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SCENES IM HAWAII.
Q.TtiVty
SCENES IN HAWAII
OR
I^FE \\M SANDWICH ISLANDS
BY
M FORSYTH GRANT.
TORONTO:
HART & CDMPflNY,
31 & 33 KING ST., WEST.
1888.
Entered according to Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year of our Lord
one thousand eight hundred and eighty-eight, by Hart & Company, in
the office of the Minister of Agriculture.
To My Husband.
PREFACE.
As I have been induced by kind friends to give
publicity in this form to my notes and observations
while on my journey to Hawaii and stay there, I
must ask them and others who may care to
read them, to be lenient in criticism, and to remem-
ber my only wish is to interest by telling them a
little of this small Kingdom in the Pacific, generally
known only as the most encouraging exemplification
of the noble efforts of missionaries to civilize and
christianize a savage and voluptuous race. Alas,
for this, the finest example of self-sacrificing men
and women, for the boast is, sad to say only a
boast ; and alas, as the group of Islands which
Captain Cook discovered in 1776 — and on one of
which, Hawaii — he was murdered on his second
visit in 1778, at Kealakekua Bay.
On Captain Cook's first visit his large ships and
cannon so worked on the natives superstitious minds
that they regarded him as a god, he and his crews
were given everything they desired. On his visit
in 1778, being struck by a stone or spear, he gave a
cry of pain which not agreeing with the native idea
X. PREFACE.
of a god, they immediately murdered him. The
spot is marked by a granite monument brought by
a man-of-war from England.
'b 1
The Hawaiian Kingdom formerly known as the
Sandwich Islands, lies between the 20th and 22nd
degrees of latitude, a group of seven inhabited
Islands, viz : — Oahu, on which is Honolulu, the
Capital and seat of Government ; Hawaii, the
largest, on which are active the Volcanoes ; Maui,
Lanai, Kauai, -Nihau, and Molokai, on which is
the leper settlement. It is now of some importance
from its position, owing to the anxiety of many
nations to possess it as a strong strategetical point
and their consequent jealousies. It is about 2000
miles from San Francisco, and 4000 from Aukland.
in the direct route to Australia from North America.
Its independence was guaranteed in 1847 by Eng-
land and France, and the year following the United
States joined them ; as two of these nations regard
treaties as binding, the Hawaiian Kingdom is likely
to retain its independence, unless war in Europe
overthrows the balance of Power, or to the time
Seward thought of when he said " The Pacific
Ocean is destined to become the theatre of the
world's greatest events."
PREFACE. XI.
The cable between British Columbia and Aus-
tralia, for which soundings are now being made,
will bring into notice Honolulu, near which is to
be a landing station for the cable; or, perhaps , a
rise in sugar may again make prominent her fertile
lands.
The Government is carried on by King, Lords
and Commons — Lords arid Commons meeting and
voting together in one Legislative Hall with
a Cabinet of five to advise His Majesty—His
Majesty had the power, by the Constitution, of
vetoing any Bills his faithful Commons sent him,
lately much curtailed. When I was in Hawaii the
King practically controlled all measures or rather
the power behind the throne, for the King, though
well educated and intelligent, was credited with
the Hawaiian trait of extreme indifference to
matters of importance, or matters of any kind,
if they in anyway interfered with his own personal
comfort.
The population is about 80,000, of which the
natives number some 35,000, Chinese 20,000,
Portugese and Japanese 15,000, the rest British
subjects, many of them Canadians ; United States
subjects ; German, French, Danish, Swedish and
Xll. PREFACE,
other nations subjects with a few South Sea Is-
landers. The native race is fast dying out. A
century ago their number was estimated at
400,000 ; this is due, without doubt to the taste
for strong waters given to them by their white
friends, as well as the germs of the horrible leprosy
which is now so imbued in their blood that all
are tainted.
In the hope that these few pages which have
been reprinted in part from the columns of the
" Week," may amuse and interest, I venture to
send forth my little book, trusting that it may give
something of the pleasure to my readers, that it
has given me to write it. M. F. G.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
San Francisco.— Chinese.— "The Australia."— His Hawaiian
Majesty. — English cricketers — The invalid.— First glimpse
cf Honolulu. — Kalakua's reception. — Young swimmers. —
The natives. — Tax for residents. — Royal Hotel. — Mos-
quitoes. — Persian Powder. — Sunday in Honolulu. —
Flowers.— St. Andrew's Cathedral I
CHAPTER II.
Welcome to the King. — Procession in palace grounds. — Danc-
ing girls. — Fire brigade.— Concert in opera house. —
Hawaiian band and Herr Berger. — Moonlight in Hono-
lulu. — Expedition up the Pali. — Riding party. — Waikiki.—
Luncheon party at the Kings. — Her Majesty Queen Kap-
iolani. — Leis. — Old Wahine with fish. — Tabu. — Hawaiian
curiosities at the palace. — Feather rebes. — Kahilis. — Queen
Kapiolani's gift to Queen Victoria 14
CHAPTER III.
The yacht " Wanderer. "—Mr. Lamberts' invitation to Queen
Emma. — Poi. — Taro patches. — Method of making poi. —
Method of eating it.- Excellent food.— Poi dogs.— Taro
flour. — Chinese making poi 31
XIV CONTENTS.
CHAPTER IV.
Voyage between Honolulu and Ranai. — Home at Rapaa: —
Arrival at Kilavvee. — " Wailele Hale." — Garden there. —
Different Fruits. — Mowers. — Trees. — Variety of colour in
Landscape 37
CHAPTER V.
Servants ! — Chinese Family. — Mary Mahoi. — Ah Sam and his
Pretty Bride. — Portugese. — Da Souza. — German Servants.
Ah See and his Antics. — Chinese New Year. — "Salt
Eggs." — Opium Smoking. — Hing Hoi and his Music ! —
Sin Fat. — Chinese Gamblers. — Theives. — Scribblings. —
Decorations. — Japanese Servants 52
CHAPTER VI.
Rides and drives about Kilauea. — Kalikiwai Valley. — Valley ol
Hanalei. — After glow of Sunset. — Swarm of Red Fish. —
Death of the last of the Karumehamahas Queen Emma. . . 71
CHAPTER VII.
Volcano of Mauna Loa. — Visit to Crater and Burning Lake. —
Superstition of Natives. — Like-like dies.— Superstitions
about Deaths. — Lomi— lomi. — Awa Root. — Intoxicating
Beverages. — Old Native. — Natives Riding. — Breaking
Horses. — Leprosy. — Molokai. — Father Damien. — Old
Leper at Kilauea 82
CHAPTER VIII.
Invitation to King Kalakua's Coronation. — Drive to Kealia and
Kapaa. — The Parsonage. — Home at Lihue. — Honolulu
again. — Ship in harbour. — Flowers. — Carriages. — Coron-
ation Day. — Coronation Ceremonies. — Coronation Ball. —
Queen leaving the Palace. — Coronation Fireworks. —
Hookups. — Grand Luau. — The Dandy and his Dancers. —
Races at Waikiki. — Unveiling of the statute of the great .
Kammehameha 99
CONTENTS. XV
CHAPTER IX.
Life on a Plantation. — Work in the Cane "Fields'. — Labourers.
— Chinese. — Portugese. — South Sea Islanders. — Looking
after the Labourers. — Holidays on the Plantations. — The
Doctor's Orders. — Chinese with Sickness. — Visit of H. B.
M. S. " Constance" 140
CHAPTER X.
Opening of the Legislature in Honolulu. — Ceremony.— The
Debate. — The Wonderful Interpreter. — News Flies Fast.
My First and ouly Scorpion. — Other Insects.— Visit to the
Market. — Climate. — Amusements. — Easter Decorations. —
Queen Kapiolani gives Teas l rr
CHAPTER XI.
An interesting episode. — Johnnie. — Kealia House. — Pic-nic up
the Waialua.— Koloa.— The Judge's Home.— Mrs. Sinclair
and Family.— Ideal Life. -Waimea River.— Kekaha.—
Visit there.— Lepers at Waimea.— Cane at Kekaha. — Old
Kahuna. — Blue Lake at Kekaha. — Barking Sands.
Wachiava Ranche.— Burial Caves. — Hanamaula.— Home
again at Kilauea . ■ j-j
SCENES IN HAWAII.
CHAPTER I.
San Francisco. — Chinese.— " The Australia." — His Hawaiian
Majesty. — English cricketers — The invalid.— First glimpse of
Honolulu. — Kalakua's reception. — Young swimmers. — The
natives. — Tax for residents. — Royal Hotel. — Mosquitoes. — ■
Persian Powder. — Sunday in Honolulu. — Flowers. — St. An-
drew's Cathedral.
H7HE City of San Francisco is said to be the
most cosmopolitan city in the world, and to
the traveller from Northern Latitudes presents a
strange mingling- of elements, foreign and other-
wise. Irish seemed to predominate, the brogue of
of the Emerald Isle being heard in all directions.
French, one hears constantly. Color of every
degree is met in the passing faces, and the
ubiquitous Chinaman pervades the streets, hotels,
ferries, and tram cars, or rather did some short
time ago, for now, like the Wandering Jew, he is
condemned to " move on ! "
Almost all the household servants are Chinese,
and very smart they look, with their silken coats
and white trousers, sometimes profusely embroid-
ered, their long queues hanging down their back
2 SCENES IN HAWAII.
almost to their heels, (I found out afterwards that
the queue is frequently made chiefly of silk or
cotton braid, which is introduced into the plaid,
the natural hair being scarcely longer than below
the shoulders), and invariably with a small, round
silk cap on top, which seemed to be the correct
finishing touch to their indoor dress.
On arriving at the pier, the Mongolian again
appeared, and on board the good ship " Australia,"
bound for Honolulu, we found them acting in the
various capacities of waiters, stewards, sailors, etc.,
these latter very untidy and dirty in appearance,
and always, to me, having a look of surprise on
their impassive, yellow faces, owing in part to the
fact of their always shaving the hair of the fore-
head, except when they wear a fringe over their
brows, a sign of being what we call " in mourning."
What a Chinaman calls it, I do not know, as outward-
ly, he never mourns except at his gambling losses.
The sun was shining in a brilliant flood of light
through the " Golden Gate," as we left the steep
hill of San Francisco in the hazy distance, and set
sail for tropical climes : the soft, warm, air, and
summer-like arrangement of the ships cabins
making one anticipate with delight, the genial
atmosphere we were soon to enter.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 6
Dark complexioned faces in the dining saloon as
well as amongst the crew, shewed the probability
of there being native Hawaiians and Portuguese
down below, besides the usual complement of
white waiters ; they all appeared to work well
together, however.
The Captain, a big, burly Saxon in appearance,
was very kind and pleasant, an immense favourite
on the line, and apparently having plenty of spare
time to give to his passengers, especially as the
passage was a fine, though not particularly smooth
one. The Pacific disappointed nearly everyone in
this respect, as, though not stormy, and the sun
shining brightly, the long, steady, continuous roll
never ceased for a day.
The upper decks were immensely long and large,
and in a few., days, those of the passengers who
could tumble up the companion, managed to do
so, and the rows of sea-chairs were soon filled by
convalescents enjoying the fine, soft air.
There were a number of cabins opening on to
the decks, each door being arranged with a pretty,
cool looking curtain, which blew about in the most
refreshing way, a great boon as the nights grew
hotter.
4 SCENES IN HAWAII.
Now, as to the passenger-list ; first comes
Royalty and its surroundings, for we were honoured
by the presence of no less a personage, than His
Majesty King Kalakua of the Hawaiian Islands,
who was returning to Honolulu after a liesurely
tour round the world, accompanied by his chamber-
lain, Colonel Judd, a fine looking man, son of one
of the early American Missionaries to Hawaii,
and a suite. The King was a large, tall man,
rather too stout for his height, his complexion deep
copper-colour, dark curly hair and whiskers, and
fine white teeth.
The Captain's cabin was beautifully decorated
with flowers, for His Majesty's reception, in defer-
ence to the Hawaiian fashion, and in it he spent
most of the time, rarely appearing except when
the gong sonnded in the dinning saloon, probably
glad enough to keep quiet after eighteen months of
sight-seeing and being seen. For, happening to
have been in London during his visit there, I had
been witness to the way in which King Kalakua
had been hailed as the lion of the hour, and his
carriage fairly mobbed whenever he appeared as
" the king of the Cannibal Islands."
Shortly after leaving San Francisco, I was intro-
duced (or presented ! ) to His Majesty, and he was
SCENES IN HAWAII. 5
always most kind to us afterwards. His natural
dignity of manner was very marked, his voice
soft, musical, with a slight foreign accent, and his
English, owing to the fact that he was educated
chiefly in California, was perfect. He told me that
when he was present at an audience given him in
Rome by the Pope, he supplied a word in English,
at which Cardinal Mazzini hesitated, doubtless
thinking that a native of the Pacific Islands might
not be a proficient in that language. On the fifth
day of the voyage, officers, stewards, and the king
also, appeared in white linen raiment, and the
Chinese steward in a loose coat and short trowsers
of shining black calico. This latter in spite of his
comical appearance, tempted one gentleman to
wish that he was " dressed like that Chinaman."
Some English professional cricketers were with us
also, on their way to Australia, a jolly, good
tempered lot, adding much to our enjoyment by
their capital singing of choruses, one especially, I
remember, called " My little Yorkshire Lass,' in
which all joined most heartily, sung in the approved
dialect by the stentorian English voices.
A sad incident of the voyage was my casual
acquaintance with a young girl, who, we were told,
was dying of some wasting disease. Her father
O SCENES IN HAWAII.
of high legal standing in Honolulu, was a German,
her mother a native of the Islands. Often in pass-
ing her cabin, where she lay always, I used to peep
through the chintz curtains hung in the doorway,
wish her good morning, and stand to chat with her
for a few minutes. Her face was small, thin, and
yellow ; her eyes large, dark, and very melancholy.
One hand was bound up, and we had heard she
had lost the other, also a foot. Some weeks later,
when she was wasted almost to a shadow, I saw
her again at her invitation. Shortly afterwards
she died, and the suspicion arose that for the
only time during our stay in the Islands I had
seen a person dying of leprosy, that fatal disease
which is surely exterminating the Hawaiian race.
The bold bluff called Diamond Head, which was
the first point of land visible, was perceived early
on the morning of the seventh day. Towards the
afternoon every one who could do so, was busily
engaged in watching for the first glimpse of
Honolulu through glasses of every size, but we
sailed smoothly enough along the shore for a
long time, and were delighted at seeing the grove
of cocoa-nut trees which are outside the town,
and whose graceful, towering tops give a tropical
look to any scenery.
SCENES IN HAWAII. /
Some little distance from the wharf, the tide
was adverse, and the ship had to be towed in by
immense ropes, and during this rather ignominious
process several people left the ship in small boats*
and our attention was drawn by the appearance of
numerous officials who were rowed from the shore
to meet His Majesty on board, who presently
appeared with his suite, all in most fashionably cut
London clothes, high hats, etc. He went about
among the passengers, saying good-bye in the
kindest way, and I should be afraid to tell how
many royal autographs were asked for and pre-
sented. The officials were clad in the most
gorgeous uniforms, all gold lace, cocked hats,
swords, etc., something between a diplomatic and
full dress naval uniform ; and numerous greetings
were passed between the friends who met perhaps
after an absence of many months.
A beautiful gig, manned by natives dressed in
white, wearing wreathes of flowers and leaves round
their necks and hats, and flying the royal Hawaiian
standard, was ready for the King, and in it he em-
barked, followed by his suite in their different
crafts, and in the distance we could hear the strains
of a band playing a welcome to their returned
monarch.
8 SCENES IN HAWAII.
During the time which elapsed before we were
able to land, we were amused by the antics of a
crowd of youthful savages, who had appeared from
the town, and who were swimming all round the
ship, and now and then diving for the pieces of
silver thrown to them by the passengers, and which
seemed all part of the performance to be gone
through with when a ship came into harbour. The
children looked like so many polly-wogs, and did
not seem to mind how far down they had to dive for
a sixpence, bringing it up in their mouths, and yell-
ing with delight every time a fresh one was thrown.
They seemed wonderfully good swimmers.
The wharf was crowded with natives of every
age ; the women, as a rule, tall, walking with a
long, swinging gait, very dark in colour, and all
dressed in flowing cotton garments, called by
them holokus. They all wore straw hats, of
every shape, but the sailor shape seemed to be the
one most affected, with broad, bright ribbons round
them. There seemed to be two modes in the
fashion, one to be tilted over the nose, resting on a
huge tortoise shell comb ; and the other worn more
back from the forehead, and untidy masses of black
locks streaming down to the waist.
The men, some of them very fine-looking fel-
SCENES IN HAWAII. 9
lows, wore blue or white cotton trousers, bright
coloured shirts with buttons the size of a shilling,
and plenty of them ; straw hats, some very small ;
the feet either bare, or clad in high leather riding
boots, with immense Mexican spurs, jingling as
they walked ; the more noise a native can make
with his spurs the much finer man he thinks
himself. All, men and women, wore leis or
wreathes of flowers round their hats and necks ;
some of the blossoms being so strongly scented as
to be overpowering to the olfactory nerves.
The taxes paid, in the shape of a $2 bill, to be
given by each person intending to reside in the
Island, for the support of the Queen's Hospital, we
presently found ourselves at the hotel, a fine, large
wooden building, with beautiful grounds about it
and huge double verandahs.
All the servants were Chinese — no women ser-
vants to be seen ; the Chinaman being equally good
as house-maid, waiter, or cook.
The rooms were comfortable, each bed being
provided with the inevitable mosquito curtain,
made of fine netting, generally hung from the ceil-
ing by means of a rope and pulley arrangement,
which enables the traveller to raise or lower it
according to his requirements.
10 SCENES IN HAWAII.
As soon as daylight wanes, in comes a Chinaman
to pull down the net all round the bed and tuck
it securely between the matrasses, so as to prevent
the fast-coming hordes of mosquitoes from pene-
trating the folds. Strangers have to get accus-
tomed to this piece of daily routine, or, in
consequence, the occupant, thinking he has done
all that is necessary, will be just dozing off when
the fatal sing-sing of the little tormentor will be
heard, and then good-bye to a night's rest till the
murder is committed.
A most valuable addition to one's comfort is a
box of the Persian insect powder, which is prepared
from the blossom of the yellow pyrethrum, which
is brought down from the Pacific Coast in barrels
and sold in any quantity.
A small quantity of this kept burning in a little
tin will deal an immense amount of destruction,
the fumes rendering the mosquitoes perfectly help-
less, and, if burned long enough, killing them in
such numbers that frequently the dustpan will be
filled with them the next morning. A small box
of this powder can be easily put in a corner of one's
portmanteau, and anyone who suffers from the
attacks of these pests should never be without it.
The next day was Sunday, and a walk about
SCENES IN HAWAII. 11
the town shewed it to be quite as pretty in the
interior as it appeared from the harbour. Nearly
all the streets were shaded by rows of trees on both
sides, and the houses, built in every form of archi-
tecture — brick, adobe, wooden and rough-cast, and
all with verandahs, — -were overgrown with Mexican
creepers, honeysuckles, and passion flowers in the
loveliest profusion. The hedges of scarlet ger-
anium and coleus were wonderful to look upon,
and the air was scented with heliotrope and roses
of every hue. There is so little change in the
seasons that many of these flower: bloom all the
year round.
The bougainvillier was one mass of purple of
every shade, growing in a marvellous state of
luxuriance — it is a different looking plant altogether
from that grown in a conservatory, the colour is
so rich and the foliage so thick and massive.
The palms in the pretty gardens were a great
source of admiration, so large were the glossy
leaves, and so imposing in size.
Alamandas grew their lovely yellow bells on
shrubs and trees ; crotons were six feet high, and
the lillies and beautiful red spotted leaves of the
cultivated taro or Calladiums were something for
northern eyes to wonder at.
12 SCENES IN HAWAII.
An effort to find the Anglican Church resulted
in our missing the way and finding ourselves in a
Methodist house of worship, known as the " Fort
Street Church," which was well lighted and most
comfortably fitted with cushioned pews. An ex-
cellent choir was seated on a large platform, in
front of which were the usual arrangements of
chairs, desk, etc., for the minister.
Sitting there, one could hardly realize the fact
that home was so many thousand miles away, but
one had to remember that the month was Novem-
ber, and the light dresses of the many fair and
dark women about seemed to tell us that we were
in another atmosphere, much more like June than
anything else.
Coming back to the hotel we saw a large open
gateway, and wandering in we found that the
Cathedral of Honolulu was inside a large com-
pound, with fine large trees about it and the
Rectory, which was close by. Beside the church
was a school for natives and whites (girls) presided
over by the members of the Anglican sisterhood.
We peeped in and saw a large, plain wooden
building with a flower-decked altar at the far end,
and a surpliced choir on each side of the chancel.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 13
Sometime later, a most ambitious building- was
begun to take the place of the Old St. Andrew's,
and it is still in process of construction. It will be
a beautiful church when finished, and the town may
well be proud of such a handsome structure. The
stone was all sent from England, and the church
will be a memento of the untiring exertions of
bishop, pastor and congregation. We found there
were two native services in the Hawaiian language
besides the English ones. The rector, the Rev.
Alexander Mackintosh generally taking the native
services, his many years of residence in Honolulu
having made him perfectly familiar with all the
dialects of Hawaii.
14 SCENES IN HAWAII.
CHAPTER II.
Welcome to the King. — Procession in palace grounds. — Dancing
girls. — Fire brigade. — Concert in opera house. — Hawaiian
band and Herr Berger. — Moonlight in Honolulu. — Expedition
up the Pali. — Riding party. — Waikiki. — Luncheon party at the
Kings. — Her Majesty Queen Kapiolani. — Leis. — Old Wahine
with fish. — Tabu. — Hawaiian curiosities at the palace. — Feather
robes. — Kahilis. — Queen Kapiolani's gift to Queen Victoria.
TT7HE next day was ushered in brightly and
-*■ noisily, the firing of guns and letting off
of crackers going on without intermission.
The streets were gaily decorated with bunting,
and numbers of arches erected, some of them very
pretty. The oddest was the Chinese one, which
was very large, in the shape of a pagoda, and quite
brilliant in its effect at a distance by dint of lan-
terns of every shape and form, paper flowers of
every hue, and numerous strange looking objects,
of which the " reason why " would be known to a
Chinaman only. On all sides, in letters of flowers,
bunting, etc., appeared the words, " Aloha " —
" Aloha nui " — which is the general salutation of
Hawaiian welcome and greeting.
At mid-day we took up a position near the gates
opening into the grounds surrounding the King's
SCENES IN HAWAII. 15
new palace, which was then in an unfinished state,
to watch the procession, which was to be held in
honour of the King's return. Presently the strains
of the band were heard and the long stream of
natives began to pass, clad in every colour of the
rainbow, profusely be-ribboned, and carrying large
silken banners, gorgeously embroidered and bearing
mottoes in English and Hawaiian ; one of these
inscriptions roused our curiosity, being " Hail,
David," till we found that David was the King's
English name.
One old native, bent and gray, carried a lighted
torch, made of some hard, yellow nuts called
ku-kui, very oily and idflammable, which were
bound together at the top of a large staff. The
custom of bearing a lighted torch in the day-time
is a right belonging only to those who can claim
true descent from the High Chiefs, or relationship
with the royal family. We saw but the one, so
apparently the connection was not a large one !
Without exception, men, women and children
wore leis of flowers and leaves. We followed the
crowd presently into the meadow-like grounds and
sat down on the grass under a tree to watch the
curious sight.
16 SCENES IN HAWAII.
The sun shone down hotly as though it was
June, and the white walls of the palace were quite
dazzling. Behind the palace, a little to one side,
were the houses of the King and Queen, long, low
structures, with wide verandahs, enclosed with pink
lattice work. At the top of the steps stood His
Majesty, attired in snowy white, with his black-
head uncovered, and behind him stood several
members of the royal family. His appearance was
greeted with loud shouts of " Aloha ! Aloha ! " He
made a speech in Hawaiian, and ended with a loud
"Aloha," and then disappeared, the ladies being
seen now and then through the lattice. The crowd
dispersed about the grounds, sitting and lying
under the trees, some eating and drinking, and
each talking and chattering at the top of their
voices, which when raised are anything but musical,
but good nature seemed to reign, and the effect of
the whole mass was that of jolly, dark faces,
flashing eyes, gleaming white teeth, light dresses,
and brilliant flowers, making a bright, tropical-like
picture never to be forgotten.
In the evening, we returned to the palace
grounds, where the crowd was more dense than
even in the morning, especially in the vicinity of
SCENES IN HAWAII. 17
the King's house, the verandahs and surrounding
trees being brilliantly lit up.
We noticed a group of girls standing together
dressed somewhat differently from others. They
appeared to have white holokus on, but instead of
being long and flowing, these were drawn up
through a girdle of sweet-smelling leaves, forming
a short, full skirt, their arms and feet were bare,
with curious fur-like anklets, their hair hanging
down with wreaths of flowers and leaves amongst
it. These were the dancing girls, professional
dancers, who were to perform during the evening
for the amusement of the King and his friends.
There was a procession of some fire engines
going on, and they filed in and passed before the
King, who is intensely interested in the Honolulu
Fire Brigade, rendering great service himself on
many occasions. The Chinese have a very good
engine amongst others.
Later in the week we were asked to go to a
concert to be given on the occasion of opening the
Royal Opera House, and of course we accepted the
invitation gladly. The British vice-consul had
kindly given us seats in his box, from which we
had an excellent view of the whole house, including
the royal box, which was opposite.
18 SCENES IN HAWAII.
The concert itself was a good amateur one ;
no natives taking part in the programme.
One beautiful contralto voice thrilled the audi-
ence with the pathetic strains of " Three Fishers,"
and there was some unusually good playing on
the piano.
The house is a pretty one, fitted up in bright
crimson, and well lighted. Only two boxes, but
both very large ; in the one opposite was His
Majesty, and his sisters, Princesses Lydia Lillio-
kalani, and Like-like, both very dark, and in even-
ing dress. I could not help recalling the occasion
of seeing King Kalakua in Her Brittannic Majesty's
box at Covent Garden a few months before, where
he had been watched with great interest by a
London audience, listening to the great Diva.
Honolulu boasts, and rightly, of a most excellent
band, composed entirely of natives, led and taught
by a German band-master, whose untiring energy
has brought out a great deal of musical Hawaiian
talent. I always regarded Herr Berger, as the
most wonderful man in Hawaii ; when one knows
the difficulty of inducing a native to stick to
any one duty, one can only marvel at the patience
and tact he must have possessed and exercised
to attain the result he has. Not knowing the
SCENES IN HAWAII. 19
Hawaiian language on arrival, he had not only
to learn that well enough to speak it in an
ordinary way, but he had, no doubt, to invent
words, to make natives understand the use of
instruments they had never seen. Herr Berger
gets out all the new music, and it is indeed most
delightful to listen to the strains of the band,
minded now and then with the voices, which
take up certain parts, and sing them together.
The men's dress was very effective, a combination
of white trousers, scarlet tunics faced with black and
gold, and white peaked caps, which must have taken
their fancy amazingly, as Hawaiians in common
with others of a tropical climate, love brightness
of colour in every shape.
Herr Berger had also composed a national
anthem, called " Hawaii Ponoi," which was ex-
tremely pretty, and rather stately, and was played
at the royal entrance, and at the conclusion of
a programme.
Every Saturday afternoon the band played in the
pretty gradens of Emma Square, so named after
the well known and well loved Queen Dowager;
and sometimes moonlight nights would be render-
ed even more lovely in the Hotel grounds, by the
band playing in a pavillion erected for them there
20 SCENES IN HAWAII.
Honolulu by moonlightjs indeed a <% dream of
beauty," sitting on the verandah of the hotel with
the palms, ferns, flowering shrubs,, and tall, feathery
trees all silvered over, and the mountain throwing
uncertain shadows, one felt that to be in a tropical
country was a very charming experience.
This mountain seemed to rise almost immedi-
ately behind the town, and the lights and shadows
were ever varying, now deep purple in the morning,
growing brighter as the day wore on, until the
setting sun made the peaks glow with roseate hues,
and then fading with the rapidly descending,
tropical twilight, and again bursting out with a
new, soft beauty in the brilliant moonlight.
The excursion up this Pali or mountain was a
very beautiful one ; we were invited to join a
large party going up to the point of view, and
one fine morning had a delightful expedition.
Many of the young people were on horseback,
and to witness perfect enjoyment, one has to see
a Honolulu riding party ; how they enjoy it ?
and how, oh how, they scamper! up hill, and down
hill, anywhere and everywhere at full canter, with
the reins held in a fashion mainly peculiar to
themselves, very far out to one side, whips going —
SCENES IN HAWAII. 21
spur often too. It was our first sight of a young
lady riding astride like the natives ; I got used
to it by seeing it so often afterwards, but never
could like it — I think it is too ungraceful a position
for a white woman ever to become it, though we
saw many excellent riders.
We mounted up, up, slowly enough at the last,
until apparently not very far from the top, got out
of the carriages, the young folks dismounting and
tying up their horses, turned a corner of the road,
and then, what a view from the bend of the hill
before the path descended into the valley, lay before
us. The sea was rolling calm and blue beyond,
and between, were rice plantations with their tender
green showing against the darker foliage of trees
surrounding the white houses gleaming in the
sunlight.
The coast-line bounded all this colour, and the
dark, rugged background of the Pali made a beau-
tiful picture, especially favoured as we were with a
day of glorious sunshine and cool breezes.
Shortly after our arrival in the capital we were
bidden to a luncheon party at Waikiki, a suburb
about two miles from Honolulu, where King Kala-
kua has a pretty little country house, to which he
22 SCENES IN HAWAII.
was very fond of resorting for a change from the
affairs of state, and we were very much pleased to
aecept the kind invitation.
It was a lovely summer-like day as we drove
down with Her Brittanic Majesty's Commissioner,
who was always a most kind friend to us, and who
was going to the luncheon also.
The drive itself was most enjoyable ; out of the
town, past beautiful palm groves, houses fairly em-
bowered (I never realized the real meaning of that
word till I saw Honolulu) in flowering shrubs and
luxuriant creepers of all kinds, then through a rice
plantation, along the sea-shore, with a magnificent
grove of cocoa-nut palms towering their graceful
heights on the other side of us, and finally turning
in through a garden, we found ourselves in front of
a pretty wooden house, painted white, with upper
and lower green verandahs. On the steps stood
the King to receive us, attired as usual in snowy
white, with a big lei of yellow blossoms round his
straw hat and another about his neck. His
Majesty welcomed us most kindly, and then we
were taken into a pretty drawing room and pre-
sented to Queen Kapiolani, a large, rather stout,
woman, with a fine mass of jet black hair, dressed
SCENES IN HAWAII. 23
in a handsome dress of fawn coloured silk with a
long train. The Queen did not speak English at
all, but understood it fairly well, and, at all events
made up for that by her cheery smile of welcome,
shake of the hand, and most hearty " Aloha." She
held a number of leis of sweet smelling flowers in
her hand, which she presently gave to us, and we
were each finally decorated with these indispensable
additions to a native feast or party. The flowers
are nearly always pulled off the stalk close to the
head and strung together on some fine grass, the
long ends of which are left to tie the lei on ; if the
blossoms are small, several strings are put together,
thus, mine on that occasion was made of the unopen-
ed buds of the white jessmine and the six or eight
threads of the blossoms made up a lovely mass of
odorous ivory beads ; others were of the yellow
ginger, roses, marigolds, etc. The custom is a
graceful pretty one, and with the ladies' light
summer dresses they always looked well, but with
a gentleman's conventional attire of morning dress
they looked out of keeping, and those unfortunates
who disliked the strong perfume, generally con-
trived to get rid of the leis as soon as possible.
The dining-room was a good-sized room, exceed-
ingly pretty, with walls and ceilings painted white
24 SCENES IN HAWAII.
and pink, the latter being made something like the
roof of a tent ; matting on the floors, cane furniture
and lace curtains, made up a " harmonious whole."
The luncheon table was covered with flowers, and
everything was most tastefully prepared. Curry,
made of shrimps, which abound among the rocks,
and flavoured with cocoa-nut, was served in the
middle of the menu, and the rice, limes and chutney
of mangoes, served separately, as the proper accom-
paniments. The curry, by the -way, was pro
nounced by one of the guests as being the best he
had ever tasted out of India. Another dish which
seemed to find favour with the gentlemen, was com-
posed of caviare spread on small delicate biscuits,
and on the top of each, a fresh raddish nicely pre-
pared. Ices were served in small bowls of Japanese
lacquer work, and magnificent fruits concluded
the repast. Afterwards we all adjourned to the
garden, where, while sitting under the cocoa palms,
with the rolling of the Pacific heard close to us,
coffee and cigarettes were brought. The lovely
warmth of the day, and the soft air made it very
hard to realize that it was the middle of November.
Truly, life in the tropics has charms of its own,
when one thinks of the cold north-east blasts in
contrast. Amongst the friends gathered at lun-
SCENES IN HAWAII.
cheon that day were Mr. and Mrs. Lambert, whose
splendid steam yacht was then in harbour, I believe
then the largest afloat, and which naturally created
great interest, though the " Sunbeam " had been a
former visitor to Honolulu some years previously.
Mr. Lambert's anecdotes were always amusing, and
while listening to some of his stories, we were sud-
denly aware of the presence of an old native woman
crawling across the grass on her knees, holding
a dish of freshly-caught fish of the most extra-
ordinarily brilliant colours. They reminded me of
some I had once seen in Bermuda, but these were
even more wonderful in their opaline hues. The
wizzened old creature held up the dish in front of
the King, still crouching at his feet, and we
all admired with the genuine admiration of
strangers. At a nod from His Majesty, she fell
almost fiat on her chest and writhed (there is no
other word to express her motions) out of the
garden laughing and chattering to herself. The
servants were all natives, and probably friends, who
would see that the old woman did not go away
unrewarded. In old times no one could approach
a high chief except by crawling, and in addition,
had to take the risk of finding him in good humour.
If in a bad temper and the chief chose to move so
26 SCENES IN HAWAII.
that his shadow fell on the person approaching,
that person, be it he or she, became tabu, which
signifies more than our word taboo, for tmce falling
under tabu meant not only being shunned, but not
allowed to touch anything belonging to others, and
to live how they could, on what they could, apart
from all. If the chief happened to be in a very bad
humour he would order the tabued creature to be
killed. Instant death followed such an order.
Mr. Lambert had an artist friend with him on
board the yacht who had wished to sketch some of
these rainbow-colored fish, but I imagine the vivid
hues would have faded before they could have been
transferred to canvas.
On taking our leave, the King said he was then
going into the town to shew Mr. and Mrs. Lambert
some ancient Hawaiian curiosities which were at
the palace, and most kindly invited us to accom-
pany them. We considered ourselves most fortunate,
as now-a-days, unless in the houses of the high
chiefs, one cannot see any good native work.
Accordingly we drove back to the town behind
His Majesty's carriage, and in a short time drew up
in front of the lattice-worked verandah which we
had seen on the day of the procession. The door,
SCENES IN HAWAII. 27
as usual, opened at once into the drawing-room,
and here were the cabinets containing the interesting
relics of ancient Hawaii, and there was a goodly
show indeed. Rolls of the finest tapa cloth, of
which the dresses of both men and women used to
be made, were unfolded for inspection. This tapa
is made by beating the fibres of certain bark into a
pulp, by means of a heavy mallet of wood or stone
on a large flat log, and when pulled and stretchy! to
the desired thickness and width, the pulp is left to
dry in the sun, and when in condition for it, is dyed
various colours and patterns, some of which are
most ingenious. Sometimes Grecian borders; wedge
shaped figures ; round, square and triangular figures ;
dots, crosses, fine lines and coarse ones ; red, black,
fawn and yellow, were the favourite colours, which,
no doubt were made from herbs and plants. The
tapa is seldom or never made now, though in old
days, the malos of the men, and skirts for the women
were made of many folds of the cloth, as well as
coverings of all kinds ; but that industry has passed
away with the arrival of American and English
prints and calicoes ; and the valleys resound no
more to the tap-tap of the tapa mallet. We saw
beautiful calabashes; bowls of elaborately carved
cocoa-nut, shining like ebony, quantities of fragrant
28 SCENES IN HAWAII.
sandal-wood. A perfect model of a native grass hut
quite small, but most exact in each detail, was much
admired, as were also the immense strings of tiny
white shells, only found on Niihau, and which
formed a lei to be worn by royalty. Massed
together, these shells have a curious appearance,
and we were told that when Queen Emma was
presented to Her Brittannic Majesty, her enormous
necklace of Niihau shells created quite a sensation.
The great feather robe was also produced ; and it
was indeed a wonder, as large as a counterpane,
and made of millions of tiny gold coloured feathers,
taken from a small black bird, called the Ooo, under
the wings of which are found only two small yellow
feathers.
These feathers are woven into a fine kind of
twine or fibrous lace work, one feather laid over
the other, each feather only one inch long, and of
the most brilliant gold colour imaginable. This
robe had a broad border of sapphire blue satin,
which threw the gold colour into high relief, the
peculiar lustre being shown to great advantage. It
was a most beautiful and wonderful piece of work
and no doubt took years to accomplish. The very
ancient cloak only worn by the Kammehame has
SCENES IN HAWAII. 29
by the wish of the Queen Dowager been buried
with the last king of direct descent from that line
of chiefs.
The value of this cloak is of course not estimable
in money, as probably the secret of making them
will be lost in years to come, and besides this,
the little bird which used to be in such myriads
in Hawaii, is fast disappearing before the ruthless
gun of the sportsman.
Another ornament of feathers was also interesting,
though perhaps in another way ! This was a
strip of the fibrous canvas of about two yards
in length and perhaps eight inches wide, also
covered with the gold feathers, but with a double
border of bright crimson feathers ; and laid across
the strip at regular intervals, were rows of
shining human teeth ! It gave one an uncanny
kind of shiver ! His Majesty hastened to tell us
of the old custom of which this is a relic, of
extracting the teeth from any chief after death
on the battle-field, and thus preserving them as
a sign of prowess, for posterity to gaze and
wonder at. Perhaps for more reasons than one,
as the teeth themselves were magnificent, as nearly
all Hawaiian teeth are.
30 SCENES IN HAWAII.
The tall Kahilis, or rods of white feathers with
long handles of tortoiseshell, to be borne before the
monarch on occasions of state, also were shown to
us — and after conveying our warmest thanks to
Their Majesties for the kindness extended to us,
we left the palace with a bright remembrance
of one of the happiest days spent in Honolulu.
I have before me now, a picture of the jubilee
gift of the Queen of Hawaii, to Queen Victoria.
It is a royal monogram of large size, formed of
the lovely gold feathers of the Ooo, surrounded
by a wreath or border of gold and crimson feathers,
the work of Queen Kapiolani's own hands. The
monogram is mounted on royal blue plush, set
in a frame of gold, with the Royal arms, and the
arms of the Queen of Hawaii on either side.
The outer border of blue is set with golden stars
of eight points, representing the eight islands of
the Sandwich group Above is the Royal Crown
and cushion set with diamonds. Thousands of
feathers were used in the manufacture of this
gift ; which must have been interesting,- even amongst
that marvellous display witnessed by so many of
Her Majesty's subjects during the jubilee exhibition.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 31
CHAPTER III.
The yacht "Wanderer." — Mr. Lamberts' invitation to Queen
Emma. — Poi. — Taro patches. — Method of making poi. —
Method of eating it.— Excellent food. — Poi dogs. — Taro flour.
— Chinese making poi.
TJ7HE visit of the steam yacht "Wanderer" was
* a source of great pleasure to the people of
Honolulu. Mr. and Mrs. Lambert were most kind
and hospitable in their invitations, one of which we
were delighted to avail ourselves. To my inexper-
ienced eyes, it was as much unlike a "yacht "as
anything could well be ; everything in such stately
order, and room for everything and everybody. We
greatly admired the beauty and convenience of all
the arrangements. The cabins were most charming
little bedrooms, the saloon a most comfortable
diningroom, while the upper saloon was like a
veritable museum, on account of all the curiosities
which had been collected from all quarters of the
globe, and suspended at every angle conceivable
from the walls and ceilings ; delightful seats every-
where, and afternoon tea, made us feel very much
at home indeed. The "Wanderer" was said at
that time to be the largest steam yacht afloat, but
even her capacities were overtaxed, when, on Mr.
32 SCENES IN HAWAII.
Lambert kindly offering to convey Queen Emma
to Hilo on Hawaii, Her Majesty graciously ac-
cepting the courtesy, she sent word that she must
bring a few attendants, and made her appearance
with no less then eighteen followers in her suite !
However, a native can sleep anywhere, with no
other provisions than a mat and a calabash of poi.
This poi (pronounced with a short, sharp accent,
indescribable to those who have not heard Hawaiian)
is the staple food of the native, made from the root
of the taro, I believe, a species of caladium, and
which is grown in great quatities on all the islands.
Anyone can see " patches " as they are always
called, during a ride along the banks of any stream,
or skirting a valley wherein the native loved to
make his home. I say loved, for the once fertile
valleys are now deserted, with only the traces of
the terraces where, in the old days, the taro flourished
in profusion. These terraces are often carried down
the slope of a hill, so that a stream of water can,
by an ingenious system of canals, be easily diverted
from one to another, without any great exertion,
a thing which the Hawaiian abhors with a holy
horror. The root is planted from the stems with
the young leaves, which are first put in mounds
of rich, bog-like earth, and when the root has
SCENES IN HAWAU. 33
formed, are transplanted into rows some inches
apart, the water is then turned into the irrigating
ditches, and the plants left till fit for use. A hill
side covered with a succession of these taro patches
is a fresh cool thing to look at, each patch being
outlined by banks of grass, on which one can
walk from one terrace to another. When ready
for use the roots are pulled up bodily with the
stems and leaves adhering, the young stalks being
boiled as a vegetable called luau, and the old leaves
form a nourishing food for the dearly beloved pig,
which animal plays as important a part in a native
household, as in that of a Paddy ! The taro root
is boiled over the fire which, as a rule is made in
a hole in the ground outside the house, and when
soft enough to have the tough, fibrous skin pulled
off is placed in a large wooden bowl, almost fiat
— very like an ordinary mincing board ; generally
hollowed out of one piece of wood. The natives,
sometimes women, sometimes men, then take up
their position on either side of the board, sitting
a la Ttirque, each with a heavy stone mallet, and
break up the smoking pile of roots into a thick,
heavy paste, in which condition it is called pai-ai.
Before it is to be eaten, it is stirred with the
addition of cold water to the consistence of thick
34 SCENES IN HAWAII.
sago, left to ferment for a few days, until it gets
the sour taste supposed to be correct, and then
put into calabashes, (perhaps one for the general
table) and the whole family assemble to enjoy it.
One often sees a circle seated on the ground near
a hut, at all hours of the day, with a huge calabash
of poi in the middle. Each native, man, woman
or child, dips two fingers, (the more grimy the
better) into the glutinous mass, and with a kind
of double twist gather as much as possible, and
throwing back the he. id, the fingers are placed
in the mouth, and the food sucked off them with
immense gusto. I was anxious when I first went
to the islands to witness the performance of eat-
ing poi, but having once seen it, never cared
to repeat the experiment. It was a horrible sight
to strange eyes, though one must admit that the
rapidity with which the whole thing is done, is
indeed astounding. Poi has all the elements
necessary to nourishment, and is often ordered
to invalids as being remarkably easy of digestion.
Many white people like it much, especially with
salt fish or meat, but they, I need scarcely mention,
eat it in a different manner to the native. Children
consume quantities of poi mixed with milk and
sugar. There is a kind of taro which is pink in
SCEMES IN HAWAII. 35
colour, but which is kept for the king or high
chief's use ; and a friend who travelled much on
Hawaii with His Majesty, told us the poi produced
from it was particularly delicate and good. The
Hawaiians have also what are called Poi dogs,
which are in appearence very much the same as
small white French poodles, these are greatly
petted, fed on nothing but poi, until they are of the
desired age, and then — horrible thought ! are eaten
as a special delicacy, but I must say I never
heard of one English visitor being induced to taste
poi dog, unless mayhap, under false pretences !
There is now a manufactory for making flour
from the taro, which it is claimed will make ex-
cellent poi, as well as cake, bread and blanc-mange,
but it is not so satisfying or nourishing as the
food made from the root itself.
Poi is made by the Chinese, and sold in all
stages by them, a common sight in the streets of
Honolulu being a Chinaman, in his queer, loose
blue garments, legs bare from the knees, and a
big straw hat, bearing on his shoulders a pole at
either end of which, is suspended a five gallon
kerosene tin can, filled with pai-ai or poi,
which is retailed to the native who is too lazy
to make his own food. Passing along the Chinese
36 SCENES IN HAWAII.
quarters one day, I peeped in an open door, and
there' beheld two Chinamen, one on either side of a
huge tin bath, pounding away with all their might
at poi, their yellow skins shining with the exer-
tion, and very little clothing on ; the day was hot,
and the little shop was hotter still, I shuddered,
notwithstanding the heat, and did not envy the
consumers of that poi !
One small taro patch will almost keep a native
in food, the poi being generally made once a week ;
the root is very good boiled or baked, and broken
in pieces, is a mottled purple colour, and is a
standard vegetable at almost every table in the
islands.
SCENES IN HAWAII.
37
CHAPTER IV.
Voyage between Honolulu and Ranai. — Home at Rapaa. — Arrival
at Kilawee. — " Wailele Hale."— Garden there. -- Different
Fruits. — flowers. — Trees. — Variety of colour in Landscape.
CHORTLY after the festivities in honour of
King Kalakua's return were over, we de-
parted for Kauai, " The Garden Island," as it is
called, where our plantation home was. The small,
and then, most uncomfortable inter-island steamer
left at about five in the afternoon, and we were on
board the tossing little boat in good time to watch
the curious scene about us.
Any steamer leaving the wharf at Honolulu is a
source of immense interest always to the natives ;
they are very iond of travelling from one island to
another, and invariably accompany their friends for
a final leave-taking. The chattering and laughing
is also mingled often with the shedding of tears
and wailing, in both of which accomplishments the
Hawaiian excels. They can command tears with-
out any provocation, and it is a most curious sight
to see two old women meet on a wharf, not having
38 SCENES IN HAWAII.
seen each other for some time. They will cry
" Aloha " — embrace in the fondest manner, and
with a jerk of their Holokus (peculiar to them-
selves, and not to be described in words alone), sit
down in the dust d la Turque, throw their
arms around each other's portly form, and forth-
with begin a swaying motion, the tears pouring
down their brown faces, with hats on the back of
their heads from which the black hair streams, and
wailing at intervals, with a long cry, low at the
beginning, and getting louder and louder, till it
finally sinks away to silence, only to be raised
again immediately, in precisely the same manner.
After several minutes' duration the wailing
would stop as suddenly as it had begun ; the tears
dry up, and the much loved pipe, black, short and
very dirty would make its appearauce. One of the
friends would produce the rank, strong tobacco
which is grown plentifully on the islands, fill and
light up, take a whiff or two, and present it to the
other, who would follow suit ; their countenances
clear as if by magic, and presently the old ladies
would rise, take each other by the hand, and march
off together to see some mutual acquaintance,
where in all probability the whole performance
would be repeated. In travelling, they always take
SCENES IN HAWAII. 39
their mats with them, and generally some gourds
of poi. With these they are quite independent, and
on getting on board they at once disappear behind
the curtain of matting, which is supposed to divide
the steerage from the cabin. If the weather be
smooth, they will laugh, talk and chatter most of
the night, in all likelihood playing cards, of which
they are passionately fond. But, generally speak-
ing, the passage is a rough one ; and being bad
sailors, as a rule, the results are not, strictly speak-
ing, pleasant. Cabin passengers are each given a
narrow, clean mattress, and two pillows; to be placed
on deck and one has to make the best of this
scanty accommodation. Meals are served in the
dark, musty little saloon below, but I never de-
scended, even to explore these regions. One could
take fruit, biscuits, etc., and thus be tolerably com-
fortable.
Very early the next morning we anchored some
distance from the low shore, and between the
steamer and wharf there appeared to me to be a
very angry looking stretch of sea. Presently a
large boat was brought to the side of the steamer,
rowed by natives, and a little gangway was let
down for the passengers to descend by. The
Captain jumped in first, and as I grasped the ropes,
40 SCENES IX HAWAII.
wondering if I should not drop into the sea instead
of the boat, which was bobbing about far beneath
me in a most uncomfortable, wobbling kind of
fashion, I felt two strong arms seize me, and a
voice saying, in a strong American accent, "Just
leave yourself to me, and let go ! " which I immedi-
ately did, and was deposited at once on a very rough
wooden seat, with my feet far from the ground ! If
one can use such an expression with regard to a
boat ! The Captain remarked in a tone of satisfac-
tion, " If the lady who sprained her foot last week
in trying to help herself had done what you did
and ' let go,' she would have been all right now."
So my advice to unwary lady travellers is to " let
go " when you are told. An old, rather stout lady,
who had come on another occasion by the same
steamer, happened to tell me that when she was
hanging mid-way between the sea and boat, that
the Captain remarked cheerfully, " Now, ma'am,
you just leave go and skip ! " " But, Captain," she
cried, "my skipping days are over." " Never mind,
ma'am, you just skip, and I'll fix you ! "
We danced over the surf into smooth water, and
on landing found that a large rockaway with a pair
of mules had been most kindly and thoughtfully
sent to meet us by a friend, to convey us over
SCENES IN HAWAII. 41
the fifteen miles which lay between us and our
destination.
But first we availed ourselves of a most hos-
pitable invitation to take breakfast with Mrs. Dole,
wife of the manager of Kapaa plantation, on which
we now were. Their pretty home stood on a high
hill, visible for miles about, and from the plateau in
front of the house could be seen one of the finest
views on the island. Mr. Dole, who had come with
us from Honolulu, preceded us by a short cut, a
bridle path, up which he rode, and we followed more
slowly by a road which wound gradually up to the
house itself, and at the door stood Mrs. Dole to
welcome us. Such a bonnie sweet face, with the
loveliest golden brown hair and fair complexion,
which shewed no traces of the hot sun and salt
winds, to which she had been accustomed all her
life. The house was a large one with a huge
verandah running round three sides, one big sitting
room the width of the house, opening at once at
both ends on the verandah, and a dining room in
the same way ; beyond the sitting rooms were bed-
rooms, some opening only on to the verandah ; the
kitchens were a little beyond the house, as is the
case almost universally ; and a few hundred yards
away were a couple of tiny cottages, each with one
42 SCENES IN HAWAII.
room — a dressing room— and a verandah. These
cottage rooms are generally kept for visitors, and a
most sensible fashion, (when so many houses are
built on one floor), thus ensuring peaceful solitude,
if wished, for one's island friends.
Mr. Dole's hospitable table was a picture to be
remembered ; the fine, stalwart figure and kind
face of the master of the house, the sweet, fresh
looks of the wife, and no less than eight blooming
young faces gathered round. We were very hungry
and did full justice to the good fare, with appetites
sharpened by the see breezes, and in less than an
hour afterwards we had said good-bye to our
friends and were on our way to Kilauea. But
many a pleasant day did I spend afterwards with
them. Nothing could exceed the true kindness
with which we were treated at that house, and I
think we all felt a bitter pang when we finally said
farewell.
The drive from Kapaa was a very beautiful one,
though very tiring, from the number of hills to be
surmounted, or, as they say in Hawaii, " gulches
crossed." The mules galloped up and down hill
and walked on the level, a mode of travel remark-
able to my unused eyes. Fording was another
SCENES IN HAWAII. 43
experience, not pleasant ; the water apparently
going one way and you striving for another is not
the most delightful sensation ; however, we con-
quered all obstacles, and the day was still young
when we turned in at a wooden gate, which was
surmounted by an arch of evergreens as a welcome.
I saw several flags flying from different parts of the
plantation, also in our honour, and in a few minutes
we passed under another arch and drew up in front
of " Wailele Cottage," or " Wailele Hale," as the
natives called it, meaning "House by the Water-
fall." The house was most beautifully situated,
almost on the brink overlooking the Kilauea River,
which rushed down from the lovely fall just above
the house.
The river was very wide just opposite the side
verandah, and looking down the high bank the
ferns and foliage were in lovely profusion.
In the marshy land across the river, at the foot
of the bank was a splendid grove of bannanas, of an
especially good kind, and many a feast did we have
from them.
The verandahs were soon covered with creepers ;
passion flowers of a deep purple colour grew in wild
44
SCENKS IN HAWAII.
luxuriance, as also honey suckle and begonia.vanus-
ta, the last a most gorgeous climber, bearing blos-
soms of a deep gold colour. A hedge of scented ge-
ranium ran up on each side of the pathway to the
gate ; double scarlet geraniums with enormous
blossoms, pink begonias, oleanders all nourished ;
a bed of variegated caladium marked a damp
corner ; shrubs of scarlet hibiscus, and clumps of
the Australian castor oil trees made bits of colour,
and handsome stalks of sunflowers stood up in
all their glory. Tuberoses grew beautifully, mari-
golds of every shade of yellow ; and balsams,
which were unwittingly planted, grew in such pro-
lific quantities that we had to have a periodical
rooting up ; also vincas ; some cocoa palms from
Tahiti, the nuts given to us by a friend, and a tiny
grove of orange trees soon promised well. A
large tree of mangoes gave delicious fruit, and a
huge grove of Oheas gave us the cool juicy moun-
tain apples.
At a distance of about two miles was a capital
grove of lime trees, and one of the favourite expe-
d : tions was a visit to the grove, on horseback, well
armed with saddle-bags.
Arrived there, or rather as close to the valley, in
SCENES IN HAWAII. 45
which the grove was, as we could get, we would
dismount, scramble down the hill, whereon grew
several fine bread-fruit trees, and after many
struggles with the thorn-covered branches of the
lime trees, we would emerge, victorious, and laden
with the green and golden spoil. The limes were
quite as good as lemons, and if they had been left
to attain full growth would, no doubt, have been as
large, but the Portuguese labourers liked them as
well as we did, with the lamentable result that after
a fine Sunday or public holiday (of which there
were many) we would find that our favourite grove
had been well ransacked.
Guavas grew in quantities also close to our
home"; they are a lovely fruit to look at with their
golden skin, and when opened disclose a brilliant
pink colour with dozens of seeds packed close
together. There are different varieties, some soft
and sweet, some sharply acid, and again others,
called the strawberry guava, from its resemblance
in flavour to that fruit. The guava grows on a
shrub of varying height, bearing fruit when very
small ; the leaf not unlike a birch, and the blossom
white, with a scent and appearance akin to the
syringa.
46 SCENES IN HAWAII.
Excellent jelly and marmalade are made from
guavas, as well as other dishes. I well remember
a good planter of Mauai telling me his wife had
sent one hundred pounds of guava jelly, of her own
making, to her people in Norway as a Christmas
present, not a cheap one either, as the express,
etc., was $1.00 a pound.
The papaia tree is another well-known in Kauai,
and we had a number of our own planting. This
tree has several good qualities to recommend it in
a tropical climate. It grows with astonishing rapi-
dity, a plant from seed shooting up in a few months
to a full-grown tree ; the leaves which are long,
with curiously cut-out edges, grow from the tops,
gathering themselves together and springing out in
form not unlike an umbrella tree, with the fruit
hanging in a great clump immediately beneath.
The latter vary in size, the largest being that
of an ordinary melon, with a smooth hard skin,
and slightly pear-shaped. As the fruit gets a
slightly yellow colour, it is picked and in a few
days is fit for use. When cut open in the middle,
the two halves are found full of small round seeds,
which are carefully removed, leaving about an
inch of the yellow flesh, and when these hollows
SCENES IN HAWAII. 47
are filled with sugar and lime juice, and baked,
the dish is a most appetizing one, and one which
never failed to find favour with our friends.
The toughest meat if wrapped in the papaia
leaves will become tender after such treatment,
and a valuable medicine is made from the fruit
itself, which alone has an anti-scorbutic effect.
Aligator pears have a great attraction for many,
these have a tough greenish brown skin, and
the soft white meat is taken out and spread on
bread, eaten with salt and pepper.
Hawaiian oranges are delicious, and a kind
German having given us permission to invade his
kuliana, or vegetable and fruit garden, we drove
over to it, to find orange trees of enormous height,
with their golden fruit lying in heaps which we les-
sened considerably ; they grow wild in many parts
of the islands and bear in profusion. And, can
anyone imagine anything much more poetic in
idea, or delicious in flavour, than honey made from
orange blossoms ? A friend told me that at certain
times of the year, the bees used to gather their
material from the orange groves on her father's
ranche, and that honey was always known as the
" orange-blossom honey," most idyllic, that ! The
48 SCENES IN HAWAII.
bread fruit tree ( I wonder why bread fruit ? As
unlike that staple production of northern climes as
anything can well be!) is a very fine, handsome
tree, with large irregular leaves growing in bunches,
and the round, knotty fruit growing singly. It
must be picked in a certain condition of ripeness to
be eaten, as if left until it is yellow, it falls to the
ground to be found quite decayed. So when it is
desired for the table, a native or South Sea
Islander is sent on a climbing expedition, and
soon discovers one with the proper greenish yellow
hue, a hole is cut in the rind to the required
depth, and filled with salt ; it is then baked, in
the coals if possible, and broken into rough pieces
when dished.
To my taste it was anything but nice, and in
fact I thought I had by mistake got on my plate
some bad sweet potatoes once, when dining at a
friends, and naturally said nothing of it, when I
heard my neighbor remark to our hostess, " Well !
I do think that is the very nicest bread fruit I
ever tasted ! " All my ideas anent the bread
fruit in the " Swiss Family Robinson," were im-
mediately put to flight, and I never cared to
repeat the experiment.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 49
Everything nearly grows almost without care
and culture, and a small amount of trouble will
repay the flower and fern lover in a marvellous
fashion. A few tea boxes filled with fern roots
made a lovely window garden, and for months
they flourished, throwing out fresh fronds as the
old ones decayed.
The tree ferns in the damp depths of the
mountain forest were a wonderful sight, the golden
brown vieing with the brilliant green of the great
drooping fronds ; and one day a Chinaman brought
me a most curious plant, which grows parasite-
fashion around the forest trees. The stalk was
long with rings around it. A huge scarlet cup
of a very brillant colour, had long drooping edges,
which seemed to fade off into a pale green, the
tips being quite eighteen inches in length, inside
the cup were three enormous brown stamen, as
large as the very biggest cigar, and much the same
in appearance ; it was a very curious and beauti-
ful plant. A native told me it was called the ii
(ee-ee), and only grew in warm, damp places.
The only tree which to me had a familiar look,
were some tall, thin tapering yews, or what were
very like them ; at the foot of a steep bank close
50 SCENES IN HAWAII.
to Wailele were three of these trees planted close
together, by an early settler, and their churchyard
appearance was more evident, when I discoveerd
that there were in olden days two graves on that
spot. Certainly the luxuriance and variety of vege-
tation is forcibly suggested by the varying tints of
green in a Hawaiian view. I remember Miss
Bird speaking of this in her " Six months in the
Sandwich Islands," and fully agree with all she
says as to the extreme beauty of the foliage there,
though perhaps no colour but green may be seen
for miles. The ragged — always ragged — leaves
of the banana have a deep green, slightly yellowish
tint; the cocoanut palm has even more yellow
in its feathery tops; the Ohia, or mountain apple,
has the rich green of an oak, the niaille, mangoe,
and lime trees the same ; while the kukui is a
light, almost pea-green colour. The pauliala or
catiJiala (co-ha-la) is, while a sapling very like a
young aloe, the leaves being long, pointed, and of
two shades of green ; in growing it assumes a
curious shape, the main trunk throwing out strag-
gling branches and clumps of leaves, each clump,
like a separate plant, growing at the ends of these
strange-looking arms ; at a distance they are very
SCENES IN HAWAII. 51
tropical in appearance. The koa is an ugly tree,
but the wood is beautiful in appearance, and is
much prized for furniture. At one time sandal
wood was found in great quantities in the Islands,
but from sheer carelessness the tree has almost
disappeared. The magnolia is especially admired
from its lovely white blossoms, set like ivory jars
among the thick glossy leaves of deep shining
green.
52 SCENES IN HAWAII.
CHAPTER V.
Servants ! — Chinese Family. — Mary Mahoi. — Ah Sam and his
Pretty Bride. — Portugese. — Da Souza. — German Servants. —
Ah See and his Antics. — Chinese New Year. — " Salt Eggs." —
Opium Smoking. — Hing Hoi and his Music ! — Sin Fat. —
Chinese Gamblers.— Theives. — Scribblings — Decorations. —
Japanese Servants.
[10 question now-a-days raises much more inter-
est in a household than that of Servants !
Even in the most civilized countries one has to
confront this, to the mistress of the house; important
problem and consider the best way of solving it.
How much more then must the stranger, accus-
tomed to the comfort of the modern " Registry
Office for Servants," feel the weight of this ques-
tion on arriving in a far off land like Hawaii !
where, except in the capital, Honolulu, one must
take what is presented, and be thankful if patience
and temper will alike hold out during the weary
work of training a new : ' hand " or " help " as the
servants were often called ; ignorant of each other's
language even ; and the knowledge that the mere
necessaries of every day comfort must seem to those
SCENES IN HAWAII. 53
to be taught, the most uncalled for and absurd
superfluities of existence.
The large number of Chinese in the Islands, and
the almost impossibility of making the natives into
the most ordinary domestics, render it generally
the best thing to do, to employ Chinamen alto-
gether, inside and outside the house. On my first
arrival at our house I found a family of Chinese
Christians had been provided for my comfort ; they
were considered a wonderfully lucky chance, and
had been living in a very small bachelor household
for some months in the hope of proving thoroughly
competent servants, which hope, however, was soon
dashed to the ground.
The family consisted of one old woman, who was
supposed to look after the poultry, her daughter,
engaged as genaral indoor servant, and her hus-
band, who was cook, also their two small children.
They all lived in two rooms outside the house,
and thought a great deal of themselves, as they
were " Christians," the younger woman having
been brought up by the family of the Anglican
Bishop of Demerara, from whence they had come
to Hawaii.
Ting was the name of the man, Emily that of
54 SCENKS IN HAWAII.
his wife, and I never heard what name the old
woman went by ; Ting appeared delighted to see
me, laughing and nodding a great deal ; Emily
likewise beamed on me, and the grandmother kept
in the distance with the two children clinging to
her, grinning a friendly welcome.
The two women were clad in the short full
trousers and long jacket made of dark blue linen,
fastened with tiny round buttons, common to all
ordinary classes of Chinese women ; the old woman
had a blue cloth covering disposed in folds on her
head and falling about her face, but Emily's black
locks were arranged in a most complicated coiffure,
held together by long silver pins and a big comb.
Both women had bare feet and wore silver or
metal bangles on their arms.
Ting was an excellent cook like many of his
race, and could make most appetizing dishes out of
almost nothing, but his kitchen was best beheld
from a distance ! Emily was both lazy and im-
pertinent, flatly refusing to do any work at all after
two o'clock, and in a few days we found out that
they had been merely making use of the house
given to them, and had been making their own
arrangements to go off as soon as they found they
SCENES IN HAWAII. 55
could not do exactly as they liked ; so we parted
with no very kind feelings, and so ended our one
experience of Christian Chinese, Christian only in
name, I fear.
I had profuse offers of help from the daughter of
the native minister, Mary Mahoi by name, a tall,
stout girl with a very black face and quantities of
frizzy black hair ; she bore a good character, and
I thought I would try and make a servant out
of her ; so I tried and, like many others, failed in
the attempt. She agreed to come at eight o'clock
every morning and stay as long as I wanted her.
At the first visit to arrange matters, Mary sat, I
should say, for quite two hours looking at me, and
saying at intervals in a funny kind of " coaxing
way," " I'm awful glad to come and help you ; "
my ignorance of the custom of being often obliged
to tell a native visitor that it was time to go, pre-
venting me from doing what I thought might hurt
the girl's feelings, and I was only relieved from my
post by the entrance of some one who was more
familiar with Hawaiian etiquette. For the first
three days Mary appeared punctually, and my
hopes ran high ; the fourth morning she did not
come till ten o'clock ; the fifth her mother sent for
56 SCENES IN HAWAII.
her long before her work was done, and after that,
the novelty of her situation having worn off, her
days were scattered over broad intervals, and I was
obliged to own that native " help " was beyond
me ! Mary would go off to a wood close by and
make long wreathes of ferns and flowers and I .
would find them disposed gracefully about the
table and over the toilet glass. One day when I
was in what is called in Island parlance a " great
pilikia," meaning trouble of any description, the
Chinese cook having run off, Mary promised, in
answer to my pathetic appeals, that she would come
without fail ; but not a bit of it ; she never appeared
until three days afterwards, when I saw her in a
dirty holoku and bare feet, coming in the back
verandah looking very sheepish, and on my asking
her the reason of her non-appearance, she replied
her " mother had company ; " evidently their com-
pany was of infinitely more importance than my
wishes, so I gave up the idea for ever of being able to
implant the word "duty" in that direction, though
Mary and I were always great friends, and she wept
freely when I told her we were going away. I took
great interest in her, giving her books to read and
neat articles of attire to put on her fat person, with-
out much effect, however, as all her pocket money
SCENES IN HAWAII. 57
went in silver bangles, rings, etc., which she always
brought to shew me. One day I met her walking
up the plantation holding a large parasol over her
head, which was extremely funny, as the sun does
not exist that a native cannot enjoy with impunity.
Every few months Mary used to bring one or
two hats for the gentlemen, made by herself from
the tassel of the sugar cane, and very light and
nice they were. She had two sisters married to
white men, mechanics, and was very anxious to be
the bride of another herself, but I fear her wish
was never realized.
■
Many native women do marry white men, but
the custom is not so frequent now as it was some
time ago. Chinamen also marry native wives, and
are generally very good to them, giving them ser-
vants, horses and all necessaries of comfort to
Hawaiians, poi, fish, etc. A Chinaman who had
a large " store " a few miles from Kilauea, wherein
he did a large trade in the dearly loved forbidden
fruit of the native, viz., whiskey and gin, married
an extremely pretty half-white girl who was known
as " Carry," and Mary came one day to tell me of
the festivities which were to celebrate the wedding.
The young lady was to be married at her future
58 SCENES IN HAWAII.
home, and the bridegroom was to give a right
royal feast, for which the most extensive prepara-
tions were being made ; a pavilion, or lanai as it is
called, was erected for the ceremony, and vast
quantities of roast pig, fish, cooked and uncooked,
sweet potatoes, poi, all the delicacies known were
to be displayed. Mary's father was to officiate in
the Hawaiian language, as Chinese nearly all speak
that tongue as well as their own lingo.
" And what will Carry wear, Mary ? " " Oh, a
beautiful white satin holoku trimmed with white
Jace, and a long train, all tied back like the Alii's
(white chief's) dress."
" Dear me," I said, knowing the high prices
asked for the simplest dress, " and how much will
she pay for it ? " " Eighty dollars, ma'am," said
Mary, "and Carry has got a black silk holoku
and a red one." " Why, a regular trousseau," I
said. " Has Carry got a lot of money ? " " No,
ma'am," said Mary, grinning to shew all her big
white teeth ; " Ah Sam (the Chinaman) he give it
all." " What, before he marries," I cried. " Yes,
ma'am," said Mary, chuckling greatly at my aston-
ishment, " and Ah Sam he give all the luau too, and
he have Carry's father and mother to live with him,
SCENES IN HAWAII. 59
too." An accommodating husband, I thought ; for
I had seen Carry's mamma, who was a huge, fine-
looking native, not one who would be very likely
to do very much for herself or anyone else. Carry
was quite a picture, as we would meet her riding in
a deep Mexican saddle, wearing a bright crimson
holoku, a straw hat wreathed with flowers, perched
on the top of a small, well shaped head, and a big
lei of leaves round her shoulders. She was a very
haughty looking damsel, and very rarely vouch-
safed a smile in return for our aloha. Ah Sam was
not an ideal bridegroom in his appearance, being
fat and greasy, wearing his hair cut in a fringe on
his forehead and a long queue. He sent me a
present of some chickens at the time of the wedding
(probably repaying himself from my poultry yard.)
Mary having failed us so lamentably, I was
obliged to revert to the services of Chinese, and
many odd experiences we had. Portuguese make
good servants when trained, but there are not
enough of them, and they were good labourers in
the field, so my trials of that nation were few.
A man called Manuel da Souza, and his wife
Jivita were bright examples of thrift, honesty and
eleanliness. I taught Souza easily so that he
60 SCENES IN HAWAII.
became a most excellent, faithful servitor to the
time of our departure, filling up the gaps left by
the many Chinamen, (who would run away at a
moment's notice) with the utmost cheerfulness.
Victorina was a Portuguese of immense size and
strength, and would come and help me when-
ever asked, and has often sent messages through
Souza, (from whom we have heard more than once)
to the " Signora."
Again, a German woman, Dorotea, was a
capital servant, and she was very loth to leave us,
but her husband was determined to try his fortune
in New Zealand, so with many tears on Dorotea's
part she had to go with him.
After Ting and his family had departed, our
next experiment was " Charlie," — a raw hand out
of the fields, but he wished to go back to the field
work soon He spoke very broken English, and
when he had to go off to the baker on the planta-
tion, would always tell me he " was going to get
bled ! "
Ah See followed him, and was with us nearly a
year. A most excellent servant was Ah See, a
funny-looking little fellow, very quick and active
SCENES IN HAWAII. 61
and cooking the plain food attainable, in such a
way as to be really delicious at times.
He had a keen sense of the ridiculous, and I was
always in doubt as jto whether the mistake he
made in his cooking one evening was done on pur-
pose, or as a bit of fun on his part to provoke us.
We were expecting two strangers to dine with
us, and as on these occasions, one has frequently to
depend on what Americans call " canned goods,"
I told Ah See to open a tin of curried fowl and
serve it with the rice, which only a Chinaman can
cook properly. These curries were always in tins
covered with green paper, and Ah See knew their
appearance perfectly. In the storeroom on another
shelf I had put away some half dozen of " cherry
tooth paste " which compound was much affected
by one of the members of our household. These
were white china pots, as unlike the tins of curry as
could well be imagined.
Our friends arrived, and the inevitable beef hav-
ing been removed, I was thinking the curry would
be an agreeable change, and was pleased at the
appearance it presented, when Ah See brought the
dish in, with the limes and chutney all de rigueur,
and put it down with a grand flourish, and then
62 SCENES IN HAWAII.
stood beside his master's chair, with his usual
demure look of attention. I was talking at the
time the plate was put before me, and at first did
not notice anything peculiar, but on tasting - , oh,
horrors ! the first mouthful, it was evident some-
thing was wrong. I turned the mass over, and
looked at it again and suddenly found what ?
" Cherry tooth paste ! " I said with a gasp, " Ah
See, what did you take the curry out of?" He
made a kind of jump to the door, which opened on
the verandah, rushed into the kitchen, and brought
back the empty china pot !
"Yes Missee, yes Missee, you see cully all the
same " — his face distorted by the true Chinese grin,
quite charmed at his own handiwork.
We felt sure Ah See meant the whole thing as a
delightful practical joke, though he would not allow
it, but the expression of his face I shall never for-
get. There was nothing to do, of course, but to
scold and laugh — our friends joining in heartily.
New Year is the great Chinese festival. It
begins with the first moon in January, and every
one who employs Chinese is obliged to give in to
the universal custom, and allow their servants to
go off for three days at least.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 63
One day, the first of the festival, Ah See made
his appearance dressed in the most ultra fashion-
able way. Someone had given him a white linen
waistcoat which he had carefully buttoned over the
white full coat usually worn by Chinamen ; on top
of this he had a wadded garment of blue silk with
large sleeves ; white trousers much too long for
him, were turned up in several folds above his
ankles, displaying the heavy shoes of embroidered
felt ; his head well shaved, and his queue wrapped
neatly round it. But to crown the toilet he had
got somewhere a very high stiff collar which he
was endeavouring to fasten on a refractory button ;
having at last succeeded, he displayed himself
with pride, shewing also a large silver locket which
dangled at a long chain, at his waistcoat, and
strutting round like a small bantam, he assured
me he was, " Allee same as Melican man ! " and
went off beaming with complacency. One day he
brought me a small lacquer work-box containing
some eggs which had a very queer look, almost blue
white, and on taking one up I found it quite
solid. Ah See said they were " Salt eggs," and
" welly good." I gave them back, and that even-
ing the whole house was pervaded with a most
awful odour, horrible ! Ah See had been eating
64 SCENES IN HAWAII.
these salt eggs, which were nothing more or less
than putrid ! The rest of the offensive articles
were confiscated and thrown into the river at
once, amidst wailings and tears from the little
wretch.
We found that Ah See was gradually be-
coming an opium smoker, and one night finding
him trucked up in bed smoking inside his mos-
quito curtains his master took possession of the
long wooden pipe and tin of opium ; he entreated
to have the pipe returned, saying, " He was welly
much flight one Chinaman killee him if he no
give pipe back," and finally, finding his lamenta-
tions of no effect, he brought me three silver
dojlars and begged me to take them, buy some
cigars for the master as a bribe, and, "Then,
Missee, you give him cigars, he give me back
pipe ! "
At last, however, Ah See became such a victim
to the opium, that we were obliged to have him
sent to prison, but, on his trial by the native
judge, was acquitted, as he bribed both Judge
and lawyer alike, though the pipe was produced
in Court as it had been found in his possession.
Opium is the great curse of the Chinese — they
SCENES IN HAWAII. 65
lose their health, are unable to attend to their
work or business, but still the drug has such a
fascination for them that they cannot give it up.
I have seen them with their faces the colour and
appearance of parchment, their eyes heavy and
dull, their hands trembling, and yet the perni-
cious habit is so strong that they are unable to
avoid it.
The opium in the smoking state is like a thick
black paste, with a heavy, sickly smell. This is
lighted in a huge wooden pipe with a long stem
and deep bowl ; a {ew whiffs are enough to pro-
duce the stupor neccessary to the smoker's enjoy-
ment.
Ah See, was, apparently, something of a fire-wor-
shipper, as one morning, when a Chinese feast was
in progress on the plantation, we heard a tremen-
dous cracking and fizzing, and on going out to
enquire into the cause of the noise we found he
had lighted two bundles of fire-crackers, which
were going off in every direction, and Ah See, with
his hands up to his forehead, was bowing and grim-
macing to the crackers, as though they were so
many spirits, and muttering what I supposed were
charms against evil.
5
66 SCENES IN HAWAII.
One servant we had, Hing Hoy by name, used
to employ all his leisure moments twanging on a
musical instrument with absolutely no tune what-
ever in it, but that appeared to make no difference
to his enjoyment.
The last one was Sin Fat, a most excellent,
clever servant, but a great thief, and with no regard
whatever for the truth. He ran away one night,
having bundled up all his belongings while we were
at dinner, and, throwing them out of the window,
he walked off and no policeman or sheriff, white
man or native, could be induced to take the trouble
to arrest him, though we knew he was on the plan-
tation ; so we came to the conclusion, unwillingly,
that his bribes had been especially tempting.
With Chinese servants one has to conform to
the custom of letting them have at least two or
three hours to themselves every day, and these
recreations are frequently employed in gambling.
Chinamen are inveterate gamblers, and coming
through the quarters on a pay day the clink of
silver dollars can be heard all over, with the inces-
sant cackle of the voices, as Chinamen always talk
together.; they will gamble anything, clothes,
trinkets, wages — anything they can get hold of.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 67
They are also great thieves, anything in the
shape of gold or silver is quite irresistible to them.
Sin Fat was left in charge once during our
absence of some weeks, and everything was found
in perfect order on our return ; but a day or two
afterwards a lamp, clock, and mincing machine
disappeared out of the kitchen ; Sin Fat declaring
that " Some man, he come at night, and stealee
him," and always thereafter, made a great show of
locking the kitchen door, which was a precaution
hitherto deemed quite unnecessary. We always
put Sin Fat himself down as the thief, as he
imagined himself free from suspicion ; but, I fear
it was a case literally, of locking the stable after
the horse had gone.
A friend of ours had a Chinaman called Tarn,
whom he thought all the world of, but he was sent
away for opium smoking, and coming back one
day when he knew the family were at dinner, he
broke open a desk and stole a number of bank
notes. Tam was arrested and searched, but nothing
found, till his master noticing a look of anxiety in
his face when they took up an under garment to
shake again, said, " rip it open," which was accord-
ingly done, and the money found neatly sewn into
68 SCENES IN HAWAII.
the fokls of the waistcoat, so Tarn was sentenced to
two years' imprisonment.
They have a curious custom when leaving a place,
to write in their queer hieroglyphics on a door, or
perhaps the wall, any hints with regard to the
habits of the family, they think may be of use to
their successors ; and it is as well to look well
about before engaging a new servant, for these
treacherous scribblings.
During the New Year they have processions to
honour their saints, and on the plantation their
joss houses are trimmed up with long lines of small
flags of every hue hung on top of the roofs ; the
smell of pork cooking is savoury on the air, and the
shop keepers have open houses for the three days.
Those with whom you deal invariably bring offer-
ings of the best they have ; thus, the Chinaman
who had the plantation " store," Kong Lung by
name, sent us always a ham, a big box of Itches
(a kind of soft nut very sweet and nice), a bottle
of vile brandy, jars of ginger, sometimes a caddy
of tea, silk handkerchiefs and quantities of dried
fruits.
They also grow plants of narcissus so as to have
them in bloom at that time, and the china pots and
SCKNKS IN HAWAII. 69
dishes full of the yellow and white flowers, look
very sweet and fresh.
Cards are exchanged then, too, being in the
form of extraordinary black signs on slips of pink
paper, which are sometimes pasted on the doors
as well.
Huge coloured lanterns, several feet in circum •
ference, hang in their verandahs, and all day, and
sometimes all night, will be heard the twang of
their favourite musical instrument, a cross between
a banjo and a guitar, which has literally no music
in it, but which seems to furnish an unending source
of amusement.
Woe to the unlucky ones who have the pleasure
of owning a poultry yard, as for weeks before the
New Year they are infested with human foxes in
the shape of Chinamen, who do their best to
denude the roosts, to furnish their tables with good
cheer for their festival.
Japanese have made their way well in Hawaii
lately, and are extremely liked as domestic ser-
vants. The women look very grotesque walking
on their high clogs ; dressed in queer, bunched up,
70 " SCENES IN HAWAII.
narrow garments, wrapped tightly round them,
and most awkward for moving about in ; but they
are very clean, very clever, and most courteous in
their manner, always doffing their caps when they
meet a stranger, with a beaming smile. Their
living rooms always contain a large platform about
eight inches in height, and on these they sleep, eat,
and sit. Enormous pots of hot water are always
seen near their houses, for their daily ablutions,
which they do not mind in the least, performing in
public.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 71
CHAPTER VI.
Rides and drives about Kilauea. — Kalikiwai Valley. — Valley of
Hanalei. — After glow of Sunset. — Swarm of Red Fish.
Death of the last of the Kammehamahas Queen Emma.
•
COME of the rides and drives about our planta-
tion home on the Island of Kauai (Kow-why),
which was about one hundred miles by sea from
Honolulu, were beautiful in the extreme, so diverse
in their beauty that we never got tired of them, but
always found fresh loveliness to look on and to
remember. Two especially were always attractive
for ourselves and visitors, and many a delightful
day we had taking our friends to the valleys of
Kalihiwai (Kalee-hee-why)and Hanalei (Hannalay).
In the first named valley lived our Chinese
friend, Ah Sam, who had married the half-white
Carry, and who proved such an extremely generous
husband. His house was quite down in the valley,
through which ran a river, meandering quietly to
the sea ; it was deep at its mouth, but at certain
times was fordable just before it curved down to
the ocean. Ah Sam's house was close to the river,
72 SCENES IN HAWAII.
and on the opposite bank another Celestial had
taken up his abode (both kept illicit grog shops),
also with the intention of selling spirits, and it was
said that signals could be given and returned if by
any chance the sheriff and his officers were seen
coming one way or the other ; and thus prevent
trouble, as, of course, neither of these charming
law-breakers had a license to sell anything like
whiskey or gin, in which latter beverage truly the
soul of the native delighteth.
The road down which we wended our way, per-
haps on horseback, perhaps in a pony phaeton
'drawn by a stout little mule, most sure-footed of
animals, was very steep, cut out of the side of a
high hill, a bank of rock covered with ferns and
moss, and streams babbling down like miniature
falls, on one hand, and on the other, the sea rolling
into a curved sandy beach, which formed the mouth
of the valley. At the foot of the road was a stretch
of green turf, of a thick, soft, reed-like grass, called
Mainanea, which grew most luxuriantly near the
sea, and was capital pasture for horses and cattle,
extending a short distance with a few native houses
scattered about, each almost buried in creepers and
mango groves. Having passed these, the ford was
SCENES IN HAWAII. 73
reached, and a dilapidated old ferry was supposed
to be in readiness for passengers, though I can safely
say, I never knew it to be on the side one wished.
At times the river was easy enough to cross on
horseback, but at others the current was very stiff
to encounter, and the water deep. I have often
watched natives urge their horses in, and have seen
them sink deeper and deeper, till at length the horse
would be swimming, with the man or woman rest-
ing their feet on the horse's neck, finally getting
them as high as the animal's ears, sitting perfectly
at ease, and probably urging the poor creature into
a canter immediately on landing.
When we drove to the ferry, the natives were
intensely interested in helping to unharness the
mule, and roll the carriage by means of two boards
laid for the wheels, from the edge of the shore to
the ferry, laughing and chatting at the top of their
voices, probably accompanying us to the opposite
bank, where the performance was repeated. Our
little Canadian-built phaeton, four-wheeled and
without a covered top, was always a source of
curiosity to the natives, and great was their astonish-
ment, as was that of our white friends, when we
afterwards made the tour of Kauai in it, up hill,
down almost precipices, along the rocky sea-shore.
74 SCENES IN HAWAII.
120 miles in all — a most delightful experience
Kalihiwai, bathed in sunshine, was a lovely picture,
the mountains throwing their shadows of purple
and blue down the valley, and bringing out the
delicate tints of the rice patches grown by the China-
men, and finally ending in a glittering water-fall,
like a stream of silver, which came rushing down
the rocks at the extreme head of the valley, making
a vista for the eye to rest upon never to be forgot-
ten, the wonderful tints of green in the thick foliage
contrasting with a creeper of surpassing beauty,
which bore an enormous white bell-like flower, the
sweet heavy scent of which filled the air for some
distance
Mounting a steep hill, which rose abruptly out of
the valley, a little way from the river (always a very
hot part of the expedition), one can see the lovely
little valley at one's feet, with the sea beyond, glow-
ing in the sun ; and when at the top of the hill, the
salt breeze comes cool and refreshing. The road
was very good, and one could canter, or trot on
quickly, with the sea on one hand, and the glorious
mountains on the other, across level plains, with
herds of cattle grazing quietly, only lifting their
heads and staring, apparently, in astonishment at
SCENES IN HAWAII. 75
the strange-looking vehicle passing. In one place
the road made a dip into a hollow, going over a
river, which rushed down there into a quiet, deep
pool, fringed with ferns and ohia trees, and after-
wards found its way into Kalihiwai. Soon, the
plains began to show signs of life, with a glimpse
of sugar-cane fields, and presently we were on the
edge of the Valley of Hanalei. The natives have
a saying, to express the beauty of the far-famed
valley, "See Hanalei, and die;" and one cannot
wonder at their admiration of such a lovely spot.
We left the road, and walked a few steps beyond,
where there is a rough sign board nailed on an old
tree stump, and painted in rude letters, " Crow's
Nest," attached to which there is a melancholy
interest from the fact that Lady Franklin used to
spend hours sitting there, looking with, doubtless,
sad and wistful eyes for the arrival of the then
numerous whaling ships which -she hoped might
bring tidings from the far North of her gallant and
ill-fated husband. Lady Franklin wished much to
have a native Anglican Church built on this very
plateau, and, I believe, bought the ground and gave
it for that purpose, but the church was never built ;
still the interest of the story remains, and it must
always be a true one.
76 SCENES IN HAWAII.
A small plateau ran out a little further, and from
there we gazed on the picture before us. A very
large valley lay at our feet, with a broad river wind-
ing through it down to the sea. On the left, or
Mauka side, the grand mountains, lifting their
heights up till lost in the clouds of mist which rest-
ed like snow-wreaths on their deep shadows ; the
rice plantations, with tender green, below us, min-
gled with the purple tassels of the sugar-cane ; the
picturesque white and green houses, with broad
verandahs and roofs all in one ; the barges drifting
slowly down the river, laden with the cane to get
ready for the mill, which stood almost in the centre
of the valley ; the brilliant sunshine, bathing the
masses of foliage on either side of the river in light ;
the planter's homestead, half-way down the hill,
almost buried in flowers and shrubs of every hue ;
and the broad Pacific beyond all, — made up the most
wonderfully beautiful view imaginable, scarcely
perhaps to be excelled. Unlike Kalihiwai, which
is seen first from its mouth, Hanalei is approached
from the head, making the effect perhaps more
intense by one's being able to see it more suddenly.
On a bright day, when the mists had lifted,
countless streams could be seen, like silver threads,
on the purple sides of the mountains, which added
SCENES IN HAWAII. 77
much to the beauty of the view. After gazing for
a long time at the picture before us, we drove for
a short distance on the level, and then were able to
descend to the river by a broad road, where we
could drive for a long distance, and crossing a hand-
some bridge, could see the fine cane, which in all
stages of its growth is a singularly beautiful crop.
Down in the damp warmth of the valley it was
most luxuriant, as the high trade winds which at
times laid the fields of cane on the plains low in
the red dust, which forms such a feature in Kauai
landscape, were unable to reach the deep shelter oi
the valley.
A great deal of rice also was grown by China-
men in the valley, and when the grain was almost
ready to gather in, it was of a deep golden colour,
and the noise made by the owners to drive the
little rice-birds away from their favourite food was
deafening. Tin cans tied to a revolving pole, bang-
ing unceasingly in the breeze, was considered a
valuable mode of warfare ; added to this, guns
were fired incessantly, and loud cries uttered by the
watchful Chinamen, who began their work at dawn
and carried it on without intermission till the sun
went down, when for a few short hours they were
78 SCENES IN HAWAII.
able to sleep without fear of the rapacious little
destroyer undoing their labour of months.
A sunset at Hanalei was wonderfully beautiful,
as it sank gradually into the depths of the ocean,
the valley's mouth being due west ; and at the time
of the Java eruption the after-glow extended for
miles over the country. The first time we saw it
we were six miles away from Hanalei, and could
see only the ridge of mountains which hid it from
our view. We thought the deep red glare must
mean that there was some terrible conflagration on
the plantation, and were immensely relieved to find
that that terror of the planter, fire, was not the
cause; but our friends told us that as they watched
the crimson glow flooding the sea and mountains
with colour, they were equally sure that Honolulu
itself must be entirely in flames. It lasted for days,
almost weeks, and the natives were terror-stricken,
believing thai: some terrible judgment must be
coming on them ; but as days went on, and no harm
did approach, they, with characteristic indifference,
forgot all about the freak of nature.
The native superstition is very great, as no doubt
all aboriginal superstition must be; but there is
one thing which — one must say so from personal
SCENES IN HAWAII. 79
experience on our own part — is most extraordinary,
and I can imagine that some of my readers will
scarcely credit what I have to tell. As the death
of a high chief approaches, a swarm of tiny red
fish invariably come about the harbour of Honolulu
or his birthplace. At no other time do they appear.
During our stay in the islands the three last great
chiefs of the line of Kamehameha died, and each
time, just before their death, did the swarm of fish
come, reddening the waters till they looked like
blood. The first to die was Princess Ruth (Keeliko-
lani), a woman of enormous stature, and extraordin-
ary plainness of appearance. She had been ill for
some time, and had been under the influence of her
native Kahunas, or praying doctors, to such an extent
that she had made a journey to the foot of Mauna
Loa,on Hawaii intending to be carried up the mount-
ain to sacrifice white chickens and pigs to the burn-
ing lake, thereby hoping to appease the wrath of
the Goddess Pel£; who is supposed even yet to be
the presiding Deity of the Volcano. On arriving
at the mountain, however, it was found that Her
Royal Highness' enormous bulk quite precluded
the hope of getting up herself, so she was obliged
to have the sacrifice made by proxy, sending some
of her numerous retinue to perform the rites; but
80 SCENES IN HAWAII.
of no avail, as some time later she died. Mrs. Pan-
hahi Bishop was the next to follow : she was a half-
white, but on her mother's side was a direct descend-
ant of Kamehameha I. She was a very handsome
woman, and of great wealth, holding large properties
in the islands. She had married a Mr. Bishop, an
Englishman and a banker. Their home in Hono-
lulu was a very beautiful one, with lovely gardens,
and the house itself a perfect museum of Hawaiian
curiosities. Mrs. Bishop's death was almost unex-
pected, but the deadly swarm of red fish came into
the harbour, again the herald of disaster.
The last death was indeed a grievous calamity,
for with Queen Emma expired the last of her race ;
she was the last lineal descendent of Kamehameha
I., her own son dying at an early age. Queen Emma
was adored by the natives, and she might well be,
tor she made herself almost poor by her constant
charities among them ; and she supported many of
them entirely herself. She also had a lovely house
and grounds in Honolulu, but spent most of her time
at a country home down by Pearl River, some miles
east of the town. The queen was a sweet-faced
woman, with a low musical voice, and great dignity
of manner. She died very suddenly, indeed with-
SCENES IN HAWAII. 81
out warning almost, and this time the red fish made
their appearance at Kona on Hawaii, where much
of Queen Emma's early youth was spent; the
natives there being terribly frigthened, not know-
ing what had befallen, until the mail from Hono-
lulu brought the sad news. Her funeral was, of
course, accompanied by all the rite and customs of
Hawaiian royality. Natives came in from all the
islands to attend it, and the wailings were heard
without intermission from the boats as they ap-
proached Honolulu. Her body was taken at night
(after being embalmed) to the old native church
— and lay in state for a week, with the fea-
ther Kahilis waving continually, the bearers cha-
nging every two hours — six walking up the aisle
in step, and changing the Kahilis, so that there
was no intermission even for a moment, and the
native melees, or chants of praise, were sung by
the different choirs and musical societies ; the scent
of the leis and wreaths of flowers was overpowering.
The procession was enormous, and took two hours
to pass a given point — nearly all the natives on
foot — and so passed to the tomb of her fathers a
gentle Christian woman and a good queen.
82 SCENES IN HAWAII.
CHAPTER VII.
Volcano of Mauna Loa. — Visit to Crater and Burning Lake. —
Superstition of Natives. — Like-like dies. Superstitions about
Deaths. — Lomi-lomi. — Awa Root. — Intoxicating Beverages. —
Old Native. — Natives Riding. — Breaking Horses. — Leprosy. —
Molokai. — Father Damien. — Old Leper at Kilauea.
/I MONGST the many places to be visited on
the Hawaiian Islands, the volcano of Mauna
Loa, and the lake of fire at Kilauea on Hawaii
are, perhaps, the most interesting to those who do
not mind a rough voyage between the islands, and
an equally rough journey by land. The inter-
island steamers vary much in their degrees of
comfort, but perhaps the largest and best are those
which convey the tourist to the port of Hilo, from
where one must take horse for a long, steady ride
up hill to the Volcano house, as the stopping place
for visitors to the far-famed volcano is called.
Hilo is the port next in importance to Honolulu,
and there travellers make arrangements for the
ride up the great Crater of Kilauea.
A mule purchased in Honolulu for $150 turned
out a valuable animal ; for, besides being stronger
SCENES IN HAWAII. 83
and more sure-footed than a horse, he was sold for
$25 advance in price at the end of the expedition,
having carried his rider well and thus having cost
nothing.
The ride is a long one — thirty miles — and very
lonely and quiet, the road lying partly through
forests of ohia and ku-kui trees principally, nearly
all covered with a species of creeper, which, as it
grows, throws out branches which have tops like
palm trees, only with smaller leaves. The tree ferns
in this forest were very high, quite twenty feet or
more, most luxuriant in growth, some green, some
brown, others a deep red, and with those half dead or
quite decayed, gave colouring to the mass of jungle.
During the twenty miles one was supposed to get
some refreshment at two " half-way " houses, but
the houses were apparently deserted and nothing
to be seen but a pail of water and a tin cup hang-
ing beside ; a veritable drinking fountain, of which
both mule and rider were glad to take advantage.
The Volcano House was reached in due time, a
comfortable enough hotel, not far from the crater,
which is obliging enough to provide travellers with
excellent sulphur baths, which soon remove all
stiffness incurred from the long ride. The dinner
consisted of shoulder of wild goat, excellent pota-
84 SCENES IN HAWAII.
toes and Indian corn. Wild goats are plentiful
and good game ; the meat when young is tender
and very palatable to the hungry visitor.
From the verandah of the hotel the red glare of
the crater was seen very distinctly through the deep
tropical darkness, and though undoubtedly the best
time for seeing the lake of fire, the guide refused to
take us at night, so a good rest after the' fatigues of
travelling was most acceptable.
The next morning, after breakfast, the guide
accompanying us, we started for the crater, walking
at first through a jungle of small ohia trees, then
in full blossom, bright crimson in colour, mingled
with a shrub called by the natives turkey wings,
bearing red berries, which the guide declared good
to eat ; they were much the same in appearance as
small cherries.
The jungle sloped down, and at the foot of the
bank we came on the bed of cooled lava, and
walked over it to within a hundred yards of the
burning lake of lava, called by the natives Ha-
lemau-mau, a truly grand sight. About fifty
feet off was a hill, or crest of lava, on which the
guide would not let us go, as he said it probably
would give way at any moment, for the lava on
which we were then standing was quite hot.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 85
For more than two miles we had walked on
lava, merely a thin crust over the fires, and liable
at any moment to burst out with fresh force.
About a hundred and fifty yards from where we
stood the guide shewed us a dark-looking hole from
which a fortnight before, an immense quantity of
lava had issued, and only six months before, the
lava had flowed up to the very edge of the bank
which we had come down.
The lake itself, about four hundred feet by one
hundred, w r as of an iron gray colour and here
and there we could see the red hot lava flowing
along the surface ; then a wave would cross, the
sun shining so brightly on it, one might fancy it a
wave of the sea, topped by a red crest instead of a
" white horse." The edge of the lake was all fire,
and on the side nearest to us, at short intervals, the
red lava would be thrown up twenty to thirty feet.
Often it is thrown as high as one hundred feet, we
were told. For a few seconds all would be appa-
rently quiet, and then a rolling wave would cross
and burst into a myriad of leaping fires, shewing
a constant terrible force at work below the earth's
surface. The lake and its surroundings are con-
stantly changing— immediately below us, and on
86 SCENES IN HAWAII.
our right, the lava was quite still, and only three
days ago it was a heaving mass, flowing and molten.
The guide then volunteered to take us to where
he said only three visitors had gone ; so off we set,
and soon stood on the western side within eight
feet of the very edge of the lake itself, so close that
the lava broke off, so brittle and hot was it, with a
slight blow of the pole we each carried. Watch-
ing the gray, sullen mass before us, broken every
few seconds by the leaping flames, thrown in some
instances far above us, one could only feel in the
presence of some terrible invisible power working
quite independently of human agencies. Only a
short time could we stand so close to this " fire
fountain," as Miss Gordon dimming calls it, as the
fumes of the sulphur threatened to suffocate us.
As it was, we were not free from headache in con-
sequence of our venture.
The bed of lava in the crater is quite four miles
in extent, probably more, and specimens very
beautiful in shape and colour can be picked up in
many directions — and some curious material, like
spun glass, brittle and shining, very fine in sub-
stance. It is known as " Pele's Hair," Pele being
the presiding goddess of the volcano, and to this
SCENES IN HAWAII. 87
day the natives sacrifice to her by throwing silver,
or white pigs or hens into the fires, thinking to pro-
pitiate her, and perhaps avert the calamity of an
overflow of lava, which superstition has a curious
resemblance to the offering made by the Scottish
peasants to their holy wells of olden fame, into
which are thrown pennies and sixpences ; formerly
the killing of a red cock was considered a necessary
rite to appease the wrath of the earth spirits.
When any unusual eruption of the volcano takes
place the natives are terror-stricken, believing that
some fresh sacrifice is demanded of the people to ap-
pease Pele's wrath, and in the days of the autocra-
tic government by the great chiefs human lives were
offered for that purpose, and such is the supersti-
tion of the Hawaiian of to-day that a few months
ago the sister of the present monarch, Princess
Like- Like, who had been ill for some time, but who
was recovering, hearing of the sudden stoppage of
the fires of the crater, which then threatened to
burst forth in a terrible overflow of lava, hurling
destruction on all villages between it and the sea,
and believing that by giving her life she could pre-
vent such a calamity, literally turned her face to
the wall and died from sheer inanition, refusing all
88 SCEXES IX HAWAII.
nourishment for three days, and disregarding all
appeals from her physician ; probably her own
native Kahunas had induced her to believe that her
life was a necessary sacrifice. What has Christi-
anity done for these poor people when such things
can be ? The missionaries and church people have
worked hard, but apparently to little effect, when
one of their highest chiefs can think of nothing
better than to yield to one of their oldest super-
stitions. Hanamau-mau signifies " House of Ever-
lasting Burning.
The native superstition is something extraordin-
ary to this day. If any member of a family dies
in the house, it is soon deserted, as they believe
that the spirit of the departed, no doubt in company
with "kindred spirits" will take possession of the
hut, making it uncomfortable for those left behind
in this world of woe.
My friend Mary astonished me very much one
day, with the account she gave me of a luau, or
feast which had been held at the house of a neieh-
bour; it appeared that an old man, a grandfather
of the flock, fell ill, and, as apparently he could not
be cured, the Kahuna ordered a luau to be arranged
in a piece of ground close by. This was done, a
SCENES IN HAWAII. 89
lanai being hastily constructed of young saplings
tied together, bananna leaves thrown across for a
roof, and the inevitable pig being baked in a hole
in the ground, poi and fish produced, the poor old
native, in a dying condition, was placed on his mat
in the middle of the feast, so that one fears that his
end was not peace. Lizards, of which there are
many varieties in the islands, are held in great fear
by the superstitious Hawaiian, and the appearance
of one in a home is regarded as an omen of evil.
A strange coincidence of ancient Hawaiian customs
with modern medical treatment is that of lomi-lomi
as compared with the massage of the present day.
The high chiefs always had some natives in their
retinue whose duty it was to perform this lomi-lomi
when required. After a long ride, or fatigue of an
undue kind, such as the expedition to the volcano,
it is said to be most refreshing in its effect. The
compressing of the muscles, rubbing of the skin,
pulling of joints, all being almost precisely the same
as massage. Also, after a feast which might be
continued for some days, the lomi-lomi was called
in to help to disperse the effects of dissipation.
Medical men frequently ordei the lomi-lomi for
cases of acute rehumatism with excellent results,
90 SCENES IN HAWAII.
and I have seen a sufferer from sick headache having
her head lomi-lomied, hoping to get relief from the
distressing pain.
When the chiefs went on one of their frequent
inter-island expeditions, they had native girls whose
duty it was to prepare the drink made from the awa
root; the root is chewed into a slimy pulp (a most
revolting idea) by these female retainers, then put
into bowls, and left to ferment. It is very intoxi-
cating, but it is still used in large quantities ; and
commands a high price. A kind of whiskey is
made in Hawaii from the ti root, and also a liquor
from the sweet potatoe. A native will however get
tipsy on anything almost. A native boy we had
for a long time, had a great orgie on eau de cologne
once. Perry Davis's pain killer is a favourite
stimulant, and even Worcester sauce if they can
get enough of it.
The old natives had excellent manners, which
have sadly degenerated in those of the present day.
A very old man called Pihi (fish) used to give us a
bow worthy of a courtier, sweeping his hands towards
us with a most eloquent gesture expressive of greet-
ing in answer to our aloha. He was one of the very
few who did not ride, we would meet him trudging
along, up and down the many gulches which were
SCENES IN HAWAII. 91
so frequent between the plantation church and his
home, generally carrying a huge blue umbrella, his
white hair shewing out against his copper hued
face, and bearing the weight of years with remark-
able rigour ; while it is said of the Hawaiian of
the present time that he will walk for half an hour
to catch his horse to ride twenty minutes. They
are capital riders, being inured to the saddle from
baby-hood, literally, as babies are frequently carried
on pillows in front of their mothers.
The women ride astride, with the stirrup held
between the toes, and as a rule have firm easy seats,
and attired on gala days present a fine appearance
with long flowing garments, flying back from their
knees along the horse's flanks, of some brilliant
colour, this latter addition being called a pua, form-
erly nearly always worn by a Hawaiian equestrienne,
but now only affected on great occasions. A crowd
of Hawaiians on horseback coming back from any
holiday rejoicing is a thing to be avoided, for they
ride at a reckless pace, and scatter themselves in all
directions.
Nearly all use the deep Mexican saddle, with
the enormous wooden and leather stirrups, and
their bridles are often works of art. The natives
admire good riding immensely, and my husbnnd
92 SCENES IN HAWAII.
was presented once with a leather bridle made of
round twisted hide, ornamented at intervals with
tufts of horse-hair, a very smart affair, made by a
native friend, and given by him with a word of
approbation as to some feat of horsemanship which
had probably attracted his notice. They value
these bridles rather highly themselves, and we heard
that a substantial offer had been made for the
possession of this special one to the maker, so when
it was given, we were delighted to have such a
trophy to bring away.
Hawaiian horses rarely are allowed to trot, they
have a kind of rocking canter, which they will keep
up for miles at a stretch. Some would make
capital jumpers if they were encouraged, but un-
fortunately their spirit is broken before they are in
fit condition to ride. A native's idea of breaking
in a horse is to tie a handkerchief over the animal's
eyes, have himself tied on to the bare back, and
then tear up and down the road as hard as Tarn
O'Shanter of bye-gone fame, till the poor creature,
trembling from fear and exhaustion, bathed in sweat,
and rejoicing to get rid of his most unwelcome
burden, is ready to acknowledge in his dumb fashion
that man is indeed his master.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 93
The native, pure and simple is really dying out,
and the chief cause is that dread disease of leprosy
which, without doubt has exterminated whole
generations of Hawaiian families. It is very loath-
some and repulsive to onlookers, but to white peo-
ple, the incomprehensible thing is, the indifference
of the native to the most ordinary precautions
against infection. For instance, not far from our
home, close to a fordable river, there was a large
grass hut, in which dwelt several members of a
family, one of which a young lad, was afflicted with
this fatal sickness ; no one saw him in passing, but
he was known to be there. He lay, probably, on
the same mats with others, shared the food, eat out
of the same calabash, smoked the same pipe, they
knowing: all the time that some of the infected
poison might be conveyed to another of their
number. But if by chance the sheriff was known
to be in that district, with his attendant body of
policemen, probably on the look-out for lepers,
the boy was at once conveyed in secret to one of
the numerous hiding-places, in the recesses of the
hills and caverns, known only to themselves, and
the sheriff might look till he was tired, and find
nothing, though he was well aware, that as soon as
he was gone, the danger over for that time, the
94 SCENES IN HAWAII.
sufferer would be brought back to his old quarters
and so the ball would roll on, gathering the deadli-
est of mosses on its way.
The island of Molokai is given up entirely to the
lepers, steamers freighted with these hapless beings
are frequently sent from Honolulu, the poor lepers
being gathered from all parts of the islands, and
great are the wailings, and loud and deep the
lamentations of the families, when parting at the
wharves.
The greatest kindness is shewn by the govern-
ment, and private families, headed by Royalty, to
the inhabitants of this great hospital island. They
have comforts and attention from all classes.
They have churches, schools, workshops, amongst
them, gardens to look after and cultivate for their
own benefit, and the utter indifference of the natives
to the future, makes the living death before them
less a subject of dread, than we might believe
possible. White people rarely get leprosy, but,
sad to say indeed, the devoted and Christ-like life
of Father Damien, a priest who has literally laid
down his life for others, has been covered with the
mantle of death in the midst of his most self-sacri-
ficing work. For years Father Damien has lived
SCENES IN HAWAII. 95
on Molokai, teaching, exhorting, helping one and
all ; and now he has become a victim to the same
disease which he has watched in all its terrible
stages, and so, well knowing the awful future in
store for him, he asks for others of his church to
come and follow in his footsteps, a request which
we hear has been nobly responded to by some who
are willing to try and emulate his saint-like devotion
to these poor people.
The only definite case I had any contact with,
was that of an old woman at Kilauea. Our native
washerwomen, who for some months had come
regularly for their bundles, riding up from their
pretty little home by the river, carrying their work
in front of their saddles, failed one day to appear,
and instead of the portly form of the old lady, who
used to dismount w T ith such surprising quickness,
followed by a grave, handsome daughter, Quevna
by name, I found a miserable wizened-up little
woman sitting on the steps of the verandah, who
made me understand that my laundress was "sick,"
and that being a friendly neighbour she had volun-
teered to come for the bundles instead. I had often
seen this old wahine, (woman) but knew nothing of
her particularly; so gave her the linen, and rather
96 SCENES IN HAWAII.
pitied her as she staggered off under her load. My
friend Mary Mahoi had come to pay me a visit, and
had watched these proceedings with lazy interest,
putting in a word now and then; but after the old
woman had departed, Mary said in the abrupt
fashion peculiar to natives, "I don't like that old
woman." "Why not, Mary?" "Oh, her hands are
all white inside, you no see her hands?" "No," I
said, "What is the matter with them?" Mary looked
rather taken aback at this, and then blurted out,
" Oh, her hands have all white skin inside, and her
feet too, and some stuff come out of them, and my
father, he give her medicine." "Mary!" I said,
now in a genuine fright, "you mean the old woman
has leprosy?" Mary did not deny this assertion, but
calmly said the old woman would " scold," if she had
told me not to let her have the clothes, and made
me promise not to tell. I consented to this if she
would go off to the fields and get someone to go
with her to bring back the linen, which she did ; but
it was a true instance of the total indifference dis-
played by natives to the chance of bringing this
horrible disease near.
Science has apparently exhausted itself in the
direction of arresting or curing leprosy. Doctors
of all nations have tried their knowledge in vain.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 97
A physician came from Germany during our sojourn
in Hawaii, to report on all the different stages, and
a strange thing happened to him. During some
process of dissection, the poison entered some slight
scratch on his hand, which must have been insuffi-
ciently protected, and in a very short time the whole
arm swelled up and became discoloured. What
the result of this accident may be, it will probable
take years to tell, as one is told that frequently,
leprosy will take seven years to develope itself.
Segregation is the only cure and that, all the natural
instincts of the Hawaiian native make him fight,
but the result is that the extinction of the race is
a certain consequence.
The native language of the Hawaiians is distinct
from that of other inhabitants of the many Pacific
groups, it is composed almost entirely of vowels,
and when spoken by the educated is remarkably
soft and liquid. The chiefs of old days spoke in a
dialect which differed from that used by the lower
orders, and the white men who are much thrown
with natives and who understand the lang-uap-e
perfectly, say the difference is quite perceptible
still. A few words are very quickly picked up by
the new comer, and some seem easily applicable.
7
98 SCENES IN HAWAII.
For instance, instead of saying on the right, or left,
one always says, " mauka," or " makai," meaning
towards the sea, or mountain ; a road will run
mauka or makai ; a piece of furniture will be on
the mauka or makai side of the room. Yes, is
" ai," pronounced sharply like " aye," and often a
native will simply put out his or her tongue to
indicate " ai," without a word being spoken. The
heard " mahoppi " was a terror ! as it meant by-
and-bye, and that with a native was remarkably
like to-morrow, which never comes, " Pilikia "
meant a trouble of any description, domestic or
otherwise, an overflow of lava caused a terrible
pilikea ; a Chinaman literally taking up his bed
and walking off when friends were expected, was a
pilikia very likely to occur at any moment ; leaving
the unfortunate mistress in a great pilikia ! " Hoo-
hoo ' was, an expressive word indicating that he
or she was offended, and constantly used by
whites, believe the ordiniry scholar in Hiwiiian
finds it difficult to understand the speech of each
island, but I am equally sure that " pilikia," and
" mahoppi " are universal.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 90
CHAPTER VIII.
Invitation to King Kalakua's Coronation. — Drive to Kealia and
Kapaa. — The Parsonage. — Home at I.ihue. — Honolulu again.
— Ship in harbour. — Flowers. — Carriages, — Coronation Day.
— Coronation Ceremonies. — Coronation Ball. — Queen leaving
the Palace. — Coronation Fireworks. — 'Hookupu. — Grand
Luau. — The Dandy and his Dancers. — Races at Waikiki. —
Unveiling of the Statue of the great Kammehameha.
DURING the month of January, 1883, we receiv-
ed a card of invitation of enormous size, with
a border of scarlet and gold, engraved in gold
letters, and with the royal coat of arms emblazoned
at the top. It ran thus :
"The King's Chamberlain is commanded by His
Majesty Ki"ng Kalakua to invite you to be present
at the Coronation ceremonies, to be held at the
Iolani Palace, on February 12th, at 11.30 o'clock.
C. H. Judd, Colonel.
The direction accompanying this magnificent
card assigned us seats in the " Pavilion." We had
heard a great deal of the fact that King Kalakua,
having reigned some twelve years, now thought it
necessary to have himself crowned formally in the
S BS N HAWAII.
pre- of his loving subj - _ n himself
great deal of abuse from those in opposition to
his Government. But His Majesty calmly pursued
the even tenor of his way. paying no attention
whatever to the flood of newspaper articles wh
deluged the country even- week, heaping satire.
_rs. and unkind rema: - ks ill s rts diversified
now and then by dignified announcements of the
diftere: monies which were to take place dur-
ing the fortnight of fesl - and also by pra
no the Government organ for his determination
to earn,- through his own wishes. Party politics
run high in Hawaii, and the contemptuous expres-
sions indulged in by the rival papers, the Pacific
Ad ' and the Hawaiian Gazette, always re-
minded us of the celebrated journals of Pickwick
fame. We determined to take advantage of a
lull in the plantation work just then, and accept our
ration. And one beautiful morning we set off".
A friend from San Francisco, who was on a visit to
the islands was a welcome addition to our small
party, enjoying all our adventures with all kindnc ss
and good humour. Our equipage consisted of a
large double rockaway, with leather which
could be pulled down for shelter from any of the
fier; sudden rain storms which assail one often
SCENES IN HAWAII. 101
in the tropics, especially if the road runs near the
sea. The carriage was drawn by two stout mules,
preferred to horses, as they are so sure-footed, and
our way ran up and down many a steep gulch.
Strapped to the back of the carriage was a bag
containing necessaries for a night, in case accidents
should happen to our conveyance, or perchance the
steamer be delayed in starting, a very fortunate
provision, as we found later on. Following us was
a native boy on horseback, with a long, stout rope
tied on his saddle, to do what the natives call
"hookey-up" the very steep hills, a most necessary
adjunct to the part}-.
The air was fresh and cool when we started, and
the dew was lying heavily on the grass and leaves,
the mountains deep in purple shadow and white
mist. We looked anxiously at the towering head
of the Prophet, our only " Weather probabilities "
but he did not say rain, so we drove across the
meadow-like compound, and turned into the long
red road with easy minds.
The road itself was an excellent one, but a little
tiresome at first, for, in the short distance rf a mile
after we left our gate, we went up and down no less
than five gulches. All along our journey the
102 SCENES IN HAWAII.
mountains towered on our right hand, and the
broad Pacific glowed and sparkled on the left. The
road was not shady, except at intervals, but the
large clumps of Pauhala trees, growing closer to
each other as they approached the mountains, made
a refreshing vista of green leaves for the eye to rest
on. Some four miles from our gate we entered a
magnificent grove of ku-kui trees, which stretched
for miles on either side of the road. The trees
were the largest I saw on the islands, the leaves of
a delicate pea-green, and something the same shape
as a maple ; their great roots lay on the surface of
the ground, all gnarled and twisted for yards in
every direction, reminding one of the famous oaks
of old England. This ku-kui grove was an unend-
ing source of pleasure to us, as our visitors always
admired it so much,, aud the shade was delightful
after driving along the dusty high-road ; and by
turning off towards the sea one could imagine one-
self in a lovely park, driving here, there, and every-
where amongst these noble trees, casting flickering
shadows, and always opening fresh avenues, with a
glimpse of the sea beyond. Only one native hut
was to be seen, not far from the steep bank, down
which a road, or rather footpath, led to a white,
sandy beach, carved in the hollow of the rocks ;
SCENES IN HAWAII. . 103
deserted, but apparently keeping jealous watch over
a large native tomb, which was much like a cairn,
made of rough stones heaped together, a small
stone wall surrounding it and the hut. No native
will willingly remain in a hut where a death has
taken place, and for that reason, when one of a
family may be sick unto death, he or she is taken
outside to breathe their last ; but if such a ceremony
is not possible, the hut is almost invariably deserted
by all, the grave made near at hand, and avoided
in consequence of fear of evil spirits,
Passing through the cool shade of the grove we
emerged into the brilliant sunshine again, and sea
and mountains once more came into view. On the
right hand rose a green hill, quite alone and distinct,
called the Round hill, from its conical form, from
the top of which a wonderfully beautiful bird's-eye
view of the surrounding country could be obtained,
with the Plantation and old Crater lying peacefully
together. Now the road wound down into a valley
called Anahola, where was a nourishing rice plant-
ation, cultivated by the ubiquitous Chinaman, pass-
ing on the way the hut, nestled in among some
magnificent mangoe trees, of an old chieftainess,
of very high rank, who rarely left her dwelling.
When other high dignitaries came to Kauai, how-
104
.SCENES IN HAWAII.
ever, they always paid her a visit. I saw Her
Highness once, and she looked uncommonly dirty
and untidy.
We presently found ourselves near the tremend-
ously steep gulch of Molovvaa, a really terrific
descent and ascent, the terror of any person of a
nervous disposition. At the time I speak of we
had to go down this formidable hill with brakes
held back, and at a slow pace ; just at the foot a
very awkward turn in the road made it doubly
dangerous. Since then a stage with four horses,
and full of passengers, went crashing over the bank,
killing a child and inflicting bruises and broken
bones on the others. The turn in the road brought
us down on the sea shore, and after toiling through
the heavy sand, a ford had to be crossed, where
the current ran up in a rushing stream, which thus
made a terrible shifting quicksand. The native
who was riding behind dashed into the water at
once, to try. the best footing for the mules; he
waved his hand to indicate our course, the mules
were urged in. I heard my husband's voice encour-
aging them on, and go on they did. The next
moment we seemed to be floating in the sea ; still
the shouts went on, and the good animals responded
famously. The waters poured over the floor of the
SCENES IN HAVaII. 105
carriage, but we had taken the precaution of tuck-
ing our feet up on the opposite seat, so were none
the worse. In the middle of the roaring of the
current, die shouting voices, and the labouring of
the mules, who were half swimming, I opened my
eyes for a second, and saw a white helmet floating
on the water : in the excitement of the moment it
had tumbled off the coachman'-, head, but in some
unexplained fashion he made a dive at it and re-
claimed it ; dripping wet, but still useful. A moment
or two more and with a final rush up the opposite
bank we were landed safely on the beach in front
of us. Since our expedition a bridge has been
built inland, which has done away with the necessity
of crossing the quicksand, so that visitors nowadays
have nothing of the excitement attendant on that
part of the drive.
The plains spread out before us were very beau-
tiful; the deep shadows of the mountains * lying
green and cool, and large herds of cattle grazing
^ave life to the picture. We travelled on presently,
pointing out to our friend the perfectly round hole
which appeared to be cut in the rock as cleanly as
though with a knife, and telling him the tradition
attached to it, which was to the effect that once, in
olden times, the chief of Ohau was at enmity with
106 SCENES IN HAWAII.
the chief of Kauai, and as neither could settle their
disputes in the ordinary way, the chief of Kauai
threw his spear at his opponent in Ohau, and the
latter, infuriated, threw his spear with all his
strength at Kauai. So great and deadly was the
aim, that the spear cut through the mountain rock,
making a perfectlly circular hole, which remains to
this day as a mark of the prowess of the chiefs of
that time. Truly, there were giants in those days !
The blue sky has a strange effect, shining through
the small hole, which always looks the same, and
catches one's attention at once. A low stone fence
divided part of one pasture from the other, and by
that we knew we had passed the boundaries of
Molowaa and entered the lands of the Kealia plan-
tations, a magnificent estate, comprising splendid
fields of sugar cane anddarge herds of cattle. We
passed quite through the middle of a field of cane
in fulj tassel, which is always a pretty season for
the crop, each stick waving its purple feathers in
the slightest breeze.
The road ran under the great water flumes which
carried the cane down to the mill, and also under
the remains of an experiment in the shape of some
wonderful baskets swung on endless wires, which
were supposed to have solved the question as to
SCENES IN HAWAII. 107
the best method of sending the cane direct from
the fields to the mills. It proved the reverse of
labour-saving, and very expensive, the cane having
to be cut into exact lengths to fit the baskets ;
whereas all lengths can be sent floating down the
watet flumes, and the trifling loss of the saccharine
matter by immersion in the water is more than
counterbalanced by the expense of time and labour
of the other method. The cost of putting up the
,; Wire Tramway " was enormous, and though a
fair trial had been given to test its merits, it was
pronounced not a success. We drew up at the
entrance of a pretty little garden, brilliant with
blossoms of every hue, and a lovely shrubbery in-
side the fence ; it was the Parsonage of the first
Anglican Church in Kauai, and though the service
was held in a large upper room over the plantation
carpenter's shop, still it was none the less a church,
and the congregation, as a rule, was very good.
The pastor was a wonderful gardener, and every-
thing he took in charge seemed to grow, when no one
else could make progress. In a small piece of
ground he grew vegetables of all kinds, and, as in
most tropical climates, the seeds came up and bore
fruit in such profusion that it was found impossible
to consume the produce. As he was the only per-
108 SCENES IN HAWAII.
son who had vegetables for miles around, his neigh-
bours were only too thankful to be able to relieve
him of the superabundance. Our friend had married
the very sweet sister of Bishop Willis, of Honolulu;
they always showed us great kindness aud hospi-
tality, and on this occasion we were glad to take
advantage of the luncheon ready for us. The
cottage had a wide, shady verandah covered with
that most prolific creeper, the purple passion flower ;
and openings had been cut in the masses of green
leaves and tendril, so that one could look out over
the bright little garden, flanked by handsome red
Australian castor-oil trees, and catch a dazzling
glimpse of the ocean. As in all houses in the
island, the sitting-room was entered at once from
the verandah, well protected from mosqu toes by
the wire doors and windows. Matting and rugs
covered the floors, and easy chairs, sofas, tables,
large and small ; bookcases well filled, with pictures
on the walls, made it all look very pretty and home-
like. The dining-room was a little detached from
the house, with the kitchen beside, where the China-
ma^ when he chooses, can make the plainest food
palatable. The pastor also possessed two cows, and
was very proud of the fresh, sweet butter churned,
often by his own hand, for himself and his friends,
SCENES IN HAWAII. 109
by whom it was much appreciated ; for, except on
the ranches, butter is bad, tinned, and almost im-
possible to procure.
We still had some four miles to go, so we said
" Alohas " many, and left to catch our steamer at
Hanamaula, where we supposed it to be waiting.
Judge, however, of our dismay when we learned on
our arrival that the boat would leave from Naw'illi-
willi Bay the next afternoon. Nothing for it now
but to follow the Island custom and beg the hospi-
tality of the next planter's house, which we did ;
and, after driving through cane-fields, and following
the road immediately through Lihue plantation, we
found ourselves driving up a magnificent avenue of
royal palms, whose feathery branches almost formed
an arch, which led us to a fine modern house, with
immense verandahs and large, handsome rooms in
suites. This house was. built almost on the same
site as one of the first mission houses, but that
must indeed have been a contrast to the present
one. Only the host himself was to be found, his
wife and family having gone to Honolulu ; but we
were installed in a huge bedroom, with every
luxury of carpets, curtains, books, ornaments, etc.,
and with a sitting-room opening from it ; and after
a rest — for which I was profoundly grateful — we
110 - KNEE IX HAWAII.
had a. substantial supper, served in a dining-room
all furnished and made of polished woods, and were
waited on by a comical-looking little Japanese. A
walk in the garden the next morning brought new
beauties to light. Our friends were evidently fond
of flowers, for there was an immense variety, and
all cultivated to perfection. Such pink geraniums
I have never seen ; the rOses were like trees covered
with blossoms, and the Norwegian pines, rearing
their dark green branches among the delicate k
liness of blossom and colour, heightened the effect.
The verandah pillars were wreathed in creepers of
even.- hue, and altogether it was such a garden as
one could seldom see.
There were a number of small cottag ss : II .red
about in the grounds, for the purpose of putting
up friends when the house was full — ?. .nd
custom, and one that might be adopted by those
who like to have a country house full. The cot-
: iges have sometimes two rooms, and occasions
a bath-room, with a verandah to each house, so that
sts and sts are at times quite independent of
each other.
Before we started once more to join the steamer
our kind host brought us in some ripe pine app!
SCENES IN HAWAII. Ill
cut in the correct fashion, or rather pulled in rough
pieces from the centre with a fork. They certainly-
tasted deliciously and were cut from a huge bed
which was planted on a rugged hill-side, with the
sandy soil that pine apples there flourish in. At
Kona, on Hawaii, the pine apples grow in such
extraordinary profusion on a dry sand-bank close
to the sea that an excellent canning establishment
was begun and flourished there for some time. At
last we said farewell to our kind friends and drove
down to the wharf, where as usual, everyone for
miles around had congregated to watch the steamer
off. It lay in the lovely little harbour, which, sur-
rounded by high, dark rocks, gleamed blue and
bright in the sunshine. Presentlv we were handed
into a big, rough gig, manned by natives, and rowed
to the ship's side, whence, after several ineffectual
efforts to reach the swinging gangway, which danced
back and forth tantalisingly we were finally landed
on the deck of the ship, which was moving about in
a way that promised us a rough night, End alas !
we all soon had occasion to know that the promise
was fulfilled. •
After a very stormy, rough passage on the little
tossing steamer, we came into the beautiful Hono-
lulu harbour on a lovely fresh morning. In the
112 SCENES IN HAWAII.
harbour itself were no less than four ships of
war ; one was her Brittanic Majesty's Mutine, two
were American, and the other was either Russian
or French, I forget which — I think French, however.
They gave quite a warlike appearance to the scene,
and as one English ship had just departed, and a
few days later the large flagship Siviftsure, with
Admiral Lyons on board, anchored just outside the
reef, it provoked a remark from our cabman to the
effect, " I guess it looks as though England means
to swamp us here ! " The coronation was to take
place in a day or two, and already bunting was
beginning to be shown, and .the gardens were in
perfection of beauty, after rain, and before any heat
had come to wither them ; the Bougainvillier was
really in extraordinary masses, it seemed to run riot
everywhere, from the handsomest mansion to the
lowliest hut. At the hotel there were two huge
pillars supporting the double verandah at the back,
and from ground to roof there was a blaze of rich
purple colour, quite different from the sickly hue
the same plant seems to take in greenhouses. The
Mexican creeper also was like pink coral spread
over the roofs (its favourite clinging place) in profu-
sion. This last requires a hot sun, and on some of
SCENES IN HAWAII. 113
the islands will not grow, but it makes the houses
in Honolulu especially attractive in appearance.
Our kind friend, the wife of Her Britannic
Majesty's Commissioner, brought us tickets for
excellent places from which to view the coro-
nation ceremonies, and asked us to join her party,
going to the palace with her, which offer we
accepted most gratefully.
The next thing was to engage a cab, or "express,"
as cabs are always designated in Honolulu ; the
true cab, as we understand the vehicle, is unknown
there. A small, covered rockaway, with leather
sides, drawn by one horse, is what is invariably used
as a public conveyance, and the private carriages
are similar in appearance, except that in many cases
they are much larger, and require two animals.
I must also except the equipage of His Majesty,
which was a large English landau, imported direct
from London for him, and which, driven by a native
coachman, with a small cape of the red and yellow
feathers before described added to his trim English
livery, and a footman, similarily attired, beside
him on the box, presented a very smart appearance,
and was always regarded with great interest by the
native citizens. The distance being short from the
8
114 SCENES IN HAWAII.
hotel to the palace, we were very punctual in our
appointment with the friends who were to chape-
ron us. We found Her Britannic Majesty's Com-
missioner and his family party, consisting of his wife
and two fair daughters, all in full evening dress, the
young ladies in white, with feathers de rigiteur in
their hair, and the Commissioner himself in full
diplomatic uniform, his wife in richest black, all on
their own pretty verandah. In a few minutes our
numbers were increased by the arrival of half-a-
dozen officers from the English war ships then in
harbour. They were magnificent in full dress naval
uniform, which is rarely, if ever worn, only on the
occasion of a royal ceremony— -indeed, one of the
officers assured me that during the years he had
been in the navy he was certain he had not worn
the full dress more than twice, so that the amount
of gold lace by which we were surrounded was
something truly startling.
We approached the palace from a side gate, at
which were sentries ready to admit us after leaving
the carriages. Immediately inside the gate was a
broad footpath, strewn with rushes several inches
deep ; this led us to the entrance of a kind of coli-
seum, which was built in a half-circle, with tiers of
seats facing the front of the palace, where the double
SCENES IN HAWAII. 115
verandahs on each side of the grand entrance were
o-aily decorated and fitted up with chairs for the
officials and their families and the diplomatic corps.
Directly opposite the entrance doors of the palace
a broad platform ran out from the top step to a very
pretty pavilion, with open sides, beautifully painted,
and decorated with chains and wreaths of flowers,
on which were the throne-like chairs of crimson and
gold, with the gorgeous yellow feather robe thrown
on one. The pavilion had a pointed top, which
was painted in red, white, and blue stripes, present-
ing a lovely, tent-like effect, and the erection being
on a level with the lower verandah, at least six feet
from the ground, gave every one a full view of the
ceremony, which was to take place in the pavilion
itself.
As we neared the palace the guards presented
arms, and the band struck up the familiar strains of
" God Save the Queen," in accordance with the
honour due to our Queen's representative, and it
was delightful to our home-loving hearts to hear it
once more, as we had so often in Canada.
Our friends, of course, turned off to the left to
gain their own seats on the verandah, while we were
shown into delightful ones under the cover of the
116 SCENES IN HAWAII.
coliseum, and soon found that we could not have
had better ; above all, we were in the cool shade,
which was an inestimable boon on the warm July-
like day, especially as we were without covering on
our heads, our own individual party being in
dinner dress. It certainly was an interesting
and curious sight to look around and see the differ-
ent faces and garb of those about us. The ordinary
native women had Holokus on, many of most
expensive and rich materials, trimmed profusely
with laces and embroideries ; their hats, in most
cases, a mass of feathers, of the Gainsborough type,
set on top of huge coiffures, with leis of leaves and
flowers ad libitum, and strongly scented handker-
chiefs, the nrtives delighting in such perfumes as
musk and patchouli. Quite close to us were the
boy pupils of St. Louis College, a Roman Catholic
school for native boys, in neat dark uniforms, with
white caps. The verandah soon presented a very
gay appearance, the ladies' costumes were most rich
and beautiful, and the official and diplomatic corps
fairly blazed with gold lace and orders. On the
left side of the entrance sat a fine old native, who
attracted an immense deal of attention, Governor
Kanoa, of Kauai, a very old man, with a magnifi-
cent head of white hair, from underneath which his
SCENES IN HAWAII. 117
strongly-marked, dark features and copper-coloured
skin showed curiously amongst all the delicate
colours of the ladies' apparel, for His Excellency
was given a place of honour, owing to hi: high rank
as a chief. He also was in gorgeous uniform, with
a star on his broad breast. He was a remarkably
fine specimen of the old native aristocracy, whose
manners were singularly courteous and graceful ;
and, alas ! the generation is fast dying out.
As each representative of the foreign courts
entered, the national air was played by the really
excellent Hawaiian band, and, as we waited for the
royalties, an old native lady in a flowing white
Holoku, profusely 'decorated with flowers, suddenly
began in a loud, monotonous, singing voice, an
apparently endless mele, or " chant of praise," which
was a very ancient custom ; it was, I should say,
improvised, and was an account of Kalakua's virtues
and achievements, and praise of every kind, con-
tinued at intervals throughout the ceremonies.
Presently another raconteur took up the theme,
while the first stood and flopped her scented hand-
kerchief to cool her shining face. It appeared to
be highly interesting to those who understood the
language.
118 SCENES IN HAWAII.
The arrival of the Japanese ambassador and suite
excited general interest, as they were the only per-
sonal representatives from another country who
were bearers of greetings and congratulations to
King Kalakua. They were the tiniest little fellows
possible, to be grown men ; and their round, smooth-
shaven faces added to their childlike appearance :
in fact, they looked like small boys of diminutive
stature, arrayed in full evening dress. They all
carried high hats, and wore different ribbons and
orders. One of the most beautiful gifts presented
to the King was that sent from Japan : an immense
pair of vases, urn-shaped, on pedestals fully eight
feet high. At first sight we all. thought they were
bronze, but on closer inspection, they proved to be
of polished dark wood. Every inch of the surface
being most exquisitively carved in strange figures
and animals — a truly royal gift. On either side of
the platform stood a double row of Kahili bearers,
reaching from the palace doors to the lowest step.
The Kahilis themselves were wonderful to look
upon. We were told that months of labour had
been bestowed in their manufacture. The staffs
were fully ten feet high, and half of that space was
taken up by the feathers, massed in some curious
way on stiff straws, so that nothing could be seen
SCENES IN HAWAII. 119
but the waving plumes.* Those made of the
shining dark, green, and black cocks feathers and
of the beautiful bronze turkeys, were marvellous in
their effect, while the red, white, and yellow ones
were a splendid contrast in colour. The bearers
were in a kind of livery of scarlet and black, also
wearing high hats*; and capes of the red and yellow
feathers, worked in bold patterns. The old Kahilis
belonging to the Royal Family were much smaller,
of pure white feathers mounted on sticks of sandal-
wood, and tortoise shell, and some of these ancient
relics were in readiness inside the pavilion.
The actual ceremonies of the coronation of King
Kalakua and Queen Kapiolani were not short, but
I think every one was greatly interested in watching
the proceedings, ' particularly as no one of the
spectators knew what was coming next Suddenly
the band struck up the Hawaiian national anthem,
" Hawaii Ponoi," a very stately march and most
melodious, and we knew that the royal procession
must be coming. The procession was headed by
the marshal of the kingdom, with gold staff of
office. After him came the chamberlain, in gor-
geous attire, and then a page, bearing on a crimson
and gold cushion the two crowns, which were high
structures of gold and jewels, with crimson velvet
120 SCENI'S IN HAWAII.
adornments. Other officers of the household fol-
lowed, and then came his Majesty, wearing a very
handsome German uniform in white and blue
colourings. Ribbons and different orders crossed
his broad chest ; he wore no covering on his head.
A little behind the King came Queen Kapiolani,
in a superb dress of white silk Or satin, and court
train of crimson velvet, most magnificently em-
broidered in gold the pattern being taro leaves, the
national emblem. Her Majesty's coiffure was very-
high, and a veil depended from the comb, which
seemed to add also to the height. The train was
borne by several ladies-in-waiting all costumed
alike in white satin petticoats and bodices and trains
of black velvet, a most harmonious combination of
colour altogether.
Almost immediately behind them walked Princess
Kaiulani (or Victoria), a pretty little lady of seven
years old, and heir-apparent to the kingdom, attired
in bright blue, with her dark curls tied by a ribbon
of the same hue, and carrying some flowers in her
hands, Kaiulani was the daughter of the Princess
Like-Like, a sister of the King, who died a (ew
months ago (His Majesty's eldest sister, Lilliokilani,
having no family, the little Kaiulani is in the
direct succession to the throne).
SCENES IN HAWAII. 121
The other members of the royal family followed
in their order of rank, the mother and aunt of the
little princess being most superbly dressed, one in
a satin of crushed strawberry colour, covered with
glittering embroidery of every hue, and Princess
Lydia (who attended the Jubilee in London with
Queen Kapiolani) in a Parisian costume of cream
satin, with the front of the dress made into little
puffs, each puff being held by a small gold bird.
Amidst all this moving mass of colour the pure
white surplice of the Rev. Mr. Mackintosh, rec-
tor of the cathedral, who had dwelt many years in
the islands, seemed by its familar simplicity to
give dignity to the whole bright scene.
The procession filed along the platform and passed
into the pavilion, the ladies-in-waiting and some
of the household retiring to the verandah ; the band
ceased, and the familar tones of the rector rose on
the soft air, reading first in English, and then in
Hawaiian, the service, which was neatly printed in
a small pamphlet form, and given to all "who chose
to read.
During the service, certain ancient customs
seemed to be observed, such as presenting the King
with a sceptre, placing a ring on his hand, throwing
122 SCENES IN HAWAII.
the beautiful feather robe over his shoulders, and
waving" of the royal kahilis. Finally, after several
prayers had been said and a hymn sung, the
audience again • rose, and the King, also stand-
ing, placed the crown on his own august head.
Another prayer, with a response from His Majesty,
and then he turned to place the other crown on the
head of his consort ; but — alas for royal dignity ! —
the Queen's coiffure was high and elaborate, and
apparently no thought had been given to the crown,
The audience watched with intense interest, while
hairpins, comb, and veil were being removed. In
vain ! the crown would not fit, and in desperation,
and apparently in no very good temper, the King
made a final effort, and literally crammed the
insignia of royalty down on Her Majesty's temples,
Another prayer and response, the blessing pro-
nounced by the rector, and again were heard the
strains of " Hawaii Ponoi " (Hawaii for Ever), and
the King took up the sceptre, and with the crown
on his head, and the feather robe hanging from his
shoulders, His Majesty led the way from the pavi-
lion into the palace — kahilis waving — band playing
— cheers rending the air. Pacing majestically
along, the crown just a little on one side of the
royal head, the scene of the funny King and Queen
SCENES IN HAWAII. 123
of " Alice in Wonderland " came irresistibly to my
mind as I watched the burly form of Kalakua I.
marching along, his black curly hair making the
pose of the rich gold circlet even more remarkable.
One would not have been astonished to have heard
the counterpart of the order, " Off with his (or her)
head," issuing from the royal lips. I think,- though,
that it was the Queen who was the blood-thirsty one
in " Alice," and certainly none could connect such
an order with the kindly countenance of Kapiolani,
who walked behind her royal spouse, beaming good
nature and happiness on all near her.
Unfortunately, the King, having realized his
ambition of being crowned, thought it was only
proper he should have a court, and also a new table
of precedence ; and, as for fifteen years certain
people had enjoyed a distinct rank, they naturally
looked upon such as an individiul right ; and when
these new rules were inagurated, the result can
easily be imagined to have been dissatisfaction and
grumbling in all quarters.
In a few days invitations were issued for a ball
to be held in the Palace, as an important feature
of the coronation festivities. The cards were much
the same as those for the coronation itself, rather
124 SCENES IN HAWAII.
larger, perhaps, and with a gold crown resting on a
crimson cushion engraved at the top. All the
young people were in eager expectation of the en-
joyment of the occasion, as it was the first really
large ball given by the King.
On the evening appointed we drove to the same
gate used by the people the day of the coronation,
but instead of being open, as at that time, to a rush
strewn pathway, we found ourselves in a pretty
passage lined and laid with crimson cloth, and
flowers everywhere. In this we were received by
an officer of the household, who conducted us to
the. entrance of the large space which was enclosed
by a tent of enormous size in front of the palace.
The pretty pavilion which had been used for the
coronation ceremonies was moved to one side, and
in this the Hawaiian band was discoursing sweet
music, and a state quadrille was going on opposite
to the entrance door, His Majesty, in full uniform,
dancinsr with the wife of the head official. The
Queen, I think, was in a seat arranged for the
royalties, looking on, as I fancy Her Majesty did
not care for European dances, though the Princess
Like-Like was a graceful and accomplished dancer,
and the King himself waltzed beautifully. The
steps leading up to the verandahs were covered with
SCENES IN HAWAII. 125
red cloth, and the palace hall and reception rooms
were a blaze of light, the verandahs being provided
with comfortable seats in every direction. We
walked about, and looked with much interest at the
many beautiful costumes worn by the ladies, which
were interspersed by the brilliant uniforms of the
royal household, and also of the many officers of
the English and American war ships which were at
that time in the harbour.
We found many of our friends, and the dancing
was delightful, the band rendering exceptionally
good music. All went on merrily for some time
and the fears of rain were almost naught, when
suddenly a few drops were heard pattering gently
on the roof of the huge tarpaulin covering. In a
short time some found their way through, and pre-
sently little pools were formed on the floor, in
between which the dancers endeavored to wend
their way. Still the rain poured steadily on, and
in a short time the cloth on the steps leading
up to the palace entrance was soaked the
covering not having been extended over the steps
to the tent roof, and so the open space afforded
thereby was soon streaming with the rain. Ladies
with delicate satin shoes looked askance at the
shining stairs, which, covered with baize, at one
126 SCENES IN HAWAII.
time scarlet, were now black and sodden. What
was to be done ? Some of the younger people
made a rush and gained the haven of refuge, but
those who wore trained gowns hung back, dodging
the now fast-falling shower of drops. At last one
lady courageously set an example by accepting the
offer of a chair, which, raised by four stalwart arms,
was carried at a quick run up to the vestibule ;
others followed, and in a few minutes the tent was
cleared of the guests, who found themselves trans-
ported as if by magic to the brilliant rooms of the
palace, where the beautiful dark polished floors of-
fered even a more tempting field for the dancers
than the temporary one of the pavilion.
The hall of the palace was very large, and oblong
in shape, with a handsome dark staircase at the far
end, which ran straight up and then branched off
right and left. The floor was dark ; on either side,
ranged along in stands, were the magnificent feather
kahilis, which had been displayed at the coronation ;
bright, coloured carpets were laid from the door to
the foot of the stairs, and brass and crystal chande-
liers shed a flood of light on the scene.
On the right hand were two sets of large double
doors, opening into the reception room, in which the
SCENES IN HAWAII. 127
king was accustomed to give audiences to distin-
guished visitors, a large, long apartment with polish-
ed floor of dark native woods, huge windows open-
ing on the verandahs, hung with crimson draperies,
and very beautiful and unique cornices of brass made
to represent the ancient Hawaiian spears, crossed
at the tops of each curtain. Brilliantly lighted as
it was, it was a splendid ball room, and the dancing
was resumed as merrily as though no disturbing
element had occurred to mar the enjoyment of the
evening.
Later on we went to supper, crossing the former
ball room — deserted now, but rendered less un-
comfortable by the cessation of the rain, — which
opened into another long, narrow inclosure, built
specially for the occasion, with a table in the form
of a T, at the top of which the king and his party
sat.
Good things were in abundance, and huge bowls
of punch, etc., were scattered about — the silver
and glass were all nice — and flowers everywhere.
"Of course there was grumbling, but as in the most
civilized circles, that is not an unusual thing ; it
was not to be wondered at that all were not satis-
fied, though no trouble was spared on the part of
128 SCENES IN HAWAII.
the King and his assistants to make everything go
smoothly.
A very funny incident occurred later in the even-
ing, which was witnessed by myself and a few
friends, showing, in a measure, the dislike, and even
inability, of the Polynesian natives to bear the re-
strictions of civilisation for any length of time.
They can endure them up to a certain point, but
when weariness sets in they seem obliged to suc-
cumb to their own longing for ease and carelessness.
A number of us were seated on the broad couches
ranged on either side of the hall, talking over the
events of the evening, when our attention was
caught by three figures coming down the great
staircase, in the full glare of light, and which looked
so at variance with the pretty evening costumes
about us that involuntarily we all stopped our talk-
ing, and gaped in astonishment at the sight of a
young native woman, clad in a bright scarlet holoku
a straw hat, with a wreath of flowers round it, set
on the side of her head, a wreath of leaves round
her shoulders, and bare feet. Following her came
an older, stouter lady, with a long loose garment of
some dark stuff drawn carelessly round her, carry-
ing a native straw hat in her hand, and with feet
SCENES IN HAWAII. 129
thrust into galoches. A momentary pause of
astonishment on our part, and then some one said,
with a gasp: "The Queen!" and we all rose to
our feet and made obeisance, as Her Majesty calm-
ly and smilingly returned our salutations, and
turning round at the foot of the stairs, marched off,
followed by another lady in waiting, costumed
much as .the one in advance, and made her way out
of the back entrance, which opened directly on the
grounds, in the far end of which her own house lay.
The fact was that the Queen, unaccustomed as
she was to the discomfort of the very fashionable
European costume in which she had appeared in
public for many hours, had, after enduring it as
long as she could, made up her mind to disappear
into private life. After changing her gorgeous
robes for the easy garments she always wore, she
was no doubt happy in the idea of eluding observ-
ation, and it was a mere accident that she was seen,
as every one was supposed to be in the supper
room. I was intensely amused at the sight, as it
seemed to make one realize, as nothing else could
have done, that the display and ceremony was, after
all, but a thin veneer of outward show of civilisation
laid on the native character of lazy ease, with which
9
ISO SceNeS in Hawaii.
Hawaiians are so impregnated. Equally were we
struck by the :alm indifference of the Queen on
being discovered in her undignified apparel. " A
Queen once, always a Queen," must have been the
motto which sustained Her Majesty.
A few nights after the ball, we were bidden to
witness some fireworks, which were displayed in
the palace grounds, a treat which had been pro-
vided for the natives mainly by the good nature of
the King, and to hear the deep drawn " Oh's" and
" Ah's" of the hundreds of Hawaiians when they
saw a grand rocket, or Catharine wheel, for the first
time in their lives, and their child-like delight at a
" rocking ship" made of gaslights ingeniously
amalgamated, must in itself have been a pleasant
reward for His Majesty's kind thought. That
evening the palace was gaily illuminated, and open
to all visitors who choose to take advantage of the
opportunity afforded of inspecting the beautiful
rooms. The King was, as usual, kindness itself to
one and all.
Another feature of the homage paid to King
Kalakua was the " Hukoopu," a very ancient cus-
tom, but to the performance of which none but
natives were admitted ; this was the laying at the
SCENES IN HAWAII. 131
King's feet presents of every description by every
native who could possibly do so, and the majority
of these presents were mainly of eatables, alive and
dead, cooked and uncooked. Pigs, chickens, fish,
notably the squid or cuttle fish, delight of the
Hawaiian appetite, pink taro (grown for and eaten
only by high chiefs) poi of many kinds, bread fruit,
water melons, sweet potatoes, native fruits, such as
mangoes, cocoa nuts, alligator pears, limes, etc.,
leis of feathers and shells, calabashes, rolls of tapa
cloth, mats of every degree of fineness, all those
were taken in such quantities, that the courtyard of
the palace was heaped with the gifts offered.
The greatest kindliness and good nature seemed
to prevail everywhere, and certainly the news which
comes to us at this time of the confusion and re-
volt which is being experienced in Honolulu just
four years after the carnival of the coronation seems
hardly credible to those who remember the bright-
ness of that period in the Hawaiian capital.
Shortly after the coronation ball had taken place
and we were wondering " what next," we received
invitations to a large " Luau " or feast, to be held
at Iolani Palace. The cards were quite as elaborate
as those for the coronation itself, and we were asked
132 SCENES IN HAWAII.
to present ourselves at twelve o'clocck in the day
most fortunately it was a brilliantly beautiful day,
the sun shining brightly, but always tempered in
its heat by the cool trade winds. At the appointed
hour we walked down towards the gate which had
admitted us on the former occasions, and 'found
throngs of natives of every class on their way to
the same destination, a Luau having much the
same attraction for the Hawaiians that an immense
feast would have for a lot of school children. All
were dressed in their smartest array, the women in
the brightest-coloured holokuswith, in nearly every
case large hats with feathers and wreaths of flowers ;
the men in gorgeous shirts of every hue, and the
inevitable straw sailor-like hat, with leis .of roses,
honeysuckle, and wild ginger,, flowers of every
kind ; they almost always wear snowy-white trou-
sers on gala days, and the result is a very picturesque,
costume. They were laughing and chattering, no
doubt chaffing each other, for the natives are very
sarcastic, and always see the humorons side of a
thing first, no matter at whose expense. We passed
through the fast collecting crowd, and gained the
entrance to the palace grounds, which were on this
day thrown open to the public. Rushes strewed
the pathway to the same large enclosure which,
SCENES IN HAWAII. 133
with its tent roof and tiers of seats, presented much
the same appearance as on the coronation day,
except that instead of the small pavilion, the centre
space in front of the palace was taken up by two
enormous tables running their full length between
the seats. These tables were draped with white,
but the entire tops were covered with ferns and
leaves massed together so as almost to form a
tablecloth of themselves ; quantities of flowers
were placed about mingling with the ferns. All
manner of native dainties were offered to the guests,
who took their places, ate as much as they wished,
and then withdrew to the seats to look, on at their
hungry successors. At every second or third place
was a great calabash of the inevitable poi, without
which no Hawaiian meal is complete. At each
plate was a small bundle of the ti leaves enclosing
various fish which, being cooked in the leaves and
also served in them, preserves the delicate flavour
immensely. Sweet potatoes of enormous size,
boiled and baked taro, sea weeds of different kinds
boiled and eaten hot, kukui nuts grated up as
a kind of salt relish, native onions, bananas, and
native fruits in quantities,- — all these go to make up
a native l.uau ; and above all, the noble pig baked
in a hole made in the ground for that purpose,
134 SCENES IN HAWAII.
which is filled with hot stones and leaves, covered up
for a certain length of time, and he finally emerges
in a state of perfection unknown to those who have
not been fortunate enough to taste Mr. Piggy in
such a condition. No Northener can imagine the
difference between the ordinary roasted pork and a
pig baked in the ground — the flavour is totally
different. Raw fish plays a conspicuous part at
Luaus too. The method of eating these various
delicacies is certainly not appetising, the rapidity
with which they disappear being something mar-
vellous, each fish is dexterously torn to pieces and
passed to the next neighbour, and so on, the last
person who receives it propably being the loser.
Everything is eaten in that way, so that at the end
of the feast the untidiness of the remains is generally
something appalling. The only liquid served on
the day I speak of was soda water, a bottle of which
lay at each place.
We sat down at a little distance, and watched
the curious scene. The natives had turned out in
great numbers, and the scent of their leis of flowers
and maille leaves was almost overpowering. Many
half-whites were there too, dressed in a wonderful
attempt at European fashion. Two sisters we
especially remarked, dressed in flowing black holo-
SCENES IN HAWAII. 135
kus and the very largest crimson plush hats I ever
saw, with enormous plumes nodding in the air.
There were numbers of attendants, male and female,
all natives, who moved about in the leisurely way
natural to Hawaiians, and did their best to clear
each table, as it was vacated, for the next comers.
The King had devoted many of the offerings at
the Hukupoo to this Luau, which, strange as it may
appear, actually went on for hours ; it had been
going on for some time when we were there at
twelve o clock, and it was still progressing late in
the afternoon. On the verandah of the palace were
Queen Kapiolani, Princesses Lilliokolani, LikeLike,
and Kaiulani, surrounded by a large suite and many
officials. Presently an aide-de camp, in a handsome
German uniform, almost all white, was sent to ask
us to go up to the piazza, and so we presently
found ourselves in the court circle. Her Majesty
was in the centre, attired in a beautiful holoku of
rich white satin, whose flowing, ample folds suited
her much better than her gorgeous coronation robes,
and she looked much more comfortable, giving us
her kindly smile of welcome as usual. The little
heir-apparent looked pretty in a crimson velvet and
pink costume, with a huge Kate Greenaway bonnet
framing her dark eyes. Many of the white ladies
136 SCENES IN HAWAII.
had assumed the holoku in compliment to the
natives, many in richest material ; but all paled
before the wonderful tints worn by the wife
of one of the Cabinet Ministers, . who was
sitting close to us. She was a remarkably hand-
some woman, a full native, very dark brown skin,
enormous in stature and size, but with a really
beautiful head and face, the features perfectly
regular, of a half sad, almost statuesque expression.
Round her shapely head was a wreath of various-
coloured roses, but her dress was marvellous, the
brightest yellow satin, shot with purple and trimmed
with quantities of green — a brilliant grass green,
too ! It was as near one's idea of a bird of paradise
as could be ; a large lace collar lay on her shoulders,
which was no doubt the finishing touch*. The
whole combination made one's eyes fairly blink !
During the afternoon some ancient spear dances
took place, mingled with others, and during the
evening we heard the heathenish sounds of the
small native drums, which invariably accompany the
Hula-hula dances.
The professional dancers (of whom the best come
from Hanalei) are regularly trained by an extra-
ordinary looking man, who is known by the name
SCENES IN HAWAII. 137
of "The Dandy;" he is, I think, a half-white,
and the aim of his existence seems to be to
make himself as conspicuous in appearance as
possible. To this end, his costumes are of the
most flashy kind, and quite different from those
worn by ordinary individuals. I saw him one
afternoon in Honolulu, attired all in purple velvet,
with a green waistcoat ; the coat was similar in
shape to an ordinary dress coat, but with unusually
long tails, and there appeared to be some gold
embroidery about his sleeves. A ridiculously high
collar, with a stock and a tall white hat, com-
pleted this most extraordinary — what ? one cannot
call it dress !
I believe these Hula dances are a relic of the
barbarism practised by the Hawaiians, and am
told they are extremely coarse and ungraceful in
every way ; the Government at times make spas-
modic efforts to suppress them, but hitherto with
little result. The girls are usually ugly, and wear
a curious kind of short dress, drawn up through
wreaths of leaves which are worn around the
hips, and their bare ancles have small fur or
feather rings ; the music consists of a small round
drum which gives a monotonous sound, beaten
138 SCENES IN HAWAII.
continuously by the dancers or others placed for
that purpose.
The coronation festivities were closed with some
races, which took place on the pretty race-course at
Waikiki, about two miles from Honolulu, and we
enjoyed the fun of it all immensely. The officers
of the ships in the harbour got up a gentlemen's
race on any scratch animals which could be got
together, regardless of size, age, or weight ; which
gave an interest to the friends looking on. A
charming luncheon in the tent of the Kind's chain-
berlain, at which His Majesty King Kalakua
attended in person, garve us an additional pleasure,
and having heard the strains of "Hawaii Ponoi "
from the band, we drove back to the town, pausing a
moment to see the start of a fine four-in-hand,
coached in a masterly fashion by an ex-officer of
Her British Majesty's cavalry.
We also saw the unveiling of a very fine bronze
statue of Kammehameha I., which was placed in
front of the Hall of Legislature. The great chief
was a man of enormous strength and grand appear-
ance, and the statue shows the tall, manly figure
clad in the malo ; the ancient feather robe falling
from the shoulders. On the head was the head-
SCENES IN HAWAII. 139*
dress assumed by chiefs going to battle, the form
almost precisely the same as that of the ancient
Greek helmet. This was also made of the
glittering gold coloured feathers massed on some
kind of firm foundation, and as the cloak and
helmet were gilt, the effect against the dark
bronze was really beautiful ; the right hand was
extended holding the mighty spear, which it was
said no chief but Kammehamcha could wield, so
large and heavy was it.
140 SCENES IN HAWAII.
CHAPTER IX.
Life on a Plantation — Work in the Cane Fields — Labourers —
Chinese — Portugese — South Sea Islanders — Looking after the
Labourers — Holidays on the Plantations — The Doctors Orders.
— Chinese with Sickness — Visit of H. B. M. S. "Constance."
FTFE on a sugar plantation in the Hawaiian
Islands is vastly different from the same
existence on a similar estate in the south ; it
is intensely primitive; very lonely; interesting at
times, and always anxious to the planter, who has
the several questions of labour, water, climate, and
profit, or no profit ? to contend with, throughout
the year. For in planting sugar there is no rest
as there is in a winter season on a farm. As soon
as one crop of cane is cut and taken to the mill to
be ground, planting for the second, and sometimes
third rotation has to be attended to ; these are
called second and third ratoons, and on some of the
finest plantations produce crops almost equal to
the first season, The mills grind nine months
out of the twelve, and of course cane has to be
ready for the grinding without stoppage ; at busy
SCENES IN HAWAII. 141
seasons the mills grind at night, and one enterpris-
ing planter who had one mill for two plantations
had the electric light put in and the labour was
incessant night and day.
The hours for work are not so long as they are in
a town, and as the weather is fine for many months
out of the year, and every one is in the open air, it
is not so enervating as employment in close rooms
would be. I except, of course, the mill employees
and the bookkeepers. The atmosphere in a sugar
mill is something as close to that of the hold of a
steamer as can well be, the heat being terrible,
and the noise of the machinery being deafening.
Whole families of the labourers turn out to work
in the fields ; mothers, fathers, and as many children
as can work, are in the fields before six o'clock ; at
twelve they march off for their dinners, which they
bring with them, and leave off for the day at half-
past four. The labourers are divided into " gangs "
each at different work ; planting, watering, hoeing,
ploughing, cultivating between the rows, ditching,
stripping, (tearing off the superfluous leaves to get
the benefit of the light and sun), cutting, carting
and finally loading the small tram cars, which are
carried into each possible field on portable rails ;
142 SCENES IN HAWAII.
each gang- being watched by a luna, or overseer,
almost always a white man, very often a young
Englishman who has found his way out to the
Islands, in search of " something to do." China-
men have frequently their own head man, who
lives in their quarters, engages the gangs, and
generally looks after them. A chinaman's dress in
the fields seems composed of motley rags ; an old
cotton coat, once blue, and curious fiat hats with
broad brims turned down all round, the crowns very
small, inside of which they sometimes wear a kind
of skull cap, and occasionally an old kerchief will
tie down the hats, out of which their cunning faces
look in a comical fashion.
The Portugese women are always picturesque, if
not very clean ! their fondness for bright colours
denoted in the brilliant cotton handkerchiefs tied
over their heads and round their necks ; their walk
and actions are very graceful, carrying, as they do,
immense weights on their head, beginning with
small ones in childhood, which makes them move
lightly and steadily, with head erect. It is a
comical sight to see a women with perhaps a huge
basket of linen on her head, or a heavy sack of
flour, with the husband lounging behind bearing
a burden in shape of the inevitable baby, which lies
SCENES IN HAWAII. 143
under the fences all day while the mother works
near by.
The South Sea Islanders were the most repulsive
looking creatures ; their quarters were isolated by
the sea shore, and one would be reminded of the
" missing link " on the first glimpse of the gang
stalking along in single file on their homeward
way.
The faces were very black, and most animal in
feature ; their bushy hair, coarse beyond descrip-
tion, stuck out all round, and their great tusk-like
teeth, and staring black eyes, gave them a very
monkey-like appearance.
The women wore a kind of skirt, and sleeveless
garment, made ont of the old sugar sacks, and in
each ear, the holes bored were so large, that a
bunch of matches, or twig full of leaves, were ge-
nerally used as earrings ! They seemed devoid of
intelligence to any extent, and I always disliked to
meet them.
The labourers are engaged by contract, some-
times for two or three years, as the case may be ;
and the more civilized ones, such as the Portugese
and Germans, look on the Signora as the one to do
much for them ; anything they want, they ask for,
and most unreasonable demands are made at times.
144 SCENES IN HAWAII.
A sort of medicine chest room is always kept
supplied for their use, and when a Portugese, man
or woman, makes his appearance with his or her
head tied up tightly in a handkerchief, then you
know that " Oh, Signora, I got bad cold," or, " My
hand, or foot, or leg/' as the case may be, " is sore,
very sore," or, as they say, '" My stomach very
sore," is sure to be the complaint ; but whatever it
may be, the head is invariably wrapped up !
When a low fever broke out, we often visited
them, to induce them to take the bitter quinine
necessary, and would always try to show by ex-
ample that fear would not make them well. One
case only of typhus came.
The quarters are divided up into small and large
rooms, and all connected with a verandah, in which
they chiefly live, taking their meals on the floor,
and always sewing on the door steps. Their fire
places are in front, made of bricks or stones built
round holes dug out of the ground, and sometimes
roofed over .by rough boards.
The men are incessant smokers, and coming
down each Saturday night for their money, will
talk and smoke for hours if allowed to do so.
The planter has to try and settle disputes, but
SCENES IN HAWAII. 145
being of an intensely excitable nature, they like to
carry their differences into the law courts, and if
the " Signor " decides his case against them, they
show their disapprobation by the most outlandish
shouts and gestures, on one occasion going through
the form of hanging their master, making his grave,
and finally stamping on it with great energy.
However, their excitement goes as quickly as it
comes, and a few minutes afterwards they will be
as jolly as possible, having forgotten all their
animosity.
Public holidays occur frequently, and the Por-
tugese take a great many religious ones also.
Christmas and New Year's Days were ushered in
by the glee singing and serenading of the natives,
who roam about to all the houses from 1 1 p.m. to
3 a.m. Germans sang too, and sweetly enough,
though the hours chosen were rather inconvenient.
On Christmas and New Years Days, the Planters
used to get up races of all kinds, on foot and on
horseback ; and one year we had an exhibition of
lassoing by the most expert Spaniola on the Plant-
ation, Manoa by name, a very good-looking native ;
he threw the lasso with great grace and dexterity,
trying it on some friendly Englishmen who offered
10
146 SCENES IN HAWAII.
themselves as victims, for the ladies benefit, they
riding as fast they could induce their steeds to go,
and Manoa galloping after and making the broad
loop fall round the waist of his quarry with the
greatest ease possible, amid shouts of applause
from the bystanders.
The natives also picked up half dollars from the
ground, sweeping past us at full gallop without
stopping, which was very pretty to watch.
The Portugese were fond of arraying themselves
in white, with immense paper heads of animals on
their shoulders, and bringing out a May pole, with
numbers of bright ribbons, would go through regular
old-fashioned Morris dances to some music of their
own
They also danced what they called " fandangoes,"
a kind of tarentella, and were very fond of them on
these occasions.
Kammehameha Day, and the King's birthday
were the native holidays, and in old times they
liked to give exhibitions of surf bathing, or swing-
ing out on the top of a huge wave, armed with a
plank, and then riding back on the crest of the
wave, much as we do with our toboggans on the
snow hills. But as with so many old native prac-
SCEMES IN HAWAII. 147
tices surf riding is rapidly going out, aud only
seldom now can it be seen.
On all plantations good schools are provided
by the Government, which also appoints the school
teacher. At Kilauea there was a large building
given to the Plantation by some kind donor for a
church, and as it was too large for our scanty con-
gregation, part of it was divided off into the school,
and Hawaiian and English taught ad. lib.
Pastor Mahoi had a great levee in the church
when it was first built, and everyone young and
old was supposed to pay down their silver dollar
on entering the building, to pay for the painting of
the walls.
Long tables (an innovation) were spread with all
the delicacies usual to the occasion ; the smoking pig
being borne in by quite a procession of native and
half-white damsels, with large leis of maille and
flowers, Mr. Piggy being cut up into small pieces,
disposed on plates, and eaten as usual with ' the
fingers. A crowd of young people were hanging
about outside, perhaps rather shy of facing their
acquaintances ; this did not suit the Master of Cere-
monies, a talkative lawyer, and he presently dashed
out and after haranguing at the door triumphant 1 }'
hauled in the delinquents, and marched them up to
148 SCENES IN HAWAII.
the table to deposit their dollars. Our boy Johnnie
had anxiously requested an advance of wages that
morning, and on my wanting to know what he
wanted the money for ! It was : " Me want a coat,"
" all same at chinese store;" so to my astonishment
I saw three youths being escorted up to the table
by the M. C. and in one of the three sleek, brushed,
white trousered, black coated trio I recognized
Johnnie ! he had determined not to be outdone, and
had paid his $15 for a black broadcloth! I don't
suppose he ever wore it again, for a native detests a
coat of any kind.
Our English services were held on Sunday after-
noons after the natives had got over their morning
worship, which with them was a great event, the
people all riding, women with babies in front, men
with girls sometimes riding pillion-fashion. They
sang a great deal, but when tired of Pastor Mahoi's
exhortations would adjourn to the Chinese restaur-
ant across the road, and have a cup of coffee or a
pipe, then return to await the end.
The only native who did not ride, was a very old
man, Pihi (fish) by name, who probably, in the days
of his youth had never mounted a horse, and now
thought it late in life to begin. He walked several
SCEXES IN HAWAU. 149
miles to church, and always carried a huge blue
cotton umbrella, what for, I do not know, as sun and
rain are alike to a Hawaiian. Pihi's bow, or rather
salutation, was a thing to be seen, it was sweeping
and stately to a degree, the wave of his hand and
his cheering "Aloha, Aloha" quite charming.
The Portugese, being Roman Catholics went to
a church at Molowaa, and a huge procession of
carts and horses used to set off, looking picturesque
indeed with the mass of bright colours. One of
our labourers was anxious that I should be god-
mother to a little baby girl, and it was to have one
of my names. We found on searching their diction-
ary that "Carolina" was familiar to them, so that
suited admirably. On the Sunday appointed we
drove over to Molowaa and found a great crowd of
Portugese and natives assembled. The ceremony
of the baptism was long and tedious, and during
that time the child was carried to the door, where
the priest, followed by all the relatives of the
child and ourselves, went to meet it. Apparently
it was to be received anew into the church, and on
his Reverence asking for the god-mother, I stepped
forward and was asked, " Are you a Catholic." On
my saying " No " he at once declined to let me
officiate, but said, " You cannot promise for the
150 SCENES IN HAWAII.
child, but you may promise she will be a good
Catholic." I assented, and after giving a bright
silk kerchief and some little presents for my god-
child, we departed.
We had many Scotch friends on the plantation :
Our Manager was from Mid-Lothian ; the doctor,
sugar-boiler ; school master and minister combined;
and head blacksmith, were all Scotch ; also the
engineer, who brought out and controlled the great
steam plough, which did such capital work in the
fields ; and it was curious to hear the broad soft
Scotch accent, amongst the many dialects and
languages which assailed one's ear on a walk through
the plantation, English, Portugese, German, Native,
Japanese, Norwegian, Chinese, made up a great
medley ; and now and then would be heard a
French word or so.
There was a large restaurant in connection with
the store for the convenience of the young white
lunas, and the fare was generally good, the cook,
Scharsh by name, being much above the average,
quite a professional in fact.
A small English club was got up at one time ; it
flourished fairly well, but at different periods would
be dissolved, and then re-assembled ; the members
SCENES IN HAWAII. 151
gave one or two little dances, especially when any
lady visitors were to be had to swell the limited
number of fair ones. Then riding parties were
greatly in vogue, by afternoon, and by moonlight ;
sometimes to the top of what was known as the old
Crater, though no tradition survives as to its ever
having been active.
The Kilauea plantation was beautifully situated
with the mountains on one side, the river running
through it, and the Crater hill rising above the sea,
which bounded the other line. A broad road ran
through from the church to the store for nearly half
a mile, with the mill and numerous rows of quarters
on either side. Some of the cottages of the better
class were quite pretty with bright gardens and
verandahs covered with creepers of every kind.
When anyone leaves from one cause or another,
everything possible is sold by auction, and that is a
gala day for the people, especially natives, who
fairly love the excitement of buying in that way,
and will spend the whole day looking on at others
doing likewise.
Accidents in the mill were not so frequent as one
would imagine, but sometimes it was of course ine-
vitable that they would come ; and our sympathies
152 SCENES IN HAWAII.
were always deep and sincere for the poor maimed
fellows. Fortunately we had one excellent physi-
cian on either side of the island, and our own doctor
was a good friend as well. He had come from one
of the great Royal Infirmaries in Scotland, and
used to the untiring vigilance and prompt obedience
of nurses and patients there, was at times fairly
dismayed at the utter disregard to his orders ; and
stupidity shown by those on whom he had to attend
in Kauai.
One day an elderly native woman broke her leg,
the accident taking place some distance from the
plantation, and she had been carried to the house
of a relative who happened to live near at hand.
The doctor set the limb, and bandaged it up com-
fortably in the usual way ; what was his wrath,
when on visiting the patient a day or two later, he
found the bandages unfastened, the splints gone,
and some leaves bound round in their place. He
good naturedly reset the bone, and left strict orders
not to touch ; however, on his next round, he dis-
covered the same process had been gone through
with, so he gave up the patient into the hands of
her own kahunas, who had no doubt been the means
of frightening the old wretch into this rebellion ;
SCENES IN HAWAII. 153
the old lady was a cripple in consequence, but not-
withstanding, if a similar accident had happened,
the doctor would have been certainly summoned,
only to have his measures followed by the arrange-
ment of what they termed " strong medicine "
Chinese are much the same, but not knowing
the fear of death, they will not even attend on each
other in times of sickness, a thing from which they
shrink in abhorrence, and not even extra pay will
induce them to shew common humanity in times of
illness ; their medicines are even more extraordinary
than the native roots and leaves, one man asking
one day if there was a certain drug to be obtained,
which was made from the " monkeys brains,"
naturally his request could not be fulfilled.
One bright remembrance often occurs to us, of
the visit of H. B. M. S. " Constance," which event
took place about six miles from Kilauea, the ship
anchoring in the beautiful harbour of Hanalei.
The " Constance " brought down the British Com-
missioner from Honolulu, and as he came to stay
with us at Wailele, and the Commander went to
the manager's, our visitor dubbed Wailele the
" British Legation," and the other home " The
Admiralty."
I!l4 SCENES IN HAWAII.
Everyone got together every available convey-
ance and animal to bring our guests over to the
plantation, and I .believe hosts and guests enjoyed
themselves equally. One of our middy's, now
doubtless a gallant lieutenant; turned out to be a
son of a very old friend, which made the meeting
even pleasanter, and their three days sojourn in
the far off island home will be always remembered
with the kindest feelings.
On the last morning of .their visit, two of the
officers walked over from Hanalei, to Wailele for
breakfast, a feat which was looked upon by most
people as an act of madness, in a country where no
one ever walks any distance.
Just below the house was a deep pool under the
fall, and in that our merry naval friends disported
themselves long, they declaring that the fresh water
swim was the greatest treat they had since leaving
England. We had many and welcome visitors to
Wailele, but none more so than the officers of " The
Constance." The Manager's home was also close
to the river, which being very dark in colour just
there, gave it the name of Waiuli Hall, or "House
by the black water." There was always a great
dinner given in the handsome dining room at
SCENES IN HAWAII. 155
Christmas time to all who could come, and the
hospitality of Waiuli was well known in the
island, the garden was lovely, sloping down to the
river bank, with a large fountain round which grew
ferns and red ginger in profusion ; and a border of
large white spider lilies was beautiful to look on,
and delicious in scent The view from the veran-
dah steps was charming, the river winding down
'til lost in the sea, and the varied tints of the luxur-
iant foliage completing the picture.
156 SCENES IN- HAWAII.
CHAPTER X.
Opening of the Legislature in Honolulu — Ceremony — 'I lv Debate—
— The Wonderful Interpreter — News Flies Fast — My First nnd *
only Scorpion — Other Insects — Visit to the Market.
TN a subsequent visit to the gay capital of Hono-
*■ lulu, I experienced two things, of a widely dif-
ferent character however.
One was the opening of and the debate at the
Hawaiian Legislature ; the other was my first and
only introduction to a scorpion !
First, surely, should come the ceremony per-
formed in person by His Majesty.
The debates are carried on by. the reverend and
grave Seigneurs in a large, handsome room in the
Public Buildings, in front of which stands the really
splendid statute of Kamamhamha I., and on the
appointed day, of which we had been made aware
by tickets "For the Floor" having been most kindly
presented me, in company with Her Britannic
Majesty's Commissioner, and Vice-Consul, we drove
up to the great door through quite an avenue of
King's Guards outside, and passed through a line
SCENES IN HAWAII. 157
of Kahili bearers with gorgeous feathered capes,
inside the long hall, in waiting for the royal family.
The room was thronged with all the elite of
Honolulu, most of the ladies in handsome morning
dress. We had excellent seats for observing, which
we did with all our eyes. Facing us was a large
dais, with a throne-like chair and canopy, all cover-
ed with crimson and gold. To the right and left
of the dais were arm chairs for the Judges of the
Supreme Court and the Diplomatic Corps. The
Judges, four in number, were arrayed in robes of a
deep maroon satin, trimmed with fur of some kind.
I heard they were like those assumed by the Judges
in Switzerland, but cannot vouch for the fact.
The British Commissioner, American Minister,
(or in exact form, I should reverse that order) ; the
Foreign Consuls and Staff were in uniform; and all
the ladies had donned their brightest array. The wife
of the Portugese Consul looked particularly attrac-
tive in a pale heliotrope satin gown draped with a
Spanish mantilla, which was worn with natural grace.
Now we heard " Hawaii Ponoi," and presently the
King and his sister, Princess Lydia, preceded by the
Chamberlains and Kahili bearers, came in and took
up their station in front of the throne, and while we
158 SCENES IN HAWAII.
all stood, His Majesty read the speech, first in
English, then in Hawaiian. The King, as before
described, has a remarkably soft musical voice, and
I was glad to hear the Hawaiian language read by
a chief, as there is an immense difference in the in-
tonation, each syllable being so clearly and well
pronounced.
The Princess stood calmly surveying the people,
scarcely moving while the speech was being read,
her crimson satin looking very handsome in the
bright light. Her Royal Highness was in full
evening dress, with an immense train, a bright
crimson blossom in her dark hair, and carried a lace
handkerchief and fan.
At the conclusion, the King declared the session
open, wished us all loha mui, handed the speech
to the A.D.C., bowed gravely twice, and withdrew, *
followed by the Kahili bearers. A curious mixture
of the barbaric and conventional, and the impres-
sion was always left that these people, though per-
haps not all that we might desire in some ways, yet
carry off their royalty with the mien of " To the
manor born." Others may argue that there should
be no display, look on it all as nonsensical in this
nineteenth century ; but on occasions such as the
one described, it was always curious to mark the
SCENES IN HAWAII. 159
grave dignity of bearing evinced by the Hawaiian
chiefs.
A few days afterwards when we went to hear a de-
bate, we found the aspect of the chamber somewhat
changed ; the floor being taken up with desks, at
each of which sat two members, the dark faces of
the Hawaiians showing in contrast to their paler
brethern. In two rows of chairs facing" each other
on either side of the dais were respectively, on the
right the members of the Cabinet, on the left the
Nobles, who are always termed " Honourable " they
answer something to our Senate, but have the same
chamber as the Representatives.
The venerable-looking President, as the office of
our Speaker is termed, occupied a large chair
at the front of the dais, the throne behind, being
evidently only used on State occasions. Imme-
diately below the dais was the Interpreter, who filled
his office in a most marvellous fashion ; in front of
him was a railed-in space enclosing a large table at
which sat several reporters busily engaged with their
short-hand.
An animated debate was going on, in which
many members were constantly joining, but only
one, of course was allowed the floor at a time.
160 SCENES IN HAWAII.
Now came into display the powers of the Inter-
preter ; for instance, up would get a member ready
for the fray, burning with eloquence, a flood of words
pouring out in defence of his point, he would go on
for perhaps three minutes if in English, when, lo,
up would go the Interpreter's hand, the English
tongue would be suddenly silenced, and the words
taken red hot as it were out of his mouth and trans-
lated into a much more eloquent flow of Hawaiian !
gestures telling of indignation, appeal, surprise,
assertion, were all carried out most faithfully. In a
few moments the stream of speech would cease, the
former orator would take up his theme again, and
would be about regaining what he had lost by the
interruption, and begining to feel he was doing his
subject justice, when up would go the hand of fate,
and again the soft native words would translate the
harsher English for the benefit of the Hawaiian
members.
The member for Honolulu got up to speak, but
his eloquence was summarily disposed of in concise
English. Again, a white brother took the floor, with
the same result, as before, aad I began to feel some
sympathy with the members, for no one, I should
think, not even thegrandold man himself could carry
SCENES IN HAWAII. 161
on a debate in this fashion without feeling that he was
at least being cruelly treated, to the detriment of his
speech, and the failure of eloquence. The interpreter
I am sure, took' care that his native hearers should
lose nothing by his translation ; he walked up and
down in quarter-deck fashion, always keeping his
face to the house holding his audience by sheer
force of clever interpretation ; in fact he was the
whole house embodied in one man ; his apparent
interest in everything was so extraordinary, no
speaking by rote, but shewing a feeling of responsi-
bility on every subject he took up, as though he was
personally involved. Imagine all this in a not very
airy room full of people, the thermometer probably
registering at least jo° in the shade outside, and
then think of all the exertion required for this, day
after day.
I came away deeply impressed with what I had
witnessed, and also with the fact that news flies fast,
as when I returned to the house where I was stay-
ing, I was told with great glee by a young member
of the household, that the evening paper already
reported the fact that " Mrs. Captain Forsyth Grant,
occupied a chair on the floor of the house this
afternoon," at which we weregreatly amused.
II
162 SCENES IN HAWAII.
Now from the sublime to the ridiculous, comes
my interview with a scorpion. Other insects, such
as immense grey spiders, with legs as thick as a
pen holder and hairy withal, I had learned to look
on with a certain degree of tolerance, especially in
the case of the spider, as I was always told by the
Chinaman, "Nokillee him, he eatee mosquitto."
Centipedes I did'not love, and was a bit frightened
of the great black and red creatures, which if you
did cut them in half did not seem to mind, but
tradition said actually joined together again ! To
the latter I cannot assert, but I certainly have
seen both halves of the wretched creature move.
Cockroaches as large as mice almost, were to be
met with always, and the only thing which seemed
really to get rid of them was an application of
crushed borax, or Persian insect powder, both of
these being in some way obnoxious to them, and in
consequence a careful house-wife had to cover her
linen shelves, and dose liberally everything which
had to be put away for a time. Ants of every
species carried their armies into everything, and the
only way to get rid of them was to put the legs of
tables and safes into cans of water, but as a friend
said once to me, " Ants are so self-sacrificing, they
SCENES IN HAWAII. 163
will bridge with their bodies a way for their com-
panions to gain the desired end."
Frogs and snakes there were none. I remember
being so struck by a mother of a family once asking
me to tell her children exactly what a frog was like,
for as she remarked, " The only thing they know of
frogs are their pictures, and in an ordinary lesson
book, frogs are made the same size as flies ! "
perfectly true too !
All these creatures I was " well acquainted with,"
but never a scorpion had I seen until one morning
I took up a sponge, and saw what I took to be a
friendly grey spider ensconsced inside. I poked at
it with my finger, when to my horror out wriggled
a hideous looking, uncanny monster. I called to a
young friend near, and she cried out, " Oh, what a
big scorpion, wait a moment," which I did, and she
hurried back with a huge hat pin, with which she
impaled the beast against the wall, leaving him to
die a lingering death, but from my observation I
should say a scorpion had no feeling to speak of.
It seemed to be all long claws coming forth from a
thin, almost transparent body ; and a tail which
curled right over its whole length, was almost trans-
parent also, but the extreme tip of which had a
164 SCENES IN HAWAIt.
bright scarlet spot, and my friend told me that was
the only drop of blood in its whole body. The
bite of the scorpion is supposed to be almost deadly
in its effects, and is greatly dreaded, so I suppose I
had a narrow escape when I put an enquiring finger
into Mr. Scorpion s abode.
While in Honolulu during this visit I went to the
market one Saturday afternoon, and was much in-
terested in watching the motley crowd making their
purchases of fish, always tied up in green leaves,
the long feelers of the squid hanging down in all
directions ; fruit of every description, from piles of
pineapples to baskets of limes, water melons,
greatly liked by the natives, fresh figs, mangoes,
alligator pears, etc., mingling with enormous
bunches of bananas, which grow wild all over the
Islands.
Outside the market place were the women selling-
their leis of flowers of all kinds ; they were all
lounging in every conceivable lazy attitude on the
ground, with their wares displayed on mats beside
them. Roses, jasmine, oleander, wild ginger, all
went to make up the fragrant necklaces. The
vendors were chattering, smoking, talking at the
top of their voices, laughing, all the while threading
SCENES IN HAWAII. 165
the blossoms on the thin fibre used to string the
leis together. With their bright coloured holokus,
dark faces, white teeth, and all the tropical sur-
roundings of a brilliant sunshine, palm trees, the
market stalls heaped with all kinds of curious
things, Chinamen walking about carrying cala-
bashes of poi for sale, and the general air of lazy
inactivity which always prevails in a Hawaiian
crowd, the contrast to a bustling northern market
was strong indeed.
The climate of Honolulu is most delightful from
October to June ; the later summer months being
hot and dusty ; and the young people have delightful
parties of all kinds, to suit the climate ; pic-nics on
horseback, when a thin dress is sent on in the pro-
vision waggon to replace the heavy riding gear, in
order to scramble about in the woods are charming-.
Bathing parties by moonlight are a great recre-
ation, many people having pretty summer homes
down on the sea shore some distance from the
town, and from the verandahs of which one can
step into the sea. Tennis, cricket and baseball
flourish, the two former games especially so when
ship's officers are amongst the visitors to the town.
The different public holidays are periods of fun
and merriment of different kinds.
166 SCENES IN HAWAII.
Queen Victoria's birthday is always observed by
a reception at the British Commissioner's ; some-
times, as was the case on this visit, by a ball under
the same hospitable roof, when the sailors from the
flag-ship "Swiftsure" were the skilful decorators
of the improvised ball room, and the beautiful band
of the ship furnished the delightful dance music.
Herr Beger's " boys " as he calls them, having
given us a selection of English airs during the
morning ; enjoyed extremely while sitting under
the shade of the pomegranate trees then in full
blossom.
The other national holidays are always observed
much in the same manner ; such as the 4th July,
Kammehameha day, etc.
The most ordinary ball-room can be easily trans-
formed into beautifully decorated rooms with the
masses of palms and flowers, mingled with ferns
and maille always so easily obtained. One young
lady was quite famous for her taste in arranging
the different groups of green and colour, and was
always greatly in demand during any special season
of gaiety, and her kindness was as well known as
her talent.
In such a tropical climate flowers seem the
easiest things in the world to obtain, and the
SCENES IN HAWAII. 167
decorations of the cathedral at festive seasons were
most beautiful. One Easter I specially remember
from the exquisite beauty of the arrangements.
For many years the decorations have been
divided into certain parts by different members of
the congregation ; thus, the kindly wife of her
Britannic Majesty's Commissioner always under-
takes the pulpit, assisted by her daughters. Three
charming girls, all cousins, took special charge of
the font, and the lay sisters of St. Andrew's Priory
made the altar beautiful by their work ; the
members of the choir decorated other portions of
the church ; and in that way all knew beforehand
exactly what they were to do, and made their pre-
parations accordingly — each getting together all
the flowers for the special work Such division of
labour makes it interesting to all, and one might
recommend this plan to any parish. The Easter
flowers are in such profusion in Honolulu that there
is no lack of choice. One lady I heard saying, —
" I am afraid that I shall not have enough tuberoses
in the garden ; I must beg from my friends," — and
apparently she had begged to good effect, for on
Easter Even, going into her house, it seemed filled
with the perfume of the lovely flowers, and on my
asking where they were,' I was taken to see the
168 SCENES IN HAWAII.
huge wooden bath, about eight feet in circumference,
simply filled with the sweet-scented things. There
was no other receptacle large enough to hold the
mass. The natives have their early service first,
and we did not go till the mid-day one. The font,
which was near the door, had its base wreathed in
green and white, and the cover, which was a very
high pointed one of wood, was literally covered
with nothing but stephanotis and violets, making
the most beautiful pyramid possible. The pulpit
had small tin cases fastened in two rows, painted
green, and thus concealing themselves behind and
among the banks of tuberoses, heliotrope and cloth
of gold and Marechal Niel roses. The altar was
apparently standing almost in a shrubbery of
flowers, and a very handsome cross of brass work
rose out of the sweet blossoms, adding much to the
•effect. The service is high in St. Andrew's, and
the gorgeous robes of the Bishop and his assistants
made a glowing picture in the rather dark interior
of the chancel. Just in front of where I was sitting
were the royal pews, and on the ledge were large
crimson velvet covered books, with the royal coat
of arms and motto emblazoned on them. The
royal family are regular in their attendance at the
two native churches, in both of which their Ma-
SCENES IN HAWAII. 1G9
jesties take great interest — the king himself not dis-
daining to speak sometimes at meetings held in the
church.
On two occasions when visiting friends in
Honolulu, the cathedral was well filled with blue
jackets, several ships of war, English and American,
being in the harbor at the time, and the bright,
fresh faces of the men in trim and spotless uniforms
were very plesant to see. A service on board the
Swiftsure, a large flagship lying outside the reef,
and to which we were taken in a beautiful steam
launch is a bright remembrance.
The kindness and hospitality of the people of
Honolulu to their visitors is ijideed great, and I
imagine the charming climate will obviate the
necessity of a demand for anything more of a con-
ventional state of society, as the life is naturally so
much more in the open air and sunshine than could
possibly be obtained in a northern climate, and
people can therefore meet together readily, and
without ceremony.
I have heard, however not a tradition either, that
since Her Majesty's return from England, Queen
Kapiolani has given several " afternoon teas," to
ladies only, and that the gatherings at the Palace
170 SCENES IN HAWAII.
were most popular, being enjoyed by hostess and
guests alike, and no doubt gossip at Honolulu is
indulged in, over the fragrant cup, as easily now-a-
days, as the songs and legends were heard in years
gone by, by the Hawaiians of old over the calabash
of poi, or bowl of awa.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 171
CHAPTER XI.
An interesting episode. — Johnnie. — Kealia House. — Pic-nic up the
Waialua. — Koloa. — -The Judge's Home. — Mrs. Sinclair and
Family. — Ideal Life. — Waimea River. — Kekaha. — Visit there.
— Lepers at Waimea. — Cane at Kekaha — Old Kahuna. —
Blue Lake at Kekaha. — Barking Sands. — Wachiava R.tnche. —
Burial Caves. — Hanamaula. — Home again at Kilauea.
And now we were to have a most interesting-
journey, one which created a good deal of surprise
from our friends on all sides, and that was, a long
drive of no less than 120 miles, as far round the
island of Kauai as could be managed without cross-
ing the mountain, and back to Kilauea, and all to be
done in our little phaeton, with the assistance of a
cart wherein to carry our luggage, which we were
thus enabled to send from place to place, taking a
bag in the phaeton to guard against contingencies.
A stoical native boy, Johnnie, of whom mention
has been made before, promised to come with us,
and act as courier in general, and "hookey up" in
particular, so on the appointed day he made his
appearance in a very wonderful get up of white
trowsers, blue flannel shirt with enormous white
buttons, high boots with jugling spurs, a huge felt
■ hat with a lei of ginger round it, and another lei of
172 SCENES IN HAWAII.
maille leaves over his shoulders, the finishing touches
being given by a great leather belt, and a brilliant
cotton handkerchief, like Joseph's coat, of divers
colours, tied in a loose knot about his neck. Thus
accoutered, I am sure Johnnie looked on himself as
the one person of importance in the trio. Johnnie
was supposed to ride a mule of well known steady
manners, driving another in front, on which we had
strapped the bulk of the luggage ; however, this
last proved a dead failure, for after giving him at
least two hours start, we drove off, and when pass-
ing through a road some few miles away, we des-
cried Master Johnnie riding in the degage manner
peculiar to natives, and letting the pack mule
wander at his own sweet will, which being of an
erratic tendency, was just then taking him perilously
near the edge of a very steep gulch thereby endan-
gering our precious packages most uncomfortably.
The truth was, Johnnie's dignity was hurt ; start-
ing off was a novelty to him, but as the day wore
on, " Ginger," the pack mule, got weary of his
burden, and "Whiskey," the one Johnnie bestrode,
did not object to following the quiet pace necessary
to the pack mule, and as a native is only happy
when going at full gallop, or loping canter, he
thought he was being cheated out of his pleasure
SCENES IN HAWAII. 173
due him, and my firm belief is that Johnnie would
not have been overcome with sorrow if Ginger had
tumbled over the gulch. However, we encouraged
him with cheery words, and drove on, leaving him
most disconsolate, and he did not appear at the
rendezvous until after ten o'clock that night. The
next morning he was sent back to Kilauea for a
small cart in which he thereafter drove the mules,
and everything went smoothly enough.
We spent two days at our friends the pastor's at
Kapaa, and found him in the best of spirits, and his
garden a blaze of colour and blossom as usual.
While there we rode over t6 the handsome and
hospitable residence of the owner of the two
plantations, Kapaa, and Kealia ; the house, a
modern two-storied structure with mansard roof
stood in beautiful gardens, where roses of every hue
grow almost into trees of exquisite beauty. In
front of the house was a small artificial lake in
which grew masses of pink water lilies, which were
very lovely. Here the Australian Euchylyptus
trees were in great profusion, their fragrant leaves
diffusing a delicious odour when crushed. Olives
grew there too, their dusky colour revealing the
true " olive green."
174 SCENES IN HAWAII.
The rides and drives about were, as usual, lovely
in the extreme. One pic-nic up the Waialua river
lingers in my memory. We started a party of
eight, a lot of young people with us, and sailed
up the pretty river where the " windings " in and
out were constantly opening visions of beauty ;
ferns, reeds, grasses grew down to the edges, and
were mirrored as in a glass. Magnificent guavas
grew in such profusion that we stopped for
luncheon where we could pick huge basketfuls
without any trouble. Here a very funny incident
occurred. A native had begged us to give him a
seat in the boat, and his request being acceded to,
he wished to take the whole command on himself,
which was, however, calmly, but firmly objected to.
He proceeded to talk a great deal, standing up in
the boat, working his hand now in this direction,
now in that, as he thought the course ought to be
shifted, and we came to the conviction that the
would be skipper had been indulging in his
favourite tipple, whatever it might be, to the extent
of making him slightly incoherent.
When we landed he was very officious, and on
being suppressed, he got sulky, lit his pipe, and
established himself in an easy attitude on the
forked branch of a tree several feet from the
SCENES IN HAWAII. 175
ground. There he lay, presently fell asleep and
snored vociferously : but while we were trying the
depths of the hospitable luncheon basket, we heard
a tremendous report of breaking wood, and going to
find out the mischief done, we discovered that the
branch on which our friend had made his couch
had completely broken from the tree the sleeper
lay flat on his back, the pipe still in his mouth,
but all the same the slumberer was undisturbed
from his sleep ! Our laughter should have
awakened him, if anything would, but he still slept
so soundly that we thought it a pity to disturb him,
and so left him to his fate. I might here remark
that on our retnrning some hours later to bring our
guavas, the native was still asleep ! What became
of him I do not know ; the river lay between him
and his home, but that is a small obstacle to a
Hawaiian.
A long way up the Waialua we came to a once
beautiful estate, where coffee had been' found in
immense quantities, and flourishing crops were
obtained until the blight came and destroyed every-
thing.
Taro patches covered the valley, and on the top
176 SCENES IN HAWAII.
of the hill, we could make out the stone foundations
of what once had been a lovely home.
At a short distance a double waterfall made a
really beautiful picture, and after gazing for a long
time at the whirling rapids, and the varied foliage,
we made our way down to the boat again, enjoying
the sail home in the short tropical twilight.
We left Kapaa on a brilliant morning, and after
a drive of some hours through an undulating road,
reached a pretty cottage home, where we were
welcomed by the kind and courteous judge of that
district, and his daughter, who was known for her
beauty and sweet manners all over Kauai.
Koloa was the name of the plantation, and it was
almost a town, with shaded roads, and pretty old-
fashioned houses with verandahs covered with
creepers, varied by smaller habitations. There
were two churches, a large district school, one or
two " stores " and the usual plantation buildings.
The house at which we were received was a small
cottage in the main building with a verandah in
front, round which wandered a beautiful grey and
pink paraquet which was a great amusement to' all
new-comers ; to the right of the house was the
kitchen, and the judge's office ; to the left, a large
SCENES IN HAWAII. 177
room for visitors, all detached, in the usual island
fashion.
The cottage was almost buried "in sugar cane,
which grew thickly in front of the house, and
behind babbled a lively little brook through a
pretty wood ; the judge was a great poultry fancier,
and everywhere one went chickens of all sizes and
ages seemed to appear from all sorts of nooks and
corners.
We spent three pleasant days at Koloa, enjoying
discussions on many things, from evolution to
poultry, for the judge was a great reader and deep
thinker, and was able, best of all, to impart his
thoughts to his ready listeners.
We left Koloa early one bright morning, and
at mid-day passed through another plantation
called Eeele-Eeele (Elly-elly), where we saw in the
distance a white house-, seemingly nestled at the
foot of the mountains, at which we later had a most
pleasant visit. Further on we saw some extensive
rice fields, which were so gaily decorated with
poles from which fluttered streamers of every hue
imaginable that at first one thought there must be
some festa in progress, but the deafening noise of
the cans hung up in the breeze, and popping of
I 2
178 SCENES IN HAWAII.
guns, soon made us aware that all this display was
for nothing but to frighten the little rice birds from
the grain on which they vainly strove to feast.
We came in sight of the sea, along which a rough
road wound, and presently were confronted by a
truly awful looking hill cut out of the rock, on
which one could discern a narrow bridle path, well
worn, with rocks of every shape and size on either
side ; the carriage Jiad to go up, and so had we, so
with a cheering word to Hop, our little carriage
mule, a willing animal but a trifle treacherous with
his heels at times, we began the ascent, the coach-
man walking beside with reins in his hands. Such
a bumping and shaking was seldom experienced,
but we did manage it, and at last after a severe
struggle during which the wheels were almost at
right angles with each other at times, we reached
the top, and looked down from our rocky elevation
on the plains where stood a large rambling home-
stead, white, with green blinds and wide verandahs,
surrounded by trees and flowers.
The descent was easier on that side, and at the
foot of the hill we turned to the right through a
gate into a road that led up to the house, across a
primitive bridge, underneath which ran a wide
SCENES IN HAWAII. 179
stream with steep banks. As we approached the
house, our kind friends came to the verandah steps
to meet us. First came a fairy god- mother-like
old Scotch lady, whose name is known far and wide
in the Hawaiian Islands. By her side stood the
eldest son and his wife ; two kind matronly faces
smiled in welcome, also daughters of our hostess ;
and again, another generation behind, in the two
granddaughters, and grandsons. I may here
mention the fact that many years ago, the head
of this fine family with sons and daughters left
Australia to seek another home in the wide
Pacific, and they, being rich in the worlds goods
took a ship for themselves, and " sailed, and sailed,
and sailed," until they landed by preference on the
shores of Kauai, and here made a home, or rather
homes, for besides the house on the plains (the
native name of which I forgot,) they have a charm-
ine retreat in the mountains called " Makaweli,"
to which they can escape when the heat gets intense,
and where, wonderful to relate, there is a fireplace !
And where the coolness of the climate is such that a
fire is kept constantly burning, and to anyone who
had not seen a fire for years, that of itself was an
immense attraction. Another grandson had bought
180 SCENES IN HAWAII.
the Island of Niihau, and lived there in truly
patriarchal fashion, amongst his flocks and herds
and with no communication with the outer world,
except what was attainable through an occasional
visit of the steamer and a trip now and then in one
of his many whaling skiffs. A young family grow-
ing up, however, must eventually, one would think,
disturb the calm and quiet of such a retired life.
The house on the plain was built to accomodate,
many a visitor, each bed-room being made to open
on the verandahs all round the house, with a dress-
ing-room at one end. And frequently eighteen in
number sat down to the tabic, for another daughter
and her family were settled within a few miles. The
drawing-room was large, filled with evidences of a
charming home life, piano, books, work, pictures,
and all description of curious and interesting objects
brought from abroad, where different members of
the family would go for a prolonged visit to far-away
regions.
Mrs. Sinclair owned immense tracts of lands, and
the natives therefore owed to her allegiance in the
way of work, in return for being able to keep their
dearly loved grass huts and Taro patches intact.
A great deal of land was being turned into sugar
SCENES IX HAWAII. 181
cane during our sojourn, and the rich soil promised
abundant crops, if irrigation could be attained, and
since our return we have seen accounts of engineers
being employed to convey water from the numerous
mountain streams to the fields, which will be all
that is wanted to ensure phenonemal crops.
We had a delicious luncheon, such home-made
bread and butter, such vegetables, preserved man-
goes and cream as seldom comes to one's lot in
Hawaii, and our long drive had sharpened our
appetites into being able to do full justice to the
meal, which was served to us by an old white-haired
native butler. After luncheon we went to see some
beautiful Arab horses, which had been recently
imported, and greatly admired the handsome crea-
tures which poked their fine muzzles for the bread
which they all contentedly took from kind hands,
and pawed the ground with high-bred feet as
though impatient for a swift galop on the breezy
plains.
Towards evening we left our kind hostess as
we were to reach Kekaha, the farthest plantation
on Kauai, for a long promised visit ; and were very
happy to have the opportunity again later on, of
renewing our acquaintance with this ideal family
182
SCENES IN HAWAII.
party. For it was an ideal life, surrounded by their
own kindred, charming homes, those dependent on
them glad to be so, and with a feeling of attach-
ment which can only come from a life-long service;
a perfect climate, and with means to cross the broad
seas whenever inclined for change, and health ; what
can more closely realize the perfect life ? True,
there is no church near at hand, but morning and
evening brings family prayers, which in old days
was the only form of worship known ; horses in
abundance to ride, and carriages to drive gave
exercise to all, the broad sea beach a quarter of a
mile from the house invited those who wished to
bathe to do so, the exquisite changes of atmosphere
brought pictures of land and seas to gratify the eye,
and the wonderful ferns and foliage gave subjects
for the artists' pencil, as are seldom seen.
Mrs. Frank Sinclair was an accomplished artist,
and her sketches of flowers and plants, including or-
chids, were really beautiful. I think they have been
bound together for private distribution, and would
be a valuable addition to a flower-lover's collection.
A lodge in the mountains gave the gentlemen
the means of " camping out" for days, while hunting
wild cattle, a dangerous, and no doubt, an interest-
SCENES IN HAWAII. 183
ing pastime for a lover of sport ; and still another
sylvan retreat, built in a picturesque spot in the
high woods, added the touch of romance, when I
may add that before we left Kauai, two of the
young cousins got married, and went to spend their
honeymoon in the pretty cottage, to which they
rode after the ceremony, followed by the good
wishes of the immense party of relatives assembled
to the wedding.
' After leaving Mrs. Sinclair's we drove to the banks
of the Waimea River, which was very much swollen
from the rain, and their found Johnnie with the
cart and- mules. A large party of natives looked
on with interest when we prepared to ford the
river, but a second look made me sure the little
phaeton would be submerged if we attempted to
cross in it. What was to be done ? I could not
ride across very well in my every-day raiment,
with the chance of getting wet, and try the carriage
I would not. The question was solved by putting
me in the cart, which of course was much higher,
and being driven with the mules, who never object
to water.
The phaeton was driven over by a native, and
at one time it looked as if he and the carriage and
184 SCENES IN HAWAII.
Hop would all swim off together towards the sea,
so deep were the waters ; however, .we were all
landed at last in safety, and I was deeply relieved
when we were able to start in our proper order
again. There was a capital bridge built a little
lower down, but the ends were not finished so that
a carriage could go on it ; but after that experience
I found I could walk across it well enough, and.
wait while the carriage was driven across the ford.
We drove on across a flat sandy road, passing the
mill at Waimea, and came in sight at sun down of
Kekaha plantation, which is built almost on the
sea shore, the cane fields running up all towards the
mountains.
We passed a pretty house with a fountain and
flower garden, and drove through a sort of com-
pound in which were some grass huts, and taro
patches beyond, and finally drew up in front of a
modern house, one story as usual, with a wide
verandah running round three sides, and shaded by
some splendid mangoe trees. In a few minutes we
were welcomed by the master of the house, a most
kind courteous friend to us, and installed in a
large and comfortable bed-room charmingly fur-
nished, and we soon were at supper, where the
SCENES IN HAWAII. 185
host and his partner served the most delicious
coffee I have ever tasted. Being both Germans,
coffee was a necessity, and their little Vienna
machine certainly produced a most excellent form
of that beverage, strong, hot, and fragrant ; here we
were introduced to the German combinations of food
which are put up in tins in Germany, and thus find
their way so many thousands cf miles. Cabbage
with vinegar, small sausages, big sausages, cheeses
all new to us, fish of a kind unknown to our primi-
tive ideas, and other things excellent in their way
were pressed on us.
While at Kekaha we had fresh cocoa nuts fre-
quently ; a native boy climbing up the trees, many
of which grew close by, and bringing the young
green fruit down for us ; in that state the meat was
a delicate white pulp to be eaten with a spoon
from the shell, and the milk was very cool and
pleasant on a warm day ; and the days are generally
warm at Kekaha. It was a cooler period than had
been experienced for a long time, during our stay
there, and seldom the therometer went below 75 in
the shade, but the air was so softly tempered by
the sea breezes, that we rarely felt the heat oppres-
sive The air is extremely dry at Kekaha, more so
186 SCENES IN HAWAII.
than in other parts of the island, and is most benefi-
cial to anyone suffering - from rheumatism or
neuralgia ; several cases were brought to our notice,
cases of severity as well as of long standing which
gave way to the salubrious effect of the soft dry
atmosphere.
In the rides and drives about one saw many
novel and curious sights. The river, or rather the
valley of the Waimea is a purely native settlement,
and the huts are of every size and shape, almost
buried under glowing foliage of every hue.
Oranges are particularly good there, and riding
past a pretty little grass hut one day, we were
attracted by the sight of a fine tall orange tree in
full blossom, and bearing, I should think hundreds
of the bright golden fruit ; I never saw a more
perfect specimen of an orange tree. The natives
swarmed in numbers through the valley, and they
would lie about in the laziest of attitudes, returning-
our "Alohas" with indifference.
Many lepers are these too,poor unhappy creatures,
but the movements of the Sheriff and his officers
are too closely watched for justice to be done as it
should. The fastnesses of the mountains are almost
inaccessible except to those who are born near
SCENES IN HAWAII. 187
there and in consequence, know of all the secret
hiding places which are sought immediately an
alarm is given. The word Molokai means of
course, banishment in its most awful sense, a living
death indeed ; and to escape this in isolated cases,
the whole Hawaiian race is being exterminated.
The Government have proposed making a retreat
for the lepers of Rauai on their own island, and I
may here copy from one of the Honolulu papers,
an account of an expedition of inquiry, undertaken
by the members of the Board of Health to satisfy
themselves as to whether it was practical to do so.
" On Tuesday of last week His Excellency L. A.
Thurston, Minister of Interior, Dr. N. B. Emerson,
President of the Board of Health, and Mr. W. E.
Rowell, Superintendent of Public Works, all of
them members of the Board of Health, embarked
for Kauai on the steamer Mikahala. They re-
turned by the same steamer on Sunday, when a
representative of this paper obtained from the
President of the Board an account of the ex-
pedition.
" By an arrangement with the captain of the
boat, with the consent of Mr. G. N. Wilcox, an
I. I. S. N. Co. director, the Mikahala called at
INS SCENES IN HAWAII.
the valley of Kalalau on the morning of Thurs-
day. Leaving Waimea they steamed along the
coast for about 18 miles. The view of the
mountain cliffs was wonderful, the carving of
nature being declared by the members of the
party as unsurpassed on these islands in beauty
and sublimity. This was especially true of the
pinnacles and gorges next to the above named
valley. The mountains back are 4,000 or 5,000
feet of elevation at their highest. The only ac-
cess to the valley is by difficult trail over the
mountains, or by another trail along the precipitous
cliffs of the coast in the direction of Haena, on
the Hanalei side. During nearly six months
access by boats is forbidden on account of the
breakers, the sand of the beach for that time
being washed away so as to leave nothing but a
rocky beach. This stormy period lasts from
October or November to March or April.
"The expedition left the steamer in boats and
were carried through the surf in canoes, making
very exciting business for which the party pre-
pared by removing their foot gear. They found
a fine sandy beach of about 200 feet in breadth
to the overhanging bluffs. There horses were
SCENES IN HAWAII. 189
found in waiting, on which they rode to the
village, a distance of about a third — or half a mile,
accompanied by a large number of the population,
which altogether approaches sixty or seventy souls,
including about twelve lepers and one Chinaman,
The rest of the population are a fine, healthy lot
of people, above the average for large and sym-
metrical physique. There was notably a healthy
looking band of children, numbering twenty-three,
attending the school.
" The food resources of the valley are abundant.
There are at least seventy-five acres of land either
under cultivation in taro or capable of being so
cultivated. Many more acres are suitable for
raising Irish or sweet potatoes, yams, bananas,
sugar cane, etc. There is a fine stream of water
which in the present dry month is more than
ample for all necessities, irrigation as well as
household.
•' Reaching the settlement, the expedition rode
inland far enough to gain a fair view of the
larger part of the valley, thus assuring themselves
of its extent and resources."
This is the valley to which the lepers of the Is-
land of Kauai are said to desire to be transferred.
190 SCENES IN HAWAII.
that they may here be segregated from the rest of
the people, and thus be permitted to escape removal
to the leper settlement at Kalawao. It was with
the purpose of gaining accurate information on this
point, and seeing for themselves how the land lay,
that these three members of the Board of Health
made this visit to the valley.
The cane at Kekaha was a marvellous sight, so
enormous in height, thickness and quantity. Some
of the sugar canes were thirty feet high, and we
tried to count the number of sticks growing in one
stool, as it is called, a clump in other words, and
after counting thirty-six, we gave up in despairj the
crops of sugar of course'are enormous, eight tons of
sugar to an acre, and over seven and five tons for
the second and third growths, or ratoons, as they
are called.
But to cap this, comes the question of irrigation,
all surface water is brackish, and in consequence
artesian wells have to be sunk in every direction,
and pumped into the flumes to water the fields, the
wells are kept going by steam power, and with
coal at sixteen dollars a ton, it seems difficult to
know how such huge .expenses can be met to any
advantage. Some years ago the profits were so
SCENES IN HAWAII. 191
large that it seemed as though the planters must
make large fortunes in a very few years, and they
did, but when the Germans swept the markets of
the world with their beetroot sugar, the splendid
cane sugar sank into the background, and has con-
tinued to sink ; whether it will rise, is a question ?
I trow not, while the foreign labour clamours for
high wages, and the native coolie is unknown.
The water was often quite hot shortly after
leaving the pumping house, and the servants used
to be able to get hot water a few yards away with-
out trouble ; there seemed to be an immeuse
quantity of lime also in the water, and if the kettle
was not carefully attended to it would get a solid
incrustation of lime inside, leaving only a few
inches of space for the water. Though sparkling
and clear, it induced great thirst if much was drank,
and there was a story told of a visitor, who drank
the delightfully cold water with great avidity the
first day of his arrival, at night he was still thirsty,
and a large jug of water was left in his room for
him ; sleep fled however, the thirst still continued,
and by morning both jugs were emptied, as well as
the water bottle.
Near our temporary home, was a large native
192 SCENES IN HAWAII.
grass hut to which an addition had evidently been
intended, as part of the roof and one side were done,
but Hawaiian laziness had stopped just then, and
there seemed little prospect of its being finished.
In the habitable part lived a large native woman,
with a shock of curly white hair, who invariably
wore immense gold rimmed spectacles. She was a
" lady doctor," and appeared to have a large num-
ber of patients judging from the visitors constantly
about the house. Passing there one day I was
greatly edified to see the old dame sitting a la
turque, her spectacles imparting a most learned air
to her countenance, in front of her open fire in the
ground, reading from a large book spread on her
lap to an attentive audience : it was the Bible !
While at Kekaha, a kind friend sent me a present
of some squid, as a rarity, but I did not much care
to try it, so our host suggested my giving it to the
old lady Kahuna, so we walked down to the hut
and found her squatting over the fire of embers, on
which was a tin pot of water ; on asking if anyone
was ill, after receiving her thanks for the squid
she said, "Ai, my husband is sick inside, he no like
cold water to drink, so I make it warm." And she
accordingly dipped her finger in now and then to
SCENES IN HAWAII. 193
see if it was the right temperature. I peeped into
the hut and saw a man lying on some dirty mats
with a little child nestling beside him, they both
looked up with their big black eyes but said
nothing, so after looking at the untidy place
heaped up with all kinds of things, I dropped the
mat which served for a door and was glad to breathe
the pure air once more. We left the old dame still
testing the water with her finger !
The same old Native met me one day when we
were both riding ; she had a huge piece of sugar
cane, several feet long, which she was tearing with
her teeth to extract the sweet juice, and on seeing
me she gave her horse a kick, grinned from ear to
ear, and held out her sugar cane with a most cordial
air of invitation to taste. I never cared much for
the sugar cane, it was so tough and fibrous, and
such a lot of trouble to get at the juice, but the
natives young and old are excessively fond of it,
and many white people too.
One warm day our kind host asked us to come and
see the far famed Blue Lake, and we accepted the in-
vitation at once, as we knew from hearsay of this
extraordinary phenomenon. We mounted and set
off along a good road, but dusty, until after leaving
r 3
194 SCENES IN HAWAII.
the actual road itself shaded by mangoe trees, we
emerged on a broad plain, bounded on one side by
the ocean, and on the other by frowning heights.
The sides of the mountain range being in this
place darker, and more bare of foliage than I saw
them anywhere else ; deep gulches however, made
a welcome break in the red earth and rock, shew-
ing cool and green in their grassy depths.
In many parts of Kauai the grass is infested with
a small seed, called " piddy grass," which is most
troublesome to anyone walking, as it covers the
lower part of ones garments for several inches,
and can only be got rid of by a violent scraping of
the cloth with the back of a knife, a brush not
being hard enough.
But here at Kekaha the grass was soft, spongy,
and a blue green colour, delightful to walk or ride
on, and most nourishing feed for animals. On the
plain were many clumps of cocoa-nuts, and herds
of cattle feeding in all directions ; we crossed a
slight depression in the ground, ascended a low hill,
or rather rise, and before us lay the lovely Blue
Lake.
It lay immediately in front of our path, surround-
ed the wide plain, which formed a bank, on which
SCENES IN HAWAII. 195
were ferns in varied beauty ; the tall cocoa-nut
palms waved their graceful feathery heights over
the clear blue water, which seemed to mirror all in
its crystal reflections ; cattle stood enjoying the
cool depths to their knees, the hot sun seemed to
give a deeper, more intense hue to the water even
as we looked, and a simultaneous " How lovely "
came from us both. The shimmering waters of
the broad Pacific on one side, and the rocky coast
beyond, seemed to be a perfect perspective for this
exquisite picture ; after gazing for a long time, we
moved on to see if we could ford the lake, or skirt
round it to reach the " Barking Sands " just beyond.
The lake apparently was but a short distance, and
every moment we expected to get a nearer view of
it ; (a clearer one, could not be,) but as we rode, we
appeared not to get closer, we passed the cocoa
palms, the cattle, but still no water ; suddenly, as
though in a vision, the lovely Blue Lake was gone.
We looked, and looked again, but only bare sand met
the eye ; we rode on, completely bewildered, when
our host said, " Now, look back." We did so and
there behind us was the crystal lake, mirroring the
palms and the cattle laving the blue waters, but
although, apparently, we must have gone through
19(3 SCENES [X HAWAII.
the deepest part, our own senses told us that we
had come entirely on dry land.
The Blue Lake of Kekaha was a mirage, and a
mirage as must be seldom seen except in the far
East, and even there one could not meet with a
more complete transformation than was presented
to the eye in those dry and sandy plains in the
space of a few moments time.
No scientific explanation has been given, that I
know of, of this marvel of nature; the soil is strongly
impregnated with salt, and would be very rich if
cultivated, but let us hope that the hand of man
will leave undisturbed the sweet, placid waters of
the pictured Blue Lake.
Quite close at hand was a large plot of ground
which was said to be a most dangerous quick-
sand, the surface was very light in colour, and
much cracked ; we, not believing in the danger, tried
one day to drive across, the mule refused several
places, and was very uneasy, as if the animal was
aware that there was something wrong, but after
a little judicious coaxing, we managed to skirt
the treacherous bog without evil results.
The rocky coast is rugged and stern, but the
spray from the breakers leaping high in the clear
SCENES IN HAWAII. 197
air, makes a delightful fresh atmostphere, and we
enjoyed wandering about, picking up the numerous
shells of all kinds which strew the beach.
The " Barking Sands " are long, low hillocks of
sea sand which, after a period of dry, hot weather,
will, when stamped on, give out a curious bark-
ing sound, like that of an angry dog. It is said
that this comes from the sand being composed
of myriads of tiniest shells, which when pressed
with sudden violence make the sound I have
mentioned.
How true this version may be I cannot tell, but
the plains of Kekaha are certainly rich in marvels.
At the extreme end of the plains another planta-
tion has been taken up, and though the area
cannot be very large the soil is so rich that the
large crops of sugar will repay the enterprizing
planter ; the isolation will be great, but the situa-
tion a scene of surpassing beauty.
There are many Swedes and Norwegians on
this side of Kauai, and one of the partners in
Kekaha plantation was a Swede, who lived in the
pretty house alluded to, which had a fountain in
front, and when hearing many voices in the
Norse language, the effect is very curious, that
198 SCENES IN HAWAII.
tongue being more nasal and guttral than even
the North German.
We left Kekaha with the warmest remember-
ances of all the kind welcomes extended to us,
and after stopping to bid adieu to Mrs. Sinclair
and her family, we drove back to Elle-Elle,
where at Waihiava Ranche, we passed a charm-
ing visit of a fortnight, at the white house, nestled
at the foot of the hills.
This ranche was a splendid estate, hundreds of
cattle roaming over the hills and plains ; and most
curious to see were the innumerable flocks of
turkeys which one met everywhere in walks, or
drives, or rides. Originally, I suppose they had
been tame and in small numbers, but gradually
wandering from the home yard, had gone farther
away, and finally brought out their young ones in
all sorts of inaccessible places, for a turkey hen
loves to make her nest where no human hand can
find it. And though we saw flocks of dozens in
each, quite close to the garden fence, yet in the
rockiest paths, .or most silent gulches, we would
suddenly hear the peculiar cry of the bird when
disturbed, and they would fly off the trees like
pheasants.
SCENES IN HAWAII. 199
The house was charming, so large, though only
one story, but a range of pretty little cottage rooms
ran down at right angles with the main building,
connected with each other by a wide verandah.
The rides up the mountain which rose up almost
immediately behind the house were lovely, such a
wide vista to look out on, bounded only by the sea ;
groves of bamboo, and coffee bushes were in abund-
ance, and solitary trees of koa shewed where this
beautiful wood had once flourished in abundance.
On the sea shore were splendid shells, so richly
marked ; and close by the pools where we looked
for them, were rocky ponds from which salt was
taken in large quantities, dried, and exported, but
I heard it was not so remunerative as to make
the exportation a large business.
Looking up from the " shelling," we were engaged
on one day, I saw the rocks were very high, and
curved round into a horse-shoe shape almost, run-
ning inland several hundred yards ; and at various
distances, some twenty feet from the ground, one
could perceive apertures in the face of the rocks,
almost like open doorways, apparently only reached
by a narrow ledge marked in the rocks.
i^OO SCENES IN HAWAII.
I asked my companion, one of the charming
daughters of our kind hostess of Waihiava what it
meant, and she said they were supposed to be
graves of natives, probably chiefs, whose bodies,
after being embalmed were carefully deposited in
these caves, and the natives to this day dislike ex-
tremely any stranger to look into them. It seemed
to bring the fact of the eastern fashion of putting
the mummies into caves in rocks to one's mind, but
there could scarcely be any connection, one would
think.
There was a collection of native curiosities in the
room of the young master of the house, calabashes,
mats, spears, stone poi pounders, etc., and the most
perfect specimens of tapa cloth I saw while in the
Islands ; great rolls of the cloth had been given to
him, some new, and some old, bright colours and
dull, and some with deep borders would have
looked most quaint as curtains, and one square
piece would have done for a table cloth ; they were
exceptionally fine and well made, and no doubt
before long it will be as difficulty to get tapa cloth
from Hawaii, as it is to get silk from China.
We said good bye to Waihiava and our kind
SCENES IN HAWAII. 201
and gentle hostess, and drove to Koloa one fine
day, where we spent the night with the Judge,
and the following day reached our destination for
a short visit to some friends at Hanamoula, where
indeed the offices of the good Samaritan were called
into requisition, for a violent cold detained one of
our party there for several days and the hospi-
tality extended can never be forgotten.
Captain L'Orange was a Swede, also his wife,
and we heard many interesting stories of his sea-
faring life before settling in Kauai ; Madame
L'Orange was a notable housekeeper, and she
told me of some quaint dishes customary in her
country, and one day introduced us to beer soup,
and rye bread with carraway seeds in it! also a
strong liquor made very sweet, flavoured strongly
with aniseed, which is frequently given in Sweden
before dinner, to be eaten with a certain kind of
hard dry biscuit as an appetizer.
The linen of the household was the finest, and
most elaborate I ever saw, even the pillow cases
and sheets being most beautifully worked by hand :
on each large pillow lay a tiny one, with a blue
202 SCENES IN HAWAII.
covering, and over that a second cover of finest
cambric, with a large monogram embroidered in
the centre, and edged with work to correspond.
It is probable much the same custom as obtains
in Germany, for each young. Swedish maiden to
vie with the other for the possession of a large
stack of household linen, which is kept, and added
to, to be in readiness for the wedding day.
We were almost at the end of our journey when
we said a regretful good-bye at Hanamoula, and
that same afternoon reached Kapaa where we spent
a few days at Mr. Dole's before wending our way
to Kilauea, where we found everything in capital
order, and though Sin Fat expressed pleasure at
our return, he two days later, as I have said before,
I. firmly believe, walked off with some valuables ;
with celestial cunning, he waited until we had re-
turned, found things all safe, and. then expressed
sorrow that he had left the door open one night !
No doubt, to make way for a friendly thief ! We
were always so glad we had been enabled to take
the trip round Kauai, thereby enabling us to see
more varieties of life in a short time than we could
SURNKS IX HAWAII. j!03
possibly have done in any other way, as the many
difficulties in merely travelling about would have
deterred us, but with the phaeton, the mules, and
Johnnie, we were quite independent of steamers
and stages, and have, amongst our many happy re-
collections, this last chapter of
"SCENES IN HAWAII."
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