Full text of "Sailing directions for the coasts of Eastern and Western Patagonia, from Port St. Elena on the east side, to Cape Tres Montes on the west side, including the Strait of Magalhaens, and the sea coast of Tierra Del Fuego"

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SAILING

DIRECTIONS

FOR THE COASTS OF

<£agtent anti 212e£trat Patagonia,

PORT ST. ELENA ON THE EAST SIDE, TO CAPE TRES MOINTES ON THE WEST SIDE ,

INCLUDING THE

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS,

AND THE SEA COAST OF

TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

BEING THE RESULT OF A VOYAGE PERFORMED IN H. M. SLOOPS ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE,
BY ORDER OF THE RIGHT HONORABLE THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY,
UNDER THE DIRECTION OF CAPTAIN P.P. KING, R.N.
BETWEEN THE YEARS 1826 AND 1830.

DRAWN UP FROM THE REPORTS AND JOURNALS OF THE OFFICERS OF

THE EXPEDITION,

PHILLIP PARKER KING,

CAPTAIN R. N., F.R.S., &c.

-!*■

s 0

ED FOR THE HYDROGRAPHICAL OFFICE, ADMIRALTY.

1832.

BV AUTHORITY:

J. HARTNELL, FLEET STREET.

1— — ill Villi II l I ill M».mmiii»

CONTENTS.

T PaSe

INTRODUCTION. ----__

Section 1.— Coast of Patagonia— From Port St. Elena to Cape Virgins 1

Of the Winds and Weather, Tides and Variation of the
Compass between Cape Blanco and Cape Virgins - 17

Section 2. — Strait of Magalhaens— Cape Virgins to Port Famine - 1 9

Section 3. — Strait of Magalhaens— Dawson Island — Admiralty Sound

the Gabriel, Cockburn, and Barbara Channels - - 33

Section 4. — Strait of Magalhaens — From Port Famine to Cape Fro-
ward— the North Coast of Clarence Island— and from
Cape Froward to the Jerome Channel - - - 47

Section 5.— Strait of Magalhaens — Jerome Channel — Otway and Sky-
ring Waters— Crooked and Long Reaches - - - CI

Section 6. — Strait of Magalhaens — Sea Reach, including Capes Victory

and Pillar, and the Evangelists ----- 75

Section 7. — Of the Sea or Outer Coast of Tierra del Fuego — From

Cape Pillar to Cape San Diego in Strait Le Maire - 85

Section 8. — South-West Coast, or Western Patagonia — From the

Strait of Magalhaens to Cape Tres Montes - - 113

Section 9. — Of the Interior Sounds and Channels between the Strait

of Magalhaens and the Gulf of Penas - - - 128

Addenda. — Containing some Supplementary Account of the Eastern

Coast of Patagonia — and of the Strait of Magalhaens 151

Tables of Latitude and Longitude— Variation of the Compass and Tide
Table of the Observed and Estimated heights of Mountains, &c

ERRATA.

P*.tge 17, line 35, for eleven read quarter past ten.

for later: at read later: at anchor off Port San Julian at 1034 and rises 38 feet: at.
22 — 26, dele, and which being dry when Sarmiento passed, was called by him Point Anegada

(drowned land).
27 — 7. for flow is read flow ale.
SO — 13, for steep too read steep to.
40 — 16, for N. W. read N. E.

45 — 27, for Beaufort read Edgeworth.

46 — 10, ditto ditto (also in the margin).
48 — 23,/or coverd read covered.

(i2 — 29, for Fitz Roy Island read Eitz Roy Channel.

65 — 18, after celery add ".

66 heading./orMAGALHEANS read Magalhal.ns

— line 18, for Ossorno read Osorno.
69 — 20, for mucho read mucha.

75 heading of chapter, for Capes Victory Pillar read Capes Victory and Pillar

76 margin, for Angesto read Angosto.

79 line 4, for straglers read stragglers.
24, for bay read harbour.

80 — 30,/or within read with.

81 — 4, after description add *.

82 — last,/o>- Appendice read Apendice.

84 — 27f_/brCape Pillar bears read Cape Pillar it beai
86 — 7, for side is read side are.
90 — 17, for HOP read HOPE.
96 for Chrismas read Christmas.
119 margin, for Ayautar read Ayautau.

— heading./or Penas read Penas.

INTRODUCTION

The description of the Coasts of South America
contained in the following Memoir, is the result of
a voyage of Survey, made by order of the Right
Honorable the Lords of the Admiralty, in His
Majesty's Sloops Adventure and Beagle.

The Eastern Coast of Patagonia, the Western
part of the Strait of Magalhaens, the Gulf of
Penas, and other parts of the Western Coast,
were surveyed by Captain Stokes of the Beagle.
Upon the unfortunate death of that Officer, Cap-
tain Fitz Roy succeeded to the Command, and
discovered and examined the Otway and Skyring
Waters, and surveyed the outer or Sea Coast
of Tierra del Fuego, — from Cape Pillar, at the
Western Entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens.
to Cape San Diego, in Strait Le Maire. The
Cockburn and Barbara Channels and some parts
of the Strait, and the Interior Sounds and Channels

VI INTRODUCTION.

of the Western Coast, from Cape Tres Montes to
the Strait's Western Mouth, were explored by
Lieutenants Skyring and Graves, in the Adelaide, —
a Schooner, that was added to the expedition in
consequence of its being found impracticable to
survey so intricate a Coast with the Ships ; the re-
mainder was surveyed by the Officers of the
Adventure, in her decked boat, the Hope.

■

The differences of Meridians, between the various
points of the Survey, were fixed in all practicable
cases by triangulation ; but where this mode could
not be adopted they were ascertained by Chro-
nometric Observations : — the Zero point being the
place of the Observatory at Port Famine, the
Longitude of which has been fixed at 70° 54" West
of Greenwich.

This determination was obtained principally
by Chronometers, from Monte Video and Rio de
Janeiro, which agreed very closely with the mean
result of a considerable number of Lunar distances
observed at Rio, Gorriti, Monte Video, San Carlos
de Chiloe, and Valparaiso ; and severally referred
to Port Famine by the Chronometric chain.

INTRODUCTION. vii

Assuming Villegagnon Island, at Rio de Janeiro,
to be 43° 05' 03" West of Greenwich, which is the
result obtained by us with fourteen Chronometers
from Plymouth, the Longitude of Rat Island at
Monte Video will be 56 9' 30", and of Port Famine
70° 54' 01". The mean of the Lunar observations
above mentioned make the latter 70° 54' 10'.
Whence the Zero point of the Survey has been
fixed, as above stated, at 70° 54'. Should the Lon-
gitude of the station at Rio de Janeiro, at some
future time, be more correctly determined, all the
meridional differences of this Survey must be cor-
rected by a quantity equal to the excess or defect
of what it is here assumed to be.

In this Memoir, references are occasionally made
to the works of several Navigators, who have
published accounts of the coasts it describes : Of
these, the following is a list : —

An Account of several late Voyages and Discoveries ; by Sir John
Narborough and others. 1 vol. Octavo, London, 1694.

A Voyage to the South Seas in the year 1710-1 ; containing a Narra-
tive of the Loss of His Majesty's Ship the Wager, &c. &c. ; by John
Bulkeley, and John Cummins, late Gunner and Carpenter of the
Wager. Octavo, London, 1743.

The Narrative of the Honorable John Byron, containing an Account
of the Loss of the Wager, &c. &c. Octavo, London, 1 7C8.

Vlll INTRODUCTION.

Viage al Estrecho de Magallanes por el Capitan Pedro Sarmiento de
Gamboa en los Aiios de 1579 y 1580 &c. Madrid, Aiio 1768.

An Account of the Voyages of Commodore Byron, Captain Wallis,
Captain Carteret, and Captain Cook, in H. M. Ships Dolphin, Swallow,
and Endeavour; by John Hawkesworth, L.L.D. 3 vols. 4to.,
Strahan and Cadell, London, 1773.

Relacion del Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Magallanes de la fragata de
S. M. Santa Maria de la Cabeza en los Afios de 1785 y 1786, &c.
4to., Madrid, 1788.

Descripcion Historial de la Provincia y Archipielago de Chiloe por el
Padre Fray Pedro Gonsalez de Agueros, 1791.

Apendice a la relacion del Viage al Magallanes de la fragata de guerra
Santa Maria de la Cabeza que contiene el de los Paquebotes Santa
Casilda y Santa Eulalia para completar el Reconocimiento del Estrecho
en los Anos 1788 y 1789. 4to., Madrid, 1793.

SECTION I.

Coast of PATAGONIA, from Port ST. ELENA to

Cape VIRGINS.

[In the following Directions all the Bearings, which are not otherwise dis-
tinguished, are corrected for Variation. The Latitudes being all South,
and the Longitudes West of Greenwich, and the Variation Easterly,
the distinguishing letters S. W. and E. have been omitted.]

Port St. Elena. — The plan in the Admiralty Chart, which Port St. Elena.
is a copy of the excellent and correct survey by the Officers of
the Spanish ships Atrevida and Descubierta, is sufficient for the
navigator ; there is also a plan in Wcddel's Voyage that is
equally correct. The harbour may be easily known by some
hummocky hills on the north-east projecting- point, on the
eastern of which is a remarkable stone that appears to have been
placed there as a monumental record, but which is a natural
production. The best anchorage is at the N. W. corner of the Anchorage.
bay, in 6 or 7 fathoms, but not too near to the shore, for when
the sea is heavy, the ground-swell breaks for some distance off.
In working into the bay the 2 fathom bank must be avoided, for
which the low island is a good mark.

The projecting head at the north end of the bay is in Situation.

Latitude 44° 30' 45"

Longitude by the mean of 13 chrono-
meters from Goritti (Kiver Plate) . 65° 17 25"
Variation of the compass . . . 19° 10'
H. W. at full and change . . .4 o'clock
rise at springs . . .17 feet.

The water that is contained in the wells, the situations of which Bad water.
are given from Mr. Weddel's plan, is too brackish to be worth
consideration ; nor is there any fresh water to be obtained from any

2 PATAGONIA- EAST COAST.

Port St. Elena, part of the harbour. Of fuel, a temporary supply may be pro-
cured from the small shrubby tree that is described in the account
of Port Desire (see page 6), which is tolerably abundant here.

Refreshments. Guanacoes, ostriches, armadillos, and the cavia, or Patagonian
hare, are to be procured, as are also wild ducks, partridges, snipes,
and rails ; but fish seem to be scarce. The guanaco affords an
excellent food, but it is difficult to approach them: one that was
shot by us, when cleaned and skinned, weighed one hundred and
sixty-eight pounds. The Indians sometimes visit this part of the
coast, which is used by them principally for burying their dead.

R^ef off Ciipe jn approaching Port St. Elena from the northward, there are
several rocks near the shore which are very little above the water,
and there is a considerable reef in the offing, situated four miles
and a quarter S. 78° E. from Cape Raso, and N. 51° E. eight miles
from the N. E. trend of the north head of the port. It is a dry
rock, and is near the extremity of a ridge which probably projects
off from the latter point, for there are two dry rocks in the same
line of bearing, one a mile and a half, and the other three miles
and one-third from the point, besides several patches which
break. The tide sets rather strong along the shore, which is
fronted by reefs for two or three miles off; great caution should
therefore be used in approaching the coast, as the water is deep,
and if becalmed it may be necessary to anchor, which will be in
at least 30 fathoms water.

Should the above reef be as continuous as it appears, there
should be good riding in the bay between Cape Raso and Port
St. Elena.

Between the south head of Port St. Elena and Cape Two

Bays are two bights in the coast, the southernmost of which is

Cape Two considerable, and may probably afford a good anchorage. Cape

di*' Two Baas is a rounded point; the hill close to the sea on the

most projecting part of the cape being- in hit. 44° 58' ; the small
islet of AiicE,to the south-east of the cape, is in lat. 45° 0' 50" and
Ion. G5° 25' 25' ; and Rasa Island is in lat. 45° 6' 30', Ion.
G5°20' 11".

The coast trends westerly round Cape Two Bays and forms the
northern part of St. George's Gui.f.

PATAGONIA— EAST COAST.

The southern limit of St. George's gulf, Cape Three Points, Capes TLree
is very easily discovered at sea by its very level outline, being- a 13^"™!"'
long range of table land higher than any part near it, visible
from the deck for more than twenty miles ; and to the south-east,
detached, but near the range, there is a conical hill, which is
easily discerned from the northward, but from the north-east is
not seen, being concealed by the ranges of land behind it in the
south-west. At six miles and a half to the south-east of Cape
Three Points is Cape Blanco, a low rugged tongue of land,
terminated by a rounded but very rugged hillock and two smaller
ones ; which, when first seen, appear to be islands detached from
the coast. The neck of land which forms the communication
with the coast is low and sandv, and probably offers, on its south
side, shelter from southerly winds.

There are several shoals off this part of the coast, that at low Shoals oil' Cape
water would doubtless be dangerous. His Majesty's Ship Ad- anco"
venture passed over two, and had not less than 5 fathoms, but
possibly at low water the depth may be considerably less ; they
are thrown up by the force of the tide, which sweeps round the
cape, into and out of St. George's gulf, with great strength.

The north and south ends of the northern shoal bear respectively
from Cape Three Points and Cape Blanco east, distant from the
former seven miles, and from the latter five miles, consequently
it extends in a N. by W. and S. by E. direction for b\ miles; it
is scarcely a quarter of a mile wide.

The north end of the southernshoal bears S. 75° E., seven
miles from Cape Blanco, and extends in nearly a south direction
for two miles. Between these shoals there is a passage two miles
wide, and the depth gradually increases to more than 15 fathoms.

Within the outer shoals are two others seen by the Spaniards ;
they are laid down from the authority of a chart communicated
to me by Don Felipe Bauza. The outer northern shoal is
probably the one noticed by Commodore Byron, who described
it to bear from Cape Blanco W. S. W. \ S. 4 leagues, the depth
diminishing, as he approached it from the eastward, from 13 to 7
fathoms.- There is, however, much shoal ground to the north east ;
for in the year 1829, having approached the land, and being

* Hawkesworth, i. 13.

Shoals off
Cape Blanco,

Tides.

Supposed error
in the chart.

Coast between
Cape Blanco
and Port
Desire.

PATAGONIA— EAST COAST.

fourteen miles from Cape Three Points, bearing S. 38° W. mag. the
depth rather suddenly decreased from 40 to 14 fathoms, pebbly
bottom, so that the foul-ground extends for fourteen or fifteen
miles to the north-east of the cape, the edge of the bank (14
fathoms) being about eight or ten miles within the soundings of
50 fathoms. On approaching it, the quality of the bottom
becomes irregular, and changes from oaze to sand, and the shoal
patches are pebbly ; so that by attention to the soundings and
nature of the bottom, these shoals may be easily avoided.

A good mark to avoid them is, not to approach so near to the
cape as to see the rugged hillock of Cape Blanco, and to keep
the high land of Cape Three Points, which is visible from the
deck about twenty miles, on the horizon.

The flood or northerly tide ceased in the offing at 4h 15' after
the moon's passage, which agrees very well with the establish-
ment of the tide off Penguin Island ; but in the neighbourhood
of the cape and among the shoals, the tides may be less regular ;
they produce strong ripplings, and set with considerable
strength.

There is reason to think that the two capes are laid down
erroneouslv in latitude, and that the distance between them should
be greater ; for by a latitude observed at sea, compared with
good bearings of the two capes, the error of the chart would be
seven miles too southerly. We had no good opportunity of
investigating this point, and the situation assigned to them is
taken from the chart communicated to me by Don Felipe Bauza,
above referred to.

The coast line between Cape Blanco and Port Desire has been
imperfectly seen ; within the distance of three to five miles from
the shore, however, there are several small patches of rock, which
uncover at half tide, but beyond that belt the coast is free from
any known danger, and may be approached by sounding in not
less than 14 or 15 fathoms : within that limit the ground is foul.
To the northward of Port Desire the land is low, with a shingle
beach, excepting for the first three miles, where it is high and
cliffy. The north point of entrance of the bay is a steep bluff,
which is remarkable in being the only point of that description
along the coast to the northward. At three miles N. 28° E. mag.

PATAGONIA— EAST COAST. 5

from this bluff there is a ledge of rocks (Surrel's Ledge), a Surrel's Ledge

quarter of a mile without which the depth is 13 fathoms. The

Tower rock becomes visible after passing this ledge ; it opens

out when the north bluff bears S. 50° W. mag. A ship bound

to Port Desire, or merely wishing to anchor in the bay which

fronts it, may procure a good berth in G| fathoms, at low water,

well sheltered from N. f W. to S. 50° E. mag. with the

North bluff bearing . . N. 48° W. 1

Tower rock . . . N. 82$ W. I Magnetic. SS""

Penguin Island . . . S, 50§ W. j
This situation being a little to the southward of the fair way of the
port, and about one mile and a half from the nearest shore, is
quite out of the strength of the tide ; the bottom, being strewed
with rounded stones, is rather foul for hemp cables, but the holding
ground, although of such suspicious quality, seemedto be good ; at
this place the tide rose from 6% to 9| fathoms, a difference of
16i feet.

Port Desire. — The river of Port Desire has rather a difficult Port Desire
entrance, from the strength of the tide and its narrow width,
and it is rendered still more confined from several rocky reefs
that extend oft* the north shore to nearly mid-channel. There
is good anchorage off the mouth. By waiting, therefore, for low
water, all the dangers that exist will be seen, and the vessel easily Directions for
dropt in with the tide, should the wind be, as it generally is,
westerly. If it be fair, it is advisable for the ship to be in the
entrance at slack water ; or, if the breeze be strong enough, a
little before : as the water is deep on the south shore, there seems
to be no real danger that may not be avoided by a careful look
out for kelp, which always grows upon, and therefore plainly
indicates the existence of rocky ground. The course in is about
S. 76° W. mag., and the distance from the entrance to the anchor-
age is one mile and a half. The anchorage is off the ruins* Anchorage.
on the north shore, and the vessel should be moored: the tide
sets in and out regularly.

* Some years since a Spanish colony was founded at Port Desire, but not answer-
ing the purpose it was soon afterwards given up. The ruins of the edifices, which
are of stone, and the remains of a fruit garden, that ut our visit produced quinces and
cherries, distinctly point out the spot.

(j PATAGONIA-EAST COAST.

Tort Desire The river was examined for sixteen miles, but is probably

navigable to a much greater distance. Four miles above the
ruins there is a small peninsula, connected by a narrow isthmus
to the north shore ; by sending1 a party up, and stationing men with

Refreshments, guns on the isthmus, it is very likely that several guanacoes may
be shot as they are driven across it ; for the peninsula is their
favourite place to feed upon. These animals are very abundant, but
unless stratagembe used, they are very difficult,from their shyness, to

Wood and be approached. There are some water holes near the ruins, which

water. generally contain water, but of so brackish a quality as scarcely

to be worth notice. The wood, although of very small size, burns
well, and is much prized by sealers for that quality ; it is a low,
shrubby tree, bearing a yellow flower, with a prickle at the ex-
tremity of every leaf. The sealers call it piccolo, from the small
dimensions of the stem. The roots also are dug up and used
for fuel.

renguin island The outer side of Penguin Island is bold, and may be passed
very close without danger, for the tide rather sets off than towards

Tides. the shore. The tide is very rapid, and forms, even in a calm, strong

ripplings, which in a breeze must be very dangerous for boats
to pass through, and, indeed, not agreeable for vessels of any size.
The flood sets to the northward, and during its strength at more
than three knots ; for we found the ebb to have set us fifteen miles
to the south in five hours. Off the island the high water, or the
termination of the northerly stream, takes place at about 4h or 4h 1 5'
after the moon's passage; which is 3| or 4 hours at least after
it is hiofh water at the shore.

Sea Best Bay, Sea Bear Bay, — is one of the best anchorag-es that 1 know of
on the coast, but is difficult of access, without a leading and
a fresh wind, on account of the strength of the tides, which
set to the northward through the narrow channels separating
the rocky islets that are strewed between Penguin Island and the
main land. The bottom, besides, is not only deep, 23 to 30
fathoms, but is very foul and rocky ; and although a ship may be
prevented from drifting through by dropping an anchor, yet its
loss, from the foulness of the ground, would be almost certain.

Direction for *n entering the bay, border pretty close to the low rocky point to

entering. |},e southward, to avoid a reef that lios about a quarter of a mile

PATAGONIA— EAST COAST. 7

without it; but as the sea always breaks upon it, the eye and a Sea Beat
due consideration of the tide are the best guides. This reef ex-
tends for some distance to the eastward of the breakers, and
therefore the tides, when within it, sets in or out of the bay, but
with little strength. Should a ship not be able to enter the bay,
there is anchorage off the point between it and the reef, on, I
believe, tolerably clean ground, You will have 12 or 13 fathoms
off the reef ; then the depth shoals for one cr two heaves to 7
fathoms, after which it deepens again : you may then haul across
the bay, and anchor at about a quarter of a mile within the low Ancbor.ige.
rocky point, bearing E. | N. or E. by N. by compass, in 4
fathoms low water, avoiding the kelp which projects off from
the sandy beaches ; this is, however, sufficiently distinct, and for
further directions the plan will be the best guide. A small
vessel may easily turn in, but I should hesitate taking such a step
in one that I could not make quite certain of. When once in,
the anchorage is good, and protected at all points, except between
N. 4lc and N. 78° § E., but from the appearance of the beaches I
do not think a heavy sea is ever thrown into it. There is no Wood and
wood to be procured of any size, and the few gallons of water, that
are collected in the wells at the point, so very precarious as to be
scarcely worth attention. The passage to the watering holes is
over a small rocky bar, which a boat may cross at $ flood ; it is
immediately within the eastern point of the bay : there is a small
spring at the north end of the third sandy beach, which a herd of
guanacoes was observed to visit every morning, but as the water
only trickles down in a very small quantity, it cannot afford more
than a temporary supply. Two of the three wells at the point we
found to be full of sea water, which had breached over the rocks ;
the other contained about forty gallons of rather a brackish taste.
Besides a good and secure anchorage, this place affords no other
advantages ; it is convenient for sealing vessels to anchor in whilst
employed in their occupation upon Penguin Island.

Sea Bear Bay is in latitude 47° 56' 49", and Ion gitude 65° 44' 00' ; SttwUon, ^
variation 20°; high water at full and change 12h 45', and the tide HE,. °

rises 20 feet.

Spirings Bay is contained between the south head of Sea Bear swings Bay.
Bay and the point within the Shag Rock ; it forms a considerable

Spirings Bay.

Eddystone
Rock.

Shacr Rock.

Wulchman's
Cape.

PATAGONIA - EAST COAST.

bio-ht, but is much exposed, being quite open to the south and east,
and at the conclusion of a south-west gale, when the wind always
veers to south and south by east, there is a considerable sea. The
shore is skirted for some distance off with many rocks, and the
bay altogether is quite unfit for anchorage. The land is of the
same height as about Sea Bear Bay, but has more lumps or nodules
of rocky hills visible on the outline of its summit.

Off this bay, in the old chart, is laid down a rock called the
Eddystone : it would seem that this rock and the Bellaco Rock,
discovered by Nodales in 1619, is the same danger; but the
whole coast between Cape Blanco and Port St. Julian is much
strewed with shoals, which are the more dangerous from the
strength of the tides which set between them. In navigating upon
this part of the coast, the depth and quality of the soundings is
a good guide, and, as a general rule, when the depth is more than
40 fathoms, there exists no known danger.

In directing the ship's course by night near this coast, regard
should be paid to the tide, which sets with considerable strength,
the current running parallel with the shore.

The Shag Rock is a whitish mass of rock, perfectly bare, lying
about one mile and a half off shore; two miles to the south of it
are four small dark coloured rocks; and at three miles S. S. W.
from it, there is rather a large rocky islet.

On the land, and at a short distance from the coast, are three
hills, which appear, when a little to the southward of Sea Bear
Bay, like three round-topped hills, but on reaching more to the
southward they extend in length and form into two hills, and, at
three leagues to the south of the Shag rock, they appear to form
one mass of table land. Watchman's Cape is very low, and
may be distinguished by its bell-shaped mount : at two leagues
from the point is a shoal with kelp upon it, on which the least
water is 3 fathoms, but on approaching it the depth gradually
decreases : there are also many other shoal patches, but all are
buoyed with sea weed ; the ship passed between several in 7 and
9 fathoms.

The ground is very foul and uneven for more than four miles
from Watchman's Cape ; here the coast trends round to the
westward and becomes higher. Being to the southward of the

PATAGONIA— EAST COAST. 9

cape, there appears a mount about two miles from its extreme \yaichimin's
point resembling- Monte Video, in the River Plate, both in shape Cape*
and colour, but not quite so high ; it is called Monte Video, and
is in latitude 48° 18' 55", and longitude 66° 18' 00'.

The Bellaco Rock, or San Estevan's (Stephen's) Shoal, BellacoRock.
which was discovered by the Nodales in 1619, was searched
for in vain in the Descubierta and Atrevida's voyage; but
Captain Stokes, in the early part of 1828 on his passage down
the coast, found it and had an observation of the sun close
to it for the latitude. It is in lat. 48° 30' 50", and ion.
66° 9' 25'. It bears S. 13° E., ten miles and a half from the
extremity of Watchman's Cape, and S. E. mag. from Monte
Video. The rock is a dark mass, about 9 or 10 feet above the
water at high tide, and has the appearance of a boat turned
bottom up : within half a mile of its south side the Beagle
sounded in 12 and 15 fathoms, rocky bottom, and on its east
side, at the same distance, the depth is from 20 to 24 fathoms.
The ground around it being foul and uneven, the coast in its
neighbourhood should be avoided. Between Watchman's Cape
and Port St. Julian the land is of moderate height.

Wood's Mount is visible from the deck for at least eleven
leagues, and is a good mark for Port St. Julian, being Hat- PortSt. Julian.
topped and much more elevated than the land about it ; the trend of
the coast may also be a good mark; but as the land about Port St.
Julian is higher than to the southward or northward, and Wood's
Mount is so remarkable a feature, no mistake can be made. In a
line with the south point of entrance the mount bears N. 8G ' W.
(W. 16° \ S. mag.) The north head, Cape Curioso, is a low point
jutting out to the r/ rthward, formed of cliffs horizontally stratilied,
of which the upper part is white-brown, and the lower generally
blacky or with black streaks.

Keeping Wood's Mount bearing S. 67° W. by compass will
lead you to the south head ; which will be easily distinguished
when at the distance of six or eight miles, or more, according to
the state of the weather.

The land to the southward of Port St. Julian is uniform, flat,
and low ; it is covered by scrubby bushes, and fronted by a shingle

c .

10 PATAGONIA-EAST COAST.

Coa*t near beach. At ten or twelve miles south of it, coming from the E. $. E.,
a small flat-topped hill is seen over the low coast hills.

In lat. 49° 27', the character of the coast changes entirely to
a range of steep white clay cliffs, the average height of which
was calculated, by angular measurement, to be about three
hundred or three hundred and thirty feet. They rise like a
wall from the sea, which, at high water, nearly washes their
base ; but at low water they are fronted by a considerable extent
of beach, partly of shingle and partly of mud. Some short rocky
ledges, which break at half tide, lie off certain parts of this range,
but none of the ledges extend for more than a mile from the
shore. This cliffy range occasionally forms projections, but so
slight as not to be perceived when passing abreast of them.

Anchorage off Anchorages along the coast may be taken up, with the wind off
shore, at from a mile to two miles from the beach, in from 9 to
12 and 14 fathoms, oazy bottom. In lat. 49° 55' the range of
steep white cliffs begins gradually to diminish in height, and
terminates, at nine miles farther to the southward, in a low point,
forming the northern side of the entrance of Santa Cruz river.
It is called in the chart North Point, and is in lat. 50° 5' 20", and
68° 3'.

Santa Cruz. Santa Cruz. — The appearance of the coast about the entrance

of the river of Santa Cruz is very remarkable, and easy to be
known, from the manner in which it makes when seen from the
northward; and is even more conspicuous when seen from the
southward. From the latter direction a coast line of cliffs and
downs of considerable height is seen extending' to the southward
of the entrance as far as the eye can reach, and terminating abruptly
to the northward in a high, steep, flat-topped cliff, Mount
Entrance, of which the upper part descends vertically, the lower
slopes off, and appears to be united with some very low land, which
will be seen extending (according to the distance off) two or three
points of the compass to the northward of it. Mount Entrance is
at the south entrance of the river, and is, by angular measurement,
three hundred and fifty-six feet high ; the low land is on the
northern side of the entrance of the river.
The outer part of the bar, on which at low tide there is

PATAGONIA-EAST COAST, 11

fourteen feet water, is nearly four miles S. 63° § E. from Mount Santa Cruz
Entrance, and nine miles from North Point, bearing N. 54° E. BuC'

Fourteen miles up the river, on the south bank, is Weddel's Directions
Bluff, a conspicuous headland; and eleven miles farther is lor cwsslne "•
another called Beagle Bluff. Weddel's Bluff, open of the
south entrance (and in a line with the centre of Sea Lion Island),
bearing- N. W. by W. | W* by compass, is the leading mark for
the passage over the bar : with this mark on, and at high water,
the Beagle crossed the bar in 1\ fathoms-f* ; the Beagle Bluff, a
little open of the low points of the north side of the river, is also a
leading mark to cross the bar.

After passing- the bar, which is about a mile broad, there is no
impediment to a free course up the river, keeping midway
between the narrow points of entrance, until reaching the shoals
which project off the east point of Sea Lion Island. The best
anchorage seems to be that occupied by the Beagle, on the south
side of Sea Lion Island, where the water is shoaler, and the tide
not so strong. The plan precludes the necessity of any further
notice of the harbour.

At Weddel's Bluff the river divides into two arms; the northern Description of
one, which trends under the east fall of Beagle Bluff, was the Rlvers-
examined by Captain Stokes for twelve miles above its com-
mencement, where it ceased to be navigable, even at high water.
Its bed was divided by banks of sand into several little fordable
streams, preserving, as far as the inequalities of the land would
permit the eye to follow their course, a mean N. W. by N.
direction. The stream at this part was quite fresh, but still subject
to the reo-ular ebb and flow. On the boat's return she was left
dry for six hours, in the middle of the channel, about two miles
above Beadle Bluff. At half tide the boats took in their water at

this place.

The shore on the south-west side is a range of clay cliffs, of
the average height of two hundred and fifty feet, with grassy
downs, and intersected with vallics and ravines. On the eastern

• This is the bearing given by Weddel in his account of Santa Cruz.
f The rise of the tide is considerable ; in going out, after crossing the bur, tbe
Beagle anchored, and at low tide the water had fallen twenty-six feet,

JO PATAGONIA— EAST COAST.

Description of side, the land, for the most part, is low and level, with a shingle

the Rivers of . . .. n j

Santa Ciuz. beach ; the aspect ot the country is dreary, the sou gravelly, and
the vegetation scanty, the largest production of that nature being
bushes bearing berries, none of which exceed seven or eight feet
in height. Many brant o-eese and ducks were seen, as well as
the common sea fowl of these parts, such as penguins, corvorants,
gulls, ducks and divers; several ostriches also made their appear-
ance on the beach, and traces of guanacoes were observed.

The south-western arm, which is the most considerable one of
the two, was examined for thirty-three miles. It was supposed by
Weddel to be of such considerable size and interesting appear-
ance as to be Likely to communicate with some branch from the
Strait of Mag-alhaens. The first reach of the arm runs S. W. by
W. six miles, with a mean breadth of two miles and a half. At
one league and a half up, the boat, being anchored for the night
in mid-channel in twelve feet, was left dry at low water. At
the place of the first observation, on the north side, in lat. 49° 57',
and Ion. 08" 53', the influence of the tides had. altogether ceased,
and the water was quite fresh. The stream ran beautifully clear
and pure, with the velocity of at least five miles an hour, over a
bed of pebbles mixed with dark sand % its mean breadthbeing three
quarters of a mile, and depth in mid channel eight feet. It runs
between two nearly parallel ranges of hills, about four miles
asunder ; beyond this the reaches are short, seldom more than
two miles long*, forming tortuous courses between S. S. E. and
W. by S. The wind blew directly down, and the rapidity of the
stream was so great that the boat Avas obliged to be tracked up
the river.*

By the plan, the examination terminated in lat. 50° 9', Ion.
69° 21', which is forty-five miles in a due west direction from its
mouth, but by the course of the stream fifty-three miles.
Anchorage oft At an anchorage outside the bar, Mount Entrance bearing
the Bar. n. 82> W. five miles off, and Weddel's Bluff N. 65° W„ the

Beagle rode out a gale from the S. 8. W. and South with
a heavy sea without, driving. The soundings that are marked in

* The above descriptions of Santa Cruz and the river is taken from the late Com-
mander Stokes's MS, Journal

PATAGONIA— EAST COAST. jg

the chart, outside the bar, were taken at low water, whilst the ship SaniaCruz.
occupied the above anchorage.

The tides in the offing- were observed to flow very regularly six Tides.
hours each way, but to turn two hours later than the time of hio-h
water in shore. The flood, as before, was observed to run to the
northward.

The coast to the south of the river is bounded by a ledge of
rocks, which are either dry at half tide, or arc then shown by a
line of breakers : they extend as far off as three miles. On one
occasion the Beagle anchored among them, and had some
difficulty, and not a little risk, in escaping.

Between Coy Inlet and Santa Cruz the coast trends slightly
in, and is formed bv a succession of cliffs and intervening low
beaches. Coy Inlet is conspicuous, as it is the only part of the
coast that has the appearance of an inlet between Santa Cruz
and Cape Fairweather.

When within seven miles of its latitude (50° 57), as well to
the northward as to the southward of it, a ship should keep at
the distance of four or five miles off the coast. There can be no
inducement to go nearer, as it affords neither fuel nor water;
and if incautiously approached much trouble and even danger
may ensue, from the ledges of rocks, which project at least three
miles, and perhaps more, from the coast.

Cov Inlet. — There is no account either of Coy Inlet or of the Coy inlet.
Gallegos River in Captain Stokes's Journal : what is here given
is taken from the chart, and from what oral information I have
received.

Coy Inlet is a shoal salt water inlet, terminating at nineteen
miles from the entrance, and fronted by a bar of rocks, leaving
a passage only of six feet water on their south side ; inside there
seems to be little more than three feet water, and, in most parts
of the inlet, the banks, which are- of mud and sand, are dry at low
water ; it is useless for any other purpose than to afford shelter to
a small boat. The southern side of the inlet is cliffy, and at its
termination receives the drains of an extensive flat country.

Thence to Cape Fairweather the coast is similar to the northern
part, but more free from rocky ledges, and good anchorage may

PATAGONIA-EAST COAST.

Tides,

Fresh water.

Cape Fair-
weather,

Coast between be bad from two to six miles off shore, in from 7 to 12 and 14
Cape Fair- fathoms, muddy bottom ; the water shoaling gradually to the
weather. shore. The beach is of shingle to high water mark, and then of

hard clay as far as one hundred feet beyond the low water limit,
where a green muddy bottom commences, and the water gradually
deepens. The outer edge of the clay is bounded by a ledge of
rocks, on which the sea breaks; it extends for some distance
parallel with the coast.

The flood sets to the N. W. by N., and the ebb S. E. by S., six
hours each way ; high water at full and change between 9 and 10
o'clock, and the tide rises twenty-four feet.

In lat. 51° 16', about seventeen miles north of the cape, there
is a ravine containing abundance of fresh water, which may be
obtained, when the wind is off shore, without any difficulty ; it is
standing water, and being much grown over with plants, may not
keep, but for a temporary supply it seemed to be very good.

Cape Fairweather is the south extremity of the long range
of clay cliffs that extends from Coy Inlet, almost, without a break.
The cape resembles very much Cape St. Vincent, on the coast
of Spain ; it also bears a very great resemblance to Cape Virgins,
for which it has frequently been taken, notwithstanding there is
more than forty-five miles difference in the latitude of the two
headlands. This mistake was made in the Adventure as well as
in the Beagle on our first visit, when, no observation for the
latitude having been obtained, we were two days at anchor off it
before our error was discovered. A similar error was also
made by one of the ships belonging to the fleet under the
command of Loyasa, in the year 1525 (see Burney's Collection
of Voyages, vol. i. p. 131): and the Nodales, in their description
of the coast, warn the navigator from mistaking the one for the
other, " y venido de mar en fuera a. buscar la tierra, facilmente
podian hacer de Rio de Gallegos el Cabo de las Virgines ;" (and
in making the land Cape Virgins may easily be mistaken for the
River Gallegos). — Voyage of the Nodales, p. 53.

On the old charts of this part of the coast the shore is described
to be formed of chalk hills " like the coast of Kent :" the re-
semblance, certainly, is very great, but instead of chalk they are of

PATAGONIA— EAST COAST. jc

clay. They are from three to four hundred feet high, and cape Fair-
are horizontally stratified, the strata running for many miles W8ather-
without interruption.

The interior is formed by open plains of undulating country Descripuon of
covered with grass and plants, among which is abundance of wild Couutry-
thyme, but entirely destitute of trees: it abounds with guanacoes,
which may be procured by laying in wait at the water holes.

Besides the pond above-mentioned, there is no want for fresh Fresh water.
water ; it may be seen trickling down the face of the cliffs at
short intervals.

The entrance of the River Gallegos is formed on the north River Gaiiego.
side by the cliffy land of Cape Fairweather, and on the south by
a low shore that is not visible at sea for more than four or five
leagues, excepting the hills in the interior, called the Friars,
the Convents, and North Hill. It is fronted by extensive
sand banks, most of which may be crossed at high water, but
at half ebb they are almost all dry. The entrance is round Directions for
the south extremity of the shoals, which bear from the south en cimg'
trend of the cape S. 43° | E., distant ten miles. The passage in is
parallel with the coast to the southward of the entrance, taking
care not to open the land to the northward of Cape Fairweather's
most eastern trend ; which, when in the fair way, should bear
N. 40° W. mag. The shore on the larboard hand must then be
gradually approached, and, in the present state of the knowledge
we possess, the ship should be anchored to await low water,
in 10 fathoms, at a mile and a half from the shore, so soon as
the south point begins to be observed to trend round to the
westward ; the anchorage there is good, and well sheltered from
the prevailing winds.

By anchoring, the passage in will be easily detected, and may
be passed before the shoals are again covered, which will be a good
guide : 4 fathoms is the depth at low water in the narrowest part
of the channel. Anchorage may be taken up on the south side, Anchorage.
for to the northward the banks are extensive.

There is also a middle, and as it appears to be the widest
may be the best, channel, for crossing the bar. The outer part
was not completely examined ; but, no doubt, there is a sufficient
depth of water at three quarters flood for any vessel to pass it.

]6 PATAGONIA ^EAST COAST.

River Gaitegos The southern channel, however, is preferable from having the land
as a guide.

The river runs in to the westward for thirty miles, and then
winds more southerly between two ranges of hills. Its banks
are formed of downs, abounding with guanacoes and ostriches.
The water is fresh at twenty-five miles from the mouth. In the
entrance the time of high water at full and change is 8h 50' ; the
rise of tide, at the springs, is forty-six feet, and the stream rims as
much as five miles an hour.

Coast to the From the south entrance of the Gallegos River, the coast,

north of Cape .

Virgins. towards Cape Virgins, extends in a more easterly direction than

it does to the northward of Cape Fairweather ; and, for the first
half of t'hc distance, is formed by a low shelving coast, that at a
few leagues from the shore is not visible, so that a stranger might
readily suppose it to be the entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens.
There are, however, some marks by which it may be known,
even should the latitude not have been ascertained. In clear
weather the Friars and the other hills near them would be visible;
and in thick weather the soundings off the cape will be an in-
fallible guide ; for at the distance of four miles off no more than
4 fathoms will be found, whereas at that distance from Cape
Virgins the depth is considerable : the bottom also to the north
of Cape Fairweather is of mud, whilst that to the north of Cape
Virgins is of gravel or coarse sand ; and the latter cape has a long
low point of shingle running off it for nearly five miles to the
8. W.; and, lastly, if the weather be clear, the distant land of
Tierra del Fuego will be visible to the S. S. W.

At eighteen miles to the southward of Cape Fairweather
the cliffs again commence, and continue to Cape Virgins, with
only one or two breaks ; in one of which, eight miles north of
the latter cape, I think a boat may land, if necessary. There is
good anchorage along the whole coast between the Gallegos
and Cape Virgins, at from two to five miles off shore; but the
bottom is rather stony and might injure hempen cables. As the
cape is approached, the ground becomes more foul.

PAT A.GONIA— EAST COAST.

Of the JVmds and JVeaiher, Tides, and Variation of Ike
Compass, between Cape BLANCO and Cape VIRGINS.

Our experience of the wind and weather upon this part of the Wi,lJ »nd
coast was not sufficient to enable us to form any judgment of the
changes that are liable to occur. The prevailing* winds, par-
ticularly towards the southern portion, are from the south-west,
from which quarter the gales are the strongest; but near the land,
during- the summer season, they veer about between .South and
W. N. W. ; and in the winter, when the sun has northern
declination, they hang more commonly to the northward of west.
Northerly winds are accompanied by misty or foggy weather,
particularly on that portion of the coast between the Rio de la
Plata and Port St. Elena.

The marine barometer here is of signal advantage. It is low Marine
with a northerly wind, but as soon as the column has fallen totwentv-
nine inches or lower, and ceases to fall, a change of wind from the
S. W. may be expected ; which commences with, or very soon
follows, the ascent of the mercury ; the wind then freshens and
blows hard, and the weather clears up. The clouds arc white, of
large size, and of rounded form, and the air becomes elastic, dry,
and cold. During the existence of, and for some days preceding, a
northerly wind, there is generally a very copious deposition of dew ;
indeed, the appearance of it is an infallible presage of the change.
With northerly winds the air is mild and excessively damp, but
when thev blow from the opposite quarter it is cold and dry. The
wind rarely blows from east, but sometimes obliquely towards
the coast from N. E. or S. S. E.

The flood tide sets to the northward, parallel with the coast. Tides.
Near Cape Virgins the northerly tide ceases at about four hours
before the moon's passage ; in the Gallegos River it is high
water at full and change at 8h 50', and rises forty-six feet: at
Cape Fairweather at nine o'clock, and rises twenty-eight feet : at
Coy Inlet at between nine and ten o'clock : at Santa Cruz about
eleven o'clock, but in the offing two hours later : at Sea Bear
Bay 12h 45', rising twenty feet: Port Desire 121' 10', rise
eighteen feet and a half: and at Port St. Elena at four o'clock in

18 PATAGONIA— EAST COAST.

the afternoon, the rise seventeen feet. In the offing of Port
Desire the tides are three and a half or four hours later than they
are in shore, which is probably owing to the eddy tide setting out
of St. George's Gulf.
Variation. The variation of the compass gradually increases from the

Rio de la Plata, where it is about 14c : in lat. 3G°£, Ion. 55°4 it is
about 14°£ : in lat. 41° and Ion. 60° it is 16° : in lat. 41°| and Ion.
60°| it is 17° : at Port St. Elena 19° 10' : at Port Desire 19° 42' :
at Sea Bear Bay 20° 47' : at Port St. Julian 22° 18 : at Santa
Cruz 20° 54' : at the River Gallegos 21° 47' : and at Cape
Virgins it may be considered about 22°|; At the last place,
according to Sir John Narborough,* the variation in the year 1670
was 17°, and Wallis and Carteret,«f« in the year 1767, found it
24° 30' ; so that it has scarcely altered within the last hundred
and sixty years.

* Narborougb 's Voyage, p. 60.
t Hawkeswortb, yoI. i. p. 410.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS. 19

SECTION II. '

Strait of MAGALHAENS—Caps VIRGINS to Port

FAMINE.

Cape Virgins, a steep cliff, about three hundred feet high, Cape Virgins.
(in lat. 52° 18' 35', and Ion. 68° 16' 55*,*) is the southern ex-
tremity of the Patagonian coast, and the north entrance of the
Strait of Magalhaens. There is an appearance of a reef that ^eef off itt
may extend off the point for half a mile, but not beyond that
distance. The Adventure passed at one mile and a half from
it, sounding" in 8 fathoms, stones ; and then, standing to the south,
crossed a bank of gravel, sounding regularly in 7 fathoms, until
Dungeness Point bore S. W. by W. by compass, when the water
deepened. This bank trends off more to the southward and
eastward, but I believe its termination is at five miles S. 87* E. from
the extremity of Dungeness.

I do not imagine that any part of it is shoal enough to endanger
a ship, but near its extremity there are some overfalls, among
which the least depth that we found was 5 fathoms at low water.

In rounding Cape Virgins, unless the wind be easterly or
southerly, I should recommend a ship to pass within one mile
and a half of the cape, and steer S. by E. by compass until
Dungeness bears S. W. mag. ; then to edge away round the latter
point, and afterwards the coast is clear to Cape Possession. In
moderate weather ships may anchor any where between Dunge- Anchorage
ness and Cape Possession. The bottom is of good holding ground,
and quite clean. At from three to five miles from the coast, the
depth will be from 15 to 20 fathoms.

We know nothing of the Fuegian shore, or south side of the

* By ckronometrical obnetTation OS* 11' 46r.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Cape Posses-
sion.

Possession
Bay.

Direction
Hills.

Anchorage.

enhance. The Beadle, in beating in, made a board for 8 miles
to the southward of Dungeness, and had 40 fathoms; but I
believe the coast to be of shoal approach, and to be lined by a
bank that is connected to the extensive reefs which project from
Cape Orange.

Cape Possession is a cliffy headland on the north shore, and
will be seen opening round Dungeness, on the magnetic bearing
of S. 86° 30' W. ; the distance between them is twenty miles :
at ten or twelve miles to the west of Dungeness, Mount Aymond
will make its appearance, bearing about N. 85° W. mag.

Possession Bay, which extends from Cape Possession to the
entrance of the First Narrow, curves in to the northward round
the cape and is fronted by an extensive shoal, stretching off for
more than four miles from the shore, many parts of which are dry
at half tide; on its south side the depth diminishes gradually,
and offers good anchorage for vessels entering the strait to await
the tide for passing the First Narrow.

On the western side of the bay, there are some remarkable hills
of a darker green hue than others near them ; I have called them
the Direction Hills; because, after passing Cape Possession,
they afford a good mark for approaching the Narrows, which are
not visible until well across the bay ; by attention also to their
bearings, the shoal that extends off Cape Orange may be avoided.
To take up an anchorage on the bank, great attention must be
paid to the soundings, which at the edge decrease suddenly ; it
would not be advisable to anchor in less than 10 or 12 fathoms
at high water, for the tide falls 6 or 7 fathoms; but as the
stream runs much weaker on approaching the edge of the bank,
the nearer to it the better. A good berth for anchoring is to get
the northern Direction Hill (which is dark coloured and very
conspicuous) to bear S. 56° W., Mount Aymond N. 45° to 50^
W., and the highest (easternmost) peaked hillock upon Cape
Orange about S. S. E. (compass bearings). When the hill above
noticed bears S. 56° W., and Mount Aymond between N. 50° and
60° W.,* you are in 19 or 20 fathoms, just off the edge of the
bank ; about half to one mile more to the northward, or north-

• These bearings are by compass ; the variation of the needle is 2

001

;}

CAPE VIRGINS TO PORT FAMINE. %\

westward, good anchorage may be selected out of the strength of
the tide.

There is, however, a more advanced situation about half a
mile to the eastward of the end of the shoal, that may easily be
taken up ; namely, that where 14 fathoms is marked on the plan,
for which the following are the bearings — the

Northern Direction Hill . . S. 59° W

Mount Aymond . N. 43° W. \ Mag.

Peak of Cape Orange . . . S. 22° E.
One mile more in advance to the S. W. would still be a better
berth, but great care must be taken not to around on the tail of
the shoal. At about half a mile more to the eastward, the
situation would be more secure.

Should the distant land behind Cape Gregory be seen, which Mni]«'°r

1 ° J ' • Anchorage.

makes with a long blue level strip of land, terminating at its
S. W, end with rather a bluff or precipitous fall, it is a good
mark for the above anchorage. The fall, or extremity, should be
visible in the space between the southernmost and central of the
Direction Hills. There is also a conspicuous lump on the same
land, which will be seen to the northward of the northern Direction
Hill ; and the Asses Ears, nearly out of sight, should be seen a
little to the eastward of that part of the shore of Possession
Bay where the cliffy coast commences.

Another mark for the approach to the bank, which is very
good when Mount Aymond bears more westerly than N. 43° W.
mag., is, not to lose sight of the Asses Ears. At our anchorage in 6
fathoms, near the dry part, of the bank, they were lost sight of by
a rise in the land; half a mile to the southward, at the anchorage
marked 11 fathoms, one of them reappeared above the land;
Mount Aymond at the same time bearing by compass N 41° W.
mag. But this rule fails to the westward, or nearer the Narrow, for
the bank then trends more southerly, and the Asses Ears are visible
at its edo-e ; the west limit of this rule is, as before noticed, when
Mount Aymond bears about N. 43° W. mag. There is, also,
another remark worth attending to ; which is, that, after passing
Cape Possession, Mount Aymond assumes the appearance of a
round obtusely-peaked hill, with a smaller elevation on each
edge of its outline; which appearance is preserved until it bears

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Reef off Cape
Orange.

First Narrow.

N. 50° W. mag., and then the easternmost of the minor elevations
gradually disappears, while the western one becomes more con*
spicuous.

To avoid the north shoals, do not get the North Direction
Hill to bear more southerly than S. ,56° W. mag. ; and the mark
for avoiding the reefs that extend off Cape Orange, is not
to get the same Direction Hill to bear more westerly than
W. by S. \ S. mag. (for W. by S. \ S. will just pass without the
edge) until Mount Aymond bears N. 48° W. ma^.,orthepeak of
Cape Orange South mag., when the fair way of the First Narrow
will be open, bearing S. W. by S. mag. The north or north-
western side of the First Narrow, is a cliff, of moderate height, and
makes like a flat table land. When abreast of Cape Orange, a
S. S. W. mag. course must be steered. The tide sets right
through ; so that in drifting, which with the wind against the tide
is the safest and best plan, there is no danger of being thrown
upon the shoals.

The First Narrow was called by Sarmiento, Angostura de
Nuestra Seiiora de Esperanza. He describes it very correctly to be
three leagues long, and less than half a league wide, with cliffy
shores ; the tide running strong ; the depth more than 50 fathoms
sand and pebbles (callao) ; and on the north shore there is a beach
of shingle.* In this part, however, as discretion must be the best
guide, it will be necessary merely to state the dangers that exist. To
Point Deigada the north of Point Delgada (meaning thin or slender) the shore
is fronted by extensive shoals that dry at half tide, and which, being
dry when Sarmiento passed, was called by him Point Anegada
(drowned land) ; these should not be approached. The south shore
also, for nearly five miles to the west of Cape Orange, has a shoal
off it, but it does not extend to a great distance from the beach ;
beyond this it is not safe to approach either shore within half a
mile, for each is fronted by a bank that dries at low water. The
western end of the Narrow on the north shore, Sarmiento's Point
Barranca (meaning a cliff) has a considerable reef off it, upon
which there is a very large quantity of kelp.

After emerging from the Narrow, the ship should be allowed

Point Bar
ranca.

■Direction*,

* Sarmiento, p, 278»

CAPE VIRGINS TO PORT FAMINE. $

to drift with the tide, the course of which is S. 8. W., for at least

three miles, before hauling up for Cape Gregory, in order to avoid

the ripplings which rage furiously on each edge of the bank. I

have passed twice through them for the sake of proving the depth,

and once anchored within them, which gave me an opportunity Riseaiul f.,,lof

of ascertaining the rise and fall of the tide ; but it only altered tht' tide-

twelve feet : the stream or current, however, set at three and four

knots the whole tide, and there was scarcely five minutes slack

water. It is an anchorage that ought not to be taken up without

the greatest necessity, for the ripplings break oyer the deck, and

the security of the vessel is very doubtful.

Point Barranca is a flat-topped sand hill, the position of which
being given in the chart, its bearing will indicate the situation of
the ship : the point on the opposite side Sarmiento called Point
Baxa (low).*

After reaching thus far, steer W. S. W. by compass, until Aneborage.
abreast of some remarkable peaked hillocks on the north shore ;
where, if necessary, anchorage may be had out of the tide, in
from 6 to 10 fathoms; at any part of the northern side of the
bay the anchorage is good, upon a clay bottom covered with
broken shells : the lead brings up nothing but shells, underneath,
however, it is of clay and good holding ground.

It is best to anchor near the shore on account of the tide, which
ripples very much all over the centre of the bay.

The peaked hillock above mentioned is certainly Sarmiento's
Point Nuestra Sehora del Valle ; to the eastward of it is St. Jago
Bay; and to the westward his Bay of the Eleven Thousand
Virgins.^ When abreast of the point, the land and bay to the
north of Cape Gregory will be easily distinguished; the former Cape Gregory,
will be seen first, and resembles an island ; for the land of the
bay is flat and low : but a very conspicuous hummock will also
be seen half way between it and the flat table land, as soon as
the land of the cape becomes visible. The hummock is marked
on the chart.

The extremity of Cape Gregory bears from the western end of
the First Narrow, S, 73° W, (S. 50' f W, mag,), distant twenty.

• Sarmiento, p. 2T3. t Ibid, 263,

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Anchorage
under Cape
Gregory.

Situation.

Patagonian
Indians,

two miles. The anchorage is from two to two miles and
a half to the N. N. E. of the cape, abreast of the north end of
the sand hills that form the headland, and at about one mile from
the shore, in from 1 3 to 15 fathoms. The bottom is excellent, a
soft but tenacious mud, which, nearer the shore, is of a stiffer
quality. At low water a sand spit extends off for one-third
or nearly half a mile from the shore ; close to which there is 7
fathoms water. Care should be taken not to approach too near.

At the anchorage the tide turns to the south-westward, towards
the cape, for two and a half or three hours before it begins to
run to the westward in the Second Narrow ; which should be
attended to, for a ship will lose much ground by weighing before
an hour or more after the tide has turned.

Upon the summit of the land of the cape, four-fifths of a mile
to the northward of the extreme point, is a remarkable bush ;
close to which the observations were made. The bush is in lat.
52° 38' 3" S. and Ion. 70c 9' 51" W. The variation of the com-
pass 23° 34' £.

The country abounds with guanacoes and ostriches, and the
valley, two miles to the westward of the cape, is frequent! v the
abode of the Patagonian Indians; but their principal residence is
upon the low land at the back of Peckett's Harbour and Quoin
Hill, where guanacoes are more abundant, and the country more
open. Ships coming from the southward also are seen by them at
a great distance, so that by the time she reaches Cape Gregory
they have already arrived to meet her. They do not, however,
see ships coming from the eastward so easily, and we were, on
two occasions, two or three days at the anchorage before it was
known that we were present.

They are very friendly, and will supply guanaco meat at a
small price. They are fond of beads and ornaments, but particularly
of knives, and the larger they are the better. Swords are held
in high estimation by them, as well as lead for the purpose of
arming their bolas, an instrument used to entangle the legs of the
guanacoes and ostriches.

They also barter their mantles and skins ; and are fond of sugar,
flour, matte (the Paraguay tea), tobacco, and horse gear, par-
ticularly bits. For spirits they are very eager, but are contented

CAPE VIRGINS TO PORT FAMINE. 25

with it in a diluted state. At our last interview thev asked for
muskets, powder, and ball ; the use of which thev have learned
from two Portuguese seamen, who left an EnoTish sealing vessel
to reside with them ; but these were not given, and it is to be
hoped that such weapons will not be put into their hands.

The Second Narrow is about ten miles long; and, with a SecondNar-
favourable tide, which runs five or six knots, is very quickly
passed. With an adverse wind a ship will easily reach an anchor-
age to the north of Elizabeth Island.

The north side of the Second Narrow is very shoal, and ought
not to be approached, for the ground is also very foul.* There
are two or three very inviting bights for a ship that is caught
with the tide, but it is not advisable to anchor in them : she
should rather return to the anchorage off Cape Gregory.

Susannah Cove is where Sarmiento anchored" in 8 fathoms, Susannah Cove
low water, half a league from the land, good bottom ; but, as
it was exposed to the strength of the tide, he shifted to another
anchorage about half a league west of Cape Gregory, where
the anchor was dropped in 8 fathoms, but the vessel tailing on
the edge of the shoal in 3 fathoms, he was glad to make his
escape.*f*

The south shore of the Second Narrow, which Narborough
called the Sweepstakes Foreland, is composed of cliffs, and Sweepstake
is, I believe, of bold approach. The projecting head in the horel:,nd-
centre is Sarmiento's St. Simon's Head,+ and the western end
he named Cape St. Vincent, from its resemblance to that of
Spain. To the southward of the eastern point of this head,
Point St. Isidro,g which is a low sandy point, is Fish Cove, FishCove<
where Bulkely and Cummings anchored their boat : and Sar-
miento says "We anchored behind a point before not iced, called
Santisidro, in a small bay, of low land and sandy beach, in 10

* Sarmiento says, « y sea aviso que toda la Bahia que esta come dixe desde la
Bahvi de San Gregorio J Punta de Nuestra Senora-de-Gracia paratierra, es placel de
dos hasta quatro brazas. No se arrime a esta Costa el Navio que por aquf embocare,
porque correra riesgo ; antes surja a media canal, d & la menos no surja de doce
brazas abaxo, porque en siendo en ocbo, a un cumplidor de dos bateles dara en tres y
en menos, y de baxa mar quedara en seco."— Sarmiento, p. 260.

f Ibid, p. 256 and 257. J Ibid, p. 257. § Ibid, p. 263.

Fish Cove,

Oazy Harbour.

Peckett's
Harbour,

Bay north of

Elizabeth

Island,

Tides.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAEN9,

fathoms, at a quarter of a league from the shore, but upon veering
cable the vessel was in 7 fathoms; so that fearing she would
be left dry, from the great rise and fall of the tides hereaboul,
we shifted farther out to 15 fathoms, but the anchor dragged,
and we subsequently came to in 9 fathoms, sandy bottom ;
where, at low water, the depth was 6 fathoms."*

Three miles to the westward of Cape Gracia, the western end
of the Second Narrow on the north side, is Oazy Harbour, so
called by Narborough : it is a secure place for small vessels. The
entrance is nearly two miles long, and too narrow for large ships,
unless the weather be moderate, when they might drop in or out
with the tide: the depth inside is from 3 to 10 fathoms. There
is neither wood nor water to be got, and therefore no induce-
ment to enter it ; a plan of it was made. It is described by Sir
J. Narborough,*!' and Cordova calls it Bird Bay (Ensenada de los
Paxaros).*

Narborough's Peckett's Harbour, or, as Sarmiento called
it, St. Bartholomew's Bay, is eight miles to the west of Cape
Gracia, and, although very shoal, offers a good shelter, if re-
quired, for small vessels ; but the space is very confined ; the
anchorage without is almost as safe, and much more convenient.
The distance between the two points of entrance is nearly two
miles, but from the north-east shore to the small island off the
south-west point, the whole space is a shoal, upon the greater
part of which the sea breaks in a moderate breeze.

The entrance is between the south-west point and the island,
and is rather more than one-fifth of a mile wide. Half a mile
outside, the anchorage is good in 7 fathoms : shoal ground ex-
tends for a quarter of a mile off' the point.

The bay, which is formed by Peckett's Harbour and Elizabeth
Island, is extensive and well sheltered, with an easy depth of water
all over, between 5 and 7 fathoms ; the nature of the bottom is
clay, and offers excellent holding ground. In the centre is a
patch of kelp; but it is not known whether the depth isshoaler in
that part, or whether it proceeds from the bottom being rocky.

The tide is not strong to the westward of the north end of

* Sarmiento, p. 2GT. + Narborougb,p. 62 and 124.

f Ultimo Viage, p, 107.

CAPE VIRGINS TO PORT FAMINE. 27

Elizabeth Island ;* but runs with considerable velocity in the Tides.
deep channel between it and the Second Narrow. To the south-
ward of the island the stream divides into two directions, and
very soon loses its strength • one sets down the south side of the
island, and the other between the islands of Santa Martha and
Magdalena, This is the flood ; the ebb sets to the northward.
The ebb and flow is regular, high water at the full and change
being at about twelve o'clock.

There is good anchorage, out of the strength of tide, at a tnile
to the north of Point San Silvestre ; it is convenient for a ship to
leave with the intention of passing round Elizabeth Island. 1
conceive this to be the most difficult part of the entrance of the
Strait of Magalhaens, for the tide sets across the passage with some
strength.

The passage to the west of the island is clear, and without Directions,
danger, by keeping in the middle part of the channel ; but in
passing down the south side of Elizabeth Island the shore should
be kept close to, to avoid being thrown upon the islands of Santa
Martha and Magdalena,^ although I believe there is plenty of
water between them, for Sarmiento anchored there in 15 fa1homs;+
as well as to clear the shoal that extends off the south-west
end of the latter island,^ upon which we did not find less water
than 5 fathoms upon any part ; but the ground being irregular,
and much kelp strewed about, it is not safe to trust too much
to appearances. On all occasions it is advisable to avoid passing Avoid kelp.
through kelp, for although it frequently shoots up from 10 and
even 20 fathoms, yet wherever the bottom is rocky, there it is to
be found. The presence of this vegetable renders the few
dangers that exist in the navigation of the strait of little con-
sequence, for it serves as a buoy to mark the existence of them,
and it is only by a careless look out that a ship can be placed in a

* Elizabeth Island was so named by Sir Francis Drake. Sarmionto passed its
north-east end, and, considering it a part of the Continent, culled it Point San
Silvestre. (Sarmiento, p. 255.)

t The Islands of Santa Martha and Magdalena, so named by Sarmiento (p. U4)j
have since been called by other names : j the former St. Bartholomew, the latter St.
George's, also Penguin Island. (See Narborough's Voyage, p. (12.)

$ Sarmiento, p. 254.

§ Hawkeswortb, v. i, \\ 382, and Ultimo Viage, Appendice, p. 22.

28 STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

dangerous situation. Another advantage in kelp is, that by its
drift it shews both the direction and velocity of the tide.
Laredo Bay. Laredo Bay offers good anchorage in the centre and towards

the north side, and particularly in the north-west corner. Off
the south point is a large patch of kelp, among which the ground
is shoal and foul.

At Laredo Bay wood may be procured, and there is a fresh
water lake of a mile in diameter at about half a mile behind the
beach, much frequented by wild ducks.

For the purpose of anchorage only, the bay need not be

entered ; because a very good and secure birth may be found at

from one to two miles off it, in 10 to 13 fathoms, having the

south-west extremity of Elizabeth Island on with, or a little open

of, the trend of Cape Negro, which is Byron's Porpesse Point.*

Cape st. Vin- \^e ]ai0w scarcely any thing of the south side of St. Philip's

Moumouth. Bay, or of the coast between Cape St. Vincent and Cape

Monmouth. The latter is a lee shore, and should not be approached

when the wind is northerly, for there seems to be no harbour or

shelter, and the anchorage must be much exposed.

Opening be- Two deep inlets were seen behind Sweepstakes Foreland,

stakes Fore- from the summit of the table land near Cape Gregory, one of

,and- which may probably insulate it, but this was not ascertained.

Coast to the Between Cape Negro and Sandy Point, which is Sarmiento's

Negro" die Catalina Bay,«f* good anchorage may be had, from one to two

miles and a half from the shore. Here the country begins to

be thickly wooded, and to assume a very picturesque appearance,

particularly in the vicinity of Sandy Point.

Sandv Point. Sandy Point, Sarmiento's Cape de San Antonio de Padua,

projects for more than a mile from the line of coast, and should

not be passed within a mile. A shoal projects off it in an east

direction (mag.) : the mark for its south edge is a single tree,

on a remarkable clear part of the country (a park like meadow)

near the shore on the south side of the point, in a line with a

deep ravine in the mountain behind. One mile and a half from

the point, we had no bottom with 18 fathoms.

Anchorage. To the southward of Sandy Point, as far as Point St. Mary,

• Hawkeswortb, i. p. 35 + Sarmiento, p. 255,

CAPE VIRGINS TO PORT FAMINE. 29

good anchorage may be had at three quarters of a mile from the

shore, in 11 and 12 fathoms; sand and shells over clay. At the

edge of the kelp, which fronts the shore, there is 5 and 6 fathoms ;

so that, with the wind offshore, a ship may anchor or sail along

it very close to the coast, by keeping outside the kelp. The Squalls off the

squalls off the land are very strong, sometimes so much so as to lay high 1;u"1,

a ship on her broadside. It is not prudent therefore to carry

much sail in coasting this part; and it is necessary to have the

quarter boats secured with gripes, because the wind, for a

moment, blows with the force of a hurricane. These land squalls

are denominated by the sealers " williwaws."

Point St. Mary, in lat. 53° 21' 40", is twelve miles and a half PointSfcMarj.
to the south of Sandy Point, and may be known by the land
trending in to the southward of it, forming Fresh Water Bay. Freshwater

Ti-
lt has also a high bank close to the beach, with two patches bare

of trees, excepting a few dead stumps. All the points to the

northward are low and thickly wooded. As the bay opens, the

bluff points at its south end become visible. There is also a

remarkable round hill a short distance behind the centre of the

bay, and a valley to the south of it, through which a river flows

and falls into the bay.

It is convenient for wooding at, but from the river being blocked
up by much drift timber, watering is difficult ; the proximity, how-
ever, of Port Famine renders this of no material consequence.

When the wind is from the northward, a swell is thrown into
the bay ; but no danger need be apprehended from its being open
to the eastward, for the wind seldom blows from that quarter,
excepting in the winter, and then rarely with great strength. If
it does, the holding ground is good, and with good gear there is
no danger.

In standing into the bay from the northward, keep within three Directions for
quarters to half a mile from the coast, in 10 or 11 fathoms;
and, passing Point St. Mary, steer on towards the bluff points at
the south end of the bay, until the south pitch of the Centre Mount
bears W. S. W., when you will be clear of the kelp that extends
off the north side of the bay; among which I believe there is a
sufficiency of water, but the ground is foul : round its edge there
is 6 and 7 fathoms. Having the mount bearing as above, steer

Point Santa
Annu.

Tides.

N. 15° W.'
N. 9° W.
S. 74°iW.
S.35°W.
S. 21° E.

Mag.

30 STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Anchoring. for it, or k little to the south of it, and anchor in 9 fathoms, sandy
mud over clay, which will be with the following bearings :
Point St. Mary .
Outer trend

Centre Mount (south pitch) .
Entrance of River
South bluff

A good berth may be had much nearer the shore in G fathoms,
towards which the depth gradually decreases. If the anchorage
is used merely as a stopping place, the first is best ; for the
wind near the shore is apt to flaw and veer about.

Between Freshwater Bay and Point Santa Anna the coast is very
bold, and so steep too as to offer no anchorage, excepting in the
Rocky Bay. bay that is formed by the reef off Rocky Point ; but it is small
and inconvenient to weigh from, should the wind be southerly.

Should the day be advanced, it is better to anchor in Fresh-
water Bay than run the risk of being underway all night ; unless
it be in the summer, with moonlight and the weather likely to
be fine ; in this climate, however, the latter is very doubtful, for
weather changes so suddenly that no dependance can be placed
upon appearances.

Point Santa Anna will appear, on standing down near the
coast, to be the termination of the land ; it is a long point extending
into the sea, having at the extremity a clump of trees. It bears
from Cape Valentyn S. 47|° W. mag. On approaching it, the
the distant point of Cape St. Isidro will be seen beyond it ; but
there can be no doubt on mistake in recopnisinp; it.

Along the whole extent of the coast, between Point Santa
Anna and Elizabeth Island, the flood sets to the southward and
the ebb to the northward, and it is high water about 12 o'clock
at full and change. The variation is about 23° west. The
strength of the tide is not great, but frequently after a southerly
wind there is, in the offing, a current to the northward independant
of the tide. In winter the tides occasionally rise very high, and
on one occasion, in the month of June, nearly overflowed the
whole of the low land on the west side.
Port Famine. Port Famine,— Standing into Port Famine, pass round Point

CAPE VIRGINS TO PORT FAMINE. 31

Santa Anna, if with a leading wind, at one fifth of a mile, in 17 Port Famine.

fathoms ; but if the wind is scanty, do not get too near on account

of the eddy tide, which sometimes sets towards the point. Steer

in for the bottom of the bay, for the summit of Mount St. Philip,

keeping it over the centre of the depth of the bay; that is, half

way between the rivulet (which will be easily distinguished by a

small break in the trees) and the N. W. end of the clear bank on

the west side of the bay. This bank being- clear of trees, and

covered with grass, is very conspicuous. Keep on this course until

the mouth of Sedger River is open, and upon shutting in the

points of ils entrance, shorten sail and anchor in 9, 8, or 7 Anchorage.

fathoms, as convenient. The best berth, in the summer, is to

anchor over towards the west side in 9 fathoms, with Cape Ya-

lentyn in a line with Point Santa Anna ; but in the winter season

with N. E. winds, the best berth is more in the centre of the bay.

The strongest winds are from the S. W. It blows also hard Winds,
sometimes from South, and, occasionally, a fresh gale out of the
vallev, to the south of Mount St. Philip. Unless a long stay
be meditated, it would be sufficient to moor with a kedge to the
N. E. ; the ground is excellent all over the port, being a stiff te-
nacious clay. Landing may be almost always effected, excepting
in easlerly gales, on one side or the other. There is fire wood in Wood and
abundance on the beaches, and wells, containing excellent fresh wae1,
water, were dug by us at the N. W. extremity of the clear
part of Point Santa Anna, on the bank above the third, or western-
most, small shingle bav. The water of the river, as well as of the
ponds, of which there are many upon the flat shore of the western
side of the port, is very good for present use, but will not keep,
in consequence of its flowing through an immense mass of de-
composed vegetable matter; but the water of the wells drain
through the ground, and not only keeps well, but is remarkably
clear and well tasted. Their situation is marked on the plan,
and for some time our traces will not fail to show the road.

Our observatory, the situation of which is indicated by the stem Situation.
of a tree 16 inches in diameter, placed upright about eight feet
under and three above the ground, banked up by a mound,
is in lat. 53° 38' 12" and 70° 54'. High-water at full and change

32 STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Tides at Port at 12 o'clock; the ebb sets to the northward, and the flood to the
southward ; but the rise and fall is very irregular, depending
entirely upon the prevalence of the winds ; northerly and east-
erly winds causing high tides, and westerly and south-westerly
low tides. The variation is about 23* 30'.

Tides from Of the tides in Possession Bay and the First Narrow, we have

to EHzabetfi na(l *°° nt^e experience to enable us to give a very clear account.

island. j s|m]| tlierefore here confine myself merely to such observations

as may be of service to the navigator.

To the south-east of Cape Possession it is high water at 4h 56'
before the moon's passage; but the stream of tide continues to run
in until two hours after the water has ceased to rise : the easterly
tide commences at2h 56' before the culmination.

The same is the case as far as, and even in, the First Narrow ;
excepting in the times. In the centre of Possession Bay, near the
bank, it was high water at 3h 51' before the moon's passage, and
the tide turned to the eastward at noon, orOh39' after the passage.
This observation was made on the day of full moon. The rise
was twenty-eight feet, but, at an anchorage more to the west-
ward, near the south-west end of the bank, it rose thirty-five feet,
and ran at the rate of six knots and a quarter, in the First Nar-
row the eastern tide commences at noon (full and change).

At the anchorage in Gregory Bay the easterly tide commenced
twenty minutes earlier than in the First Narrow. In the Second
Narrow the tides are two and a half or three hours later before
they turn (see p. 24). To the westward of the Second Narrow high
and low water take place regularly with the set of the tide, and the
former occurs, at full and change, within a few minutes of noon.
The rise and fall is inconsiderable ; the greatest we experienced
was eight feet.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS. oc

SECTION III.

Strait of MAGALHAENS — Dawson Island— Admiralty
Sound, the Gabriel, Cockburn, and Barbara Channels.

Useless Bay was examined in the hope of its communicating Useless Bay.
with the supposed St. Sebastian Channel, of the old charts; but
it proved to be terminated by low land, reaching-, perhaps,
across the country towards Cape St. Espiritu Santo. It is more
than 30 miles deep and from 12 to 20 wide, and entirely
exposed to the S. W. The north shore affords no shelter, but
on the south there is an indentation of the coast line under the hill
called Nose Peak, that may possibly afford a sheltered anchor-
age.

The termination of the flat table ridge, extending to the
the N. E. from Point Boqueron, a name of Sarmiento's, meaning
— an opening, is abrupt and very precipitous.

This country abounds with guanacoes, and the Indians are
probably more dependant on hunting than fishing for their
subsistence, for we observed their fires upon the hills, at a dis-
tance from the coast.

Dawson Island, which fronts Useless Bay, and the deep in- Dawson
let called Admiralty Sound, is forty-six miles long and about
twenty broad. Its northern extremity, Cape Valentyn, is low,
but becomes visible in passing down ^he opposite shore, between
Sandy Point, and Freshwater Bay. Mount Graves, however,
is seen from a much greater distance. On the western side of
the Island there are but two places in which vessels can anchor;
viz., Lomas Bay and Port San Antonio, but both being on a
lee shore, they are not to be recommended. Lomas Bay is a deep

Port San
Antonio.

34 STRAIT OP MAGALHAENS.

Lomas Bay. bight, sufficiently sheltered from S. W., but quite exposed to the
north-west and westerly winds, which, during the winter, are
the most prevalent.

Lieutenant Graves remarks that Lomas Bay, although only
tolerably sheltered from the prevailing winds, would, from its
extent (six miles deep) and nature of the bottom, a stiff blue
clay, afford good shelter for vessels of any draft or burden.
The appearance of the shores also seem to favour such an opinion,
for scarcely any drift wood was found thrown up, even in those
parts which were most exposed to the surf. Wood is sufficiently
plentiful and water very abundant. This Bay appears at certain
seasons to be much resorted to by the Indians, for upwards of
twenty wigwams were seen near the beach.

Between Lomas Bay and Cape St. Valentyn, there is no landing,
even for a boat, excepting at Preservation Cave, which affords
only just room enough to beach one of small size.

Port San Antonio, which is situated about the centre of the
west coast, opposite to San Nicholas Bay, has the appearance of
being well sheltered, but during a fortnight that we spent there
we experienced so much inconvenience, and even risk, from the
violence of the squalls, that we were obliged to secure the vessel
with three anchors. We also found some difficulty in leaving
it, on account of the baffling winds, as well as the narrow width
of the passage, for we went out by the north entrance.

This place received the distinguishing epithet of Port from
Cordova, and is described by him to be three quarters of a mile
wide ; instead of which, it is scarcely one third of that width, and
deserves the name only of a Cove. It is a very unfit place for a
ship, or, indeed, for any vessel to enter, especially when there
are so many much better places on the opposite or continental
shore.
Anchorage. The anchorage is formed by a channel within the islands,

North Island and San Juan Island, in which, particularly at the
north end, are several islets. The anchor may be dropped in
from 10 to 15 fathoms, off a small beach in Humming-Bird
Cove, which is situated on the inner side, and about half a mile
from the south end, of San Juan Island. From the west end of
North Island a reef extends off for a quarter of a mile, and to the

DAWSON ISLAND. ™

southward are two small islets, which may be passed on either side. Port San
North Island is separated from San Juan Island by a narrow and Ant0Dl0'
impassable strait.

The south entrance is, perhaps, the best, although with a
northerly wind the northern should be preferred. There is no
danger but what is evident ; the ground, however, is not very clean
until you reach Humming-Bird Cove.

The south entrance is tolerably wide: in entering, haul
round the south point of San Juan Island, for near the shore
of the eastern side there is a rock under water. Opposite 1<>
Humming-Bird Cove, in a small bight, there is a stream of fresh
water.

Port Valdez is a deep inlet, fronting W. N. W., and not at Port Vaidez.
all inviting to enter ; from the appearance of the hills, squalls
must be very frequent, and blow with the greatest violence ; for
trees are seen torn up by the roots, in long lines, evidently caused
by the destructive force of the wind.

The ebb tide sets to the north through the channel.

The Gabriel Channel separates Dawson Island from the Gabriel CLai-
Tierra del Fucgo. It is merely a ravine of the slate forma- ne '
tion, into which the water has found its way and insulated the
island. It extends precisely in the direction of the strata, with
almost parallel shores. It is twenty-five miles long and from
half a mile to one mile and a half wide; the narrowest part being
in the centre. The north shore is a ridge of slate, rising abruptly
to a sharp edge, and then as abruptly descending on the opposite
side where it forms a valley ; which, had it been a little deeper,
would, have been filled by water and have become another
channel like the Gabriel.

The south side of the Gabriel Channel is formed by a high
mass of mountains, probably the most elevated land in the Tierra
del Fuego. Among many of its high peaks are two more con-
spicuous than the rest, Mount Saemiento, and Mount Buck- Mount S:ir
land. The first is 6,800 feet high, and, rising from a broad "^"to.
base, terminates in two peaked summits, bearing from each other
N. E. and S. W., and are about a quarter of a mile asunder.
From the northward it appears very much like the crater of a
Volcano; but when viewed from the westward, the two peaks

Mount Sar-
miento.

Mount Buck-
land.

Port Cooke.

Brookes Har-
bour.

Admiralty
Sound.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

are in a line, and its volcanic resemblance ceases. It is noticed
bv Sarmiento as well as by Cordova, in the Journals of their
respective voyages. Sarmiento calls it Volcan nevado (the
Snowy Volcano/)

It is the most remarkable mountain in the strait; but, from the
state of the climate and its being clothed with perpetual snows,
it is almost always enveloped in condensed vapour. During
a low temperature, however, particularly with a N. E. or S. E.
wind, when the sky is often cloudless, it is exposed to view, and
presents a magnificent appearance. From its great height and
situation it served our purpose admirably to connect the points
of the survey. It was seen, and bearings of it were taken, from
the following: distant stations, viz. Elizabeth Island, Port Famine,
Cape Holland, Fort Gallant, and Mount Skyring, at the south
entrance of the Barbara Channel.

Mount Buckland is, by estimation, about 4,000 feet high.
It is a pyramidal block of slate, with a sharp pointed apex, and
entirelv covered with perpetual snow.

Between these mountains the summit of the range is occupied
by an extensive glacier ; the constant dissolution of which feeds
the innumerable cascades that pour large bodies of water down
the rocky precipices overhanging the south shore of the Gabriel
Channel.

At the extremity of the channel is Fitton Harbour ; and on
the opposite side of Cape Rowlett are Port Cooke and Brookes
Harbour.

Pobt Cooke is a very convenient and useful port. It is
sheltered by a high wooded island. The anchorage is off the
rivulet on the west side, in 9 fathoms.

Brookes Harbour, like Fitton Harbour, is spacious, but not
good as a port, for the water is deep and the anchorages, being in
coves, are not easy of access without the labour of towing.

Admiralty Sound extends for forty-three miles to the S. E.,
into the land of Tierra del Fuego. It is seven miles wide at the
entrance and gradually diminishes to three. On its north side
the shore is very straight, but the south side has two deep inlets,

Sarmiento, p. 224«

ADMIRALTY SOUND. 37

Amsworth and Parry Harbours. It terminates in a bay ; afford- Admiralty
ing anchorage in from 10 to 15 fathoms, but very much ex- °un '
posed to N. W. winds, which, I should think, from the funnel
shape of the Sound, would blow with furious strength. On the
north side of the bay is Mount Hope, a lofty insulated mass of
rock, but to the south of it lies a considerable track of low land ;
over which the view was unobstructed for a considerable distance
and was bounded by a distant mountain, in the direction of the
position of Captain Basil Hall's Volcano, in lat. 54° 48', Ion.
68° 00'. If the Volcano exists, it is most probably the above volcano seen
mountain, but we saw nothing to indicate the appearance of its by CaPt Hal!-
being in an eruptive state. It is placed on the Chart from Cap-
tain Hall's authority.

In Ainsworth Harbour there is anchorage at the bottom, on Ainswortb
the west side. The mountains at the back of the harbour are Harbour-
capped by an enormous glacier that descends into the sea.

Parry Harbour is about five miles deep and three wide; at Parry Harbour,
the entrance, on the west side, are two coves, either of which
offer a convenient stopping place for a small vessel.

The eastern side of Dawson Island is very much intersected
by deep inlets, particularly Brenton Sound, and its termination,
Port Owen, which very nearly communicates with Lomas Bay :
the dividing land being low and marshy.

The large central island in Brenton Sound, Wicrham Island, Wicfcham

0 . . Island.

is high, and there is a remarkably sharp-peaked hill upon it,

which is seen in clear weather from Port Famine.

Non-entry Bay was not examined ; it appeared to offer snug Non-entry
anchorage ; the depth between the points of entrance was from
9 to 19 fathoms.

Fox Bay. The bottom and south side are shoal, but the Fox Bay.
banks are indicated by kelp. A rapid stream of water empties
itself into the bay The anchorage in Fox Bay is in from 3 to 5
fathoms. The north head, Steep-Tree Bluff, is of bold approach :
within twenty yards of the shore the depth is 9 fathoms.

Harriss Bay is an indenture of the coast, two miles deep. Harrlss n.»y.

Willes Bay, off which is Offing Island, by which it may WMesBay.
be known, although of small extent, affords excellent anchorage,
upon a mud bottom, in 9 or 10 fathoms. The tide rises and falls

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS,

Cape St. Va.
lentyn.

Magdalen
Sound.

WiliesBay. about six feet. It is high water, at full and change, about 12
o'clock. At the bottom of Willes Bay is Philip Gidley Cove,
where a small vessel may lie in perfect security- There are not
less than 3 fathoms in the entrance, and inside, in most parts,
there is the same depth.

Cape St. Valentyn is the northern extremity of Dawson
Island. It is low, and has a small hummock near the point.
Between the two points which form the cape, there is a slight
incurvation of the shore, which would afford shelter to small
vessels from any wind to the southward of east or west ; but the
water is shoal, and the beach, below high water mark, is of large
stones. The coast to the south-west is open, and perfectly un-
sheltered ; is is backed by cliffs : the beach is of shingle.

The opening of Magdalen Sound was first noticed by Sar
miento.* Coming from the northward, it appears to be a con-
tinuation of the strait, and it is not until after passing Cape San
Tsidro that the true channel becomes evident, It extends in a
southerly direction for twenty miles, and is bounded on either side
by high and precipitous hills, particularly on the west shore.
The eastern entrance of the sound, Anxious Point, is a low
narrow tongue of land, with an island off it. Opposite to it is a
steep mountain, called by Sarmiento the Vernal (or summer-
house), from a remarkable lump of rock on its summit.^*

Under this mountain is Hope Harbour ; a convenient stopping
place for small vessels bound through the sound. The entrance
is narrow, with kelp across it, indicating a rocky bed, on which
we had not less than 7 fathoms. Inside it opens into a spacious
basin, with good anchorage in 4 fathoms, sheltered from all
winds, excepting the squalls off the high land, which must blow
with furious violence during a south-westerly gale. This little
port is much frequented by Indians, for we found many wigwams
on the south side, some of which were occupied by the women
and children of a tribe, the men being absent on a fishing ex-
cursion.

To the south of Hope Harbour, between the Vernal and Mount
Stokes's inlet. Boqueron, is Stokes's Inlet. It is three miles long, with deep

Hope Harbour

Sarmiento, p. 220

+ Ibid, 210, and Ultimo Viage, p. 121.

MAGDALEN SOUND. 39

water all over: there is a Cove on its nortli side, but neither so Stokes's Met.
good nor so accessible as Hope Harbour. In the entrance of
the inlet are three islets (Rees Islets).

Mount Boqueron, the extremity of which is Squally Point, is Mount
a very precipitous and lofty mountain, about 3000 feet high, and Bo,luerou'
having on its summit three small but remarkably conspicuous
peaks. It is the eastern head of Stokes's Inlet, and forms a part
of the western shore of Magdalen Sound. The squalls that blow
off this during a south-west gale are most furious, and dangerous
unless little sail be carried. On one occasion our decked sailing
boat was seven hours in passing it. The sound here is not more
than two miles and a half wide. On the opposite shore, within
Anxious Point, is an inlet extending to the south-east for two or
three miles, but it is narrow and unimportant.

Sholl Bay is a small bight of the coast line, five miles to the SholiBay.
south of Squally Point. There is a reef off it, the position of
which is pointed out by kelp.

On the opposite shore is Keats Sound. It extends to the Keats Sound.
south-east for six or eight miles, and is between four and five
miles wide.

In the centre of Magdalen Sound, abreast of the above open-
ing, is a rocky islet; and at a short distance to the southward, on
the western coast, is a bay and group, called Labyrinth Islands, Labyrinth
among which small vessels may find good anchorage.

Transition Bay is deep, and of little importance. Four Transition
miles farther, at Cape Turn, the shore trends suddenly round. 7'
Here Magdalen Sound terminates, and Cockburn Channel

commences.

On the opposite shore, to the south of Keats Sound, there are
no objects worth noticing, excepting Mount Sarmicnto, which
has been already described, page 35, and Pyramid Hill, which
was found to be 2500 feet high.

The bottom of Magdalen Sound is six miles wide, but at Cape
Turn the channel narrows to two miles, and in one part is not
more than one mile and two-thirds wide. The south shore is
much broken, and there are many sounds penetrating deeply into
the land, which, in this part, according to Captain Fitzroy's sur-
vey of Thieves Sound, is seven miles wide, Eleven miles more

Warp Bay.
Stormy Bay.

Park Bay.

King and Filz-
roy Islands.
Kirke's Rocks.

Tides.

Prowse

Islands.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

to the westward, at Courtenay Sound, the width of the peninsula
is not more than three miles.

Warp Bay, although exposed to Southerly winds, is a con-
venient stopping place : — a plan was made of it.

Stormy Bay is a very wild unsheltered place, unfit for any
vessel to stop at. At the anchorage the water is deep, 17 to 20
fathoms, and the bottom rocky. The Bay is strewed over with
shoals, the existence of which is marked by kelp : these narrow
the channel so much as to render the entrance and exit both
intricate and difficult for any but a small and handy vessel.

Park Bay is both very snug and secure, with good anchorage
in 12 fathoms, sand and mud. It has the same disadvantage
as Stormy Bay, in being on the lee side of the channel, and is,
therefore, difficult to leave. There is, however, here more
room to beat out, and no dangers to encounter but what are
visible. At the N. W, angle of the bay is a narrow isthmus, not
more than 500 yards across, separating it from Mercury Sound,
which was not examined. It is laid down from an eye sketch.

In working down the channel, the south side should be pre-
ferred, as it is a weather shore, and seems to be better provided
with coves and harbours to anchor in.

King and Fitzroy Islands in mid channel, are of bold ap-
proach ; as are also Kirke's Rocks more to the westward.

The flood tide sets to the southward, or to seaward, but was
not found to run with sufficient strength to benefit or impede a
vessel beating through. The rise and fall is also inconsiderable,
not being more than 6 or at most 8 feet at spring tides.

There are several anchorages among the Prowse Islands,
which are very numerous, and skirt the coast for several miles.
Behind them the land trends in and forms a deep sound. The
Adelaide Schooner anchored in a bay on the north side of one
of the Islands, opposite to Barrow Head, in 6 fathoms ; but there
are many places of a similar nature, equally convenient and
secure. A vessel, in want of anchorage, should hoist a boat
out and wait in the offing until one answering the purpose
be found. Entering these deep-water bays, a boat should always
be hoisted out, and a hawser kept ready to make fast to the shore.
It will be frequently necessary to tow up to the head of the bar-

COCKBURN CHANNEL, 41

bours; for, from the height of the land, the wind generally fails,
or becomes baffling.

The distance across the channel, between Prowse Islands and
Barrow Head, is scarcely one mile and a half.

Dyneley Sound extends for more than nine miles in a north- Dynely Sound,
west direction into the interior of Clarence Island. On the
west side of its entrance is a group of islands, affording several
anchorages, which the chart will point out. One of them, Eliza
Bay, offers shelter and security from all winds. The bottom of
Dynely Sound was not examined.

Melville Sound, which forms the embouchure of the Bar- Melville
bara and Cockburn channels, is very extensive, and is com- SounJ'
pletely filled with islands. Some of them are of large size, and
all are of the most rugged and desolate character. The offing
is strewed with clusters of rocks : of these the East and West East and West
Furies are the most remarkable, as well as the most important ;
for the passage into the Cockburn Channel lies between them.
The former are very near the land of Cape Schomberg. The
West Furies bear from the Tower Rock, off Cape Noir, N. 84°
E. twenty-five miles ; and S. 30° W. eleven miles from Mount
Skyring. The Tussac Rocks, which are two in number, bear Tussac Rocks.
from the West Furies N. 73° E., four and a half miles; and in a
line between the East and West Furies, three miles from the
latter, and two from the former, is a rock standing alone. It
bears from Mount Skyring S. 12° W. twelve miles and a half.
To avoid it, in entering with a westerly wind, pass near the West
Furies, and steer for the Tussac Rocks.

After passing these, there are no dangers, that we know of,
in the entrance of the Cockburn Channel. A reference to the
plan will shew every thing else that need be noted.

Mount Skyring is a very prominent object. It rises to a peak Mount
to the height of 3,000 feet ; and, being visible for a considerable Skyri" "'*
distance, was useful in connecting the triangulation of the strait
with that of the outer coast. It was seen from Field Bay, at the
north end of the Barbara Channel; and, from its summit, Cap-
tain Fitzroy obtained a bearing of Mount Sarmiento. Its sum-
mit is in lat. 54° 24' 44' and long. 72° 7 40". The variation situation.
is 25°,

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

South entrance
of the Barbara
Channel.

Magi 11 's
islands.
Tom's Har-
bour.

North Cove.

Fury Harbour.

Bynoe Island
and flewett
Bay.

Browns Bay,

North An-
chorage.

The southern entrance of the Barbara Channel is so very much
occupied by islands and rocks, that no direct channel can be per-
ceived. The chart must be referred to as the best guide for its
navigation. For small vessels there is neither danger nor diffi-
culty; there are numerous anchorages that they might reach
without trouble, and that would afford perfect security.

The land hereabouts is also described in Captain Fitzroy's
published views of the sea coast of Tierra del Fuego, which
contain excellent views of the land from Cape Pillar to its east-
ern extremity at Cape Diego. Section VII. contains the descrip-
tion of the coast, and references are therein made to the views
of the land in Captain Fitzroy's work.*

Among Magill's Islands there are several coves and anchor-
ages. Tom's Harbour is good and well sheltered, excepting
from the violent squalls off the high land, which are so frequent
every where among the Coves of Tierra del Fuego.

For Sealing vessels, however, it is more safe and secure than
Fury Harbour, the place they usually frequent. Every thing
that Fuegian Harbours afford is to be obtained in it. North
Cove was occupied by Captain Ftizroy in the Beagle. See
Section VII.

Fury Harbour, on the south-east side of the central Island
of Magill's group, is a very wild anchorage, (see Section VII.).
From its contiguity to the East and West Furies, and the Tussac
Rocks, on which seals are found, it is much frequented by-
sealing vessels.*f°

Bynoe Island affords an anchorage on its north-east side;
and Hewett Bay, of which a plan was made, is a good stop-
ping place either for entering or quitting the channel.

Browns Bay is more extensive, but also affords good shelter
in a small cove at the north entrance, in 8 fathoms sand, among
some kelp.

North Anchorage, for a small vessel, is tolerably secure,
but not to be recommended.

* Views of parts of the sea coast of Tierra del Fuego, taken on board His Ma-
jesty's surveying vessel Beagle, 1820 and 1830.

t Tn the winter of 1826-27, the Prince of Saxe Coburg sealer was wrecked in
Fury Harbour, and the crew saved by the Beagle's boats,

BARBARA CHANNEL. 43

Between Hewett Bay and North Anchorage, the channel is Channel be-
strewed with many rocks and shoals, some of which, although Bay^ndNotth
covered with kelp, only shew at half-tide. Much caution is Anchon'ge-
therefore necessary, and all patches of kelp should be carefully
avoided.

The tide, to the northward of North Anchorage, which, to Tide,
the southward, was not of sufficient consequence to interfere with
the navigation of the channels, is so much felt as to impede
vessels turning to windward against it.

The country here has a more agreeable appearance ; being Abearance
better wooded with beech and cypress trees ; but the latter are JJ^f JJ^J*"
stunted, and do not attain a greater height than fifteen or country.
eighteen feet. They are very serviceable for boat-hook spars,
boat's masts. &c. The wood, when seasoned, works up well.

Bedford Bay is a good anchorage. It is situated on the BodiordBuy.
north-west side of the narrow part of the channel. Its depth is
from 20 to 8 fathoms good holding ground, and perfectly shel-
tered from the prevailing winds. At its entrance are several
patches of kelp, the easternmost of which has 4 fathoms on it.
A plan was made, including the narrow channel ; which, as it
is a place likely to be frequented by vessels navigating the strait,
will be of service.

Here, as well as throughout the Barbara Channel, the flood Tide.
tide sets to the southward (Lieutenant Graves, M. S.).

Nutland Bay, having 8 and 15 fathoms over a sand and mud Nutiaud Bay.
bottom, may be known by two small islands, Hill's Islands,
which lie one mile N. N. E. from the anchorage.

Between Bedford and Nutland Bays, and, indeed, as far the
Shag narrows, the channel is open, and may be navigated without
impediment. There are many bays and inlets not here described
or noticed, that may be occupied, but almost all require to be
examined. They all trend far enough into; the land to afford
good shelter, but in many the bottom is foul and rocky, and the
water too deep for anchorage.

The western coast, being the windward shore, should, of course,

be preferred.

Field's Bay is too exposed to southerly winds to be re- Field Ba^
commended as a stopping place, unless the wind be northerly*

STRAIT OF MAGALIIAENS.

Nutlantl Bay is a more convenient place to start from with a
view of passing" the Narrows.

Broderip Bay. To the north of Nutland Bay is Broderip Bay • at the bottom,
or northern part of it, are some good coves ; but the most con-
venient of them is at the eastern extreme, it is called on the chart
Dinner Cove. It extends to the north for about a furlong', and
affords good anchorage in 10 fathoms, sufficiently well sheltered
and distant from high land to be free from the mountain squalls,
or willi-waws.

icy Sound. Round Dinner Cove is Icy Sound, a deep inlet with a glacier

of considerable extent at the bottom, from which large masses of
ice are constantly falling, and, drifting out, occupy the waters of
the inlet. The water is deep, and the anchorage not good when there

Dean Harbour, are so many better places. Dean Harbour is a considerable inlet
trending in under the same glacier, which extends from the head
of Smyth Harbour, to a considerable distance in the south-
west If of a favourable depth it might afford good anchorage.
We did not enter it.

The only navigable communication that exists between the
Barbara Channel and the Strait, is that called the Shag Narrows,
on the western side of Cayetano Island. The width of the open-
ing is at least one mile and three quarters, but the eastern portion
is so fdled with rocky islets and shoals, that the actual breadth
of the only navigable part at the northern end, is about 100
yards ; and the widest part at the south end, scarcely half a mile.
— The whole length of the passage being rather less than two
miles. It is formed on the west side by a projecting point of high
land, that gradually trends round to the westward ; and on the
opposite side by three islands, the northernmost of which is Wet
Island : on the southernmost is Mount Woodcock, one of our
stations for the Triangulation.

Between Wet Island, where the Narrows on the north side
commence, and the western shore, the width is not more than
100 to 150 yards, and perhaps 300 yards long. Through this
the tide sets as much as seven miles an hour ; the sides of the
rocks are steep to ; so, that I apprehend no accident can happen
to a ship in passing them, notwithstanding the want of room for
manoeuvring. At the south end of Wet Island, the stream of tide

Shag Narrows.

Mount Wood-
cock.

NORTH ENTRANCE OF THE BARBARA CHANNEL. 45

divides, — one sets to the eastward, round Wet Island, whilst the ShaK Narrows.

Tides.

principal runs through the Shag- Narrows. And in the same
manner, a part of the southern tide , which is the flood, after pass-
ing Wet Island, runs to the south-east, round the eastern side
of Mount Woodcock.

All the space to the Eastward of Mount Woodcock is so
strewed with islands and rocks, that the passage must be difficult
if not dangerous.

To avoid the danger of being thrown out of the Narrows, it is Directions.
only necessary to keep the western shore on board : where
*here are no indentations, the tide will carry a vessel alono- with
safety. At the north end of the Narrows, on the west side, is a
shelving point, on which there are 5 fathoms; — here there is an
eddy, but as soon as the vessel is once within the Narrows, (within
Wet Island), the mid channel may be kept. In shooting this
passage, it would be better to furl the sails and tow through, for
if the wind be strong, the eddies and violent squalls would be
very inconvenient, from their baffling, and laying the vessel unon
her beam ends ; which frequently happens, even though every
sail be furled. It will be necessary to have a couple of boats
out, ready, either to tow the ship's head round, or to prevent her
being thrown by the tide into the channel to the south of Wet
Island.

If anchorage be desirable after passing the Narrows, there is Anchorases
none to be recommended, until the coves between Smyth Har-
bour and Cape Beaufort be reached.

Of these, Dighton Cove is preferable. The anchorage is off Dighton Core.
the sandy beach, in 20 fathoms.

Warrington Cove, the next to the north, also offers good c^"'nston
shelter and anchorage, but both are exposed to easterly winds.

The tide in the Shag Narrows, at full and change, commences
to set to the Southward at 12 o'clock. In the Barbara Channel
the flood tide was found by Lieutenants Skyring and Graves, to
set to seaward, or to the southward ; as was also the case in Cock-
burn Channel. Our experience of the tides hereabouts was not
sufficient to justify our making any further observation upon
them.

» i /> mi' i i i/« Smyth Hai-

Smyth Harbour is about four miles deep, and half to one bour.

bour.

Beaufort.

4g STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Smyth Har- mile wide, surrounded by high land, and trending in a westerly
direction. The water is deep, excepting in Earle Cove, on the
north side, where vessels might lie, if necessary ; but I should
think it a very wild place in bad weather.

The hills at the head are capped by glaciers that communicate
with those at the head of Icy Sound. It seems possible that all
the mountains between this and Whale Sound are entirely covered
with a coating" of Ice.

shoal off Caps Half a mile south-east from Cape Beaufort is a shoal, so
thickly covered with kelp as to be easily seen in passing or ap-
proaching it ;— there are not more than two feet of water over its
shoalest part.

To pass through the Barbara Channel, from the north, it would
be advisable to stay at Port Gallant until a favourable oppor-
tunity offers; for, with a south-west wind it would neither be
safe nor practicable to pass the Shag Narrows.

Prevailing The north-west wind prevails more than any other in the

western portion of the Strait, in consequence of the reaches
trending in that bearing. It seems to be a general rule here-
abouts that the wind either blows up or down them.

Between Cape Froward and the western entrance of the strait,
the wind is generally from north-west, although at sea, or in the
Cockburn or Barbara Channels, it may be in the south or south-
western boards.

Winds.

SECTION IV.

Strait of MAGALHAENS—From Port Famine to Cape
Froward, the North Coast of Clarence Island, and from
Cape Froward to the Jerome Channel.

The Sedger River, which is fronted by a bar that dries at low Sedger River,
water, can be entered by boats at half tide, and is navigable for
three or four miles ; after which its bed is so filled up by stumps of
trees, that it is difficult to penetrate farther. The water is fresh
at half a mile from the entrance, but to ensure its being perfectly
good it would be better to fill the casks at low tide. The low
land near the mouth, as well as the beach of Port Famine, is
covered with drift timber of large size, which we found very
useful, and serviceable for repairing our boats.

The river was called by Sarmiento, Rio de San Juan*. In
Narborough's voyage it is called Segars River, and his boat is
described to have gone up it for nine (?) miles ; but was there
stopped from going farther by " reason of the trunk-timber and
shoaliness of the water."-f- Byron describes the river, which lie
calls the Sedger, in glowing terms, but gives rather a more
flattering account of the timber growing on its banks than it de-
serves.*

Voces Bay, or the Playa-de-las- Voces of Sarmiento,§ is to iho voces Bay.
southward of the south point of Port Famine, where the Sedger
River falls into the sea. A ship may anchor in from 7 to 10
fathoms, off the Second River, but the shelter is not so good as in

* Sarmiento, p. 223, t Narborougb, p. 122.

% Hawkeswortb, vol. i. p. 38. § Sarmiento, p. 222.

48 STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Port Famine. The Second River has a shoal entrance, but ex-
tends for some distance up the valley.
Cape San Between this bay and Cape San Isidro* (Point Shut-up of

Isidro. . x

Byron*f*) the water is too deep for anchorage, even close to the
beach. The cape is the termination of the ridge, whose summit is

Mount Torn. Mount Tarn, the most conspicuous mountain of this part of the
strait. It is 2602 feet high bv barometrical measurement. It is
readily distinguished from abreast of Elizabeth Island, whence
it appears to be the most projecting part of the continental
shore. When viewed from the northward its shape is peaked, and
during the summer it has generally some patches of snow a little
below its summit; but in the winter months its sides are covered
with snow for two-thirds down. From abreast, and to the south-
ward, of Port Famine, it has rather a saddle-shaped appearance ;
its summit being a sharp ridge, extending very nearly for one
mile, north-west and south-east, with a precipitous descent on the
north-east, and a steep slope on the south-west, sides. The
highest peak near its north-east-end is in lat. 53° 45' 06", and Ion.
70° 58' 26".

There is a low, but conspicuous rounded hillock covered with
trees at the extremity of Cape San Isidro ; and a rocky patch
extends off it for two cables length, with a rock at its extremity
that is awash at high water. It is coverd with kelp.

Eagle Bay. Eagle Bay, (Valcarcel Bay of Cordova*) is about three

quarters of a mile deep ; and its points one mile apart, bearing
N. E. and S. W. The anchorage is at the head, in from 20 to
12 fathoms. There are two streams of water ; but, being very
much impregnated with decomposed vegetable matter, cannot
be preserved long. The woods here abound with Winters Bark,
of which there are many very large trees. A small reef extends for
about a cable's length off the S. W. point of the bay, on which
is an islet. Eagle Bay is not useful for any but a small vessel,
that can be towed in, and then it will be necessary to steady her
by warps, to the shore. The squalls, or willi-waws, at times,
are very violent.

* Sarmiento, p. 220. -J* Hawkeswortb, vol. i. p. 62.

J Ultimo Viage, p. 116.

PORT FAMINE TO CAPE FROWARD. 49

Gun Bay, the next to the westward, although small, affords Gun Bay.
anchorage for a single vessel near the shore, at its S. W. part, in
from 8 to 9 fathoms. Its points bear S. 57e W., and N. 67° E.,
and are distant more than three-quarters of a mile. Two rivu-
lets discharge themselves into it, from which water is easily pro-
cured. The bottom is a stiff clay, and good holding ground.
A round hill of moderate elevation, and thickly wooded, sepa-
rates it from Indian Bay, the points of which bear S. G9° W., indian Bay
and N. 69° E., and are distant more than one mile and a quarter.
From the east point the shore runs due west, curving round at
the bottom towards an islet covered with trees ; between which
and the shore there is only sufficient depth for a boat to pass.
A rock about twelve feet high lies to the S. E., on either side of
which is an anchorage, sufficiently sheltered from the prevailing
winds, over a good bottom, in from 7 to 9 fathoms. The north
side of the bay is shoal, caused, probably, by the alluvial de-
posit from a river nearly in the centre. A patch of kelp extends
off the S. E. point for two cables length, but has 9 fathoms over
it at the centre.

Neither Gun nor Indian Bays are noticed in Cordova's descrip-
tion of the strait, although they are quite equal to any other in
the neighbourhood for stopping places.

Bouchage Bay, which is Cordova's Cantin Bay,* is small, Bouchno-e Bay
and the water very deep ; except near the bottom, where an-
chorage may be obtained in 8 fathoms, clay. It is separated
from Bournand Bay, (Gil Bay of Cordova-f-) by Cape Re- Bournand Bay
marquable, of Bougainville, which is a precipitous, round-
topped, bluff projection, wooded to the summit. At two cables
length from the base no bottom was found with 20 fathoms of
line ; but, at the distance of fiftv yards the depth was 20 fathoms.
Bournand Bay is more snug and convenient than its northern
neighbour, Bouchage Bay, being sheltered from the southerly
winds by Nassau Island. At the S. W. end of a stony beach at
the bottom, is a rivulet of good water : off which there is good
anchorage in 8 fathoms stiff mud.

Bougainville Bay, (Cordova's Texada Bay+) forms a basin, Bougainviii-

Buy.

* Ultimo Viage, 117. f Ibid, 1. c. J Ibid, p. 117, 1, c,

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Bougainville
Bay.

or wet dock, in which a vessel might careen with perfect se-
curity. It is, from its small size, great depth of water, and the
height of the land, rather difficult of access : which renders it
almost always necessary to tow in. On entering, the anchor
should be dropped in 12 fathoms, and the vessel steadied by
warps to the trees, at the sides and bottom of the cove. It is
completely sheltered from all winds, and an excellent place for
a vessel to remain at, particularly if the object be to procure
timber : which grows here to a great size, and is both readily
cut down and easily embarked. A rivulet at the bottom affords
a moderate supply of water; but, if more be required, the
neighbouring bays will afford an abundance*

In the passage between Nassau Island and the main, the least
water is 7 fathoms, over a stiff clay bottom ; gradually deepening
on each side. But the winds being baffling, and the tides irregu-
lar and rippling in many parts, a vessel should not attempt it
but from necessity.

Nassau island. Nassau Island's south extremity is Sarmiento's Point, Santa
Brigida«f-

St. Nicholas Bay, so named by the Nodales in 1618, (but
previously, by Sarmiento, Bahia de Santa Brigida y Santa
Agueda,* and French Bay by De Gennes), is not only of larger
size than any of the bays to the south of Cape San Isidro, but is the
best anchorage that exists between that cape and Cape Froward ;
as well from its being more easily entered and left, as from the
moderate depth of water, and extent of the anchoring ground.
Its points bear from each other, S. 58° W., and N. 58° E., and
are distant two miles. Nearly in the centre is a small islet co-
vered with trees ; between which and the shore is a passage with
9 fathoms water, stiff clay. The shore is, however, fronted for
its whole length by a shoal bank, which very much reduces the
apparent extent of the bay. This bank stretches off to the dis-
tance of a quarter of a mile from the shore, the edge of which

St. Nicholas
Bay.

* It was here that M. de Bougainville cut timber for the French Colony, at the
Falkland Islands- To Sealing vessels it is known by the name of Jack's Harbour.

f Sarmiento, p. 219. This island is called by Cordova, Isla de Co'rdova y Ramos,
— U timo Viage, p. 11T.

t Sarmiento, p. 220,

PORT FAMINE TO CAPE FROWARD. 51

is steep to, and is generally distinguished by the ripple, which, St. Nicholas

with a moderate breeze, breaks at half-tide. The Beagle an- **'

chored in the bay, at three cables length to the N. E. of the small

central islet, in 12 fathoms, pebbly bottom; but the best berth

is one-quarter to one-third of a mile to the S. W. of the islet, in

10 or 11 fathoms, muddy bottom. Captain Stokes recommends

in his journal, in coming in, to keep sail upon the ship, in order

to shoot into a good berth, on account of the hiffh land of No-

dales Peak becalming the sails; and, to avoid the drift of

the stream of the river setting the ship over to the eastern side of

the bay. I do not, however, think that the stream of the river

can affect a ship in any position between the islet and the peak.

In taking up an anchorage, much care is necessary to avoid

touching the bank. Less than 10 fathoms is not safe, but in that

depth the security is perfect, and the berth very easy to leave.

In passing through the strait, this bay is very useful to stop at,

as well from the facility of entering and leaving it, as for its

proximity to Cape Froward. The islet is in lat. 53° 50' 38", and

Ion. 71° 03' 13".

In the middle of the bay is De Gennes River, (Rio del De Gennes
Valle Grande of Sarmiento*) which is of larger size than the
Sedger River; it is one hundred yards across, and apparently
extends in a winding direction up the valley for some distance.
From its entrance being fronted by a shoal or bank, the form
of which must be constantly shifting; and its being strewed with
trees that drift out of the river during the winter freshes, it is
far from beingf an eligible place for procuring water.

From Glascott Point, the southern head of the bay, a
mountainous and high range of hills runs back for some dis-
tance. On its summit are several sharp peaks ; the most con-
spicuous of which is Nodales Peak.

From Glascott Point the coast extends in nearly a straight line Coast between

.. r- m n i l i ii St. Nicholas

to Cape Froward, a distance of seven miles, the land at the Bay and Cap-
back continuing mountainous and woody. A point, formed by Frowart.
a beach of shingle, covered with trees to within twenty yards of
the water's edge, and distant nearly three miles from Cape Fro.

* Savmiento, p, 280.

52 STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Anchorage to ward, is the only projection. Between this and the entrance of

the eastward of , , . , , . ._ . , .

Cape Froward. a rivulet, which waters the only valley that exists in this space,

an anchorage at a quarter of a mile from the shore, in 11 fa-
thoms, might be occupied during- a westerly wind ; but with the
wind more southerly it would be too much exposed to be safe.
The Beagle anchored here at two cables length oft' the sandy
beach, in 11 fathoms.

Cape Froward. Cape Froward, the southern extremity of the continent of
South America, rises abruptly from the sea. At its base is a
small rock, on which Bougainville landed, as did Lieutenant
Graves, for the purpose of obtaining a set of bearings. The hill
that rises immediately above the Cape, was called by Sarmiento,
the Morro of Santa Agueda.* Cape Froward is in lat.
53° 53' 43", Ion. 71° 14' 31". The ebb tide sets to the north-
ward, and the flood to the southward, but with very little strength.
It is high-water at full and change at one, p. m..

North Coast The North Coast of Clarence Island extends from the en-

ot Clarence /> -»T 11 r< 1 1 *> i t» 1

island. trance ot Magdalen Sound to that oi the Barbara Channel ; the

whole length of which is indented by sounds stretching deeply
into the island.

Port of Beau- Bougainville's Port of Beaubasin, (the Bahia Darsena of

basm. Cordova-^), is sufficiently pointed out by the small rocky islet

called Periagua,* and the mountain of the Vernal, described
in page 38. The outer part of the port decreases in width
gradually to the entrance of the Harbour, which is formed by
two projecting points, a very short distance apart, and is very
shoal, the deepest water being only 2% fathoms. Inside, in
the basin, there are 5 fathoms. It is a very snug place when once
in, but possesses no advantage, since it is on the wrong side of the
strait for vessels bound through to the westward ; for the nor-
therly or easterly wind, which would be favourable to proceed,
would prevent a vessel sailing out of it.

Bays west of Inman Bay, Hawkins Bay, Staples Inlet, and. Sholl
Harbour, are all deep inlets, surrounded by high precipitous
land.

To the westward of Greenough Peninsula, is Lyell Sound.

* Sarmiento, p. 218. f Ultimo Viage,p. 121. Ibid, p. 122.

NORTH COAST OF CLARENCE ISLAND. 53

It is nine miles deep, and is separated at the bottom from Sholl Lyell Sound.
Harbour by a ridge of hills about one mile and a half wide.

In the entrance of Lyell Sound, are two conspicuous islands,
one of which is very small. They are called Dos Her m anas,
and bear from Cape Froward S. 48J, W. five miles and a half.

Kempe Harbour, one mile and a half within the entrance, Kempe Hur-
on the west side, of Lyell Sound, is rather difficult of access, r"
but perfectly secure, and would hold six ships. Stokes Creek,
on the same side, more to the southward, also offers good
anchorage ; but from its being out of the way, can be of no
utility.

Cascade Harbour, and Mazzaredo Bay, are of less size, Cascade iiav-

,.,,,.«, , ., bour and Maz-

and therefore more attainable, but 01 the same character with zaredoBay.
Lyell Sound : viz., deep water, surrounded by high land. The for-
mer is known by the cascade which M. de Bougainville describes,
from which it derives its name. On the head land that se-
parates these harbours from Lyell Sound, is a sugar-loaf hill, _ . .„ ,

1 . Bougainville's

the position of which is well determined, in lat. 53° 57' 32" Ion. Sugar Loaf.
71° 24' 13'.

Hidden Harbour has a narrow entrance ; but, if required, Hidden Bar-
offers good shelter. bour-

San Pedro Sound is the most extensive inlet that we know San Pedro
in Clarence Island. It extends, in a southerly direction, for Soand<
nearly thirteen miles, and has three other inlets branching off
into the land, two to the westward, and one to the eastward.
There is a good, although a small, anchorage on its west
side, one mile and a half within the entrance, called Murray Murray Cove.
Cove ; and another close to it, which is even more sheltered.

Freshwater Cove, the Caleta de agua dulce of Sarmiento,* Freshwater
is a confined and indifferent place for a ship. Can'

Bell Bay, (the Bahia de la Campana of Sarmiento*f-), has a Bell Bay.
very convenient anchorage, Bradley Cove on its west side, Bradley Cove,
bearino- S. 79° W. from Point Taylor, the eastern head of the Bay.
It will be readily distinguished by a small, green, round hillock
that forms its north head. The anchorage is in 17 fathoms,
and the vessel hauls in, by stern-fasts or a kedge, into

* -Sarmiento, p. 217. t Ibid, p. 213.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Pond Bay.

Mount Pond,

St. Simon's
Bay.

Millar's Cove,

Port Langara.

9 fathoms, in perfect security. Pond Bay, to the northward,
has good shelter, but it is not of such easy access ; for it would
be necessary to tow both into and out of it.

Mount Pond, a peaked hill over the harbour, is a conspi-
cuous mountain, and is visible from the eastward as soon as it
opens round Cape Froward, It has two summits, one of which,
only, is visible from the eastward.

Between Cape Inglefield and Point Elvira, is St. Simon's
Bay.* It is studded with islands and rocks, and at the bottom
has two communications with the Barbara Channel, separated
from each other by Burgess Island; the easternmost of which,
called Tom's Narrows, is the most extensive: but this, from
the irregularity and force of the tides, is not to be pre-
ferred to the more direct one of the Shag Narrows, on the
western side of Cayetano Island; (see page 44) for there is no
good anchorage in St. Michael's Channel, which leads to it,
and it is bounded by a steep and precipitous coast. The Gon-
salez Narrows,! on the west side of Burgess Island, is not more
than thirty yards across ; and, from the force of the tide, and
the fall of the rapid, would be dangerous even for a boat to pass.

The only good anchorage in St. Simon's Bay is Millar's
Cove ; it is about three miles within Point Elvira, and has three
rocky islets off its entrance. A conspicuous mount forms the
summit of the eastern head. The anchorage is in 5 fathoms,
a good bottom, and entirely sheltered. Wood and water are
plentiful.

Immediately round the east head of Millar's Cove, is Port
Langara.* It is rather more than a mile long-, and two-thirds
of a mile wide, and trends in a W, N. W. direction. The
water is deep, excepting at the head, and in a cove on the north
shore ; in either of which there is good anchorage. At the for-
mer the depth is 8 fathoms and, in the cove, 5 fathoms. On
the eastern side of the bay, are Shipton and Mellersh Coves.
Both are surrounded by high land ; and the water being very
deep, neither of them afford anchorage. Offthe head, that divides
tkem, are the Castro Islands; on the north side of the largest

* Sarmtonto, p. 2}?,

f Ultimo Vlng«,p, 133,

J Jbid, p. 182.

CAPE FRO WARD TO THE JEROME CHANNEL. 55

is a very convenient cove, witli a moderate depth of water, casteiiano
The Castellano Islands consist of live principal ones; they Isles-
are situated in the centre of the bay, and have no anchorage
among them.

The coast from Cape Froward to Jerome Channel, a distance
of forty miles, is very slightly indented. The anchorages,
therefore, are few in number, but they are of easier access,
and, altogether, more convenient than those of the southern
shore. Taking them in succession, Snug Bay^, five miles Snug Bay.
N. W. of Cape Froward, is a slight indentation of the coast at the
embouchure of a small rivulet; the deposits from which have
thrown up a bank near the shore, on which anchorage may be
had in 8 and 9 fathoms. The best anchorage is half a mile to
the E. S. E. of the island, in 9 fathoms, black sand, the rivulet
mouth bearing N. N. W. three-quarters of a mile. It is much
exposed, being open from W. S. W., by South, to S. E.

Byron, who anchored in it, describes it as being fit for his
purpose.*f* It is certainly a convenient stopping place in fine
weather.

Wood's Bay, situated under the lee of Cape Holland, is a Wood's Bay.
convenient stopping place for ships, but only small vessels
should anchor inside the cove. The anchorage is very good Anchorage to
to the eastward of the river's mouth, at half a mile from the flaJJw.
shore, in 17 and 13 fathoms water. Small vessels may enter
the cove, by luffing round the kelp patches that extend off the
south point of the bay, on which there is 2§ fathoms.

Entering Wood's Bay, steer for the gap, or low land behind Directions for
the cape ; and, as you near the south point, keep midway be- JJ,*rins
tween it and the river's mouth ; or, for a leading mark, keep a
hillock, or conspicuous clump of trees at the bottom of the bay,
in a line with a remarkable peak, one or two miles behind, bear-
ing, by compass, N. 52° W. Anchor in 17 fathoms, imme-
diately that you are in a line between the two points. Small
vessels may go further, into 12 fathoms. The west side of the
Cove may be approached pretty near, and the depth will not be

* Castejon Bay of Cordova.— Ultimo Viage, f, 123.

* Hawlwswortb vol, i. p. 63.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Cape Coven-
try.

Cordes Bay.

Wood's Bay. Jess than 5 fathoms, excepting- upon the two fathoms patch that
stretches off the east point, the extent of which is sufficiently shewn
by the kelp ; but on the eastern side the bank shoals suddenly, and
must be avoided, for there arc 13 fathoms close to its edge, upon
which there is not more than two feet water. The south point of
Wood's Bay is in lat, 53° 48' 33", and Ion. 71° 35' 41".

Cape Holland. Cape Holland is a bold, high, and, although slightly pro-
jecting, yet a very conspicuous headland. It is precipitous, and
descends to the sea in steps, plentifully covered with shrubs.
It is fourteen miles to the westward of Cape Froward.

Near Cape Coventry, and in Andrews Bay, anchorage may
be had near the shore, if the weather be fine. To the westward
of the former, at half a mile from the shore, there are 13
fathoms.

Cordes Bay, four miles to the eastward of Cape Gallant, may
be known by the small bright green islet (Muscle Island,) that
lies in the entrance; also by a three-peaked mountain, about
1,500 or 2,000 feet high, standing detached from the sur-
rounding hills, at the bottom of the bay. The western entrance,
which lies between west point and the reef off Muscle Island, is
two-thirds of a mile wide ; within it, is a bay one mile deep, but
much contracted by shoals covered with kelp ; between them,
however, the anchorage is very good and well sheltered. The
bottom is of sand, and the depth 5 and 7 fathoms. At the ex-
tremity of the bay is a large lagoon, Port San Miguel, trend-
ing in a north-east direction for two miles, and two-thirds of a
mile across ; the entrance is both narrow and shoal, and not safe
for a vessel drawing* more than six feet. Inside the lagoon the
depth is from 3 to 13 fathoms. With Fortescue Bay and Port
Gallant so near, the probability is that it will never be much
used: but in turning to the westward it would be better to
anchor here, than lose ground by returning* to Wood's Bay. By
entering the western channel and steering clear of the kelp, a
safe and commodious anchorage may easily be reached.

Fortescue Bay is the first best anchorage to the westward
of St. Nicholas Bay. — It is spacious, well sheltered, easy of
access, and of moderate depth. The best berth is to the south-
east of the small islet, outsido of Wigwam Point, in 7 or 8

Foit San
Miguel.

i'ertescueBay.

CAPE FROWARD TO THE JEROME CHANNEL 57

fathoms. Having the entrance of Port Gallant open, small Port Gallant.
vessels may sail into the port, but the channel is rather narrow.
The banks on the western side, off Wig-warn Point, are distin-
guished by the kelp. When within, the shelter is perfect ; but
Fortescue Bay is quite sufficiently sheltered, and much more
convenient to leave. In this Dart of the strait, as the channel
becomes narrowed by the islands, the tides are much felt. There
are two good anchorages before reaching the entrance of
the Jerome Channel; namely, Elizabeth Bay and York
Roads, off Batchelors River. — They are, however, only fit for
stopping places. There are no anchorages among the islands
that can be recommended, excepting in the strait that separates
the group of Charles's Islands, in which there is security and a
convenient depth. When the wind blows fresh there is a IioIIoav
sea between Charles's Islands and the north shore, which very
much impedes ships beating to the westward.

At a short distance to the E. S. E. of Passage Point, is a Elizabeth Bay,
shoal, with two fathoms upon it.* Elizabeth Bay has a sandy
beach, and a rivulet emptying itself into it. Cordova recommends
the best anchorage to be in 15 fathoms, Passage Point bearing
E. S. E., distant half a mile, about three cables length from the
river ; and to the north-west of a bank on which there is much
kelp.

Captain Fitz Roy describes the anchorage of York Roads, or York Roads.
Batchelors Bay, to be good and convenient: " half a mile off, a
woody point, (just to the westward of the river) bearing N. C° E.,
and the mouth of the river N. E., three quarters of a mile,
is a good berth ; because there is plenty of room to weigh from
and space to drive should the anchor drag; the bottom is good.
in 10 or 12 fathoms, but not in a less depth. The shore is a flat
shingle beach for two miles, the only one in this part of the
strait."f Cordova recommends the following as the best anchor-
age, at half a mile from the beach, the river bearing N. 5°-E., and
the west point of the bay N. 27° W.+

The set and change of the tide here arc very uncertain on ac-
count of the meeting of the Jerome Channel tides with those of

* Ultimo Viege, p. IS6 f ™z R°y M,S. \ Ultimo Viage, p. 137.

Tides off York
Roads,

Batchelor
Eiver.

Secretury
Wren's Island.

Charles Is- -
lands.

Island of Car-
lo* I IL

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

the strait, which occasions many ripplings ; and it would require a
better experience than we possess, to give a correct explanation.
Captain Fitz Roy, says, that " the tide along shore, near Batchelor
River, changed an hour later than in the offing. At Batchelor
Bay, by the beach, during the first half or one third of the tide
that ran to the south-east, the water fell ; and durino- the latter
half or two thirds, it rose. In the offing it ran very strong." The
establishment of the tide, at the entrance of the river, by an ob-
servation made by Captain Fitz Roy with the moon eight days old,
would be, at full and change, at lh 46'. By an observation
made by Captain Stokes, two years previous, it was found to
be 2h 13' ; the tide at the anchorage ran three knots.

Batchelor River is accessible to boats only ; and in going
into or out of its entrance they must be very careful to follow
exactly the course of the stream, for a bar lies outside : large
boats cannot enter at half tide.*

To the following islands in the centre of the strait, that form
the south limit of English Reach, I have restored the names
that were originally given by Sir John Narborough.

Secretary Wren's Island is a small rocky islet, risino-
abruptly on all sides, and forming two summits. Near it are
some rocks, and to the south-east is a group of small rocks ; and,
at a mile to the E. S. E., are two rocks above water, called
Canoas. The islet has no name on Cordova's chart.

Charles Islands,^ besides some smaller islets, consists of
three principal islands; and in the centre there is a very good
port, having good anchorage within the islets, in 13 fathoms. It
has an outlet to the north-west, and one to the south-west, also
a narrow point communicates with the strait to the south-east.

Opposite to Cape Gallant, on the eastern island, near its
north-west end is a conspicuous white rock, called Wallis's
Mark. Next to the westward in succession are Monmouth and
James Islands, (called by Cordova, Isla de los Infantes,) then
Cordova Islet, and Rupert Island, and to the westward
of these the island of Carlos HI. so named by Cordova. The

* Fitz Roy M. S.

f Island de los Principes of Cordova.— U]li mo Viage, p, 128,

CAPE FRO WARD TO THE JEROME CHANNEL. 5£

last is separated from Ulloa Peninsula by St. David's Sound, Carloslli,
which is navigable throughout. Island.

To the northward of Whale Point, the eastern extremity of
Carlos III. Island, is a cove with an anchorage, in 15 fathoms,
close to the shore, on a steep bank, but bad ground; the Bea-
gle and Adelaide both dragged off the bank, from the violence
of the squalls off the high land. From the north point of the
cove to Rupert's Island, is a rocky ledge, (Lucky Ledge), over
which the tide sets with considerable strength. The Beagle,
having dragged her anchor in the cove, was brought up by
its hooking a rock on the ledge, but it was found broken on being
hove up. Whilst there, the tides set past her in a north and south
direction, at the rate of three knots an hour.

To the westward of Cape Middleton, of Narborough, is Muscle Bay.
Muscle Bay,* having deep water, and of uninviting- character.
Cordova describes it to be a mile wide, with unequal soundings,
from 12 to 40 fathoms, stones. The bay is not to be recom-
mended, although it appears to be well sheltered. There is an
anchorage in from 15 to 30 fathoms in Bonet Bay of Cordova, Bonet j3aj-
close to Carlos III. Island. It lies under the S. E. side of some
islands opposite to Batchelor River. At a short mile to the east-
ward of Cape Crosstide, the N. W. end of Carlos III. Island,
is Tilly Bay, but it has 1101111110' to recommend it, particularly xiliy Bay.
when the much better anchorage off Batchelor River is so close
at hand.

Choiseul Bay, and Nash Harbour, on the Fuegian Coast, choiseul Bay
are not in the least inviting ; the former, Captain Fitz Roy de- ®ud Nash Har
scribes to be a large, deceiving, harbour-like bay, full of islets
and patches of kelp, under which, of course, there are rocks.
Between the islets, the water is deep and unfit for anchorage.

Nash Harbour is equally unserviceable.-f*

Whale Sound, also on the Fuegian shore, at the back of whale Sound.
Ulloa Peninsula, is a large inlet, trending eight miles into the
land, and terminating in a valley bounded on each side by
high mountains. There is anchorage only in one place, the
west side of Last Harbour ; and, although this harbour appears
large, the anchorage is small, and close to the shore.

* Roxas Bay of Cordova. -Ultimo Viage, p. 138. t Fitz Roy M. S.

60 STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

st. Datid's St« David's Sound separates Carlos III. Island from Ulloa

Sound, Peninsula. At its north end the water is deep, but where it

begins to narrow, there are sounding's in it, on which anchorage
might be found, if there was a necessity ; but I cannot imagine
such an occasion will ever happen: — should it, the chart will be a
sufficient guide.

SECTION V.

Strait of MAGALHAENS— Jerome Channel— Otway and
Skyiung JVaters — Crooked and Long Reaches.

The Jerome Channel was only slightly examined by Jerome Cban-
Cordova's officers; for, their object being merely to confirm or
disprove Sarmiento's statement of the insularity of the land be-
tween it and the Gulf of Xaultegua, now called Croker Penin-
sula,* the Lago de la Botella was alone explored by them.
The continuation of the Jerome, named in the old charts Indian
Sound, having never been traced; and, therefore, being an
object of great interest, it was investigated by Captain FitzRoy as
carefully as could be done in the middle of winter in an open
boat. The period of his absence from the ship, however, thirty-
two days not being sufficient to complete the service, the western
shores of the Skyring Water were not visited ; and as a further
examination of it will, probably, be one of the objects of the
voyage he is now preparing for, a brief description will be
sufficient.

The Jerome Channel is narrow, but throughout, free from Description.
danger. The western shore is high and steep, and covered with
trees : the eastern shore is lower and less wooded. In mid-
channel, near its western end, are two islets which have no place
in the Spanish Chart ; unless the Teran Islesf be intended to
represent them ;— if so, they arc badly placed. The Spanish
Chart makes the channel six miles too long.

* Sarmiento describes it to be an island by the Indian name of C»yrayxayu>gua«
See Sarmiento, p. 208.
•f Ultimo Viage, appendice 36,

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Coves on the
west shore.

Bays on the

east shore.

Cutter Cove.

Corona Isles.

Bending Cove.

Otway Water.
Anchorages.

Inglefield and
Vivian Isles.

Brunswick

Peninsula.

On the west side of the Jerome are two Coves, Wood Cove
and Seal Cove, that may be used with advantage by small
vessels. On the the eastern shore, the bights, Three Island
Bay (Cordova's Real Cove*) and CoRONiLLAt Cove appeared
to be commodious. Arauz Bay is open and exposed to the
N. W.

Where the Lago de' la Botella joins the Jerome, the latter
winds round to the north-east. On its eastern side, behind the
False Corona Isles, is Cutter Cove, affording anchorage for a
small vessel ; a plan was made of it. Opposite is Nunez Creek,
with deep water.

Abreast of the Corona Isles, one of which, the Sugar Loaf,
is about 200 feet high, is Sulivan Sound, penetrating for five
miles into the land on the western side of the channel ; and, at a
league to the northward of the Sugar Loaf, is another opening
to the westward ; on the north shore of which, is Bending Cove ;
which, with Cutter Cove, are the only stopping places between
Cape Forty-Five and Child's Bluff.

Between Child's Bluff and Point Stokes, the Otway Water
commences. On the west shore it affords several commodious
anchorages. Off Point Villiers, lat. 53° 09', at a quarter of a mile
from the shore, there are from 10 to 30 fathoms ; and this depth
decreases in advancing more northerly. There is anchorage all
across the north-east part of the Water, in from 5 to 20 fathoms,
the bottom of sandy-mud.

Inglefield and Vivian Islands, at the west end of the Water, are
low but thickly wooded. An isthmus, 6 to 10 miles across,
separates the Otway Water from the Strait near Elizabeth Island.
From an elevated station on the north side of FitzRoy Island, this
harrow neck appeared to be low and much occupied by lagoons.
The south shore of Otway Water is formed by high land, with
three deep Openings that were not examined. Brunswick
Peninsula, a mass of high mountainous land,is the most southern
extremity of the Continent.

In lat. 52° 40' and Ion. 71^° W. is the east entrance of Frrz
Roy Channel j it forms a communication between the Otway

Ultimo Viage, Appendice, p. 34,

t Ibid, 26.

JEROME CHANNEL AND INTERIOR WATERS. 63

and the Skyring Waters, and takes a winding course to the Filz Roy
N. W. for eleven miles, which is easily navigated. A strong Channel-
tide running- during the neaps at the rate of 5 or G miles an hour,
in the entrance, and of 2 or 3 in other parts, sets through it, six
hours each way. The rise and fall, however, were scarcely dis-
tinguishable.

Skyring Water is ten leagues long from east to west. Its SfcyringWater.

shores are low. At the western extremity two openings were
observed to wind under a high castellated-topped mountain
(Dynevor Castle,) which were supposed by Captain Fitz Roy to
communicate with some of the sounds of the western coast.
Through Euston opening, the southern one, no land was visible
in the distance ; but on a subsequent examination of the termina-
tion of the Ancon sin Salida of Sarmiento, by Captain Skvring,
no communication was detected.

Of the Tides in the Jerome and Jnteiiior JVaters.

The tide was found to set through the Jerome Channel with Tides,
great regularity, six hours each way. The Spanish account, how-
ever, says, " The current is always in the direction of the channel,
but rarely sets to the N. W., particularly in mid-channel and the
western shore ; on the opposite side, however, the tide sets six
hours each way to the N. W. and S. E."*

The following observations were made by Captain Fitz Roy for
the time of high-water at full and change, at various parts of the
Jerome and its interior waters, viz.:— In the entrance of tlie
Jerome, near Arauz Bay, at 1 o'clock ; near Bending Cove, at
3 o'clock; at Cutter Cove, at 4 o'clock; on the south shore of
Fanny Bay, at Gidley Island, as also at Martin Point, at
5 o'clock; at Inglefield Island, at 4 o'clock; and, at the same
hour at the eastern entrance of Fitzroy Channel; but at the
v/estern end of it at lh 15'. The variation of the compass was
found to be at the

Point of Islets » . 23° 98'

DonkinCove Q * 23° 40"

Wigwam Cove , «T 23° 34'

* Ultimo Viage, Appendice, p. 41:

64 STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Inglefield Island . , 23° 56'
Point Martin . . 23° 58'

The mean of which will be 23° 49'.

Crooked The Portion of the strait comprised between the western ex-

tremity of Ulloa Peninsula and the entrance of the Jerome
is called Crooked Reach. In the navigation of this part
Wallis and Carteret, suffered extreme anxiety ; and no one that
has read their journals would willingly run the risk of anchoring
in any port or bay on its southern shore. The chart will shew
several inlets deep enough to induce any navigator to trust to
them ; and, probably, for small vessels, many sheltered nooks
might be found, but they have all Very deep water, and when the
wind blows strong down to Long Reach, they are exposed to a

Borja Bay. heavy sea, and a furious wind. The anchorage of Borja Bay
within the Ortiz Islands (the Island Bay of Byron) is so much
preferable, that it alone is to be recommended. Both Captain
.Stokes and Captain Fitz Roy speak highly of it in their journals ;
, it is snug and well sheltered, and tolerably easy of access, but in
;i gale, like its neighbours, the anchorage is much incommoded
by the williwaws, which " drive the ship from one side to the
other, as if she were a light chip upon the water."* Captain
Fitz Roy says, " let me recommend Borja Bay as an excellent,
although small, anchorage ; wood and water are plentiful ;
under the coarse upper sand is a stiff clay, like pipe-clay. Avoid
the islet off its west side as you go in or out."*f*

As this is an anchorage that may be much used, Captain
Stokes' account of it is also subjoined.

Description. " Borja Bay is situated on the northern shore of Crooked

Reach, two miles to the eastward of Cape Quod.. Its position is
pointed out as well by the islet off its west point, as by its
situation with respect to El Morrion, the helmet-shaped point pre-
viously called by the English, St. David's Head. The entrance
to the bav is to the eastward of the largest islet, and presents no
(i angers; all the islets and shores of the bay may be approached
to half a cable's length, even to the edge of tin; kelp. The only
difficulty that impedes getting into the bay arises from the baffling

* Fitz Roy M, S. f Ibid.

CROOKED REACH. (55

winds and violent gusts that occasionally come off the mountains BoijaBay.
and down the deep ravines which form the surroundinc coast,
and the utmost vigilance must be exercised in beating in under
sail to guard against their effects. The anchorage is perfectly
sheltered from the prevailing winds, the westerly and south-
westerly gales, and is open only to south-easterly winds, which
very rarely blow here, and still more rarely with violence ; and
as the holding ground is good (small stones and sand) and the
depth of water moderate (14 to 16 fathoms), and any fetch of sea
prevented by the narrowness of the strait in this part, the greatest
breadth being only three miles, it may be pronounced a very good
and secure harbour. The best plan is to anchor with the bower,
and steadied to the shore by a hawser or a kedge. No surf or
swell obstructs landing any where ; good water and plenty of
wood are easy to be embarked ; the trees, a species of beech,
are of a considerable size. The shores are rocky, and the beach
plentifully stocked, as indeed are all parts of the strait to the
eastward, with barberries and wild celery.*

Byron anchored in Borja Bay, as did also Carteret in the
Swallow.-f* The former gives a plan of it, and calls it Island
Bay. He attempted to anchor in it, but was prevented by the
strength of the tide. +

Captain Stokes describes the Morrion, or St. David's EiMorrion.or
Head, to be a lofty granitic rock, of which the outer face is Head*
perpendicular and bare, and of a light grey colour, distinguish-
able from a considerable distance both from the east and the
north-west, and forming an excellent leading mark to assure the
navigator of his position.

Narborough thus describes Cape Quod. " It is a steep up
cape, of a rocky greyish face, and of a good height before one
comes to it : it shews like a great building of a castle ; it points
off with a Race from the other mountains, so much into the
channel of the strait, that it make^ shutting in against the south
land, and maketh an elbow in the streight."g

* Stokes INI. S. t Kawkesworth vol. i. p. 395.

+ Hawkesworth vol. i. p. C8. Narborougb, p. 7(5.

STRAIT OF MAGALHEANS.

Current near
Cape Quod.

Snowy Sound.

Barcelo Bayi
OssornoBny.

Langara Hay.

Posadas Bay,
or Lion Cove

Arce Bay.

Abreast of Cape Quod Captain Stokes tried and found the
current setting to the eastward at one knot and a half an hour.

Between Borja Bay and Cape Quod are two coves, too small
to be of any use when Borja Bay is so much superior.

Snowy Sound, a deep inlet, unimportant to the navigator, and
not worth any persons while to enter, excepting for anchorage in
a cove at about a mile, and in another at two miles, within its west-
ern head. It extends in for ten miles, and terminates in two
inlets, surrounded by high, perpendicular, black rocks. Snowy
Sound was formerly considered to be a channel communicating
with Whale Sound, and insulating Ulloa Peninsula ; but this is
disproved by Captain Fitz Roy's careful examination of it.

The following descriptions of the Bays between Cape
Quod and Cape Notch, are taken principally from the Ap-
pendix to Cordova's Voyage to the Strait.

Barcelo Bay, the first to the west of Cape Quod, seems to be
large and incommodious; and strewed with small islets.

Ossorno Bay follows, and, according to Cordova, has very
deep water all over ; there being 40 fathoms within a cable's
length of the beach, excepting on the west side, where there is a
rocky ledge with from 10 to 20 fathoms.

Next, to the westward, is Langara Bay. It trends in for
about a mile to the north-east, and has 10 to 12 fathoms stony
bottom. It is more sheltered than the two former bays,

Posadas Bay is, most probably, Wallis's Lion Cove. Its
western point is formed by a high, rounded, and precipitous
headland, resembling, in Captain Wallis's idea, a lion's head ; and
although Cordova could not discover the likeness, yet it is suf-
ficiently descriptive to point out the bay, were the anchorage
worth occupying, which it is not. Wallis describes it to have
deep water close to the shore ; his ship was anchored in 40
fathoms.*

Arce Bay. Cordova describes it to have anchorage in from
6 to 17 fathoms, stones. It divides at the bottom into two arms,

Hawkeswortb, vol. i. p 399.

LONG REACH. (37

each being- half a mile deep. The outer points bear from each
other W. N. W. and E. S. E., half a mile across.

Flores Bay is, probably, Wallis's Good Luck Bay. Cordova Fiores Bay.
describes it to be very small and exposed, with from G to 20
fathoms, stones and gravel. At the bottom is a rivulet of very
good water.

Villena Cove has from 15 to 20 fathoms, and is very open viiieua Cove,
and exposed.

Then follows Guirior Bay. It is large, and open to the GuiriorBay.
south, and probably affords good anchorage in coves. Cordova
describes it to extend for more than a league to the north, the
mouth being two miles wide. Its west point is Cape Notch,
which will serve to recognize it. Near the entrance is an island
and several rocks ; and within them, on the west side, are two
coves, with from 15 to 30 fathoms, stones. Beyond them is the
port, which has a narrow entrance. A river falls from a con-
siderable height into it, and, by the rapidity of the current
has formed a channel of oaze in the direction of the entrance, in
which there is good anchorage in from 20 to 26 fathoms: on Anchorage;
either side of the channel the bottom is stony. The port is too
difficult to reach to make it an object of any value. Should,
however, a strong gale from south or south-west oblige a ship to Direclions for
run in, she should avoid passing too near the west side of the entering the
narrow ; for a reef extends off it for nearly a cable's length.
There is also a bank outside the narrow, but it is pointed out by

kelp.

From the above description of the bays between Capes Quod Kemarks „1)011
and Notch, occupying a space of twelve miles and a half, and gj£^g«£
from the view we had of them in passing, none seem to be con- Quod and
venient, or very safe. The best port for shelter, for a ship, is
Swallow Harbour, on the opposite shore : but small vessels may
find many places, that a ship dare not approach, where every
convenience may be had ; for if the water be too deep for anchor-
age, they may be secured to the shore at the bottom of the coves,
where neither the swell nor the wind can reach them.

Swallowt Harbour is one mile and a quarter to the west- SwaU H
ward of Snowy Sound, It is a better anchorage for ships than bour.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Swallow Har-
bour.

Wallis's ac-
count of the
harbour.

Cordova's ac-
count.

Condesa Bay.

Rock off the
entrance of
Swallow Har-
bour*

Stewarts Bay,

any in the neighbourhood. The plan of it is a sufficient guide,
the dangers being well buoyed and pointed out by kelp. It was
first used by Captain Carteret in the Swallow ; and Cordova
gives a short description of it.

The anchorage is under the east side of the island which sepa-
rates the harbour from Cordova's Condesa Bay, and which forms
its west side. Wallis describes the harbour to be " sheltered from
all winds, and excellent in every respect. There are two channels
into it, which are both narrow, but not dangerous, as the rocks
are easily discovered by the weeds that grow upon them."* Cor-
dova's account of it runs thus — " To the westward of Snowy
Sound are two bays, formed in a bight by an island. The eastern,
Swallow Harbour, has in its mouth three islands and a rock ; be-
sides being strewed with kelp, which serves to point out the
dangers in entering. Within, it is very well sheltered from all
winds. The depth is from 40 to 16 fathoms, stones, and in some
parts oaze. This bay is to the south of Cape Notch ; and to re-
cognize it, there is a cascade falling down the centre of a moun-
tain at the bottom of the port, to the westward of which are two
higher mountains ; the summit of the eastern being peaked, and
the western one rounded.

The bay, to the westward of the island, is Condesa Bay. It
'sfull of islets and rocks, and the channel behind the island, com-
municating with Swallow Bay, is very narrow."*^

At about a cable's length off the west point of the entrance of
Swallow Harbour, Captain Fitz Roy saw a rock just awash. This
danger should be carefully avoided.

Stewarts Bay is less than a league from Swallow Bav. Of
this place Captain Stokes makes the following remarks. " Stew-
arts Bay afforded us a quiet resting place for the night, but it is
by no means to be recommended as an anchorage ; for though it
is sufficiently sheltered from wind and sea, yet the rocks, in
different parts of it, render the passage in or out very hazardous :
every danger in it is pointed out by rock weed, but it is so much
straitened as to require the utmost vigilance. A plan of it was

* Hawkeswortb, vol, i. p, 401.

i> Ultimo Viage, p, 146,

LONG REACH. 69

made and connected with the coast by bearings and angles to Slew(irl ]ja ,
Cape Notch, and to other fixed points. The description of the
place by Cordova cannot be improved."*
The account in Cordova is as follows : —
" Stewart Bay (La Bahia de Stuardo) follows Condesa Bay.
It has an islet besides several patches of kelp, an indication of the
many rocks that exist.— Even the best channel is narrow and
tortuous; the depth from 12 to 1G fathoms, stones. At the bot-
tom is an islet, forming" two narrow channels leading into a port
or basin, two cables length wide: the eastern channel is the
deeper and has 15 to 20 fathoms. Inside the Basin, on the east
side, the depth is 6 and 9 fathoms, mud. A reef extends for
half a cable's length to the westward of the south end of the
islet. It would be difficult and dangerous to enter this small
basin."-|-

Then follows a deep and extensive channel, of which we know
only that it extends to the south for five or six miles, and, per-
haps, is very similar in its termination to Snowy Sound. It is
Sarmiento's Snowy Channel. (Ensenada de Mucho-Nicve.)J

At this part of the strait, the breadth is about two miles and a Channel,
half; but, at Cape Quod, it scarcely exceeds one mile and a
quarter. The shores are certainly much less verdant than to
the eastward of Cape Quod ; but not so dismal as Cordova's
account would make them appear to be ; for, he says : "As six >i i
as Cape Quod is passed, the strait assumes the most horrible
appearance, (con el aspecto mas horrible,) having high mountains
on both sides, separated by ravines entirely destitute of trees,
from the mid-height upwards." To us it appeared that the
hills were certainly much more bare of vegetation above, but
below were not deficient; the. trees and shrubs, however, are of
small size. For the purposes of fuel abundance of wood is to be
obtained. In the winter months the hills are covered with snow, Appearance of
from the summit to the base ; but in the month of April, when
the Adventure passed through, no snow was visible about them.

Stokes M, S. t Cordova, p. 147. J Sarmiento, i». 207.

tlic Coast,

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Appearance of
the coast.

Cape Notch.

Playa Parda
Cove.

Anchorage in
Playa Parda
Cove,

Glacier Bay.

Captain Stokes remarks, that, the mountains in this part (Cape
Notch) spire up into peaks of great height, connected by sin-
gularly sharp saw-like ridges, as bare of vegetation as if they had
been rendered so by the hand of art. About their bases there
are generally some green patches of jungle, but upon the whole
nothing can be more steril and repulsive than this portion of the
strait. This account of Captain Stokes agrees with Cordova's ;
but upon examining the coves, we found them so thickly wooded
with shrubs and jungle, and small trees, that it was difficult to
penetrate beyond a few yards from the beach.

Cape Notch is a projecting point of grey coloured rock,
about 650 feet high, having a deep cleft in its summit. It is a
conspicuous headland, and cannot be mistaken.

The next place to the westward of Cape Notch, that can be re-
commended for an anchorage, is Playa Parda Cove, which
is well sheltered, and, for chain cables, has a good bottom, being
of sandy-mud, strewed with stones ; it is half a mile wide at the
entrance, and about a quarter deep. Round the west side of
Middle-point, is a channel, a quarter of a mile long and 150
yards wide, with 6 and 7 fathoms water, communicating with a
very excellent little harbour for a small vessel, of about a quarter
of a mile in diameter.

Playa Parda Cove is easily known by Shelter Island, that
fronts the inlet of Playa Parda. The inlet is one mile and a half
long, and half a mile broad, but with very deep water all over.
By luffing round the island, a ship will fetch the anchorage in the
cove ; and, although sail should not be reduced too soon, yet the
squalls, if the weather be bad, blow down the inlet of Playa
Parda with great violence. Anchor a little within, and half-way
between the points of entrance, at about one cable and a hal^
from the middle point, in 5| and 6 fathoms.

Of Glacier Bay, remarkable for a Glacier at the bottom, and
of another bay to the eastward of it, we know nothing: the former
may possess good shelter and, perhaps, anchorage; but the
latter is too full of islands to be recommended. Between
Glacier Bay and Playa Parda, the shore is bold but straight,
excepting a small cove about two miles from Playa Parda,

LONG REACH. 71

which seemed likely to afford shelter for small vessels. Off the Cove between
west inner point is a reef, but within it there seemed to be a basin Glacie1' haJ'

* and l'liiya

half a mile deep. Eye sketches of these three indentations were l'arda.
made as we passed by.

To the westward of Snowy Channel are several inlets afford-
ing-, apparently, good shelter, but those we examined were found
to have very deep water.

Opposite to Playa Parda is a deep opening which has more Ann
the appearance of a channel, leading through the Ticrra del
Fuego, than any opening to the west of the Barbara. It i>
evidently the inlet noticed by Sarmiento, and thus described by
him: — " a great bay (Ensenada) which trends into the land in
a W. S. W. direction for more than two leagues, and has an
island at its mouth ; — we called it the Abra (opening), because
we did not see its termination. On the opposite shore there is
another port and grey beach (Puerto y Playa Parda), which
has an island that shelters it. Within the Abra the land is low
and hummocky ; — half a league beyond (i. e. to the eastward of)
the Abra is a cove ; and on the opposite shore, a league across,
is another Cove which forms a port, which the Indians call
Pelepelgua, and the Cove they call Exeaquil.*" The Cove
Pelepelgua, may probably be Glacier Bay, and Exeaquil
must of course be one of the coves to the eastward of the Abra.
To us, the opening of the Abra seemed to be one mile and a
half wide, with an island in the entrance. Within, it appeared
to take, first, a south, then a S. W. course, and afterwards to
trend round a projecting, low, hummocky point of the easrt
shore, and wind under the base of a high precipitous ridge on
the opposite or west shore, towards the S. E., beyond which, its
course could not be observed.

On the seaward coast there is a deep opening behind Otway
Bav, which, probably, may communicate with it.

The weather here is generally so thick, that, although the Weather
distance across be only two to three miles, yet one shore is fre-
quently concealed from the other, by the mist ; on which account
Captain Stokes found it impossible to form any plan ofthispartof

* Sarmiento, p. 206,

72 STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Weather. the strait, on his passage through it. Captain Stokes, in leaving

Stewart's Bay, says, " we continued our progress to the west-
ward, having westerly and S. W. winds, with thick weather and
drizling rain. The coasts on both sides were very rarely visible to
us, by reason of the thick mist by which they were capped. It is,
however, a bold coast on each side, otherwise the strait would
be utterly unnavigable in such weather."

Marian's Cove Marian's Cove, one mile and a half to the westofPlaya
Parda, is a convenient anchorage; at the entrance it is about one-
third of a mile wide, and more than half a mile deep ; a plan
was made of it, which will be a sufficient guide. Captain Stokes,
observes, that it affords shelter from the prevailing winds ; the
anchorage is 22 fathoms, good holding ground ; but less water
may be obtained, if required, there being 8 fathoms within sixty
yards of the beach, at the bottom of the bay. In entering, the
west side should be kept aboard.

This cove is about midway between Cape l'Etoile and Playa
Parda ; and is a very advantageous place to stop at.

Bay opposite to Opposite to Cape l'Etoile, is a Bav with anchorage in 17

Cape l'Etoile. u . r . . °

fathoms, in a well sheltered situation. From Cape l'Etoile to

the entrance of the Gulf of Xaultegua, the shore is straight and

precipitous, and the hills are barren and rocky. On the opposite

shore there are a few inlets, but the most useful one for the navi-

Half Port Bay. gator is Half Port Bay, rather more than a league to the east

of Cape Monday. It is immediately round the south side of a

deep inlet. It is merely a slight indentation of the coast.

The Beagle anchored here on two or three occasions, and
found it to be an excellent stopping place ; the anchorage is
within two-thirds of a cable's length of the west point, in 16
fathoms, muddy bottom. The situation of this cove was ascer-
tained by observation to be in lat. 53° 11' 36" and Ion.
73° 14' 57' W. (or 2° 20' 56' west of Port Famine.) There is a
plan of this bay.

" The land on the S. W. side of the anchorage is high and
thickly wooded from its summit to the water's edge. On the
the eastern side it is lower, the vegetation more scanty and the
trees crooked and stunted, and pressed down to the N. E. by the
prevailing winds. S. W. by W. from the anchorage, is a re..

LONG REACH. -o

markablc cleft in the summit of the highland, from which a Half Port Bay.
narrow stripe cleared of jungle descends to the water's ed«-e
apparently formed by the descent of a torrent or of large masses
of the rock.* The anchorage is well sheltered from prevailing
breezes, and the holding ground is good : water and fuel are
abundant."— Stokes' MSS.

There is an anchorage under Cape Monday for small vessels,
in which Byron anchored,^ and rode out a heavy gale of wind.
With the exception of a shoal in midway of the entrance, on which
there is 4 fathoms, it seems to offer good shelter from the pre-
vailing winds. On the west side of Cape Monday is Cordova's
Medal Bay (Puerto de la Medalla), of which a very full but
florid description is given in the appendix of that voyage.*

It has, according to the description, an island in the entrance
which forms two channels, the easternmost of which is only deep
enough for boats, but the western is 25 fathoms wide; it is strewed
half way across with kelp ; but between the kelp and the island
is a good and clear passage with 6 fathoms, sandy bottom. In
the kelp there is not less than 4 fathoms, and inside it the depth is
9, 8, and 7 fathoms, sandy bottom. To enter this port there are
no dangers that are not visible, and those are easily avoided ;
they consist only of the islet in its entrance, and some patches of
kelp, over which, however, there is plenty of water.

The Gulf of Xaultegua, improperly called Bulkclcy's Gulf of Xaui-
Channel, is a deep opening, trending into the land in an easterly tesv8,
direction for twenty-eight miles, and approaching within two
miles of some of the inlets on the north-west side of Indian Sound.
The entrance is about four miles across, but afterwards expands
to a width of nearly fifteen miles. At the entrance is St. Ann's
Island, between which and the south point, is a navigable chan-
nel, half a mile wide. 'St. Anne's Island is about two miles long,
and extends in a W. N. W. and E. S. E. direction ; off its N. W.
end is an islet, and there is another close to its S. W. extremity.

The land forming the north side of the strait, between the Gulf

* More probably by the effect of a gust of wind, which to the eastward, particu-
larly in the Gabriel Channel, is very common.

t Heiwkesworth, vol, i. p. 73. J Ultimo Viage, Appendice, p. 4».

74 STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS,

cnif of Xaui- of Xaultcffiui* and the Jerome Channel, is called Croker Penin-

te?,,a- sula.

The plan that was made of the gulf is little more than eye
sketch. Captain Fitz Roy, who passed through it in a boat,
and examined it to its termination, says : " If ever an accurate
survey be made of the gulf, it must be when all other gulfs in the
world have been examined, for it is utterly useless; and from the
appearance of its shores I do not think there is any anchorage
in it. Therefore, should a ship be so unfortunate rs to make a
mistake and get into it, she must keep under weigh until she
gets out again. There is no thoroughfare." — Fitz Roy's Journal.
Tide=. Little has been said of the tides in this part of the strait, and,

indeed, as to their rise and fall they are really of no importance,
being little more than four feet. It is high water, at full and
change, in all part within a few minutes of noon. The current
sets constantly to the eastward with more or less strength.

Between Capes Notch and Quod, the current set us two miles
to the eastward in three hours and a half; and from Cape Quod
to Poii Gallant, we found the current had favoured us six miles
in three hours and a half. The ebb tide sets to the eastward,

* The name of Xauttegua is from SermientOj who very correclly describes it. —
Sarmiento, \)p«c 20S,

SECTION VI,

Strait of MAGALHAENS—Sea Reach, including Capes
Victory, Pillar and the Evangelists.

Between Elizabeth Island and the western end of Long Reach Heavy swell
there is very little swell. In a heavy gale, or, perhaps, even a iu Seil ReuclK
strong breeze, a short sea may be experienced in the wider part
of the strait, particularly near, and to the westward of Cape
Froward ; but nothing to be compared to the confused, break-
ing swell that runs in the Sea, or Western Reach. It was felt
by the Beagle when beating to the westward, immediately on
reaching Cape Providence. There seems to be no danger for
vessels beating through the strait hereabouts, the shore being
bold to. Byron passed a night, and a very tempestuous one,
here; as did also the Beagle, the latter not being able to find
anchorage before night. Captain Stokes, upon this occasion,
writes : " We continued beating to windward, the wind squally
and weather rainy. The coast on both sides is bold. Our boards
were directed during the night, which was very dark, by the
sight of Cape Upright when on one shore, and of Cape Pro-
vidence when on the other. We commonly tacked at the dis-
tance of a mile from either shore."

A league to the westward of Cape Monday is an inlet, which Puerto An-
we suppose to be Sarmiento's Puerto Angosto. Upon its
west head is a conspicuous round mount, and to the north, be-
tween the mount and a projecting point, is a confined but
very snug and commodious cove for a small vessel, in 17 fa- Anchoj

_ nam p i f

thorns, at a quarter of a mile within the head.

In consulting the appendix to Cordova's voyage, it would
seem that this projection is an island, insulated by the inlet here

goslo.

near i(.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Puerto An-
gesto.

Uprigbt Bay,

called Puerto Angosto. The description runs thus : — " A bay
formed in the Tierra del Fuego, between Cape San lldefonso
(Upright), and an island in the eastern part of its mouth. The
figure of the island is triangular, and its N. E. point lies in the
line of bearing of Capes Lunes (Monday), and San lldefonso
(Upright). At the east end of the island is an inlet running to
the south-west, one mile and a third wide and a league long, to
the bottom of the bay; the south-east side of the island being
one mile and a half long. To the westward, the distance be-
tween the shore and the island is much more, and the direction
of the second channel is N. \ W. The bay, whose greatest
breadth is two leagues, has at its bottom, and towards the
S. E. part, the mouth of an inlet, the course of which disap-
pears behind the mountains, in a S. | E. direction. There
appeared to be a good anchorage between the island and the
eastern shore, but we had no bottom with 30 fathoms."*

There seems to be no doubt that the island above described is
the projecting point four miles to the west of Cape Monday,
and that Sarmiento's Puerto Angosto insulates it ; but the Spa-
nish chart is so vague, and our own so imperfect in this part, that
I prefer leaving it to future examination, rather than invent an
island; although, from the Spanish account, there seems no
reason to doubt its existence.

Of Upright Bay we know little. The Adelaide rode out
a gale from the eastward with her stem in the surf of the beach,
and the Beagle anchored under the east side of the cape, at
about half a mile S. W. of the rocky islet, and, for shelter from
westerly winds, found it to be very good. Of this Captain
Stokes says : — " We anchored at a cable's length off a small
patch of light-coloured shingle beach, situated at the vvest side
of the bay, in 22 fathoms, sandy bottom. The anchorage,
though affording excellent shelter from the prevailing winds, is
bad with a southerly one ; for the steepness of the bottom re-
quiring a vessel to anchor close to the shore, sufficient scope is
not left for veering cable. There is a plan of the bay in
Hawkesworth from Byron's account, who anchored in the south-

Ultimo Viage, Appepi^ice, i>, 02,

SEA REACH. „-

ern part of the bay, perhaps under the lee of the islands to the
S. E. of the cape.

Cape Upright bears due south five miles from Cape Provi- cape Upright,
dence. It has a rocky islet a quarter of a mile off its east ex-
tremity, surrounded by kelp, which also extends for some dis-
tance from the cape towards the islet, at the end of which there
are 7 fathoms.

Cape Providence is a rugged rocky mountain, higher than Cape Provi.
the adjacent coast; it is deeply cleft at the top, and, when bear- dence"
ing about north, the western portion of its summit appears
arched, the eastern lower and peaked. When the cape bears
E. by S. {mag.) distant about one league and a half, a little
round rocky islet will be seen open of it, about one quarter of
a point of the compass more southerly." — Stokes' MSS.

There are some anchorages on the right, to the N. E. of Cape Ancii<»r,.-(-s
Providence, according to a plan given in Hawkesworth's Col- ?,ea*.98pe

° l & Providence.

lection of Voyages, but they are too much out of the wav, as
well as very open and exposed to southerly winds, to be of u m-,
or to offer any security to vessels bound through the strait.

The distance from Cape Providence to Cape Tamar, is nine CapeTumur.
miles and a half; in this space the land arches inwards, and
forms a bay about a league and a half deep. Captain Stokes
describes the coast to the east of Cape Tamar to be formed into
two large bights by the land of Cape Providence. On the
western side of the latter are several islands, of which two are
conspicuous; they are round and of a good height, and well
wooded; at a distance their form is conical, the eastern being:
the lowest. Between them is a passage to two good anchorages,
which Lieutenant Skyring, who examined them, considered even
more sheltered than Tamar Harbour.

Four miles to the eastward of Cape Tamar is Round Island, Anchorage
to the N. W. of which is a well sheltered anchorage, but with deep ££ "OUIld
water. In standing in, pass midway between Round Island and
an island to the westward, which lies close to the shore, and
haul round the latter to the mouth of a cove, in the entrance of
which, near the south shore, there are 23 fathoms, sand. The
shore, to the N. and N. E. of Round Island, is very rocky.
On the east side of the promontory of Cape Tamar, is the use-

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Tamar Har-
bour.

Directions.

Leading mark
ior sunken
rock.

High water
at full and
change.

Tides.

Tamar Islaud.

ful and excellent anchorage of Tamar Harbour. It is scarcely
two miles wide, and rather more than half a mile deep. Its
entrance is not exactly free from danger, but, with attention to
the following directions, none need be apprehended. There is a
sunken rock between a group of rocky islets, one-third over on
the western side, and a patch of kelp, one-third towards the
eastern side of the bay. With a westerly wind it would be
advisable to give the outer rock a berth of two cables' length
to avoid this danger, on which there are only 9 feet of water,
and upon which the Beagle struck.

" An excellent leading-mark for this shoal, is a whitened por-
tion of bare rock, looking like a tombstone, about one-third of
the way up the green side of the mountainous land that forms
the coast of the bay. This stone bears N. 76° W. (by compass)
from the rocks to be rounded on entering; the anchorage."*

The least water found among the kelp on the east side of the
channel was 4| fathoms, and near and within the edge towards
the rocky islets there are 7 fathoms ; so that with the lead in
hand, and a look out for kelp, which should not unnecessarily
be entered, there is no real danger to be apprehended. The
Beagle anchored at about one-third of a mile from the back
of the bay. The plan will shew what is fin ther necessary to be
known of the anchorage.

High water at full and change takes place in Tamar Har-
bour at 3h 5', and the perpendicular rise and fall is five feet.

The flood tide on this part of the northern shore of the strait
sets to the eastward, and rarely exceeds half a mile an hour.
At this pan the strait is seven miles wide; at Cape Phillip,
to the westward, the breadth increases to five leagues ; but at
Cape Parker it narrows again four leagues, which breadth it
keeps to the end.

To the westward of Cape Tamar is Tamar Island. It is
high, and is separated from the land of the cape by a deep
channel from half to one mile wide. Half a mile off its S. W.
end is a rock.

Between Capes Tamar and Phillip, a space of four leagues,

Stokes' MSS,

SEA REACH.

iherc is a deep bight, with two openings ; the easternmost, in which

arc Glacier and Icy Sounds, extends to theN. E. for ten miles Glacier and

from the mouth , and the westernmost is the commencement of

Smyth's Channel. The rocks, called the Straglers, extend to a straglers.

considerable distance to the S. W., as far as three miles within

the line of bearing between Cape Phillip and Tamar Island.

Under the lee (the N. E.) of Cape Phillip is Sholl's Bay, sholl's Bay.
in which the Beagle anchored in 1827. Of this place Captain
Stokes writes : — " We found, there, an excellent anchorage in
15 fathoms. It is valuable for vessels working through the strait
to the westward, inasmuch as, from the discontinuous nature of
the northern shore, (which here is formed into deep bays,) this
place will be much more easily recognized than the anchoraj
on the opposite coast; besides the winds hang here, in general,
somewhat to the northward of west, hence a better starting-
place for the westward is obtained. Here, as in every anchor- Productions,
age on the strait, water and fuel are easily procured ; but no-
thing more, unless we except the wild berries, (Berberis, sp.)
celery, muscles, and limpets; the wild goose abounds here,
but its nauseous, filthy taste, renders it uneatable. No inhabi-
tants, no quadrupeds."*

Of the coast of the strait on the south side, between Cape Coastbetween

.>•«.-» i i..,, ,i Cape Uiirkiil ■

Upright and Valentine Bay, we know very little ; there are alul valentine

several deep bights and spacious bays, which may contain anchor- Ba

age, but, in general, they are not found in the large harbours,

which are mostly deep, precipitous chasms or ravines in the rock.

The smaller coves, or where the land shelves down to the sea,

are more likely to afford anchorages.

In the appendix to Cordova's work are descriptions of some Anchorages

i n i i-i -x nea* Cape lTp-

anchorao-es, which it may be usctul to mention here: it says, right.

" In rounding Cape (Ildefonso) Upright we found ourselves in a

bay, not very deep, two miles across, divided in its centre by

many islets and rocks extending to the north; the outer or

northernmost of which bears west from the extremity of the cape.

One mile N. W. |N. from the northernmost islet is a round rock,

which is of dangerous approach."

* Stokes' MSS.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Cuaviguilgua
aid Port
Uriurte.

Anchorages To tne westward of this bay is another, three miles wide, and

to the west of a|)0Ut as deep: the whole of it, particularly towards the eastern

C.ipe Upright. r ' * *

part, is full of islets, and at the bottom is a narrow canal trending
to the S. S. E. At the western end of this bay, called by Wallis
the Bay of Islands, from the number it contained, commences
a third, which, with the two preceding-, make the great bay,
called by the Indians, according to Sarmiento, Alquilqua.
It is contained between Cape Upright and a bold projecting
point, ten miles to the W. N. W., called Point Echinique. The
country is there described to be poor, and the vegetation
scanty.

The eastern point of the Third Bay has a string of islets ex-
tending a mile to the north ; and to the south-Avest are several
others.* And on its east side is a bay called Cuaviguilgua;
and a little beyond it, at the bottom of the bay, is Port Uri arte,
the mouth of which is two cables' length across.

Port Uriarte was carefully sounded, but the bottom is generally
bad and stony, with 5, 8, 14, to 18 fathoms. The harbour is
surrounded by high mountains, rising vertically, and with only
a few stunted trees on the shores. Its greatest extent, which is
from north to south, is half a mile ; the mouth is not visible until
close to it : its bearing from Cape Providence is S. 42° 30' W.
There is no danger in entering1 it but what is visible ; but it is
not recommended as a good harbour from the foul ground all
over it. A little to the eastward also of Point Echeniquc is
Cape Santa Casilda — a low point.t

To the west of Point Echenique is a harbour two miles and
one-third wide, the points of entrance bearing- N. W. and S. E.
There is an island in the centre forming two channels, but
with very deep water, no ground being found within 55 fathoms.
At the bottom is a canal trending to the S. S. W., and disappear-
ing* between the mountains. On the eastern side of the island the
channel is at first a mile wide, but afterwards narrows gradually :
the western channel is scarcely two cables' length across. The
shores are high precipitous mountains. The Indians, according
to Sarmiento, call the place Puciiaciiailgua.

Puchachuil-
gua.

* Ultimo Viage, Appendice, p. 56 and 57.

t lb, p. 61.

SEA REACH. gj

The Canal de la Tempestad (or Stormy Channel), from Cnnul de u
the description, is not to be recommended. The water is Very T,,m'"' ~la '•
dec]) all over, and the place affords no security for vessels of any
description.* To the westward is a better harbour, which the
Spanish officers thought to be Sarmiento's Port Santa Monica. port Santa
It bears S. S. W. from Cape Tamar, and it is fourteen miles to Monlc8,
the westward of Cape Upright, but not more than 3 league-
according f0 Sarmiento's account.*^

Two thirds of a mile to the westward, is a point with two islets
off it, round which is Port Churruca, a deep and spacious Port Churrnca.
bay, two miles wide, the points bearing E. S. E. and W. N. W.,
containing two ports and some coves, but with very deep water,
and therefore useless, for it would be necessary to make fast to
the rocks to secure a vessel.*

To the westward of this we have laid down a useful cove, Darby (\>\-.
Darry Cove, in which small vessels may obtain good shelter.

From Darby Cove the coast extends to the N. G5° W. for
seven miles, having in the interval several indentations, but all
with deep water; at Point Felix the land trends deeply in
to the south-west, and forms a bay live miles wide and two and a
half deep. At its western side is Valentine Harrour, in Valentina

. . . Harbour,

which the Beagle anchored, of which there is no written descrip-
tion in Captain Stokes' Journal : the plan, however, will shew
the nature of the anchorage, which seems to be commodious
and secure, and of easy approach. On hauling round the
island, there are some islets half a mile off, which must be
avoided, but otherwise there seems to be no dangers.

The anchorage, as a stopping place, is in from 20 to 26
fathoms, sand, at nearly a quarter of a mile from cither shore : a
more sheltered situation may be obtained to the south-west.

The latitude of the mount (marked in the plan) is 52° 55' 05",
and Ion. 74° 15'. Variation of the compass 24° 10'.

Cape Cuevas, the extremitv of an 'island that is close to the Cape Cuevas.
shore, is in 1 at. 52= 53' 19", and Ion. 74° 17 30". Between it
and Cape Valentine the coast forms a bay with islands in it. To
the westward, also, of the cape, the coast is broken, and forms

« Ultimo Viago, Apendice, p. 64. f Ultimo Viage, p. 150; Apendico, p. 63 nnd 61.

} Ibid, Apendice, p. 68.

82 STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

some sinuosities. A league N. W. \ W. from Cape Cuevas, is
TruxilioBny. the east part of Truxillo Bay, which was not examined.

The Spanish account describes it to be one mile and three-
quarters wide, in the direction of N. W. and >S. E., and half a
mile deep. At the bottom there is a port with an entrance half
a mile across, bearing nearly North and South. It is a well-shel-
tered port, trending \V. S. W. for one mile and a quarter, with
two'small basins at the bottom. The depth is vcrv great, but close
to the west shore there are 8, 10 to 13 fathoms, on sand and
coral. Near the mouth the depth is great, and generally of
stones. There are several banks buoyed by sea weed, but in
none was there less than 7 fathoms water.^

There is plenty of wood and water in Truxillo Bay, but no-
body will visit it in preference to Tuesday Bay, or, rather,
Tuesday Cove, the more convenient anchorage of Tuesday Cove, situated
three-quarters of a mile south of Cape Cortado. The anchor-
age is in 12 to 14 fathoms. Tuesday Bay is larger, and, there-
fore, more exposed to the squalls; but for a ship, perhaps,
might be more convenient.

On the north shore of the strait, opposite to Cape Cortado, is
Cape Parker. Cape Parker, a remarkable projection with three hummocks
on the summit of the high land which rises over it. To the east-
ward the coast trends deeply in to the north, forming a bay, the
eastern head of which, Cape Phillip, bears S. 97° E. nine
miles. There appeared to be several islands in the bay, and at
the bottom a narrow opening, perhaps a channel, leading to
the north.

On the west side of the bay the coast is indented, and affords
some anchorages, but the approach is not clear. The first bay,
however, to the eastward of the S. E. trend of the cape seems
to afford a good stopping-place ; but it is fronted by a con-
siderable shoal, with two rocky islets, the depth is from 7 to 22
fathoms.

The land of Cape Parker will probably turn out to be an
island. To the westward of it commences a ransre of islands,
rocks, and shoals, fronting a broken coast that should never be
approached but for the purpose of discovery or seal-fisherv,

# Ultimo Viage, Appendice, p. 81;

SEA REACH. £3

The easternmost island is Westminster Hall,* a high, rocky Westminster
island; and there are two or three other conspicuous points such
as the Cupola and Observation Mount, that might be no-
ticed. The Beagle ran in amongst the breakers, and anchored
near the latter, for the purpose of ascertaining- its position, and
obtaining bearings for the survey.

Sir John Narborough's Islands consist of 8 or 10 principal Sir John Nar-
islands, and, perhaps, hundreds of smaller ones. Behind them ia^8
there seemed to be a channel, and amongst them are several an-
chorages, but none to be recommended, especially when on the
south coast there are two or three much better, much safer, and
of much easier access.

It is a dangerous coast, as well from the immense number of
rocks, upon which the sea breaches very high, as from the
tides, which near the edge of the line of shoals set frequently
in amono'st them.

A league to the westward of Cape Cortado, is Skyring skyring iiui-
Harbour; its entrance is one mile and a quarter wide, and *
afterwards half a mile, and trends to the 8. W. by W. for
one mile and a half, and then terminates in a cove extending
half a mile to the S. E. with 10 fathoms in it. There are some
islands in it, and anchorage might be obtained in 27 fathoms.

At three miles and a half from the west point of Skyring
Harbour is the east head of the Harbour of Mercy, (Puerto n^bum ol
de la Misericordia of Sarmientof, Separation Harbour of Wal- Merc*
lis and Carteret,+) one of the best anchorages of the western
part of the strait, and being only four miles within Cape Pillar,
is very conveniently placed for a ship to anchor at to await
a favourable opportunity for leaving the strait. The plan will be
a sufficient guide ; for there is no danger in entering. The depth
is moderate, 12 to 14 fathoms, and the holding-ground excel-
lent, being a black clay. A ship may select her position; but
the one off the first bight round the point being equally well
sheltered, and much more convenient for many purposes, is the

best berth.

The observations for latitude and longitude were made upon

* Narborough, p. 7?. t Sarmiento, p. 182.

\ Chart of the Strait ot Magalhaens la Hawkeswortb, vol, i.

S4 STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Harbour of the largest of Observation Islets, the summit of which was found

Mercy

to be in lat. 52° 44' 57", and Ion. 74° 35' 31" ; the variation is
23° 48'.

Three miles to the westward of the largest Observation Islet,
is Cape Pillar, upon which Captain Stokes landed, on 25th Fe-
bruary, 1827, but not without considerable difficulty, owing- to
the great swell that then, and indeed always, prevails near it.
Here he observed the latitude. Captain Fitz Roy also landed in
a cove under the cape in 1829, with his instruments, to obtain
bearings from its summit : but the difficuhy of the ascent was so
great that he did not risk the destruction of them.

Situation of The extremity of Cape Pillar is in lat. 52° 42' 53", and longi-

Cape Pillar. tude ^ 3Q/ 3]^ ^ Cape yictoly m jfe $ 10-, and 74° 50'

55". These points form the western entrance of the strait.
Evangelists. " The Evangelists, as they were named by the early Spanish

navigators, but The Isles of Direction by Narborough, from
their forming a capital leading-mark for the western mouth of
the strait, are a group of rocky islets, consisting of four prin-
cipal ones, and some detached rocks and breakers. The islands
are very rugged and barren, and suited only to afford a resting-
place or breeding-haunt of seals and oceanic birds. There is
landing on one of the islands, and anchorage round them, if
necessary. The largest and highest may be seen in tolerably
clear weather, from a brig's deck, at the distance of seven or
eight leagues.* The southernmost, from its shape called the
Sugar Loaf, is in latitude 52° 24' 18" and longitude 75° 02' 50".
From the Sugar Loaf, the extremity of Cape Pillar bears
N. 38°, W. twenty-three miles and a half, and from Cape Victory,
according to Captain Stokes's survey, S. 42° W. 1 1 miles." —
Stokes' MSS.

The tides here are very variable, and sometimes set to the
E. N. E. towards the rocks that front Cape Victory and Sir
John Narborough's Islands.

* We saw them twenty-two miles oft', from the Adventure's deck. — P. P. K.

SECTION VII.

Of ike Sea, or Outer Coast, of Tierra del Fvego, from
Cape Pillar to Cape Diego in Strait Le Maire, by Captain
Robert Fitx Roy, R.N.

[In this Section references (printed in Italics) are made to a work published
by Captain Fitz Roy, entitled " Views of the Coast, taken on board His
Majesty's Surveying Vessel, Beagle, 1829 and 1830."]

The western entrance to the Strait of Magalhaens is easily Western en-

known by the wide opening between Sir John Narborouoh's trance of the
• . . to Strait of Ma.

Islands and Cape Pillar. The Evangelists shew themselves gaihaens.

distinctly at six miles distance ; they are four barren rocks, about Evangelists.
one hundred feet above the sea. — (See page 84.)

On the north side of the strait, near Cape Victory, is a remark-
able height, called Diana's Peak. — (See Sketch I.) Duma's Peak

Westminster Hall is remarkable, but the land about Cape u'estminsicr
Pillar cannot be mistaken, after a glance at the chart (and ike IIal1-
Views, Nos. 2 and 3).

In making the land and approaching the strait, a ship should Approach to
keep well to the northward of Cape Pillar, and should, indeed,
close the Evangelists, unless the wind has southing, because there
is a strong current which sets across the entrance of the strait,
directly towards the dangerous cluster of rocks called the
Apostles and Judges. It follows the trend of the coast, and
would set a ship many miles to the southward of Cape Pillar
if she stood in for it without making proper allowance. It runs
from one to two miles an hour, according to the winds that arc
or have been prevalent.
When, fairly within the strait, a ship should close the southern

TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

First anclior-
acre.

Apostle and

Judgo Rocks

Dislocation
Harbour.

Law and

Shoulder
Peaks.

Direction for
Entering Dis-
location Har-
bour.

shore. If intending to anchor, the first anchorage is the Har-
bour of Mercy, four miles from Cape Pillar, its place is shewn
by five small islands, round which you pass and haul in to the
anchorage. — (See page 83.)

Close to Cape Pillar are two small rocks, called the Launches:
they are not more than three cables' length from the shore.

The cape and the shore on each side is steep to. Off the cape,
at two miles distance, are 60 and 70 fathoms, fine sand.

Proceeding1 along the outer, or south-west coast, the Apostle
(view No. 6) and Judge Rocks show themselves; they are some
feet, from five to fifty, above the water, but many breakers shew
near them, and indicate an extensive reef. The outer rock is
four miles from the land. Eleven miles from Cape Pillar is
Dislocation Harbour (view No. 5), a place of refuge for an
embayed or distressed ship, but unfit for any other purpose ; its
entrance is rendered difficult, to the eye, by rocks, on which the
sea breaks violently ; and by two rocks under water, on which
the sea does not always break, but whose place is accurately
shewn in the plan of the harbour. (For the appearance of this
part of the coast look at the Sketches No?. 5, 6, and 7.) The
place of Dislocation Harbour is pointed out by the heights, called
Law and Shoulder Peaks, they are the most remarkable on
that part of the coast, and immediately over the harbour.

To find the entrance, steer for the peaks, look out for the
weather and lee rocks, both several feet above water, the sea
breaking violently on them, and when within four miles of the
shore you will distinctly see the opening from the mast-head.
In going in, avoid the two rocks at the entrance, and anchor in
the innermost part ; only a small ship can get out again without
a fair wind. The prevailing winds send in a swell, but the place
is quite secure. Water may be obtained very easily, the boats
can lie in a stream which runs from the mountains, and fill along-
side. Wood is plentiful. Four small vessels may lie in security ;
the bottom is very even, from 15 to 25 fathoms, fine white
sand.

The entrance is narrow, exposed to the prevailing wind and
swell, which might, for days together, prevent a vessel from
getting out to sea* Two miles from Dislocation Harbour, is Cape

CAPE PILLAR TO MELVILLE SOUND. 87

Deseado, the highest land hereabout, and remarkable; a rocky CapeDewado.
islet lies one mile off shore.

From Cape Deseado the coast runs high and unbroken for Coast to the
about two miles, then there is an opening, not examined. Deseado.

Several islands succeed for a space of two miles, after which
you open Barrister Bay, an exposed place, full of islets, rocks,
and breakers, and unfit for any vessel.

Cape Sunday is the next headland; it is high and prominent CaPe Sunday,
(see No. 7). Two islets and two dangerous rocks lie off it, they
are shewn in the chart.

This cape is on one of a cluster called the Week Islands. At Week Islands,
their south side is a roadstead, with good holding in 18 or 20
fathoms, coarse gravel and sand, with patches of rock. It is ex-
posed to southerly winds and to those from the west, therefore I

should not advise a vessel to anchor there. Between the islands Ancno«we

among tliom.

is a snug berth for a small vessel, quite secure, but difficult of
access. The Beagle lay at anchor there one week, in 24 fathoms,
good holding ground.

The eye must be the chief guide in entering most of these
places; they are of one description — inlets between high land,
having, generally, deep water, with kelp buoying the rocky places.
Flaws of wind and violent gusts off the high land render the
approach to them difficult, and, to a large ship, impracticable.

There are, however, anchorages on this coast fit for a fleet,
which will be mentioned in their order.

Six miles south of the Week Islands are the Landfall LjhW&B We
Islands, (Nos. 9, 10, and 11,) so named by Captain Cook,
from seeing them first when he visited this coast.

Cape Inman is a very remarkable head-land at their western Cape toman,
extremity.— (See Nos. 7, 8, and 9.)

Behind the island, of which il forms the most conspicuous
part, is Latitude Bay, an anchorage decidedly good, though Latitude B |
somewhat exposed to a swell thrown in by heavy north-west

winds.

The Beagle rode out a heavy gale from that quarter, though
havino- anchored too far in, she was exposed to rollers. The
plan shews the best anchorage, (and the sketch annexed how to
find it, see No. 11).

8S TIERRA t)EL FUEGO,

Anchorage Between the islands is a snug berth for a vessel not drawing-

LmHiii'i Is-" moro tnan twelve feet, in perfect security, smooth water ; and

lands. a vessel should not moor in less than ten fathoms, as close to the

west shore as possible, with an anchor to the eastward, in the
event of the wind blowing' from that quarter. Water and wood
are plentiful, as is the case in every Fuegian harbour.

Otway Bay. Behind, or to the eastward of the Landfall Islands, is Otway

Bay, an extensive space of water, surrounded by broken land,
islets and rocks. Many of the latter are scattered about, and
render it unfit for any vessel. It is probable that passages lead
hence to the Straits of Magalhaens, as deep inlets run in that
direction as far as the eye can reach, from the Landfall Islands :
they were not explored for want of time.*

Off Cape Inman are several detached rocks, on which the sea
breaks violently, and gives them a formidable appearance. The
outermost one is not two miles from the shore, and shews itself
plainly.

Cape Schetky. Cape Schetky is a remarkable double-peaked height, at the
south extremity of the Landfall Islands, some rocks just awash
lie off' it, distant one mile. The true course along shore, after
giving the Apostles a proper berth, is S. 29' E., as far as the
latitude of Cape Tate, (No. 12,) the southern limit of Otway
Bay.

Cape Tate. Off Cape Tate, which is rather high, and rounded at the

summit, are several clusters of rocks, called the College
Rocks : they are only seen when near the land.

Fincham is- The Fiwcham Islands next are noticed in passing- along-

shore. There are many islets and rocks near, and very many
scattered between the islands and Cape Tate. As a reference to
the chart will shew, there is no good anchorage hereabout, the
coast is very dangerous and unfit to be approached. The Bea-

Deepwater S'^e tr*et* to ancnor m Deepwater Sound, but failing to find a
proper depth of water, was obliged to drop her anchor upon
the shelving end of a small island, being too far up the sound to
2-et out ag-ain before dark.

* It seems probable that a communication may exist between tbis inlet and the
Abra, in the Strait, opposite Playa Parda. See pnge71. — P. P- K.

College Rocks.

Bad Anchor-
aire.

Sound.

CAPE PILLAR TO MELVILLE SOUND. $9

Between the Fincham Islands and Cape Gloucester, is Breaker Ray.
Breaker Bay; a large wild place, full of rocks and breakers,
and exposed to all the strength of the west winds. I had neither
time nor inclination to examine it, for I never saw a {dace
more unfit for the approach of a vessel. The surrounding
coast is broken into islands, islets, and rocks, almost innume-
rable.

Cape Gloucester is a very remarkable promontory, and Cape
cannot be mistaken. (See Nos. 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17.) At a Gloucester.
distance it appears to be a high, detached island; but, on a
nearer approach, a low neck of land is seen, which connects it
with the largest of the Grafton Islands (No. 18). A rock (on
which the sea breaks) lies nearly one mile to the north-west ;
there is no other danger. The cape may be passed quite close,
being steep to.

Cape Gloucester is a guide toEusTONBAY, (Nos. 19, 20, and e11s|0„ ].,.lV> :i
21.) one of the best anchorages on this coast, one which can tf00'1 Anchor-
be approached and left with any wind, without risk, and in
which a fleet may lie in perfect security from all but the S. E.
winds, the least prevalent of any on this coast.

The Grafton Islands extend about twenty miles in a south- Grafton rsles.
east direction from Cape Gloucester ; between them are several
anchorages, but the best and easiest of access is Euston Bay.

Passing Cape Gloucester, you see a high island to the south-
east, distant seven miles ; this is Ipswich Island (Nos. 10 and rpswiri. isinn.i.
20). Between it and Cape Gloucester is a bay, in which are
many rocks and breakers.

Rounding Ipswich Island, you must give a good berth Directions.
to the rocks under water, which lie one mile from its
south-east extremity. The sea does not always break- upon
them, but it does generally. Their place in the chart may be
depended upon. There is no other hidden danger. After
clearing these rocks, pass close to Leading Island, (Nos. 1.0
and 20,) and steer for the opening of Laura Basin, which L;il„ „ u, in.
you will see under a high peaked mountain (Nos. 10, 20, and
21). Choose your berth by the eye, if intending to anchor in
the bay, or work as far up the passage to the basin as you think
proper, then anchor and warp to the berth marked in the plan.

90 TIERRA DEL FUEGO,

The Beagle worked up all the way against a fresh wind blow-
ing- directly out. There is water for a frigate in the basin, but
it is better suited to a small vessel. Large ships should anchor
Good Harbour. jn the bay ; and as the bottom is even and good, and the bay
capacious, exposed only to south-east winds, which come on
gradually and seldom blow hard, it may be considered a fit
place for ships of any size, or for a squadron. Wood and
water are plentiful, and easy to be obtained. The depth of
water in the bay varies from 5 to 20 fathoms — the bottom gene-
rally fine speckled sand.
Bed of Kelp A large patch of kelp lies across the entrance of the harbour,

Harbour. Dllt there is no danger beneath it, except for a line-of-battle

ship, as in one spot there are 4 fathoms only. This kelp was
very closely examined, and its safety satisfactorily proved.
Other Anchor- There are other anchorages among these islands, but none fit
ases* or desirable for a ship while so near Euston Bay.

Hope Har- Hop Harbour is one of those formerly used by sealing

hour. ,

vessels.

Isabella island. Under Isabella Island is an anchorage fit for a sealing ves-
sel, but no other. Rocks lie in the way to it, as the chart shews;
the Beagle passed a night there, but not by choice.

.Appearance of The Grafton Islands are high, and the remarks on the ge-

isfndsaft0n neral character of the coast are applicable to them. (See
No, 21.) Behind them lies a passage, through which a sealing
vessel has passed. To the north-east of it is a mass of land,
broken into islets and rocks.

Having passed Cape Gloucester, your attention is drawn to

Noir Island. Noir Island, of moderate height, about six hundred feet
above the sea, and having a remarkable neck of land to the
south-west, ended by a rock like a steeple, or tower. (See Nos.
22, 23, and 24.) One mile south of this point is a sunken rock,
over which the sea occasionally breaks : two other breakers
are in the bight close to the point.

Noir Roads. There is an excellent roadstead under the east side of Noir

Island. Several ships may lie there, secure from all winds be-
tween north and south by the west, over a clear, sandy bottom.
Wood and water plentiful, and easily obtained. There is a cove
at the south part of the island, where boats would be perfectly

CAPE PILLAR TO MELVILLE SOUND. 91

safe in any weather, but the entrance is too narrow for vessels of
any kind.

The large space between Noir Island and the Agnes Islands Number of
is extremely dangerous for shipping-, being scattered with rocks, Rocks'
some just awash, many shewing themselves several feet above,
others tender water. Still there is abundant room to go round
the island in perfect security, therefore no ship need fear being
hampered by an east wind, in the event of anchoring in Noir
Roads. A rock lies in the roads, and another, a very dangerous
one, four miles to the eastward : they are exactly laid down in
the chart.

Seven miles south of Noir Island are the Tower Rocks (No. Towtr Rooks.
23) ; they are high, quite steep to, and exactly laid down in the
chart. A ship may pass close to either side of them.

Between Noir Island and Cape Schomberg, on London Dangers in the
Island, lie many reefs, and a great number of detached out- mSo °f
lying rocks, which render this part of the coast extremely dan- Soulld-
gerous and unfit for vessels. No chart could guide them ; they
must trust to daylight and clear weather, with a good look
out, if necessary to enter or leave the Barbara Channel, which
opens into this bay.

The Agnes Islands, and those in their neighbourhood, do Agues islands
not require any description. They are so fortified by outlying
rocks, as not to be fit places for the approach of any vessel.

Northward of them is Stokes Bay, and to the eastward a stokes Bay.
number of islands, between which is the Barbara Channel.

No vessel ought to entangle herself in these labyrinths— if she Bad place for
does, she must sail by eye. Neither chart, directions, nor sound-
ings, would be of much assistance, and, in thick weather, her
situation would be most precarious.

Between Noir and Kempe Islands, (No. 25,) isthe Milky Way, Milky Way.
a space of sea, in every part of which rocks are seen just awash
with, or a few feet above, the water. On them the sea continu-
ally breaks.

The Beagle passed in shore of them all, close to the Agnes, Beagle'i
Kempe, and Fury Islands ; but I should not advise any vessel
to follow her track, nor is there any probability of its ever being
attempted.

92 T1ERRA DEL FUEGO.

This part of the coast only requires to be known to be the
more avoided.
Fur^ Harbour. At the south side of Fury Island is Fury Harrour, a bad
place, unfit for any vessel. The Saxe Coburg sealing- schooner
was lost in it in the year 1827. There is little shelter, and very
bad ground. (See page 42.)

Between Fury and London Islands is the entrance of the Bar-
bara and Cockburn Channels. (No. 26 b.) Hocks shew them-
East and West selves in every direction, — the two clusters called East and West

1' Li r 1 1** ^ -»-*

Furies being- the most remarkable. They have been much fre-
quented by sealing vessels' boats, fur seal being numerous upon
them at times. (See page 42.)

Remarkable Four remarkable mountains point out the entrance to the Bar-

MdvmeSoim'i. bara Cliannt>1 very distinctly. The Kempe Peaks (No. 25)
are high, and shew three points. The Fury Peaks (No. 26 a,
and No. 27) arc high and divided. Mount Skyring (No.
26 a, 26 />, and 27) is high, and has a single peak. St. Paul's
is similar to, and in one view, from near Fury Island, appears
very like the dome of the cathedral whose name it bears.

Rocks off the ^ ne situation of the rocks oil* the channel's entrance, as laid

Barbara Chan- down in the chart, is accurate; but no vessel should attempt to
pass them without daylight and clear weather, so that she may
sail more by a good eye at the mast-head, than by any chart.

North Cove. At the north side of Fury Island is a snug and perfectly safe

anchorage, called North Cove (see page 42). It is, however,
only fit for small vessels. When there, they are in security; but
it must be remembered that there is no anchorage in the channel,
nor until you get into the cove, unless you close the weather
shore, and find a creek, in which the anchor will hold you tem-
porarily. At the north side of Mount Skyring is another anchor-
age, Tom's Harbour (sec page 42), fit for small vessels. The
Adelaide, tender to His Majesty's sloop Adventure, anchored in
it when exploring these parts.

Soundings on There are soundings over all the tract of sea between Kok-
and London Islands, seldom exceeding GO fathoms, and near the
rocks diminishing to 20, 15, and 10.

London Island. London Island is one of a large group called the Camden
Islands. At its east end is a safe anchorage called Townsiiend

CAPE PILLAR TO MELVILLE SOUND. 93

H\rrour (No. 27). The Horace Pears (No. 27) point out TownshpnJ
its situation. Some rocks, on which the sea breaks violently, lie Harbourand

ce .1 • 1 j . , J Horace Peaks.

oil the islands, and near the entrance of Pratt Passage.

They are exactly laid down in the chart. As there arc no

soundings in less than 50 fathoms alter passing these rocks, ami

getting into the passage, you must depend upon the wind lasting

to carry you into or out of the harbour. The holding ground in gilJ.0'111"5

it is excellent, and though you have tremendous squalls off the

high land to the westward, there is no fear of an anchor starling.

The Beagle lay here, moored, during the worst weather she had Beagle moored

on the coast. A very high sea was raised outside by a violent

southerly gale, but she remained in perfect security without

moving an anchor.

The lee side of high land, as I have elsewhere remarked, is not
the best for anchorage in this country. When good holding-
can be found to windward of a height, and low land lies to wind-
ward of you, sufficient to break the sea, the anchorage is mueh
preferable, because the wind is steady, and docs not blow home
to the heights. Being to leeward of them is like being on the,
west side of Gibraltar Hock when it blows a strong Le-
vanter.

Between, and to the northward of these islands, are passages
with deep water, numbers of islets and rocks, and anchorages
opposite to most of the valleys, or between the islands, hi which
small vessels could lie securely, if necessary.

Brecknock Passage is wide, and clear of all danger. I Em knock
should prefer entering or leaving the Barbara Channel by this
way, rather than by passing the Fury Rocks.

Cape Desolation, the south point of Basket Island, is a cape Desoia-
very remarkable headland (No. 27); it is rugged, with many ,,on-
peaks.

The next promontory which is approached in passing along
the coast is Cape Castlereagh (No. 27); it is high and re- CapeCulle-
markable. Between this and Cape Desolation is a large space
of water, called Desolate Bay, leading to Courtlnay Sound, Desolate Eav
Thieves Sound, and Whale-Boat Sound.

TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

These Sounds
are practica-
ble, but not

advisable.

Stewart liar
bour.

Rocks.

Nicholson
Rocks.

Adventure
Passage.

Doris Cove.

Sounds to tlie
northward of
Stewart Is-
lands.

Londonderry
Isles.

Treble Island.

Phillips
Rocks.

Rocks and breakers abound, and make these sounds quite un-
fit for shipping ; no doubt small vessels might, in clear weather,
traverse any of these passages, but it would always be with much
risk, and should not be attempted without an adequate object.
Such an object does not now, nor is it likely to exist.

Under Cape Castlereagh is an excellent anchorage called
Stewart Harbour. It is not large, but for small vessels is an
exceedingly good place, being easy of access with any wind,
having three openings. A vessel may anchor in the entrance and
warp in ; there is nowhere more than 16 fathoms, generally from
6 to 12. Wood and water, as in every Fuegian harbour, are
plentiful, and easily obtained.

Two rocks lie nearly in the middle, just awash at high water.
The plan shews their place exactly.

A rock, on which the sea breaks, lies one mile west of the
middle opening to the harbour. There is no other danger.

Farther to the south-east are the Gilbert Islands, off which,
eight miles S. 30° E, from Cape Castlereagh, are the Nichol-
son Rocks.

Between the Stewart and Gilbert Islands is Adventure
Passage, an open space, with deep water, clear of danger.

At the north-eastern side of the eastern Gilbert Isle is Doris
Cove, a safe anchorage for a small vessel. The Beagle lay
there, moored, one week. There are no hidden dangers here-
abouts; the eye and the chart will guide a vessel safely.

I say nothing of the large sounds and numerous passages lying
to the northward of these and the Stewart Islands, because they
are not likely to be again visited.

The Londonderry Islands are the next, they extend nearly
to Christmas Sound.

Treble Island is a remarkable height, having three peaks ;
it is visible from a considerable distance; near it are some strag-
gling rocks, shewn in the chart.

Nine miles S. 22° E. from Treble Island, are the Phillips
Rocks. They are dangerous, though above water, because so
far from the shore, and so low.

CAPE PILLAR TO MELVILLE SOUND. 95

Cook Bay is a large space between Cape Aliklioolip and Cook ,
Waterman Island. Broken land, islets, and breakers, surround
and make it unfit for the approach of vessels. Its shores wen-
explored by the Beagle's boats.

At the north-east is the entrance of the Beagle Channel, and Beagle Chan-
a passage to Whale Boat Sound, both unfit for sailing vessels,
excepting" with a fair wind.

Waterman Island (No. 28) is soon known by the remark- Waterman
able heights at its south part. The southernmost was named by
Captain Cook " Yorkminster," from its fancied resemblance to Yorkminsler.
that building. He well describes it as a " wild looking rock"
(No. 28).

Eight miles west of " York Minster," and five from Point
May, are the Capstan Rocks, above water about twenty Capstan
feet. There are no other dangers to seaward of a line from Rock8,
York Minster to the Phillips Rocks.

Hauling round York Minster, you may enter Christmas Christmas
Sound. There is no hidden danger; the chart and plan are ,SomHI-
exact. Adventure Cove (in which Captain Cook anchored) Adventure
is the easiest of access, but it will only hold one vessel. ' ove"

March Harbour is large, with good holding ground, but Marcb Ir.ir.
there are many rocky places; and one rock, underwater (see bom'
the plan), having- on it only one fathom ; its place is marked by
very thick kelp. The Beagle worked through the narrow pas-
sage, round Shag Island, from Adventure Cove, and worked into
the innermost corner of the harbour without using a warp;
larsrer vessels would of course find themselves more con-
fined.

I do not think a vessel of more than five hundred tons should
attempt to enter Christmas Sound.

The Beao-le lav moored in this harbour all the month of
March, in perfect safety ; but her chain cables became entangled chain* caught
with the rocks, and were not hove in without much difficulty and b) ^ock,•
delay.

Port Clerke is a bad place for any vessel, though quite Port Clerke.
secure when in it; access is difficult, and from its situation, if is
exposed to very violent squalls.

96 TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

Pirtersgiii Pickersgill Cove (named by Cook), as well as Port Gierke,

is unworthy of notice as an anchorage.
Description of Cook's description of Chrismas Sound is as accurate as his

Lbristnias l

Sound. accounts of other places. His " Great Black Rock" and " Little

Black Rock" shew themselves as you enter. Near York Minster
are several rocks and islets, close to the eastward ; one rock, on
which the sea breaks violently, lies two miles E. 20° S. from the
south extreme of the Minster. You may pass it quite close. Off
the " Great. Black Rock," there are two or three breakers, caused
by rocks under water.

But little current sets among these Islands. To seaward of
them, and near the headland, it sets as I before described.
Tl<les The Tides between Cape Pillar and Cape Horn arc regular,

as regards their rise and fall, and time of high-water, but not
so with respect to their velocity and direction. It appeared to
me that while the water Avas rising upon the shore, the tide (or
rather current) set along shore from the north-west towards the
south-east at the rate of one mile an hour, or more, according
to the wind.

During the six hours of falling water, or ebb tide, there was
little or no current setting along shore.

At Cape Pillar it is high-water at one o'clock on the days of
full and change. At York Minster it is high-water at three in the
afternoon.

At the intermediate places the time gradually changes from
one to three as you go to the south-east.

Further eastward, high water is still later. At Cape Horn it
is at half-past three.
Rise of Tide. The rise of tide varies from four to eight feet. It is noted in
each plan.

Eastward of Christmas Sound lie the Wood Islands. There
is no good anchorage among them. Passages and broken land
lie behind them to the northward.
Point Nativity. OffPoiNT Nativity are two islands and an outlying rock.

Hope Island is six miles to the south-east of this point.
Udefonsos. The Ildefonsos, a large group of rocks and islets, next claim

attention. They are thirty-five miles distant from York Minster,

CHRISTMAS SOUND TO CAPE HORN. 97

and bear from that spot S. 41° E. They extend five miles HdefoMo*.
in a north-west and south-east direction, are very narrow,
and about one hundred feet above the sea (see No. 29). They
appear to be the remains of the ridge of a mountain, broken
through in many places by the sea. You may pass close by
them in a vessel, for there is no danger. Sealers have much fre-
quented them for fur seals.

Neither Trefusis Bay nor Rous Sound afford anchorage. Trefusis Bay.

Leading Hill (of Mr. Weddell) is a very remarkable double Mr. Weddeii's
peaked height; beyond it are Duff's Bay, Morton and Hen-
derson Islands, and the entrance of Indian Sound (of Mr.
Weddell).

There may be good anchorage between these islands. There was Coves promis-
not time to examine some coves on the east side of Morton nganc omse-
Island, whose appearance promised shelter and holding ground.

Clearbottom Bay is at the north end of Morton Island, and cienrbottom
a good anchorage. It is described in Mr. Weddeii's useful and Bdy'
interesting Journal.

Indian Cove, in which also he anchored, and remained some Indian Cove.
time, is not a place to be recommended to vessels. They must
o-o far among the islands to reach it, and when there, have a bad
rocky bottom, with deep water, excepting one comer, where the
Jane lay at anchor with the Beaufoy. Many better anchorages
may be attained on this coast with less trouble.

Indian Sound is a large tract of water, extending to the
north-west. It is full of islands.

Between Cape Weddell, at the east side of Indian Sound, and
False Cape Horn (A7o.33), is a tract of broken land, which has
not been properly examined. It is, however, a lee shore during
south-west and southerly winds, and therefore unfit for anchorage.

On Henderson Island is a high sharp-pointed hill, which is
visible at a great distance. From its summit the Diego Ramirez DiegoRamliei
Islands (Nos. 30, 31, and 32) were seen, though fifty miles
distant. The highest point of these islands is about one hundred
and fifty feet above the sea. There is no hidden danger near
them. They lie nearly north and south, and extend over a space

of five miles.

Diego Rami-
rez Islands.

Lunding-place.

Soundings.

Clear Sea.

Orange Bay.

Schapenham
Bay.

Between
Schapenbam
and Orange
Bays.

TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

A ship may pass between the northern cluster and that to the
southward. Detached rocks lie off the southern island : all the
outer ones are above water. The southern or Boat Island has
a cove at its north-east corner, in which boats may land; there is
water on the point close to the eastward of this landing-place.

Their place on the chart may be depended upon, because they
were seen from, and connected by triangulation to, Henderson
and Hermite Islands (Kater's Peak). There are soundings on
each side, but too deep for anchorage, excepting to the south-
east, where Mr. Wed dell lays down some soundings (in his
chart), which were not found.

Between the Diego Ramirez and the Hermite Islands there is
no danger of any kind.

False Cape Horn is a very remarkable headland (No. 33).
From the east or west it looks like a large horn. It is a lead-
ino-mark to the best anchorage on this coast — "Orange Bay."

To anchor in this bay you must pass to the eastward of the False
Cape, as close as you please. Steering N. E. (true) for four
miles will bring you abreast of Point Lort ; a bay two miles wide
is then opened, in which you may anchor, if necessary, in 8 or 10
fathoms, over a fine sandy bottom. Some rocks, above water,
lie at the north side. Beyond the point which forms the north
side of this bay, is a small cove, with 18 fathoms water in the
middle ; beyond it is another cove, rather larger, after which
you open Schapenham Bay (so called by the Nassau fleet). A
north course (true) from Point Lort will take you abreast of
Orange Bay.

Schapenham Bay is one mile and a half wide ; there is a small
black rock, above water, rather to the northward of its middle.
A great deal of kelp, lying over a rocky bottom, is seen at the
head of the bay, and a large waterfall marks the place distinctly.
There is anchorage in from 10 to 15 fathoms, near the south
point ; but I should not recommend a vessel to use it, when by
going further she may get into an unexceptionable harbour, or
anchor off its entrance in perfect security.

The land behind these coves that have been mentioned is high

and rugged ; two singular peaks shew themselves, which resemble

CHRISTMAS SOUND TO CAPE HORN. <)<)

sentry-boxes. Near the shore the land is low, compared with other Near Schnpcn-
parts of the coast, and has not the iron-bound forbidding- appear-
ance of the more westerly shores.

From the heights sudden and very strong squalls blow during Squalls.
westerly winds. Being* generally a weather shore, and regular
soundings extending along it, there is no difficulty in choosing or
approaching an anchorage.

Off Orange Bay anchor soundings extend to two miles from Orange Bay.
the land. The opening of the bay is three miles wide, and in that
part are eighteen or twenty fathoms, over fine speckled sand.
Two islands, the larger having a smooth down-like appearance,
lie in the middle ; behind them is the harbour, a square mile of Anchorage.
excellent anchorage, without a single rock or shoal. In the two
creeks at the south side is good anchorage for small vessels : the
depth of the water varies gradually from 5 to 20 fathoms. The Depth.
bottom every where is a fine speckled sand. The land hereabouts
is low, comparatively speaking, and you are not annoyed by the n0 squalls.
violent squalls which come from the heights in other places.

You may go close to the shore in every part, therfeore no shore steep.
directions are necessary to point out the way to the best berth
which is marked in the plan. Wood and water are plentiful ; Wood and
the best watering place is in a small cove at the north side, called water«
Water Cove. This harbour is fit for a fleet of line-of-battle
ships, and could supply them with any quantity of wood and
water.

Off the north point are several small islets, which must not
be approached too closely ; they are, however, out of the way.

Six miles N. N. W. of the outer anchorage is a curious island, Packsaddie
like a castle, or a Facksaddle.

Orange Bay is somewhat open to east winds, but they seldom
blow strong, and would be fair for ships bound westward. No
sea can be thrown in, because of the Hermite Islands.

There is no current here worthy of notice. The tide rises six Current.
feet : high-water at half-past three. Tide.

Opposite to the land lying between New Year's and Tekeinika
Sounds, called Hardy Peninsula, on the east side of which is
Orange Bay, are the Hermite Islands (No. 34, 35, and 36.)

100

TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

Hermite Is-
lands.

Bengle Chan-
nel.

Nassau Bay.

Cape Horn.

West Cape.
Mountains, i

Current near
False Cape.

Franklin
Sound.

Their northern shores have not yet been examined. The south-
ern are accurately laid down in the chart.

Nassau Bay extends to the north and north-west into the
Beagle Channel. There is nothing to lead a vessel into these
openings, therefore a description of them is not necessary. They
may prove useful for boats, and a glance at the chart will be
of more service, for their purpose, than any directions.

Nassau Bay is very ac?essible, and free from dangers. An-
chorage may be found on each coast, and the only dangers are
some rocks (or islets), above water, shewn in the chart, and vi-
sible at a distance by daylight. The northern shore is low, par-
ticularly towards Guanaco Point, where the coast first begins to
shew signs of approaching Eastern Patagonia, changing its
rocky heights for level land, and low, earthy cliffs.

On the southernmost of the Hermite Islands is Cape Horn.
There is nothing very striking in the appearance of this promontory,
as seen from a distance ; but, in passing near, it is more remark-
able, shewing high black cliffs towards the south : it is about five
hundred feet above the sea. (The Sketches, Nos. 34, 35, and
36, are faithfully drawn.)

No dangers exist to the southward, in approaching these
islands — they may be closed without hesitation.

West Cape is low. The land about St. Martin's Cove is
high and rugged. Wollaston and Herschel Islands have
also ridges of mountains. Kater's Peak, the highest land
(excepting Mount Hyde) on the islands, is seventeen hundred
feet above the sea.*

In the channel between False Cape Horn and the Hermite
Islands, a current is found setting into Nassau Bay, and rather
towards the Hermite Islands, at the rate of two knots an hour
with the flood tide, and about half a knot with the ebb. As this
current sets rather towards West Cape, a good berth must be
given to it in passing.

Franklin Sound is clear of obstruction, and has no other
dangers than those which are shewn in the chart.

* By barometrical measurement, 1742 feet above high-water mark.— P. P. K.

CHRISTMAS SOUND TO CAPE HORN. 101

In Nassau Bay the compasses are much affected ; they become compasses
very sluggish, and might cause a serious error if not carefully "pcted in
attended to.*

A strong current sets, at times, along the outer coast of the Bay of St.
Hermite Islands, and through the Bay of St. Francis. It varies rancis-
from half a knot to two knots an hour, according to the wind Current and

. . . Tide.

and the time of tide; and, in the bay, changes its direction with
the change of tide.

With the sketch or chart, no one would require a direction
to|point out St. Martin's Cove. Temporary anchorage may be
had in the small bay leading to St. Joachim's Cove, or under qJ^ lms
the south head of St. Martin's Cove, where you find from 20 to
25 fathoms, over a clear, sandy bottom. As you approach the A .

western end of St. Martin's Cove the water shoals to 15 and 10 St Martin's
fathoms. It is perfectly secure, but visited by very violent squalls
during a westerly wind.

Port Maxwell is a perfectly secure anchorage, and un- port Maxwell.
troubled by mountain squalls (or willywaws), but it is rather out
of the way. Though it has four openings, only two are fit for
vessels, — those to the north and east. The best berth in it has six-
teen fathoms water, over a clear, sandy bottom. This harbour is
decidedly good, though it requires a little more time and trouble
in the approach.

The passages between these islands have deep water, and are Deepwater
free from dangers : what few rocks there are, shew themselves

* The magnetic needle was very remarkably affected in many parts of the islands
of the group, although I did not observe any great difference, when at a distance
from the rock of which they are formed, or on board the ship. On one occasion, oa
ascending the summit of Maxwell Island, in Port Maxwell, the compass was placed for
convenience upon the rock, when the needle was found to be so much influenced by
the ferruginous nature of the jock, composed of Quartz with large and numerous
crystals of Hornblende, that its poles became exactly reversed. An experiment was
afterwards made by taking a set of bearings of a distant object, (to prevent an error
of parallax,) at several stations around, at fifty yards from the above magnetic rock;
when the extreme difference amounted to 127°. The block upon which the compass
was placed in the first instance is now in the museum of the Geological Society.

No sensible difference, however, was found in the valley, at the bottom of St. Mar-
tin's Cove, where the variation of the compass was observed by several different instru-
ments, and compared with astronomical bearings, when the deviation did not amount
to more than the usual amount of the variation in that neighbourhood.— P. I'. K.

102

TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

Rock off Cape
Horn.

Cape Deceit.

Current near
Cape Horn.

Barnevelt
Isles.

Evouts Isles.

Goeree Road.

Lennox Island.

No shoals, but
regular sound-
ngs.

above water, or are thickly covered with kelp. Some rocks lie
off the south end of Chanticleer Island, too close to be of much
consideration.

One mile to the westward of Cape Horn there are three rocks,
generally above water ; the sea always breaks on them.

Off the east point of Horn Island, are some small rocks and
breakers. Off Cape Deceit are several rocks, all above water;
and two miles to the south-east, is a cluster, rising thirty or forty
feet above the sea.

Off Cape Horn the current is as strong as on any part of the
coast. Between it and Cape Pillar, it is by no means regular ;
sometimes with a strong wind and flowing tide it runs two knots
an hour, at others it is hardly worth notice.* I never found it set
to the westward at any time of tide, or with any wind.

The Barnevelt Islands (No. 38) lie eleven miles N. E. by E.
from Cape Deceit. The chart and sketch are a sufficient descrip-
tion. For the Evouts Isles (No. 38), I should refer also to the
chart and the accompanying view ; and for the appearance of
this part of the coast, from Cape Horn to Cape Good Success,
to the sketch (No. 37).

The space between Cape Deceit and New Island, is free from
hidden dangers, as far as I am aware, but it has not yet been
sufficiently examined.

In Goeree Road, there is very good anchorage in six or
seven fathoms water, over a sandy bottom.

Lennox Island, as well as New Island, and indeed any
part of the coast hereabouts, may be approached with confi-
dence, using the lead and looking out for kelp.

There are no shoals, but the water is not so deep as to the
west of Cape Horn, neither is the land near so high.

At the east side of Lennox Island is excellent anchorage ; small
vessels may go into a cove, in which the Beagle lay moored, but
large ships must anchor in the road, which is quite secure and
sheltered from all but south-east winds, with which of course

* In beating up to the anchorage in St. Martin's Cove, at from 20 to 60 miles to
the eastward of Cape Horn, I found the current setting constantly at from half to
one mile per hour, the wind throughout being south-westerly.— P. P. K.

COAST FROM CAPE HORN TO CAPE SAN DIEGO. 103

a vessel would not wish to remain at anchor. To the north of

Lennox Island is the eastern opening of the Beagle Channel. Beagle Chan-

It is easy of access, but useless to a ship. Boats may profit nel"

by its straight course and smooth water. It runs one hundred

and twenty miles, in nearly a direct line between ranges of

high mountains, covered always with snow. The highest are Ranges of

between three and four thousand feet above the sea. This MoUDtaius-

channel averages one mile and a half in width, and in general

has deep water ; but there are in it many islets, and rocks near

them.

A range of high mountains runs uninterruptedly from the High Moun-
Barbara Channel to Strait Le Maire. Mount Sarmiento, more saSiento!"111
than five thousand feet* above the sea, is in this range. South-
ward of these mountains is a succession of broken land, inter- Broken land,
sected by passages or large sounds. A boat can go from the Boat passages.
Week Islands to the eastern entrance of the Beagle Channel,
without being once exposed to the outside coast, or to the sea
which is there found.

Some heights on New Island were noticed by Cook; they Heights on
were not, however, so visible from the west as from the east side. New Island«

Good temporary anchorage during westerly winds may be
obtained under New Island, or near the shore to the northward ; un"er New
but I know of no good harbour, between Richmond Road and Island-
Good Success Bay, in Strait Le Maire.

Regular soundings are found hereabouts, in all directions, and
the shore is steep to.

Neither Aquirre Bay, Spaniard's Harbour, nor Valen- Aquirre Ray,

... Spaniard's

tyn's Bay, are fit for more than temporary anchorage, during Harbour, and
northerly or westerly winds. They are much exposed to the B5!je"ty"s
south. For that purpose the chart is a sufficient guide.

The tide is felt strongly on this part of the coast, causing ™efc
races and eddies near the projecting points. In the offing, the
current (or tide) sets towards Strait Le Maire, from one to three
knots an hour, when the water is rising on the shore, and the
wind westerly. While the water is falling it runs with less
strength, and with an easterly wind is not felt at all.

• 6,800 feet, see page 35*

104

TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

BellMountain.

Cape Good
Success.

Strait Le
Muire.

Good Success
Bay.

Squalls.

Cook's Broad
Road.

The Bell Mountain is remarkable: it is seen far at sea, from
the north as well as from the south ; it is high, and in shape
resembles a large bell.

Cape Good Success is high and bluff (No. 40) ; some rocks
lie close to it, above water.

The land from the Bell Mountain to Good Success Bay is
higher than that near Lennox and New Islands ; it more resembles
the south-west coast.

Between Cape Horn and Staten Island, regular soundings are
found, between thirty and seventy fathoms, over a sandy bottom.

The soundings in Strait Le Maire are similar near their
southern entrance. Towards the north the soundings diminish ;
and two miles from Cape San Diego, there are not more than 30
fathoms water over a rocky bottom. The strait is clear of all
obstacles, the tide excepted. The land, from Cape Good Success
to Maurice Cove, is high and bold, with water for a ship as near
to it as she ought to go.

Rather more than two miles north-east of Cape Good Success
is a projecting headland, which, at first, appears to be the cape ;
two rocky islets shew themselves close to it, and from a distance
appear like a ship under sail.

Six miles from these rocks, N. E. by N., is the Bay of Good
Success (No. 40). It is a good anchorage, perfectly safe, pro-
vided that a vessel does not anchor too far in towards the sandy
beach at its head ; for, during south-east gales, a heavy swell with
dangerous rollers sets right into the bay. The best berth is shewn
in the plan. Heights, of about twelve hundred feet above the sea,
surround the bay ; therefore with strong winds, it is subject to
squalls, which, during westerly gales, are very violent.

Good Success Bay is an excellent anchorage for vessels of
any size to stop in to get wood or water, but it would not
answer if a vessel required to lie steady for repairs, as a swell
frequently sets in. It is quite safe; but in the winter season,
when easterly winds are common, no vessel should anchor so
near the head of the bay as she might in summer.

The " Broad Road," mentioned by Cook, is a good mark
for the bay , if the inbend of the land does not sufficiently
point out its situation. It is a barren strip of land on the

COAST FROM CAPE HORN TO CAPE 6AN DIEGO. JQ5

height at the south side of the harbour. Maurice Cove has no Maurice Cove,
good anchorage, it is merely a rocky bight.

Hence to Cape San Diego, the land is much lower, and the
water near it less deep.

Cape San Diego is low ; a ship may go close to it. There Cape San
are shoaler soundings towards the east, for about two miles, D'ego'
than in other parts near here ; for a rocky ledge under water
seems to project from the cape. On this ledge there are over- Ledge off Cape
falls, strong eddies, and a violent race of tide when the wind is San Dieg0*
opposed to it.

Beyond Cape San Diego the land suddenly trends away west,
ward.

Cape St. Vincent is a rocky point, with low bluffs above it. Cape st. Vin-

cent.

Between this point and Cape San Die^o, is " Thetis Bay," ,

, . . TlretisBay.

a tolerable anchorage during west or southerly winds, though
the bottom is rocky in many places. Between the heads the
tides run with great strength, therefore a ship should anchor off
a green bluff at the west side, and within the line of the heads
she will have from six to twelve fathoms of water, over a coarse
sandy bottom, mixed with patches of rock.

Beyond Cape St. Vincent the land trends to the west and Land beyond
north-west ; it is rather low near the sea, but in shore are many cent.
hills partially covered with wood.

Regular soundings extend to seaward for many leagues ; and soundings,
good anchorage may be found near the land, on any part of Coftst of
this coast, during westerly winds. access.

The tides, in Strait Le Maire, are as regular as in any part Tides in Strait
of the world. They will assist a vessel materially in her passage, e alre'
if taken at the right time.

As the strait is very wide, perfectly free from obstacles of
any kind, the soundings regular, with Good Success Bay close
at hand, in case the wind or tide should change, vessels may
pass through without difficulty or risk.

When the tide opposes the wind and swell, there is a heavy, Tide rip off

« ■ j j» r% a ^an Diego.

and, for small vessels, dangerous, race of tide on Cape ban
Diego ; where, as I said before, there is a shoal ledge, and the
tide runs very strongly. We found it so in the Beagle at even a
neap flood tide ; but let it be remarked that, on another day, at

10G

TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

Tides in
Strait Le
Maire.

At Cape Pillar.

Strait Le
Maire.

Staten IslnnL

the top of the springs, being the day after full moon, we passed
the same spot at half flood, with perfectly smooth water.

Though the tide was running three or four knots an hour
round the cape, and eddies were seen in every direction, the
vessel's steerage was but little affected by them.

It is high-water on the shore in Good Success Bay, and
slack water in the strait, at four in the afternoon on the full and
change days, and low water with slack tide in the offing at ten
in the morning. The tide rises perpendicularly from six to
eight feet, according to the wind.

At Cape Pillar, (as I before said,) the turn of tide is about
one o'clock (p. 96). Along the south-west and south-east coasts,
the time gradually increases to four in the afternoon at this
place.

From Cape San Diego to the northward, the tide sets north
and west along the shore, from one knot to three. The ebb
sets in a contrary direction, but not so strongly.

In Strait Le Maire the flood tide runs from two to four knots
near the cape, and from one to three in mid-channel, more or
less according to the strength and direction of the wind. The
ebb sets to the southward, about one knot an hour.*

At times, when a strong flood tide is opposed by a northerly
wind, there is an overfall off Cape San Diego, like the " Bores"
on our own coast and elsewhere.

Staten Island is high, and its mountains are generally co-
vered with snow. Its shores lying towards the strait are very
bold and rugged. No danger is near them, excepting strong
eddies and races, caused by the tide near the headlands.

Cape St. Antony, Middle Cape, and Cape San Bartho-
lomew, are high, bluff promontories. The soundings to the
northward are very regular, and give notice of your approach
to Staten Island, or the Strait Le Maire.

# The flood tide sets through Strait Le Maire from the southward, and along the
north and south sides of Staten Island from east to west. It is high-water, at full
and change, at the anchorage within the New Year's Isles, as well as on the east side
of Strait Le Maire, at 5 o'clock. The current is very strong, running from 4 to 6 knots.
Off Cape St. John there is a tide race, which extends for some distance oft" the
point.— P. P. K.

TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

107

General Observations upon the appearance and character of
the Sea Coast of Tierra del Fuego ; Description of the
Anchorages ; and Remarks upon the Seasons, Wind, and
Weather.

From Cape Pillar to Cape Horn the coast of Tierra del Fuego c Pillal. t0
is very irregular and much broken ; being, in fact, composed of Cai'e IIorn-
an immense number of islands. It is generally high, bold, and >r .

° J G ' Nuture ol the

free from shoals or banks ; but there are many rocks nearly level coast,
with the surface of the water, distant two and even three miles
from the nearest shore, which make it very unsafe for a vessel to
approach nearer than five miles, excepting in daylight and clear
weather. The coast varies in height from eight to fifteen hundred Height above
feet above the sea. Further inshore are ranges of mountains the Sea-
always covered with snow, whose height is from two to four
thousand feet, and in one instance (Sarmiento) five thousand.

With daylight and clear weather a vessel may close the shore
without risk, because the water is invariably deep, and no rock Rocks buoyed
is found which is not so marked by sea-weed (or kelp, as is y kell>*
generally called), that by a good look out at the mast-head, its
situation is as clearly seen as if it were buoyed. By avoiding
kelp you are sure of having sufficient water for the largest ships
on any part of this coast. At the same time it must be re-
membered that kelp grows in some places from a depth of 30
fathoms, and that on many parts of this coast you may pass Kelp or sea-
through thick beds of sea-weed without having less than 6 danger.
fathoms water ; still it is always a sign of danger, and until the
spot where it grows has been carefully sounded, it is not safe to
pass over it with a ship. As an instance: — after sounding a
large bed of this weed in one of the Beagle's boats, and
thinking it might be passed safely, a rock was found, not more
than four feet in diameter, having only one fathom water
over it.

Viewing the coast at a distance, it appears high, rugged, Appearance of
covered with snow, and continued, — as if there were no islands. the CwuU

108

TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

Appearance of
the Land.

Signs of
anchorage.

Squalls.

Best anchor-
ages.

Anchorages
where found.

Difference
between
granite and
sandstone, or
slate bills.

Soundings.

When near you see many inlets which intersect the land in
every direction, and open into large gulfs or sounds behind the
seaward islands.

You now lose sight of the higher land, which is covered with
snow throughout the year, and find the heights close to the sea
thickly wooded towards the east, though barren on their western
sides, owing to the prevailing winds. These heights are seldom
covered with snow, because the sea winds and the rain melt it
soon after it falls.

Opposite to the eastern valleys, where the land is covered with
wood, and water is seen falling flown the ravines, good anchorage
is generally found. But these valleys are exposed to tre-
mendous squalls which come from the heights. The best of all
anchorages on this coast, is where you find good ground on the
western side of high land, and are protected from the sea by
low islands. It never blows near so hard against high land as
from it, but the sea on the weather side is of course too formidable,
unless stopped, as I mentioned, by islets.

Where the land is chiefly composed of sandstone or slate,
anchorages abound; where of granite, it is difficult to strike
soundings.

The difference between the granite and slate or sandstone hills,
can be distinguished by the former being very barren and rugged,
and of a grey or white appearance; whereas the latter are
generally covered with vegetation, are dark coloured, and have
smoother outlines. These slate or sandstone hills shew few peaks,
and the only rugged places are those exposed to wind or sea.

Soundings extend to thirty miles from the coast. Between ten
and twenty miles from the land the depth of water varies from 60
to 200 fathoms, the bottom almost everywhere a fine white or
speckled sand. From ten to five miles distant the average depth
is 50 fathoms ; it varies from 30 to 100, and in some places no
ground with 200 fathoms of line. Less than five miles from the
shore the soundings are very irregular indeed, generally less than
40 fathoms, but in some places deepening suddenly to 100 or
more : "in others a rock rises nearly to, or above, the surface of the
water.

After carrying 50, 40, 30, or 20 fathoms, towards an inlet,

TIERRA DEL FUEGO. jQ9

which you are desirous of entering, you will probably find the soundings.
water deepen to CO or 100 fathoms as soon as you enter the open-
ing" ; and in the large sounds, behind the seaward islands, the
water is considerably deeper than on the outside.

There is a bank of soundings along the whole coast, extending
from twenty to thirty miles from it, which appears to have been
formed by the continued action of the sea upon the shore, wear-
ing it away and forming a bank with its sand.

Between the islands where there is no swell or surf worth
notice, the water is deep, and the bottom very irregular.

A small ship may run among the islands in many places, and
find good anchorage ; but she runs into a labyrinth, from which
her escape may be difficult, and, in thick weather, extremely
dangerous.

Fogs are extremely rare on this coast, but thick rainy weather Fogs.
and strong winds prevail. The sun shews himself but little ; the
sky even in fine weather being generally overcast and cloudy.
A clear day is a very rare occurrence.

Gales of wind succeed each other at short intervals, and last weather.
several days. At times the weather is fine and settled for a fort-
night, but those times are few.

Westerly winds prevail during the greater part of the year. Wimls
The east wind blows chiefly in the winter months, and at times
very hard, but it seldom blows in summer.

Winds from the eastern quarter invariably rise light, with fine Easterly
weather;— they increase gradually,— the weather changes,— and wlnds-
at times end in a determined heavy gale. More frequently they
rise to the strength of a treble-reefed topsail breeze, then die
away gradually, or shift to another quarter.

From the north the wind always begins to blow moderately, North and
but with thicker weather and more clouds than from the east- J^**
ward, and it is generally accompanied by small rain. Increasing
in strength, it draws to the westward gradually, and blows hard-
est between north and north-west, with heavy clouds, thick
weather, and much rain.

When the fury of the north-wester is expended, which varies
from twelve to fifty hours, or even while it is blowing
hard the wind sometimes shifts suddenly into the south-west

110

TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

South-west
wind.

Changes from
north to south.

Nature of the
Summer.

Common
weather.

Barometer and
Sympiesometer

Current.

quarter, blowing harder than before. This wind soon drives
away the clouds, and in a few hours you have clear weather, but
with heavy squalls passing occasionally.

In the south-west quarter the wind hangs several days
(generally speaking), blowing strong, but moderating towards its
end, and granting two or three days of fine weather.

Northerly winds then begin again, generally, during the sum-
mer months ; but all manner of shifts and changes are experienced
from north to south by the west during that season, which would
hardly deserve the name of summer, were not the days so much
lono-er, and the weather a little warmer. Rain and wind prevail
much more during the long, than the short days.

It should be remembered that bad weather never comes on
suddenly from the eastward, neither does a south-west or south-
erly gale shift suddenly to the northward. South-west and
southerly winds rise suddenly and violently, and must be well
considered in choosing anchorages, and preparing for shifts of
wind at sea.

The most usual weather in these latitudes, is a fresh wind be-
tween north-west and south-west, with a cloudy overcast sky.

Much difference of opinion has prevailed as to the utility of a
barometer in these latitudes. I can only say, that during twelve
months' constant trial of a barometer and sympiesometer
(Adie's), I found their indications of the utmost value. Their
variations do not of course correspond to those of middle lati-
tudes, but they correspond to those of high northern latitudes
in a remarkable manner, changing south for north (east and
west remaining the same).

There is a continual current setting along the south-west
coast of Tierra del Fuego, from the north-west towards the south-
east, as far as the Diego Ramirez Islands. From their vicinity
the current takes a more easterly direction, setting round Cape
Horn towards Staten Island, and off to seaward to the E. S. E.

Much has been said of the strength of this current, some per-
sons supposing that it is a serious obstacle in passing to the west-
ward of Cape Horn, while others almost deny its existence.

I found it run at the average rate of a mile an hour. Its
strength is greater during west ; — less, or insensible, during east-

TIERRA DEL FUEGO. 0}]

erly winds. It is strongest near the land, particularly near the
projecting capes or detached islands.

This current sets rather from the land, which diminishes the
danger of approaching this part of the coast.

There is, in fact, much less risk in approaching this coast Const not
than is generally supposed. Being high and bold, without sand-
banks or shoals, its position accurately determined, and a bank
of soundings extending twenty or thirty miles from the shore,
it cannot be much feared. Rocks, it is true, abound near the
land, but they are very near to the shore, and out of a ship's way.

A line from headland to headland (beginning from the outer-
most Apostle), along the coast will clear all danger excepting
the Tower Rocks, which are high above water, and steep to.

Gales of wind from the southward, and squalls from the Southerly
south-west, are preceded and foretold by heavy banks of large
white clouds rising in those quarters, having hard edges, and
appearing very rounded and solid. (Cumuloni.)

Winds from the northward and north-westward are preceded North and
and accompanied by low fl)ing clouds, with a thickly overcast wim|s'
sky, in which the clouds appear to be at a great height.
The sun shews dimly through them, and has a reddish appear-
ance. For some hours, or a day, before a gale from the north
or west, it is not possible to take an altitude of the sun although
he is visible; the haziness of the atmosphere in the upper
regions causing his limbs to be quite indistinct. Sometimes, Northerly
but very rarely, with the wind light between N. N. W. and ^D,"ri;foir
N. N. E., you have a few days of beautiful weather. They ss^J,edby
are succeeded by gales from the southward, with much rain. gales.

It may be as well to say a few words respecting the seasons
in the neighbourhood of Cape Horn, as much question has Seasons.
arisen respecting the propriety of making the passage round the
cape in winter or in summer.

The equinoctial months are the worst in the year, generally
speaking, as in most parts of the world. Heavy gales prevail Equinoxes.
at those times, though not, perhaps, exactly at the equinoxes.
In August, September, October, and November, you have the Jjjfjjj^
worst months in the year. Westerly winds, rain, snow, hail, and
cold weather, then prevail.

112 T1ERRA DEL FUEGO.

Summer gales. December, January, and February, are the warmest months ;
the days are long, and you have some fine weather ; but westerly
winds, very strong gales at times, with much rain, prevail
throughout this season, which carries with it less of summer
than in almost any part of the globe.

March, as I said, is stormy, and perhaps the worst month
in the year with respect to violent winds, though not so rainy
as the summer months.

Autumn. In April, May, and June, the finest weather is experienced ;

and though the days shorten, it is more like summer than any
other time of the year. Bad weather is found during
these months, but not so much as at other times. Easterly
winds are frequent, with fine clear settled weather. During
this period there is some chance of obtaining a few successive and
corresponding observations. To try to rate chronometers by

Winter. equal altitudes would be a fruitless waste of time at other sea-

sons. June and July are much alike, but easterly gales blow

June and July, more during July.

The days being so short, and the weather cold, make these
months very unpleasant, though they are, perhaps, the best for
a ship making a passage to the westward, as the wind is much
in the eastern quarter.

Best time for I should say that the summer months, December and January,

passage round are the best for making a passage from the Pacific to the Atlan-

Cape Horn. tjc Qcean> though that passage is so short and easy, that it
hardly requires a choice of time. For going to the westward, I
should prefer April, May, and June.

Lightning and Lightning and thunder are seldom known ; violent squalls
come from the south and south-west, giving warning of their

Squalls. approach by masses of clouds. They are rendered more for-

midable by snow and hail of a large size.

113

SECTION VIII,

SOUTH.WEST COAST, or WESTERN PATAGONIA,

from the Strait of Magalhaens to Cape Tres Montes. -

Very small portions of the sea-coast of this interval were
seen by us. The following- descriptions are principally abstract-
ed from the manuscript Journals of the late Captain Stokes,
Lieutenant (now Captain) Skyring, and Mr. Kirke, Mate, of
His Majesty's Surveying Sloop, Beagle.

Between Cape Victory and Lord Nelson Strait, the
coast is very much broken, and intersected by channels leading
between the islands of Queen Adelaide Archipelago; on to^Ar^M*
the sea-coast of which, to the N. N. E. of Cape Victory, is a peiago.
remarkable pyramidal hill called Diana Peak, which, in clear Diana Peak,
weather, is visible to ships entering the strait. (See page 85.)
Cape Isabel is a steep, rocky promontory of great height,
with a peaked summit, and a sharply serrated ridge, having two
detached columnar masses of rock. Beagle Island, lying Beagle Island,
off it, is wall-sided ; but, although tolerably high, is much
lower than the land of the cape.

Cape Santa Lucia, the westernmost point of Cambridge Cape Santa

Island, is high and precipitous. Cape George, at the south
end, is lower, and forms a bluff point.

The San Blas Channel, Duck and Duncan Harbours, the San Bias
Duncan Rock, and other rocks off them, are inserted from the
oral information of the master of an American schooner, and,
probably, are very incorrectly laid down. Augusta Island Augusta is.
and the White Horse were seen by Lieutenant Skyring.

Cape Santiago, tbe south end of Madre de Dios Archi- Capo Santiago,

114

WESTERN PATAGONIA.

Gulf of Trini-
dad.

Cape Three
Poiuls.

Variation.
Tort Henrj'.

Directions.

pelago, is correctly placed, as are also the general direction of
tin; coast to the northward, and the summits of the land that are
particularized viz. — the opening- of West Channel, April
Peak, Tower Rock, and the bay to the north of it, and Cape
Three Points, which is the south entrance of the Gulf of
Trinidad.* Opposite to the latter cape is Cape Primero,-|*
the south point of the mountainous island of Mount Corso ; J
the land of which may be seen, in clear weather, from the south-
ward, at the distance of ten leagues. It forms the visible
northern termination of the coast line. Viewed when bearing
north, or any point to the westward of north, its summit makes
like a round mount rising conspicuously above the contiguous
land, from which a small portion of low coast extends for two
degrees beyond it to the westward. The land of the northern
shore of the gulf makes in mountainous ridges and peaks, the
average height of which Captain Stokes estimated to be about
three thousand feet.

Cape Three Points|| rises to a lofty rocky mountain, nearly
two thousand feet high, the summit being of peaks and sharp
serrated ridges, with a detached mass of rock of pyramidal
form at the base, which shuts in with the land on the bearing of
N. 51° E.

The variation here is 20° 58'.

Port Henry is three miles to the N. E. of Cape Three
Points. The shore between them is lined for nearly a league
off with rocks and islets, of which several scores might be
counted in the space of a square mile ; but they seem to be of
bold approach, and no dangers probably exist that are not above
water, or are not shewn by kelp.

Bound to Port Henry, a vessel should keep on the south
side of the gulf ; for the northern part is strewed with many
rocks, and seemed to be exceedingly dangerous. The sound-
ings, also, are very irregular, and the bottom is foul and rocky.

The entrance of Port Henry will be easily distinguished by

• Sarmiento, p. 66.

+ Ibid, p. 65. It iisalso the Cape of Good Hope of Bulkely and Cuinmjngs' Narra-
tive, p. 110.
% Sarmiento, p. 65. y Ibid,

PORT HENRY.

115

its sandy beach, since it is the first that is observed on the south Directions for

shore on entering the gulf. It is a small, light-coloured beach, Port Heliry

with a lowish sandy cliff at the back, and a round, rocky, and

wooded mount at its western end. The Seal Rocks, also in the

offing-, are a good mark ; they bear N. 12° E., five miles, from

the west point of the entrance, which is about a mile wide. The

channel is bounded on each side by low rocks, lying off hio'hish,

round, rocky islets, that may be approached within one and a

half cable's length. The soundings are from 20 to 2G fathoms,

on a sandy bottom; afterwards they decrease pretty gradually to

the anchorage, which is in 9 and 10 fathoms.

When the sandy beach bears S. 19* E. mag., the fid? way of the
entrance will be quite open ; and a vessel may stand in, keeping
the round mount at the western end of the sandy beach on the
larboard bow, until nearly abreast of it; she may then pro-
ceed up the harbour as high as convenient, and select her berth :
for the ground is quite clear of danger to the line of rock weed,
which skirts the shores and islets. The depth of water is be-
tween 12 and 8 fathoms, and the bottom generally of sand and
mud.

In turning in there are some patches of kelp en each side,
growing upon rocks that watch at high-water, which must be
avoided: their positions are given in the plan.

As the squalls off the high land are sometimes very strong, it Caution
will be advisable for a ship to anchor as soon as possible, and g^i *
warp up to her berth; which, from the smoothness of the
water, may be easily effected. Any security may be obtained
in this harbour ; the plan will shew that the basin at the bottom
of the harbour is a complete wet dock. Wood and water at
the sandy beach are in abundance.

It is hio-h-water at full and change within a few minutes of Tides.
noon, and rises five feet. The stream of the tide, however, is
very inconsiderable, and never exceeded half a mile an hour.
The observations for latitude and longitude, &c. were made on Situation.
a rock at the western side of the port, marked A in the plan.
The lat. is 50° 00' 18", Ion. 75° 15' 11". Variation of the com-
pass, 20° 50'.

The Gulf of Trtnidad separates Wellington Island from

11G

WESTERN PATAGONIA.

Gulf of
Trinidad.

Mount Corso.

Dangers near
Cape Primeio.

Madre de Dios. It is nearly ten leagues long', and from four
to eight miles wide. Its south shore, or north coast of Madre
de Dios, is very much broken, and, probably, contains many
ports. None of them were visited excepting- for night anchorages.
Under the east side of Division Island is Port de la Morro,
which, with Point Candelaria and Port Rosario, are in-
serted from Sarmiento's account.*

On the northern shore are two opening-like channels : the
westernmost probably communicates with the Fallos Chan-
nel; the other, Sarmiento's Brazo de Norte, or North Arm,
appeared to trend under the base of the range of mountains,
among which Cathedral Mount is a conspicuous object.
From the entrance of the strait this mountain resembles the spire
and roof* of a church, and is visible for more than twenty
leagues. Between the two openings is Neesham Bay, in which
the Adelaide found a secure anchorage in 11 fathoms. There
is also good anchorage for a small vessel in Windward Bay.

The gulf meets the Wide Channel at its junction with Con-
cepcion Strait, where the channel is contracted by an island to
the width of one mile and a half. There are several isles and rocks
in the gulf, of which the most remarkable are the Seal Rocks,
before mentioned; the Van Isles, opposite the Western
Channel ; and a group of numerous islands extending for a
league to the southward of the land to the westward of
Neesham Bay. On the south shore are also several isles, but
they are near the coast, and are particularized in the chart.
The most remarkable is Middle Island, which, with the reef
off its S. W. end, is well described by Sarmiento.*f*

The Island of Mount Corso is separated from Cape Brenton
by Spartan Passage. For more than a league off Cape
Primbro are some extensive reefs : indeed the whole line of the
west coast of Madre de Dios is fronted by rocks, some of which
are two leagues from the shore. There are regular soundings
in the entrance of the gulf, but the water deepens immediately
after passing to the eastward of Port Henry.

Picton Opening and Dynely Bay very probably insulate

f Sarmiento, p, 82 and 83,

t Ibid, p. 86.

PORT SANTA BARBARA. H7

the land that separates them, of which Cape Montague is the pktou Open-
south-west extreme. There are some rocks eight or ten miles off ^ 'md Dynely
the coast to the southward; but between Cape Montague and
Cape Dyer they are more numerous : several are from eight to
ten miles off the shore; many are dry, some are awash, and others
shew only by the breaking- of the sea. The coast to the north of
Dynely Bay is very broken.

Cape Dyer is in lat. 48° 05' 55", Ion. 75° 34' 35". At five Cape Dyer.
miles S. 8G° W. from it is a rocky islet, called by Bulkely and
Cummings " The Rock of Dundee," from its similarity "to Dundee Rock
that island in the West Indies, but not so large ; it lieth about 4
leagues* from the southernmost point of land out at sea."«f-

This rock is a good mark for Port Santa Barbara, from
the entrance of which it bears S. 64° W. (S. W. mag,), distant
nine miles.

At one mile to the north of the rock the depth is 23 fathoms, and
gradually decreases on approaching- Port Santa Barbara ; Barbim!" * '
in steering for which, as soon as Cape Dyer bears South, by
compass, you will be close to some rocks, which you should keep Directions '
on your larboard hand. Abreast of this rock, one-eighth of a mile
off, the depth will be 11 fathoms. The channel here is one mile
wide, but gradually narrows on approaching the south-west end
of Breaksea Island; and at Wreck Point, the west head of
the port, the width is about one-eighth of a mile. There are
several rocks in this passage, but as the depth is from 6 to 8
fathoms, the anchor may be dropped, and the ship warped clear
of them, in case of being becalmed : calms, however, are of
rare occurrence here.

Breaksea Island, more than two miles long, fronts the port, Rreaksea

. Island.

the heads of which are three quarters of a mile apart. In the
entrance of the port the depth is 3| and 4 fathoms, and gradually
decreases to 2| fathoms, but at the bottom there is a basin with
6 and 8 fathoms in it. This is a very good harbour, and from the
rare opportunity of anchoring your ship in a moderate depth, is
of easy access. It is also readily made out by its vicinity to the
Dundee Rock, which serves to point out its position.

• There must be a mistake hare, it should probably have been four miles,
f Bulkely and Cummings' Voyage to the South Seas, p. 113,

118

WESTERN PATAGONIA.

Port Santa
Barbara.

Flirm Sound.

Point Bynoe.

Guaianeco
Islands.

Rundle Pass.

The west head of the port is in Lit. 48° 02' 15", and Ion. 75°
29' 45"; variation 19° 10'. High-water takes place at full
and change, at 0h 28', and rises three to four feet (neaps).

To the N. E. of Break sea Island are manv straff fflinff rocks.
The Beagle having entered the port by the western entrance,
left it by threading the rocks to the eastward, in doing which
she had not less than 9 fathoms.

Between the island and the mouth of the port, the depth is
from 6 to 7 fathoms, good ground, which renders the entrance
and exit very easy.

Flinn Sound is a deep opening to the eastward of the port ;
that was not examined.

Point Bynoe, with the group of islands — Bynoe Islands,
extending" for two miles off it, is the west head of the Fallos
Channel, which was explored for thirty miles without offering
any interesting feature. Mr. Kirke, who examined it describes
it to be perfectly clear of rocks, and abounding in anchorages
for small vessels, although the water is deep. The bottom is
sandy. Its general width is one and a half to two miles. The western
side of the mouth [is a ridge of mountains ; the eastern side is
much lower, and very broken, and formed by many small
islands. At five miles within it, on the west side, is Our Lady's
Bay, of the old charts. Fallos Channel probably communi-
cates with the sea bv Dynely Bay and Picton Opening :
and, beyond the latter, was supposed to communicate with the
Gulf of Trinidad by the channel to the west of Neesham Bay.

The Guaiai^^s Islands, twenty miles in extent, are com-
posed of two principal islands, and many smaller islets — the
westernmost is called Byron Island, and the easternmost
Wager Island. They are separated by Rundle Pass called
in Bulkely's Narrative, The Lagoon;* on the west side, and
at the north end of it is Speedwell Bay.!

Rundle Pass is only a quarter of a mile wide, but perfectlv
clear in the whole extent of its channel, excepting the northern
entrance ; where it is guarded by many detached rocks, which

Bulkely and Cummings' Narrative, p. 106.
f Ibid, p. 105,

GULF OF PENAS. Hj)

render the entrance to Speedwell Bay rather difficult* Ac- RundlePass.
cording to Byron's and Bulkely's Narratives, the situation of the
wreck of the Wager is near the west end of the north side of
Wager Island. Harvey Bay and Good Harbour are men-
tioned by Bulkely. Off the western end of Byron Island are
some rocky islets ; and its north coast is also very much strewed
with them, even to a considerable distance from the shore.

The Guaianeco Islands are separated from the land of Guanneco
Wellington Island by a clear, but, in some parts, narrow pas- sams'
sage. At its S. W. end it is contracted by rocks to a mile and a
half, and at the south end of Byron Island is scarcely a mile
broad ; afterwards, however, it widens to two and a half and
three miles.

The north point of Wellington Island is Cape San Roman.!
It is the west head of the Mesier Channel.

Tarn Bay is about five leagues wide. The Ayautau Is- Tarn Bay.
lands are four miles from the coast, but the interval is occu- Ayautar.
pied by several rocky reefs, between which, Lieutenant Skyring •
thought, there seemed to be a "sufficiently clear passage." The
pilot, Machado, however thought differently. J The latter describes
a small boat-haven on the larger island, but it is among rocks.
Opposite to Ayautau is a port, called by the missionary
voyagers, San Policarpo ;g which, from its exposure to ihc San Policarpo
westward, I should not think very inviting. The Ports of Tiani- Tianilau aad
tau and Asaurituan are also mentioned by the missionary Asauritunn.
priests, in their journals. The former is described to have many
islands in its entrance,|| and to be to the mrTBward of San
Policarpo : and the latter to be to the south of Tianitau, and
opposite to Ayautau.^"

* Macbado, the pilot who explored this coast in the year 17G9, by order of the
Governor of Chiloe, Don Carlos de Beranger, describes these islands at some length,
but with a little confusion of bearings. The north end of Rundle Pa-s, he cills
the west end, and the south outlet, the eastern. Byron's Island, he describes as
being the southern island. I think his Port Ballenas must be on the south side of
Wager Island, for he describes it to be opposite to Cape Roman (p. 213) ; therefore,
Port Eustauuio should be on the north coast, probably, in the strait within San Pedro
Island.— Agueros, p, 211 to 213.

t Agueros, p. 213. % Ibid> P- 21°- § Ibid> P- 238' II Ibid« IT Ibi(1> P« 245-

120

WESTERN PATAGONIA.

Channels
Moutb.

The Channels Mouth of the old chart is laid down, as well
as all this part of the coast, from Machado's account,* who de-
scribes the opening*, and gives its lat. 47° 25', which is only three
miles in error. We found it to extend in a S. E. direction for
eleven miles, and then to divide into two arms, one trending
fifteen miles to the eastward, and the other eleven miles to the
south, where they terminate. They are merely deep and nar-
row arms of the sea, running1 between steep-sided ranges of
mountains. The shores are rocky, and afford neither coves nor
bights, nor even shelter for a boat, and are perfectly unproductive;
for no seals or birds were seen, and the shores were destitute
even of shell-fish.
CapeMachado. Cape Machado, in lat. 473 27' 35", Ion. 74° 26' 10", is the
north head of this opening. Two miles off it are two rocks,
which the pilot carefully and correctly describes, as he also does
the rocks and breakers which extend off the south head for very
nearly a league. The Beagle twice occupied an anchorage
under the Hazard Isles, in the entrance, and on both occasions
was detained many days from bad weather, with three anchors
down.

Excepting this very bad and exposed anchorage, there exists
none in the channel. Captain Stokes describes it to be an ex-
tremely perilous anchorage. " The anchors," he says, " were
in 23 fathoms, on a bad bottom, sand and coral. The squalls
were terrifically violent. Astern, at the distance of half a
cable's length, were rocks, and low rocky islets, upon which
a furious surf raged, and on which the ship must have been
inevitably driven, if the anchors, of which three were down, had
started."

Between Channels Mouth and Jesuit Sound, the coast is
more unbroken and low than usual. In lat. 47° 17' are some
reefs which project two miles to sea ; behind them there was an
appearance of a bight, which may afford anchorage.

Jesuit Sound, like Channels Mouth, is quite unfit to be en-
tered by any ship. It terminates in two inlets, Benito and
Julian. The former is bounded on either side by high moun-

Ancliorages
under the
Hazard Isles

Jesuit Sound,

* Agueros, p. 2l0,

GULF OF FEN AS. 121

tains, and terminates in low land, with a rivulet that originates Jesuit Sound,
in a large glacier. The latter ends in high mountainous land,
with streams of water between the hills : one part of it is cliffy ;
and it has, on the S. W. side, a long sandy beach. In its en-
trance is a large island, making the passages on each side very
narrow, and they are rendered still more so by rocks and islets.

Separated by Cheap Channel from the main, is Xavier Xavier island.
Island,* the Montrose Island of Byron's Narrative.-f- It is
eleven miles and a half long, and four wide, and is very high
and thickly wooded with lofty trees. The only two anchorages
which the island affords are noticed and named by Machado,
the northern one, Port Xavier, the southern Ignacio Bay.J pott Xavier.
The former is by much the better place, being secure from pre-
vailing winds, with 17 fathoms at eight hundred yards from the
shore. The south end of the bay is a sandy beach, backed by
tall beech trees. The shore to the south of Xavier Bay, for
the first four or five miles, consists of a high, steep, clay cliff,
with a narrow stony beach at its base, backed by mountains of
twelve or fourteen hundred feet high, and covered by large and
straight-stemmed trees. The remainder of the coast, to Ignacio
Bay, is low, and slightly wooded with stunted trees; and its
whole extent is lashed with a furious surf, that totally prevents
boats from landing-.

Ignacio Bay affords anchorage in 9 fathoms. The western ignacio Bay.
coast of the island is lined by reefs extending two miles off, upon
which the sea breaks high.

Kelly Harbour is situated at the bottom of the north-east KeltyHarbour.
corner of the Gulf of Penas, in the bay formed between the land
of St. Estevan Gulf and Xavier Island. It trends inwards
in an easterly direction for eight miles. The land about the
harbour is high, rugged, and rocky, but by no means destitute
of verdure. In the interior are loftv-peaked and craggy ranges
of snow-covered mountains. The points of the entrances are
two miles asunder, and are thickly wooded and low, compared
with the adjacent land; their magnetic bearing is N. 48° E.
and S. 4S° W. Between them is a channel of from 35 to 40

* Agueros, p, 205>«»231. f Byron's Narrative, p. 13, 94, and 95, \ Aguerosl. c«

122 WESTERN PATAGONIA.

Kelly Har- fathoms deep, over a mud bottom, without danger, to a cable's
length of the rocky islets that fringe the shore for a quarter of
a mile off. On approaching- the harbour the remarkable mud-
died appearance of the water is rather startling- ; but the dis-
colouration proceeds only from the freshes of the river, and the
streams produced from a very extensive glacier that occupies
many miles of the country to the north. The plan will shew
the depth of water. The course in is E. S. E. by compass,
until in a line between the inner north point, and an inlet
on the south shore that is fronted by five or six wooded islets.
Then haul up along the larboard side of the harbour, as close
to the shore and as far as you please, to an anchorage. The
best berth is when the two points of entrance are locked in with
each other, and within a cable and a half of the sandy spit that
extends off the western end of a high and thickly wooded island.
The ground is excellent, and so tenacious, that it was with
difficulty that the Beagle lifted her anchors. Shelter, wood,
and water, however, are the only advantages offered by the
harbour. Environed by lofty mountains, some fourteen and
eighteen hundred feet high, and ice-filled vallies and ravines — it
is chill, damp, and dreary. A few birds, and a small number
of hair seals, were the only living animals seen by us. Not a
trace of human beings was observed.

For knowing Kelly Harbour the glacier is a capital leading-
mark. It is a large field of ice, lying on the low part of the
coast, about two miles to the northward of the harbour. The
water at the anchorage, at half tide, was perfectly fresh, but was
too muddied to be fit for immediate use. When in the fair way
of the harbour, the Sugar Loaf in Holloway Sound will be
seen just on with the end of the land, to the north of Purccll
Island, bearing W. 1° N. by compass. The latitude of the north

Situation. point of the harbour is 46° 59', and the Ion. 74° 05' 30'; the va-
riation about 20°. The mountain on the south shore, three miles
and a half east-southerly from the north point, is 1,540 feet high.

st. Estevan ^T* Estevas Gulf. The entrance of this gulf, which is

Gulf« situated nine miles north of the N. E. end of Xavier Island, is

four miles wide. The land, on the western side, Forelius Penin-
sula, is a narrow tongue of land nearly five leagues long.

GULF OF PENAS, ^03

The eastern side of the gulf is a long sandy beach, curving
round to the N. W. towards the entrance of the River San
Tadeo, between which and Cirujano Island, forming the
south (or rather the west) point of entrance, the width is less than
five miles ; and at a league farther to the westward, it is not
more than three miles and a half across. Here, in the centre,
there is a small islet called Deadtree Island.

Beyond this is St. Quentin Sound, ten miles deep ;* and, at St. Quentin
its N. W. corner, Aldunate Inlet extends in for about
eight miles. St. Quentin's Sound terminates in continuous low
land, with patches of sandy beach, over which, among other lofty
mountains, the Dome of St. Paul's is seen. The shores are
thickly wooded with shapely and well-grown trees; the land
near the beach, for the most part, is low, rising into mountainous
peaks; a little distance in the interior of which, some arc 1,500
feet high, but they are not crag-gy.

St. Estevan Gulf is one of the best harbours of the coast,
being easy of access, and with moderate depth of water all over ;
with good holding ground, and a clean bottom. The best anchor- Anchorage,
ao-e is at about two miles above Deadtree Island, in from 4 to G
fathoms, sandy bottom. This will be at two miles from either
shore, but the berth is perfectly land-locked ; and, if necessary,
anchorage may be taken up much nearer to it.

Cirujano Island, above mentioned, is that on which the Cirujano is-
Surgeon of the Wager was buried.*f* The missionary priests am"
describe a port on the island, called San Tomas.J The island is
separated from the extremity of Forelius Peninsula by a strait^
one mile to three quarters of a mile wide.

The mouth of the River San Tadeo, is easily distinguished River San
on entering the gulf, by the sand hills on each side of its entrance, 7 ade0*
and the bearing of the east trend of Cirujano Island, S. W. § S.,

* Agueros, p. 209.

f Of this circumstance I was informed by Pedro Osorio, an old soldier, whom I
saw at Chiloe, who formed one of the party of the missionary voyages. I asked him
why it was called El Cirujano, to which he replied : " Porque alii muric5 el cirujano
del Wager." — (Because the Surgeon of the Wager died there.) Pedro Osorio knew
Byron's party well, although it was eighty-eight years since they visited the island. —
See also Byron's Narrative, p. 147.

J Agueros, p, 231,

J24 WESTERN PATAGONIA,

River san (b.V compass S. by W. % W.) A sandy beach extends to the
Tadeo. east and west of it for many miles ; the land is low and marshy,

and covered with stumps of dead trees. It has a bar entrance,
much of which must be nearly dry at spring- tides. A heavy
swell breaks upon it for its whole length, so that no opening- or
swatch way is left, and, excepting in very fine weather, it is very
hazardous to cross. At the mouth, the breadth is not more
than a quarter of a mile ; but, within the entrance, it opens to a
basin of some extent ; and at three miles up it is 300 yards wide,
after which it gradually narrows. Nine miles from the entrance,
the stream is divided into two arms ; the Northern, or Black
River, takes a northerly, and the other an easterly direction. The
former is a strong and rapid stream, quite uninfluenced by tide,
which, however, extends for a short distance up the eastern arm ;
after which, the current down becomes gradually as strong as in
the Black River. The banks of the latter are comparatively barren
those of the Black River, where the wood is very thick. The
courses of both arms are very tortuous, and the bed of the river
so choked with trunks and branches of trees as to prevent its
complete exploration, as well as the detection of the Desecho
the place where the Indians carry their canoes across the Isthmus
of Ofqui.*
Pmceii idand. Purcell Island is separated from the land of Forelius
Peninsula by a good channel, two miles wide; it is moderately
high and thickly wooded, and about six miles in circuit. About
mid-channel, and nearly abreast of the east end of the island, is
H rovk only a few feet above the water. The channel to the south
of the rock is from 18 to 22 fathoms deep, and the bottom sandy.
Upon the peninsula, opposite the west end of Purcell Island,
is an Isthmus of low, sandy land, scarcely a mile wide; the one
over which I think it may be inferred, from the Narrative,^ that
the canoes in which Byron and his companions were embarked,
were carried. One day's journey by land to the west of this
isthmus, Byron describes a river, up which the Indian guides
attempted to take the Wager's barge.+ This river, if it exists,
probably falls into Bad Bay.

* See Byron's Narrative, p. 149 to 156; and Aguevos, p. 209, 229, and 211.
f Byron's Narrative, p. 119 and 120. + Ibid, p. 108 and 111.

GULF OF PEN AS. |25

The Beagle anchored in Bad Bay after dark, in 8 fathoms, sandy Bad Bny.
bottom, and left it at 9 o'clock the following- mornino-. Of this
place, Captain Stokes remarks: " At daylight, we found that we
had anchored in a small bay about half amuVoif ashino-lebeach,
on which, as well as on every part of the shore, a furious surf
raged that effectually prevented our landing to get chronometer
sights. The mouth of this bay is N. 50° E. (mag.) nine leagues
from Cape Tres Montes, which in clear weather may be seen from
its mouth. Like all this shore of the gulf, it is completely open
to the S. W\, and a heavy rolling sea. About nine A.M., we
left it, and proceeded to trace the coast to the S. E."*

To the westward, between Bad Bay and the land of Cape
Tres Montes, is an extensive bight, sixteen miles wide, and
about twelve deep. The centre is occupied by a group of
Islands, called Marine Islands,-f* upon which the Sugar Loaf,
a mountain 1,840 feet high, is very conspicuous. It was seen
from the Wager the day before her wreck.J Upon the Main,
five miles and three quarters N. 15° E. from the Sugar Loaf, is
another equally remarkable mountain, called the Dome of St.
Paul's, 2,284 feet high.

Neuman Inlet, at the N. E. corner of this gulf, extends for Newman Tn.
seventeen miles into the land, where it terminates ; but it is of no let-
use, as the water is too deep for anchorage. It is the resort of
large numbers of hair seal. At the north-west corner is
Hoppner Sound, about five miles in extent. At its south-west |i0pp»er
end is a deep inlet, extending seven miles to the S. W., and 8ound-
reaching to within two miles of the sea coast, from which it is
separated by an isthmus of low and thickly-wooded land. Cap-
tain Stokes walked across it to the sea-beach, from whence he
saw Cape Raper. The Beagle anchored at the bottom of
Hoppner Sound, off the mouth of the inlet. The mouth of the
sound is very much blocked up by the Marine Islands; but the
southern channel, although narrow, has plenty of water. On the
south-west side of the Marine Islands is Hollow ay Sound, in SoLuT^

* Stokes' MS. Journal.

f It was here that four Marines voluntarily remained on shore during Byron's

perilous boat voyage, after the wreck of the Wager.- Byron's Narrative, p. 85. ,
I Bulkely and Cummin^s, p? 15

Montes.

12C WESTERN PATAGONIA.

Port otway, which is Port Otway, an inlet extending for five miles into the
land, in a S.W. direction.

The entrance of Port Otway is on the west-side of Holloway
Sound, about fourteen or fifteen miles distant from Cape Tres
Montes, and may be readily known by its being- the first opening
after passing the cape. Off the mouth are the Entrance Isles,
among which is the Logan Rock, having a strong resemblance
to the celebrated rock whose name it bears. It is broad and flat
at the top, and decreases to its base, which is very small, and con-
nected to the rock upon which it seems to rest. Immediately
within the entrance on the west shore is a sandy beach, over
which a rivulet discharges itself into the bav. Here anchorage
mav be had in 9 or 10 fathoms. It is by far the most convenient
one the port affords. The plan will shew the particulars of the
inlet, which contains anchorage all over it, but the depth is gene-
rally inconveniently great, from 20 to 30 fathoms.
Cape Ties Cape Tres Montes is a bold and remarkable headland, rising

from the sea to the height of 2,000 feet. It lies in lat. 46° 58' L7\
and Ion. 75° 27' 30*, and is the south extremity of the Peninsula
of Tres Montes.

To the northward of it is Cape Raper, in lat. 46° 48' 25*.
Rocks and breakers extend off it for half a league to seaward.

Point Mitford Rees, the northernmost land seen by the
Beagle, is in lat. 46° 43'.

Of the fFiND and Weather.

The climate of the coast of Western Patagonia, described in
this section, is cold, damp, and tempestuous. The reigning wind is
north-west ; but if it blows hard from that quarter, the wind is
very liable to shift suddenly round to the westward and blow a
heavy gale, which raises a mountainous cross sea. These westerly
gales do not generally last long, but veer round to the south-
ward, when the weather, if the barometer rises, will probably
clear up. Should they, however, back round to the N. W. again,
and the barometer keep low, or oscillate, the weather will,
doubtless, be worse. Easterly winds arc of rare occurrence ;
they are accompanied with fine clear weather; but westerly

WESTERN PATAGONIA.1 ]27

winds bring1 with them a constant fall of rain, and a quick sue- Wind and
cession of hard squalls of wind and hail.

Should a vessel be near the coast during* one of these northerly
gales, it would be advisable for her to make an ofiing as quickly
as possible, to guard against the sudden shift to the westward
that is almost certain to ensue. The discovery, however, of the
anchorages of Port Henry, Port Santa Barbara, Port Otway,
and St. Quentin's Sound, has very much reduced the dangers of
the lee shore ; and a refuge in either of them will always be
preferable to passing" a night on this coast in a gale of wind.

The barometer falls with northerly and westerly winds, but
rises with southerly. It is at its minimum height with N. W.
winds, and at its maximum when the wind is S. E. The tem-
perature is rarely so low as forty degrees, excepting in the winter
months. At Port Otway, in the Gulf of Perias, the maximum
and minimum for nineteen days, in the month of June, were
51° and 27£«.

Of the Tides,

Higii-Wateii, at most parts of this coast, takes place within Tides.
half an hour on either side of noon. The stream is inconsider-
able, and the rise and fall rarely more than six feet.

The variation of the compass, at the western entrance of the variation,
strait, is 23|°; at Port Henry, 21°; at Port Santa Barbara, 19°;
at Xavier Island, 20° ; and at Port Otway, 20£°.

128

SECTION IX.

Of the INTERIOR SOUNDS and CHANNELS between
ihe Strait of Magalhaens and the Gulf of Penas.

The western coast, between the Strait of Magalhaens and the
Gulf of Penas, is formed by a succession of islands of consi-
derable extent, the largest of which, Wellington Island,
occupies a length of coast of one hundred and thirty-eight
miles. It is separated from the main by the Mesier and Wide
Channels ;* and from Madre de Dios by the Gulf of Trini-
dad. Madre de Dios, which is probably composed of several
islands, lias for its inner or eastern boundary the Concepcion
Strait.

Hanover Island has the Sarmiento and Estevan Chan-
nels on its eastern side, and on the south is separated from
Queen Adelaide Archipelago by Lord Nelson Strait,
which communicates by Smyth Channel with the Strait of
Magalhaens
Smyth Chun- Smyth Channnel commences in the strait at Beaufort

nel.

Bay, on the eastern side of Cape Phillip; N. 78° E., five

miles and a half from which are the Fairway Isles ; and, at a

little more than six miles from the cape, on the west shore, is

Deep Harbour* *nc anchorage of Deep Harbour, the entrance of which is a

quarter of a mile wide. The anchorage is about half a mile

within the head, off the entrance of a lagoon, in from 30 to 35

fathoms. North and south of the port are inlets, each one mile

deep. In entering, there is a patch of kelp on the starboard

hand, and the shore is fronted for a short distance off by rocks.

R Braeo Ancho of Sarmiento, pi 90,

SMYTH CHANNEL. 129

Good's Bay, the next anchorage, is better than the last, q00&>s Bay.
the depth being- from 20 to 25 fathoms. It is convenient for
vessels going to the northward, but when bound in the oppo-
site direction North Anchorage will be better, from the North Anchor-
depth being less; but it is small, and the entrance is more
fronted by rocks than Good's Bay. If it is not intended to an-
chor in either of the above places, the widest and best channel
is to the eastward of Middle Island. There is a plan of these
anchorages.

Off the N. E. point of Shoal Island is a rocky patch, upon Shoal.
which the Adelaide struck. The channel, for the next four
miles, is rather intricate ; but all the dangers are pointed out.

Opposite to Cape Colworth is Clapperton Inlet, beyond capeColworth.
which is a considerable tract of low country,- -a rare sight in
these regions. Two miles further, on the eastern side, is Hose °se
Harbour, suitable for a small vessel ; and, on the opposite
shore, is Retreat Bay, fronted by low rocky islets. The Retreat Biiy'
depth within is 24 fathoms.

Onwards, the channel is clear as far as Oake Bay, where the °ilke Bay and

ii- /< i -i Otter Islands.

depth is 9 fathoms : but the anchorage is better among the
Otter Islands, the depth being 6 and 7 fathoms, and the
ground clean.

The channel, for the next eight miles, becomes more strewed
with islands and rocks, and has much shoal water off every low
point. The coast, also, is very low on the eastern shore, as
far as the base of Mount Burney, which is five thousand eight
hundred feet high, and covered with perpetual snow.

The best Channel is on the east side of the Otter Islands,
and between the Summer Isles and Long Island, for which the
chart and a good look out for kelp will be sufficient guides.

Fortune- Bay is at the south-east extremity of, apparently, Fortune Bay.
an island in the entrance of a deep channel, which is, probably,
one that Mr. Cutler, the master of an American sealing vessel,
passed through.* Upon the supposition of its leading through

* We met this intelligent person two or three different times whilst employed
upoD the survey, and received much valuable, and what afterwards proved to be
correct, information from him, which! am here much gratified to have an oppor-
tunity of acknowledging,— /\ P, K,

130

Fortuue Buy.

htbmus Buy.

Anchorages
near Zach
Peninsula.

Anchorages

near Piazzi
Island.

North entrance
of Smyth
Channel.

INTERIOR SOUNDS.

the land, and insulating the western shore of Smyth Channel,
to the north of Point Palmer ; the latter is distinguished by the
name of Rennel Island. Fortune Bay is a very convenient
and good anchorage, the depth being moderate, and bottom
o-ood: the best berth is within Low Island, in from 8 to 12
fathoms. At the bottom of the bay is a thickly wooded valley,
with a fresh water stream.

A league to the north of Point Palmer, on the opposite
shore, is Isthmus Bay, affording excellent anchorage, but
open to S. W., which here is, not of much moment, for the
channel is only two miles wide. The bottom of Isthmus Bay
is formed by a very narrow strip of land, separating it from
what I have no doubt is Sarmiento's Oracion Bay.* Five miles
north of Point Palmer is Welcome Bay, also affording an ex-
cellent place to anchor in, with moderate depth and good
bottom. A plan was made of it.

In Sandy Bay, on the east side of the channel, and off Inlet
Bay, on the opposite shore, there are good anchorages: both
have a moderate depth, and are sheltered from the prevailing-
winds, which generally are north-westerly.

In latitude 52° 01' is Victory Passage,^ separating Zach
Peninsula from Hunter Island, and communicating with
Union Sound, which leads to the Ancon Sin Salida of Sarmi-
cnto.J On the west side of Hunter Island is Island Bay,
with good anchorage both to the north and south of the islets.
The Adelaide anchored in the latter in 17 fathoms.

At the south extremity of Piazzi Island is Hamper Bay,
with anchorage in from 7 to 15 fathoms. Here the channel
Avidens to three miles and a half; but, at two leagues farther
on, near Ceres Island, under the S. E. end of which the
Adelaide anchored in 10 fathoms, it narrows to two miles.
Rocky Cove is not to be recommended, and Narrow Creek
seems confined.

Hence to the mouth of the channel, which again widens here
to five miles, and in which, during strong N. W. winds the sea
runs heavy, we know of no anchorage ; but a small vessel in

Sarmieuto, p. 144=

t Ibid, p« 139,

% ibid, p. 14*.

SMYTH CHANNEL, 131

want will, doubtless, find many, by sending her boat in search. North eft-
The Adelaide anchored among the Diana Islands, and in snSXchan-
Montague Bay, having passed through Heywood Passage. ne1.
The northern point of Piazzi Island is Sarmiento's West Point,
(Punta del Oeste*), and a league to the south is his Punta de
Mas-al-Oeste, or Point more West. Lieutenant Skyring con-
cludes the Journal of his survey of Smyth Channel with
the following remarks :

" .So generally, indeed, do the northerly winds prevail, that
it would be troublesome even for working vessels to make a
passage to the northward; but it is a safe channel for small
craft at any time. The tides are regular ; the rise and fall at
the southern entrance is eight and nine feet, but at the northern
only five and six. The flood tide always sets to the northward,
and the strength of the stream is from half to one mile and a
half an hour ; so that a vessel is not so likely to be detained
here for anv length of time, as she would be in the Strait of
Magalhaens, where there is little or no assistance felt from
westerly tides. The channel, besides, is comparatively free
from sea, and the winds are not so tempestuous." — Skyring's
MS.

As the Sounds within Smyth Channel will never be used Interior
for any purpose of navigation, little need be said in a work des- s°und«.
tined solely for the use of shipping frequenting the coast. The
chart will be sufficient to refer to for every purpose of curiosity
or information. They possess many anchorages for small vessels,
affording both shelter and security.

Sarmiento,«f* on his third boat-voyage to discover a passage
through the land into the Strait of Magalhaens, gives a detailed
and very interesting account of his proceedings. All his de-
scriptions are so good, that we had no hesitation in assigning
positions to those places he mentions, to all of which his names
have been appended. Cape Ano-nuevo* cannot be mistaken,
and the description of his Ancon Sin Salida is perfect.
He says: " The Morro of Ano-nuevo trends round to the

* Sarmiento,p, 148. f Ibid, p. 12(>. etseq. X Ibid, f. l4©; of tffc

133

INTERIOR SOUNDS.

Sarmiento's
account of
Ancon Sin
Salida.

Anchorages in
the Interior

Sound.

Canal of the
Mouu tains.

S. E. and S. S. E. for a league to the first water ravine that
descends from the summit. In an east direction from this,
appears a large mouth of a channel, about two leagues off.
We went to it, and found it to be a bay without a thorough-
fare, forming a cove to the north, about a league deep ; so that,
finding ourselves embayed, we returned to the entrance, which
we had previously reached with great labour and fatigue. This
bight has four islets. The bav, from the islets to the westward,
has a sandy beach, backed by a low country for more than a
league and a half to the Morro of Ano-nuevo.''*

The anchorages that were used by the Adelaide upon the
examination of the interior sounds, were as follows:—

Leeward Bay, exposed, and being upon the leeward shore,
is not to be recommended.

Whale Boat Bay, about one mile to the east of Grey Cape.

A small cove on the north shore of Kirke Narrows, about a
mile to the east of Cape Retford.

Fog Bay, two miles and a half to the north of the east end of
Kirke Narrows.

Easter Bay, a convenient anchorage within White Narrows.

The Canal of the Mountains, nearly forty miles long-,
is bounded on each side by the high snow-capped Cordillera,
the western side being by very much the higher land, and
having a glacier of twenty miles in extent, running parallel with
the canal. Eighteen miles from Cape Earnest, where the canal

* " Este Morro de Ano-nuevo nor la cabeza de la banda del Leste va en redondo
al Sueste y Susueste como una legua hasta la prirnera quebrada de agua que
desciende de la cumbre nor un rio, y Leste-oeste con este rio parece una gran boca
de canal como dos leguas. Fuimos alia, y hallamos ser Ensenada sin salida, y hace
cala a la vuelta del Norte como una legua; y como nos vimos ensenados, volvimos a
salir por donde habiamos entrado con barta pena. Tiene este codo quatro isletas
que iKicen canales ; y esta Ensenada desde las isletas para el oeste va baciendo
playa de arena y tierra, playa baxa, mas de legua y media hasta el Morro alto de
Ano-nuevo." — Sarmiento, p. 142.

A comparison of this account of Sarmiento's with our chart, cannot fail to claim
for that excellent and persevering navigator the admiration of all geographers.
Nor should the late Admiral Burney be forgotten ; for the plan formed principally
by him, from Sarmiento's Journal and other documents, is an extraordinarily correct
delineation of what our chart now shews to be the true geographical features of the
place. f

INTERIOR SOUNPS. 133

commences, the channel is contracted to the width of about half
a mile, otherwise its width is from one lotwo miles.
Worsley Bay and Sound extend fifteen miles into the land. Worsley n v
Last Hope Inlet 'is forty miles in length. Its mouth is three Lm* H°Pe
miles and a half wide, but at eight miles the breadth is contracted
by islands* to less than a mile, the channel being 5 to 14 fathoms
deep. Beyond this narrow the sound trends to the W. N. W.

Disappointment Bay. The land at the bottom is very low, Disappoint-

. . ment Bay.

and thickly covered with stunted wood. Mr. Ivirke traced its

shores, and found them to be formed by a flat stony beach, and
the water so shallow, that the boat could seldom approach it within
a quarter of a mile. A considerable body of water was noticed by
him over the low land ; probably a large lagoon, for it communi-
cates with the bay by a rapid stream fifty yards wide. No high land
was seen in an easterly direction ; so that the country between
Disappointment Bay and the eastern coast may probably be a
continued pampa, or plain, like the coast of Eastern Patagonia.

Obstruction Sound extends for thirty miles in a south by east Obstruction
direction, and then for fifteen more to the W. S. W., where it
terminates. It is separated from the bottom of Skyring Water
by a ridge of hills, perhaps twelve miles across. Some water
was seen from a height, about six miles off, in the interven-
ing space, but the shores were so carefully traced that Lieu-
tenant Skyring, who examined it, feels satisfied that no com-
munication exists. This question, however, will probably be set
at rest by Captain Fitzroy, during his intended voyage.

A laro-e plan was made of these sounds, to which a reference
will give every desired information.

Sarmiento Channel, communicating between the east side of Sarmiento
Piazzi Island and Staines Peninsula, continues to the north-
ward of the mouth of Peel Inlet, where it joins the San Este-
van Channel, from which it is separated by the Islands of
Vancouver and Esperanza: between these is a passage nearly
a league wide, but strewed with islands.

Relief Harbour, at the south end of Vancouver Island, is a boeu^

* These islets were covered with black-necked Swans, and the sound generally is
well stocked vitb. birds.

134 INTERIOR SOUNDS.

Puerto Bueno. convenient anchorage ; but the best hereabouts is Puerto Bueno,
first noticed by Sarmiento.* Tt affords excellent anchorage and
a moderate depth of water ; the latter of very unusual occurrence.

SchoonevCove. A small cove, round the north point, called Schooner Cove, is
well adapted for a small vessel, and may be used in preference
even to Puerto Bueno.

San Estevan Jn San Estevan Channel, Escape Bay, although small, is

Channel. . *

Escape Bay. convenient and well sheltered. Opposite the south end of Es-

EiienBay. peranza Island is the deep opening- of Ellen Bay, which may
probably be a channel passing- through and dividing Hanover

Rejoice Har- Island. To the north the anchorages of Rejoice Harbour and

bour. Anchor Bay are commodious and useful.

Peel rniet. Peel Inlet extends in for seven leagues, communicating

with Pitt Channel, and insulating Chatham Island, which
is separated from the north end of Hanover Island by a con-
tinuation of the Sarmiento and San Estevan Channels, of which

Guia Narrows, the principal feature is the Guia Narrows. -f« These narrows
are six miles long, and, excepting the north end, where it is only
one-fifth of a mile wide, is from half to one mile broad. The
tides here are not very rapid. High-water at full and change
takes place at 2h 8', the flood running to the southward. At
the south entrance of San Estevan Channel, the reverse is the
case, of which, for vessels passing through, some advantage may
be taken.
The north-west, coast of Chatham Island has many bights

Guard Bay. and coves fronted by islands, among which is Guard Bay, where
the Adelaide anchored ; but the coast is too exposed to the sea
and prevailing winds, to offer much convenient or even secure
shelter.

The north-west points of Hanover and Chatham Islands are
more than ten miles apart, and midway between them is situated
Sarmiento's Innocents Island (Isla de los Ignocentcs).*
Concepcion Strait separates Madre de Dios and its island

* Sarmiento, p. 133.

•j- So called after Sarmiento's boat. It was by this route lie passed down to the
examination of his Aocon Sin Salida; he describes it as a narrow, 300 jJaoes wide. —
Sarmiento, p, 130.

C0NCEPC10N STRAIT. 135

to the southward from the main land. It commences at Cape Conception
Santiago, in hit. 50£°, and joins the Wide Channel, or
Brazo Ancho of Sarmiento, in 50" 05'. On the west side
(the eastern coast of Madre de Dios) are several convenient
anchorages, particularly Walker Bay, a bay to the north of
Point Michael, and Tom Bay; all of which, being- on the
weather shore, afford secure anchorage : but the squalls off the
high land are not less felt than in other parts.

St. Andrew Sound is four leagues wide ; but the mouth st. Andrew's
is much occupied by the Canning Isles, upon the northern- Sound-
most of which, at the south-west end, is Portland Bay, a
good anchorage for a small vessel, in 9 fathoms. The principal
entrance of St. Andrew Sound is to the north of Chatham
Island. It is five miles wide, and, at six leagues within,
divides into two arms ; the northern one is five or six leagues
long, and terminates ; but the southern channel, which is Pitt
Channel, trends behind Chatham Island, and communicates, as
before mentioned, with Peel Inlet.

The anchorage of Expectation Bay, five leagues within Expectation
the sound, at the east extremity of the Kentish Isles, was used y*
by the Adelaide in her examination of these inlets.

At Point Brazo Ancho the Gulf of Trinidad commences, Point Brazo
and the Concepcion Strait terminates; for its continuation to AncLo-
the N. E. bears the name of Wide Channel, which is forty miles
long, and from one and three-quarters to three and half
miles broad.

At Saumarez Island it joins the Mesier Channel, and to Mesier Clian-
the N. E. communicates with Sir George Eyre Sound, ne '
which is forty miles long, and with an average breadth of four Eyre Sound.
miles. Near the entrance on the east side was found a larcc
rookery of seals, and another, thirteen miles farther up, on the
same side, in latitude 48° 21'.

The southern end of the Mesier Channel, for nearly ten rmIian Reech

leagues, is named Indian Reach. It is narrow, and has inanv and Ensli3h
. ° J Narrows.

islets, but the water is deep. Then follows English Narrows,
twelve miles long, and from half to one mile and a quarter
wide j but many parts are contracted by islands to four hundred

136 INTERIOR SOUNDS.

Mesier Chun- yards. The passage lies on the west side of the channel, to the
westward of all the islands.

From the north end of the Narrows to the outlet of the
Mesier, at Tarn Bay, in the Gulf of Pen as, a distance of
seventy-five miles, the channel is quite open and free from
all impediment.
Anchorages in The anchorages in the Wide and Mesier Channels are
Mester cimn- more numerous than we have any account of. Those occupied
Rels' by the Adelaide in her course through, are as follows, viz : —

Fatal Bay, in latitude 47° 55', on the western shore, at the
north entrance of the channel, insulating Millar Island.
This bay is open and exposed.

Island Harbour, on the east shore, in latitude 4Sr 06' 03", is
a small but excellent land-locked anchorage, with good holding
ground ; wood and water close at hand, and abundance of fish.
Waterfall Bay, in lat. 48° 17' ; at the entrance of an inlet
on the east side of the channel.
Tides. At this part of the Mesier Channel the tides are regular, and

run six hours each way, the flood setting N. by W.

White Kelp Cove, on the north side of Lion Bay, about
one mile within the head, is confined, and only fit for a small
vessel.

Halt Bay, on the east shore, at the north end of the
,, , English Narrows, in latitude 48° 54'. Here the flood sets to

lie, US' o

the S. S. E., and the tide being confined by the narrow width of
the channel, runs with considerable strength.

Level Bay, on the eastern side of the channel, at the south
end of the narrows ; is in latitude 49° 07' 30".

Rocky Bight, opposite the N. E. point of Saumarez Island,
in from 17 to 12 fathoms.

Fury Cove, near Red Cape, the extremity of Exmouth
Promontory. It is very confined, there not being room for
more than two small vessels; but the ground is good, and
although open to the S. W., it is a secure haven.

Sandy Bay, on the west shore of Wide Channel, in lat.
■19° 45' 30".

Sjiall Craft Bight, also on the west shore, near the south

MESIER CHANNEL. 137

end of the Wide Channel, is of small size, but answers every Anchorages in
purpose of a stopping-place for the night. 3wI?Ch£

Open Bay, on the east shore, opposite the Gulf of Trinidad. nels>
The anchorage is sheltered by two islands; but it is too exposed
to trust a vessel in, and therefore not to be recommended.

Besides the above anchorages, there are many equally con-
venient, and, perhaps, much better, that may be occupied by
vessels navigating these channels. Every bight offers an an-
chorage, and almost any may be entered with safety. On all
occasions the weather shore should be preferred, and a shelving
coast is generally fronted by shoaler soundings, and more likely
to afford moderate depth of water than the steep-sided coasts;
for in the great depth of water alone consists the difficulty of
navigating these channels.

Throughout the whole space between the Strait of Magal-
haens and the Gulf of Penas, there is abundance of wood and
water, fish, shell-fish, celery, and birds.

138

SECTION X.

REMARKS upon the PASSAGE round CAPE HORN, and
to and from the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, through the
Strait of Magalhaens.

Advantageous Ships bound from the Atlantic to any of the ports in the
to keep close Pacific, will find it advantageous to keep within 100 miles of the

to the land. ' & r

coast of Eastern Patagonia, as well to avoid the heavy sea that
is raised by the westerly gales, which prevail to the eastward,
and increase in strength according to the distance from the land,
as to profit by the variableness of the wind when fixed in the
western board. Near the coast, from April to September, when

Winds during , . . . .. . . pi

the winter the sun has north declination, the winds prevail more Irom the
months. w N> w tQ N> N> w than from any Qther quarter# Easterly

Easterly gales gales are of very rare occurrence, but even when they do
oi rare occur- |j]OW) f}ie direction being obliquely upon the coast, I do not con-
sider it at all hazardous to keep the land on board. In the
winds during opposite season, when the sun has south declination, the winds
the summer. wjjj jnc]ine from the southward of west, and frequently blow
hard ; but, as the coast is a weather shore, the sea goes down
immediately after the gale. In this season, although the winds
Winds variable are generally against a ship's making quick progress, yet as they
seldom remain fixed in one point, and frequently shift backward
and forward 6 or 8 points in as many hours, advantage may be
taken of the change so as to keep close in with the coast.

„ , „ Having once made the land, which should be done to the south-

To make the rt ' . .

land near Cape ward of Cape Blanco, it will be beneficial to keep it topping on
the horizon, until the entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens be
passed.

PASSAGE ROUND CAPE HORN 139

gaga

With resped to this part of the voyage, whether to pass Pasgag
through Strait Le Maire, or round Staten Island, much difference jjfjgj^/"**
of opinion exists. Prudence, I think, suggests the latter ; yet I
should very reluctantly give up the opportunity that might offer
of clearing the Strait, and therefore of being1 so much more to
windward. With a southerly wind it would not be advisable to Not advisable
attempt the strait; for, with a weather tide, the sea runs very cross winds!°U " *
and deep, and might severely injure and endanger the safety of
a small vessel, and to a large one do much damage. In calm
weather it would be still more imprudent (unless the western side
of the Strait can be reached, where a ship might anchor), on
account of the tides setting over to the Staten Island side; where,
if it becomes necessary to anchor, it would necessarily be in very
deep water, and close to the land. With a northerly wind the But with
route seems not only practicable, but very advantageous, and it ™^dbserly
would require some resolution to give up the opportunity so in- practicable.
vitingly offered. I doubt whether northerly winds, unless they Northerly
are very strong, blow through the Strait — if not, a ship is drifted *''"ds do not
over to the eastern shores, where, from the force of the tides, she
must be quite unmanageable.

Captain Fitz Roy, whose authority, from his experience, must
be verv o-ood, seems to think there is neither difficulty nor risk in
passing the strait (see p. 105). The only danger that does exist,
and that may be an imaginary one, is the failure of the wind.
Ships passing through it from the south, are not so liable to the Passage
failure of the south-westerly wind, unless it be light, and then it through the

1 ° Strait from the

will probably be from the N. W., at the northern end of the southward,
strait. The anchorage in Good Success Bay, however, is admirably
situated, should the wind or tide fatf. (See p. 104.)

In passing to leeward of Staten Island, the tide race, which ex- Tide race off
tends for some distance off Cape St. John, at the N. E. end of Ca',e SL John-
the island, must be avoided, otherwise there exist no dangers.
(See note at p. 106, relating to the tide.)

The anchorage under New Year's Islands, although it is a Anchorage un-
wild one and the bottom bad, and the tide very strong, yet islands,
offers good shelter from south-west winds, and might be occu-
pied with advantage during the existence of a gale from that
quarter; since it is unfavourable for ships bound round the Horn.

140

PASSAGE ROUND CAPE HORN.

To stand to
the southward
as far as CO0 S.
lat.

Winter pas-
sage preferable
to the summer.

Advice after
passing round
Tierra del
Fuego.

North-west
winds

Barometer.

After passing1 Staten Island, if the wind be westerly, the ship
should be kept upon the starboard tack, unless it veers to
the southward of S. S. W., until she reaches the latitude of 60°
south, and then upon that tack upon which most westing may
be made. In this parallel, however, the wind is thought to pre-
vail more from the eastward than from anv other quarter. Never
having passed round Cape Horn in the summer season, I may
not perhaps be justified in opposing my opinion to that of others ;
who, having tried both seasons, give the preference to the summer
months. The advantage of long days is certainly ve^y great,
but from my experience of the winds and weather during these
opposite seasons at Port Famine, I preferred the winter passage,
and in our subsequent experience of it, found no reason to alter
my opinion. Easterly and northerly winds prevail in the winter
off the cape, whilst southerly and westerly winds are constant
during the summer months ; and not only are the winds more
favourable in the winter, but they are moderate in comparison to
the fury of the summer gales. (See p. 112.)

Having passed the meridian of Cape Pillar, it will yet
be advisable to take every opportunity of making westing in
preference to northing until reaching the meridian of 82° or 84°,
which will enable a ship to steer through the North-westerly
winds that prevail between the parallels of 50° and 54°. (See
Hall's South America, Appendix.)

With respect to the utility of the barometer as an indicator of
the weather that is experienced offCape Horn, T do not think it can
be considered so unfailing a guide as it is in the lower or middle
latitudes. Captain Fitz Roy, however, has a better opinion of the
indications shewn by this valuable instrument: my opinion is,
that although the rise or fall precedes the change, yet it more
frequently accompanies it. The following sketch of the move-
ment of the barometer, and of the weather that we experienced,
may not be without its use.

Being to the north of Staten Island for three days preceding
full moon, which occurred on the 3rd April, (1829,) we had
very foggy weather, with light winds from the eastward and
northward, causing a fall of the mercury from 29'90'to 29*56.
On the day of full moon the column rose, and we had a beautiful

BAROMETER OFF CAPE HORN. 141

morning, during; which the high mountains of Staten Island were Weather off

quite unclouded, as were also those of Tierra del Fuego. At ape

noon, however, a fresh gale from the S. W. set in, and enveloped

the land with a dense mist. No sooner had the wind changed,

than the mercurv rose to 29*95, but fell again the next morning ;

and with the descent the wind veered round to, and blew strong

from N. W., with thick cloudy weather and rain, which continued

until the following' noon, when the wind veered to S. W., the

barometer at 29*54, having slightly risen ; but after the change

it fell and continued to descend gradually until midnight, when

we had a fresh "-ale from W. S. W. When this wind set in, the

mercury rose, and continued to rise, as the wind veered without

decreasing in strength to S. S. W., until it reached 29*95, when

it fell again and the weather moderated, but without any change

of wind. During the descent of the mercury, the sky with us

was dull and overcast with squalls of wind and rain, but on shore

it seemed to be very fine sunshiny weather.

The colimn now fell to 29*23, and during its descent the
weather remained the same, dull and showery ; but as soon as the
mercury became stationary, a fresh breeze set in from the south-
ward, with fine weather.

After this to new moon the weather was very unsettled, the
wind veering between South and W. S. W. ; the barometer rising
as it veered to the former, and falling as it became more westerly ;
but on no occasion did it precede the change.

The mean height of the barometer is about 29*5.

The mercury stands lowest with N. W. winds, and highest
with S. E.

With the wind at N. W. or northerly the mercury is low,
if it falls to 29 inches or 28*80, a S. W. gale may be expected,
but does not commence until the column has ceased to descend.
It frequently however falls without being followed by this change.
In the month of June, at Port Famine, the barometer fell to 28*17,
and afterwards gradually rose to 30-5, which was followed by
cold weather, in which the thermometer stood at 12*.

142

PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT

The following table shews the mean temperature and pressure
as registered at the Observatory at Port Famine in the Strait.

Meteorologi-
cal Abstract.

Passage
through the
Strait.

1828.

Temperature.

Pressure.

February . .

51-1

29-40

March ....

49-4

29-64

April ....

41-2

29-57

May

35-5

29*30

June ,

32-9

29-28

July

33-0

29-57

August ....

33-2

29-28

Of the Passage to and from the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans,
by the Strait of Magaliiaens.

The difficulties that present themselves to Navigators in passing
round Cape Horn, as well from adverse winds as the severe
gales and heavy sea that they are exposed to, are so great, that
the Strait of Magalhaens has naturally been looked to as a route
by which they may be avoided. Hitherto no chart has existed
in which much confidence could be placed; but by the present
survey, thenavigation through it, independent of wind and weather,
has been rendered much easier ; since a correct delineation of its
shores, and plans of the anchorages, have been made ; and in the
preceding pages sufficient descriptions of them have been given
to assure the navigator of his place, and furnish him with advice
as to his proceedings. The local difficulties therefore have been
removed, but there remain much more serious ones, which I
should not recommend a large, or even any but a very active and
fast-sailing, square-rigged vessel to encounter, unless detention
be not an object of importance

For a square-rigged vessel bound through the Strait, the fol-
lowing- directions will be useful : —

FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC. H3

In the eastern entrance, the winds will frequently favour a shin's Directions for
arrival off the First Narrow ; where, if she selects a good anchorage g"^""8 the
on the bank which bounds the northern side of the channel (see
p. 20 to 22), she may await an opportunity of passing through
the First Narrow and of reaching Gregory Bay; where also
a delay may safely be made for the purpose of passing the Second
Narrow and arriving at the neighbourhood of Cape Negro ;
at which place the difficulties and dangers of the eastern entrance

cease.

The dangers being carefully placed on the chart, and sufficiently
described in the preceding part of this memoir, nothing need be
repeated here; and indeed much must be left to the judgment
and discretion of the navigator.

The passage of the First Narrow, the anchorage to the
eastward of, and in, Gregory Bay, the passage of the Second
Narrow, the anchorage to the north of Elizabeth Island, and the
passage, round its south side, are described between pages 20

and 27.

The tides answer best for vessels entering the Strait at the period Best time to
of full and change of the moon, since there are two westerly tides xlnow.
in the day. In the winter season, if the morning tide be not suffici-
ent to carry a vessel through the First Narrow, she may return
to Possession Bay, select an anchorage, and be secured again be-
fore night; or, in the summer, if she has passed the Narrow, and
enabled to anchor for the tide, there will be sufficient daylight
for her to proceed with the following tide to Gregory Bay, or
at least to a safe anchorage off the peaked hillocks, on the north
shore. (See page 23.)

I have twice attempted to pass the First Narrow, and been
obliged to return to the anchorage in Possession Bay (seep. 21) ;
and twice I have passed through it against a strong breeze blow-
ino* directly through, by aid of the tide ; which runs, in the narrower
parts, at the rate often or twelve miles an hour. When the tide Tldeinthe
and wind are opposed to each other, the sea is very deep and First Narrow.
heavy, and breaks high over the decks ; it is therefore advisable
to close reef, or lower the topsails on the cap, and drift through;
for the tide, if at the springs, will generally be sufficient to carry

144

PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT.

Tide in the
Second Nar-
row.

Anchorage off
the north end
of Elizabeth
Island.

Advisable
to keep near
the ahore.

Heavy squalls.

Anchorages to
the west of
Cape Froward.

a ship to an anchorage although, not always to one that it would
be safe to pass the night at. On this account, it would be prudent
to return ; for, although the holding1 ground is exceedingly good,
yet, to part in the night, or drift towards, or through the Narrow,
could scarcely happen without accident.

In leaving the anchorage in Gregory Bay, attention must be
paid to the tide, which continues to run to the eastward in the
Second Narrow, three hours after it has commenced to set to
the S. W. at the anchorage, (see p. 24).

With a leading wind through the Second Narrow, a ship will
easily reach an anchorage off Laredo Bay (p. 2S;) but, if the
tide fails upon emerging from it, she should seek for a berth in
the Bay to the north of Elizabeth Island, (p. 26 and 27) as near
to the island as possible, but to the westward of its N. E. end, to
be out of the influence of the tide. The depth of water, however,
will be the best guide.

Directions to pass roimd the south side of Elizabeth Island are
given at p. 27 ; and as this part offers some dangers, the chart and
the description should be carefully referred to.

The only advice that seems wanting to improve the directions
of the coast from this to Port Famine is, with a south-westerly
wind, to keep close to the weather shore, in order to benefit by the
flaws down the vallies ; but this must be done with caution, in con-
sequence of the squalls off the high land, the violence of which, to
a person unaccustomed to them, cannot be well imagined, (p. 29).

The fourth Section, from p. 47 to 52, gives an account of
the anchorages between Port Famine and Cape Froward; of
which the only convenient one for a ship is St. Nicholas Bay
(p. 50), and to which, if defeated in passing round the Cape, a
ship had better return ; for it is easy to reach as well as to leave,
and extremely convenient to stop at, to await an opportunity of
proceeding.

From Cape Froward to the westward, unless favoured by a fair
wind, it is necessary to persevere and take advantage of every
opportunity of advancing step by step. There are several anchor-
ages that a ship may take up, such as Snug Bay, off Woods Bay,
near Cape Coventry, in Fortescue Bay, Elizabeth Bay, and York
Roads. These are described between pages 55 and 58. To the

FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC. ]45

westward, in Crooked Reach, the anchorages are not so good, Also in
and excepting Borja Bay (p. 64), none seem to offer much con- r™^
venience. Borja Bay, however, is well calculated to supply the Bo • B
deficiency, although for a square-rigged vessel there must be
some difficulty in reaching it.

Long Reach is both long and narrow, and ill supplied with Long Reach,
anchorages for a ship ; such as they are, Swallow Harbour, Playa
Parda, Marian's Cove, and Half Port Bay, seem to be the best
(p. 67, 70, and 72). In thick weather, although the channel is
very narrow, yet one side is scarcely visible from the other, and
the only advantage it has over other parts of the strait is the
smoothness of the water. In Sea Reach there is a heavy rolling Heavy swell
swell, with a short and deep sea, which renders it very difficult
to beat to windward (p. 75).

Tamar Harbour (p. 78), Valentine Harbour (p. 81), Tuesday Anchorages
Cove (p. 82), and the Harbour of Mercy (p. 83), are the best in u-
anchorages ; and the latter is particularly convenient to occupy,
to await an opportunity of sailing out of the strait.

In the entrance, the sea runs very heavy and irregularly during Entrance.
and after a gale ; so that a ship should not leave her anchorage
in the Harbour of Mercy, without a fair or a leading wind to get
her quickly through it.

For small vessels, particularly if they be fore-and-aft rigged, n0 difficulty
many, if not all of the local difficulties vanish ; and inlets which a for sma11

J ill- vessels.

ship dare not or can not approach, may be entered with safety,
and anchorage easily obtained by them. A large ship will
perhaps be better off in entering and leaving the strait where
there is open space and frequently a heavy sea ; but for the navi-
gation of the strait, a small vessel has considerably the advantage.
She has also the opportunity of passing through the Cockburn Can ass
Channel should the wind be north-westerly, which will very much tnro»gh th«

■ -n *i> Cockburn

reduce the length of the passage into the Pacific. Channel.

One very great advantage to be derived from the passage through Advantage of
the Strait is, the opportunity of obtaining as much wood and wo°di.ns and
water as can be required, without the least difficulty ; another and refresh-
great advantage is, that by hauling the seine during the summer
months, from January to May, at the mouth of the river or along
the beaches in Port Famine, at the first quarter flood, a plentiful

146

PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT.

Fish.

Advantage to
ships passing
through the
strait from
West lo East.

Ships going
round the
Horn must go
to leewurd of
the Falkland
Islands.

Directions.

Description
of Cape Vic-
tory and the
Evangelists.

supply of fish may be obtained. Excellent fish are also caught
at the anchorage with the hook and line, at all seasons, early in
the morning or late in the evening. Fish may also be obtained
with the seine at any other place where there are rivers. Fresh-
water Bay and Port Gallant are equally productive. On the
outer coast of Tierra del Fuego an excellent fish may be caught
in the kelp.

Directions for passing through the Strjit of Magalhaens,
from the Pacific to the Atlantic.

The advantage which a ship will derive from passing through
the strait, from the Pacific to the Atlantic, for there must be
some great one to induce the seaman to entangle his ship with
the land when fair winds and an open sea are before him, is very
great. After passing through the strait, the prevailing winds
being westerly, and more frequently from the northward than
from the southward of west, they are fair for his running up the
coast ; or if not, the ship is not liable to receive much injury from
the sea, which is comparatively smooth ; whereas, to a ship
passing round the Horn, if the wind be north-west she must go
to the eastward of the Falkland Islands, and be exposed to strong
gales and a heavy beam sea, and hug the wind to make her
northing*. To a small vessel the advantage is incalculable ; for,
besides filling her hold with wood and water, she is enabled to
escape the severe weather that so constantly reigns in the higher
latitudes of the South Atlantic Ocean.

Coming from the northward it will be advisable to keep an
offino; until the western entrance of the strait is well under the
lee, to avoid being thrown upon the coast to the northward of
Cape Victory, which is rugged and inhospitable, and, forming
as it were a breakwater to the deep rolling swell of the ocean, is
for some miles off fringed by a cross hollow sea almost amount-
ing to a rippling.

The land of Cape Victory is high and rugged, and much
broken ; and if the weather be not very thick, will be seen
long before the Evangelists, which are not visible above the
horizon from a ship's deck, for more than four or five leagues.*

* From the Adventure's deck, the eye being thirteen feet above the water, they
were seen on the horizon at the distance of fourteen miles.

FROM THE PACIFIC TO THE ATLANTIC. 147

Pass to the southward of them, and steer for Cape Pillar which Ca e Pill.tr

makes like a high island. In calm weather do not pass too near

to the cape, for the current sometimes sets out, and round the

Cape to the southward ; but with a strong* wind get under the

lee of it as soon as you please, and steer along the shore. In the

night it will be advisable to keep close to the land of the south

shore ; and if a patent log be used, which no ship should be

without, your distance will be correctly known. The course course on-

along shore, by compass, is E- % S. ; and if the weather be thick, £™es p™,"1^

by keeping sight of the south shore, there will be no difficulty

in proceeding with safety.

The Adventure entered the strait on the 1st of April, 1830, at sketch of the
sunset ; and after passing within half a mile of the islets off the pilssa?e
Harbour of Mercy, steered E. f S. magnetic, under close reefed throusl1-
topsails, braced by, the weather being so squally and thick that
the land was frequently concealed from us ; but, it being occa-
sionally seen, the water being quite smooth, and the course
steadily steered, with the patent log to mark the distance run,
we proceeded without the least anxiety ; although the night was
dark and the squalls of wind and rain frequent and violent.
When abreast of Cape Tamar, that projection was clearly dis-
tinguished, as was also the land of Cape Providence, which
served to check the distance shewn by the the patent log, but
both giving the same results proved that we had not been sub-
jected to any current ; whereas the account by the ship's log was
very much in error, in consequence of the violence of the squalls
and the long intervals of light winds, which rendered it impossible
to keep a correct account of the distance. At daybreak we were
between Cape Monday and the Gulf of Xaultegua; and at
8 o'clock we were abreast of Playa Parda, in which, after a calm
day, the ship was anchored.

In the summer season there is no occasion to anchor any where, Not necessary
unless the weather be very tempestuous, for the nights are short ^summer!
and hardly dark enough to require it, unless as a precautionary
measure, or for the purpose of procuring wood and water;
the best place for which is Port Famine, where the beaches
are strewed with abundance of logs of well seasoned wood,

148

PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT.

Currenls in
the strait.

Direction for
the navigation
of the south
side of Eliza-
beth Island.

Second
Narrow,

Anchorage in
Gregory Bay.

which is very superior to the green wood that mtist otherwise be
used.

Notwitlistanding the Adventure experienced no current in the
western part of the strait, there is generally a set to the eastward,
which is more or less felt according- to circumstances. The
direction and strength of the currents are caused by the duration
of the gales.

The chart will be a sufficient guide for vessels bound through
from the westward as far as Laredo Bay; after which a few
directions will be necessary. The land here should be kept
close onboard, to avoid the Reef off the south-west end of Santa
Magdalen a. Being abreast of it, bear away, keeping the N. E.
extremity of Elizabeth Island on the starboard bow, until vou see
Santa Martha in one with, or a little to the southward of, the
south trend of the Second Narrow (Cape St. Vincent,) which is
leading mark for the fair channel until you pass the spit of shoal
soundings, which extends across to Santa Magdalena. There are
also shoal soundings towards the south-west end of Elizabeth
Island ; at half a mile off we had 5 fathoms, — Cape St. Vincent
being then the breadth of Santa Martha open to the northward of
that island. Keeping the Cape just in sight to the northward of
Santa Martha, steer on and pass round the low N. E. extremity
of Elizabeth Island, off which are several tide eddies. The tide
here sets across the channel. (See remarks upon the tide at
p. 27.)

Now steer for the Second Narrow, keeping Cape Gregory,
which will be just discernible as the low projecting extreme of
the north side of the Second Narrow, on the starboard bow, until
you are three miles past Santa Martha ; the course may then be
directed for the Cape, opening it gradually on the larboard bow
as you approach it, to avoid the shoal that extends off it.

If you anchor in Gregory Bay, which is advisable, in order to
have the whole of the tide for running through the First Narrow,
haul up and keep at a mile and a half from the shore. When
the north extremity of the sandy land of the Cape is in a line with
the west extreme of the high table land, you will be near the
anchorage ; then shorten sail, and when the green slope begins to

FROM THE ATLANTIC TO THE PACIFIC. 140

open, you will have 14 fathoms : you may then anchor or keep
away to the N. E., and choose a convenient depth, taking- care not
to approach the shore, so as to bring Cape Gregory to the south-
ward of S. by W. J W. (by compass). The best berth is with
the Cape bearing S. S. W, (See p. 23).

Hence, to the First Narrow the course by compass is dueN.E. Course to First

^J uv rQ BV

by E.* The land at the entrance, being low, will not at first be
perceived, but on steering on you will first see some hummocky
land, making: like islands. These are hills on the eastern or Fue- Description of

a . the Land on

gian side of the Narrow. Soon afterwards a flat, low sand-hill the s. vv. end
will be seen to the northward, and this is at the S. W, extremity Nttrrow.
of Point Barranca, (see p. 23). On approaching the narrow
at four miles off, keep a cliffy head, four or five miles within the
east side of the narrow, open of the trend of Point Barranca, by
which you will avoid the shoal that extends off the latter point
(p. 22). You should not go into less depth than 6 fathoms. At
most times of the tide there are long lines and patches of strong
ripplings through which you must pass. The shoal is easily dis-
tinguished by the kelp.

When the channel through the narrow bears by compass Course to steer
N. by E. § E., steer through it ; and that, or a N. N. E., course Narrow"
will carry you through. On each side, the bank extends off for
some distance ; but by keeping in mid-channel, there is no danger
until the cliffy coast be passed, when reefs extend off either shore
for some distance, particularly off Cape Orange. The N. N. E.
course must be kept until the peak of Cape Orange bears South,
and the northern Direction Hill (p. 20 and 22) W. S. W., or W.
by S. \ S. by compass. Then steer E. N. E. for Cape Possession,
taking care not to approach too near to the bank off Cape Orange,
or the one on the north side of Possession Bay, for which the chart
must be consulted.

For a small vessel, the passage throug-h the strait from west to Tne route not

i i i . . i only advisable»

east is not only easy, but to be strongly recommended as the best but proper for
and safest route. Indeed, I think the passage would be quite as

* If from the Second Narrow, N. E. \ E. will be the compass course ; but I should
recommend a ship hauling up to the northward until abreast of Cape Gregory, and
then to steer as above.

]50 PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT

expeditious, and, perhaps, much safer to enter the Gulf of Trinidad,
and pass down the Concepcion Strait, the Sarmiento or St. Estevan
Channels, and Smyth's Channel, and enter the strait at Cape
Tnmar. In these channels northerly winds prevail, and there is
no want of convenient and well-sheltered anchorages for the night,
many of which have already been mentioned, and multitudes of
others, and perhaps much better ones, might be found.

151

ADDENDA.

[While the preceding sheets were going through the press, the
author had an opportunity of obtaining some additional matter
from a MS. Journal, kept by the late Lieutenant Simpson,* who
was a Midshipman with Commodore Byron in the Dolphin;
and of extracting from his own manuscript some notes that will
be found useful.]

Shoals off Cape Blanco. Mr. Simpson's Journal says, Shoals off

111 m f i ' Clll)e Blanco.

" Found various soundings, the shoalest water 7 fathoms on a
bank. Then Cape Blanco bore S. W. by W \ W. 2 leagues,
and the southmost land in sight South. This shoal shows itself
bv a great rippling ; we had 12 fathoms without it, close to the
rippling, and were soon over it and steered directly in for the
land. The water soon after deepened very fast ; at one league
from the shore we had 42 fathoms."

The shoals, therefore, that the Adventure passed, (p. 3.) are
the same as the above. Hawkesworth (i. 13.) has doubtless
made an erroneous extract from the Commodore's Journal, in
describing them to be four, instead of two, leagues off the shore.

Cape Blanco. At page 4. is noticed a supposed error of the J^* "J1, °f
chart. The Spanish chart, from which I have laid down the
cape, places it in latitude 47° 15'. Mr. Simpson's Journal de-
scribes it to be in latitude 47° ltf, which is only 2 miles short of
what our observations made it.

Port Desire. I have recommended the river to be entered
at youno- flood, (p. 5.), but Mr. Simpson thinks the last quarter

* Mr. Simpson died a few years back at the Royal Hospital of Plymouth, of which
establishment he was one of the Lieutenants for many years. The Manuscript above
referred to is now the property of Captain J. F. Newell, R. N. who obligingly com-
municated it to me during the printing off of my last sheet.

152

ADDENDA.

Fresh Water
at Port Desire,

Eddystone
Rock, or the
Bellaco.

Tide at Sanln
Cruz.

At Port St.
Julian.

and at Port
Desire.

Shoal oil* Cape
Virgins.

Reef off Cape
Orange.

flood to be the best time. If the latter be adopted, T would
advise that the ship should be anchored off the entrance durinjr
the low water, in order to see the banks and rocks uncovered ;
since they will not be visible after half tide.

The Journal also mentions that the Commodore found a small
run of good fresh water at about 2 miles S, W. of the Tower
Rock. They filled five or six tons of it. A pole was erected
near it, to point the spot out to future visitors.

Eddystone. Byron saw this rock, but from his position of
it, there seems to be little doubt that it is the Bellaco rock of
Nodales. Mr. Simpson's journal says, " it is 5 leagues from the
shore, and is covered at hig-h water. It bears from Pen m i in
Island S. S. W., a little westerly, distance 14 or 15 leagues ; and
it is in latitude 48' 36'. (The latitude of the Bellaco is
48° 30' 50", see p. 9.)

Santa Cruz. At p. 17, eleven o'clock is given for the time
of high water at full and change ; but from a further consideration
of Captain Stokes' journal, and of the tide tables kept on board
the Beagle, it should rather be 10h 15', it rises 33 feet.

Port St. Julian. High water at Port St. Julian takes place
at full and change, at 10h 34', and the tide rises 38 feet.

Simpson's Journal notes the time of high water at Port Desire,
at full and change, to be one o'clock, the tide fo rise 21 feet,
and the stream to run at 7 or 8 miles an hour.

The shoal soundings of 5 fathoms off Cape Virgins (p. 19),
bear from the Cape, S. 35° E.

There is anchorage under Dungeness, with westerly winds.
Wallis anchored in 10 fathoms gravel ; Cape Virgins bearing
N. by W. \ W.,and Dungeness S. by W., (Hawkesworth, i. 372);
but these bearings, when laid down in the chart, do not appear
to be correct. The Dolphin anchored at 4 miles off the Cape,
bearing N. k E„ and at 2 or 3 miles from the extremitv of the
Ness, bearing S. S. W. | W.

Reef off Cape Orange. This reef extends off to the E.N. E.
for a considerable distance. Byron struck upon it (Hawkesworth
i, 42), as did also the Santa Casilda (Ult° Viage, Appen-
dice). The Adeona, a sealing vessel, in 1828, also struck
upon it and was left dry; and the Beagle, in going to her

ADDENDA. 153

assistance, crossed the tail of it at high water, occasionally strik-
ing the ground. Bougainville describes its position thus:
" When the hillocks which I have named Quatre fils Aymond,"
(Asses Ears) " only offer two to sight in form of a gate, you are
opposite the said rocks."
Shoals in Possession Bay and First Narrow. The follow- ShoaU in Pos-

session Bay

ing extract from Mr. Simpson's Journal may be useful. " Passed and First
over 6§ fathoms; the Asses Ears N. W. by W. \ W. 3 leagues,
and the north point of the First Narrow, W. by S. 5 or 6 miles."

" January 6. The ship grounded on a bank in 15 feet, and
lay about 10 minutes, and then drove off into 9 and 10 fathoms.
This shoal is in the mid channel to the First Narrow, and is off
a great length and is steep to. When on it the Asses Ears bore
N. W. \ W. 6 or 7 miles, Entrance of the Narrow S. W. 2
leagues, and Point Possession N. E. 3 leagues. At 6 we
anchored in 15 fathoms, the Asses Ears N. W. by W. 7 or 8
miles, the entrance of the Narrow S. W. by W. 2 or 3 leagues.
The shoal, N. N. W. \ mile. Anchored again in 6^ fathoms
about 3| leagues from the south side of the shoal ; the Asses
Ears, N. W. by W. 4 leagues, and the south point of the entrance
of the First Narrow W. S. W. Sent the boats out sounding
between the shoal and the south shore, and found a channel,
but at low water the shoal shews itself in some places by a great
rippling."

" Jan. 7. At 8 in the morning, weighed ; little wind at
W. S. W., steered S. E. by E., having Mr. John Simpson a-head
of the ship, sounding. Steering this course half a mile we
deepened the water to 13 fathoms, and then steered between East
and E. N. E. along the south side of the shoal, and at 6 or 7
miles from the shore ; the soundings being very regular, between
i) and 15 fathoms: but in haulinc nearer we soon shoaled the
water to 7 fathoms. The shoal is more than 2 leagues in length
from east to west, and nearly 2 leagues in breadth between the
shoal and the south shore. The boats had soundings on a bank
in 6£ fathoms at low water, and deep water within it. At noon
we hauled over for the north shore, being* to the eastward of
the bank, and soon deepened the water to 20 fathoms. Then
Point Possession bore N. N. W. 4 or 5 leagues, and the Asses

154

ADDENDA.

PointAnegada.

Point
Barranca.

Shoal to the
S.W. of Santa
Magdalena.

CapeFrowarJ.

Snug Bay.

ElizabethBay.

P.atehelor's
River.

Carlos III.
Island.

Ears, W. N. W., 6 or 7 leagues. Cape Virgin Mary, N. E. J E.
7 leagues."

Point Anegada. Sarmiento's Point Anegada is certainly
the Shoals off Cape Orange, for he says, " From Point Baxa,
the coast of the south shore extends E. | N. E. (Leste quarta al
Nord-este)# 5£ leagues towards a very low point, which I called
Point Anegada (drowned land), Sarmiento, p. 273. In print-
ing page 22, I have considered the above point to be the Shoals
off Point Delgada, which is manifestly erroneous.

Point Barranca bears from Cape Gregory, N. 48° £ E. and
is 19§ miles distant.

Shoal off Santa Magdalena. Simpson's Journal says
there are 3 fathoms on it in many places ; the least water found
by us was 5 fathoms. See p. 27.

Cape Froward. Byron found the depth of water at less than
a cable's length from the point 40 fathoms. Midway between
St. Nicholas Bay and Port San Antonio, we had no bottom with
256 fathoms.

Snug Bay. At Byron's anchorage in Snug Bay, " Cape
Froward bore E. \ S., 5 miles ; the islet in the Bay, W. by S.
\ mile; the river's mouth, N, W. by W. \ mile. Shoaled sud-
denly from 17 to 9 fathoms, but had no ground until near the
Island." (Simpson's Journal.)

Elizabeth Bay. Mr. Simpson describes the Dolphin's
anchorage here in 10 fathoms. Rupert's Island bore S. by E., 2
or 3 "miles ; Passage Point S. E. by S. \ mile; the west part of
the bay W. by N., 2 miles, and a reef of rocks about a cable's
length from the shore N. W. by W., ± mile. The reef is quite
covered at high water. Here the flood set to the eastward, and
flowed at full and change until 12 o'clock.

Batchelor's River. " At % of a mile to the eastward of
Batchelor's River is a Shoal which has not more than 6 feet upon
it at low water, and 14 feet at high water ; it is about \ a mile
from the shore, and shews itself by the weeds upon it." (Simp-
son's Journal.)

Carlos III. Island is the Island of Louis le Grand of
Beauchesne, Anno 1699. In it are Dauphin Bay and Point Phili-
peaux. (Burney, iv. 376.)

* This bearing is erroneous ; the bearing of the two points is nearly N. E.

ADDENDA. 155

The Dolphin anchored on a knowl in 15 fathoms, 2 or 3 miles Rocky Ledge
S. S. W. from the west entrance of the Jerome Channel and Cape chanueL™1"6
Quod bearing W. S. W., 3 leagues ; but after veering § of a
cable the ship was in 45 fathoms. (Simpson's Journal.)

She also anchored at 5 or 6 miles from Cape Quod bearing
W. S. W. and the south point of Despair Island (the largest of
the Ortiz Isles off Borja Bay) just on with the pitch of the Cape,
at I mile from the shore ; the depth was 45 fathoms, and inside
there was 75 fathoms. Here they found the tide to run eight
hours to the eastward and four to the westward, at from \\ to 2
knots. (Simpson's Journal.)

At not a league to the eastward of Cape Quod is a rock R0Ck to the
which has not more than 9 feet upon it ; but shews itself by the Q^0tdof Ciipe
weeds growing upon it: it is a good distance from the north
shore, and is in the fair way working to the westward round the
Cape.

Cape Upright. Mr. Simpson notices a reef about 3 leagues Reef to the
to the west of Cape Upright, and at some distance from the Uper^gl°tt ape
shore : we did not observe it.

Diego Ramirez Islands were discovered by the Nodales in
the year 1619, and named by them after their head pilot.

TABLES

LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE;

VARIATION OF THE

COMPASS AND TIDE.

TABLES

LATITUDE AND LONGITUDE, VARIATION OF THE COMPASS,

AND TIDE.

COASTS OF BRAZIL, RIVER PLATA, AND EASTERN PATAGONIA.

The Latitudes to which the character 0 is prefixed, hace result cd from Astronomical Observation.
The Longitudes which have been determined by Chronometers. arc designated by C; and thoseby
Lunar Distances by © £ . Those without distinguishing marks are the result ofTriangulat'wn.

The Longitudes in the following Tables depend upon that of ViUegagnon Island at Rio de Janeiro,
which was found by 14 Chronometers from Fly month 'to be 43t> 05' 03" West of Greenwich.

•a

Name of

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.
East.

Tide.

Place.

Particular Spot.

a, vV .

at
F. & C.

Direction
of Flood, &
Rise »f Tide

023°
024

55'
03

51"
06

c.
c.

46°
46

16'

33"

4° 22'

H. 31.

»»

Moela Lighthouse

T Brazil.

Alcatrasse Island
Abrigo Island...
Figuera Island
Paranagua

0-24
025
©25
©25

08
07
21
30

10
28
29
14

c.
c.
c.

47
47
48

39
52
54
17

15
51
11
10

5 4 1

West Point of Cotinga

025

5 34

2 -J

Church of Sta.Antonina

Sf. Catherine ...

Sta.Cruzd'Anhatomirim

6 30

City, President's House

Cape St. Mary...
Gorriti Island ...

■to

WellatN.E. end

C 54

0D54

53
53

38
40

13 48

Monte Video ...

Rat Island, Flagstaff...

11 23

— *
3

034

12 07

*-*

Light House on Mount

Buenos Ayres ...

Port St. Elena...

Observ\markedon Plan

19 10

4 0

17 feet

Cape Two Bays

Hill at projecting Point

Penguin Island

ST.'

45
51

05
45

65
C5

51
41

45
30

19 42

12 10

18J fe;t

Mount at North end ...

4-3

Sea Bear Bay ...

Sandy Beach at S. side..

20 47

12 45

North
20 feet

Watchman'sCape

Rock

TABLE I. (continued.)

Name of

Place.

Particular Spot.

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.

East.

Tide.

H. W.

at
F & C.

Direction
of Flood, &
Rise of Tide

Bellaco Rock ...
Port St. Julian..'

C. Franc, de Paulo

Santa Cruz ... !

o
O

BrokenClifTPeak

Lion Mount

Observation Mt.

Coy Inlet j

CapeSanches ...

Tiger Mount ...

C.Fairweather...

Gallegos River..

North Hill

Friars

?»
Convents

Rock ,

Shag Island, in Harbour,

Wood's Mount

Cape Curioso ,

Extremity

Observatory opposite \
Sea Lion Island i

Mount Entrance

Station up the River

Brink ..

Summit

Height on South side (
of Entrance f

Station up the Inlet ...

Extremity

Summit ,

South extreme

Observatory Mound

Smallest & Northernm.
Largest&Sou thernmost

Northern

Southern

4ft

4!)

050

51
51

51
51
51
51
51

30' 50'

16 00

14 00

11 10

41 18

00 43

08 39

C. 66° 09'

C. 67 38

07 43

67 34

63 25

C. 68 22

68 19

68 52

69 08
68 31

68 49

69 00

69 06

C. C9 05

69 24

69 03

69 01

C. 69 03

25"
02 \i
34

00 !S
42

00 I

15 i

50
17

50
28

68 55 15

68 57
C. C8 56

69 24
69 10
69 09
69 18
69 17

50
42

21 47

H. M.

nrth*ard,
iise8 38 feet

10 30 te™d

/River's
Mouth

i irk!

10 15 33 feet

12 15 Northw

9 30

9 0
8 50

N. W.
28 feet

46 feet

111

TABLE II.

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS,

INCLUDING

THE COCKBURN AND BARBARA CHANNELS, AND THE OTWAV AND SKYRING WATERS.

Name of

Place.

Particular Spot.

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.

East.

Tid«.

H. W. Direction
at of Flood, U
F. & C IRise ofTide

Cape Virgins ..,

Dungeness ....
Mount Dinero
Cape Possession
Mount Aymond

Cape

Orange -J

S. E. extreme.

Extremity

Summit

Centre of CUff..
Summit

52
52
52
52

22 40

18 25

1G 35

06 35

C.Espiritu Santo
Cape Gregory

Elizabeth Island
Oazy Harbour...

Peckett's Har. <

Cape Negro

Sandy Point

Point St. Mary..

Rocky Point

Port Famine ..,

Cape Monmouth

Point Boqueron

CapeSt.Valentyn

Nose Peak

Port Cooke ....

Latitude Point..

Bottom of Ad--
miralty Sound.

Peak on the S. side "J
of the entrance of ►
the first Narrow ... )

Summit 5 miles inland

Extremity

Bush on summit of land

North-east bluff

Entrance

52 28 10

Beach opposite the
anchorage outside

South-east extreme .

Extremity

Observatory

Point Santa Anna
Extremity

•>■>
Summit at extreme

Summit

Rivulet in the Bay...
Extremity

Summit of Mount Hope

052

052
53

053

53
53
53
53
53
54
054

£4

42 30

38 18

38 03

49 18

42 20

46 45

56 44

09 00

21 40

35 18

38 12

68°
C. 68

68
68
69

C;70

C. 70

C70

1 — f

70
70
70
70
70
69
69

16' 45"

17 46

21 50

30 00

53 35

30 30

26 05

40 51

09 50

09 51

33 25

31 06

40 31

45 30

49 31

54 01

53 26

51 58

54 01

51 19

24 01

12 01

30 01

01 36

58 01

50 51

22° 30

H. M.

Northw.

23 34

23 49

23 26

23 30

68 59 11

36 feet

12 0

South.
5or 6 feet

TABLE II. ("continued.)

c
as

Name of

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.

East.

Tide.

Place.

Particular Spot.

H. VV. 1 Direction
at lor Flood, &

P. & C. Rise of Tide

Curious Peak ...
Mount Seymour

54°

111

So-
ns

70°

08'
4f>

31"
36

H. SI.

AinsworthHarb.

Project. pointonW.side

•A

Parry Harbour...

Outer point on W. side

■A

Willes Eay

Point

51
©53

CO
15

12
31

01
46

Islet in Ph.Gidley Cove

-fc3

Cannon Point ...
Soapsuds Cove...

Cape Expecta- 1

Extremity

054
054

03
lfi

70
70

25
13

31
4fi

54
54

0G
19

50
CO

7J
70

23
15

01
21

South Extremity, or ~\
trend at entrance, V
of Gabriel Channel)

Gabriel
Chinnel.

Port Waterfall...
Nar.ofGabrielC.

Mount Graves..

Port

54.
54
54
53

20
15
06
45

20
OS
35
00

69
C9

70
70

19
32
48
33

01
31
01

T3
C3
P-H

St. Peter's & »
St.Paul's Islet f

PortSanAntonio

Humming Bird Cove ^

053
53

52 1
25 j

Mount Tarn ...

S.W.pt. of North Island

53
53

54
45

03
C6

51
58

51
26

S3 £

Cape San Isidro

23° 30'

1 0

1 8 feet
South wd. j

g .

C. Remarquable

Extremity

4«t

§2

o c

Nassau Island...
St.Nicholas Bay

South-east point

53
53

50
59

23
38

71
71

00
03

56
13

2 G

Cape Froward ...

Summit of theMorro...

1 0

N. E.

r* rrt

2 c

53 cj

Cape Holland ...

S. point of Wood's Eay

— o

S G

o o

Bougainville's )
Sugar Loaf... J

Cascade Harb....

Small rock in Harbour

053

46 24 18

°^1
— ©
o a

Outer point West side...

_3 o

BeU Bay

N.W. pt. Bradley Cove
Islet offit

053
53

lfi

Cape Ingleiield..
Cape Gallant ...

8 c

",5

053
053

Iff

•>a as

Wigwam Point

C.71

57 24 04

9 3

5 orS feet

TABLE II. (continued.)

*•>

m
a

Name of

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.
East.

Tide.

Place.

Particular Spot.

H. W.

at
F. & C.

Direction
of Flood, &

Riseor Tide

5 |—i

Charles Island...
Rupert Island...

Wallis's Mark

53°
53

43'
42

57"
00

72°
72

02'
08

00*

H. M.

u 8

a a

Monmouth lsWs.

Summit of largest island

Point Elizabeth

Passage Point Reef ...

053

5§

Batchelor River.
JeromeChannel ■!

53
53

33
31

C. 72
72

17
15

11 2i°nfi'

1 46

Bluff extremity, or (
W. point of entrance |

41
41

T3 •

- —

O C3

Cape Cross-tide.

El Morrion, or J
St.David'sHeadJ

53
53

33
33

72
72

16
31

At Bo
1 50

rja Bay.

6 feet.

Cape Quod ......

Snowy Sound ...

Centre of Ulloa Island

43
u

PlayaParda Cove
Half-port Bay...
Cape Monday ...
St. Anne's Island

■8

1 8

fcc
§

C. 73

Cape Upright ...

Extremity, North trend

Cape Providence

00 23 22

Observatory,TamarBay

C. 73

23 24

3 5

5 feet

»)

Eastwa.

Beaufort Bay ...

Stragglers,Southernmost

Cape Phillip ...

C. 73

43
u

Summit over the Cape

C. 74

Station on its East side

Valentine Harb.

2 ©

CapeCuevas ....
Cape Conado ...
Westminst. Hall

23 40

Observation Mt.

C. 74

25 09

3 0

Harbourof Mercy

052

C.74

23 48

jl 47

/ cr

\0 58

4 feet

TABLE II. (continued.)

Name of

Place.

Particular Spot.

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.

East.

Tide.

H. W.

at
F. & C

Direction

of Flood,*:
liise of Tide

fee

1>
n

o
O

3
O

.a
cs

Cape Pillar

Cape Victory ...

Evangelists, or ^
Islesof Direction |

Vernal

Anxious Point...
Mount Boqueron
Labyrinthlslands
Cape Turn ...
Warping Cove
MountSarmiento

King Island

Prowse Islands
Park Bay

Bayne'slslands }

Eliza Bay

Kirke Rocks ,

Enderby Island
Mount Skyring
Tom's Harbour

North Cove ,

Fury Harbour..

West Furies ,

East Furies ,

Cape Schomberg
Cape Kempe ...
Copper Kettle...
Bynoe Island ...
Mortimer Island
Hewett Bay...
Brown Bay ...
Bell Mount ...

Extremity

Sugar Loaf to South )
Eastward J

Pinnacle on summit ...

Extremity

Centre pinnacle

Summit of Jane Island

Extremity

N. E. peak (CSOO feet)

Summit

Station

Beach on isthmus

Cove at the N. end of\
South-east island ... i

Centre

Body

Centre

Summit (3000 feet)

Cove near it

Entrance

West point

Body

Summit over extremity

Peaks over

Summit

Centre

Summit

South point

Anchorage

Summit

42'

53"

052

C. 74°
74

C. 74

70
70
70
70
71
C. 71
70
71
71
71

71
71
71

C. 72

C. 72
72

72
72
72

72
72

37' 41"
39 31

50 55

02 56

57 40

53 26

56 00

67 36

04 00

05 25

24° 57'

47 30

13 15

20 57

15 00

24 66

35 50

37 00

42 30

53 31

07 40

02 07
02 31

25 19

14 51
14 30

15 00

17 00

08 00

02 46

26 46

21 41

09 00

16 00

16 51

24 0

16 00

11 51

H. M.
1 0

Variable

Westwa.
6 or 8 feet

0 S0fior7feet

0 30

6 or 7feet
Southwd.

TABLE II. (continued.)

Name of

Place.

Particular Spot.

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.
East.

Tide.

— ■

is
eg

O <U

to ^
S «

North An chorage
Bedford Bay ....

Field Bay

Cayetano Peak
Shag Narrows...
Dighton Bay ...
Foint Elvira ...
Cape Edgeworth
Batchelor Peak
Three IslandBay

Real Cove

Cutter Cove

False Corona ...

Bennet Island...

Fanny Bay

Point Martin ...

Inglefield Island

Shell-note Point

Point Hall

Donkin Cove —

Wigwam Cove

Euston opening
Dynevor Castle

H. W. Direction

at I of Flood, i

F. & C.K'seofTide

Entrance

Point Cairncross.

Summit

North end

Latitude Beach .

Extremity

Northernmost ....

Centre

Smallest islet ....

Gidley islet at S.en trance

054° 09' 25'

54 00 15

53 51 06

53 53 04

53 51 24

053 48 40

53 49 12

53 47 03

53 29 30

53 28 30

53 24 30

53 21 45

053 21 49

53 II 00

053 07 00

North point 053 04 20

Extremity 052 51 34

Extremity 52 49 45

Spot marked on Plan... 052 45 30

Do.

Centre ..
Summit

052 39 30

52 52 40
52 34 39

C. 72Q 11' 21"

72 18 31

72 16 31

72 06 00

72 10 31

72 09 36

72 00 11

72 05 16

72 15 46

72 20 20

72 23 55

72 23 20

C. 72 28 55

72 26 00

72 16 46

72 08 30

C. 72 00 51

71 58 00

34° 12
24, 0

23 58

C. 71 52 27 23 5fi
71 49 30

71 29 50
71 22 10

C. 71 21 36

71 19 55

23 40

0 30

0 0'

7 of 8 feet
Southw^.

4 0

f Sets to

C. 71 25 20 23 34/ E

71 24 10

72 18 00
72 28 40

until
( 1 30

N. W.

* The Tide commences to set to the Southward at Noon, at Full and Change,— See p. 45,

Vlll

TABLE III.

THE WESTERN C04ST, AND INTERIOR SOUNDS,

FBOM

THE STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS TO THE NORTH EXTREMITY OF THE GULF OF PENAS.

Ji—

Name of

Place,

Particular Spot.

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.
East.

Tide.

H. W. Direction

at of Flood, Ic

F. & C Rise of Tide

a
a

I— I •

►3

Fairway Isles .
Deep Harbour.
Good's Bay ....

Oake Bay

Otter Bay.......

Summer Isles .
Fortune Bay....

Point Palmer .
Isthmus Bay .

Welcome Bay...

Point St. Julian
Island Bay ... j

Hamper Bay ...

Rocky Cove

Cape Cheer ,

Narrow Creek..,
Mount Trafalgar
Point West...
Cape Kendall ...
Relief Harbour

Escape Bay ,

Mount Trigo ...
Cape Donaldson
Rejoice Harbour

Anchor Bay

Latitude Cove...

South point of entrance

North point ,

Larch Island ..,

Anchorage

Summit of larger island

Rivulet...,

Extremity

Centre

Entrance of Cove

Extremity

Island at South side )
ofport ' f

Anchorage ..
N. W. point
Summit

Summit

Extremity

Rock on West side.

Guia Narrows

Anchorage

Summit

Extremity

North point of entrance
North point of entrance

North extremity in "
mid channel

52° 43' 25"

052 41 10

052 34 16

52 23 50

52 20 25

52 15 48

52 13 38

52 10 30

52 09 15

62
61

051
51

051
51
51
51

05O

00 50

59 05

54 08
50 04
41 35

47 22

48 10
31 45
27 15
26 27
22 00
15 04
06 10
02 12

55 00
50 54

50 43 00

73° 44'

73 44

73 42

73 43

73 40

73 39

73 41

73 38

73 36

25"

23° 04'
23 20

23 40

73 43 03

23 40

73 45

73 49

73 53

74 05
74 15
74 09
74 21
74 04
74 06
74 07
74 12
74 12
74 16
74 16
74 16
74 16

74 23

40
00

20
00
30
00
57
20
00
00
00
40
00
40
00

24 09

24 40

H, M.

0 30

0 50

6 or 7 feet!

7 or 8 feet

l7or8feet
,- J | (Flood
0 50< 'sets to the
I North-
ward.)

Nbrthwd,

2 8 Southw<i.

TABLE III. c continued J

cs
o
O

Name of

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.
East.

Tide.

Place.

Particular Spot.

H. vv.

at
F. & C.

Dirf clion
of Flood,&
Rise of Tide

Bonduca Island
Puerto Bueno ...

N. pt. of Schooner Cove

50 <
050

55'
58

00"

74°
74

09'

40"
10

21°00'

H. M.

1 40

Flood sets
to the
South.

Blanche Passage
Port San Mateo
Cape St. Vincent

51
51
51

13
23

40
50
00

73
74
73

59
00
58

00
35
35

Point Balthazar

Cape San Bar-^
tholomew ... j

■

StainesPeninsula

Cape Flamstead

Rock off the Extremity

Shingle Road ...

Point Maskelyne
Brinkley Island
Penas de Altura

c
5 .2
1 "^

052

06
04
06

05
10
03

73
73
73

27
23

55
20
58

Cape Ano Nuevo

Mount Burney...

Ancon Sin Sa- \
lida ^

49.

Summit of large island "J
opposite to Cape V

Cape Earnest ...
Leeward Bay ...

f®

Islets within anchorage

Whale Boat Bay
Cape Retford ...
Point Return ...

052
52

ii ■>•>

052

Virginia Island

052
051

Beach

C. 72

Canal of the\
Mountains ... J

Last Hope Inlet

55 55

- i

S. E. bight, or the)
nearest part to Sky- -

Point San Juan

TABLE III. (continued.)

Name of

Place.

Particular Spot.

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.
East.

Tide.

H. W I Direction

at 'or F"ond, &

F & CJKiseofTidc

tj-c

0-3

-J >>

Guard Bay

Innocent Island

Tapering Point

Point Hociode")
Cayman j

Walker Bay ...

Molyneux $
Sound )

Portland Bay j

Expectation Bay

Tom's Bay ...

Open Bay

Pt. BrazoAncho

Red Bill Island

Windward Bay

Double Peak Mt

Cathedral Mount

Neesham Bay ...

Easter Peak

Port Henry

Seal Rocks

Anchorage

Summit at North end.
Extremity

Beach

Rock to N. of Point )
Michael j

Centre of islandfront- }
ing the anchorage 5

Anchorage

Beach near anchorage ..
Summit of island off...

Extremity

Summit

Eeach

Eastern peak

Summit

Beach

Summit

Observatory

Body

Cape Three
Points

Pillar Rock at the(
extremity J

Cape Primero...
Mount Corso ...
Small- craftBight

Sandy Bay

Saumarez Island

Fury Cove

Falcon Inlet......

Bottom of the Sd.
Rocky Bight ...

Level Bay

English Narrows

Extremity
Summit ..

East point

Bold head

Head

CapeWellesley.extrem,

50° 31'
50 31
50 28
50 24
50 21

I
10"| c.

DO j

55
30
15

050 16 48

50 14

50 25

50 11

50 07

50 08

050 05

50 03

49 57

49 46
0 49 53

50 00
©50 00

49 54

13 C,

48 !

50 02 03

"West point

Outer point, N. side...

South end

North end

49 50

49 45

50 01
50 45
49 32

049 31

49 28

48 53

49 25
49 07
49 06
4S 55

04
02
23
25
18
46
15
50

74° 32' 57"

74 43 00

74 33 30

74 48 35

74 48 (10

74 44 45

74 3C 48

74 13 15

71 41 30

74 31 00

7i 37 25

74 44 15

74 33 00

74 36 00

74 40 50

74 55 57

75 09 35
75 15 11
75 14 02

75 19 30

75 32 07

75 28 55

74 27 00

74 13 10

74 03 20

74 00 00

7-i 51 30

7.1 40 00

74 10 40

74 11 30

74 13 20

74 13 38

H. M,

W 50' Noon.

5 feet

20 58

12 45

1 15 W.S.W

TABLE III. (continued.)

Name of

Place.

Latitude South.

Particular Spot.

Longitude West.

Variat.
East.

Tide.

H. VV.

at
F. &C

Direct ionj
of Flood, St,
Riseoi Tide

c
o

5
"a

Halt Bay

Iceberg Sound

White KelpCove
Middle Island...'
Waterfall Bay...
Island Harbour
Millar Island ...

- \

Campana Island
Cape Roman ...
Ayautau Island
Wager Island..

•n

Speedwell Bay...

Rundle Pass ...

Islet — themost"!
Northern of V
the group ...)

Good Harbour...

Byron Islaud ...

Channel's c
Mouth I

Station Rock, on the
N. side of entrance

Bottom

Rock off the entrance.

North point

Bottom ,

West point

South extreme

Millar's Monument,}'
North extreme | j

Summit at South end...

Extremity j

Summit on the largest

Easternmost point

Supposed position of l_
the Wager's wreck /

North beach

South end.

043°
048
4,3

048
48
48
48
48
47
47
47
47
47
47

047

Summit 47

Isthmus at the bottom ' 47

Xavier Island

Jesuit Sound

Most western point ...

Body of rocks off the \
South entrance t :

Hazard Isles, centre?
and westernmost ...SI

East side of northern islet O 47

Bottom of east arm ... 47

Bottom of south arm... 47

Ignacio Bay (beach) ... 047

XavierBay(LindseyPt. 47

North point of en- ~|
trance, or head of V

53' 50"

39 23

47 CO

30 46

27 35
17 00
06 25
03 20
55 12
45 10

44 37

34 22
41 03

39 40

40 17

45 30

38 30

45 00

44 50

30 20

C9 30

28 50

35 12
43 10
10 28
05 00

False Harbour .1

Kelly Harbour.. .j North point of entrance
Cirujano Islet... North-east point

47 07 15

Sand Hills on East

San Tadeo River side 0f entrance

Purcell Island... Summit

046
46
4b'
46

58 54

51 15

47 40

55 30

74° 13' 10»

74 11 20

71 10 10

74 15 35

74 20 50

74 22 00

74 28 38

74 35 30

74 41 50

74 37 30

74 52 45

74 40 30

74 55 25

75 03 30

C. 75 08 34

75 10 20

75 05 45

75 14 25

75 20 50

75 24 32

74 33 20

74 24 50

C. 74 24 13

73 53 52

74 09 20
C. 74 25 49

74 16 40

74 12 30

C. 74 05 41

74 21 50

74 15 50

74 39 55

H. M.

12 30

S.S.E.

12 0

Northwd
N.byW.

19° 50'

(HeadofSt.

■ -iQurntin
45/ Gulf.)

( 6 feet

Xll

TABLE III. (continued.)

Name of

Place.

Particular Spot.

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.
Last.

Tide.

« £ CapeTresMontes

a-% 1 Dundee Rock

£ S Cape Dyer

*- Oh

o g Sisters

— ri

o° Parallel Peak ...
Cape Montague

Isthmus ,

Port Otway ...
Sugar Loaf ...
° Dome of St. Paul's

S Si Pt.MitfordRees

3 © _ _

3f!*S Cape Raper...

Bynoe Island -
Break Sea Island

a "« PortSantaBarbara

|g' April Peak ....
«S.g Cape Santiago.

Cape St. Lucia.
Cape Isabel....

Centre .......

Observatory.
Summit ....

n
Extremity

n n

Entrance of Fallos Ch.
Northernmost point ...

Observation Inlet

Summit

Extremity

Centre peak

Summit

46° 50' 20'

046 49 31

40 42 40

46 36 56

46 43 08

46 48 20

46 58 57

47 57 55

48 01 00
048 02 15

48 06 16

48 05 55

48 37 40

48 45 40

49 07 20

50 10 52

50 42 02

51 30 00
51 51 40

74°
C. 75
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
C. 75
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
75
75

41' 35"

19 00

20° 32'

15 00

13 20

40 55

39 35

27 30

23 45

29 15

29 12

19 10

42 00

34 35

28 10

29 35

33 40

17 35

24 00

25 00

G9 30

H.VV.

at
F.& C

H, M.

Direction
of Flood, &

RiseoI'Tidc

6 feet

45 3 to 4 feet
atNeaps

XIU

TABLE IV.

OUTER, OR SEA COAST, OF TIERRA DEL FUEGO.

In order to adapt the longitudes of the places mentioned in this Table to the meridians of Port Fa-
mine and St. Martin's Cove, at Cape Horn, the following corrections have been made to Captain Fitz
Roy's chronometrical results, viz : —

Townshend Harbour
Stewart Harbour
Doris Cove
March Harbour
Good Success Bay

By Captain Fitz Roy's observations St. Martin's Cove would be in long. 67* 31' 18", which is 2' 15"
to the Westward of the mean of upwards of thirty chronometrical results from Monte Video. The differ-
ence has therefore been equally divided between North Cove and St. Martin's Cove; the longitude of
the latter being taken at 67° 29' 03", and of Port Famine at 70° 54'.

have been placed

to the Eastward of Captain Fitz Roy's chro-
nometrical deductions.

c8 J

Name of

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.
East.

Tide.

u 1

Place.

Particular Spot.

H. W.

at
F. &C.

Direction
dI Flood, &
Rise ol Tide

U. M.

DislocationHarb.

Near the projecting point

052* 54/

13"

C. 74°

33'

93"

23°53'

1 40 |

Week Islands ...

53 11

24 0

2 0]

Latitude Bay ...

West point of entrance

053 18

C. 74

23 56

2 5

DppnwafprSnund

C. 73
C. 73

3i
15

45
20

1 0

54 28

24 40

2 30

54 30

25 00

54 37

Cape Gloucester
Fury Harbour ...

54 30

Island in the entrance

54 28

24 30

2 30

O
c8

Isabella Sound

054 13

054 24

54 24

00
26
44

C. 72

24 30

2 30

03 1 St Paul's...

54 39

TownshendHarb.

Islet on N. side of Harb.

054 42

C. 71

24 34

1 30

Cape Castlereagh

54 56

Stewart Harbour

E. side of Shelter Islanc

054 54

24 14

2 50

East Point entrance ...

054 58

24 16

3 0

Cape Alikhoolip

55 11

55 24

March Harbour

Entrance of the Basin...

21 4

3 10

Adventure Cove

RockyPt.N.end ofBeach

055 21

00 !24 10

3 10

XIV

TABLE IV. (continued.)

o
be

i— i
iu

Name of

Place.

Particular Spot.

Latitude South.

Udefonsos ' I

„ 055

Orange Bay M iddle of Bay

St.Martin'sCove Head of the Cove
Cape Horn Summit

055
055
©55

Evouts Island...' Centre

Diego Ramirez S.or Boat Island, summit

Northernmost Rock ...

Centre

Spaniards' Harb., Point Kinnaird

GoodSuccessBay S. side, near SandyBeach

Barneveltlslands

Cape San Diego

Extremity

55
56
56

055
54

35' 46'

35 54

30 50

51 19

58 41

17 04

33 00

26 35

22 25

48 54

57 05

4S 02

40 35

Longitude West.

Variat.
East.

Tide.

H W. j Direction
at of Flood, 4f
F.&. C.iRise of Tide

c.
c.

68° 5cV 00"

68 00 23

67 29 03

67 10 53
66 44 03
66 40 03

68 36 20
68 36 45
66 39 48
65 42 54
65 09 18
65 01 53

H. M.

?3° 50' 3 3D

(Mount Beaufoy)

23 40

24 0

22 42

4 40 8

4 15 9

TABLE V.

COAST OF CHILE.

Name of

Place.

Particular Spot.

Latitude South.

Longitude West.

Variat.
East.

Tide.

H, W. Direction

at of Flood, &•
F & C 'Rise of Tide

Talcahuano Fort Galvez 036 41 58

Valparaiso ("erro Alegre

JuanFernande^ ^JS^Ssfy £\

033 01 58
Q33 37 36

(J. 73° 50' 25"

C 73 03 05

C 71 34 12

C 78 46 04

H. M.

18° 33' 11 15

16 47
15 18

17 13

XVII

TABLE

OBSERVED OR ESTIMATED HEICxHTS OF MOUNTAINS

PARTICULAR PARTS OF THE SEA COAST.

Ang. denotes Ike height to have been ascertained by Angular Measurement ;
Bar. by Barometer ; and Est. by Estimation.

NORTH ATLANTIC OCEAN.

CAPE DE VERD ISLANDS.

Feet.
Peak ai the N. W. end of San Antonio 7086 Aug.

Pico Antonio, on St. Jago 4725 An"

Pico of Fuego 8815 Ang#

SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN.

COAST OF BRAZIL.

Corcovado, at Rio de Janeiro 2330 Bar. 5 Ob.i .

Sugar Loaf, do. 1275 Ang.

Cubatoa, at Santos (Telegraph House) , 2502 Bar. 5 Obs.

City of San Paulo (Base of the Cathedral) 2444 Bar.l60bs

EAST COAST OF PATAGONIA.

Cliffy Coast, near Port St. Julian 300 to 330 Est.

Mount Entrance (Santa Cruz) 356 Ang.

Cape Fairweather and the Cliffs to the Northward^ 300 Est.

Cape Virgins and the Cliffs to the Northward 300 Est

XV1I1

STRAIT OF MAGALHAENS.

Feet

Cape Possession 300 Est.

Table Mountain behind Cape Gregory 1500 to 2000 Est.

Point Santa Anna (Port Famine) 104 Ang.

Mount St. Philip do. 1308 Aug.

Mount Graves, North Summit (Dawson Island) 1315 An°-.

do. South do. do 1498 Ang.

Lomas Range, the highest part over Port San Antonio 2963 Ang.

Mount Tarn (Peak at the N. E. end) 5 2602 Bar.40bs.

( 2852 Ang.

Mount Buckland, Gabriel Channel 4000 Est.

Mount Boqueron, (entrance of Magdalen Sound) 3000 Est.

Mount Sarmiento, (bottom of do. ) 6800 Ang.

Pyramid Hill, ( do. do. ) 2500 Ang.

Cape Froward (Land behind the Mono) 2500 Est.

Cape Holland 1800 Est.

Mount Pond 2500 Est.

Mount Cross, Port Gallant , (2290 Bar.

(22b4 Ang.3 0bs.

Average height of the Land of Sea Reach 1000 to 2500 Est.

OUTER COAST OF TIERRA DEL FUEGO

Kater's Peak, on Hermite Island 1742 Bar. 4 Obs.

Bell Mount, near Strait le Maire 4000 Est.

Noir Island 600 Est.

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN.

WESTERN COAST OF PATAGONIA.

Mount Bumey 4800 Ang.

Cape Three Points 2000 Est.

Mountain within Kelly Sound 1540 An<*.

Sugar Loaf (Marine Islands, in Holloway Sound) . . r 1836 Ann-
Dome of St. Paul's ( do. do. ) 2284 Ang.

Highest peak of Juan Fernandez. (The Yungue, or Anvil) .... 3005 Ang.

BY AUTHORITY:

J. HAKTNELL, FLEET STREET.

INDEX.

Pa<jfe

Abra 71

Aquirre Bay 103

Adelaide, Queen, Archipelago 113,

128
Admiralty Sound . . . . 33, 36
Adventure's Passage through the

Strait 147

Adventure Passage 94

Cove 95

Agnes Islands 91

Ainsworth Harbour . . . . 37

Aldunate Inlet 123

Alikhoolip, Cape 95

Alquilqua 80

Anchor Bay 134

Anchorages, how to look for 108
Ancon Sin Salida . . . . 63, 131

Andrew's Bay 56

Anegada, Point 22

Angosto Puerto 75

Ano JSuevo, Cap<? .. .. 131, 132
Anxious Point . . . • 38, 39

Apostle Rocks 85

April Peak 114

Arce Bay ^

Asaurituan 119

Asses Ears 21

Augusta Island

Ayautau Islands H9

Aymond, Mount . • . . 20, 21

Bad Bay 324, 125

Barbara, Port Santa 117

Channel .. ..42,43,92

Barcelo Bay 66

Barnevelt Islands 102

Barometer, 110, 127 ; off Cape Horn,

140; at Port Famine . . ..143

Barranca, Point . . 22, 23, 149

Barrister Bay 87

Barrow Head . . 40

Batchelor River 58

Bay 57

Bauza, Don Felipe 3, 4

Bay of Islands 80

Baxa Point 23

Beagle Bluff 11

Channel . . 95, 100, 103

Island 113

Beaubasin, Port 52

Beaufort Bay 128

Bedford Bay 43

Bell Bay 53

Mountain 101

Bellaco Rock 8, !)

Bending Cove 62

Benito Inlet 120

Blanco, Cape 3, 4, 8

Boat Island (Diego Ramirez) 98

BonetBay C9

Boqueron, Mount . . . . 38, 39
a

INDEX.

Page

Boqueron, Point 33

Borja Bay 64, 145

Bouchage Bay 49

Bougainville Bay 49

Sugar Loaf . . 53

Bougainville, M. . . 49, 52, 53

Bournand Bay 49

Bradley Cove 53

Brazo Ancho, Point . . . . 135

de Norte 116

Breaker Bay 89

Breaksea Island .. .. 117,118

Brecknock Passage 93

Brenton Sound 37

Broderip Bay 44

Broke's Harbour 36

Brown Bay 42

Brunswick Peninsula . . . . 62
Buckland, Mount . . . . 35, 36
Bulkeley's Channel. (See Xaultegua)

Bulkeley 25,118,119

Buraess Island 54

Burney, Mount 129

Bynoe Islands ..118

Island 42

Point -..118

Byron Island 118

Byron .. 3,28,48,64,119,121

Canal of the Mountains .. 132

Candelaria Point 116

Canning Isles 13o

Capstan Rocks 95

Carlos III. Island .. .. 58,59
Carteret, Captain . . . . 64, 83

Cascade Harbour 53

Castellano Islands 55

Castlereagh, Cape

Pnpre
Castro Islands . . . . . . 54

Catalina Bay 28

Cathedral, Mount 116

Cayetano Island . . . . 44, 54

Ceres Island 130

Channels Mouth 120

Charles Islands . . . . 57, 58
Chatham Island .. .. 134,135

Cheape Channel 121

Child's Bluff . . .0 . . . . 62

Choiseul Bay 59

Christmas Sound 95

Churruca, Port 81

Cirujano Island 123

Clapperton Inlet 129

Clarence Island .. .. 41,52

Clearbottom Bay 97

Clerke, Port 95

Cockburn Channel. . 39, 41, 92, 145

Colworth, Cape 129

Concepcion Strait, 116, 128, 134, 135
Condesa Bay . . . „ . . . . 68

Convents 15

Cook, Captain .. .. 96,104

Cook Bay 95

Cooke, Port 36

Cordes Bay 56

Cordova Islet 58

Cordova, Don A., 26, 49, 57, 59, 66,

69, 75, 79

Corona Isles . . 62

Coronilla, Cove 62

Corso, Mount 114, 116

Cortado. Cape 82

Courtenay Sound 93

Coventry, Cape . . . . 56, 144

Coy Inlet .. 13

Croker Peninsula 74

Crooked Reach . . . . 64, 145

INDEX.

Pa<*e

Cuaviguilgua . . 80

Cuevas, Cape 81

Cupola 83

Curioso, Cape ^

Currents off Cape Quod, 66, 74; near
False Cape Horn, 100; off Her-
mite Islands, id. 101; near Cape

Horn 102,110

Cutler, Mr 129

Cutter Cove . . 62

Darby Cove 81

Dawson Island . . •. . 33, 35

Dead Tree Island 123

Dean Harbour 44

Deceit, Cape, rocks off it .. 102

Deep Harbour 128

Deepwater Sound 88

De Gennes River 51

Delffadu, Point 22

Descubierta's Voyage . . . . 9

Deseado, Cape 87

Desecno 124

Desire, Port 4, 5, 1 8

Desolation, Cape 93

Diana Islands 131

Peak 85

Dieao Ramirez Islands . . . . 97

Dighton Cove 45

Dinner Cove 44

Direction Hills 20, 21 , 22

Isles 84

Disappointment Bay . . . . 133
Dislocation Harbour . . . - 86
Dome of St. Paul's . . 123, 125

Doris Cove 94

Duff's Bay 97

Duncan Rock

Page

Dundee Rock 117

Dungeness Point . . . . 19, 20

Dyer, Cape 117

Dynely Sound, Cockburn Channel 41

Bay 116, 118

Dynevor Castle 63

Eagle Bay 48

Earnest, Cape 132

Easter Bay 132

Echenique, Point 80

Edgeworth(o£i;wBeaufort)Cape45, 46

Elena, Port St 1, 18

Elizabeth Bay . . . . 57, 144
Island, 26, 48, 62 ; Anchor-
age to the north of . . 26, 1 43

Ellen Bay 134

El Morrion 64, 65

Elvira, Point 54

English Narrows 135

English Reach 58

Entrance, Mount . . . . 10, 12

Escape Bay 134

Esperanza Island .. .. 133, 134
EstevanGulf .. .. 121,122,123
Evangelists . . . . 84, 85, 14<>

Evouts Isles 102

Eustou Opening 63

Bay 89

Eyre, Sir George, Sound . . 135

Exeaquil 71

Exmouth Promontory .. .. 13b
Expectation Bay . lo">

Fairway Isles 128

Fairweather, Cape, 13, 14; mistaken
for Cape Virgins id.

INDEX.

Page

Fallos Channel .. . . 11 6, 118

False Corona Isles 62

Famine, Port 30,47

Fatal Bay 136

Felix, Point .. .. .. .. 81

Field Bay 41, 43

Fiocham Islands 88

Fish Cove 25

Fitton Harbour . . . . . . 36

Fitz Roy Channel 62

■ islands 40

, Captain 39, 41, 42, 58,

59, 61, 63, 64, 68, 74, 84; his
description of the outer Coast of
Tierra del Fuego, 85, et seq. ; 139,

140

Flinn Sound 118

Flores Bay 67

Fog Bay 132

Forelius Peninsula . . . . 122, 124

Fortescue Bay 56, 144

Fortune Bay 1 29, 130

Forty-five, Cape 62

Fox Bay 37

French Bay 50

Freshwater Cove 53

Bay . . . . 29, 33

Friars 15

Franklin Sound 100

Froward, Cape 51, 52, 144

Furies, East and West 41, 92

Fury Cove 136

Harbour , 42, 92

Island 91

Peaks 92

Galleaos River

Gabriel Channel . .
Gallant, Port . .

35,36

Page
15, 16, 18

George, Cape 113

Gilbert Islands 94

Glacier Bay . . , 70

Glasscot, Point 51

Glacier Sound 79

Gloucester, Cape 89

Goeree Road 102

Gonsalez Narrows 54

Good Harbour 119

Goodluck Bay. (See Flores Bay)

Good's Bay 129

Good Success, Cape .. .. 104

Bay .. 104,139

Grafton Islands . . . . 89, 90

Gracia, Cape 26

Graves, Lieutenant . . 43, 45, 52

Graves, Mount 33

Greenouffh Peninsula . . . . 52
Gregory, Cape, 21, 23; Bay, 23, 143,

148
Guaianeco Islands .. .. 118, 119

Guanacoes 24

Guard Bay 134

Guia Narrows 134

Guirior Bay 67

Gun Bay 49

Half-Port Bay . . . . 72, 145
Hall's, Captain Basil, Volcano 37

Halt Bay 136

Hamper Bay 130

Hanover Island . . . . 128, 134

Hardy Peninsula 99

Harriss Bay 37

Harvey Bay 119

Hawkins Bay 52

Hazard Isles 120

INDEX.

Pasje
Henderson Island 97

Henry, Port 114, 116

Hernianos Dos 53

Hennite Islands 99

Herschell Island 100

HewettBay 42,43

Hey wood Passage 131

Hidden Harbour 53

Holland, Cape . . 56

Holloway Sound 125

Hope Harbour (Magdalen Sound) 38

(outer Coast) . . 90

• Mount 37

Hoppner Sound 125

Horace Peaks 93

Horn, Cape, 100; rocks off it, 102,

107 ; passage round it, 138, et seq.

Horn, False Cape . . . . 97, 98

Hose Harbour 129

Humming Bird Cove . . 34, 35
Hunter Island 130

Icy Sound (Barbara Channel) 44

(near Cape Tamar) 79

Ignacio Bay 121

lldefonsos 96

Indian Bay 49

Cove « 97

. Reach 135

Indians, Pat agon i an . . . . 24

Inglefield, Cape 54

Island .. .. 62,64

Innocents Island 134

Inman Bay . , 52

Cape 87, 88

Inlet Bay 130

Ipswich Island "9

Isabel, Cape U3

Page
Isabella Island go

Island Bay j 30

Island Harbour i3(j

Islands, Bay of 80

Isthmus Bay, Smyth's Channel 130

Isthmus crossed by Byron . . 124

James Island 53

Jerome Channel . . . . 57, 6 1

Jesuit Sound 1 20

Joachim, St., Cove 1 0 1

Judge R.ocks 85

Julian Inlet 120

K at eii's Peak 100

Keats Sound . . 39

Kelly Harbour .. .. 121,122
Kelp, to avoid it, 27 ; remarks about,-

107

Kempe Harbour 53

Island 91

Peaks 92

Kentish Isles 135

King Island 40

Kirke Narrows 132

Kirke, Mr 113, 118, 133

Lago de Botella . . . . 61, 62

Landfall Islands 87

Langara Bay 66

, Port ."•!

Laredo Bay 28, 1 IS

Last Harbour 59

Last Hope Iulet 133

Latitude Bay 87

Laura Basin 89

INDEX.

Page

Law Peaks 86

Leading Hill 97

Island 89

Leeward Bay 132

Lennox Island 102, 104

L'Etoile, Cape 72

Level Bay 136

Lion Cove. (See Posadas Bay.)

Logan Rock 126

Lomas Bay 33, 34

London Island 92

Londonderry Islands . . . . 94

Long Reach . . 66, et seq. ; 145

Lord Nelson Strait 128

Lort, Point 98

Lyell Sound 52

Machado 119

Machado, Cape 120

Madrede Dios, 113, 116, 128, 134,

135
Magalhaens, Strait oi . . passim
Magdalen Sound . . . . 38, 39

Magill's Islands 42

Magnetism, remarkable effects of, in

Nassau Bay 101

March Harbour 95

Marian's Cove . . . . 72, 145

Marine Islands . . . . . . 125

Maurice Cove 104

Maxwell, Port 101

Mazzaredo Bay 53

Medal Bay 73

Mellersh Cove 54

Melville Sound 41

Mercury Sound 40

Mercy, Harbour of . . 83, 86, 145
Mesier Channel 119, 128, 135, 136

Page

Michael, Point 135

Middleton, Cape 59

Milky Way 91

Millar Cove 54

Island 136

Mitford Rees, Point 126

Monday, Cape . , 73

Monmouth, Cape 28

Montague Bay 131

, Cape 117

Monte Video 9

Montrose Island 121

More-West, Point 131

Morro of Sauta Agueda . . . . 52

Morton Island 97

Murray Cove 53

Muscle Bay 59

Narborough, Sir Johw
Islands

26
83
130

Narrow Creek
Narrow, First, 20, 22, 23, 143, 148,

149

Second 24, 25, 143, 148

Nash Harbour 59

Nassau Bay 100

Island 50

Nativity, Point 96

Neesham Bay 116

Negro, Cape 28, 143

New Island . . .. 102. 103, 104

Newman Inlet 125

New Year's Sound 99

Islands . . .. 139

Nicholson Rock 94

Nodales, 8, 9, 53 ; Peaks . . 51

Noir, Cape 41

Island 90

INDEX.

Pape

Noir Roads 90

Non-entry Bay 37

North Anchorage (Barbara Channel)

42,43

(Smyth's Channel)

129

North Cove 42,92

Kill 15

Nose Peak 33

Notch, Cape 67,70

Nunez Creek 62

NutlandBay 43

OakeBay 129

Oazy Harbour 26

Observation Islets 84

Mount 83

Obstruction Sound 1 33

Offing Island 37

Open Bay 137

Oracion Bay 130

Orange Bay 98,99

Cape . . . . 20, 22, 149

Osorno Bay 66

Otter Islands 129

Otway Bay (Tierra del Fuego) 71,88

. , Port 126

Water 62

Owen, Port 37

Pack Saddle Island . . • • 99

Palmer Point 130

Park Bay 40

Parker, Cape 77, 82

Parry Harbour 37

Passage Point • . ■> • • • • ol

1'a^e

Passage round Cape Horn . . 112

Patagonian Indians 24

Peckett's Harbour .. ,. 24,26

Peel Inlet 134, 135

Pelepelgua 71

Penas, Gulf of 136

Penguin Island • • . . . . 6

Periaofua 52

Philip, St., Bay 28

Phillip, Cape . . 77, 79, 82, 128

Phillips Rocks 94

Piazzi Island 130

Pickerssrill Cove 96

Picton Opening . . .. 116, 118
Pillar, Cape, 84, 85, 86, 107, 140, 147

Pitt Channel 134,135

Playa Parda Cove . . . . 70, 145
Pond Bay, and Mount . . . . 54

Porpesse Point 28

Portland Bav 135

Posadas Bay 66

Possession Bay . . . . 20, 143

, Cape . . 19, 20, 21

Pratt Passage 93

Primero, Cape .. .. 114,116

Providence, Cape . . . . 77, 147

Prowse Islands 40

Puchachailgua 80

Purcell Island 124

Pyramid Hill 39

Quekn Adelaide Archipelago

113, 128
Quod, Cape . . . . 6 1. 65, 69
Quoin Hill 24

Raper, Cape 125, 126

Vlll

INDEX.

Page

Rasa Island 2

Raso, Cape 2

Red Cape 136

Rees Islets 39

Rejoice Harbour 134

Relief Harbour 133

Remarquable, Cape 49

Rennel Island 130

Retford, Cape 132

Retreat Bay 129

Rocky Bight 136

Cove

130
30

Point

Roman, Cape San 119

Rosario, Port 116

Round Island 77

Rous Sound 97

Rowlett, Cape 36

Rundle Pass 118

Rupert Island 58

San Antonio, Port . . 33, 34

San Bias Channel 113

San Diego, Cape . . . . 104, 105
Sandy Bay (Smyth Channel) 130

(Wide Channel) 137

Point 28,33

. 133,134

30, 38,48

San Estevan Chaunel
San Isidro, Cape
San Juan Island
San Miguel, Port .
San Policarpo, Port.
San Pedro Sound
San Tomas Island .
San Roman, Cape .
San Silvestfe, Point
Santa Anna, Point .
Santa Barbara, Port

119
53
123
119
27
30, 31
. 117

Pilgp

Santa Brigida y Santa Agueda Bay 50
Santa Casilda, Cape . . . . 80
Santa Cruz . . . . 10, 13, 18

SanTadeo River 123

Santa Lucia, Cape 113

Santa Magdalena Islands 27, 148
Santa Martha Island . . 27, 148

Santa Monica, Port 81

Santiago, Cape .. .. 113,134
Sarmiento, 27, 28, 36, 38, 47, 50, 51,
53, 69,71, 83, 116, 130; his ac-
count of the Ancon Sin Salida 131,

134, 135

Channel 133

Mount 35, 39,41,103,107

its height .. 35

Saumarez Island 135

Schapenham Bay 98

Schetky, Cape 88

Schomberg, Cape .. .. 41,91
Sea Bear Bay . . . . 6, 18

Sea Reach . . 75, et secj. ; 145
Seal Cove (Jerome Channel) . . 62

Sea Lion Island 11

Seasons (State of) on the Coast of
Tierra del Fuego . . 109, et seq.
Secretary Wren's Island . . 58

Sedger River . . . . 31, 47, 51
Separation Harbour . . . . 83
Shag Island (Christmas Sound) 95

Narrows . . . . 44,. 54

— Rock 8

Shelter Island, Playa Parda Cove, 70

Shipton Cove 54

Sholl Bay (Magdalen Sound) . . 39
Sholl's Bay (Cape Phillip) .. 79
Shoulder Peak 86

INDEX.

Page

Skyring Harbour 83

Lieutenant 45, 77, 113, 131

, Mount 41,92

Water.. .. 61,63,133

Small Craft Bight 137

Smyth's Channel . . 79, 128, 131

Harbour 45

Snowy Channel 69

Sound 66

Snug Bay 55,144

Soundings off the Coast of Tierra del

Fuego •. . . . 108

Spaniard's Harbour 103

Spartan Passage 110

Speedwell Bay ,118

Spirings Bay 7

St. Andrew's Sound 135

St. Bartholomew's Bay. (See Pec-

kett's Harbour.)
St. David's Head. (See El Morrion.)

Sound . . . . 59, 60

St. Espiritu Santo, Cape . . . . 33

St. George's Gulf 2

St. Isidro Point 25

St. Julian, Port . . . . 8, 9, 18
St. Martin's Cove ,. .. 100,101
St. Mary, Point . . . . 28, 29
St. Michael's Channel . . . . 54

St. Nicholas Bay 50

St. Philip, Mount 31

St. Sebastian Channel . . . . 33

St. Simon's Bay 54

Head 25

St. Vincent, Cape (Strait Le Maire)

105

(Sweepstakes Foreland)

25,28,148

Staines Peninsula 133

Staples Inlet .. .. •• .. 52
Staten Island .. ..106,139,110

Steep-Tree Bluff 37

Stewart's Bay 68, 7 2

Stewart Harbour 91

Stokes Bay .. .. .. .. 91

Creek (Lyell Sound) . . 53

Inlet 38

, Point 62

. Captain, 9, 11, 13,51,58,64,

68, 70, 71, 73, 75, 76, 77, 79, 84,

113, 114, 120,125

Stormy Bay 1"

Channel 81

Strait Le Maire, 104 ; passage

through it 1 39

Sugar Loaf (Gulf of Pefias) .. 126

(Evangelists) . . . . -84

Sulivan Sound 62

Sundav, Cape 87

Surrel's Ledge 5

Susannah Cove 25

Swallow Harbour . . . . 67, 1 1 1

(rocks off it) 68

Sweepstakes Foreland . . 25, 28
Sympiesometer, excellence of, in pre

dieting weather off Cape Horn ]('!»

Tadeo River, San 103

Tamar, Cape 77, 1 17

Harbour .. 77,7s. 146

Island 78

Tarn Bay 119, 136

, Mount is

Tate, Cape

Tekeinika Sound 99

INDEX.

Page

Temperature at Port Otway, 127 ;

mean temperature at Port Famine,

142
Tempestad, Canal de la .. .. 81

Teran Isles 61

Texada Bay, (See Bougainville Bay)

Tianitau 119

Tilly Bay 59

Thieves Sound . . • • . . 39, 93,

Thetis Bay 105

Three Island Bay 62

Three Points, Cape (East Coast) 3

(West Coast) 114

Tides — off Cape Blanco, 4. Penguin
Island, 6. Sea Bear Bay, 7. Santa
Cruz, 13. Off Cape Fairweather,
14. Betweed Cape Blanco and
Cape Virgins, 17. Between the
First and Second Narrows, 23 ;
rippling much, id. At Cape
Gregory, 24, 144. Rapid Tides in
Second Narrow, 25, 143. Rise
and fall at Fish Cove, 26. Eliza-
beth Island, 27. Between Eliza-
beth Island and Port Famine, 30.
At Port Famine, 31. Cockburn
Channel, 40. North Anchorage
in Barbara Channel, 43. Bedford
Bay, id. Shag Narrow, 45. Cape
Froward, 52. English Reach, 57.
York Roads, 57. Off Carlos III.
Island, 59. Fitz Roy Channel, 60.
Jerome Channel and Interior
Waters, 63. Long Reach, 74.
Tamar Harbour, 78. Near Cape
Tamar, id. Off Cape Pillar, 84, 96,
106. Between Capes Pillar and
Horn, 96. At Cape Horn, id. Strait
Le Maire, 103, 105, 106, 139. In

Page
Good Success Bay, 105. Off Cape
San Diego, id., 106. Port Henry,
115. Port Santa Barbara, 118. On
the Coast of Western Patagonia,
127. Guia Narrows, 134. In San
Estevan Channel, id. Off Cape St.
John, 139.

Tom's Harbour 42

Bay 136

Narrow 54

Tomas, San, Island .123

Tower Rock (Port Desire) . . 5

(off Cape Noir) 41, 91

Townshend Harbour . . . . 92

Trafalgar, Mount 1 30

Transition Bay 39

Treble Island 94

Trefusis Bay 97

Tres Montes, Cape .. . . 125, 126
Trinidad, Gulf of, 114, 115, 128, 135

Truxillo Bay 82

Tuesday Cove 82, 1 45

Turn, Cape 39

Tussac Rock 41

Two Bays, Cape 2

Ulloa Peninsula 59

Union Sound 1 30

Upright Bay 76

Cape 76, 79

Uriarte, Port 80

Useless Bay 33

Valcarcel Bay (See Eagle Bay.)

Valdez, Port 35

Valentine Harbour (Strait of Magal-
haens) 79,81,145

INDEX.

Page
Valentyn Bay (S. E. Coast of Tierra

del Fuego) 103

Valentyn, Cape 30, 31, 33, 34, 38

^ ancouver Island 133

Van Isles 116

Variation of the Compass, 1, 7, 18,
32,41,63, 114,115, 127

Vernal 38, ~-2

Victory, Cape .. .. 84, 113,146

Passage 1 30

Virgins, Cape . - - < 16, 18, 19

\ i'.lena Cove 67

Villiers, Point 62

Vivian Island 62

Voces Bay 47

Wager, Wreck of the. . .. 119

Wager Island 118

Walker Bay 135

Wallis'sMark 58

Captain . . 66, 68, 83

Warp Bay 40

Warrington Cove 45

Watchman's Cape 8

Waterfall Bay 136

Waterman Island 95

Weather on the Coast of Tierra del

Fuego 109, 112

* Western Coast of

Patagonia 126

Weddel's Bluff 11

. , Cape 97

,Mr. .. 1,12,97,98

Week Islands 87

Welcome Bay 1 30

Wellington Island . . 1 15, 119, 128

Wet Island 44

West, Cape (Hermite Islands) 100
West Channel H4

West Entrance of Sfrait ol Magal*

haens 85

West Point 13]

Westminster Hall . . . . 83, 85
Whale Point . . . . . . . 59

Sound . .

Boat Bay 132

Sound .. . . 91.

White Horse 113

White Kelp Cove 136

Wiekham Island ;

Wide Channel 116, 128, 135, 136

Willes Bay 37

V inds — between Capes Blanco and
Virgins, 17, 13S. In the western
portion of the Strait of MagaTti
and off Cape Froward, 46. Outer
Coast of Tierra del Fur o. I
111, 112. On the Coast of West-
ern Patagonia, 126. In Strait Le
Maire, 1 39. To the South of Cape

Horn 140

Windward Bay 1 l(i

Wollaston Island 100

Woodcock, Mount . . . . i !.
Wood Cove (Jerome Channel)

Wood Islands 96

Wood's Bay 55, 111

Mount !>

Worsley Bay and Sound . . .. 133

X.
Xaultegi \. Gulf of

Xavier Island

i 1. 73
. . 1-21

York Minsteb 95

York Roads 57, 1 i 1

Zach Peniksdla

130

Jp^l

^F.

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v-s**.

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Full text of "Sailing directions for the coasts of Eastern and Western Patagonia, from Port St. Elena on the east side, to Cape Tres Montes on the west side, including the Strait of Magalhaens, and the sea coast of Tierra Del Fuego"

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