UNIVERSITY FARM
TJ/Z35'
G-Z
SAW FILING
AND
Management of Saws
A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON
Filing, Gumming, Swaging, Hammering and Brazing
Band Saws. Speed, Power and Work to Operate
Circular Saws, etc. "With Full Directions for Filing,
Setting, Polishing, Joining, Straightening and Polish-
ing Hand, Butchers', Band and Circular Saws. Files
to Use, Useful Hints for Repairing and Caring for
Saws. Coiling and Brazing Band Saws, Home-
Made Sets and Clamps, Emergency Repairs, etc.
Complete tables of proper shape, pitch and set of saw teeth as
well as sizes and number of teeth of various saws are included.
By ROBERT GRIMSHAW, M.E.
Third Edition. Revised and Enlarged.
Fully Illustrated with over 100 Engravings.
New York
THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO.
132 Nasgau Street
1912
Copyright 1882
By ROBERT GRIMSHAW, M.E.
Copyright 1901 and 1912
By NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING COMPANY
Macgowan & Slipper
Printer*
30 Beekman Street
New York City
I
This book is designed as a practical aid to those
who use saws for any purpose. While, as its title
implies, it treats principally of saw-filing, it also
goes into the questions of gumming, spring-setting,
and swaging. The author has tried to bring it
up to present successful usage, and will be glad
to receive from practical sawyers and others for
future editions, questions, suggestions, and infor-
mation bearing on the subject.
Preface to the Third Edition
In order to bring this work strictly up-to-date
and include the latest ideas and developments of
modern methods, this volume has been revised,
re-edited and considerable new material added.
During many years' experience in using saws of
nearly every kind, size and make, and frequently
in out-of-the-way localities, many useful and handy
ideas have been developed by the Editor, and in
order that these original "wrinkles" may prove of
use or benefit to others, they have been embodied
in the new material added to this volume.
THE AUTHOR.
November, 1912.
SAW FILING
AND
Management of Saws
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
LIBRARY
BRANCH OF THE
COLLEGE OF AGRICQLTURfi
INTRODUCTION.
THERE is no more sense in using a dull saw
than in shaving with a dull razor.
It is a great deal easier to keep a saw sharp
by frequent light file-touches, than to let it get
so dull as to need a long-continued filing down,
after it gets so dulled as to refuse to work.
The saving in power, by using a sharp saw,
is very great. It has never yet been measured
in power-saws, and is hardly measurable in
hand-saws ; but it is without doubt consider-
able.
By using sharp saws, thinner blades may be
used than where the teeth are dull ; because
the duller the saw the more power required to
drive it through the wood, and the more strain
on each tooth separately, and on the blade as a
whole.
For the same reason, longer teeth may be
used where they are sharp, than where they
are dull.
The advantage of using sharp teeth is great-
est in those saws in which the strain of cutting
tends to deform the blade — as in all " push-
cut " straight saws and in circulars.
SAW-FILING.
Classification of Saws. — There are four
general classes of saws — reciprocating, circular,
band, and cylinder ; * and four classes of teeth
— the V or cross-cut, the ^^*\ or ripping
tooth, the M or W, and the hook ; with their
variations and combinations.
Each of these requires special treatment, as
distinguished from the others, and particular
adaptation to conditions of saw, speed, thick-
ness, and character of material and work, etc.
Saws for use in fibrous materials, such as
wood, act in two ways — for ripping, or cutting
with the grain, and for cross-cutting or divid-
ing at right angles (or thereabouts) to the
fiber.
In ripping fibrous material, each fiber is
severed by each tooth only once at a stroke, but
many times in successive strokes ; while in
cross-cutting, each fiber is cut off in two places
at a stroke, and never again cut off in that
line.
*For fuller classification of saw-blades, see "Grim-
shaw on Saws," page 12.
9
10 SAW-FILING.
Rip-Saws. — The rip-saw, having for its duty
severing each fiber once at a time in its length,
is generally given acute teeth, well raked, and
as it can act more like a mortising chisel than
can the cross-cut, it is given more gullet, be-
cause it will take greater feed per tooth.
The hand rip-saw is longer and stouter than
the hand cross-cut, being from 28" to 30" long
as against 26" for the cross-cut, and having only
3 to 5 teeth to the inch through the greater
part of its length, as against 5 to 12.*
The sash-saw for ripping, f (mill-saw) is
about the most abused tool that man uses, get-
ting the worst shaped teeth, and being allowed
to get the dullest, because the operator does not
feel that it runs hard ; nor does he see if it
is wrongly toothed, as the mulay, the circular,
or the band would clearly show by running
crooked. The teeth have seldom enough
" rake " or front pitch, nor enough gullet ;
they are, too, frequently given excessive and
irregular set.
The mulay rip-saw J gets better care than the
sash. The teeth are about the same.
* For various forms and styles of hand-saws and
handles therefor, see " Grim shaw on Saws," pages 18,
30, 33 to 35.
f See same work, pages 21 to 23 and 33.
j See same work, page 20.
SAW-FILING. 11
The circular rip-saw responds better than
any other to skill in toothing and mounting,
and to ease in running. Its teeth should be
widely spaced and very hooking, with plenty of
gullet to take out the chips (not dust) which
it should make.
The band-saw * is never used for cross-cut-
ting, except when cutting scroll-work, and may
generally be treated as a rip-saw. It requires
special regularity in shape and set of teeth to
prevent it from breaking and from running into
the work.
The Cross-Cut Saw f has for its r'uty
severing each fiber crosswise ; and in order to
prevent pinching or binding, it divides each fiber
in two places at once, leaving a path or
"kerf" for the blade to run in and the ma-
terial to fall out through.
If you undertook to divide a board in two,
crosswise, by successive knife-cuts, you would
soon find the necessity for having a groove at
least as wide as the thickness of the blade ; and
this could be accomplished only by severing
each fiber twice ; making two parallel cuts
* " Grimshaw on Saws," page 83.
f For various styles of cross-cuts saws and of handles
therefor, see same work, pages 37 to 48 of 2d edi-
tion.
12 SAW-FILING.
between which the material was removed to
leave the "kerf."
The action of the cross-cut saw is analogous
— it makes two parallel sawings, and removes
the short lengths between them.
Ordinarily, every other tooth is beveled to
right and to left, so as to help make the right
hand or the left hand score. The front view
of a rightly filed straight cross-cut, with teeth
beveled to right and left alternately, should be
as in Fig. 1, and the filing should be
so accurate that a needle could be slid
along the groove left between or
formed by the beveled tooth edges.
But instead of making a kerf having
a bottom of ridged section, the re-
sult is the crumbling out of the ma-
terial as fast as the scoring progresses,
and the kerf is left square bottomed.
It is the outside edge of each tooth
that does the cutting.
The Elements of a Saw Tooth * are its
face, point, back, and gullet.
Teeth vary in length, thickness, spacing,
rake, amount and kind of set, fleam, outline
and direction, and in depth and outline of throat
or "gullet."
* See " Griiuskaw on Saws," pages 12 to 20.
SA \\~-FlLIlsrG.
13
They have for offices cutting, cleaning, and
planing.
They are either solid (in one piece with the
plate of the saw), or in-
serted.
The cutting edge of a
saw may have all teeth of
a kind, or several kinds in
regular order.
Teeth may be simple or
compound.*
The gullet may be angu-
lar, notched, or rounded.
Whatever be the style of
saw or of tooth, it is im-
perative that all teeth of a
kind shall be of uniform
outline and dimensions —
except in those cases (as
"increment toothed
saws ") where the teeth
purposely vary in size in
regular progression, f
* Various styles of compound and special teeth are
shown and described in the author's work on Saws, pages
12 to 20, 28, 38 to 48, 57 to 61, 64, 71, 73 to 81, 87, 109
to 119, 128, 138, 157, 170 to 177, and 204.
f Grirashaw on Saws, pages 20 to 23, 28, 34, and 59.
14
SAW-FILING.
Tooth Length. — The softer the material
the greater
the length o f
tooth among
materials of the
same general
class. Long
teeth give plenty
of clearance for
sawdust ; hence
are good for soft,
wet, or fibrous
woods.
The length of
cleaner teeth
may be r e g u -
lated by a gauge
such as that
shown in Fig. 58
When a cross-
cut needs more
cleaners, they
may be made by
filing down cut-
ting teeth, as
shown in Fig. 3,
taking care to
bring them below the cutting line.
SAW-FILING.
15
The thinner and longer the teeth, the greater
the importance of having even, and not exces-
sive, set ; because a thick or a short tooth will,
more readily than a thin or along one, with-
stand a tendency to spring into the cut.
The difficulty of springing into the cut is
met with only in sawing fibrous (although per-
haps we may add granular) materials. It is
greater with teeth having excessive rake and
" fleam," (or side angle) than with those of
straight pitch, filed square across.
Tooth Space. — The following table gives
lengths, sizes, and spaces of teeth of hand-saws :
NAME.
LENGTH.
GAUGE.
POINTS TO INCH.
(Hand
26"
19
5 to 12
11 *>P
gS 1 Panel. . ..
P.-^ Compass.* .
£g [Keyhole.*..
28" to 30"
14" to 24"
10" to 20"
7" to 9"
18
22 to 20
16
12
j Heel, 3 to 5
1 Point, 6 to 8
8 to 12
? r
05 -d !
•2S \ Tenon
« : « 1 Miter
«£
6" to 18"
20" to 30"
22 to 20
20 to 19
11 to 15
10 to 11
•ucq
cc I
Hand rip-saws may have coarser teeth at the
heel than at the point, so that fine teeth com-
mence and coarse ones finish the cut.
* Narrow blades for curve-sawing.
16
For soft wood, band-saws sliould hare a
tooth-space one-half the blade Avidth, and depth
one-filth. For hard wood, space one-third, and
depth one-fifth.
Fig. 4.
Angle and Rake. — The generic angle of
saw-teeth is 60°. Teeth of any other angle can-
not be filed well without a special file, as can
those shown in Figs. 4, 5, in which, although
Fig. 5.
the rake is different, the angle is the same.
The rake of a rip-saw is in front ; that of a
cross-cut at the side.
SAW-FILING.
17
Rip-saws take more inclination than cross-
cuts.
Teeth with great front rake tend to spring in,
especially in hard wood.*
More rake can be put on a circular than on a
rectilinear saw, partly because it runs faster,
hence can stand it.
The harder the wood the less rake there
should be.
For soft wood, teeth as at A, Fig. 6, are
good ; for hard and knotty stuif, B (60° equally
pitched front and back). For varied work C
(40° equally divided).
The teeth shown in Fig. 7 have excessive
front rake, and, while keen cutting, tend to dig
in. Fig. 8 shows various degrees of rake, and
the arrows show the direction of the strain
put upon them by the work. In Fig. 9, the
points of the teeth have considerable rake ; but
* See " Saws," pages 14 to 16.
18
SAW-FILING.
the main portions are so formed as to resist the
strain of work.
Side Angle or Fleam. — Referring to Figs.
Fig. 7.— Great Front Rake.
10 to 44 : — for metal saws, the file is held 90° in
botli vertical and horizontal angles ; for hard
Fig. 8.— Various Degrees of Rake.
woods, 90° to 80° horizontally ; for soft woods,
70° to 60° and less horizontally ; 35° to 30*
vertically.
SAW-FILING.
19
Shingle saws should be filed square across.
Fleam or side angle is better for soft woods
and those free from knots than for hemlock or
spruce.
Fig. 10 shows, greatly magnified, the teeth
of a hand rip-saw which has both bent-set, and
fleam or side angle. The arrows show the
A A A A
Fig. 9.— Strong Teeth, with very Raking Points.
direction in which the strain of work comes
upon the teeth set and fleamed to the right
side, and those bent and fieamed to the left.
As this is at right angles to the cutting edge of
the tooth, it will be seen that the greater the
fleam the greater the tendency to spring in to
the work ; and as the tendency to spring in is
also increased by bent set, the two should not
be given together.
Choice of Teeth. — With the choice of teeth
20 SAW- FILING.
for special purposes, this work will have little
to do ; this matter being treated in special de-
tail in the author's work on Saws.*
Circular-saw teeth are generally more distant
and more inclined, and have more set, than rec-
tilinear.
Pruning-saws may have half -moon or briar
teeth.
The more valuable the material and the
Fig. 10. — Spring Set and Side Angle.
greater the cost of power, the thinner the
teeth and the less the set should be ; although
in general the harder the material, the thicker
the teeth, to stand the greater strain.
The softer the material, the more depth,
" fleam," " hook," and " rake," may be given.
The more fibrous and porous the material,
* See pages 12, 18, 65, 234, of 3d edition of that work.
SAW-FILING.
21
*:— 0
the greater may be the spacing, and the greater
the necessity of deep throat or gullet.
Gumming may be done with punches, rotat-
ing steel cutters, or e
emery-wheels.
In' Fig. 11, the
dotted line B shows
where the point first
wears ; CCC, how it
should be filed back ;
but too often, on ac-
count of the long sur-
face, and the sharp
Corner at /, the fil- Fig. ll. -Tooth Wear and Gumming.
ing is done on the top. Filing back in the line
CCC, the diameter is diminished only to Fy
while from the top you
"*S. work it down to D.
*\^X In Fig. 12, the same
XX tooth is shown, gummed
l\w by a machine, and leaving
J \ but little underfil-
^/_J ing-
Fig. i&— Machine Gumming. The higher the speed,
the greater necessity for rounding the gul-
let.
Band-saws particularly require rounded gul-
lets.
2 SAW-FILING.
In Fig. 13, tooth A is shown to need gullet-
ing ; tooth B is all right.
Fig. 15 shows a very bad
job of gumming.
Reversible Blade
Gummer. — A gummer
for circulars, with the
blades reversible and de-
tachable, as shown in Fig.
f 14,* has the advantage
\ that both cutting edges
5 of the blades may be
^ sharpened at once, and
| when one edge is dulled
o the other may be turned ;
s besides which the gum-
Jj mer cuts practically the
Jj same sized circle all the
dj time.
^ Mixter's Rotary
Gummer. — The same
firm makes Mixter's gum-
ming machine, to use
these cutters. (See Fig.
16.)
Kind of Set.— Set is of
two kinds — " spring " or
*R. L. Orr & Co., Pittsburg,
SAW-FILIITG.
24 SAW-FILING.
"bent" set, and "swaged" or "spread"
set.
Bent set teeth cut upon only one side ; spread
set teeth cut upon both sides, unless they are
either bent or " sheared" as well as swaged.
Each method of setting has its advantages
and disadvantages, according to the conditions.
Of course, bent set teeth have more of this
Fig. 15.— Very Bad Gumming.
tendency than swaged ones, and the great ci the
bend, the more tendency to spring in.
A swaged tooth, being supported on both
sides, is less subject to side strains than one
which is bent for set.
Bending for Set may be done by blows or by
leverage — the latter including bending by cams.
Either may be accomplished by a machine or by
simple hand tools.
SAW-FILING.
26 SAW-FILING.
To set by blows, without a machine, the
blade must be gripped close to the ends of the
teeth, and the blow struck quickly with a light
hammer — the blows being as uniform in force
as possible, in order to bend all teeth alike.
Avoid either too short or too long set ; the
former causing too sharp bending of the tooth
near the point, and the latter (the less evil of
the two) requiring more force to effect.
Where bent set is effected by hammer blows,
it is by many thought best to slightly overset,
and then lightly correct the excess by gentle
taps, in the case of large saws, noting the
exact and proper amount of projection by
means of a simple sheet-steel set-gauge.
For large teeth, there may be used special
set levers, having two set screws — one to
accommodate the instrument to various thick-
nesses of saw plate, and the other to regu-
late, as a stop, the amount of bending.
Small teeth may readily be bent for set by
a simple notch in the end of a file.
Cam sets produce a bent set that is neces-
sarily the same for all the teeth of each
saw.
Figs. 19 and 20 show cam sets for circular
and band saws, devised by C. E, Grandy, </
South Barton, Vt.
SAW-FILING.
Spread Set may be ef-
fected by direct hammer
blows on the teeth, or by
"crotch punches" or dies
applied to the tooth ends
and struck by a hammer.
Large mill-saw teeth may
be upset by blows of a flat-
faced hammer, using the
firmly-held butt of an axe
as an anvil or counter ;
but this method is crude,
and at best unsatisfactory.
The operation may be
shortened and facilitated,
and the work made more
perfect and uniform, by
having a die of suitable
outline and faces, into
which the metal of the-
tooth-point is spread by
smart hammer blows on
the instrument.
Usually, these upsets
have two notches, one
merely to spread the tooth-
point, and the other to limit
28
SAW-FILING.
its side dimensions and give the cutting edge,
when desired, a slightly concave
form.
There being some difficulty in
properly hardening the angles of
single-piece crotch punches, so as
to preserve the original straight
form,* they are now best made
^. with a saw-cut in the angle, the
& metal being kept to size and form
i by means of a strong steel band,
g which drives the walls of the crotch
i hard together, and gives a straight
•$ line, which may be renewed when
£ worn by taking off the band, dress-
o ing out the cut, and driving the
J5 walls together again.
.bb In swaging or upsetting teeth,
care should be taken not to make
the corners too sharp. There
should be enough metal back of
them to hold them out firm with-
out breaking off ; and this in no
wise affects the sharpness of the
front of the tooth, which is the
chisel-edge that does the work,
* The hardening fluid does not always reach into the
angle, where the greatest hardness is required.
SAW-FILING.
and which may be straight, convex or concave,
at the option of the sawyer.
The ideal swaged tooth, looking only at the
question of strength of corners, would be
Fig. 19.— Cam Set for Circular?.
somewhat like Fig. 21 ; but as it would be
impossible to swage cold -tempered steel by
hand into such an outline, the form shown
in Fig. 22, which is a possible one, should be
30
SAW-FILING.
aimed at. The form shown in Fig. 23 has
extremely weak corners, and if one of them
crumbles off, the other gets all the work, and
is liable to go too. If both go, then the tooth
'. '20.— -Cam Set for Hands.
behind has an extra load thrown upon it, and
so on. The finer the feed, the greater the
proportion of work thrown on the tooth cor-
ners, as compared with the front face. AVitli
very coarse feed, the action of the tooth is
SAW-FILING.
31
more like tha^ z>f a mortising chisel, getting a
full cut all across its face; so that if the
corners were gone, the chisel would tear
through anyhow, leaving to the next tooth
behind the duty of trimming square the ragged
edges of the cut.
If it were practicable to swage and file teeth
into such a shape
as is indicated in
Fig. 24, in which
there is a cutting
edge at each side
as well as in front,
the greatest possi-
ble smoothness of
ut would be at-
ined.
Such a tooth
ould have a strong
rner, well sup- Figs. 21, 22, 23.
ported from behind, and from this there
might be a taper, as in Fig. 21, or else the
plate behind might be of even thickness, with
a slight sweep as a strengthening curve.
The Gridley tooth has both spring and
spread set and "shear." (See Fig. 25.)
Various devices for spreading and bending
teeth are shown in " Saws," pages 127, 180,
258, &c.
32 SAW-FILING.
In swaging, the "upset" tool should be so
held as to deliver the blow in a line with the
face of the tooth. If inclined, so that the
blow comes in the direction of the back of the
tooth, or further out, there is danger of a crack
starting in the gullet, especially in frosty
weather.
. 2G.— Leslie Swage.
Fig. 2G shows the Leslie "solid swage,"
made by R. L. Orr, of Pittsburg, and which is
claimed to be able to equalize the Ings of such
a tooth as Fig. 23, by drawing the metal over
to the desired side. This swage has what is
called a " three-fold convex surface," and is
provided with guides for regulating its exjict
position on the saAV, and hence the shape of
the point which it gives the tooth. The
"three-fold convex" surface is formed by the
SAW-FILING.
33
intersection of two right cylinders, its property
being to spread the metal of the tooth
in both directions from the center,
tit right angles from the body of the
saw, leaving the tooth curved on the
face, hack, and edge. A light file touch
is then used to bring the edge straight
if desired.
In drawing over a tooth to change
the lead of a saw, with this swage, the
screws provided for the purpose are
set out so as to cant the swage on the
saw, with the result of making the
hlow come on one side of the tooth, and crowd
the metal towards the other.
Amount of Set. — Circular saws re-
]uire more set than rectilinear, because
they run faster and are apt to wab-
ble.
Ice-saws should have excessive set, to
prevent clogging.
There should be very little set to
veneer saws, by reason of the great cost
of the material.
The more gummy the material, the
greater the need of " set " or side
clearance.
Small, narrow blades of jig-saws should be
34
SAW-FILING.
eased off with the file, a gauge or so in thick-
ness, if not already made so.
Band and jig saws require more set for short
curves than for those of long radius.
A tapered jig-saw blade is shown in Fig. 27.
Such a blade needs neither spread nor spring
set to its teeth, but will keep cool in hard
Fig. 28.— Forms of Circular Saw Teeth.
wood, and cut short curves without bind
ing-
Leading in or out of the log is very often
caused l>y giving more fleam or more set on
one side than on the oilier.
Gullet, or Throat. — The greater the feed,
the greater the gullet needed.
Spaulding's rule for throat room of circulars
is to double the number of cubic inches of
SAW-FILING. 35
wood removed at one revolution, and divide
by the number of teeth, to get the required
number of square inches of gullet per tooth.
Insufficient gullet, throat or chamber, causes
the saw to choke and heat, the rim to become
too large, and the plate to run "snaky."
The gullet should be rounding, as in Figs.
29 and 30, and not angular, as in Figs. 31
and 32, in which case cracks may start ;
and in any instance sharp corners are
the hardest on files. V
" Top Jointing " (also called | |
"rounding" when applied to circular
saws) is bringing the points of all the
teeth down to the same line, so that no
one tooth shall project lengthwise be-
yond the others, and thereby receive
undue strain. It is generally performed
with a flat or "mill" file ; although it
may be done by a plane rubber of emery
or corundum, or a whet-stone. It is best
effected with the saw mounted in a special but
simple jointing frame, or its equivalent.* It
is a very necessary operation.
Side Jointing not only gives each tooth its
exact share of work, but prevents scratching
* " Saws," page 248.
36 SAW-FILING.
of the lumber caused by too great side pro-
jection of a tooth, and what is about as un-
sightly, "ridging," caused by a tooth not
cutting out to full kerf width, and hence
leaving a ridge on the lumber ;
although ridging is often largely
effaced by the action of the fol-
lowing teeth.
" Side jointing" is a corrective
of irregular setting, and prevents
» undue side-projection of any tooth
| or teeth beyond the rest. It is
^ more effective with swaged teeth
| than with those bent for set.
* The "side file" (Fig. 33) may
, °*m be adjusted by the set screws t<?
£ any set desired.
Choice of a Saw. — A hand-
savr must be springy and elastic,
with almost a "Toledo blade"
temper. There is no economy in
buying a soft saw ; it costs more
^ in a year for files and filing than
a hard one dovs, dulls sooner and drives harder,
and does not last as long.
Frequency of Filing. — Saw teeth should
bo filed, set, and jointed frequently, and
gummed at regular and not widely distant
SAW-FILING.
37
times. The keener and more regular the teeth,
the cleaner and easier they j
will work.
Hand vs. Machine Fil-
ing and Setting. — Hand
filing generally has the ad-
vantage of convenience in
time and place.
Machine filing has the
advantage of greater regu-
larity, ease, speed, and
cheapness of work.
Hand filing may be ren-
dered more regular by the
use of file-guides.*
The same remarks may
be made concerning the rel-
ative merits and demerits
of hand and machine set-
ting, as in reference to hand
and machine filing, f
Fig. 34 is an adjustable
filing guide for circular or
straight saws. It will file
* See "Grimshaw on Saws,"
second edition, page 123.
fFor various machine saw-
sets, see same work, pages 120, 127, 181.
38
SAW-FILING.
a tooth square top and bottom, or bevel point
and square back, or square point and bevel
back ; and will file either from right to left, or
the reverse.
Eig. 35 shows a filing guide, having a grad-
Fig. 36.— Amesbury's Band-Saw Filing Machine.
uated circle numbered from its center each
way, giving bevels for each side of the saAv.
Other machines for this purpose are shown
in the larger work on Saws.
SAW- FILING.
39
Fig. 36 shows an automatic band-saw filing
machine,* which employs a spiral file in two
sections — one to cut the faces and to feed the
blade on, and the other to file the backs.
Fig. 81.— Angular Gullets.
F\£. 32.— Angular Gullet*.
Filing Clamps. — The screeching of saw-
filing is proverbial, and yet unnecessary. A
saw properly clamped and rightly filet I need
* Made by G. W. Aireslmry & Co., Philadelphia.
40
SAW-FILING.
not " screech " under the operation. The blade
must be firmly held close to the bottoms of
teeth, and the file held firmly against the teeth.
{. Side File.
Knbber, leather, or even soil, (hick paste-
board be( \veeii the blade and the jaws of the
SAW-FILING.
41
clamp will absorb most of the vibrations, and
render the operation more nearly noiseless.
If a saw shake and jar while being filed,
it will strip the file ; hence it ought to be kept
close down to the edges of the clamps.
tf. 34. -File Guide.
Fig. 37 shoAvs a convenient form of saw-
filing clamp.
Files. — The files used are triangular, flat or
mill, round or gnlleting, and special.
There are many sizes of saw-files and mnny
grades of coarseness of cut.*
* These are more fully illustrated than the limits of
this hand-book permit, in the larger work on Saws.
SAW-FILIKG,
Fig. 35.— Filing Guide.
SAW-FILING. 43
Many styles of special teeth are best sharp-
ened with files of special section, made on
purpose for them ; and some cannot be sharp-
ened with any other than special files.
The face of the file should be double as wide
as the length of the tooth-face. (See Figs. 4,
5). In Fig. 38 the file is somewhat too
narrow.
A saw file cannot well be too hard, nor too
sharply cut. To preserve its cutting powers,
it should not be so held and used as to strip
the teeth against the edges of the saw tooth.
It should not be thrown down carelessly, nor
knocked about among other files or tools. The
corners are particularly liable to be stripped in
the angles between the teeth.
'• Increment cut " files, or those in which the
distance between the teeth increases from
3m t to heel, are claimed to work cleaner and
easier than those in which the spacing is
egular.
Hand-cut files are claimed to work better
than any machine-cut, except the "increment "
toothed.
In some cases the file is so shaped and held as
to sharpen the back of one tooth and the face
of the one behind it. This frequently oc-
curs with such small teeth as have no curved
44
SAW-FILING.
outlines, and is especially handy where the
angle of the gullet is 60°, as is generally the
case where the throat is sharp-cornered.
g. 37.— Saw-Filing Chimp.
Saw files should he "float" or single cut.
The ordinary triangular saw file is double
SAW-FILING.
tapered — a contour not to be recommended on
the score of cither clean work or economy.
Since, however, a taper saw file will continue
to he demanded, it is well that it he offered in
the best possible modification.
One important improvement is the forma-
tion of a knoh or button at the top, affording
firmer hold for the thumb and forefinger, and
not making them sore where tiling is in-
frequent. Double taper tiles are also
Fi-. 5
'double ended" or "'reversible/' and these
too ure sometimes "knob-ended."
Band-saw tiles must have rounded angles so
< to insure round throats to the teeth. (See
?ig. 3'.).)
System. — Saw filing, to be effected regu-
irly, neatly and rapidly, and with minimum
ear of files, must he gone about in a
systematic manner, in order that no tooth may
he omitted nor gone over twice.
46
SAW-FILING.
For instance : the face of every
other tooth may be gone over in regu-
lar succession ; then either the backs
of those teeth, or the faces of the
intermediates, and so on.
The following cuts and descriptions
will illustrate systematic filing of
various types of hand saws.
Fig. 40 is for metal frame saws.
Fig. 41 is a peg tooth, with plenty
of fleam. Mill saws and M teeth are
sharpened about the same as this.
File sides 1, 5, 9 (the left of al-
termite teeth), at horizontal angle, h;
then opposite sides of same teeth, 2,
6, 10, with reverse angle li .
Then take the other teeth, and file
from the other side of the blade, 12,
8, 4 ; then 11, 7, 3.
In Fig. 42, the file cuts a front and a
back at once. " Top " the teeth, then
file 1, 5, 9, on alternate teeth, clear
back to the center of each tooth left
by topping. Then take sides 2 and 3,
(> and 7, 10 and 11 of the notches, and
file them forward to meet the line a.
This finishes faces 3, 7, 11. Then
change the saw end for end, and finish
backs 4, 8, 12.
SAW -FILING.
47
Fig. 43 shows a pruning saw for green
wood, ground thin at the back, and having no
set. It lias great amount of bevel, and cuts
"sweetly."
48 SAW- FILING.
Fig. 44 is done with a pit saw-file smaller
than the gullet. First make gullets 3, 7, 11,
very obliquely in the vertical plane ; first fil-
SAW-FILING.
49
ing the face of one tooth, and then the back of
the other. Then file ^
the backs of teeth s VL.
4, 8, 12, with flat
side of file, at an
angle 5° to 40° with
the edge, and 80° to
60° with the side of
the blade (the 5°
and 80° being for
the hardest woods,
and the 40" and (iO°
for the softest).
One common rule
given is as follows :
File the faces or
fronts before the
backs. Where the
teeth are to be
square, file in regu-
lar succession, 1, 2,
3,4.
Where there is
"fleam," file 1, 3,
5, 7 to right ; 2, 4,
C, 8 to left, etc.
File the fronts of all teeth set from you, and
the backs of those srt towards you.
50
SAW-FILING.
Circular Saw Teeth should be fled en
the under side.
Hints.— The first six or eight inches at the
point of a hand rip-saw
may be given "cross-
cut " pitch, with which
you can cut through
knots without changing
saws.
The last teeth of
cross-cuts may be
rounded at the points
to prevent tearing on
entering and leaving.
A sheet-steel gauge
(Fig. 45) will show if
a circular saw tooth is
exactly to shape.
A templet for making
all the teeth of a cir-
cular saw of the same
outline, distance be-
1 ween points, and dis-
tance from the saw
center, may be made of
savv plate or sheet xinc,
and used on a radial arm, as shown in Fig. 46,
while the saw is on the arbor.
S AAV- FILING. 51
Where a tooth is only slightly broken off, it
brought up by a crotch swage,, as shown
Figs. 48 and 49.
A small U gullet in the angle of teeth,, as in
SAW-FILING.
Fig. 47.
SAW-FILING.
Fig. 20, page 30, tends to save the file from
stripping.
Better file all along in three light filings,
than do the whole of each
edge at one cut.
In sharpening an under-
cut or a parallel tooth,
there is danger lest the
original shapes and sizes
get perverted, as in Figs.
51, 52.
An M tooth should have
slightly flaring sides, and
then it may be kept in
size and shape easily with
a special file, cutting side
and gullet at one operation.
Figs. 47, 50, 53, show
the manner of filing a
" Great American " cross-
cut with a special file.
When one tooth of a
circular saw is too short,
it may be brought out to
line by using the swage as
a lever while hammering
upon it. (See Figs. 48 and 49.)
Referring to Fig. 54, which shows five differ-
Fig. 50.
SAW-FILING-.
55
ent conditions of teeth of circular rip-saw-
that shown at A
has nearly all the
swaged portion bro-
ken or worn off one
side. This can be
remedied without
swaging, by squar-
ing and filing so
that both sides are
alike. Tooth B lias
the cutting edge al-
most square,, but
the corners are un-
equal. In this case
the file should be
MS 3d to make both
corners alike, as at
C, and then the
swage will bring
out the points as
at D, condensing
the metal well into
the corners ; but if
the wood is very
hard, such an out-
line as either side
pf E is preferable.
SAW-FILING.
In removing a circular saw from the arbor,
when hot at the eye, it should not be leaned
Fig. 53.
up against any tiling, else it will very likely
<>;rt dished, Px'foro taking a saw from the
SAW-FILIXG.
57
inandrel, it should be cooled by letting it run
a few mi nates, out of the cut. (Sitnonds.)
The harder the emery wheel used for gulleting
and sharpening, the more apt it is to glaze a saw.
Glazing, by reason of use of too hard emery
wheels, is apt to cause checking and splitting
of the t3eth m swaging.
Styles of Circular Saw Teeth,— Refer*
c
^\\X-
B
Fig, 55,
ring to Figs. 55, 56, 57, we find the teeth A
58 SAW-FILING.
at the left of Fig. 55 raking to a circle rather
more than half the saw diameter ; and the next
two sets, B, C, to a circle f the saw diameter.
The softer the wood, the more rake the teeth
may have. In two of these sets, B, C, tfhe back
has a separate rake rendering the teeth less
acute than if the back was in one line.
In Fig. 56, the rake of the left hand and
middle sets is to a circle not quite half the saw
diameter.
Fig. 56.
Calling these styles A to G inclusive, as let-
tered in the illustrations, Grandy would use
class E for ripping hard wood in the winter,
and C for hard wood in the summer, working
G in the summer on every class of wood. Styles
B, C, and F would be used for harder wood
than if the back had. no rakes
SAW-FILING,
59
Style F (better with a rounder gullet) would
be used, say 2 inches long for soft wood and 1§
inches long for hard ; in the first case getting f
pitch and in the second | pitch. For small pow-
er and light feed a shorter tooth is used than
when sufficiency of power enables heavier feed.
Styles H to N inclusive, Fig 57, are nearly
all, except M, forms of ripping teeth but little
K
L
M
Fig. 57.
ised in soft wood ; and M is properly a cross-
cutting tooth. L is a shape very common in
England and France ; being produced entirely
nth a mill-file. M " goes'5 quickly in frosty
veatluT, particularly when it strikes a knot.
SET. — Set the tooth and not the plate of
the saw (when bending for set). This will pre-
vent the distortion and springing of the blade,
£0 SAW-FILIXG.
and the frequent cracking natural in fine full-
tempered cast steel blades when carelessly or
wrongly spring-set.
For glue-joints it is best to use a saw without
set ; and a good workman will run a winter saw
with little or none, the back holding the blade
stiff and square, and keeping it from springing.
In this, its C3mparatively short length assists.
It requires a first-clacs workman to use a
hand-saw without set ; and, conversely, a man
who can drive a saw surely and straight,
without twist or buckle, tremble or varying
pressure, can run it with little or no set,
except in very gummy or very hard wood.
Spring ys, Spread Set— The C. 1ST. Nelson
Lumber Co., Cloquet, Minn., say : " A spring
set with a slightly shearing tooth unquestiona-
bly cuts the easiest, but as it is only the corner
of the tooth that cuts, you will require twice
as many teeth in a spring set as you will in a
full swaged saw ; and as power is a secondary
consideration in a saw-mill where fuel costs
nothing, the full swage is generally preferred
as being easier taken care of."
We must, however, take particular excep-
tion to the statement that "power is a second-
ary consideration in a saw-mill, where fuel costs
nothing."
SAW-FILING. Cl
There are other items of expense in pro-
ducing power ; the principal onts being inter-
est, wear and tear, lubrication, insurance, fire-
men's wages, " boiler compound," etc. So that
if a given amount of work can be done with 200
horse power, there is no use in paying for these
items in a 250 horse "plant."
In order to make a cross-cut fast-cutting, it
must have deep teeth, so as to give plenty of
throat room to carry out the sawdust.
One advantage in blunt end saw-files is, that
their sides are less tapered than " sharp-end-
or,"
Cleaner Gauge.— Fig. 58 shows the cleaner
gauge referred to on page 14, for keeping the
cleaver teeth of a cross-cut shorter than the
cutters, and all of a uniform length.
Gummers. — One point of advantage of a
rotating steel-cutter gummer over an emery
eel is chat, whereas an inexperienced hand
ruin a saw by case-hardening with an emery
.eel, such cannot be done with a steel-cutter,
" burr gummer." Most of the emery gum-
rs for circulars require that the saw shall be
n off its arbor to be gummed ; all burr
mcrs work with the saw in position.
SAW-FILING.
Crotch Swages. — In the manufacture rr
crotch swages, it is found that the tempering
is a difficult matter, a good many being lost in
this operation. The jaws
have to be tempered very
hard ; but if this hard tem-
per run back too far there
is a tendency for them to
split. Just around the notch
they must be very hard, and
the rest must be soft and
tough.
It is best that crotch
swages be fitted with a side
guard to prevent the hand
of the operator being injured
by the swage slipping off the
tooth. This guide may be
made to serve also as an at-
tachment to keep the swage
central, or to throw it over
so as to give the saw more
lead on one side than on the
other.
The Simonds Manufac-
turing Company makes a
swage that is claimed io act
on the teeth back from the cutting edge as
SAW -FILING. 63
well as at the edge, spreading them to the re-
quired width without materially reducing their
length. This, if accomplished as claimed,
would leave the rate of reduction of saw diame-
ter and increase the life of the saw.
It is claimed to give strong substantial
shoulders to the teeth, thus making them stand
hard work without dropping corners, and to
spread them about the saw on the face as on
the top, causing the saw to cut easy, and clear
well, and steadying it in the cut.
In the collar are depressions serving as guides
to keep the teeth in proper shape, by there
being a sharp an-gle for summer sawing, and a
ore obtuse one for winter work.
The question was asked in a recent issue of
Tlte Mechanical Engineer" of New York:
" Suppose we have a circular saw, with teeth
•aced as shown in Fig. 59. Will it make the
nt easier or harder (keeping the feed per revo-
lution the same) to cut out every other tooth,
s in Fig. 60 ? "
To this the author made substantially the
following reply :
"EDITORS MECHANICAL ENGINEER : — In the
matter of number, or distance apart, of circu-
lar saw teeth, referred to by your correspond-
ent ' Michigan,' in your last issue, page 40,
64
SAW-FILING.
i
s
SAW-FfLIKO.
65
the enclosed sketches show the effect of wide
spacing by giving increased throat-room, not
only per tooth, but in the whole saw. In Fig-
ure Gl are shown parts of three properly formed
teeth ; and the dotted rim-line gives the outer
boundary of the throat-space. Now cutting
out the middle tooth, as in reducing by one-
half the number of teeth in the saw each tooth
has to take double depth of cut, if the feed per
revolution remains the same, tooth A will have
as throat-room not only the space «, which it
had before, and the space, #, which tootli 7?
had before being cut out, but the space occu-
3ied by tooth B is also added to the throat-
oom of A. Thus, while it has double the cut,
Fig. 62.
ad hence removes double the kerf, it has
iree times the space to hold the sawdust, or
ather cuttings ; for a rip-saw should mortise
66 SAW-FILING.
its way through a log, and not make fine
dust.
" So, within certain limits, we are gainers by
removing every other tooth ; for instead of hav-
ing to cut through the fibers twice, with a given
feed per revolution, they are cut only once.
That is, if the saw is 56 inches diameter and
has 56 teeth, and the feed is 7 inches per revo-
lution, each tooth will mortise I" deep at a cut ;
whereas, with only 28 feet, each tooth will, if
the feed remains 7 inches per revolution, cut
in I inch, and have more than double the space
to hold the cuttings.
"If, then, the saw is heated and bound be-
cause of insufficient throat-room, it will be less
liable than before to do so.
"But there is another thing to look at. While
we have lessened by one-half the amount of
power expended in cutting through the fibers,
we have more than doubled the strain on the
teeth, in crumbling down and wedging out the
cuttings; and this strain tends to break out
the teeth-points. There would be cases where
it would be advisable to strengthen the tooth-
point, by deepening the gullet ; gradually work-
ing it down at each successive gumming, until
the outline was ns shown in A, Fig. 62. This
s even greater gullet than the outline shown
SAW-FILIKG. 67
in Fig. Gl ; the back and face of the tooth have
the same rake as before, but the points are
stronger.
" The question of few or many teeth in a rip-
saw depends almost entirely upon the character
of lumber being ripped ; and the feed per revo-
lution should be made dependent upon the
strength of the teeth to resist breaking, and
the capacity of the gullet to hold the cuttings.
In a cross-cut the conditions are different."
To Straighten a Circular Saw. — Get a
hard-wood block 12x12", bed it, on end, 0:1
the ground (not on the floor). Round the top
off with, say J inch rise. Nail up a joist at
ic back of the block, for the saw to rest on ;
et its face be an inch below the top of the
•lock. Do not use an iron anvil.
Use a 3 or 4 Ib. blacksmith's hammer for
aws over 50 inches ; a lighter one for smaller
tid thinner disks.
For large saws the straight edge should be
about T1-6-" thick :— say 20" long, 3^ wide in
enter, 1" at end ; the edge of the straight
iide chamfered or rounded off.
Balance the saw on a mandrel, and apply the
traight edge. Mark the high places with chalk.
Have a helper to hold the saw on the block,
ad hammer on the humps, testing frequently.
68
By this means a saw may bo changed from
right to left handed, or vice verxa.
If the saw is rim-bound, or center-bound, it
should be nailed between two circular boards
each an inch larger than the disk, and sent to
a good saw maker (preferably the one who
made it) to be straightened and given the pro-
per tension for the speed at which it is to be run.
High places may be taken out of straight
saws in the same way.
Choice of a Hand-Saw. — A good hand-
saw should spring regularly in proportion to its
width and gauge ; that is, the point should
spring more than the heel, and the curve hence
not be a perfectly circular arc.
If the blade is too thick for the size of the
teeth, the saw will work stiffly.
If the blade is not well, evenly and smoothly
ground, it will drive hard and tend to spring.
The thinner the gauge and narrower the
blade, the more need for perfectly uniform
and smooth grinding ; and, per contra, the
smoother and more uniform the grinding, the
thinner and narrower a saw you can use.
The cutting edge is very often made on a
convex curve or with a "crown" or "'breast/'
to adapt it to the natural rocking motion of
the hand and arm.
SAW-FILING. 69
By holding the blade in a good light, and
tapping it, you can see if there are imperfec-
tions in grinding or in hammering.
Before buying a saw, test it on about the
same grade of work as it is intended to be put
to.
It is a mistake to suppose that a saw that is
easily filed and set is the best for use. Quite
the reverse is true. A saw that will take a
few more minutes and a little harder work to
sharpen, will keep its edge and set longer
than one that can be put in order quickly ;
and will work better in knots and hard wood.
Comparison of Circular Saw Teeth.—
deferring to the line of cuts showing various
tyles of teeth for circular rip-saws : —
Style 63 cuts a smooth surface, and the duller
smoother, as a rule ; but takes considerably
lore power to do a given amount of work, on
ccount of the friction at the sides. The cor-
ners wearing off, would leave a tooth worn like
39, which, on swaging, would be like 70, re-
{iiiring considerable side-filing. This would
iiuse the sa\\r to wear "stunted" or obtuse,
1 aster than some other styles — notably that
iown at 68, with concave front edge and sides.
Style 0-1, with lono- curving taper, is a modi-
ieat ion of (>;>, and approaches nearer to 68 ; con-
70 SAW-FILING.
sequently would be somewhat better than 63 in
the matter of power, swaging, etc. Both styles
can be produced only as inserted teeth, and are
practicable only in clear, hard wood, and with
plenty of power.
64 65 66 67
Style G5, with straight front edge and very
short curved sides, is the most practicable form
of swaged teeth, and is easily reproduced with
a few blows of the swage, requiring but very
little side-filing to keep a sharp corner, and
giving the best possible side clearance.
Style 66, in which the tooth has both bent
.Hid spread seL takes less power than any other
style, wears ihe ;>lale less, and will shift from
iny kind of timber to another
SAW-FILING.
71
Style 67, in which there is bent set and con-
siderable " shear/7 is practicable only on soft
pine, as second growth pasture pine. Where
the timber grows with the limbs low down, and
is as near one way of grain as another, this
style will cut less fuzz, and consequently take
less power, where the tooth has stock enough
to resist the tendency to spread sideways, or
" make set," as termed by sawyers.
Style 68, with concave front edge and short
side curves, is about like Of) ; their capacity being
about the same, giving 05 the preference.
Style 71, with a "double bevel shear," is
,-! ally impracticable, except in very soft watc*
72 EMEKY WHEELS.
soaked pine, or hemlock. Of course, where
the plate is thick enough to give strength, it
takes less power than a tooth of style
A on the same plate. It is better
fitted for a cut-off saw than for split-
ting. It is used by some sawyers
mostly for hemlock taken from the
pond in summer time.
The double bevel 71 answers for
plain triangular teeth with consid-
erable hook, but for teeth like 73,
(which have the same outline, but
are " rights and lefts,") F. H. Ste-
vens recommends such a bevel as
is shown at 72, in which the bev-
eled sides, as well as the back of the tooth, have
clearance.
Emery Wheel vs. Grindstone. -- The
emery wheel has the advantage over the grind-
stone that it can be made thinner to run with
safety, and can be run at higher speed. The
principal objection urged against it is its heat-
ing the saw. This may be obviated by using a
water-proof wheel and running a stream of wntor
diivcily into the cut. "But ,•'„",, <>f J»H the
emery wheels used for this purpose " (says M r.
EMERY WHEELS. 73
T. Duncan Paret) "are used dry; there being
but one make of wheel in the United States on
which the use of water is recommended." The
same intelligent inventor and manufacturer
writes the author as follows, as to the methods
of running wheels :
How to use Emery Wheels. — " The sim-
plest method by which solid emery wheels can
be applied for saw gumming is by placing them
on the spindle of the circular saw. The saw to
be gummed can then be laid on the saw table,
or supported in any convenient way. A simple
way is to pass the end of a rope with a small
cross stick on it through the eye of the saw,
and thus suspend the saw so that it swings
evenly balanced just in front of the emery
wheel. The weight being thus carried, the
operator only has to use his hands to guide the
saw against the wheel. In the south and south-
west, where expensive machinery is scanty, and
where people are slow to introduce the latest
improvements, there is a steady demand for
saw gumming wheels all the way from 14 to 24
inches in diameter. In the north-west, where
the latest improvements are quickly added, re-
gard less of price, nearly all the emery wheels
used for sa \v-gumming are from 12 inches in
diameter to S inches, none, of the machines spc*
74 EMERY WHEELS.
cially designed for saw gumming being intended
to carry anything above a 12-inch wheel."
Sizes and Shapes of Emery Wheels.—
Saw gumming wheels are used with the edge
(or face) square, round, or beveled.
The principal sizes are :
Holes, 4% 1
and 1 inch.
8xi U in. hole. }{{*? 1 4 in. hole.
8x^ \
}
Probably more wheels 12xf, 12x|, and 12x|
are used, than all the other sizes together. Saw
gumming wheels are used, however, of all sizes
up to 24xH.
While the variety of sizes as well as of shapes
is largely dependent on the variety of saws, it
is also greatly influenced by individual taste
and opinion. The general preference is for bev-
eled Avheels, and probably j- of all sold for sn\v
gumming purposes are this shape.
In this connection the gentleman last quoted
says: " It seems questionable whether this choice
is wise. On page 226, 2d edition ' Grimshaw
on Saws,' it is stated that 'Sawdust packs in
the side of the log and board, sometimes on
account of the shape of the gullet.' Kow
where a hoveled wheel is used, there is too little
EMERY WHEELS.
75
room at the bottom of the gullet to hold any
sawdust, and it is forced between the saw and
the wood. Where a round faced wheel is used,
and a large, full, round gullet left, there is
space for the sawdust to be accumulated and
carried round with the saw till it leaves the log
and drops the dust. I am therefore inclined to
think that round faced wheels are preferable.5'
We show herewith, in actual thickness, the
largest and smallest usual sizes of saw gum-
ming wheels made by the Tanite Co. :
76
EMEHY AY HEELS, ft
Figs. 74 and 75 are regular bevel ; 70 and 77,
half round ; 78, short blunt bevel ; 79, blunt
double bevel ; 80, irregular double bevel ; 81,
double beveled from flange.
Hardness of Emery Wheels. — The Tan-
ite Co. makes five distinct classes for saw gum-
ming ; and can so vary the quality as to suit
all tastes. We give below a brief description of
these classes :
"2." Medium hard ; preferred by J the pur-
chasers ; is a fast cutting wheel, too hard for
some, too soft for others.
"3." Medium soft; same grain as class 2,
but softer and freer cutting.
"Pocono." Extra soft, recommended by its
makers, above the other grades. It is finer
grained and softer than either 2 or 3, and is
particularly recommended to those experienced
practical sawyers "who know how to grind
with a light touch, and who want a free cut-
ting wheel that will not create much heat.7'
"Paradise." Same coarseness as "3," but
rougher, more open, and faster cutting.
" 5 Special." A fine soft wheel only used on
automatic saw gumming machines
78 BRAZING BAND SAWS.
Brazing Band Saws. — The gasoline
blowpipe is the most convenient means of
heating large-size band saws for brazing ;
but an ordinary mouth blow-pipe and oil
lamp with a large wick makes satisfactory
work for light band saws.
Scarf the sides of the broken end on op-
posite sides about half through, and lap
about f to i an inch for small saws. Place
in the lap a thin piece of coin silver, which
flows better and is tougher than brass.
Moisten the surfaces with borax, ground on
a stone with water to a paste. Bind with
small binding wire of iron ; pin to a piece
of flat charcoal with wire clips, and heat
with the broad flame from the blowpipe.
Where convenient, a pair of tongs may be
heated to a white heat and gripped upon
the splice. Then carefully file the overlap-
ping parts to an even thickness.
For very heavy saws, a resort to riveting
is often made to hold the scarfs together
firmly. For good work, the solder should
be thin and placed in the scarf with enough
to overlap so as to fill the scarf when melted.
SPEED OK CIRCULAR SAWS. 79
Speed of Circular Saws. — The speed of
saws is very essential to the production of
good lumber. There is a standard. A good
sawyer will retain his speed — not a given
standard, but as to the condition of the saw's
tension. The log takes the saw above or
below the speed it is destined to run at,
which is attended invariably by bad sawing.
New saws should be kept up to speed by
all means, or the saw will eventually dish
permanently and have to be rehammered.
A saw not up to its speed invariably runs
from the log dishing. This will eventually
Dermanently dish the saw. A sawmaker,
dien taking the order for the saw, is given
speed about so and so, and he, knowing
:>ut little better, takes it down. Now, this
is known to vary 200 revolutions. The saw
3eing hammered too open is condemned as
lefective ; it won't run because it won't
stand up to its work. . If the sawyer had
jcod judgment, he would be very particular
about correct speed. A good sawyer will
try to maintain the speed to suit the saw's
condition or hammer it.
80 SPEED OF CIRCULAR SAWS.
The greatest trouble is in too high speed.
This brings about, first, bad lumber, second,
a spoiled saw, as there is nothing that ruins
a saw quicker than heat on the rim and run-
ning it winding across the log. A great
many adhere to the stiffness of the saw,
wanting a stiff saw. This is all right if
some consideration is taken. If a saw is a
heavy gauge, 48 to 54 inches, running at a
slow speed, a stiff saw is all right. Such a
man will contend for a stiff saw on any
mill, judging from experience, but this is
limited.
Centrifugal force is a natural strain that
a high speed is exposed to, and no high-
speeded saw will stand one-half the abuse
that a moderate-speed saw will. One thing :
it will cut just two or three times as much
lumber. The higher the speed, the more
and better lumber is made. If everything
in connection with the saw is in perfect
condition, and capable of standing it, 11,000
feet, or two miles, per minute on the rim is
fast enough for most any of our mills. We
sometimes find them running over 12,000 —
;
SPEED OF CIRCULAR SAWS. 81
10,000 is suitable for the average mill ; and
if saw is ordered hammered to that speed,
the sawyer should see that it runs very
nearly to it.
All saws should be as stiff at their speed
as the metal will allow. If properly ad-
justed, any saw can be made so. Saws run-
ning at a high speed are liable to crack
or check, if not hammered right, which
few men thoroughly understand. Many
sawmakers overlook this, and where there
is complaint of cracked saw, too often the
.wmaker attributes it to fire cracks, bad
umming, and the like, when nine times
out of ten it is in the tension.
Swing cut-off saws should not run over
10,000 feet per minute, owing to their be-
ing liable to fracture from being jammed or
finished so often. A mill may be speeded
up as it should and the saw not run well.
This is when the saw needs hammering.
If the sawyer can't do it, and has not the
tools, he should send it to where it can be
done. Too much time is often lost work-
ing with a saw needing hammering, to say
82 SPEED OF CIRCULAR
nothing of the lumber spoiled. Some saws
have to be hammered very often, owing to
the manner in which they are tensioned.
A thick saw will stand a higher speed
than a thin one ; but a rim velocity of ior
000 feet per minute is as fast as a saw ever
ought to run. A taper saw will stand a
higher speed than an even gauge, for the
reason that the rim is lighter, and the ex-
pansion from centrifugal force will be less.
If a saw heats in the center, give it more
set ; if it heats on the rim, either the backs
of the teeth are too high, or the saw is cut-
ting with too much feed, and it chokes.
THE USUAL SPEEDS FOR CIRCULAR SAWS
IN REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE.
12 inch, 3,000 30 inch, 1,200 58 inch, 625
16 inch, .->,222 34 inch, 1,058 60 inch, 600
1 8 inch, 2,000 38 inch, 950 62 inch, 575
20 inch, i, 800 42 inch, 870 64 inch, 550
22 inch, 1,636 46 inch, 800 66 inch, 545
24 inch, 1,500 50 inch, 725 68 inch, 529
26 inch, 1,384 54 inch, 675 70 inch, 540
28 inch, 1,285 56 inch, 650 72 inch, 500
and in proportion for intermediate sizes.
A 56-inch saw of first-class make and set,
TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SA\VS. 83
running at 625 revolutions per minute, has
cut 116 feet of poplar and pine boards per
minute, and from 90 to 100 feet of oak per
minute — using about 100 horse power.
It is estimated that in small mills, say of
10 horse power, a single saw will cut 4,000
feet of boards in 10 hours. In larger mills
i,ooofeet per horse power per day is not an
uncommon product.
How to Hammer Circular Saws.— An
old sawyer gives the following advice on
the care of saws :
The saw being the life of your mill, keep
it in good condition. The chief element of
lis is in hammering and keeping the saw
straight and true. The former we will
term tension, which applies to keeping the
iw open to accommodate the centrifugal
force applied by its speed. The latter,
straightening, applies to keeping the plate
lie and free from lumps. Saw hammering
a peculiar art, and accomplished by but
ew to any degree of perfection, simply
from the many fogy ideas advanced by men,
some of whom boast of their twenty years'
84 TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS.
experience. I have stood for ten years at
the lever, watching closely every so-called
peculiarity of the saw.
The first thing is to straighten your saw.
This is done on a wooden, firm, end-grain
block or leather-padded anvil. All mill
saws dish more or less from the log, and are
full on that side. It is necessary to lean
the saw until the center sags so that it will
appear as straight as possible, then with a
2o-inch straight-edge mark all the full
places, watching closely just outside of the
collar. Near the rim apply the straight-
edge at right angles in several positions ; it
is best to use, say, a 1 2-inch straight-edge
on the rim, as you can get closer to the
teeth. Mark your saw with chalk or hard
soap, on the rim, when you find places to
show straight one way, but high the other
way ; make a long mark directly in line
with the straightest way. This indicates
a twist, and will in all cases on the rim ex-
tend toward the center of the saw. When
the 2oinch straight-edge is applied on the
radius (from center to rim), such a place
TO IIAMMKK CIRCULAR SAWS. 85
will not show, but take the 1 2-inch and ap-
ply across this line, and yon will find it to
be high. If there is a twist, it will be
higher on the extreme edge. The straight
pene hammer must be used on such places,
the straightway of the hammer directly on
the straightest way of the saw, which is to-
ward the center. As the extreme edge is
the highest, nearly all the blows must be
applied there, care being taken not to go
too far in. A twist showing six inches is
often removed by. hammering only on the
rim. Twisted places are sometimes found
at the center when the saw is dished.
Having laid off the saw, go to the block
and strike one blow on every mark with the
round face of the hammer, using the long
face on the long marks. The first opera-
tion may dish the saw in the other way,
which, if not too much, shows good work.
Don't rub out your marks, and when the
other side is laid off, notice if any of the
marks correspond ; if so, too heavy a blow
was applied ; in this way the heft of blows
can be determined. Work on both sides of
86 TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS.
the saw, getting the rim as true as possible
and leave it leaning a trifle to the log. This
constitutes a straightening. If your saw's
tension is nearly right it will now run much
better, but this is not always the case. I
will add here that before attempting to
straighten a saw as described, a careful in-
spection must be made. All saws get long
or loose on the rim by use, and it is a com-
mon thing among small mills to find saws
so loose on the rim as to form a twist or
winding position ; if not quite so loose, it
will not be winding, but may appear nearly
straight with the rim very flimsy, while
the center will be as stiff as a board. In
short, all such saws are stiff in the center
and will not give, and must be tensioned
before straightening.
This tensioning is done by stretching the
saw nearer the center on an anvil with firm
blows, regardless of the lumps in the saw.
First, strike a circle line one-half way the
radius, then t\vo lines two inches apart be-
low this, and one above, four lines in all.
Hammer the two center lines first on both
TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS. 87
sides of the saw, but if it is very loose on
the rim, it will often require four to six
lines ; in such cases the lines can be closer
together. Never go nearer the rim than
one-third the radius, and not much closer
to the center. Keep this in view. The
one-half way part of the saw must be the
more open. A saw open too near the cen-
ter will not run at all in many cases. After
giving your saw some tension, nine times
out of ten your twisted saw, to your sur-
prise, will show up straight. Sometimes a
saw gets twisted through accident ; such
saws will show the center a little loose, and
when they do, take the twisted saw to the
block with a long pene, as stated. High-
speeded saws require to be more open in the
center, many of them dishing through with
a snap. A saw too open will heat in the
center and crowd from the log, while a saw
too loose on the rim will snake and assume
a complete wind or twist when a little hot
on the rim. In such cases the center has
to run hot in order to get anything like
work out of the saw. A saw too open in
88 TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS.
the center is stiffened by hammering the
rim, not nearer than two inches of the
teeth ; very little work on the rim will
change a saw. When the saw has abont the
right spring, straighten it up on the block ;
then a trial will determine its tension. If
the saw will not screw up true, the collar
should be turned. If a saw is to remain on
the mandrel, it may be papered if the col-
lars dish it.
It is very essential that unequal tension
be corrected in a saw that runs at a high or
even moderate speed. Not one man in
fifty knows anything about this, to say
nothing of how to remove it.
Unequal tension is this : One part of the
saw being tighter or more open than the
other. I could write a volume on this
important part of the saw's life. Now,
to remove it, and in the simplest way,
screw the saw up on the mandrel, take
hold of the tail of the saw with the
right hand (if it is a right-hand mill)
and spring the saw all you can to you,
and at the same time apply the long
TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS. 89
straight-edge and notice closely the open-
ing. Apply the straight-edge say every
six inches, moving the saw and noticing
the variation in light. You will find some
places spring more, while others remain
nearly to the straight-edge ; mark these
places plainly. Now go on the outside of
the saw, having everything free, so you can
spring the saw, except the guide pins, which
must be close to the saw. On this side
mark the variations as before. If your saw
has a loose place, you will find that it stood
off more on both sides at that place. A
tight place will stand off less and alike on
h sides. In simpler words, loose places
ippear as though the plate was very thin,
while tight places appear . thick because
they stand closer to the straight-edge on
both sides of the saw, loose places the far-
thest away. An open place on one side
which shows high on the other indicates a
lump ; such a saw is not true, and must be
taken to the block and trued up.
To remove loose places, hammer near the
rim opposite such a place. Tight places are
90 TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS.
stretched right where they show it. For
practical purposes, the saw should show
very nearly the same spring all around.
Always test both sides, and when even a
slight variation is found it should be re-
moved ; then, if the saw is too open or too
stiff, treat the center or rim a little on the
anvil.
The fogy method is to always hammer a
saw on the anvil, striking it as heavily as
possible. When a saw requires a little
straightening, it is mostly on the rim (the
outlet of the saw) ; if this is done on the
anvil, what is the result? Lumps partly
beaten down, with all the tension gone ;
then the hammerer goes to the center to
overcome just what he ought not to have
done. A few blows on the block, and the
saw would have retained its tension — been
in better shape with ten times less work.
No man can remove a twist in this way,
directly on the rim. I have noticed over
fifty such men, and they never get right up
to the rim of a saw. Why? Because- it
\yill curl up, every time, on the anvil,
TO HAMMER CIRCULAR SAWS. 91
Test this with a piece of sheet iron and
be convinced. The tinner, iron and copper-
smith are sensible men ; they have their
copper or mallet hammer and a smooth
block to straighten their work on. Why ?
Because only a blow or two on an anvil
would stretch it into a wind, and then they
are done. The saw is precisely the same
way, and it remains only a question of time
that the saw will be unequally tensioned,
and then it is done. A man that knows
anything about tension in a saw will take
care of that vital part. Take a dished saw
that requires only a few light blows near
the collar, on the block. What does the
fogy do? Stretch the rim, " pulling the
dish " out, and a lot of other foolish things.
A saw too open requires the rim stretched,
but never a dished saw. Another idea is to
hammer in lines from the center to the rim,
only to result in tight and loose lines and to
buckle the saw. A man of gumption ought
to know better than this, and this is the
cause of many fractured saws. Others'
theories are, that when a saw is sprung it
92 HORSE POWER.
must be sprung more to get the lump back.
My idea is, if it is sprung it ought not to
be, and should be gotten back without addi-
tional stretching, namely : the block.
Small saws are treated precisely as large
ones, but much more mildly. An expert,
changing from a thick saw to a thin one,
invariably will strike too heavily ; great
care must be exercised. They require but
little tensioning, and should be stiff. Blue
spots are treated on the block, and when
they come back the rim should be stretched
opposite such a place. Their appearance
continually indicates a loose place.
Horse Power Required to Run Circu-
lar Saws.— The horse power required to
drive circular saws doing no work, accord-
ing to experiments, is represented by the
formula : Power = in which n is
32,000
the number of revolutions per minute and
d the diameter of the saw in inches, to
which the net power for cutting should be
added, which is - - for soft wood and .
12 6
HORSE POWER. 93
for hard wood. A — square feet of surface
of lumber cut per foot in length ; C= thick-
ness of kerf or cut in decimals of an inch.
For example, a 56-inch saw running free
at 650 revolutions per minute requires a
. 650 x 56
speed power or ==1.14 horse power ;
32,000
and to cut pine logs that will make an aver-
age of 10 boards of 12 inches in width, the
area of surface for 1 3 cuts, including edging,
in the log for each foot in length = 13
square feet ; and if the saw cuts a kerf
.2 of an inch wide, then for 30^,000 feet
er day of 10 hours the amount will be
A C
feet per minute. By the formula -
12
for pine and white wood, 13 x 2 = 26 square
feet of board surface per foot in length and
>X.2
= .43 x 50 = 21.5 horse power, and
for hard wood - = .86 x 50 = 43 horse
Dower ; to each of which should be added
.14 horse power for the saw alone and
enough for running intermediate shafting
;ino belting.
94 CARE OF HAND SAWS.
Filing and Setting Hand Saws; Jointing;
Saw Clamps; Saw Sets; Files and Vises;
Keyhole and Compass Saws; Butchers' and
Meat Saws. — Modern tools and machinery
have made the various operations of filing,
setting and polishing hand and other saws
much simpler than a few years ago, and
nowadays any amateur can, with a little
practice, set, file, gum or straighten any
ordinary saw as well as an expert.
While saws are far cheaper than formerly
it still pays to care for a saw properly and
to have the right kind of tools and files for
keeping even the cheapest saws in good con-
dition.
Broken, warped, bent or very rusty saws
are scarcely worth bothering with, unless
you are far from any store where a new saw
can be purchased or have to use the old one
on hand in case of emergency. Very fair
hand saws may be bought for 75 cents to
$1.50 each, and at such prices the time re-
quired to put an old, badly-used saw in good
shape is worth more than a new one.
Kvery one who uses saws of any kind
should, however, have an up-to-date saw-
clamp similar to that illustrated in Fig. 82.
SAW CLAMPS.
95
This clamp should be bolted or screwed to
a piece of wood which may then be clamped
in a vise or bored with holes and fitted with
bolts by which it can be readily attached to
a post, beam or bench. Of course where
Fig. 82. — Saw Vise or Clamp.
are used considerably and frequent set-
ig or tiling is necessary, the clamp may be
stened permanently to some convenient
ench or other object.
In using the clamp care should be taken
96 SAW SKTS.
(lint the ed^es of the jiiws are perfectly
smooth and even. Many well made clamps
:in<l oilier tools are often varnished, jap
mined or enamelled and drops of these ma-
terials often collect and harden on the faces
of the jaws, thus tending to an insecure and
iMiceriain ^rrip and liability of bending or
straining the saw blade. To avoid this and
prevent vibration and squeaking the better
saw vises are provided with rubber cush-
ioned jaws.
In setting saws the best tools to use are
the hand sets shown in Fijj. S:»,. l*>y means
of the screw adjustment .1, these tools may-
be changed to set any ordinary saw from
heavy crosscut or buck-saws to tine toothed
panel or mitre saws, and when used care
fully will produce a very uniform and regu-
lar set on any saw. They are very simple
to use for the saw is merely inserted in the
clamp, the set adjusted to the best pitch and
slipped over (he saw edi^e and (he handles
of the set pressed firmly together when the
tooth to be set is exactly underneath the
plunder. If familiar with setting saws for
various purposes (he user will be able to
jud^e tl:e amount of set required, but if a
SETTING SAWS.
97
novice it is best to place the set over one of
the teeth close to the handle of the saw —
where they are usually but slightly worn,
and retain the original set — and then ad-
just the tool by these teeth.
Frequently a hand saw that has been used
Fig. 83.— Saw S.
for some time and has been reset or filed
will show a concave or hollow edge instead
of a slight crown. While a saw thus worn
will work fairly well if kept set and filed
yet a great deal of time and trouble can be
saved by grinding or filing down the edge
until restored to its original straight or
crowned shape. To do this the saw should be
clamped between two strips of steel in the
98 JOINTING HAND SAWS.
saw clamp as shown in Fig. 84, and the pro-
jecting edges filed or ground away. The
strips of steel, which should be perfectly
true on the edges or with a slight crown,
should then be moved down on the saw until
the upper edges are exactly in line with the
lower edges of the lowest gullets on the saw.
With the three-cornered saw file go over
each tooth and file it in to the edge of the
Fig. 84. — Saw Ready for "Jointing."
steel strip, and when all are thus treated
set and file the saw as usual.
This operation is known as "jointing,"
and is of great importance if a saw is to be
kept in first-class condition. While it is
easily done by using a file as described, yet
it can also be accomplished by using a ready-
made "jointer clamp" or a carborundum or
emery wheel in place of the file.
It is next to impossible to set a saw by
any hand method so that all the teeth arc
exactly even, and for truing these teeth up
and thus producing an even running and
SIDE FILING.
99
clean cutting saw a side file should be used.
This consists of a flat file and holder as
shown in Fig. 85, which can be adjusted by
set screws to fit any width of set.
In filing a saw considerable practice is
Fig. 85.— Side File and Clamp.
required, but otherwise no great skill is
essential. There are, however, a few im-
portant points to bear in inind. Always
hold your file nearly level; file a few teeth
and then turn the saw over and file the alter-
nate teeth on the opposite side to see if they
shape up evenly. If they appear all right
you can then turn the saw back so the
100 FILING HAND SAWS.
handle comes at your left hand and file all
the teeth on that side. This is the hardest
side of the saw to file properly, and after
this side is done you can turn the saw
around with handle to your right and file
this side. If you attempt to file this side
first you would be almost certain to cut the
teeth too deep, and if you continually turn
the saw first on one side and then t'he other
you will get the teeth uneven. A common
trouble is in getting large teeth one side
and small ones the other. This causes the
saw to turn or "lead" to one side in use.
This unevenness is due to changing the posi-
tion of the file or hand or to turning the
saw from side to side while you work.
When a tooth comes to a point? filing
should be stopped, even if the shape is not
perfect, for it is better to let the shape go
rather than cut down more of the tooth and
get it out of line. Where an old saw has
teeth of varying sizes from improper filing,
you will have to file it twice to remedy it.
The larger teeth will be the longest, so they
should be filed or "jointed" down until all
are even and then the saw should be filed
with the file held at an angle of 45 degrees
FILING HAND SAWS. 101
and nearly level, with the file tipped in such
a way that the corner strikes the bottom of
each tooth first. Pay no attention to the
small teeth, but note the large teeth and
keep the file bearing against the face of
the tooth you are working on. This will re-
sult in keeping away from the small teeth
and cutting down the large ones. If the
hook or "rake" of the teeth is poor it should
be increased by filing the face of each tooth,
using the file so that it cuts into the base or
"gullet" of the tooth first. While filing the
back of the teeth makes an apparent increase
dn the hook, yet in reality it does not do so.
To maintain a saw in good shape you
must vary the position of your file each
time it is used. If you follow the same angle
and level each time poor results will follow
and instead you should keep cutting away
under the base of the teeth, taking a long
bevel each time the saw is filed. A saw for
hard wood requires less bevel than for soft,
but for ordinary purposes the bevel should
be maintained that will work most easily
on either hard, soft, or medium woods.
Hand saws, especially panel and mitre
saws, are very apt to bend, warp or buckle.
102 STRAIGHTENING SAWS.
The slightest bend will make a saw drive
hard and saw crookedly, and any such devia-
tion from a true surface should be remedied
at once for it will rapidly increase and soon
become too bad to overcome. Any slight
crook or bend may be removed by placing
the saw upon a slightly rounded block of
hard wood and striking the saw a smart
blow with a medium weight hammer. Great
care should be used not to strike too hard
or in a glancing direction, and much bet-
ter results may be accomplished by repeated
light blows than by single heavy blows.
There are several good methods of ascertain-
ing the spots to be straightened and a good
method is as follows : The saw blade should
be laid upon a perfectly flat surface and
rubbed over with Prussian blue tube oil
color spread evenly over it. A smooth, per-
fectly true piece of iron or steel is then
drawn along the blade, and the high or
warped spots will readily show by the blue
rubbing oil', while hollow or indented spots
will remain coated with the paint. Another
method is to place the saw on a smooth
even surface — a piece of heavy plate glass
is the best — and run a straight edge over
STRAIGHTENING SAWS. 103
it, marking the bent or warped spots with
chalk. If a hand saw is bent and refuses
to straighten by hammering it may often be
straightened by a slight application of heat.
This is best accomplished by rubbing a red
or white hot piece of iron over the surface
of the concave side of the bend. If the oppo-
site side of the saw is resting on a cold or
wet surface — such as a wet cloth spread flat
—the heat on one side will cause the iron
to expand and straighten the bend in most
cases. If the saw buckles back after cool-
ing it should be treated again, and while
still warm and straight, a few blows with
a hammer should be given the surface where
the bend occurs. This will still further ex-
pand the metal and will straighten the
blade. Great care should be taken not to
heat the saw enough to injure the temper
and the hot iron should be merely passed
over the surface of the blade and not held
against it for any length of time.
Keyhole and compass saws are usually
rather soft and easily bent, and can only
be kept straight by careful use and frequent
straightening by heat or hammering.
Butcher's and meat saws are seldom trou-
104 BUTCHER'S SAWS.
blesome by crookedness or warping as they
are set taut in frames and are quite flex-
ible. Many of these saws are injured or
ruined by repeated setting and filing by in-
competent itinerant tinkers and scissors
grinders with no practical knowledge of
saws or their requirements and practically
any butcher's saw will show a decided hol-
low or concave edge after a few filings. The
tendency to acquire this concavity is greater
in narrow saws of this sort than in hand
saws with a wide blade for the continual up-
ward pressure against the blade, held be-
tween the two ends of the frame, will in time
bend the blade edgewise. It is a very hard
matter to straighten a meat saw edgewise
after it has become badly concaved on the
edge, but this trouble may be readily avoid-
ed by filing the slightly worn or sharp teeth
at each end as well as the dull or worn teeth
each time the saw is set and filed. Ky using
a straight edge in the vise when filing, the
teeth at 1he ends may be always kept filed
down to Hie same height as those in the
center, and if this small matter is looked
after crcri/ lime 1he sa\v is tiled the saws
will invariably work better and last longer.
METAL-WORKING SAWS. 105
Metal Working Saws; Hack Saws and
Band Saws; Lubricating Saws; Sharpening
Hack Saws; Using Broken Hack Saw Blades;
Mending and Brazing Band Saws; Stopping
Cracks from Spreading; Adjustable Adapters
for Saw Blades; Files for Saws; Filing Band
Saws.— Probably no class of saws are sub-
jected to such hard usage and wear as the
various metal-working saws now in uni-
versal use. Circular saws, band saws, scroll
saws and hack saws are all used in cutting
metals of various kinds and practically
every brass foundry uses band saws for re-
moving fins and projecting pieces of metal
from their castings. Such castings being of
various sizes, shapes and thickness as well
as of various degrees of hardness demand
the utmost limit of service and endurance
from the saws, and as a result the saws are
often in very bad shape and break long be-
fore their condition is apparent and proper
attention is given them. Short, stout, blunt
teeth with a comparatively slight. ofl'set: and
straight edges give the best service for this
class of work, and wherever possible the
saws should be selected that will give the
106 LUBRICATING SAWS.
best general results. A considerable por-
tion of the trouble with metal-working saws
is due to the heating of the saw by its fric-
tion with the material being cut, and this is
especially true of saws used in trimming
castings, as such objects jump and wobble
considerably on the saw table and thus bind
the saw unevenly. If a thick oil is allowed
to drip on the saw while in use or tallow or
some similar lubricant is placed in a spring-
actuated receptacle which presses it against
the moving blade, the life of metal working
saws will be greatly increased. Perhaps no
substance has greater power to lubricate
and facilitate cutting than spirits of turpen-
tine. This will enable an ordinary hack saw
to cut glass readily, and while it will burn
and smoke if used on a saw that runs very
hot, it may be combined with tallow or
grease to produce both a lubricant and an
aid to easy cutting. When using any such
material, however, care should be taken that
the cool lubricant is applied to both sur-
faces of the blade equally as otherwise the
saw will bend, warp or buckle worse than
a dry saw.
Hack saws, whether hand or machine, are
RESETTING HACK SAWS. 107
seldom worth resetting or sharpening as the
blades are very cheap and are rapidly worn
out. While it is impracticable to reset or
file a small hack saw by hand yet blades
that are dulled or clogged may be greatly
improved by a bath
in dilute sulphuric
and muriatic acid.
This eats away a
small quantity of
metal leaving a Fi&- 86- — Saw Teetn as Seen
dl> J [1 b Under a Microscope.
sharp " saw - tooth "
edge, which appears as in Fig. 8G when seen
under a microscope.
As soon as the saw is sufficiently cut by
this method it should be immersed in a
strong solution of soda or other alkali and
then wiped dry, warmed and thoroughly
oiled or greased. Files which have appar-
ently become utterly useless may be recut
and made as good as new by this same proc-
ess for the bits of wood, dirt, soft metals,
etc., in the various cuts are dissolved or
eaten out by the acid while the edges of the
ridges are thinned down and sharpened at
the same time.
Broken hack saws should be cast aside as
108 REPAIRING HACK SAWS.
a rule, but if inconvenient or impossible to
secure a new one the broken blade may be
shortened and a new hole bored for the
frame holder by softening the broken end by
heat and cutting the rough edge off with
either a cold chisel or file and drilling a new
hole or holes with an ordinary twist drill.
If the saw — beyond the point to be softened
— is wrapped in wet cloth or is inserted be-
tween larger pieces of cold metal/ the saw
may be heated red hot at the spot desired
without injuring the temper elsewhere.
Sometimes a broken blade will be too short
to fit even an adjustable frame and under
such circumstances two broken saws may be
joined together by rivets or screws until
the desired length is obtained. Of course
tli is is merely a makeshift repair, but it will
often prove of great value and convenience
in time of emergency.
Permanent repairs on broken band saws
or hack saws may be made by brazing or by
autogenous welding by oxo-acetylene meth-
ods, and while it is always advisable to have
a broken saw bra/ed or welded by a special-
ist in this work yet band saws, large scroll
BRAZING BAND SAWS. 109
saws, etc., can be brazed by any one with
practice and proper tools.
To braze a band saw the lap of the ends
should be as short as possible and never
more than one tooth. File the bevel so teeth
will match at the lap and place enough sil-
ver solder (which comes in ribbon form) to
cover the joint, place the saw in a brazing
clamp so that the joint or lap comes in the
middle of the clamp opening, place the
solder in the lap, sprinkle it with borax or
some brazing flux and heat a pair of flat
tongs white hot and clasp them firmly on
the saw at the joint. By pressing the hot
tongs together with another pair of tongs on
the points of the hot jaws a greater pressure
and better job will be accomplished. Hold
the brazing tongs perfectly tight until they
cool and turn black and then remove them,
file the joint perfectly smooth and clean the
solder out of the teeth. The materials re-
quired are merely the solder that costs $1
per ounce, the clamps that cost 25 cents, and
the tongs. The tongs should be carefully
heated, for if too hot and sparkling a poor
joint will result, while if too cool the solder
will not fuse perfectly. Great care should
110 CRACKS IN SAWS.
also be taken to let the tongs, clamps and
saw cool slowly, as water sprinkled upon
them to hasten cooling will ruin the result-
ing joint. Although this all sounds very
simple, yet you will require considerable
practice before a good brazed joint can be
made, and it is best to practice on old use-
less broken saws until proficient.
Many times a saw, especially circular
saws and large hand saws, will show a small
crack near or at the edge. These cracks
will rapidly increase in size and will either
ruin the saw completely or will result in
a piece of metal breaking off and flying into
the air, frequently with serious injuries as
a result. Such cracks may be remedied and
prevented from spreading by boring a small
hole at the inward limit of the crack, Fig.
87. It is a very easy matter to drill such
a hole either by hand drill or drill press if
the surface is treated with a mixture of
camphor and turpentine and the drill is wet
with the same liquid. If the crack extends
out to the gullet of the teeth the outer edge
should be filed out to an even, rounded
shape, Fig. 88, in order to prevent its catch-
ing and chipping.
ADAPTERS FOR HACK SAWS.
Ill
The universal use of hand hack saws has
led to a fairly standard length of saws and
Fig. 87.— Stopping Crack
from Spreading.
Fig. 88. — End of Crack
Smoothed.
holders or frames, and the latter are now
generally made adjustable to a considerable
extent so that any slight variation in the
Fig. 89.— Adapter for Various Sizes of Hack-Saw Blades.
length of blades may be taken up. In very
few frames, however, is there more than a
slight adjustment possible and where only
one holder is available and various sized
blades are used, a simple method of adapt-
112
FILES FOR SAWS.
ing the blades to the frames may be ar-
ranged as shown in Fig. S!). In this cut,
A A indicate the ends of the frames where
the saw is held by pegs or pins passing
through holes in the saw B B. By making
an iron or steel extension with holes at vari-
ous distances as at C, saws of any length
may be used in the frame as shown at D D.
The choice of a file for saw sharpening is
almost as important as the selection of a
Fig. 90. — Angular Gullets. Fig. 90a. — Round Gullets.
saw itself. Ordinary three-cornered and Hat
files will answer and thousands of saws are
annually filed and filed well with a three-
Fig. 91.— Round-Edged File.
cornered file, but unless care is taken the
three-cornered file will often cut into the
back of the next tooth to the one being iiled,
making the gullet very sharp or angular,
Fig. 90. A better form of file is shown
in Fig. 91, while several forms of files espe
SPECIAL SAW FILES.
113
dally designed for saw work are shown in
Fig. 92.
Fig. 92.— Forms of Saw Files.
In filing band saws the special band-saw
file, Fig. 93, should be used, and for the
Fig. 93.— Band Saw File.
various sized teeth the files should be of sev-
eral sizes. These files are three-sided with
round corners as shown, and by their shape
the gullet of the saw is rounded, Fig. 9(M,
114 RAKE FOR BAND SAW TEETH.
instead of sharp or angular as mentioned
above. The round gullet gives a far better
cutting saAv and renders the latter less
liable to breakage.
The teeth of the band saw should be filed
straight across instead of at an angle, thus
giving a more or less chisel-like point, but a
rake should be left similar to the pitch of
a plane iron, Fig. 94, which will allow the
saw teeth to shave
or plane off the
material sawed.
Without a good
rake or pitch the Fig' 94-Rake of Teeth'
teeth merely scrape or scratch out the ma-
terial with a result that slower work is done,
requiring far more power and greater strain
on the saAv.
Much breakage of saws can be avoided,
especially in metal sawing, if two saw
guides are provided, one being above the
table with an adjustment for various thick-
nesses of material and the other beneath the
table merely to steady and guide the saw.
Roth of these guides should be provided with
an adjustment which will accommodate
various widths of saws and the back of the
GUIDES FOR BAND SAWS. 115
saw should always run against the guide at
all times, thus providing a firm bearing and
taking all edge strain from the blade save
for the comparatively short distance be-
tween guides. The teeth of the saw should
however always run beyond the edge of the
guide, for if the teeth run in the guide-slot
the points or set of the teeth will either
wear away or the guide will be cut. In the
former case the teeth soon become pin-point-
ed and will not cut, while in the latter case
there will be too much play in the guides
and the saw will buckle and break.
Polishing, Cleaning and Grinding Saws; Car-
borundum and Carborundum Wheels; Home
Made Saw Clamps and Saw Sets; How to
Fold Band Saws; Tables of Gages; Sizes and
Number of Teeth of Various Kinds of Saws. —
One of the most common troubles with saws
is the great difficulty in keeping them
smooth and polished and free from rust
which not only prevents their proper action,
but makes them very hard to drive with
consequent heating and warping.
Under ordinary conditions a saw may be
readily kept smooth and bright by wiping
116 POLISHING SAWS.
and oiling after use, but where used around
salt water ordinary oil will not prevent rust
from forming. The best material in the
world for use on saws or other tools to pre-
vent rust is cocoanut oil. A piece of smooth
iron or steel well coated with this lubricant
may be immersed in salt water for several
hours and allowed to dry without wiping
and will not rust to any extent. In warm
weather the oil, which is normally a tallow-
like substance, becomes liquid, and in order
to use it under such conditions it is advis-
able to melt it up with its own weight of
hard paraffine or tallow, which will prevent
it from becoming too soft to remain on the
surface of the saw or other tool.
Saws that have become rough, rusty or
pitted may be polished by rubbing with
emery paper, oil and emery, powdered car-
borundum or similar abrasive compounds
and finishing with powdered pumice, tripoli,
rotten stone, or rouge.
When polishing a saw it should be laid
g 95. — Protecting Teeth While Polishing.
upon a perfectly fiat surface with the
POLISHING SAWS. 117
protected by setting them into a grooved
strip of wood, Fig. 95. Emery cloth will
answer very well for cleaning, but powdered
emery or carborundum with lard oil or
uThree-in-One" oil is better, while one of
the various <k Vale-grinding Compounds,"
prepared in collapsible tubes for automobile
use is the best material of all. When every
part of the blade is thoroughly cleaned and
bright the emery or other abrasive should be
wiped entirely off and a smooth poll si KM!
surface imparted by rubbing with powdered
pumice and oil, followed by fine rouge,
tripoli or rotten stone and oil.
Never use any of the various prepared
metal polishes as they invariably contain
strong acids or alkalis which will ruin and
pit the surface of the metal. When polish-
ing with emery or carborundum the material
should be used by spreading on a smooth
flat block or piece of wood covered with a
soft cloth or chamois to insure an even sur-
iace and the movement in polishing should
be in a more or less rotating or circular
direction covering the entire surface of the
blade and not rubbing in one spot at a time
as otherwise an uneven surface is sure to result.
118 CARBORUNDUM.
The common emery wheels formerly used
for gumming or grinding saws have now
been almost entirely superceded by carbor-
undum. This material, which is a product
of the electrical furnace and was acciden-
tally discovered in an attempt to produce
artificial diamonds or other precious stones,
is next in hardness to the diamond, and is
also very cheap. In its original form, as
taken from the furnace, it is a mass of beau-
tiful crystals of magnificent prismatic col-
ors, but when broken, crushed and ground
it appears as a dull, brownish material. It
is sold in the form of powders of various
degrees of coarseness, and in the shape of
whetstones, grinding wheels, etc.
For saw work this material is especially
well adapted for it cuts rapidly and smooth-
ly and can be had in any degree of fineness.
AVlien an emery wheel arbor or grinding
stand is not at hand a carborundum wheel
may be operated by placing it on a circular
saw mandril, while excellent results may
also be obtained by rigging up an old scroll
saw, lathe or sewing machine to operate
carborundum wheels. On large saws, espe-
cially circular saws, carborundum wheels
HOME-MADE CLAMPS AND SETS.
119
will be found of great value, and many of the
modern gumming machines are equipped
with these w^heels.
It is often a great convenience to have
saw vises or clamps and saw sets when
ready made ones cannot be procured. Such
things are easily made from either wood or
metal, and there is no reason for anyone
going without such appliances. A service-
able saw vise can be made by merely clamp-
ing the saw between two strips of hard wood
or metal held in an ordinary bench vise,
Fig. 90, while pieces of soft brass or zinc
placed over the ordinary vise jaws will
answer all purposes at a pinch.
Home made saw-sets can be devised by
Fig. 96.— Wooden Saw
Clamp.
Fig. 07. — Saw Set
from Pliers.
cutting a notch in one side of a pair of
pliers and inserting a small tooth in the
120
COILING BAND SAWS.
opposite jaw, Fig. 97, but a punch and die
made from a bit of metal and a cold chisel
will also do good work, Fig. 98. Still an-
other set may be made by cutting — two slits
in an old screw driver, chisel or similar
tool and bending them as shown in Fig. 99.
This tool should be placed over the tooth to
be set and then brought back and down-
ward as shown until the prongs A A bear
against the saw.
Many users of band saws have been puz-
zled to determine
just how the saws
are folded or coiled
for shipment, and
no matter how
carefully the saw
may be unpacked
or unrolled it is
very difficult to dis-
cover how to roll it
again. When once
the secret is known
it is. however, a
very simple matter
to roll or fold a
.-saw set from screwdriver, hand saw properly.
Fig. 98.— Saw Set from Block
and Chisel.
COILING BAND SAWS.
121
In Fig, 100 a band saw is illustrated coiled or
folded properly, but it will be noted that
while it rests on the floor in three coils the
three loops do not lie flat and in one plane
as would be the case with a broken saw. In
Fig. 101 the first operation of folding is
pig< 100.— Band Saw Coiled.
Fig. 101.— Coiling Band-Saw.
shown. Grasp the saw by the two hands
with the toothed edge from you and twist
the smooth edge or back away from you and
downward as shown by the arrow A. While
doing this allow the lower free part of the
122
COILING BAND SAWS.
Fig. 102.— Coiling Band-Saw.
Fig. 103.— Coiling Band-Saw.
Fig. 101. —roiling Baml-Saw,
COILING BAND SAWS. 123
saw to be clear of any obstruction, and as
you twist you will find that the saw tends to
spring into two loops or circles as shown
in Fig. 102. As soon as the saw gets into
the position shown in Fig. 103 it should be
S
Fig. 105. — Coiling Band-Saw.
brought together as shown in Fig. 104 and
twisted as indicated by the arrow B. This
twist results in its falling easily into three
even coils, two of which are formed by the
first twist (A), which turn one over an-
124 COILING BAND SAWS.
other as the third is formed by the twist
at (B). The three rings or loops will then
fit closely together and will not untwist or
open of their own accord. Fig. 105 illus-
trates the operation practically complete
Fig. 106.— Coiling Band-Saw.
with two coils overlapping and teeth upward
while the last loop formed has the teeth
downward and remains to be twisted until
the teeth on the last coil turn uppermost,
and the loop may then be dropped into ad-
COILING BAND SAWS. 125
justment with the first two. Fig. 106 shows
the coiled saw raised up to show the manner
in which the three coils lie together.
Saws coiled in this way are much more
convenient and less liable to injury or break-
age than when kept unrolled, and whereas
a broken saw can be coiled by anyone an
endless saw is impossible to roll, and must
be folded as illustrated.
TABLES OF SIZES, GAGES AND NUM-
BER OF TEETH OF VARIOUS SAWS
DIAMETER AND THICKNESS OF CIRCULAR SAWS
Diam.
Thickness
(Gage)
Diam.
Thickness
(Gage)
4 in.
.19
36 in.
.9
5
.19
38 "
.9
6
.18
40 "
.9
7
.18
42 "
.8
8
.18
. 44 "
.8
9
.17
46 "
.8
10
.16
48 "
.8
12
.15
50 "
.7
14
.15
52 "
.7
16
.14
54 "
.7
18
.13
56 "
.7
20
.13
58 "
.7
22
.12
60 "
.6
24
.11
62 "
.6
26
.11
64 "
.6
28
.10
66 "
.6
30
.10
68 "
.5
32
.10
70 "
.5
34
.09
72 "
.5
126
TABLES OF CIRCULAR-SAW TEETH. 127
COLUMBIAN
SUPERIOR
Inserted Tooth Circular
Saws
Any Gage to 8
Inserted Tooth Circular
Saws
Any Gage to 8
Diam.
Teeth
Diam.
Teeth
40 in.
38
40 in.
22
42 "
40
42
24
44 "
42
44
24
46 "
44
46
26
48 "
46
48
26
50 "
48
50
28
52 "
50
52
28
54 "
52
54
30
56 "
54
56
30
58 "
56
58
32
60 "
58
60
34
62 "
60
62
34
64 "
62
64
36
66 "
64
66
40
68 "
66
68
44
70 "
68
70
44
72 "
70
72
46
74 "
72
74
50
128
DIMENSIONS OF BAND SAWS.
BAND SAWS
Width
Gage
Width
Gage
^in.
18
3 in.
17
Ys '
18
3^ "
17
y* '
18
4 "
16
Ys '
21
4^ "
16
*A '
21
5 "
16
% '
21
5^ "
16
i <
21
6 "
16
ly* '
20
7 "
16
i^ '
20
8 "
14 to 16
m '
20
9 "
14 " 16
\v> i
20
10 "
14 " 16
m '
19
11 "
12 " 14
2 l
19
12 "
12 u 14
VA '
19
14 "
12
21A '
19
SCROLL SAW BLADES
Length ...................... 8 to 24 in.
Width ....................... 1-32 to 2"
Gage ........................ 13 to 24 "
HACK SAW DIMENSIONS.
129
LUMBERMEN S CROSS-CUT SAWS
Length. .
Ga^e
4 to 8 ft.
14 to 19 "
JK SAW BLADES
IIA(
Length
Gage
Width Teeth
6 in.
7 "
24
24
Yi in. Standard 14 teeth
to inch.
8 "
9 "
24
24
For tubing, thin
y> " metal and
10 "
11 "
Y± " brass, 23 teeth
24 [V li to inch.
12 "
12 "
24
21
;•',; ll Standard 14 teeth
to inch.
12 "
12 "
14 "
14 "
21
18
21
18
For thin metal,
% " tubinsr, brass,
52 " etc., 23 teeth
^ " to inch.
17 "
21
M "
17 "
21
1
17 "
17 "
18
18
% "
1 "
18 "
18
1 "
19 "
18
1 (;
20 "
18
1
21 "
18
1
INDEX
A.
PAGE
Adapters for Hack-saws Ill
Amount of Set 33
Angle and Rake 16
B.
Bent Set; Operation of Bending for Set 24
Brazing Band Saws 78, 109
Butcher's Saws 104
C.
Carborundum 118
Care of Hand Saws 94
Choice of a Hand Saw 68
Choice of a Saw 36
( 'lioice of Teeth for Special Purposes 19
Circu]ar Saw Teeth 50
ification of Saws. ". 9
( leaner (Juagc 61
Coiling Hand Saws 120
Comparison of Circular Saw Teeth (>X, (>9
("racks in Saws 110
Cross-cuts; Hand, T \vo-man, Circular 11
Crotch Swages 62
130
INDEX. 131
E. PAGE
Elements of the Teeth 12
Emery Wheel vs. Grindstone 72
F.
Files 41
Files for Saws 112
Filing Clamps 39
Filing Hand Saws 100
Frequency of Filing 36
G.
Guides for Band Saws 115
Gullet or Throat 34
Gummers 01
Gumming or Gulleting 21
H.
Hand vs. Machine Filing and Setting 37
Hardness of Emery Wheels 77
Hints and Wrinkles 50
Home-Made Clamps and Sets 119
Horse Power to Run Circular Saws 92
How To Hammer Circular Saws 83
How To Use Emery Wheels 73
I.
Introduction 7
J
Jointing Hand Saws 98
132 INDEX.
K. PAGE
Kind of Set 22
L.
Lubricating Saws 100
M.
Metal Working Saws 105
Mixter's Rotary 22
O.
Operation of Filing 45
P.
Polishing Saws 116
Preface . 3
R.
Rake for Band Saw Teeth 114
Repairing Hack Saws 10S
Reset ling Hack Saws 107
Reversible Blade (in turner 22
Rip-Saws, Hand, Sash, Circular, and Band 10
S.
Saw Clamp 05
Saw Sets 0(>
Setting Saws 07
Side Angle or Fleam IS
Side Filing 00
Side Jointing •')">
INDEX. 133
PAGE
Sizes and Shapes of Emery Wheels 74
Spacing of Teeth 15
Special Saw Files 113
Speed of Circular Saws 79
Spread Set; Swaging 27
Spring vs. Spread Set 60
Straightening Saws 102
Styles of Circular Saw Teeth 57
T.
Table Dimensions of Band Saws 12S
Table Hack-Saw Dimensions 129
Table of Circular-Saw Teeth 127
Table-Teeth of Various Saws 127
Tooth Length 14
Top Jointing ;;5
To Straighten a Circular Saw 07
mmjmm^MMkmJi^^^
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GARDNER D. Hiscox. The most valuable Techno-chemical
Receipt Book published, including over 10,000 selected scientific
chemical, technological, and practical receipts and processes.
See page 24 for full description of this book. $3.00
CIVIL ENGINEERING
HENLEY'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL EN-
GINEERING AND ALLIED TRADES. Edited by JOSEPH
G. HORNER, A.M.I., M.E. This set of five volumes contains
about 2,500 pages with thousands of illustrations, including dia-
grammatic and sectional drawings with full explanatory details.
It covers the entire practice of Civil and Mechanical Engineering.
It tells you all you want to know about engineering and tells it
so simply, so clearly, so concisely that one cannot help but
understand. $6.OO per volume or $35.00 for complete set of five
volumes.
COKE
COKE— MODERN COKING PRACTICE; INCLUDING
THE ANALYSIS OF MATERIALS AND PRODUCTS.
By T. H. BYROM, Fellow of the Institute of Chemistry, Fellow
of The Chemical Society, etc., and J. E. CHRISTOPHER, Member
of the Society of Chemical Industry, etc. A handbook for
those engaged in Coke manufacture and the recovery of By-
products. Fully illustrated with folding plates.
The subject of Coke Manufacture is of rapidly increasing in-
terest and significance, embracing as it does the recovery of
valuable by-products in which scientific control is of the first
"importance. It has been the aim of the authors, in preparing
«his book, to produce one which shall be of use and benefit to
those who are associated with, or interested in, the modern de-
velopments of the industry.
Contents: Chap. I. Introductory. Chap. II. General Classi-
fication of Fuels. Chap. III. Coal Washing. Chap. IV. The
Sampling and Valuation of Coal, Coke, etc. Chap. V. The
Calorific Power of Coal and Coke. Chap. VI. Coke Ovens.
Chap. VII. Coke Ovens, continued. Chap. VIII. Coke Ovens,
continued. Chap. IX. Charging and Discharging of Coke Ovens.
Chap. X. Cooling and Condensing Plant. Chap. XI. Gas Ex-
hausters. Chap. XII. Composition and Analysis of Ammoniacal
Liquor. Chap. XIII. Working up of Ammoniacal Liquor.
Chap. XIV. Treatment of Waste Gases from Sulphate Plants.
Chap. XV. Valuation of Ammonium Sulphate. Chap. XVI.
Direct Recovery of Ammonia from Coke Oven Gases. Chap.
XVII. Surplus Gas from Coke Oven. Useful Tables. Very
fully illustrated. 83.50 net
COMPRESSED AIR
COMPRESSED AIR IN ALL ITS APPLICATIONS. By
GARDNER D. Hiscox. This is the most complete book on the
subject of Air that has ever been issued, and its thirty-five
chapters include about every phase of the subject one can think
of. It may be called an encyclopedia of compressed air. It is
written by an expert, who, in its 665 pages, has dealt with the
subject in a comprehensive manner, no phase of it being omitted.
Over 500 illustrations, 5th Edition, revised and enlarged.
Cloth bound; S5.OO, Half morocco, *6.50
CONCRETE
ORNAMENTAL CONCRETE WITHOUT MOLDS, By A. A.
HOUGHTON. The process for making ornamental concrete with-
out molds, has lonj been held as a secret and now, for the first
time, this process is given to the public. The book reveals the
secret and is the only book published which explains a simple,
practical method whereby the concrete worker is enabled, by
employing wood and metal templates of different designs, to
mold or model in concrete any Cornice, Archivolt, Column,
Pedestal, Base Cap, Urn or Pier in a monolithic form — right
upon the job. These may be molded in units or blocks, and
then built up to suit the specifications demanded. This work
is fully illustrated, with detailed engravings. $2.00
POPULAR HAND BOOK FOR CEMENT AND CON-
CRETE USERS, By MYRON H. LEWIS, C.E. This is a con-
cise treatise of the principles and methods employed in the
manufacture and use of cement in all classes of modern works.
The author has brought together in this work, all the salient
matter of interest to the user of concrete and its many diversified
products. The matter is presented in logical and systematic
order, clearly written, fully illustrated and free from involved
mathematics. Everything of value to the concrete user is given.
Among the chapters contained in the book are: I. Historical
Development of the Uses of Cement and Concrete. II. Glossary
of Terms employed in Cement and Concrete work. III. Kinds
of Cement employed in Construction. IV. Limes, Ordinary and
Hydraulic. V. Lime Plasters. VI. Natural Cements. VII.
Portland Cements. VIII. Inspection and Testing. IX. Adul-
teration; or Foreign Substances in Cement. X. Sand, Gravel
and Broken Stone. XI. Mortar. XII. Grout. XIII. Con-
crete (Plain). XIV. Concrete (Reinforced). XV. Methods
and Kinds of Reinforcements. XVI. Forms for Plain and Re-
inforced Concrete. XVII. Concrete Blocks. XVIII. Arti-
ficial Stone. XIX. Concrete Tiles. XX. Concrete Pipes and
Conduits. XXI. Concrete Piles. XXII. Concrete Buildings.
XXIII. Concrete in Water Works. XXIV. Concrete in Sewer
Works. XXV. Concrete in Highway Construction. XXVI.
Concrete Retaining Walls. XXVII. Concrete Arches and
Abutments. XXVIII. Concrete in Subway and Tunnels.
XXIX. Concrete in Bridge Work. XXX. Concrete in Docks
and Wharves. XXXI. Concrete Construction under Water.
XXXII. Concrete on the Farm. XXXIII. Concrete Chimneys.
XXXIV. Concrete for Ornamentation. XXXV. Concrete
Mausoleums and Miscellaneous Uses. XXXVI. Inspection for
Concrete Work. XXXVII. Waterproofing Concrete Work.
XXXVIII. Coloring and Painting Concrete Work. XXXIX.
Method of Finishing Concrete Surfaces. XL. Specifications and
Estimates for Concrete Work.
DICTIONARIES
>Ji wj^l c.->3 »JJL U11175 Diction V-'J. aV^lCli^C. VxV
venient. 682 pages — 393 illustrations.
DIES— METAL WORK
DIES, THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE FOR THE
MODERN WORKING OF SHEET METALS. By J. V
WOOD WORTH. A new book by a practical man, for those who
wish to know the latest practice in the working of sheet metals.
It shows how dies are designed, made and used, and those who
are engaged in this line of work can secure many valuable sug-
gestions. S3. 00
PUNCHES, DIES AND TOOLS FOR MANUFACTUR-
ING IN PRESSES. By J. V. WOOD WORTH. An encyclo-
pedia of die-making, punch-making, die-sinking, sheet-metal
working^, and making of special tools, subpresses, devices and
mechanical combinations for punching, cutting, bending, form-
ing, piercing, drawing, compressing, and assembling sheet-
metal parts and also articles of other materials in machine
tools. This is a distinct work from the author's book entitled
"Dies; Their Construction and Use." 500 pages, 700 engrav-
ings. $4.00
DRAWING— SKETCHING PAPER
LINEAR PERSPECTIVE SELF-TAUGHT. By HERMAN
T. C. KRAUS. This work gives the theory and practice of linear
perspective, as used in architectural, engineering, and mechanical
drawings. Persons taking up the study of the subject by them-
selves, without the aid of a teacher, will be able by the use of the
instruction given to readily grasp the subject, and by reason-
able practice become good perspective draftsmen. The arrange-
ment of the book is good; the plate is on the left-hand, while the
descriptive text follows on the opposite page, so as to be readily
referred to. The drawings are on sufficiently large scale to show
the work clearly and are plainly figured. The whole work makes
a very complete course on perspective drawing, and will be
found of great value to architects, civil and mechanical engineers,
patent attorneys, art designers, engravers, and draftsmen. S2..50
PRACTICAL PERSPECTIVE. By RICHARDS and COLVIN.
Shows just how to make all kinds of mechanical drawings in the
only practical perspective isometric. Makes everything plain
so that any mechanic can understand a sketch of drawing in
this way. Saves time in the drawing room and mistakes in the
shops. Contains practical examples of various classes of work.
60 cents
SELF-TAUGHT MECHANICAL DRAWING AND ELE-
MENTARY MACHINE DESIGN. By F. L. SYLVESI KK, M.E.,
Draftsman, with additions by Erik Oberg, associate editor of
"Machinery." A practical elementary treatise on Mechanical
Drawing and Machine Design, comprising the first principles of
geometric and mechanical drawing, workshop mathematics,
mechanics, strength of materials and the calculation and (U-^i^n
of machine details, compiled for the use of practical mechanics
and young draftsmen. 82.00
A NEW SKETCHING PAPER. A new specially ruled paper
to enable you to make sketches or drawing in isometric: per-
spective without any figuring or fussing. H is being usi
shop details as well as for assembly drawings, as it make
sketch do the work of three, and no workman can help si
just what is wanted. Pads of 40 sheets, 6x9 inches, 25 cents
Pads of 40 sheets, 9x12 inches, 50 cents
ELECTRICITY
ARITHMETIC OF ELECTRICITY. By Prof. T. O'CoNOR
SLOANE. A practical treatise on electrical calculations of all
kinds reduced to a series of rules, all of the simplest forms, and
involving only ordinary arithmetic; each rule illustrated by
one or more practical problems, with detailed solution of each
one. This book is classed among the most useful works pub-
lished on the science of electricity covering as it does the mathe-
matics of electricity in a manner that will attract the attention
of those who are not familiar with algebraical formulas. 160
pages. Sl.OO
COMMUTATOR CONSTRUCTION. By WM. BAXTER,
JR. The business end of any dynamo or motor of the direct
current type is the commutator. This book goes into the de-
signing, building, and maintenance of commutators, shows
how to locate troubles and how to remedy them; everyone who
fusses with dynamos needs this. 25 cents
DYNAMO BUILDING FOR AMATEURS. OR HOW TO
CONSTRUCT A FIFTY WATT DYNAMO. By ARTHUR
J. WEED, Member of N. Y. Electrical Society. This book is a
practical treatise showing in detail the construction of a small
dynamo or motor, the entire machine work of which can be done
on a small foot lathe.
Dimensioned working drawings are given for each piece of
machine work and each operation is clearly described.
Thi
The book is illustrated with more than sixty original engrav-
ings showing the actual construction of the different parts. Paper.
Paper 50 cents Cloth $1.00
ELECTRIC FlTRNACES AND THEIR INDUSTRIAL
APPLICATIONS. By J. WRIGHT. This is a book which will
prove of interest to many classes of people; the manufacturer
who desires to know what product can be manufactured success-
fully in the electric furnace, the chemist who wishes to post
himself on the electro-chemistry, and the student of science
who merely looks into the subject from curiosity. 288 pages.
S3. 00
ELECTRIC LIGHTING AND HEATING POCKET
BOOK. By SYDNEY F. WALKER. This book puts in conven-
ient form, useful information regarding the apparatus which is
likely to be attached to the mains of an electrical company.
Tables of units and equivalents are included and useful electrical
laws and formulas are stated. ^43 8 pages, 3 oo engravings. 83.OO
ELECTRIC TOY MAKING, DYNAMO BUILDING, AND
ELECTRIC MOTOR CONSTRUCTION. This work treats
of the making at home of electrical toys, electrical apparatus,
motors, ^dynam os, and instruments in general, and is designed to
bring within the reach of young and old the manufacture of gen-
uine and useful electrical appliances. 185 pages. Fully illus-
trated. 81.0(»
ELECTRIC WIRING, DIAGRAMS AND SWITCH-
BOARDS. By NEWTON HARRISON. This is the only complete
work issued showing and telling you what you should know
about direct and alternating current wiring. It is a ready
reference. The work is free from advanced technicalities and
mathematics. Arithmetic being used throughout. It is in every
respect a handy, well-written, instructive, comprehensive
volume on wiring for the wireman, foreman, contractor or elec-
trician. 272 pages, 105 illustrations. $1.50
ELECTRICIAN'S HANDY BOOK. By PROF. T. O'CoNOR
SLOANE. This work is intended for the practical electrician,
who has to make things go. The entire field of Electricity is
covered within its pages. It contains no useless theory; every-
thing is to the point. It teaches you just what you should
know about electricity. It is the standard work published on
the subject. Forty-one chapters, 610 engravings, handsomely
bound in red leather with titles and edges in gold. $3.50
ELECTRICITY IN FACTORIES AND WORKSHOPS,
ITS COST AND CONVENIENCE. By ARTHUR P. HASLAM.
A practical book for power producers and power users showing
what a convenience the electric motor, in its various forms, has
become to the modern manufacturer. It also deals with the
conditions which determine the cost of electric driving, and
compares this with other methods of producing and utilising
power. 312 pages Very fully illustrated. $5$. 50
ELECTRICITY SIMPLIFIED. By PROF. T. O'CoNOR
SLOANE. The object of "Electricity Simplified" is to make the
subject as plain as possible and to show what the modern con-
ception of electricity is; to show how two plates of different
metals immersed in acid can send a message around the globe;
to explain how a bundle of copper wire rotated by a steam engine
can be the agent in lighting our streets, to tell what the volt, ohm
and ampere are, and what high and low tension mean; and to
answer the questions that perpetually arise in the mind in this
age of electricity. 172 pages. Illustrated. SI. 00
HOW TO BECOME A SUCCESSFUL ELECTRICIAN.
By PROF. T. O'CoNOR SLOANE. An interesting book from cover
to cover. Telling in simplest language the surest and easiest way
to become a successful electrician. The studies to be followed,
methods of work, field of operation and the requirements of the
successful electrician are pointed out and fully explained.
202 pages. Illustrated. SI. 00
MANAGEMENT OF DYNAMOS. By LUMMIS-PATER-
SON. A handbook of theory and practice. This work is arranged
in three parts. The first part covers the elementary theory of
the dynamo. The second part, the construction and action of
the different classes of dynamos in common use are described;
while the third part relates to such matters as affect the prac-
tical management and working of dynamos and motors. 292
pages, 117 illustrations. 81.50
STANDARD ELECTRICAL DICTIONARY. By Prof. T.
O'CoNOR SLOANE. A practical handbook of reference contain-
ing definitions of about 5,000 distinct words, terms and phrases.
The definitions are terse and concise and include every term
used in electrical science. 682 pages, 393 illustrations. $3.00
8
TELEPHONE CONSTRUCTION, INSTALLATION.
WIRING, OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE. By W. H.
RADCLIFFE and H. C. GUSHING. This book gives the principles
of construction and operation of both the Bell and Independent
instruments; approved methods of installing and wiring them;
the means of protecting them from lightning and abnormal cur-
rents; their connection together for operation as series or bridg-
ing stations; and rules for their inspection and maintenance.
Line wiring and the wiring and operation of special telephone
systems are also treated. 180 pages, 125 illustrations. Sl.OO
WIRING A HOUSE. By HERBERT PRATT. Shows a house
already built; tells just how to start about wiring it. Where to
begin; what wire to use; how to run it according to insurance
rules, in fact just the information you need. Directions apply
equally to a shop. Fourth edition. 25 cents
WIRELESS TELEPHONES AND HOW THEY WORK.
By JAMES ERSKINE-MURRAY. This work is free from elaborate
details and aims at giving a clear survey of the way in which
Wireless Telephones work. It is intended for amateur workers
and for those whose knowledge of Electricity is slight. Chap-
ters contained: How We Hear — Historical — The Conversion of
Sound into Electric Waves — Wireless Transmission — The Pro-
duction of Alternating Currents of High Frequency — How the
Electric Waves are Radiated and Received — The Receiving
Instruments — Detectors — Achievements and Expectations —
jlossary of Technical Work. Cloth. 81.00
ENAMELING
FACTORY MANAGEMENT, ETC.
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY RECEIPT BOOK.
by GARDNER D. Hiscox. A work of 10,000 practical
_ ceipts, including enameling receipts for hollow ware, for
metals, for signs, for china and porcelain, for wood, etc. Thor-
ough and practical. See page 24 for full description of this book.
I S3. 00
MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, EQUIP-
NT AND MANAGEMENT. By O. E. PERRIGO, M.E. A
k designed for the practical and every-day use of the Archi-
who designs, the Manufacturers who build, the Engineers
wno plan and equip, the Superintendents who organize and
direct, and for the information of every stockholder, director,
officer, accountant, clerk, superintendent, foreman, and work-
man of the modern machine shop and manufacturing plant of
Industrial America. $5.00
FUEL
COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVENTIO
OF SMOKE. By WM. M. BARR. To be a success a firema
must be "Light on Coal." He must keep his fire in good COT
dition, and prevent, as far as possible, the smoke nuisana
To do this, he should know how coal burns, how smoke is forme
and the proper burning of fuel to obtain the best results. H
can learn this, and more too, from Barr's "Combustion of Coal.
It is an absolute authority on all questions relating to the Firin
of a Locomotive. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. $!.(]
SMOKE PREVENTION AND FUEL ECONOMY. B
BOOTH and KERSHAW. As the title indicates, this book of 19
pages and 75 illustrations deals with the problem of complet
combustion, which it treats from the chemical and mechanic;
standpoints, besides pointing out the economical and human
tarian aspects of the question. $2.5
GAS ENGINES AND GAS
CHEMISTRY OF GAS MANUFACTURE. By H. M
ROYLES. A practical treatise for the use of gas engineers, ga
managers and students. Including among its contents — Prepa
rations of Standard Solutions, Coal, Furnaces, Testing ani
Regulation. Products of Carbonization. Analysis of Crude Coz
Gas. Analysis of Lime. Ammonia. Analysis of Oxide of Iror
Naphthalene. Analysis of Fire-Bricks and Fire-Clay. Weldor
«nd Spent Oxide. Photometry and Gas Testing. Carbui
etted Water Gas. Metropolis Gas. Miscellaneous Extract?
Useful Tables. $4.5
GAS ENGINE CONSTRUCTION, Or How to Build a Half
Horse-power Gas Engine. By PARSELL and WEED. A prac
tical treatise describing the theory and principles of the action o
gas engines of various types, and the design and construction of ;
half-horse-power gas engine, with illustrations of the work ii
actual progress, together with dimensioned working drawings giv
ing clearly the sizes of the various details. 300 pages. $2.5<
GAS, GASOLINE, AND OIL ENGINES. By GARDNER D
Hiscox. Just issued, i8th revised and enlarged edition. Kvcr;
user of a gas engine needs this book. Simple, instructive, anc
right up-to-date. The only complete work on the subject. Tell
all about the running and management of gas, gasoline and oi
engines as designed and manufactured in the United States
Explosive motors for stationary, marine and vehicle power an
fully treated, together with illustrations of their parts and tabu
lated sizes, also their care and running are included. Electrit
Ignition by Induction Coil and Jump Sparks are fully explainec
and illustrated, including valuable information on the testing fo:
economy and power and the erection of power plants.
The special information on PRODUCER and SUCTION GASES in
eluded cannot fail to prove of value to all interested in the gen
eration of producer gas and its utilization in gas engines.
The rules and regulations of the Board of Fire Underwriter:
in regard to the installation and management of Gasoline Motor:
is given in full, suggesting the safe installation of explosive motoi
power. A list of United States Patents issued on Gas, Gasolin*
and Oil Engines and their adjuncts from 1875 to date is included
484 pages, 410 engravings. 83. SO nel
MODERN GAS ENGINES AN1> PRODUCER GAS
PLANTS. By R. E. MATHCT, M.E. A practical treatise of
320 pages, fully illustrated by 175 detailed illustrations, setting
forth the principles of gas engines and producer design, the selec-
tion and installation of an engine, conditions of perfect opera-
tion, producer-gas engines and their possibilities, the care of gas
engines and producer-gas plants, with a chapter on volatile
hydrocarbon and oil engines. This book has been endorsed by
Dugal Clerk as a most usetul work for all interested, in Gas Engine
installation and Producer Gas. 82.50
GEARING AND CA IS
BEVEL. GEAR TABLES. By D. Ac. ENGSTROM. No one
who has to do with bevel gears in any way should be without
this book. The designer and draftsman will find it a great con-
venience, while to the machinist who turns up the blanks or cuts
the teeth, it is invaluable, as all needed dimensions are given
and no fancy figuring need be done. $1.00
CHANGE GEAR DEVICES. By OSCAR E. PERRIGO. A
book for every designer, draftsman and mechanic who is inter-
ested in feed changes for any kind of machines. This shows what
has been done and how. Gives plans, patents and all information
that you need. Saves hunting through patent records and rein-
venting old ideas. A standard work of reference. 81.00
DRAFTING OF CAMS. By Louis ROUILLION. The
laying out of cams is a serious problem unless you know how to
go at it right. This puts you on the right road for practically
any kind of cam you are likely to run up against. 25 cents
HYDRAULICS
HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING. By GARDNER D. Hiscox.
^ treatise on the properties, power, and resources of water for all
purposes. Including the measurement of streams; the flow of
water in pipes or conduits; the horse-power of falling water;
urbine and impact water-wheels; wave-motors, centrifugal,
ciprocating, and air-lift pumps. With 300 figures and dia-
ams and 36 practical tables. 320 pages. 84.00
ICE AND REFRIGERATION
POCKET BOOK OF REFRIGERATION AND ICE MAK-
By A. J. WALLIS-TAYLOR. This is one of the latest and
.ost comprehensive reference books published on the subject
E refrigeration and cold storage. It explains the properties and
refrigerating effect of the different fluids in use, the manage-
ment of refrigerating machinery and the construction and insula-
tion of cold rooms with their required pipe surface for different
legrees of cold; freezing mixtures and non-freezing brines,
emperatures of cold rooms for all kinds of provisions, cold
orage charges for all classes of goods, ice making and storage of
e, data and memoranda for constant reference by refrigerating
ngineers, with nearly one hundred tables containing valuable
iferences to every fact and condition required in the installment
operation of a refrigerating plant. 81.50
II
INVENTIONS— PATENTb
INVENTOR'S MANUAL, HOW TO MAKE A PATENT
PAY. This is a book designed as a guide to inventors in per-
fecting: their inventions, taking out their patents, and disposing
of them. It is not in any sense a Patent Solicitor's Circular,
nor a latent Broker's Advertisement. No advertisements of any
description appear in the work. It is a book containing a quartei
of a century's experience of a successful inventor, together with
notes based upon the experience of many other inventors. SI. 00
LATHE PRACTICE
MODERN AMERICAN LATHE PRACTICE. By OSCAR
E. PERRIGO. An up-to-date book on American Lathe Work,
describing and illustrating the very latest practice in lathe and
boring-mill operations, as well as the construction of and latest
developments in the manufacture of these important classes of
machine tools. 300 pages, fully illustrated. S2.5O
PRACTICAL METAL TURNING. By JOSEPH G. HORNER.
A work of 404 pages, fully illustrated, covering in a comprehen-
sive manner the modern practice of machining metal parts in
the lathe, including the regular engine lathe, its essential design,
its uses, its tools, its attachments, and the manner of holding the
work and performing the operations. The modernized engine
lathe, its methods, tools, and great range of accurate work. The
Turret Lathe, its tools, accessories and methods of performing
its functions. Chapters on special work, grinding, tool holders,
speeds, feeds, modern tool steels, etc., etc. $3.50
TURNING AND BORING TAPERS. By FRED H. COL-
VIN. There are two ways to turn tapers; the right way and
one other. This treatise has to do with the right way; it tells
you how to start the work properly, how to set the lathe, what
tools to use and how to use them, and forty and one other little
things that you should know. Fourth edition. 25 cents
LIQUID AIR
M^IQUID AIR AND THE LIQUEFACTION OF GASES.
By T. O'CoNOR SLOANE. Theory, history, biography, practical
applications, manufacture. .365 pages. Illustrated. $2.00
LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERING
AIR-BRAKE CATECHISM. By ROBERT H. BLACKALL.
This book is a standard text book. It covers the Westinghouse
Air-Brake Equipment, including the No. 5 and the No. 6 E T
Locomotive Brake Equipment; the K (Quick-Service) Triple
Valve for Freight Service; and the Cross-Compound Pump.
The operation of all parts of the apparatus is explained in detail,
ami a practical way of finding their peculiarities and defects,
with a proper rernedv, is given. It contains 2,000 questions with
their answers, which will enable any -ailroad man to pass any
examination on the subject of Air Brakes. Endorsed and used
by air-brake instructors and examiners on nearly every rail-
road in the United States. 236 Edition. 380 pages, fully
illustrated with folding plates ",nd diagrams. 92.00
AMERICAN COMPOUND LOCOMOTIVES. By FRED
H. COLVIN. The most complete book on compounds published.
Shows all types, including the balanced compound. Makes
everything clear by many illustrations, and shows valve setting,
breakdowns and repairs. 142 pages. $1.00
APPLICATION OF HIGHLY SUPERHEATED STEAM
TO LOCOMOTIVES. By ROBERT GARBE. A practical book.
Contains special chapters on Generation of Highly Superheated
Steam; Superheated Steam and the Two-Cylinder Simple
Engine; Compounding and Superheating; Designs of Locomotive
Superheaters; Constructive Details of Locomotives using Highly
Superheated Steam; Experimental and Working Results. Illus-
trated with folding plates and tables. S3. 50
COMBUSTION OF COAL AND THE PREVENTION
OF SMOKE. By WM. M. BARR. To be a success a fireman
must be " Light on Coal." He must keep his fire in good con-
dition, and prevent as far as possible, the smoke nuisance.
To do this, he should know how coal burns, how smoke is formed
and the proper burning of fuel to obtain the best results. * He
can learn this, and more too, from Barr's "Combination of Coal."
It is an absolute authority on all questions relating to the Firing
of a Locomotive. Nearly 350 pages, fully illustrated. $1.00
LINK MOTIONS, VALVES AND VALVE SETTING. By
FRED H. COLVIX, Associate Editor of "American Machinist."
A handy book that clears up the mysteries of valve setting.
Shows the different valve gears in use, how they work, and why.
Piston and slide valves of different types are illustrated and
explained. A book that every railroad man in the motive-
>wer department ought to have. Fully illustrated. 50 cents.
LOCOMOTIVE BOILER CONSTRUCTION. By FRANK
KLEIXHANS. The only book showing how locomotive
ilers are built in modern shops. Shows all types of boilers
used; gives details of construction; practical facts, such as
life of riveting punches and dies, work done per day, allowance
for bending and flanging sheets and other data that means dol-
lars to any railroad man. 421 pages, 334 illustrations. Six
folding plates. $3.00
LOCOMOTIVE BREAKDOWNS AND THEIR REM-
EDIES. By GEO. L. FOWLER. Revised by Wm. W. Wood,
Air-Brake Instructor. Just issued 1910 Revised pocket edition.
It is put of the question to try and tell you about every subject
that is covered in this pocket edition of Locomotive Breakdowns.
Just imagine all the common troubles that an engineer may ex-
pect to happen some time, and then add all of the unexpected
ones, troubles that could occur, but that you had never thought
about, and you will find that they are all treated with the very
best methods of repair. Walschaert Locomotive Valve Gear
Troubles, Electric Headlight Troubles, as well as Questions and
Answers on the Air Brake are all included. 294 pages. Fully
illustrated. $1.00
LOCOMOTIVE CATECHISM. By ROBERT GRIMSHAW.
27th revised and enlarged edition. This may well be called an
encyclopedia of the locomotive. Contains over 4,000 examina-
tion questions with their answers, including among them those
asked at the First, Second and Third year's Examinations.
825 pages, 437 illustrations and 3 folding plates. $2.50
13
NEW YORK AIK-BTIAKE CATECHISM. By ROBERT
H. BLACKBALL. This is a complete treatise on the New York
Air-Brake and Air-Signalling Apparatus, giving a detailed de-
scription of all the parts, their operation, troubles, and the
methods of locating and remedying the same. 200 pages, fully
illustrated. $1.00
POCKET-RAILROAD DICTIONARY AND VADE ME-
CUM. By FRED H. COLVIN, Associate Editor "American
Machinist." Different from any book you ever saw. Gives clear
and concise information on just the points you are interested in.
It's really a pocket dictionary, fully illustrated, and so arranged
that you can find just what you want in a second without an
index. Whether you are interested in Axles or Acetylene; Com-
pounds or Counter Balancing; Rails or Reducing Valves; Tires
or Turntables, you'll find them in this little book. It's very
complete. Flexible cloth cover, 200 pages. $1.OO
TRAIN RULES AND DESPATCHING. By H. A. DALBY.
Contains the standard code for both single and double track and
explains how trains are handled under all conditions. Gives all
signals in colors, is illustrated wherever necessary, and the
most complete book in print on this important subject. Bound
in fine seal flexible leather. 221 pages. $1.50
WALSCHAERT LOCOMOTIVE VALVE GEAR. By
WM. W. WOOD. If you would thoroughly understand the
Walschaert Valve Gear, you should possess a copy of this book.
The author divides the subject into four divisions, as follows:
I. Analysis of the gear. II. Designing and erecting of the gear.
III. Advantages of the gear. IV. Questions and answers re-
lating to the Walschaert Valve Gear. This book is specially valu-
able to those preparing for promotion. Nearly 200 pages. $1.50
WESTINGHOUSE E T AIR-BRAKE INSTRUCTION
POCKET BOOK CATECHISM. By WM. W. WOOD, Air-Brake
Instructor. A practical work containing examination questions
and answers on the E T Equipment. Covering what the E T
Brake is. How it should be operated. What to do when de-
fective. Not a question can be asked of the engineman up for
promotion on either the No. 5 or the No. 6 E T equipment that
is not asked and answered in the book. If you want to thor-
oughly understand the E T equipment get a copy of this book.
It covers every detail. Makes Air-Brake troubles and examina-
tions easy. Fully illustrated with colored plates, showing
various pressures. $2.0O
MACHINE SHOP PRACTICE
AMERICAN TOOL MAKING AND INTERCHANGE-
ABLE MANUFACTI'RING. B} J. V. \Voon\voRTH. A
practical treatise on the dc-si^ning, constructing, use, and in-
stallation of tools, jigs, fixtures, appliances,
sheet-metal working processes, automatic mechanisms, and
labor-saving contr er with their use in the lathe
milling machine, turret lathe, screw machine, boring mill, power
press, drill, subi" >r the working of
metals, the production of interchangeable machine parts, and
the manufacture of repetition articles of metal. 560 pages,
600 illustrations. $4.00
HENLEY'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL EN-
GINEERING AND ALLIED TRADES. Edited by JOSEPH
G. HORNER. A.M.I.Mech.I. This work covers the entire prac-
tice of 'Civil and Mechanical Engineering. The best known ex-
perts in all branches of engineering have contributed to these
volumes. The Cyclopedia is admirably well adapted to the needs
of the beginner and the self-taught practical man, as well as the
mechanical engineer, designer, draftsman, shop superintendent,
foreman and machinist.
It is a modern treatise in fr/e volumes. Handsomely bound
in Half Morocco, each volume containing nearly 500 pages, with
thousands of illustrations, including diagrammatic and sectional
drawings with full explanatory details. S25.00 for the com-
plete set of five volumes. $6.00 per volume, when ordered singly.
MACHINE SHOP ARITHMETIC. By COLVIN-CHENEY.
Most popular book for shop men. Shows how all shop problems
are worked out and "why." Includes change gears for cutting
any threads; drills, taps, shink and force fits; metric system
of measurements and threads. Used by all classes of mechanics
and for instruction of Y. M. C. A. and other schools. Fifth
edition. 131 pages. 60 cents
MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS, POWERS, AND DE-
VICES. By GARDNER D. Hiscox. This is a collection of 1890
engravings of different mechanical motions and appliances, ac-
companied by appropriate text, making it a book of great value
to the inventor, the draftsman, and to all readers with mechanical
tastes. The book is divided into eighteen sections or chapters
in which the subject matter is classified under the following
heads: Mechanical Powers, Transmission of Power, Measurement
of Power, Steam Power, Air Power Appliances, Electric Powei
and Construction, Navigation and Roads, Gearing, Motion and
Devices, Controlling Motion, Horological, Mining, Mill and
Factory Appliances, Construction and Devices, Drafting Devices,
Miscellaneous Devices, etc. nth edition. 400 octavo pages.
$2.50
MECHANICAL APPLIANCES, MECHANICAL MOVE-
MENTS AND NOVELTIES OF CONSTRUCTION. By
GARDNER D. Hiscox. This is a supplementary volume to the
one upon mechanical movements. Unlike the first volume,
which is more elementary in character, this volume contains
illustrations and descriptions of many combinations of motions
and of mechanical devices and appliances found_in different lines
of Machinery. Each device being shown by a line drawing with
;L description showing its working parts and the method of opera-
tion. From the multitude of devices described, and illustrated,
mi;cht be mentioned, in passing, such items as conveyors^and
elevators, Prony brakes, thermometers, various types of boilers,
solar engines, oil-fuel burners, condensers, evaporators, Corliss
• her valve gears, governors, gas engines, water motors of
various descriptions, air ships, motors and dynamos, automobile
and motor bicycles, railway block signals, car couples, link and
i notions, ball bearings, breech block mechanism for heavy
, and a large accumulation of others of equal importance.
1,000 specially made engravings. 396 octavo pages. $2.50
cpppfAf OPFFR These two volumes sell for $2.50 each,
orEA-'1/*Ll ^rrr,iv ^ut when t^e two volumes are ordered
at one time from us, we send them prepaid to any address i:i the
world, on receipt of $4.00. You save $i by ordering thS two
S of Mechanical Movements at one time.
MODERN MACHINE SHOP CONSTRUCTION, EQUIP-
MENT AND MANAGEMENT. By OSCAR E. PERRIGO.
The only work published that describes the Modern Machine
Shop or Manufacturing Plant from the time the grass is growing
on the site intended for it until the finished product is shipped.
Just the book needed by those contemplating the erection of
modern shop buildings, the rebuilding and reorganization of old
ones, or the introduction of Modern Shop Methods, Time and
Cost Systems. It is a book written and illustrated by a prac-
tical shop man for practical shop men who are too busy to read
theories and want facts. It is the most complete all-around book
of its kind ever published. 400 1arge quarto pages, 225 original
and specially-made illustrations. $5.00
MODERN MACHINE SHOP TOOLS; THEIR CON-
STRUCTION, OPERATION, AND MANIPULATION. By
W. H. VANDERVOORT. A work of 555 pages and 673 illustra-
tions, describing in every detail the construction, operation, and
manipulation of both Hand and Machine Tools. Includes
chapters on filing, fitting, and scraping surfaces; on drills, ream-
ers, taps, and dies; the lathe and its tools; planers, shapers,
and their tools; milling machines and cutters; gear cutters and
gear cutting; drilling machines and drill work; grinding ma-
chines and their work; hardening and tempering; gearing,
belting and transmission machinery; useful data and tables.
$1.00
THE MODERN MACHINIST. By JOHN T. USHER. This
book might be called a compendium of shop methods, showing a
variety of special tools and appliances which will give new ideas
to many mechanics from the superintendent down to the man
at the bench. It will be found a valuable addition to any machin-
ist's library and should be consulted whenever a new or difficult
job is to be done, whether it is boring, milling, turning, or plan-
ing, as they are all treated in a practical manner. Fifth edition.
320 pages, 250 illustrations. $2.50
MODERN MECHANISM. Edited by PARK BENJAMIN. A
practical treatise on machines, motors and the transmissi®n of
power, being a complete work and a supplementary volume to
Appleton's Cyclopedia of Applied Mechanics. Deals solely with
the principal and most useful advances of the past few years.
959 pages containing over 1,000 illustrations; bound in half
morocco. $1.00
MODERN MILLING MACHINES: THEIR DESIGN,
CONSTRUCTION AND OPERATION. By
HOKXER. This book describes and illustrates the Millir
chine and its work in such a plain, clear, and forceful mannc r,
and illustrates the subject so clearly and completely, that the
up-to-date machinist, student, or mechanical engineer can not
alTord to do without the valuable information which it coi
It describes not only the early murhines of this class, but notes
their gradual d< i:ito the splendid machines of the
preset t ruction of the A
• rial feutr 1 by pro:
manufacturers, American and foreign. 304 pages, 300 illustra-
tions. Sl.oo
•' SHOP KINKS." r GRIMSTIAW. This si
special methods of do;: »us kinds, :u
cost of production. 11.. kinks from some of the la
shops in this country a sure to find
some that apply to your work, and in such a way as to save time
400 pages. Fourth edition,
TOOLS FOR MACHINISTS AND WOOD WORKERS,
INCLUDING INSTRUMENTS OF MEASUREMENT. By
JOSEPH G. HORNER. A practical treatise of 340 pages, fully
illustrated and comprising a general description and ciassiLca-
tion of cutting tools and tool angles, allied cutting tools for
machinists and woodworkers; shearing tools; scraping tools;
saws; milling cutters; drilling and boring tools; taps and dies;
punches and hammers; and the hardening, tempering and
grinding of these tools. Tools for measuring and testing work,
including standards of measurement; surface plates; levels;
surface gauges; dividers; calipers; verniers; micrometers;
snap, cylindrical and limit gauges; screw thread, wire and
reference gauges, indicators, templets, etc. $3.50
MANUAL TRAINING
ECONOMICS OF MANUAL TRAINING. By T GUIS
ROUILLION. The only book that gives just the information
needed by all interested in manual training, regarding buildings,
equipment and supplies. 'Shows exactly what is needed for all
grades of the wpi /c from the Kindergarten to the High and Nor-
mal School. Gives itemized lists of everything needed and tells
just what it ought to cost. Also shows where to buy supplies.
$1.50
MARINE ENGINEERING
MARINE ENGINES AND BOILERS, THEIR DESIGN
AND CONSTRUCTION. By DR. G. BAUER, LESLIE S.
ROBERTSON, and S. BRYAN DONKIN. This work is clearly
written, thoroughly systematic, theoretically sound; while the
character of its plans, drawings, tables, and statistics is without
reproach. The illustrations are careful reproductions from
actual working drawings, with some well-executed photographic
views of completed engines and boilers. $9.00 net
MINING
*ORE DEPOSITS OF SOUTH AFRICA WITH A
CHAPTER ON HINTS TO PROSPECTORS. By J. P. JOHN-
SON. This book gives a condensed account of the ore-deposits
at present known in South Africa. It is also intended as a guide
to the prospector. Only an elementary knowledge of geology
and some mining experience are necessary in order to under-
stand this work. With these qualifications, it will materially
assist one in his search for metalliferous mineral occurrences
and, so far as simple ores are concerned, should enable one to
form some idea of the possibilities of any they may find.
Among the chapters given are: Titaniferous and Chromif-
erous Iron Oxides — Nickel — Copper — Cobalt — Tin — Molyb-
denum— Tungsten — Lead — Mercury — Antimony — I r o n — Hints
to Prospectors. Illustrated. $2.00
PRACTICAL COAL MINING. By T. H. COCKIN. An im-
portant work, containing 428 pages and 213 illustrations, com-
plete with practical details, which will intuitively impart to the
reader, not only a general knowledge of the principles of coal
mining, but also considerable insight into allied subjects. The
treatise is positively up to date in every instance, and should
be in the hands of every colliery engineer, geologist, mine
operator, superintendent, foreman, and all others whp are in-
terested in or connoted with the industry,
PHYSICS AND CHEMISTRY OF MINING. By T. H.
BYROM. A practical work for the use of all preparing for ex-
aminations in mining or qualifying for colliery managers' cer-
tificates. The aim of the author in this excellent book is to place
clearly before the reader useful and authoritative data which
will render him valuable assistance in his studies. The only work
of its kind published. The information incorporated in it will
prove of the greatest practical utility to students, mining en-
gineers, colliery managers, and all others who are specially in-
terested in the present-day treatment of mining problems. 160
pages. Illustrated. $2.00
MISCELLANEOUS
BRONZES. Henley's Twentieth Century Receipt Book con-
tains many practical formulas on bronze casting, imitation
bronze, bronze polishes, renovation of bronze. See page 24 lor
full description of this book. $3.00
EMINENT ENGINEERS. By D WIGHT GODDARD. Every-
one who appreciates the effect of such great inventions as the
Steam Engine, Steamboat, Locomotive, Sewing Machine, Steel
Working, and other fundamental discoveries, is interested in
knowing a little about the men who made them and their achieve-
ments.
Mr. Goddard has selected thirty-two of the world's engineers
who have contributed most largely to the advancement of our
civilization by mechanical means, giving only such facts as are of
general interest and in a way which appeals to all, whether
mechanics or not. 280 pages, 35 illustrations. $1.£0
LAWS OF BUSINESS, By THEOPHILUS PARSONS, LL.D.
The Best Book for Business Men ever Published. Treats clearly
of Contracts, Sales, Notes, Bills of Exchange, Agency, Agree-
ment, Stoppage in Transitu, Consideration, Limitations, Leases,
Partnership, Executors, Interest, Hotel Keepers, Fire and Life
Insurance, Collections, Bonds, Frauds, Receipts, Patents, Deeds
Mortgages, Liens, Assignments, Minors, Married Women, Arbi-
tration, Guardians, Wills, etc. Three Hundred Approved Forms
are given. Every Business Man should have a copy of this book
for ready reference. The book is bound in full sheep, and Con-
tains 864 Octavo Pages. Our special price. $3. GO
PATTERN MAKING
PRACTICAL PATTERN MAKING. By F. W. BARROWS.
This is a very complete and entirely practical treatise on the
subject of oattern making, illustrating pattern work in wo<
metal. From its pages you are taught just what you si
know about pattern making. It contains a detailed descr
of the materials used by pattern makers, also the tools, both
those for hand use, and the more interesting machine tools; hav-
nplete chapters on The Band Saw, The Buzz Saw, and The
Lathe. Individxial patterns of many different kinds are fully
illustrated and d< i the mounting of metal patterns on
plates for molding machines is included. $3.00
PERFUMERY
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE-
CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by G. U.
Uiscox. The most valuable Techno-Chemical Receipt Book
published. Contains over 10,000 practical Receipts many of
which will prove of special value to the perfumer, a mine of in-
formation, up to date in every respect. Cloth, 83.00; half
morocco. See page 34 for full description of this book, $4,00
tf
PERFUMES AND THEIR PREPARATION. By G. W.
ASKINSON, Perfumer. A comprehensive treatise, in which
there has been nothing omitted that could be of value to the
Perfumer. Complete directions for making handkerchief per-
fumes, smelling-salts, sachets, fumigating pastilles; preparations
for the care of the skin, the mouth, the hair, cosmetics, hair dyes
and other toilet articles are given, also a detailed description
of aromatic substances; their nature, tests of purity, and
wholesale manufacture. A book of general, as well as profes-
sional interest, meeting the wants not only of the druggist and
perfume manufacturer, but also of the general public. Third
edition. 312 pages. Illustrated. $3.00
PLUMBING
MODERN PLUMBING ILLUSTRATED. By R. M.
STARBUCK. The author of this book, Mr. R. M. Starbuck, is one
of the leading authorities on plumbing in the United States. The
book represents the highest standard of plumbing work. It has
been adopted and used as a reference book by the United States
Government, in its sanitary work in Cuba, Porto Rico and the
Philippines, and by the principal Boards of Health of the United
States and Canada.
It gives Connections, Sizes and Working Data for All Fixtures
and Groups of Fixtures. It is helpful to the Master Plumber in
Demonstrating to his customers and in figuring work. It gives
the Mechanic and Student quick and easy Access to the best
Modern Plumbing Practice. Suggestions for Estimating Plumb-
ing Construction are contained in its pages. This book repre-
sents, in a word, the latest and best up-to-date practice, and
should be in the hands of every architect, sanitary engineer
(~nd plumber who wishes to keep himself up to the minute on this
nportant feature of construction. 400 octavo pages, fully
lustrated by 55 full-page engravings. $4.00
RUBBER
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE-
CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by GARD-
NER D. Hiscox. Contains upward of 10,000 practical receipts,
including among them formulas on artificial rubber. See page
for full description of this book. $3.00
RUBBER HAND STAMPS AND THE MANIPULATION
[>F INDIA RUBBER. By T. O'CoNOR SLOANE. This book
gives full details on all points, treating in a concise and simple
manner the elements of nearly everything it is necessary to under-
stand for a commencement in any branch of the India Rubber
anufacture. The making of all kinds of Rubber Hand Stamps,
mall Articles of India Rubber, U. S. Government Composi-
tion, Dating Hand Stamps, the Manipulation of Sheet Rubber,
Toy Balloons, India Rubber Solutions, Cements, Blackings,
Renovating Varnish, and Treatment for India Rubber Shoes,
etc.; the Hektograph Stamp Inks, and Miscellaneous Notes,
with a Short Account of the Discovery, Collection, and Manufac-
ture of India Rubber are set forth in a. manner designed to be
readily understood, the explanations being plain and simple.
f)eeonc| edition, 144 .pages, Illustrate^ $1.0(j
IQ
SAWS
SAW FILING AND MANAGEMENT OF SAWS. By
ROBERT GRIMSHAW. A practical hand book on filing, gumming,
swaging, hammering, and the brazing of band saws, the speed,
work, and power to run circular saws, etc. A handy book for
those who have charge of saws, or for those mechanics who do
their own filing, as it deals with the proper shape and pitches of
saw teeth of all kinds and gives many useful hints and rules for
gumming, setting, and filing, and is a practical aid to those who
use saws for any purpose. New edition, revised and enlarged.
Illustrated. 81.00
SCREW CUTTING
THREADS AND THREAD CUTTING. By COLVIN and
STABEL. This clears up many of the mysteries of thread-
cutting, such as double and triple threads, internal threads, catch-
ing threads, use of hobs, etc. Contains a lot of useful hints and
several tables. 35 cents
SHEET METAL WORK
DIES, THEIR CONSTRUCTION AND USE FOR THE
MODERN WORKING OF SHEET METALS. By J. V.
WOODWORTH. A new book by a practical man, for those who
wish to know the latest practice in the working of sheet metals.
It shows how dies are designed, made and used, and those who
are engaged in this line of work can secure many valuable
suggestions. 83.00
PUNCHES, DIES AND TOOLS FOR MANUFACTUR-
ING IN PRESSES. By J. V. WOODWORTH. A work of 500
pages and illustrated by nearly 700 engravings, being an en-
cyclopedia of die-making, punch-making, die sinking, sheet-
metal working, and making of special tools, subpresses, devices
and mechanical combinations for punching, cutting, bending,
forming, piercing, drawing, compressing, and assembling sheet-
metal parts and also articles of other materials in machine tools.
$4.00
STEAM ENGINEERING
AMERICAN STATIONARY ENGINEERING. By W.
E. CRANE. A new book by a well-known author. Begins at
the boiler room and takes in the whole power plant. Contains
the result of years of practical experience in all sorts of engine
rooms and gives exact information that cannot be found else-
where. It's plain enough for practical men and yet of value to
those high in the profession. Has a complete examination for a
license. S3. 00
" BOILER ROOM CHART. By GEO. L. FOWLER. A Chart
— size 14 x 28 inches — showing in isometric perspective the
mechanisms belonging in a modern boiler room. Water tube
boilers, ordinary grates and mechanical stokers, feed water
heaters and pumps comprise the equipment. The various parts
are shown broken or removed, so that the internal construetion
is fully illustrated. Each part is given a reference number, and
these, with the corresponding name, are given in a glossary
printed at the sides. This chart is really a dictionary of the
boiler room — the names of more than 200 parts being given.
It is educational — worth many times its i ' *'•> i:eiit«»
ENGINE RUNNER'S CATECHISM. By RpBERT GRIM-
SHAW. Tells how to erect, adjust, and run the principal steam
engines in use in the United States. The work is of a handy
size for the pocket. To young engineers this catechism will be
of great value, especially to those who may be preparing to go
forward to be examined for certificates of competency; and
to engineers generally it will be of no little service as they will
find in this volume more really practical and useful information
than is to be found anywhere else within a like compass. 387
pages. Sixth edition. 82. OO
ENGINE TESTS AND BOILER EFFICIENCIES. By
J. BUCHETTI. This work fully describes and illustrates the
method of testing the power of steam engines, turbine and
explosive motors. The properties of steam and the evapora-
tive power of fuels. Combustion of fuel and chimney draft;
with formulas explained or practically computed. 255 pages,
179 illustrations. 83.00
HORSE POWER CHART. Shows the horse power of any
stationary engine without calculation. No matter what the
cylinder diameter or stroke; the steam pressure or cut-off; the
revolutions, or whether condensing or non-condensing, it's all
there. Easy to use, accurate, and saves time and calculations.
Especially useful to engineers and designers. 50 cents
MODERN STEAM ENGINEERING IN THEORY AND
PRACTICE. By GARDNER D. Hiscox. This is a complete and
practical work issued for Stationary Engineers and Firemen
dealing with the care and management of Boilers, Engines,
Pumps, Superheated Steam, Refrigerating Machinery, Dyna-
mos, Motors, Elevators, Air Compressors, and all other branches
with which the modern Engineer must be familiar. Nearly
200 Questions with their Answers on Steam and Electrical
Engineering, likely to be asked by the Examining Board, are
included. 487 pages, 405 engravings. $3.00
STEAM ENGINE CATECHISM. By ROBERT GRIMSHAW.
This volume of 413 pages is not only a catechism on the question
and answer principle; but it contains formulas and worked-out
answers for all the Steam problems that appertain to the opera-
tion and management of the Steam Engine. Illustrations of
various valves and valve gear with their principles of operation
are given. 34 tables that are indispensable to every engineer and
fireman that wishes to be progressive and is ambitious to become
master of his calling are within its pages. It is a most valuable
instructor in the service of Steam Engineering. Leading en-
gineers have recommended it as a valuable educator for the be-
ginner as well as a reference book for the engineer. Sixteenth
edition. $3.0fl
STEAM ENGINEER'S ARITHMETIC. By COLVIN-
CHENEY. A practical pocket book for the Steam Engineer.
Shows how to work the problems of the engine room and shows
"why." Tells how to figure horse-power of engines and boilers;
area of boilers; has tables of areas and circumferences; steam
tables; has a dictionary of engineering terms. Puts you onto
all of the little kinks in figuring whatever there is to figure
around a power plant. Tells you about the heat unit; absolute
zero; adiabatic expansion; duty of engines; factor of safety;
and i.ooi other things; and everything is plain and simple
not the hardest way to figure, but the easiest
STEAM HEATING AND VENTILATION
PRACTICAL STEAM, HOT-WATER HEATING AND
VENTILATION. By A. G. KING. This book is the standard
and latest work published on the subject and has been prepared
for the use of all engaged in the business of steam, hot-water
heating and ventilation. It is an original and exhaustive work.
Tells how to get heating contracts, how to install heating and
ventilating apparatus, the best business methods to be used, with
"Tricks of the Trade" for shop use. Rules and data for esti-
mating radiation and cost and such tables and information as
make it an indispensable work for everyone interested in steam,
hot-water heating and ventilation. It describes all the principal
systems of steam, hot-water, vacuum, vapor and vacuum-
vapor heating, together with the new accelerated systems of
^lot-water circulation, including chapters on up-to-date methods
of ventilation and the fan or blower system of heating and venti-
lation.
You should secure a copy of this book, as each chapter con-
tains a mine of practical information. 367 pages, 300 detailed
engravings. $3.00
STEAM PIPES
STEAM PIPES: THEIR DESIGN AND CONSTRUC-
TION. By WM. H. BOOTH. The work is well illustrated in regard
to pipe joints, expansion offsets, flexible joints, and self-contained
sliding joints for taking up the expansion of long pipes. In fact,
the chapters on the flow of Steam and expansion of pipes are most
valuable to all steam fitters and users. The pressure strength of
pipes and method of hanging them is well treated and illustrated.
Valves and by-passes are fully illustrated and described, as are
also flange joints and their proper proportions. Exhaust heads
and separators. One of the most valuable chapters is that on
superheated steam and the saving of steam by insulation with
the various kinds of felting and other materials, with comparison
tables of the loss of heat in thermal units from naked and felted
steam pipes. Contains 187 pages. $2.00
STEEL
AMERICAN STEEL WORKER. By E. R. MARKHAM.
The standard work on hardening, tempering and annealing steel
of all kinds. A practical book for the machinist, tool maker or
superintendent. Shows just how to secure best results in any
case that comes along. How to make and use furnaces and case
harden; how to handle high-speed steel and how to temper for all
classes of work. $2.50
HARDENING, TEMPERING, ANNEALING, AND
FORGING OF STEEL. By J. V. WoomvoKTii. A new
containing special directions for the successful hardening and
ring of all steel tools. Milling ctxtters, taps, thread dies,
reamers, both solid and shell, hollow mills, punches and dies,
and all kinds" of sheet-metal working tools, shear blades, saws,
fine cutlery and metal-cutting tools of all descriptions, as well
as for all implements of steel both large and small, the simplest,
and most satisfactory hardening and tempering processes are
presented. The uses to which the leading brands of steel may be
adapt. isely presented, and their treatment for work-
ing under different conditions explained, as are also the special
methods for the hardening and tempering of special bra-nd*.
320 pages, 250 illustrations, I3«00
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE-
CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by GARD-
NER D. Hiscox. The most valuable techno-chemical Receipt
book published, giving, among other practical receipts, methods
of annealing, coloring, tempering, welding, plating, polishing
and cleaning steel. See page 24 for full description of this book.
83.00
WATCH MAKING
HENLEY'S TWENTIETH CENTURY BOOK OF RE-
CEIPTS, FORMULAS AND PROCESSES. Edited by
GARDNER D. Hiscox. Contains upwards of 10,000 practical
formulas including many watchmakers' formulas. $3.00
WATCH-MAKER'S HANDBOOK. By CLAUDIUS SAUNIER.
No work issued can compare with this book for clearness and
completeness. It contains 498 pages and is intended as a work-
shop companion for those engaged in Watchmaking and allied
Mechanical Arts. Nearly 250 engravings and fourteen plates
are included. $3.00
WIRELESS TELEPHONES
WIRELESS TELEPHONES AND HOW THEY WORK.
By JAMES ERSKINE-MURRAY. This work is free from elaborate
details and aims at giving a clear survey of the way in which
Wireless Telephones work. It is intended for amateur workers
and for those whose knowledge of Electricity is slight. Chap-
ters contained: How We Hear — Historical — The Conversion of
Sound into Electric Waves — Wireless Transmission — The Pro-
duction of Alternating Currents of High Frequency — How the
Electric Waves are Radiated and Received — The Receiving
Instruments — Detectors — Achievements and Expectations —
Glossary of Technical Words. Cloth. 81.00
Henley's Twentieth Century
Book of
Recipes, Formulas
and Processes
Edited by GARDNER D. HISCOX, M.E.
Price $3.00 Cloth Binding $4.00 Half Morocco Binding
Contains over 10,000 Selected Scientific, Chemical,
Technological and Practical Recipes and
Processes, including Hundreds of
So-Called Trade Secrets
for Every Business
THIS book of 800 pages is the most complete Book of
Recipes ever published, giving thousands of recipes
for the manufacture of valuable articles forevery-day
use. Hints, Helps, Practical Ideas and Secret Processes
are revealed within its pages. It covers every branch of
the useful arts and tells thousands of ways of making
money and is just the book everyone should have at his
command.
The pages are filled with matters of intense interest and
immeasurable practical value to the Photographer, the
Perfumer, the Painter, the Manufacturer of Glues, Pastes,
Cements and Mucilages, the Physician, the Druggist, the
Electrician, the Brewer, the Engineer, the Foundryman,
the Machinist, the Potter, the Tanner, the Confectioner,
the Chiropodist, the Manufacturer of Chemical Novelties
and Toilet Preparations, the Dyer, the Electroplater,
the Enameler, the Engraver, the Provisioner, the Glass
Worker, the Goldbeater, the Watchmaker and Jeweler,
the Ink Manufacturer, the Optician, the Farmer, the Dairy-
man, the Paper Maker, the Metal Worker, the Soap Maker,
the Veterinary Surgeon, and the Technologist in general.
A book to which you may turn with confidence that you
will find what you are looking for. A mine of informa-
tion up-to-date in every respect. Contains an immense
number of formulas that every one ought to have that are
not found in any other work.
SIXTH EDITION JUST PUBLISHED
MACHINE SHOP ARITHMETIC
By COLVIN- CHENEY
145 Pages Price, 50c. Bound in Cloth
THIS is an arithmetic of the things you have to do
with daily. It tells you plainly about : how to
find areas of figures — how to find surface or
volume of balls or spheres — handy ways for calcula-
ting— about compound gearing— cutting screw threads
on any lathe — drilling for taps — speeds of drills,
taps, emery wheels, grindstones, milling cutters, etc.
— all about the Metric system with conversion tables— ^
properties of metals — strength of bolts and nuts--
decimal equivalent of an inch. All sorts of machine
shop figuring and 1001 other things, any one of which
ought to be worth more than the price of this book to
»u, as it saves you the trouble of bothering the
is.
This is one of the most popular Mechanical books
in print. It contains the greatest half a dollar's worth of
information ever put between the two covers of a book.
Treats on everything relating to Machine Shop figuring.
JUST PUBLISHED
GASOLINE~ENGINES
Their Operation, Use and Care.
BY A. HYATT VERRILL.
The Simplest, Latest and Most Comprehensive
Popular work published on Gasoline Engines
320 PAGES. 150 ILLUSTRATIONS.
PRICE, $1.50.
Describing what the Gasoline Engine is; its con-
struction and operation ; how to install it ; how
to select it ; how to use it and how to remedy
troubles encountered. Intended for Owners,
Operator and Users of Gasoline Motors of all
kinds.
This work fully describes and illustrates the
various types of Gasoline Engines used in Motor
Boats, Motor Vehicles and Stationary Work.
The parts, accessories and appliances are de-
scribed, with chapters on ignition, fuel, lubrica-
tion, operation and engine troubles. Special
attention is given to the care, operation and re-
pair of motors with useful hints and suggestions
on emergency repairs and make-shifts.
A complete glossary of technical terms and an
alphabetically arranged table of troubles and
their symptoms form most valuable and unique
features of this manual. Nearly every illustra-
tion in the book is original, having been made by
the author. Every page is full of interest and
value. A book which you cannot afford to be
without.
THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO.,
132 NASSAU ST., NEW YORK.
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA
BRANCH OF THE COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE
THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW
«Y17'56
JUNl
SEP 11 me
OCT3 REC'D
MAY l 0 1979
RECEIVED
JUN 1
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA DAVIS
3 1175016909270
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