Full text of "School needlework. A course of study in sewing designed for use in schools"

LIBRARY

OF THE

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA.

'Received J^iz^z^ * ,

Accessions No. 3^7 - CAzss No.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK

A Course of Study in Sewing designed
for use in Schools

OLIVE C. HAPGOOD

TEACHER OK SEWING IN BOSTON PUBLIC SCHOOLS

" Learn the sound qualities of alt useful stuffs, and make everything
of the best you can get, whatever its price. , . . and then, every day, make
some little piece of useful clothing, sewn with your own fingers as strongly
as it can be stitched ; and embroider it or otherwise beautify it moderately
with fine needlework, such as a girl may be proud of having done.' 1 ' 1

JOHN RUSKIN.

TEACHER'S EDITION

0? THE

[UNIVERSITY

BOSTON, U.S.A.
& COMPANY, PUBLISHERS
1893

0tnn & Company
Btbenieum press
Boston

PREFACE.

THE importance of instruction in sewing in the Public
School is now generally recognized. As manual training
comes into greater prominence, new methods and helps
are necessary. The demand for these was felt by the
author, and this book is the result of practical experience
in the class-room. Its purpose is to assist both teacher
and pupil ; lightening the teacher's labors by saving
constant repetition, and giving the pupil a manual for
reference, with the hope that the information thus ac-
quired will assist in fitting her for the duties of life.
Simplicity with completeness has been the aim through-
out.

In the teacher's edition, the work is further supple-
mented by practical hints and suggestions as to successful
methods of teaching the lessons, and by courses of study
for Kindergarten, Primary, and Industrial Sewing. It
also contains a list of articles obtainable for a sewing
cabinet, and talks on kindred subjects.

The author wishes to acknowledge her indebtedness to
the teachers who have so kindly assisted her, and to
members of the School Board for their advice and interest
in the preparation of the work

CONTENTS.

PART I. PAGE

GENERAL DIRECTIONS i

PART II.
PLAIN SEWING --- 13

PART III.

ORNAMENTAL STITCHES - - 115

PART IV.

DRAFTING, CUTTING AND MAKING GARMENTS - 129

TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT.

TEACHING THE LESSONS - - - - - 163

COURSE OF SEWING - - 172

PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS - 176

KINDERGARTEN SEWING - 187

PRIMARY SEWING 199

COURSE OF SEWING FOR INDUSTRIAL SCHOOLS - - - 220

FACTS FOR OBSERVATION LESSONS - 222

SCHOOL-CABINET ... 239

INDEX

243

PART I.

GENERAL DIRECTIONS.

DEAR GIRLS : You have now become old enough to
prepare for woman's duties ; one of these is the art of
sewing, which we will take up as simply as possible. By
following the given directions carefully, you will become
able to dress your dolls, assist your mothers in mending,
make garments, fancy articles, etc.

A convenient outfit for your school sewing consists of
a bag large enough to hold certain necessary materials
and the garment to be made. The bag should be made
of dark or medium-colored cloth, so that it may not soil
easily, and should have a strong gathering tape.

The following articles are needed. i . Half a yard of
bleached or half-bleached cotton cloth for a trial-piece
and sample work.

2. Spools of white cotton, Nos. 40-80, also one of No.
50 colored cotton for basting.

3. A well-fitting silver or celluloid thimble, for the
second finger of the right hand.

4. An emery bag to brighten the needle, when it does
not go through the cloth easily.

5. A paper of Nos. 5-10 ground-down needles.

6. A pinball well filled with small pins.

7. A tape measure.

8. A piece of wax.

2 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

9. A pair 6f scissors, for girls in the higher classes.

Your name should be written with ink on the bag,
paper of needles, spools of thread, and sample cloth. An
easy way to remember the necessary articles is to let the
hand represent the cloth ; the thumb, the bag ; the first
finger, the spools of cotton ; the second finger, the thimble
and emery bag ; the third finger, the needles and pins ;
and the fourth finger, the tape measure and wax.

Directions for putting away the work, i . Before fold-
ing the work, run the needle in and out of the cloth, near
the last stitches, so as to keep it secure and aid in finding
the place at the next sewing lesson.

2. To fold the work, smooth it out, fold it lengthwise
and narrow enough to go into the bag ; then fold it the
opposite way.

3. Put the thimble into the bag first, as it is apt to be
forgotten.

4. After all the articles are placed in the bag, draw it
up closely.

5. Wind the tape tightly around the bag until about
six inches of it are left.

6. Place two fingers of the left hand over the coil of
tape, and wind once over the fingers and around che bag.

7. As the fingers are withdrawn, slip the end of the
tape through, and draw tightly.

If the above directions are carefully observed, no girl
should report any missing article at the next lesson.

Directions for sewing. I . Be very careful to have clean
hands.

2. Sit in an erect position, never resting any part of
the arm on the desk.

3. Do not fasten the work to the desk or knee.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK. 3

* 4. Never sew without a thimble, either the top or the
side of it can be used.

5. Do not put the work or thread to the mouth, as
that will soil it.

6. In plain sewing, begin to sew at the end of the
cloth, or at a seam, holding the part of the work not sewed
in tJic left hand.

7. When scissors are not used, to break the thread
place the left thumb-nail firmly over the last stitches ;
wind the thread around the right forefinger, and break
the thread with the right thumb-nail.

8. Do all sewing nicely, making the stitches small and
even, having the wrong side look as neat as possible, and
sewing the corners with great care.

9. When obliged to take out the stitches, use the eye
of a needle, and pick out one stitch at a time ; in stitch-
ing, pick out the thread on one side, then on the other.

10. Before showing the work to the teacher, fasten the
needle securely in the work.

We will call the fleshy or soft part of the forefinger a
sewing cushion.

What are the necessary articles for school sewing? Upon which finger is the
thimble worn ? For what is an emery bag used ? Where should the needle be placed
before putting away the work ? What should first be put into the bag ? Why should
the bag be tied up carefully ? In what condition should the hands be ? How should
a child sit while sewing? Should the work be fastened to the desk or knee?
Should you ever sew without a thimble ? Should the work or thread be put to the
mouth ? Why ? In plain sewing where should you begin to sew ? In which hand
should the part of the work not sewed be held ? How should the thread be broken ?
How ought all sewing to be done ? Where should great care be taken ? What is
called the sewing cushion ?

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

NEEDLES AND THREAD.

Needles. A needle is a small piece of steel, pointed at
one end, and having an eye at the other to receive a
thread.

Needles are of various sizes and shapes, according to
the uses for which they are intended.

Three kinds of needles are used in sewing on cotton
cloth, sharps, ground-downs, and betweens ; the sizes
range from No. I, the largest, to No. 12, the smallest.
Sharps are long needles, ground-downs are shorter, and
betweens are still shorter. Ground-downs are excellent
for school use, as they do not bend or break easily.
Betweens are used for heavy work.

Worsted and darning needles are used for yarn, and
are of different sizes. Worsted needles have a long eye,
and either a sharp or a blunt point. A very long needle
is used in millinery work. A bodkin or tape needle has a
long eye, and is used for running tape into a hem or
casing.

Let us examine our paper of needles. It is assorted
so that we may have needles suitable for all kinds of
stitches. To open it, place a ringer between the folds of
the paper and separate them. Now, opening the sides
and short ends which cover the needles, we find twenty-
five needles in a secure case. Keep them in their places
so that we may know the proper size to use for the thread
or stitch. Beginning at the middle, we find three No. 5
needles, which should be used only with very coarse
thread ; they are suitable for sewing on boot-buttons, etc.
The needles on each side are alike, so following down one

NEEDLES AND THREAD. 5

side, we find two No. 6 needles, used for sewing on coarse
materials ; next are three No. 7 needles, suitable for hem-
ming on towels, etc. ; then there are three No. 8 needles,
for stitching ; next are two No. 9 needles, used in hem-
ming cotton cloth ; and the last is a No. 10 needle, for
very fine work.

After taking out a needle, fold and tie up the paper so
that none may drop out. Never use a bent needle, as it
makes uneven stitches. In passing a needle, hand the
eye of the needle to the person, keeping the point towards
yourself.

Thread, A small twist made from flax, silk, cotton, or
wool, is called thread. Thread made from flax is called
linen thread, and is very strong. Thread made from silk
is called silk or twist, and is used when sewing on nice
textures. Cotton thread can be obtained in many num-
bers, and is used when sewing on wash goods ; the finer
the thread, the higher the number. Thread made from
wool is called yarn, worsted, zephyr, etc., and is used for
darning, canvas-work, and fancy-work.

A new spool of thread can be unfastened by slipping a
pin under the thread, where it is caught in the wood. To
unwind the thread, hold the spool in the left hand, with
the end of the thread between two fingers. Unwind the
thread until it is of the required length. Break it by
holding it securely in each hand, and snapping it across
the ends of the thumbs. When not using a spool of
thread, keep the end of the thread fastened in the
wood.

Use a piece of thread the length of the desk, or about
as long as the arm. When using very fine thread, take
a shorter needleful. If the thread kinks, remove the

6 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

needle, and beginning at the work, draw the thread tightly
between the thumb-nail and the end of the forefinger.
To prevent thread from kinking, thread the needle with
the end that hangs from the spool. When using double
thread, as in gathering, sewing on buttons, etc., before
making the knot, draw the double thread, beginning at
the needle, across the wax.

Threading the needle. i . Sit erect, bringing the needle
and thread as close to the eyes as necessary.

2. Roll the end of the thread between the thumb and
cushion of the forefinger, so as to twist it tightly.

3. Hold the needle steadily between the thumb and
forefinger of the left hand, with the eye a little above.

4. Take the end of the thread between the thumb and
forefinger of the right hand, letting about half-an-inch
protrude, and put the thread through the eye of the
needle.

If preferred, the thread can be held in the left hand,
and the eye of the needle passed over it.

To aid in threading a round-eyed needle with worsted
or loosely twisted thread, a few fibres of cotton-batting or
a fine thread can be rolled over the end. Waxing the
end of the thread before rolling it, is also helpful.

Threading a long-eyed needle. i . Hold the end of the
zephyr between the left thumb and forefinger, allowing
half-an-inch to show.

2. Place the pointed end of the needle on the cushion
of the forefinger, and over the zephyr.

3. With the left thumb fold the end of the zephyr
tightly over the needle.

4. Withdraw the needle, and pass the eye of the
needle over the loop of zephyr.

NEEDLES AND THREAD. 7

Knots. To make a knot, as in Fig. I, wind the thread
around two or three fingers,
and crossing it, put the end
through the loop.

To bring a knot closs to the
end of the thread. i. With
the thumb and forefinger of the Fig. I . Showing the thread
right hand, take hold of the in a knot before !t is drawn U P"
thread a few inches from the end.

2. Wind the end around the forefinger of the left hand,
about midway of the finger-nail.

3. Pressing tightly, roll the end of the thread down-
ward on the side of the thumb, twisting it once or
twice.

4. Bring the second finger upon the thumb, and over
the thread.

5. Lifting the forefinger, draw up the thread with the
right hand.

The knot can also be made with the right hand.

To fasten the thread in sewing, take two or three stitches
in the same place, or sew back a few stitches. Fasten
silk very securely as it is apt to work out.

When learning to sew, it is best to use colored thread
on white cloth, as it makes the stitches plainer, and mis-
takes are more easily seen. For colored work, choose
thread or silk a shade darker than the material, as it will
work lighter. Twist is twirled the opposite way from
cotton thread.

The size of the needle and thread to be used, depends
upon the quality of the work. A coarse needle and thread
are used for coarse work, and a fine needle and thread for
fine work.

8 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

The numbers of needles and thread needed for the
different kinds of stitches in cotton cloth :

Hemming, ")

_ . . r No. 9 needle, No. 70 or 80 thread.

Tucking, )

Running, "^

f No. 8 needle, No. 50 or 60 thread.
Overhandmg,

Overcasting, J

Button-holes, No. 7 or 8 needle, No. 40 or 50 thread.

Basting,

Gathering, ' N ' 7 r 8 needle > Na 3^ or 40 thread.

What is a needle ? Why is an assorted paper of needles necessary ? Why should
they be kept in their places in the paper ? Why should the paper of needles be kept
tied up ? How should a needle be passed to any one ? What is thread ? What is
thread made from flax called ? What is thread made from silk called ? What is said
about cotton thread? What is thread made from wool called? How is thread
broken from the spool ( How long a piece of thread should be used ? If it kinks
what should be done ? Which end of the thread should be put into the needle ?
What is done to the end of the thread before threading the needle ? What part of
the finger should the thread be wound around, in order to bring a knot close to the
end of the thread ? How many times should the thread be twisted, when rolling it
down the side of the thumb ? What is the next thing to do ? Next ? How is thread
fastened in sewing ? When should a coarse needle and thread be used ? A fine
needle and thread ? What size needle and thread should be used on cotton cloth for
hemming? tucking? running? stitching? overhanding? overcasting? button-holes?
basting? gathering?

CLOTH.

Cloth is a fabric woven from cotton, wool, linen, or silk.
Cotton is the cheapest, and silk the most expensive in
price. From cotton are made many qualities of un-
bleached, half-bleached, and bleached cloth, also calicoes,
ginghams, muslins, nainsooks, cambrics, etc. From wool
are made flannels, cashmeres, and many varieties of dress
goods. Linen cloth is made in all grades, from the finest
linen lawn to heavy canvas ; it is generally used for

CLOTH. 9

collars, cuffs, handkerchiefs, table-cloths, napkins, towels,
etc. Silk is made into dress-silks, ribbons, satins, vel-
vets, etc. Soft, pliable, white cotton cloth (often called
muslin) of medium quality is best for a beginner to use
at first.

The threads of the cloth are called the warp and the
woof. The threads running lengthwise are the zuarp,
those running across from selvedge to selvedge are the
woof ; both can be easily seen on a piece of coarse crash.
The warp is usually stronger than the woof, and for this
reason, any part of a garment requiring strength, should
be cut lengthwise of the cloth.

Cloth is woven straight, but is sometimes drawn out of
shape by pressing. When you can ravel a thread the
width or length of the cloth, it is straight, or will become
so after washing. If it looks uneven, it can be drawn
into place by stretching it on the bias. Calico, when
torn, often looks very uneven, and should be pulled into
shape.

The selvedge of cloth is the finished lengthwise edge,
and cannot be ravelled. The raw edge is the edge that
is cut or torn. A fold is the edge made by doubling one
part of the cloth over the other. The nap is the shaggy
substance on the surface of the cloth. To tear a piece of
cloth, cut in one inch by a thread, then, holding a corner
of the cut between the thumb and forefinger of each
hand, roll the edges from you, and tear steadily ; a fine
piece of cloth must be torn carefully.

What is cloth ? Name some kinds of cloth made from cotton ; from wool; from
linen ; from silk. What are the threads of the cloth running lengthwise of the goods
called ? Those running across ? How can you tell when a piece of cotton cloth is
straight ? If it looks uneven, how can it be drawn into shape ? What is the selvedge
of cloth ? The raw edge ? What is a fold ? How should a piece of cloth be torn ?

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

SCISSORS AND CUTTING.

A pair of scissors is an instrument used for cutting,
consisting of two blades crossing each other, and moving
on a pivot.

Scissors are of many sizes. Large scissors are called
shears (Fig. 2, c), and small scissors with the ends of the
blades rounded are called pocket scissors (Fig. 2, d\ as
they are convenient to carry in the pocket. In shears,
the round bow is for the thumb, and the oval bow is for
two of the fingers ; one blade is more pointed than the
other, and when cutting this blade should be held down-

Fig. 2. a, Showing ladies' scissors ; b, button-hole scissors ;
i; shears ; d, pocket scissors,

ward. In button-hole scissors (Fig. 2, b) a screw is
attached to regulate the size of the button-hole. When
passing scissors, hand the bows to the person, keeping
the point towards yourself.

In order to cut straight, draw out a thread of the cloth,
and cut along the line thus made (for drawing a thread,
see page 1 16). In materials from which a thread cannot
be easily drawn, fold the cloth where it is to be cut, pin
the selvedges together on each side, crease, and cut on
the crease. In materials in which the threads are plainly

SCISSORS AND CUTTING.

I I

marked, either by plaids or stripes, there is no need of
drawing a thread or folding the cloth.

Pig. 3. Showing a bias cut. Fig. 4. Showing an exact bias cut.

To cut bias, cut on a slanting line across both the warp
and the woof.

To cut an exact bias, lay the selvedge or a warp thread
of the cloth, on a line with a woof thread, and cut on the
fold.

What is a pair of scissors? Name the different kinds of scissors. How should
shears be held ? How can cloth be cut straight ? How can it be cut when a thread
is not easily drawn? How is an exact bias cut?

PART II.

PLAIN SEWING.

Sewing is work done with the needle and thread.
The following directions should be before the pupil
during class work. 1

Fig. 5. Measure.

The above represents a three inch rule, to use when
certain measurements are required. The first inch is
divided into halves and quarters, the second inch into
eighths, and the third inch into sixteenths.
Fractions of a yard :

3 feet or 36 inches is a yard.

27 inches is three quarters of a yard.

1 8 inches is one half of a yard.

9 inches is a quarter of a yard.

4^ inches is an eighth of a yard.

2^ inches is a sixteenth of a yard.

' How many inches in a yard ? Three quarters of a yard ? One half ? A quarter ?
An eighth ? A sixteenth ?

1 The illustrations generally represent the stitches enlarged.

14 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

DRILLS.

Drill No, 1, For practice in using the needle and
thimble.

Materials. A needle and a thimble.

Directions. i . Place the thimble on the second finder

of the right hand.

2. Hold the pointed end of the needle between the end
of the thumb and forefinger of the right hand.

3. Place the thimble on the eye of the needle.

4. Push the needle between the thumb and forefinger,
being careful not to cramp the other fingers.

5. With the left hand push the point back into its
former position.

6. Repeat until it can be done easily.

Drill No. 2. For practice in the motion of stitching,
hemming, etc.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a strip of
white cotton cloth.

\
Fig. 6 Showing the work and hands in position.

Directions. I . Thread the needle, but make no knot.
2. Hold the cloth over the forefinger of the left hand,

DRILLS. I 5

keeping it in place with the thumb and second finger, as
in Fig. 6.

3. Hold the needle between the thumb and the fore-
finger of the right hand.

4. Insert the needle from right to left, taking up a
little of the cloth, and push the needle nearly through.

5. Take the pointed end of the needle between the
thumb and cushion of the forefinger of the right hand.

6. Draw the needle and thread through, bringing the
thimble finger down near the forefinger, with the thread
passing between the third and little fingers. Keep the
little finger nearly straight to guide the thread.

7. Repeat until the motion is learned.

Drill No. 3. For practice in the motion of basting,
running, gathering, etc.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a strip
of cotton cloth.

Fig. 7. Showing the work and hands in position.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Directions. I. Have the needle threaded, but make
no knot.

2. Hold the cloth between the thumb and forefinger
of each hand, as in Fig. 7.

3. With the right elbow away from the side, put the
point of the needle through a few threads of the cloth,
placing the thumb and forefinger of the right hand over it.

4. Pressing the end of the thimble against the eye of
the needle, take three or more stitches in the cloth over
the cushion of the left forefinger, moving only the elbow
joint. (Fig. 7.)

5. Draw the needle and thread through as in Drill
No. 2.

6. Repeat until the motion is learned.

Drill No. 4. For practice in the motion of overcasting.
Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a folded
edge of cotton cloth.

Fig. 8. Showing the work and hand in position.

Directions. I. Have the needle threaded, but make
no knot.

DRILLS. I/

2. Hold the fold of the cloth slanting across the edge
of the cushion of the left forefinger, keeping it in place
with the thumb and second finger, as in Fig. 8.

3. Put the needle in from the back of the fold, point-
ing it towards the left shoulder.

4. Draw the needle and thread through as in Drill
No. 2.

Drill No. 5. For practice in the motion of over-
handing.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a folded
edge of cotton cloth.

Fig. 9. Showing the work and hand in position.

Directions. i. Have the needle threaded, but make no
knot.

2. Hold the fold of cloth horizontally along the edge
of the cushion of the left forefinger, and around the end'
of the finger, keeping it in place with the thumb and
second finger, as in Fig. 9.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

3. Hold the right elbow away from the side, without
bending the wrist, and so that the palm of the hand is
towards you.

4. Insert the needle from the back of the fold, point-
ing it directly towards the chest.

5. Draw the needle and thread through as in Drill
No. 2.

CANVAS-WORK.

The stitches in sewing can be easily learnt on canvas,
using bright-colored single or split zephyr, according to
the quality of the canvas.

pig. 10. Showing different stitches taken on canvas.

CREASING AND PINCHING. 19

Fig. 10 represents a corner of a square of canvas, with
the stitches taken in the following order: -

1. Uneven basting. 6. Catch-stitch.

2. Running. 7. Button-hole stitch.

3. Stitching. 8. Darning.

4. Overcasting. 9. The edges are worked with

5. Overhanding. the blanket or loop-stitch.

CREASING AND PINCHING.

A crease for sewing is made by folding the cloth, and
pressing the edge until a line is made, which serves to
sew on.

Materials, A ten-inch strip of bleached or half-
bleached cotton cloth. (A more distinct line can be
made on the bleached than on the half-bleached cotton
cloth.)

Fig. II. Showing the position of the hands.

Creasing. i . Hold the cloth firmly with the hands as

in Fig. 1 1.

2O SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

2. Beginning at the upper right-hand end of the cloth,
turn down towards you the edge one-fourth of an inch in
depth, for three or four inches.

3. Holding the cloth tightly between the hands, crease
the edge with the end of the thumb-nail and the cushion
of the left forefinger, until it will remain flat and has a
sharp edge.

4. Fold and crease the next three inches in the same
manner, and so continue to the end.

5. Holding the right-hand corner of the fold firmly,
crease the entire length.

Pinching-, i . At the right end of the crease, lay a
half-inch fold between the thumb and forefinger of the
right hand.

2. Lay another over this, and so on, until all the cloth
is folded.

3. Pinch the folds, and turn up the edge.

4. Turn the other side of the cloth towards you, and
the sharp edge will serve as a line to sew on.

If the cloth has been well creased, pinching is seldom
necessary.

What is a crease ? What purpose does it serve in sewing ? How should you
hold the cloth in creasing? At which end should you begin? Ho,v is the edge
turned ? ' How is it creased ? How should the edge of the fold look ? After the
cloth has been once creased, what should be done to the entire length ? After
turning up the edge, what should be done ? Why ?

BASTING.

Basting is done by taking long stitches to keep the
cloth in place for sewing.

Materials, No. 8 needle, No. 50 colored thread, pins,
and a half-yard strip of cotton cloth, with one of the long
sides creased.

Fig, 12. Showing even basting stitches, needle inserted.

In even basting, make the stitches short and alike on
both sides. This method of basting is used for the seams
of a dress-waist, or for several thicknesses of cloth.

Fig, 13, Showing uneven basting stitches, needle in position.

In uneven basting, take stitches half-an-inch long on
the upper side, and as small as possible on the under side.
This is the proper basting for ordinary work, as the
stitches serve for a guide in sewing.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

The basting, in Fig. 14, is done by taking one long
and two short stitches alternately.

M\0?3Mu^H%^llM*M*tw^

Fig. 14. Showing a method of basting used on heavy cloth,
needle in the proper position for putting away the work.

Basting, Practise Drill No. 3 (page 15).

1. Make a knot in the thread to hold it securely.

2. Begin at the right-hand side of the cloth.

3. Place the right-hand corners exactly together, hav-
ing the sharp edge of the crease towards you.

\******s*j{jtotlt***~*9& l ***6'' I\W/A\\I.-I/^ i"W ; ihWftfc*

Fig. 15. Showing the needle in position for beginning.

4. Insert the needle on the crease one-eighth of an
inch from the end of the cloth, and take up a few threads

(Fig. 15)-

5. Let the needle remain in the cloth, and pin the
opposite ends together, by placing a pin vertically through
the cloth.

6. Put a pin in the middle vertically.

STITCHING. 23

7. Draw the needle through, and proceed with the
basting required, holding the work as in Fig. 7 (page 15),
taking each stitch on the crease, and keeping the edges
even.

8. Fasten the thread securely by taking three or four
stitches in the same place.

Suggestions. Never sew without basting, or when the
threads are loose. If a child tries to sew without having
the work basted, it will pucker, and must be ripped out.
The short stitches on the under side keep the cloth in
place, and prevent it from slipping. Take short basting
stitches for hand work, but longer stitches may be taken
for machine sewing. When learning to baste, only one
stitch at a time should be taken, but later several stitches
can be taken before drawing the needle through. Basting
threads should be taken out when the work is finished.

How is basting done ? How are the stitches made in even basting ? For what
purpose is even basting used ? How should uneven basting stitches be taken ?
What is the first step in basting? Where begin? What should be done to the
corners ? How must the edges be held ? Where do you insert the needle ? Before
drawing it through, what should be done? Where should each stitch be taken?
How should the thread be fastened? What purpose do the short stitches on the
under side serve ? When the work is finished, what should be done ?

STITCHING.

Stitching is done by taking a stitch backward on the
upper side of the cloth, and a longer stitch forward on
the under side, making the stitches meet.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a half
yard strip of cotton cloth, doubled and basted.

Stitching. Practise Drill No. 2 (page 14).

2 4

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

1. Make a small knot in the thread.

2. Hold the work over the cushion of the left fore-
finger, as in Fig. 6 (page 14).

3. Insert the needle at the right-hand corner of the
cloth, between the edges of the seam, one-eighth of an
inch from the end, and one thread of the cloth below the
basting.

4. Draw the needle and thread through.

5. Put the point of the needle back a few threads from
where the needle comes through the cloth, and bring it
out the same distance beyond.

Fig. 16. Showing the stitches

6. Continue, putting the needle back each time into
the last stitch.

7. Make the stitches even and keep the seaia straight
(Fig. 1 6), leaving one thread of the cloth between the
stitches and the basting.

8. Fasten the thread, by inverting the cloth, and tak-
ing a few stitches directly over the last ones made.

9. Join the thread, by making a small knot, and con-
cealing it in the seam; or by taking one stitch with the
new thread, leaving half-an-inch of the thread to be
brought to the left, and to be sewed over with the next
few stitches, allowing it to wind in and out.

HALF-BACKST1TCHING. 25

Suggestions. In the same manner sew all seams hav-
ing raw edges, if a strain is coming on them, as in
shoulder seams, the seams of drawers, etc. A bias seam
should be sewed from the broad part to the narrow.

How is stitching done ? How is the work held ? Where is the needle first
inserted ? Where next ? Where is it brought out ? As you continue, where should
the needle always be inserted? How should the stitches be made? How many
threads of the cloth should be left between the basting and the stitches? How
should the thread be fastened ? How should the thread be joined ?

HALF-BACKSTITCHING.

Fig. 17. Showing the stitches and the needle in position.

Half-backstitchin'g is the same as stitching, except
that the needle is put only half-way back, thus leaving a
space between the stitches (Fig. 17).

How does half-backstitching differ from stitching ?

HEMMING.

A hem is a fold, made by twice turning over the edge
of a piece of cloth, and then sewing it down.

Materials. No. 9 needle, No. 70 thread, and a strip
of cotton cloth.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

To prepare the hem, make a fold one-fourth of an inch
wide, and crease; then fold again one-fourth of an inch
deep and crease. Baste near the edge of the first fold
with uneven basting stitches. For wider hems, have the
first fold one-fourth of an inch wide, being careful to crease
it thoroughly, as much depends upon this; crease the
second fold the required width, which can be done evenly,
by measuring every two inches with a paper or other
measure. If a very wide hem is required, baste as you
measure, first along the upper edge of the hem, and then
along the lower edge. On woollen cloth, baste down the
first narrow fold, then baste as for a hem on cotton cloth.

Fig. 18. Showing the needle in position for beginning the work.

Hemming. Practise Drill No. 2 (page 14).

1. Have no knot in the thread.

2. Hold the hem across the cushion of the left fore-
finger, as in Fig. 6 (page 14).

3. Pointing the needle from you, insert it at the edge
of the fold, one-third of an inch from the right-hand end,
and bring it out close to the end, as in Fig. 18.

4. Carefully draw the needle through, leaving a little
of the thread at the end, to be tucked under the hem with

HEMMING. 27

the point of the needle, and to be sewed down with the
first stitches.

5. Take, up one or two threads of the cloth, and one
or two threads of the fold, keeping the needle on a line
with the hem, and pointing towards the left shoulder.

pjg. |9. Showing the work as it looks on the right side.

6. Draw the needle out and continue, making the
stitches close and slanting (Figs. 19 and 20).

7. When the thread becomes too short for use, either
cut or break it.

Fig. 20. Showing the work as it looks on the wrong side; and how to
join the thread, the double line representing the old thread, and
the black line the new thread.

8. To join the thread (Fig. 20). If there is no end
left of the thread, pick out a few stitches, always leaving
the end between tJie hem. With the needle, draw the end
under the fold, and towards the thumb. Begin with a

28 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

new needleful, as when commencing the work, putting
the needle into the last hole the short end came out of,
and sewing both ends down with the next stitches.

9. At the end of the work, fasten the thread by taking
two or three stitches over each other in the fold.

Suggestions. Hems should be begun and finished by
neatly overhanding the ends of the fold. A narrow hem
on stiff cloth, as on table linen, need not be basted. The
seams of a garment should be sewed before hemming, to
conceal the edges. Before turning the first fold, the
end of the seam should be cut to avoid extra thicknesses
and wear ; when basting the hem, seams or stripes
should exactly match. In sewing, to hold a wide hem
easily, fold it over and over until it is a convenient width.

What is a hem ? How should the hem be folded ? Where and how should it be
basted? How many times should a wide hem be basted? How many times should
a wide hem on woollen cloth be basted ? Should there be a knot in the thread ? How
is the hem held ? How should the needle point ? Where is the needle inserted ?
How should the thread be drawn through? What is done with the end? How is
the stitch made? How should the needle be held? How should the stitches be
taken ? In joining the thread, where should the end of the old thread be left ?
Where should the end be drawn ? In starting with a new needleful of thread, where
should the needle be put ? What should be done with the two ends ? In fastening,
where and how should the stitches be taken ? What should be done to the ends of a
hem ?

RUNNING.

Running is done by passing the needle in and out of
the material at regular intervals.

The rule for running is to take up two threads of the
cloth and pass over two threads, but the light in the aver-
age school-room does not permit this, nor is it wise to
strain the eyes trying to do so. The general principle is
to pass over as much of the cloth as you take up.

RUNNING.

2 9

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a half-
yard strip of cotton cloth, doubled and basted.
Running. Practise Drill No. 3 (page 15).

1. Make a small knot in the thread.

2. Hold the work in the left hand, between the thumb
and cushion of the forefinger, as in Fig. 7 (page 15).

3. Sew directly below the basting.

4. Insert the needle between the edges of the seam, at
the right-hand corner, and take the stitches (Fig. 21) over
the cushion of the left forefinger, as in Drill No. 3
(page 15).

Fig. 21. Showing the stitches, and the needle in position.

5. Fasten, by putting the needle through to the under
side, and taking two or three stitches in the same place.

6. Join the thread, by sewing over the last stitches, or
by making a knot and concealing it between the edges of
the seam.

Suggestions. To avoid puckering in running, begin at
the right hand and smooth the seam between the left
thumb and forefinger. Running is used for seams, which
do not require great strength, also for tucking.

How is running done ? What is the principle to be followed in running ? How
is the work held ? Where are the stitches taken ? Where is the needle inserted ?
How should the stitches be taken? How should the thread be fastened? How
should the thread be joined ? When is running used ?

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

RUNNING AND A BACKSTITCH.

Running and a backstitch consists of two or more run-
ning stitches and a backstitch, taken alternately.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a half-
yard strip of cotton cloth, doubled and basted.

Fig. 22. Showing the stitches, and needle in position for putting
away the work.

Running and a backstitch. I . Begin as for running.

2. Take three running stitches.

3. Take one backstitch.

4. Repeat, which will cause cv^ry third and fourth
stitch to meet (Fig. 22).

Suggestions. Another method is to take three running
stitches, making the third twice the length of the others,
and then, putting the needle back to the middle of the
last stitch, proceed as before. In this manner, the stitches
on the right side resemble running, but on the wrong side
there is a slight difference. Running and a backstitch is
used when the seam needs to be sewed a little stronger
than by running.

Of what does running and a backstitch consist ? When is running and a back-
stitch used?

OVERCASTING.

Overcasting is done by taking loose stitches over the
raw edge of cloth, to keep it from ravelling.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, and a stitched
strip of cotton cloth.

Fig. 23. Showing the stitches, and needle in position.

Overcasting. Practise Drill No. 4 (page 16).

1. Find one-eighth of an inch and one-fourth of an
inch on the measure (page 13).

2. Place the thumb-nail on the cloth one-eighth of an
inch below the raw edge. The stitches are to be of this
depth, and twice as far, or one-fourth of an inch, apart.

3. Make a small knot in the thread.

4. Hold the work over the left forefinger, as in Fig. 8
(page 1 6).

5. Begin at the right-hand end of the seam.

6. Insert the needle one-eighth of an inch below the
edge, and between the edges of the seam, in order to hide
the knot.

7. Pointing the needle towards the left shoulder, take

32 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

the next stitch one-fourth of an inch to the left, and over
both edges of the cloth.

8. Continue, taking up the same number of threads
each time, being careful to make the spaces equal.

9. Do not draw the stitches tightly, but let them lie
loosely over the edge (Fig. 23).

10. To fasten the thread, draw the needle nearly
through the cloth where the next stitch should come.
Turn over the cloth, withdraw the needle, and fasten the
thread at this point, being careful that the stitches do
not show on the right side.

11. To join the thread, make a small knt in the new
thread, and put the needle between the edges of the seam,
through the little hole, which was made when the needle
was withdrawn.

Suggestions. Before overcasting, take out the basting
threads and trim the edges evenly. All seams whose
edges ravel should be overcast, and, therefore, a selvedge
seam does not need to be overcast. Overcasting is very
difficult to do nicely. The above directions are for over-
casting on underclothes, etc. In overcasting a dress
waist, or any fine material, smaller stitches should be
taken. A bias seam should be overcast from the broad
part to the narrow, or with the grain of the cloth.

What is overcasting ? How deep are the stitches taken ? How far apart ? How
is the work held ? At which end is the work begun ? Where is the needle inserted ?
Why ? How should the needle point ? How far to the left should the next stitch be
taken ? How do you continue with the stitches ? How is the thread fastened ? How
is the thread joined ? What should be done before overcasting ? When does a seam
need to be overcast ? How is a bias seam overcast ?

OVERHANDING.

Overhanding is done by sewing closely over two edges
of cloth. The edge of the cloth may be either a selvedge
or a creased fold.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, and either
two selvedge strips or two folded strips of cotton cloth,
carefully basted together with even stitches, near the
edge.

Fig. 24. Showing overhanding stitches, needle in position.

Overhanding. -Practise Drill No. 5 (page 17).

1 . Have no knot in the thread.

2. Hold the work horizontally along the edge of tJie
cusJiion of the left forefinger, and around the end of
the finger, as in Fig. 9 (page 17).

3. Pointing the needle towards you, insert it at the
edge nearest you, taking up two or three threads of
the cloth.

4. Carefully draw the thread through, leaving half-an-
inch of the thread.

5. Hold the half-inch of thread down with the thumb,
so that it may be sewed over by the first stitches (Fig.
26, a).

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

6 Pointing the needle towards the chest, put it through
both edges, taking up as little of the cloth as possible. *

Fig. 25. -Showing how the stitches should look on the under side
with the seam opened.

7. Take the stitches at the side of the cushion, and
make them close and even, having perpendicular lines on
the under side of the .seam (Fig. 25), and oblique lines
across the edges (Fig. 24).

end7f?h 7h"^ , gSS f the S6am bein ^Parated, how the
Took on tt 6 , ' S d m be g'' nnin g. how the stitches should

look on the s,de towards you, and how to join the thread (the
double ,, ne representing the old thread, and the b.ack line the ew

OVERHANDING.

8. Joining the thread (Fig. 26). When the thread
becomes too short for use, draw the needle through the
further edge of the cloth, as in taking a stitch. Insert
the needle at the opposite edge, one-fourth of an inch to
the left, taking up one thread of the cloth. Draw the
thread through, and remove the needle. Have no knot in
the new thread. Pointing the needle from you, insert it
at the hole where the old thread is hanging. Draw the
thread through until about an inch is left, and hold the
end under the thumb. Pointing the needle towards you,
insert it at the nearest edge, exactly opposite the last
stitch on the other edge. Hold the ends under the
thumb, while the threads along the top are being over-
handed ; afterwards, cut the ends off.

Fig. 27. Showing another way of joining the thread.

The thread can also be joined as in Fig. 27. If pre-
ferred, a knot can be used by beginning back and sewing
over a few stitches, and afterwards cutting off the knot.

9. Finish the seam by turning the work around, and
overhanding back four or five stitches ; this will fasten the
thread securely.

10. When the seam is finished, draw out the basting
thread, open the seam, and rub it first on one side and
then on the other with the thumb-nail until it is flat.

36 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Suggestions, This stitch is sometimes called " top-
sewing," also "over and over." The stitches should only
be deep enough to hold, taking care to avoid making a
ridge in the seam. The work will not pucker if the
needle is pointed towards the chest, and the stitches are
taken at the side of the cushion, not around the end of the
finger. The necessity of taking the stitches properly is
shown by overhanding two pieces of striped cloth. Either
side of the sewing may be used as the right side. A seam
in stiff material can be pressed open by holding it between
the thumb and forefinger of each hand and rubbing.

How is overhanding done ? How should the work be held ? How and where should
the needle be inserted ? What should be done with the end of the thread ? How are
the stitches made? Mention one way of joining the thread. How should the seam
be finished ? What is done after the seam is finished ?

GATHERING AND PLACING OF GATHERS.

Gathering is done by running the needle in and out of
the cloth, passing over twice as much cloth as is taken up.
It is used in joining a full part to a plain part, as an apron
to a band.

Materials. No. 8 needle, and a large blunt-pointed
needle, No. 40 thread, and a piece of cotton cloth half-a-
yard long and seven inches wide, hemmed at the sides
and lower edge, and creased at the top.

Gathering. Practise Drill No. 3 (page 15).

I. Find the middle of the creased edge, and mark the
place by cutting a small notch in the edge (Fig. 28), or
by making a cross-stitch with colored thread, one inch
from the edge (Fig. 28).

GATHERING.

2. Use a single or double thread a little longer than
the space to be gathered. A double thread helps to keep
the gathers in place, but is more apt to knot than a single
thread.

3. Make a good- sized knot in the thread, so that it
cannot slip through the cloth.

4. With the right side of the cloth towards you, hold
the work in the left hand, between the thumb and cushion
of the forefinger, as in Fig. 7 (page 15).

5. Insert the needle on the wrong side, so as to conceal
the knot, and through the hem to keep the knot secure.

Fig. 28. Showing the middle marked by a notch and by a cross-
stitch, also showing gathering stitches.

6. Sew on the crease, taking several stitches before
drawing the needle through.

7. Do not count the threads, but take up about half as
many as you skip, i.e., take up two threads and pass over
four threads (Fig. 28).

8. If a knot, that cannot be untied, comes in the gather-
ing thread, you will have to begin again.

9. When the seam is finished, remove the needle from
the thread, and make a knot, in this end of the thread.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

10. Put a pin in vertically, close to the last stitch, tak-
ing up a few threads of the cloth.

11. Carefully draw up the thread, but not too tightly.

Fig. 29. Showing the thread drawn up, and fastened around a pin.

12. Wind the thread over the top, and under the point
of the pin a number of times, crossing the threads at the
middle of the pin (Fig. 29).

Fig. 30. Showing the placing of gathers, with a large blunt needle.

Placing or stroking of gathers. i . With the right side
towards you, begin at the /r//-hand edge.

GATHERING. 39

2. Hold the work between the left thumb and fore-
finger, as in Fig. 30, keeping the thumb below the
gathering thread.

3. Put the point of the large needle under the gather-
ing thread, holding it obliquely.

4. Press the needle towards the thumb, bringing the
little plait under the thumb, and drawing the needle
downwards.

5. Pinch it down tightly.

6. Continue in this way, putting the needle under each
stitch.

Suggestions. The part to be gathered should be divided
into halves, quarters, or eighths, according to the width.
When the part is only divided into halves, a notch may be
avoided by beginning the gathering in the middle.

In placing, the eye of the needle can be used instead of
a blunt-pointed needle. The upper part of the gathers
often need a stroke of the needle. If a scratching sound
is made in placing, marks are apt to be left, and the cloth
torn. In thin, stiff materials, instead of placing, many
stitches can be taken on the needle at once, and before
drawing the needle through, push them close together ;
holding firmly, pull them into place and press them.

How is gathering done ? When is it used ? How is the cloth prepared ? How
long a thread should be used ? What kind of a knot is required ? How is the work
held ? How are the stitches taken ? What is done after the seam is finished ? How
should the thread be drawn ? How should the thread be wound ? At which end
should stroking begin? How is the work held in stroking? Where should the
needle be put ? What is done next ?

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

DOUBLE GATHERING OR GAUGING.

Double gathering is done by making two rows of
gathering, with the stitches of the second row directly
under those of the first.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, and two
pieces of cotton cloth, each half-a-yard long and seven
inches wide, hemmed at the sides and lower edge.

Fig. 31. Showing double gathering on single material.

Double gathering on single material, i . Gather one-
fourth of an inch from the raw edge.

2. When the end is reached, remove the needle, but do
not draw up the thread.

3. Make a crease one-fourth of an inch below the
gathering.

4. On the crease make another row of gathering, taking
each stitch directly beloiv the one above it (Fig. 31).

5. Remove the needle.

6. Take hold of both threads near the cloth, and
gradually draw the gathers up to the required width.

DOUBLE GATHERING. 4!

Double gathering which is to be overhanded on to a binding.

- i. Find the middle of the cloth, and mark it one and
a half inches from the raw edge by a cross-stitch.

2. Crease one inch from the raw edge of the cloth, and
let it remain folded.

3. Make two or more rows of gathering, the first row
being one-eighth of an inch from the edge of the fold.

Suggestions. When double gathering is used, there is
no need of placing. Double gathering should be used on
woollen materials, and quite long stitches be taken, if there
is much fulness. Where the gathers are large, the second
row can be easily made by closely drawing up the first
gathering thread, and inserting the needle through many
gathers at once.

How is double gathering done ? How far from the edge should the first row, in
single material, be made? In double material? How is the middle of the cloth
marked for double gathering, that is to be overhanded to a binding ?

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

SHIRRING.

Shirring is done by making several rows of running,
parallel with each other.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, and a piece
of cotton cloth half-a-yard long and twelve inches wide.
The cloth should be folded lengthwise and basted.

Fig. 32. Showing shirring, and the stitches.

Shirring. I . Begin as in running.

2. Make the required number of rows at the desired
distances from each other (Fig. 32).

3. Draw the gathers up on the threads, or by cords
run between the rows.

How is shirring done ? How are the gathers drawn up ?

SCALLOPED EDGE.

A scalloped edge is used as a fancy heading for fulness.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, a strip of soft
woollen cloth, and strong silk or thread to match in color.

Scalloped edge. i . Fold one of the lengthwise edges
five-eighths of an inch from the edge, and baste close to
the raw edge.

2. On the wrong side, arid beginning at the right-hand
end, mark the outer edge of the fold into inches with a
colored pencil.

Fig. 33. Showing a scalloped edge.

3. Half-an-inch below the outer edge of the fold, and
beginning half-an-inch from the right-hand end, make
another row of dots one inch apart. These dots should
be midway between those of the upper row.

4. Make a good-sized knot, and inserting the needle at
the upper right-hand dot, take small running stitches,
slanting up and down, from dot to dot (Fig. 33).

5. Carefully draw up the thread every few inches.

For what is a scalloped edge used ? What kind of stitches are taken ?

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

HONEY-COMBING OR SMOCKING.

Honey-combing is drawing fulness together for orna-
mental effect.

Materials. No. 8 needle, a piece of fine woollen cloth
eleven inches long and three and a half inches wide, silk
to match, and a red and a blue pencil.

Fig. 34. Showing how to mark the cloth, diamonds representing red
dots, and circles blue dots.

Honey-combing. i . On the right side of the cloth, and
beginning at one end, mark the entire length, as in Fig.
34, placing red dots in the place of diamonds, and blue
dots in the place of circles.

Fig. 35. Showing honey-combing begun, needle in position

HONEY-COMBING.

2. Drawing the needle through from underneath at a
(Fig. 34), take up a few threads of the cloth at b (Fig. 34),
and fasten a and b together with two or three over and
over stitches (Fig. 35, a).

3. Passing the needle underneath, bring it out at the
next red dot (Fig. 34, c), and fasten c and d together.

Fig. 36. Showing diamond honey-combing,

4. Continue to the end of the row, fastening together
the red dots which are connected in Fig. 34.

5. Beginning the second row at the right, fasten
together, in a similar manner, the blue dots (circles,
Fig. 34)-

46 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

6. Work the third row as the first, and the fourth row
as the second, and so continue (Fig. 36).

Suggestions, In honey-combing, exactness is required
in marking the spaces. Instead of colored pencils, the
dots may be marked with thread or chalk. To keep the
honey-combing in position, the outer edges should be
fastened to a lining, after it is finished.

What is honey-combing ? Where is exactness required in honey-combing ? How
is honey-combing kept in position ^hen finished ?

BINDINGS.

A binding or band is used to strengthen and cover the
raw edges of a seam.

Binding. No. 1. Sewed by stitching and hemming.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, pins, scissors,
and a piece of cotton cloth half-a-yard long and seven

Fig. 37. Showing the corners of the binding cut, and the middle
of the edges marked by notches and a cross-stitch.

inches wide, notched in the middle, gathered and stroked
(page 36); for the binding, a piece of cloth eight inches
long and three inches wide.

BINDINGS.

Preparations. i . Find the middle of the band, and
mark the place by cutting a notch (Fig. 37) at the edge of
each side, or by taking a cross-stitch (Fig. 37) with
colored cotton.

2. Cut off each corner of the band one-fourth of an
inch deep (Fig. 37), to avoid having many thicknesses of
cloth, when the corners are turned.

3. Loosen the gathering thread.

Fig. 38. Showing half of the gathers basted and stitched.

4. Holding the wrong side of the gathered piece to-
wards you, place the middle of the band at the notch in the
middle of the gathers, and put in a pin vertically, to hold
them together (Fig. 38).

5. Pin the ends of the gathers one-fourth of an inch
from eacJi end of the band.

6. Tighten or loosen the gathering thread, so that the
length of the gathered edge exactly matches that of the
band.

48 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

7. Fasten the gathering thread by winding it around
the pin.

8. With the point of the needle adjust the gathers, so
that the fulness is evenly distributed along the band.

9. Holding the gathers towards you, baste, with small
stitches, a little above the gathering thread.

Stitching, i. Stitch the gathers to the band, exactly
over the gathering thread, taking up only one gather at a
time (Fig. 38).

2. Take out the pins, as you come to them.

3. If, when sewing, the gathering thread should be too
short, loosen it by unwinding it from the pin.

4. When the band is stitched on, fasten the thread
securely, cut off the gathering thread and take out the
basting thread.

Hemming. I . Turn up the band, and crease the oppo-
site edge and the two ends, one-fourth of an inch deep.

2. Cut off the corners of the gathers above the
stitching.

3. Fold the band over to the line of stitching.

4. Pin the middle of the folded edge to the middle of
the line of stitching.

5. Pin the ends, being careful to have che corners
exactly together.

6. Baste the band down, keeping the edge of the fold
directly over the stitching.

7. Overhand each end, beginning at the gathers.

8. Hem the band down, taking a stitch in each gather,
a little below the stitching. Do not allow the stitches to
show on the right side.

Suggestions. A binding should be cut lengthwise of
the cloth, when strength is required, or where much wear

BINDINGS.

is coming, as on underclothing. A narrow binding for
finishing a garment should be cut on the bias. The
binding and gathering should be equally divided by
notches, so that there may be no more fulness in one
part than in another. If there are but few gathers, half-
backstitching can be used instead of stitching. Great
care should be taken to have the ends of the band neat ;
some prefer to turn the ends of the band under before
stitching, others stitch the ends of the band together,
before putting it on to the gathers.

Binding No. 2. Sewed by setting-in the gathers.
Materials. Same as for Binding No. I .

Fig. 39. Showing gathers set into a band.

Preparations. i . Mark the middle of the band by a
cross-stitch, and cut off the corners, as in Fig. 37.

2. Crease the four edges of the band.

3. Baste and overhand the ends, beginning at the
corners.

4. Loosen the gathering thread.

5<D SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

5. Hold the right side of the gathers towards you.

6. Pin the middle of one edge of the band to the mid-
dle of the gathers, and exactly over the gathering thread

(Fig. 39> &).

7. Pin the ends of the gathers, inside the ends of the
band (Fig. 39, a and c).

8. Draw up or loosen the gathering thread, so that it
is the same length as the band, and fasten around the pin.

9. Arrange the gathers with the needle.

10. Baste the band on, so that the gathering thread is
covered.

Setting-in of gathers. i Begin as for hemming, but
make the stitch vertical on the side towards you.

2. Take up, close below the gathering thread, one
gather and then a thread or two of the band (Fig. 39).

3. Take the next stitch by inserting the needle into
the next gather (which should be directly under the
place where the thread comes out of the band) and at the
same time take up a thread of the band.

4. Take a stitch in each gather.

5. When this side is finished, fasten securely, and cut
off the gathering thread.

6. Baste and sew the under part of the band in the
same manner, taking care that the edge of the band
corresponds exactly with the edge on the opposite side,
in order that the band may not be twisted.

7. Do not let these stitches show on the right side.
Suggestions. The shape of the stitch is like the letter

N, as in overhanding, but the slant here is underneath,
while in overhanding it is on the top. A binding is
more easily sewed on in this manner, if there is a double
row of gathering. To strengthen a binding, where a

BINDINGS. 5 I

button is to be placed, turn in one inch at the end of the
band before folding it, and baste pieces of cloth on the
under side where other buttons are to be placed ; at the
button-hole end, turn in half-an-inch. Cut a button-hole
in a binding nearer the gathers than the folded edge, so
that the garment will be held in place firmly.

Binding No. 3. Sewed by overhanding.

Materials. Same as for Binding No. i, with the larger
piece of cloth gathered for overhanding to a binding
(page 4 1).

I:': In { !

Fig. 40. Showing gathers overhanded, with needle in position

Preparations. i . Mark the middle of the band by a
cross-stitch, and cut off the corners, as in Fig. 37.

2. Crease the four edges of the band.

3. Double each end, and beginning at the corners,
overhand both ends.

4. Baste the lengthwise edges together.

52 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

5. Pin the middle of the band at the middle of the
right side of the gathers.

6. Pin the ends of the gathers and band together.

7. Draw up or loosen the gathering thread, until it is
of the same length as the band, and fasten around the
pin.

8. Arrange the gathers with the needle, and put in
pins vertically every two inches.

Overhanding. I . Holding the band towards you, over-
hand the gathers to the band placing a stitch in each
gather.

2. Take out the pins, as you come to them.

3. Fasten the gathering thread.

For what is a binding used? In what three ways can a binding be sewed on?
How can the middle of th band be marked ? What should be done to the corners
of the band ? Why ? Where should the gathered piece and band be pinned together ?
What should be done to the gathering thread ? How is it fastened ? How should the
gathers be adjusted ? How basted ? Where and how should the gathers be stitched ?
How is the band prepared for hemming ? Where should the band be pinned ? How is
the band basted ? What should be done at each end ? Where should the hemming
stitches be taken ? When is a binding cut lengthwise ? What should be done to the
ends of a band before setting-in the gathers ? How should the band be basted to the
gathers ? What letter should the stitch resemble ? How can a band be strengthened,
where buttons are to be placed ?

FACINGS OR FALSE HEMS.

A facing is a fold applied to the edge of a garment for
protection and finish, and has the appearance of a hem.

Materials. No. 8 and No. 9 needles, No. 50 and No.
70 thread, pins, and two pieces of cotton cloth, one piece
six inches long and four inches wide, the other piece, for
the facing, six inches long and two inches wide.

BUTTON-HOLES. 53

Facing. i . Place the facing lengthwise on the piece
of cloth, and pin the ends together.

2. Baste them together one-fourth of an inch from the
edge.

3. Half-backstitch under the basting.

4. Take out the basting thread.

5. Fold the wrong sides together, and crease the cloth
one or two threads beyond the seam, that the seam may
not show on the edge.

6. Crease the opposite edge of the facing one-fourth of
an inch deep.

7. Pin the ends of the cloth and facing evenly together.

8. Baste and hem.

Suggestions. A facing which requires strength should
be cut lengthwise. A narrow facing for a rounded edge,
as the neck of a garment, should be cut on the bias, so
that it may be stretched when being hemmed. A false hem
can be used, when the material is not long enough to allow
a hem.

What is a facing ? What is its use ? How should it first be sewed ? How next ?
When can a false hem be used ?

BUTTON-HOLES.

A button-hole is a slit cut and worked in a garment to
admit a button.

BUTTON-HOLE STITCH FOR BEGINNERS.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 40 colored thread, and a
folded and basted strip of cotton cloth.

Button-hole stitch. I . Make a small knot in the thread.

54 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

2. Place the folded edge of the cloth across the cushion
of the forefinger of the left hand, allowing the tip of the
finger to show.

3. Hold the cloth firmly, keeping the end of the thumb
near the folded edge.

4. Work from you, instead of towards you.

5. Draw the needle through from underneath, close to
the folded edge of the cloth, which will bring the thread
into position for the stitch.

6. Again insert the needle one-eighth of an inch from
the edge, and exactly back of its first position.

Fig. 4| . Showing the work in position, and button-hole stitches.

7. Let the needle remain half-way through the cloth,
and pointing towards you.

8. Take the two threads at the eye of the needle, bring
them towards you at the right of the needle, then under
the point of the needle and from you (Fig. 44).

9. Pull the needle out, drawing the thread so that the
twist or purl comes at the top of the folded edge of the
cloth (Fig. 41).

10. One-eighth of an inch beyond take another stitch
in the same manner.

BUTTON-HOLES. 5 5

11. So continue, making the stitches even.

12. When the thread becomes too short to use, turn to
the other side of the cloth, and fasten lightly at the side
of the last stitch, and away from the purl. After thread-
ing the needle, insert it beside of the last stitch, drawing
it towards the purl. Turn to the right side, and draw the
needle up through the last purl, and proceed with the
button-hole stitch.

What is the first thing to be done ? Where should the folded edge of the cloth be
placed ? What part of the forefinger shows ? How should the cloth be held ? In
which direction do you work? Where is the first stitch taken ? Why? How far
from the edge is the needle next inserted? How far through the cloth should the
needle be brought? How should it point? What is done with the two threads?
\Vhen the thread is drawn out, where should the twist or purl come ? How much
should be left between the stitches ?

BUTTON-HOLES.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 40 colored thread, button-
hole scissors, a medium-sized button, and a folded and
basted strip of cotton cloth.

Fig. 42. Showing the work in position.

The instructions are given in the following order :

1. Cutting. 4. Button-hole stitch.

2. Barring. 5. Finishing.

3. Overcasting. 6. Joining the thread.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Cutting. Cut the slit by a thread of the cloth, one-
fourth of an inch from the folded edge, and a little longer
than the diameter of the button.

Barring. i . Make a small knot in the thread.

2. With the folded edge from you, place the slit across
the cushion of the left forefinger (Fig. 42).

3. Hold the slit firmly between the thumb and fore-
finger, and slanting as in Fig. 42.

4. Work from you, beginning at tJie end fartJicst from
the folded edge of the cloth.

Fig. 43. A, showing the barring of a button-hole; B, showing the
overcasting of a button-hole; C, showing a finished button-hole;
D, showing a button-hole on heavy cloth.

5. Draw the needle through from underneath, at the
left of the slit, and three or four threads from the raw
edge, a (Fig. 43, A}.

6. Turn the cloth, so that the folded edge is towards
you.

7. Insert the needle at b (Fig. 43, A), and bring it out
at c, taking up three or four threads of the cloth at each
side of the slit.

8. Again insert the needle at b, and bring it out at c.
This makes a side and end barring.

BUTTON-HOLES.

9. Turn the cloth, and bar the other side and end in
the same manner, i.e., inserting the needle at d, bring it
out at a, and repeat. This brings the needle to the start-
ing point.

Overcasting. i. Hold the barring tightly near the
edge of the slit.

2. Taking up three or four threads of the cloth, over-
cast one side, making the stitches over the barring and

Fig. 44. Showing button-hole stitches, Fig. 45. Showing a finished
enlarged, needle and thread in posi- button-hole, enlarged,

tion. The straight lines represent
the threads of the cloth.

one-eighth of an inch apart. Bring the needle at the last
stitch into the corner, where the side and end barring
meet, b (Fig. 43, B).

3. Turn the cloth, and take one overcasting stitch in
the opposite corner, c (Fig. 43, B).

4. Overcast the remaining side and end in the same

58 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

manner, which will again bring the needle to the starting
point.

Button-hole stitch or purl, i . Draw the needle half-
way through at the left side, and one thread beyond,
taking up about four threads of the cloth.

2. With the needle pointing towards you, take the two
threads at the. eye of the needle, and bring them towards
you at the right of the needle, then under the point of
the needle and from you (Fig. 44).

3. Draw the needle and thread out, at right angles to
the slit, and so that the twist or purl comes at the top edge
of the slit (Fig. 44). In making the purl, the thread will
form the figure eight (8).

4. Continue in this manner, leaving a thread of the
cloth between each stitch, and make the stitches even.

5. Take seven or eight stitches across the outer end
(Fig. 45), drawing the purl towards the folded edge, and
making either a square or round end. The greatest wear
from the button comes here.

6. Holding the folded edge of the cloth towards you,
work the second side until close to the end barring.

If, in taking the button-hole stitch, you fail to put the
thread around the needle, the stitch can be picked
up, by leaving a small loop, and, with the thread be-
yond it, passing the needle from underneath through
the loop.

Finishing, i . Without turning the cloth, draw the
needle down through the first button-hole stitch taken,
bringing it up on the opposite side, where the side and
end barring meet.

2. Draw this stitch so tightly as to bring the sides
close together.

BUTTON-HOLES. 59

3. Make a barring exactly over the one already there,
which will leave the thread at the left side.

4. Holding the thread under the left thumb, draw the
needle under the two end barrings and over the thread,
which will form the loop stitch.

5. Take another loop stitch in the middle of the bar-*
ring and one in the right hand corner.

6. Draw the needle down through the cloth close to the
purl of the last loop stitch, and fasten on the wrong side.

Joining the thread. I . If the thread should prove too
short, put the needle through "the slit, and turn to the
other side of the cloth.

2. Fasten lightly beside the las't stitch.

3. After threading the needle, insert it beside the last
stitch, drawing it towards the purl.

4. Turning the right side towards you, draw the needle
up through the last purl, and proceed with the button-
hole stitch.

Suggestions. On materials that ravel, make two par-
allel rows of stitching, and cut between the rows ; or the
place may be dampened with glue and cut when dry. It
is important to remember when making a button-hole, to
work from you and begin at the end farthest from the
edge. Try to keep the slit straight and not to press it
out of shape. Some hold the slit horizontally on the
forefinger. The distance that the button-hole is cut from
the edge, depends upon the garment. The side of the
garment in which the button-hole is made, is a matter of
choice, but it is wise to decide upon one side and adhere
to it. In woollen goods a triangle of a few threads of the
cloth can be cut out of the end nearest the edge, or the
end can be rounded.

6O SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

The barring strengthens the button-hole and keeps it
in place. If a great strain comes on the button-hole, put
a double barring around.

Some prefer to overcast before barring, but the over-
casting stitches are helpful in keeping the barring in
place. When the overcasting is done first, take the over-
casting stitches on the under or wrong side, thus securing
the under edge, which is very apt to pull away in working.
A material, that does not ravel, need not be overcast.

A button-hole can be finished by taking button-hole
stitches in the loop, or orf heavy goods by sewing closely
over and over the barring. In a button-hole, where a
strain comes on the sides, as in the front of a shirt, work
both ends as in finishing an ordinary button-hole.

Always try to have the thread long enough to finish
working the button-hole. For a very large button-hole,
take a new piece of thread, when beginning on the button-
hole stitch. On woollen cloth, button-hole twist should
be used. On heavy goods, a cord is used instead of
barring.

What is a button-hole ? What is its use ? Give the order in which the instruc-
tions for button-hole making are given.

CUTTING. How should the slit be cut ?

BARRING. Where should the slit be placed and how held ? In which direction
do you work ? At which end do you begin ? Where is the needle inserted ? What
should be done next ? What stitch is taken by following the directions for the end
barring ? How is the other side and end barred ? Where will this bring the needle ?

OVERCASTING. How should the barring be held? How is the first side over-
cast ? How is the end overcast ? How is the needle brought to the starting point ?

BUTTON-HOLE STITCH. Where and how should the needle be inserted ? How
many threads of the cloth are taken up ? In what direction should the needle point ?
What is now done with the two threads ? How are the needle and thread draw*
out ? Where should the twist or purl come ? What figure is formed by the thread,
in making the purl? How many threads of the cloth should be left between the
stitches ? How should the outer end be worked ? Where does the greatest wear
come? How should the cloth be held in working the second side? How can a
button-hole stitch be picked up ?

FINISHING. What is done with the needle ? How should this stitch be drawn ?

BUTTONS.

Where is the second barring made? How is the loop stitch formed? Where are
the other loop stitches taken ? Where should the needle be drawn, to fasten the
thread ?

JOINING THE THREAD. What is done if the thread proves too short? After
threading the needle, where should it be inserted ? Where is it next brought ?

Why is barring used ? Is a material, that does not ravel, overcast ? How long a
thread should be taken ?

BUTTONS.

A button is a catch of metal or other substance, by
which a garment is fastened.

Materials. No. 7 and No. 8 needles, No. 36 and No. 50
thread, a pin, a four-holed button, and a folded and basted
piece of cotton cloth.

Fig. 46. a, Showing the sewingof a two-holed button, pin in position ;

b, showing the sewing of a four-holed button, pin in position ;

c, showing the sewing of a boot-button.

Buttons. i . Make a pin-hole, where the button is to be
placed.

2. Stitch with the fine needle and thread a very small
circle around the pin-hole, or a cross at the pin-hole, to
keep both sides of the cloth in place.

,3-
4-

Having the coarse thread double, make a knot.
Draw the needle through the pin-hole from the upper
side, to conceal the knot under the button.

5. Bring the needle partly through, close to the knot. '

6. Place the button on the needle, and draw the needle
and thread through.

62 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

7. Place the pin across the top of the button (Fig. 46,
b), to lengthen the stitches ; and take the first stitch
across the button, at right angles with the edge of the
cloth.

8. Sew securely through and through the holes, making
a cross on the button, and two parallel lines on the wrong
side of the cloth.

9. Remove the pin, which will loosen the stitches.

10. Inserting the needle from underneath, bring it out
between the button and cloth, close to the centre of the
button.

1 1 . Wind the thread tightly around the stitches three
or four times, to form a neck for the button ; thus allow-
ing room for the thickness of the button-hole.

12. Fasten the thread on the under side of the cloth.
Suggestions. In sewing on a two-holed button, the

stitches should be taken at right angles with the edge of
the cloth (Fig. 46, a), to avoid stretching the end of the
button-hole. A button with a loop, as a boot-button,
should be sewed with the stitches taken parallel with the
edge (Fig. 46, c) ; this will bring the wear on the loop of
the button.

The button-holes should be made first. To mark the
places for the buttons, lay the right sides of the garment
together, and put pins through the outer ends of the
button-holes ; taking great care to have the pins exactly
opposite the button-holes.

What is a button ? What is its use ? How should the place for a button be pre-
pared ? What kind of thread should be used ? How should the needle be inserted ?
Why ? What is placed across the top of the button ? How is the button sewed on ?
How is the neck of the button formed ? Why ? How should the stitches be taken in
sewing on a two-holed button ? How on a button with a loop ? How are the places
for the buttons marked on a garment ?

EYELET-HOLES.

An eyelet is a hole made and worked in a garment, to
receive a small cord or the loop of a button.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, a stiletto, and
a piece of cloth folded and basted.

Eyelet-holes. -- i. Pierce the
cloth with the stiletto, breaking
as few threads as possible.

2. Holding the hole tightly
over the cushion of the left fore-
finger, work it over and over
with very close, even stitches
(Fig. 47, a).

3. When working on a line
with the threads of the cloth, use
great care to take the stitches
close and deep enough.

4. Use the stiletto occasionally
to keep the hole round.

Suggestions. To make a large Fig. 47.-*, Showing a small

eyelet-hole, mark the circle by

twice running a thread around

the desired size (Fig. 47, b)\ then

carefully cut out the centre, turn

the edge of the material under, and work the edge over

and over or with button-hole stitches (Fig. 47, c).

On woollen materials, use silk or twist. An eyelet-hole
can be worked with the button-hole stitch.

eyelet-hole ; b, showing a
large eyelet-hole, marked
by running stitches ; c,
showing a large eyelet-
hole finished.

\Yhat is an eyelet-hole ? What is its use ? With what do we make an eyelet-hole ?
How should the eyelet-hole be held and worked ? Where should care be taken ?

6 4

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

HOOKS AND EYES.

A hook is a hard material, bent for holding or fasten-
ing. An eye is a small round catch to receive the hook.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, a medium-
sized hook and eye, and two folded and basted pieces of
cotton cloth.

Fig. 48. Showing a hook and eye sewed on.

Eyes. i. Make a knot in the thread.

2. Place the loop of the eye a little beyond the folded
edge of one of the pieces of cloth.

3. Hold the loop firmly between the left thumb and
forefinger.

4. Beginning at the further side, overhand closely the
two circles of the eye (Fig. 48), being careful not to let
the stitches show on the right side.

5. Take three stitches over each other at each side of
the eye, near the edge of the cloth (Fig. 48, a).

6. Fasten very securely.

Hooks. i . Taking the other piece of cloth, lap the
two pieces as desired.

2. Put the hook into the eye already sewed on, and
place it in position.

LOOPS. 65

3. Holding the hook firmly between the left thumb
and forefinger, unfasten it.

4. Begin at the further side, and overhand closely the
two circles (Fig. 48), being careful not to let the stitches
show on the right side.

5. Overhand the under part of the hook, as far as the
bend.

6. Fasten, by taking three or four stitches in the same
place, at one side of the hook ; then run the needle to the
opposite side, and again fasten. A great strain comes
here, and it is necessary to fasten securely.

Suggestions. If the eye is on a garment, where it is
liable to show, cover it with button-hole or loop stitches.
When sewing on hooks and eyes, use a strong thread or
twist, and as fine a needle as possible.

What is a hook ? What is an eye ? Where is the eye placed ? How is it sewed
on? How should the thread be fastened? What is done to the two pieces of cloth
before sewing on the hook ? Where is the hook placed before it is put in position ?
How is it sewed on ? How is the thread fastened ?

LOOPS.

A loop is a catch made in a garment, to take the place
of an eye.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, and a folded
and basted piece of cotton cloth.

Loops. i. Make a knot in the thread.

2. Holding the folded edge of the cloth towards you,
work from left to rigJit.

3. Half-an-inch from the folded edge take three or
four stitches one-fourth of an inch in length, and over each
other (Fig. 49, a).

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

4. Holding the thread down with the left thumb, insert
the needle under the backstitches, and over the thread

(Fig. 49, a)\ being careful not to
take up any threads of the cloth.

5. Draw the needle and thread
towards you, so that the purl may
come at the side of the loop to-
wards you.

6. Fill the loop full of stitches
drawn closely together.

7. At the right-hand end, draw
the needle down through the
cloth, close to the purl of the last
stitch.

8. With a few stitches, overhand the underneath stitch-
ing, and fasten securely.

Suggestions. In making a loop on a garment, the back-
stitches should be taken one-sixteenth of an inch beyond
where the loop comes, when the garment is fastened.
Button-hole stitches can be used instead of loop-stitches.

What is a loop ? What is its use ? In which direction do you work in making a
loop ? Where and how are the first stitches taken ? How is the needle inserted ?
How is the needle drawn through ? How many stitches should be tak :n in the loop ?
What is done to the underneath stitches ?

Fig. 49. a, Showing the
needle in position ; b,
showing a finished loop;
c, showing a finished
loop, enlarged.

GUSSETS.

A gusset is an angular piece of cloth, inserted in a gar-
ment, to strengthen and enlarge an opening.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, pins, scissors,
and a piece of cotton cloth five inches square, hemmed

GUSSETS. 67

on three sides ; for the gusset a quarter of a four-inch
circle of cloth.

Gussets. i . Find the
middle of the side of the
cloth not hemmed, and
cut two inches and a half,
by a thread.

2. Make a hem on each

. . -11 Fig. 50. Showing the gusset

side, having it one-eighth fo | ded over _

of an inch wide at the

top, and turned to a point at the bottom.

3. Find the middle of the rounded side of the gusset,
and crease to the opposite corner.

4. Baste with even stitches along the crease.

5. On all the sides, fold and crease one-fourth of an
inch.

6. Cut off all unnecessary thicknesses of cloth in the
folds, and baste the folds down.

7. On each side, five-eighths of an inch from point a
(Fig. 50), make a pin-hole ; then fold and crease from pin-
hole to pin-hole (Fig. 50, b to b).

Setting -in the gusset. I. With a small knot in the
thread, draw the needle through from the wrong side of
the gusset, at point a (Fig. 50).

2. Holding the wrong side of the cloth towards you, in-
sert the needle from the right side, two or three threads
from the end of the opening.

3. Holding the right sides together, overhand the
gusset to the cloth, as far as the crease or point b
(Fig. 50) ; fasten securely.

4. Overhand the other side in the same manner, begin-
ning at point a.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

5. Fold the gusset over on the crease.

6. Pin the end of the middle line of basting to the cloth
a little below the opening (Fig. 51).

inn

Fig. 51. Showing the middle of the
gusset pinned, and the finished
gusset on the wrong side,

Fig. 52. Showing th<
finished gusset or
the right side.

7. Baste and hem the gusset to the cloth.

8. Make a row of stitching at the fold of the gusset, tc
strengthen it (Fig. 51).

Fig. 53. Showing other ways of cutting a gusset.

Suggestions. The gusset can be made as large or small
as desired ; it can also be cut in different shapes (Fig. 53).
An easy method of inserting a gusset is to cut a small
square of cloth ; fold and crease the edges ; placing a
corner at the end of the opening, overhand two sides ; fold

GUSSETS.

6 9

on the bias and hem the remaining sides over the over-
handing stitches.

Gusset and facing. I .. Make a paper pattern the desired
size, having the gusset in the proportions of Fig. 54.

2. Fold the pattern at the dotted lines (Fig. 54), and
place this edge on an exact bias fold of the cloth, which
will bring the edge of the gusset on a line with a thread
of the cloth.

Fig. 54. Showing the shape of a gusset and facing combined.

3. Cut the cloth by the pattern, and then cut in one-
fourth of an inch to a (Fig. 54).

4. Make a narrow fold on the inner edges of the facing,
and on the sides of the gusset make a fold turned to a
point at a.

5. Fold the edges of the opening in the garment.

6. With the wrong sides together, overhand the gusset,
and then the inner edges of the facing, to the opening in
the garment.

7. Hem the opposite edges.

What is a gusset ? What is its use ? How should the hem in the opening be
made ? In setting-in a gusset, how is the point brought to the opening ? What kind
of stitches are then taken ? What kind of stitches are used after folding the gusset ?

7O SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

PLACKET.

A placket is an opening made in a garment.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, and a piece
of cotton cloth five inches square, hemmed on three
sides.

Placket. I . At the middle of the side not hemmed,
cut three inches by a thread.

2. Hold the wrong side of the cloth towards you.

3. At the left of the opening, make a hem turned to a
point at the bottom, and one-eighth of an inch wide at the
top.

4. At the right, make a hem three-fourths of an inch
wide the entire length.

5. Turn to the right side of the cloth.

6. At the bottom of the wide hem make a horizontal
crease by a thread.

7. On the right side of the opening, make a vertical
crease by a thread, three-fourths of an inch from the
edge.

8. Place the edge of the wide hem on this crease.

9. Holding the hem carefully, baste with small
stitches, on the horizontal crease.

10. Make two rows of stitching, one a little below, and
one a little above the basting.

What is a placket ? When the wrong side is towards you, how wide a hem is made
at the left? How wide at the right? How many rows of stitching are taken in
tacking the hem ?

TUCKING. 71

TUCKING.

A tuck is a fold made and sewed in a garment for
ornament, or that the garment may be lengthened when
necessary.

Materials. No. 8 and No. 9 needles, No. 50 and
No. 90 thread, a sharp-pointed lead-pencil, and a piece of
cotton cloth six inches square, having at one side an inch
hem sewed exactly on a thread ; for a measure, a stiff,
smooth piece of paper or cardboard three inches long
and half-an-inch wide.

Fig. 55. Measure for marking the tucks.

Tucking. i . Put the right-hand end of the strip of
paper exactly to the right-hand end of the measure

(Fig- 55)-

2. One-eighth of an inch below the edge of the paper,
with the lead-pencil, make dots corresponding to each
line of the measure.

3. Hold the wrong side of the cloth towards you.

4. Half-an-inch from the right-hand edge of the cloth
lay the paper on, with the end marked a (Fig. 55) exactly
at the sewing of the hem.

5. Holding the paper and cloth even, put the large
needle through each dot.

6. Move the paper two inches to the left, and prick.

7. Again move the paper two inches to the left, and
prick.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

8. Turn to the right side, and, holding the hem towards
you, crease by a thread at the first horizontal line of
dots.

9. Holding the crease to the light of the window, see
if it is exactly by a thread.

10. Make a crease, by a thread, at the second, third
and fourth lines of dots.

1 1 . Fold the cloth down at the second crease.

Fig. 56. Showing the tucks basted.

12. Baste exactly by a thread on the first crease
(Fig. 56).

13. Fold the cloth at the fourth crease, and baste on
the third crease.

14. With the fine needle and thread, run each tuck
close to the basting, taking up as little of the cloth as
possible, and passing over twice as much.

Suggestions. Tucks are sometimes made lengthwise
of the cloth, and sometimes across the cloth. The width
and distance apart are a matter of choice.

PLAITING. 73

The chief difficulty is in measuring and folding them ;
when it is decided at what distance apart and what width
the tucks are to be made, a paper measure can be made
as follows. Make a mark as far from the end of the
paper, as the sum of the distance apart and the width of
the tucks ; make a second mark beyond the first mark,
the width of the tucks ; make a third mark as far from
the second mark, as the sum of the distance apart and
twice the width of the tucks ; make a fourth mark
beyond the third mark, the width of the tucks ; continue
as for the third and fourth marks. When two tucks have
been made, the next can be easily marked by folding the
wrong side together at the second tuck, and making pin-
holes at the folds of the first tuck. The edge of one
tuck may form the guide for measuring the next, though
it is better to mark and baste all the tucks for a short
distance. Narrow tucks, one-eighth of an inch apart, are
neat and pretty, but must be made very carefully, as the
difference of a thread is quickly noticed.

What is a tuck? What is its use? How should the tucks be sewed? Which
way of the cloth can they be made ? What is the chief difficulty in making tucks ?

PLAITING.

A plait is a fold made in a garment, for fulness or
trimming.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, pins, and a
piece of cloth nine and a half inches long and four inches
wide, with a narrow hem at the ends and lower edge.

Plaiting. i. On the raw edge of the cloth, with the
right side towards you, measure one inch from the right-

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

hand end, and mark it by cutting a small notch or insert
ing a pin vertically.

2. Mark every inch and a half to the left of this.

3. Fold the cloth at the first notch, and bring the fok
to the edge of the hem.

4. Insert a pin in the middle of the three thicknesses 01
cloth.

5. Fold at the next notch, and bring it exactly to the
underfold of the first plait.

Fig. 57. Showing basted plaits, half-an-inch wide-

6. Place a pin in the middle of the plait.

7. Fold and pin the other plaits in the same way.

8. Baste with even stitches, one-fourth of an inch from
the edge (Fig. 57).

Suggestions. Plaits can be laid either to the right 01
to the left. There can be spaces between the plaits, 01
they can meet, as in Fig. 57. If the plaits meet, the
material must be three times the length that it desired,
when finished. Box-plaiting is made by beginning at the

FELLING. 75

middle, and laying a plait to the right, and another to
the left ; double box-plaiting is made by adding more
side-plaits.

What is a plait ? What is its use? What different kinds of plaiting are there?

FELLING.

A fell is a seam hemmed down to protect the edges.

Materials. No. 8 and No. 9 needles, No. 50 and No. 80
thread, and two pieces of cotton cloth, each five inches
long and two inches wide.

Fig 58. Showing the seam basted.

Straight-way fell. i . Place the pieces of cloth together,
with one edge one-eighth of an inch below the other, and
baste a narrow seam (Fig. 58).

2. Sew the seam with a running and a backstitch.

3. Take out the basting thread, unfold the pieces of
cloth, and lay the seam over, so that the wider edge will
be uppermost.

4. Turn to the right side, and press carefully, exactly
at the sewing of the seam.

5. Make a narrow hem (Fig. 59), tucking the ravellings
under with the point of the needle.

7 6

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Suggestions. Hem a fell cut on the bias, with the
grain of the cloth, or from the wider part to the narrow,
as drawers from the top down. A fell can be made by

Fig. 59. Showing the fell partly' hemmed.

sewing it with the edges even, then pare one edge, being
careful to have the right side of the sewing come on the
upper side of the fell.

What is a fell ? What is its use ? How are the pieces of cloth placed together ?
What should be the width of the seam ? How should the seam be sewed ? What is
done, after the basting is removed ? What is done next ? How is a fell, cut on the
bias, hemmed ?

FRENCH SEAM.

A French seam is a neat manner of joining materials
that fray.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, scissors, and
two pieces of calico, each five inches long and two inches
wide.

French seam. i . Place the wrong sides of the calico
together.

2. Baste one-eighth of an inch from the edge.

3. Run directly under the basting.

SLIP OR BLIND-STITCH. 77

4. Cut the ravellings from the edges of the seam.

5. Turning the wrong side of the calico towards you,
fold the right sides together, and crease at the sewing of
the seam.

6. Baste, so that the raw edges are enclosed.

7. Half-backstitch the seam, being careful that no
ravellings can be seen on the right side.

Suggestion. Trimming can be put on in this manner,
having the seam very narrow.

What is a French seam ? Which sides of the cloth should be placed together ?
How wide a seam should be made? With what kind of stitches should the seam be
finished ?

FRENCH HEM ON DAMASK.

French hemming is used in hemming .table-linen.
Materials. No. 9 needle, No. 70 thread, and a strip of
cotton cloth or table-linen.

French hem. I . Crease a narrow hem.

2. Holding the wrong side towards you, fold and crease
the cloth, so as to make it even with the first fold of the
hem.

3. Proceed as in overhanding.

SLIP OR BLIND-STITCH.

A slip or blind-stitch is used to fasten a hem lightly.

Materials. No. 9 needle, No. 70 thread, and a strip of
cotton cloth.

Slip or blind-stitch. i . Fold and crease a hem half-an-
inch wide.

/ SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

2. Baste about a fourth of an inch from the edge.

3. Make a small knot in the thread.

4. Conceal the knot by drawing the needle through
the under part of the fold, one-eighth of an inch from
the end.

5. Take up one or two threads of the cloth, and before
drawing the needle through, take up one-fourth of an
inch of the edge of the fold.

6. Continue in this manner, being careful not to draw
the thread tightly.

7. Fasten securely.

Suggestions. This stitch is used for sewing hems on
woollen cloth, where it is desired to conceal the stitches.
Trimmings of silk and velvet are often put on with this
stitch.

For what is a slip or blind-stitch used? How are the stitches taken ?

EDGINGS AND RUFFLES.
An edging is a trimming on the border of a garment.

LACE EDGING.

Lace edging is made of fine threads woven into a net.

Materials. No. 9 needle, No. 70 thread, pins, half-
a-yard of inch-wide lace, and a piece of cotton cloth
six inches long and four inches wide, with a narrow hem
at the ends and upper edge, and an inch hem at the lower
edge.

Lace edging. I . Holding the scalloped edge towards
you, make a narrow hem at the right-hand end of the lace.

EDGINGS AND RUFFLES.

2. Holding the right sides of the lace and cloth
together, place the hemmed end of the lace at the top
edge of the upper left-hand corner of the cloth.

3. Holding the lace loosely, lightly overhand the edges
to within a fourth of an inch of the corner.

4. Run the needle in and out of the cloth, to keep it
temporarily secure.

5. Pin the lace at the corner.

Fig. 60. Showing lace sewed on, and corners turned.

6. Measure the width of the lace, and leaving twice the
width, pin again at the corner.

7. One-fourth of an inch beyond the corner, pin 'the
lace to the cloth.

8. Run a gathering thread in the edge of the lace,
from the overhanding to the last pin.

9. Overhand around the corner, bringing the fulness as
much as possible at the corner (Fig. 60).

10. Turn the other corner in the same manner, and
finish by hemming the end of the lace.

8O SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Suggestions. Lace can be sewed on full by dividing
the lace and the edge to which it is to be sewed, into
halves, quarters, etc.; and running a gathering thread
through the edge of the lace, before basting it on. In
turning corners, it is better to leave a little more than
twice the width of the lace, as there must be enough on
the outer edge, to prevent the lace from hooping. With
wide lace, leave more than one-fourth of an inch on each
side of the corner, for the fulness of the lace.

When measuring for the quantity of edging needed,
allow enough for the corners. When the ends of the lace
meet, join by a fell.

HAMBURG EDGING.

Hamburg edging is an embroidered edge, made by
machinery. It can be sewed on, when no fulness is
required, by a fell (page 75), a French seam (page 76), a
facing (page 52), or by overhanding ; when fulness is
required, by a facing (page 52), or by whipping (page 82).

When much wear will come on the edging, it is ad-
visable to overhand it, as it can then be easily removed ;
the raw edge of the Hamburg should first be overcast
with very fine thread. The corners should be turned, and
the ends sewed, as with lace.

RUFFLES.

Ruffles are made of various materials, and are plaited,
gathered, or whipped.

Materials. No. 8 and No. 9 needles, No. 40, No. 70,
and No. 80 thread, pins, scissors, and a piece of cotton
cloth six inches long and three inches wide, hemmed at
the ends and upper side ; for the facing, a piece of cloth

EDGINGS AND RUFFLES. 8 1

six inches long and one and a half inches wide ; for the
ruffle, a piece of cambric nine inches long and two inches
wide, with a very narrow hem at the ends and lower edge.
A ruffle faced on. i . Mark the raw edges of the ruffle
and the cloth, by notches, into halves and quarters. Also
mark the middle of the facing by a notch.

2. Gather the ruffle.

3. Place the right sides of the cloth and ruffle together,
and pin at the corresponding notches.

4. Draw up the gathering thread, and fasten around the
pin.

5. Adjust the gathers, and run exactly on the gathering
thread.

6. Pin the middle and ends of the facing to the ruffle,
and baste.

7. Turn the other side towards you, and half-backstitch
close below the running stitches.

8. Take out the basting threads.

9. Turn the facing over and crease it carefully at the
seam.

10. Baste and hem the opposite edge of the facing.
Suggestions. A heading on a ruffle can be made by

folding the required width for the heading, and gathering
it, making one or more rows as desired. The fulness of
the ruffle depends upon the material ; a narrow cambric
ruffle should be about one and a half times the length of
the part to which it is to be sewed. In making a ruffle of
more than one breadth, the ends should be joined neatly
before hemming or gathering.

What is an edging ? Of what is lace edging made ? How should the lace be held
in overhanding ? What allowance for fulness should be made in turning a corner ?
How should lace be sewed on, when fulness is required? What is Hamburg edging?
In what ways can it be sewed on, when there is no fulness ? When fulness is required ?
From what are ruffles made ? What is first done to the ruffle, the cloth, and the facing ?

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

WHIPPING.

Whipping is forming gathers by overcasting a rolled
edge of fine material, and drawing up the thread.

Materials. No. 6 and No. 8 needles, No. 40 and No. 60
thread, pins, scissors, a strip of paper, and a piece of
cotton cloth six inches long and four inches wide, with a
narrow hem on the ends and upper edge, and an inch hem
on the lower edge ; for the ruffle, a piece of plain cambric,
twelve inches long and two inches wide, with a narrow
hem on the ends and one side.

_ .- - " - aga^ss^^^gir T^r

Fig. 61 . Showing the rolling and overcasting of the ruffle.

Whipping. i . Practise rolling tightly the edge of the
piece of paper. It must be rolled, not folded.

2. Divide the edge of the inch hem, and the raw edge
of the cambric, into halves and quarters, and mark, one
inch from the edge, by cross-stitches.

3. Trim the ravellings from the raw edge.

4. Hold the wrong side of the cambric towards you.

5. Beginning at the right-hand corner, roll the first
half-inch of the cambric towards you, between the thumb
and the forefinger of the left hand.

WHIPPING. 83

6. Take the coarse needle and thread, and make a small
knot.

7. Inserting the needle at the corner, under the roll,
take one or two stitches, to fasten the end.

8. Hold the end of the roll between the right thumb
and forefinger, and, placing the cambric between the third
and little finger of the left hand, draw tightly.

9. Pressing the left thumb against the forefinger, rub
an inch of the edge upwards and downwards, until a
small, firm roll is made.

10. Overcast, as far as the cloth is rolled tightly, insert-
ing the needle under the roll (Fig. 61).

1 1. Draw up the thread, holding it on a line with the
raw edge. If the roll is small, and the stitches are taken
loosely and at regular intervals, the ruffle will draw easily
on the thread.

12. Continue, rolling and whipping an inch or two at a
time.

13. Placing the right sides of the rufHe and hem to-
gether, pin the divisions of the ruffle to the divisions of the
hem.

14. Draw up the ruffle to the length of the hem, and
wind the thread around the pin.

15. Holding the ruffle towards you, overhand, inserting
the needle in each fold of the whipping, so that the thread
will lie between the folds (Fig. 62).

1 6. Fasten both the whipping and the overhanding
thread.

Suggestions. The fingers should be perfectly clean, to
prevent soiling the work. In whipping, some prefer to
take hemming stitches instead of overcasting stitches.
A ruffle, for whipping, should be twice the length of the

8 4

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

part to which it is to be sewed ; it is sometimes advisable
to make it more than twice as full. A ruffle cut across the
cloth whips easier than one cut lengthwise. A fine ma-
terial whips more readily than a coarse one. Ruffles
should be cut by a thread, which can be done by tearing,
and then trimming the edges.

Fig. 62. Showing the overhanding.of the ruffle to the cloth.

It is best to use short lengths of thread, as a great strain
comes, when the ruffle is drawn. In making a long ruffle,
have a thread for each division, and measure as you draw
the thread. The thread will draw easier, if a large needle
is used. When corners are to be turned, allow extra ful-
ness, so that the ruffle will lie flat (page 79). In over-
handing a ruffle, the garment can be held towards you, but,
if the whipping thread should prove too short, there is no
way to lengthen it ; while, if the ruffle is held towards you,
the thread can be drawn up or lengthened.

What is whipping ? In whipping, which side of the ruffle should be held towards
you ? How do you begin ? What kind of a needle and thread should be used ? How
is the roll held ? How rolled ? What is done next ? How is the thread drawn ?
How continue ? How is the ruffle sewed on to the hem?

STOCKINET DARNING.

Stockinet darning is used in filling in a hole with
thread, so as to supply the part that has been destroyed ;
or in strengthening a place which shows signs of weak-
ness.

PRACTICE IN WEAVING.

Materials. A long-eyed needle, a knot of split zephyr,
a sharp-pointed lead-pencil, and a two and an eighth inch
square of cardboard.

Lattice-work. i . Turn to
the measure (page 13).

2. On one side of the card-
board half-an-inch from the
end, and one-fourth of an inch
from the edge, make a dot
with the pencil.

3. On a line with this dot,
make nine more dots exactly
one-eighth of an inch apart.

4. Mark the opposite side Fig. 63. Showing the weaving
with dots exactly parallel to

the other dots.

5. Make a knot in the zephyr and work across the
cardboard from dot to dot (Fig. 63), having the stitches
on the under side one-eighth of an inch long.

6. Weave across these threads by taking up and pass-
ing over a thread alternately (Fig. 63). Take a number
of threads on the needle at once.

7. Make the second row by taking up those threads,
which were passed over before.

or lattice-work of threads
over cardboard.

86 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

8. When the row is finished, leave a short loop of the
zephyr at the opposite end, and holding it firmly, draw
the zephyr until it is straight.

9. Continue in this manner, always taking up the
threads passed over in the previous row.

Suggestion. Coarse canvas can be used instead of
cardboard, and in the place of zephyr, a small cord or
coarse thread can be used.

STOCKINET DARNING.

Materials, A long-eyed needle, No. 7 needle, No. 50
thread, scissors, a small spool of embroidery silk, a piece
of cardboard or heavy paper three inches long and two
and a half inches wide, and a piece of woollen stockinet,
cut four inches lengthwise by a rib of the stockinet, and
three inches and a half across.

Stockinet darning. i. Place the cardboard on the
wrong side of the stockinet, leaving half-an-inch at each
side to be folded over the cardboard.

2. Baste one of the lengthwise edges of the stockinet,
having it folded exactly by a rib.

3. Drawing the stockinet smoothly across, fold the
opposite side by a rib, and baste.

4. Fold and baste the ends.

5. In the centre of the stockinet, cut a circle, three-
fourths of an inch in diameter.

6. Holding the stockinet lengthwise, begin at the right
side, half-an-inch from the edge of the circle (Fig. 64, a].

7. Pointing the large needle from you, take two
stitches, leaving half-an-inch of the end of the silk to be
cut off afterwards.

STOCKINET DARNING. 8/

8. With the needle pointing towards you, make the
next row of three stitches, taking up the threads of the
stockinet, that were passed over in the preceding row.

9. So continue, making each row a little longer at both
top and bottom, as in Fig. 64, till the centre of the circle
is reached ; then decrease in the same proportion
(Fig. 64).

Fig. 64. Showing a hole cut, and partly darned.

10. Be careful to put the needle through the loops of
the stockinet, at the edge of the circle.

1 1 . Cross the darn in the same manner, making per-
fect lattice- work, (Fig. 64).

Suggestions. The stockinet is put on the cardboard to
keep it in place while being worked, and silk is used that
the stitches may be easily seen, and also that the lesson
may be interesting. In mending a stocking, hold the

88 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

work across three fingers of the left hand. A darning
ball can be used, which prevents the fingers from being
pricked, but it is apt to stretch the stocking and the darn.
The darning can be done on either side of the stocking,
and should be worked as far as the stocking shows signs
of weakness ; it should first be worked vertically and
parallel to the ribs of the stocking. Loops of about one-
sixteenth of an inch can be left at each end, to provide
for shrinkage ; stretching the darn slightly, when it is
finished, will take up these loops.

The edge of a darn must never be made on one thread,
as a single thread is not strong enough to bear the strain;
a diamond or oval shape is better. It is wise to darn a
thin place before a hole appears. In mending a large
hole, draw out the rough ends, and, using a fine needle
and thread, bring the loops or threads as near as pos-
sible to their proper position. To retain the proper
shape of a large darn, begin the crossing at the middle
instead of the end. The darning yarn should correspond
in color and quality to the stocking. If too coarse a yarn
is used, a hard bunch is made.

For what is stockinet darning used ? How should the stockinet be held ? Where
should the darning begin ? How is the first row made ? How is the second row
made ? How continue ? What care should be taken at the edge of the circle ? How
should a darn be crossed ? In mending a stocking how should the work be held ?
What are the best shapes for darning ?

GRAFTING.

8 9

GRAFTING.

Grafting is joining two pieces of stockinet in such a
manner, as to render the joining invisible.

Materials. A long-eyed needle, two pieces of coarse
stockinet, and yarn the quality and color of the
stockinet.

Grafting. i. Ravel the two edges that are to be joined,
until the loops are perfectly even and clear.

Fig. 65. Showing grafting stitches, and needle in position.

2. Place the edges together, so that the loops of one
are exactly opposite the corresponding openings of the
other (Fig. 65).

3. Holding the right side towards you, work from right
to left.

4. Fasten the end of the yarn, by darning it in and out
on the wrong side of the stockinet.

5. Inserting the needle in an upper loop (Fig. 65, a),
bring it out in the next loop (Fig. 65, b).

6. Inserting the needle in the under loop (Fig. 65, c)

gO SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

opposite the last upper loop, bring it out in the next loop
(Fig. 65, d).

7. Continue, taking two upper loops, then two under
loops, using one new loop each time, which will cause the
needle to be inserted twice in each loop.

8. Fasten the yarn, by darning it in and out on the
wrong side.

Swiss-darning. The stitches in Swiss-darning are taken
in a manner similar to grafting, and are worked over the
stitches in the stockinet, to strengthen a thin place.

Suggestions. A patch in stockinet can be put in almost
invisibly as follows : cut a square or oblong hole in the
stockinet, carefully, by a thread, and ravel the sides until
the loops are even ; cut the patch, by a thread, the exact
size of the hole, and clear the loops ; graft in the top and
lower edges, and Swiss-darn the side edges together,
working over four or five stitches at each side of the
joining.

What is grafting ? What is first done ? How are the edges placed together ? How
are the stitches taken? How are the stitches taken in Swiss darning?

STOCKING-WEB STITCH.

Stocking-web stitches are used for filling in a hole in
stockinet, so as to present the same appearance as the
woven stockinet, and are made on a foundation of strands.

Materials. A long-eyed needle, No. 7 needle, No. 40
thread, a piece of coarse stockinet three inches square,
yarn to match in color and quality, and a piece of card-
board two inches square.

STOCKING- WEB STITCH. 9 1

Stocking-web stitches. I . In the centre of the stocki-
net, cut carefully, by a thread, an inch square.

2. Ravel the edges until the loops are clear and even.

3. With the wrong side of the stockinet to the card-
board, fold over the edges and baste carefully.

Fig. 66. Showing the foundation of strands for stocking-web stitches.

4. With the fine needle and thread, connect the upper
and lower loops, as in Fig. 66.

5. Hold the ribs of the stockinet vertically.

6. Having the coarse needle threaded with the yarn,
insert it one or two loops to the right of the lower row,
and one row above (Fig. 67, a).

7. Swiss-darn (page 90) over these stitches, and work
across the strands with a stitch similar to grafting, insert-

92 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

ing the needle between the strands in beginning and finish-
ing the loop (Fig. 67).

8. Finish the row by Swiss-darning over two or three
loops beyond.

Fig. 67. Showing stocking-web stitches, and needle in position.

9. Turn the work around, and one row above, work
back in a similar manner.

10. Continue working up the strands, and finish by
grafting the last row of loops made, to the loops of the
stockinet.

For what are stocking-web stitches used ? On what are they made ?

CLOTH DARNING. 93

CLOTH DARNING.

Cloth darning is used to strengthen worn places, or to
draw together the edges of a tear or cut.

STRAIGHTWAY-DARN.

Materials. No. 9 needle, No. 80 red, blue and pink
thread, and two pieces of cotton cloth, each three inches
and a half square.

Pink thread.
Blue thread.
Pink thread.

Fig. 68. Showing the cloth prepared by running lines, for practice in
darning a straightway-tear ; the blue thread representing the tear.

Straightway-tear, Darned with vertical stitches. A
blue thread represents the tear.

1. Crease across the middle of one of the squares of
cloth.

2. Leaving an inch and a fourth at each end, make a
running on the crease, with the blue thread (Fig. 68).

3. Make two creases, one, one-fourth of an inch above;
and one, one-fourth of an inch below the running.

4. Leaving an inch at both ends, make a running on
each crease, with pink thread (Fig. 68). (The pink threads
are boundary lines for the stitches).

5. Hold the tear over the cushion of the left fore-
finger.

6. Threading the needle with red thread, insert it at
the right of the lower pink line (Fig. 69, a).

7. Take six running stitches upwards, bringing the

94 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

needle out a little below the upper pink line (Fig. 69, b)
and leaving an end of the thread to be cut off later.

8. Finish the row, by in-
> serting the needle above the
line ; draw it through below
the line for beginning the
- i- \- \- >- H^a nex t r0 w.

Fig. 69. Showing the tear partly 9- Taking up the threads

darned with vertical stitches. of the cloth, which were

passed over in the preceding
row, bring the needle out a little above the lower pink line.

10. Insert the needle below the line, and draw it
through above the line for beginning the next row.

1 1 . Make two rows, between this row and the end of
the tear.

12. Beginning the fifth row above the lower line, put
the needle, at the third stitch, down through the blue line
or .tear (Fig. 69, c}.

13. Take two more stitches, bringing the needle out
below the upper pink line.

14. Finish the row ; and continue in the same manner,
always putting the needle at the third stitch, down
through the tear, to secure the edges.

15. In finishing the darn, make four rows beyond
the tear.

Straightway-tear. Darned ~ ~/^~ ^~ ?'
with slanting stitches. \ ' r c' \

1. Crease, and run a square V V \
of cloth as before (Fig. 68).

2. Threading the needle Fig. 70. Showing the tear partly

with red thread, insert it at darned with slantin ^ stitches '
the right of the lower pink line (Fig. 70, a).

CLOTH DARNING.

3. On a line, slanting so as to cut off one-eighth of an
inch on the opposite line, take six running stitches, bring-
ing the needle out a little below the upper line (Fig.
70, b), and leaving an end of the thread to be cut of later.

4. Insert the needle above the line, and pointing it
towards you, take six stitches on a line, all having the
same slant. Bring the needle out above the lower line at
the sixth stitch.

5. Insert the needle below the lower line and take six
stitches, having the same slant as before ; at the fourth
stitch, draw the needle down through the tear (Fig. 70, c).

6. Continue in this manner, always drawing the needle
down through the tear, at the fourth stitch.

7. In finishing the darn, make several rows beyond the
tear.

BIAS-DARN.

Materials. Same as for a straightway-darn (page 93).
Bias-darn, or across both the warp and the woof. A

blue thread represents the tear.

1. Crease the square of cloth diago-
nally from corner to corner.

2. Leaving two inches at each end,
run on the crease with blue

thread.

3. Make two creases, one,
one-fourth of an inch above ;
and one, one-fourth of an / /

inch below the running. /

4. Leaving an inch and a
fourth at both ends, make a

running on each crease with pink thread.

Fig. 7 I . Showing
a bias-darn.

9 6

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

5. Thread the needle with red thread.

6. At the right, and beyond the blue line or tear,
make four rows of eight stitches each, (as for a straight-
way-darn, page 94) on a line with the vertical threads of
the cloth (Fig. 71).

7. Beginning, the fifth row above the lower line, draw
the needle down through the tear at the fourth stitch
(Fig. 7 i,c).

8. Take three more stitches, bringing the needle out
below the upper line.

9. Insert the needle above the line, to finish the row ;
drawing it out below the line for the next row.

10. Continue in this manner, always drawing the
needle down through the tear, at the fourth stitch.

11. In finishing the darn, make several rows beyond
the tear.

CORNER-DARN.

Materials, Same as for a straightway-darn (page 93).
Corner-darn. A blue thread represents the tear.

1. Crease one side of the
cloth one inch from the edge.

2. At right angles with
the crease, make another
crease one inch from the
edge.

3. Call the vertex of the
angle a (Fig. 72).

4. With the pink thread
run on the crease, on both

sides of the angle, one and a half inches from point a
(Fig. 72).

'%:

\ |

______

^\\

\ Fig. 72. Show-
ing the cloth
prepared for
practice in
darning a cor-
ner-tear,and the

corner darned.

CLOTH DARNING. 97

5. Crease an angle half -an -inch inside the first
angle.

6. With the pink thread, run on the crease, on both
sides of the angle, one inch (Fig. 72).

7. Crease half-way between the two angles, and run with
blue thread.

8. Using red thread, make a large knot (cut it off after-
wards), and insert the needle from the right side, at the
corner (Fig. 72, b}. The knot is made to aid in drawing
up the corner.

9. Run to point a, putting the needle down through
the tear, at the fourth stitch.

10. Slightly curving to the right, return to point b.

1 1 . Make a row very close and to the left of the first
row, taking the stitches alternately.

12. Slightly curving to the left, return to point b.

13. At the left, make a row directly on a line with a
thread of the cloth, to the outer pink line.

14. Make a curved line at the right to point b.

15. On the opposite side of the corner, make a row on
a line with a thread of the cloth, as far as the outer pink
line.

1 6. Making a line, curving to the left, return to
point b.

17. Beginning at the corner, darn both sides with ver-
tical stitches (page 94), or slanting stitches (page 94).

DARNING WITH A PIECE UNDERNEATH.

In darning a tear, where the garment is worn thin, or is
badly torn and ravelled, a piece of cloth should be placed
underneath.

98 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

1 . Cut the piece larger than the tear, being careful to
match the grain of the cloth, also the figures and stripes.

2. Draw the tear into place, and baste the right side of
the piece to the wrong side of the garment, matching it
exactly.

3. Baste around the edge of the tear.

4. Take either vertical stitches (page 94), or slanting
stitches (page 94), through both thicknesses of cloth.

5. If the hole is large, darn the sides of the tear sepa-
rately, tucking the ravellings under with the point of the
needle, as you come to them.

6. After the darn is finished, lightly secure the piece
on the wrong side, or cut it off near the darning.

FINE DRAWING ON HEAVY WOOLLEN MATERIAL.

1 . Use very fine sewing silk, and hold the edges of the
tear flat upon the left forefinger.

2. Inserting the needle half-an-inch below the edge of
the tear, run it through half the thickness of cloth, con-
cealing the silk.

3. Inserting the needle in the opposite edge, run
through the cloth in the same manner.

4. Draw the edges closely together.

5. Continue in this manner, being careful not to lap the
edges.

6. Brush up the nap on the right side.

7. Dampen, and press on the wrong side with a hot
iron.

It is better to do the darning on the wrong side; but, if
the garment is lined, it may be done on the right side,

CLOTH DARNING.

being careful to insert the needle in the cloth exactly
where it came out.

Another way to darn a tear on heavy material is to
overcast the raw edges closely together, on the wrong side,
then rub the seam open and darn lightly.
Lay a wet cloth over the darn, and press.
To make a perfectly flat seam on sel-
vedges or heavy woollen cloth, the edges
may be joined, as in Fig. 73.

Suggestions. The aim in darning a tear
is to repair the rent so nicely that it can
not be perceived. In darning twilled ma-
terial, instead of taking the stitches alter-
nately, make them in slanting rows to cor-
respond with the twill. A rent should be
repaired with fine thread or silk, matching
the material in quality and color ; if the same color can
not be obtained, use lengthwise ravellings of the material.
On fine woollen goods, hair can be used, and the needle
should be threaded with the root. When darning with
very fine thread or ravellings, use short needlefuls. As
fine a needle as possible should be used.

Darning can be done on the right or wrong side, accord-
ing to the material. For a tear in coarse material, the
stitches should be taken more than one-fourth of an inch
from the edge. The closeness of the rows of stitches
depends upon the material and the tear. Edges should
always be worked in and out alternately to secure them.
Always protect the ends of a tear by darning beyond them.
To keep the edges of a long tear even, it is best to begin
to darn in the middle. When a darn is finished, it should

IOO SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

be dampened and pressed on the wrong side, or a thin,
damp cloth can be laid on the right side and pressed. To
mend a rip in the seam of a kid-glove, overhand the edges
together on the right side, using fine thread or sewing silk
matching the color of the glove. If there is a strain
coming on the seam, button-hole stitch the edges, and
then overhand the purls of the stitches together.

For what is cloth darning used ? How should the tear be held ? Where should
the needle be inserted ? What kind of stitches should be taken ? What threads are
taken up in the second row ? Where should the needle be put at the third stitch in
the fifth and succeeding rows ? How should the stitches on a bias-darn be taken ?
Where should the needle be inserted in a corner-darn ? Why is a knot made ?
How many rows of stitches are made at the corner ? What is the aim in darning ?
What can be used instead of thread ? What should be done after a darn is finished ?
How should a kid-glove be mended ?

PATCHING.

A patch is a piece of cloth, sewed on to a garment to
repair it.

HEMMING ON A PATCH.

Materials, No. 9 needle, No. 80 thread, scissors, pins,
and a piece of cotton cloth, five inches square ; for the
patch, a piece of cloth four inches square.

Hemming on a patch. i . Crease the garment, repre-
sented by the large piece of cloth, through, and across the
centre (Fig. 74).

2. Mark the centre by a pin-hole, and half-an-inch from
the centre on each crease, make a pin-hole.

3. Crease a square on a line with the holes, and by a
thread (Fig. 74, a, b, c, and d).

4. Cut out the square on the creasing, being careful
about the corners.

PATCHING.

101

5. Cut diagonally one-fourth of an inch at each corner
(Fig. 74, /, 2,3, and^).

6. Fold and crease each edge of the hole, by a thread,
and baste.

7. Cut off each corner of the patch one-fourth of an
inch deep.

Fig. 74. Showing the large piece of cloth with the dotted lines
representing where it is creased, and the plain lines where it should be
cut.

8. Holding the right side of the patch towards you, fold
towards you, and crease, by a thread, one-fourth of an inch
deep, on all four sides.

9. Crease through, and across the centre of the patch.

102

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

I o. Place the garment on the desk, with the wrong side
upwards.

1 1 . Place the folded edges of the patch upon the gar-
ment, witJi the warp of the two pieces parallel.

12. Match the creases, and put in pins.

Fig. 75. Showing the right side of a figured-calico patch, hemmed.

13. With each edge of the patch even with a thread of
the garment, baste ; turning the corners neatly, by tucking
the extra fold underneath with the point of the needle.

14. Turn the other side towards you, and pin the edges
of the hole down at each corner.

15. Baste, keeping each edge on a thread of the patch.

PATCHING.

103

1 6. Hem the garment to the patch, being careful to
firmly sew the corners, keeping them at right angles.

17. On the other side, hem the patch to the garment,
allowing the stitches to appear as little as possible on the

right side.

Pig. 75. Showing the right side of a figured -calico patch, over handed,

1 8. Take out the basting threads, and press on the
wrong side.

OVERHANDING ON A PATCH.

Materials. Same as before, with the cloth for the patch
three inches square.

Overhanding on a patch. i . Crease the garment, repre-

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

sented by the large piece of cloth, through, and across the
centre (Fig. 74).

2. Cut a small piece out of the centre, to aid later in
cutting the hole.

3. Cut across each corner of the patch one-fourth of an
inch deep.

Fig. 77. Showing the wrong side of a figured -calico patch, overhanded.

4. Holding the wrong side of the patch towards you,
make a crease, by a thread, one-fourth of an inch deep, on
the four sides.

5. Crease through, and across the centre of the patch.

6. Place the garment on the desk, with the right side
upwards.

PATCHING. IO5

7. Place the folded edges of the patch upon the gar-
ment, with the warp of the two pieces parallel.

8. Match the creases, and put in pins.

9. With the edges of the patch even with the threads of
the garment, baste ; turning the corners neatly, by tuck-
ing in the extra fold underneath.

10. Holding the patch towards you, fold and crease the
garment even with one edge of the patch.

1 1 . Holding the two edges securely, overhand them,
sewing the corners firmly.

12. Fold and overhand the next side in the same man-
ner, and so continue, till all the sides are overhanded
(Fig. 76).

13. Take out the basting threads.

14. Turn the wrong side towards you, and carefully cut
a hole in the garment, one-fourth of an inch inside the
overhanding stitches.

15. At each corner, cut diagonally to the overhanding
stitches.

1 6. Open the seam and overcast all the edges (Fig. 77),
or work them with the blanket-stitch.

17. Dampen the seams, and press on the wrong side.

CATCH-STITCHING ON A FLANNEL PATCH.

Materials. No. 9 needle, fine silk to match the flannel,
pins, and a piece of flannel five inches square ; for the
patch, a piece of flannel three inches and a half square.

Catch-stitching on a patch. i . Crease the garment,
represented by the large piece of flannel, through, and
across the centre (Fig. 74).

2. Mark the centre by inserting a pin ; and one inch
from the middle of each crease, insert a pin.

io6

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

3. Crease a square, by a thread, on a line with the pins.

4. Cut the square out on the creasing, being careful in
cutting the corners.

5. Crease through, and across the centre of the patch.

6. Place the garment on the desk, with the wrong side
upwards.

;

SAAAAAA/y

1 <

1 ^

1 >/

i j/

i V

1 y

^ ^

1 y

^ >

cx><x x>< ScX' ^

Fig. 78. Showing the right side of the patch; the straight lines repre-
sent the edges of the hole.

7. Place the right side of the patch upon the garment,
with the nap of the two pieces running the same way.

8. Match the creases, and put in pins.

9. With each edge of the patch even with a thread of
the garment, baste one-fourth of an inch from the edge.

PATCHING.

ID/

10. Holding the garment towards you, baste one-fourth
of an inch from the edge of the hole.

11. Draw the needle through the garment from under-
neath, one-eighth of an inch from the raw edge.

12. Catch-stitch (see page 1 1 7) around the square, taking
the inner stitches through the patch, close to the edge of

>
1>

vvyWvWxv V \

<
<;

Fig. 79. Showing the wrong side of the patch ; the straight lines
represent the edges of the patch.

the garment ; and the outside stitches one-eighth of an
inch from the edge, and through both thicknesses of cloth
(Fig. 78).

13. Turning the wrong side towards you, catch-stitch in
the same manner, the edges of the patch to the garment
(Fig. 79)-

IO8 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

14. Take out the basting threads, and press on the
wrong side.

Suggestions. In practical mending, judgment and con-
sideration are necessary, and the material should be treated
as common sense suggests ; the object is to replace the
torn or worn part with as little display as possible.

A patch can be put on in various ways : as, hemming
on the right side and overcasting the raw edges together
on the wrong side ; it can also be put on by stitching.
A patch can be overhanded on the wrong side, so that the
stitches may show less, but the corners are not easily
turned. Catch-stitching should be used, when the material
does not easily ravel, as on flannel. Thin, woollen materials
can be hemmed. When a material is worn, it is better to
hem the patch on, for, if it is overhanded, the strain comes
on one thread at each side.

Stripes, checks and figures should always match, as
otherwise they attract attention. Care must be taken to
have the warp and the woof of the patch run the same way
as those of the garment, the straightest threads of the
cloth generally represent the warp. The nap must also
run in the same direction, which can be ascertained by
passing the hand lightly over it. A patch ca?^ be either
square or oblong, according to the shape of the damaged
part, but should be large enough to cover the worn place.
Fine thread or silk, matching the material, should be used ;
silk should be chosen a shade darker than the material, as
it will work lighter.

What is a patch ? What is its use ? In hemming on a patch, on which side of
the garment should the patch be placed ? On which side, in overhanding on a patch ?
How should the wrong side of an overhanded patch be finished ? What stitch is used
in patching flannel ? Which side of the garment is the patch placed upon ? What is
the object of patching ? What care should be taken concerning the warp and the woof ?

BIAS PIECING.

IO9

BIAS PIECING.

Bias piecing is the joining of two diagonal edges of
cloth.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, pins, scissors,
and a piece of calico five inches square, cut by a thread.

Fig, 80. Showing the strips placed in a line before joining.

Bias piecing. I . Fold the square diagonally, from
corner to corner.

2. Crease the fold, and cut on the crease.

3. From each piece of calico, cut two bias strips, each
being one inch wide.

4. With the right sides upwards, place the strips on the
desk in a line for joining, as in Fig. 80.

Fig. 81 . Showing the two edges sewed.

5. Place the right sides of the two middle pieces
together, with the edges of the ends that are to meet
even,

6 Move the edge of the upper piece, one-fourth of an
inch to the left (Fig. 81).

I IO SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

7. Holding the edges securely, insert the needle at a
(Fig. 81) and sew across to b (Fig. 81), with a running
and a backstitch.

8. Press open the seam, and cut off the corners that
protrude.

9. Join the other two pieces in a similar manner,
except that the upper edge must be moved to the right.

Suggestions. To join the ends evenly, the seam must
be begun at the vertex of one of the angles, formed at
the side by the two pieces of cloth, and finished at the
other. When many bias strips are required, they can be
easily and accurately cut, by measuring for four widths,
and then cutting into halves and quarters.

What is bias piecing ? Where should you begin so as to join the ends evenly ?
Where finish ?

PIPING.

Piping is a cord covered with material cut on the bias,
and is used to strengthen and finish the edge of a
garment.

Materials. No. 8 needle, 'No. 60 thread, a small cord
eleven and a half inches long, a bias strip of cotton cloth
twelve inches long and one inch wide and a piece of
cotton' cloth eleven and a half inches long, four inches
wide, hemmed at the ends and one side.

Piping. i . Place the cord on the wrong side of the
bias strip, one-fourth of an inch from the lengthwise
edge, and one-fourth of an inch from the end.

2. Fold the end of the bias strip, and then folding the
edge over, baste close to the cord.

CORNERS MITRED.

3. Holding the cord downwards, place the wrong side of
the strip to the right side of the piece of cloth, with the
raw edge of the fold even with the raw edge of the cloth.

4. Sew the piping to the edge, with a running and a
backstitch, keeping close to the cord.

5. Turn to the wrong side, and hem the opposite edge
down .

What is piping? For what is it used?

CORNERS MITRED.

To mitre a corner is to join two edges of cloth, so that
they form a right angle.

To MITRE Two STRIPS OF CLOTH.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, scissors, and
a piece of calico five inches square, cut by a thread.

To mitre two strips of cloth. i . Fold and
crease the square diagonally from corner to

corner.

2. Cut on the
crease.

3. From one of

the pieces cut two
bias strips, each
strip being one inch Fig. 82. Show-
wide. in the two

ends basted.
4. Place the

right sides of the strips of calico
Fig. 83. -Showingthe right together, so that the two ends are

side of a mitred corner. exactly even (Fig. 82).

112

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

5. Holding the ends even, half-backstitch, by a thread,
one-fourth of an inch from the edge (Fig. 82).

6. Press the seam open, and trim the corners (Fig. 83).

To MITRE THE CORNERS OF A HEM.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, pins, scissors,
and a piece of cotton cloth five inches square, cut by a
thread.

Fig. 84. Showing the corner creased Fig. 85. Showingthe corner
for cutting. and hems basted.

To mitre the corner of a hem. i . Cut off me corner,
one-fourth of an inch deep.

2. Fold, one-fourth of an inch, the two sides which are
at right angles with this corner, and crease by a thread.

3. On each side make a crease, by a thread, one inch
from the edge of the fold (Fig. 84), for a hem.

4. Make a pin-hole where the creases meet (Fig. 84, a).

5. Open all the folds, and make a diagonal crease
across the corner, one-fourth of an inch outside the pin-
hole (Fig. 84).

LOOPS OF TAPE. 113

6. Cut on the crease.

7. Holding the bias edge of the cloth, at the upper
left-hand side, fold and baste, by a thread, the upper hem.

8. Fold and crease the bias edge one-fourth of an inch.

9. Fold the hem at the side, making the edges of the
two hems meet at a right angle (Fig. 85).

10. Baste the corner fold and side hem.

11. Hem the folds down, taking the stitches at the
corner fold through only one thickness of cloth.

What is mitreing a corner ? How are the strips placed together ? How should
the edges of the two hems meet ?

LOOPS OF TAPE.

Fold the middle of the tape so as to
form a point, as in Fig. 86. Overhand
the inner edges for three-fourths of an
inch, beginning at the ends. Fold the
ends under, one-fourth of an inch, and
place them on the wrong side of the
cloth, one-half an inch from the edge.
Baste and hem them down on three
sides. Turn to the right side, and stitch Fig 86 _ Showing a

the edge of the cloth to the loop.

loop of tape.

PART III.

ORNAMENTAL STITCHES.

HEM-STITCH.

Hem-stitching is a method of hemming, in which the
threads of the cloth are drawn and separated.

Materials. No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a length-
wise strip of linen crash.

Hem-stitch, from right to left. i . One inch from a
lengthwise edge of the
cloth, draw out from
four to six threads (see
suggestions) according
to the coarseness of the
cloth.

2. Carefully baste the
hem to the line thus
drawn.

. 87. -Showing hem-stitching done
from right to left, needle in position.

3. Begin at the right-hand side, as for hemming.

4. Pointing the needle towards you, take up three or
four cross-threads, and draw the thread through.

5. Put the needle back, take up the same threads, and
insert the needle exactly above in the fold of the hem
(Fig. 87).

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

6. Continue in the same manner, drawing the thread
tight, to separate the cross-threads.

Hem-stitch, from left to right. i . Draw the threads,

and baste the hem as

before.

2. Fasten the thread
in the hem, at the left-
hand side.

3. Pointing the needle
towards you, take up

Fig. 88. Showing hem-stitching done
from left to right, needle in position.

four cross-

three or
threads.

4. Draw the needle through, and insert it in the fold of
the hem exactly above where it was inserted under the
cross-threads (Fig. 88).

5. Continue in the same manner, drawing the thread
tight.

Suggestions. To draw the threads, choose a coarse
thread, one-fourth of an inch from the edge, and pick it
out with the point of the needle. Holding this end with
the right hand, draw it out carefully, continually pushing
the gathers towards the opposite end with the left hand.
Should the thread break, hold the cloth to the light, and
again pick out the end of the thread. The chief difficulty
is in drawing the first thread. Threads can be drawn any
width desired.

Hem-stitching can be done either lengthwise or cross-
wise of the cloth. On fine materials, do not courit the
threads, as it is too great a strain on the eyes, and for
this reason, school-girls should not do much drawn-work.

CATCH-STITCH.

117

CATCH OR HERRINGBONE-STITCH.

Catch-stitch is a kind of cross-stitch, used to secure the
edges of flannel.

Materials. A long-eyed needle, a knot of split zephyr,
and a piece of canvas.

Fig. 89. Showing catch- Fig. 90. Showing a corner turned,
stitches, and the needle in and the needle in position for turning

position ; the straight lines a corner,

represent the threads of
the canvas.

Catch-stitch, i . Work from you, holding the canvas
over the left forefinger.

2. Insert the needle from underneath, at the lower
left-hand corner.

3. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count
to the right four threads, then forward four threads ;

I I 8 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

insert the needle, and pointing it towards you take up
two threads.

4. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count
to the left four threads, then forward four threads, and
take up two threads as before.

5. Continue in the same manner, making the stitches
to the right, then to the left ; the zephyr crossing diago-
nally (Fig. 89).

6. Notice that the little cross at one side, comes
between the crosses on the opposite side, and that the
needle comes out on a line with its insertion for the pre-
vious stitch.

7. Turn the corner, by taking a stitch at the left,
insert the needle at the right, and pointing it towards the
left, take up two threads (Fig. 90). Turn the canvas, and
holding the next side across the left forefinger, continue
as before (Fig. 90).

Suggestions. In catch-stitching on flannel, small knots
may be made if they can be concealed. When ending,
fasten the thread by running it in and out under the last
stitch. The thread can be fastened in beginning and
finishing, by leaving an end to be sewed over and over
with fine cotton on the wrong side.

The raw edge of a hem on woollen material may be
fastened by catch-stitches, to avoid the ridge formed by
folding the edge. The edges of a seam in flannel may be
fastened in several ways ; the seam may be folded to one
side, and the edges fastened by a row of catch-stitches ;
the seam may be opened and each edge fastened sepa-
rately ; or, with the seam opened, a row of catch-stitches
may be put in thenniddle.

FEATHER-STITCH.

Feather-stitching is used for ornamenting garments, etc.
Materials. A long-eyed needle, a knot of split zephyr,
and a piece of canvas.

Pig. 91. a> Showing single feather-stitches, taken on a line with the
threads of the cloth ; b, showing double feather-stitches, taken on
a line with the threads of the cloth; c, showing single feather-
stitches, taken slanting across the threads of the cloth ; d, showing
double feather-stitches, taken slanting across the threads of the
cloth ; e, showing treble feather-stitches, taken slanting across the
threads of the cloth.

holding

the

Feather-stitch. i . Work towards you,
canvas over the left forefinger.

2. Draw the needle through from underneath at the
upper left-hand corner (Fig. 91, b}.

3. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count
two threads to the right, insert the needle, and pointing
it towards you take up two threads of the canvas.

I2O

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

4. Draw the needle out over the zephyr, which is held
down by the thumb.

5. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count
two threads to the right, and take a stitch as before.

6. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count
two threads to the left, and take a stitch, being careful to
hold the zephyr down with the thumb.

7. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count
two threads to the left, and take another stitch.

8. Continue taking the stitches in this way (Fig. 91, b).

Suggestions, - - For fastening the thread see catch-
stitching (page 1 1 8). This stitch may be changed into
various designs, as in Fig. 91. Whatever the pattern,
the stitches should be compact and uniform.

Fig. 92.

chain

needle

CHAIN-STITCH.

Chain-stitching is a method of em-
broidering, by which the stitches
resemble a chain.

Materials. An embroidery needle,
embroidery silk, and a strip of cloth.

Chain-stitch. i . Work towards you,
holding the cloth over the left fore-
finger.

2. Draw the needle through from
underneath at the upper end, a short
distance from the edge.

3. Holding the thread to the left
- Showing with the t h um b, insert the needle where

-stitches,

in position, the thread comes out, and bring it

KENSINGTON OUTLINE-STITCH.

through one-eighth of an inch below, and over the
thread to form the loop.

4. Continue in this manner, always inserting the
needle inside the loop of the last stitch, and being careful
to take the same number of threads on the needle for
each stitch.

Suggestion. Chain-stitching is often used for outlining
a pattern.

KENSINGTON OUTLINE-STITCH.

Kensington outline-stitching is done by taking a long
stitch forward on the upper side, and a short stitch back-
ward on the under-side of the cloth, and is used to form a
line for ornament.

Materials. An embroidery needle,
embroidery silk, and a strip of
cloth.

Kensington outline-stitch. i . Work
from you, holding the cloth over the
left forefinger.

2. Draw the needle through from
underneath, at the lower end.

3. Insert the needle one-eighth of
an inch above, and two or three
threads to the right, bringing it out
at the left one-sixteenth of an inch
above the place where the thread
comes through the cloth (Fig. 93).

4. Continue in this way, keeping the thread to the right
of the needle, and being careful not to draw the stitches
tight.

Fig. 93, Showing Ken-
sington outline-stitches,
needle in position.

122 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Suggestions. Some prefer keeping the thread to the
left of the needle. Stem-stitching is similar to outline-
stitching, except that the needle is put farther back.

BLANKET-STITCH.

Blanket-stitching is used to secure and ornament the
edges of woollen material.

Materials. An embroidery needle, embroidery silk,
and a strip of flannel.

Blanket-stitch. i . Work from left to right, holding

the edge of the flannel towards
you.

2. Beginning at the corner,
insert the needle one-fourth of
an inch from each edge, and

Fig. 94. Showing \ I / take two runnin g stitches to
blanket - stitches, NK the edge, leaving an end of

the thread to be cut off after-
wards. This brings the thread in position for working.

3. Holding the thread under the left thumb, put the
needle in where it was first inserted.

4. Draw the needle through and over the thread

(Fig- 94)-

5. Holding the thread down with the thumb, insert the

needle one-fourth of an inch to the right, and parallel with
the previous stitch.

6. Draw the needle through, and over the thread,
being careful that the thread lies loosely on the edge of
the flannel.

BLANKET-STITCH.

I2 3

7. Continue in this manner.

8. To fasten the thread, turn to the wrong side, take a
running stitch under the last blanket-stitch. Draw the
thread through, and cut it off.

Fig. 95. Showing blanket-stitches taken in different forms.

9. To join the thread, put the needle in under the last
stitch, as in beginning the work, and draw it out over the
thread that lies along the edge.

Suggestions. If the
thread is not fastened
and joined carefully,
the symmetry of the
stitches will be broken.
The order of the

stitches may be varied .

Fig. 96. Showing a bor-

by taking them at dif- der of blanket-stitches,
ferent depths, and needle in position.
leaving spaces between, as in Fig. 95.

A pretty border can be made with this stitch (Fig. 96),
by making the first row the desired width from the edge,
and taking the stitches for the second row through those
of the first row, and so on.

124

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

EMBROIDERY KNOTS.

Embroidery knots are used for ornamentation.
Materials, An embroidery needle, embroidery silk,
and a piece of flannel.

Embroidery knot No. 1. i. Holding
the flannel over the left forefinger,
draw the needle through from under-
neath, at the place desired for the
knot.

2. Take a small backstitch leaving
the needle half-way through the flannel.

3. Take the ,- _ ^ == ^== f
silk, where it

comes through the
flannel, and wind

M * twice around the

broidery knot No. I ,

and the needle in needle (Fig. 97).

P sition - 4. Holding the

coil under the left thumb, draw the
needle through and insert it where
it came through the flannel, bringing
it out where the next knot is to be

Fig. 98. Showing em-
broidery knot No. 2,

Embroidery knot No. 2. i. Holding and the needle in
the flannel over the left forefinger, Position.
draw the needle through from underneath, at the place
desired for the knot.

2. Draw the silk towards you to the left ; holding it
under the thumb, bring the silk to the right, and cross
below where the silk came out of the flannel (Fig. 98, a).
Hold the loop thus formed under the thumb.

MARKING. 125

3. Insert the needle one or two threads back of a,
bring it out at a, and pass it through the loop (Fig. 98).

4. Draw the needle and silk out straight upwards.

5. Insert the needle again at a, and bring it out where
the next knot is to be made.

MARKING.

Page 126 consists of capital letters ; page 127 consists
of small letters and upright numerals ; page 128 consists
of small letters, suitable for fine material, and slanting
numerals.

The material, thread and needle should correspond.
The marking stitch consists of a cross-stitch taken over
two threads of the canvas. To make the stitch, draw the
needle through from underneath at the lower rig/it-hand
corner of the square for the stitch ; insert the needle at
the upper /eft-hand corner, bringing it out at the lozver
/eft-hand corner ; insert the needle at the 2ipper rig/it-hand
corner, and bring it out at the lower rig/it-hand corner of
the next stitch.

Make no "knots, but leave an end of the thread to be
worked over with the first stitches, or it can afterwards
be run in and out under the letter. Fasten the thread in
the same manner. The stitches should all be crossed the
same way ; the thread should be fastened after finishing
a letter, not carried from one to another. Have the back
of the work look neat.

When marking on canvas is understood, fine material
can be easily marked, by basting a piece of scrim over the
place to be worked, and, after taking the stitches, draw-
ing out the threads of the scrim.

|| ! :::::;

126

127

PART IV.

DRAFTING, CUTTING, AND MAKING
GARMENTS.

A few general directions for the cutting of garments
are here given.

A table or lap-board, large enough to lay the entire
pattern upon, is required ; also paper, sharp shears,
weights, pins, tape-measure, needles, and thread.

The first thing to be observed in cutting is whether the
cloth has a right and a wrong side. If it has a design,
consider the heavier part as the bottom ; a vine should
run upwards ; the nap on the cloth should run down-
wards.

Before cutting, ascertain if there is sufficient cloth by
laying the different parts of the pattern upon the cloth in
such positions, that the cloth will not be unnecessarily
wasted ; being careful in regard to the up and down of
the cloth. When there is a scarcity of material, the
underneath parts of the sleeves may be pieced, hems may
be faced, and the small pieces may often be used for the
trimmings.

The length of the main parts of a garment (as back,
front, and sleeves) should be cut parallel to the selvedge
or warp of the cloth. Fig. 102 represents a wrapper
placed on cloth, which is folded lengthwise through the

129

130

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

middle; the edge of the front is placed on the selvedge, and

the back on the fold of the
cloth, to avoid a seam at the
back of the skirt. The ver-
tical perforations in the side-
back and both portions of the
sleeve are placed lengthwise
of the cloth. The perfora-
tions near the edges of the
patterns show the seams,
where alterations should be
made. The perforations near
the centre of the front indi-
cate where the darts should
be taken up.

In cutting plain goods, two
similar parts can be cut at
once by folding either the
right or the wrong sides to-
gether ; the selvedges or edges
of the material should first be
pinned together to prevent
slipping. When the cloth can
not be doubled, great care
must be taken not to cut
similar parts (as sleeves) for
the same side ; this can al-
ways be avoided by laying
one part upon the material,
with either the right or
wrong sides together.
Fig. 102. Wrapper. Having the cloth spread

DRAFTING, ETC., GARMENTS. 13!

out evenly, place a weight or insert a pin at the middle
of each part of the pattern. Smoothing out each part
from the middle, pin it to the cloth, being careful to place
pins closely at the middle of the darts, at the curves, and
one at each corner of the pattern. Cut evenly and close to
the edge of the pattern, and be very particular at the curves.

Linings should be cut and basted carefully on to the
wrong side of the cloth, before cutting the cloth. The
notches on the edges of the pattern should only be cut in
the lining.

In cutting linings or unlined garments, the marks for
the seams may be made by a tracing-wheel, or they may
be pricked with a large needle. Where there are perfora-
tions, a pencil or chalk may be used. When two parts of
a garment are cut at once, especially on woollen materials,
the following tailor's method of marking the perforations
may be used, pin the pattern securely through both
thicknesses of cloth. With a coarse, doubled thread take
the first stitch in the centre of the perforation and through
both thicknesses of cloth ; take another stitch in the same
place, and, in drawing the thread through, leave a loop the
size of a pencil. At the next perforation make a similar
stitch, leaving the thread loose between the perforations,
and so continue, until all the perforations are marked.
Then cut out the parts, separate the two edges of cloth,
as far as the thread will permit, and carefully cut the
threads midway between the two edges. Cut the long
stitch on the upper side, in the middle, and remove the
paper pattern. The threads left in the cloth serve as a
guide for basting.

Matching. A plaided, striped, or figured cloth requires
great care in cutting. If the breadths of a skirt made

132 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

from a checked or evenly plaided material are cut off in
the middle of a check, the breadths will readily match.
In other plaids or designs, cut the lower edge of each
breadth on the same line of the plaid or design. In cut-
ting a garment, similar to a dress-waist, which opens in
front, first decide what part of the plaid, stripe, or design
will look best for the middle of the front and back. Then
lay the pattern for the front on the cloth, so that the
outer fold of the hem is one-eighth of an inch (or one-half
of the width to be lapped) beyond the middle desired.
Cut this side out, and cut the other half of the front, by
laying the part already cut on the cloth, with the right
sides together, and plaids or designs exactly matching.
Lay the pattern for the back on the cloth, so that the
back edge of the pattern is one-fourth of an inch beyond
the middle desired ; this allows for the seam. Cut the
other half of the back as in cutting the second half of the
front.

In order to cut twilled material on the bias, with the
twill perpendicular, the cloth must be folded at right
angles to the twill. To do this, lay the cloth lengthwise
on the table, with the right side downward, fold over the
lower right-hand corner, and cut on the fold. Linings for
broad hems or a curved edge (as a hat) should be cut on
the bias (see page n).

Cotton cloth, calico, or flannel may be torn (page 9),
when a straight edge is required ; linen should be cut by
first drawing a thread (page 1 16).

Drafting. The following rules for drafting are given
as suitable in ordinary cases, but the drafter should use
discretion in regard to personal taste and prevailing
styles.

TWO-BREADTH APRON. 133

In the illustrations, each square represents an inch.
Dots are marked by letters, lines are marked by numbers.
Remember that the dot is the important mark, the letter
being but a name to the dot, and may be placed in any
convenient position near the dot.

TWO-BREADTH APRON.

A two-breadth % apron, one yard long, having a four inch
hem, requires two and one-fourth yards of material.

1 . Find half of the length of the material, tear across,
or fold and cut on the fold.

2. Fold the lengthwise edges of one of the pieces
together.

3. One and one-half inches each side of the fold, tear
the entire length, or fold again one and one-half inches
from the edge of the fold and cut both thicknesses of
material on the last fold. This gives a strip for the bind-
ing and the two side-breadths.

Making-. Sew the raw edges of the side-breadths to
the front-breadth, thus avoiding a seam in the middle. If
desired, hem the sides. Make a four inch hem at the
lower edge, overhanding the ends of the hem before
hemming. Gather the upper edge and put it into the
band, being very careful to sew securely at the ends of
the gathers, as this is where a strain comes. The fulness
of the gathers depends upon the width of the material
and the form of the person. Overhand the edges of the
band together on each side of the gathers. If strings
are desired, they should be cut before sewing the breadths
together. Make a narrow hem at the <\\fl** p f the

134

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

strings, and a broader hem at the lower end. Gather, or
lay small plaits, at the other end of the strings ; insert them
in the ends of the band, and hem the band over them.

CHILD'S BIB.

Take a piece of paper fifteen inches long and eleven
inches wide.

1 . With the long side of the paper horizontally in front
of you, write your name and school at the upper left-hand
corner of the paper.

2. Fold the lengthwise edges together, so that the
name shows.

Nan

chc

x"~

Fold

Fig. 103. Child's Bib.

3. With the folded edge towards you, make a dot at
the right-hand end of the fold ; mark it A (Fig. 103).

4. On the fold, make a dot three inches from A ; mark
it B.

5. At the right-hand end, two and one-fourth inches
above A, make a dot ; mark it C.

6. Draw a light dash-line from B to C.

7. Beyond the dash-line, draw a curved line from B to
C, allowing three-fourths inch curve at the middle. Frase
the dash-line.

POCKETS. 135

8. Cut on the curve.

Making. Make a narrow hem on the sides and on the
straight edges at the top, and an inch hem at the lower
edge. Bind the curve with narrow linen tape, leaving
enough at each end for strings.

POCKETS.

Take a piece of paper fifteen inches long and six inches
wide.

1 . Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in
front of you.

2. Write your name and school at the lower part of the
paper.

3. Make a dot six inches from the lower left-hand
corner ; mark it A (Fig. 104).

4. Make a dot one inch to the left of the upper right-
hand corner ; mark it B,

5. Make a dot four inches exactly below B ; mark it C.

6. Draw from A to C.

7. Draw from B to C.

8. Cut on the outer lines.

Making. When the skirt is made of wash material,
make the pocket of the same ; for woollen material, use
strong silesia or cambric. Place the longest side of the
pattern on a lengthwise fold of the material, and then
cut. When the pocket is made of material different from
the skirt, each bias edge should have a facing, two inches
wide, like the material of the skirt. Baste the facings at
the outside edges, and hem them at the inner edges.

136

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Fold the edges of the pocket together, with the facings on
the outside. Beginning one-fourth of an inch below A
(Fig. 104), make a French seam at the side and across
the lower edge of the pocket. On the bias edge measure
six inches from the seam, and from this point, stitch to C
(Fig. 104). Turn the pocket inside out. In a seam of
the skirt, beginning four and a half inches from the bind-
ing (this distance depends upon the length of the arm),
make a slit six inches long, and fasten each end securely.

'(J

iml

Sc>

\oo

Figs. I 04 and 105. Pockets,

With the facing of the pocket to the right side of the
skirt, place the lower seams exactly together ; baste, and
stitch the pocket in. After overcasting, turn the pocket.
Fold the edges in from B to C and overhand them. Lay

CHILD'S DRAWERS. 137

a small plait at the upper end of the pocket, and tack it
securely to the binding.

Fig. 105 shows another way of cutting a pocket, which
is to be inserted in the opening of the skirt between A
and B.

CHILD'S DRAWERS.

(AGE, 8 YEARS.)

Take a piece of paper twenty-two inches long and four-
teen inches wide.

1 . Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in
front of you.

2. Write your name and school two inches from the
left-hand side of the paper, and eight inches above the
lower edge. Under the name of the school, put in a
column the words, waist measure, twenty-two inches ; leg
measure, seventeen inches ; knee measure, thirteen inches.

3. Mark the upper left-hand corner A, the upper right-
hand corner B, the lower left-hand corner C, and the lower
right-hand corner D (Fig. 106).

4. Make a dot two inches above C ; mark it E.

5. Make a dot two inches above D ; mark it F.

6. Draw a dash-line from E to F.

7. Fold the paper under on the line ; this is for the
hem.

8. Make a dot seven and one-half inches above F ';
mark it G.

9. Make a dot three inches below A ; mark it H.

10. Make a dot four inches to the left of. B ; mark it /.

1 1 . Draw a line from H to /.

138

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

12. Draw a line from G to /.

13. Make a dot eight and .one-half inches to the right
of E ; mark it J.

14. Draw a light dash-line from G toy.

ame

inches

Fig. 106. Child's drawers.

15. Draw an inward-curving line from G toy, allowing
one-inch curve in the middle. Erase the dash-line.

1 6. Without unfolding the hem, cut the pattern on
the outside lines.

NIGHT-DRESS YOKE. 139

Making. For drawers this size, one and one-fourth
yards of material are required. Fold the cloth lengthwise
fourteen inches from one of the edges, and pin the thick-
nesses of cloth together at the selvedge edge. Unfold
the hem, and lay the longest edge of the pattern on the
fold, iv it /i tJie lower edge at tJie raw edge of tJie clotli.
Carefully pin the pattern on, and then cut. Remove the
pattern, lay it on the other end of the cloth in the same
manner, and cut the other leg. For an opening at the
side, cut a slit on each fold seven and one-half inches
deep. Cut two lengthwise bindings, each three inches
wide and twelve inches long. The lower edge is cut by a
thread ; begin there to baste, and, if one side proves a
little longer than the other, pare it off. Sew each leg as
far as G (Fig. 106). Place the right sides of the legs
together, with the seams exactly meeting. Turn one
seam to the right, and the other to the left, and pin.
Beginning at G, sew the upper portions together. Fold
and sew the hem of each leg. At the side openings,
make narrow hems and set in gussets. If preferred, the
openings may be faced of bound. Leaving two inches at
each end, gather each side, and put on the bindings,
allowing more fulness at the middle.

NIGHT-DRESS YOKE.

(BUST MEASURE, 32 INCHES.)

Take a piece of paper seventeen inches long and nine
inches wide.

Place the long side of the paper horizontally in front of
you.

140

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Write your name and school three inches from the left-
hand side of the paper, and three inches above the lower
edge.

Front, I. Draw a vertical dash-line one and one-half
inches from the left-hand side of the paper.

2. Fold the paper under on the line, this is for the
hem.

3. Mark the upper left-hand corner of the paper A,
the upper right-hand corner B, the lower left-hand corner
C, the lower right-hand corner D (Fig. 107).

Fig. 107. Night-dress yoke,

4. Draw a vertical dash-line eight and one-half inches
from the left-hand side of the paper ; mark it /.

5. Make a dot two and one-fourth inches to the right
of A ; mark it E.

6. Make a dot three and three-fourths inches below
A ; mark it F.

7. Make a dot one inch below E ; one-eighth of an
inch to the right of this dot make another dot ; mark the
last dot G.

8. Draw a light dash-line from .Fto G.

NIGHT-DRESS YOKE. 14!

9. Draw an inward-curving line from F to G ; allowing
seven-eighths of an inch curve at the middle.

10. Continue the curved line to E. Erase the dash-
line.

1 1. Make a dot one-half of an inch from line /, and one
and one-fourth inches from the upper edge of the paper ;
mark it H.

12. Draw a line from E to H.

13. Make a dot one-fourth of an inch from line /, and
one and three-fourths inches above the lower edge of the
paper ; mark it /.

14. Draw an inward-curving line, from H to /, (see
shape in Fig. 107).

15. Draw a light dash-line from C to /.

1 6. Draw an outward-curving line, from C to /, allowing
three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the
dash-line.

17. Mark a notch on the curved line, one inch from E.

1 8. Mark a notch on the curved line, one inch from H.
The notches show where the shoulder-seam should be

taken.

Back. i . Make a dot two inches below B ; mark it J.

2. Make a dot one inch below the upper edge of the
paper, and two and one-fourth inches from the right-
hand edge ; mark it K.

3. Draw a light dash-line from y to K.

4. Draw an inward-curving line from J to K t allowing
three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the
dash-line.

5. Make a dot one-fourth of an inch from line /, and
three and one-half inches below the upper edge of the
paper ; mark it L.

142 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

6. Draw a line from K to L.

7. Make a dot, on line /, one-half of an inch above the
lower edge of the paper ; mark it M.

8. Draw a light dash-line from L to M.

9. Draw an inward-curving line from L to M, allowing
seven-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the
dash-line.

10. Draw a line from D to M.

1 1 Mark a notch on the curved line, one inch from L.

12. Mark a notch on the curved line, one inch from K.

13. Without unfolding the hem at the front, cut the
patterns on the outside lines, making the notches small.

CHILD'S SACK TIER

(AGE, 2 YEARS.)

Take a piece of paper one yard long and twelve inches
wide.

Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in front
of you. Mark the upper left-hand corner A t the upper
right-hand corner B, the lower left-hand corner C, the
lower right-hand corner D (Fig. 108).

Front, i . Make a dot twenty-one and one-half inches
above C\ mark it E.

2. Make a dot two inches above E ; one and one-half
inches to the right of this dot and parallel with it, make
another dot ; mark it F.

3. Draw a light dash-line from E to F.

4. Draw an inward-curving line from E to F, allowing
three-fourths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the
dash-line.

CHILD S SACK TIER.

143

Fig. 108. Child's sack tier.

144 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

5 . Make a dot three and one-half inches to the right of
Fand parallel with F\ one inch exactly below this dot
make another dot ; mark it G.

6. Draw a line from Fto G.

7. Make a dot three inches exactly below G ; one-half
of an inch to the left of this dot make another dot ;
mark it H.

8. Draw a light dash-line from G to H.

9. Draw an inward-curving line from G to H, allowing
three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the
dash-line.

10. Make a dot two inches to the right of H, and par-
allel with H ; mark it /.

1 1 . Draw an inward-curving line from H to I (see
shape in Fig. 108).

12. Make a dot two inches above D ; mark \\.J.

13. Draw a line from /to_/.

14. Draw a light dash-line from CtoJ.

15. Draw an outward-curving line from C toy, allowing
one-half of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the dash-
line.

Sleeve. i . Make a dot ten and one-half inches below
A ; one inch to the right of this dot and para 1 lei with it,
make another dot ; mark the last dot K.

2. Make a dot three inches below A ; mark it L.

3. Draw a line from K to L.

4. Make a dot one inch above L ; four inches to the
right of this dot and parallel with it, make another dot ;
mark it M.

5. Draw a light dash-line from L to M.

6. Draw an inward-curving line from L to M, allowing
three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the
dash-line.

CHILD S SACK TIER. 145

7. Make a dot five inches to the right of M and par-
allel with M\ mark it N.

8. Draw a light dash-line from M to N.

9. Draw an outward-curving line from M to N, allowing
one and one-fourth inch curve at the middle. Erase
the dash-line.

10. Mark a notch at the middle of this curve.

1 1 . Make a dot two and one-half inches to the right of
A 7 " and parallel with N] one and one-fourth inches
exactly below this dot make another dot ; mark it O.

12. Draw a slightly inward-curving line from N to O.

13. Make a dot nine and one-half inches to the right
of K, and parallel with K\ mark it P.'

14. Draw a line from O to P.

1 5. Draw a line from K to P.

Take a piece of paper one yard long and eleven inches
wide.

Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in front
of you. Mark the lower left-hand corner A ; mark the
lower right-hand corner B.

Back. i . Make a dot one inch above A ; mark it C.

2. Draw a light dash-line from B to C,

3. Draw an outward-curving line from B to C, allowing
one-fourth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the
dash-line.

4. Make a dot eighteen inches exactly above C ; three
and one-half inches to the right of this dot, and parallel
with it, make another dot ; mark it D.

5. Draw a line from C to D.

6. Make a dot one inch to the right of D and parallel

146 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

with D ; two and one-half inches exactly above this dot
make another dot ; mark it E.

7. Draw an inward-curving line from D to E (see shape
in Fig. 1 08).

8. Make a dot three inches to the right of E, and
parallel with E ; one and one-half inches exactly above
this dot, make another dot ; mark it F.

9. Draw a line from E to F.

10. Make a dot one inch exactly below F\ two inches
to the right of this dot, and parallel with it, make another
dot ; mark it G.

1 1 . Draw a light dash-line from F to G.

12. Draw an inward-curving line from Fto G, allowing
three-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the
dash-line.

13. Make a dot one and one-half inches to the right of
G ; one-fourth of an inch above this dot make another
dot ; mark it H.

14. Continue the curved line from G to H.

Cuff. i . Make a dot four inches above H ; mark it /.

2. Make a dot six and one-half inches to the left of /
and parallel with / ; mark it J.

3. Draw a line from / to J.

4. Make a dot four inches exactly above _/; mark it K.

5 . Draw a line from J to K.

6. Make a dot four inches above 7; mark it L.

7. Draw a line from K to L.

Write your name and school at the lower part of each
pattern.

Cut each pattern out, on the heavy lines.

Making. Lay the longest side of the front pattern on
a lengthwise fold of the cloth, and cut. Fold the sel-

CHILD S SACK TIER. 147

vedges of the cloth together, lay the longest side of the
back pattern on the selvedge edge, and cut the two backs
at once. With the right sides of the cloth folded
together, lay the lower edge of the sleeve pattern on a
woof thread of the cloth, and cut two sleeves at once.
Lay the narrow edge of the cuff pattern on a woof thread
of the cloth, and cut one cuff ; cut the other cuff in a
similar manner. Baste an inch and a half hem at each
side of the opening in the back ; baste the side and
shoulder-seams together, allowing half-an-inch seam. Try
the tier on, make any alterations necessary, and then
sew the seams. Make an inch hem at the lower edge.
Sew each sleeve together, making a narrow seam. Gather
the upper edge of each sleeve, leaving a space of two
inches each side of the seam. Gather the lower edge of
each sleeve, leaving a space of an inch and a half each
side of the seam. Sew the narrow edges of each cuff
together. Holding the right sides together stitch the
cuffs to the sleeves. Fold the cuffs over, and hem on the
wrong side at the stitching. Holding the sleeve towards
you, with the upper part of the sleeve marked M (Fig.
1 08) towards the front, and with the notch at the shoulder-
seam, sew the sleeve in. Bind or face the neck. Make
the button-holes, and put on the buttons. If strings are
desired make them each three inches wide and three-
fourths of a yard long ; laying a plait, insert the strings
into the side-seams five inches below the arm-scye.

148 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

GORED SKIRT.

To make a gored skirt one yard long, having a four
inch hem, three and one-third yards of material, one yard
wide are required. 1 Tear off three breadths, each forty
inches long.

Front-breadth. i . Fold the lengthwise edges of one
of the breadths together.

2. Hold the folded edge towards you.

3. Make a dot at the right-hand side, ten and one-half
inches above the folded edge; mark it A.

4. Make a dot four inches to the left of A and parallel
with A ; mark it B. This is for the hem.

5. Make a dot at the left-hand side, eight and one--
half inches above the folded edge; mark it C.

6. Make a dot on the folded edge, one-half of an inch
from the left-hand end; mark it D.

7. Cut straight from A to B.

8. Fold the cloth from B to C, and cut on the fold.

9. Cut from C to D, slightly curving inward.
Side-breadths. I. Fold the lengthwise edges of an-
other breadth together.

2. Hold the selvedges towards you.

3. Make a dot at the right-hand side, sixteen and one-
half inches from the selvedges; mark it A.

4. Make a dot four inches to the left of A, and parallel
with A\ mark it B.

5. Make a dot at the left-hand side, thirteen and one-
half inches from the selvedges; mark it C.

6. Cut straight from A to B.

1 This may be cut from paper if desired.

DRAWERS. 149

7. Fold the cloth from B to C, and cut on the fold.

Back-breadth. Cut this breadth thirty (or more) inches
wide.

Cut the band three and one-half inches wide, and one
inch longer (to allow for lapping and making) than the
waist measure.

Making. In a gored skirt, the bias edges should be
towards the back. Place the straight edges of the side-
breadths to the front-breadth, and pin them together at
the ends and in the middle. In sewing the seams, hold
the bias edge towards you, fulling it a little if necessary;
or the bias edge can be held smoothly, afterwards cutting
off the extra length at the lower edge. Sew the back-
breadth to the side-breadths in a similar manner. Make
a four inch hem at the lower edge, laying a small plait
at each seam for the fulness. In the middle of the back-
breadth make a placket ten inches in length. Put the
upper edge into the band, allowing more fullness at the
back than in the front.

DRAWERS.
(AoE, 12 YEARS AND UPWARD.)

1. Place the narrow side of a sheet of drafting-paper
horizontally in front of you.

2. Write your name and school five inches from the
left-hand side of the paper and five inches above the lower
edge. Under the name of the school, put in a column the
words, waist measure, leg measure and knee measure.

3. Take the waist measure tightly, and record it.

I5O SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

4. Take the leg measure from the side of the waist to
the side of the knee, and record it.

5. Take the measure around the knee, and record it.

6. Make a dot one inch from the left-hand side of the
paper, and two inches above the lower edge; mark it A
(Fig. 109).

7. From dot A draw an oblong (having the longest side
vertical) four inches longer than the leg measure, and four
inches wider than half the waist measure.

8. Mark the perpendicular line at left /; the upper
horizontal line 2\ the perpendicular line at right J>; the
lower horizontal line 4.

9. Make a dot on line /, four inches below the junction
of lines / and 2\ mark it B.

10. Find half the waist measure, and make a dot on
line 2 this distance from the junction of lines / and 2\
mark it C.

1 1. Make a dot one inch to the left of C\ mark it D.

12. Make a dot two inches exactly below D\ mark it E.

13. Draw a line from B to C; mark it 5.

14. Draw a line from B to E\ mark it 6.

i 5. Find half the leg measure, and make a dot on line J
this distance from the junction of lines J and </; mark it F.
^16. Make a dot on line 4, from A, two inches more
than half the knee measure; mark it G.

17. Draw a light dash-line from C to F.

1 8. Draw an outward-curving line from C to F, allow-
ing one-inch curve at the middle; mark it 7. Erase the
dash-line.

19. Draw a light dash-line from to F.

20. Draw an inward-curving line from E to F, allowing
half-an-inch curve at the middle; mark it 8. Erase the
dash-line.

DRAWERS.

-1-

Nam

Schobl

Waist

Knee

Fig. 109. Drawers,

152 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

2 1 . Draw a light dash-line from F to G.

22. Draw an inward-curving line from F to G, allowing
a two inch curve at the middle; mark it p. Erase the
dash-line.

23. Fold the paper under on line 4, for the hem.

24. Without unfolding the hem, cut the pattern on the
outside lines. Trace lines 6 and 8.

Making. Fold the cloth' lengthwise, the width of the
pattern from one of the edges, and pin the thicknesses
of cloth together. Unfold the hem, and lay the longest
side of the pattern on the fold, with the lower edge at
the raw edge of the cloth. Pin the pattern on, and trace
lines 6 and 8. Cut both thicknesses of cloth at the edges
of the pattern, and remove the pattern ; then cut the upper
fold of cloth on the traced lines, this is for the front. Cut
the other leg by laying the leg already cut on the cloth,
right sides together, and the lower edge on a woof thread
of the cloth. Cut a binding lengthwise of the cloth,
having it three inches wide and the length of the waist
measure, allowing one inch for lapping at each opening.
They may be made to open in the back or at the side.
When tucks are to be made, allowance must be made
for them before cutting the cloth. If open drawers are
desired, face the upper portions of the legs; otherwise
make them according to the directions on page 139. To
avoid fulness at the waist, the gathers can be put into
a yoke.

CHILD S WAIST. 153

CHILD'S WAIST (opening in the back).
(AGE, 3 TO 10 YEARS.)

Take a piece of paper sixteen inches long and twenty
inches wide.

1. Place the long side of the paper horizontally in
front of you.

2. Write your name and school three inches from the
left-hand side of the paper, and eight inches above the
lower edge. Under the name of the school, put in a
a column the words, waist measure, bust measure, length
from tape to back of neck, length from tape to waist,
length of shoulder.

3. Take the waist measure, and record it.

4. Take the bust measure by putting the tape-measure
around the body close under the arms; pin the ends to-
gether at the middle of .the chest. Record this measure,
leaving the tape still in position.

5. Measure from tape to the bone in the back of the
neck, and record it.

6. Measure from tape to waist, and record it.

7. Measure the length of shoulder, and record it.

8. Draw a horizontal dash-line nine inches above the
lower edge of the paper; mark it / (Fig. 1 10).

9,, Draw a vertical line two inches from the left-hand
edge of the paper ; mark it 2.

10. Draw a vertical dash-line one inch to the right
of line 2\ mark it J. This allows for the hem.

1 1 . Find one-half of the bust measure, and at this
distance from line J draw a vertical line; mark it 4.

12. Bisect the distance between lines J and^, and half-

154

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

an-inch to the left of the middle draw a vertical dash-line;
mark it 5.

13. Draw a horizontal dash-line from line J to line ^,
as many inches above line /, as is the measure " from tape
to neck"; mark it 6.

14. Draw a horizontal dash-line from line J to line </,
as far below line /, as the measure "from tape to waist";
mark it 7.

Fig. I 10. Child's waist.

15. Draw a horizontal line two inches below line 7;
mark it 8.

BACK.

Neck. i . Make a clot one and one-half inches to the
right of line J, and one-fourth of an inch above line 6\
mark it A.

CHILD S WAIST. I 55

2. Make a dot at the junction of lines J and 6; mark
it B.

3. Draw a slightly curved line from A to B (see Fig.
no).

Shoulder. i . Draw a horizontal dash-line from line J
to line 5, one and one-half inches below line 6; mark it <?.

2. Place the end of the ruler on A, and, bringing the
shoulder measurement to meet line p, make a dot; mark
it C.

3. Draw a straight line from A to C.

Arm-scye. I . Make a dot half-an-inch below line /,
on line 5; mark it D.

2. Draw a curved line from C to D (see Fig. 1 10).

FRONT.

Neck. i . Make a dot two and one-fourth inches to
the left of line ^, and one inch above line 6\ mark it E.

2. On line ^ make a dot one and one-half inches below
line 6\ mark it F.

3. Draw a curved line from to F (see Fig. 1 10).
Shoulder. i . Place the end of the ruler on E, and,

bringing the shoulder measurement to meet line 6, make
a dot; mark it G.

2. Draw a straight line from E to G.

Arm-scye. To complete the arm-scye, draw a curved
line from G to D (see shape in Fig. 1 10).

Waist. i . If the waist measure is less than the bust
measure, divide their difference by two, and make a dot
this distance on line 7 at each side of line 5 ; mark
them H and /.

2. Draw a straight line from D to //, and another from
Dto L

156 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

3. Make a dot at the junction of lines 5 and S ; mark

it/.

4. Draw a straight line from H to J, and another from
/to/.

If the waist measure is greater than the bust measure,
slant these lines outward instead of inward, this will
necessitate a seam.

Fold the paper under on line J, and cut the pattern on
the heavy outside lines.

HINTS FOR A PLAIN BASQUE.

There are over four hundred different systems of dress-
drafting used in the United States, and any one of these
to be of use requires constant practice.

Patterns are now easily obtained, and by using judg-
ment and following the given directions carefully, will be
found of great assistance. Patterns allowing for seams
are easier to cut from, than those which do not.

The trimmings needed for a plain basque are linings,
sewing silk, button-hole twist, basting cotton, buttons or
hooks and eyes, and whale-bones.

The main parts of a plain basque pattern are front,
back, side-back, under-arm, collar, upper-sleeve, and under-
sleeve.

The front pattern can be distinguished from the back
pattern by the shape of the neck and arm-scye, the neck
of the front being cut lower, and the arm-scye being cut
larger and having more of a curve. The upper-sleeve
portion is wider than the under-sleeve portion, in order to
bring the seams more under the arms.

HINTS FOR A PLAIN BASQUE. 157

The edge of the hem of the opening should be laid on
the selvedge, to avoid making two folds in the hem.

Great care must be taken to baste the seams of a
basque according to the marks ; few beginners realize
that the difference of an eighth of an inch in the width
of the seven seams, around the waist, will amount to one
and three-fourths inches. Even basting stitches should
be used. After the basque is basted, try it on. Altera-
tions for tightening or loosening the basque, around the
waist, should be made at the under-arm seams.

After the seams are sewed, take out the bastings ; pare
the seams, making notches at the waist-line, and two
inches above the waist-line, to allow for the curving of
the dress. The under-arm seams may be left wider than
the others, that the basque may be let out.

Press the seams open. Overcast the seams closely, or
bind them with a narrow silk binding obtainable for this
purpose.

Whale-bone casings can be bought, or a bias strip of
silesia can be sewed on to the seams, fulling it a little.
Soak the whale-bones in hot water for an hour, before
using, which will render them soft and pliable enough to
sew through. They should be firmly fastened an inch
above and an inch below the waist-line.

To finish the lower edge of the basque, baste a bias
strip of plain lining muslin, two inches wide, on the edge
of the basque ; then fold the edges over half-an-inch, and
catch them to the lining, fastening securely at the seams.
Put on a facing of a thin material cut on the bias.

Fig. Ml. Doll's patterns.

DOLL'S PATTERNS. 159

DOLL'S PATTERNS.

On page 158, patterns are given for doll's garments.
By using inch squared paper, and drawing the patterns in
the same proportion, as they are given in the one-fourth
inch squares, patterns will be obtained for a doll ten
inches long.

TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT.

161

ffi

MEtEtEtEeSErJftffl
^ggffiP

Fig. 112, Demonstration Frame.

TEACHING THE LESSONS.

Every pupil should be thoroughly instructed in the
meaning of general phrases ; as, "work towards you,"
"from you," "from right to left," "threads of the cloth,"
etc. When dimensions are given, each pupil should be
able to show on the cloth the different distances required;
the depth of the little finger-nail may be referred to,
when a fourth of an inch is needed.

Drills are necessary in teaching beginners the motions
required in sewing, and should be given before beginning
a new stitch. They interest the children, and promote
dexterity and skillfulness. Children are apt to close their
fingers when learning to sew, this may be obviated by the
needle drill. The monotony of this may be made pleasant
by calling it "shooting the needle," and allowing the chil-
dren to aim the needle towards their neighbors. Drills
for creasing hems and folding tucks and plaits may be
practised on paper. The pupils who are proficient may be
allowed to proceed with their work, while the others stand
and practise the drill.

Simultaneous teaching. In the instruction of classes,
especially if they are large, good results can be obtained
by simultaneous teaching. Class work is more effectual
than individual work ; the lesson being as easily dictated
to a class of fifty, as to a single pupil.

Demonstration lessons are a great help in simultaneous
teaching. On page 162 is an illustration of a frame used
in European countries ; smaller frames, that fasten on to
the desk, are also used. The cords represent the threads

164 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

of the cloth, and a large bone needle is used. In this
country the frame has not proved very satisfactory. In
its place, a piece of Java or coarse canvas, coarse heavy
scrim, or linen crash may be hung over a wire on the wall
or blackboard, or held in the hands. One advantage of the
use of cloth is that it can be easily taken to any part of
the room.

The stitch should be worked on the cloth in plain view
of all the pupils. To give the exact position of the work,
as it is held by the pupil, let the teacher stand with her
back towards the pupils, and hold her hands at one side
or above her head. A large needle and coarse, bright-
colored yarn or twine should be used, so that the stitch
can be easily seen ; in a large room this may be accom-
plished by repeating the demonstration on the opposite
side of the room.

When approaching a new stitch, it is wise to spend a
short time for several preceding lessons in simply showing
how the stitch is taken.

The lesson may be divided into five parts : first, a talk
on the subject matter, for instance, in a lesson on button-
holes, describe the button-hole, its use, size, position, etc.,
also show garments having the required stitrh; second,
a demonstration lesson on the cloth, making the stitches
very large and describing each motion ; third, an exam-
ination of the pupils concerning the talk and demon-
stration ; fourth, the demonstration repeated, having the
pupils dictate the motions and the stitch ; fifth, all the
pupils make the stitch on their trial-pieces, at the same
time that it is again being demonstrated on the cloth.
The next stitches may be made by following a pupil's
dictation, the teacher showing how to move the cloth as

TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 165

the work progresses. Thus, by close attention and follow-
ing the motions, the pupils learn the stitch; individual
help will necessarily have to be given to the dull pupils.

These lessons require time and patience, but the results
fully compensate. Teachers are apt to expect too much,
and although it may seem as if little had been accomplished
in the lesson hour, do not be discouraged, for, if the class
has learned a little thoroughly, much has been gained.
The pupil requires much practice on the simple stitches,
but after the stitches are thoroughly learnt, rapid progress
may be expected. A few fine garments made by the
most capable pupils do* not compensate for poor execu-
tion by the remainder of the class.

A teacher's success depends much on the first impres-
sions given to her pupils. The first lesson should be a
simple talk between teacher and pupils, in which the con-
fidence of the pupils should be gained. This may be
done by questioning them on the advantages and pleas-
ures of learning to sew, outlining their course, pointing
out the results, describing the articles required, etc. Let
the first lesson be simply a preparation for a pleasant
course.

The second lesson should be on the general directions,
with explanations and oral instruction. At the close of
each lesson the pupils should be able to answer the printed
questions. It is a good plan to review the lessons at
various times, by re-asking the questions.

The tJiird and perhaps fourtJi lesson should be devoted
to needles and thread, so that the pupils may become
perfectly familiar with them, their size, location, and use.

The tying of the knot should be taught carefully, and
each pupil should understand its construction, as many

1 66 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

think a wad of thread is a knot. To accomplish this,
let each pupil pass before the teacher with the thread
partially drawn up, as in Fig. i, and complete it under
her oversight. This teaches also the proper size for the
knot at the end of the thread. The directions for making
the knot are given for the left hand, but children will
often make it more readily with the right hand. Some
teachers never allow the use of knots, except when abso-
lutely necessary, while others consider it proper to use
them, when they can be concealed. The fastening of the
thread securely, in both beginning and ending, should be
emphasized.

Circumstances and the teacher's judgment will decide
the exact order in which the stitches should be taught,
and which will vary according to the pupils' previous in-
struction in the kindergarten and primary schools. Some
teachers prefer to begin with basting, others with run-
ning, but stitching, although harder, drills the pupils more
in exactness.

Trial-piece. The pupils, when learning, should always
have a sample of the required stitch. A convenient trial-
piece for the lower classes is prepared, by basting together
the edges of two strips of cloth, one, eighteen inches by
fourteen inches, the other, eighteen inches by four inches.
A sample of stitching, two inches long, is placed under
the basting, above which is a sample of overcasting. A
narrow hem is basted on the opposite side of the broad
piece, with a sample of hemming, also a sample of coarse
button-hole stitch on the fold of the hem at the opposite
corner; a basted seam for overhanding is two inches from
the hem, with a sample of overhanding. On the narrow
piece of cloth is a sample of running. Different colored
thread should be used for each stitch.

TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 167

A basting lesson may be given below the row of bast-
ing, and used for practice in stitching, followed by lessons
in gathering, half-backstitching, etc. The trial-pieces may
be prepared by the pupils of the higher grades. It is
advisable to have different shaped trial-pieces for different
grades, the older classes preparing their own pieces.
The trial-pieces show the pupils' ability and proficiency.

How to keep the pupils busy. If for any cause the
pupils cannot sew on a garment or their regular work,
they should work on their trial-pieces. The pupils 'will
endeavor to do their best, if the work is to be kept for
exhibition.

Thread. On the trial-piece, different colored threads
may represent degrees of advancement, or a different
color may be used for each month's work, by which it
may be easily perceived how much has been accomplished
in the time. The joining of the thread in the different
stitches should be shown by using different colors.

Stitches. The check of gingham is of assistance to the
pupils when learning, as they may be instructed to make
a definite number of stitches in each check. The warp
and woof of cloth may be distinguished by stretching the
edges, that which stretches the least being the warp.
Java canvas is excellent where threads are to be counted or
drawn. It is better to teach creasing on a lengthwise
strip of cloth, as it will not stretch. When the cloth has
to be folded crosswise or on the bias, plaiting and pinch-
ing should be used. Basting may be easily taught on
plaided or striped materials. In basting, where there will
be no strain, the thread may be fastened by taking a few
stitches one above the other; thus the thread can be easily
picked out. In turning a narrow hem, explain that the first

1 68 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

fold must not be quite as deep as the second fold, in order
that it may lie smoothly.

Overcasting is difficult for children to do nicely, and
may be taught on a folded edge. . The proportions in
the directions for overcasting are given in eighths and
quarters of an inch, as they are convenient for the pupils
to follow. Overcasting is often done from left to right.
In running and gathering advanced pupils may be taught
to keep the needle in the cloth until the seam is finished,
pushing the gathers off the eye of the needle as the work
proceeds. Explain to the pupils the difference in the use
of gathering and plaiting, and that plaiting is used when
it is desirable for the fulness to lie flat. Also show,
by very coarse gathering, why the longest stitches are on
the right side. The strips prepared in the lessons on
gathering may be used for those on bindings.

In teaching the button-hole stitcJi on a folded edge, to
young pupils, the following suggestions may be helpful :
have the pupils point in the direction towards which they
are to work; have them hold up their left hand, then their
left forefinger ; bring the folded edge of the cloth across
the back of the fingers, allowing the tips to show ; and
hold the end of the fold between the left thumb and
forefinger. After the stitch has been learned, it may be
practised on a circle of flannel with bright-colored thread
or twist. A lesson may be given on working an nncnt
button-hole, colored thread representing the sides of the
slit; this is particularly helpful in teaching the working
of the ends. When barring a button-hole, after overcast-
ing, a short stitch taken at the middle of each side will
keep the barring in position.

Whipping is one of the hardest class lessons ;^ the dif-

TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 169

ference between rolling and folding should be demonstra-
ted on large pieces of paper. Darning may be easily
taught on canvas. A fine quality of flannel is a good
material for cloth darning, as it is soft and yielding, and
does not ravel. In patching, as it is sometimes difficult
for the pupils to cut the hole in the garment by a thread,
they may mark around a square cardboard pattern with a
pencil, and, after cutting, ravel the edges until they are
even. Care must be taken to place the edges of the card-
board parallel to the threads of the cloth. Marking cloth
with a lead-pencil should not be encouraged, as the marks
are hard to wash out ; when it is necessary to use a pencil,
a blue one is preferable. After teaching fcatJicr-stitching
on canvas, a striped material will serve as a guide for the
pupil. On canvas-work, crochet cord, apothecary twine,
or common twine split may be used instead of worsted.
In teaching marking, it is a good plan to have the pupils
draw the letters first.

Drafting and cutting may be given by demonstration
lessons. The pupils should not draft or cut a dress-waist
until they have had experience on underclothing or
simpler patterns.

The garment should be shown the pupils and its pro-
portions explained before drafting, and instruction given
as to the amount of cloth required, the width of the
material, etc. Instruction should also be given on choos-
ing materials and patterns suitable to the form of the
person, and the use of the garment. For instance, a tall
person should not wear stripes or plaits, nor a short per-
son large plaids or many ruffles. Fulness is becoming to
a thin form, and dark colors apparently decrease the size
of a fleshy person.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Where measurements are given, as in the child's
drawers, call a pupil of appropriate size forward, and take
the measures before the school.

Fig. 113. Misses' underwaist.

Fig. 1 1 3 represents a Misses' underwaist, bust measure
thirty-two inches. By re-drawing in one-inch squares the
exact size (not allowing for seams) will be obtained, and
may be used as a demonstration lesson to show the differ-
ent parts of a waist, their size, shape, and proportion,

TEACHERS SUPPLEMENT. I /I

also to show how the parts should join ; notches may be
made at the waist-line or at the top as preferred.

Squared paper is of great assistance in drafting; a
miniature pattern may be drawn by using fourth-of-an-
inch squares as inch 'squares, thus giving the pupils the
proportions of the garment. Doll's patterns are con-
venient, as they take up less room, yet give the pupils
the shape and proportions of the garment, and show
how the seams should be placed together. One of the
first lessons in cutting may be a doll's two-breadth apron,
cut from old exercise paper; the paper may also be used
for the bib.

The pupils should be allowed to take home the patterns
they draft, as they are appreciated by the parents.

Many teachers think that dress drafting should be
taught in the last part of the High School course or
in the Normal School. If younger pupils are taught a
system of drafting, they often have not sufficient judg-
ment to apply the knowledge gained

COURSE OF SEWING.

The following course of sewing, drafting and cutting
has been found practical in a grammar school course of
six years, but it may be re-arranged and adapted to a
shorter course.

FIRST YEAR.

Position of the pupils while sewing.

Method of threading needle, making a knot, and using
the thimble.

Drills.

Basting.

Coarse button-hole stitch on a folded edge of cloth.

Overcasting.

Running.

Stitching.

Turning, basting and hemming one-fourth of an inch
hems.

Practice in cutting and putting together a paper or
cloth sample of a two-breadth apron.

Instruction on the use of needles, thread, thimbles and
cloth.

Examination.

Suitable articles to make. Bags, towels, sewing aprons,
drawers and two-breadth aprons.

SECOND YEAR.
Review.

Fine button-hole stitch on a folded edge of cloth.
French hem on damask.
Gathering, and placing of gathers.
Half-backstitching.

TEACHERS SUPPLEMENT. 173

Overhanding.

Putting on bands by stitching and hemming.

Running and a backstitch.

Turning, basting and hemming one-inch hems.

Practice in drafting and cutting pockets and child's bib.

Instruction on the manufacture of needles, thimbles
and emery.

Examination.

Suitable articles to make. Skirts, drawers, aprons,
doll's clothes, sheets, pillow-cases and table-linen.

THIRD YEAR.

Review.

Blanket-stitch.

Button-holes in cotton cloth.

Buttons.

Catch-stitch.

Darning a straightway tear or cut in cotton cloth.

Double gathering.

French seam.

Lace sewed on.

Loops.

Plackets.

Practice in weaving.

Wide hems.

Practice in drafting and cutting a night-dress yoke and
child's drawers.

Instruction on the manufacture of scissors, pins, buttons,
hooks and eyes.

Examination.

Suitable articles to make. - - Dresses, night-dresses,
flannel skirts, etc.

1/4 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

FOURTH YEAR.
Review.

Bias piecing.

Button-holes in woollen cloth.

Chain-stitch.

Darning a bias and a corner-tear.

Darning on s ockinet.

Double gathering overhanded to a band.

Facings.

Gussets.

Hooks and eyes.

Loops of tape.

Outline-stitch.

Patching on cotton cloth.

Plaiting.

Scalloped edge.

Shirring.

Straightway fell.

Practice in drafting and cutting a gored skirt and
child's tier.

Instruction on the growth and manufacture of thread,
cotton and wool.

Examination.

FIFTH YEAR.
Review.
Bias-fell.
Corners mitred.

Darning tear in woollen cloth with silk, ravellings or hair.
Edgings sewed on and corners turned.
Embroidery knots.
Eyelet-holes.

TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 175

Feather-stitch.

Gathers set into a band.

Grafting.

Hem-stitch.

Honey-combing.

Marking.

Patching on calico, gingham and woollen cloth.

Piping.

Ruffles faced on.

Slip or blind-stitch.

Stocking-web stitch.

Tucking.

Whipping.

Practice in drafting and cutting drawers and child's
waist.

Instruction on the growth and manufacture of silk and
linen.

Examination.

SIXTH YEAR.
Review.

Drafting, cutting and making of garments, also cutting
from patterns.
Examination.

PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS.

Although teachers may have different methods in
regard to details ; those presented in the lessons have
been found to be practical for service, and easily acquired
by the pupils.

In beginning with a class of young pupils, close
attention should be given to the details, or the bright,
intelligent pupil alone will comprehend. In an average
class, one-fourth are quick to learn, one-half are of
average ability, and the remaining fourth may be called
dull. A teacher should not judge the proficiency of the
class by either extreme. The best work does not always
represent the greatest effort. Poor work may be
excusable in some cases, especially from pupils who have
come from homes of ignorance and poverty.

The spirit of the pupils depend greatly upon the
disposition of the teacher. A smiling; face will often
accomplish more than severe words. Commendation for
worthy efforts helps the pupils wonderfully, and care
should be taken not to discourage the dull pupils.

Experience teaches that a child, when working on a real
object of use, not only does better work, but gets more
good from it, through the arousing of interest and the
developing of self-respect, than when simply practising
stitches. The principle of working with a definite aim is
important, though trial-pieces are necessary at first, for a
child should not be allowed to spoil a garment, or think
that poor sewing will do if only the garment can be put
together. An incentive to the child to do her best on

TEACHERS SUPPLEMENT.

the trial-piece, is the knowledge that she may apply the
acquired skill to some useful article. The child should
not be discouraged by being required to practise longer
than is necessary. After she has done as well as she is
able, allow her to bring from home an unmade garment
requiring the necessary stitches. The pupils may be
stimulated in stitching, by the promise that they may
outline their names or some design on cloth. As a
reward for good work, the pupils may be allowed to
dress dolls, or have their work mounted and labelled for
exhibition. Pupils will often learn readily from a com-
panion, and those who first learn the stitches may be
permitted to aid the others, and also to show their work,
if done nicely, to the class.

Dark days. Teachers should be careful that the pupils
do not strain their eyes by working in a poor light. On
dark days, talks, which are of great assistance and benefit
may be given on relevant subjects, as needles, thread,
cotton, wool, silk and linen, their manufacture and use
(see page 222), and on the making of garments. A dark
day may also be employed in teaching the pupils to make
knots, including square and bow-knots.

A shopping expedition will greatly interest the pupils,
for instance : "What kind of a store shall we visit to
purchase our sewing materials ? " " What shall we buy ? "
" How much material shall we get for a bag, apron or
skirt ? " " What kind of material ? " " Why ? " " Are we
ready to go home?" " O, no, we must have other
things." Mention them ; tell why different numbers of
needles are needed for different materials, etc. Question
on the difference in the quality of materials, and explain
that a good quality is generally cheaper in the end.

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Fancy-work. -- In the public schools embroidery or
fancy-work is not generally encouraged ; but a little
attention given to it before Christmas is greatly enjoyed
by the children. They may be allowed to bring the

presents they are pre-
paring, or class lessons
may be given on the
making of needle-books,

Fig. I 14. Scalloped pin-balls, scissors and
' embroidered edge. ,,. ,, T

thimble cases, etc. Les-
sons on tissue paper work afford much pleasure, and here
is an opportunity for a practical lesson on the combination
of colors. Simple embroidery may be taught. Fig. 114
represents a scalloped embroidered edge, which is easily
acquired by a pupil who has practised the blanket-stitch.

Scissors. It is not advisable for young pupils to have
scissors in their bags, as they lack judgment in their use.
Class scissors should be kept in a strong box lined with
felt or velvet. Pupils may practise cutting on paper to
advantage, so as to become accustomed to the use of
scissors. When many button-holes of the same length
are to be cut, the annoyance caused by the ends of the
scissors catching in the cloth, or by the screw loosening,
may be prevented by soldering the screw at the required
length.

Dropping articles. To prevent the disturbance caused
by dropping articles, have the pupils keep their spools,
emery, etc., in their bags during the sewing lesson.

Sinistrous pupils. - The broadening of the popular
mind begins to change many formerly fixed opinions. One
of these is in regard to the left hand. Formerly a sinistrous
person was considered an oddity. Now, instead of teach-

TEACHER S SUPPLEMENT.

179

Fig.

15. Button-hole worked
with the left hand.

ing the exclusive use of the
right hand, left-handed pupils
are taught the use of both,
as an ambidextrous person
has many advantages over a
person confined to the use of
one hand. Fig. 1 1 5 repre-
sents the needle and thread
in position for working a but-
ton-hole with the left hand.

Sampler. - To make a
sampler similar to Fig. 1 16, a
piece of cotton cloth twenty-
four inches long and eighteen
inches wide is required.

Make a narrow hem at the sides. At the middle of
the lower edge cut in seven or eight inches, hem the
opening, and set-in a gusset.

At the right-hand lower edge hem-stitch an inch hem ;
above make two tucks one-fourth of an inch deep, the
first tuck sewed with a running stitch, the second tuck
with a running and a backstitch ; then make a narrow
straightway fell. Sew a whipped, cambric ruffle, trimmed
with Hamburg edging, to the lower edge of the hem.

Tear off one inch from the left-hand lower edge, and
face on a cambric ruffle, having a lace edge ; hemstitch
the facing. Above make two tucks one-fourth of an inch
deep, the first tuck sewed by stitching, the second tuck
by half-backstitching ; then make a narrow French seam.
Fasten the opening with a hook and eye, placed at the
middle of the edges of the hems ; back of the eye place a
loop for a fastening.

Fig. I 16. Sampler.

1 80

TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 181

Above the fell and French seam darn two straightway-
tears, one with vertical, and one with slanting stitches ;
also a bias-tear and a corner-tear. Above the darns sew a
patch by hemming, and one by overhanding, overcasting
the edges of the latter. Chain-stitch a vine on the lower
inch hem, and outline a similar vine on the opposite side.
Decorate the vines with embroidery knots.

At the middle of the upper edge make a placket four
inches deep. On one of the edges put on a binding by
setting-in or by overhanding, making a row of double
gathering. Plait the opposite side, and put on a binding
by stitching and hemming. Fasten the placket with a
four-holed button and a button-hole. Make an eyelet-hole
at one of the outer ends of the bindings, and sew a boot-
button at the opposite end. Above the four-holed button
a loop of tape may be sewed.

A flannel patch, with the edges blanket-stitched, and
samples of stockinet darning may be tacked on to the
sampler. The name may be worked from the alphabets
on a piece of scrim, the edges finished by feather-stitch-
ing, and then tacked to the sampler.

If desired, the different methods of basting may be
shown on the tucks.

Blackboard. A blackboard should be divided by light-
colored lines, into inch squares, using a different color for
every ninth or twelfth line. A permanent blackboard may
be made by marking out the squares with paint. If there
is a lack of blackboard room for this, mounted blackboard-
cloth may be prepared, and hung on the wall or placed on an
easel. The use of the blackboard is of great assistance in
impressing upon the pupils the size and form of the
stitches, and in teaching the dimensions in cutting.

182

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Drawing lessons should be given in connection with
sewing ; they serve not only as a means for teaching the
stitches, but also assist in training the eye and the hand.

A free-hand diagram, drawn on the blackboard by the
teacher, in connection with the demonstration lesson, will

Fig. I 17. Stitching.

excite the interest and gain the attention of the pupils.
The name of the lesson should be plainly written on the
blackboard. The copying of the diagram by the pupils

Fig. 118. Hemming.

'will be found very effectual in teaching the size, regu-
larity and proportion of the stitches. After a little prac-
tice and help the pupils will be able to draw more difficult
stitches, and give simple sketches of their work ; thereby
exercising their judgment and taste.

TEACHER S SUPPLEMENT.

Fig. 119. Overhanding.

To aid teachers, who
are not accustomed to
free-hand drawing, the
diagram may be marked
out previous to the les-
son with black crayon
or a soft slate-pencil ;
if this is clone lightly
it will not be percepti-
ble to the pupils.

By following this plan the different points of the lesson
can be easily illustrated, as the lesson proceeds; and it
has been found more effectual than a previously com-
pleted drawing.

Figures 117 to 121
are given as simple dia-
grams suitable to be
drawn on the blackboard.
They can be easily en-
larged by re-drawing
them in inch squares.
The lines represent the
threads of the cloth.
Different colored chalk
should be used in repre-
senting the joining of
the thread ; two colors
are also necessary in
marking to plainly show
that the stitches are
crossed in the same di-
rection.

(

)

(

)

Fig. 120. Darning a thin place
in cloth.

184

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

When giving a lesson on
drawing the stitches or gar-
ment, squared paper or sec-
tional exercise books will be
found helpful ; children will
also be interested, if allowed

to draw the stitches on the

Fig. 1 2 1. -Marking. blackboard.

Compositions. The various forms of manual training
furnish subjects for language work, both oral and written,
and sewing as a distinct and recognized form of manual
training, should receive, from both the sewing teacher and
the class teacher, attention as a means for the expression
of thought in composition work. Compositions should be
required on topics selected from the various subjects in
the sewing lessons. The topics for the lower classes
may be given on the different stitches, and for the older
classes, on drafting, cutting and making of garments.
"The benefits derived from a knowledge of sewing,"
"the source and manufacture of materials used in sew-
ing," "history of a garment," and kindred subjects may
be suggested as additional topics, according to the line of
work pursued.

If the pupils have taken drawing in connection with
sewing, they will be able to illustrate their compositions.
The compositions should be looked over by the sewing
teacher to determine the correctness of the knowledge of
the pupils.

Examinations. Oral or written examinations may be
given ; if the latter, they may take the form of a compo-
sition. The preparation of the trial-piece is a good test
in regard to the simple stitches.

TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 185

Exhibitions. An exhibition at the close of the year's
work is a great incentive, especially when all the sewing
of the year, from the trial-pieces to the cut and made
garments of all descriptions, is exhibited.

Mounting models. The models obtained from the les-
sons may be mounted for exhibition in a kindergarten
mounting-book or a scrap-book. An inexpensive book
may be made of manilla paper, securing the leaves together
with ribbons or fasteners, and made attractive by a
bright cover. A class-banner may be made of the models
by sewing them together, then lining and mounting them.
The models may also be mounted on a strip of cardboard,
folded backward and forward, the last fold being doubled
over the others. Sample models from each class may be
arranged on a large sheet of cardboard, with the pupils'
names written on labels. Inexpensive stands may be
made for the exhibiting of dresses, by fastening a stand-
ard, in the form of a cross, into a solid block of wood.
The cross-bar for the shoulders of the dress may be
straight or curved. For a child's dress, the block of
wood should be eight inches square, the upright thirty
inches high, and the cross-bar eleven inches wide. For a
larger dress, the block should be ten inches square, the
upright fifty inches high, and the cross-piece seventeen
inches wide.

Boys' sewing. Boys are now being taught sewing in
the lower classes of many of the public schools, and it
has been found helpful in forming habits of quietness,
neatness and accuracy, besides teaching them- to repair
their clothes. Boys are not generally immaculate, and
colored materials are more satisfactory than white. To
interest boys there must be a great variety in the work.

I 86 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

A successful teacher of boys begins by teaching the
stitches on colored canvas, following with a small checked
gingham bag, three or more stitches being taken in each
check. Then they learn the sewing-on of buttons ; a
gingham apron made for mother ; a flannel blouse ;
splashers ; darning, first on canvas or cardboard, then on
cloth ; patching ; the working of the alphabet and figures
on canvas, etc. An interesting outline map may also be
made, by tracing the map on paper and pricking the out-
line on drab cambric ; the pricking is done with a coarse
needle over a piece of heavy cardboard or felt. The land
may be outlined with white knitting cotton, the rivers with
finer cotton, the mountains represented by the knot-stitch,
the principle cities located with red embroidery cotton,
etc. Animals or any outline picture may be traced on
cambric.

Collection of work. At the close of each lesson, the
work should be collected in such a manner that it may be
readily distributed. This may be done by having a large
bag for each row, always beginning to collect at one end,
and to distribute at the other.

The waste-basket should be passed at the end of the
sewing lesson for the scraps of thread, etc.

KINDERGARTEN SEWING.

Sewing over outlines pricked on cards gives profitable
variety to manual work. The object of this kind of
work is various. By it the child acquires the use of the
needle. He becomes familiar with the elements of form,
the different lines, angles and geometric figures, and by
constantly working with them according to certain laws
of harmony and arrangement, he is enabled to apply
these laws in the expression of new forms, fostering the
inventive and artistic sense. The child's sense of color
is developed, as he is guided by the teacher in the selec-
tion of colors, and is shown wherein they blend harmoni-
ously. The sewing serves also as a most efficient means
for illustrating any subject under consideration.

This work assists in training the character, by the
exercise of the child's three-fold nature, physical, mental
and moral. Physically he gains control of his muscles
and acquires dexterity. His mental power of observation
is trained by the close observance required in the proper
representation of surrounding objects. His moral being
is developed by the necessity of exactness, patience and
care, and by the privilege that the child has of giving
of his efforts in the form of the simple little things that
he makes.

The first lesson in kindergarten -sewing should not
exceed half-an-hour in length, and may be given on work-
ing with worsted a circle perforated on a card. The
teacher should be furnished with long-eyed, blunt-pointed
needles, and a thread-case filled with split zephyr, silk,

I 88 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

or coarse sewing cotton (the latter can be obtained at a
kindergarten supply store). Before the lesson the teacher
should have all preparations completed, the needles
threaded with short lengths of worsted, which is tied
into the needle to prevent its becoming unthreaded, the
circle pricked on the cards, and the work begun.

A simple explanation* should precede the work, telling
what is to be done; why the knot is on the under side;
what we will call the circle, e.g. let us call this circle a
path, and build a fence on it, so that we may keep our
sheep inside, or some other simple illustration to arouse
the interest and lend a zest to the work. Now show the
pupil how to put the needle down through one hole, which
hides the point; let him look for the point, which he
finds by turning over the card; bring the point up through
the next hole, pointing it towards the ceiling. This ex-
planation may be given in the form of a play of hide and
seek, and must necessarily be repeated several times; indi-
vidual attention should be given to each one. Before the
work goes very far numerous accidents may occur, as the
worsted breaking, the card tearing, etc., but we must re-
member that this is the first lesson, and the little fingers
are entirely unaccustomed to such work, and a real effort
is made by them. Before working around the second
time, further illustrate, e.g. we have now partly finished
our fence, but what are all these openings between the
stitches ? We must fill them in, by going around again,
so our sheep cannot get out.

The advancement necessarily will be slow, but in time
they will be able to follow any pricked line. The back-
ward may be stimulated by praising the best work, and
the reward of taking the cards home is a great incentive.

TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 189

Encourage them to thread their own needles, using a few
fibres of cotton-batting to cover the ends of the worsted;
and also encourage them to fasten their thread; this is
done by putting the needle into the nearest stitch on the
wrong side, again putting the needle in, and leaving a
loop, pass the needle through the loop, and draw closely.

Try to follow nature, as much as possible, in the selec-
tion of colors, as, work an apple with red or yellow, and
have a brown stem.

A convenient case for holding the worsted, silk and
cotton, cut into the required lengths, may be made by
taking a piece of silesia (or any material) about twenty-
seven inches long, and eighteen inches wide. Have a
centre piece sixteen inches long and fourteen inches wide.
Bind the edges of each piece, and stitch them together
with rows of stitching one inch or less apart, according
to the kind of thread to be placed in it. At one end
place flannel leaves for needles, and at the other make
a full pocket for odds and ends. When the lesson is
through the ends may be folded over before rolling, and
everything is secure.

It is well to allow the children to select their colors,
draw the worsted from the case, and make their own
combinations.

If the children do the pricking they need to be sup-
plied with a pricking needle or a shawl pin, and a pad
made of heavy felt, glued to cardboard. The holes should
be one-eighth of an inch or farther apart.

Cards may be either stamped with the designs, or
merely pricked. There should be a separate card for
each series. When many copies of a design are needed,
a cardboard pattern may be cut, and the design traced by

1 90

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

it; or a hektograph may be used. The designs may also
be reproduced by using tracing and impression paper. A
pantograph is very convenient for enlarging or reducing
designs.

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TEACHERS SUPPLEMENT.

The illustrations on pages 190 to 197 will give an idea of
kindergarten work. Before beginning the regular series
of linear sewing, the circular course (page 195) is gener-
ally given, thus expressing the ideas of the first gift

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SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

lessons. Ideas of color may be further impressed by
filling in the sewed forms with colored crayons.

Linear sewing, as illustrated on pages 190 to 194, begins
with the simplest elements of all geometric forms or
designs, and leads by combinations to complex figures
in artistic work.

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TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT.

193

The ist series embraces the vertical line, then its
opposite, the horizontal ; combinations making angles.
Combinations of angles to make a border, stair pattern,
etc. The geometric figure from the same angle follows;
another combination makes the Greek cross.

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194

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

2nd series. Combinations of the same angles, part
of the lines twice the length of the others.

3d series. Combinations of vertical and horizontal
lines of unequal length, the vertical twice the length of
the horizontal.

4th series. Combinations of vertical and horizontal
lines, the horizontal twice the length of the vertical.

TEACHER S SUPPLEMENT.

195

5th series. The oblique line, and its combination into
angles, borders and geometric figures.

6th series. (No illustration.) Combinations of the
vertical with the oblique of a square.

/th series. (No illustration.) Combinations of the
horizontal with the oblique of a square.

8th series. Combinations of oblique lines of different
lengths, one line twice the length of the other.

196

SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Qth series. Combinations of vertical, horizontal and
oblique lines.

loth series. Introduces the diagonal of a vertical
oblong.

nth series. Introduces the diagonal of a horizontal

TEACHER S SUPPLEMENT.

I 9 7

oblong, and following patterns are given combining the
elements of series 10 and 11.

1 2th series. Combinations of vertical and horizontal
lines of unequal length with oblique; the oblique being
the diagonal of vertical oblong.

198 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

1 3th series. Combinations of vertical and horizontal
lines of unequal length with oblique ; the oblique being
the diagonal of horizontal oblong.

1 4th series. Equilateral triangles and their combi-
nations.

Followed by more complex combinations leading to
greater artistic efforts. The illustrations on page 196
represent the seedling maple, and the full-grown leaf; the
apple leaf, bud, blossom and fruit. The illustrations on
page 197 represents the bee and honey-comb; the cocoon,
moth and silkworm; the snail and his shell; the bird and
her nest. These may be enlarged (page 202), and used in
connection with nature lessons.

PRIMARY SEWING.

The tactile sense, a child's sense of touch, should be
developed from the very first, and should be cultivated
throughout his entire course of education.

The methods of kindergarten teaching are based on
this idea, and it should be continued in the primary and
again in the grammar schools. One projection of this
idea has been the adopting of clay modeling, paper folding,
etc., in many primary schools. As the course advances,
the rough, coarse materials should give place to finer ones ;
so the weaving of paper, sewing with embroider}' needles
and worsted on cardboard should be supplanted by finer
needles and thread and the use of cloth. There should
be no break between the sewing of the kindergarten and
that of the grammar grades, especially as the knowledge
gained in the primary facilitates and advances the work
in the grammar.

No objection can be raised because of mixed classes, as
experience teaches that primary sewing is enjoyed by
boys as much as by girls, and prepares the boys for their
manual work in the grammar school.

The educational value of sewing in the primary school
is of more importance than the utility.

Educational Sewing- Squares for Primary Work. One of
the various objections to primary sewing has been the
difficulty in preparing useful and interesting work. The
" Educational Sewing Squares " meet this difficulty. The
designs are representations of objects and geometric
forms, and in the sewing of them, the child not only

2OO SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

learns the stitches, but becomes familiar with the forms.
The child's eye and hand are trained by following the
stitches which are plainly marked on the cloth, and thus the
pupil is prepared for free-hand sewing. The work is pro-

Folding line.

Basting line.
Hemming line.

, _ Cutting line.

Fig. 130. Hemming.

and the squares, when finished, may be sewed
together for a doll's table-covering or bed-spread.

The " Educational Sewing Squares " consist of a sheet
of white cotton cloth, twenty-one by thirty-six inches, on
which are stamped thirty-two designs, each design being

- Cutting line.
Folding line.

Cutting line.

-^ Overhanding line.

Basting line
~ Cutting line.

Fig. 131. Overhanding.

in a four-inch square. At the sides are strips for hemming
and Overhanding (for samples of which see Figures 130
and 131) ; lines for cutting, folding, creasing and basting
are marked on each strip. At the upper side are four-
holed buttons (Fig. 132). Above the strip of buttons is

TEACHER S SUPPLEMENT.

2OI

the title of the squares ; to strengthen the cloth this
should be folded under and basted, before sewing the
buttons.

The squares are to be cut on the dash-lines. The edges
of the first twenty-two squares are marked for overcasting
(pages 204214) ; the edges of the next two squares are for
blanket-stitching (page 215) ; the next four squares may
be either overcast or blanket-stitched (pages 216-217); and
the last four squares are for free-hand sewing. The designs
are to be sewed either by running or by stitching ; there
are three sizes of each stitch, the aim being progression,

Folding line.

_ Basting line.
- Cutting line.

Fig, 132. Buttons.

Lessons. Sewing to a little child has a charm, because
mamma does it. At first, especially if the child has not
attended a kindergarten, it is difficult for the little hands
to use the needle, thread, thimble and cloth ; but the
work is attractive, and in time the obstacles will be over-
come.

The first lessons should be spent in teaching the posi-
tion of the body, holding of the work, threading of the
needle, wearing of the thimble, making knots, and fasten-
ing the thread (see General Directions). Explain the use
of the eye and sharp point of the needle ; and that the
thimble is worn to protect the finger in pushing the needle

2O2 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

through the cloth, the indentations holding the needle
firmly. Exercise the children in distinguishing the right
hand from the left. After supplying each child with a
well-fitting thimble, have them find the longest finger
of the right hand, and put the thimble on, pressing it
with the thumb. The needle and thimble drill (page 14)
should then follow. A drill on the stitch should be
given before allowing the children to work that stitch
on the squares.

As far as possible the squares should be sewed in con-
nection with the form. study, drawing and color-work.

For a demonstration lesson (page 163) the design can
be easily enlarged by dividing it into squares, and drawing
in the design on the same number of larger squares. 1
For this purpose squared paper, with the squares from
one-eighth of an inch to an inch in diameter, can be
obtained at a kindergarten supply store. The enlarged
design can be transferred to cloth by using impression
paper. A large bone needle can be used on Java canvas ;
if this kind of a needle is not easily obtained, a netting-
needle can be used by soldering the openings at the ends.

The length of time given to a lesson should depend
upon the number of pupils ; with a class rf fifty pupils
some teachers prefer to teach half the class for half the
alloted time, while others think best to teach the entire
class.

A coarse needle and coarse bright-colored thread are
suitable for a beginner to use ; finer ones may be used as
the pupil advances. A fast-colored thread is necessary,
as the squares will generally need washing after being

1 It is necessary to enlarge the design many times, that the lines and
dots may be plainly discerned from any part of the room.

TEACHER S SUPPLEMENT. 2O3

sewed. Different colored thread may be used to show
degrees of proficiency. Encourage the children to thread
their needles, and as soon as they succeed, allow them
to begin their work, or a little praise for success will
incite the backward.

The work should be begun at an advantageous place,
and long stitches should be avoided in passing from one
point to another.

The first stitch taught is overcasting, as the first work
done by the pupil is the overcasting of the edges of the
squares to prevent their ravelling.

Puckering the work, especially in running, must be
constantly guarded against. To aid in preventing this,
explain that the work must be smoothed out every few
stitches, and show, on a piece of cloth, how the work will
pucker if the thread is drawn tightly.

The more advanced pupils may use the Kensington
outline-stitch instead of stitching. A pretty square for
the centre of the doll's table-covering or bed-spread may
be made by hemming on a design or figure cut from
cretonne or momie cloth. Some of the pupils in the
higher classes may be able to make doll's garments,
patterns of which may be obtained from page 158.

The distribution and collection of the work may be
facilitated by having a separate box for each row ; each
child's name should be written on the back of the work,
or the child may write its name on paper and pin the
paper on to the work ; then, if the work is collected
systematically, it can be readily distributed at the next
lesson. Some teachers prefer for each child to have a
small bag, this avoids fitting thimbles at each lesson.

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COURSE OF SEWING FOR INDUSTRIAL
SCHOOLS.

In a large school it is necessary to have a test class, in
which the pupils are examined as to their ability and
proficiency.

PREPARATORY DEPARTMENT.

("EDUCATIONAL SEWING SQUARES" IN USE.)

Overcasting of the squares and running of the designs,
followed by the same stitches on basted patchwork.

Stitching of the designs, and the stamped, overhanding
stitch on the cloth ; stitching or overhanding of the
squares together.

The overhanding together of the covers of a silk
needle-book. If silk or some fine material is used, the
children make greater efforts, also if the completed article
is to be given to them.

The blanket-stitch on the squares, and on pieces of
flannel for leaves of the needle-book.

The stamped, hemming stitch on the cloth, and then on
cheap handkerchiefs.

Stitching the seams of a small bag made of nice material.

Overcasting the seams of the bag.

Hemming of the bag.

Catch-stitching on canvas, then on the outside seams
of the bag, with bright-colored embroidery silk. The
bag on completion is given to the pupil.

Darning over card-board.

Doll's clothes.

TEACHERS SUPPLEMENT. 221

ADVANCED CLASSES.

(MAIN SCHOOL.)

The more advanced pupils may be divided into four
grades in plain sewing, with special classes for button-hole
making, millinery, and embroidery work.

FIRST GRADE.

Unbleached cotton undergarments.
Colored flannel skirts, and towels.
Long-sleeved, dark-colored aprons.

SECOND GRADE.

Half-bleached cotton undergarments.
Gray flannel skirts, and handkerchiefs.
Light-colored calico aprons.

THIRD GRADE.
(THE PUPILS DO THEIR BASTING.)

Bleached cotton undergarments trimmed with ruffles.
Plain white flannel skirts, and white tiers.

FOURTH GRADE.
(THE PUPILS DO THE CUTTING.)

Bleached cotton undergarments trimmed.

White flannel skirts feather-stitched, and white aprons.

FIFTH GRADE.

Dressmaking and machine-stitching.

Millinery and embroidery classes.

When a pupil is ready to make button-holes in a gar-
ment, she should go into the button-hole class, where she
is also taught to sew on buttons, first practising on the
stamped buttons. On the completion of garments the
pupils should be allowed to buy them for a small sum.
Class bags, plainly marked, should be provided, and also
individual bags labeled by a tag fastened to the tape.

FACTS FOR OBSERVATION LESSONS.

(TO BE USED IN CONNECTION WITH THE SEWING CABINET.)
COTTON.

The cotton plant grows on plantations in warm coun-
tries. Most of the cotton used in the world is raised in
the United States, where the two principal varieties are
short-staple cotton or cotton having short fibres, and long-
staple cotton having long fibres. The short-staple or
upland cotton, which is chiefly raised, grows on a plant
from two to three feet in height. Long-staple or sea-
island cotton grows fifteen to twenty feet high, and is
found on the islands near the coast of the Southern
States. Sea-island cotton is much more valuable than
upland cotton.

The seed is sown in March and April, and early in June
the plant begins to bloom. The blossom resembles that
of the hollyhock, and changes its color, being a pale
straw-color in the morning, pure white at noon, pale pink
at night, and a clear pink the next morning. After the
flowers fall, the pods or bolls grow rapidly, and when ripe
burst open, showing the fleecy cotton ready for picking,
which is done by hand or by a machine.

It is separated from the seeds by being run through
the cotton-gin, then baled, and shipped to the manufact-
urers. The bale is opened, and the cotton is put through
a beater and picker-machine, which loosens the matted
fibres, and separates a portion of the sand and leaves. It
is subjected to a second, and sometimes a third process of

TEACHER S SUPPLEMENT. 223

picking, which forms it into laps, or rolls of cotton similar
to cotton batting.

These laps are taken to the carding-machines, where
they are carded, and sometimes combed, until the fibres
become sufficiently clean and even ; they are then called
slivers. The slivers pass to the drawing-machine, where
they are drawn even and parallel, and several of them are
united into one. Then they are twisted on the roving-
frames into rovings, which are wound upon bobbins.
They are next spun into yarn, by passing the rovings
through the spinning-machines.

When thread is to be made, the yarn is doubled and
twisted more than for weaving into cloth, as greater
strength is required. It is then reeled off into loose
hanks for washing, bleaching and dyeing, after which
comes the reeling on to bobbins, and the spooling. In
spooling, after the machine-tender has set the spool on
the spindle and attached the end of the thread from the
bobbin, the machine does the rest. It runs the thread
on evenly, without overlapping, or leaving a hair's breadth
between, and even adjusts its work with the same pre-
cision to the widening of the spool with every layer
of thread. It runs on exactly two hundred yards, and
at the right time and place, cuts the fine slit in the
edge of the spool, draws the end of thread tightly into
the slit, cuts it off, and drops the finished spool into
a tray. The spools are labeled and packed in boxes
containing a dozen each.

If the yarn is to be woven into cloth, the warp is
prepared on one machine, and the woof on another ;
the warp being made stronger than the woof, as a greater
strain comes on it. Then they are woven on the loom,

224 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

great care being taken that every thread is kept in its
proper position. In weaving, the warp threads are first
passed from the warp beam at the back of the loom, to
the cloth beam in front, on which the cloth is to be wound.
Plain weaving is done by passing the woof, in a shuttle,
alternately over and under each thread of the warp ;
this may be readily discerned by unravelling a piece
of cotton cloth. Twilled cloth is woven by varying the
number of threads passed over or taken up by the woof.
In piled cloth, like velvet, other threads are woven in
with the woof, making loops, which are afterwards cut
and sheared evenly. Mixed cloth is woven with the warp
of one color and the woof of another. In striped cloth
the warp is of two or more different colors ; and in
checked cloth the warp and woof are both of two colors,
one set of stripes crossing another.

White cloth is bleached after weaving. When calico
is made, the cloth is singed, then bleached, and the
coloring applied by a printing machine.

WOOL.

Wool is obtained chiefly from the sheep, also from the
alpaca, angora, and cashmere goat. It is brought mainly
from Australia, South Africa, and South America, but
the highest grade is obtained from the merinoes of
Saxony and Silesia in Germany.

Wool consists of wavy fibres varying from six to
twelve inches in length, and differing in grade. Each
fibre is covered with little sawlike teeth or scales over-
lying each other, and sticking out wherever a bend

TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 225

occurs. The points of the scales are exceedingly small,
but when spun, fit into each other and keep the thread
from untwisting.

After the wool has been sheared from the sheep,
which is done yearly, it is separated according to fineness
and length of fibre into sorts, by experienced men called
sorters. Then, as it is full of grease and dirt, it is
scoured by being immersed in successive vats of hot,
alkaline lye, varying in strength, until most of the
impurities are removed. After scouring, the wool is
dried, and it is then ready for further processes. At
this point the question must be decided whether the
fabric to be manufactured is to be a woollen or a
worsted.

Formerly, woollen goods were made from short-fibred
wool with high felting properties, while worsted goods
were made from long-fibred wool with poor felting proper-
ties, but now, from many kinds of wool both woollens and
worsteds can be made, the distinction between them
being caused by the different processes to which the wool
is subjected.

We will first describe the method of manufacturing
^woollens. After the wool is scoured, it is passed through
a willowing-machine in order to remove any dirt or dust
that may still adhere to it, and also to break up the
matted pieces. Then it is carded, by which the wool is
thoroughly cleaned from sticks and lumps, and the fibres
are torn apart and then interlaced with each other,
coming out in the form of a loose rope called sliver,
in which the separate fibres stand in an infinite variety
of positions with reference to each other. If the fabric
is to be wool-dyed, the next process is the dyeing, after

226 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

which it is drawn down by drawing, roving and spinning
frames into a woollen yarn.

If greater strength is required, two or more strands
are twisted together, making a woollen thread ready for
the loom. If the fabric is to be yarn-dyed, the dyeing
process occurs at this stage. The yarn is now woven
into cloth. It is fulled by being soaked in hot, soapy
water, and subjected to heavy pressure, thus causing the
fibres to felt together, and the cloth to shrink in width.
The fabric is now compact and firm, and is ready for the
finishing processes. The fibres are loosened and raised
to form a nap, by passing the surface of the cloth over
the sharp little hooks of the teasel, which are set in
rollers. Teasels are the flower heads of a variety of
thistle. Then the cloth is sheared to give a uniform
surface, and it is passed between steam rollers in order
to receive the smooth, glossy finish that renders it
attractive.

The processes used in making a worsted fabric are
different from those just described in several respects.
The object is to make a yarn in which the fibres shall
be drawn out parallel to each other, and then twisted to
ihe required degree.

The wool is put through various machines to straighten
out the fibres, and to take out those that are too short
for use. Long wools are put through preparers; shorter
wools are passed through carding-machines, both of which
bring the wool into a loose sliver, which, after being back-
washed and slightly oiled, is passed through a combing-
machine, where the short fibres, called noils, are combed
out, and there is formed a firm, smooth, clean rope made
up of long, parallel fibres loosely adhering to each other.

TEACHER S SUPPLEMENT. 22/

This rope is wound into balls or wool tops, about one
foot in diameter. Then follow the processes of drawing,
roving, spinning and twisting, care being taken to pre-
serve the substantial parallel relation of the fibres to each
other, until a smooth, level yarn is formed ready for weav-
ing into cloth.

After the cloth is woven it is dyed, if that has not
been done in the yarn, and it is then ready for the finish-
ing, which differs slightly from the method pursued in
making woollens. The cloth is not teazled, and is only
slightly fulled, sometimes not at all. It is singed by being
passed at a high rate of speed over a hot roller ; is steamed,
stretched, and pressed between rollers, and is then put up
in proper shape for sale.

LINEN.

Linen thread and cloth are made from the fibres of
the flax plant. The coverings in which the Egyptian
mummies have been found enveloped, prove that flax has
been used from the remotest times in the manufacture
of linen cloth. In the British Museum pieces of linen
four thousand years old may be seen. The best qualities
of flax come from France and The Netherlands.

The plant grows to a height of two or three feet, and
bears delicate blue flowers. The stalks of the plant are
hollow, and consist of a woody portion called the boon,
and a fibrous portion from which the thread is made. The
seeds furnish linseed-oil, used for mixing paints. If a
fine fibre is desired, the stalks are pulled up by the
roots, when the leaves begin to fall off and the bottom
of the stalks become yellow. By waiting until the

228 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

seeds are ripe, a coarser fibre and seeds for oil are ob-
tained.

After being dried in the sun, the seeds are removed,
and the stalks soaked or retted in water to loosen the
fibres from the boon. The fibres are dried and run
through rollers, which break the boon. Then they are
combed out or disentangled, and the wood removed by
the scutching-machine. The flax, now ready for the mill,
is put through the hackling-machine, where the short fibres
are separated from the long. The long fibres are called
line and go through the spread-board, while the short
fibres, called tow, pass through the carding-machine ; both
varieties entering cans called sliver-cans. The sliver then
passes through a number of drawing-frames, and after
being doubled and drawn out, it goes to the roving-frame,
where it is again drawn out, then twisted and wound on
to bobbins. The rovings are spun on the spinning-
frames and reduced to yarn, which is either woven into
cloth or twisted into thread. The linen is bleached for
white goods, or dyed for colored.

During all the operations the fibres must be kept wet
with warm water, to render them pliable.

Various kinds of heavy cloth, such as caavas, coarse
toweling, tent-cloth and bagging, are made from hemp,
which is prepared and wove similar to flax.

SILK.

There is no more interesting subject than the source
and manufacture of silk. The manufacture of silk doubt-
less originated in China. Although some silkworms are

TEACHER S SUPPLEMENT. 22Q

raised in this country, the greater part of the raw silk
is imported from China and Europe.

The silkworm moth lays the eggs from which the silk-
worms are hatched, and they in turn become moths. The
moth is about an inch long, having white wings marked
with broad pale-brown bars. One moth lays from three
hundred to seven hundred eggs, so small that it takes
three or four hundred eggs to cover a space as large as
a silver dollar. In a warm, dry temperature the eggs
will hatch in a few days. The young silkworm or cater-
pillar is dark-colored, and not more than a quarter of an
inch in length. When full grown the worm is about
three inches long; the body is made up of twelve joints,
and it has sixteen legs. It reaches maturity in about a
month, and during this time feeds upon the leaves of the
mulberry .tree, requiring constant feeding; it also changes
its skin four times. When about to spin its cocoon on
some convenient branch or roll of paper, it ceases to
eat.

The silk is produced from two small bags filled with a
liquid gum. From each bag comes a slender tube, which
unites into one tube near the mouth, through which the
gum is drawn and spun into silk; thus each fibre of silk,
when examined under a microscope, is seen to consist of two
strands, one from each bag. The silkworm first makes an
outer covering of coarse fibres called floss-silk, then, bend-
ing itself like a horseshoe, and moving its head from one
point to another, it entirely surrounds the body with silk,
not spun regularly around the cocoon, but back and forth,
so that sometimes yards may be unwound without turning
over the cocoon. The inner silk is the finest. The cocoon
is completed in a few days, and is about the size of a

230 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

pigeon's egg. If left undisturbed, in two or three weeks
the moth will eat its way through the cocoon, and in so
doing break and injure the silk ; to prevent this, it is
stifled or killed by heat.

Each cocoon contains about one-fourth of a mile of
thread, as fine as a cobweb, and it takes three thousand
cocoons to make a pound of silk. The cocoons are
first sorted, and. the outside threads removed. They are
next placed in tepid water, where they are stirred until
the ends of four or five threads are found and brought
together into a single thread, which is wound on to a
reel. Then it goes to the spinning-frames, where it is
doubled and twisted into the various sizes required for
sewing-silk or for weaving.

The silk after being cleaned (all the knots or obstruc-
tions removed) and dried, is ready to be colored and
woven into fabric on the loom. Silk is the strongest of
all fibres used for weaving.

The reeling or spinning of the silk is very difficult, as
the cocoons differ in color, quality and length. The silk
on the outside of the cocoon, and that near the chrysalis
is inferior and broken ; so this, with that from cocoons
which have been injured, is made into what ir; called spun-
silk. Raw silk is made from the perfect cocoons.

SCISSORS AND SHEARS.

Scissors and shears are made in various sizes and styles ;
strictly speaking, every pair over six inches in length
should be called shears. Those made from steel are
manufactured almost entirely in Germany ; in this country

TEACHERS SUPPLEMENT. 23!

malleable iron with steel for the inside edges is used.
Nearly all the work is done by hand, but the process of
making depends somewhat upon the size. Each pair
passes through the hands of fifty or sixty workmen before
completion.

The iron is first melted at the foundry and run into
moulds of the different shapes desired. The steel is run
into thin sheets, which are cut into strips, and these are
punched, and riveted to the iron by one blow of a hammer.
These pieces are then dipped in water and again in
powdered borax, to cleanse the surfaces of the iron and
steel, which would not unite without this process. After
being heated red hot in a furnace, the two metals are
welded together, and shaped by a die or stamp.

A large pair of shears is used to trim the steel, that
protrudes over the blades ; after which the blades pass
through the hands of a number of workmen, each doing
his part towards shaping the shears. They are hardened
by being plunged while red hot into a tank of cold water,
which renders them very brittle. To remedy the brittle-
ness they are put on a plate and again heated, until the
workman knows by the color that they are properly tem-
pered or toughened.

After various processes, in one of which the hole for
the screw is drilled, a temporary screw is put in, and the
points and handles adjusted. This screw is taken out
and the blades are numbered, in order that they may be
kept in pairs. They are ground on a round stone, making
a slight hollow on the surface of the blades ; this forms
an edge to cut on. A small elevation is also made close
behind the screw, which causes the blades to cant more
and more towards each other as they are closed. Then

232 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

the handles are japanned or nickel-plated, and the blades
are polished on emery wheels. After this they are taken
to a stamping-machine, where the maker's name is put on
them. Then the edges of the blades are sharpened on
fine emery wheels, the screw is put in, and the blades
adjusted.

Lastly they are carefully inspected, packed in boxes,
and are ready for market.

NEEDLES.

Needles have been used by the women of every
country, in every age. Bronze needles have been found
in Egyptian tombs, and we have mention of them in
the early history of the Greeks and Romans.

The common sewing needle is made from steel wire,
and is manufactured almost exclusively in England.
Although simple in form, a needle passes through the
hands of a hundred workmen before completion. The

^ 1

wire is cut from coils into pieces or blanks of twice the
required length of the needle. After being straightened,
the blanks are ground to a point at both ends, ai*l
flattened in the middle ; on this flattened surface the
groove for the thread is made, also two small indentations
to mark the places for the eyes, which are drilled by
machinery. The lengths are now separated, and are
hardened by being heated and dipped in oil ; then they
are tempered by again slowly heating and cooling. After
being scoured, rounded and polished, they are sorted, and
folded in papers, which, when labelled, are put up in
packages.

TEACHER S SUPPLEMENT. 233

Machine needles are manufactured in this country by
machines invented for the purpose. The work is similar
to that done on the common needle, machines being
substituted for part of the hand labor.

PINS.

Pins similar to those now in use were not known in
ancient times, when thorns, and bone, wooden, gold or
silver skewers were used to fasten the clothing. In the
sixteenth century, when first manufactured, they were
so expensive that only the rich could afford to buy them ;
when first made in the United States, a paper of pins
cost one dollar.

Pins are now manufactured by machines and are
made in many sizes. The wire, after being reduced to
the proper size and condition, is run through a machine,
which cuts it into the required length, forms the head,
and also sharpens the point and tempers it. The pins
are next cleaned, and the imperfect ones' thrown out^y
machinery. The third machine rolls them until they
are bright and smooth. Another machine sticks them
into the paper, and, after being inspected under a
magnifying glass, they are ready for market. A machine
has been invented which does the entire work. Black
pins are prepared by japanning the common pins.

234 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

THIMBLES.

Thimbles have been in use only about two hundred
years. They are made of metal, celluloid, or aluminum,
with either an open or closed top. The indentations on
the surface are made to hold the head of the needle
firmly.

In manufacturing metal thimbles, a thin disk or blank,
about the size of a silver half-dollar, is first cut from
sheet metal, ^and is then drawn into a cap. This cap is
heated and tapered, and the edges rolled ; the top and
then the sides are indented, and it is completed by being
polished and plated.

BUTTONS.

Buttons are made from many materials, and in many
sizes and shapes. The cheapest are made of porcelain,
which is pressed into moulds and baked.

Vegetable ivory buttons are made from the seeds of
the ivory plant. The plant grows on the Isthmus of
Panama, and resembles a palm. The fruit is round, from
eight to twelve inches in diameter, and weighs about
twenty-five pounds. It is composed of six or seven
portions, each portion containing from six to nine seeds.
These seeds, when ripe, are pure white, free from veins
or any dots, and are about two inches in diameter. The
substance is so hard that it can be readily turned in
the lathe.

The seeds or nuts are sawed into slabs, from which
the buttons are turned. The next operation is that

TEACHERS SUPPLEMENT. 235

of drilling the holes; some buttons are drilled with four
holes, others with two holes, while others are not drilled,
but have what is called a self-shank.

After being dyed or colored they are finished by polish-
ing and mottling. Horn and bone buttons are made in a
similar manner.

Cloth-covered button. In the manufacture of cloth-
covered buttons, two round pieces of cloth, one for the
covering and one for the shank, two collets of tin and a
thick paper filling are used. The tuft of strong linen is
placed in the under collet, and a die or stamp comes down,
and presses the tuft through the collet, making the flexible
shank by which the button is sewed on. The cloth cov-
ering is then placed on the upper collet or shell, and
pressed up into a die. Just before the die holding the
upper part of the button is pressed into the one holding
the under part, the paper filling is put in. As the dies
come together they turn the edge of the shell over the
collet, and the different parts are thus held strongly
together.

Flat metal button. -- The four-holed metal button is
manufactured from collets or disks cut from sheet metal.
The under collet of the button is cut from tin, the upper
collet from brass. Then the collets are shaped and the
four holes punched by a machine. A piece of straw-
board of the same form is prepared, and the three pieces
are bound together by solidly lapping the edge of the
brass or larger collet over the other two.

Hollow gilt button with shank. This button consists
of three pieces of brass, the front, back and the wire
eye. The manufacture is described in the following steps,
which may be readily understood if samples are shown.

236 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

Front. i . Blanking, or cutting out the round disk
from the sheet. 2. Stamping, or raising the figure. 3.
Annealing, or softening after the stamping. 4. Pickling,
or removing the oxide produced by the annealing. 5.
Drawing or shaping the front. 6. Annealing. 7. Pick-
ling. 8. Cleaning, or removing by acids the scales pro-
duced upon the surface during the manufacture of the
metal. 9. Lacquering the inside. 10. Drying the
lacquer, which has been applied to the inside of the front,
in order that in the process of fire-gilding no gold may be
wasted by attaching itself to the inside, n. Cleaning,
or preparing for the gold. 12. Gilding, showing the
result after the gold has been applied. The application
of this gold is by what is known as the "fire gilding
process," in which the gold is first dissolved in mercury,
and applied to the surface of the metal. After this the
mercury is volatilized in an oven and passes up the chim-
ney from the oven, leaving the gold in chemical contact
with the surf ace of the metal. 13. Scratching, or bright-
ening by rubbing with a bunch of fine wire. 14. Color-
ing, or bringing out the color of the gold. 15. Burnish-
ing, or brightening the surface of the letters with a
burnishing-stone.

Back. i . Cutting and bending the wire for the eye.
2. Blanking, or cutting out the round disk from the
sheet. 3. Heading, or attaching the eye to the back.
4. Charging, or placing of the soldering paste about the
wire. 5. Soldering. 6. Cleaning, by immersion in
acids. 7. Stamping into shape, including the embossing
of the letters. 8. Silvering. 9. Burnishing.

Uniting. i . Closing, or uniting of the front and
the back, both of which have been separately finished.

TEACHERS SUPPLEMENT. 237

2. Edging, or burnishing of the extreme edge. 3. Bottom-
ing, or burnishing of the edge and the back. 4. Bevel-
ing, or burnishing of the edge and the front side. 5.
Finished button.

HOOKS AND EYES.

Hooks and eyes are manufactured from wire by ma-
chinery. Two hundred hooks and the same number of
eyes, each being made by its own machine, can be manu-
factured in a minute. The wire, on being unwound from
a reel, is cut into the required length, and drawn into the
machine, where it is bent into shape and comes out com-
pleted. They are silvered or blackened with japan varnish.

The machines run automatically, all that the machine
tender has to do is to see that they are supplied with wire.
The hooks and eyes have to be sewed and stuck on to
cardboard by hand.

EMERY.

Emery is a variety of corundum, and is ranked among
the hardest of minerals. It derives its name from Cape
Emeri on the island of Naxos, Grecian Archipelago,
where the best variety is obtained. It is also found in a
number of places in the United States.

It is used for polishing metals. The stone is crushed
and sifted into powder of different fineness.

238 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

WAX.

Bees-wax is an animal secretion, formed by the bees,
and constitutes the material of which the cells of the
honey-comb are composed. After the honey is removed,
the wax is dirty, tough and yellow. To make it pure and
white, the wax is melted and stirred in boiling water ;
when cooled the pure wax rises to the top. It is again
melted, and then bleached in the open air, until it becomes
white. It is finally melted, strained through sieves and
cast in molds.

SCHOOL-CABINET.

A very interesting school-cabinet can be made by pro-
curing the following named articles, 1 and pictures of the
different machines used in their manufacture. They may
be put into mounting-boxes or fastened on to cards, and
thus easily shown the pupils.

Cotton. i. Cotton seeds. 2. Roots and -stalks. 3.
Leaves and blossoms. 4. Pods or bolls. 5. Sample
from cotton-gin. 6. Sample from combined beating and
scutching-machine, called laps. 7. Sample from carding
or combing-machine, called sliver. 8. Sample from draw-
ing-machine, still called sliver. 9. Samples from the
different roving-machines, called rovings. 10. Sample
from ring-frame, called warp. 1 1 . Sample from mule-
frame, called filling or woof. 12. Samples of thread.
13. Sample of unbleached cloth from the loom. 14.
Sample of bleached cloth. 15. Samples of the various
kinds of cotton cloth.

Wool. i . Samples of wool on the hide of both the
sheep and the goat. 2. Sample of wool sheared from
the sheep. 3. Sample after being scoured and dried.
4. Sample from the willowing-machine. 5. Sample from
the carding-machine. 6. Sample from the drawing-ma-
chine. 7. Samples from the roving-machines. 8. Sam-
ples from the spinning-frames. 9. Samples of yarn. 10.
Sample of woollen cloth from the loom. 1 1. Sample after

1 The author has five hundred specimens, besides illustrations.

24O SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

being fulled. 12. Sample after being teaseled and sheared.
13. Teasels. 14. Sample after being finished. 15. Sam-
ple of worsted cloth from the loom. 16. Sample after
being scoured and dried. 17. Sample after being dyed
and rough dried. 18. Sample after being finished.

19. Samples of camel's hair in the different processes.

20. Samples of the various kinds of woollen and worsted
goods.

Linen. i. Flax-seeds. 2. Roots and stalks. 3.
Leaves and blossoms. 4. Sample after being retted and
dried. 5. Sample after being broken to crack the wood
or boon. 6. Sample after being scutched and freed from
the boon, called rough flax. 7. Sample from hackling-
machine, called line. 8. Sample from hackling-machine,
called tow. 9. Sample from spread-board, called sliver.

10. Sample from carding-machine. 11. Sample from
drawing-machine. 12. Samples from roving-frames. 13.
Samples from spinning-frames. 14. Samples of thread.
15. Sample of unbleached cloth from the loom. 16.
Sample of bleached cloth. 17. Samples of the various
kinds of linen cloth.

Silk. i. Mulberry leaves. 2. Eggs. 3. Silkworms.
4. Cocoons. 5. Cocoon cut lengthwise ?nto halves
showing chrysalis. 6. Moth leaving cocoon. 7. Moth.
8. Silk spun from cocoon. 9. Samples from the reeling-
machines. 10. Samples from the spinning-frames.

11. Samples of thread. 12. Sample from the loom.
13. Samples of the various kinds of silk fabrics.

Scissors. i. Iron ore and nickel. 2. Blades moulded
from iron. 3. Steel riveted to the blades. 4. Steel and
iron welded together. 5. Blades trimmed. 6. Blades
tempered. 7. Points and handles adjusted. 8. Blades

TEACHER'S SUPPLEMENT. 241

numbered and ground. 9. Nickel-plated or handles
japanned. 10. Finished scissors.

Needles. i. Steel wire or blank. 2. Ends sharp-
ened. 3. Groove made. 4. Eyes punched. 5. Lengths
separated. 6. Finished needle.

Sewing-machine needles. i. Blank. 2. Ends pointed.
3. Swaged or compressed. 4. Clipped. 5. Stamped
(name and size). 6. Pointed. 7. Grooved. 8. Eye
punched. 9. Hardened. 10. Polished. n. Finished.

Pins. L Brass wire. 2. Head formed. 3. Ends
sharpened. '4. Finished pins after whitening or japan-
ning.

Thimbles. i. Blank. 2. Cap. 3. Cap tapered. 4.
Edge trimmed. 5. Flange rolled. 6. Flange finished
and milled. 7. Top indented. 8. Sides indented.
9. Plated thimble. 10. Various kinds of thimbles.

Buttons. Vegetable Ivory button. i. Nut or seed.
2. Sawed into slabs. 3. Button turned from the slab,
and slab as it remains. 4. Holes drilled. 5. Finished
button.

Metal button, I. Upper collet of brass. 2. Under
collet of tin. 3. Straw-board filling. 4. Finished button.

Cloth-covered button.-- i. Shell, or upper collet.
2. Under collet. 3. Paper filling. 4. Round piece of
linen for tuft. 5. Round piece of woollen cloth for
covering. 6. Finished button.

Hollow gilt btitton with shank. i. Blanking. 2.
Stamping. 3. Annealing. 4. Pickling off. 5. Draw-
ing. 6. Annealing. 7. Pickling off. 8. Cleaning. 9.
Lacquering. 10. Drying off. n. Cleaning. 12. Gild-
ing. 13. Scratching. 14. Coloring. 15. Burnishing.
1 6. Wire for eye. 17. Eye bent. 18. Blanking for

242 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.

back. 19. Heading. 20. Charging. 21. Soldering.
22. Cleaning. 23. Stamping. 24. Silvering. 25.
Burnishing. 26. Closing. 27. Edging. 28. Bottom-
ing. 29. Beveling. 30. Finished button.

Hooks and Eyes. Hooks. i. Wire. 2. Wire bent
forioop. 3. Small circles formed. 4. Loop bent over.
5. Loop flattened. 6. Hook silvered or japanned.

Eyes. i. Wire. 2. Wire bent for loop. 3. Small
circles formed. 4. Eye silvered or japanned.

Einery. i. Emery-stone. 2. Powder. 3. Emery-bag.

Wax. -- i. Bee. 2. Honey-comb. 3. Yellow and
white wax.

INDEX TO TEACHER'S EDITION.

Alphabets, 126, 127, 128.
Articles needed, i.
A-shopping expedition, 177.
Basting, 21, 167.
Bias piecing, 109.
Bindings, 46.

Stitching and hemming, 46.

Setting in, 49.

Overhanding, 51.
Blackboard, 181.
Blanket-stitch, 122.
Blind-stitch, 77.
Boys' sewing, 185.
Button-holes, 53, 168, 179.
Buttons, 61, 234, 241.
Canvas-work, 18, 169.
Catch-stitch, 1 17.
Chain-stitch, 120.
Cloth, 8.

Collection of work, 186.
Compositions, 184.
Corners mitred, in.
Cotton, 222, 239.
Course of sewing, 172'.
Creasing, 19, 167.
Cutting, 10, 129, 169.

Two-breadth apron, 133.

Child's bib, 134.

Pockets, 135.

Child's drawers, 137.

Night-dress yoke, 139.

Child's sack tier, 142.
Gored skirt, 148.
Drawers, 149.
Child's waist, 153.
Hints for a plain basque, 156.
Doll's patterns, 159.
Dark days, 177.
DARNING

Cloth darning, 93, 169.
Straightway-darn, 93.
Bias-darn, 95.
Corner-darn, 96.
Darning with a piece under-
neath, 97.
Fine drawing on heavy woollen

material, 98.
Stockinet darning, 85.
Practice in weaving, 85.
Stockinet darning, 86.
Grafting, 89.
Swiss-darning, 90.
Stocking-web stitch, 90.
Demonstration lessons, 163.
Directions for sewing, 2.
Drafting, 132, 169.
Drawing lessons, 182.
Drills, 14, 163.
Dropping articles, 178.
Edgings, 78.
Lace, 78.
Hamburg, 80.

244

INDEX TO TEACHER S EDITION.

Educational Sewing Squares for

Primary Work, 199.
Embroidery knots, 124.
Emery, 237, 242.
Examinations, 185.
Exhibitions, 184.
Eyelet-holes, 63.
Facings, 52.
Fancy-work, 178.
Feather-stitch, 119, 169.
Felling, 75.

Fractions of a yard, 13.
French hem on damask, 77.
French seam, 76.
Gathering, 36, 168.

Double gathering, 40.

Placing or stroking of gathers, 38.
Grafting, 89.
Gussets, 66.

Gusset and facing combined, 69.
Half-backstitch ing, 25.
Hemming, 25, 167.
Hem-stitch, 115.
Herringbone-stitch, 117.
Honey-combing, 44.
Hooks and eyes, 64, 237, 242.
How to keep the pupils busy, 167.
Industrial schools, course of sewing

for, 220.

Kensington outline-stitch, 121.
Kindergarten sewing, 187.
Knots, 7.
Linen, 227, 240.
Loops, 65.
Loops of tape, 113.
Marking, 125, 169.
Measure, 13.
Mitring the corner of a hem, 112.

Mitring two strips of cloth, in.
Mounting models, 185.
Needles, 4, 232, 241.

~- <T

Numbers of needles and thread,
Overcasting, 31, 168.
Overhanding, 33.
Patching, 100, 169.

Hemming, 100.

Overhanding, 103.

Catch-stitching, 105.
Pins, 233, 241.
Piping, no.
Placket, 70.
Plaiting, 73, 168.
Primary sewing, 199.
Putting away the work, 2.
Ruffles, 80.
Running, 28, 168.
Running and a backstitch, 30.
Sampler, 179.
Scalloped edge, 43.
Scissors, 10, 178, 230, 240.
Shirring, 42.
Silk, 228, 240.

Simultaneous teaching, 163.
Sinistrous pupils, 178.
Slip-stitch, 77.
Smocking, 44.
Stitching, 23.
Stocking-web stitch, 90.
Thimbles, 234, 241.
Thread, 5, 167.
Threading the needle, 6.
Trial-piece, 166.
Tucking, 71.
Wax, 238, 242.
Whipping, 82, 1 68.
Wool, 224, 239.

UNIVERSITY

ADVERTISEMENTS.

CLASSICS FOR CHILDREN.

Choice Literature ; Judicious Notes ; Large Type ; Firm
Binding ; Low Prices.

Hans Andersen's Fairy Tales.

* FIRST SERIES: Supplementary to the Third Reader.

* SECOND SERIES: Supplementary to the Fourth Reader.
*/Esop 's Fables, with selections from Krilof and La Fontaine.
*Kingsley 's Water-Babies : A story for a Land Baby.
*Ruskin 's King of the Golden River : A Legend of Stiria.
*The Swiss Family Robinson. Abridged.

Robinson Crusoe. Concluding with his departure from the island.
*Kingsley's Greek Heroes. Franci/lon's Gods and Heroes.

Lamb 's Tales from Shakespeare. " Meas. for Meas." omitted.

Scott's Tales of a Grandfather.
*Martineau's Peasant and Prince.

Banyan's Pilgrim's Progress.

Scott's Lady of the Lake. Scott's Lay of the Last Minstrel.

Lamb's Adventures of Ulysses.

Tom Brown at Rugby.

Church 's Stories of the Old World.

Scott's Talisman. Complete.

Scott's Quentin Durward. Slightly abridged.

Irving 's Sketch Book. Six selections, including ' Rip Van Winkle.'

Shakespeare's Merchant of Venice.

Scott's Guy Mannering. Complete.

Scott's Ivanhoe. Complete. Scott's Rob Roy. Complete.

Johnson 's Rasselas, Prince of Abyssinia.

Gulliver's Travels. The Voyages to Lilliput and Brobdingnag.

Plutarch's Lives. From Clough's Translation.

Irving-Fiske's Washington and His Country.

Goldsmith's Vicar of Wakefield.
*Franklin : His Life by Himself.

Selections from Ruskin.
*Hale's Arabian Nights. Heroic Ballads.

Grote and Segur's Two Great Retreats.

Irving' s Alhambra. Selections for Memorizing.

Scott's Marmion. Scott's Old Mortality,

Don Quixote. Thoughts of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus. Epictetus.

Starred books are illustrated.

CINN & COMPANY, Publishers,

BOSTON, NEW YORK, AND CHICAGO.

BOOKS FOR TEACHERS.

COURSES AND METHODS.

COURSES OF STUDIES AND METHODS OF TEACHING

By JOHN T. PRINCE, Agent Mass. Board of Education. i2mo c
Cloth, x + 344 pages. Teachers' price, 75 cents.

Part First gives courses of study for Graded and Ungraded Schools;
Part Second, methods of teaching all the subjects belonging to the
common school curriculum, together with general suggestions, prin-
ciples, etc. ; Part Third, Organization, Moral Training, and Govern-
ment, including lists of apparatus, reference-books, etc.

This book is not intended as an exhaustive or philosophical treatise
upon education ; nor does the author claim to have presented much
that is new or original. It is written in response to a desire often
expressed in various quarters for a brief plan of studies that may be
pursued in elementary schools, and for a simple and direct statement
of good methods of organization, teaching, and discipline.

Sensible and useful. It is one of the most sensible and useful books that
I have recently seen. C. C. ROUNDS, Prin. N.H. State Normal School.

Simple, plain, and practical. I find in it little to criticise and much to
praise. It is simple, plain, and practical, avoids extremes and " isms" of all sorts,
and affords usually help enough to enable an intelligent beginner to grasp clearly the
purposes and methods of school work. J. W. STEARNS, Prof, of Science and Art
of Teaching^ Univ. of Wisconsin.

Principles as well as methods. While being, as its title implies, chiefly
concerned with methods, it does not lose sight of these great underlying principles
which alone can give life to methods. I know of no other book in which the vital
union between the two is made so apparent. ELLEN HYDE, Prin. of State Norm'-
School, Framingham, Mass.

BRIEF COMMENTS.

" Timely."

" Simple, practical, and succinct."

"The kind of a book that teachers
will read."

" Comprehensive."

" Affords direct help at a critical
point."

" Bears the Veight of authority."

" S
do it."

eg
" Shows just what to do and how to

Avoids extremes and ' isws.' "
" An aid to superintendents and com-
mittees."

" Suggestive."

" Gives definite and minute directions
for teaching each subject."

" Helpful matter, judiciously chosen
and clearly stated."

" Illustrates the vital connection be-
tween principles and methods:"

" The work of an experienced, prac-
tical educator."

" No teacher of experience can read
it without profit."

" Helps teachers put their work on
rational grounds."

FOR TEACHERS OF ARITHMETIC.

FIRST STEPS IN NUMBER. (Teachers' Edition.)

By G. A. WENTWORTH, A.M., and Miss E. M. REED, Principal of
Manual Training School, Springfield, Mass. Half morocco, vi + 474
pages. Teachers' and introduction price, 90 cents. Also issued in
three parts (30 cents each to teachers), bound in boards, as follows:
PART!. First Year (Nos. i to 9 inclusive), 216 pages; PART II.
Second Year (Nos. 10 to 20 inclusive), 116 pages ; PART III. Third
Year (Nos. from 21), 156 pages.

The Teachers' Edition takes up the work with the number three,
and proceeds step by step, following the law of dependence and sim-
plicity. Each of the smaller numbers is presented in succession under
the four heads: I. Perception of the number. 2. Analysis of the
number. 3. Drill upon facts discovered by analysis. 4. Comparison
with smaller numbers. The number, variety, and ingenuity of the
examples are astonishing.

It is unique. There is no other book of the kind to be compared with it.
O. T. BRIGHT, Supt. of Schools, Englewood, III.

FRACTIONS. A Teachers' Manual of Objective and Oral Work.

By HELEN F. PAGE, State Normal and Training School, New Britain,
Conn. 8vo. Boards, iv -f- 47 pages. Mailing price, 35 cents ;
introduction price, 30 cents.

This hand-book has been prepared to help teachers who are trying
to present the subject of Common Fractions in a natural, interesting,
and, at the same time, systematic manner. Sample lessons are given
for objective work in all the operations, the material suggested being
cardboard discs and the measures yards, bushels, gallons, etc. Problems
abound, and a system of illustration of fractional facts with color-
diagrams is introduced. By means of this system, a child may teach
himself a great deal in a short time.

We can see no excuse for serious difficulty or waste of time in teaching fractions
hereafter. JOURNAL OF EDUCATION, Boston.

HOW TO TEACH NUMBER.

This is a pamphlet outlining the method followed in Wentworth's
Series of Arithmetics. Specimen pages are given from the Primary
and Grammar School Arithmetics. It is sent to teachers free of charge.

PRIMARY NUMBER CARDS.

Prepared by Miss ISABEL SHOVE, of the George Putnam School,
Boston. Printed on cardboard, and boxed in sets of 60. Price,
25 cents.

Each card has one example in addition, subtraction, multiplication,
and division, the simplest work being on the first numbers.

THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW

AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS

WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN
THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY
WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH
DAY AND TO $1.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY
OVERDUE.

rtUU 6 1935

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UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA UBRARY