sex.  Neither  before  or  after  marriage  can  any  woman 
neglect  her  person  with  impunity.  Nor  can  she  set  her  face 
entirely  against  the  fashions  of  the  day.  She  may  modify 
them  to  suit  herself,  and  to  bring  out  her  "points;"  but  she 
Cannot  safely  disregard  or  defy  them. 

Fashion  gives,  as  it  were,  the  key-note — supplies  the  hint, 
which  is  taken  and  followed  as  people  can.  It  is  absurd  to 
suppose  that  its  laws  are  stringent,  and  not  elastic,  or  that  all 
persons  must  conform  exactly  to  its  "  dicta."  Who  shall  say 
that  all  must  dress  alike  ?  Tall  and  short,  fat  and  lean,  stout 
and  scraggy,  cannot  be  made  equally  subject  to  the  same  rule. 
In  such  a  matter  as  dress  there  must  be  some  margin  allowed 
for  individual  peculiarities.  Nature  has  not  made  us  all  in 
the  same  mould  ;  and  we  must  be  careful  not  to  affront  nature, 
but  must  accept  her  gifts  and  make  the  best  of  them. 

There  is  one  point  connected  with  the  following  of  fashion 
which  requires  some  attention,  and  which,  if  attended  to, 
will  preserve  us  from  incongruities.  We  allude  to  the  dis- 
position of  some  persons  to  use  various  fashions  together. 
They  are  inclined  to  be  "  eclectic."  They  select  from  by- 
gone fashions,  and  endeavour  to  blend  them  with  those  which 
prevail.  The  result  is  a  painful  incongruity.  Who  would 
dream  of  placing  a  Grecian  portico  to  an  Elizabethan  build- 
ing ?  Why  then  endeavour  to  combine  old  fashions  with  new? 
Why  attempt  to  wear  a  bonnet  of  almost  primitive  form  with 
dresses  of  modern  dimensions  and  style?  or  why  wear  flounces 
when  they  are  out  of  fashion,  and  full  skirts  when  everything 
is  "gored"  into  plainness?  It  is  necessary  to  pay  some  at- 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  169 

tention  to  the  present  style  of  dress,  if  ladies  desire  to  avoid 
peculiarities  and  wish  to  please.  But  it,  of  course,  requires 
a  certain  sense  of  propriety  and  of  fitness.  A  bonnet  of 
diminutive  form  which  su'ts  to  perfection  a  yonng  girl  with  a 
small  oval  face  and  slender  throat,  is  quite  misapplied  when 
adopted  by  a  woman  of  a  certain  age,  whose  figure  has  es- 
caped beyond  the  limits  of  even  "embonpoint,"  whose 
throat  is  not  perceptible,  and  whose  face  and  head  are  large. 
She  requires  something  of  more  ample  dimensions,  that 
bears  some  affinity  in  size  with  the  head  and  face  it  is  in- 
tended to  ornament  ;  something  which  will  modify,  if  not 
conceal,  the  imperfections  which  time  has  developed.  A 
dress  of  a  light  and  airy  kind  does  not  become  a  matron  ; 
nor  can  that  which  suits  a  slight  and  elastic  figure  be  worn 
with  impunity  by  what  is  called  a  "comely  dame." 

Fashion  prescribes  all  sorts  of  rules  about  breadths,  gores, 
flounces,  and  such  like,  and  these  are  the  hints  which  she 
gives,  and  which  ladies  must  take  and  apply  to  themselves  to 
the  best  advantage.  There  is  ample  margin  allowed  for  each 
one  to  adopt  what  is  best  suited  to  her  own  particular  style 
of  beauty.  Perhaps  there  never  was  a  time  when  so  much 
liberty  was  allowed  to  ladies  to  dress  according  to  their  own 
fancy.  Of  course  we  mean  within  certain  limits.  If  any 
one  will  consent  to  keep  within  those  limits,  and  not  do 
actual  violence  to  the  decrees  of  fashion,  she  may,  to  a  con- 
siderable degree,  follow  her  own  fancy.  If  the  general  idea 
which  fashion  has  submitted  to  society  as  the  sine  qua  non  of 
being  well  dressed  is  borne  in  mind,  she  is  very  tolerant  of 
the  various  modifications  which  ladies,  for  the  most  part, 
wisely  adopt,  that  they  may  not  make  "guys"  of  themselves. 
Nothing  illustrates  this  more  than  the  hats  and  bonnets  which 
are  worn.  Their  variety  is  so  great  that  their  names  might 
be  termed  "legion;"  and  a  pretty  woman  may  adopt  all 
kinds  of  conceits,  providing  she  neither  offends  the  eye  nor 
defies  the  prevailing  fashion.  One  may  come  out  as  a  shep- 
herdess, another  like  a  Spanish  cavalier  in  the  time  of  Charles 
the  Second,  another  with  a  three-cornered  hat  such  as  state- 
coachmen  wear  on  "drawing-room  days,"  only  of  course  a 
very  small  edition  of  it ;  another  with  a  little  coquettish  hat 
that  suggests  one  of  Watteau's  most  successful  pictures  ;  but 
no  one  may  wear  one  of  those  large  mushroom  bonnets  which 
were  worn  some  five-and-thirly  years  ago,  and  which  were 
ornamented  by  large  bows  of  ribbon  stiffened  with  wire,  and 
by  great  nosegays  of  flowers  which  resembled  a  garden 
flower-pot.  It  is  only  on  condition  that  no  violence  is  done 


1 76  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL. 

to  the  decrees  of  fashion  or  to  the  ideas  she  would  suggest, 
that  so  much  liberty  is  allowed.  We  think  that  the  result  is 
most  satisfactory,  as  there  is  an  infinite  variety  to  please  the 
eye,  and  there  are  abundant  opportunities  for  every  one  to 
attend  to  her  own  comfort  and  ease.  Of  course  there  have 
been,  and  still  are,  certain  fashions  which  are  quite  "  di- 
rigueur  "  among  the  really  fashionable  world,  and  which  are 
annoying  to  the  public  generally,  such  as  large  crinolines  and 
long  skirts,  and  more  especially  the  long  trains  which  are 
now  in  vogue.  Crinolines,  though  reduced  in  size,  are  not 
discarded,  except  in  some  instances  which,  as  our  eyes  are 
not  yet  accustomed  to  their  absence,  present  a  scarcely  decent 
appearance. 

One  word  more  before  we  close  this  division  of  our  subject. 
If  persons  are  inclined  to  rail  against  Fashion  and  denounce 
it,  let  them  remember  that  there  is  a  fashion  in  everything. 
In  thought,  in  politics,  in  physic,  in  art,  in  architecture,  in 
science,  in  speech,  in  language,  and  even  in  .retegion  we  find 
fashion  to  have  a  guiding  and  governing  power.  How  can 
we  otherwise  account  for  the  change  which  has  taken  place 
in  language,  which  is  not  the  same  that  it  was  fifty  years  ago  ? 
There  are  phrases  which  have  become  obsolete  ;  there  are 
words  which  have  been  almost  lost  out  of  our  vocabulary, 
which  have  changed  their  meaning,  or  which  fashion  has 
tabooed.  And  in  other  matters  we  find  alterations  which  can 
only  be  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  fashions  change.  They 
are  not  the  result  of  development  simply,  which  may  anil 
must  frequently  occur  in  sciences  ;  but  they  are  the  result  of 
those  variations  in  custom  and  usage  for  which  it  is  impossible 
to  find  any  more  expressive  word  than  that  of  Fashion. 
Why  then  should  not  dress  nave  its  fashions  also,  and  why 
should  not  those  fashions  change  as  time  advances,  and  why 
should  not  fashion  rule  in  this  as  in  other  things  ? 


IV.— EXPENSE  OF  DRESS. 

This  is  a  portion  of  our  subject  which  awakens  the  live- 
liest  interest  in  persons  of  both  sexes.  It  is  the  complaint  of 
many  men  of  our  times  that  the  dress  of  women  is  a  very 
costly  affair.  The  complaint  is  often  made  apparently  under 
a  sense  of  wrong,  as  if  they  had  been  made  to  suffer  from  it. 
Some  time  ago  considerable  attention  was  directed  to  the 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  171 

subject  by  some  letters  which  appeared  in  one  of  the  leading 
journals  of  the  day,  in  which  grave  reflections  were  made 
npon  the  exceeding  costliness  of  dress  at  the  present  time. 
It  was  said  to  exceed  that  of  any  former  age,  and  to  be  the 
reason  why  so  many  young  men  flinch  from  the  idea  of  matri- 
mony. Among  these  requirements  dress  occupies  a  promi- 
nent place.  The  style  and  variety  of  dress  which  is  affirmed 
to  be  necessary  for  young  ladies  in  the  highest  grade  of 
society  renders  it  no  easy  matter  for  them  to  find  men  both 
qualified  and  willing  to  afford  them  sufficient  funds  to  procure 
what  custom  had  created  into  a  necessity.  It  may  be  owing 
to  the  quantity  of  material  which  the  dressmakers  require  in 
order  to  make  a  dress,  as  well  as  to  the  variety  which  fashion 
has  prescribed.  At  all  events,  let  people  say  what  they  may, 
we  believe  that  there  is  no  doubt  whatever  that  the  expense 
of  dress  has  become  very  much  greater  than  it  was  thirty 
years  ago.  A  dressmaker  could  then  make  a  very  first-rate 
gown,  suited  to  any  function  at  Court  or  elsewhere,  for  ten  or 
twelve  pounds,  whereas  now  the  most  ordinary  gown,  suit- 
able to  wear  only  at  a  family  dinner-party,  cannot  be  made 
for  less  than  fourteen  or  fifteen  pounds.  A  ball  gown  will 
cost  eighteen  or  twenty  pounds ;  and  in  Paris  a  thousand 
francs,  (forty  pounds,)  is  considered  nothing  out  of  the  way  ; 
and  evening  and  ball  dresses  often  cost  two  thousand  francs 
each.  It  is  not  surprising  then  that,  if  this  is  the  ordinary 
expense  of  a  lady's  dress,  men  should  hesitate  before  they 
embark  in  matrimony,  and  add  so  large  an  item  to  their  ex- 
penditure. We  remember  to  have  heard  it  said  that  five 
hundred  a  year  pin-money  was  a  very  small  allowance  for  a 
young  married  woman  ;  that  it  would  require  the  most  won- 
derful management  to  enable  her  to  dress  well  and  keep 
within  her  income.  Of  course  every  one  knows  that  there 
are  many  women  who  dress  upon  infinitely  less  ;  but  we  are 
speaking  of  those  who  profess  to  dress  well,  and  whose  posi- 
tion in  society  requires  them  to  be  well  dressed. 

What  then  is  the  reason  why  dress  has  become  so  expen- 
sive ?  Is  it  because  the  materials  which  are  in  use  are  costly, 
or  is  it  because  the  needlewomen  are  better  paid,  and,  wages 
being  higher,  dressmakers'  charges  are  also  higher  in  propor- 
tion? We  do  not  believe  that  either  of  these  are  the  cause; 
but  simply  that  a  larger  quantity  is  required,  and  that  variety 
has  become  a  "sine-qua-non."  Some  years  ago  the  cost  of  a 
silk  dress  was  about  half  what  it  is  now, — not  because  the  price 
of  silk  has  increased,  but  because  a  much  larger  quantity  is 
required.  Perhaps  of  the  two,  silk  is  cheaper  than  it  used  to 


172  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL. 

be ;  hut  where  ten  and  twelve  yards  sufficed,  twenty  and 
twenty-three  are  scarcely  sufficient.  Then  the  variety  that  is 
considered  indispensable  adds  to  the  cost  of  dress.  Where 
three  or  four  dresses  constituted  the  wardrobe  of  many,  three 
times  that  number  are  now  considered  a  scanty  supply.  Some 
ladies  do  not  like  to  wear  the  same  dress  twice  at  the  same 
place  ;  and,  if  they  visit  in  the  country,  take  with  them  lug- 
gage enough  for  a  twelvemonth,  and  appear  daily,  and,  in 
some  instances,  three  times  a  day,  in  some  fresh  costume.  It 
may  perhaps  be  said  that  these  are  exceptional  cases,  but  they 
are  not  so.  Ladies-maids,  servants,  and  even  village  girls 
have  more  gowns  now  than  persons  of  the  same  class  had 
formerly.  This  adds  to  the  cost  of  dress,  and  makes  it  alto- 
gether a  more  expensive  affair  than  it  used  to  be.  Our  fore- 
mothers  who  rejoiced  in  farthingales  had,  no  doubt,  the  most 
costly  attire,  but  it  lasted  longer,  and  became  the  inheritance 
of  children  and  children's  children  ;  besides  which  their  ward- 
robes were  not  by  any  means  so  expensive  as  that  of  a  "grande 
dame"  of  1875. 

Materials  are  an  important  element  in  the  matter  of  dress, 
and  we  propose,  in  the  few  remarks  we  shall  make  on  the 
subject  of  expense,  to  offer  some  suggestions  which  shall  tend 
to  make  it  less. 

In  the  first  place  every  young  lady  is  without  excuse  who 
spends  a  large  sum  annually  upon  her  dress,  for  she  possesses 
in  her  youth  that  which  makes  the  most  simple  and  inexpen  • 
sive  attire  the  most  suitable  and  becoming.  Everything  is  ap- 
propriate to  youth.  The  freshest  flowers  of  the  garden,  the 
plainest  muslins,  tarlatans  and  tulles  do  not  come  amiss.  In 
the  country  fresh  flowers  are  more  admissible  than  those  that 
are  artificial.  In  London  it  is  the  reverse.  The  heat  of  a 
crowded  ball-room  soon  makes  the  brightest  flowers  wither  ; 
besides  which  there  would  be  an  affectation  in  a  young  lady's 
making  her  appearance  in  a  London  ball-room  decked,  like 
the  goddess  Flora,  with  real  flowers,  while  all  the  world 
prefer  the  artificial  as  the  least  troublesome  and  the  most 
enduring. 

For  the  young,  cheap  and  inexpensive  materials  are  often 
the  most  effective.  Heavy  silks  and  satins  are  out  of  place. 
It  is  more  a  question  of  colour  and  make  than  material.  How 
often  a  bright  green  and  white  muslin,  or  even  cotton,  well 
made  and  well  put  on,  worn  by  a  pretty  girl  with  a  good 
complexion  and  graceful  "tournure,"  puts  to  shame  and 
thoroughly  eclipses  a  more  costly  and  elaborate  "toilette  !" 
How  often  we  have  been  charmed  by  the  appearance,  at  the 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  173 

breakfast  table,  of  a  young  fresh  looking  girl,  who  in  her 
simple  and  unpretending,  but  well-selected  attire,  suggests 
all  that  is  most  beautiful  in  nature,  the  early  sunrise,  the 
opening  rose-bud,  encased  in  its  calix  of  tender  green  !  Such 
a  sight  has  refreshed  while  it  has  gratified  the  eye,  and  if  the 
young  only  knew  how  very  little  is  required  to  add  to  those 
charms  which  are  the  property  of  youth,  they  would  not  be  at 
so  much  pains  to  copy  those  elaborate  "toilettes"  which 
seem  to  be  invented  only  to  repair  the  inroads  and  damages 
of  years,  and  to  enrich  the  dressmakers,  and  which  are  quite 
"  de  trop,"  quite  out  of  place  with  the  young.  Many  are  the 
materials  which  suit  the  young  and  which  are  inexpensive. 
Alpacas  of  various  shades,  muslins,  foulards,  tarlatan,  tulle, 
light  silks,  light  in  texture  as  well  as  colours.  These  are  not 
expensive  materials.  We  remember  at  this  moment  an  exceed- 
ingly effective  costume,  made  of  white  alpaca  with  a  narrow 
green  stripe,  which  was  worn  with  a  crinoline  bonnet  trimmed 
with  mauve.  The  bonnet  and  dress  did  not  cost  more  than 
£2  ios.,  and  scarcely  as  much.  It  was  made  at  home,  and  all 
that  was  required  for  the  gown  was  nothing  when  compared 
to  the  bills  which  the  most  ordinary  dressmaker  would  have 
run  up  for  tapes  and  buttons,  and  hooks  and  eyes. 

But  dressmakers  have  their  fortunes  to  make,  and  it  is  well 
for  them  that  there  are  people  in  the  world  who  are  rich 
enough  to  employ  them.  Some  dressmakers  refuse  to  make 
up  what  is  called  "  the  lady's  own  materials," — that  is,  they 
require  their  customers  to  buy  the  materials  of  them,  and 
therefore  it  is  by  no  means  difficult  to  understand  that,  under 
such  circumstances,  a  dressmaker's  bill  may  reach  any  amount, 
and  their  profits  become  enormous. 

Compared  with  the  supplies  of  thirty  years  ago  there  is  no 
doubt  that  the  materials  out  of  which  ladies  may  make  their 
selection  have  increased  very  considerable.  The  variety  of 
foulards,  of  gauzes,  of  alpacas,  of  camlets,  of  poplins,  popli- 
nettes,  and  Japanese  silks,  and  even  of  silks  themselves,  which 
vary  from  three  shillings  to  eight  and  nine  shillings  the  yard, 
of  satins,  of  velvets,  and  velveteens,  have  brought  dress  within 
the  scope  of  moderate  incomes.  Each  year  some  novelty  is 
introduced,  and  a  clever  hit  in  the  name  given  to  it  makes  it 
popular;  just  as  that  of  "Japanese  silk"  made  people  run 
eagerly  after  a  material  of  home  manufacture,  which  is  made 
of  silk  and  cotton.  There  are  a  host  of  other  materials 
cheaper  still,  which  may  be  obtained  for  a  few  shillings  the 
dress,  some  of  which  are  not  by  any  means  to  be  de?pised. 
With  so  great  a  supply,  it  is  strange  that  dress  should  b«  so 


174  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL. 

costly  ;  but  the  fact  is,  that  this  is  an  age  in  which  people  are 
more  disposed  to  ape  their  betters  than  to  dress  according  to 
their  means.  If,  however,  they  desire  to  spend  only  a  small 
sum,  they  must  take  some  trouble  about  it,  and  must  contrive 
how  to  produce  a  good  result  with  simple  and  even  common 
materials. 

The  great  improvement  in  muslins  and  in  calicoes — the  good 
patterns  which  are  printed  on  common  linens — have  made  it 
quite  inexcusable  for  people  to  dress  ill.  Some  of  the  pret- 
tiest costumes  that  we  have  seen  have  been  made  in  cheap 
materials,  and  persons  who  have  admired  them  have  been 
quite  astonished  to  find  that  they  have  bestowed  their  admira- 
tion upon  an  "inferior  article." 

For  autumn  wear  there  are  camlets,  alpacas,  and  serge  of 
all  colours,  which  are  designated  "Yachting  and  Sea-side 
Costumes,"  but  which  are  suitable  for  all  places.  Their  effect 
is  exceedingly  good,  braided  or  otherwise.  They  may  be  got 
anywhere,  though  Cowes  boasts  of  having  the  best  assort- 
ment. We  have  seen  white  braided  with  black,  or  with  a 
pattern  printed  on  it  in  black  ;  blue,  light  and  dark  ;  brown  ; 
green  braided  in  white,  the  effect  of  which  has  been  good  ; 
and  we  have  seen  scarlet,  which  is  very  trying,  and  more 
suited  for  winter.  It  is  effective  when  toned  down  with  black 
velvet,  but  it  looks  rather  heavy  and  overpowering. 

For  winter,  there  are  droguets,  reps  in  worsted  and  in  silk, 
merinos,  tweeds,  linseys,  and  velveteens.  We  do  not  men- 
tion silk,  because  it  is  universally  acknowledged  that  there  is 
nothing  so  well  suited  to  all  seasons.  It  looks  better  than 
anything  else,  is  the  pleasantest  to  wear,  and  may  be  pro- 
cured of  almost  any  substance.  Velveteens  have  a  very  good 
effect — better  than  most  materials ;  and  when  they  are  braided 
well,  they  are  very  effective.  The  black  looks  the  best,  and 
is  the  most  serviceable  ;  and  when  worn  with  a  mantle,  or 
cloak,  or  jacket  to  match,  it  makes  one  of  the  best  costumes 
for  walking  or  driving.  The  brown  velveteen  is  effective. 
It  is  considered  warm  and  light, — two  most  important  quali- 
ties for  clothing  ;  for,  with  the  amplitude  of  modern  skirts,  it 
is  absolutely  essential  that  materials  should  be  light  as  well 
as  warm. 

For  spring  and  summer  it  is  needless  to  specify  more  ma- 
terials than  have  been  already  named.  The  only  point  to  be 
considered  is  that  in  spring,  dress  should  be,  in  our  uncertain 
climate,  suited  to  changes  of  weather  and  temperature,  and 
should  be  in  harmony  with  the  season  when  nature  is 
putting  on  her  best  apparel,  and  woods  and  fields  become 


HOW  TO  £>J?£SS  WELL.  175 

hourly  more  green  and  full  of  vegetation.  In  summer,  dress 
should  be  light  and  cool  and  quiet ;  because,  beneath  a  glow- 
ing sun,  bright  colours  do  not  please,  unless  they  harmonize 
with  the  blue  sky  or  green  earth. 

The  second  important  point  in  matters  of  dress  is  the  make 
or  cut.  Upon  this  depends  the  question  whether  cheap  ma- 
terials can  be  worn.  An  ordinary  stuff  or  calico  well  made, 
fashionably  made,  and  well  put  on,  is  never  out  of  place.  It, 
not  unfrequently,  puts  to  shame  many  richer  materials  which 
are  not  so  well  made  nor  so  well  selected. 

This  question  of  make  or  cut  (call  it  which  you  please)  is 
not  sufficiently  considered,  especially  by  the  young. 

Some  people  think  no  one  can  be  well  dressed  who  is  not 
expensively  dressed,  whose  gown  is  not  richly  trimmed  ;  but 
it  is  a  great  mistake.  Many  persons  are  absolutely  ill-dressed 
who  spend  a  fortune  upon  theit  clothes. 

The  young  should  bear  in  mind  that  simplicity  is  what  har- 
monizes best  with  youth,  but  care  must  be  taken  to  avoid  the 
simplicity  of  the  school- room  and  of  a  "miss  in  her  teens." 
We  can  call  to  mind  a  young  lady  who  made  her  appearance 
at  an  evening  party  in  London,  where  "  all  the  world  and  his 
wife"  were  collected  together,  and  when  it  was  necessary  to 
be  somewhat  smart,  in  a  rather  skimp  spotted  muslin,  with  a 
black  belt  and  a  few  black  cherries  in  her  hair.  She  looked, 
as  the  reader  will  easily  believe,  like  a  young  lady  in  her 
teens,  who,  as  Byron  said,  "  smells  of  bread  and  butter." 
She  was  much  on  the  wrong  side  of  twenty.  By  her  side 
stood  a  young  girl  who  had  not  passed  nineteen  summers, 
dressed  in  the  freshest  costume  of  plain  white  tulle,  with  bright 
turquoise  blue  flowers  in  her  hair,  the  very  impersonation  of 
youth  and  loveliness.  The  cost  of  the  dress  of  these  two 
young  ladies  was  about  the  same,  but  the  appearance  of  the 
two  was  by  no  means  the  same.  The  one  was  fresh  and 
simple  ;  the  other  simple  but  unfresh.  The  one  attracted  ; 
the  other  repelled.  At  the  same  time  we  saw  two  sisters, 
one  a  blonde  and  the  other  dark,  dressed  unadvisedly  alike  in 
dark  blue  tarlatan,  with  an  infinite  number  of  beads  round 
the  body,  peplum,  and  sleeves.  It  was  in  the  height  of 
summer,  and  the  costume  looked  fusty  and  oppressive  ;  while 
not  far  off  stood  a  young  girl  in  a  white  and  green  tarlatan 
dress  prettily  trimmed  with  old  lace  and  green  ribbon,  with 
one  large  white  flower  in  her  hair — the  very  type  of  spring 
and  early  summer.  None  of  these  costumes  were  expensive, 
but  they  had  widely  different  results. 

We  return  to  our  former  assertion  that  it  is  the  make  which 


176  HOW  TO  DKESS  WELL. 

renders  a  common  material  wearable  in  any, — even  the  verj 
best  society. 

It  requires,  of  course,  a  knowledge  of  the  prevailing  fashion, 
which  may  easily  be  arrived  at  by  the  simple  process  of  taking 
in  "  Le  Follet,"  or  some  good  monthly  publication  on  fashions. 
It  requires  also  a  correct  eye  and  a  good  taste  to  select  such 
materials  as  shall  harmonize  well  with  the  style  which  is  in 
favour.  It  requires,  above  all,  a  good  workwoman,  who 
knows  how  to  cut  out,  how  to  put  in  the  gores,  how  to  ar- 
range the  breadths,  where  to  put  the  fulness  ;  where  to  make 
the  dress  full,  and  where  tight,  how  to  avoid  creases,  how  to 
cut  the  sleeves,  and  how  to  put  them  in,  how  to  give  the  arm 
sufficient  room  so  that  the  back  shall  not  pucker,  how  to  cut 
the  body  so  that  short  waisted  ladies  shall  not  seem  to  have 
too  short  a  waist,  nor  long- waisted  ladies  too  long  a  one. 
This  important  question  of  a  good  lady's-maid  is  one  upon 
which  depends  the  probability  of  being  well  dressed  and 
economically  dressed.  It  is  absolutely  necessary  for  a  person 
of  moderate  means,  to  whom  the  needless  out-lay  of  a  shilling 
is  of  real  importance,  to  make  her  things  at  home.  If  she 
cannot  make  them  herself,  she  must  find  a  clever  needle- 
woman who  has  learned  her  business,  and  knows  milliner's 
phraseology  and  the  meaning  of  terms,  and  how  to  cut  out  to  the 
best  advantage.  She  will  then  be  able  to  use  common  ma- 
terial, buy  smaller  quantities  of  them,  and  will  always  look 
well  dressed.  Her  gown  will  always  be  ironed  when  it  wants 
ironing ;  it  will  be  mended  whenever  a  stitch  has  broken 
loose  ;  the  collars  and  cuffs  will  always  be  clean  and  of  the 
right  shape  and  size  ;  and  no  one  will  enquire  into  the  quality 
and  cost  of  the  material  of  which  the  effect  is  so  pleasing. 

A  lady's-maid  that  is  quick  and  efficient  is  the  best  friend 
a  lady  can  have  who  wishes  to  be  well  dressed  and  at  a  small 
expense.  She  saves  her  wages  again  and  again.  But  not  so 
with  a  lady's-maid  who  does  not  understand  her  business.  If 
she  is  always  requiring  assistance,  and  cannot  make  the 
simplest  gown  without  a  needle-woman  to  help  her,  and  will 
r.ot  attempt  a  smart  dress  at  all,  or  who  makes  it  so  slow 
that  either  the  occasion  for  which  it  is  required  slips  by,  or  a 
much  longer  notice  is  necessary  than  the  most  fashionable 
dressmaker  would  demand  in  the  very  height  of  the  London 
season,  instead  of  being  useful,  she  is  an  incumbrance.  The 
dressmaker's  bill  is  not  avoided.  A  steady  lady's-maid  who  is 
quick  at  her  needle  and  quick  with  her  eye,  can  always  com- 
mand good  wages  and  a  good  place,  and  they  who  possesi 
•och  a  treasure  will  never  be  will:ng  to  part  with  her. 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  177 

Any  one  who  has  not  thoroughly  gone  into  the  question 
would  not  believe  what  a  saving  it  is  to  "make  at  home."  It 
is  not  only  that  the  milliner's  bill  is  saved,  but  the  materials 
which  are  used  do  not  cost  so  much.  Nor  is  this  all,  an 
efficient  lady's-maid  can  clean  and  turn  and  re-make  dresses 
so  as  to  give  them  the  look  of  new.  To  those  who  have  but 
small  incomes,  it  is  of  great  importance  not  to  be  under  the 
necessity  of  making  frequent  additions  to  their  wardrobes, 
and  anyone  who  can,  by  good  management,  enable  them  to 
wear  a  dress  longer  than  they  otherwise  would,  saves  them,  in 
the  end,  considerable  outlay. 

We  have  heard  ladies  say  that  nothing  has  provoked  them 
more  than  the  way  in  which  their  maids  can  make  up  for 
themselves  dresses  which  they  have  laid  aside.  They  can,  by 
dint  of  sponging  and  washing,  and  pressing,  and  ironing  by 
turning,  and  many  other  ways  known  to  them,  make  their 
ladies'  cast  off  clothes  look  as  good  as  new,  and  many  a  lady 
has,  before  now,  looked  with  envy  upon  an  old  dress  which 
reappears  in  a  new  character,  looking  quite  as  fresh  and  at- 
tractive as  ever,  under  the  magic  hand  of  a  clever  and  prac- 
tical needle- woman. 

We  maintain  then,  that,  though  the  present  style  of  dress 
may  be  expensive  on  account  of  the  enormous  quantity  of 
material  which  is  required,  there  is  no  real  reason  why  it 
should  be  so  costly  as  it  is  supposed  to  be.  If  ladies  will  give 
some  attention  to  the  make  or  cut  and  style  of  their  dresses, 
the  most  simple  materials  will  look  exceedingly  effective.  It 
only  requires  judgment,  good  taste,  and  some  forethought  and 
contrivance. 

We  recommend  as  of  primary  importance,  in  order  to  be 
well  and  economically  dressed,  that  people  of  slender  means 
should  have  their  dresses  made  at  home,  and  should  secure 
the  services  of  a  clever  needle-woman  who  knows  how  to  cut 
out  and  make,  and  has  learned  the  mysteries  of  the  art  of 
dressmaking.  With  her  assistance  there  is  no  reason  why  a 
home-made  dress  should  not  bear  comparison  with  those  of 
Madame  Descon  of  London,  or  of  Mr.  Wirth  of  Paris.  It  m 
in  the  style,  that  first-class  dressmakers  excel.  It  is  not  in 
the  actual  needlework,  which  is  often  a  very  inferior  affair. 
If,  with  the  help  of  "  Le  Follet,"  ladies  will  give  some  atten- 
tion to  the  subject  of  dress,  and  will  assist  their  maids  with 
suggestions  and  approval,  they  will  find  themselves  amply  re- 
paid, not  only  by  their  own  personal  appearance,  but  also  by 
the  small  outlay  of  money. 


17$  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL, 

V.  — ACCESSORIES. 

THERE  are  an  infinite  variety  of  things  which  are  necessary  in 
order  to  make  a  woman  thoroughly  well  dressed,  which  do 
not  come  under  the  category  of  dresses.  Some  of  these  must 
be  discussed,  as  they  are  of  great  importance. 

To  begin  with  bonnets.  How  much  of  a  lady's  toilette  de- 
pends upon  her  bonnet ! — upon  its  make,  its  shape,  its  style, 
and  the  materials  it  is  made  of ! 

In  these  days,  bonnets  are  much  less  ugly  than  they  for- 
merly were.  They  are  not  set  at  the  back  of  the  head  as 
they  used  to  be,  when  they  made  every  woman  look  as  if  her 
neck  had  been  broken.  They  offered  no  advantage.  They  did 
not  screen  the  face  from  sun  and  wind,  and  no  ladies  could 
keep  them  on  their  heads  without  the  help  of  long  pins  like 
skewers.  The  bonnet,  as  now  worn,  scarcely  deserves  the  name 
of  a  bonnet.  It  is  more  like  a  cap  than  a  bonnet;  but,  such 
as  it  is,  it  is  exceedingly  becoming  to  the  young— more 
especially  the  style  which  has  most  recently  come  into  fashion, 
in  which,  while  it  ties  behind,  below  the  chignon  or  large  plait 
of  hair,  long  ends  of  tulle,  or  lace,  or  blonde  fall  round  the 
cheek,  and  fasten  under  the  chin  with  a  brooch  or  a  flower. 
The  effect  of  the  lace  against  the  face  is  very  preferable  to 
that  of  the  fold  of  hard  ribbon  which  was  generally  worn,  and 
which  was  utte»ly  devoid  of  all  grace.  Besides  which,  we 
have  heard  ladies  praise  the  last  fashion  as  being  the  most 
comfortable,  because  the  absence  of  strings  fastened  under  the 
chin  enables  them  to  eat,  and  sing,  and  talk  without  the 
necessity  of  taking  off  the  bonnet,  or  of  untying  it.  The  ex- 
treme lightness  of  the  modern  bonnet  is  in  itself  a  great  recom- 
mendation. But  if  a  bonnet  is  intended  as  a  protection  to  the 
head  from  sun,  wind,  and  rain,  then,  indeed,  it  must  be 
allowed  that  the  present  fashion  does  not  fulfil  any  of  those 
intentions.  A  small  saucer  of  tulle,  or  three-cornered  bit  of 
lace  ornamented  with  a  few  flowers,  which  fits  on  the  head  in 
the  small  space  that  intervenes  between  the  front  hair  and  the 
beginning  of  the  chignon,  where  it  stops  in  order  that  the  huge 
mass  of  hair  now  worn  at  the  bark  of  the  head  may  be  fully 
exhibited,  does  not  do  more  than  make  a  very  pretty  toilette. 
Useful  and  serviceable  as  a  protection,  it  is  not.  But  when  it 
is  contrasted  with  bonnets  which  were  worn  a  few  years  ago, 
or  with  those  which  our  mothers  and  grandmothers  wore,  we 
confess  that  we  are  glad  of  the  change. 

No  lady  ought  to  be  indifferent  about  her  bonnet.  It  is  to 
her  face  what  the  setting  is  to  a  jewel.  The  arrangement  of 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  179 

the  lace  or  blonde  ;  the  way  it  accords  with  the  countenance; 
the  harmony  of  colour  with  the  rest  of  the  dress,  which  in 
some  instances  it  tones  down  by  its  quietness,  and  in  others 
brightens  and  freshens  by  its  contrast ;  all  these  are  points  to 
be  considered.  It  is  impossible  not  to  be  guided  by  fashion, 
in  the  selection  of  a  bonnet,  and  the  same  fashion  will  pre- 
scribe how  it  is  to  be  trimmed,  but,  as  a  rule,  we  protest  against 
beads  and  tinsel  of  all  kinds.  If  beads  must  be  used,  they 
should  be  used  sparingly.  We  saw  a  bonnet  this  year  which 
was  nothing  but  black  beads,  which  were  designated  by  the 
high-sounding  name  of  "  black  pearls."  The  bonnet  was 
heavy,  and  very  ugly  ;  and  when  we  remonstrated  against  it, 
we  were  assured  it  had  just  arrived  from  Paris — as  if  the  an- 
nouncement of  such  a  fact  was,  in  itself,  enough  to  silence  all 
objections.  But  it  had  no  effect  upon  us,  for  the  bonnet  was 
objectionable  on  every  ground — on  account  of  its  weight  and 
appearance. 

In  London,  as  it  is  necessary  to  have  a  succession  of  bon- 
nets, which  soon  become  discoloured  and  spoilt  by  the  soot 
and  dirt  of  our  great  metropolis,  all  that  really  signifies  is 
that  they  should  look  fresh  and  clean,  and  in  harmony  with 
the  dresses  with  which  they  are  worn ;  and  therefore  it  is  im- 
portant they  should  be  cheap.  To  give  three  guineas  and  even 
moe,  and  perhaps  five,  for  a  bonnet  which  will  last  for  only 
one  month  is  an  expensive  proceeding ;  and  when  it  is  con- 
sidered that  really  pretty  bonnets  can  be  bought  for  eighteen 
shillings,  which  look  quite  as  well  as  those  which  are  more 
costly,  they  are  without  excuse  who  do  not  manage  to  have 
always  one  nice-looking  bonnet  for  special  occasions. 

We  have  known  some  ladies  who  are  clever  and  wise 
enough  to  make  their  own  bonnets,  and  then  the  cost  of  them 
is  about  five  or  six  shillings  each.  If  the  lady's  maid  is  clever 
and  handy,  and  knows  how  to  make  them,  she  will  probably 
make  them  quite  as  well  as  any  professed  milliners.  All  that 
is  required  is  to  understand  what  fits  and  suits  the  person  for 
whom  the  bonnet  is  intended.  Every  one  finds  that  one 
shape  suits  her  better  than  another.  The  next  point  in  making 
a  bonnet  is  that  the  "artiste"  should  have  a  light  hand, 
and  should  make  it  "off-hand,"  without  letting  it  lie  about 
to  get  soiled  or  tumbled.  Things  which  are  not  expensive, 
but  are  made  of  common  materials,  should  look  fresh.  If 
they  have  that  merit,  no  one .  will  examine  them  very  closely 
to  see  whether  the  lace  is  real,  or  the  flowers  of  the  first 
quality.  Satisfied  with  the  general  effect  and  style,  no  in- 
quiries will  be  instituted  into  the  cost  of  the  materials.  Peo> 

12—2 


ifeo  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL. 

pie  are  not  so  particular  where  their  eye  is  pleased.  On  thfc 
contrary,  where  the  effect  is  good,  cheapness  increases  its 
value  in  the  estimation  of  those  who  know  that  one  and  one 
make  two. 

No  one  can  make  bonnets,  or  indeed  any  kind  of  head-gear, 
\rithout  one  of  those  hideous  figure-heads  called  "blocks," 
upon  which  the  bonnet  or  the  cap  is  made,  without  risk  of 
injury.  This  is  the  only  way  in  which  the  milliner  can  form 
any  idea  of  the  effect  of  her  handiwork.  She  can  turn  it 
about  to  get  the  full,  side,  and  back  view  of  her  performance, 
without  touching  the  article  in  question,  which,  if  it  is  mauled 
about  ever  so  little,  soon  loses  its  freshness. 

As  we  have  long  ago  discarded  the  picturesque  from  bon- 
nets, and  the  famous  "  chapeau  de  paille "  has  been  laid 
aside,  there  is  an  advantage  in  the  fact  that  the  present  style 
is  unobtrusive ;  and  strong-minded  women  who  cling  tena- 
ciously to  their  beloved  old  coal-scuttle  shape,  and  deride  the 
present  fashion,  indignantly  exclaiming  against  it,  ' '  Call  that 
thing  a  bonnet,  indeed  ?"  certainly  tempts  us  to  reply  to  their 
prejudiced  and  absurd  reflections,  "  Physician,  heal  thyself;" 
for  if  there  is  one  thing  more  ugly  than  another,  it  is  the  old- 
fashioned  bonnet  with  crown,  curtain,  and  poke,  to  which  a 
few  old  maids  rigidly  adhere — just  as  Quakeresses  do  to  their 
hideous  and  antiquated  style.  There  is  a  kind  of  self- righ- 
teousness in  the  protests  of  these  ladies,  with  which  we  con- 
fess that  we  have  no  sympathy.  We  do  not  mean  to  recom- 
mend them  to  adopt  the  bonnet  of  a  girl  of  eighteen,  but  we 
do  advise  them  to  conform  to  the  fashion  of  the  day,  and  wear 
a  modified  edition  of  the  present  and  prevailing  costume. 

It  is  remarkable  how  straw  always  retains  its  hold  as  a 
material  for  bonnets.  A  straw  bonnet,  is,  however,  a  more 
expensive  article  than  one  of  tulle ;  but  then  it  is  more  endur- 
ing, and  better  suited  for  country  wear.  There  is  also  another 
advantage  in  straw  :  it  never  looks  vulgar.  A  country  lass  in 
a  bonnet  of  silk,  or  lace,  or  tulle,  does  not  look  one-half  as 
•well  as  one  in  a  straw  bonnet,  neatly  trimmed.  Straw  is  be- 
coming to  persons  of  all  ages  and  of  every  station.  It  makes 
a  vulgar  woman  look  less  vulgar,  and  the  lady  more  refined. 
Though  common,  it  is  never  so  in  an  offensive  sense. 

Caps  have  become  an  important  item,  from  the  fact  that 
Women  of  all  ages  wear  something  of  the  kind.  The  young 
girl  who  has  passed  from  girlhood  into  matrimony,  considers 
it  necessary  that  some  of  those  little  caps  made  of  lace  and 
ribbons  and  which  have  such  a  coquettish  look  about  them, 
should  form  part  of  her  trousseau.  She  is  as  glad  to  exercis? 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  iSl 

her  new  privilege  of  wearing  a  cap  as  an  undergraduate  is  of 
wearing  his  cap  and  gown.  It  is  a  sign  that  she  has  passed 
to  what  she  considers  the  higher  state,  although  she  knows 
that  there  are  many  high  authorities  for  the  contrary ;  but  she 
remembers  that  "doctors  differ,"  and  she  hails  her  privilege 
as  one  to  which  she  has  been  always  taught  to  look  forward. 

What  can  be  more  becoming  than  some  of  those  jaunty 
caps  which  seem  to  mock  at  age  ?  Here,  again,  we  have  a 
manifest  improvement  in  the  head-gear  of  ancient  times. 

Think  of  the  turbans,  the  gigantic  hats  and  caps  of  blonde 
which  were  made  to  stand  erect  by  means  of  wire,  and  which 
surrounded  the  face  like  fans  at  full  stretch,  or  (more  gracious 
simile)  like  the  nimbus  round  the  head  of  a  mediaeval  saint. 

Contrast  these  with  the  little  caps  which  ornament  the  head 
with  lace,  as  only  lace  can  ornament  it,  and  you  will  see  at  once 
how  superior  the  present  fashion  is.  It  is  not  only  that  these 
pretty  and  mysterious  fabrics  of  lace  and  ribbon  are  an  orna- 
ment to  the  loveliest  and  most  youthful ;  but  they  have  worked 
a  revolution  in  the  caps  of  elderly  ladies.  Instead  of  the  cap 
with  its  frill  of  blonde  intermixed  with  narrow  ribbon  or  small 
flowers,  fitting  close  to  the  face  like  a  fringe  and  tying  under 
the  chin,  we  see  small  and  becoming  head  dresses  of  lace, 
which  sufficiently  furnish  the  cheeks  and  cover  the  hair. 
Where  it  can  be  done,  the  cap  of  the  most  elderly  woman 
should  appear  to  dress  and  furnish  her  head  rather  than  her 
face,  though,  if  need  be,  it  can  be  made  to  soften  the  asperi- 
ties of  age  where  they  have  marked  the  countenance. 

Mantles  or  cloaks  are  a  difficult  question. 

When  everybody  of  every  station  wears  a  cloak  or  mantle 
we  are  disposed  to  recommend  shawls,  especially  as  a  really 
good  Indian  shawl  cannot  be  imitated,  and  denotes  the  quality 
and  condition  of  the  wearer.  Every  servant  girl,  every  maid 
of  all  work,  has  her  Sunday  cloak.  None  but  the  rich  can 
sport  an  Indian  shawl.  It  requires  falling  shoulders  and  a  tall 
and  graceful  figure.  It  should  not  be  fastened  round  the  throat 
as  if  the  wearer  suffered  from  a  severe  cold  in  her  throat ,  but 
it  should  have  the  appearance  of  being  loosely  put  on  ;  neither 
fastened  tightly  on,  nor  falling  off.  Square  shawls  are  always 
more  ugly  than  not.  If  the  wearer  has  not  a  very  erect  car- 
riage, and  if  her  shoulders  are  not  well  thrown  back,  thechances 
are  that  the  effect  of  a  square  shawl  will  be  anything  but  pleas- 
ing. If  the  lady  stoops,  or  is  at  all  round-shouldered,  the 
shawl  will  have  the  effect  of  a  window  that  has  been  cracked 
by  a  stone — it  will  look  starred — it  will  not  be  smooth  and  even, 
but  will  present  the  appCarance  of  lines  radiating  from  thede- 


1 82  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL. 

fective  shoulders.  For  grace  there  is  nothing  like  a  scarf 
shawl,  but  only  a  few  can,  or  know  how  to,  wear  it. 

Under  these  circumstances  a  cloak  or  a  mantle  are  safer. 
There  is  an  infinite  variety  to  choose  from,  but  as  the  names 
and  the  fashion  vary  year  by  year  it  is  useless  to  specify  any. 
For  the  same  reason,  this  constant;  change,  it  is  best  not  to  in- 
vest much  capital  in  the  purchase  of  one.  Young  people  can 
wear  smaller  and  shorter  mantles  than  their  elders,  who  require 
something  larger  and  more  imposing. 

In  winter  there  is  nothing  to  compare  to  a  seal  skin  ;  so 
much  so  that  even  an  imitation  is  not  to  be  despised.  Velvets 
are  ladylike,  but  they  are  expensive,  and  have  not  the  dura- 
bility of  a  seal  skin.  Velveteen  cloaks  are  good  and  reason- 
able. Blue  cloth  or  serge,  braided  with  black,  look  well,  and 
have  been  in  favour  for  some  time.  We  have  seen  a  grey 
cloth  cloak  braided  with  black  which  has  been  much  admired  ; 
also  one  of  dark  green  cloth  lined  with  grey,  and,  vice  versa, 
of  grey  lined  with  green.  For  winter,  the  effect  of  lining  a 
cloth  cloak  with  another  colour  in  good  contrast  is  decidedly 
good.  But  every -thing  depends  upon  the  shape  and  cut  of  the 
cloak.  It  is  the  shape  that  tells  far  more  than  the  material. 

In  France  we  find  gloves  and  shoes  have  a  prominent  place 
among  the  accessories  of  a  lady's  toilette.  To  be  "  bieu 
chaussee  et  bien  gantee "  is  essential  to  being  well  dressed. 
Good,  well  fitting  gloves  and  shoes  tell  more  than  most  other 
things  among  the  French.  At  least  a  somewhat  shabby  and 
unpretending  gown  and  bonnet,  if  accompanied  by  gloves  that 
are  of  a  good  quality  and  colour  and  that  fit  well,  and  by 
shoes  or  boots  that  also  fit  well,  and  are  of  good  style  and  make, 
will  pass  muster  anywhere,  while  the  reverse  will  fail. 

It  is  remarkable  that  there  is  nothing  which  distinguishes  a 
foreigner  from  an  Englishwoman  more  than  her  gloves.  They 
"fit  like  a  glove  ; "  they  are  of  a  good  colour,  according  well 
with  the  rest  of  the  costume,  neither  too  light  nor  too  dark, 
but  rather  light  than  dark.  There  are  no  ends  or  corners  of 
the  fingers  which  are  not  well  filled  ;  there  are  no  creases  in- 
dicative of  the  gloves  being  of  a  wrong  size,  nor  are  they  put 
on  crooked  with  a  twist  given  to  the  fingers,  so  that  the  seams 
of  the  glove  do  not  appear  straight.  In  short,  a  French- 
woman does  not  put  on  her  glove  anyhow  as  an  English- 
woman does.  To  her  it  is  a  matter  of  great  importance  ;  to 
our  country-woman  it  is  a  matter  of  indifference.  We  think 
the  Frenchwoman  right,  because  it  is  by  what  are  called  trifles 
that  good  and  also  great  effects  are  produced. 

\Ve  come  now  to  an  accessory  of  considerable  importance 


rfOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  183 

—the  hair.  As  a  great  amount  of  time  is  expended  upon 
hair-dressing,  and  as  no  one  ever  thinks  of  wearing  it  in  its 
natural  state,  and  as  nothing  is  more  under  the  influence  of 
fashion  than  the  hair,  it  has  become  by  consent  of  all  an  ac- 
cessory of  great  importance.  Will  any  one  affirm  that  it  is  a 
matter  of  indifference  how  the  hair  is  dressed  ?  Whether  in 
plaits  or  bows  ?  Whether  in  a  crop,  or  twisted  up  in  a  coil  ? 
There  is  nothing  which  affects  a  lady's  personal  appearance 
more  than  the  style  in  which  she  dresses  her  hair.  We  con- 
fess that  we  have  a  strong  prejudice  against  a  too  submissive 
following  of  the  fashion.  Because  in  the  first  place  we  deny 
that  fashion  is  always  in  the  right,  and  in  the  second  it  rarely 
happens  that  the  same  style  exactly  suits  two  persons  alike. 
Nothing  requires  more  consideration  than  the  hair.  It  is 
one  of  a  woman's  greatest  ornaments.  We  have  high  autho- 
rity for  saying  this.  Hair  should  always  have  the  appearance 
of  being  well  cared  for.  It  should  set  off  the  shape  of  the 
head  if  it  is  good,  and  not  aggravate  any  of  its  defects.  A 
small  head,  well  set  on,  is  a  great  beauty.  It  tends  more  than 
anything  else  to  that  distinguished  look  which  enhances  all 
other  beauty.  Beauty,  if  accompanied  by  a  look  of  refine- 
ment, is  worth  more  than  mere  animal  beauty,  and  nothing 
is  more  indicative  of  refinement  and  noble  birth  as  a  well- 
shaped  head.  It  is  the  head  which  gives  the  impression  of 
intellectual  power.  The  well  formed  brow  should  not  be  de- 
moralized by  ringlets,  which  are  suggestive  only  of  a  wax  doll, 
nor  should  it  be  disfigured  by  being  surmounted  by  a  kind  of 
cushion  or  roll  of  hair  which  gives  the  idea  of  weight  and  size. 
Nor  should  the  hair  have  the  appearance  of  a  bird's  nest,  and 
look  tumbled  and  untidy.  This  was  lately  the  "  beau  ideal" 
of  a  well  dressed  head.  It  was  desired  that  it  should  appear 
unkempt  and  uncombed,  as  if  it  had  been  drawn  through  a 
quickset  hedge.  The  back  of  the  head,  if  well  shaped,  has  a 
beautiful  appearance,  reminding  one  of  a  stag,  which  is  so 
graceful  in  look  and  motion.  But  when  it  is  disfigured  by  a 
large  mass  of  hair,  resembling  a  large  pin-cushion,  all  that 
peculiar  native  grace  which  we  so  much  admire  is  lost  sight 
of.  When  all  heads  are  made  to  look  alike  and  equally 
large,  there  is  no  advantage  in  having  a  small  and  well  shaped 
head.  It  seems  as  if  the  study  of  the  present  day  were  to 
make  the  head  look  large,  and  to  conceal  all  its  points.  We 
miss  the  smooth  braids  of  hair  which  set  off  the  expanse  of 
forehead,  and  the  coils  of  plaits  of  hair,  which  ornamented, 
but  did  not  conceal  the  back  of  the  head.  We  miss  the  glossy 
look  of  the  hair  which  indicated  care,  and  prefer  it  infinitely 


184  HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL. 

to  that  which  simulates  neglect.  It  is  perfectly  true  that  one 
style  does  not  suit  all  persons  alike,  any  more  than  that  tha 
powder  which  was  worn  by  our  great-grandmothers  wa» 
equally  becoming  to  all.  A  low  forehead,  if  the  points  of  the 
brow  are  good,  should  have  the  hair  drawn  off  it,  whereas  a 
high  forehead  which  does  not  betoken  any  great  intellectual 
power  is  disfigured  by  the  same  process.  Smooth  braids  wul 
not  become  a  long  face,  nor  puffs  a  broad  one.  A  forehead 
which  is  already  too  high  cannot  bear  to  be  heightened  by 
coronets  and  cushions  of  hair,  nor  a  countenance  which  indi- 
cates weakness  to  be  made  weaker  still  by  limp  luxurious 
curls.  A  stem  face  requires  to  be  softened,  while  a  weak  one 
requires  stiength.  The  hair  can  generally  do  this.  It  de- 
pends upon  how  it  is  dressed. 

They  who  are  no  longer  young  endeavour  to  impose  upon 
the  world  by  the  use  of  wigs  and  fronl5.  These  are  an  abo- 
mination, and  in  every  instance  they  are  easy  of  detection. 
There  is  something  in  the  way  in  which  false  hair  protests 
against  the  face  and  the  face  against  it,  which  infallibly  ex- 
poses it  to  be  false.  A  lady  with  all  the  signs  of  years  about 
her  face  makes  her  age  the  more  apparent  by  the  contrast  of 
glossy  dark  hair  which  belongs  to  youth.  Why  is  she  afraid 
to  wear  her  own  grey  hair  ?  Grey  hairs  are  no  reproof,  and 
we  are  quite  sure  they  would  harmonize  belter  with  the  other 
marks  of  age  than  the  wigs  and  fronts  which  prevail.  There 
is  something  in  the  white  hair  of  age  which  has  a  charm  of  its 
own.  It  is  like  the  soft  and  mellow  light  of  sunset.  But  un- 
fortunately an  old  woman  is  not  always  inclined  to  accept  the 
fact  that  she  is  old.  She  would  rebel  against  it,  but  rebellion 
is  useless.  The  fact  remains  the  same.  She  is  old  notwith- 
standing her  "  rouge"  pot  and  her  front,  and  she  is  growing 
older  day  by  day. 

Jewellery  is  another  accessory.  Jewels,  real  jewels,  are  in 
the  possession  of  only  a  few.  They  are  so  costly  that  only 
millionaires  or  the  heirs  of  heirlooms  can  have  them.  They 
are  very  beautiful,  and  have  this  one  merit,  that  a  few  jewels, 
judiciously  selected  and  worn,  make  a  person  well  dressed 
at  once,  A  diamond  necklace  and  brooch,  diamond  earrings, 
and  a  few  diamond  stars  glittering  in  the  hair,  will  make 
almost  a  shabby  dress  pass  muster  at  Court.  But  jewellery  is  a 
term  that  is  applied  to  ornaments  generally,  and  not  to  jewels 
only. 

Sham  jewellery  is  an  abomination.  It  is  a  lie,  and  a  pre- 
tension. At  no  time  was  so  much  sham  jewellery  made  and 
worn.  Every  damsel  has  her  brooches  and  her  earrings.  In 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  18$ 

nine  cases  out  of  ten  they  are  mere  trumpery,  but,  such 
as  they  are,  no  maid  of  all  work  will  go  out  for  her  Sun- 
day  walk  without  her  brooch  and  earrings  and  chain.  She 
must  have  her  locket  too,  fastened  round  her  throat  with 
black  velvet,  but  it  is  all,  with  the  exception  of  the  velvet,  a 
sham. 

Ladies  too  have  a  weakness  for  sham  jewellery.  They  will 
wear  massive  bracelets,  cameo  brooches  of  target  dimensions, 
earrings,  chains,  all  of  what  they  pleasantly  call  French 
manufacture.  It  is  called  French  in  the  shops  in  order  to 
soften  down  its  imposture,  and  to  play  upon  the  weakness  of 
our  country  women  who  are  apt  to  think  that  whatever  is 
French  must  be  good.  But  in  many  cases  they  are  of  Bir- 
mingham manufacture. 

We  enter  our  protest  very  strongly  against  the  use  of  sham 
jewellery,  though  we  must  own  without  much  hope  of  success, 
for,  it  must  be  admitted,  that  a  great  quantity  of  it  is  exceed- 
ingly pretty.  We  are  not  surprised  that  it  should  be  popular, 
for  who  can  resist  the  opportunity  of  making  herself  fine  and. 
"beautiful  for  ever"  at  the  cost  of  a  few  shillings,  which  is 
all  that  is  necessary  to  lay  in  a  fair  stock  of  jewellery. 

This  sham  jewellery  is  continually  mistaken  for  real,  so  good 
is  the  resemblance. 

If  a  duchess  were  to  wear  it  everyone  would  take  for 
granted  that  it  was  real,  because  she  would  not  be  supposed 
to  wear  anything  that  is  unreal.  We  have  heard  of  a  lady 
who,  possessing  but  very  few  jewels,  always  makes  up  for  the 
deficiency  by  wearing  sham  diamonds.  They  are  good  of 
their  kind,  and  no  one  ever  suspects  them  to  be  false,  simply 
because  there  is  no  reason  why  she  should  not  have  real  dia- 
monds, but,  on  the  contrary,  so  far  as  the  world  knows,  every 
reason  why  she  should. 

In  the  use  of  jewellery  more  than  in  anything  else  we  main- 
tain that  all  persons  should  dress  according  to  their  station 
and  their  means.  If  they  can  afford  it — let  them — but  we  re- 
commend them  not  to  act  too  much  upon  the  old  saying,  that 
"  fine  feathers  make  fine  birds,"  but  to  bear  in  mind  that  being 
well  dressed  means  something  more  than  well-fitting,  well- 
selected  clothes. 


i86  HOW  TO  DRESb   WELL, 


VI. — "A  FEW  WORDS  MORE." 

It  is  very  difficult,  we  might  say  impossible,  to  give  any 
definite  rules  about  dress.  Fashions  change  so  continually, 
that  if  we  were  to  write  a  dissertation  upon  peplums,  and 
trains,  and  gores,  or  give  directions  how  to  cut  them  out  or 
make  them,  almost  by  the  time  this  manual  should  come  into 
circulation,  they  would  have  become  portions  of  the  past,  and 
our  hints  would  seem  absurd  and  out  of  place.  All  that  has 
seemed  feasible  to  us  we  have  done,  which  has  been  to  give 
certain  hints  that  the  rocks  upon  which  so  many  split,  who 
make  great  endeavours  to  be  well  dressed,  might  be  avoided 
by  our  readers. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  every  one  wishes  to  dress  well, 
whatever  her  means  may  be ;  and  that  no  one  thinks  she 
dresses  ill,  whatever  the  world  may  think  of  her  performance. 
We  look  at  ourselves  through  coloured  glass,  and  are  apt  to 
take  the  most  favourable  view  of  our  own  peculiarities — 

"  O,  wad  some  power  the  giftie  gie  us, 
To  see  ourselves  as  others  see  us." 

There  are  rules  in  dress,  as  there  are  in  painting,  which,  if 
observed,  will  prevent  our  making  "frights"  of  ourselves. 
Anyone  who  starts  for  herself  on  a  new  line,  and,  throwing 
to  the  wind  the  received  laws,  adopts  and  carries  out  some 
crude  theory  of  her  own,  however  much  she  may  entertain 
herself  by  her  experiments,  runs  a  great  chance  of  making  a 
figure  of  herself,  and  will  infallibly  obtain  a  reputation  for 
conceit  and  affectation.  No  woman,  unless  she  is  a  star  of 
great  magnitude,  or  a  belle  of  note,  can  with  impunity  set  at 
nought  the  received  customs.  She  is  by  no  means  bound  to 
follow  fashion  so  implicitly  and  subserviently  as  to  mar  her 
own  beauty.  But  a  clever  woman  will  always  be  able  to 
avoid  affronting  fashion  while  she  takes  a  line  of  her  own. 
We  use  this  phrase  with  a  certain  limitation,  because  if  a 
woman  were  to  take  a  line  of  her  own  unrestricted  by  certain 
"convenances"  of  society  and  of  fashion,  she  would  certainly 
fall  into  the  very  error  which  we  should  be  the  first  to  declaim 
against,  namely — the  error  of  eccentricity.  A  due  regard  for 
these  "convenances"  will  ensure  that  sense  of  propriety  in 
dress  which  will  make  everyone  remember  both  her  station 
and  her  means.  The  fine  lady  will  not  affect  the  simplicity 
pf  the  village  girl,  nor  the  village  girl  aspire  to  be  mistaken 


HOW  TO  DRESS  WELL.  187 

for  the  fine  lady.  Both  will  maintain  their  own  positions,  and 
will  be  respected  while  they  maintain  them. 

Let  it  also  be  borne  in  mind  that  a  bonnet  or  cap,  mantle  or 
gown,  may  be  very  pretty  in  itself  and  very  becoming  to  some 
persons,  but  not  necessarily  to  everyone  ;  generally  to  only  a 
few.  The  young  and  the  old  have  each  their  privileges.  The 
one  must  not  dress  like  the  other.  Though  we  have  seen 
some  who  have  been  foolish  enough  to  forget  the  years  that 
have  passed,  and  cannot  realise  the  fact  that  they  are  no  longer 
young,  and  vie  with  the  youngest  in  the  youthfulness  of  their 
attire,  we  do  not,  we  admit,  often  find  the  young  endeavour- 
ing to  make  themselves  look  older  than  they  are.  One  who 
has  thought  much  and  written  well  on  this  subject  says, 
"  Doubtless  if  there  were  any  way  of  making  old  people 
young,  either  in  looks  or  anything  else,  it  would  be  a  delight- 
ful invention  ;  but  meanwhile  juvenile  dressing  is  the  last 
road  we  should  recommend  them  to  take." 

In  conclusion,  let  every  woman  bear  in  mind  that  dress 
denotes  character,  that  there  is  a  symbolism  in  dress  which 
they  who  have  studied  the  trotter  can  read  without  difficulty. 


io 


THE    DINNER-TABLE. 

So  long  as  the  taste  for  dinners  <3  la  Russe  shall  continue,  it 
does  not  seem  absolutely  necessary  for  lady  or  gentleman  to 
take  the  trouble  to  learn  to  carve.  But  the  idle  and  wasteful 
fashion  of  employing  servants  to  cut  up  your  food  after  their  own 
fancy,  and  of  sitting  round  a  board  bereft  of  all  appearance  of 
dinner  except  the  salt-cellars  and  glasses,  to  watch  flowers 
and  fresh  fruit  decay  and  droop  in  the  midst  of  the  various 
smells  of  the  hot  meats,  while  waiting  to  receive  such  portions 
as  your  attendant  chooses  to  bestow  on  you,  is  so  opposed  to 
the  social,  hospitable,  and  active  habits  of  an  English  gentle- 
man that  it  must  soon  pass  away,  and  the  tempting  spread  on 
the  generous  board,  pleasant  to  the  eye  as  well  as  to  the  taste, 
resume  its  place. 

Dexterity,  grace,  and  tact  in  carving  and  distributing  the 
delicate  morsels  of  the  dish,  have  been  many  a  man's  passport 
into  popularity.  Nor  is  this  accomplishment  unworthy  of 
cultivation  in  the  elegant  woman  ;  affording  a  pretext,  too, 
for  that  assistance  of  some  favoured  neighbour  which  men  love 
to  offer  to  the  fair. 

The  number  of  guests  to  be  invited  to  constitute  an  agree- 
able dinner  is  no  longer  restricted  to  the  old  rule  of  never  less 
than  the  number  of  the  Graces,  nor  more  than  that  of  the 
Muses.  Large  tables,  well-trained  servants,  dinners  a  la  J?itsse, 
and  a  greater  facility  in  furnishing  the  viands  for  the  table 
than  formerly  existed,  have  enabled  families  to  extend  the 
number  received,  and  dinners  of  from  twelve  to  twenty  are 
common,  and  more  convenient  than  several  small  dinners. 

The  invitations  should  be  sent  out,  if  possible,  a  fortnight 
previous  to  the  dinner,  to  avoid  disappointment ;  and  etiquette 


HOW  TO  CARVE,  189 

commands  the  reply  to  be  immediate,  to  allow  the  host  to  fill 
up  his  table  in  case  of  refusals.  The  size  of  the  table  must 
always  be  a  first  consideration,  for  all  enjoyment  of  the  good 
things  spread  before  them  will  be  marred  if  people  be 
crowded  ;  and  on  the  contrary,  the  table  must  not  be  too 
large  for  the  party  :  nothing  can  be  more  gloomy  than  a  scat- 
tered company  or  an  empty  chair.  From  2^  to  3  feet  is  a  fair 
calculation  for  each  person,  especially  since  the  dimensions  of 
crinolines  is  lessened;  but  no  more  should  be  allowed. 

There  is  another  grand  point  to  remember  in  issuing  invita- 
tions— the  important  social  arrangement  of  the  guests.  No 
man  of  good  sense  would  invite  the  CAPULETS  to  meet  the 
MONTAGUES, — a  blunder  which  inevitably  checks  many 
topics  of  conversation,  throwing  a  damp  on  all  attempts  to 
promote  universal  enjoyment. 

Be  careful  at  any  rate  to  assemble,  as  far  as  your  conveni- 
ence and  judgment  permit,  the  elements  of  harmony,  and 
you  have  fulfilled  your  duty.  It  is  desirable  not  to  have 
many  great  talkers,  but  if  you  invariably  must  have  some, 
then  match  them  with  good  listeners. 

In  laying  the  cloth,  care  should  be  taken,  not  only  that 
the  table  should  occupy  the  centre  of  the  room,  but  that  the 
cloth  should  be  spread  to  leave  the  pattern  in  the  centre  of 
the  table,  with  the  design  proceeding  from  the  head,  and  as 
the  cloth  is  now  almost  universally  left  on  the  table  for  the 
dessert,  lay-overs  or  slips  are  placed  round,  broad  enough  to 
reach  two  or  three  inches  beyond  the  plate,  to  be  carefully 
removed  in  folds  when  the  crumb-brush  has  been  used  after 
the  dinner  is  removed. 

The  table  being  spread,  and  the  dinner  announced  by  the 
butler  or  principal  waiting  servant,  the  lady  of  the  house 
must  quietly  indicate  the  arrangement  of  her  guests  according 
to  rank,  age,  or  any  local  or  occasional  distinction,  the  master 
of  the  house  leading  out  the  first  lady,  and  the  mistress  fol- 
lowing last  with  the  most  distinguished  gentleman,  who, 
seated  at  her  right  hand,  is  her  assistant  in  the  duties  of  the 
table. 

The  soup  and  fish  are  usually  placed  on  the  table  together, 
and  the  covers  removed  at  once ;  the  soup  to  the  lady,  the 
fish  before  the  master ;  or  if  two  soups,  and  one  should  be 
turtle,  that  must  be  at  the  head.  Soup  is  sent  round  without 
inquiry  to  everybody,  to  be  accepted  or  rejected  at  pleasure. 
Sauterne,  sherry,  or  Madeira  may  be  offered  after  the  soup. 
After  turtle  soup,  punch  is  the  correct  liquor.  The  fish  is 
carved  and  seryed  round  in  the  same  way  as  the  soup,  if  only 


t9<>  flOW  TO  CARVE. 

one  kind  of  fish  be  served ;  if  more,  the  choice  mtul  be  left 
to  the  guest. 

After  the  soup  and  fish  are  served,  the  Removes,  as  they 
are  generally  termed,  that  is,  the  pieces  de  resistance,  the 
stronghold  of  the  dinner,  are  brought  in  ;  but  before  they 
are  carved,  two  or  more  entrees  are  usually  handed  round, 
and  if  champagne  be  introduced,  this  is  the  time  for  it  to  be 
offered. 

In  carving  the  removes,  a  servant  must  be  at  the  side  of 
the  carver  with  the  plate,  which  he  must  as  quickly  as  pos- 
sible pass  to  the  guest  for  whom  it  is  required,  another  ser- 
vant following  with  the  vegetables  or  sauces.  If  only  one 
servant  be  employed,  the  vegetables  should  be  on  the  table, 
that  the  guests  may  help  themselves,  for  nothing  can  be  more 
vexatious  than  to  have  to  wait  for  them  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  after  you  have  been  served  with  the  meat.  The  same 
may  be  said  of  the  sauces,  so  often,  at  a  scantily-attended 
table,  withheld  until  you  no  longer  care  for  them.  Such 
wines  as  the  master  of  the  house  chooses  to  bestow  must  be 
offered  when  needed.  Water  caraffes  will  be  within  the 
reach  of  all,  and  beer,  if  called  for,  must  be  served. 

In  the  matter  of  carving,  it  should  be  held  in  mind  that 
the  flavour  and  the  digestibility  of  the  meat  depends  greatly 
on  the  careful  mode  of  cutting  it:  A  delicate  stomach  may 
be  disgusted  with  a  thick  coarse  slice,  an  undue  proportion  of 
fat,  a  piece  of  skin  or  gristle  ;  and  therefore  the  carver  must 
have  judgment  as  well  as  dexterity,  must  inquire  the  taste  of 
each  guest,  and  minister  discreetly  to  it.  This  delicate  dutj 
is  more  fully  set  forth  in  the  direction  for  carving  each  dish. 
One  point  it  ij  well  to  remember  :  never  use  a  knife  when 
you  can  help  with  a  spoon.  The  lighting  the  dinner-table 
well  is  of  some  importance.  People  like  to  see  their  dinner, 
but  lamps  and  candles  on  the  table  are  liable  to  accidents. 
Gas  is  also  objectionable ;  the  heat  from  it  is  oppressive,  and 
the  light  too  glaring  to  be  pleasant  to  the  eyes,  or  becoming 
to  female  beauty  :  chandeliers  with  wax  lights  or  a  suspended 
and  shaded  lamp  we  would  recommend  as  most  favourable  to 
the  banquet  and  the  company.  Few  dishes  are  now  placed 
on  the  table  at  dessert.  There  should  be  at  least  three 
glasses  placed  before  each  guest,  one  of  which  must  be  of 
coloured  glass,  and  water-tumblers  here  and  there  at  hand. 
To  each,  also,  a  dessert-plate,  a  knife,  fork,  nut-crackers, 
and  d'Oyley ;  the  decanters  of  such  wines  as  the  host  chooses 
to  bring  forth,  on  their  proper  stands ;  and  salt-cellars,  and 
sugar-vases  with  perforated  ladles,  must  also  be  on  the  table. 


HOW  TO  CARVE.  19! 

When  the  lady  of  the  house  perceives  that  her  female 
guests  have  taken  the  wine  they  wish,  she  signifies  by  a  slight 
inclination  the  request  to  leave  the  table,  and  on  her  rising 
some  chivalrous  gentleman  opens  the  door  for  the  ladies  to 
pass  into  the  drawing-room,  where  it  is  the  duty  of  the  mis- 
tress of  the  house  to  offer  the  usual  amusements  to  her  friends 
— music,  books  of  drawings,  or  conversation ;  but  few  efforts 
are  required  among  well-bred  guests. 

Coffee  should  then  be  brought  in.  If  only  one  servant  be 
employed,  every  lady  must  prepare  her  own  cup.  When 
there  are  two  servants,  the  cups  are  on  one  tray,  and  the 
second  attendant  follows  with  the  coffee-pot,  and  fills  the  cup 
of  each  person. 

If  the  gentlemen  in  the  dining-room  do  not  join  the  ladies 
immediately,  coffee  is  served  to  them  at  table  when  required  ; 
and  when  they  appear  in  the  drawing-room,  tea  is  handed 
round. 

The  greatest  aid  to  the  pleasure  of  a  mixed  party  is  that 
ease  of  manner  which  the  habits  of  good  society  produce. 
When  the  hosts  are  composed  and  cheerful,  the  company 
commonly  follow  the  example,  and  awkward  restraint  dis- 
appears. 


CARVING. 

Though  in  the  present  day  no  lady  would  be  permitted  to 
perform  the  heavier  duties  of  carving  for  a  large  company  un- 
assisted, yet  it  is  by  no  means  inconsistent  with  the  character 
of  a  well  bred  woman  to  understand,  and  occasionally  to  prac- 
tise, the  duty.  In  the  middle  classes  this  duty  is  not  "nusually 
taken  by  the  wife  of  a  man  whom  business  may  often  detain 
from  his  home ;  and  a  skilful  and  economical  carver  is  no 
bad  helpmate  for  a  hard-working  professional  man. 

Men  ought  to  know  how  to  carve  any  joint  or  dish  set  be* 
fore  them,  or,  however  high  their  standing  in  the  world,  they 
appear  awkward  and  clownish ;  and,  therefore,  all  men 
should  practise  the  art  of  carving  in  their  youth. 

The  first  necessary  provisions  for  carving  are  the  proper 
utensils  ;  the  most  skilful  of  artists  would  be  defeated  in  his 
aim  if  he  had  not  his  tools.  The  carving-knives  and  forks  are 
now  made  specially  for  the  various  dishes.  The  fish-carvers, 


192  HOW  TO  CARVE. 

of  silver  or  silvered  metal — the  touch  of  steel  destroys  the 
flavour  of  the  fish — should  be  broad,  so  that  the  flakes  be  not 
broken  in  raising.  For  the  joints  of  meat,  a  long,  very  sharp 
steel  blade ;  and  for  poultry  and  game,  a  long-handled  but 
short  and  pointed  blade,  to  be  inserted  dexterously  between 
the  small  joints  of  the  birds.  The  forks  must  be  two-pronged, 
and  the  dish  must  be  sufficiently  near  to  the  carver  to  give  an 
easy  command  over  it. 

Having  the  needful  utensils  for  work,  all  now  depends  on 
the  coolness,  confidence,  and  dexterity  of  the  carver,  with  that 
small  knowledge  of  anatomy  that  enables  him  to  know  what 
joints  there  must  be  in  the  piece  before  him,  and  where  they  are 
situated.  In  butcher's  meat,  one  rule  is  almost  universal : 
the  slice  cut  must  be  cut  across  the  fibres  of  the  meat,  and 
not  along  them  ;  a  process  which  renders  it  more  easy  to  mas- 
ticate and  digest.  The  exceptions  to  this  rule  are  the  fillet  or 
under-cut  in  a  sirloin  of  beef,  and  the  slices  along  the  bone  in 
a  saddle  of  mutton.  In  cutting  a  joint  of  meat,  the  strong 
fork  is  used  to  steady  it ;  but  in  carving  poultry  it  is  the  fork 
•which  is  most  useful  in  removing  the  wing  and  leg  by  a  jerk, 
without  leaving  any  ragged  remains  adhering  to  the  body. 
All  this  must  be  accomplished  by  dexterity,  not  by  strength, 
and  any  lady  may  acquire  the  art  by  a  little  observation  and 
practice. 

A  knife  should  never  be  used  for  pies,  entries,  or  sweet 
dishes  ;  a  spoon  wherever  a  spoon  can  be  used. 

In  helping  to  choice  dishes,  stuffings,  &c.,  the  carver  should 
always  calculate  Che  number  of  the  company,  and  proportion 
the  delicacies  discreetly. 


FISH. 

TURBOT. 

There  is  more  art  in  delicately  carving  the  imperial  turbot 
than  any  other  fish,  in  order  that  every  one  may  be  supplied 
with  the  rich  skin  and  fins,  so  highly  appreciated  by  epicures. 
It  is  always  brought  to  table  with  the  white  or  under-side 
uppermost,  as  this  is  the  most  delicate  part.  The  point  of 
the  fish-knife  must  be  drawn  done  the  middle  to  the  bone, 
and  from  thence  deep  cuts  made  at  right  angles,  and  the 
squares,  thus  made,  carefully  raised,  including  the  portion  of 


HOW  TO  CARVE. 


193 


fin  attached  to  each.     After  the  upper  part  is  consumed,  the 
back-bone  may  be  removed,  and  the  lower  part  divided  in  the 


same  way,  neatly,  and  without  breaking  the  flakes.  Brill,  ft 
fish  much  inferior  in  quality,  but  sometimes  introduced  as 
turbot,  must  be  carved  in  the  same  way. 


COD-FISH. 


Next  to  turbot,  a  cod's  head  and  shoulders  is  the  hand- 
•omest  dish  of  fish  brought  to  table.     The  fish-knife  must  be 


passed  through  the  back  from  I  to  2,  ai»d  then  transversely 
in  slices.  No  fish  requires  more  care  in  helping,  for  when 
properly  boiled  the  flakes  easily  fall  asunder,  and  require  a 
neat  hand  to  prevent  the  dish  looking  untidy.  With  each 
slice  should  be  sent  a  portion  of  the  sound,  which  is  the 
dark  lining  underneath  the  back-bone,  to  be  reached  with 
a  spoon.  Part  of  the  liver  may  be  given  if  required.  The 
gelatinous  part  about  the  eye,  called  the  cheek,  is  also  a 
delicacy,  and  must  be  distributed  justly,  according  to  the 
number  of  the  party. 

13 


194  HOW  TO  CARVE. 


SALMON,    ETC. 

The  best  part  of  a  large  salmon  is  a  thick  piece  from  th« 
middle.     It  must  be  carved  by  first  making  an  incision  down 


the  back,  I  to  2,  and  a  second  from  5  to  6  ;  then  divide  the 
side  3  to  4,  and  cut  the  slices,  as  preferred,  from  the  upper  or 
thick  part,  or  from  the  lower  richer  thin  part,  or  give  a  little 
of  each.  Salmon  trout,  as  it  is  usually  called,  haddocks,  or 
large  whitings  are  carved  in  the  same  way. 


MACKEREL 


It  is  usual  to  split  the  fish  from  head  to  tail,  and,  if  not  very 
large,  to  serve  it  in  two  pieces.  Most  of  the  smaller  fishes 
may  be  carved  in  this  way,  if  too  large  to  serve  whole.  In 
every  case,  one  grand  rule  in  carving  fish  must  be  attended  to 
— not  to  break  the  flakes,  and  to  help  compactly,  not  in  de- 
tached fragments. 


JOINTS. 
HAUNCH  OP  VENISON,    OR  MUTTON  AS  VENISON. 

It  is  very  necessary  that  every  one  who  undertakes  to  carve 
a  haunch  of  venison  should  be  aware  of  the  responsibility  of 
his  duty.  An  ill-cut  or  inferior  slice,  an  undue  portion  of  fat, 
or  a  deficiency  of  gravy  is  an  insult  to  an  epicure.  The  joint 
must  first  have  a  deep  incision  across  the  knuckle,  I  to  2,  to 
allow  the  gravy  to  flow  ;  then  long  parallel  thin  slices  along 
the  line  3  to  4,  with  a  portion  of  the  fat,  and,  if  required,  of 


HOW  TO  CARVE.  195 

the  rich  kidney  fat  lying  under  the  loin  ;    the  gravy  also, 
which  is,  or  ought  to  be,  very  strong,  must  be  discreetly  por- 


tioned  out  according  to  the  number  at  table. 
mutton  must  be  carved  in  the  same  way. 


The  haunch  of 


MUTTON  AND  LAMB. 

SADDLE   OF  MUTTON   OR  LAMB. 

This  very  handsome  joint  is  commonly  and  easily  carved 
in  long  tli in  slices  from  each  side  of  the  bone,  with  a  little 
additional  fat  cut  from  the  left  side.  Or,  with  a  little  more 
care,  the  newer  mode  may  be  followed  of  carving  oblique 
slices  from  the  centre,  beginning  at  the  bone  near  the  tail,  and 
cutting  the  slices  through  the  joint,  thus  mingling  the  fat 
and  lean.  A  saddle  of  lamb,  a  pretty  dish  in  season,  must 
be  carved  in  the  same  way. 


LEG  OF  MUTTON  OR  LAMB. 

The  best  part  of  this  joint  is  in  the  middle,  between  the 
knuckle  and  farther  end,  and  the  best  way  to  carve  it  is  to 
make  a  deep  cut  at  I,  and  continue  to  cut  thin  slices  as  far 
as  2,  on  each  side  of  the  first  incision ;  but  as  more  fat  is 
usually  required  than  lies  with  the  slice,  a  small  neat  slice 
may  be  added  from  the  broad  end  at  3.  The  cramp-bone  may 


»96  HOW  TO  CARVE. 

be  extracted,  if  asked  for,  by  cutting  down  at  4,  and  passing 
the  knife  under  in  a  semicircle  to  5.  The  delicate  fine  meat 
of  the  under  side,  which  lies  beneath  the  "Pope's  eye,"  is 
sometimes  demanded  by  epicures. 


SHOULDER  OF  MUTTON  OR  LAMB. 

Make  an  incision  at  I  down  to  the  bone,  which  will  then 
afford  a  deep  gap,  from  which  on  each  side  you  may  help  thin 
slices,  adding  a  little  fat  from  the  outer  edge  marked  2.  If 
the  demands  are  more  than  can  be  supplied  at  the  first  open- 
ing, additional  slices  may  be  obtained  by  cutting  down  to  the 
blade-bone,  marked  3,  on  each  side.  Some  of  the  party  may 
prefer  slices  from  the  under  side,  the  meat  of  which  is  juicy, 
though  less  fine  in  grain ;  these  must  be  cut  horizontally; 

LOIN  OF  MUTTON. 

A  loin  of  mutton  is  always  brought  to  table  with  the  joints 
of  the  bones  divided  ;  it  is  therefore  merely  necessary  to  begin 
it  the  narrow  end,  and  cut  off  one  chop  at  a  time,  with  a 
small  portion  of  the  kidney  if  required,  or  of  the  rich  kidney 
fat. 

KECK  OF  MUTTON. 

The  joints  of  a  neck  of  mutton  are  always  divided  before 
cooking  in  the  same  way  as  those  of  the  loin,  and  the  carving 
is  simple.  It  is  only  necessary  to  begin  at  the  long  bones, 
where  the  best  meat  lies,  the  scrag,  as  it  is  usually  called, 
being  coarse  and  gristly,  and  frequently  taken  off  befcre  the 
oint  is  dressed  for  the  table. 


HOW  TO  CARVE.  197 


LAMB. 


Lamb  is  generally  carved  in  the  same  way  as  mutton,  but 
rather  more  sparingly,  as  there  is  less  meat  on  the  joint ;  but 
when  sent  to  table  in  the  quarter,  as  it  commonly  is  when 
young,  it  must  be  cut  up  after  its  o\tn  fashion  as  follows. 

FORE  QUARTER  OP  LAMB. 

This  consists  of  the  shoulder,  ribs,  and  brisket.  The 
shoulder  must  first  be  raised  from  the  rest  by  passing  the  knife 
under  the  knuckle  in  the  direction  of  I,  2,  3,  leaving  a  good 
portion  of  meat  adhering  to  the  ribs.  A  slice  of  butter, 
seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  is  laid  between  them,  and  the 


-   Jf* 


juice  of  a  lemon  squeezed  over  the  ribs.  This  must  remain  a 
minute,  and  the  shoulder  may  then  be  removed  to  another 
dish,  for  the  convenience  of  carving  the  rest.  The  ribs  and 
brisket  must  then  be  divided  in  the  line  3,  4,  the  ribs  separa- 
ted, and  brisket  cut  into  small  divisions,  giving  each  person 
the  choice  of  a  rib  or  piece  of  the  brisket.  The  shoulder,  if 
required,  must  be  cut  in  the  same  way  as  a  shoulder  of 
mutton. 

BEEF. 

SIRLOIN  OF  BEEF. 

The  principal  joint  of  beef,  the  sirloin,  must  be  carved  out. 
side  or  inside,  according  to  the  taste  of  the  guests.  The  rich 
delicate  meat  under  the  bone,  called  the  fillet,  is  carved  in 
parallel  slices  across  the  joint  and  along  the  grain,  contrary  to 
llie  uiu<-J.  mode  of  cutting  meat.  The  outer  part  is  carved  in  long 
slices  cut  down  to  the  bone  in  the  direction  I,  2,  beginning  at 
the  edge,  the  brown  being  the  first  slice.  Many  prefer  to  cut 


198 


HOW  TO  CARVE. 


the  slices  across  the  joint,  beginning  in  the  middle  ;  certainly 
easier  for  the  carver,  but  destructive  to  the  future  appearance 


of  the  joint,  nor  is  the  meat  so  tender  thus  crossed.  A  portion 
of  the  under  fat  should  be  reserved  for  the  upper  slices. 


RIBS  OF  BEEF. 


Must  be  carved  like  the  upper  part  of  the  sirloin.  There  is 
no  fillet  in  this  joint.  It  is  usual  to  begin  the  slices  at  the 
thin  end. 


ROUND  OF  BEEF. 


With  a  sharp  thin-bladed  knife  shave  off  in  a  horizontal 
manner  the  first  slice,  leaving  the  round  flat  and  smooth. 
The  meat  is  disfigured  if  this  smoothness  is  not  preserved ; 
it  is  therefore  necessary  that  your  knife  be  sharp  and  your 
hand  steady.  It  must  be  served  in  very  thin  slices. 


THE  AITCH-BONE,    OR.  EDGE-BONE 

Is  usually  skewered  and  boiled  with  part  of  the  rump, 
•arming  a  sort  of  round,  to  be  carved  the  same  way  as  the 


HOW  TO  CARVE. 


199 


round.  The  soft,  marrow  kind  of  fat  is  at  the  back  of  the 
bone,  below  4,  and  must  be  supplied  when  required  ;  the 
harder  fat  is  at  the  edge  of  the  meat,  3,  and  will  accompany 
each  slice. 

RUMP  OR   BUTTOCK   OF  BEEF. 

In  carving  the  rump,  buttock,  or  other  joints  of  beef,  it  is 
merely  necessary  to  observe,  that  every  slice  should  be  as 
neatly  as  practicable  cut  across  the  grain.  Even  in  the  brisket) 
the  slices  must  be  across  the  bones,  and  not  through. 


TONGUE. 

The  tongue  may  be  sent  to.  table  either  rolled  or  in  length. 
If  rolled,  slices  are  cut  as  in  a  round  of  beef;  if  not  rolled,  it 
must  be  cut  nearly  in  the  middle,  not  quite  through,  and  slices 
taken  from  each  side,  with  a  little  of  the  fat  which  lies  at  the 
root,  if  liked. 


VEAL. 
CALF'S  HEAD. 

The  half-head  is  often  sent  to  table ;  but  when  a  whole 
head  is  served,  it  is  only  necessary  to  know  the  delicate  parts 


200 


HOW  TO  CARVE. 


and  to  distribute  them  impartially.  Long  slices  of  the  gela» 
tinous  skin,  cut  down  to  the  bone  from  I  to  2,  must  be  served. 
The  throat  sweetbread,  as  it  is  called,  lies  at  the  thick  neck 
end ;  and  slices,  from  3  to  4,  must  be  added  to  the  gelatine. 
The  eye  is  also  a  delicacy  :  this  must  be  extracted  with  th« 
point  of  the  knife,  and  divided  at  discretion.  The  palate,  sit« 
uated  under  the  head,  must  also  be  apportioned,  and,  if  neces* 
sary,  the  jaw-bone  should  be  removed,  to  obtain  the  lean  meat 
below  it. 

LOIN  OF  VEAL 

Is  usually  divided  into  two  portions — the  chump  end  and  the 
kidney  end  ;  the  latter  of  which,  the  most  delicate  part,  must 
be  separated  in  bones  which  have  been  jointed  before  cooking. 
Part  of  the  kidney,  and  of  the  rich  fat  which  surrounds  it,  must 
be  given  to  each.  The  chump  end,  after  the  tail  is  removed  and 
divided,  may  be  served  in  slices  without  bone,  i*  preferred  to 
the  richer  end. 


FILLET  OF  VEAL. 

The  fillet  of  veal,  corresponding  to  the  round  of  beef,  must 
be  carved  in  the  same  way,  in  horizontal  slices,  with  a  sharp 
knife  to  preserve  the  smooth  surface.  The  first,  or  brown 
slice,  is  preferred  by  some  persons,  and  it  should  be  divided  as 
required.  For  the  force-meat,  which  is  covered  with  the  flap, 
you  must  cut  deep  into  it  between  i  and  2,  and  help  to  each  a 
thin  slice,  with  a  little  of  the  fat. 


BREAST  OF  VEAL. 

The  breast  is  composed  of  the  ribs  and  brisket,  and  these 


HOW  TO  CARVE. 


301 


must  first  be  separated  by  cutting  through  the  line  I,  2.  The 
taste  of  the  guests  must  then  be  consulted  ;  if  the  ribs  be  pre- 
ferred, the  bones  are  easily  divided  ;  if  the  brisket,  which  is 
thick,  and  contains  the  gristle,  which  many  like,  it  must  be 


in  small  transverse  squares.  The  sweetbread  is  commonly 
served  with  a  roast  breast  of  veal,  and  a  small  portion  of  it 
must  be  given  with  every  plate. 

KNUCKLE  OF  VEAL. 

This  part  is  always  boiled  or  stewed,  and  the  fat  and  ten- 
dons render  it  a  dish  much  esteemed  :  some  good  slices  may 
also  be  cut,  and  the  marrowy  fat  which  lies  between  two  of 
the  outer  bones  must  be  carefully  portioned  out. 

SHOULDER  AND  NECK  OF  VEAL. 

Though  the  shoulder  of  veal  maybe  carved  in  the  same  way 
as  mutton,  it  is  usual  to  turn  it  over,  and  cut  moderately  thick 
slices  from  the  thick  edge  opposite  to  the  bone,  and  parallel 
with  it. 

The  tuck,  of  which  the  best  end  only  is  usually  roasted,  and 
stuffed  under  the  skin,  must  be  divided  in  the  same  way  as  a 
neck  of  mutton. 


PORK. 

LEG  OR  HAND  OF  PORK. 


Commonly  the  joints  of  pork  are  carved  in  the  same  wayai 


203  HOW  TO  CARVE. 

the  similar  joints  of  mutton,  in  slices  across,  cut  very  deep,  at 
marked  1,2.  In  the  leg,  however,  the  close,  firm  flesh  about 
the  knuckle  is  more  highly  esteemed  than  in  the  same  part  of 
a  leg  of  mutton,  and  must  be  dealt  out  impartially. 

The  hand  is  a  delicate  joint,  and  may  be  carved  from  the 
blade-bone  as  in  mutton,  or  in  thin  slices  across,  near  the 
knuckle. 

SPARE-RIB   OF  FORK 

Is  usually  accompanied  by  apple  sauce  to  correct  the  richness 
of  the  gravy.  The  fleshy  part  is  first  cut  in  long  slices,  and 
the  spare  bones  are  then  easily  divided. 


HAM. 

The  usual  method  of  carving  the  ham  is  by  cutting  down 
directly  to  the  bone  three  or  four  thin  slices  in  the  direction 
I,  2  ;  then  by  passing  the  knife  along  the  bone,  yon  com- 
pletely detach  them,  and  give  a  due  portion  of  fat  to  each.  If 


you  wish  to  be  more  economical,  you  must  begin  at  the  knuckle 
and  gradually  work  onward,  leaving  a  better  appearance  thar. 
when  cut  in  the  middle.  A  more  extravagant  method  is  by 
scooping  a  hole  in  the  middle,  and  cutting  circular  slices 
round,  on  the  principle  of  keeping  the  meat  moist  and  re- 
taining the  gravy.  This  is  obviously  a  wasteful  plan. 


HOW  TO  CARVE.  aoj 


A  SUCKING  PIG. 

Before  it  is  sent  to  table,  the  head  is  removed  and  opened, 
and  the  body  split  in  two,  thus  rendering  it  very  easy  to  carve. 
First  separate  the  shoulders,  then  the  legs  from  the  body. 
The  triangular  piece  of  the  neck  between  the  shoulders  is 
reckoned  the  most  delicate  part,  and  the  ribs  the  next  best. 
The  latter  are  easily  divided  according  to  the  number  oi 
guests,  being  commonly  little  more  than  gristle  ;  there  are 


choice  bits  also  in  the  shoulders  and  thighs  ;  the  ear  also  is 
reckoned  a  delicacy.  The  portion  of  stuffing  and  gravy  must 
not  be  forgotten  by  the  carver. 


POULTRY  AND  GAME. 

Be  careful  first  to  have  your  proper  carving-knife ;  and 
next  to  consider  the  number  of  the  company.  If  a  small 
number,  it  will  only  be  necessary  in  carving  a  goose,  turkey, 
or  duck,  to  cut  deep  slices  from  each  side  of  the  breast,  with- 
out winging  the  birds.  In  a  large  party  they  must  absolutely 
be  cut  up. 

GOOSE. 

In  carving  a  goose,  the  neck  must  be  turned  towards  you, 
and  the  skin  below  the  breast,  called  the  apron,  be  removed 
in  a  semicircular  direction,  to  enable  you  to  reach  the  stuffing 
inside.  Some  carvers  choose  to  pour  in  a  glass  of  port  wine, 
or  claret  mixed  with  mustard,  before  beginning  to  cut  up. 
The  slices  first  cut  are  on  each  side  of  the  breast-bone,  marked 
a,  b.  Then,  if  required,  the  wing  may  be  removed,  by  put- 
ting the  fork  into  the  small  end  of  the  pinion,  and  pressing  it 


204  HOW  TO  CARVE. 

close  to  the  body  until  you  divide  the  shoulder-joint  at  I, 
carrying  the  knife  on  as  far  as  2,  and  then  separating  by  draw- 
ing the  fork  back.  The  leg  must  be  removed  in  the  same 
manner  in  the  direction  2,  3,  and  the  thigh,  which  is  by  many 
considered  the  best  part,  must  be  separated  from  the  inferior 
drumstick.  The  merry-thought  may  be  removed  by  raising 


it  a  little  from  the  neck,  and  then  passing  the  knife  beneath, 
and  the  delicate  neck-bones  are  taken  off  the  same  way.  The 
rump  is  looked  on  by  epicures  as  a  dainty.  After  each  plate 
has  been  supplied  with  the  part  asked  for,  a  spoon  must  be 
introduced  at  the  neck  to  draw  out  the  proper  portion  of 
stuffing. 

A  green  goose  is  carved  much  in  the  same  way,  but  is  not 
stuffed,  and  only  the  breast  regarded  as  very  delicate. 

TURKEY. 

The  prime  part  of  the  turkey  is  the  breast,  and  it  is  only 
after  this  is  exhausted  that  the  real  cutting  up  of  the  bird  is 
required.  The  knife  must  be  passed  down  close  to  the  bone 
and  through  the  forcemeat  which  fills  the  breast,  and  then  thin 
slices,  with  a  due  portion  of  the  forcemeat,  distributed  ;  and 
except  in  a  very  large  party,  this  usually  is  sufficient ;  but  if 
more  be  required,  the  pinions  and  legs  must  be  taken  off  like 
those  of  the  goose.  The  thigh  is  good ;  the  pinion  and 
drumstick  are  usually  tough,  and  reserved  till  the  last ;  the 
side  or  neck-bones  are  delicate  ;  also  the  small  round  piece  of 
flesh  on  each  side  of  the  centre  of  the  back  called  the  oyster. 
Beyond  these  the  turkey  requires  no  more  carving. 

A  FOWL. 

The  fork  must  be  firmly  fixed  in  the  centre  of  the  breast, 
draw  the  knife  along  the  line  I  to  3,  and  then  proceed  to 
take  off  the  wing,  by  inserting  the  knife  under  the  joint  at  I, 
and  lifting  the  pinion  with  the  fork,  drawing  off  the  wing 


HOW  TO  CARVE.  205 

with  a  slice  of  the  breast  attached.  The  leg,  cut  round,  is 
easily  released  in  the  same  way.  The  merry-thought  may 
next  be  detached  by  turning  it  back  from  the  breast ;  the 
neck-bones  which  are  beneath  the  upper  part  of  the  wings 
are  easily  raised.  Then  the  breast  must  be  divided  from  the 
back  by  cutting  through  the  ribs  close  under  the  breast.  The 
back  may  then  be  turned  uppermost,  press  the  point  of  the 
knife  in  the  midst,  and  raise  the  lower  end  to  separate  it. 
Then  remove  the  rump,  and  cut  off  the  side  bones  which  lie 
on  each  side  of  the  back  by  forcing  the  knife  through  the 
rump-bone  and  drawing  them  from  the  back -bone ;  these 


side  bones  include  the  delicate  morsel  called  the  oyster.  The 
breast  and  wings  are  the  choice  parts  ;  the  liver,  which  is 
trussed  under  one  wing,  should  be  divided  to  offer  part  with 
the  other  wing,  the  gizzard  being  rarely  eaten  ;  but  the  legs 
in  a  young  fowl,  and  especially  in  a  boiled  fowl,  are  very 
good  ;  the  merry-thought  too  is  a  delicacy.  If  the  fowl  be 
very  large,  it  is  commonly  carved  like  a  turkey,  with  slices 
first  cut  from  the  breast.  When  a  fowl  is  sent  to  table  cold 
at  luncheon  or  supper,  it  is  often  carved  first  and  then  neatly 
tied  together  with  white  ribbons.  This  looks  well,  and  i* 
very  convenient  in  a  large  party. 

DUCK. 

A  duck,  if  large,  must  be  carved  as  directed  for  a  goose, 
by  cutting  slices  from  the  breast,  and  afterwards  removirg 
the  wings  and  legs ;  but  if  a  very  young  bird,  it  is  commonly 
disjointed  first  and  then  served  in  the  same  way  as  a  fowl. 
The  seasoned  onions  and  sage  placed  under  the  apron  may 
be  removed  with  a  spoon  if  required,  but  some  have  an  ob- 
jection to  the  strong  flavour,  and  it  is  necessary  to  know  that 
it  is  not  disagreeable  to  them  before  you  place  it  on  the 
plate. 


ao6  HOW  TO  CARVE. 


WILD  DUCK. 

The  choice  part  of  a  wild  duck  is  the  breast,  which  is  cut 
in  long  slices  from  the  neck  to  the  leg.  It  is  rarely  the  bird 
is  required  to  be  disjointed,  but  if  it  be  necessary,  it  can  be 
cut  up  like  a  fowl. 


PHEASANT. 

In  the  same  manner  in  which  you  carve  a  fowl  fix  your 
fork  in  the  centre  of  the  breast ;  cut  slices  from  the  breast ; 
remove  the  leg,  which  is  considered  excellent,  in  a  line  at  3, 


and  the  wing  at  3,  5.  To  draw  off  the  merry-thought,  pass 
the  knife  through  the  line  6  beneath  it  towards  the  neck,  and 
it  will  easily  be  detached.  In  other  respects  serve  it  in  the 
same  way  as  a  fowl,  the  breast  and  thigh  being  most  valued. 


GROUSE, 

The  first  unrivalled  bird  of  game,  due  on  the  I2th  of  August, 
breaking  up  the  senate  of  the  kingdom,  and  accessible  only 
to  the  few  whom  wealth  or  privilege  give  the  entree  into  the 
preserved  regions,  has,  when  even  thrown  into  the  market  by 
the  mercenary  scions  of  the  great,  a  considerable  value  ;  and 
perhaps  it  is  only  in  the  North  that  it  is  properly  cooked  and 
appreciated.  A  moor  bird  requires  a  particular  sagacity  in 
carving,  which  is  a  secret  to  the  uninitiated.  You  may  carve 
it  like  a  common  fowl ;  but  the  epicure  alone  knows  that  it 
is  in  the  back  that  the  true  flavour  of  the  heath  is  found,  and 
in  the  North  the  back  is  recognized  as  the  chief  delicacy,  and 
must  be  carefully  proportioned  among  the  auests. 


HOW  TO  CARVE.  20? 


PARTRIDGE. 

The  partridge  is  always  well  received  in  dinner  society ; 
and  if  the  party  be  large  and  the  supply  of  game  small,  the 
partridges  must  be  jointed  like  a  fowl,  to  make  the  most  of 
them,  but  in  a  small  party  it  is  only  necessary  to  fix  the  knife 
in  the  back,  and  separate  the  bird  at  once  into  back  and 
breast,  dividing  it  then  according  to  the  number  of  guests, 
always  remembering  that  the  back  of  a  well-fed  partridge  is 
by  no  means  a  despicable  morsel. 


WOODSTOCK  OR  SNIPE. 

The  great  peculiarity  in  carving  the  woodcock  or  snipe  is, 
that  the  bird  is  not  drawn  like  other  birds,  but  roasted  as  it 
is  plucked,  suspended  by  the  head,  with  a  toast  beneath,  on 
which  the  trail,  as  it  is  called,  or  internal  part,  is  allowed  to 
drop  ;  and  when  the  birds  are  roasted,  which  should  be 
rapidly  done  in  twenty  minutes,  the  trail  should  be  spread 
over  each  toast  and  the  bird  served  up  oa  it.  It  is  then  only 
necessary  to  carve  each  bird  through  the  breast  and  back, 
with  its  due  proportion  of  the  trail  and  toast.  The  best  part, 
however,  if  carved,  is  the  thigh. 


PIGEONS. 

As  the  pigeon  is  too  small  a  bird  to  disjoint,  it  is  the  fairest 
division  to  cut  it  through  the  middle  of  the  breast  and  back 
in  two  equal  parts.  Another  mode  is  to  insert  the  knife  at  I, 


•nd  cut  on  each  side  to  2  and  3,  and  forcing  them  asunci 
L  divide  each  portion  into  two  ;  but  this  is  not  needed  exce^ 
n  a  large  party, 


2o8  HOW  TO  CARVE. 


SMALL  BIRDS. 

Fieldfares,  larks,  corn-crakes,  quails,  plovers,  and  ruffs  and 
reeves,  should  be  always  cut  through  the  breast,  and  served 
only  for  two  helps. 

HARE. 

The  old  way  of  carving  a  hare,  still  insisted  on  at  many 
economical  tables,  is  somewhat  elaborate.  You  must  first 
insert  the  knife  in  the  point  of  the  shoulder  marked  I,  and 
divide  it  down  along  the  line  to  the  rump,  2  ;  and  doing  the 
same  at  the  opposite  side,  the  hare  falls  into  three  pieces. 
Pass  the  knife  under  the  shoulder,  2 — I,  and  remove  it ;  then 
the  leg,  which  is  really  good,  in  a  similar  manner.  The 
animal  must  be  beheaded,  for  it  is  necessary  to  divide  the 
head,  which  must  be  done  by  turning  the  mouth  towards  you, 
holding  it  steadily  down  with  the  fork,  inserting  the  knife 
through  the  bone  between  the  ears,  and  forcing  it  through, 
entirely  dividing  it.  Half  the  head  is  given  to  any  one  that 


requires  it,  the  crisp  ears  being  first  cut  off,  a  delicacy  some 
prefer.  The  back,  which  is  the  most  tender  part,  must  now 
be  divided  through  the  spine  into  several  pieces  ;  it  is  only 
after  the  back  is  distributed  that  it  is  necessary  to  have  re- 
course to  the  shoulders  and  legs.  If  the  hare  be  old,  it  is 
useless  to  attempt  to  carve  it  entirely  at  table,  the  joints  be- 
come so  stubborn  with  age  ;  and  it  is  then  usual  to  cut  long 
slices  on  each  side  of  the  back-l>one.  A  great  deal  of  the 
blood  usually  settles  in  the  shoulders  and  back  of  the  neck, 
giving  the  flesh  a  richness  which  epicures  like  ;  and  these 
parts,  called  the  sportsman's  pieces,  are  sometimes  demanded. 
The  seasoning  or  stuffing  of  a  hare  lies  inside,  and  must  L* 
drawn  out  with  a  spoon 


HOW  TO  CARVE.  209 


RABBIT. 


The  rules  for  carving  a  hare  sufficiently  direct  the  mode  of 
carving  a  rabbit,  except  that,  being  so  much  smaller,  the  back 
is  never  divided  into  more  than  two  or  three  pieces,  and  the 
head  is  served  whole,  if  demanded.  The  wing  is  though  la 
choice  part  by  many. 


nub  Sentiment*. 


AMATORY. 

British  belles  and  British  fashions. 
Laughing  lovers  to  merry  maids. 
Love  and  opportunity. 
Love's  slavery. 

Love  without  licentiousness,  and  pleasure  without  excess 
Love,  liberty,  and  length  of  blissful  days. 
Love  without  fear,  and  life  without  care. 
Love  for  one. 

Life,  love,  liberty,  and  true  friendship. 
Love  in  eve,y  breast,  liberty  in  every  heart,  and  learning  in 
every  head. 

Love  at  liberty,  and  liberty  in  love. 

Love :  may  it  never  make  a  wise  man  play  the  fooL 

Artless  love  and  disinterested  friendship. 

All  that  love  can  give,  and  sensibility  enjoy. 

A  speedy  union  to  every,  lad  and  lass. 

Beauty's  best  companion— Modesty. 

Beauty,  innocence,  and  modest  merit. 

Beauty  without  affectation,  and  virtue  without  deceit. 

Community  of  goods,  unity  of  hearts,  nobility  of  sentiment, 
and  truth  of  feeling  to  the  lovers  of  the  fair  sex. 


TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS.  21 1 

Charms  to  strike  the  sight,  and  merit  to  win  the  heart. 
Constancy  in  love,  and  sincerity  in  friendship. 

Here's  a  health  to  the  maid  that  is  constant  and  kind, 
Who  to  charms  bright  as  Venus's  adds  Diana's  mind. 
I'll  toast  Britain's  daughters — let  all  fill  their  glasses — 
Whose  beauty  and  virtue  the  whole  world  surpasses. 
May  blessings  attend  them,  go  wherever  they  will, 
And  foul  fall  the  man  that  e'er  offers  them  ill. 

Love  without  deceit,  and  matrimony  without  regret. 

Love's  garlands  :  may  they  ever  entwine  the  brows  of  every 
true-hearted  lover. 

Lovely  woman — man's  best  and  dearest  gift  of  life. 
Love  to  one,  friendship  to  a  few,  and  good-will  to  all. 
Long  life,  pure  love,  and  boundless  liberty. 

May  love  and  reason  be  friends,  and  beauty  and  prudence 
marry. 

May  the  lovers  of  the  fair  sex  never  want  the  means  to  defend 
them. 

May  the  sparks  of  love  brighten  into  a  flame. 

May  the  joys  of  the  fair  give  pleasure  to  the  heart. 

May  we  be  loved  by  those  whom  we  love. 

May  we  kiss  whom  we  please,  and  please  whom  we  kiss. 

May  the  bud  of  affection  be  ripened  by  the  sunshine  of  sin- 
cerity. 

May  a  virtuous  offspring  succeed  to  mutual  and  honourable 
love. 

May  the  presence  of  the  fair  curb  the  licentious. 

May  the  confidence  of  love  be  rewarded  with  constancy  in  its 
object. 

May  the  honourable  lover  attain  the  object  of  his  wishes. 
May  the  lovers  of  the  fair  be  modest,  faithful,  and  kind. 
May  the  wings  of  love  never  lose  a  feather. 

May  the  blush  of  conscious  innocence  ever  deck  the  faces  of 
the  British  fair. 

May  the  union  of  persons  always  be  founded  on  that  of 
hearts. 

14-3 


212  TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS. 

May  the  generous  heart  ever  meet  a  chaste  mate. 

May  the  temper  of  our  wives  be  suited  to  those  of  theii 

husbands. 

May  true  passion  never  meet  wifti  a  slight 
May  every  woman  have  a  protector,  but  not  a  tyrant. 


BACCHANALIAN. 

May  we  act  with  reason  when  the  bottle  circulates. 

May  good  fortune  resemble  the  bottle  and  bowl, 
And  stand  by  the  man  who  can't  stand  by  himself. 

May  we  never  want  wine,  nor  a  friend  to  partake  of  it. 
May  our  love  of  the  glass  never  make  us  forget  decency. 

May  the  juice  of  the  grape  enliven  each  soul, 

And  good  humour  preside  at  the  head  of  each  bowL 

May  mirth  exalt  the  feast. 

May  we  always  get  mellow  with  good  wine. 

May  the  moments  of  mirth  be  regulated  by  the  dial  of  reason. 

Champagne  to  our  real  friends,  and  real  pain  to  our  sham 
friends. 

Come,  every  man  now  give  his  toast — 

Fill  up  the  glass — I'll  tell  you  mine  : 
Wine  is  the  mistress  I  love  most ! 

This  is  my  toast — now  give  me  thine. 

Cheerfulness  in  our  cups,  content  in  our  minds,  and  com- 
petency hi  our  pockets. 

Come,  fill  the  glass  and  drain  the  bowl : 

May  Love  and  Bacchus  still  agree  j 
And  every  Briton  warm  his  soul 

With  Cupid,  Wine,  and  Liberty. 

Good-humour  :  and  may  it  ever  smile  at  our  board. 
Full  bags,  a  fresh  bottle,  and  a  beauty. 

Good  wine  and  good  company  to  the  Jcwi  of 
enjoyment. 


TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS,  213 

A  friend  and  a  bottle  to  give  him. 

A    hearty   supper,  a  good  bottle,  and  a  soft  bed  to  every 

man  who  fights  the  battles  of  his  country. 
A  full  purse,  a  fresh  bottle,  and  beautiful  face. 
A  full  bottle  and  a  friend  to  partake  of  it. 

A  drop  of  good  stuff  and  a  snug  social  party, 
To  spend  a  dull  evening,  gay,  social,  and  hearty, 

A  mirth-inspiring  bowl. 

A  full  belly,  a  heavy  purse,  and  a  light  heart. 

A  bottle  at  night  and  business  in  the  morning. 

Beauty,  wit,  and  wine. 

Clean  glasses  and  old  corks. 

Wine  :  may  it  be  our  spur  as  we  ride  over  the  bad  roads  of 
life 

While  we  enjoy  ourselves  over  the  bottle,    may   we  never 
drive  prudence  out  of  the  room. 

Wine — for  there's  no  medicine  like  it. 

Wine — the  parent  of  friendship,  composer  of  strife, 
The  soother  of  sorrow,  the  blessing  of  life. 

Wine  :  the  bond  that  cements  the  warm  heart  to  a  friend. 


COMIC. 

May  the  tax-gatherer  be  forgiven  in  another  world. 
To  the  early  bird  that  catches  the  worm. 
To  the  bird  in  the  hand  that  is  worth  two  in  the  bush. 
Our  native,  land  :  may  we  never  be  lawfully  sent  out  of  it. 
Sound  hearts,  sound  sovereigns,  and  sound  dispositions. 

The  Queen,  and  may  true  Britons  never  be  without  her  like- 
ness in  their  pockets. 

The  land  we  live  in  :  may  he  who  doesn't  like  it  leave  it. 

The  three  great  Generals  in  power — General  Peace,  General 
Plenty,  and  General  Satisfaction. 


SI4  TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS. 

The    Bank    of  England's  passport  to  travel  with,   and  the 
Queen's  picture  for  a  companion. 

May  the  parched  pea  never  jump  out  of  the  frying-pan  into 
the  fire. 

The  three  R's  :  Reading,  'Riting,  and  'Rithmetic. 
May  evil  communications  never  corrupt  good  manners. 

May  the  celebrated  pin  a  day,  of  which  we  have  heard  so 
much,  always  make  the  groat  a  year. 

May  the  groat  a  year  never  be  unwisely  invested  in  a  Joint- 
Stock  Company. 

May  that  man  never  grow  fat 

Who  carries  two  faces  under  one  hat. 

Here's   to   the   best  physicians — Dr.  Diet,  Dr.  Quiet,  and 
Dr.  Merryman. 

Here's  to  the  feast  that  has  plenty  of  meat  and  very  little 
table-cloth. 

Here's  to  the  full  purse  that  never  lacks  friends. 
May  fools  make  feasts,  and  wise  men  eat  them. 

Here's  to  the  man  who  never   lets  his  tongue  cut  his  own 
throat. 

Here's  to  the  man  who  never  quarrels  with  his  bread  and 
butter. 

Here's  to  the  man  who  never  looks  a  gift-horse  in  the  mouth. 
Here's  to  the  old  bird  that  is  not  to  be  caught  with  chaif. 


CONSERVATIVE. 

A   health  to  those  ladies  who  set  the  example  of  wearing 
British  productions. 

May  Her  Majesty's  Ministers  ever  have  wisdom  to  plan  our 
institutions,  and  energy  and  firmness  to  support  them. 

Confusion  to  all  demagogues. 

May  the  productions  of   Britain's  isle  never  be  invaded  by 
foreigners. 


TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS.  215 

May  the  throne  and  the  altar  never  want  standing  armies 
to  back  them. 

Our  old  nobility. 

The  man  who  builds  up  rather  than  he  who  pulls  down. 

The  loyal  adherents  of  the  Queen  and  the  true  friends  of  the 
people. 

The  equilibrium  of  State,  may  it  always  be  preserved. 

The  ancient  ways. 

Judicious  reforms  and  reformers. 

The  universal  advancement  of  the  arts  and  sciences. 

All  our  independent  nobles  and  noble  hearts. 

May  the  dispensers  of  justice  ever  be  impartial. 

May  French  principles  never  corrupt  English  manners. 

May  the  interests  of  the  monarch  and  monarchy  never  be 
thought  distinct. 

May  the  worth  of  the  nation  be  ever  inestimable. 
May  taxation  be  lessened  annually. 

May  the  Gallic  cock  be  always  clipped  by  British,  valour  if  he 
crows  too  loud. 

May  the  sword  of  justice  be  swayed  by  the  hand  of  mercy. 

May  the  seeds  of  dissension  never  find  growth  in  the  soil  of 
Great  Britain. 

May  the  love  of  country  be  imprinted  in  every  Briton's  breast 

May  our  statesmen  ever  possess  the  justice  of  a  More  and  the 
wisdom  of  a  Bacon. 

Queen  and  Country. 

Liberty,  not  licence. 

Confusion  to  all  men  who  desert  their  party. 

Party  ties  before  all  other  ties. 

The  Queen  :  may  she  outlive  her  Ministers,  and  may  they 
live  long. 

A  lasting  cement  to  all  contending  powers. 

The  protectors  of  commerce  and  the  promoters  of  charity. 


2i6  TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS. 

A  revision  of  the  code  of  criminal  laws. 
The  Bar,  the  Pulpit,  and  the  Throne. 


GASTRONOMIC. 

Old  England's  roast  beef:  may  it  ever  be  the  standing  dish 
of  Britons. 

Our  constitutional  friends — the  Baron  and  the  Sir-loin. 

Roast  beef :  may  it  always  ennoble  our  veins  and  enrich  our 
blood. 

The  roast  beef  of  old  England. 

The    Union  dish:    English   beef,    Scotch  kale,   and  Irish 
potatoes. 


ENGLISH. 

England,  home,  and  beauty. 
English  oak  and  British  valour. 
England  for  ever  :  the  land  we  live  in. 

England,  Scotland,  and  Ireland  :  may  their  union  remain  un« 
disturbed  by  plots  or  treachery  to  the  end  of  time. 

England,  the  queen  of  the  isles  and  the  queen  of  the  main. 

May  old  England's  sons,  the  Americans,  never  forget  their 
mother. 


IRISH. 

A  high  post  to  the  enemies  of  Ould  Ireland. 
Erin,  the  land  of  the  brave  and  the  bold. 


TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS.  217 

Ireland  :  sympathy  for  her  wrongs,  and  a  determination  to 
redress  them. 

The  country  that  gave  St.  Patrick  birth,  the  birthplace  of  wit, 
and  hospitality's  home — dear  Ould  Ireland. 

May  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  be  ever  equally  distinguished 
by  their  love  of  liberty  and  true  patriotism. 

May  the  enemies  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  never  meet  a 
friend  in  either  country. 

Justice  to  Ireland. 

Ireland,  Scotland,  and  England  :  may  their  union  be  happier 
than  it  has  been, 


SCOTCH. 

A  health  to  the  friends  of  Caledonia. 

Caledonia,   the  nursery  of  learning  and  the  birthplace  of 
heroes. 

Scotland  and  the  productions  of  its  soil. 
Scottish  heroes,  and  may  their  fame  live  for  ever. 
Scotland,  the  birthplace  of  valour,  the  country  of  worth. 
The  Queen  and  the  Scottish  Union. 
The  nobles  of  Caledonia  and  their  ladies. 
To  the  memory  of  Scottish  heroines. 

The  Rose,  Thistle,  and  Shamrock  :  may  they  flourish  by  the 
common  graft  of  union. 

To  the  memory  of  Scotland's  heroes. 

To  the  memory  of  those  who  have  gloriously  fallen  in  the 
noble  struggle  for  independence. 


LIBERAL. 

Annihilation  to  the  trade  of  corruption. 
An  Englishman's  birthright :  trial  by  jury. 


2i8  TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS. 

Addition  to  our  trade,  multiplication  to  our  manufactures, 
subtraction  to  taxes,  and  reduction  to  places  and  pensions. 

All  the  honest  reformers  of  our  country. 

Britain  :  may  the  land  of  our  nativity  ever  be  the  abode  of 
freedom,  and  the  birthplace  of  heroes. 

Britain's  annals  :  may  they  never  suffer  a  moral  or  political 
blot. 

Confusion  to  those  who  barter  the  cause  of  their  country  for 
sordid  gain. 

Confusion  to  those  who,  wearing  the  mask  of  patriotism,  pull 
it  off  and  desert  the  cause  of  liberty  in  the  hour  of  trial. 

Confusion  to  those  despots  who  combine  against  the  liberties 
of  mankind. 

Disappointment  to  all  those  who  form  expectations  of  places 
and  pensions  on  the  ruin  of  their  country. 

Everlasting  life  to  the  man  who  gave  the  death-blow  to  the 
slave  trade. 

Community,  unity,  navigation,  and  trade. 

Faith  in  every  kind  of  commerce. 

Freedom  to  the  oppressed,  and  slavery  to  the  oppressors. 

Freedom  to  all  who  dare  contend  for  it. 

Oblivion  to  all  party  rage. 

Humanity  to  all  created  beings,  especially  to  our  own  species, 
whether  black  or  white. 

No  party  except  mankind. 

May  the  meanest  Briton  scorn  the  highest  slave. 

Old  England:  and  may  those  who  ill-use  her  be  speedily  kicked 
off. 

May  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  be  ever  equally  distinguished 
by  their  love  of  liberty  and  true  patriotism. 

May  every  succeeding  century  maintain  the  principles  of  the 
glorious  Revolution,  enjoy  the  blessings  of  them,  and  trans- 
mit them  to  future  ages  unimpaired  and  improved. 

May  the  whole  universe  be  incorporated  in  one  city,  and  every 
inhabitant  presented  with  the  freedom. 


TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS.  219 

May  Britons  share  the  triumphs  of  freedom,  and  ever  contend 
for  the  rights  and  liberties  of  mankind. 

May  freedom's  fire  take  new  birth  at  the  grave  of  liberty. 

May  our  country  be,  as  it  has  ever  been,  a  secure  asylum  to 
the  unfortunate  and  oppressed. 

High  wages,  and  sense  to  keep  them. 

May  the  freedom  of  election  be  preserved,  the  trial  by  jury 
maintained,  and  the  liberty  of  the  press  secured  to  the  latest 
posterity. 

May  the  tree  of  liberty  flourish  round  the  globe,  and  every 
human  being  partake  of  the  fruits. 

May  truth  and  liberty  prevail  throughout  the  world. 
May  all  partial  and  impolitic  taxes  be  abolished. 

May  Britons  never  have  a  tyrant  to  oppose  either  in  Church 
or  State. 

May  the  sons  of  liberty  marry  the  daughters  of  virtue. 

May  Britons  never  suffer  invasion,  nor  invade  the  rights  of 
others. 

May  the  miseries  of  war  be  banished  from  all  enlightened 
nations. 

May  our  trade  and  manufactures  be  unrestrained  by  the  fetters 
of  monopoly. 

May  the  whole  world  become  more  enlightened  and  civilized. 
May  revolutions  never  cease  while  tyranny  exists. 
Our  constitution  as  settled  at  the  Revolution. 

May  the  people  of  England  always  oppose  a  bad  Ministry,  and 
give  vigour  to  a  good  one. 

The  British  Lion  :  may  he  never  rise  in  anger  nor  lie  down  in 
fear. 

The  majesty  of  the  people  of  England. 

The  memory  of  our  brave  ancestors  who  brought  about  the 
Revolution,  and  may  a  similar  spirit  actuate  their  descend- 
ants. 

The  sacred  decree  of  heaven — Let  all  mankind  be  free. 

The  British  Constitution  ;  and  confusion  to  those  who  dislike  it. 


220  TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS. 

The  people — the  only  source  of  legitimate  power. 
The  subject  of  liberty  and  the  liberty  of  the  subject. 

The  non-electors  of  Great  Britain  :  may  they  speedily  be  enfran- 
chised. 

The  greatest  happiness  of  the  greatest  number. 

May  the  nation  that  plots  against  another's  liberty  or  pros- 
perity fall  a  victim  to  its  own  intrigues. 


LITERARY. 

Toleration  and  liberty  of  the  press. 

The  Fourth  Estate. 

The  liberty  of  the  press,  and  success  to  its  defenders. 

The  Press  :  the  great  bulwark  of  our  liberties,  and  may  it  ever 
.-main  unshackled. 

The  glorious  literature  of  Scotland. 
The  glorious  literature  of  Ireland. 
The  glorious  literature  of  England. 


LOYAL. 

QUEEN  VICTORIA  :  and  may  her  royal  offspring  adorn  the 
position  they  are  destined  to  fill. 

All  the  royal  family. 

A  speedy  export  to  all  the  enemies  of  Britain  without  a  draw- 
back. 

A  lasting  peace  or  an  honourable  war. 
A  health  to  our  English  patriots. 
Agriculture  and  its  improvers. 

All  the  societies  associated  for  promoting  the  happiness  of  the 
human  race. 

All  the  charitable  institutions  of  Great  Britain. 

An  Englishman's  castle— his  house  :  may  it  stand  for  ever, 


TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS.  a« 

Britoss  in  unity,  and  unity  in  Britain. 

British  virtue  :  may  it  always  find  a  protector,  but  never  need 
one. 

Great  Britain's  rising  star  :  the  Prince  of  Wales. 
Holy  pastors,  honest  magistrates,  and  humane  rulers. 
Improvement  to  the  inventions  of  our  country. 
Improvement  to  our  arts,  and  invention  to  our  artists. 
May  the  sword  of  Justice  be  swayed  by  the  hand  of  Mercy. 
May  the  love  of  country  always  prevail. 
May  St.  George's  Channel  be  the  only  difference  ever  known 
between  England  and  Ireland. 

May  the  eagles  of  the  Continent  never  build  their  nests  in 
this  little  island. 

May  British  valour  shine  when  every  other  light  is  out. 
May  Britons,  when  they  do  strike,  strike  home. 

May  the  populace  of  our  country  be  remarkable  for  their 
loyalty  and  domestic  happiness. 

May  our  sons  be  honest  and  fair,  and  our  daughters  modest 
and  fair. 

May  every  Briton's  hand  be  ever  hostile  to  tyranny. 

May  the  annals  of  Great  Britain's  history  be  unstained  with 
crime  and  unpolluted  with  bloody  deeds. 

May  our  jurors  ever  possess  sufficient  courage  to  uphold  their 
verdict. 

May  every  Briton  manfully  withstand  corruption. 
May  we  never  be  afraid  to  die  for  our  country. 
Our  wives,  homes,  country,  and  Queen. 

May  the  health  of  our  sovereign  keep  pace  with  the  wishes  of 
her  people. 

May  every  Briton  manfully  withstand  tyranny. 
May  the  glory  of  Britain  never  cease  to  shine. 
May  the  honours  of  our  nobility  be  without  stain. 
May  Britons  be  invincible  by  united  force. 

May  the  olive  of  peace  renovate  the  sinking  fund  of  the  Bri- 
tish nation. 


822  TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS. 

May  the  throne  and  the  altar  never  want  standing  armies  to 

back  them. 
May  Britons  secure  their  conquests  by  clemency. 

May  we  as  citizens  be  free  without  faction,  and  as  subjects 
loyal  without  servility. 

May  loyalty  flourish  for  ever. 

May  liberty  ever  find  an  altar  in  Britain  surrounded  by  de- 
voted worshippers. 

May  the  British  bull  never  be  cowed. 
May  our  hearts  ever  be  possessed  with  the  love  of  country. 
May  the  British  soil  alone  produce  freedom's  sons. 
May  the  brave  never  want  protection. 

May  sovereigns  and  subjects  reign  in  each  other's  hearts  by 
love. 

May  we  ever  honestly  uphold  our  rights. 

May  we  never  cease  to  deserve  well  of  country. 

May  Britons  ever  defend,  with  bold  unflinching  hand, 
Their  throne,  their  altar,  and  their  native  land. 

May  the  liberties  of  the  people  be  immortal. 
May  the  heart  of  an  Englishman  ever  be  Liberty  Hall. 
May  the  brow  of  the  brave  be  adorned  by  the  hand  of  beauty. 
May  we  never  find  danger  lurking  on  the  borders  of  security. 
May  the  laurels  of  Great  Britain  never  be  blighted. 

May  all  mankind  make  free  to  enjoy  the  blessings  of  liberty, 
but  never  take  the  liberty  to  subvert  the  principles  of 
freedom. 

May  Britannia's  hand  ever  be  armed  with  the  bolts  of  Jove. 

May  the  ensign  of  loyalty  float  over  us — the  jack  of  pure 
patriotism  lead  us — and  may  the  pendant  of  every  British 
man-of-war  serve  as  a  cat-o'-uine-tails  to  whip  our  enemies 
with. 

May  England's  name  and  England's  fame  stand  for  ever  pure, 
great  and  free. 

May  every  true  Briton  be  possessed  of  peace,  plenty,  and 
content. 


TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS.  223 

May  every  Briton  leave  his  native  land  at  honour's  call, 
To  fight,  to  conquer,  or,  like  Wolfe,  to  fall. 

May  every  Briton  act  the  patriot's  part. 

May  victory  spin  the  robe  of  glory  for  the  brave,  and  fame 
enrol  his  deeds. 

May  the  laws  never  be  misconstrued. 

May  the  weight  of  our  taxes  never  bend  the  back  of  our 
credit. 

May  increasing  success  crown  the  island  of  traders, 
And  its  shores  prove  the  grave  of  all  foreign  invaders. 


MASONIC. 

May  every  worthy  brother  who  is  willing  to  work  and  labour 
through  the  day,  be  happy  at  night  with  his  friend,  his 
love,  and  a  cheerful  glass. 

May  all  freemasons  be  enabled  to  act  in  a  strict  conformity  to 
the  rules  of  their  order. 

May  our  actions  as  masons  be  properly  squared. 

May  masonry  flourish  until  nature  expire, 

And  its  glories  ne'er  fade  till  the  world  is  on  fire. 

The  female  friends  of  freemasons. 

May  the  brethren  of  our  glorious  craft  be  ever  distinguished 
in  the  world  by  their  regular  lives,  more  than  by  their 
gloves  and  aprons. 

May  concord,  peace,  and  harmony  subsist  in  all  regular 
lodges,  and  always  distinguish  freemasons. 

May  masonry  prove  as  universal  as  it  is  honourable  and 
useful. 

May  every  brother  learn  to  live  within  the  compass,  and 
watch  upon  the  square. 

May  the  lodges  in  this  place  be  distinguished  for  love,  peace, 
and  harmony. 

AH  noblemen  and  right  worshipful  brothers  who  have  been 
grand  masters. 


224  TOASTS  AND  SENTlAfENTS. 

May  peace,  harmony,  and  concord  subsist  among  freemasons, 
and  may  every  idle  dispute  and  frivolous  distinction  to 
buried  in  oblivion. 

All  regular  lodges. 

All  the  friends  of  the  craft. 

As  we  meet  upon  the  level,  may  we  part  upon  the  square. 

All  faithful  and  true  brothers. 

All  brothers  who  have  been  grand  masters. 

Every  brother  who  keeps  the  key  of  knowledge  from  in- 
truders, but  cheerfully  gives  it  to  a  worthy  brother. 

Every  brother  who  maintains  a  consistency  in  love  and  sin- 
cerity in  friendship. 

Every  worthy  brother  who  was  at  first  duly  prepared,  and 
whose  heart  still  retains  an  awful  regard  to  the  three  great 
lights  of  masonry. 

Golden  eggs  to  every  brother,  and  goldfinches  to  our  lodges. 
Honour  and  influence  to  every  public-spirited  brother. 
All  freeborn  sons  of  the  ancient  and  honourable  craft 

May  the  square,  plumb-line,  and  level  regulate  the  conduct 
of  every  brother. 

May  the  morning  have  no  occasion  to  censure  the  night  spent 
by  freemasons. 

May  the  hearts  of  freemasons  agree,  although  their  heads 
should  differ. 

May  every  mason  participate  in  the  happiness  of  a  brother. 
May  every  brother  have  a  heart  to  feel  and  a  hand  to  give. 

May  discord,  party  rage,  and  insolence  be  for  ever  rooted  out 
from  among  masons. 

May  covetous  cares  be  unknown  to  freemasons. 

May  all  freemasons  go  hand  in  hand  in  the  road  of  virtue. 

May  we  be  more  ready  to  correct  our  own  faults  than  to 
publish  the  errors  of  a  brother. 

May  the  prospect  of  riches  never  induce  a  mason  to  do  that 
which  is  repugnant  to  virtue. 

May  unity  and  love  be  ever  stamped  upon,  the  masoa'l 
mind, 


TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS.  22$ 

May  no  freemason  desire  plenty  but  with  the  benevolent  view 
to  relieve  the  indigent. 

May  no  freemason  wish  for  more  liberty  than  constitutes 
happiness,  nor  more  freedom  than  tends  to  the  public 
good. 

May  the  deformity  of  vice  in  other  men  teach  a  mason  to 
abhor  it  in  himself. 

May  the  cares  which  haunt  the  heart  of  the  covetous  be  un- 
known to  the  freemason. 

Prosperity  to  masons  and  masonry 

Relief  to  all  indigent  brethren. 

To  the  secret  and  silent. 

The  great  lodge  of  England. 

The  great  lodge  of  Scotland. 

To  the  memory  of  him  who  first  planted  the  vine, 

To  the  perpetual  honour  of  freemasons. 

The  masters  and  wardens  of  all  regular  lodges. 

To  all  masons  who  walk  by  the  line. 

To  the  memory  of  the  Tyrian  artist. 

May  all  freemasons  live  in  love  and  die  in  peace, 

May  love  animate  the  heart  of  every  mason. 

May  all  freemasons  ever  taste  and  relish  the  sweets  of  freedom. 


MILITARY. 

May  our  commanders  have  the  eye  of  a  Hawke  and  the  heart 

of  a  Wolfe. 

To  the  memory  of  Wellington  and  all  like  him. 
Chelsea  Hospital  and  its  supporters. 

To  the  memory  of  Sir  Thomas  Picton,  and  all  our  brave 
countrymen  who  fell  at  Waterloo. 

May  every  British  officer  possess  Wolfe's  conduct  and  courage, 
but  not  meet  with  his  fate. 

May  the  enemy's  flag  be  surmounted  by  the  British  standard. 

15 


226  TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS. 

May  the  arms  borne  by  a  soldier  never  be  used  in  a  bad 

cause. 
May  British  soldiers  fight  to  protect,  and  conquer  to  save. 

May  the  gifts  of  fortune  never  cause  us  to  steer  out  of  our 
latitude. 

May  the  brow  of  the  brave  never  want  a  wreath  of  laurel  to 
adorn  it. 

May  the  army  of  Great  Britain  never  feel  dismayed  at  its 
enemies. 

May  the  brave  soldier  who  never  turned  his  back  to  the 
enemy  never  have  a  friend  turn  his  back  to  him. 

May  bronze  and  medals  not  be  the  only  reward  of  the  brave. 

May  no  rotten  members  infect  the  whole  corps. 

May  the  laurels  of  Great  Britain  never  be  blighted. 

May  all  weapons  of  war  be  used  for  warlike  purposes  only. 

May  the  soldier  never  fall  a  sacrifice  but  to  glory. 

To  the  memory  of  Sir  John  Moore,  and  all  the  brave  fellows 
who  fell  with  him  in  the  action  of  Corunna  ;  and  may  their 
gallant  conduct  stimulate  every  British  soldier  in  the  hour 
of  danger. 

To  the  memory  of  all  brave  soldiers  who  fall  in  defence  of 
their  country. 

The  mem»ry  of  a  great  general  and  splendid  genius,  though 
ambitious  and  tyrannic — Napoleon  Bonaparte. 


NAVAL. 

May  our  iron-clads  do  as  much  as  our  brave  old  oaks. 
May  John  Bull  ever  be  commander-in-chief  of  the  ocean. 

May  Old  England,  a  world  within  herself,  reign  safe  for  ever 
in  her  floating  towers. 

To  the  memory  of  Nelson,  and  all  like  him. 
Greenwich  Hospital  and  its  supporters. 

May  every  British  seaman  fight  bravely  and  be  rewarded 
honourably. 


TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS.  227 

May  rudders  govern  and  ships  obey. 

May  no  true  son  of  Neptune  ever  flinch  from  his  gun. 

May  no  son  of  the  ocean  ever  be  devoured  by  his  mother. 

May  our  navy  never  know  defeat  but  by  name. 

May  our  sailors  for  ever  prove  lords  of  the  main. 

May  the  deeds  never  be  forgot  that  were  done  at  Trafalgar 
and  Waterloo. 

May  the  cause  of  British  liberty  ever  be  defended  by  her 
hearts  of  oak. 

May  our  officers  and  tars  be  valiant  and  brave. 

Success  to  the  fair  for  manning  the  navy. 

May  gales  of  prosperity  waft  us  to  the  port  of  happiness. 

May  our  seamen,  from  the  captain  to  the  cabin-boy,  be  like 
our  ships,  hearts  of  oak. 

More  hard  ships  for  Britain,  and  less  to  her  enemies. 
May  the  pilot  of  reason  guide  us  to  the  harbour  of  rest. 

May  the  memory  of  the  noble  Nelson  inspire  every  seaman 
to  do  his  duty. 

May  the  tar  who  loses  one  eye  in  defence  of  his  country, 
never  see  distress  with  the  other. 

Should  the  French  come  to  Dover,  may  they  mis-Deal  in 
their  landing. 

To  Nelson's  memory  here's  a  health, 

And  to  his  gallant  tars, 
And  may  our  British  seamen  bold 

Despise  both  wounds  and  scars  ; 
Make  France  and  Spain, 
And  all  the  main, 

And  all  their  foes  to  know, 
Britons  reign  o'er  the  main 

While  the  stormy  winds  do  blow. 

The  British  navy,  the  world's  check-string. 

The  heart  of  a  sailor  :  may  it  ^  like  heart  of  oak. 

Though  our  bold  tars  are  fortune's  sport,  may  they  ever  H 
fortune's  care. 

The  flag  of  England  :  may  it  ever  brave  the  battle  and  the 
breeze. 

15—2 


93»  TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS. 

The  sea,  the  rough  sea,  the  open  sea  :  may  our  lives  be  spent 
upon  it. 

The  sea,  the  sleepless  guardian  of  the  world. 

The  memory  of  Lord  Howe  and  the  glorious  1st  of  June. 

Safe  arrivals  to  our  homeward  and  outward-bound  fleets. 


RELIGIOUS. 

The  friends  of  religion,  liberty,  and  science  in  every  part  of 

the  globe: 
The  honest  reformers  of  our  laws  and  religion. 

The  clergy  of  the  United  Kingdom  who  have  always  supported 
the  good  cause  :  may  they  continue  to  do  so. 

The  Pulpit,  the  Bar,  and  the  Throne. 

The  friends  of  religious  toleration,  whether  they  are  withia  or 
without  the  Establishment. 


SENTIMENTAL. 

May  we  ever  have  a  sufficiency  for  ourselves,  and  a  trifle  to 
spare  for  our  friends. 

May  we  always  look  forward  to  better  times,  but  never  be 
discontented  with  the  present. 

May  the  miseries  of  war  never  more  have  existence  in  the 
world. 

May  the  wing  of  friendship  never  moult  a  feather. 

May  our  artists  never  be  forced  into  artifice  to  gain  applause 
and  fortune. 

May  solid  honour  soon  take  place  of  seeming  religion. 
May  our  thoughts  never  mislead  our  judgment. 
May  filial  piety  ever  be  the  result  of  a  religious  education. 
May  rea'.  merit  meet  reward,  and  pretension  its  punishment 


TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS.  229 

May  prosperity  never  make  us  arrogant,  nor  adversity  mean. 
May  we  live  happy  and  die  in  peace  with  all  mankind. 
May  the  unsuspecting  man  never  be  deceived. 

May  noise  and  nonsense  be  ever  banished  from  social  com- 
pany. 

May  the  faults  of  our  neighbours  be  dim  and  their  virtues 
glaring. 

May  industry  always  be  the  favourite  of  Fortune. 
May  the  rich  be  charitable  and  the  poor  grateful. 

May  the  misfortunes  of  others  be  always  examined  at  the  chart 
of  our  own  conduct. 

May  we  never  be  so  base  as  to  envy  the  happiness  of  ar-other. 
May  we  live  to  learn,  and  learn  to  live  well. 

May  we  be  more  ready  to  correct  our  own  faults  than  to  pub- 
lish the  faults  of  others. 

May  we  never  hurt  our  neighbour's  peace  by  the  desire  of  ap- 
pearing witty. 

Modesty  in  our  discourses,  moderation  in  our  wishes,  and 
mutuality  in  our  affections. 

May  we  never  envy  those  who  are  happy,  but  strive  to  imitate 
them. 

May  we  derive  amusement  from  business  and  improvement 
from  pleasure. 

May  our  faults  be  written  on  the  sea-shore,  and  every  good 
action  prove  a  wave  to  wash  them  out. 

May  virtue  find  fortune  always  an  attendant. 

May  we  never  repine  at  our  condition,  nor  be  depressed  by 
poverty. 

May  reality  strengthen  the  joys  of  imagination. 

May  we  never  make  a  sword  of  our  tongue  to  wound  a  good 
man's  reputation. 

May  our  distinguishing  mark  be  merit  rather  than  money. 
A  total  abolition  of  the  slave  trade. 
A  heart  to  glow  for  others'  good. 
\  heart  to  feel  and  a  heart  to  give. 


230  TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS, 

A  period  to  the  sorrows  of  an  ingenuous  mind. 

A  health  to  our  sweethearts,  our  friends,  and  our  wives  : 
May  fortune  smile  on  them  the  rest  of  their  lives. 

May  genius  and  merit  never  want  a  friend. 

Adam's  ale  :  and  may  so  pure  an  element  be  always  at  hand. 

All  that  gives  us  pleasure. 

All  our  wants  and  wishes. 

All  our  absent  friends  on  land  and  sea. 

An  honest  guide  and  a  good  pilot. 

As  we  bind  so  may  we  find. 

As  we  travel  through  life  may  we  live  well  on  the  road. 

May  truth  and  liberty  prevail  throughout  the  world. 

May  we  never  engage  in  a  bad  cause,  and  never  fly  from  a 
good  one. 

May  domestic  slavery  be  abolished  throughout  the  world. 

May  the  fruits  of  England's  soil  never  be  denied  to  her  chil- 
dren. 


SPORTING. 

May  the  lovers  of  the  chase  never  want  the  comforts  of  life. 
May  every  fox-hunter  be  well  mounted. 

May  we  always  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  shooting,  and  succeed 
with  foul  and  fair. 

The  staunch  hound  that  never  spends  tongue  but  where  he 
ought. 

The  gallant  huntsman  that  plunges  into  the  deep  in  pursuit  of 
his  game.    • 

The  clear-sighted  sportsman  that  sees  his  game  with  one  eye. 
The  steady  sportsman  that  always  brings  down  his  game. 
The  beagle  that  runs  by  nose  and  not  by  sight. 
The  jolly  sportsman  that  never  beats  about  the  bush. 


TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS.  231 

The  huntsman's  pleasures— the  field  in  the  morning  and  the 
bottle  at  night. 

The  joys  of  angling. 

The  jolly  sportsman  who  enters  the  covert  without  being  bit 
by  the  fox. 

May  the  pleasures  of  sportsmen  never  know  an  end. 

May  the  jolly  fox-hunter  never  want  freedom  of  soul  nor 
liberality  of  heart. 

May  we  always  gain  fresh  vigour  from  the  joys  of  the  chase. 
May  the  sportsman's  day  be  spent  in  pleasure. 

May  strength  the  sportsman's  nerves  in  vigour  brace  J 
May  cruelty  ne'er  stain  with  foul  disgrace 
The  well-earned  pleasures  of  the  chase. 

May  the  love  of  the  chase  never  interrupt  our  attention  of  the 
welfare  of  the  country. 

May  every  sport  prove  as  innocent  as  that  of  the  field. 

May  the  bows  of  all  British  bowmen  be  strong,  their  strings 
sound,  and  may  their  arrows  fly  straight  to  the  mark. 

May  we  always  run  the  game  breast  high. 

May  those  who  love  the  crack   of  the  whip  never  want  a 
brush  to  pursue. 

May  the  heart  of  a  sportsman  never  know  affliction  but  by 
name. 


MISCELLANEOUS. 

The  three  A's ! 

Abundance,  abstinence,  and  annihilation. 
Abundance  to  the  poor. 
Abstinence  to  the  intemperate. 
Annihilation  to  the  wicked. 

The  three  B's : 

Bachelors,  banns,  and  buns. 
Bachelors,  for  the  maidens. 
Banns  for  the  bachelors. 
Buns  after  the  consummation  of  the  bannfc 


232  TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS. 

The  three  C's  : 

Cheerfulness,  content,  and  competency. 
Cheerfulness  in  our  cups. 
Content  in  our  minds. 
Competency  in  our  pockets. 

The  three  F's : 

Firmness,  freedom,  and  fortitude. 
Firmness  in  the  senate. 
Freedom  on  the  land. 
Fortitude  on  the  waves. 

The  three  F's : 

Friendship,  feeling,  and  fidelity. 
Friendship  without  interest. 
Feeling  to  our  enemies. 
Fidelity  to  our  friends. 

The  three  F's  :  Fat,  fair,  and  forty. 

The  three  generals  in  peace : 
General  peace. 
General  plenty. 
General  satisfaction, 

The  three  generals  in  power : 
General  employment. 
General  industry. 
General  comfort. 

The  three  H's : 

Health,  honour,  and  happiness. 
Health  to  all  the  world. 
Honour  to  those  who  seek  for  it* 
Happiness  in  our  homes. 

The  three  L's : 
Love,  life,  and  liberty. 
Love  pure. 
Life  long. 
Liberty  boundless. 

The  three  M's : 

Mirth,  music,  and  moderation. 
Mirth  at  every  board. 
Music  in  all  instruments. 
Moderation  in  our  desires. 

The  three  golden  balls  of  civilization  t 
Industry,  commerce,  and  wealth. 


70ASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS,  833 

The  three  companions  of  beauty  : 
Modesty,  love,  and  constancy. 

The  three  blessings  of  this  life  : 

Health,  wealth,  and  a  good  conscience. 

The  four  comforts  of  this  life  : 
Love,  liberty,  health,  and  a  contented  mind. 

The  three  spirits  that  have  no  souls  : 
Brandy,  rum,  and  gin. 

The  three  L's  ; 

Love,  loyalty,  and  length  of  days. 

The  three  M's ; 

Modesty,  moderation,  and  mutuality. 
Modesty  in  our  discourse. 
Moderation  in  our  wishes. 
Mutuality  in  our  affection. 

THE  MUSICIAN'S  TOAST. — May  a  crotchet  in  the  head  never 

bar  the  utterance  of  good  notes. 
May  the  lovers  of  harmony  never  be  in  want  of  a  note,  and  its 

enemies  die  in  a  common  chord. 

THE  SURGEON'S  TOAST. — The  man  that  bleeds  for  hi* 
country. 

THE  WAITER'S  TOAST. — The  clever  waiter  who  puts  the 
cork  in  first  and  the  liquor  afterwards. 

THE  GLAZIER'S  TOAST. — The  praiseworthy  glazier  who  takes 
panes  to  see  his  way  through  life. 

THE  GREENGROCER'S  TOAST. — May  we  spring  up  like  vege- 
tables, have  turnip  noses,  radish  cheeks,  and  carroty  hair-, 
and  may  our  hearts  never  be  hard  like  those  of  cabbages, 
nor  may  we  be  rotten  at  the  core. 

THE  PAINTER'S  TOAST. — When  we  work  in  the  wet  may  we 
never  want  for  driers, 

THE  TALLOW  CHANDLER'S  TOAST. — May  we  make  light  of 
our  misfortunes,  melt  the  fair  when  we  press  them,  and 
make  our  foes  wax  warm  in  our  favour. 

THE  HATTER'S  TOAST. — When  the  rogue  naps  it,  may  the 
lesson  \3&felt, 

THE  TAILOR'S  TOAST.— May  we  always  sheer  out  of  a  law 
guit,  and  by  so  doing  cut  bad  company. 


234  TOASTS  AND  SENTIMENTS. 

THE  BAKER'S  TOAST. — May  we  never  be  done  so  much  as 

to  make  us  crusty. 
THE  LAWYER'S  TOAST. — May  the  depth  of  our  potations 

never  cause  us  to  let  judgment  go  by  default. 


LATIN. 

Adfinem  estofidelis.     Be  faithful  to  the  end. 

Amor  patritB.     The  love  of  our  country. 

Dilige  amitos.     Love  your  friends. 

Dum  vivirmts  vivamus.     Let  us  live  while  we  live. 

Esto  perpetiia.     Be  thou  perpetual. 

Palmam  qui  mernit  ferate. 

Let  him  who  has  won  bear  the  palm. 

Pro  arts  dfo:is.     For  our  altars  and  fireside. 

Vox  populi  vox  Dd. 
The  voice  of  the  people  is  the  voice  of  God* 


THE  END. 


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What  will  He  Do  with  It  ?    Vol.  I. 

.    VoL  B. 

Zanoni. 


Price  2s.  each. 


Captain  Marryat. 

Dog  Fiend  ;  or.  Snarley  Yow. 
Frank   Mildmay ;   or,   The    Naval 

Officer. 

Jacob  FaithfiiL 
Japhet  in  Search  of  a  Father. 
King's  Own. 
Masterman  Ready. 
Mr.  Midshipman  Easy. 
Monsieur  Violet's  Adventures. 
Newton  Forster. 
Olla  Podrida. 
Pacha  of  Many  Tales. 
Percival  Keene.     With  Memoirs  of 

Captain  Marryat. 
Peter  Simple. 
Phantom  Ship. 
The  Pirate;    The  Three  Cutters. 

Memoir  of  the  Author. 
Poacher. 
Poor  Jack. 
Rattlin  the  Reefer. 
Valerie :  An  Autobiography. 

Helen  Mathers. 

The  Story  of  a  Sin, 
/ock  o'  Hazelgreen. 
Cherry  Ripe. 
My  Lady  Greensleevet. 
Eyre's  Acquittal. 

W.  E.  Maxwell. 

Stories  of  Waterloo. 
Brian  O'Linn  j   or,  Luck's  Every- 
thing. 

Captain  Blake. 
Hector  O'Halloran. 
Captain  O'Sullivan. 
Stories  of  the  Peninsular  War. 
Flood  and  Field. 

B.   Monuteney-Jephson. 

Tom  Bullkley  of  Lissington. 
The  Girl  He  Left  Behind  Him. 
A  Pink  Wedding. 
The  Roll  of  the  Drum. 
With  the  Colours. 
The  Red  Rag.    — • 


W.  J.  Nelson  Veal*. 
The  Pride  of  the  Mess. 
Will  Watch. 
The  Port  Admiral 
The  Naval  Surgeon. 

Jane  Porter. 
Scottish  Chiefs. 
Thaddeus  of  Warsaw. 

Mrs.  Campbell  Fraed. 

Affinities. 

Zero. 

Moloch. 

The  Head  Station. 

An  Australian  Heroine. 

Ariane. 

Mrs.  Sadcllff*. 
The  Mysteries  of  Udolpho. 
Romance  —  Italian  —  Udolpho,    tt 
One  Volume. 

Angus  Beach. 
Clement  Lorimer. 

Mayne  Held. 
Afloat  in    the    Forest.      Perils  in 

South  American  Inland  Waters. 
Boy   Hunters ;   or,    Adventures  in 

Search  of  a  White  Buffalo. 
Boy  Tar ;    or,  A  Voyage  in   the 

Dark. 
Bosh    Boys ;    or,    Adventures    in 

Southern  Africa. 
Cliff  Climbers  ;  A  Sequel  to  "  Plant 

Hunters." 
Desert  Home  :  or,  The  Adventures 

of  a  Lost  Family  in  the  Wilder. 

ness. 

Fatal  Cord :  Falcon  Rover. 
Forest  Exiles  ;  or,  Perils  Amid  the 

Wilds  of  the  Amazon. 
Giraffe    Hunters :     A     Sequel    to 

"The  Bush  Boys." 
Guerilla  Chief. 
Half- Blood  :  A  Tale  of  the  Flowery 

Land:  or.  Oceok. 


Price  2s.  each. 


MAYNE  REII>— -continued. 

Headless  Horseman  :  A  Strange 
Tale  of  Texas. 

Hunters'  Feast ;  or,  Conversations 
Around  the  Camp- Fire. 

Lost  Lenore  :  or,  The  Adventures 
of  a  Rolling  Stone. 

Maroon  :  Doings  in  Jamaica. 

Ocerin  Waifs :  A  Sequel  to  "Ran 
Away  to  Sea." 

Plant  Hunters ;  or,  Adventures 
Among  the  Himalaya  Moun- 
tains. 

Quadroon  ;  or,  Adventures  in  the 
Far  West. 

Ran  Away  to  Sea  :  A  Boy's  Adven- 
tures, written  by  Himself. 

Rifle  Rangers ;  or,  Adventures  in 
Southern  Mexico. 

Scalp  Hunters :  A  Romance  of 
Northern  Mexico. 

Tiger  Hunter. 

War  Trail ;  or,  The  Hunt  of  the 
Wild  Horse. 

White  Chief :  a  Legend  of  Northern 
Mexico. 

White  Gauntlet:  The  Days  of 
Cromwell. 

White  Squaw  :  The  Yellow  Chief. 

Wild  Huntress. 

Wood  Rangers. 

Young  Yagers :  A  Narrative  of 
Hunting  Adventures  in  South- 
ern Africa. 


Richardson 

Clarissa  Harlowe. 

Pamela. 

Sir  Charles  Grandison. 


Sir  Walter  Scott. 

Abbot. 

Anne  of  Geierstein. 
Antiquary. 

Betrothed  ;  Highland  Widow 
Black  Dwarf;  A  Legend  of  Mont- 
rose. 
Bride  of  Lammcrraoor. 


Sir  WALTER  SCOTT— -tonind. 

Count  Robert  of  Paris. 

Fair  Maid  of  Perth. 

Fortunes  of  NigeL 

Guy  Mannering. 

Heart  of  Midlothian 

Ivanhoe. 

Kenil  worth. 

Monastery. 

Old  Mortality. 

Peveril  of  the  Peak. 

Pirate. 

Quentin  Durward. 

Redgauntlet. 

Rob  Roy. 

St.  Ronan's  WelL 

Surgeon's      Daughter ;     Castlt 

Dangerous  ;  Glossary. 
Talisman  j  Two  Drovers,  etc. 
Waverley. 
Woodstock. 

Albert  Smith. 

Mr.  Ledbury's  Adventures, 
Scattergood  Family. 
Christopher  Tadpole. 
The  Pottleton  Legacy. 


Smollett. 

Roderick  Random. 
Humphry  Clinker. 
Peregrine  Pickle. 


Eugene  Sue. 

The  Wandering  Jew. 
The  Mysteries  of  Paris. 


Annie  Thomas. 
False  Colours. 

Mrs.  Trollop*. 
Petticoat  Government, 
The  Widow  Barnaby. 
Barnabys  in  America. 
The  Ward. 


Price  2s.  each. 


Samuel  Warren. 
Ten  Thousand  a  Year. 
The  Diary  of  a  late  Physician. 

Author  of  "  Whitefriars." 

WliitehalL 

Owen  Tudor. 

The  Maid  of  Orleans. 

Westminster  Abbey. 

Edmund  Yates. 

Running  the  Gauntlet. 

Kissing  the  Rod. 

Rock  Ahead. 

Black  Sheep. 

A  Righted  Wrong. 

The  Yellow  Flag. 

The  Impending  Sword. 

Broken  to  Harness. 

Two  by  Tricks. 

Dr.  Wainwright's  Patients. 

Wrecked  in  Port. 

Nobody's  Fortune. 

Various  Authors. 

forlogh  O'Brien.  LE  FANU. 

The  Hour  and  the  Man. 

Miss  MARTINEAU. 
Prairie  Bird.  Sir  C.  MURRAY. 

Salathiel.  Dr.  CROLV. 

The  Bashful  Irishman. 
The  Curate  and  the  Rector. 

E.  STRUTT. 
Greatest  Plague  of  Life,  MAYHEW, 

Cruikshank's  Plates. 
Hajji  Baba  of  Ispahan.       MORIER. 
Whom  to  Marry,  with  Cruikshank's 

Plates. 

Vidocq,  the  French  Police  Spy. 
Gilderoy.     (Cloth.)  Fims. 

Singleton  Fontenoy.         HAN  NAY. 
Gideon  Giles  the  Roper.  T.MILLER. 


VARIOUS  AUTHORS—  contnd. 
The  Clives  of  Burcot. 

HESBA  STRETTOH. 
Nick  of  the  Woods. 
The  Smuggler.  JOHN  BANIM 

Kaloolah.  MAYO 

Mornings    at    Bow    Street,    will 

Cruikshank's  Plates. 
Miss  Forrester.     Mrs.  EDWARDES. 
Recommended  to  Mercy. 
Helen.  Miss  EDGE  WORTH 

Rodenhurst.  E.  M.  STEWART 

Tom  Cringle's  Log. 

MICHAEL  SCOTT 
Private  Life  of  an  Eastern  King. 
Romance  of  Military  Life. 
Robber  of  the  Rhine.        RITCHIE. 
The  Polish  Lancer.        REELSTAB. 
Jasper  Lyle.  Mrs.  WARD. 

Flower  of  the  Forest.       Sr.  JOHN. 
The  Cruise  of  the  "  Midge." 

MICHAEL  SCOTT. 
The  Piodigal  Daughter. 

MARK  HOPE. 
The  Children  of  the  Abbey. 

R.  M.  ROCHE. 

Too  Fast  to  Last.       JOHN  MILLS. 
Tales  of  the  Slave  Squadron. 
Olivia  Raleigh.     W.  W.  F.  SINGE. 
The  Adventures  of  Robinson  Play- 
fellow. 

The  Doctor's  Family. 
Uncle  Chesterton's  Heir. 

Madame  COLOMB. 
Here  Below.  J.  A.  SCOFIELD. 

A  Woman's  Glory. 
Unspotted  from  the  World. 
The  Tale  of  a  Horse. 

BLINKHOOLIE. 

Bridget.  Mrs.  BETHAM  EDWARDS. 
Creatures  of  Clay. 

Lady  VIOLET  GREVILLE. 
Mr.  Potter  of  "Texas. 

A.  C.  GUNTER. 


AMERICAN  LIBRARY,  at  2s.  each,  boards. 


The  Gilded  Age.        MARK  TWAIN 

and  C.  D.  WARNER. 

Roughing    It,    and    Innocents    at 

Home.  MARK  TWAIN. 

Marjorie  Daw.        T.  B.  ALDRICH, 


Innocents   Abroad,   and   the    New 
Pilgrim's  Progress.  MARK  TWAIN. 
Other  People's  Children. 

Author  of  "  Helen's  Babie*" 


ROUTLEDGE'S  FLORIN  NOVELS. 

Strongly  bound  in  CLOTH,    cut   edges  j    well  suited  for  NAVAI, 
MILITARY,  and  PUBLIC  LIBRARIES,  crown  8vo,  2a.  each. 


W.  H.  Ainsworta. 
The  Tower  of  London. 
Old  St.  Paul's. 
Windsor  Castle. 
Miser's  Daughter. 
Star  Chamber. 
Rookwood. 
St.  James's. 
Flitch  of  Bacon. 
Guy  Fawkes. 
Lancashire  Witchef* 
Crichton. 
Tack  Sheppard. 
Spendthrift. 
Boscobel. 

Ovingdean  Grange. 
Mervyn  Clitheroe. 
Auriol. 
Stanley  Brereton. 

Jane  Atsstoa. 
Pride  and  Prejudice. 
Sense  and  Sensibility. 
Mansfield  Park. 
Emma. 
Northanger  Abbey,  and  Persuasion. 

Bertha  H.  Bnxton. 

Fetterless. 

Great  Grenfell  Gardens. 

Henry  Cockton. 

Valentine  Vox. 
Sylvester  Sound. 

Feiiimore  Cooper. 
The  Deerslayer. 
The  Last  of  the  Mohicans. 
The  Pathfinder. 
The  Pioneers. 
The  Prairie. 

M.  S  Cummin*. 
The  lamplighter. 


Charles  Dickens. 
Sketches  by  "  Boz." 
Nicholas  Nickleby. 
Olivor  Twist. 
Barnaby  Rudge. 
Old  Curiosity  Shop. 
Dombey  and  Son. 

Alexandre  Dumas. 
In  the  order  of  the  Sequtls. 
The  Three  Musketeers. 
Twenty  Years  After. 

Marguerite  de  Valois. 
Chicot,  the  Jester. 
Forty-five  Guardsmen. 

The  Conspirators. 

The  Regent's  Daughter. 

Memoirs  of  a  Physician. 
The  Queen's  Necklace. 
Taking  the  Bastile. 
The  Countess  de  Charny. 

Monte  Cristo. 

Miss  Ferrier. 

Marriage. 

Inheritance. 

Destiny. 

Henry  Fielding, 
Tom  Jones. 
Joseph  Andrews. 
Amelia. 

Frederick  Gerstaecke*, 
The  Feathered  Arrow. 

Judge  Haliburton. 
The  Clockmaker. 

J.  G.  Holland. 
Arthur  Bonnicastle. 


FLORIN  NOVELS,  Cloth. 

(Continued.) 


Rev.  J.  G.  Ingraham. 
The  Prince  of  the  House  of  David. 

John  Lang-. 
The  Ex-Wife. 

George  A.  Lawreno*. 
Guy  Livingstone. 
Anteros. 
Sword  and  Gown. 

diaries  Lever. 
Harry  Lorrequer. 
Charles  O'Malley. 
Jack  Hinton. 
Arthur  O'Leary. 
Con  Cregan. 
Horace  Templeton, 

Samael  Lover. 
Handy  Andy. 
Rory  O'More.     ' 

Lord    Lytton, 

Author's  Copyright  Eevised  Editions 
containing  Prefaces  to  be  fowid 
in  no  other  Edition. 

Pelham. 
Paul  Clifford. 
Eugene  Aram. 
Last  Days  of  PompeiL 
Rienzi. 

Ernest  Maltravers. 
Alice ;  or,  The  Mysteries. 
Night  and  Morning. 
Disowned. 
Devereux. 
Godolphin. 
Last  of  the  Barons. 
Leila ;  Pilgrims  of  the  Rhine, 
Falkland ;  Zicci. 
Zanoni. 
The  Caxtons. 
Harold. 
Lucretia. 

The  Coming  Race. 
A  Strange  Story. 
Kenelm  Chillingly. 
%usanias  ;  and  The  Hwiated  and 
the  Haup>*rs.  v 


Captain.  Marryat. 

Frank  Mildmay. 

Midshipman  Easy. 

Phantom  Ship. 

Peter  Simple. 

The  King's  Own. 

Newton  Forster. 

Jacob  Faithful. 

The  Pacha  of  Many  Tales. 

Japhet  in  Search  of  a  Father. 

Dog  Fiend. 

Poacher. 

Percival  Keene 

Monsieur  Violet. 

Rattlin,  the  Reefer. 

Valerie. 

Pirate ;  Three  Cutters. 

Poor  Jack. 

Masterman  Ready. 

Olla  Podrida. 

Settlers  in  Canada. 

The  Mission  :  Scenes  in  Africa. 


Thomas  Miller. 
Gideon  Giles  the  Roper. 

The  Eon.  C.  A.  Murray. 
The  Prairie  Bird. 

W.  J.  Nelson  N  eale, 

The  Pride  of  the  Mess. 
The  Port  Admiral 

Elizabeth  S.  Phelps. 
The  Story  of  Avis. 

Jane  Porter. 
Scottish  Chiefs. 

Mrs.  Radclifle. 

The  Romance  of  the  Forest. 
The  Mysteries  of  Udolpho. 


FLORIN  NOVELS,  Cloth. 


Captain  Mayne  Reid. 

The  Scalp  Hunters. 
The  Rifle  Rangers. 
The  War  Trail. 
The  White  Chief. 
The  Quadroon. 
The  White  Gauntlet. 
Los'  Lenore. 
The  Hunters'  Feast 
The  Boy  Slaves. 
TheClirt  Climbers. 
The  Giraffe  Hunters. 
The  Ocean  Waifs. 

Samuel  Richardson, 

Clarissa  Harlowe. 

Pamela. 

Sir  Charles  Grandison. 

E.  M.  Roche. 

The  Children  of  the  Abbey, 

Rev.  E.  F.  Roe. 

Barriers  Burned  Away. 
Opening  a  Chestnut  Burr. 
What  can  She  Do  ? 

Michael  Scott. 

Tom  Cringle's  Log. 

The  Cruise  of  the  "  Midge." 

Sir  Walter  Scott. 

With  Steel  Fromtispiece  to  each 

Volume. 
Waverley. 
Guy  Mannering. 
Old  Moitality. 
Heart  of  Midlothian. 
Rob  Roy. 
Ivanhoe. 
The  Antiquary. 
Bride  of  Lammermoor. 
Black  Dwarf  and  Legend  of  Mon- 

trose. 


(Continued. ) 

SIR  WALTER  SCOTT— continued. 

The  Monastery. 

The  Abbot. 

Kenilworth. 

The  Pirate. 

Fortunes  of  Nigel. 

Peveril  of  the  Peak. 

Quentin  Durward. 

St.  Ronan'sWelL 

Redgauntlet. 

Betrothed,  and  Highland  Widow. 

The  Talisman,  and  Two  Drovers. 

Woodstock. 

The  Fair  Maid  of  Perth. 

Anne  of  Geierstein. 

Count  Robert  of  Paris. 

The  Surgeon's  Daughter. 

Smollett. 

Roderick  Random. 
Humphry  Clinker. 
Peregrine  Pickle. 

Mrs.  H.  B.   Stow*. 
Uncle  Tom's  Cabin. 

Eugene  Sue. 

Wandering  Jew. 
Mysteries  of  Paris. 

Samuel  Warren. 
Ten  Thousand  a  Year. 


The  Diary  of  a  Late  Physician. 

Elizabeth  WetherelL 

The  Wide,  Wide  World. 

Queechy. 

The  Old  Helmet. 


Various  Authors. 

Humorous  American  Gems. 
Nobody's  Fortune.  E.  YATES. 

Marjorie  Daw.         T.  B.  ALDRICH. 


Price  Is.  each. 
RAILWAY  LIBRARY  NOVELa 

In  Picture  Paper  Covers, 


W.  E.   A  ins  worth.       is.  paper 
covers. 

Auriol. 
Boscobel. 
Crichton. 
Flitch  of  Bacon. 
Guy  Fawkes. 
Tack  Sheppard. 
James  II. 

Lancashire  Witchas 
Mervyn  Clitheroe. 
Miser's  Daughter. 
Old  St  Paul's. 
Ovingdean  Grange 
Rookwood. 
Spendthrift. 
Star  Chamber. 
St.  James's. 
Tower  of  London. 
Windsor  Castle. 


Mrs.  F.  H,  Burnett,     is.,  paper 
covers. 

Dolly. 

Kathleen. 

Our  Neighbour  Opposite. 

Miss  Crespigny. 

Lindsay's  Luck. 

The  Tide  on  the  Moaning  Bar. 


William  Carleton. 
covers. 

Jane  Sinclair. 
The  Clarionet. 
The  Tithe  Proctor. 
The  Emigrants. 
Fardarougha. 


is.,   paper 


J.  Fenimore  Cooper.    IS.,  papes 
covers. 

Afloat  and  Ashore:   A  Sequel  tc 

Miles  Wallingford. 
Borderers  ;  or,  The  Heathcotes. 
Bravo  :  A  Tale  of  Venice. 
Deerslayer ;  or,  The  First  War  Path, 
Eve    Effingham  :      A     Sequel     U 

"Homeward  Bound.*' 
Headsman. 
Heidenmauer :    A  Legend  of  the 

Rhine. 

Homeward  Bound ;  or,  The  Chase. 
Last  of  the  Mohicans. 
Lionel  Lincoln  ;  or,  The  Leaguer 

of  Boston. 
Miles  Wallingford ;  or,  Lucy  Har. 

dinge. 

Ned  Myers ;  or,  Life  before  the  Mast. 
Pioneers ;  or,  The  Sources  of  the 

Susquehanna. 
Red  Rover. 
Satanstoe ;    or,     The     Littlepage 

Manuscripts. 

Sea  Lions ;  or,  The  Lost  Sealers. 
Wyandotte ;  or,  The  Hutted  KnolL 


Alexandra  Dumas, 
covers. 


is.,  paper 


Arranged  in  the  order  of  the  Stqueh, 

The  Three  Musketeers. 
Twenty  Years  After. 


Chicot,  the  Jester. 

The  Fcrtv-nve  Guardsmen. 


Price  Is.  each. 

(Continued.) 


ALEXANDRE  DUMAS— continued. 

The  Conspirators. 

The  Regent's  Daughter. 


The  Queen's  Necklace. 

The  Taking  of  the  Bastile,  a  vols. 

(is.  each.) 
Countess  de  Charny. 


Ascanio. 

Page  of  Duks  of  Savoy. 

Isabel  of  Bavaria. 

Beau  Tancrede. 

Pauline. 

Catherine  Blum. 

Ingenue. 

Chevalier  de  Maison  Rouge. 

Dr.  Basilius. 

The  Twin  Captains. 

Captain  Paul. 

Monte  Cristo,  a  vols.    (is.  each.) 

Nanon. 

The  Black  Tulip. 

Gerald  Griffin,   is.,  paper  covers. 

Munster  Festival. 

The  Rivals. 

The  Colleen  Bawn. 

Nathaniel     Hawthorne.       is., 

paper  covers. 
The  Scarlet  Letter. 
Mosses  from  an  Old  Manse. 
The  House  of  the  Seven  Gables. 

Charles  Lever,  is. ,  paper  covers. 

Harry  Lorrequer. 
Arthur  O'Leary. 
Con  Cretan. 
Charles  6'Malley. 

Lord  Lytton.    is.,  paper  covers, 

or  cloth. 
Alice. 
Caxtons. 
Devereux. 


LORD  LYTTON— continued, 

The  Disowned. 

Ernest  Maltravers. 

Falkland,  etc. 

Godolphin. 

Kenelm  Chillingly. 

Leila,  and  The    Pilgrimi    of    th« 

Rhine. 
Lucretia. 
My  Novel,  Vol.  i. 

Ditto.      Vol.  a. 
Parisians,  Vol.  i. 

Ditto.     Vol.  a. 
Paul  Clifford. 
Rienzi. 
Strange  Story. 


Captain    Marryat. 
covers. 


is.,  papet 


Peter  Simple. 

The  King's  Own. 

Midshipman  Easy. 

Newton  Forster. 

Japhet  in  Search  of  a  Father. 

The  Poacher. 

Phantom  Ship. 

Percival  Keene. 

Frank  Mildmay. 

Olla  Podrida. 

Poor  Jack. 

Various    Authors,       is.    paper 
covers. 

Stories  of  Waterloo.       MAXWELL. 
The  Old  Commodore. 
The  Albatross.  KINGSTON. 

Zingra,  the  Gipsy.          MAILLARD. 
Adelaide    Lindsay.         Author    ol 

"  Emilia  Wyndham." 
A  Week  with  Mossop.       C.  Ross. 
Out  for  a  Holiday  with  Cook. 

SKETCHLEY. 

Haunted  House.      GERSTAECKER. 
A  Sailor's  Adventures.         Ditto. 
Pirates  of  the  Mississippi.    Ditto. 
The  Two  Convicts.  GERSTAECKER, 


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Well  Bound  in  CLOTH. 
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W.  H.  Ainsworth.      is.  Cloth, 

Windsor  Castle. 
Tower  of  London. 
The  Miser's  Daughter. 
Rookwood. 
Old  St.  Paul's. 
Crichton. 
Guy  Fawkes. 
The  Spendthrift. 
James  the  Second. 
The  Star  Chamber. 
The  Flitch  of  Bacon. 

Lancashire  Witches. 
» 
Mervyn  Clitheroe. 

Ovingdean  Grange. 

St.  James's. 

Auriol. 

Jack  Sheppard. 

Boscobel. 

Manchester  Rebels. 

Beau  Nash. 


Mrs.  F.  H.  Burnett,     is.  Cloth. 

Dolly. 

Kathleen. 

Our  Neighbour  Opposite. 

Miss  Crespigny. 

Lindsay's  Luck. 

That  Lass  o'  Lowrie's. 

Th«  Tide  on  the  Moaning  Bar. 


William  Carle  ton.     is.  Cloth. 

Jane  Sinclair. 

The  Clarionet. 

The  Tithe  Proctor. 

Fardarougha. 

Emigrants. 

J.  Feuimore  Cooper,    is.  Cloth* 

The  Last  of  the  Mohicans. 

The  Pioneers. 

The  Red  Rover. 

The  Spy. 

Lionel  Lincoln. 

The  Deerslayer:  The  First  War- 

Path. 

The  Bravo  :  A  Tale  of  Venice. 
The  Waterwitch  ;  or,  The  Skimmer 

of  the  Seas. 
Satanstoe ;      or,     The     Littlepage 

Manuscripts. 
Afloat  and  Ashore :  Sequel  to  Miles 

Wallingford. 

Wyandotte  ;  or,  The  Hutted  Knoll. 
Eve  Lffingham :  Sequel  to  Home- 
ward Bound. 
Miles     Wallingford ;     or,     Lucy 

Hardinge. 
The  Headsman. 
Homeward  Bound. 
The  Borderers ;  or,  The  Heathcotes. 
The  Sea  Lions. 
Ned  Myers  ;   or,  Life   Before  the 

Mast. 
Heidenmauer :    A  Legend  of    the 

Rhine. 
The  Pilot. 
Pathfinder. 
Two  Admirals. 
Prairie. 
Precaution. 
Oak  Openings. 
Mark's  Reef. 


Price  Is.  each. 

(Continued,) 


Alexandra  Dumas,     is.  Cloth. 

The  Three  Musketeers. 

Twenty  Years  After. 

Dr.  Basilius. 

The  Twin  Captains. 

Captain  Paul. 

Chevalier  de  Maison  Rouge. 

Countess  de  Charny. 

Monte  Cristo,  2  vols.  (is.  each). 

Nanon. 

The  Two  Dianas. 

The  Black  Tulip. 

The  Taking  of  the  Bastilc,  2  vols. 

(is.  each). 
Chicot,  the  Jester. 
The  Conspirators. 
Ascanio. 

Page  of  Duke  of  Savoy. 
Isabel  of  Bavaria. 
Beau  Tancrede. 
The  Regent's  Daughter. 
Pauline. 

Catherine  Blum. 
Ingenue. 
Half  Brothers. 
Memoirs   of  a   Physician,  a  vols. 

(is.  each). 
Queen's  Necklace. 
Forty-five  Guardsmen. 
Russian  Gipsy. 
Watchmaker. 
Mohicans  of  Paris. 


Gerald  Griffin,     is.  Cloth. 

Munster  Festival 
The  Rivals. 
Collegians. 


Nathaniel  Hawthorn* 
is.  Cloth, 

The  Scarlet  Letter. 
House  of  Seven  Gables. 
Mosses  from  an  Old  Manse. 

Mark  Twain,     is.  Cloth. 

The     Celebrated  Jumping    Frog. 

Author's  Edition,  with  a  Copy« 

right  Poem. 
Roughing  It. 
Innocents  at  Home. 
Mark  Twain's  Curious  Dream. 
The  Innocents  Abroad. 
The  New  Pilgrim's  Progress. 

Captain  Marry  at.    is.  Cloth. 

Peter  Simple. 

The  King's  Own. 

Midshipman  Easy. 

Newton  Forster. 

Japhet  in  Search  of  a  Father. 

The  Poacher. 

The  Phantom  Ship. 

Percival  Keene. 

Frank  Mildmay. 

Olla  Podrida. 

Poor  Jack, 

Rattlin  the  Reefer. 

Pacha. 

Jacob  Faithful. 

Dog  Fiend. 

Valerie. 

Monsieur  Violet 

Pirate  and  Three  Cutter* 


Price  Is.  each. 


ROUTLEDGE'S  LARGE-SIZE  SHILLING 
NOVELS.    COMPLETE  EDITIONS. 

Demy  8vo. 


Tom  Jones.        HENRY  FIELDING. 
Tristram  Shandy  and  a  Sentimental 
Journey.     LAURENCE  STERNE. 
Mysteries  of  Udolpho. 

Mrs.  RADCLIFFE. 
Pickwick  Papers. 

CHARLES  DICKENS. 
Nicholas  Nickleby.     Ditto. 
Valentine  Vox.    HENRY  COCK.TON. 
Peregrine  Pickle. 

TOBIAS  SMOLLETT. 
Monte  Cristo.  ALEXANDRE  DUMAS. 
Three     Musketeers    and    Twenty 
Years  After. 

ALEXANDRE  DUMAS. 
Innocents   Abroad   and    the  New 
Pilgrim's  Progress. 

MARK  TWAIN. 


Handy  Andy.  SAMUEL  LOVER. 
Wandering  Jew.  EUGENE  SUE. 
Mysteries  of  Paris.  Ditto. 

Les  Miserables.  VICTOR  HUGO. 
Artemus  Ward — His  Book  and  his 

Travels. 
Ten  Thousand  a  Year. 

SAMUEL  WARREN. 
Monsieur  Lecoq. 

EMILE  GABORIAU. 
Slaves  of  Paris.  Ditto. 

Reginald  Vernon ;    or,   The  Fatal 

Likeness. 
Old  London  Bridge. 

G.  H.  RODWELL. 
Headless  Horseman. 

CAPTAIN  MAYNE  REID. 


tYMOJTS  UOVELS    (Che   Pocket-Volume    Edition)   is    bling 
issued  in  Monthly  Volumes  in  the  following  Styles  of  Binding : 

is.         Paper  cover,  cut  edges,  or  uncut  edges. 

Is.  6d.  Cloth  back,  marbled  sides,  cut  edges,  or  uncut  edges. 

2s.         Leather  back,  gilt  top,  cut  edges,  or  uncut  edges. 


Pelham ;  or,  The  Adventures 

of  a  Gentleman. 
The  Last  Days  of  Pompeii 
Eugene  Aram. 
Ernest  Maltravers. 
Alice. 
Rienzi. 

Night  and  Morning. 
Paul  Clifford. 
Disowned. 
A  Strange  Story. 
Harold. 


Lucretia. 

The  Caxtons. 

Devereux. 

Godolphin :  Calderon. 

Kenelm  Chillingly. 

Zancni. 

Falkland :    The    Pilgrims    of 

Rhine :  and  Pausanias. 
The  Coming  Race  (July  25). 
My  Novel,  VoL  i  (Ju?.  25). 

Do.      Vol.  2  (Sept.  25). 

Do.       VoL  3  (Oct.  25). 


the 


Ninth]  Routledge's  Railway  Library  Advertiser.  [Issue. 


ASPINALLS 

More  Popular  than  ever. 
Sales  increasing  all  over  the  world. 


Only  Gold  Medal 

for  Enamel,  Edinburgh, 

1890. 


ENAMEL 


Gold  Medals,  Paris,  1878 :  1889. 

JOSEPlT  GILLOTT'S  PENS. 

Numbers  for  use  by  BANKERS  :— Barrel  Pens,  225,  226,  262. 

Slip  Pens,  332,  909,  287,  166,  404.     In  Fine,  Medium, 

and  Broad  Points. 

ESTABLISHED  1851. 

BIRKBECK   BANK, 

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THREE  per  CENT.  INTEREST  allowed  on  DEPOSITS,  repayable 
on  demand. 

TWO  per  CENT.  INTEREST  on  CURRENT  ACCOUNTS,  calcu- 
lated on  the  minimum  monthly  balances,  when  not  drawn  below  £100. 

STOCKS,  SHARES,  and  ANNUITIES  purchased  and  sold,  and 
Letters  of  Credit  and  Circular  Notes  issued. 

SAVINGS    DEPARTMENT. 

For  the  encouragement  of  Thrift  the  Bank  receives  small  sums  on 
dep  sit,  and  allows  Interest,  at  the  rate  of  THREE  per  CENT,  per 
annum,  on  each  completed  £i.  The  Interest  is  added  to  the  principal  on 
the  3ist  March  annually.  FRANCIS  RAVENSCROFT,  MANAGER. 

How  to  Purchase  a  House  for  Two  Guineas  per  Month. 

With  Immediate  Possession,  and  No  Rent  to  pay. 

Or,  a  Plot  of  Land  for  Five  Shillings  per  Month. 

THE  BIRKBECK  ALMANACK  with  full  particulars  on  application. 

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N 


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[Issue. 


I      M 


f  the 
)  SK1\, 

rosy, 
veilings, 
IB  Skin, 
Ulcers, 
the  Face, 
nflamed 


H 


he 


And  all  other  blemishes  ot  the  Man  caused  by 

tCUCUMBERHSUMMER's  HEAT  or  WINTER'S  COLD. 

\]        It  keeps  the  Skin  Cool  and  Refreshed  on  the  Hottest  Day  in 
Summer,  and  Soft  and  Smooth  in  the  Coldest  Winter. 

Bottles,  i/,  2/6.        Of  all  Chemists  and  Perfumers.        Free  for  3d.  extra  by  the  Makers, 
M.  BEETHAM  &  SON,  CHEMISTS,  CHELTENHAM. 


NMh] 


Routledge's  Railway  Li 


FOR 
ALL 

From  the  Labor. 

THOMAS  JACKSON 

Strangeways,  MANCHESTER. 

THE  YEAR 
ROUND, 

H.R.H.  PRINCE 

ATRflPT'Q 

DAINTY    MORSELS    IN    THE    FORM 
OF  TINY  SILVER  KTTT.T.F.TS 

At  RH. 

ALoMl  o 

CACHOUL 

AND  SURR]           111  If  1  1  III  111 
TO  THE  BREATH  T! 

FRAGRAK           IHIIIIIIIIIill 

HIIIlllIM 

REG.STEF                  A         UUU    H 

31  884     5 

JACKSON'S 

•  2 

SoM 

P.HINFW 

' 

in  -Sorf^es  at 

unuiAuii 

6d.&ls. 

DIAMOND 
CEMENT 

For  mending  every  Article  of  Ornament  or 
Furniture,    China,    Glass,     Earthenware,    etc. 
Also  for  Mounting  Cabinet  Specimens  of  Nature 
and  Art.     It  surpasses  in  aeatness,  in  strength, 
and  cheapness,   and  retains  its  virtues  in   all 
climates.     It  has  stood  the  test  of  time,  and  in 
all  quarters  of  the  globe. 

Or  by 
Inland  Post 

Is.  2d. 

JACKSON'S 

BENZINE 
RECT. 

For   taking  out  GREASE,    OIL,    PAINT, 
&c.  ,  from  Carpets,  Curtains,  Clothes,  Drapery, 
Dresses,   be  the  material  Cotton,  Linen,  Silk, 
or  Wool,  or  the  texture  Fine  or  Coarse. 
It  cleans  admirably   Kid   Gloves  and   Satin 
Slippers,   Fans  and  Feathers,    Books,  Cards, 
Manuscripts.     It   may  be  freely  used  to  rinse 
and  wash  Frail  or  Gilt  Trifles,  to  which  water 
would  be  destructive. 

At  6d.,    Is., 
and  2s.  Gd. 
Parcel  Post, 
3d.  extra. 

WANSBROUGH'S 

METALLIC 
NIPPLE 
SHIELDS 

FOR  LADIES   NURSING.—  By   wearing   the 
WANSBROUGH  Shields  in  ordinary,  whilst 
the  nipples  are  healthy,  they  screen  from  all 
external  sources  of  irritation.    They  are  easy  to 
wear,  holding  on  like  Limpets.     Sore  Nipples* 
heal  whilst  reposing  in  the  bath  of  milk  secreted 
within  the  Shields,  which  give  at  th«  same  time 
both  Comfort  and  Protection. 
Every  box  is  labelled             'T^sri'-  S? 
WaS\t?d?gh>SMadebv    4W&&*™ 

At 
Is.  per  Pair, 
or  by 
Inland  Post, 
Is.  2d. 

JACKSON'S 

RDSMA. 

For  the   removal  of  Hair  •without  a 
Eazor,  from  the  Arms,  Neck,  or  Face,  as 
well  as  Sunburn  or  Tan. 

The  activity  of  this  depilatory  is  notable.    It 
is  easy  and  safe.     It  leaves  a  Whole  Skin  and 
a  Clean  Complexion. 

At  Is. 
By  Inland 
Post,  Is.  2d. 

1891, 

SOLD  BY  THE  PRINCIPAL 
DRUGGISTS. 

For  Abroad 
at  Foreign 
Postal  Rate. 

70,000,  S.  &  B.,  27/7/91.