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ASTOR, LEKOX :
SAINT BARBARA
Afler Engraving by De Bruyan.
SANTA BARBARA
AND
MONTECITO
PAST AND
PRESENT
BY
JOHN. R. SQUTHWORTH, F. R. G. S.
Author of "The Mines of Mexico", "Yucatan", "Sonora",
"Sinaloa", "Mexico", etc., etc.
Drawings by H. H. Hallihav
orena studios
29 E. Dr LA GuERSA StRKET, SaNTA BaRBARA, CALIFORNIA
MCMXX
' THE NFwT^"!
PUBLIC LI3R A R I
Copyright 1920
BY
John R. Southworth, f. r. g. s
PRESS of
THE SCHAUER PRINTING STUDIO
SANTA BARBARA, CAL., U. S. A.
DEDICATED
TO THE MEMORY OF
ALFRED SIMSON, f. r. g. s.
WORKS PUBLISHED
By John R. Southworth, F. R. G. S.
SoNORA, The State of, Spanish and English Text.
SiNALOA, The State of, Spanish and English Text.
Baja California, The Territory of, IViih Map.
San Diego, Spanish and English Text.
Vera Cruz, The State of. With Maps.
Mexico, Distrito Federal, Illustrated.
Puebla, The State of, Spanish and English Text.
The Mines of Mexico, Spanish and English Text.
Yucatan, The State of, Spanish and English Text.
Oaxaca, The State of. Spanish and English Text.
Banker's Directory of Mexico, 4 Vols.
Official Mining Directory of Mexico.
Official Directory of Mines and Haciendas of Mexico.
Vancouver, British Columbia.
FOREWORD
The object of the present work is to narrate
in a concise form, the principal events in the history
of Santa Barbara and Montecito, and to point out
and illustrate their natural attractions and beauties
to those unacquainted with them, who in many cases
have neither time nor inclination to wade through
the many ponderous and learned volumes already
written.
J. R. S.
Orena Studios,
Santa Barbara.
December. 1920.
[The absence of accents is due to the fact that it"1
was impossible for the manufacturers to supply them I
at the needed time. The Sciiaukr Printing Studio. J
BIBLIOGRAPHIA
AUTHORITIES CONSULTED
Ames, (John G.), Report on Mission Indians of California.
Archivo de Santa Barbara. Mss. 1 1 Vols.
Baegert, Jacob. An Account of the Aboriginal Inhabitants of the Cali-
fornia Peninsula.
Bancroft, H. H. History of California, 7 Vols.
Bartlelt, J. R. Personal Narrative, New Mexico, Texas and California.
Bausman, W. Early California.
Beechy, F. W. Narrative of a Voyage to the Pacific, Etc., in 1825-8.
Bell, H. Reminiscences of a Ranger.
Bliss, W. R. Paradise in the Pacific.
Caballeria, Fr. Historia de la Ciudad de Santa Barbara.
Capron, E. S. History of California.
Crespi, Juan. Viage de la expedicion de terra de San Diego a Mon-
terey.
Davis, W. W. H. El Gringo.
De Mofras, Duflot. Explorations de I'Oregon, des Californias.
Englehardt, Fr. Zephyrin, O. F. M. Missions and Missionaries of Cali-
fornia, 4 Vols.
Evans, R. S. Cabrillo's Voyage.
Ferrelo, Bartolme. Cabrillo's Voyage.
Forbes, A. History of California.
Hakluyt's Voyages. The principal Navigators. 3 Vols.
Hittell, Theo. H. History of California.
Holder, Chas. F. Channel Islands of California.
Humboldt, Alex. von. The Kingdom of New Spain.
King, T. B. California; The Wonder of the Age.
Mason, Jesse D. History of Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties.
Morgan, Lewis. Houses and House-Life of the American Aborigines.
Nordhoff, Chas. California.
Neve, Felipe de. Regulations for the Government of the Province of
California.
Palou, Francisco. Noticas de la California.
Powers, Stephen. Aborigines of California.
Richman, Irving B. California under Spain and Mexico.
Robertson, W. History of America.
Robinson, A. Life in California.
Royce, Josiah. California.
Tuthill, F. History of California.
Valencia. Noticias de la Provincias de las Californias.
Venegas, Miguel. Noticias de la California.
Venegas, Miguel. Natural and Political History of California
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PART I Page 7
Expedition of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo — Cus-
toms and Religion of the Santa Barbara Indi-
ans — Second Expedition under General Sebas-
tien Vizcaino — Saint Barbara — Foundation of
Presidio by Padre Junipero Serra — Establish-
ment of Santa Barbara Mission by Padre
Fermin F. de Lasuen.
PART II Page 37
History of The Santa Barbara Mission —
Spanish Supremacy — Mexican Occupation
— American Acquisition — Early Days in
Santa Barbara.
PART III Page 147
Present Day Santa Barbara — City Govern-
ment, Public Utilities — Financial Institutions
and Commerce — Hotels — Education, Hospit-
als and Charitable Organizations — Churches,
Societies and Clubs.
PARl^ IV Page 230
Montecito — Miramar — Sandyland — Carpin-
teria — Goleta — Mountain Trails — Outdoor
Life.
PART V Page 256
The Channel Islands.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PART I Page 7
PART II Page 37
PART ill Page 147
PART IV Page 230
PART V. Page 256
ILLUSTRATIONS
Page
St. Barbara, from engraving by De Bruyan Frontispiece
Santa Barbara in 1810 "
Flagship San Diego, off Santa Barbara 17
Saint Barbara, (from mediaeval print) ^'
Presidio, 1 788. Legend of Santa Barbara 27
Franciscan Friar, (from an old print) 33
Spanish Galleon 36
Peaceful Days at the Mission 39
Corridor of the Mission 45
Old Arch, Mission Canyon 47
Indian Attack on Santa Barbara Mission facing 48
The Mission in Colonial Days facing 49
The Mission Fountain 57
High Wall of the Mission 61
Spanish Coat-of-Arms 64
Mexican Coat-of-Arms 74
American Eagle and Flag 82
Colonel John C. Fremont 83
Fremont's Headquarters 87
Castle Rock, Santa Barbara 101
Veranda, Casa de la Guerra 107
Casa de Aguirre 1 23
The Court, Casa de Aguirre 125
State Street in 1885 133
Santa Barbara's First Court House, 1871 134
Bird's Eye View of Santa Barbara, 1887 135
Santa Barbara in 1883 140
Spanish Treasure-Chest 145
General View of Santa Barbara Mission 146
Plaza del Mar, and Cabrillo or West Boulevard 148
Orena Studios 1 49
A Cottage at El Encanto Hotel 151
City Park from Booth's Point 1 52
Pergola, El Encanto Hotel 1 53
Automobile Club of Southern California 157
Residence of Major John H. H. Peshine 159
Residence of Carl Oscar Borg 1 60
Harbor, St. Peter Port, Guernsey 163
State Street, Santa Barbara, 1920 169
Federal Building and Post Of&ce 171
View of American Film Company's Plant 187
The Historic Arlington 190
Arlington Hotel. 1920 191
Ambassador Hotel, from Santa Barbara Bay 193
El Encanto Hotel, Mission Ridge 195
State Normal School 203
The Tower, Santa Barbara Girls School 205
Lower Corner from Playground, Santa Barbara Girls School 206
Corner of Residence and Driveway, Santa Barbara Girls School. . . 207
ILLUSTRATIONS— Continued
Page
St. Anthony's Seminary 209
General View of the Santa Barbara Cottage Hospital 211
The Historic Arrellanes Adobe. Home of the Associated Charities. 217
First Presbyterian Church 222
First Church of Christ Scientist 223
Channel Drive to Montecito 231
Residence at Montecito 233
Entrance to Residence of Mr. David Gray, Montecito 235
Country Club, Montecito 236
Famous Grape Vine in Montecito, 1876 237
The Deane School, Montecito 240
Mountain Drive, Santa Barbara 250
Headland, Santa Cruz Island 262
Valdez Cave, Santa Cruz Island 263
Views of Anacapa Island 265
PART I.
Expedition of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo — Cus-
toms and Religion of the Santa Barbara In-
dians — Second Expedition under General
Sebastien Vizcaino — Saint Barbara — Foun-
dation of Presidio by Padre Junipero Serra
— Establishment of Santa Barbara Mission
by Padre Fermin F. de Lasuen.
OMANCE should be accredited
with inspiring the charming
name given to California. In
the year 1510, a novel was pub-
lished in Seville, Spain, in
which ''California" was given
as the name of a mythical isle
rich in minerals and precious
stones, and said to be inhabited
by a tribe of Amazons. This
book, entitled ''Las Sergas de
Esplandian" (The Exploits of
Esplandian) was written by
Garcia Ordonez de Montalvo
as a sequel to the famous novel
"Amadas de Gaula" by Lobe-
ira, which he had translated. The two works
were printed in the same volume, and evidently
were widely read in Spain. That their contents
were familiar to the early explorers of America
SANTA BARBARA
is proved by the fact that Bernal Diaz, compan-
ion of Cortez and recorder of the conquest of
Mexico, often mentions the "Amadas" to which
the story of ''Esplandian" was attached. The
passage containing the famous name is as fol-
lows : —
''Be it known unto you that at the right hand
of the Indies there w^as an island formed of the
largest rocks known and called California, very
near to the terrestial Paradise. This island
v/as inhabited by robust dark women of great
strength and great warm hearts, who lived al-
most as Amazons, and no man lived among them.
Their weapons and the trappings of the wild
beasts which they rode after taming them were
entirely of gold, and no other metal existed on
the island. The people lived in well-hewn caves.
They had many ships in which they made ex-
cursions to other countries, where they caught
men whom they carried away and subsequently
killed. During periods of peace with their
neighbors they commingled with them without
restraint. When children were born the females
were preserved, but the males were killed at
once, saving only those required to guard against
depopulation, so that their domination over the
land would be securely maintained.
'There were many griffins on the island, and
they were a great torment. There were also an
AND MONTECITO
infinite number of wild beasts which are found
in no other part of the world. When these ani-
mals had young the women went to fetch them
and carried them, covered with heavy skins, to
their caves, and there bred them and fed them
with the men and male children. The women
brought up these animals with such skill that
they knew them well and did them no harm, and
they attacked and killed any man who entered
the island and ate him; and when their appetite
w^as sated they would take them up flying into
the air and let them fall from great heights,
killing them instantly."
The above extract, from a once well known
book, is interesting, if only to show what a Span-
iard of the sixteenth century considered the at-
tributes of women with ''great warm hearts."
So, when the early explorers came upon this
smiling land, which they mistook for an island
separated from the mainland by a long gulf,
they named it in honor of that imaginary isle
"California."
The Spaniard did not hold this land of gold
quite long enough to see his visions fulfilled, but
California has developed far beyond his wildest
dreams.
Expedition of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo
The discovery of Santa Barbara dates from
the expedition under Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo,
which sailed from Puerto de Navidad, Mexico,
9
SANTA BARBARA
June 27, 1542, with two vessels, the flagship
'\San Salvador" and ^'La Victoria." The object
of this expedition was the search for a shorter
route, in a westerly direction, from Mexico, be-
tween the north sea and the south sea. He relied
on the supposed existence of a strait v/hich
would enable him to sail on a direct voyage to
Asia.
The result of Cabrillo's investigations con-
cerning the imaginary passage impelled him to
direct his course northward until he reached
latitude 36 degrees, where he found himself in a
channel which he supposed must lie between two
continents, but upon making explorations he
found that the land to the west consisted of a
group of islands, which he subsequently navi-
gated. It appears from the record kept of this
voyage that Cabrillo miscalculated the size of
the islands, but from the degree of latitude given
and other particulars, there is no doubt that the
channel and islands mentioned are those that
front Santa Barbara.
The log of the voyage shows that on October
13, 1542, these adventurers visited an uninhab-
ited island, and mention is also made of an island
fifteen leagues in length; on the 14th and 15th
they passed to the mainland, where a lovely val-
ley nestling in an amphitheatre of hills (Santa
Barbara) met their vision, and after exploring
a mountain (Santa Ynez) with keen interest,
10
AND MONTECITO
they retraced their steps. After noting their ob-
servations in the log, the expedition resumed its
course towards the north, but owing to Cabrillo
sustaining a broken arm, due to a fall, a lengthy
stay was made at one of the islands (San Mig-
uel), where from the effects of unskilful surgery
and exposure, the hardy navigator passed away,
on January 3, 1543. He is supposed to have
been buried on the shore of Cuyler's Harbor,
San Miguel, but no trace of his grave has been
found. His companions named the island ^^uan
Rodriguez," but he has been deprived of even
this slight tribute to his memory. It would be
•a slight token of regard if the State would name
the island ^'Cabrillo"; San Miguel has been
well remembered in California, and could well
spare an island.
On his deathbed, Cabrillo urged his succes-
sor, the pilot Bartholome Ferrolo, to continue
the explorations, which he did with much cour-
age -and daring. About the middle of February,
1543, he left the harbor and voyaged to the
northward, discovering the capes of Mendocino
and Blanco (the latter in the southern part of
what is now the state of Oregon) , but the weather
became so cold and stormy that he was obliged
to turn back, and after suffering many hardships,
reached Navidad in April, 1543. In virtue of
the discoveries made by Cabrillo and Ferrolo
the Spaniards claimed the territory on the Pa-
li
SANTA BARBARA
cific coast of North America up to the fort>-
second degree of latitude, a claim which they
maintained for nearly 300 years.
Customs and Religion of the
Santa Barbara Indians
At the time of the arrival of Cabrillo, the
shore of the Santa Barbara channel is said to
have supported a larger native population than
•any other part of California, and in his log the
explorer states that he was well received and hos-
pitably treated by them.
It has been proved by research into history
that the Santa Barbara Indian was by no means
dull of intellect, and was in fact superior to the
Indian of the Atlantic seaboard, and of the Mis-
sissippi Valley. Cut off by the mountains from
the fierce tribes to the north and south, his life
was peaceful, and his whole happiness \vas
bound up in his affections and in his immediate
surroundings. The use of arrows was at first
hardly understood, his amusement consii>ting
rather in dancing to music that was anything but
tuneful, than in active pursuits of nn athletic
or military nature. He rarely went beyond the
limits of his district, but preferred to remain at
home with his kinsfolk.
It is authoritatively stated by several writers
that not only were the native houses skilfully
erected, but the Indians showed ability in the
12
AND MONTECITO
manufacture of all kinds of useful articles. Pots,
mortars, and other kitchen utensils, although not
artistically finished, nevertheless portrayed that
skilled hands had fashioned them; their knives
and grindstones were of flint, and their musical
instruments adapted from bones and shells.
They generally ate seeds and fruits, varied by
fish and locusts. There was some hunting of the
hare, rabbit, and deer, the meat of the latter,
after being cut in strips and hung to dry on trees,
being one of the favorite articles of diet; their
principal triumph in this direction, however,
was in the serving of acorns, which were first
ground, then placed in a sieve made from woven
weeds, rinsed several times, after which the paste
was well stirred and then boiled. Thus the bit-
ter taste of the acorns was eliminated, and the
Indians were able to bake a very good substitute
for our present day bread. They were also very
fond of wild plums, blackberries, prickly pears,
and wild onions, as well as some varieties of
seeds, and though alcohol was not known, an ex-
ceedingly bitter drink is affirmed to have been
extracted from one kind of seed, the name of
which has unfortunately been lost. These in-
genious natives are even known to have dried and
smoked a root called 'Tispibata" in pipes, a good
substitute for our modern tobacco. They were
also known to have employed certain herbs for
IS
SANTA BARBARA
medicinal purposes, although no record is left
as to the results of these.
Contrary to the usual rule among savage peo-
ples, the women usually remained at home, the
men going out to gather wood and obtain provis-
ions; housekeeping, however, does not appear to
have been a serious problem, as large quantities
of necessaries were acquired and stored, and
when these were used, the same program was
repeated.
Long hair was considered a sign of beauty in
both sexes, and this was carefully tended and
decorated with ferns, flov/ers, and rings of stone;
their necks were also decorated by strings ot
beads, some of them very beautiful, consisting of
shells carefully bored through the center. It
has been said that these shells took the place or
money, but it is proved that their trade was car-
ried on by a system of barter of food and useful
articles.
There was no king in the land, each village
01 tribe governing itself, under the patriarchal
system, and as they were not at all warlike, and
had nothing to quarrel about, war was unknown.
Their outstanding virtue was love for parents
and relatives w^ho were mourned in some cases
for years after death. Unlike many of the
northern tribes, who either practised cremation
or did not bury their dead at all, the Santa Bar-
bara Indians had cemeteries which were the ob-
14
AND MONTECITO
jccts of particular care and devotion; these bury-
ing places were enclosed by a brush and post
fence, the bodies being placed in the grave face
downward and covered by the various posses-
sions of the deceased. In a succeeding para-
graph it is shown that the Indians believed in a
future life, and that the articles used on this earth
would also be needed there.
Their religious beliefs were more rational
than in the case of most savage races. Chupu, the
creator, was the deification of good; Nunaxus,
their Satan, the personification of evil. Long
ago, Chupu had created Nunaxus, who rebelled
against his creator, and treacherously tried to
overthrow him. Then Chupu, the almighty,
punished the rebel by creating man upon the
earth, who, by devouring the animal and vege-
table products thereof, checked the physical
growth of Nunaxus, who had hoped by liberal
feeding to become like unto a mountain. Foiled
in his ambition, Nunaxus ever afterwards hated
mankind, and sought to injure him.
To secure the protection of Chupu, offerings
were made to him, and dances instituted in his
honor, flutes and other instruments being played
to attract his attention. When, however, Nun-
axus brought calamity upon the Indians in the
shape of dry years, which caused dearth in the
land, or sent sickness to afflict them, their old
men entreated Chupu to protect thcni, and to ex-
15
SANTA BARBARA
orcise their Satan they shot arrows and threw
stones in the direction in which he was supposed
to be.
Their conception of Paradise was that death
transferred the Indian to Chupu's court at Ala-
pa, and as, when he was buried, his brethren also
interred all his possessions with him, he entered
into the beautiful land equipped to hunt, fish,
and live in happiness. The evil Nunaxus had
no power there and the wonderful land over-
flowed with an abundance of all kinds of pro-
visions.
No form of idolatry was practised among the
tribes inhabiting Santa Barbara, and the only re-
ligious rite consisted of dancing to obtain the
favor of Chupu.
Paintings made by the Indians were always,
curiously enough, of animals, due to the fact that
it was believed such pictures would take the at-
tention of Nunaxus from man, and that he would
wreak his vengeance on the brute creation in-
stead.
To those who are interested in the manual
work of the Indians before Santa Barbara was
on the map, a visit to the Santa Barbara Museum
of Natural History, located at 930 Anacapa
Street, open between the hours of 10 a. m., and
5 p. m., will be amply worth while.
The exhibits consist of soapstone carvmgs of
whales, seals and fishes, stone mortars, cooking
16
AND M O N T E C I T O
jars, ollas or water jars, bake stones, basket work,
shell ornaments and many rare articles too nu-
merous to mention.
Second Expedition
While there are evidences that other navigat-
ors, among them the redoubtable Drake of Dev-
on, later visited this shore, nothing of a definite
Flagship "San Diego" Off Santa Barbara
character is known concerning Santa Barbara
until the record of the voyage of General Don
Sebastian Vizcaino in 1602. This was a notable
expedition, the object being to establish some
station from the mainland that would shorten
the long voyage across the ocean from Mexico to
the Philippine Islands. With this view, Viz-
caino sailed from Acapulco on May 5th, 1602.
SANTA BARBARA
with three frigates, the flagship San Diego, San
Tomas, and Los Tres Reyes, together with a
transport conveying the necessary provisions of
food and water. He was accompanied by a
corps of geographers and surveyors, at the head
of whom was an able draftsman named Antonio
de la Asencion of the Carmelite Order, who also
acted as chaplain of one of the ships.
This expedition entered the Santa Barbara
Channel on December 4th 1602. It was the
custom of Padre Asencion to name new localities
in honor of the saint on whose festival day the
discovery took place; consequently, the Channel
received the name of Saint Barbara, to whom the
4th day of December is sacred. Asencion's
maps and drawings were very complete, and the
names affixed to the various bodies of water and
points of land have been officially recognized
ever since.
Vizcaino visited the mainland near Point
Concepcion, where the Indian Chief of a popu-
lous settlement offered each Spaniard who
would become a resident of his town ten wives,
but this generous offer was rejected. Vizcaino
then sailed northward, and after encountering
much bad weather and enduring many hard-
ships, returned to Acapulco March 21, 1603.
A letter from Vizcaino to King Philip III of
Spain, dated May 23, 1603, appears to furnish
the earliest known specimen of California
18
AND MONTECITO
^'boom" literature. An extract from this com-
munication says: — ''This land has a genial clim-
ate, its waters are good, and its soil fertile judg-
ing from the variety and luxuriant growth of
trees and plants, and it is thickly settled with
people, whom I found to be of gentle disposition,
peaceable and docile," and he was very anxious
for the king to consent to his founding a colony
in this delightful land. After many delays,
Philip III in 1606 ordered the viceroy of New
Spain to fit out immediately an expedition for
the occupation and settlement of parts of Cali-
fornia, but before this could be done, Vizcaino
died, and his colonization scheme perished with
him.
Saint Barbara
The biography of Saint Barbara, in whose
honor the fair city of Santa Barbara is named,
appears in the Greek and Muscovite Sanctorals
and the Roman Breviary, from which the fol-
lowing brief summary is taken.
Saint Barbara was born in Nicomedia, Asia
Minor, A. D. 218. Her father, Dioscorus, a
Roman official under the Emperor Maximin,
had been instructed to exterminate all Christians
in his territory. St. Barbara had been educated
in the Christian religion without the knowledge
of her father, by the venerable Origen, one of
the early members of the faith. Observing how
19
SANTA BARBARA
the Christians were being martyred by her
father, she pleaded with him to spare them; this
so enraged him that he had Barbara imprisoned
in a tower, and in order to awaken her passion,
sent several dissolute young nobles to her, who
w^ere very persistent in their advances with the
object of seeking her hand in marriage. Barbara
had, however, previously dedicated herself to
God, and nothing would change her resolution
to remain true to her vows. This so incensed her
father that he had her arraigned before tlje
Judge Marcian, who assigned her to the execu-
tioners for martyrdom. In the midst of her
torture, she fainted, and Dioscorus seeing that
his daughter was not dead, as he had thoui';ht,
drew his own sword and decapitated her. On
the consummation of this atrocious act, it is
stated that lightning and thunder burst forth
with terrible intensity, destroying Dioscorus in
its fury.
The head of Saint Barbara may be found
preserved as a relic for veneration in the temple
of All Saints at Rome. She died on December
4th, A. D. 235.
It may be added that besides being the pat-
roness of Santa Barbara, she is also claimed as
the patron saint of artillery soldiers, and archi-
tects.
All good Barbarenos will be glad to learn
that their City does not derive its name from a
29
AND M O N T E C I T O
St Barbara.
(From Mediaeval Print)
mythological source, but from an illustrious and
invincible Christian martyr whose name appears
in the records of the Church.
}* oundation oj Presidio by Padre Junipero Serra
Tt is somewhat remarkable that so attractive
a country should have remained a terra incog-
21
SANTA BARBARA
nita for more than a century and a half -after the
voyage of Vizcaino, but Spain had a vast amount
of colonial territory at that time, and no gold or
silver had been discovered in California, which
would account for her neglect.
In 1767, however, the report that the Rus-
sians were coming down from the north to take
possession of Alta California, inspired the Span-
ish Government of Carlos III to attempt at once
the colonization of the country, and the convers-
ion and civilization of the Indians. The Jesuits
had taken up this work in Lower California, but
the members of the Order having been expelled
by the king's decree from Spain and all her
American colonies, the Franciscans were select-
ed, and by an agreement between the Spanish
Viceroy and the Superior General of the Fran-
ciscan Order, Padre Junipero Serra was ap-
pointed to have charge of the work.
Miguel Jose Serra, who may with propriety
be called the Apostle of California, was born of
humble parents on the Island of Majorca in the
Mediterranean on Nov. 24, 1713. Like the
prophet Samuel, he was dedicated to the priest-
hood from infancy, and having finished his stud-
ies in the Convent of San Bernardino, he wished
to devote himself to the immediate service of
God, and went to Palma, the capital of the prov-
ince, to acquire the higher learning necessary for
the priesthood. At his earnest request, he was
22
AND M O N T E C I T O
received into the Order of St. Francis, at the age
of sixteen, taking the name ''Junipero," after a
favorite disciple of St. Francis, and, at the end
of one year's probation, made his religious pro-
Padre Junipero Serra
fession, Sept. 15, 1731. Having finished his
studies in philosophy and theology, he soon ac-
quired a high repuation as a writer and orator,
and his services were sought in evcrv direction;
23
SANTA BARBARA
but while enjoying these distinctions at home, his
heart was set on his long-projected mission to the
heathen of the New World. He sailed from
Cadiz for America August 28, 1749, and landed
at Vera Cruz, whence he went to the City of
Mexico, joined the College of San Fernando,
and was made President of the Missions of
Sierra Gorda and San Saba.
In 1767 he was made President of the Mis-
sions which had been established in Lower Cali-
fornia, on the expulsion of the Jesuits. On his
appointment, he immediately entered upon act-
ive duties, and proceeded to carry out his grand
design of the civilization of the Pacific Coast.
Under instructions from the Viceroy of Mexico,
the vessels San Carlos, San Antonio and San Jose
were fitted out and despatched to California; of
these, the San Jose was lost, the San Antonio
reached San Diego on the 11th of April 1769,
and the San Carlos on May 1st, the crews having
been well nigh exhausted by starvation, thirst,
and scurvy.
The plan for the occupation of the new terri-
tory contemplated forts -at San Diego and Mon-
terey, as the extremities of the domain, with a
settlement midway between, as headquarters for
the colony. In pursuance of this plan. Padre
Serra in July 1769 established a Presidio and
Mission at San Diego, and then sailed north to
perform a similar duty at Monterey. He, how-
24
AND M O N T E C I T O
ever, failed to locate the place and returned to
San Diego. After receiving some reinforce-
ments, he again made an effort to reach the site
of Monterey, which was successful, and there
established the northern outpost of the colony.
While selecting Monterey and San Diego as the
military outposts. Padre Serra had constantly in
mind the establishment of a central settlement,
and for this purpose had selected Santa Barbara
for many reasons, among them being the gentle
character of the natives, the wonderful salubrity
(f the climate, the transcendent beauty of the lo-
cation, the fertility of the soil, and the safe har-
bor afforded by its sheltered position on the
Channel.
Gomez, who was connected with one of
Padre Serra's expeditions as a botanist and met-
eorologist, writes that he here found an abund-
ance of wild roses, and termed the place a ''de-
lectable paradise."
It was not until about the middle of April,
1782, that the indefatigable Padre Serra was able
to secure the assistance he desired in order to
found the Presidio of Santa Barbara. With fifty
men commanded by Captain jose Francisco Or-
tega and accompanied by Governor Neve, he left
San Buenaventura (now Ventura) and traveled
i'long the Indian coast trails, which were the
only roads existing thefi. A few Indian villages
were passed, but when the pioneers crossed Rin-
25
SANTA BARBARA
con Creek and entered the fertile valley of Car-
pinteria these villages were more numerous. At
last they reached the lagoon which formerly ex-
isted in the lower part of this city, and here a
spot was selected for the Presidio, on ground
now bounded by Canon Perdido, Garden, Fig-
ueroa, and Anacapa Streets, but every trace of
this early settlement has now been swept away.
On the birthday of Saint Barbara, April 21st,
1782, under the direction of Padre Serra, the
simple ceremonies took place. The soldiers clad
in leathern waistcoats and leggings, their faces
bronzed by exposure, were assembled, under the
command of Governor Neve and Captain Or-
tega, and from the many villages throughout the
valleys the Indians had come, impelled by curi-
osity and awe; and it must have been with great
interest that they watched the newcomers and
wondered at their purpose.
Padre Junipero, clad in alb and stole, stood
in a hastily constructed chapel of brush before
a roughly hewn table used as an altar. The sol-
diers, under the command of Governor Neve and
Captain Ortega, then formed in a square, and
having laid aside their shields and lances, knelt
with bared heads while the reverend padre with
uplifted hands invoked the blessings of heaven
upon the congregation and their undertaking.
After the dedication of the spot, the cross was
raised, mass was celebrated, and an impressive
26
AND MONTECITO
sermon preached. With these simple ceremon-
ies was founded the Presidio of Santa Barbara;
and a record of the events, in the handwriting of
Junipero Serra -and signed by him, is pre-
served among archives of the parochial church.
An enclosure about seventy-five yards square
was then made of palisades, in the form of a
18 <
>18
iss.
11
— t—
9 ■■
■ 3-
.3..
..3..
43
3-
-■9
-9
• .9..
■9-
..9-
FLAZ/L
..9..
•9-.
.3.
- 3-
3-
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. 3-
-:$..
OnpiEOyi
13
H
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18
Legend of Santa
1 — Entrada Principal.
2 — Almacenes.
3 — Living Quarters
4 — Traverse.
5 — Church.
6 — Sacristy.
7 — Ensign's Quarters.
8 — Comandante's Quarters.
9 — Family Houses.
10 — Padre's Room.
Barbara Presidio, 1788.
II — Sergeant's Quarters.
12 — Guard Room.
13 — Corrals, Kitchen, etc.
14 — Comandante's Corral.
15 — Chaplain's Corral.
16 — Western Bastion.
17 — Eastern Bastion.
18 — Corrals.
19 — Oficinas.
27
SANTA BARBARA
stockade, enclosed by a wall of stone and adobe
twelve or fourteen feet high, cannon being
mounted at strategical points for the defense of
the Presidio, the heaviest in a position command-
ing the harbor. Within were the barracks,
store-house, a church for the soldiers, and the
comandante's residence. On the outside was a
trench twelve feet wide and six feet deep, the soil
thrown out from the ditch serving as an out-
work. The Presidio was entered by two gates,
open during the day and closed at night. The
buildings were well constructed of adobe and
mortar, resting on good foundations, the main
entrance which faced the channel being twenty
feet in width.
The plan will give a better idea of the con-
struction than words, although it must be remem-
bered that straight lines were not followed as the
plan would imply, the buildings presenting a
very irregular appearance, which added to the
picturesqueness of the Presidio, and was in keep-
ing with the surroundings.
The soldiers on guard wore, over their uni-
form, a suit of buckskin like a coat of mail reach-
ing almost to their feet, which was supposed to
be impervious to Indian arrows. The horses also
were encased in leathern armor, like those of the
knights of old. If there was fighting to be done,
a leathern buckler, worn on the soldier's left arm,
was added to ward off arrows or thrusts from a
28
AND MONTECITO
spear; while defending themselves with sabre
and lance, firearms were useless. In addition to
the duty of guarding the coast, four or five men,
under a sergeant, accompanied the padres when
they went abroad on any business.
The Indians were friendly, and through their
chief, Yanonali, who controlled thirteen ranch-
erias (Indian villages or settlements) details of
them were secured to assist the soldiers in the
work of building, the natives being paid for their
labor by gifts of food and clothing. Irrigation
works were constructed, consisting of a general
reservoir made of sand and cement, and arrange-
ments made for conducting water to the Presidio.
It has been said that the soldiers were usually of
an idle class, although some of them who had
families cultivated small gardens, which added
to their support. After the erection of buildings,
the necessary attention to flocks and herds, and
the cultivation of the soil, the soldiers soon
learned to employ the Indians for every service
except military duty.
Captain Jose Ortega was in command of the
Presidio for two years after its founding, and
was succeeded by Lieutenant Felipe de Goycoe-
chea.
Historians and (nhers have located the center
of the Presidio as having been situated at the
corner of Canon Perdido and Santa Barbara
Streets.
20
SANTA BARBARA
Establishment of Santa Barbara Mission
It was the expectation of Padre Serra, who
was entirely absorbed in the advancement of the
Church, to found the Mission of Santa Barbara
as soon as temporary dwellings were provided
for the soldiers, but he was unable to secure the
co-operation of the Governor, who felt that their
position among unknown tribes would be inse-
cure until the fortifications and buildings of the
Presidio were at least partly completed. Find-
ing, to his great disappointment, that nothing
could be done then towards carrying out his
long-cherished plan to found here his grandest
Mission, Padre Serra left the garrison in charge
of Padre Dumetz, and started for the Mission of
San Carlos at Monterey, on foot, as was his cus-
tom, although he was at that time nearly seventy
years of age. Arriving there, he rested for a lit-
tle while, and then began a visitation of all the
Missions that he had founded, confirming the
Indians who had been instructed and baptized.
On the 1 8th of August, Padre Palou ( recalled
to Monterey from San Francisco, found Serra
suffering from trouble of the chest, and from a
recurrence of his old trouble of the leg. He found
him distressed also by rumors of an impending
displacement of the Franciscans in Alta Califor-
nia by the Dominicans. On the 27th, fever su-
pervened, and at the church, attended by Indians
and cuirassed men, the Father-President received
30
AND MONTECITO
the last Sacrament. On the 28th, the fever
increasing, he was visited in the morning by
Captain Jose Canizares, whose ship lay at anchor
in the bay; and between one and two o'clock in
the afternoon, having drawn about him his cloak
and composed himself on his bed of planks, he
resigned his spirit. His funeral, which took
place on the 29th in the presence of mariners,
soldiers, and neophytes, was conducted with sol-
emn pomp. The body, covered with roses of
•Castille, and attended by guardsmen with light-
ed tapers, was borne amid chanting about the
plaza to the Mission of San Carlos. September
1-, Padre Serra's garments were cut up, and dis-
tributed among the devout as amulets.
His death further delayed the founding, as
his successor Padre Palou, was advanced in
years, and also desired to visit Mexico in order
to publish a biography of Padre Serra. Conse-
quently it was not until the appointment of Padre
Palou's successor in 1785 that anything was done.
This successor was Padre Fermin F. de
Lasuen, and he decided that his first official act
should be the carrying out of the cherished wish
of Padre Serra.
The Channel Missions, San Buenaventura
and Santa Barbara, were intended bv the Gov-
ernment to be modeled after the Colorado pu-
eblo Missions, that is, the Indians were not to be
tnken from their ranchcrias, exccptiiig a few at
31
SANTA BARBARA
a time, if they could be persuaded to live at the
Missions, and the Padres were to confine them-
selves solely to their religious and mental in-
struction. The reason given for this was the
small amount of land under cultivation in pro-
portion to the number of inhabitants, and the
danger of uprising of the dense population in
case any attempt was made to break up or re-
arrange the distribution of it. This plan, al-
though a good one, meant the complete over-
throw of the Mission system, and the Padres had
too much influence in Mexico and Spain to per-
mit it to succeed; the government of these two
missions, therefore, differed in no respect from
all the rest.
In October, 1786 all was ready and Governor
Pedro Pages wrote Padre Lasuen that the ma-
terials for the important event were on hand at
Santa Barbara; the latter replied that he felt he
would more fully carry out the w^ishcs of Padre
Serra if he waited until Saint Barbara's day, the
4th of December; Padre Serra had been espec-
ially devoted to this virgin martyr, as he firmly
believed it was through her intercession that he
had once been saved from immediate death by
shipwreck. Padre Lasuen was also desirous that
the patroness of the new Mission should be the
fairest saint in all the calender.
Padre Lasuen, with two other missionaries,
started for Santa Barbara in November 1786 ar-
32
AND MOxNTECITO
living there on the 22nd of that month. They
looked the ground over thoroughly, and finally
decided to erect the Mission on a plateau about
Franciscan Friar — From an Old Print.
a mile north west of the Presidio. Comandante
Goycoechea wanted the Mission erected nearer
the Presidio ,and wrote Governor Fages to that
33
SANTA BARBARA
effect, but Padre Lasuen and his associates dis-
regarded his wishes, as they had full authority to
please themselves as to site, and went on with
their preparations. It is more than likely that
the main reason for building the mission some
distance from the Presidio was the desire of the
Padres to keep their Indian converts free from
tlie influence of the soldiers, whose morals were
not of a character to afford a good example to
the childlike and imitative native.
The location finally selected had a plentiful
supply of water from what is now known as Mis-
sion Creek, but which was then called the ''Ar-
royo Pedregosa." On the site were a large num-
ber of boulders which led to the name "Tayna-
yam" being given it by the natives, and ''El Ped-
regosa" by the Sp-aniards, both terms signifying
"stony ground" or "place of stones."
Everything being in readiness for the founda-
tion. Padre Lasuen and his coadjutors consecrat-
ed the ground to its holy use.
Governor Pages, on receiving the letter from
the Comandante referred to above, decided to
visit Santa Barbara and personally inform him-
self on the situation. He arrived ten days after
the founding, and was so well satisfied with the
selection of the site that he at once ordered a hut
to be built beside the cross, in which mass was
celebrated and a sermon preached by Padre An-
tonio Paterna.
34
AND xMONTECITO
The entry in the records of the parochial
church relating to this event was written and
signed by Padre Lasuen, President, and reads: —
''Commenced on the appropriate day of the holy
titular patroness, December 4th A. D. 1786. On
the afternoon of which day, no higher solemnity
having been permitted, I, the undersigned, Fr.
Fermin Franco de Lasuen, President of the xMis-
sions of said and by said College Apostolic, pro-
ceeded accompanied by three other missionaries,
from the Presidio to this place, blessed water and
thereupon dedicated the land to God, our Lord,
and in like manner blessed a large cross which
wc raised and venerated. We then recited the
Litany of the Saints, chanting the Antiphone,
with a prayer to our holy patroness. His Excel-
lency the Governor arrived on the I4th of the
above named month and year and removed the
restraining order imposed upon us and conclud-
ed to remain and witness the founding already
begun in this place. On the 16th, after prepar-
ing a brush hut near the cross, I, in the presence
of the Governor, sang Mass first in this spot, in
which the Rev. Fr. Apostolic Antonio Paterna
also officiated and likewise delivered a short ad-
dress on the subject. May it be for the higher
honor and glory of God, the exaltation of His
most holy name and the good of souls."
Owing to the lateness of the season no build-
ings were commenced until the spring of 1787,
j3
SANTA BARBARA
when a house for the missionaries, about 15 by 45
feet in size was erected; also a chapel about 15
by 40 feet, a servants' room, granary, house for
unmarried women and one for unmarried men.
irhese buildings were of adobe with walls about
three feet thick, having roofs of heavy rafters to
which were tied long poles or canes. On these
was spread soft clay covered with a thatch of
straw. These roofs were only temporary until
tiles could be made, which was done the follow-
ing year.
■ •••- "W^ W«- *'♦«,^ <•*
u
AND MONTECITO
PART II
History of The Santa Barbara Mission —
Spanish Supremacy — Mexican Occupation
— American Acquisition — Early Days in
Santa Barbara.
T THE time of founding the
Mission, large tracts of land
were acquired, which were nec-
essary to support the Mission
settlement. Some of this land
was divided into ranches to be
used for herding stock, and for
growing various crops. In ad-
dition to wheat, barley, corn,
peas, beans, etc., grapes and
other fruits and vegetable!
were raised, all under the supervision of the
padres.
By the end of 1787, one year from the found-
ing, one hundred and eighty-five Indians had
been gathered at the Mission. The natives had
at first looked upon the padres with bewildered
gaze, but their doubts soon subsided as thej
found the missionaries so kindly, and sometime!
they came with gifts for the workers. These at-
tentions were reciprocated on the part of the
padres by presents of sweetmeats, toys and calico.
37
SANTA BARBARA
Thus they gradually became friendly, and when
the padres asked them to assist in the work they
were doing, the natives consented and were re-
warded with more gifts.
Little by little more restraint was imposed
on them ; they were not allowed to leave the Mis-
sion, except for occasional visits, limited to six
weeks a year for each one, and were duly in-
structed, not only in the religious tenets of the
Church, but in civilized methods of labor and
the use of tools. The trades taught them were
those of mason, carpenter, blacksmith, farmer,
miller, shoemaker, tailor, and last but not least,
the art of cooking. The making of adobe bricks
was also taught them, and later, how to make
roof tiles. The girls and women learned to spin
yarn, weave cloth, and make clothing. They
proved quite adept in acquiring these mechani-
cal arts and before the Mission had been found-
ed ten years, natives skilled in every ordinary
line of industry were to be found there ; such was
the patience of the padres. The comforts of
civilized life, the abundant and regular food,
soon reconciled the Indians to the restraint of
being confined to a certain settlement, and by
preference, they came to dwell with the mis-
sionaries.
At first they were placed in houses built for
the purpose near the Mission. These dwellings
were arranged in regular order facing roadways,
38
AND xMONTECITO
■.■"it. * ~ '
ji^-^f-
Peaceful Days at tl\e Mission.
J>
SANTA BARBARA
and when a road had a certain number of inhab-
itants the padres instituted a sort of local govern-
ment for them, and a mayor, or alcalde, was ap-
pointed to have jurisdiction over his respective
road. Rules were adopted for sanitation, order,
and discipline. It was the policy of the padres
to settle the natives finally on a parcel of land;
this was held out as a reward to the faithful and
industrious. Farming implements and stock
were provided by which these allotments might
be cultivated, and the native become a self sup-
porting farmer.
That the Indian might not be defrauded by
white traders doing business with him, the pad-
res selected certain conscientious persons who
alone were authorized to have dealings w^ith
them. There is no doubt that the system organ-
ized by the padres for dealing with the Indians
not only demonstrated their disinterested labor,
but their philanthropic spirit and warm relig-
ious faith and zeal.
The Indians were divided into squads of
laborers. At sunrise the Angelus was rung, and
mass held in the church, after which came the
morning meal and the work of the day began.
From eleven until two o'clock there was a recess
or siesta, during which the principal meal of the
day was served. In the evening, an hour before
sunset, the Angelus was again rung, and the In-
dians then had supper and attended evening de-
40
AND xMONTECITO
votions, after which they were left to their own
diversions, consisting of games and dancing.
The relation of the padres to the Indians was
paternal; they labored to develop the moral in-
stinct and taste for labor, and succeeded in teach-
ing them the main principles of religion in a
manner adapted to their comprehension. They
encouraged faithful work in the fields by dis-
tributing gifts among the laborers when the sea-
son of gathering crops was ended, and in teach-
ing the Indians obedience, persuasion rather than
coercion was generally used, which resulted in
their condition being much superior to that
usual with a subject race.
The original Mission edifice proving too
small for the worshippers, it was enlarged in
1788 to 15 by 90 feet; also other buildings were
erected, including a large granary. By the end
01 that year, four hundred and twenty-five In-
dians were receiving instruction, and thereafter
such was the rate of progress that the church
again proved too small, and in 1792 a still larger
and more substantial adobe structure was com-
menced, 125 by 25 feet, with a sacristy 15 by 27
feet. This church had a brick portico, was well
plastered on its exterior and interior walls, and
roofed with red tiles. It was finished the fol-
lowing year, at which time the Indians under the
care of the padres had increased to five hundred
arid forty-nine.
41
SANTA BARBARA
In this year also occurred the death of Padre
Paterna, who had assisted Padre Lasuen in
founding the Mission, and who had been ap-
pointed its first priest.
The growth of the settlement continued with-
out any check, new houses, granaries and shops
being erected from time to time, until at the end
of the century (1800) there were fifty-one dwel-
lings, and the native population had increased to
eight hundred and sixty-four. There were thirty-
one houses built in 1801, the same number in
1802, and a tannery. In the latter year, the Mis-
sion possessed 2100 head of cattle, 9082 sheep,
642 horses, and 58 mules. The crops for that
year amounted to 2876 centals (one hundred
pounds) of wheat, 40 centals of barley, 40 cen-
tals of corn, and 10 centals of garbanzo (chick
peas).
In 1806, the reservoir northeast of the Mis-
sion was constructed, and the following year a
dam was built -across Mission Creek, about a
mile and a half above the Mission. The aque-
duct was constructed of stone and mortar, fol-
lowing the contour of the canyon walls, and was
a most admirable piece of work; it delivered the
water to the mill reservoir, and from there it
passed into the mill by a gate, from whence, after
performing its work of grinding the grain, it
passed into the large reservoir. Consequently,
no water was wasted in the development of the
42
AND MONTECITO
power necessary to grind the wheat and the corn.
In 1808 the stone fountain in the Mission
yard was built, and in 1812 improvements were
commenced on the church building, which were
never completed, as on December 21st and 22nd
occurred the severest earthquake shocks that this
valley ever experienced; these so injured the
walls of the church that it was considered wiser
to build a new church than attempt the repair of
the old one in its shattered condition. The tak-
ing down of the old church and the erection of
other buildings occupied the years 1813 and
1814, and the new church was commenced in
1815.
This time the church was built of sandstone;
its walls are nearly six feet through, and to guard
against any future earthquake, heavy stone
buttresses were constructed at each corner and
at intervals along the sides. Its length is 165
feet, width 42 feet, and height outside 30 feet.
It was dedicated on September 10th, 1820, and is
the most substantially built Mission in Califor-
nia, which together with the constant labor of
the padres, accounts for its splendid state of pre-
servation at the present day, when most of the
other Missions are but shadows of what they
formerly were.
In a niche over the west door stands a statue
of Saint Barbara, sculptured out of the native
sandstone. At each angle and at the apex of the
43
SANTA BARBARA
door are statues of Faith, Hope, and Charity,
their almost obliterated features showing the
ravages of time.
The double towers, an outstanding feature
of this Mission, are thirty feet high, and are a
solid mass of stone and cement twenty feet
square. A narrow winding stone stairway leads
through the left tower to the belfry, where, as in
olden times, the bells call the devout to worship.
The architecture is of the same general type
as that adopted by the Franciscans for all the
more important Missions, and has become a
style in itself. It is a composite of Roman, By-
zantine, Moorish and Spanish, modified by the
limitations of its adapters in having to rely on the
unskilled efforts of the Indians. Of late years
the. ''Mission style" has become a generic name
in structural designs for all kinds of buildings,
from palatial mansions to railway depots.
Adjoining the church on the southwest is a
large stone structure 36x240 feet, tw^o stories
high. The facade is supported by eighteen
arches of Roman design, under which is a paved
corridor upon which the cloisters open.
In an angle at the back of the dwelling formed
by its junction with the church, is a beautiful
garden, dedicated to the private use of the mem-
bers of the Franciscan Order, and from which
women are rigidly excluded; only one or two ex-
ceptions, in the case of prominent personages,
44
AND M O xN T E C I T O
have been made to this rule. A view of this
garden may, however, be secured from the
church tower.
The east garden is part of the old burying
ground, and here lie the remains of more than
4,000 Indians. In it are also strong concrete
Corridor of the Mission
vaults, in which are buried the Franciscans who
have died at the Mission. Near the center of the
cemetery is a large Crucifix, embowered in a
niche of cypress trees, and there are also many
rare plants and trees, as well as roses, geraniums,
and other (lowers.
4S
SANTA BARBARA
The interior of the church at once arrests the
visitor's attention. The length of the nave, ex-
clusive of the choir, is 138 feet, and the breadth,
inside measurement, thirty feet. On the ceiling
are some very interesting cedar wood carvings
and designs of original Indian work, Thor's
Thunder Bird, or Winged Lightning, occurring
many times.
Besides the High Altar, which is 12 feet
wide and 15 feet high, there are tw^o chapels and
two side altars. The two former, which are near
the entrance, are in small oratories built in the
solid walls, which are here twelve feet thick.
The one on the right is dedicated to Our Lady
of Sorrows, and over it is a very large and ancient
painting representing Hell. The chapel oppo-
site is dedicated to St. Francis, founder of the
Franciscan Order, and over this is another very
old painting representing Purgatory. On the
right side, next to the chapel of Our Lady oi
Sorrows, is an altar dedicated to St. Anthony,
and beyond that one to Our Lady of Guadalupe,
over w^hich is a fine oil painting. The altar on
the left side is dedicated to St. Joseph. The
fourteen Stations of the Cross are very old oil
paintings brought from Spain in 1793, and the
four large oil paintings on the walls were also
brought at the same time. The first, on the right,
represents the Assumption, and that opposite the
Crucifixion. The picture on the right, inside
46
AND M O N T E C I T O
the sanctuary rail, represents Our Lady of the
Scapula, while that on the left is a copy of 'The
Old Arch, Mission Canyon
Last Judgment,'' the original of which hangs
in the Escurial at Madrid, Spain. On the right
side of the altar is an oil painting of "The De-
47
SANTA BARBARA
scent from the Cross," and on the left a life-size
picture of Jesus. Over the altar is -a statue of
St. Barbara, while at the back of the altar arc
statues of the Virgin and St. Joseph.
The library, which is situated in the cloisters
adjoining the church, with windows opening
upon the arched corridor, contains a valuable
collection of old books sent from different Mis-
sions when they were abandoned, among which
are some remarkably fine Spanish manuscripts,
containing various records. There are also a
set of surveyors instruments and a telescope,
both gifts from the Emperor Maxmilian to Pad-
re Romo, Superior of the Mission from 1872 to
1884.
In the curio room, which adjoins the library,
in a glass case, are three large volumes of parch-
ment containing the principal offices of the
church as recited by the Missionaries; these vol-
umes represent years of labor, the lettering
which is large and richly ornamented, being all
traced by hand. Also in this room are preserved
the Maniple, Stole, and Burse belonging to
Padre Junipero Serra, and many other relics, in-
cluding statues, vases ,and two chandeliers made
by the Indians, a writing set belonging to the
first Bishop of California, one of the first Stein-
way pianos ever seen in California, a brass bound
walnut writing desk, and chests containing many
robes and vestments, made of the richest mater-
48
c
U
a
o
' in
It)
AND M O N T E C I T O
ials. There is also a case containing several
volumes of ancient music sung by the Indians,
the notes being in different colors, an idea orig-
inating with one of the Padres, after he had tried
many other ways of teaching the Indians to sing.
The Mission continued to prosper, and grow
in wealth and influence, and in 1821 the records
show that 4288 Indians had been baptized, and
there were 947 settled families of Indians and
483 families of whites. Of stock there were
27,432 head of different kinds, and 14,000 trees
had been planted.
In 1821 Mexico became independent, and
California was proclaimed a Mexican depend-
ency. It -at once became involved in the many
pronunciamentos and rebellions that character-
ized Mexican history dow^n to the time of the oc-
cupation of Califorflia by the Americans in 1846.
Hardly had the Mission been completed than
the work of persecution began. In 1822 the
Mexican Government, jealous of the power held
by the Franciscans, passed their first law aimed
at their destruction, and from this time on, with
short intervals of comparative prosperity, they
declined in authority and as producers of wealth.
Their Indians were set free, villages depopulat-
ed, revenues confiscated, and the Mission land
parcelled out among Mexicans.
Early in 1824, a revolt occurred amon^ the
Indians, due to discontent and the complaint
4f
SANTA BARBARA
that they had to work to feed the soldiers, noth-
ing being paid them for their labor, aggravated
by many petty acts of injustice and cruelty on the
part of the latter, which might have proved for-
midable had a strong leader been in command.
The prime cause of the outbreak was the punish-
ment of a neophyte by order of Corporal Cota at
Santa Ynez. A conspiracy was formed among
the Indians for revenge, and broke out on Satur-
day afternoon, February 21st in an attack on the
Mission, which was repulsed, although consid-
erable damage was done to the buildings. On
the same afternoon, the fugitives from Santa
Ynez joined the rebels at Purisima and attacked
the Mission there, which after keeping the Indi-
ans at bay all night, was obliged, owing to lack
of ammunition, to surrender in the morning.
Four soldiers who had arrived at the Mission on
their way to Los Angeles, and being unaware of
the revolt, were killed.
Word was sent early on Sunday morning by
the Santa Ynez rebels to the Indians of Santa
Barbara that they should arm themselves, which
they did, and formed in front of the Mission.
Padre Ripoll, upon finding the crowd of excited
Indians all armed with bows and arrows, par-
leyed with them, and tried to dissuade them from
committing any overt act. They listened re-
spectfully, but still appeared uneasy owing to the
presence of three soldiers armed with muskets;
so
AND MONTECITO
seeing this, Padre Ripoll invited the crowd to go
with him to the guard house, and there handed
to the soldiers an order from Comandante de la
Guerra instructing them to withdraw to th'
Presidio. As they were marching off, one of the
Indians exclaimed ''Let them leave their weap-
ons behind," and some of the neophytes tried to
snatch the guns from the soldiers, two of the
three who resisted being slightly wounded by a
cutlass.
Padre Ripoll accompanied the soldiers to the
Presidio, but Comandante de la Guerra went
with a body of troops to punish the Indians at the
Mission; thev were received with a vollev from
firearms and a shower of arrows, and after a
skirmish lasting for three hours, the soldiers
were ordered to retire. It is related by a local
descendent of one of those present that de la
Guerra retired from his attack on the Indians
due to one of their number through force of
liabit having ascended to the belfry in the Mis-
sion tower and rung the bell for the noonday
meal; the Comandante then retired to the Pres-
idio for dinner, which must have been particu-
larly good, since he forgot that a fight was on
until advised by one of his soldiers that the Indi-
ans had retired to the mountains, taking with
them all the clothes they could carry from the
sacked warehouses of the Mission. He then sent
ten soldiers there, \\\\(\ on the following Tuesday
SI
SANTA BARBARA
another squad of soldiers arrived, both parties
committing some very cruel murders on the few
aged Indians who had not been able to get away,
in addition to breaking open and sacking the In-
dian houses, and also taking from the storehouse
at the Mission anything that pleased their fancy.
In the meantime the fugitives from Santa
Barbara, with a few from other Missions, re-
treated to the Tulares, and eighty men were sent
to bring them back. Several skirmishes took
place during i^pril, but eventually the soldiers
returned to Santa Barbara.
Another expedition was then organized
against the rebels, and this, composed of sixty-
three soldiers and a field piece, set out from
Santa Barbara on June 2nd, a detachment of fifty
men with a cannon also starting from Monterey
at the same time, the two parties uniting six d-ays
later on the plain of the Tulares. Padre Ripoll
had been requested to go with the expedition, but
declined as he did not wish the Indians to see him
with the soldiers, but was eventually persuaded
to do so.
The Indians who were encamped at San Em-
gidio, now expressed themselves as willing to re-
turn, but were afraid to give up their weapons
lest they be punished; the padres and the com-
mander, however, assured them that all would be
forgotten, and they at length accompanied the
52
AND MONTECITO
soldiers back to Santa Barbara, where by the end
of June, all was again quiet and peaceful.
A few of the Indians had separated them-
selves from the main body and fled to the moun-
tains to join a chief called Valerio (for whom
one of the streets in Santa Barbara is named)
and formed a band of outlaws who sallied forth
from time to time to avenge themselves on their
persecutors. Some remarkable caves in the vic-
inity of the San Marcos Pass are accredited by
tradition as having been the resort of this famous
chief and his men, and certain rough paintings
found there are believed to have been the work
of those resolute and independent mountaineers.
Padre Ripoll left Santa Barbara in 1827 at
the close of the ten years for which he had volun-
teered, as he felt he could no longer remain to
witness the outrages being perpetrated on the
Christian Indians.
Despite the many protests and efforts of the
Franciscan padres to prove that the Indians were
not fit subjects for secularization, the first law
in this connection passed the Mexican Congress
on August 17, 1833, and other measures soon fol-
lowed. Of the ten California Missions secular-
ized in 1834, Santa Barbara was one. The Cali-
fornians themselves, however, were the prime
instigators of the ruin of the Missions, -as they
appear to have compelled Governor Figueroa,
then a very sick man, to put into effect the dc-
53
SANTA BARBARA
crees of August 9th and Nov. 4th 1834, notwith-
standing the fact that the Mexican Government
had expressly forbidden this.
Also, the Mexican leaders and politicians
looked with envious eyes on the rich Californi-a
missions; to secure this wealth they had recourse
to the subterfuge of inciting the Indians to rebel-
lion, and then holding the padres responsible.
In this way they w^re eventually able to secure
the passing of the above-mentioned decrees,
which practically turned the Mission properties
over to the tender mercies of greedy government
officials. In the majority of cases, everything
of value was taken, and the lands and stock dis-
tributed among the Indians, to subsequently be
taken from them when a suitable opportunity
presented itself, the gentle training of the padres
rendering the Indians quite unfit to trade or
barter with the wily officials, who soon defraud-
ed them of the property turned over to them.
Owing to the fortunate circumstance that the
Franciscan Superior in Mexico City had sent to
Santa Barbara some priests who were natives of
Mexico and not Spanish, this Mission suffered
less than the others, for it was not sold, and re-
mained in the hands of the Franciscans, who
never allowed the light upon its altar to go out.
The Mission lost many of its secular possessions
and some of its buildings fell into decay, yet the
church and cloisters were preserved, and other
54
AND MONTECITO
Missions, which were sacked, books and records
burned and valuable old manuscripts used for
gun wadding, sent what treasures they could save
to Santa Barbara for safe keeping.
From 1786, the date of founding, to 1834,
when secularization took place, the Santa Bar-
bara Mission records show that there were
5,679 baptisms, 1,534 marriages, 4,046 deaths. In
1803 was recorded the largest population, name-
ly, 1792. The largest number of stock of all
kinds was 16,090 in 1809.
An inventory of the Mission made in March
1834, by the newly appointed Commissionado,
showed: credits $14,953; buildings $22, ,936;
furniture, tools, goods in storehouse, vineyards,
orchards, corrals and animals $19,690; church
$16,000; sacristy, $1,500; church vestments $4.-
576; library $152; ranchos $30,961 ; with a debt
to be deducted of $1,000.
In 1839, Pope Gregory XVI elevated Cali-
fornia to the dignity of a bishopric, and appoint-
ed Padre Francisco Diego Garcia, a Mexican
Franciscan, to the See.
Upon his arrival in 1842, Bishop Garcia
made Santa Barbara the headquarters of his
Episcopal See. Like the majority of govern-
ments, that of Mexico failed to keep its promises
to the Bishop for the betterment of the Mission
and his diocese, and alter some years of useless
protest, his grief and mortification of spirit wore
5S
SANTA BARBARA
him out, and he died in 1846, being laid to rest
near the epistle side of the main altar.
In 1843 an effort was made to restore the
Mission system in Santa Barbara; it was, how-
ever, too late, as the conditions under w^hich the
Mission system could exist had been completely
changed, and could not be restored. Debt cov-
ered nearly all the Mission properties, and their
incomes were not sufficient to maintain public
worship and care for the Indians, who, generally,
were in a very sad condition.
In 1844, according to Padre Duran's report,
he kept at Santa Barbara barely 300 Indians, and
these with the greatest difficulty. Mr. Hart-
nell, the official visitor of Missions, reported
that the Missions were almost entirely in ruins,
and could never be brought back to their former
state.
Under a proclamation dated October 28,
1845, regarding the sale of nine Missions and
the leasing of the others, including Santa Bar-
bara, the property of the latter was leased to
Nicholas A. Den and Daniel Hill for an annual
rental of $1,200, the lease covering all the build-
ings of the Mission excepting the church and
cloisters, and this small sum was all that was
available to support the Bishop, Padres, and such
of the Indians as were left. The inventoried
valuation was $20,843, and it comprised over
3,000 head of stock, the San Jose vineyard north
AND MONTECITO
ot Goleta (what is now known as the ''Sisters
Ranch"), the San Marcos Ranch in the Santa
Ynez Valley, and all the store houses, their con-
tents, the shops, vineyards, orchards, and the
tannery in the vicinity of the Mission.
The Mission Fountain
In 1846, Colonel John C. Fremont came over
the mountains by way of the San Marcos Pass,
while the Mexican defenders of Santa Barbara
waited in vain to meet him at the Gaviota Pass.
The city was taken without a fight, and thus
passed into the hands of the Americans. From
this time the Mission has been free from any of
the annoyances and persecutions which charac-
57
SANTA BARBARA
terized the Mexican rule, but its great estates
were gone and only a titiie of its once wide pos-
sessions remains.
After the death of Bishop Diego, Padre Gon-
zales Rubio became administrator of the w^hole
diocese of California, and in 1850 surrendered
control of same to the Right Reverend J. S. Ale-
many, who made him Vicar-General of the Dio-
cese. During this administration, in 1853, an
effort was made to establish a Franciscan college
for the education of young men for the priest-
hood in California, and Bishop Alemany recom-
mended Santa Barbara for that purpose. At a
meeting of the Franciscan Order held June 7,
1853, the Mission was selected as the place for
the establishment of an Apostolic college, and
Padre Jimeno of the College of San Fernando
was selected as the first President. He did not
consider the buildings at the Mission suitable
for the purpose, so with the approval of the Bish-
op he purchased a site in the City of Santa Bar-
bara, and commenced the erection of an edifice
at the corner of State and Figueroa Streets; this
was completed and dedicated on July 23rd, 1854,
under the title of the Apostolic College of the
Blessed Virgin of the Seven Sorrows.
Bishop Alemany's successor was the Right
Rev. Thaddeus Amat, who upon his arrival pre-
ferred to have his diocesan residence in the city
rather than at the Mission. After some negotia-
58
AND M O N T E C I 1^ O
tions, a transfer was made whereby the Mission
buildings, church, orchards, vineyards and other
property, passed to the perpetual use of the
Franciscan padres, while the church and resi-
dence in the city became the property of the
diocese.
Affairs at the Mission ran on with varying
interest until Padre Jose M. Romo, having re-
ceived letters patent as Guardian, arrived in
January, 1872. He found the college in need of
novices and later made a trip to Mexico in the
hope of being able to secure some candidates
there to help him carry on the work in Santa
Barbara. He was unable to do so and returned
quite discouraged. His experience now con-
vinced him that the College at Santa Barbara
was too isolated from other houses of the Order,
and not sufficiently strong of itself to make any
satisfactory progress. To remedy this, he wrote
CO the General of the Order setting forth the cir-
cumstances, and requesting him to have the Mis-
sion and College annexed to some eastern prov-
ince from which it might receive aid and mem-
bers. In response, a delegate named Padre Fer-
dinand Bergmeyer was sent by the Genernl, and
upon his report being made, a decree was issued
changing the College from its independent state
and annexing it to the Province of the Sacred
Heart of Jesus, with IVovincial headi]uarters at
St. Louis. This decree was signed at Rome May
so
SANTA BARBARA
5th, 1885. The Mission was then placed in the
care of a Commissary who represented the Prov-
incial at St. Louis, and who, in connection with
the Council at the Mission decided all minor
matters that arose.
On December 4th, 1886, the centennial of the
foundation of the Mission was celebrated. The
citizens of Santa Barbara took a whole-souled
interest in the event, and a considerable sum of
money was raised for the proper observance of
this important anniversary. There was suffic-
ient left over after the celebration to make some
very necessary repairs to the front of the church
and arches of the church dwelling.
The connection with the Provincial House at
St. Louis proved very beneficial to the Mission.
New enthusiasm was infused into the work of the
padres, old buildings restored, and new onci
erected; this union, however, was dissolved about
1915, and Santa Barbara Mission is now the
mother-house of the Franciscan Province of San-
ta Barbara of the Pacific Coast, comprising the
states of California, Arizona, Oregon and Wash-
ington.
Although, perhaps unfortunately, much of
the influence of the mission system on the life of
California has passed away, yet the padres must
be given all credit for what they accomplished
in their own day. The Crusaders of old had aa
easy task compared to these paladins of the
6f
1 liijli \X'»II i)f ihr Mi»»i.)ii.
SANTA BARBARA
Cross, who came practically alone into an un-
known country, and introduced there what has
developed into modern civilization; they ruled
a very large native population with the help of
only a very small body of soldiers; they built up
an agricultural system which for many years was
the only source of food supply for the people of
Spanish California, and last but not least, they
formed the nucleus of communities which lived
their lives in serene contentment.
It was no uncommon occurrence for the Mis-
sion to purchase an entire cargo of goods from
American traders, and such were their known
resources, and the uniform punctuality and hon-
esty of the padres, that these cargoes were fre-
quently delivered to them with no other security
than their verbal promise to pay. Indeed, these
Franciscan padres, who entered this country clad
in their brown habits with sandals on their feet
and the cross in their hands, were men whose
equals in power, courage, and moral intrepidity,
it would be difficult to find in these days.
In the heydey of their power, one might have
looked from the Mission tower and beheld a
landscape covered with flocks and herds grazing
on the hills and in the valleys within his range of
vision ;orchards laden with fruits, vineyards pur-
ple with grapes, fields yellow with ripening
grain, and villages active with all the pursuits of
a widely varied industry would have lain at his
62
AND MONTECITO
feet. Mills, wherein the grain was converted
into meal and flour, tanyards where hundreds of
hides were made into leather, hand looms that
wove the wool of thousands of sheep into blank-
ets and cloth, buildings in which were manufac-
tured pottery of several kinds, would have spok-
en of the thrift and good management of the
padres. Fountains would have sparkled in the
"Sunshine, the limpid waters supplying them
flowing through aqueducts of stone from the
mountains, coursing its way to the statue of a
bear, through whose open mouth it gurgled with
never failing plenty into a reservoir of solid
masonry six feet wide and seventy feet long. The
cellars were filled w^ith good wine, the granaries
bursting with corn, and the gardens carpeted
with flowers.
How is the scene changed! Hill and valley
are as beautiful as ever, with the sweep of the
great ocean at their feet as steady and as strong.
Cattle still graze on the foot-hills and the liar-
vests still respond to the appeal of the laborer^
who sow and gather them; grapes and oranges
ripen in the sun, and flowers bloom in ever-in-
creasing profusion, but the glory of the Francis-
can has departed, and others reap what he has
sowfi. 'I'he Spaniard has been succeeded bv the
Mexican, the Mexican supplanteii by the Ameri-
can, and the Indian has vanished altogether from
this c(rast. In the valley, where the devout were
63
SANTA BARBARA
gathered by the beils in the old towers of the
Mission to a common worship in its chapel, now
rise the spires of many another church.
For a comprehensive account of the Mission
period of Californian history, the student is rec-
ommended to peruse the four interesting vol-
umes compiled by Padre Zephyrin Englehardt,
of the Franciscan Order.
Spanish Supremacy — 1796-1832
California under the regime of the Spaniards
dates from the arrival of Caspar de Portola, who
afterwards became its first Covernor, in 1769.
Owing to lack of supplies of all kinds, and es-
pecially foodstuffs, possession of the country was
almost given up on several occasions, in fact,
their straits were such that the soldiers had to
depend on the Indians for food, trading their few
ragged garments in exchange. The land and
64
AND MO xN T E C I r O
climate were well suited to agricultural wealth,
but the richest land cannot be developed without
men, animals, or machinery to do the work, since
the province lacked everything from a plough or
a smith's forge to a piece of cloth or a nail;
everything of this nature had to be imported
from New Spain (Mexico) by way oi San Bias.
One of the best narratives of this time is an ac-
count published by Portola at Madrid on Sept.
4th, 1773. It would appear that until after they
had passed the last Mission in Baja California,
the expedition experienced no hardships worth}
of mention, and although Portola took nearly all
the supplier in possession of the Mission, yet he
lacked sufficient to reach San Diego, and had to
resort to hunting and hshing, and his party had
to go without water for several days. Upon ar-
rival at San Diego, they learned of the horrors ot
the voyage of the other half of the expedition
who came by sea.
A meeting was held, when it was deciticd to
send back the San Antonio to San Bla< for sup
plies and men, leaving the San (^irlos and the
sick at San Diego, while Portola marched in
search of Monterey. He took with him the small
number of "skeletons" whom the scurvy, thirst,
and hunger had spared, and who were suffic-
iently strong for the march. In his narrative,
Portola remarked that the country was composed
oi rocks, underbrush, and rugged mountains ct)v
65
SANTA BARBARA
ered with snow; moreover, he and his men did
not know where they were, and their food sup-
plies had given out. They almost felt certain
that they had reached Monterey, and yet, such
was their hunger, that they resolved to return to
San Diego, eating on their way, twelve of the
mules. To use Portola's quaint phrase, literally
translated, they arrived "smelling of mules."
The San Antonio, which had sailed for San
Bias in July 1769, did not return to San Diego
until late in March, 1770, most of its crew having
perished from scurvy, but despite this fact, Por-
tola and his men derived great benefit from the
cargo of maize, flour, and rice, which they ate
with avidity, as a change from the geese and fish
upon which they had had to subsist for over two
months.
It is said that Portola was about to abandon
Alta California but was prevailed upon by Padre
Junipero Serra to delay his departure with the
result that the San Antonio was sighted the very
day before Portola planned to leave. There is
no doubt Portola was not enthusiastic over the
new country especially after his forced mule
diet, without the aid of salt or other condiment,
so it is probably correct that it was Padre Serra'a
obstinacy in refusing to leave which saved the
California settlements in their first hour of need.
Again Portola led a force by land, and finally
succeeded in erecting establishments at Mon-
66
AND MONTECITO
terey, after which, in March, 1770 he returned to
Mexico.
Caspar de Portola was succeeded by Felipe
de Barri as Governor of the Californias, who
resided at the quaint town of Loreto, on the Gulf
of California, which was the capital of both
provinces, and had the distinction of being tht
only Governor who never visited Alta Californi.i
while under his control. The actual manage-
ment of affairs in this province was in the hands
of Pedro Fages, and between this autocratic sol-
dier and Padre Serra there w^as continued fric-
tion, which resulted in a temporary triumph for
the padre in 1774, when Fages was removed and
the command of the upper province placed in the
hands of Rivera y Moncada, who remained in
power from May 25, 1774, to Feb. 1775.
The latter w^as also a soldier, but much more
diplomatic and less aggressive than his prede-
cessor, and succeeded in getting along very well
with the Father--President by letting him ha\c
his own way.
In August, 1775, the King of Spain ordered
that the capital of Baja and Alta California
should be removed from Loreto to Monterey,
and that the Governor should reside there, the
Lieutenant-governor residing at Loreto.
Felipe de Neve, who succeeded Rivera j
Moncada, — who had been sent south to assume
the lieutenant-governorship at Loreto— was the
tfr
SANTA BARBARA
first Governor to reside at the new capital. He
presided over the destinies of the province with
marked success until July 12th, 1782. During
his governorship, a new arrangement went into
effect by which the northwest provinces, includ-
ing Alta and Baja California, were joined in a
district under a comandante-general, which re-
sulted in a great deal of local independence for.
the governor of the upper province. He was
well qualified to carry this responsibility, being
naturally of a judicial mind, and constantly plan-
ning measures for the betterment of the people
under his charge.
He found the representatives of the church,
the army, and the civil authority all striving for
the mastery, and by promulgating a codified plan
for settling vexatious questions, he managed to
bring a semblance of order into what had hith-
erto been a state of chaos.
During Felipe de Neve's administration, he
had a passage-at-arms with the indomitable
Padre Serra, on the subject of the right to admin-
ister confirmation to the Indian neophytes. Ac-
cording to law, this power was limited to bishops,
but Padre Serra felt that it was very unlikely any
bishop would visit California to administer the
rite of confirmation to the thousands desiring it,
and therefore he should be granted the power.
His persistence succeeded in securing the grant
through the intervention of the Franciscan Col-
AND MONTECITO
lege of San Fernando in Mexico City, which he
had visited in 1773, and he proceeded to admin-
ister confirmation to large numbers of Indians.
Upon the Governor hearing of this, he issued an
order suspending all confirmations, and reported
the matter to the comandante-general, who,
knowing of the authority granted to Padre Serra,
ordered the latter to show his papers to de Neve,
and settle the matter. This, however, it was im-
possible to do, as the papers had been sent to the
College of San Fernando, and the whole matter
fizzled out, Governor de Neve being appointed
in 1782 to the position of comandante-general of
the northwestern provinces, which position he-
only occupied for a few months, before his death.
Now comes on the scene again the arch-
enemy of Padre Serra, Pedro Fages, who wa>.
appointed Governor July 12, 1782.
Fages was of little intellectual capacity,
though a conscientions and well-meaning soldier,
and the padres found it a fairly easy matter to do
what they wanted, regardless of his wishes. This
fact is well set forth by the circumstances attend-
ing the founding of the Channel missions, San
Buenaventura, Santa Barbara, and Santa Ynez.
Governor de Neve had not opposed the found-
ing of the first-named, but he did not wish to
have two more Missions in that neighborhood a>
well, and therefore refused to sanction them un-
less the system was so modified as to permit of
69
SANTA BARBARA
only a few Indians living at each Mission at a
time, and these only for short periods. This ar-
rangement, however, the padres did not approve
of, and much to Governor de Neve's satisfaction,
refused to build the Missions under these con-
ditions, but Pedro Pages had not been in office
long before the three Channel missions were
built, and flourishing under exactly the same con-
ditions as the older ones.
When Pages resigned in 1791, Jose Antonio
Romeu succeeded him, but the latter only lived
to serve one year, during which time he was too
ill to take an active part in affairs.
Jose Joaquin de Arrillaga then took charge
of California as acting Governor until 1794,
when the new Governor, Diego de Borica came
on the scene.
This Governor is the first man reported to
have shown enthusiasm over the Golden State,
he having written to a friend that ''one could
live better here than in any court in Europe"; it
may have been, however, that he had a more op-
timistic disposition than his predecessors, and
was one of those people who could have been
comfortable anywhere. In addition to being
very popular and influential he was a good
worker, and very like Governor de Neve in his
dealings with the padres, although he did noth-
ing to stop the development of the Missions. On
the contrary, the work, which had proceeded
70
AND xM O N T E C I T O
slowly under the two previous administrations,
now took fresh life, and Padre Lasuen, who was
now Father-President, with the help of the Gov-
ernor, established five new Missions within two
years.
Governor Borica resigned in 1800, and was
succeeded by Jose Joaquin de Arrillaga, who had
previously acted as temporary Governor. Dur-
ing his administration, which lasted fourteen
years, Alta California was made a separate prov-
ince, under a decree dated August 29, 1804.
When Arrillaga was in power, great good
feeling existed between the civil and religious
authorities, this being due in a large measure to
the Governor realizing the fact that the Missions
were "cornering" the food supply, and that ere
long the whole province would be dependent on
them. Some time before the end of his rule,
supplies and money had ceased to come up from
Mexico, and the presidios and settlements were
face to face with starvation. As, however, the
Missions were flourishing, and had an ample
supply of wheat and other food, and large num-
bers of cattle, the Governor took the only course
open to him, and forced the Missions to turn over
their surplus, paying them with drafts on the
Spanish government. The padres, of course, ob
jected strenuously at first, but linally came to sec
it was the only thing to do, nnd at the time of the
downfall ol the Spaniards, they held worthless
71
SANTA BARBARA
paper to the tune of many thousands of dollars.
After the death of Governor Arrillaga, in
1814, and until the arrival of Pablo Vicente de
Sola, and tenth and last Spanish Governor of
California, in 1815, Comandante Jose Dario Ar-
guella of Santa Barbara, was acting Governor.
The inauguration of the last of the Spanish
Governors of California at Monterey in 1816, is
well worth recording.
The ceremonies opened with a military dis-
play in the plaza, and next came a reception in
the casa real. Twenty beautiful senoritas, rep-
resentatives of the famous Californian families,
Estudillo, Estrada, Vallejo, and others, kissed
the Governor's hand, and received in return
boxes of Mexican sweetmeats. Then followed
a banquet, the tables decked with roses, and laden
with all kinds of fruit, cordials and wines. After
an open-air feast for the populace, a bull versus
bear fight was organized on the grand scale.
Two days later. Sola and his suite, a glitter-
ing company of cuirassed cavaliers and lovely
ladies, set forth for San Carlos Mission. Thcv
were passing through a wood, when suddenly
there appeared a band of monks attended by In-
dian acolytes, followed by padres from all Cali-
fornia, bearing upon a platform an effigy ot
Christ, and accompanied by many hundred Indi-
ans. Sola and his officers dismounted, kissed the
feet of the Christ, and amid the perfume of in-
72
AND M O N T E C I T O
cense from censers swung by the acolytes, entered
the Mission, where they listened to a sermon by
Padre Amoros. A sham battle by the Indians
ended the festivities.
Governor de Sola had been an officer in the
Spanish army, and was unfitted in a large degree
for the difficult task he had to perform, in solv-
ing the problems facing the civil administration.
It was not until March, 1822 that Governor
de Sola heard of the new Empire in Mexico
under Iturbide; he at once called a meeting of
his officers and the Father-President of the Fran-
ciscans, to help decide whether they should give
their allegience to the new order. They all de
cided in favor of the new regime, and took oath
to that effect, the flag of Spain being lowered at
the Presidios throughout California, and that of
the Mexican empire raised in its stead, without
any disorder. Fifty three years had passed since
Gaspar de Portola had raised the blood red and
yellow flag of Spain, and it fell, as it was raised,
without bloodshed or strife.
Mexican Occupation - 1 822- 1 847
The most notable event arising from the
Mexican occupation of California was the re-
moval of the ban on trading, which caused a
great expansion of commerce and the organiza-
tion into towns of the military Presidios.
7J
SANTA BARBARA
The decay of the Mission system commenced
during the Governorship of Luis Antonio Argu-
ello in ]825, with the acceptance of the new con-
stitution which was modelled after that of the
United States, and made California a territory
of the new Republic of Mexico. The padres,
however, managed to put off the evil day when
they must be deprived of their secular powTr.
and to enjoy the fruits of their labors for nearly
ten years after the establishment of the republic;
although actual secularization did not come until
later, the towns had long succeeded the missions
as the dominating factor in the life of the terri-
tory.
Conditions existing in these infant cities
were anything but happy; the advent of republi-
canism causing much unrest, disorder, and even
open rebellion. Supplies and pay for the army,
which had dwindled during the last few years of
74
AND MONTECITO
Spanish rule, altogether ceased under the repub-
lic. Upon the troops stationed in California fell
the full burden of the change in government, and
they were almost reduced to a state of beggary.
Mexico at this period had the bad habit of
sending her surplus criminals to California,
which provoked much antagonism on the part of
the inhabitants, and caused never ending trouble
to the authorities. Much bitter feeling began to
arise against the Mexican Government by the
native Californians, and this feeling grew stead-
ily, and really paved the way for the easy acqui-
sition of the country by the United States in 1847
A number of opera boufTe revolutions and
powder play battles, in which casualties hardly
ever occurred (excepting a stray horse or mule) ,
took place at this period, but nothing really stir-
ring happened, the happy and indolent life of the
majority of the Spanish-Californians being the
opposite of war and its attendant horrors.
Mention of Santa Barbara as the favorite
resort of all the Governors of California is fre-
quently made, and had her claims to become the
capital of the state been adequately represented
in March, 1840, when Pio Pico was advocating
Los Angeles for that honor against Monterey,
she would doubtless have been successful, and
the politicians would have been able to attend to
the business of the state the year round. It would
have meant government under ideal climatic
75
SANTA BARBARA
conditions, and would have made our law-giverj>
progressive, patriotic, and unselfish representa-
tives of the people. Who knows but that some
day in the future, Santa Barbara will come into
her own, and reign as the Capital City of the
State of California?
Santa Barbara was a great favorite with Jose
Figueroa, who was the sixth Governor of Cali-
fornia. His death at San Juan Bautista on Sep
tember 29th, 1835 was the occasion of impres-
sive funeral rites at Santa Barbara, where he was
laid to rest in a vault at the Mission.
Following Figueroa's death, Alvarado, a
native son of Monterey, organized a revolution,
and advanced on Santa Barbara with one hun-
dred men. The garrison only mustering thirty
ill-armed men, the mayor called the town
council together, and on the advice of Coman-
dante de la Guerra and Padre Duran, accepted
him as Governor. Alvarado was noted for be
ing longheaded; he knew that if Santa Barbara
accepted him, the rest of the State would fall in
line, which it did. As a recompense, he con-
vened the first Californian Congress to meet at
Santa Barbara on April 1 1th, 1837. There were
present besides himself, Jose Antonio de la
Guerra y Noriega, Antonio Buelna, Manuel
Jimeno Casarin, Jose Ramon Estrada and Fran-
cisco Xavier Alvarado. The Congress readily
approved of all that had been done, and for the
76
AND xM O N r E C 1 T O
purpose of carrying out the spirit of the arrange-
ment made with Los Angeles, it decreed that the
Governor should prepare and transmit to the
supreme government at Mexico a petition for the
reestablishment of the federal system and the
recognition of California as a sovereign federal
state, free to administer its own internal con-
cerns.
Governor Alvarado had the Mexican habir
of writing proclamations and pronounciamentos,
but the most remarkable of these was one issued
at Santa Barbara on July 9th. It is rare to find
among these Californian or Mexican proclama-
tions anything worth preserving; only here and
there, as a general rule, can a few words, or
sometimes a paragraph, be found of sufficient in-
terest to transcribe, and then chiefly on account
of its extravagance. Alvarado's paper, however,
besides its value as a historical document, was
remarkable as the work of a native Californian,
only twenty-eight years of age, who had substan-
tially educated himself in secret. Referring to
himself as citizen Juan B. Alvarado, Governor
of the Department of Alta California, and ad-
dressing all its inhabitants as fellow-citizens, he
said : —
''Compatriots! Liberty, peace and union arc
''the triune intelligence by which our destiny is
"to be governed. Our arms have given us the
"first; a wise congress will secure to us the sec-
77
SANTA BARBARA
''ond, and upon ourselves alone depends the
"third. But without union there can be no per-
"manent liberty or peace. Let us, therefore,
''preserve indissoluble this union — the sacred ark
''in which lies enshrined our political redemp-
"tion. War only against the tyrant! Peace
"among ourselves!
"The solidity of a building consists in the
"union of its parts. A single stone displaced
"from one of its arches causes the columns to
"topple and precipates into ruin a fabric, which,
"if the materials composing it remained united,
"might mark the age of time. Such is the effect
"of disunion upon a physical edifice. It is in no
"respect different in its ruinous effect upon the
moral edifice of society.
The territory of Alt-a California is immense
in extent. Its coasts are bathed by the great
"ocean, which, by placing it in communication
"with the nations of the world, give encourage-
"ment to our industry and commerce — the foun-
"tains of wealth and abundance. The benignity
"of our climate, the fertility of our soil, and, I
"may be permitted to add, your suavity of man-
"ners and excellence of character, are all so
many privileges with which the Omnipotent, in
the distribution of his gifts, has preferred it.
"What country can enumerate so many conjoined
"advantages as ours? Let us see that it occupiej^
78
n
AND MONTECITO
'^as distinguished a place in history as it occupies
''upon the map.
"The constitutional laws of the year '36 guar-
''antees the inviolability of our rights, and even
''extend them beyond our moderate desires. The
"august chamber of the nation's representatives
"is ready to listen to any legislative proposition
"we may present to it calculated to promote our
"well-being and prosperity. Our votes may
"avail in favor of the deserving citizen whom wc
"may deem worthy to fill the supreme national
"magistracy. And what more can you wish?
"The same laws assure us that we will not again
"become the spoil of the despotism and ambition
"of another tyrant like Don Mariano Chico. The
"Department of Alta California can henceforth
be governed only by a son of its soil or one of its
own citizens.
"Yes, my friends, the enthusiasm and joj
"caused in you by the promising outlook is en-
"tirely just. I myself feel the same emotions of
"pleasure. There is no need any longer to do
"yourselves the violence of restraining your rc-
"joicing. Let it have scope and join with me in
"exclaiming: Long live the nation! Long live
"the constitution of the year '36! Long live the
"congress which sanctioned it! Long live lib-
'^erty! Long live union!"
A brief resume of the various Governors and
other public officers who were identified with
79
SANTA BARBARA
California, will serve to illustrate the feeble hold
which Mexico had upon the political affections
of so remote and neglected a dependency.
Pablo Vicente de Sola was the last Califor-
nian Governor under the Spanish flag, and the
first under the Mexican. In 1823 he was ordered
to Mexico, and Luis Antonio Arguello was
named Governor with all the powers of his pred-
ecessor, and remained so until the arrival of Jose
Maria de Echeandia in November, 1825. Eche-
andia had command until the arrival of Manuel
Victoria, in 1831. Victoria continued in power
until December of that year, when the Califor-
nians under Portilla revolted against his rule,
and after a battle which resulted in one killed
and one wounded, the latter being Victoria him-
self, he, believing that discretion was the better
part of valor, gave up and departed for Mexico.
At that time Pio Pico was the senior member
of the Territorial Department and by law be-
came Governor pro tempore.
Echeandia, meanwhile, had remained among
his friends at San Diego, probably expecting
some speedy change in political affairs, and with
the departure of Victoria assumed the military
command. Both he and Pico continued in office
until the arrival of Jose Figueroa in 1833. He
was the most progressive of all the Mexican
Governors, and died in 1835, presumably from
overwork. During his last illness, he delivered
80
AND MONTECITO
the civil command to Jose Castro, and the mili-
tary to Nicholas Guiterrez. These remained in
office until the arrival of Mariano Chico on May
3rd, 1836; in August of the same year the latter
was sent away by the Territorial Department,
and previous to his departure left the military
and civil command with Guiterrez.
On the 6th of November, 1836, the Califor-
nians, assisted by some foreigners under Captain
Graham, an American, and Captain Coppinger,
an Englishman, revolted against Guiterrez, and
the latter was forced to leave the country with all
his officers except those who had taken part in
favor of the natives and wished to remain.
Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo played an im-
portant part in this revolution, and became com-
mander of the forces, while his nephew, Juan
Bautista Alvarado, was made civil governor,
which positions they held until the arrival of
Manuel Micheltorena in 1842.
Early in 1845, Micheltorena was sent away
by the Californians, after forming a sort of treaty
with them (he being desirous to proceed to
Mexico), leaving Jose Castro with the military
command. Pio Pico, who was again the senior
member of the Territorial Department, then be-
came Governor. These two continued in power,
as military and civil heads respectively, until
August 10th, 1846.
From October 31st, 1846, to January 11th.
8i
SANTA BARBARA
1847, Jose Maria Flores was Governor, and di-
rected the military operations against the Ameri-
cans between San Pedro and Los Angeles. He
was succeeded on January 1 1th, 1847, by Andres
Pico, brother of Pio Pico, who had the distinc-
tion of being Commander of the Californian
forces in the field, and Governor of California
for two days; on January 13th 1847, he termin-
ated his career as Governor, and signed the treaty
of peace with Colonel John C. Fremont.
In 1843, Thomas O. Larkin w^as appointed
the first, and became incidentally the last, Am-
erican Consul in California. He also held vari-
ous other official appointments under the United
States Government up till 1848, v/hen California
was admitted to the Union, becoming an Ameri-
can State, with all its privileges.
American Acquisition
Although historians differ regarding the re-
spective merits of General Stephen W. Kearny,
Commodore Robert F. Stockton, and Lieutenant
82
AND MONTECITO
Colonel John C. Fremont, relative to the con-
quest or acquisition of California by America,
looking at it from an impartial standpoint, it
must be conceded that this became an accom-
plished fact due in a great measure to the true
American dash and persistency of the ^Tath-
finder," by which title Lieutenant Colonel Fre-
mont is almost universally remembered.
Colonel John C. Fremont.
He first became known in connection with
scientific and exploring expeditions to the
Rocky Mountains in 1842, and another to Ore-
gon and California in 1843 and 1844, being made
83
SANTA BARBARA
Captain in the United States Topographical En-
gineers in 1844 for his services, and later Lieu-
tenant Colonel.
Fremont had the good fortune, as a young
man, to win the hand of Jessie, a talented daugh-
ter of Thomas H. Benton, United States senator
from Missouri. The latter opposed his daugh-
ter's choice, but the young couple were very-
much in love, and finally they eloped and were
married. Fremont thus became the husband of
a bright woman and the son-in-law of one of the
most able and influential statesmen of his day;
and it may have been partly to these connections
and the influences they exerted on his behalf that
he owed his rise to the prominent positions he
afterwards occupied.
Senator Benton had always taken a great in-
terest in California, and had many schemes in his
mind for its acquisition. With far-sighted intel-
ligence, he saw that the time was coming when
the country would somehow be Americanized,
and then there would be a great future in the new
State for an enterprising man who knew how to
take advantage of circumstances. His son-in-
law was such a man, young and active, with
plenty of assurance and endurance, and besides,
a man of much scientific and general knowledge.
There were, of course, defects in his character,
among which was a lack of caution, but never-
theless, he was the right kind of man for Cali-
84
AND MONTECITO
fornia; he knew the country well, having already
been engaged in explorations of it. The reports
of his expeditions, which were very ably written,
were published by the United States Govern-
ment, and under the skillful management of Ben-
ton, Fremont acquired an almost world-wide
reputation.
Lieut. Colonel Fremont, in 1846, had been
engaged in topographical survey work in the
Sacramento Valley, when a party of adventurous
settlers, chiefly Americans, revolted against
Mexico and raised the standard of the ^'Bear
Flag" Republic at Sonoma, near San Francisco.
Overtures were made to Fremont to join
forces with them, and although not openly sup-
porting the revolt, he diplomatically kept in
touch with them.
On the fourteenth of June, 1846, at Sonoma,
while Fremont and his men were encamped near
the Buttes, the ''Bear Flag" Republic of Cali-
fornia came into being, William B, Ide appoint-
ing himself Commander, and issuing a bombas-
tic proclamation. June 2Sth saw the arrival of
Fremont at Sonoma, and although a commis-
sioned officer of the United States Army, the rev-
olutionary body on July 4th, named Fremont its
Commander, its late Commander Ide becoming
a full private. The *'Bcar Flag" revolutionaries
and Fremont's scouts were now formed into a
85
SANTA BARBARA
force called the ''California Battalion" of about
two hundred and fifty strong.
Fremont and two hundred men marched to
Sutter's fort to begin a campaign against Gen-
eral Castro; after many slight skirmishes in the
vicinity of San Francisco bay, in which Kit
Carson, one of Fremont's scouts, distinguished
himself by shooting down three Spanish Cali-
fornians in retaliation for the killing of two of
the revolutionaries, he spiked ten cannon in the
old Presidio of San Francisco, took the Coman-
dante of the fort prisoner, and made his way to
New Helvetia.
On his arrival, having received word that
Commodore Sloat had hoisted the American flag
and taken possession of Monterey on July 7th,
1846, Fremont promptly followed suit at New
Helvetia, and at the same time severed his con-
nection with the ''Bear Flag" Republic of Cali-
fornia. Reaching Monterey, Commodore Stock-
ton, who succeeded Sloat on July 23rd, accepted
a tender of services from Fremont and his men,
and appointed him Major of the newly formed
"California Battalion of Mounted Riflemen,"
which included scouts and "Bear Flag" revolu-
tionaries. This command embarked for San
Diego, and Stockton sailed for San Pedro, where
he landed his forces. General Castro and Gov-
ernor Pio Pico made a show of defence, but on
the approach of Fremont and Stockton, who had
86
SANTA BARBARA
joined forces, fled, and on August 13, Los Ange-
les was occupied.
Learning a few days afterwards that war had
actually broken out between the United States
and Mexico, Stockton immediately declared
California to be United States territory, and set-
tled matters by placing the whole country under
martial law and appointed Fremont its military
governor.
The picturesque appearance of Fremont's ir-
regular cavalry has been frequently commented
on, and its visit to Santa Barbara when Fremont
was on his way North to enroll recruits, is still
remembered by one or two of the few remaining
Barbarenos of that time. They state that Fre-
mont's force was composed of fierce looking
frontier trappers dressed in buckskin, many of
them Indians, armed with rifles, bowie knives
and revolvers, and mounted on wild looking
horses. They encamped three blocks west of
State on Carrillo Street, and Fremont made his
headquarters at the corner of State and East Car-
rillo St., his officers staying at the St. Charles
Hotel.
After a brief sojourn, Fremont went north to
obtain recruits, and was successful in enlisting
some Walla Walla Indians and Canadian trap-
pers as American soldiers at twenty-five dollars
a month; he then proceeded to San Francisco
where he met Commodore Stockton.
88
AND MONTECIIO
At the end of September, word reached
Stockton that the Spanish Californians were in
revolt, and that Lieut. Gillespie, who had been
left in charge at Los Angeles, had capitulated,
having been guaranteed against molestation
while he withdrew with his men to San Pedro
and embarked on the merchant ship Vandalia.
His evacuation was followed by that of the small
garrison at San Diego. Also, on September 25th,
Lieutenant Talbot, who with ten men had been
left in charge at Santa Barbara, had been called
upon to surrender, but although surrounded by
a large body of horsemen, he refused, and duriui^
the night escaped to the mountains. The Cali-
fornians tried to smoke out the little party by
setting fire to the brush, but fortunately they had
taken refuge in a canyon, and after a few days, a
friendly Indian guided them to the San Joaquin
Valley. From there they made their way to
Monterey, arriving in a half-starved condition,
having traveled over five hundred miles.
By this time, all Southern California was up
in arms against the invaders, under the leader-
ship of Jose Maria Flores, who directed the mil
itary operations when Captain Mervine, of the
U. S. S. Savannah landed at San Pedro on Oc-
tober 6th. With a force of three hundred and
fifty marines he started out to re-capture Los
Angeles, expecting to obtain mounts for his men
on the way. The Californians, however, hod
SANTA BARBARA
denuded the country of horses, although ther
themselves were well mounted.
The Californians were two hundred strong,
tnd had one small cannon, which was trained on
the road which the Americans had to traverse.
As soon as they came within range the gun was
fired and then quickly hauled out of reach, to be
again fired when the Americans appeared. The
elusive tactics of the Californians made the brav-
ery of the marines — who advanced again and
again — of no avail, and Captain Mervine
ordered his men to retire, which they did, carry-
ing with them the dead and wounded.
Stockton, on hearing this news, sent Fremont
with his men by land to Los Angeles, and he him-
self embarked for San Pedro, arriving there on
October 23rd. After endeavoring to obtain
horses for his men, without success, and not wish-
ing to repeat Mervine's experience, he re-em-
barked, and sailed for San Diego, to await Fre-
mont, who had stopped at Monterey for recruits.
A force of over eight hundred men, the larg-
est body of troops seen in California up to that
time, was gathered early in November at San
Diego in preparation for a move on Los Angeles.
During the progress of these events, early in
December, General Stephen W. Kearny had
entered California from New Mexico over the
Colorado River. He had left Santa Fe in com-
mand of over three hundred men with orders to
90
AND MONTECITO
proceed to California, and hold the territory for
the United States. On his way to the coast he
met Kit Carson, the famous scout, bearing des-
patches from Stockton, and learned from him
that California was already in American posses-
sion; Carson also told him that the native Cali-
fornians were all cowards, and would not fight.
On the strength of this General Kearny sent
back to Santa Fe all but one hundred and twentv
of his men.
Unfortunately, Carson had left Los Angeles
on his mission to Washington before the actual
revolt in the south had commenced, and knew
aothing of the disturbances which had broken
out there. General Kearny went for\vard with
his weakened force into the midst of a situation
for which he was unprepared, and was soon
brought to a realization of his mistake.
Captain Andres Pico had been sent by Gen-
eral Flores to harass Stockton at San Diego, and
to keep horses and supplies from the Americans.
On the night of December 5th he encamped with
his small body of horsemen at the Indian pueblo
of San Pasqual, in the immediate neighborhood
of Kearny's troops, without being aware of their
close proximity, and the American general de-
termined to advance and drive back what he
thought was a band of raiders. His command,
and more especially his animals, were almost ex-
hausted from their trip across the desert, and in
91
SANTA BARBARA
no condition to fight; many of his men were even
mounted on mules, but Kearny was convinced
that a demonstration would be sufficient to defeat
the Californians.
The following morning, December 6th,
Kearny with his dragoons, and Gillespie's men,
one hundred and sixty in all, with three guns,
prepared to attack the Californians. It is re-
lated that Acting-Lieutenant Beale of Gillespie's
party endeavored to prevent this, on account of
the bad condition of the men and horses, but
Kearny paid no attention to him.
As the first fifteen Americans reached the
hilltop overlooking Pico's encampment, Kearny,
with the confidence born of ignorance, ordered
a charge, expecting to see the enemy flee.
They certainly did so, but first killed Captain
Johnston, who was commanding the advance
guard. The Americans, flushed with what they
thought was success, galloped in reckless pursuit,
but soon their weakened condition began to tell,
and the Californians easily outdistanced them.
Suddenly, the apparently defeated Califor-
nians turned on their pursuers, and as the strag-
gling line of Americans came within reach, the
long lances did deadly work. The firearms car-
ried by the Americans had been discharged in
the first attack, and they had not thought it neces-
sary to reload ; sabres and guns without ammuni-
tion in the hands of tired and poorly mounted sol-
92
AND MONTECITO
diers were no match for long sharp lances in the
hands of the finest horsemen in the world, and
although the Americans, coming up in numbers,
finally drove off the enemy, eighteen of their men
were killed and nineteen more seriously
wounded, while the Californians lost about a
dozen wounded. The Americans camped on the
field, and could perhaps claim the day, but it was
an empty victory.
The morning after the battle, Kearny de-
cided to march his weary troops towards San
Diego, but he had not advanced far before he
was surrounded by a large body of Californians,
who kept him cooped up for several days. Kit
Carson and Lieutenant Beale managed to get
through the enemy's lines to Commodore Stock-
ton at San Diego, and advised him of the pre-
dicament of General Kearny. A relief force
was at once despatched, the Californians retreat-
ing on the approach of the reinforcements, and
Kearny's command resumed its march to San
Diego, arriving there on December 12th in a pit-
iable condition.
Leaving San Diego on December 29th,
Stockton with six hundred men advanced to re-
capture Los Angeles. After a skirmish with the
enemy at San Gabriel on January 8th, 1847, he
engaged in an artillery duel with Flores' men on
the outskirts of the city, and although the Cali-
fornian cavalry charged repeatedly, they were
93
SANTA BARBARA
finally routed, and Los Angeles entered the fol-
lowing day.
In the meantime, Fremont had recruited
some four hundred and twenty men of all nation-
alities, including some reformed Californian
horse thieves (it would seem that reform socie-
ties were busy even in those days) and with them
left Monterey on November 17th to aid in the re-
conquest of Southern California.
After several skirmishes of no special inter-
est, San Luis Obispo was captured, and ex-Com-
andante Jesus Pico taken prisoner at a ranch
near by, and sentenced to death; however, upon
the intercession of his wife and fourteen child-
ren, Fremont pardoned him, much to the disgust
of his scouts.
Without any further incident, Santa Barbara
was again entered, no opposition being offered,
as most of the young men had gone to Los Ange-
les. Fremont gave his men a week's rest here,
and it is related that during his stay a plot was
hatched to kidnap him at a dance given to the
officers under his command, but Comandante dc
la Guerra hearing of this he forbade it, doubtless
fearing reprisals on the part of Fremont's men in
the event of its success.
Continuing his march from Santa Barbara,
January 3rd, 1847, Fremont slowly advanced,
and exchanged shots with a party of Californians
at Ventura, without any casualties, arriving at
94
AND MONTECITO
San Fernando January 8th, the day before Stock-
ton, who had advanced from San Diego en-
countering but slight opposition, entered Los
Angeles, where the Stars and Stripes wak
hoisted, never to be lowered again.
While in camp at San Fernando, Fremont
made preparations for a treaty of peace with the
Californians, due to the efforts of Jesus Pico who
had been sentenced to death and pardoned br
Fremont; Pico visited the camp of the Califor-
nians in the hills and repaid his pardon by induc-
ing its leaders to accept Fremont's terms.
On the 13th of January, 1847, at a point near
the Cahuenga Pass, a treaty was drawn up for
the restoration of peace, and settling the future
rights of the Californians. This bore the signa-
tures of Comandante Andres Pico for the Cali-
fornians and Colonel John C. Fremont for the
United States; Governor Flores, and Commo-
dore Stockton as the United States Commander-
in-Chief assented, and the treaty was an accom-
plished fact.
Commodore Stockton, in pursuance of in-
structions which he had communicated to the
Government in September (1846), now ap-
pointed Col. Fremont governor of the territory,
and Wm. H. Russell, secretary. It is painful to
relate that unfortunate disputes arose as to the
right of Fremont to the hii^h dignity of governor.
General Kearny produced a commission ap-
95
SANTA BARBARA
pointing himself to the office. His pretensions,
however were opposed by both Stockton and
Fremont, who contended that a new train of
circumstances had arisen since the produced
commission had been granted. The instructions
to General Kearny from the war department,
(^^should he conquer the country"), Commodore
Stockton considered as anticipated by himself:
and of course the resulting action prescribed by
those instructions contingently, (^'to form a civil
government,") as devolving on himself, the real
conqueror of the territory. In these views of
Stockton, the Government entirely acquiesced, —
so far as respected the approval in mass of his
whole conduct, — the secretary of the navy spec-
ially thanking him for anticipating the wishes of
the Government. It is not a little singular, that
although the validity of Stockton's acts was thus
sanctioned, yet Colonel Fremont, for obedience
to his orders, was tried by court martial, and con-
victed of disobedience to the orders of General
Kearny. His sentence was suspension from the
service; but the President, in consideration of
his many services and mitigating circumstances*
was pleased to remit the punishment, and
ordered him to be restored to his former rank.
Fremont, however, being of the opinion that he
had done no wrong, refused to accept this clem-
ency, and accordingly resigned his commission^
and retired from the American militarv service,
96
AND MONTECITO
Whatever may have been the merits of this case,
il is certain that Fremont showed himself a true
hero, in his efforts to overthrow the Mexican
power in California, and is deserving of the
gratitude of American settlers in that territory.
As an adventurous, persevering and talented ex-
plorer, who laid open practicable and easy paths
to a great country that had long been closed
against the boldest pioneers, he deserves the ap-
probation of the civilized world.
*'The Pathfinder" again engaged in explor-
ation work, and once more visited California in
1849, where he was enthusiastically received.
Such was his popularity that he was elected V.
S. Senator for California in 1850, and in 1856 re-
ceived the nomination for President by the new
Republican Party.
At the outbreak of the Civil War he was ap-
pointed Major General of Volunteers, May
14th, 1861, resigning his command on June 4th,
1864.
He was appointed Governor of Arizona in
1878, and was placed on the Army retired list as
Major General early in 1890, by special Act of
Congress, dying shortly afterwards, July 13th.
1890.
Whatever his detractors may say, the fact re-
mains that John C. Fremont freely contributed
his services in adding to the domain of the
United States, and he will always live in the
97
SANTA BARBARA
memory of young America as ''The Pathfinder.''
a sobriquet he earned by his explorations and ac-
tivities on behalf of his country.
The treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, in the be-
ginning of 1848, confirmed the possession of Cal-
ifornia to the United States, and ended its history
as a Spanish community. The Spanish Califor-
nians might have continued to form the larger
part of the population, like the French in Louis-
iana, had not the discovery of gold in the Sacra-
mento brought an overwhelming flood of treas-
ure-seekers from every land under the sun, until
today, very few of the old school are left.
Early Days in Santa Barbara
Some thirty years ago, the task of construct-
ing a scene of the early days of Santa Barbara
would have been comparatively simple, but to-
day almost all of those who then figured in his-
tory have passed away, and only their descend-
ants are left, from whom much of the following
material has been gathered.
It is probably true that the old Californians
were, so far as merely material existence is con-
cerned, perhaps the happiest people who ever
lived upon the face of the earth. They were
few in number in a country of inexhaustible
natural wealth; the climate enabled them to live
out-of-doors all the year round, and made exer-
98
AND MONTECITO
cise a pleasure, for it is neither too warm nor too
cold at any season. The cattle, horses, and sheep
fed on the richest pastures, and were never cared
for as it is necessary to do with animals in the
East. If more land was needed, it could be ob-
tained for the asking; a man dowered his daugh-
ters from the public domain, and had only to
take the trouble to select what he thought the
best.
Poverty, in the sense in which it is understood
today was unknown, for he who was poor lived
on his rich relations; the houses were always
open to every one, and at the table sat uncles,
cousins, and nieces, to the farthest degree re-
moved, welcome with the family to the chili con
carne, beans, tortillas, and dukes which com-
posed the ample meals.
Indians were their servants, or rather part of
the family, since they were paid no wages in the
sense of the word; on feast days they would be
given a new blanket, scarf or petticoat, and a lit-
tle money to spend. Illness and doctors' bills
were unknown. When the ranchcro traveled he
found a free hotel at every house; and when his
horse was tired, he simply lassoed a fresh one out
of the first pasture he came to, turned his own
adrift, and went on.
Their few wants were mostly supplied from
their own lands, and inr such luxuries as tea,
coffee, sugar, or bright dress stuffs for the wo-
99
V.
J'ilA
SANTA BARBARA
men, they sold hides, horns and tallow to the
Boston traders.
But they had none of the energy and ingenu-
ity of civilized life. They merely lived and had
no thought for the morrow; they planted no
trees, few fields were plowed; and a soil which is
the richest in the world, and a climate in which
the orange, the vine, and olive flourish, served
them merely for pasture. Is it to be wondered
at that the few old Californians still living re-
gret the change?
In the early forties, the citizens of Santa Bar-
bara relied on the visits of trading vessels for
everything in the way of luxuries, which were
exchanged for hides, etc. In those days there
were no wharves, the buyers being conveyed
from shore to ship by sailors dressed for the oc-
casion in blue flannel shirts, with white stars on
the collars, blue cloth trousers, leather belts, and
with bare feet. The ^'jackies" of those days had
lots of fun in carrying the ladies in their arms
and depositing them in the stern sheets of the
boat, for the trip to the ship, the surf at times
being heavy, and drenching the fair cargo before
pulling away from the shore. Then the excite-
ment of boarding the treasure ship, which con-
tained the latest fashions from Boston, and bar-
gaining for anything which took their fancy. All
had open accounts, to be paid for at some future
period in hides and tallow, and such was the
100
AND MONTECIIO
honesty that characterized the trading, that very
few bad debts were made, the balance of account
usually being in favor of the trader — the New
England variety which held the trade in this
section being unusually keen.
How the senoritas did chatter as they looked
over the treasures, always under the watchful
gaze of an elderly duena, to keep them out of
Castle Rock, Santa Barbara.
mischief and the men at a distance, but all pre-
cautions were vain at times, since love laughs at
duenas and other impediments, many a love-
match and subsequent mnrriage resulting from
visits to the ships of these Boston traders.
The cargoes usually consisted of clothing,
hardware, boots and shoes, jewelry, clocks,
shawls, combs, furniture, and liquors and groccr-
101
SANTA BARBARA
ies of all kinds. The import of assorted cargoes
and the export of hides and tallow became a
great trade on the coast, and constituted the chief
commerce of the country down to 1849, when the
gold rush started.
********
The people seemed happy and content; their
wants were few, and ^^Sufficient for the day" was
their motto. Though the land around Santa Bar-
bara was very rich, it lay idle, for the most part.
Each family raised a little corn; or rather, they
had Indians raise it for them. The corn they
ground in a rude manner between two stones
before each meal, and out of it made tortillas,
and with these and dried beef and yerba buena
tea, they were satisfied. Of course, the rich fam-
ilies lived better.
Boston merchants had the whole trade of the
coast. Almost every ship that came hailed from
Boston; so they thought Boston was the United
States. The only thing they had to export was
hides and tallow. Once a year the large ranch-
eros slaughtered their fat cattle, dried the beef,
and saved up the tallow and hides, and trans-
ported all to a shipping point. For a good dry
hide they could get $2.50 in trade, or $1.25 in
cash. Sometimes when they had a surplus of
dried beef they sold it for export to the islands
or Chile.
When the killing time came on at the large
102
AND MONTECITO
ranches, Indians were gathered, and they did ail
the work. Each Indian would have about a
dozen dogs, and all would live high during the
killing time, and go away fat. The buzzards
would gather in great numbers, and devour what
the Indians and dogs would leave. It was
against the law to kill a buzzard, and they
seemed to know it, as they were without fear.
They were sometimes so gorged that they could
not rise from a level piece of ground, but would
have to waddle up to some elevation and then
float ofif. The sports of the people were horse-
racing and cock-fighting, their amusement the
fandango, while monte was their only gambling
game. Deer-hides furnished a good part of the
wearing apparel of the men, though they had
some sheep, the wool from which was woven into
blankets by the Indians. The clothing of the
women, which was very simple, came from
Boston.
^ ^ 4^ ^ ^ "^ ^ "^
A very old inhabitant of Santa Barbara re-
members the time, some eighty years ago, when
her brother traded some deer skins for a gun and
four tooth-brushes, with an American captain.
The tooth-brushes were the first seen in this parr
of the world, but after rubbino; their teeth and
gums with them till the blood came, the family
decided they liked best the brushes made of
pounded willow-root that they had always used.
103
SANTA BARBARA
After the trading ship went new dresses were
cut out, and made up by the Indian women, and
the old lady still remembers how proud she was
of some large brass buttons with eagles on them,
with which her mother trimmed one of the new
garments, and how she used to polish them every
day with the tooth-brush and some of the pow-
dered egg-shell which her sisters and all the
Spanish ladies used on their complexions on state
occasions. One of the neighbors, who came from
several miles away to see the new purchases, of-
fered to give her a fine colt for six of the buttons,
but they were much too precious to be bartered
away.
The only form of dwelling in early Santa
Barbara was the adobe with tiled roof; it was
well calculated to keep cool in summer and
warm in winter, and is today in many respects
the most suitable houses for the climate.
The interior of the houses was plainly fur-
nished, the chief luxury being generally found
in the furnishings and decorations of the senora's
room, no matter how simple her domicile.
Objects of pride with the California house-
wife were the family garments stitched and em-
broidered to a nicety, but objects of supreme
pride were the beds. Not less than luxurious
must they be, with ticks filled with down, silken
counterpanes, and satin pillow-covers edged with
lace or embroidery.
104
AND MONTECITO
In the old days it would be difficult indeed to
find a community in California who got more out
of life than the citizens of Santa Barbara. The
commonest dress had a picturesque air, since
rich and poor usually wore a silver or gold
braided wide sombrero, which with the gay col-
ors of jackets and breeches, made up a costume
which, though grotesque in the present day, was
eminently suited to the period.
Silks, satins, and richest brocades of such ma-
terial as would last a lifetime (not like the pres-
ent day flimsy affairs) characterized the ladies'
dresses; in a trousseau it was not uncommon to
find as many as forty dresses of silk and satin, be
sides embroidered Philippine shawls, scarfs, and
fine linens.
The costume worn by women of the middle
class consisted of a bodice with short embroid-
ered sleeves, often richly trimmed with lace, a
muslin petticoat flounced with scarlet or other
bright color, and fastened at the waist by a band
of the same hue, shoes of velvet or satin, a cotton
reboso or scarf, necklace and ear-rings of pearls
or other stones, with the hair falling down the
back in broad braids. The English style was
affected by some women of the wealthy class, and
instead of the reboso, a rich shawl of silk or satin
was worn. There was something graceful in the
management of the reboso which the Spanish
woman alone can impart, and the perfect non-
lOS
SANTA BARBARA
chalence with which it was draped about them,
added much to its beauty.
*Jt^ ^ ^ Jk j^ ^ jk.
/J* ^j> ^r* "i* "T* '•• "I*
Barbecues, meriendas, or picnics were a fav-
orite diversion, and the time passed pleasantly in
dancing, music, and games; hot refreshments
were usually served, consisting of tamales, en-
chiladas, roast polios (chickens), and often a
calf, deer, or kid barbecued whole on the spot.
The generous fare usually concluded with an as-
sortment of dulces (cakes and candied fruits),
fresh fruits, nuts, and native and foreign wines.
Relations between mistress and maid were in-
deed happy in those days; although servants, es-
pecially old retainers, were permitted many
privileges, the master and mistress were re-
garded with the greatest respect, as being respon-
sible for their welfare. The favored servant,
who usually waited at table, would often be per-
mitted to break into the conversation, much to
the astonishment of guests who were unac-
quainted with this custom. An old Spanish
proverb bearing on this is as follows : — ^'Un buen
criado sabe cuando callar y cuando meter su
cuchara" (A good servant knows when to be
silent and when to put in his spoon) .
*4t 4t 4tt ^ 'It -ke 'Ite
«1% ^» *f* ^» *J* •!» I*
Some of the great ranches were like the an-
cient feudal estates, one of the most notable being
that of Captain Jose de la Guerra y Noriega, a
106
)Kil*=
a'^-.v\
^ .-^.,
SANTA BARBARA
Spaniard, and founder of the de la Guerra fam-
ily of Santa Barbara. Very wealthy, he owned
fifty leagues of land, 20,000 head of cattle, and
12,000 horses. Both he and his wife, who was of
the family of Carrillo, were ardent supporters of
the church, and devoted to its interests; so good
were they to their less fortunate brothers as to be
called ^'defender of the poor" and "that most
charitable lady." An American visitor to Santa
Barbara early in last century is reported to have
said on her return home that she found two su-
perlatively good things in California. '*La
Senora Noriega and grapes." It is also told that
Captain Noriega when about to pay for merch-
andise brought in by ship would take his creditor
to the attic of his house, a room which was used
solely for storing his treasure. Here were two
ancient Spanish chairs, and at intervals were
standing over a dozen coras (Indian baskets) the
largest holding about half a bushel, all of which
contained gold, some being almost full. It is also
told how the sons of Captain Noriega removed
two or three tiles from the roof under which
stood these baskets, and then, with a home-made
tool, raked out the sum desired; surely a novel
way of tapping their father's banking account.
The Spanish-Californians were noted for
their extreme politeness, even to the point of su-
perfluous ceremony. It was customary for each
108
AND MONTECITO
member of the family to meet and embrace an
acquaintance on entering a room. This cordial-
ity was extended to the stranger as soon as the
members of the household recognized him as a
friend.
This ease and grace of character extended to
all classes of people, the poorest often exhibiting
a courtesy that would become a prince, in their
attitude to each other as well as towards strang-
ers.
A guest upon entering a house was immedi-
ately assured that everything was at his disposal,
the usual salutation being: — '^es casa de usted"
(this house is yours), though it was not to be as-
sumed that this offering was to be taken literally;
still, their inborn hospitality always made the
visitor feel at home.
********
First American Settler in Santa Barbara
The honor of being the first American-boni
permanent settler in Santa Barbara undoubtedly
belongs to Joseph Chapman, he having been en-
rolled as a colonist by Governor Sola in 1818.
Originally from Boston, where he had
learned the trade of a shipwright, he became a
sailor, and landed at Buenos Aires just in time
to be impressed as a member of the crew of the
Argentino privateer captained by the French-
man Bouchard, who raided the coast of Califor-
109
SANTA BARBARA
nia in 1818. A party of buccaneers was landed
at *'E1 Refugio," the Ortega ranch about thirty
miles north of Santa Barbara during these raids,
and while engaged in plunder, were attacked by
soldiers from the Presidio. A fierce skirmish
took place, several pirates being killed and
driven into the sea, and two taken prisoners.
These two were taken into the Ortega ranch,
one of them being Joseph Chapman, and Senor-
ita Guadalupe Ortega, a girl of sixteen, dressed
the wounds he had received, and at the same
time lost her heart to him. A few days later,
when Chapman was tried by court-martial, the
young Senorita went to Santa Barbara to plead
for his life; the comandante of the Presidio, be-
ing a kind-hearted man, said that if anyone
would be responsible for the appearance of the
prisoners when called upon, they should go free,
and Capt. Antonio Lugo, agreed to be responsi-
ble for Chapman, and to take him to Los Angeles
in case some harm should befall him here.
Jose Chapman, as he was afterwards called,
being ingenious and of an industrious disposition,
as well as possessing good manners and deport-
ment, gained the favor of the Californians, and
a year after his landing as a prisoner, he came
from Los Angeles to Santa Barbara, and wedded
Senorita Ortega at the Santa Barbara Mission.
He became noted for the success attending
every project which he planned, and the padres
110
AND MONTECITO
said he could get more work out of the Indians
when superintending them than all the major-
domos of the missions put together.
A ship being needed for the use of the Mis-
sion of San Gabriel, Chapman, under the direc-
tion of Padre Jose Sanchez, undertook to build
one, undeterred by the fact that he would have-
to obtain the necessary timber from the moun-
tains some thirty miles away from tidewater. He
made a selection of the best trees suitable for the
purpose, had them cut down, hewn into planks,
and transported to San Gabriel, where he framed
the vessel into sections for fitting together. When
this unique work was completed, he conveyed the
many parts down to the beach at San Pedro, and
with great ingenuity assembled them, the result
being a sixty-ton schooner. It was most success-
fully launched and christened ^'Guadalupe,''
amid the cheers of a large number of people who
had gathered from far and near to witness the
event.
From the records of land grants in Santa Bar-
bara County, it would appear that 4,440 acres
were deeded to Jose Chapman in 1838, and sub-
sequently confirmed to his wife, Guadalupe Or
tega de Chapman.
Later, when the first American adventurers
came to Santa Barbara, they found Jose Chap
man, with fair-haired children around him, in
business as a carpenter and millwright, and a
111
SANTA BARBARA
great favorite of the padres. He died in 1858;
many of his descendants still living in Santa Bar-
bara and engaged in commercial activities at the
present time.
^ -^ ^ -t- * ^^- * *
Famous Wedding at Santa Barbara
To Santa Barbara belongs the distinction of
having celebrated within its Mission church, in
1822, with all due pomp and ceremony, the first
great wedding taking place in California during
the Mexican regime, that between Don Luis Ar-
guello, one of the most interesting men in early
California history, and Dona Maria Soledan
Ortega, of the Rancho del Refugio, Santa Bar-
bara.
For months many Indian girls had been busy
making silks and satins into gowns, and fashion-
ing fine drawn-thread work on bedspreads and
undergarments, while a dozen girl friends of the
bride-to-be embroidered the flowers of the coun-
try, particularly the red gold poppy, on various
dainty white garments.
The bridegroom had sent to the City of
Mexico for the customary donas, or presents,
consisting of silk stockings, mantillas, fans, laces,
sashes, high combs bound with gold, pearls from
Baja California, a topaz necklace, a rosary of
amethyst beads, and, most important gift of all,
which if forgotten would have cost him his bride.
112
AND MONTECITO
six camisas or smocks, fine as cobweb, richly em-
broidered and trimmed with precious lace.
The wedding dress of the bride was made in
the prevailing fashion, with long pointed bodice
and full skirt, with a mantilla hiding her blushes
and flowing nearly to her little feet. The bride-
groom w^ore his most gorgeous uniform.
The Rancho del Refugio, where the wxdding
festivities were held, faced the sea, and the guests
from Monterey and San Francisco came by ship,
while those from the ranchos traveled on horse-
back or by carreta, a low wagon made from solid
sections of trees, springless, and drawn by bul-
locks; evidently anything but a comfortable con-
veyance. Among the numerous guests were rep-
resentatives of all the well-known Old California
families, Carrillos, Orenas, de la Guerras, Estu-
dillos, Vallejos, Alvarados, Castros, Picos, Es-
tradas, and more Ortegas; those who could not
be housed even half-dozen in a bed in the great
adobe house met the wedding party at the Mis-
sion, and then rode over for the three days and
nights of dancing and festivity, when beds, no
doubt, were superfluous.
When the happy pair had departed for San
Francisco, the older members of the party said
a governor's wedding in the cathedral of the City
of Mexico could not have been more gorgeous,
but the memories of the younger generation did
not extend beyond the good times they had had in
113
SANTA BARBARA
merrymaking and treading the ''light fantastic
toe."
Calif or nian Indian Musical Instruments',
Songs, Dances and Games.
One of the most popular musical instruments
among the Californian natives was a flute of
elder wood or deer's horn, which was played
like the dulce. It was entirely open from top
to bottom, and made in different sizes. It pro-
duced eight tones perfectly, and on it were
played various tunes, nearly all in one measure,
most of them merry.
They had also another stringed instrument,
consisting of a wooden bow to which a string of
sinew was bound, producing a note.
Their songs, whether happy or sad, were
usually all in the same tone, though sometimes
they would raise and lower the voice in thirds,
fifths, or octaves; they had no idea of part sing-
ing, excepting when many sang together some
would go an octave higher than the rest. Most
of their songs were merry, though some were sad
in parts, but if the song was one of vengeance
or bad wishes — from which many a fight would
result — they would sing and dance at the same
time, speaking ill of those with whom they were
on bad terms, and mentioning their defects, or
anything they knew to their disadvantage.
In dancing, they would stand in a circle, and
without moving from the spot, bend their bodies,
114
AND MONTECITO
move their feet, and make many contortions;
whether this was intended to strengthen their
own courage for the fray, or to frighten their
enemies, history does not say.
One of their favorite sports was playing with
a ball made of hard wood. The Indians belong-
ing to the Presidio would play those from the
Mission, as many as 300 playing at a time; boun-
dary lines were established between the contend-
ing parties, the object being to drive the ball over
the boundary lines of their opponents. Great ex-
citement attended these games, the wooden ball
used often laying out a player as in the modern
games of football or baseball. Many of the
fatigued or injured Indians would afterwards re-
tire to the ^^Temascales" (the Indian Turkish
bath) to heal their bruises or sleep off their
weariness.
In Santa Barbara County the major portion
of the population lived on the ranchos, which
contained anywhere from 5,000 to 50,000 acres,
the owner of each rancho possessing from 1,000
to 10,000 head of horned cattle, and from one or
two hundred to 3,000 or 4,000 horses, broken and
bronco. Money was plentiful, the country pros-
perous, the rancheros were well dressed and
housed, and had an abundance of stores, b(Uh
home produce and imported.
The hospitality at the ranchos was wonderful.
Anyone, stranger or no, could travel the length
lis
SANTA BARBARA
of the country without cost, being furnished with
a fresh horse as every rancho, and leaving the one
previously ridden. To charge a traveler for an}^-
thing received would have been considered the
height of meanness.
Monotonous as was ranch life, social inter-
course and amusements were not wanting. Re-
ligious fiestas were celebrated frequently at the
Mission with much pomp and ceremony, the
most important of these being during H0I3'
Week, and on Corpus Christi and St. John's Day.
Also, on the occasion of a wedding a grand
fiesta would be given either at the rancho or
Mission, to which all were invited. Some of the
guests came many miles, families traveling in
their elaborate carretas, and the beaux taking
the belles before them on their fine saddles, the
young man sitting on the croup with his bridle
arm on the shoulder of his fair passenger, or
round her dainty waist.
These marriage celebrations would last for
three or four days, and after much feasting and
dancing the guests would scatter to their ranches,
where the major-domo and Indian vanqueros
had carried on as if the owner himself had been
present.
Hardly was a child born in Spanish-Cali-
fornia before it was hurried to the priest for
baptism. When eight or ten years of age, it was
often betrothed; and, if a girl, married when
116
AND M O N T E C I T O
thirteen or fourteen. Fathers made the mar-
riage contracts and the wedding festivities were
elaborate.
One of the quaint customs which was always
observed at weddings was to wind a silken tas-
selled string or a silken sash, fringed with gold,
about the necks of the bride and groom, binding
them together as they knelt before the altar.
The bridegroom's present to the bride, or
dona, consisted of at least six changes of raiment,
and on no account did he forget the "camisa.''
Such an oversight would be construed into a per-
sonal insult to the bride, and he therefore sought
these with as much earnestness as the Peri the
gift which was to unlock Paradise. Having
found six which were neither too full nor too
slender, he packed them up daintily, often in
rose-leaves, and sent them to the lady as his last
bridal present.
On the wedding-day, two fine horses, pro-
cured especially for the occasion, were led to the
door, saddled, bridled, and pillioned. The bride-
groom took up before him the godmother, and
the godfather the bride, and tluis they went to
the church, where the priest received them at the
altar. On the return journey, after the cere-
mony, the bridegroom took his bride before him
on the pillion, steadying her in the saddle with
his right hand, and holding the reins in his left,
and thus they returned to the home of the bride's
117
SANTA BARBARA
parents, being generally received with a dis-
charge of musketry. Two persons, stationed at
some convenient spot, would then rush out and
seize the bridegroom by the legs, and before he
had time to dismount, take off his spurs, which
he was compelled to redeem with a bottle of
brandy.
The newly-married couple would then enter
the house,where the near relatives were waiting,
in tears, to receive them, and the parents of the
bride would solemnly bestow their blessing.
Then would commence the dancing and merri-
m^ent, which continued often for three days, with
only brief intervals for refreshment, but none
for sleep, the wedded pair being expected to be
on their feet practically the whole time.
A most charming custom among the middle
nnd lower classes was for the groom to make a
pair of satin shoes for the bride. The Benedict-
to-be approached his betrothed a few weeks be-
fore the wedding, and requested a measurement
of her foot, since it was the invariable rule that
he had to make the shoes with his own hands; it
was then the dutv of the ''best man" to deliver
them to the bride on her wedding-d-ay.
Spanish Calif ornian Dances
Among the many pleasures popular in Span-
ish-California, easily the most popular was the
dance, and more particularly the folk-dance.
AND MONTECITO
The scene might be either a sala indoors, or the
open air; the performers, caballeros with
braided hair, and senoritas with flowing locks;
the instruments, the violin and guitar, the figures,
la jota (danced by four to sixteen couples), la
zorrita, el caballo, el jarabe, and el fandango.
When a lady danced w^ith unusual grace, the
m-ale spectators often showed appreciation by
throwing coins and trinkets at her feet.
The use of cascarones was commonly prac-
tised at all great entertainments, cascarones be-
ing egg-shells filled with finely-cut gold and sil-
ver paper, cologne, or harmless colored water.
Sometimes, prior to the formal opening of the
carnival, on the journey or at the arrival, cas-
carones were broken upon one another, and fre-
quently the sport became so boisterous that the
dresses of the ladies and the faces of the cabal-
leros suffered. At the ball this mirthful play
was frequently dispensed with, but it is related
by travelers that it was the cstom at the dance
for the senoritas to break cascarones of cologne
water upon the heads of their favorites, this often
being an invitation to dance, or a challenge to a
mild flirtation.
The old Spanish serenades, once sung every-
where in C^ilifornia are rapidly disappearing;
the following is probably one of the most beau-
tiful examples of a lover's song:
119
SANTA BARBARA
So Calm the Night
So still and calm the night is,
The very wind's asleep ;
Thy heart's so tender sentinel
His watch and ward doth keep.
And on the wings of zephyrs soft
That wander how they will,
To thee, oh woman fair, to thee
My prayers go fluttering still.
Oh take the heart's love to thy heart
Of one that doth adore!
Have pity — add not to the flame
That burns thy troubadour!
And if compassion stir thy breast
For my eternal woe.
Oh, as I love thee, loveliest
Of women, love me so!
A Country House in the Olden Days
The patio would be full of servants of both
sexes, but principally women, and one wondered
what they all found to do. It would seem, how-
ever, that the mistress of the house had two ser-
vants for her exclusive use, and each child, boy
and girl, had one whose sole duty it was to care
for him or her. Four or five would grind the
corn for the tortillas, and six or seven serve in
the kitchen; nearly a dozen attended to the
sewing and spinning, and five or six were kept
120
AND MONTECITO
busy with the laundry. As a rule, the Indians did
not find it easy to learn more than one duty; the
cook would not wash clothes, and a good washer-
woman considered herself aggrieved if asked to
sew or to spin. No fixed pay was given, the
mistress giving them what was needed; when
sick the servants were cared for; when their
children were born ,the master and mistress acted
as godparents ,and l-ater attended to their in-
struction .
Education was usually the thing about which
the Californian, priest or layman, troubled him-
self least. For girls it usually consisted of
dancing, music, religion, and amiability. One
of the belles of 1840 relates how she went to
school in an adobe house in Santa Barbara,
where a Spaniard taught them many new things,
but when he said the earth was round ,they all
laughed out loud!
Some of the more liberal Californians, how-
ever sent their sons out of the country to be edu-
cated, some to Europe, and some to parts of the
United States.
La Casa de Aguirre
It is a pathetic fact that today very little re-
mains of the old adobe houses reminiscent of thr
early days of Santa Barbara.
Such was that belon^^ing to the Aguirre fam-
ily, which once faced the site of the present
Chamber of Commerce building on Carrillo
121
SANTA BARBARA
Street, and was the scene of many gay festivities.
The old mansion was built under the super-
vision of Don Jose Antonio Aguirre for his bride
elect, Senorita Maria Estudillo, daughter of Jose
A. Estudillo of San Diego, whom he brought
there in 1842.
The house was quadrangular in shape, con-
taining nineteen large apartments, with the usual
patio in the center, and built on a raised stone
foundation. Its spacious rooms, whose deep
windows were set with tiny panes of glass, and
barricaded on the outside with heavy wooden
shutters, were handsomely furnished; the large
sala, some thirty feet long, was filled with fine
furniture, pictures and tapestries, most of which
had been brought from Spain and other coun-
tries There were fine antique tables of rich
woods, sofas and chairs to match; pictures set in
massive gilt frames, rarely seen in those days,
adorned the frescoed w^alls, and three large chan-
deliers with crystal pendants, hung from the
ceiling.
The ample grounds were encircled by a stone
wall which enclosed the well, fruit orchard,
flower and vegetable gardens. The court, the
nucleus of many historic associations, was forty
feet square. The railing and fluted columns,
continuous around its sides, which bordered the
porches fifteen feet in width, were covered with
rare exotics and brilliant tropical climbers. En-
122
AND MONTECITO
trance and exit, excepting through the main
door, and into the store on the southwest corner,
were through this court. Protected alike from
the heat and the wind, and secluded from the
passers by, the family would gather for a social
hour. Guests would take advantage of its
porches for a quiet promenade amid the frag-
rance of flowers and melody of the native birds.
In times of fiestas, anniversaries or balls given
to people of celebrity a canopy shut out the sky
and the court was converted into a large hall.
Sometimes wandering M<7row<7j (Mexican strol-
■•^ii^^A^j^
Casa de Aguirrr
ling actors) acted their various attractions before
admiring audiences. On the ocasion of balls
the Senoras and their daughters appeared in rich
brocades, silk rebosas and antique jewels which
were only brought out of the treasure chests on
notable assemblies. Hither came the Hills, the
us
SANTA BARBARA
Dens, the Carrillos, the de la Guerras, and oth-
ers of social prominence adding honor and dig-
nity by their presence. It is said that the famous
beauty Concepcion Arguello came with the in-
mates of La Casa Grande to partake of the hos-
pitality of those who occupied La Casa Aguirre.
Its owner removing to San Diego in 1850, it stood
for a long time vacant. Early in the civil war, a
local company, the Mounted Rifles, kept their
armory in this house; and later, Capt. Copley, of
the First California Volunteers, used the build-
ing as a barracks while in Santa Barbara. The
first celebration of the Fourth of July, with its
usual program, took place on the front corridor.
On this wide verandah Sherifif Twist assemb-
led his posse when he undertook to eject Jack
Powers and others from the Arroyo Burro under
a process issued by the Supreme Court. During
the fight several men were wounded, Pat Dunn
was killed, the Sheriff severely wounded, and the
ends of justice defeated for the time being. A
compromise to the satisfaction of the interested
parties was effected eventually.
The Sisters of Charity transferred their
school from Las Cienguilla to the Aguirre house
for a short period. In 1846, during the Ameri-
can occupation, Lieut. Col. Fremont was enter-
tained, his headquarters being a short distance
away, on the site now occupied by the artistic
124
AND MONTECITO
edifice of the County National Bank and Trust
Co., of Santa Barbara.
During the Mexican war, Lt. Henry Burton.,
in command of the 1st Battalion of the 1st New
The Court. Casa de Aguirrc.
York Regiment, U. S. A., garrisoned the town
in 1847; he and his ofTiccrs were frc(]ucntly en-
tertained by the Aguirre family. A hiippv re-
sult of this visit was the marriage of one of Lt.
Burton's daughters to n ^on of Don Jose Aguirre.
125
SANTA BARBARA
When the parish church was burned in 1865,
leaving the padre with no place to administer to
his flock, they gathered in the drawing room at
the right of the main entrance.
An Italian named Lobero, who sought relax-
ation in music from real estate deals, used the
house in which to drill his orchestra. He formed
an amateur local opera company, with himself
as manager, director and chief soloist, and made
the old house echo with selections from the great
masters of Italy.
In April, 1868, the public schools gave their
first evening entertainment here, in which eleven
nationalities and nearly every family in the town
were represented. Shortly afterwards, the
ladies of Trinity Church, gave a festival in the
house which netted them the munificent sum —
for those days — of five hundred dollars. The
Rev. E. M. Belts of the First Congregational
Church, was ordained and installed by Dr. Stone,
the silver-tongued orator from San Francisco, in
this building, the people crowding into the court,
the porches, and even taking possession of the
private rooms.
Even elections were held at this central and
now public place, the most noted was that held
for local option in 1874, at which the ladies were
permitted to vote.
It is quite a coincidence that Mr. Janssens
the com padre of Don Jose Aguirre in early
126
AND MONTECITO
days, was the last person to wholly occupy the
house. He kept the post office in the corner of
the house first used as a store, where about 1867.
the mail which was brought overland by stage
or semi-monthly by steamer, was handed out to
the townspeople. With the death of Mr. Jans-
sens the house became deserted and fell into
ruins, and was finally demolished to make w^a\
for the modern dwellings that now occupies this
historic site.
A Thousand Peso Bribe
A. story is told of a visit made by a typical
keen trader of those days to Governor Alvarado,
who happened to be at Santa Bar^ ira, early in
1842.
The trader was anxious to get his goods sold
quickly, without the tediousness of passing the
Customs, so early one morning, in company with
a sailor shouldering a bag containing one
thousand Mexican pesos, a visit was paid to Don
Alvarado.
The approach to the Governor's house was
guarded by a fierce looking soldier, armed with
an antiquated musket; ''No admittace here,"
shouted the sentry, fearing the trader had a bill
to collect, but on being assured it was the other
way about, lowered his musket and permitted
them to enter. A short parley with Alvarado —
who had the itching palm in excelsis, as the
padres at the Mission could tell were they alive
127
SANTA BARBARA
-and the trader departed with the necessary
signed papers for the unloading of his cargo, and
the loading of hides and tallow, without the
usual tardy formalities.
A lady writing of the early days, refers to the
visit of Governor Alvarado, and represents him
as being a full-blooded handsome Spaniard, with
coal-black curly hair, and ^'clad in broadcloth
and whiskers"!! What a sensation he would
make if he could only come back and walk down
the State Street of today!!
Golden Days in Santa Barbara
When gold was discovered in California in
June, 1848, an era of great prosperity dawned
for the ''cow counties" as parts of Southern Cali-
fornia, including Santa Barbara County, were
called. Every bullock was worth a bag of silver
dollars, and the cattle which had been slaugh-
tered for their hides and tallow to be exchanged
for foreign goods, would have brought their
owners great fortunes had they still been alive.
There were, however, still vast herds around
Santa Barbara, and the Guadalupe ranch alone
had 40,000 head. The de la Guerras wath more
than tw^o hundred thousand acres of land had
still more, and it was not uncommon for the
monthly sales of cattle to total many thousands
of dollars.
The simplicity of living practised by the
Californians hitherto was now revolutionized by
128
AND M O N T E C I T O
the sudden wealth that had come to them, and
they appeared to be dazed by the greatness of
their prosperity and like the present day 'Svar
millionaire" had more money than they knew
what to do with. The selection of dress, jewelry,
and furniture, horse-racing, gambling, bull-
fights, cockfights, and all kinds of festivities,
made up their days. Mirth and vanity reigned
over every other sentiment, and life to them was
just one diversion after another.
We are told that the ladies, in those golden
years, never deigned to draw on a stocking less
fine than silk, and the clay floor of the adobe
house was no stranger to the sweep of regal satin;
purple and fine linen were worn regardless of
time, place, occasion or occupation.
The demand for cattle, and the fabulous
prices paid, brought one long gala day to the in-
habitants of Santa Barbara. They moved about
like so many bright birds, the caballeros in their
dashing array, and the senoritas with their re-
bosas of fine silk. There was food for all, and
no thought of want entered their minds.
This delightful state of things continued for
;i few years, but eventually some enterprising
people began importing large herds of cattle into
California from the east; these bullocks could be
purchased in the prairie states at $10 a head and
sold in California at $100 a head, so it was a
profitable occupation. It resulted, however, in
129
SANTA BARBARA
lowered prices, and by 1862, beef was sold in the
mines at two cents a pound, live weight. Cattle
from Santa Barbara, which had to be driven
many hundred miles before reaching the market,
were at a great disadvantage and there was little
demand for them.
With the large numbers on hand and no mar-
ket, an arrangement was made to reduce the
herds by -a w^holesale slaughter; this took place
close to the sea-shore at Montecito, and a hun-
dred thousand cattle were sacrificed, the average
price received for them being $5.00 a head.
This slaughter to a certain extent relieved the
market, but caused great losses. The great
drought in 1863-4 completed the ruin of the
California cattle owners. The great herds were
no more, and Santa Barbara, whose assessment
roll in 1863 showed over two hundred thousand
head of cattle, had less than five thousand to eat
the new grass that grew when the rains came
again in 1864-5.
The great stock owners, who, in many in-
stances, had already become mortgaged on ac-
count of low prices, were completely ruined by
this stroke of ill fortune. Scarcely one was left
with the estate which he had purchased or in-
herited, and their lands passed to far-sighted new
owners who had taken advantage of their neces-
sities to acquire vast tracts for small laans. This
obtains even in these so-called advanced days.
130
AND MONTECITO
In Santa Barbara in the eighties, the Cali-
fornian still rode his fiery steed, and d-ashed
down the main street as if riding a steeple chase,
with young America not far behind. Graceful
ladies, riding side-saddle, galloped fearlessly
along; phaetons, English dog-carts, elegant car-
riages, buck-boards, omnibuses, and country
wagons of various makes and in all states of re-
pair, conveying all sorts of people, drawn by well
and ill-bred horses of all degrees, filed past and
made life most interesting for the tourist of those
days who was fortunate enough to have made t
point of including Santa Barbara in his itinerary.
At that time Santa Barbara was 85 miles
from the nearest Railroad station, Newhall, on
the Southern Pacific.
The Mule Car
An incident typical of the go-as-you-please
days, when tomorrow was more in demand than
today, is that of a still active member of the Com-
mercial Club, who arrived here a very sick ma»
in 1886.
He embarked on the mule car expecting to
land at the Arlington Hotel, paid his nickel to
the driver-conductor, and off they started up
State Street. After going about half a block, the
car stopped and the mules were unhitched, and
the pasesnger after waiting some little time, gol
ofT the car to investigate. Finding the driver
isi
AND MONTECITO
about to start off with the mules, he stopped him
and enquired when the car would proceed on its
journey, and was told '^In an hour or two, as the
mules had to be shod." Asking why he had col-
lected the fare, w^hen he knew he was not going
on, and threatening a report to the management,
the conductor said: "Well, stranger, I need the
nickel, and if you have any report to make you
might as well make it right now; Tm President
and General Manager of this 'ere mule-car, so
there you are."
The owner of the mule-car was Bud McFale
who is now in the furniture line in Reno,
Nevada.
The sick man long ago recovered his health,
and is now in the pink of condition, and a mem-
ber of the School Board.
Advent of Southern Pacific Railrodd
The railroad movement started in 1 868 by the
incorporation of the ''Santa Barbara Branch of
the Southern Pacific Railroad," with some
thirty citizens of Santa Barbara as incorporators,
who proposed to build a road to connect with the
Southern Pacific atl'uhire, and received a grant
of land from Congress. Due to the fact that no
road was constructed, no patents for this grant
were issued, and for the next two years there was
much discussion on the subject, without effect.
In the early seventies, shortly after the com-
SANTA BARBARA
pletion of the Central and Union Pacific roads,
various schemes for other trans-continental rail-
roads were promoted. Two companies, the At-
lantic and Pacific, and the Texas and Pacific,
were organized, and there was much agitation as
~ ■ f^W^^^^^ fi^
Santa Barbara's First Court House in 1871, with Present
Court House in Background.
to which of these would have its terminus at
Santa Barbara, but nothing came of it.
Then a proposal was advanced for a road
from Ventura through Santa Barbara to San
Luis Obispo, and an effort made to have the Leg-
islature authorize an election which had for its
object the issue of bonds to finance the project,
but without success.
134
AND MONTECITO
Finally, the disappointed railroad advocates
proposed to build a road from Santa Barbara to
connect with the Southern Pacific at Newhall,
and while this was the most reasonable proposi-
tion yet advanced, it never got beyond the talk-
ing stage until the Southern Pacific Company
itself constructed the road in 1887 and connected
Santa Barbara with the rest of the world by rail.
Bird's Lye View of Santa Barbara, 1687.
The Boom Days of W^ and 1887
Projects for railroad building were not the
only excitement in Santa Barbara during the
'seventies; a real estate boom, probably the first
of its kind on the Pacific Coast, developed in the
early years of that decade, and for a time exor-
bitant prices were paid for land.
The immediate causes of this were the publi-
cation of several books on the beauties of Cali-
135
SANTA BARBARA
fornia and an advertising campaign carried on
by the Rev. J. A. Johnson, owner of the 'Tress",
who not only filled his paper with information
as to the climate and resources of Santa Barbara
and sent copies to all parts of America, but also
delivered illustrated lectures in the cities of the
east on the same subject.
Also, the prospect of being the terminus of a
trans-continental railway made Santa Barbara
real estate look very attractive to those w^ith
money for speculation, and soon a great influx of
people took place, every steamer from San Fran-
cisco being crowded. It then became so diffi-
cult for the newcomers to obtain lodging that
frequently men had to walk the streets during the
night, private houses w^ere opened, and tempor-
ary beds spread on the floors.
Naturally the price of real estate began to
soar as the volume of travel increased. City
blocks that in 1870 were a drug in the market at
$100 apiece, readily sold for $5,000 or even
more. Gone were the days of land at twenty-five
cents an acre; $100 was a more common figure.
Then, in consequence of the increased popu-
lation, began a building boom, and many substan-
tial structures, among them the old Arlington
Hotel, and a number of business blocks and fine
private residences, indicated a degree of energy
and enterprise remarkable in a community that
in 1870 consisted of less than three thousand peo-
136
AND MONTECITO
pie, two-thirds of whom were Spanish-Califor-
nian.
However, highly colored descriptions of pro-
ductive soils and magnificent climate will not
feed the hungry, and furnish work for the unem-
ployed, and soon the departing steamer took
away as many as the arriving steamer brought,
'i'he boom gradually died, and during the year
1876-7 when but four and a half inches of rain
fell on the land, there was a very marked drop
in prices, not only in city lots but of farm lands
as well.
In spite of the ''boom" the number of inhabi-
tants in Santa Barbara only increased seventeen
per cent between 1870 and 1880, and it was not
until 1885 that a distinctly upward tendency was
observed.
When the Southern Pacific railroad came to
Santa Barbara in 1887, the old "boom" was
revived, and that of 1874 faded into insig
nificancc beside the raise in real estate values
that now took place. Lots purchased todav
were sold at a greatly increased price tomor-
row, and many grew suddenly rich by fortu-
nate deals in property. The most staid and con-
servative citizens caught the fever of speculation,
•and nothing was heard but talk of "lots" and
"sub-divisions." Blocks in the suburbs of four
nnd a hall acres, without streets, water, or light,
sold as high as :f30,()0() or moce. and <>0 per toot
JJ7
SANTA BARBARA
frontage was a common price on unimproved
streets; also, much farm land was subdivided
into city lots, and sold to speculators, who were
eager to unload on someone else at an advance.
The apex of the ^'boom'' was reached on
August 17th, 1887, when the first train arrived
in Santa Barbara. The occasion was declared
a general holiday, and many festivities took
place.
The increased prosperity expected to come
from the inauguration of a railroad service did
not put in appearance, and early in September
came a lull in real estate and many big options
were forfeited. A short time later when the
railroad company had finished the line a few
miles west of the city and the hope of connection
with San Francisco vanished, the ^^boom" was
dead. The wrecking of the mushroom fortunes
left many in a sad plight, and few were as well
off as when the orgy of speculation began.
The depression lasted for about ten years, and
only in the latter 'nineties was there any demand
for real estate. The long delay in connecting
Santa Barbara with San Francisco by rail
caused the former to become a rather sleepy old
town, but when in 1901, this was done, many im-
provements followed, and many fine residences
were built, both in the city and at Montecito.
In 1906, at the time of the San Francisco
earthquake and fire, houses were being built in
138
AND MONTECITO
Santa Barbara at the rate of one a day, but the
calamity so disrupted all enterprise on the Pa-
cific Coast that Santa Barbara suffered with the
rest. Many San Francisco capitalists who had
interests here, lost so much in the fire that they
were unable to carry out their plans, and the
high wages paid workmen in the efforts made to
rebuild the stricken city, drew men from this
part of the country, and construction for a time
was practically at a standstill.
About 1908 some improvement in conditions
was manifest, and real estate values became
firmer. A little later improvements such as the
construction of the San Marcos building, the re-
organization of the street railway system, the
building of the Federal Post Office -and the
erection of the State Normal School, were car-
ried out, and today there is no speculation in land
values, lots being usually purchased with a view
to improvement, and farm lands for use and in-
come.
Origin of Santa Barbara Street Names
The many uncommon names given to the
streets of Santa Barbara no doubt puzzle the
tourist and stranger, but the clue to these lies in
the many events of the past which have been
commemorated in this way, and a great deal of
the city's history may be learned by a study of thr
meaning and derivation of these titles.
Quinientos, tiic name of a street near the
139
SANTA BARBARA
beach, is the Spanish word for five hundred, and
this street was so named in 1852, when Captain
Salisbury Haley made his survey of Santa Bar-
bara. It appears that when Colonel J. D. Stev-
Santa Barbara, 1883
enson's regiment arrived here in 1847, a brass
twelve pounder cannon had been placed on the
beach to be forwarded to the fortifications at
Monterey, but one night some of the Californians
removed it, either throwing it in the sea, or bury-
ing it in the sand. When search failed to pro-
duce it the Californians told the military author-
140
AND M O N T E C I T O
ities that some sailors from the vessel on which it
was intended to send it to Monterey had lost it
overboard from the boat on its way from the
shore, but they were not believed, and the muni-
cipal officers were ordered to restore the cannon,
or pay for it. As the cannon was not forthcom-
ing Governor Mason imposed a fine of $500 on
Santa Barbara, and each one of the property
holders was ordered to pay a certain portion of
this sum, according to his capacity, and in ad-
dition a company of soldiers was sent from Los
Angeles to see that the fine was duly paid. Some,
however, of those assessed refused to pay, and
property to the value of their share was seized
and sold by auction.
San Buenaventura, at the northeast of the
city, is so named because, although thirty miles
away, it was nearest to the village of that
name when the street was made. Pitos Street
was named from the carisos or reeds growin;^
there, from which flutes (pitos) were made;
Punta Gorda, because it ran into a high bank;
Indio Muerto, because an Indian was found
dead in the neighborhood; Cacique, the title
given U) the Chief of an Indian tribe. Carpin-
tcria, because it was on the route usually taken
in going towards the village of that name, the
origin of which dates back to the time when Por-
tola's expedition coming up the coast, found near
the mouth of Rincon Creek a number of Indians,
141
SANTA BARBARA
making canoes, paddles, and other articles of
wood, hence Carpinteria, a wood-working estab-
lishment. Mason St., was named after Governor
Mason, who imposed the above-mentioned fine
of $500. Yanonali St., is named after a famous
old Chief of the Santa Barbara Indians. Mon-
tecito St., points in the direction of the beautiful
valley of that name. Gutierrez is called after
Don Octaviano Gutierrez, once a member of the
City Council. Haley St., was named after Sal-
isbury Haley, who made the famous "Haley
survey." Cota Street, Ortega Street, and De la
Guerra Street were named after famous Spanish
Californian families. Canon Perdido is Span-
ish for hidden canyon, and when the street was
made, such a canyon existed in line with its
northeastern end.
Carrillo St., was named in honor of Don
Joaquin Carrillo, first District Judge after the
organization of Santa Barbara County. This is
one of the eighty foot streets provided by the
Haley Survey, the other being State Street.
Figueroa was named after the famous Governor
Jose Figueroa. Anapamu was named after an
Indian chief whose power extended from Santa
Ynez to San Fernando. Victoria was named
after Governor Manuel Victoria; Sola Street
after Governor Vicente de Sola; Micheltorena
St., from Governor Manuel Micheltorena, and
Arrellaga St., from Governor Jose Joaquin de
142
AND MONTECITO
Arrellaga. Valerio St., was named after a fam-
ous Indian robber chief, who with his band lived
in a cave in the Santa Ynez Mountains. Islay
was the name given to a fruit which the Santa
Barbara Indians were accustomed to eat. Ped-
regosa means ''stony," and was so called because
the Arroyo Pedregosa or ''stony creek" cut
through it. Mission Street, is so called from its
proximity to the Mission of Santa Barbara.
As to the streets running from southeast to
northwest across the city: Salinas St., used to run
into a salt pond; Canada used to run into a Can-
ada or ravine. When Solcdad received its name,
that part of the town was solitary and uninhab-
ited. Voluntario ran into the hill on which Fre-
mont's army of volunteers were camped. Aliso
was named from the alisos or sycamores growing
there. Milpas St., was at one time the sowing
ground of the Indians, "milpa'' meaning a sow-
ing patch. Nopal St., was named from the
prickly pear, or Indian fig, which grew there.
Quarantina St., received its name because some
vessels were once put in quarantine at the foot of
it. Salsipuedes (Sal si puedes "get out if you
can") at one time crossed several ravines and
rough places, rendering traveling very difficult.
Canal, or Channel St., was at one time the first
street on that side going down to the canal or
channel of Santa Barbara. Laguna St., ran into
the lake or lagoon which was formed during the
143
SANTA BARBARyV
rainy season by the backed-up waters of Mission
Creek. Jardinez or Garden St., once ran thi ough
several gardens, among them that belonging to
Captain de la Guerra. Santa Barbara St., was,
oi course, named from the city itself. Anacapa
St., points towards Anacapa Island in the Santa
Barbara Channel; the meaning of this Indian
word is mystery. Chapala St., is named from a
Mexican town, from whence some early settlers
came to Santa Barbara. De la Vina, or Vine-
yard St., was laid out originally through a vine-
yard planted in 1802 by Governor Goycochea.
Banos or Bath St., was so called because it leads
to the bathing beach. Castillo or Castle St., led
to the hill on which was an old Spanish fort,
mounted with cannon. At Rancheria St., there
was once an Indian ^'rancheria" or settlement.
San Pasqual St., commemorates the battle of San ,
Pasqual between the Californians and Ameri-
cans in 1846. San Andres is rather doubtful,
some authorities stating that it takes its name
from Andres Pico who commanded the Califor-
nians at the above-named battle, and who sub-
sequently signed the peace treaty with Colonel
Fremont, though from whence he obtained his
title of San or Saint, is not clear. Chino St., is
supposed to have derived its name from the
"Rancho del Chino" near which the battle of San
Pasqual was fought. Gillespie St., was named
from Captain Gillespie, one of Fremont's right
144
A N D M O N T P: C I T O
hand men and prominent in the battles of San
Pasqual and San Gabriel. Robbins St., was
named after Captain Thomas Robbins, who
came here in 1827, owner of the Las Positas y
Calera ranch, now called the "Hope'' Ranch.
State Street is, of course, the principal street in
Santa Barbara, and is named for the state of
California.
us
AND MONTECITO
PART III
Present Day Santa Barbara — City Government,
Public Utilities — Financial Institutions and
Co77U7ierce — Hotels — Education, Hospitals
and Charitable Organizations — Churches,
Societies and Clubs.
mt
ANTA Barbara, Queen of all
coast cities, by reason of her un-
equalled and charming posi-
tion, is fast becoming renowned
as the home city of the traveled
American and Britisher. Al-
most encircled by picturesque
hills, which are being rapidly
tr.iQSiormed imo residential es-
tates, her situation is superb;
such a combination of moun-
tain and sea is without parallel.
If a map of California be ex-
amined, it will be seen that the
general trend of the coast-line
is from north-northwest to
\ south-southeast; at Point Con-
cepcion it makes a sharp and
sudden turn and runs to Rincon Point below
Santa I)arbara, nearly due east and west. Thus
Santa Barbara faces directly south, but this is
not the only advantage gained from the tiiifi in
the coast-line. The harsh and foggy north and
north-west winds which make the coast north of
Point (\)ncepcion disagreeable, are entirely cut
147
SANTA BARBARA
off from Santa Barbara by the coast range,
between 3,000 and 4,000 feet high which comes
almost to the shore line at Point Concepcion, and
stretches along the coast, but two or three miles
back from it, to Ventura.
These natural advantages give to Santa Bar-
bara its wonderful climate, which though per-
Plaza del Mar and Cabrillo or West Boulevard.
haps equalled, is not surpassed the world over.
Even in the early days of 1793, records show that
a large number of invalids from all parts of Cali-
fornia were sent to Santa Barbara to recuperate
in its soft and invigorating air.
The Santa Ynez chain of mountains form a
background to the city, marking the skyline in no
tortuous manner, but presenting lines of symetry
and grandeur never wearying to the eye. Seen
at any hour of the day, fresh pictures are un-
. folded; as the sun marks his course, the play ot
148
AND M O N T E C I T O
light and shade constantly changes the aspect of
the scene, and even the seasons reveal unsus-
pected differences. In summer, the sunset turns
the mountains to gold, while in autumn, their
rugged peaks are bathed in royal purple.
Though a strictly modern and progressive
city, the old charm of Santa Barbara remains,
as in the days of long ago, when the Spanish-Cal-
ifornian town was simply a point on a badly cut-
up road from San Diego to San Francisco. A
few of her historic and romantic old adobe build-
ings are still in existence today; their owners,
Orenn Studios, East dr la Guerra Slrcc(.
fortunately, not having their commercial in
stincts tof) highly dcvclopcil, have spent thous-
ands of doUars in preserving tliese relics of by
gone days, when the land from IVrii to Alta Cal-
ifornia was under the dominion of Spain.
149
SANTA BARBARA
Transportation facilities have increased won-
derfully since those days; the trans-continental
traveler comes without change in his private car
or Pullman from the far East, the North or
South, or the middle West, while the autoist ap-
proaches Santa Barbara over a sea-level road,
built partly upon a viaduct out of reach of the
surf that dashes against Rincon Point, as it did
in the early days when many a poor wayfarer
was caught by the tide and drowned.
Santa Barbara is the principal trading center
of the County, although situated on its southern
edge, the advent of the automobile having made
this possible. The large property owners in the
rich farming districts and oil fields in the Lom-
poc, Santa Ynez, Los Alamos and Santa Maria
Valleys, reside in, and direct their business op-
erations from here.
The influence of these productive valleys is
strongly felt in the commercial life of the city,
which is its due, since the development of this
back country has been facilitated through the
necessary capital having been supplied by its
progressive and far-seeing business men.
Some day in the near future, the many little
valleys between Rincon on the east and Naples
on the west, will become '^Greater Santa Bar-
bara," since the interests of all these localities
are the same, the climate is nearly identical, and
the growth of the past few years is an indication
of what the future holds in store, and the neces-
sity for expansion.
The artistic value of the suburbs of Monte-
cito and Miramar to Santa Barbara is inestim-
able; wealth has been freely poured out on artis-
150
A N D :vl O N 1^ E C I T O
tic adornment, and it will be lavishly spent in the
future, since no place in the world is more
worthy. : ?ii
In the development of the road plan for
^¥'^
'■"■0' Vi
rtiiii
^
A Cottage at El Encanto Motel, Mission Ridyt-.
Santa Harbara County, the Board of Supervisors
has rcco):^nizcd tliat tliis section is blessed with
one of tlic most ideal climates in the I'nitei]
States. As a result, wealthy people resort liere
151
SANTA BARBARA
from everywhere, some of them to escape the
rigors of the eastern winter, merely tarrying for
a few months, while others have bous;ht and de-
veloped extensive estates costing thousands of
dollars for permanent occupation. With a cit-
izenship of this character, the building of pleas-
ure drives becomes of great importance, for so
keen is the competition -among the counties of
Southern California to secure the winter travel,
w^hich totals millions of dollars yearly, that the
■^■,>f > '■'
i<^t4f^\
\'i^S^iti%iA
City Park From Booth's Point.
county without good roads rapidly falls behind.
Santa Barbara in this respect is unique, and fur-
nishes a splendid example of well-planned and
consistently carried out highway tree-planting.
This policy is in evidence especially around
Santa Barbara, Montecito, Carpinteria and Go-
leta, which have developed into attractive pleas-
ure drives, and here one road particularly com-
pares with any scenic boulevard in the State.
l')2
AND MONTECITO
This road, built mainly by the City of Santa Bar-
bara, climbs up the hills to the north, in an ever-
increasing height, until at the summit one of the
most wonderful views in California is disclosed.
Spread far below, and seeming like some Lilipu-
tian village, is Santa Barbara with its historic
mission, great hotels, handsome homes, and tree-
lined streets, while beyond in the blue expanse
of the ocean, San Miguel, Santa Rosa, Santa
Cruz, and Anacapa Islands, float a few miles off
the coast. To the east are Montecito and Car-
pinteria, almost hidden in the heavy foilage of
trees, while to the west the curving shore line
dims into the distance measured by high bluffs
thrusting out into the sea.
The material advance of Santa Barbara dur-
ing the last decade has been most notable; the
census of 1910 gave the number of the city's
inhabitants as 1 1,569, while that of 1920 gave it
as 20,159 showing an increase of 75 percent.
If the past is any criterion, the increase during
the next decade should be astonishing, since the
demand for homes has never been so great as it
is today. Many new subdivisions are being
opened up, particularly in the Riviera section,
and these are being extensively purchased as res-
idential sites.
A new and exclusive residence district ad-
joining the Riviera, is that of El Cielito (Little
Meaven). This property is being improved
with roads, and will only be sold in lots of five
acres or more. It is the intention of the owners
to sell only to people who will improve the prop-
erty, so that at no distant iiate the entire liillsidc
will be covered with beautiful homes and irar-
1S3
SANTA BARBARA
dens. El Cielito has wonderful views of the
ocean, mountains, and valley, and is connected
with Montecito by the Sycamore Canyon Road.
In the same district is the McAdoo Tract,
which is being rapidly sold and developed. In
the near future, the beautiful foot-hill region of
Santa Barbara will rival the famous Riviera in
Europe in point of beauty and picturesque sur-
roundings.
The park system is unique, and comprises the
Alameda Plaza, the Plaza del Mar, Oak Park,
and Athletic Park.
Alameda Plaza is a beautiful park of ten
acres, located in the heart of the city, having
frontages on Anacapa, Micheltorena, Garden
and Sola Streets, and is reached by the ^^M" car
of the electric street railway.
Oak Park lies at the terminus of the "O" car
line, and is famous for its natural grove of oaks
and sycamores; it is a popular place for picnics,
barbecues, and patriotic gatherings, and a favor-
ite playground of the city children, who, from
their own small contributions, erected a bronze
tablet at the entrance to the memory of the late
Mr. Henry Tallant, who was instrumental in se-
curing the park to the city.
The Plaza del Mar adjoins the handsome
structure called ''Banos del Mar," where all the
delights of sea bathing may be enjoyed; after-
wards, one may sit under the shade of waving
palms, relax, dream or read as fancy pleases, or
revel in the view of the blue sea and the Santa
Barbara chain of Islands beyond.
The Palm Boulevard which extends along
the Neapolitan curve of Santa Barbara's sea
154
AND M O N T E C I T ()
front, is the rendezvous of residents and visitors
without the noise and confusion incidental to so
many Californian seaside resorts. After the
sunset glow has faded, the whole length of the
Palm Boulevard is chan2:ed into a veritable
Pergola. El Encanio Hold.
fairy scene by thousands of lights, and the strains
of music and the hiUaby of the surf complete the
picture.
The Chamber of Commerce has established,
through the energy of its secretary, .Mr. Cliarles
W. Kirk, an auto camp on the coast highway to
the north of the city. It contains a spaciou.^
building, which has every C(^nvenience for cook-
iss
SANTA BARBARA
ing, a laundry equipped with electric washing-
machine, porcelain bath tubs, a Ruud heater, en-
suring constant hot water, shower-baths, sanitary
toilets and lavatories with towels, and is elec-
trically lighted throughout. Even the children
of visiting autoists have been provided for, in
that there are swings and a large box of sand for
them to play in. Then there is a wash stand for
cars, w^ith pit, and an attendant constantly on
duty. All of these privileges are included in
the fee of fifty cents per day per car, regardless
of number of passengers, no extra charge of any
kind being made.
Santa Barbara abounds in beautiful scenic
drives, both for the motorist who enjoys trips of
short duration and the more hardy motorist who
enjoys a days trip over the mountains and along
the sea.
The most famous of the short drives takes one
by the Santa Barbara Mission, the finest of all
the old missions, over the Mission Ridge road
from which can be seen the city lying in the val-
ley below and in the distance the Santa Barbara
Islands, making a picture which can never be
forgotten. From the Mission Ridge the road
leads to what is know^n as the Mountain Drive,
winding in and out of canyon after canyon at ap-
proximately the same level until it comes out in
the beautiful Montecito Valley famed for its
beautiful drives and lovely estates. Any number
of ways may be pursued through this beautiful
spot and the return trip can be made by way of
the Ocean Boulevard to the place of starting.
For the motorist who wishes to travel further
156
AND MONTECITO
afield, the San Marcos Pass offers a trip unex-
celled for beauty of scenery, with Santa Barbara,
the Goleta Valley, the Pacific Ocean and the is-
lands on one side and the ragged cliffs of the
Santa Ynez river on the other leading to the
valley of the Santa Ynez where is located the
historical Santa Ynez Mission amidst fertile
farming country.
Automobile Club of Southern Cnlifornia.
From Santa ^'ricz the road passes through tlic
thriving little town of Los (^livos over what is
known as the Foxcn Canyon road to Santa Maria
the most northerlv citv in Santa Barbara Countv.
157
SANTA BARBARA
The return trip can be made by way of the State
Highway and the historical Gaviota Pass, along
the sea shore to Santa Barbara. The entire trip
covers about 150 miles and should not be missed.
Another beautiful trip for a day's outing is
over the Cacitas Pass to the Oj-ai Valley, return-
ing by way of the Rincon Sea Level Highway, a
paved boulevard, which follows the ocean for
mile after mile. This trip is also one which will
never be forgotten by the motorist w^ho enjoys
beautiful scenery.
There are any number of trips which can be
planned for the motorist and that is one of the
functions of the Automobile Club of Southern
California, which in 1919 issued 68,173 maps to
members and visitors covering motor trips
throughout California.
The above sketch of the club office show^s that
a very successful effort has been made to carry
out the Mission type of architecture so typical of
Santa Barbara. Here are furnished rest rooms
for the motorist, and here he receives road maps,
touring information, insurance at cost on his au-
tomobile, and many other services, for the Club's
motto is ''Service."
The ''Clifif Drive" in and about Santa Bar-
bara is one of the most picturesque in the world.
Starting from the sea front, it avoids the business
portion of the city, working its way through the
shaded streets, lined with flower embowered
homes, until the limits of the municipality are
reached. Thence it skirts the low hills between
rows of pepper, eucalyptus, orange and palm
trees, then winds among orchards of orange.
158
AND MONTECITO
plum and walnut trees for nearly two miles
further. Here it swerves sharply to the left, and
entering an avenue of frouded palms, opens on a
scene as alluringlv beautiful as anv to be found
on the Continent. This is the entrance to Hope
Ranch, a domain of more than two thousand
acres. The ''Drive" extends for several miles
through this property, twisting between the hil-
locks and creeping up the canyons until it rises
to the top of the ''Palisades," as the superb cliff
frontage on the sea is called. Along this bold
\T-\,~
y.
Residence of Major John \\. H. [•'cslune.
headland, with the broad Pacific in the one hand
and the swelling slopes of the ranch lands on the
other, it wends its way back to the city. It is
from the latter portion of the route that the
famous driveway takes its name.
Santa Barbara Bay has much in common
with the famous Bay of Naples, which it greatly
resembles in contour, hut its surroundings arc
even more beautiful From the lighth'Uisc,
1S9
SANTA BARBARA
which stands like a white sentinel at Point Santa
Barbara, eastward to Rincon Point, the shore
sweeps in a circle of uniform curve, extending
fifteen miles, now with wave-kissed sandy shore,
then rising into low palisades, that skirt mesas
covered w4th oak and sycamore trees.
The Bay opens to the wide channel of Santa
Barbara, some
seventy miles i n
length, with a
width of from
twenty- five to thir-
ty miles. Its water
maintains a won-
derfully even tem-
perature, the dif-
ference being but
ten degrees the
year round; the
breezes passing
over its surface
serve to cool in
summer and warm
in winter the love-
ly Santa Barbara
Valley.
For yachting and boating the Santa Barbara
Channel offers the finest stretch in the world,
with ample sea room, yet so protected by the
mountainous island chain on the south and the
elevated shore of the mainland on the north, as
to be entirely safe at all times. Fishing in the
Santa Barbara Channel is a feature that appeals
to sportsmen, and some wonderful catches are
made.
Residence of Carl Oscar Borg.
160
AND MONTECITO
Santa Barbara stands pre-eminent for sea
bathing facilities over any other sea coast town
in California. The water is of so mild a tem-
perature that an ordinarily healthy person can
enjoy a dip in the sea every month in the year.
Sheltered as the harbor is on all sides, it is a rare
exception for the sea to be rough or the breakers
at all high. Twenty-nine days out of the thirty
(with the exception of February) the sea is a's
smooth as a mill-pond, and the most timid bather
need have no fear of battling with the surf; the
bete notr of the swimmer, the undertow, is ab-
sent. The slope of the beach is so gradual that
the bather can wade out quite a distance without
getting out of his depth. The highest tempera-
ture of the water has been 66 degrees in the mid-
dle of the summer, and in the winter has never
fallen below 59 degrees, the latter figure being
but rarely reached.
To use a well-known citizen's phrase: ''Santa
Barbara must be beautiful, for she pleases dailv,
outlasts novelty, survives long knowledge and
scrutiny of years."
''Inner Harbor'' Project
There are many points of similarity between
St. Peter Port, Guernsey, the most picturesque of
the English Channel Islands, and Santa Barbara,
and before the inner harbor and promenade at
St. Peter Port were constructed, the similarity
was even greater. Both have charms in common,
but give Santa Barbara an inner harbor and
promenade, and her growth would more than
double in the next decade. She would also at
161
SANTA BARBARA
tract a larger number of permanent homeseekers,
and because of the added attraction of a prom-
enade and yachting, visitors would remain for
longer periods.
Following are the details of the "Inner Har-
bor project: —
Santa Barbara Harbor is an open roadstead.
A wharf extends from the foot of State Street for
about 1,200 feet; there is 26 feet of water at the
end of this wharf at low tide, and the United
States Government engineers have stated that in
normal seasons vessels can lie here for 360 days
in the year.
Owing to the outlying mountainous islands,
the fetch of the sea is only 26 miles, but a semi-
enclosed harbor of refuge would make the city
an ideal place for the yachtsman.
It has been proposed to take the beautiful
harbor of St. Peter Port, Guernsey, as a model.
The exposure at Santa Barbara is much less, for
storms never occur from April to November.
At St. Peter Port the area enclosed is 73
acres. At Santa Barbara a mole extending 700
feet out from Castle Rock point, thence a break-
water about 2,500 feet long parallel with the
shore line extending nearly to the wharf, would
enclose 100 acres.
Such an improvement would afford still
water bathing at the present bath house, with i
good surf beach west of Castle Rock. There
would be a fine fair-w^eather walk along the top
of the breakwater, with 24 feet of water for
mooring ground inside, perfectly safe in all
weathers.
162
AND MONTECITO
The construction could be undertaken on a
progressive plan, the mole to be built first and
the breakwater later, on the unit basis, each unit
to consist of one or more re-enforced concrete
caissons, built on the shore, launched like a ship,
floated to position, filled with rock, and finally
decked.
Harbor, St. Peter Port, Guernsey.
Such harbor works are now in existence at
many ports all over the world. There are some
fine examples built during the past two years on
the Great Lakes.
A unique opportunity is here presented for
some public-spirited man to carry this project
to a successful conclusion, and to build himself t
monument for all time.
City Government
When Santa Barbara was a Spanish pueblo
its affairs were administered by an Ayuntamicnto
consisting of an Akakie and two Rcgiciores, cor-
responding to a Mayor and Council.
By an act of the Legislature of the State of
California, it became a City on April 9, 1850,
and Luis T. Burton was the first President of the
SANTA BARBARA
Board of Trustees then elected. In 1851, Joa-
quin Carrillo became the first Mayor.
In 1874, a new charter went into effect, and
at the first election thereafter Mortimer Cook
was elected as Mayor. After 1876 the Mayor's
term was extended to two years.
Another new charter came into effect, after
being submitted to the electors at a special elec-
tion in September, 1915. Under this charter all
the powers of the City are vested in a Council of
five members, except as may otherv\'ise be pro-
vided, and this Council elect one of their num-
ber to serve as Mayor for a term of two years.
The only compensation allowed members of the
Council is a fee of $5 for each meeting actually
attended, not exceeding three meetings in one
month; all meetings of the Council and all its
records are open to the public, and any citizen
has the right personally or through counsel to
present grievances or offer suggestions for the
betterment of municipal affairs. Any citizen
having a vote has the right to have his name
placed upon the official ballot at a general or
special election, by filing with the city clerk a
petition accompanied by a fee of $10, and signed
by not less than one and not more then two per
cent of the number of electors registered at the
last general municipal election; this must be
done not less than twenty days before the date of
election.
The Council appoint the following executive
officers and boards: — Manager, clerk, treasurer,
auditor, assessor, tax-collector, police judge,
board of water commissioners, board of park
164
AND MONTECITO
commissioners, library trustees, and board of ed-
ucation. Those appointed by the City Manager
include: — Purchasing agent, engineer, superin-
tendent of streets, superintendent of water dis-
tribution, chief of police, chief of fire depart-
ment, board of health, and inspector of build-
ings; the city attorney being appointed by the
manager with the approval of the Council.
All appointive officers and members of
boards whose terms of service are not specified,
serve at the pleasure of the appointive power.
The City Manager is the administrative head
of the municipal government, and it is his duty
to see that all laws and ordinances of the City are
enforced; he attends all meetings of the Council,
keeps the Council fully advised of the business
and financial condition of the City, and its future
needs; he also prepares a budget of the estimated
needs of all departments under his control.
All books and accounts of the City are
audited annually by a certified public account-
ant, chosen by the Council.
The City Council or any officer with appoint-
ive power is prohibited from appointing to a
lucrative position under the municipal govern-
ment any person who is a relative by blood or
marriage within the third degree.
Powers are reserved to the people to adopt
or reject ordinances at the polls independent of
the Council.
The Mayor of the City is Harvey T. Niel-
sen; Councilmen: 'I'itus Duncan, j. E. Sloan,
G. M. McGuire, and S. L. Buck; the City .Man-
ager is F. L. Johnston.
16S
SANTA BARBARA
The Health Department of the City includes
a Pathological Laboratory, which has proven of
inestimable value, not only to the Health Depart-
ment, but to the public in general, and the medi-
cal profession in particular. The laboratory
tests on an average five samples of water a week,
and issues warnings to the public if any contam-
ination is found.
The Health Department also makes inspec-
tions of dairies, restaurants, bakeries, and meat
markets; in addition nearly 2,000 miscellaneous
inspections are made in the course of the year.
The Health Officer is Dr. O'Banion, and the
City Physician Dr. Robert W. Hartwell.
Any needy person requiring medical atten-
tion, and unable to pay for it, can obtain an order
from the Superintendent of the Associated Char-
ities, and receive free treatment from the City
Physician. In this way, hundreds of cases have
been attended, both in their homes and in the
hospitals.
In an effort to reduce infant mortality, a Baby
Clinic has been established, to which mothers
can bring their babies for expert assistance, and
the results have been most encouraging.
It is a well-recognized fact that the best
Police Department is the one which maintains
law and order with the least number of arrests,
and that it is a matter of greater credit to arrest
crime than to arrest criminals; in the Santa Bar-
bara Police Department, these principles are
carried out, under the efficient leadership of
Chief W. J. Wall.
According to the last report of the Depart-
166
AND MONTECITO
ment, every automobile stolen from the City has
been recovered, and a large number of stolen au-
tomobiles brought here from other places have
been captured and restored to their owners; in
addition, out of a total property loss reported to
the police of $11,797.70, recoveries amounted to
$10,885.75, which constitutes a record for any
Police Department.
The Santa Barbara Fire Department was
first organized in 1874, with -a volunteer com-
pany, and the following year a ''Hook and Lad-
der" company was formed.
Conditions have changed much since then,
and today the Fire Department, with its up-to-
date apparatus and efficient men, sets an example
to other communities. The members, in addi-
tion to their ordinary duties, save the taxpayers
money by executing repairs to City property, a
case in point being the re-equipment of the City
Jail, where heating, sewage and ventilation ar-
rangements were carried out
The Chief Engineer of the Fire Department
is A. H. Cooley.
A Perfect Water System
To Comandante Jose Francisco Ortega is due
the credit of having established the first water
supply to Santa Barbara; early in 1790, he built
an a(]ucduct to convey water from Mission Creek
to the Presidio, their former supply having been
brought from the de la (nierra Springs.
After the establishment of the Mission, a por-
tion of the wnter was re(]uired there, nnd the re-
167
SANTA BARBARA
mainder was conducted in a ditch to the Presidio,
continuing to flow there long after the Presidio
was in ruins.
The Mission authorities, in 1872, conveyed
to the Mission Water Company all their rights
to the waters of Mission Creek, reserving suffic-
ient for their own use, and the new Company
laid a system of pipes into the town, which had
previously been dependent upon wells for its
domestic supply.
In time, owing to the growth of the town, new
arrangements had to be made, and artesian wells
were sunk adjacent to the de la Guerra Springs,
near Ortega and Garden Streets. As these wells
w^ere developed, they soon supplied more water
in summer than the Mission Creek, so an amal-
gamation of the water interests was formed un-
der the name of the Santa Barbara Water Com-
pany.
In 1896, the question of an ample municipal
water supply became urgent, and Mr. E. S.
Sheffield brought before the City Council a pro-
ject for boring a tunnel into the Santa Ynez
mountains. An appropriation of $10,000 was
made, and the result of this, and further appro-
priations, was a tunnel 5,000 feet into the moun-
tains, which developed a daily supply of 300,000
gallons.
Daring minds, looking into the future, then
suggested bringing the Santa Ynez River to
Santa Barbara; despite opposition, work was
commenced on a tunnel through the Santa Ynez
Mountains, which when completed in 1912 after
nine years work, had a bore 19,560 feet long, con-
ies
AND MONTECITO
Crete lined where not driven through solid rock.
The mouth of the tunnel is 1,185 feet above sea
level, and half that altitude above the highest
point within the city limits. This means devel-
opment of the higher levels within the city, and
eventually its suburbs; it also means the develop-
ment of enormous electrical energy, there being
at least five power sites within the territory em-
braced by city holdings.
^1»
t,--.-._.-_-V-..(,
State Street. Santa Barbara, 1920.
The first days of October, 1919, saw the com-
pletion of the Gibraltar Dam undertaking,
which is the key to the city's unlimited water
supply. It is a concrete structure, rising to a
height of 150 feet above the bed of the Santa
Ynez iliver, and its foundation is in solid rock
for 25 feet below. The core wall is 75 feet thick
at its base, and contaiFis 53,000 cubic yards of
concrete. The dam is provided with a spillwav
280 feet in length, 10 feet deep, and the flood
169
SANTA BARBARA
water that can pass over this before even the
crest of the dam is reached far exceeds the
measurements of the great freshet of 1914, which
showed a maximum flow of 20,000 cubic feet per
second, but even should the spillway fail to pass
the water, the flood could sweep over the Dam'«
crest without damage. The capacity of the pipe
line to the south portal is 26,000,000 gallons per
day, that of the pipe line south portal to surge
chamber 16,000,000 gallons per day, that of
power house to Sheffield Reservoir 9,000,000
gallons per day. The present domestic con-
sumption of 3,000,000 gallons per day flowing
from the surge chamber to the Sheffield reser-
voir, will develop 1,125,000 kilo-watt-hours per
annum, which is about three times the amount
now used by the city for street lighting and sew-
age pumping. A constant flow of 6,000,000 gal-
lons per day, which is a safe output for the pres-
ent reservoir, will develop 2,500,000 kilo-watt-
hours per annum, which if sold at 3-4 of a cent
per kilo-watt-hour at the switch board, will
bring $18,750 per annum. Additional power
can be developed from this flow by carrying the
surplus tail water from the power house one and
one half miles down Mission Creek and using it
a second time under a head of 350 feet.
At the back of the reservoir is a catchment
area of more than 200 square miles, lying wholly
within the boundaries of the National Forest,
and protected from pollution by the Forest
Rangers.
Gibraltar Lake, covering an area of 380 acres
has an average depth of 42 feet, and a capacity
170
AND MONTECITO
of five billion gallons. This beautiful sheet of
water has come into existence by empounding the
waters of the Santa Ynez River, until they reach
the top of the spillway of the great concrete con-
struction which the Water Department of the
city has thrown across the river, at a point where
nature had left rocky precipices, as though to
aid the engineer in his task. Close to the shore
1
M
U-
i| V'
i)
•'vies;
Federal Building and Post Office, Santa Barbara.
of the lake is one of the most beautiful trails in
the Santa Barbara National Forest, and well
worth the hike over the mountains to visit.
What effect the lake will have on the climatic
conditions in the immediate vicinity is a ques-
tion which has been much discussed bv the For-
est Rangers and persons familiar with tlie
mountains. While some insist that the river
valley near Gibraltar Lake will be cooler, others
believe that the valley wind currents are too
171
SANTA BARBARA
Strong to be appreciably tempered by an arti-
ficial body of water.
In addition to the Gibraltar Dam, the city
owns 4,600 acres covering the sites of the Mono,
Blue Canyon, Juncal, and Main River Reser-
voirs, lying within the great cachment area de-
scribed above. These reservoir sites are of future
value as the growth of the city requires their de-
velopment for additional storage.
If in the future Santa Barbara should require
more water than can be furnished by the present
capacity of the Dam, the core wall can be ex-
tended another section, and twice the quantity
be obtained; also by building dams on the addi-
tional sites before mentioned, the amount of
water storage would be so immense that the most
dense population, spread over the largest possi-
ble area this side of the mountains, could be pro-
vided for without any fear of a series of dry
years.
Future work in connection with the water
project includes the building of a wagon road
over the mountains to Gibraltar Dam. This will
cost about $150,000. Such a road will be re-
quired over which to haul materials for raising
the height of the present core wall at Gibraltar,
and building other dams as the need demands.
A permanent fireproof roof will be placed over
Sheffield reservoir.
To James R. Chapman, Chairman of the
Board of Water Commissioners, under whose di-
rection the water project has been brought to a
successful completion, Santa Barbara will al-
ways owe a debt of gratitude. He has unselfishly
172
AND M O N T E C I T O
and without recompense devoted his great en-
gineering talents unstintedly to the task of sur-
mounting the difficulties attendant on the devel-
opment of a great and permanent supply of
water to the city.
Mr. Chapman is a member of the leading
engineering societies of this country and abroad.
After a strenuous career in this country as a rail-
road builder, which included the construction of
the Denver and Rio Grande, and other lines, he
was summoned as chief engineer of the great en-
terprise which provided London with its sub-
ways. He resided there for nine years, and on
completion of his difficult undertaking, he re-
tired, and returning to this country selected
Santa Barbara as his permanent home.
The water system of Santa Barbara, as now
perfected is the embodiment of concerted effort
on the part of its citizens, continued over a
period of twenty-five years. It is unique, and
stands alone as an example and education to
other communities, since in proportion to the size
of the city ,it has no equal in the West.
The Superintendent of the Water Depart-
ment is V. E. Trace, who reports the consump-
tion of water to be as follows :
Municipal purposes, 40,000,000 gallons, con-
sumers 760,000,000 gallons.
The Santa Barbara National Forest is the
largest national forest in Southern California.
It includes the eastern and western divisions of
Pine Mountain and Zaca Lake Forest Reserva-
tion, the Santa Ynez Forest Reserve and the old
Spanish grant "Los Prietos y Na jalayegua." The
173
SANTA BARBARA
reservation contains about two million acres of
mountain lands, for the most part covered with
chaparral.
The street car system is thoroughly modern,
and is operated by the Santa Barbara and Subur-
ban Railroad Co. There are three lines, all
starting from the Plaza del Mar, the ''M" Line
running to the Old Mission, the ''O" Line to Oak
Park, and the Haley Street Line. In addition,
there is a line of buses running to Salinas Street
and HoUister Avenue.
Motor-buses are also operated to Montecito
by the Lloyds' Transportation Co., 436 State
Street, and to Goleta operated by Henry Spreitz,
636 State Street
The City Engineer and Street Superintend-
ent is Geo. D. Morrison. His department, with
its asphalt paving plant, has been able to elimin-
ate the disagreeable feature of having to wait
until there is sufficient work to make it worth
while to employ a contractor; in consequence,
the streets of the City are kept in good condition.
A fully equipped street grading plant is also
maintained, as well as a sewage disposal plant.
The telephones of the City are under the
control of the Santa Barbara Telephone Com-
pany, which maintains an efficient local and
long-distance service.
The Santa Barbara Electric Company main-
tains offices at 918 State Street. The hydro-elec-
tric power is developed 250 miles away in the
High Sierras, and in conjunction an auxiliary
steam plant is maintained in Santa Barbara in
case of emergency.
174
AND MONTECITO
The number of consumers is 7,400; 154 elec-
trical ranges, and 107 water heaters have been in-
stalled.
The Southern Counties Gas Company of
California are the successors to the original Gas
Company of Santa Barbara, and commenced op-
erations under the management of Frank H.
Bivens, in March, 1919, at 16 E. Canon Perdido
Street. They supply 5,355 consumers, and
20,000,000 cubic feet of gas is used monthly.
The Santa Barbara Free Public Library
owes its beginning to several sources. In 1870
Dr. Harry W. Bellows of All Souls' Unitarian
Church, New York, sent out a box of two hun-
dred books and wrote to Miss Sara A. Plummer :
^Mt is a happy thought to take up the work of es-
tablishing a public library." This enterprise
became a combination of public and circulating
library and literary center. In the course of a
few years a collection of books, some two thous-
and volumes, was purchased from the Odd Fel-
lows and for a time, served the needs of the city.
But in 1882 Santa Barbara took steps to establish
a free public library, supported by taxation.
Victor Hugo says: ^'A library is an act of
faith.'' The story of our library is indeed a
?tory of faith; faith in the hearts of men like Dr.
S. B. P. Knox, Hugh Vail, H. K. \\'inchestcr,
Dr. L. N- Dimmock, Judge W. A. White and E.
S. ShcOlchi; men whose interest and vision
prompted gifts of money, books and time that the
library might have an auspicious beginning.
The first library occupied rooms in the Odd
Fellows' building. It was moved to more com-
17S
SANTA BARBARA
modious quarters in the Clock building in Oc-
tober, 1884, and in May, 1891, took possession of
its own building on Carrillo Street, now the
Chamber of Commerce.
Through twenty- five years, the w^ork of the
library steadily increased until the old building
became inadequate and in August, 1917, the new
Library was opened for use.
The building is in the style of the Spanish
Renaissance, presenting a facade unbroken ex-
cept with an entrance arch, while each of the
sides consists of great windows, expressing the
large reading room. Only the furniture and use
divide this room, which is 134x78 feet. To the
right is the children's section; beyond is the de-
partment of ready reference; in the center of the
room are the current magazines and the whole
left end is a book room, having a mezzanine floor
over its area. By the windows of the book room
is a ^^browsing strip" comfortably seated for
those who wish to read in the north light. Open-
ing out of the main room is the stone-paved cano-
pied reading court.
The plastered walls and ceilings in all the
rooms are decorated in soft ivory tones harmon-
izing with the rich texture of the oak. Particu-
lar attention has accomplished a soft effective
reading light both by day and at night.
The cost of the building with site and fur-
nishings is approximately $100,000.00* The
Carnegie donation to the building was $50,000.
Henry Harnbostel of New York was the con-
sulting architect, and Francis W. Wilson of
Santa Barbara, the architect of the building.
176
AND M O N T E C I T O
The first annual report g-ave the total number
of volumes as 3,473 with a circulation of 5,633;
the thirty-eighth annual report, for the year end-
ing June, 1920, showed that the 65,188 volumes
of the Library had a circulation of 241,028.
The Library serves all the residents of Santa
Barbara County. In 1910, the County Depart-
ment was established under contract with the
Board of Supervisors. Twenty-seven Branches
are maintained in the County towns and sixty-
one Branches in schools.
The Library is affiliated with the State Lib-
rary at Sacramento from which books not in our
collection may be obtained upon special request.
The development of the Library is the prooi
of faithful service by successive boards of trus-
tees and many different staff workers; the gener-
osity of many donors of books; the co-operation
of newspapers of city and county; the confidence
and interest of city councils and county super-
visors and the substantial and intelligent reading
of our people.
The librarian in charge is Mrs. Frances B.
Linn.
Newspapers
The Morning Press, Santa Barbara's one
morning newspaper, is the oldest publication in
Southern California. It is a member of l^ic
Associated Press which serves it with a full niirht
report of the world's news over its own leased
wire, in addition, The MorniFig Press is repre-
sented in the neighboring towns and communi-
ties by its own special correspondents.
177
SANTA BARBARA
It is Republican in politics and constructive
in policy. The constant aim of its publisher,
Reginald G. Fernald, a native of Santa Barbara,
is that The Morning Press shall be fearless, ac-
curate, unbiased and interesting in the presenta-
tion both of news and comment on current events.
The Press was established as a weekly in
1863 and as a daily in 1872. The first number
of the Daily Press consisted of four pages of
three columns each. In 1920 the daily edition
ranges from eight to sixteen pages and the Sun-
day edition up to twenty-six pages.
Many men of distinction have contributed
to the upbuilding of the paper. Among those
who at various times directed its policies were
General Harrison Gray Otis, Colonel W. W.
HoUister, Stephen McGlashan, California his-
torian, and R. Cameron Rogers, author of ^'The
Rosarv."
The Daily News and Independent, Santa
Barbara's only evening nevrspaper, is a merger
of the Daily Independent, having a history of
forty years behind it, and the News which wns
started twenty-six years ago.
In 1878 Fred. A. Moore, B. W. Keep and E.
Boust started the Democrat, a weekly, with War-
ren Chase as editor. In 1880 Keep took over
the paper, and joining in a partnership with G.
P. Tebbetts, they changed the name to the Inde-
pendent, and began issuing daily. Mary G. F.
Wood was editor, and Frank Sands reported.
Keep and Tebbits continued as publishers of
the Independent until 1890, when William La
Vies took the Independent over under a mortg-
178
AND MONTECITO
age. In 1894 Sands and Tebbits started the
Daily News. La Vies conducted the Independ-
ent for several years, finally leasing the paper to
Clio L. Lloyd, at present Santa Barbara County's
assessor, and Charles Donahue, now a resident
of San Francisco. La Vies finally took over the
Independent again, and conducted it until his
death in 1900.
In July of that year the Independent was
bought by Thomas INI. Storke, who continued as
editor and publisher, with C. A. Storke as edi-
torial writer, until May 1910, when he sold the
Independent to Fred. A. Sherman, a newcomer
from Port Huron, Michigan. Frank Sands con-
tinued to publish the Daily News until May,
1913, when the paper was bought by Thomas M.
Storke, and in August of the same year Mr.
Storke bought the Independent, and consoli-
dated the two papers under the n^me of the
Daily News and Independent.
Democratic in its politics the newspaper is
independent in its policies. When the two news-
papers were consolidated they had a combined
circulation of 3,000, which on November Isi,
1920 had increased to 5,500, and extended to all
sections of the county. The paper carries the
full Associated Press service, and has the most
complete newspaper plant north of Los Angeles
or south of San Jose.
The home of the Daily News and Independ-
ent is unicjue. The buihling ()\vn{Hl by the pub-
lisher is one of the few rcmainin<r adobes of earlv
Spanish days. It was the home of the Santa
P)arbara Gazette, the fir<t newspaper issueil ifi
179
SANTA BARBARA
Santa Barbara, long since defunct, and before
becoming the Gazette building witnessed many
a brilliant Spanish social gathering. It is said
that the building, which is splendidly preserved,
was at one time the leading gambling house of
the pueblo, and that the young blades of the
period saw many -a fortune won or lost on the
turn of chance.
Financial Institutions and Commerce
There is no city in the United States with a
population of 20,000 which has banking facilities
superior to those in Santa Barbara. This is
largely due to the character of the permanent
population, and the wealthy class of visitors who
make their homes here for part of each year.
Every accommodation that banking houses of
New York or any other metropolis can offer, is
available here.
A characteristic of the banks of Santa Bar-
bara has been their conservative management,
which has won the steadfast confidence of the
citizens. During the famous panic of 1893,
when every bank but one in Los Angeles closed
its doors, and many banks in San Francisco sus-
pended, there was not even a ripple of distrust,
or any indication of a ^^run".
The combined resources of the banks in
Santa Barbara on June 30th, 1920, amounted to
$17,476,808.35.
Below is given a brief history of each institu-
tion, as a matter of interest and reference.
The First National Bank of Santa Barbara
was the first bank in Santa Barbara County, and
180
AND MONTECITO
commenced business as a private bank in the year
1871 under the name of The Bank of Mortimer
Cook in a small and unpretentious building near
the corner of State and Carrillo Streets.
In 1873 it was incorporated as The First Nat-
ional Gold Bank, with Mortimer Cook as Presi-
dent and A. L. Lincoln as Cashier.
In 1880, the bank dropped the word ''Gold"
from its name and became The First National
Bank of Santa Barbara. At this time, too, the
records of the bank became simplified, as under
the old system each customer kept two accounts,
one a Currency Account and the other a Gold
Account.
From its original location The First National
Bank moved to a site just above Ortega Street on
State Street; in 1880 it moved to its present lo-
cation, on which the handsome building it now
occupies was erected in 1912-13.
The First National Bank is the oldest national
bank south of San Francisco and the third nat-
ional bank in the State of California, and has
been a prominent factor in the history of the City
of Santa Barbara.
The ollicers are: — S. A. Kccnev, President,
H. P. Lincohi, Vice-President, J. D. Lowsley,
Vice-President and Cashier, [\ E. Hodges, Vice-
President and Trust Olliccr.
The County National Bank and I'rust Com-
pany of Santa Barbara, was organized as the
Santa Barbara County i^uik under the state law
on July 26, 1S7.V The lirst board of directors
ccjnsisted of A. L. McCurdv, A. Garhuid, fohn
Kdwards, Win. A. White, W. M. Kddy, j. F.
Morris, and S. R. W'cldon. W. M. Kddy was
181
SANTA BARBARA
the first president and E. S. Sheffield was the
first cashier. The capital stock was fixed at
$100,000.
On the 21st of February, 1880, the institution
became a national bank. Mr. Eddy was presi-
dent until his death in 1904, and was succeeded
by Mr. Sheffield, who died in 1905; Mr. Chas.
A. Edwards then became president, being suc-
ceeded by Mr. James M. Warren in 1920.
In 1916, to fill a growing need, a trust com-
pany was formed in connection with the bank,
and the name changed to The County National
Bank and Trust Company of Santa Barbara, and
the capital surplus increased to $500,000.
The bank commenced business in a building
in lower State Street between Ortega and Cota,
but in 1881 removed to its present location at the
corner of State and De la Guerra Streets. Shortly
it will take up its quarters in the new building
now being erected at the corner of Carrillo and
State Streets.
It is not usual to figure artistic values as an
asset to a financial institution, but in this case the
directors have given a distinct asset to Santa Bar-
bara in the erection of a building that not only
recalls the early days, but is an adornment that
will attract the attention of the stranger, and in
all probability his account.
The Commercial Bank was incorporated
August 15, 1887 with John H. Redington as pres-
ident, its banking quarters being located on the
corner of State and Victoria Streets. In 1890
Geo S. Edwards succeeded as president Geo. W.
Coffin and a second home was erected in a more
182
AND MONTECITO
central location, 826 State Street. This building
was occupied until 1903 when a larger and more
commodious banking house was built on the cor-
ner of State and Canon Perdido Streets. Changes
were m-ade in the interior of this new building
several years after to accommodate the bank's
rapid growth.
In 1920 a new building was erected twice the
size of the old, giving ample accommodations
for the requirements of the bank, which changed
its title to Commercial Trust and Savings Bank,
with branches at Lompoc and Carpinteria.
In 1919, Mr. Geo. S. Edwards was elected
Chairman of the Board and Mr. Alfred Ed-
wards succeeded him as President, Mr. John S.
Edwards becoming Cashier.
The Central Bank and Central Savings Bank
were organized in March, 1903, the capital stock
of the Central Bank being fixed at $50,000 and
the savings department at $10,000.
A. H. McKay was chosen first president, and
W. B. Metcalf, who, up to that time had been
cashier of the Commercial Bank, was made
cashier.
The bank commenced business in the build-
ing at southwest corner of State and De la
Guerra Streets, but soon found they must have
larger premises, and in 1914 the present bank
building at the west corner of the same streets,
was constructed.
Mr. T. W. Dibblee is the president, and W.
B. Metcalf is secretary and cashier.
In July 1914, the Fugazi Popolare Bank, of
183
SANTA BARBARA
^in Francisco, establish a branch in Santa
fjarbara at iW State Street, vvhich has been very
successful under the mar of Mr. T/
Dardi. As soon as completed, the L^.k hopes tr^
occupy a nevv building at the corner of State and
Cota Streets, which will enable them to take care
of their increasing volume of business. On June
2(hK 1920, the assets amounted to $ 1 4,9 1 9,592,92,
a branch is also maintained at Oakland,
7'he Santa Barbara Mutual Building and
Loan Association was incornorated in 1901,
with a capital stock of $IL . .0, and its direct-
ors and officers are as follows: J. M, Warren,
C, A, Edwards, H. P, Maguire, Burt Moore, H
T, Nielson, L, I, Tilton and W, G. Griffith, at-
tornev. The funds of the Association are de-
posited with the County National Bank & Trust
Company of Santa Barbara, Interest of 6/r
has been paid on deposits for the past fifteen
years. Loans are made on improved real estate,
repayable in monthly installments covering a
period of years, the purpose being to encourage
thrift and owning of homes, a plan which is pe-
culiarly adapted tr> working and salaried men,
"The man who rents is onlv camping out^' Its
cs, Jul V I St, 1920, were's ! //A ^'40.59. Loans
on mortgages, $948,238.70.
The Loan & Building Association of Santa
Barbara^^ offices at 1014 State Street, was incor-
porated in 1887, and its officers and directors arc
as follows: H. L. Stambach, Alfred Edwards,
W, R, Kearney-, J. M, Abbott, J. J. Squier, F. A,
Conant, James Birss, H. L. Fredrick, F, L, Kel-
logg, J, C, Hassinger. The object of the asso-
A X D M O N T I C I T O
C!
i*:*'^^, is to provide i nie.ir.s whereby ihz.iz i\iij
be ."^ ; :::::ed amoPig :he people, and the funds se-
cured by this meins -:;.p.ed to other people to
heir ::v:::: to gun .1 home upon a pa\Tnent each
n : r. .irnourit : .:^er than would be
; .. .;. :ol rent.
Its Assets, July Ist, 1920, were 3612,710.68.
There are mo Abstract Companies in Santa
Barbara. The Wright Abstract Company^ and
the Santa Barbara Abstract & Guarantee Co.
The tirst-named was established in 1875, by
Paul R. Wright, and was incorporated in 1899.
Mr. C. W. Rasey has :z-: :::.;;-..; _:r: :;- the past
eighteen years. The otRces are -:.\:-.i at 1?
East Carrillo Street.
The Santa Barbara Abstract 5: Guarantee
Co., was established in I^0>. and has offices at
1014 State Street. M: W S. Porter, manager.
Xearly every life, fire, accident, surety and
other forms of Insurance Companies are repre-
sented in the city by competent agents.
The commercial life of Santa Barbara is well
represented by handsome stores of all kinds that
would be creditable to a far larger city. Its mer-
chants and business men are noted for their en-
terprise and public spirit, and any project for
the advancement of the city's interest is sure of
their hearty co-operation.
The trade in automobiles is exceptionally
well represented, most manufacturers haWng of-
fices or representatives, while garages and oil
stations have been established ia every locality.
It will come as a revelation to many that the
American Film Company, Inc., one of the larg-
13S
SANTA BARBARA
est moving picture companies in America, has
been established in Santa Barbara since 1912.
They commenced by making one and two-
reel and serial films, but for the past four years
have confined themselves exclusively to big fea-
ture productions. The company believe in us-
ing brains in the business, and catering to what
the public wants, not what they think is w^anted;
so in marking time occasionally and not making
films, they wait until the public taste has been
ascertained, then make films to suit that taste.
The spacious studios, which cover six acres
of ground, have had as many as fifteen companies
in operation at the same time. All the details
necessary are co-ordained into one harmonious
whole, so that there is no interruption of contin-
uity in setting up a production, and every modern
apparatus and facility is provided.
Some of the most famous moving-picture di-
rectors have received their post-graduate course
here, including: Allen Dwan, Frank Borzage.
Wm. D. Taylor, Marshall Neilan, Henry King,
Ted Sloman, Lloyd Ingraham, Geo. L. Cox,
Chet. Withey, and among the stars developed by
this company may be mentioned : J. Warren Ker-
rigan, Mary Miles Minter, Mav Allison, Har-
old Lockwood, William Russell, Kolb & Dill,
Jack Richardson, Tom Chatterton, Anna Little,
Margarita Fischer, Seena Owen, Richard Ben-
nett, Allen Forest, Douglas McLean, Marguer-
ita Sylva.
In addition to the magnificent studios here
the company maintains laboratories in Chicago
and London.
186
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>
SANTA BARBARA
Mr. S. S. Hutchinson, of Chicago, is the
President and is prominently identified with nu-
merous motion picture enterprises; the Secretary
is Mr. J. R. Freuler, of Milwaukee, who has
diversified film interests, and Mr. R. R. Nehls,
General Manager, so favorably known in the
film world, resides in Santa Barbara.
The establishment of the American Film
Company in Santa Barbara means much to its
development, since in addition to the large sum
of money spent here annually (between $500,000
and $1,000,000) it is one of the best forms of ad-
vertisement a city can have, and all who believe
in a greater and more widely known Santa Bar-
bara should appreciate its value. This is en-
hanced by the fact that only star films are pro-
duced, and what will appeal most is the excep-
tional character of the artists appearing in same.
Santa Barbara Tea Rooms
The Barbarenos, in their fondness for after-
noon tea, outvie the English, but this may be due
in some measure to their New England ancestry.
No matter where the stranger wanders, he will
find such attractive places as '^The Studio," in
the old de la Guerra mansion, ^'The Patio," also
in an historic adobe on East de la Guerra Street;
'The Carrillo Adobe," ''Cozy Corner," "The
Sign of the Cypress." Then in the attractive
shops up and down State Street, and in the Large
hotels, afternoon tea is also served.
The same obtains at the clubs, and the discus-
sion so dear to the heart of all womankind finds
an outlet in afternoon tea parties the year round.
188
AND MONTECITO
At one of these a very precise and scholarly lady
who had been much ''talked over" in her absence,
remarked to one of her dear friends: ''How I do
long for dear old Boston, small towns are all ears
and big ones have none."
Altogether, a tour of the places where tea is
served in Santa Barbara is most interesting, and
■an education in itself. It is not so much what
you see, as what you hear — tow^n talk and — but
there, make the round yourself, it's a cure for
ennui.
We have all heard of the "Blue Bird," and
have observed how often it has been used as an
advertisement for this and that, but a Santa Bar-
bara lady now proposes to establish a new tea
room to be known as the "Blue Cow"; it is to be
hoped that, on its opening day, she will not pun-
ish her patrons by giving them milk to match.
Hotels
It can be safely asserted that no city of its size
in the United States can compare with Santa
Barbara in its unique hotel accommodation for
the traveling public and permanent guests.
There are rooms to suit -any purse, and the wel-
come extended to the visitor, no matter where he
may sojourn, is characteristic of the city, which
has won a very enviable reputation in this re-
spect.
The palm for being the first in the field,
noted for its hospitality towards its guests, must
be awarded to the historic Arlington Hotel,
which was erected in 1875 by a stock company at
a cost of $200,000, a large sum of money in those
1S9
SANTA BARBARA
days, and, with its broad piazzas and stairways,
was famous in the early eighties as being the
finest hotel on the Pacific Coast.
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After many vicissitudes, the late Colonel
HoUister became owner of a majority of the
190
AND MONTECITO
shares in the Hotel, and the late Dixie W.
Thompson became its capable manager.
The Hotel was run at a loss for about five
years, due to the exceedingly good fare provided
at low inclusive rates, which necessitated assess-
ments being levied on the stock holders, until one
Arlington Hotel, Santa Barbara, 1920.
by one they either gave away their stock or sold
it to Colonel HoUister, who became the sole
owner, he subsequently selling the Arlington to
the Hawleys, who managed it until it was des-
troyed by fire in 1909.
It was felt at this time that Santa Barbara
had lost its dearest possession, but Phoenix-like,
191
SAN T A 1^ /\ R H A R A
out of its ashes arose the present splendid fire-
proof edifice that represents the best in the Mis-
sion style of architecture in California.
The traditions of the historic Arlington are
maintained by the new proprietors Messrs. A. I..
Richmond and John J. Hernan, reminiscent of
the best period in its history, when Colonel Hol-
lister gave his guests that personal attention that
served to endear him so much in the minds of his
fortunate guests.
The site on which the Ambassador Hotel
stands was originally known as Burton Mouild,
and was the spot on which in the old days stood
one of the largest Indian villages in the County,
under the chieftainship of Yanonali.
In 1901, the Potter Hotel Company was or-
ganized, and constructed the Hotel, which was
completed in 1902.
For years the immense hotel catered to ex-
clusive people from all quarters of the globe, but
in 1919 it w^as taken over by the Straus interests,
and re-named the Ambassador. The property
has been greatly modernized, and its thirty-acre
park has been beautified with semi-tropical vege-
tation of all sorts.
The location of the hotel on the ocean front
is one of infinite cbarm. The hotel is under the
expert management of Mr. David H. Boice.
El Mirasol (The Sunflower) is one of the
most perfectly appointed hotels of its kind in
America today. It is designed for those w^ho
desire rest and quiet; who want to live as though
152
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193
SANTA BARBARA
at home, without the responsibility and fatigue
of keeping house, but who dislike the publicity,
the noise and promiscuity of a large hotel.
Here, people live in their own bungalows,
which are so designed as to be readily adapted,
to any arrangement of suite desired, from a
single room and bath, to an entire bungalow,
with sitting room and bed rooms, complete; each
room with its own private entrance opening di-
rectly "out of doors."
The main building, a beautiful adaptation of
the mission style of architecture, surrounds a
patio with fountain in the center; being thus
charmingly reminiscent of early Spanish days..
To the rear of this is El Mirasol's private park,
surrounded by the bungalows, beyond which one
has a superb view of the Santa Ynez mountains
and intervening foothills; the vv^hole forming a
picture of restfulness and charm h-ard to dupli-
cate, even in California, outside of Santa Bar-
bara.
El Mirasol is not for the sick, chronic in-
valids being positively not accepted. The intent
is to provide a home for a limited number of
those Vv^ho are lovers of sunshine, natural beauty
and real comfort; and to such it ofTers, in its sur-
roundings, appointments and service, a place ab-
solutely unique in the hotel history of the world.
Mr. F. Clifts is the owner, and Mr. C. D.
Wilson manager.
El Encanto
There can be no doubt in the minds of those
who have been fortunate enough to sojourn in
the hospitable shelter of ''El Encanto," that its
194
AND MONTECITO
name has been aptly chosen, since ''enchantment"
rests with its happy dwellers. Nestling upon the
crest of Mission Ridge, in the Riviera, five hun-
dred feet above sea level, and near the Old Mis-
sion, it looks down upon the fair City of Santa
Barbara, with its wealth of picturesque scenes.
El Encanto Hotel, Mission Ridge, Santa Barbara.
In the valley -at its feet, can be seen, in addi-
tion to the City, beautiful Montecito and the
Goleta valley, and the coast line for many miles;
the peaceful Santa Barbara Channel lies below,
and in the distance the dim shapes of the islands,
and the expanse of ocean.
Towering overhead, to the north, are the rug-
eed Santa Ynez mountains, their
tmts
195
ever-
SANTA BARBARA
changing, their lofty summits seen in vistas
through the foliage of giant eucalyptus.
In the main hotel are drawing room, dining
room, kitchen and twelve guest rooms. The cot-
tages adjoining accommodate fifty guests, the
rooms arranged in suites of two to five in number,
with bath.
The furnishings of El Encanto are artistic
and harmonious, rendering it restful and charm-
ing to the eye, w^hile the simple and delicious
meals still further complete the illusion of home.
The management of the hotel is in the hands
of Mrs. Anne Stow-Fithian and Mr. N. S. Mul-
lan.
With the opening of The Samarkand on
January 1st, 1921, a new word in hotel life will
have been spoken. The word will have a world
meaning — a composite word from all languages
signifying comfort and beauty. A world of
beauty in a garden of thirty acres will have been
created, where a hundred guests may find every
comfort of home with no domestic care.
Single rooms and rooms en suite are fur-
nished in exquisite taste, and open on to an
arched corridor which leads to the main build-
ing. Beautiful painted Persian screens separate
the corridor spaces into private terraces, one for
each suite of rooms. These guest rooms are
built around a terraced garden, where the rarest
of tropical plants bloom throughout the year;
the sitting rooms look into this garden, while the
bedrooms have mountain, meadow, mesa, and
ocean views. In each garden is a lily pond, like
great Persian carpets, dripping from one terrace
196
AND MONTECITO
to the terrace below, until a small lake, bordered
by a rock garden, is reached. A rose pergola
surrounds the lake, and beyond is the bowling
green — two acres of perfect lawn. Near by are
the tennis courts, and clock courts for golf. La
Cumbre Golf Club is only six minutes away.
In the main building, on the ground floor,
are the lounge, ballroom, dressing rooms, game
and writing rooms, and a small theatre, perfectly
appointed, opening into the lounge, where from
time to time plays will be given for the guests
and their friends. The dining-rooms, with
breakfast and tea terraces, are on the third floor,
reached by elevators. This part of the Samark-
and has reached the ultimate of beauty in ap-
pointments and decorations. The walls of the
main dining room are violet gray. Large Per-
sian blue baskets of fairyland flowers, fruits and
birds painted on a gold ground form a decoration
over the windows. On the blue metal gauze cur-
tains, which hang from the moulding at the top
of the painted decoration, wool flowers and fruits
are embroidered in motifs similar to the forms
in the baskets. Wedgewood china in three col-
ors is the service used — yellow at breakfast; lav-
ender blue at luncheon; and the Queen's Edme
pattern at dinner. Colored linens are used to
harmonize with the china. The kitchens are
pronounced by experts to be the most perfect in
the country, with every feature designed to con-
tribute to efficient service.
The entire building is of reinforced concrete,
and is fireproof; the architects, Messrs. George
Dennison and Frank Ingerson, have achieved a
197
SANTA BARl^ARA
wonderful result in creating a building which
breathes the spirit of Persia.
With the management in charge of Mr. Al-
fred K. Bennett, service in every department will
be unexcelled, and the meaning of the Persian
word — ''Samarkand" — ''A place of one's heart's
desire" will be fully realized.
Among other hotels are: — The Neal, adjoin-
ing the Southern Pacific Railroad Station, The
Barbara, 537 State Street, The Gregson, 1600
Garden Street, El Camino, 318 State Street, De
Riviera Hotel, 125 West Carrillo Street, and
The Upham, 1404 De la Vina Street.
The largest and most artistic apartment
house is the Edgerly Court, which occupies the
corner of Chapala and West Sola Streets, and is
under the efficient management of Mrs. M. S.
Scott. Other apartment houses are: — The
Brackett, on State and Arrellaga, The Bruns-
wick, East Haley Street, The Morehouse, 1123
Ch-apala, Hillside Apts., 1811 Loma, La Mor-
ada, 7 E. Valerio, Resthaven, 1 135 Chapala, and
the Sahm, 125 W. De la Guerra Street; there are
also several ''Courts" of bungalow residences.
Education
The earliest mention of a school in Santa
Barbara is that of a girls school in 1817, and in
1819 it w^ould appear from old records that
Diego Fernandez was receiving fifteen dollars
a month for teaching. Governor Echeandia, in
1828, considered this a useless expense, as no
scholar attended the school, so the comandante
was ordered to compel parents to send their
198
AND M O N T E C I T O
children. Whether this effort was successful,
the records do not state.
Later, in 1829, the government records show
that there were two schools in Santa Barbara,
one at the presidio with 67 scholars, and one at
the mission with 44, but these do not appear to
have been very successful ow^ng to lack of funds
and the impossibility of obtaining suitable teach-
ers. No progress was made, due to Governor
Echeandia being unable to contend against the
indifference of the people and the poverty of the
treasury. The cause of education -again declined;
the schools in California, few in number and
presided over by incapable teachers, were only
open for about one-third of the time, at irregular
intervals, and for brief periods, according to the
condition of the treasury.
In May, 1834, Governor Figueroa reported
to the Mexican Goverment that there were only
three primary schools in the State, among them
one -at Santa Barbara, and these were taught by
ill-qu-alified, inexperienced men, and attended
by but few children. These schools were for
boys, for girls none existed, nor for several years
had any attempt been made in connection with
female education. These facts were set forth by
the governor in a speech delivered shortly after-
ward at the opening session of the assembly,
whereupon that body asked from the supreme
government an annual sum for the support of
199
S A \ r A BARBARA
public schools, to which request no attention was
paid.
Very little more was done in connection with
education in Santa Fiarbara uritil, in 1844, Gov-
ernor Micheltorena issued a decree by which the
schools were again established in several cities,
among them Santa Barbara. The plan adopted
provided for teaching reading, w^riting, and the
elementary rules of arithmetic; -also that girls
should have lessons in making and mending
clothes, and to a certain extent in embroidery and
vvxaving by hand. All children betw^een six and
eleven years w^ere to attend, unless they were be-
ing taught at home, or there w^as some other
valid reason. The Governor also at this time
issued a proclamation calling upon the patriot-
ism of officials and people to support the schools,
and announced that they would be opened on the
first Monday in June, but it does not appear that
schools were even opened at all the places pro-
posed, -and even w^here they w^ere established, it
was found impossible to raise money to pay the
teachers. Within a year of its adoption, this
scheme w^as found to be impracticable, and once
more the question of education w^as shelved.
During his term of office, Governor Pico also
made an attempt to establish schools, but was
unable to do so, owing to the same difficulties en-
countered by his predecessors, want of funds,
lack of teachers, and indifference on the part of
parents.
200
AND MONTECITO
Such was the condition of education in Cali-
fornia up to the time of the American acquisi-
tion; the Californians of 1846 were hardly more
learned than those of 1786, with the exception of
those who had been educated in Mexico or
abroad; or w^ho had received instruction from
private teachers.
As soon as California was organized under
American rule, steps were taken to establish -a
public school system, and half a million acres of
public lands were donated for that purpose by
congress. From sale of this land and from a
proportion of the state poll tax, the schools were
supported; later, each school district was author-
ized to levy a tax for school purposes.
In 1855 the public school in Santa Barbara
met in the old Presidio chapel, poorly lighted,
damp and half ruined. About forty pupils at-
tended, and were taught by a man who only knew
Spanish and received $80 per month for his ser-
vices. The earthquake in 1857 practically de-
molished the old chapel and rendered the erec-
tion of a new school house necessary, which was
built of brick at a cost of $1,500.
Any sort of a building that would house the
pupils, except the brick building above men-
tioned, was used for school purposes in those
days, and this state of affairs continued until the
erection of the Lincoln school in 1870.
In 1869 a joint stock company of citizens was
201
SANTA BARBARA
organized, which founded the Santa Barbara
College; this school flourished until 1881, when
owing to financial difficulties it ceased to exist.
Arrangements were then made for the estab-
lishment of a high school, and for some years
this w^as housed in a portion of the Lincoln
School building, but in 1901 it moved to its pres-
ent site.
The construction and equipment of schools
has of late years been much extended to meet the
needs of the city; devotion to the cause of educa-
tion has ahvays been a marked feature of Santa
Barbara, and it is today famous in the land as an
educational center.
The Santa Barbara State Normal School is
an outgrowth of the Blake Manual Training
School founded in 1909 ''to furnish to the people
of both sexes such professional training in Man-
ual Arts and Home Economics as shall fit them
to teach in the public schools of the state in the
departments of Manual Training and Home
Economics." This early school was a commun-
ity project aided very materially by the city
Board of Education and later by the Chamber of
Commerce. The Legislature made its first ap-
propriation in 1911 for building and equipment,
but it was not until two years later that the school
was moved to its present site on the ridge over-
looking the city.
A conspicuous frontage of several white ce-
ment buildings attracts the eye, and stands agree-
ably prominent from any quarter of the city.
The architecture is essentially Spanish, and thor-
202
AND MONTECITO
oughly in keeping with the traditional atmos-
phere of this Mission City. A charming patio
with graceful eucalyptus mirrored in a large rec-
tangular pool is surrounded by a cloister and
pergola, whose pillars are half hidden by climb-
ing roses and graceful vines.
»;..»w^woj£;:&<i»AiiM«^K»%^
State Normal School, Santa Barbara.
The growth in buildings and equipment has
been commensurate with increased enrollment
and wider scope of the work offered. An Art
Department was added because it was needed as
a complement to Manual Arts and Home Econ-
omics, then the Physical Education department
was organized to meet increasing demands for
teachers trained in this line. Again, in 1919,
another enlargement of the scope of work of the
institution was made by legislative action in the
interest of General Professional training. The
name of the institution was changed at this time
203
SANTA BARBARA
to the Santa Barbara State Normal School, and
the course of study was made to include the gen-
eral professional training of elementary teachers
as well as special teachers in Manual Arts,
Home Economics, Art, and Physical Education.
Keen appreciation is felt by the institution
and by the public of the services of Mrs. Ednah
Rich Morse, the founder and first president,
whose vision and devoted service in the face of
overwhelming difficulties fostered the ideals of
the school during the first years of its existence.
Possessing a fund of amazing vitality and bound-
less energy, Mrs. Morse faced almost alone the
educational and legal criticism opposing the es-
tablishment of her school, but later enjoyed the
fruits of her labors in a well-established institu-
tion realizing her ideals. The scholastic stand-
ing of the school was assured and, the training
in special subjects was accredited at the univer-
sities.
The second president was Frank Holland
Ball, whose one year of service was greatly han-
dicapped by his ill-health; during his adminis-
tration, however, the enrollment was greatly in-
creased, and it was through his instrumentality
that the gymnasium with its full equipment was
erected.
Under the progressive policy of the third
president, Clarence L. Phelps, the State Normal
School ofifers still greater opportunity through
a more extensive development and scholastic
growth. The service of the school to the com-
munity and to the state at large is the first con-
sideration, and with several prospective build-
204
AND MONTECITO
ings, a broader curriculum, and a closer integra-
tion of work with the universities, this service is
greatly magnified. President Phelps has been
able, through sound policy and wise judgment,
to bring all the normal schools of the State to-
gether as a unit of education; thus at the pres-
ent time, the outlook is optimistic.
Santa Barbara Girls School
In the spring of 1914, a few people in Santa
Barbara having daughters of school age, felt the
need of a superior school for girls which would
rank with the best in the countrv.
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The Tower, Santa Barbara Girls School.
The undertaking of establishing such an in-
stitution was a tremendous task, but being per-
sons of courage, high ideals and large vision,
they went to work with vigor to accomplish
their aim. A stock company was formed with a
Board of Directors to manage the school affairs.
Fortunately they were able to secure Miss Mar-
ion L. Chamberlain, of Boston, as Principal,
without whose unselfish service, high standards,
205
SANTA BARBARA
and unfailing loyalty it would have been impos-
sible to achieve such a success.
During the period of the war, it was only
possible to have the school in private houses,
w^hich soon became insufficient for its growing
needs. In a few years the resident department
grew from four to twenty-four pupils, and the
Lower Corner from Playground, Santa Barbara Girls School.
day-school from thirty-five to one hundred and
fourteen pupils.
Early in 1919 the school company w^as re-
organized into a corporation of twenty-one Trus-
tees, all of whom are representative people of
this community, who take a keen interest in the
progress of the institution. They have issued
bonds to finance the purchasing of a beautiful
property known as Miradero, located at Con-
stance Avenue at the end of Santa Barbara
Street, formerly the home of Miss Anna Blake
of Newport. In this large homelike residence
with a w^onderful view of mountains, valley, and
sea, there is accommodation for twenty-five girls,
206
AND MONTECITO
all of them sleeping in porch dormitories. An
adjoining property has been purchased for the
day-school, and new buildings — most of them
open-air class rooms — have been completed. A
basket ball field -and several tennis courts are
also on these grounds, together with a charming
wooded canyon beside a stream. As the equable
climate of Santa Barbara makes it possible for
riding, swimming, and all open air sports the
whole year round, the majority of the pupils of
this school avail themselves of the country day
school plan of staying for luncheon at the resi-
dence, and having an afternoon of supervised
sports under a trained director.
Corner of the Residence from Driveway.
The scope of the school is from the kinder-
garten to college preparatory classes, and very
special effort is made to provide a really good
teaching staff. The gradu-ates of the school who
have gone to college have been well prepared to
take their place in all college activities.
The Santa Barbara Girls School, situated as
207
SANTA BARBARA
it is on one of the most beautiful sites in Santa
Barbara, with a climate conceded to be one of
the finest in the world, appeals to Eastern parents
who wish their children to enjoy continuous out
of door life during the entire school year, and to
the Western parents who desire the standards of
education maintained in the best Eastern schools,
St Anthony's Seminary
In Part Two of this work will be found a full
historical account of the establishment of the
Santa Barbara Mission by the padres of the
Franciscan Order, and of the incorporation with
the new province of Santa Barbara, which, in
addition to the California coast, embraces Ari-
zona, New Mexico, Oregon and Washington.
Most of the laborers in this wide and ever in-
creasing field of activity are graduates of St.
Anthony's Seminary. This Institution, first
known as St. Anthony's College, was founded at
the Santa Barbara Mission in 1896.
In order to accommodate the increasing num-
ber of students, a new building was erected, sub-
stantially built of stone, and modern throughout,
w^hich has been the home of the Seminary since
1901.
It is beautifully situated on the crest of a line
of foothills overlooking the city of Santa Bar-
bara and here, in the shadow of the Old Mission,
within earshot of the Mission Bells, which still
hang in their massive towers and speak of the
glories of the past; surrounded on all sides by a
matchless panorama of ocean and mountain,
wooded canon, and rolling hills; drawing inspir-
208
AND iVI O N T E C 1 T O
ation from an environment so rich in the associa-
tions of history and the charms of nature, the
students of St. Anthony's Seminary preparing to
follow in the footsteps of the padres are being
educated for the priesthood in the Franciscan
Order.
The College Faculty is as follows: — Rev.
Father John, President; Rev. Father Peter, Rev.
Father Adrian, Rev. Father Louis, Vice-
President; Rev. Father Joseph, Rev. Father
Charles, Rev. Father Lawrence and the Rev.
Father Bernard.
St. Anthony's Seminary.
Students who desire to enter and who have a
sincere intention of eventually joining the Order
in the Province of Santa Barbara, must be bod-
ily, mentally and morally sound, and between
twelve and sixteen years of age, besides having
the consent of their parents or guardians.
209
SANTA BARBARA
Santa Barbara Cottage Hospital
The Santa Barbara Cottage Hospital was in-
corporated in 1888. At that time the institution
consisted of a group of small cottages accommo-
dating ten patients.
Soon after a large frame building was
erected. This building, with a capacity of 35
patients, was the pride of all who had to do with
it.
In 1913 a new building, the central unit of
the present Cottage Hospital, was erected. It
is of fireproof construction and splendidly adapt-
ed to its purpose, and is located at the corner of
Third Avenue and Bath Street and is reached bj
the electric street car. A wing for obstetric pa-
tients only, was opened in 1918. This feature
of the hospital is unique and has attracted wide
attention. Expectant mothers and mothers arc
so well cared for that it is ahvays crowded and its
enlargement will soon be necessary. At that time
Miss Florence C. Johnson was appointed Super-
intendent and has occupied that position ever
since.
A second wing, organized by the late Nath-
aniel B. Potter, M. D., and called the A4emorial
Metabolic Clinic was opened in 1919. This
unit has an individual stafT of doctors, nurses and
laboratory technicians. It is devoted exclusively
to the study and treatment of a group of illnesses
known as metabolic diseases which are difficult
to deal with. This group includes such con-
ditions as nephritis, gout, diabetes, thyroid and
other glandular troubles, etc. The expense of
maintaining this department has been borne by
210
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private donors and by the Carnegie Foundation
for the Advancement ot 7"eaching, Dr. W. D.
Sansuni, late of Chicago, having been recently
appointed to have control and direct this depart-
ment.
About this time a third wing was added to
the main building, given over entirely to the
X-Ray department. The appointments of this
unit and its equipment are as excellent as any on
the coast and a physician specializing in X-Ray
work devotes his entire time to this branch.
Thereby, physicians and the general public h-ave
the advantage of accurate X-Ray advice.
Very completely equipped clinical, chemical
and pathological laboratories h-ave been estab-
lished. The clinical and pathological labora-
tories employ three assistants working under the
supervision of a full time pathologist. The
chemical laboratory has tvv^o assistants and is
under the direction of a research chemist of na-
tional prominence.
A new departure in hospital management
has recently been inaugurated, the services of a
medical director. Dr. Frank Nuzum, having been
obtained. The medical and research w^ork of the
entire hospital is under his supervision. The
Board of Directors have provided attending
physicians with every modern method of diag-
nosis and treatment. They have further assured
the general public that only the best work pos-
sible is to be done in the hospital and with this
in view they hold the medical director respon-
sible for the standard of the medical work ac-
complished.
212
AND MONTECITO
A further departure in the activities of this
institution is the establishment of a research de-
partment. Work of this l^ind has from the first
been done in the Metabolic Clinic and will now
be extended to other medical branches. The
prosecution of investigative work is rarely un-
dertaken by small hospitals and the citizens of
Santa Barbara may feel proud that they have in
their midst an institution that is broad enough in
its policies to undertake such a task.
Owing to the rapid growth of the hospital,
plans have already been prepared for further
additions. Among the improvements contem-
plated is the erection of a new home for nurses.
The Cottage Hospital owes its splendid
quarters and equipment to the foresight of a
group of benevolent men and women who for
years have given money and time to its needs.
The present Board of Directors, of which Mr.
George Owen Knapp is the president, is com-
posed of nationally prominent business men who
have been especially liberal and have effected
for Santa Barbara an institution of which the
city may be justly proud. The aim of the Di-
rectors is that the service of the Hospital shall
be so uniformly good that no better treatment
can be ofifered to the millionaire than is given the
patient without means.
The Santa Barbara General Hospital (and
Farm) was founded in July, 1918, on a site of
350 acres off Hollister Avenue, to the north of
the city. There are at present 87 inmates, in-
cluding 22 Tubercular patients, which are
213
SANTA BARBARA
housed in a commodious and well-appointed sep-
arate building.
In addition to a flower garden, all the vege-
tables used in the Hospital are raised, as well ab
beans and walnuts; 187 tons of hay w^ere also
harvested this season. New barns have also re-
cently been built, with housing for pigs, cows,
and horses.
The Institution is under the capable manage-
ment of Mr. and Mrs. Vandever.
St. Francis Hospital
St. Francis Hospital of Santa Barbara, Cali-
fornia, is under the management of the Francis-
can Sisters of the Sacred Heart, w^hose head-
quarters are at Joliet, Illinois. The hospital was
founded in the year 1906 by a board of physi-
cians, and w^as taken over by the Sisters in the
year 1908.
Few hospitals an}^vhere in the United States
or, for that matter, in the world, can boast of
such an ideal setting. Surrounded as it is by
gardens typically Californian in vegetation, and
built on high ground, safely removed from the
noise of traffic, St. Francis Hospital has advan-
tages all its own. From the veranda running
along the front of the building, and from most
of the rooms, the view^ is an arresting one. The
tow-n is just below^, sloping dow^n from the foot-
hills and spreading out into the valley; hedged
in on the other side by a long line of gently roll-
ing hills. To the left the view broadens out
over the placid waters of Santa Barbara Chan-
nel — placid usually, because of their island bar-
214
AND MONTECITO
riers which stretch for many miles along the dis-
tant horizon, and deeply blue as they reflect the
abundant sunshine of this favored clime.
The buildings of St. Francis Hospital,
though unpretentious in appearance, are well ap-
pointed in the various departments necessary for
efficient service. The rooms are all pleasant;
neatly furnished, and open to sunlight. Spotless
cleanliness is everywhere in evidence; in fact, the
hospital is justly noted for the extreme care
which the Sisters take in this regard. The sur-
gical and the X-ray department, which are
housed in a new fire-proof wing, are spacious
and furnished throughout according to the most
modern standards. Operating-room, X-ray, and
laboratory are each under the supervision of a
Sister specially trained for the work.
In connection with the hospital, the Sisters
also conduct a training school for nurses, which,
being accredited by the state-board, is empow-
ered to grant the regular diploma for trained
nurses. Competent doctors have been appointed
as lecturers, and co-operate admirably with the
Sisters in providing the student-nurses with an
education tending towards an efficient as well as
a devoted service of the sick.
People of every race and every creed have
learnt to appreciate the presence of the Sisters
in Santa Barbara. Very seldom is there an
empty room in the hospital; scarcely does a pa-
tient leave when there is another waiting to take
the room vacated. More than this; during the
past year especially, the call for space in the hos-
pital has been so great, that many had to be re-
215
AND M () N T E C I l O
fused for lack of room. The Sisters, therefore,
are very eager to provide a new building for
their ever increasing number of patients. The
necessary ground has already been secured and
the building will be constructed as soon as suf-
ficient funds are subscribed.
The Associated Charities
The interesting Old Adobe at Santa Bar-
bara and De la Guerra streets houses the equally
interesting activities of the Associated Charities.
More than one newcomer to Santa Barbara has
exclaimed ^'Why a charity organization here?
Surely there is no misery or poverty in the
midst of all this beauty." But the mother whose
sick child is crying for the milk which she has no
money to buy, cannot hear the music of the
waves. The aged gentlewomen quietly starving,
too proud to ask assistance, can no longer see,
with their dimmed vision, the wonderful blue-
ness of the sky. To the frail wife left suddenly
penniless and alone with five little ones, the
mountains are but pitiless piles of stone unless
their strength is interpreted to her in terms of
human sympathy and helpfulness. Tragedies
like these explain why the community, desiring
to make life beautiful within as well as without,
maintains the Associated Charities to relieve
distress wherever found, and to prevent it when-
ever possible.
In contributing its share to the community
welfare the work of the Association falls rather
naturally into the following divisions:
1. The meeting of emergencies; tiding over
hard places, discovering and eliminating condi-
216
</5
-a
u
o
<
V
o
<
c
<u
<
o
(A
;\ N D M O N T E C I T O
tions which arc causing poverty and misery.
Many and varied are the troubles and perplexi-
ties which are brought to the hospitable old
building, each requiring special thought and di-
agnosis and treatment. The solving of human
problems is not a simple task; the re-establish-
ment of broken homes is not accomplished in a
day; the straightening and strengthening of
warped and sagging lives requires more than
food and clothing, but is it not -a service infinitely
w^orth while'?
2. Administering the County aid in this su-
pervisorial district, investigating all applica-
tions for assistance, and acting as friendly ad-
visor to all those dependent on the community
for support, helping them back to self mainten-
ance whenever possible. This group includes
the old folk w^ho can never again be self support-
ing; the family whose wage earner is incapaci-
tated by sickness, and the deserted or wadowed
mothers with tiny children.
3. The educational work among the foreign
speaking families. Repeatedly w^e find those
w^ho enter the new land full of hope failing to
become adjusted. Handicapped too heavily by
ignorance of our language and customs, they be-
come bewildered, disheartened and dependent,
unless somew^here a friendly contact is made.
The mother who understands no English is quick
to recognize the interest taken in her baby, and
comes eagerly to the Industrial classes at the
Old Adobe to learn how to sew, how to prepare
wholesome, well balanced meals for her family
and neat attractive clothing for her children;
218
SANTA BARBARA
paying for the material not in money but in sew-
ing on other little garments which by being sold
to more fortunate mothers, help to support the
department. Her children meantime, who are
too young for school, play in the sunshine, dig
in the sand pile, and frolic freely about the old
building.
4. The distribution of the milk which
means health and strength for undernourished
children, tubercular families -and convalescents,
weakened by illness. Started first as an emer-
gency measure, the Milk Fund has proven of
such value that, under the sponsorship of the
Native Daughters, it has received most generous
support from the entire community.
5. Acting as the local agent for the State
Board of Charities and Corrections in supervis-
ing family boarding homes for children, in order
to insure each child who must needs be cared for
outside his own home adequate care and protec-
tion.
6. Representing the Children's Department
of the State Bo-ard of Control by keeping in close
touch with those families in which orphans or
half orphans are receiving aid from the State.
7. Co-operating in all efforts toward social
and civic betterment to the end that Santa Bar-
bara may be indeed wholly beautiful in the mak-
ing and the living.
Santa Barbara Visiting Nurse Association
This Association was organized in 1908, with
the object of making a visiting nurse service
available in the community, and furthering the
interests of public health in all ways possible.
219
SANTA BARBARA
In 1910 a building at 133 E. Haley Street was
purchased, and the Association was incorpor-
ated. The following year a General Dispensary
was opened, the work of which was taken over
in 1917 by the Cottage Hospital, in order that
the Association might devote its energies to
home-nursing. At present the organization em-
ploys a supervisor and four nurses, and has the
use of three Ford cars; the registrar also acts as
Spanish interpreter. The nurses work in co-
operation with the city physicians, the Clinics,
and the City and County Health Departments;
special attention is given to maternity patients,
and to infant and child welfare. In this connec-
tion, a w^eekly meeting is held, with physician in
attendance, to which mothers may bring their
babies for advice and care. From 1914 to 1916
School nursing was done by the Association,
when the Board of Education incorporated the
school nurse in the school system; work in the
parochial schools is still done by the visiting
nurses, and a dental clinic for children main-
tained by them for two days weekly. Other ac-
tivities of the Association include the mainten-
ance of an open-air school for delicate children,
a clinic for the examination of persons suspected
of having tuberculosis, and a summer day camp
for children.
Santa Barbara Churches
Until the sixties the only regular church ser-
vices held in Santa Barbara were those at the
Mission and the Parochial Church at the corner
of State and Figueroa Streets, Catholicism being
220
AND MONTECITO
the religion of all the inhabitants of the County,
including the Indians.
The first Protestant church to be organized
here was the Trinity Episcopal on March 28,
1867. For the first two years services were held
in a little brick schoolhouse in the yard of the
Lincoln School, after which the church building
was erected on Guiterrez Street near Anacapa.
In 1875 there was division in the congregation,
and one faction built a new church for itself
called St. Marks at the corner of Anacapa and
Micheltorena Streets, but the new venture did
not last long, and in 1888 the re-united society
built another church at the corner of Anacapa
and Anapamu Streets. This was burned dov/n
in 1903, and the congreg^ation then held services
in the Parish Hall. Finally in 1912 the present
church was erected, at the corner of State and
Micheltorena Streets.
The next denomination to organize in Santa
Barbara was the Congreg-ational, this event tak-
ing place on the 8th of September, 1867. On
May 19, 1870 a church was dedicated on a site
near the corner of Ortega and Santa Barbara
Streets, this being used for about twenty years,
when a new building w^as erected at the corner of
Anacapa and Figueroa Streets, the latter being
sold to the Lutherans when the present Congre-
gational church on State Street near Sola, was
built in 1906.
221
S A N 1^ A BARBARA
In 1869 the First Presbyterian church was
organized, and the present edifice of that congre-
gation on Anapamu Street opposite the Public
Library, is the most imposing church building in
Santa Barbara.
The First Baptise
church was organiz-
ed July 5, 1874, and
a small lot with a
building on it near
the corner of Ortega
and De la Vina
Streets was purchas-
ed from the Presby-
terians when they
moved to their new
church in 1875. In
1882 the church
property known as
St. Marks, was pur-
chased by the Ban
tists, and continued
to be used until the
erection of the pres-
ent edifice at the corner of Victoria and Chapak
Streets.
The Unitarian Society of Santa Barbara was
organized August 13, 1885, the present church
at the corner of State Street and i\rlington Av-
enue being erected in 1890.
The First Christian Church of Santa Barbara
222
First Presbyterian Church.
AND MONTECITO
was founded in 1888, by B. F. Coulter of Los
Angeles with a charter membership of thirteen.
The old Episcopal building on East Gutierrez
Street was the place of worship for several years,
after which a church was built on the corner of
Carrillo and De la Vina Streets. This property
was sold in 1919, and a site on the corner of Cha-
pala and Carrillo Streets purchased with the idea
of sometime building a fine place of worship.
First Church of Christ Scientist.
The First Church of Christ Scientist, was or-
ganized October 2, 1900, though a small com-
pany of persons of that belief had been holding
services for some seven or eight years before.
In 1902 the former Unitarian chapel on State
Street near Victoria was purchased, and in 1906
removed to its present location at the corner of
Anacapa and Micheltorena Streets, where it has
been greatly enlarged.
223
S A N r A BAR H A R A
Other societies of a religious nature are to be
found in Santa Barbara, representing almost all
sects, as well as a fine edifice housing the Young
Men's Christian Association, at the corner of
Chapala and Carrillo Streets.
Recreation Center
The Recreation Center, in East Carrillo
Street, is the home of many organizations and
clubs, and besides reading and billiard rooms for
men, contains transient rooms for women, en-
dorsed by the Y. W. C. A., and an information
bureau. The building is open daily, Sundays
and holidays included, from 7 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.
National and international groups make Rec-
reation Center their headquarters for mass
meetings of various kinds; school plays, political
gatherings, community singing and concerts, lec-
tures, and supervised public dances are frequent
occurrences, and many children of both sexes are
always to be seen in the gymnasium, and in folk
dancing and first-aid classes.
A public bath house for children, the only
one of its kind in the city, has been conducted on
the beach for some years, and its popularity is
evidenced by the fact that over 5,000 baths were
taken during a period of six wrecks this season.
The transient rooms at the Center, endorsed
by the Y. W. C. A., are in constant demand. The
w^oman or girl seeking work not only finds a safe
place to stay until she secures a position, but here
too, come many girls who are stranded in the
city, friendless and without money. It is no un-
224
AND M O N T E C I T O
common occurrence for a midnight telephone
call to be received from the station master or one
of the police, seeking shelter for some belated
traveler, or for some wa3rvvard girl who wants
another chance.
One of the special features of the Center is
the Open House held every Saturday night,
which is very popular with the public, the usual
attendance averaging between five and six hun-
dred. Visitors not caring to dance may pass the
time pleasantly in the attractive club rooms,
watching the dancing, or listening to the music
with their families and friends.
Santa Barbara Clubs
Club life is well represented in Santa Bar-
bara, as a perusal of the following list will show.
Membership is drawn from all classes of society,
and exemplifies the social life of the community:
Automobile Club of Southern California, 1425
State Street; Caledonian Club, 15>^ E. Anapamu
Street; Commercial Club of Santa Barbara, 10
E. Carrillo Street; Little Town Club, 27 E. Car-
rillo Street; Nature Study Club, 513 E. Pedre-
gosa Street; Overseas Club, Kitchener Branch,
15>^ E. Anapamu Street; Progressive Business
Men's Club; Rotary Club, 1025 State Street;
Santa Barbara Club, 1 105 Chapala Street; Santa
Barbara Rifle Club, 1022 State Street; Santa
Barbara Country Club, Channel Drive; Santa
Barbara Kennel Club; Santa Barbara Athletic
Club; Santa Barbara International Polo Club;
Santa Barbara Driving Club, 711 Chapala
Street; Santa Barbara Woman's Club, 1419 An-
225
SANTA BARBARA
acapa Street; Town & Country Club, 1113 State
Street; University Club, 25 E. Micheltorena
Street; Women's Shakespeare Club, 1200 Gar-
den Street.
La Cumbre Golf and Country Club
La Cumbre Golf and Country Club is pictur-
esquely located in grounds of 140 acres just west
of the city, and wonderful views of mountain
and valley may be obtained both from the
grounds and from the windows of the very at-
tractive club house. There is a membership of
300 and a waiting list, including not only men
and women of leisure, but bankers, professional
men, and business men of Santa Barbara. Mem-
bers enjoy the game over a beautiful and well
laid out course, which is exceptionally green.
Santa Barbara Country Club
The Santa Barbara Country Club was organ-
ized twenty-six years ago, and during that period
many of the most prominent personages in the
country have been entertained at its club house
and have played golf over its links. The club
is located at Montecito, and has a very fine club
house.
La Primavera Association
La Primavera Association is a city organiza-
tion for the perpetuation of the memory of the
early Spanish occupation of Santa Barbara. This
is done through an historical pageant which is
presented in the spring of each year.
Community Arts Association
The Santa Barbara Community Arts Associ-
226
AND MONTECITO
ation is an organization with an executive com-
mittee composed of the leading citizens of the
city, for the furtherance of the community the-
atre plan.
Their production of ''The Quest" on the oc-
casion of the dedication of the Outdoor Com-
munity Theatre at the Plaza del Mar in July was
wonderfully successful. The play was undoubt-
edly one of the prettiest ever given in Southern
California, the setting wonderful, and the cos-
tumes and talent excellent.
Commercial Club of Santa Barbara
This club of business men was incorporated
February 23, 1905, and has been of great service
to the merchants of the city. It is very active,
and its bi-weekly luncheons are cheery affairs,
well-attended, and questions of importance to the
community are discussed. J. A. Walton is Pres-
ident and G. M. Mickelson, Secretarv.
The Rotary Club
The Santa Barbara Rotary Club was organ-
ized on October Sth, 1917, and has a member-
ship of seventy-one. The President is Winsor
Soule, Secretary, Byron Z. Terry. They arc
prominent in many activities, and are now en-
gaged in promoting the re-building of the East
Boulevard, and aiding the Boy Scout movement
Boy Scouts of America
No movement is more worthy of support
than the Boy Scouts of America. The local
branch at Santa Barbara was organized in No-
vember, 1919. There is now a membership of
159, but great plans are being made to increase
227
SANTA BARBARA
this membership to a total of 300 by next year.
The boy of today is the citizen of tomorrov/, and
the lessons of service and citizenship taught in
youth are never forgotten. The President of
the Boy Scout Council is Wm. H. Conklin, and
the offices in The First National Bank Building
are under the direction of E. J. Richards.
Chamber of Commerce
The nucleus of the Santa Baibara Chamber
of Commerce was the establishment, on Septem-
ber 22nd, 1872, of an Immigration Bureau. On
March 22nd, 1873, the Daily Press announced
that ''the Chamber of Commerce" had called a
meeting for April 10th, at w^hich the subject for
discussion was the need for a first class hotel.
This discussion finally resulted in the formation
of a stock company, and the building of the
Arlington.
For some time the activities of the Chamber
of Commerce were quiescent. On December
4th, 1886, Vi temporary organization was made,
which, later, was perfected by the appointment
of permanent officers and adoption of by-laws.
The collapse of the boom of 1887 carried dov:n
with it the Chamber of Commerce. At the City
Hall, January 4th, 1895, an organization known
as the Board of Trade of Santa Barbara County
came into being, which took an active interest
in everything for the betterment of the city, un-
til in March, 1899, the name of the organization
was changed to The Chamber of Commerce of
Santa Barbara County, and on May 25th, 1899,
22%
AND MONTECITO
the Chamber was incorporated under the laws of
the State of California.
The limits of this sketch preclude mention of
the activities of the Chamber of Commerce dur-
ing the twenty-one years which have elapsed
since its incorporation; sufficient to state that its
sphere of activity has touched the public life at
every point, and every interest in the community
has felt the inspiration of its vitalizing influence.
The membership, numbering 900, is composed
of the leading men and women of the city; the
President is Frank A. Hoefer, and Secretary,
Charles W. Kirk.
The Progressive Business Men's Club
One of the most recently organized Clubs in
the city, is the Progressive Business Men's Club,
a branch of the National organization, with a
membership of the leading business and profes-
sional men of the city. The President is Dr. R.
Manning Clarke.
The American Legion
The Santa Barbara Post No. 49 of the Ameri-
can Legion was organized in July, 1919, with a
membership of thirty-three ex-service men; in
August this membership had increased to fifty.
The first meetings were held at Recreation
Center, but later the basement of the old Presby-
terian Church in State Street was fitted up into
comfortable club-rooms. Owing, however to
this building being demolished the Legion is now
occupying temporary quarters downtown, but
hope soon to remove into a permanent building.
The membership of the Post now numbers over
600 and is steadily growing.
229
SANTA BARBARA
PART IV.
Montecito — Miramar — Sandyland -
teria — Go I eta — Mountain Trails-
Life.
- Carpin-
Oiitdoor
ONTECITO is situated in a
beautiful wooded valley ad-
joining the City of Santa Bar-
bara on the east, and is prac-
tically a residence suburb. It
has become the home of manv
wealthy eastern people, whose
attractive, and in many instan-
ces, magnificent residences are
found in all parts of the valley.
These homes are often sur-
rounded by a treasure of flow-
ers and shrubs, making the
whole neighborhood a delight-
ful place to live in.
Montecito was originally a
part of the Santa Barbara Pu-
eblo lands, and allotments there were given to
soldiers whose terms of enlistment at the Pre-
sidio had expired, and also to new settlers from
Spain and Mexico.
The first American resident was Wilbur Cur-
tiss, who came in 1855; later a number of edu-
cated Americans took opportunity to establish
themselves in the valley, and erect homes.
230
AND MONTECITO
To Mr. Curtiss belongs the distinction of
having discovered the valuable qualities of the
Montecito Hot Springs. He had ruined his
health in mining enterprises, and in wandering
j.. ,
,r^
n
Channel Drive to Montecito.
through the countryside hoping that the pure
air and outdoor life would restore him, he came
upon a party of Indians at the mouth of a canyon.
One among them who claimed to be over one
231
SANTA BARBARA
hundred years old, led Mr. Curtiss to the
springs, and intimated that by bathing in the
waters he would grow well and strong. Mr.
Curtiss remained, drank and bathed in this veri-
table pool of Siloam, and was healed. He then
took up a claim there and began to develop the
property, which today has become a little moun-
tain village.
These springs, some twenty in number, arc
situated in a picturesque canyon of Mount Agua
Caliente, at an elevation of 1,500 feet above and
three miles distant from the ocean, six miles from
Santa Barbara. The temperature of the waters
ranges from 60 to 120 degrees, and they are con>
sidered very efficacious in the healing of many
diseases, and are especially good in rheumatic
cases. Their best endorsement is perhaps that
they are not only much resorted to by people
from abroad, but also by the residents.
Visitors to the springs are always taken to
^'Lookout Point,'* which is reached by a winding
trail on the mountain side; from here may be
obtained a magnificent view of the valleys of
Santa Barbara, Montecito and Carpinteria, and
(^f the ocean and islands beyond.
The air of Montecito, and more especially
that of the foothills overlooking this famed
beauty spot, is so tonic in character and efifect
that some of the residents of the many delightful
homes remain the year round
On the east and v/est of Montecito, and iso-
lating it from its neighbors, are rounded ridges
that run from the bay back to the mountain
range. The slopes are thickly covered with
232
"i
i
I
■I
I
SANTA BARBARA
oaks, and in winter with bright green grass,
which in summer turns to brown and offers a
striking contrast to the coloring of the oaks. The
southwest exposure is upon the bay, and on the
northwest are the mountains, from the foot-hills
of which the land slopes to the sandy beach. No
matter in which direction one looks, the pros-
pect is varied and beautiful. Far ofi across the
bay are seen the rugged forms of the islands;
near by are the mountains, with canyons covered
with semi-tropical vegetation; down in the val-
ley are smaller vales, separated by low elevations
filled with orange and lemon groves. The peace
of nature pervades the atmosphere, and the place
seems designed for quiet contemplation, rest, and
study. In winter and summer flowers and verd-
ure are everywhere, along the roadside, in the
fields, and over all the ever-green foilage of the
trees. Nature has been bountiful in giving
Montecito a fertile soil which is adapted for the
cultivation of almost anything that will grow.
The native trees are sycamores and oaks, to
which have been added specimens of every
known variety, from the pine of the north to the
palm of the south.
Montecito is a colony of magnificently land-
scaped estates, set in surroundings unrivalled in
America, and interwoven in every direction by
smooth highways, which make it a paradise for
the motorist and seeker after scenic charms.
In this colony live many people of national
and international repute, making their homes
here for the greater part of the year; social lead-
ers known in all the capitals of the world; re-
234
AND MONTECITO
tired millionaires and famous professional lead-
ers who have all searched the world over for a
perfect spot to dwell in and have chosen Monte-
cito as the realization of their dreams. The
social life during the winter season is brilliant.
The spiritual needs of Montecito are well
provided for, there being three churches, Car-
melo Catholic Church, Valley Road, Presby-
terian Church, Valley Road, and All Saints
Episcopal Church, Eucalyptus Lane.
'^"S
Entrance to Residence of Mr. David Gray, Montecito.
The only civic features in Montecito are a
town hall, library and a well equipped fire sta-
tion.
Montecito Park, consisting of nine cottages
artistically grouped within an area of four acres,
is situated along the waterfront in the most pic-
turesque section of Montecito. The spacious
park fronts on the beach for a distance of more
235
S A N 1' A BARBARA
than 900 feet. A pleasure pier, 500 feet long,
stretches out from the middle of the sea wall,
which extends along the entire frontage of the
Park. The pier is for the exclusive use of the
occupants of the cottages, as also are the bath
houses, which stand at the other end of the prom-
enade.
The world-famous international polo club
has its headquarters at Montecito, and some of
the finest stables in America will be represented
,.-*,^S;«??5'" '**■•«/;
Country Club, Montecilo.
when the mid-winter tournament opens early in
January. The presence of at least four polo
teams from New York, Toronto, Calgary, and
Vancouver, B. C, is assured for the Santa Bar-
bara tourney, and also a number of individual
players. All these players expect to be here for
the inaugural matches commencing on January
1st, 1921. A large number of other teams, in-
cluding Del Monte, Pebble Beach, Midwick,
236
SANTA BARBARA
San Mateo, and Riverside, will also participate.
The president of the club is Mr. Clinton
Bennett Hale.
Other Montecito clubs include: — The Santa
Barbara Country Club, with its fine golf course
and club-house; the Montecito Home Club oh
San Ysidro Road, and the Hot Springs Club.
Montecito is especially celebrated as having
been the home of a mammoth grape vine, which
upon its death was taken east and exhibited at the
Philadelphia Centennial Exposition in 1876.
This vine was twice as large as the famous vine
at Fontainebleu, France, larger than any found
among the villas in the vicinity of Rome, and
surpassed any of which Pliny gives record in his
history and travels. The King's Vine at Hamp-
ton Court, England, the largest and most noted
in the Old World, only equals in diameter one of
the main branches of this vine.
The history of the Montecito vine is both
curious and interesting; various theories respect-
ing its origin are based on tradition, and al-
though founded on fact, have an air of romance.
A pretty story in this connection is entitled ^'The
Legend of the Montecito Grapevine," which re-
lates that a beautiful Spanish lady named Sen-
orita Marcelina Feliz had been given a grape-
vine cutting to be used as a riding switch on her
journey from Los Angeles to Santa Barbara by
her lover Don Carlos de Dominguez; at the con-
clusion of her journey, by his parting request,
she planted it as a living memento of their
plighted faith, carefully selecting the most suit-
able spot for the cultivation of the grape in Mon-
238
AND MONTECITO
tecito valley. The vine began to grow and
flourish as no other vine had ever done, and its
rapid progress was regarded by Marcelina as
evidence of the constancy and prosperity of her
absent lover, who, when he had amassed a for-
tune, was to return and claim her hand. Two
years later, her parents wished her to marry a
rich old Spaniard, and having no news of her
lover, she was about to do so, when on her bridal
morn, Don Carlos returned from Mexico, where
he had made a fortune. The next day, her par-
ents having consented, the fair Marcelina went
as a willing and happy bride to her adoring Car-
los. Years passed away, and reverses deprived
Carlos of his wealth, his Mexican mines having
ceased to produce silver; but strange to say, the
faithful vine, once a token of fidelity between
the lovers, now became their sole means of sup-
port. So prolific had it become and so little did
the indolent Spaniards about them turn their at-
tention to the culture of the grape, that its fruit
brought an income sufliicient for their needs.
Carlos and Marcelina died at a ripe old age,
leaving behind them many descendents, and the
mammoth grapevine.
The vine measured fourteen inches in diame-
ter three feet from the ground, and nearer to the
root had a diameter of eighteen inches, or fifty-
six inches in circumference, while its foliage
covered a space equal to 10,000 square feet, and
there was room beneath its branches for a dozen
couples to dance at one time. The produce from
this vine often reached the immense quantity of
7,500 clusters, of an average weight of one and
239
SANl^A BARBARA
one-half pounds each, or nearly 12,000 pounds.
It was of the variety known as the Mission grape.
The Deane School
On the west side of Palm Avenue, not far
from the Sycamore Canyon Road, is the Deane
School. Situated as it is, in the foothills of the
Santa Ynez Mountains, six hundred feet above
the Ocean, the location is admirably fit for a
t:\^'^- '-■
.. -u . - .
— • •• ..•iJ»v•^:i.•i-
- --: " •,. rrv'.-i.':-..'.--;,
TKe Deane School, Monteclto.
boys' school. One enters the grounds over a very
rough road lined with trees and shrubbery; but
he is amply repaid for his jolting by the glimpse
he gets of the grounds and buildings. If it is in
the morning, the quietness of the place may give
him the impression that it is deserted, or, at least,
merely the habitation of a few people. But if he
comes in the afternoon, he will be greeted by the
240
AND MONTECITO
sight of seventy boys at play having a wonder-
fully good time. If he is sufficiently interested,
It IS worth his while to visit the large living
room, which is also used as a chapel; and to in-
spect one of the large sleeping porches, where
the boys sleep in all seasons and in all sorts of
weather.
The school was founded bv Mr John H
Deane Jr., in the fall of 1912. ''in spite of seri-
ous losses by flood and fire, he persevered in his
work and succeeded in building up one of the
best schools on the Pacific Coast. The numbers
have grown from twenty-five to more than sev-
enty. But in allowing this increase no conces-
sion has been made to inferior work or to boys
whose personalities were undesirable. At the
end of the spring term in 1920, Mr. Deane re-
linquished his control and turned over his inter-
ests to Mr. Harrison Townsend Jr., and Mr
Hewitt Reynolds, who had served under him as
junior masters. They are assisted by six other
young men, who not only preside over the class-
rooms, but share the daily life of the boys and
are vitally interested in their welfare. In ad-
dition, a hostess and a resident nurse look after
the health and food and other comforts.
The school is unique in many respects The
splendid climate of Santa Barbara and its vicin-
ity makes it possible to spend most of the time
out of doors. The result is that one is impressed
by the sturdy appearance of the lads. Another
unusual feature is that a group of boys earn their
education by taking care of the dormitories and
waiting on the tables. But they share all the ad-
241
SANTA BARBARA
vantages of the others and generally are the most
respected in the school. The discipline is of the
highest order. Impudence is almost unknown.
Naturally, however, boys give way to their im-
pulses. To curb this lack of restraint it is cus-
tomary to require those who have transgressed
to spend Saturdays at manual labor instead of
enjoying a ride or a hike or a ball game. The
remedy is effectual; and besides, it causes them to
appreciate what work is. But in this a sullen
spirit is seldom shown. So if the question were
put, '^What is the most distinguishing feature?''
The answer would undoubtedly be, ^'The splen-
did, happy spirit of the boys."
Miramar-by-the-Sea
Miramar is four miles from Santa Barbara,
on the main coast line of the Southern Pacific
Railroad; it is picturesquely located on an ocean
bluff, a gentle descent leading down to a hard
white sandy beach, from whence bathing may be
safely indulged in the year round. Paved roads
lead from it to Santa Barbara, to Los Angeles
through Ventura County, and into the mountain
fastnesses through Montecito Valley.
The Miramar Hotel and Bungalows, owned
by Mr. H. J. Doulton, located in the midst of a
twenty-five acre garden of trees, shrubs, and
flowers, faces the rising sun, and the blue Pa-
cific. A more charming environment cannot be
imagined. Boating, bathing, fishing, golf, ten-
nis, and horseback riding over the most pictur-
esque mountain trails in the State, may be in-
dulged in throughout the year, and the well-
kept roads recently built throughout the entire
242
AND MONTECITO
Montecito Valley are a constant delight to every
motorist.
Sandyland
Sandyland is practically owned by residents
of Montecito who have built very attractive
Bungalows, with bath-houses attached, the beach
at this point being particularly good.
Carpinteria
The Carpinteria valley lies to the east of
Montecito, separated from it by Ortega Hill —
a long, low, oak-covered elevation rising sud-
denly at the water's edge. From the top of this
rise, Carpinteria is seen extending eastward to
Rincon.
This valley is one of the richest tracts of land
in California, and enormous crops of walnuts
and lima beans are harvested there. The trees
are mainly live oaks, and the houses are set
among gardens rich with flowering shrubs.
Nearer the mountains, which rise steeply along
its northern side, the valley rises into low hills,
which merge into the range through many can-
yons, clothed with vegetation.
The marshes, seen from the dunes, offer a re-
markable picture, especially with the roofs of the
village nestling in the trees, across their broad
wastes. The three-mile stretch of beach is iu
most places three or four hundred feet wide at
low tide; at high tide, the breaking power of the
wide flat and the bar outside pile up a grand surf,
even when the other parts of the coast near by
are becalmed. This large surf breaks far out,
and there is no undertow; consequently, bathing
243
SANTA BARBARA
is safe, and at the same time exciting, as the
Hawaiian diversion of surf-board riding can be
enjoyed.
The first American family in the valley was
the Taylors, who arrived in the 'forties. Henry
Daily came in 1853 and married into a resident
Spanish family. Colonel Russell Heath came
in 1858, and specialized in walnuts, eventually
possessing the largest walnut grove in California.
Henry Lewis came in 1860, the Olmsteads in
1863, J. H. Blood in 1867 and in 1868 O. N.
Cadwell, who was the most enterprising horti-
culturist the valley has known and to whom the
community owed much of its fame as a fruit
growing section. The Bailards came in 1869,
and had much success in the growing of beans.
The townsite of Carpinteria was laid out in
1887, about a mile east of the old town where the
post ofRce, blacksmith shop and store were lo-
cated. For some time the growth of the new-
town w^as slow, but later, the old town practically
ceased to exist, and the new one is flourishing,
with some substantial buildings, which would be
creditable to any community. The paving, plant-
ing, and beautifying of Linden Avenue, the town
hall, high school, and the system of good roads,
indicate a spirit far in advance of most places of
its size.
The Commercial Trust and Savings Bank of
Santa Barbara have recently completed a new
home for their branch in Carpinteria, occupying
a commanding corner at the intersection of Lin-
den Avenue and the coast highway. The build-
244
AND MONTECITO
ing is in the mission style of architecture, and
harmonizes with other new business structures
and residences going up in the locality; the ex-
terior is of a character to suggest the prosperity
of the district and the spirit of progress which is
now directing the development of the commun-
ity. A project is also on foot for a community
building committee to aid in the rebuilding of
stores and other structures along Linden Avenue,
in the Mission style of architecture.
The religious needs of Carpinteria are well
provided for, there being the Presbyterian
Church, Christian Science, First Methodist
Church, and St. Joseph's Catholic Church, in
charge of Fr. Serra.
A weekly newspaper is published by Arthur
M. Clark called the Carpinteria Herald, giving
the news of the valley and vicinity.
Goleta
Goleta is situated about seven miles from
Santa Barbara, in the heart of a flourishing dis-
trict devoted to general farming and fruit cul-
ture. It is about a mile from the ocean, and two
miles from the foothills of the Santa Ynez moun-
tains.
The Goleta rancho originally contained
4,440 acres and was granted to Daniel Hill in
1846. The origin of the name Goleta, Spanish
for schooner, is somewhat doubtful; one tradi-
tion is to the effect that Don Luis T. Burton con-
structed a schooner there in the 'fifties when
there was sufficient water in the estuary to float
small vessels; another story states that a schooner
245
SANTA BARBARA
was wrecked there. In the vicinity of Goleta
Point are extensive sloughs, which in winter fur-
nish sportsmen with good duck shooting.
The village was laid out in 1875, and about
1877 the Goleta landing was built, and was a
shipping point for stock and farm produce, des-
tined for San Francisco, and also the asphaltum
from a near-by deposit, now unworked.
Among the early settlers was James McCaf-
frey who came in 1852j and later owned a vine-
yard near the entrance to San Jose Canyon. Jos-
eph Sexton came in 1867 and was the originator
of the variety of walnut known as the Santa Bar-
bara Soft-Shell now most popular. F. E. Kel-
logg came in 1876, purchased some of the best
land in the valley, and made a reputation for
raising the greatest pumpkins ever known. One
of these reached such proportions that when bi-
sected, the cavity was found large enough to al-
low the halves to be placed together enclosing
his eighteen-year-old daughter; hence the story
went abroad that Goleta squashes sometimes con-
tained young and charming girls, and led to nu-
merous requests from parties at a distance (pre-
sumably bachelors) for some seed of that re-
markable variety.
EUwood Cooper, the pioneer grower of
olives, eucalypti and almonds, came in 1870, and
his work in this connection was of great value to
the whole State.
The oldest tax payer in Santa Barbara county
has just been discovered in the person of Mrs.
Louisa Ygnicia, aged 106, who formerly owned
the Indian Orchard property at Goleta, a pos-
246
AND MONTECITO
session of her family for many years. She is of
pure Indian stock, and is said to be one of the few
Indians remaining who can speak the ancient
language of the tribe that once populated Goleta
valley.
Los Dos Pueblos (The two villages) now
generally known as Naples, is on the coast in the
Goleta district about sixteen miles west of Santa
Barbara, and is the point where, on October
16th, 1542, the Cabrillo expedition landed to as-
cend the high peak near by, known as Mt. Santa
Ynez. There was then an Indian village on
each side of the creek, the inhabitants of each
village being of a dififerent race and language,
those on one side being short, thick-set, and
swarthy, and on the other tall, slender, and not
so dark. The depth of the deposits on the site
of these two villages indicates that the Indians
had lived there for many years, and were con-
temporary with the mound builders.
The Dos Pueblos rancho, containing ovei
15,000 acres, was granted to Nicholas Den in
1842. In 1887, some San Francisco capitalists
purchased a tract on the east side of the creek and
laid out a townsite which they named Naples,
and a good many lots were sold here during the
"boom" in that year.
Mountain Trails
To the equestrian and pedestrian alike, one
of the lures of Santa Barbara is the close prox-
imity of innumerable mountain trails within easy
distance of the city. The Santa Ynez mountain
range is one of the highest in America adjacent
247
SANTA BARBARA
to the ocean, and this immense playground is,
to all intents and purposes, part of Santa Bar-
bara.
There are over two hundred miles of direct
and lateral trails within a few miles from the
business center of the city. This wonderful
maze of trails unfolds some of the prettiest scen-
ery imaginable. Each turn and angle brings to
view some new wonder — enticing waterfalls and
shady nooks embowered in ferns and sweet-smel-
ling mountain flowers; precipitous craigs; a
magnificent view of the ocean; while just around
the turn will be a picturesque shaded canyon,
and a little further on the city will nestle at
one^s feet.
Perhaps the most used trail of the entire sys-
tem is the Canoas Canyon Trail, which is really
the key to the trail system. This trail not only
leads to many beautiful sections of the moun-
tains, but to the very summit of the Santa Ynez
Range. Here, far below, are spread out two
worlds; one a world of ocean, beautiful Santa
Barbara and suburbs linked by winding boule-
vards; the other the wild grandeur of mountain
and valley for forty miles round to Gaviota Pass;
all spread out in an entrancing view, which re-
sembles a mirage on the great Colorado desert.
Canoas Canyon may be reached from either
the lower Mission Canyon or from the Mountain
Drive. It is three miles from the foot of the trail
to Tin Can Shack, constructed from old oil cans,
the former home of a hermit. The grades are
easy and the trail is good, and many beautiful
views repay the slight exertion in the three miles.
248
AND MONTECITO
From Tin Can Shack it takes about half an
hour to walk up the west fork of the canyon to
the top of the ridge overlooking picturesque
Mission Canyon. La Cumbre, the highest peak
in the range, raises its head just beyond.
From the ridge may be followed the well-
known and frequented Tunnel Trail, which re-
ceived its name from the fact that it starts up-
ward from the point where the tunnel is cut
through the Santa Ynez Range, for the pure
water supply to the city.
By following the Tunnel Trail, and passing
the South Portal of the water tunnel, a return
may be made to the city. By continuing upward,
the summit of majestic La Cumbre, four thous-
and feet above sea level, is reached.
The Chamber of Commerce Trail, one of the
most popular, leads up the north fork of Canoas
Canyon, beginning some six hundred feet up
from Tin Can Shack. By this trail also, a re-
turn to the city maybe made, passing many inter-
esting points, and giving a fine view of Cold
Springs Canyon, just back of fair Montecito.
On the other side of Cold Springs Canyon, there
is another lovely trail, five miles long, which
leads to the summit of La Cumbre.
A choice of several routes may be made at
Cold Springs Canyon. By continuing about two
miles to the east to the Mountain Drive, a de-
scent into the canyon may be made; if it is de-
sired to return to the city by a nearer route, con-
tinue on the Chamber of Commerce trail where
it turns to the west.
249
AND MONl'ECITO
By following the latter, many inspiring views
are passed, which no true lover of nature will
soon forget. The trail leads to Inspiration Point,
overlooking Canoas Canyon, a short distance
from the starting point. If the route described
is followed, the mountain side will have been en-
Mountain Drive, Santa Barbara.
circled, and many miles of picturesque scenery
view^ed.
Another route to the summit of La Cumbrc
leads up through Canaas Canyon for about a
mile to a level spot occupied by the Floras Cabin.
From this point a trail leads westward for about
two miles, where it crosses the Tunnel Trail; by
following it for another mile, the summit of La
Cumbre is again reached.
This grand mountain range is now part of the
government system of Forest Reserves, and is a
250
AND MONTECITO
great park of the people. Locations for camps
can be rented. Trails lead to its heights and
traverse its summits, and at San Marcos Pass,
fourteen miles west of Santa Barbara, a wagon
road, famous for the beautiful scenery along the
way, crosses to the valley beyond.
Mountain scenes have a charm that never
tires and a fascination all the greater from close
acquaintance, and this mighty park of nearly a
million acres just in Santa Barbara's suburbs, is
a heritage that will for all time be one of her
most valuable attractions.
The Outdoor Life
Motoring Along Santa Barbara County
Coast Line
With a western and southern shoreline ap-
proximating 120 miles in length, Santa Barbara
County's sea-front is not eclipsed in mileage by
any of the fourteen California Counties touching
on the Pacific Ocean. Its 2740 square miles,
only about one-half of which is mountainous,
embraces a grandeur of scenery which has long
been a magnet for tourists and travelers both
from Europe and America. Owing to topo-
graphical conditions, the bulk of the highways
in the County follow the valleys. Short stretches
of mountain roadway holding exceptional scenic
possibilities are found, but the State Highway,
the trunk line route from Ventura County on the
south to Santa Maria, at the border of San Luis
Obispo County to the north, is a road of but few
unusual grades, and an easy one to travel in a
motor car.
251
SANTA BARBARA
Beginning at the Ventura County line at Rin-
con Creek, this highway includes a part of the
noted Rincon Drive. This drive takes one
within sight of the ocean almost all of the way
from Rincon Point to Santa Barbara. A more
beautiful piece of roadway can scarcely be imag-
ined. Inland rise the foothills, rapidly ascend-
ing towards the mountains, and over the moun-
tain peaks float cloud or mist, purpling into
shadow as the sunset approaches, or bathed in
molten gold in the rays of the noon-tide sun.
Seaward there is a never ending panoramic
change of picturesque novelty. Long rollers
curve in, tipped with snowy crests, and break on
the low beaches into shimmering webs of
threaded silver. Back of them the great heart
of the Pacific beats, sending these liquid pulsa-
tions inland with unvarying regularity. All day
long curlews fly from point to point or stalk laz-
ily along the sands feeding in the receding shal-
lows along shore. Flocks of sandpipers are oc-
casionally seen, whirling by in a mass of greyish
hue, their rapid flight carrying them swiftly out
of sight. High up, a solitary pelican is some-
times posed, soon dropping like a plummet to
the water to seize some luckless fish, while a
wandering sail may infrequently be sighted,
veering and tacking beyond the tumbling bil-
lows.
This portion of the State Highway is an end-
less delight to even the most '^case-hardened"
globe-trotter. It passes by Carpinteria and Sum-
merland before reaching Santa Barbara City
Approaching Santa Barbara it affords many
252
AND MONTECITO
views of superb residences on both sides of the
roadway, close to the Coast. Reaching Gaviota,
some 30 miles from Santa Barbara, the highway
trends sharply towards the north, to Las Cruces.
From Las Cruces it turns northwesterly, then
due north, and then for a short distance north-
westerly again until it reaches Zaca. Leaving
Zaca, the road winds in a northwesterly direc-
tion to Harris Station, and from there goes north
to Santa Maria, on the border-line between
Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo Counties.
This skeletonized outline of the State High-
way through Santa Barbara County gives, of
course, nothing but the approximate course of
the roadway. Its length is about 113 miles. It
traverses Carpinteria, Santa Barbara, Goleta,
Los Alamos, San Antonio, -and Santa Maria Val-
leys, in its course, all of which are remarkably
fertile valleys, producing millions of dollars
worth of agricultural products annually. Very
little climbing is necessary in covering the en-
tire route.
All along this highway the traveler will find
scores of scenic marvels following and blending
into one another with kaleidoscopic brilliancy.
He will turn from vista after vista of deep-cav-
erned oak-clad canyons, to mountain summits
cloud-capped and fading into the blue; and by a
mere turn of the head he will be enabled to look
far out to sea and view long lines of breakers
flashing and curving along the shingly beaches.
There is something about Santa Barbara County
almost enigmatical in its haunting loveliness.
Each valley seems like the enchanted valley of
253
SANTA BARBARA
Rasselas; each vista of undulating ocean-curve,
^'Charm'd magic casements opening on the foam
of perilous seas in faery lands forlorn."
There is, too, the infinite joy of flower and
fruitage to entrance the beholder. The contrast
between these Eden-Valleys and the ice-bound
country of the Mid-Western, Northern and far
Eastern States can only be appreciated by one
who has experienced those differences in mid-
winter months. To such a wanderer, far from
the delectable land of Santa Barbara County,
and locked in the grip of relentless January in-
clemencies, will come readily the stanza aflford-
ing the comparison :
^'For you the fig and olive shine
The green Leaf spreads, and waters run,
With trailing banners of the vine
And Gleam of liz-ard in the sun;
For me the leafless tree and black
The iron weight of winter's ire.
And some cold meteor's baleful track
That sails beyond a wake of fire."
Every mile of this highway was long ago
thoroughly signposted and protected by the signs
of the Automobile Club of Southern California.
Signs of warning, signs of direction, curve and
grade signals, railway crossing signs and warn-
ings, cross-road and city signs, everything to
guide and give information to the traveling
public
The Santa Maria, the Santa Ynez, and the
Sisquoc Rivers are the main streams in the
County, with a drainage area close to 2,000
square miles. In the Lompoc Valley, drained
254
AND MONTECITO
by the Santa Ynez River, and justly celebrated
for its wonderful beauty and fertility, the people
of the district are now contemplating building a
modern-constructed highway, from the neigh-
borhood of Solvang, at the State Highway, to
Lompoc Junction on the Coast, near the mouth
of the Sant^ Ynez River.
Santa Barbara and Santa Barbara County,
while already of both national and international
repute, are destined in the future to become even
more famous. Good roads will be the control-
ling factor in the advancement of both city and
county, and Santa Barbara was a pioneer in the
modern highway movement in California. The
county has still many diversified marvels of
natural beauty which remain to be explored and
enjoyed, as the highways are constructed and ex-
tended. Taken in its entirety, the country has
more than the grandeur of Switzerland, or the
diversity of scenery in any country in Continental
Europe. It has the eternal panorama of the sea,
the cathedraled stateliness of mighty forests, the
flash and mists of dropping mountain torrents,
lakes, rivers, and winding canyons, and blending
with all these the pastoral charm of orange and
olive-crowned lowlands shining in the sunlight.
There is only one Santa Barbara, even in Cal-
ifornia, and it rests where the broad ocean leans
against the land; encircled by the hills rock-
ribbed and ancient as the sun, a city of rare and
surpassing individuality — a jewel in its setting
of varying lights and shadows — a veritable
dream city, the Naples of the West.
255
SANIA BARBARA
PART V.
The Channel Islands
THE islands of the Santa
Barbara Channel are fam-
ous the world over for
their scenic beauty and
wonderful climate, being
visited annually by pleas-
ure seekers from every
land, who seek diversion in
hunting and fishing. Fish
of various kinds are found
everywhere, and the big
game fish, taken with rod
and reel, made the islands
famous years ago. The
angling is so remarkable
that it is difficult to con-
vince the stranger that it
is no joke; yet there is al-
ways abundant evidence of its truth.
The islands of the group are four in number,
San Miguel, often fog-bound, lying farthest
west, then Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz, which is
finely wooded, and Anacapa.
The Spaniards discovered the islands in~1542^
and in those days they were all inhabited; that
life was easy to maintain is evident by the extra-
ordinary wealth of shell fish, including abalones,
which constituted the principal food of the ab-
origines.
256
AND M O N T E C I 1 O
All the islands are bathed by the Japanese
Gulf Stream, the Black Current, which sweeps
up the coast from the south, crosses to Alaska
then flows down the California coast. It is said
by scientists that the presence of this stream is
not responsible for the wonderful climate of the
Channel Islands, but that this is due to the mod-
erating power of the ocean, but it is at any rate
more interesting, if not strictly accurate, to be-
lieve that the Black Current gives to the Pacific
Coast its mild winters, and a climate that has all
the beauty of Southern Europe without its ex-
tremes.
Santa Rosa and San Miguel derive their
names from the Saint whose festival the church
commemorated on the day of their discovery.
Anacapa, meaning deceptive vision, was the
name applied by the Indians to the island. This
is rather appropriate, for Anacapa is very
changeable in appearance, sometimes standing
out as a single peak, then changing to a long
table-like plateau, sometimes broken up into
arches and columns like the remains of some
mighty temple, — all these changes due to the
mysterious laws of light refraction in an air
charged v/ith mist.
Santa Cruz was originally called La Gente
Barbada by Cabrillo, and is said to have received
its new name in the following manner: — When
the padres first visited the island, a large crucifix
was forgotten when they left. The boats were
putting ofif from shore when a number of natives
appeared, making signs to the missionaries to re-
turn. When they did so, they found one of the
257
S A N 1' A BARBARA
Indians carrying the crucifix they had left, and
treating it with great reverence; in token of this,
Padre Gomez, who was in charge of the party,
re-named the island ''Santa Cruz,'' meaning
Holy Cross.
According to Professor H. L. Burton, the
Channel Islands have the same enviable reputa-
tion as the Emerald Isle — no snakes — and a
small red fox which leaves hen roosts alone,
surely a fox to be preserved if only for his skin.
The Channel Islands, especially Santa Cruz,
are treasure houses for botanists, as here are
found many plants peculiar to the mountains that
seem to rise from the sea, and many more that are
indigenous only to the islands.
When the east is in the icy grip of winter, and
a large part of the continent is enduring gales,
frost, ice and snow, the Channel Islands are ver-
itable gardens of the sea. No fairer picture can
be imagined than Santa Cruz in midwinter as
one floats along the blue sea; then to land, and
climb the rugged hills, and look across to Santa
Barbara in the distance. At such times the ang-
ler may wish he were a botanist, that he might
take in all the beauties of the plant life of these
islands. Although at first sight sometimes the
islands appear barren, treeless and without ver-
dure, when the rain comes, the rocky slopes are
transformed into green glades. Even on for-
saken San Nicholas, which is farther offshore
than the Santa Barbara group, charming flowers
grow, fighting the fierce winds that threaten to
end their existence.
The person who supposes that fishing is the
258
AND MONTECITO
sole attraction of the islands, loses the essence of
their charm in summer. To enter fully into en-
joyment of their beauties, one should leave the
haunts of men and wander off on a voyage of
discovery, seeking out the unknown spots.
Due to their unusual climate, the islands have
plants in bloom every month in the year. The
first rains come in October or November, and in
a short time the brown ground is tinted with
green; this lasts perhaps until April or May,
when the green grass turns to hay and the land
takes on deep brown tints, and new flowers
bloom. All this time the chaparral or brush
never fades, so the island and canyons are always
green in sheltered places, and always attractive
whether in green or brown.
The winters on the islands are delightful,
and the summers are practically perfect. There
is no rain between May and November, no
storms, and the days and nights are almost invar-
iably cooler than any seaside resort on the Atlan-
tic Coast between Nova Scotia and Florida. A
few hot days come now and then, as this is not a
real Paradise, but taking the summer as a whole,
the islands have no equal for absolute comfort
anywhere.
San Miguel lies to the west of the Santa Bar-
bara group, three miles from Santa Rosa, and is
so near Point Concepcion that it is more exposed
to winds than the others, and is a dangerous place
for shipping. It is just over seven miles long,
east and west, and about two miles wide, the land
rising in two peaks in the centre, these peaks be-
ing just over eight hundred feet high. It has
259
SANTA BARBARA
few beaches; its shores are bold and rocky, and
at the west end, when the wind blows hard, there
are many sand dunes. There are no trees, and
but few bushes of any kind, the chief verdure be-
ing long coarse grass. After the rains wild flow-
ers appear, and it may be assumed that many
years ago San Miguel may have been as well
wooded as the rest of the islands, but is now be-
ing blown into the sea. The devastating winds
are causing rivers of sand to flow into the harbor,
and upon these rivers tobogganing and sliding
can be enjoyed as upon snow.
As San Miguel is approached from Santa
Rosa, the east end is seen to be a clifif about forty
feet high, known as Cardwell Point, from which
a reef reaches out for about half a mile. About
two and one-half miles northwest from here is
Cuyler's Harbor where Cabrillo is said to lie.
Many attempts have been made to find his re-
mains and give him suitable honor as the discov-
erer of California, but so far without result.
There is landing for small boats at various
places, but the island abounds in rocks, small
islands and shoals, and should be approached
carefully, especially in rough weather. On it
are the same kind of mounds found on the other
islands, showing that in the early days the place
was the home of many Indians who lived well
and easily on the vast fish supply of the surround-
ing waters. San Miguel will impress the vis-
itor by the many little rocky islands spread abour
it, often needle-like peaks rising out of deep
water, the home of the eagle or osprey, and
where no doubt many a ship has met its doom.
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AND MONTECITO
Santa Rosa, one of the most attractive of the
Santa Barbara Islands, has been the scene of
many a romance. In 1834 it was granted by the
Spanish Crown to Don Carlos and Don Jose
Carrillo, members of the famous Santa Barbara
family. Don Carlos had two daughters, famed
for their beauty and grace; J. P. Jones, U. S.
Consul to the Hawaiian Islands, met one at the
Casa Carrillo at Santa Barbara, and married her,
while the other sister married Captain A. B.
Thompson. The dowry of both brides from
Don Carlos was joint ownership in the island of
Santa Rosa, practically forty-five thousand acres,
seven or eight miles long and ten in width, well
watered, made up of mountain, valley and mesa,
with bountiful fisheries. A princely gift, even
in those early days.
The two families owned the island jointly,
and for years carried on a profitable business in
sheep-raising. The island ranch house was the
scene of many gay entertainments, especially at
shearing time when parties were taken over and
the event celebrated with music and dancing.
In time disagreements arose, and after some liti-
gation, Santa Rosa passed into other hands, and
is still used as a great stock ranch.
Santa Rosa is a delightful place to visit for
an outing, and a month could be spent in explor-
ing all the interesting points. Like the rest of
the islands, Nicalque, as it was called, had a
large native population, and its great sand dunes
were formerly strewn with relics of the past.
Utensils of bone, wood, stone, and clay, and many
articles made from abalone shells — the meat
261
SANTA BARBARA
from which formed their chief diet — have been
gathered and sent to the great museums.
One of the aboriginal towns appears to have
been three miles in length. A large quantity of
Indian implements and relics of various kinds
have been exhumed, and many tons forwarded
to the Smithsonian Institute -at Washington.
From the highest peak, Monte Negro, 1565
feet, a wonderful view is obtained. To the north
Headland, Santa Cruz Island.
are the Santa Ynez mountains, and the other
islands are seen east and west. The shores are
precipitous clififs, abounding in great caves and
little bays and sand-dunes often two hundred
feet high, always changing in the strong wind.
The extreme northern end of the island is called
Carrington Point; for nearly a mile it faces the
sea with a bold front at least four hundred feet
high, a notable sight from a long distance.
Nearly the entire island is surrounded by kelp
which is a refuge for innumerable fishes.
The island is famed for its fishing, and the
262
AND MONTECITO
rocky shores abound in shellfish. The animals
found are similar to those on the other islands;
there are extensive sea-lion rookeries, and sea-
birds of many kinds make their homes here.
On Santa Rosa the verdure is similar to that
on the neighboring shore — no large trees, but
moist canyons filled with many interesting plants.
After the rains grass covers the open spots, and
in a short time flowers are in bloom, and the is-
land resembles a garden. The island is wxll-
watered; in one of its charming little valleys a
tiny river ripples musically on its way to the sea.
Valdez, Cave, Santa Cruz Island.
Santa Cruz is twenty-one miles long, extend-
ing almost east and west, with an average width
263
SANl^A BARBARA
of five miles. On the western end a peak rises
a little over half a mile, and another at the east-
ern end to over fifteen hundred feet; on the is-
land are several peaks rising to thirteen, four-
teen and fifteen hundred feet, and some to the
north to a height of over twenty-four hundred
feet.
In climate the island may be compared to
the European Riviera, and there are here none
of the hot winds from Africa and cold ones from
the Alps. The eastern end, San Pedro Point, is
twenty-one and one-half miles from Santa Bar-
bara and four miles from Anacapa, and the chan-
nel between the islands abounds in fish.
Santa Cruz Island is densely wooded com-
pared to the rest of the group ; owing to the dense
fogs, the hills are wxll covered. Trees have been
brought from Italy by property-owners, and
there are groves of eucalyptus, pines, and firs,
and many fine oaks. On Santa Cruz, as well as
on Santa Rosa, there are many luxuriant growths
of ferns.
A visit should certainly be made to the caves
w^ith which Santa Cruz abounds, among them
the famous Painted Cave. This cave, more re-
markable even than the grotto of Capri, is really
beneath the mountains. Passing through the
Gothic arch at the entrance, the name is well
understood, as the salts have dyed it in a fantas-
tic manner, in brilliant yellows, soft browns, reds,
greens, and white. The first room opening from
the sea is about sixty feet high, the walls beauti-
fully colored. From this lead other caves, some
of which are unexplored. The cave known as
264
Views of Anacapa Island.
SANTA BARBARA
Cucva Valdez, toward the east end on the north
side is quite as remarkable as the Painted Cave.
This is partly on land, and will hold several
hundred people. One entrance opens on the
little bay, the other on a sandy canyon leading up
into the mountains
Almost everyvvhere on the islands have been
found relics of the primitive inhabitants, and no
one can look upon the really beautiful objects
which have been discovered, beads, weapons,
carved cups and musical instruments, without
crediting these extinct races with imagination,
and as having been exponents of the principle
that beauty is an essential to happy life.
In explorations made during the summer of
1916 by Professor Outhwaite, anthropoligist of
the University of California, he found over 1,000
mounds. One near Prisoner's Harbor is ISO feet
wide, 300 feet long, and some 18 feet in depth.
He intimates that at least one thousand persons
lived on the island from the evidence found in
the mounds.
The canyons in Santa Cruz are beautiful,
filled with beds of ferns and giant brakes, banked
with verdure, with the music of running water
and the song of birds.
Nowhere is there more of a contrast of ver-
dure in winter and spring, and barren desolation
the rest of the year, as at Santa Cruz. One may
leave the fruit-laden valley, climb the hills, and
look down on drear sand-dunes and on rocks
broken by the sea.
It may not be generally known that there are
colonies of wild pigs on the islands of Santa
266
AND MONTECITO
Cruz and Santa Rosa, and the hunting of these
provides exciting sport. These pigs, some of
which attain great size, being adapted to their
life in the steep canyons and on the mountain
slopes are very active, and hunters on foot have
to exercise care, as the charge of a wild boar
down a mountain slope might have serious con-
sequences for the person charged. How these
pigs came into the islands is not known, but it is
likely that they are descendents of hogs brought
there decades ago by the Spaniards.
The Island of Anacapa, the smallest of the
Santa Barbara group, is the most easterly, and
is not over eleven miles from the mainland at the
nearest point. To all intents and purposes it is
one island, but when approached, it mysteriously
divides itself into three or more; doubtless the
divisions have been eaten in by the insatiable
tooth of the sea. The island forming the east end
is the lowest, about a mile long and a quarter of
a mile wide, with an altitude of about two hun-
dred feet. The middle island or link in the An-
acapa chain is nearly three hundred and twenty
feet high, about a mile and a half long, and a
quarter of a mile wide. The largest island lies
to the west. Its peak, nearly a thousand feet
high, can be seen for several miles on a clear day;
the others can also be sighted from afar, and are
so peculiar in appearance that they resemble a
mirage. The island, like many others, rises out
of deep water and is surrounded by kelp, which
afifords refuge for innumerable tuna, bonito and
bass.
The coast is a maze of strange caves eaten
267
SANTA BARBARA
into the rock; one of great size is supposed to
have been used by the pirates of old, and until
late years was the refuge of seals. Many of the
caves are beneath or just on the surface, and are
constantly hissing like living things, spouting
water in great jets with the tremendous force of
compressed air.
There are several anchorages, and a small
boat can, with care, land almost any^vhere.
To the eye the island is arid, but all the pools
and crevices are filled with animal life, and beau-
tiful anemones line the rocks. There are also
colonies of sea-birds, the royal tern, cormorant
and brown pelican breeding in large numbers.
Anacapa was no doubt thrown up by some
upheaval of the earth's crust; that it had a popu-
lation long ago is apparent, as deposits of ancient
shells and relics have been found there; now, it
is no doubt an island in the last stages, fighting
for its life against the ever-increasing ravages of
the sea.
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