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f  ant'ee  $.  llaranck. 


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m  •  ', 


PUBLICATIONS 

OF  THE 

SCOTTISH  HISTORY  SOCIETY 

VOLUME    LII 


MACFARLANE'S 
GEOGRAPHICAL    COLLECTIONS 

VOL.   II. 


MAY  1907 


GEOGRAPHICAL 
COLLECTIONS 

RELATING    TO    SCOTLAND 

MADE    BY 

WALTER    MACFARLANE 

Edited  from  Macfarlane's  Transcript 
in  the  Advocates'  Library 

BY 
SIR  ARTHUR  MITCHELL,  K.C.B. 

M.A.,  M.D.,  LL.D. 


IN    THREE   VOLUMES 

VOLUME      II 


EDINBURGH 

Printed  at  the  University  Press  by  T.  and  A.  CONSTABLE 

for  the  Scottish  History  Society 

1907 


Tifl 

ISO 
S25 


PREFACE 

DIFFERENCES  BETWEEN  VOLUMES  i  AND  n. 

THE  second  volume  of  the  Macfarlane  Geographical  Collec- 
tions relating  to  Scotland  differs  from  the  first  volume  in 
several  important  respects. 

The  writers  of  the  Descriptions  are  fewer  in  number  ;  they 
belong  to  a  different  class  ;  and  their  contributions  are  longer 
and  of  an  earlier  date.  In  the  second  volume,  as  in  the  first, 
many  of  the  Accounts  appear  without  name  and  without  date, 
but  the  authorship  of  a  considerable  number  of  these  can  be 
made  out  with  an  approach  to  certainty,  and  so  also  can  the 
time  at  which  they  were  written.  All  the  dated  Descriptions 
in  the  first  volume  lie  in  the  eighteenth  century,  but  the 
Descriptions  in  the  second  volume  lie  largely  in  the  seven- 
teenth or  sixteenth  century,  and  it  is  certain  that  not  one  of 
them  was  sent  to  Macfarlane  by  its  author.  He  obtained 
them,  indeed,  from  the  Collections  made  by  Sir  Robert 
Sibbald  to  assist  in  the  preparation  of  a  projected  Scottish 
Atlas.  These  Collections  consist  to  some  extent  of  Descrip- 
tions of  parts  of  Scotland  made  for  Sibbald's  use,  but  they 
consist  also,  and  mainly,  of  Descriptions  made  by  Timothy 
Pont,  Robert  Gordon,  James  Gordon,  Scot  of  Scotstarvet, 
David  Buchanan,  and  others,  not  for  Sibbald's  use.  These 
latter  were  given  to  Sibbald  by  James  Gordon,  probably  not 
long  after  1683,  most  of  them  having  been  prepared  for  Blaeu's 
use  in  compiling  the  Scottish  volume  of  his  great  Atlas. 
Font's  maps  and  papers  came  into  the  hands  of  Sir  Robert 
Gordon  through  Sir  John  Scot  of  Scotstarvet,  and  were  passed 


vi  PREFACE 

on  to  Sibbald  by  Sir  Robert's  son,  James  Gordon,  the  Parson  of 
Rothiemay,  along  with  other  material  collected  or  compiled  by 
himself  and  by  his  father.  Out  of  the  Sibbald  Collections  and 
the  Scottish  volume  of  Blaeu,  the  second  volume  of  Mac- 
farlane  could  nearly  be  compiled.  There  is  no  Article  in  it 
written  by  Macfarlane  himself  or  by  any  one  for  his  use.  He 
calls  his  Collections  Geographical,  but  they  include  Articles 
that  cannot  be  so  described : — for  instance,  the  Discourse 
anent  the  Government  of  Scotland  before  the  late  Troubles. 

The  volumes  of  the  Sibbald  Collections  in  the  Advocates'1 
Library  to  which  I  shall  have  occasion  to  refer  are  four  in 
number,  namely  (1)  Topographical  Notices  of  Scotland 
(34.2.8),  (2)  Collections  for  the  Description  of  Scotland 
(33.5.15),  (3)  Repertory  of  Manuscripts  (33.3.16),  and  (4)  a 
thin  4to  book  containing  Descriptions  of  the  Shire  and  City 
of  Edinburgh  (31.6.19). 

MACFARLAXK'S  AND  SIBBALD'S  COLLECTIONS. 

It  is  a  thing  difficult  of  explanation  how  it  happened  that 
John  Taitt,  Macfarlane's  transcriber,  copied  Descriptions  and 
other  things  out  of  the  Sibbald  Collections  without  revealing 
4  whence  the  copy  was  made.1  He  practically  never  does  this. 
It  is  as  remarkable  a  thing  that  Macfarlane  allowed  such 
copies,  with  no  indication  of  their  origin  or  date,  to  pass  into 
his  Collections.  It  seems,  however,  to  be  a  somewhat  frequent 
feature  of  such  Collections  to  have  this  form  of  defect.  It 
appears  with  frequency  in  the  poorly-arranged  Sibbald  Collec- 
tions; but  the  items  there  are  often  in  scripts  that  are  known 
to  be  those  of  men  engaged  in  writing  Scottish  topographical 
Descriptions,  and  this,  with  internal  evidence,  is  often  suffi- 
cient to  determine  the  authorship  and  date.  It  has  been 
a  work  of  some  sl::e  and  difficulty  to  make  even  a  superficial 
search  through  the  Sibbald  MS.  Collections,  for  the  purpose 


PREFACE  vii 

of  finding  whether  Taitt  had  found  his  matter  there,  and 
who  were  the  probable  authors  of  what  he  copied.  When 
he  transcribed,  which  he  did  with  the  average  inaccuracy  of 
transcribers,  from  what  was  in  the  handwriting  of  its  probable 
author,  he  was  in  a  sense  passing  on  an  original.  But  he  had 
frequently  to  copy  from  a  known  handwriting  what  was  almost 
certainly  not  the  composition  of  the  writer,  but  was  itself  a 
copy.  For  instance,  Timothy  Font's  Notes  are  in  the  Sibbald 
Collections  in  the  script  of  James  Gordon,  so  that  Taitt 
in  copying  them  for  Macfarlane  was  copying  a  copy,  and 
there  is  internal  evidence,  with  occasionally  open  avowal,  that 
James  Gordon  was  far  from  being  a  mere  copyist  of  what 
Pont  wrote.  He  added  and  deleted,  he  corrected  what  he  re- 
garded as  errors,  and  he  changed  words  with  the  freedom  that 
editors  often  allow  themselves.  Thus  it  happens  that  it  is  not 
quite  correct  to  attribute  these  Notes  definitely  to  Pont,  because 
they  are  only  Font's  as  abridged,  amplified,  or  otherwise  changed 
by  James  Gordon.  Considerations  of  this  kind  have  led  me 
to  think  it  desirable  to  give,  further  on  in  this  Introduction, 
a  short  statement  of  such  things  as  have  come  to  my  know- 
ledge regarding  separate  Descriptions,  or  groups  of  Descrip- 
tions, contained  in  this  second  volume  of  Macfarlane.  In  this 
way  I  shall  often  be  able  to  tell  whether  a  Description  does 
or  does  not  appear  in  the  Sibbald  Collections ;  if  it  does 
appear,  whether  the  handwriting  is  known  ;  whether  it  has 
been  printed  in  the  Scottish  volume  of  Blaeu  ;  whether  it  has 
been  printed  by  the  Bannatyne  Club,  the  Old  Spalding  Club, 
or  the  Spottiswoode  Society ;  whether  it  has  been  printed  as 
a  separate  work ;  what  date  can  approximately  be  attached 
to  it ;  and  to  give  other  such  information. 

MANY  OF  THE  DESCRIPTIONS  IN  LATIN. 

There  is  another  difference  between  the  first  and  the  second 
volume  in  respect  that  a  considerable  part  of  the  second  volume 


viii  PREFACE 

is  in  the  Latin  tongue.  This  has  caused  some  difficulty.  For 
half  a  century  and  more  I  have  had  little  occasion  to  read 
Latin  of  any  kind.  I  have  been  able,  however,  to  get  such 
assistance  as  I  needed  in  the  matter  of  Latinity.  A  special 
difficulty,  however,  arose  from  the  use  of  Latin  in  writing  the 
Descriptions.  I  was  at  pains  to  state  in  the  Preface  to  the 
first  volume  that  it  was  my  aim  to  put  the  Macfarlane  MS.  into 
print  without  additions,  deletions,  or  changes  of  any  kind.  I 
have  had  the  same  desire  as  regards  the  second  volume,  and,  as 
regards  the  Descriptions  in  English,  I  think  I  have  had  a  fair 
success.  But  I  felt  that  I  could  not  properly  deal  with  the 
Latin  as  I  dealt  with  the  English,  chiefly  because  Taitt,  not 
being  a  Latinist,  had  introduced  into  his  transcriptions  a  large 
number  of  confusing  grammatical  errors.  Sir  William  Fraser 
says  that  he  'appears  to  have  been  a  good  Latin  scholar1 
(Cartulary  of  Cambuskenneth,  p.  xv,  1872) ;  but,  pace  tant'i 
viri,  I  adhere  to  the  opinion  I  have  expressed.  He  copied 
Latin  with  less  accuracy  than  he  copied  English.  I  ascer- 
tained this  by  comparing  some  of  his  transcripts  with  the 
Latin  from  which  he  copied.  Then,  further,  the  extraordinary 
eccentricities  of  punctuation  are  more  serious  in  Latin  than 
in  English.  Therefore,  I  felt  that  it  was  desirable  to  eliminate, 
or  at  least  reduce,  the  errors  of  grammar  in  the  Latin  and  to 
improve  the  punctuation ;  and  a  trial  made  it  evident  that 
this  could  be  done  almost  without  any  change  of  wording. 
Taitt  often  copied  his  Latin  from  script  that  was  small, 
faded,  and  difficult  to  read,  and  the  letters  u,  n,  a,  e,  o, 
and  c  were  easily  mistaken  for  one  another,  with  errores 
maximi,  in  Aberdeen  phrase,  as  the  frequent  result.  Another 
source  of  error  was  the  joining  together  of  words  that  ought 
to  be  separate,  or  the  reverse.  For  example,  Taitt  has  bi 
se  motum  as  three  words,  which  cannot  be  translated  so 
as  to  give  sense;  but  when  the  words  are  joined  together 
(as  it  happens  they  may  be  held  to  be  in  the  MS.  from  which 
he  copied),  and  when  the  o  in  motum  is  made  u  (as  it 


PREFACE  ix 

quite  possibly  is  in  the  original),  then  the  difficulty  ends — 
bisemutum  being  the  Latin  of  bismuth  and  the  word  that 
expresses  the  thought  of  the  writer,  Many  illustrations  of 
this,  and  of  other  such  errors  and  difficulties,  could  be  given. 

It  has  not  been  a  short  task  to  deal  in  this  way  with  the 
Latin  of  Macfarlane's  second  volume,  but  I  have  been  for- 
tunate in  obtaining  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Alexander  Gow,  a 
teacher  in  Edinburgh,  who  had  patience  and  perseverance  as 
well  as  scholarship.  He  has  also  prepared  the  translation,  and 
has  made  it  as  close  a  rendering  of  the  Latin  as  possible,  but 
it  reads  as  clean  English,  with  an  old-world  flavour — very 
different  from  the  work  of  the  anonymous  translator  of  James 
Gordon's  Description  of  both  Towns  of  Aberdeen,  which  was 
printed  by  the  Old  Spalding  Club  (1842). 

LATINISED  PLACE-NAMES. 

Frequently,  perhaps  usually,  the  name  of  a  place  is  Latin- 
ised, by  such  writers  as  the  Gordons,  by  the  addition  to  the 
ordinary  Scottish  name  either  of  us  or  ius,  of  um  or  mm,  or  of 
a  or  la.  Thus  Innerness  becomes  Innemessus  (T.  Gore,  p.  72), 
Edinburg  becomes  Edinburgum,  and  Lorn  becomes  Lorna. 

It  is  difficult  to  tell  why  in  one  case  a,  in  another  us,  and  in 
another  um  is  added  in  order  to  Latinise  the  name  of  a  place. 
Perhaps  the  favoured  addition  is  a,  and  um  follows,  but  us  is  also 
frequent,  especially,  I  think,  in  the  case  of  rivers,  as  Levinus, 
Lidalus,  Irvinus,  Kelvinus,  Kennus,  Taus,  Nessus,  Spaeus. 
Sometimes  a  place-name  is  Latinised  in  two  ways,  as  '  Elgina 
vel  potius  Elginum,1  Speus  or  Spea,  Maius  or  Maia.  There 
seems,  in  short,  to  be  no  rule  in  the  matter. 

To-day's  names  of  places  often  differ  from  those  in  use 
during  the  seventeenth  and  sixteenth  centuries,  and  some- 
times the  difference  is  not  now  known,  so  that  we  cannot 
always  tell  what  were  the  exact  names  thus  Latinised. 

Other  names  of  places  are  Latinised  in  a  very  different  way 
by  some  of  the  writers  of  the  Latin  Descriptions  in  this 


PREFACE 


volume.  They  are  in  a  literal  sense  translated  into  Latin, 
and  it  has  not  always  been  easy  to  translate  them  back  into 
Scottish,  but  in  most  instances  this  has  been  found  possible. 
It  was  necessary  to  make  the  effort,  in  order  to  render  the 
translations  of  the  Accounts  as  complete  as  possible.  So  curious 
are  many  of  these  translations  of  place-names  into  Latin,  that 
I  think  it  may  be  interesting  to  give  a  few  examples : — 


Scottish  Place-Names 
Latinised  by  Translation. 

1.  Albaspinantria,  or 
Antrum  Spinarum 

2.  Albomontium 

3.  Aratri  Agellus 

4.  Arcuagria 

5.  Aularubra 

6.  Aulae  Horti 

7.  Cygnea  domus 

8.  Domosylviae  Novalia 

9.  Ericedomuri 

10.  Juncomontium 

11.  Lanaria 

12.  Lignariorum  domus 

13.  Pulchella 

14.  Sylva  Leporum 

15.  Vallivadum 

16.  Versimuri 


The  same  Place-Names  in 
the  vernacular  of  to-day. 

Hawthornden 

Whitehill 

Plewlands 

Bowland 

Redhall 

Halyards 

Swanston 

Woodhouselee 

Muirhousedykes 

Rashiehill 

Woolmet 

Wrightshouses 

Bonnieton 

Harwood 

Wallyford 

Turniedykes 


The  foregoing  examples  are  chosen  from  the  Description 
of  the  Shire  of  Edinburgh.  Such  translations,  however,  are 
not  rare  in  regard  to  place-names  all  over  Scotland.  For 
example,  Whithorn  is  rendered  in  Latin  as  Candida  Casa,  Mont- 
rose  as  Mons  or  Monte  Rosarum,  and  Newhall  as  Nova  Aula. 

Occasionally,  only  part  of  a  place-name  is  translated  into 
Latin,  that  is,  the  Latin  equivalent  of  that  part  forms  a 


PREFACE  xi 

part  of  the  Latinised  name.     For  example : — Adifontium  for 
Addiewell,  and  Aiostium  for  Eyemouth. 

In  a  small  number  of  instances  the  translation  of  a  place- 
name  is  into  Greek  or  into  a  mixture  of  Latin  and  Greek, 
as  for  example  : — Neobotelia  for  Newbottle,  Dendragatha  for 
Goodtrees  (corrupted  into  Guters),  Neapolis  for  New  Town 
(of  Aberdeen),  and  Neobubilia  for  Newbyres. 

Not  a  few  Scottish  place-names  have  been  thus  translated 
into  Latin  from  Gaelic.  For  instance,  according  to  Christo- 
phorus  Irvinus,  Ilan  na  Aich  becomes  Insula  Equorum,  Ilan 
na  Bann  becomes  Insula  Mulierum,  Ilan  Cam  becomes  Cumulo 
Lapidum  Insula.  One  instance,  worth  noting,  occurs  in 
this  second  volume  of  Macfarlane.  I  think  I  am  correct  in 
saying  that  an  old  name  of  the  Calton  Hill,  or  of  part  of  it,  was 
the  Dhu  Craig — that  is,  it  bore  a  Gaelic  name  meaning  the 
Black  Rock.  This  has  been  Latinised  by  translation,  in  the 
way  I  am  speaking  of,  into  Nigelli  Rupes.  It  should,  of 
course,  have  been  Nigella  Rupes;  and  probably  the  grammati- 
cal error  '  helped  to '  its  retranslation  into  English  as  NielPs 
Craig.  (See  Bannatyne  Club  Miscellany,  vol.  ii.  p.  397,  foot- 
note ;  Grant's  Old  and  New  Edinburgh,  vol.  ii.  p.  101  ;  and 
Mackenzie's  History  of  Scotland,  p.  431.) 

There  are  some  writers  in  Latin  on  topographical  subjects 
who  make  few  changes  on  place-names,  dealing  with  them  as 
indeclinable  words. 

How  MACFARLANE'S  MANUSCRIPT  is  ENTERED  IN  THE 
CATALOGUE  OF  THE  ADVOCATES'  LIBRARY. 

The  description  of  the  Macfarlane  Geographical  Collections 
in  the  Advocates'  Library  detailed  MS.  Catalogue  ('  Histori- 
cal,' p.  236)  is  interesting.  It  runs  as  follows :  '  Geographi- 
cal Collections  relating'  to  Scotland,  containing*  a  particular 


xii  PREFACE 

description  of  shires,  parishes,  burroughs,  etc.,  in  that  kingdom. 
3  vols.  Folio.  A  transcript  by  Macfarlane's  copyist  from 
a,  great  variety  of  materials,  the  most  important  of  which  are 
the  papers  collected  by  Sibbald,  which  formed  part  of  the 
materials  prepared  by  Straloch,  Scotstarvat,  Sibbald,  and  others 
for  their  projected  topographical  account  of  Scotland,  out  of 
which  arose  BlaeiCs  Atlas  of  Scotland.  There  are  also  numerous 
descriptions  of  districts,  parishes,  and  towns  furnished  apparently 
to  Macfarlane  himself  and  chiefly  by  ministers.'1 

The  writer  of  this  entry  in  the  Catalogue  failed  to  have  in 
mind  the  date  of  Blaeu's  Scottish  volume,  namely,  a  first 
edition  in  1654  and  a  second  edition  in  1662,  and  so.it  is  not 
a  correct  description  of  the  Macfarlane  Geographical  Collec- 
tions. It  ignores  Timothy  Pont,  who  was  an  earlier  and 
a  better  surveyor  of  Scotland  and  a  larger  contributor  to 
Blaeu's  Atlas  than  all  the  others  named  in  the  entry,  if  maps 
are  regarded  as  a  contribution.  One  of  those  named,  to  wit 
Sibbald,  contributed  nothing.  He  was  later  than  Straloch, 
Scotstarvet,  and  Blaeu,  and  did  not  work  with  them.  Their 
labours  in  the  mapping  and  description  of  Scotland  were  long 
over  before  Sibbald  issued,  in  1683,  the  Advertisements  in 
Latin  and  English  of  his  projected  Atlas. 

TAITT  AS  A  TRANSCRIBER. 

Perhaps  I  should  say  something  of  the  work  of  John 
Taitt,  Macfarlane's  transcriber.  In  the  first  volume  I  spoke 
of  the  difficulty  of  copying  correctly,  and  in  the  second 
volume  I  was  prepared  to  find  errors  in  Taitfs  transcriptions. 
I  have  taken  occasion,  however,  to  make  a  comparison  between 
the  manuscripts  from  which  he  copied  and  his  transcriptions 
in  regard  to  the  following : — (1)  the  Account  of  the  Lewis, 
by  John  Morisone ;  (2)  the  Anonymous  Account  of  lona  in 
1693;  (3)  the  Account  of  Tyrie,  Gonna,  Colla,  and  Icolumkill, 
by  Jo.  Fraser ;  and  (4)  the  Anonymous  Account  of  Sky ; 


PREFACE  xiii 

which  four  Accounts  follow  each  other  in  the  second  volume, 
and  occupy  pages  210  to  223.  I  found  many  unimportant 
differences,  but  I  also  found  a  few  differences  that  can  scarcely 
be  regarded  as  unimportant.  For  example,  Taitt  omitted 
the  word  'not'  (p.  215);  he  omitted  the  words  4yt  ye' 
(p.  216) ;  he  added  a  full  stop  after  I  as  a  name  of  lona 
(p.  216);  he  copied  what  seems  to  me  to  be  the  word  bath  as 
'  bottle '  (p.  222) ;  and  the  word  springs  he  makes  '  herbys ' 
(p.  223).  Errors,  I  believe,  are  almost  certain  to  occur  in 
transcriptions,  but  perhaps  five  errors  within  a  few  pages,  of 
the  character  of  those  I  have  enumerated,  may  be  regarded  as 
important.  I  do  not  myself  think  that  they  are  much  beyond 
a  reasonable  expectation.  Transcripts  are  far  from  being  of 
the  nature  of  mechanically  produced  facsimiles,  and  it  appears 
to  me  that  this  is  apt  to  be  forgotten.  In  the  originals  of 
the  four  short  Accounts  with  which  I  am  now  dealing,  fairly 
good  and  legible  writing  occurs,  but  there  also  occurs  extremely 
bad  and  illegible  writing,  and  Taitt  had  to  take  the  bad 
with  the  good.  On  the  whole,  this  bit  of  careful  collation 
leads  me  to  regard  Macfarlane's  transcriber  as  about  equal  to 
the  average  at  his  work.  Prolonged  mental  attention,  directed 
through  the  eye  to  the  MS.  being  copied  and  also  to  the 
copying  hand,  is  always  unequally  maintained,  and  moments  or 
minutes  of  fatigue,  leading  to  errors,  keep  occurring  during 
the  time  that  the  work  occupies. 

PROOFS  SENT  FROM  HOLLAND  FOR  CORRECTION. 

It  is  believed  that  Blaeu  sent  to  Gordon  of  Straloch,  for 
revision  and  correction,  Proofs  of  the  descriptive  matter  that  he 
had  supplied  for  the  Atlas,  In  that  case,  probably  the  originals 
would  be  returned.  The  contents,  however,  of  SibbakTs  Topo- 
graphical Notices,  made  up  possibly  of  such  originals,  show 
no  sign  of  the  folding  that  would  have  resulted  from  their 
having  been  enclosures  in  a  letter.  If  they  are  the  veritable 


xiv  PREFACE 

documents  that  went  from  Straloch  to  Holland,  and  if  they 
came  back  to  Aberdeenshire  for  comparison  with  Proofs,  they 
must  have  made  the  journeys  as  a  package  that  involved  no  fold- 
ings.    Ordinary  cargo  ships  were  probably  the  carriers  of  such 
things  at  that  time,  and  they  would  no  doubt  be  made  up 
as  parcels  suitable  for  such  a  mode  of  transmission.     Samuel 
Wallace  writes  to  Straloch  from  Campvere,  in  March  1647,1 
acknowledging  receipt  of  'ane  package  witch   I   directit   to 
Mr.  Jhone  Blaew,1  and  he  adds,  '  Mr.  Blaew  vrittis  vnto  me 
that  he  ...  hes  in  hand  to  print  the  descriptiones  of  sundrie 
places,    quhareof   he    is    myndit   ...   to    send    them    home 
to  your  honor  or  my  lord  Scottistarvet  ...  He  desyres  me 
to  interest  your   honor  ...  to  endeavoir  with  all  possible 
diligence    to    assist    his    porposs   be   sending   vnto    him    all 
quhatsomever  kan  be  gotten,  either  for  supplie  ...  or  illus- 
tratione  tharof,  promising  with  all  occasione  to  send  copies 
of  sutch   as   will    kom    out  of  the    press  .  .   .  for    mending, 
correcting,  &  escapes  .  .   .^     (Escapes  is  a  good  word— worth 
remembering.) 

Little  doubt  remains  as  to  the  coming  of  Proofs  to  Scotland 
for  the  usual  treatment  of  Proofs,  and  these  would  probably 
be  accompanied  by  the  manuscript  originals,  which  last  might 
be  expected  to  remain,  often  or  always,  in  Scotland,  and  so 
form  a  part  of  the  collection  eventually  handed  over  to  Sibbald 
by  the  Parson  of  Rothiemay. .  If  this  view  is  correct,  it  gives 
much  value  to  many  of  the  documents  in  the  Sibbald 
Topographical  Notices. 

It  does  not  follow,  however,  that  everything  that  Sibbald 
eventually  received  from  James  Gordon  had  gone  to  Holland 
and  come  back.  It  only  appears  that  this  is  possibly  true  of 
some  of  it.  Nor  does  it  follow  that  everything  that  Robert 
Gordon  sent  to  Blaeu  either  came  back  to  him  for  revision 
or  found  a  place  in  the  Scottish  volume  of  the  Dutch  Atlas. 


1  See  Old  Spalding  Club  Miscellany,  vol.  i.  p.  54. 


PREFACE  xv 

Macfarlane's  transcriber  to  a  large  extent  chose  pieces  that 
had  found  a  place  in  the  Atlas,  but  he  did  not  confine  him- 
self to  these  ;  and  perhaps  this  is  especially  true  of  the  jottings 
made  by  Pont  which  came  to  Straloch  from  Scotstarvet  with 
Pont's  maps,  as  material  for  Blaeu's  '  First  Topographical 
Survey  of  Scotland.'' 

We  know,  indeed,  that  a  revision  of  Proofs,  and  even  a 
writing  of  new  Descriptions,  went  on  at  Amsterdam.  We 
have  Blaeu's  authority  for  this.  It  was  chiefly  done  by  Sir 
John  Scot,  6  without  papers  and  books/  Blaeu  says  of  Sir 
John  that  he  seemed  to  be  4  a  very  Scotland  in  himself,  and 
to  have  grasped  in  his  mind  the  very  form  of  its  districts."1 
Scot  went  to  Amsterdam  in  1638,  and  assisted  Blaeu  in  the 
descriptive  part  of  his  work — 'writing  or  dictating  descrip- 
tions to  accompany  the  maps.1 

CORRECTIONS  BY  THE  GORDONS. 

With  reference  to  the  correcting  of  the  descriptions  of 
localities  by  the  Gordons,  Blaeu  himself,  in  his  Atlas,  says  of 
the  father  and  son : — '  qui  praeter  correctiones  in  Timothei 
tabulas  etiam  suas  aliquot,  nee  non  descriptiones  quasdam  a 
se,  quasdam  etiam  ab  aliis  factas  adjunxere,'1  and  Straloch 
himself  speaks  of  giving  things  to  the  printer  '  in  a  half- 
finished  state '  (p.  289  of  this  volume). 

Many  of  the  Straloch  documents  in  the  Sibbald  Topo- 
graphical Notices  are  carefully  written  by  Straloch's  own  hand, 
and  it  is  possible  that  some  of  them  are  the  very  documents 
that  he  sent  to  Holland.  Some  appear  in  the  Atlas  almost 
as  exact  copies  of  these  documents,  but  others  show  changes, 
not  however  beyond  what  may  be  regarded  as  changes  that 
Straloch  might  make  in  reading  the  Proofs.  Occasionally  the 
changes  are  sufficient  to  make  it  difficult,  without  a  pains- 


Preface  to  the  Reader,  1654  edition. 


xvi  PREFACE 

taking  comparison,  to  feel  quite  sure  that  Blaeirs  print  can 
be  properly  taken  as  Gordons  Description,  as  we  have  it  in 
his  own  script.  The  changes,  however,  leave  the  Accounts, 
I  believe,  substantially  as  they  were  written.  All  these  un- 
certainties are  to  be  regretted.  They  could  easily  have  been 
prevented  by  signatures,  dates,  and  a  proper  docqueting. 

The  order  in  which  Sir  Robert  Gordon's  Descriptions  and 
Fragments  now  appear  in  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices 
has  been  somewhat  changed,  in  the  transcript  for  Macfarlane. 
The  Sibbald  volume  has  been  rebound,  and  an  altered  and 
somewhat  careless  arrangement  of  its  contents  appears  to  have 
been  then  made.  It  is  possible  that,  when  Taitt  transcribed 
from  the  Collections  for  Macfarlane,  the  volume  had  not  been 
repaired,  and  was  more  or  less  in  a  state  of  confusion,  probably 
due  to  the  fact  that  there  is  no  continuous  pagination  of  the 
Sibbald  Topographical  Notices. 

CONTRIBUTORS  TO  THE  LITERARY  MATTER  OF  BLAKIJ. 

Two  or  three  of  the  Descriptions  in  Blaeu  are  attributed 
to  George  Buchanan,  not  as  having  been  specially  written  to 
accompany  maps,  but  only  as  having  been  extracted  from 
his  works. 

In  a  like  manner  quite  a  considerable  number  of  Descrip- 
tions are  headed  as  '  Ex  Cambdeno,''  and  these  have  sometimes 
Additamenta,  written  avowedly  in  some  cases  by  Sir  Robert 
Gordon,  but  probably  in  most  cases  written  by  Sir  John  Scot. 
Blaeu,  indeed,  says  in  his  Praefatio :  '  Cambdeni  Scoto-tar- 
vatus  multum  multis  in  locis  correxit.' 

One  contribution  to  Blaeu,  not  intended  to  be  the  accom- 
paniment of  any  map,  entitled  De  Provinciis  et  Regiojiibus 
Germaniw  Scotorum  Opera  ad  Fidem  Christianam  Conversis, 
was  sent  to  Scotstarvet  from  Vienna  in  1641  by  a  man  little 
known  to  him,  and  Scotstarvet  sent  it  on  to  Blaeu,  leaving 
him  to  determine  whether  it  should  or  should  not  be  inserted 


PREFACE  xvii 

in  the  Atlas.  The  writer  was  Robert  Strachan  of  Monte 
Rosarum,  alias  '  P.  Bonifacius  ordinis  S.  Benedict!.''  This 
contribution  may  be  regarded  as  without  any  bearing  on  the 
topography  of  Scotland,  but  it  contains  the  statement  that 
S.  Florcntim  founded  a  monastery  at  Strasburgh,  c.  665, 
and  thus  becomes  interesting,  because  a  Saint  Florentius 
appears  to  have  been  buried  at  Kirkmedan  in  Stoney- 
kirk,  as  shown  by  inscribed  monuments  there,  which  have 
attracted  much  attention  both  in  this  country  and  on  the 
Continent. 

Gulielmus  Forbes,  Ecclesiae  Ennervicensis  Pastor,  writes  a 
Descriptio  Lothianas  for  Blaeu,  and  John  Maclellan,  without 
any  designation,  writes  a  Gallovidicc  Descriptio,  largely  geogra- 
phical in  its  character,  but  turning  aside  to  say :  '  Nusquam 
in  Scotia  praestantiores  equi,  sed  minoris  statura?,  quos 
Galloway-nages  vocant ' — thus  giving  us  an  early  reference  to 
the  Galloway  nag. 

Copies  of  the  first,  or  1654,  edition  of  Blaeu  are  not  all 
alike.  The  Preface,  for  instance,  of  the  interesting  copy 
sent  to  Straloch  by  Blaeu,  now  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  C.  G. 
Cash,  is  longer  than  that  in  the  copies  which  are  in  the 
Libraries  of  the  Society  of  Antiquaries  and  the  Faculty  of 
Advocates,  and  in  the  longer  Preface  mention  is  made  of 
Boner,  Lauder,  and  Spang  as  contributors  to  the  literary 
matter  of  the  volume,  but  nothing  has  been  found,  either  in 
the  second  Macfarlane  volume  or  in  the  Sibbald  Collections, 
that  can  properly  be  attributed  to  any  of  these  men. 

There  are  Descriptions  without  attribution  to  any  author, 
but  an  examination  of  the  Sibbald  Collections  has  shown  that 
of  many  of  these  either  Pont  or  one  of  the  Gordons  must  be 
regarded  as  the  writer. 

It  thus  appears  that  the  '  First  Topographical  Survey  of 
Scotland,'1  as  given  in  Blaeu's  Scottish  volume,  is  almost,  as 
regards  its  literature,  the  work  of  the  same  quartet  of  Scots- 
men— Timothy  Pont,  Robert  Gordon  of  Straloch,  James 

b 


xviii  PREFACE 

Gordon  of  Hothiemay,  and  Sir  John  Scot  of  Scotstarvet — as 
are  credited  with  the  work  of  the  First  Survey  in  regard 
to  its  mapping.  Perhaps  David  Buchanan  and  Sir  Robert 
Gordon  of  Gordonstoun  should  be  added  to  those  who 
wrote  important  Descriptions  for  this  First  Survey.  Nearly 
all  of  what  these  six  men  wrote,  or  gathered,  or  compiled, 
to  illustrate  the  First  Survey  appears  in  Latin  in  Blaeu, 
and  makes  up  a  considerable  part  of  the  second  volume 
of  Macfarlane's  Collections,  having  been  copied  by  Mac- 
farlane's transcriber  from  the  existing  originals,  if  I  may 
so  call  them,  in  the  Sibbald  Collections — often  originals, 
however,  in  the  sense  only  of  having  been  prepared  for 
Blaeu's  use. 

The  originals  of  Font's  map-work  as  a  surveyor  of  Scot- 
land still  exist  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  are  among  the 
treasures  of  the  Advocates'  Library.  They  furnish  a  very 
large  part  of  the  Scottish  volume  of  Blaeu's  great  Atlas, 
which  is  the  record,  as  Mr.  C.  G.  Cash  says,  of  '  the  First 
Topographical  Survey  of  Scotland.'  The  results  of  the  re- 
searches by  Mr.  Cash  are  given  in  a  paper  of  much  value  in 
The  Scottish  Geographical  Magazine  for  August  1901.  In 
that  paper  attention  is  chiefly  directed  to  the  maps,  but  the 
editing  of  this  second  volume  of  the  Macfarlane  Collections 
turns  attention  mainly  to  the  literary  part  of  the  Scottish 
volume  of  Blaeu,  and  in  making  an  examination  of  the 
Descriptions  that  accompany  the  maps  I  have  been  for- 
tunate in  obtaining  assistance  from  Mr.  Cash. 

Sir  John  Scot  of  Scotstarvet  has  perhaps  been  credited  with 
having  made  larger  literary  contributions  to  Blaeu's  Scottish 
volume  than  he  actually  made.  What  Blaeu  says  of  the 
assistance  he  gave  may  mean  little  more  than  that  Scot  was 
diligent  and  useful  in  revising  and  correcting  what  was  sent 
from  Aberdeen.  It  may  not  mean  that  Scot  himself  wrote 
full  and  extended  Descriptions  to  accompany  the  maps.  In- 
deed there  is  no  evidence  that  he  did  this.  He  was  spoken 


PREFACE  xix 

of  as  very  old  at  the  time.  Samuel  Wallace  in  a  letter 
to  Gordon  of  Straloch,  March  1647,  speaks  of  Scotstarvet 
(in  old  Scots  that  would  have  delighted  Robert  Louis 
Stevenson),  as  'a  man  kom  to  grytte  aidge,'1  and  he  rather 
unfeelingly  adds,  with  regard  to  Straloch  himself, — 'so  is 
your  honor ' — though  Straloch  at  the  time  was  both  compiling 
maps  and  writing  long  Descriptions  of  the  localities  to  which  the 
maps  referred.  Whatever  Sir  John  Scot  did  for  Blaeu,  it  does 
not  appear,  I  think,  that  he  composed  any  of  the  Descriptions 
contained  in  Macfarlane's  second  volume. 


WHAT  SIBBALD  RECEIVED  FROM  JAMES  GORDON. 

According  to  Gough,  when  Sibbald  projected  a  New  Atlas 
and  Description  of  Scotland,  he  received  from  James  Gordon 
'  all  the  material,  cartographical  and  other,  that  remained 
in  his  hands/  Sibbald  advertised  his  project  in  1683  and 
James  Gordon  died  in  1686.  When  Sibbald  announced  his 
purpose  and  gave  a  list  of  the  materials  for  the  work  that 
had  then  reached  him,  much  that  he  eventually  received  from 
Gordon  does  not  appear  in  that  list.  Therefore,  it  is  almost 
certain  that  the  gift  of  material  from  the  Parson  of  Rothie- 
may  must  have  reached  Sibbald  not  long  before  the  Parson's 
death,  that  is,  somewhere  between  1683  and  1686. 

In  a  letter  to  Wodrow  of  llth  November  1707,  Sibbald 
says :  '  I  have  all  the  originall  mapps  and  surveys  and 
descriptions  of  Mr.  Pont,  the  Gordons  and  others,  who  have 
laboured  that  way,  and  severall  mapps  never  printed.12  It 
appears  from  this  that  originals  as  well  as  copies  came  into 
Sibbald's  hands,  but  the  original  Descriptions,  so  far  as  I  have 
discovered,  do  not  all  find  a  place  in  the  Sibbald  Collections. 


1  Old  Spalding  Club  Miscellany,  i.  54. 

2  [Maidment],  Remains  of  Sir  Robert  Sibbald,  8vo,  Edinburgh,  1837,  p.  36. 


xx  PREFACE 

It  would  be  of  great  interest  and  value  to  have  Font's  Notes 
and  Descriptions  just  as  he  wrote  them,  but  what  we  have 
in  Macfarlane  is  a  copy  of  a  copy  with  alterations,  yet  Font's 
Notes  in  his  own  script  appear  to  have  been  in  Sibbald's 
possession.  We  have  his  own  authority  for  this  statement. 
He  says  at  p.  17  of  his  Repertory  of  MSS. : — 4  Many  of  his 
[Font's]  MS.  Notes  Autograph  are  still  preserved,  and  most  of 
them  were  transcribed  by  Mr.  James  Gordon  person  [sic]  of 
Rothemay  and  are  still  preserved.  I  have  both  thos  done  by 
Mr.  Timothy  and  the  parson  of  Rothemay/ 

It  is  of  importance  in  this  connection  to  know  that  Robert 
Gordon  was  personally  acquainted  with  Pont.  More  than 
once  he  says, '  Timothy  Pont  told  me,1  and,  in  a  letter  from 
Straloch  to  Sir  John  Scot  in  Blaeu's  Atlas,  he  says,  '  As  he 
[Pont]  used  to  tell  me.1 

The  Macfarlane  Geographical  Collections  are  frequently 
quoted  in  topographical  works  of  authority,  such,  for  example, 
as  the  Origines  Parochiales — the  quotation  being  in  this  form  : 
— '  A  writer  in  Macfarlane  says.1  What  writer  is  not  told. 


SMALL  HELP  TO  THE  GORDONS  FROM  SCOTTISH  MINISTERS. 

Notwithstanding  an  Order  of  Assembly,  only  four  Scottish 
Ministers  seem  to  have  furnished  Descriptions  to  Sir  Robert 
Gordon.  The  names  of  these  four  ministers  were  McLellan, 
Boner,  Lauder  and  Spang.  A  search  in  Hew  Scott's  Fasti 
makes  it  certain  that  McLellan  was  John  McLellan,  who 
became  minister  of  Kirkcudbright  in  1638,  and  died  in  1650. 
Hew  Scott  knew  that  he  wrote  a  Description  of  Galloway  in 
Latin  for  Blaeu's  Atlas.  (See  Fasti,  i.  688-9.)  A  James  Bonar 
was  the  minister  of  Maybole,  1608  to  1651,  and  is  described 
as  '  a  person  of  very  great  learning.'  (See  Fasti,  ii.  125.) 
Spang  is  no  doubt  William  Spang,  who  was  Minister  of  the 


PREFACE  xxi 

Scottish  Church  at  Campvere  from  1641  to  1652,  and  after- 
wards at  Middleburg  in  Zealand,  where  he  died  in  1664. 
(See  Letters  and  Journals  of  Robert  Baillie,  Principal  of  the 
University  of  Glasgow,  Bannatyne  Club,  1841-2.)  Spang 
was  Robert  Baillie's  cousin.  There  are  five  ministers  of  the 
name  of  Lauder  that  would  suit  as  regards  date,  but  which 
of  these  five  wrote  for  Robert  Gordon  I  do  not  know. 


THE  SECOND  VOLUME  TELLS  LITTLE  OF  SOCIAL  LIFE  IN 
SCOTLAND. 

The  Macfarlane  Collections  are  called  Geographical,  and  they 
consist  largely  of  such  matter  as  Map-makers  desire.  This 
explains  why  they  deal  so  little  with  the  Social  Life  of  the 
Country.  But  there  are  a  few  things  in  them  of  that 
character.  This  is  true  even  of  the  Second  Volume,  though 
it  is  largely  written  by  persons  actually  engaged  in  compiling 
maps.  For  instance  we  hear  in  it : — Of  the  resorting  of  the 
County  gentry  to  Mayboll  and  Keith  in  winter  for  indoor 
and  outdoor  amusements ;  of  games  of  Football,  Golf,  and 
6  Byasse  Bowls';  of  a  Court  of  Jurisdiction  in  the  open  air 
at  Girvan  ;  of  Parish  Churches  built  of  wood  and  thatched 
with  heather;  of  the  highly  decorated  Church  Pew  of  the 
Laird  ;  of  the  effective  use  '  in  fighting '  of  the  Bow  and  Arrow  ; 
of  the  great  prevalence  of  Physic  Wells ;  of  a  School  of  repute 
at  Stornoway  ;  of  the  frequency  of  marriages  on  Tuesdays  and 
Thursdays;  of  the  sale  of  wine,  ale,  and  aquavitae  in  church 
buildings ;  of  drunkenness  and  lewdness  at  Fairs ;  of  the 
abounding  of  superstitions,  gross  but  not  cruel ;  of  a  super- 
natural conception ;  of  the  payment  of  rents  in  kind ;  of 
ploughing  with  eight  or  ten  oxen ;  of  a  statue  in  wood  of  St. 
McBreck  [sic]  at  Ferrietoun  ;  of  transporting  a  thief  to  the 
Isles  of  S.  Flannan  ;  of  Rorie  McNeiirs  being  driven  to  Ireland, 
where  he  '  took  up  a  spreath,  and  returned  home.'1 


xxii  PREFACE 

GROUPING  OF  CONTRIBUTIONS. 

In  the  following  set  of  Lists,  I  group  the  Descriptions, 
Discourses,  etc.,  that  occur  in  this  volume,  according  to  some 
common  character. 

(a)  DESCRIPTIONS,  DISCOURSES,  ETC.,  THE  WRITERS 

OF    WHICH    ARE    NAMED. 

Mr.  Abercrummie,  Minister  at  Minibole.     (P.  1.) 

Mr.  [John]  Ouchterlony,  of  Guinde.     (P.  21.) 

Mr.  Andrew  Symson,  Minister  at  Kirkinner.     (P.  51.) 

Alexander  Garden  of  Troup.     (P.  133.) 

John  Morisone.     (P.  210.) 

Jo.  Eraser,  Dean  of  the  Isles.     (P.  217.) 

James  Gordon,  Parson  of  Rothiemay.     (P.  469.) 

Gordon  of  Straloch.     (P.  355.) 

Glenurquhay.     (P.  537.) 

Mr.  D.  Drummond.     (P.  571.) 

Gentlemen  of  Lennox  and  Stirlingshire,  1644.     (P.  578.) 

Timothy  Pont.     (P.  369  and  P.  582.) 

Cambden.     (P.  371.) 

Bede.     (P.  312.) 

(b)  DESCRIPTIONS,  DISCOURSES,  ETC.,  THAT  ARE  GIVEN  ANONY- 
MOUSLY,  THOUGH   THEIR    AUTHORS   ARE    KNOWN. 

I  or  lona— by  Jo.  Eraser.     (P.  216.) 
Sky— by  Macmartin.     (P.  219.) 
Aberdeen  and  Banff— by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  224.) 
Murray— by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  306.) 
Provinces  of  Scotland — by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  311.) 
Extracts  from  Bede— by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  312.) 
Antiquity  of  Scots  and  their  coming  into  Britain — by  Robert 
Gordon.     (P.  327.) 


PREFACE  xxiii 

Roman  Walls— by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  336.) 

Origin  of  Saxon  Tongue — by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  342.) 

Thule— by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  351.) 

Old  Scotland— by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  355.) 

Roman  Defensive  Walls — by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  369.) 

Our  Ancestors— by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  376.) 

Coining  of  the  Scots  to  Britain— by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  380.) 

Derivation  of  Scottish  Name,  and  Cannibalism  [in  Scotland] — 

by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  385.) 
Government  of  Scotland  before  the  late  troubles — by  Robert 

Gordon.     (P.  391.) 
Fife— by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  402.) 

Caithness,  Strathnaver,  etc. — by  Robert  Gordon.     (P.  412.) 
Sutherland — by  Sir  R.  Gordon  of  Gordonstoun.     (P.  436.) 
Highlands  and  Isles — by  James  Gordon.     (P.  509.) 
Shire  and  City  of  Edinburgh — by  David  Buchanan.    (P.  614.) 


(c)  ANONYMOUS  DESCRIPTIONS  WITH  NO  CLUE  TO  THE  NAMES  OF 
THE  AUTHORS. 

Ane  Description  of  Certaine  Pairts  of  the  Highlands  of 
Scotland.  (Sibbald  says  in  his  Repertory  of  Manuscripts, 
p.  22,  that  this  was  a  communication  to  Robert  Gordon, 
and  Bishop  Nicholson  says  that  it  was  '  by  a  Native."*) 
(P.  144.) 

A  Short  Description  of  Dumbarton  from  loose  sheets  un- 
bound, dated  of  Loch  lowmond,  with  Addenda.  (Parts  of 
this  correspond  somewhat  closely  to  parts  of  a  Description 
of  Dumbarton  by  Mr.  Crawfurd,  brother  of  Carsburn  Craw- 
furd,  in  Balfour's  Collection  of  the  Shires,  Advocates'  Library 
(32.  2.  27).  (P.  192.) 

A  Description  of  Renfrewshire  from  some  loose  unbound 
sheets.  (Nothing  has  been  found  as  to  the  authorship  or 
date  of  this  Description.)  (P.  201.) 


xxiv  PREFACE 

(d)  DESCRIPTIONS  THE  DATES  OF  WHICH  ARE  GIVEN. 

Garden  of  Troup's  Buchan.    (P.  133.)  .  .         May  1683 

A  short  Description  of  I  or  lona.     (P.  216.)  .         1693 

Stirlingshire  and  Lennox  Gentlemen.  (P.  578.)  May  1644 
Divers  Distances.  (P.  604  and  P.  606.)  Jany.  and  Feb.  1646 
Glenurquhay.  (P.  537.)  .  .  June  1644 


(e)  DESCRIPTION  THE  DATE  OF  WHICH,  THOUGH  NOT  GIVEN, 

IS    DEFINITELY    KNOWN. 

Galloway,  by  Andrew  Symson.     (P.  51.)  1684  and  1692 


(/)  DESCRIPTIONS  THE  DATES  OF  WHICH,  THOUGH  NOT  GIVEN, 

ARE    APPROXIMATELY    KNOWN. 

Those:— by  Timothy  Pont,         .             .  .  1583  to  1601 

„        by  Sir  Robert  Gordon  of  Straloch,  .  1608  to  1661 
„        by  Sir  Robert  Gordon  of  Gordonstoim,     Before  1654 

„        by  James  Gordon  of  Rothiemay,  .       1641-1654 

„        by  David  Buchanan,     .  .       1647-1652 

„        by  John  Morisone,        .             .  .       1678-1688 

„        by  Mr.  Abercrummie,   .             .  .       1683-1722 

by  Mr.  Ochterlonie,       .  .       1683-1722 


(g)  DESCRIPTIONS  AND  DISCOURSES  THAT  APPEAR  IN  THE  SCOTTISH 
VOLUME  OF  BLAEU'S  ATLAS. 

Aberdeen  and  Banff.    (P.  224.)    (In  second  edition  of  Blaeu.) 
Antiquity  of  Scots  in  Britain.     (P.  327.) 

Roman  Walls.     (P.  336.)  Wall  of  Adrian.     (P.  368.) 

Origin  of  Saxon  Tongue.     (P.  342.)  Fife.     (P.  402.) 

Thule.     (P.  351.)          Caithness,  Ross,  Sutherland.     (P.  412.) 
Old  Scotland.     (P.  355.) 


PREFACE  xxv 


(h)  DESCRIPTIONS  PRINTED  ELSEWHERE  THAN  IN  BLAEU'S 
SCOTTISH  VOLUME. 

Abercrummie's  Carrick,  in  Pitcairn's  Kennedy  Families,  1830, 

and  in  Robertson's  Historic  Ayrshire,  1891. 
Ouchterlony's  Forfar,  in  the  Spottiswoode  Miscellany,  vol.  i. 

p.  811. 
Troup's  Buchan,  in  Collections  on  Shires  of  Aberdeen  and  Banff, 

Old  Spalding  Club,  1843,  p.  99. 
Symson's    Galloway,    separately,    8°,    Edin.,    1823,   and    in 

the    History    of  Galloway,   2    vols.,   8°,   Kirkcudbright, 

1841. 

Morisone's  Lewis,  in  the  Spottiswoode  Miscellany,  vol.  ii.  p.  337. 
Eraser's  I  or  lona,  in  do.  do.  p.  345. 

Macmartin's  Skye,  in  do.  do.  p.  347. 

Isles  of  Tiree,  etc.,  in  do.  do.  p.  343. 

Kearera,  Cola,  etc.,  in  do.  do.  p.  351. 

Aberdeen  and  Banff,  Old  Spalding  Club  Collections,  1843. 
Buchanan's  Edinburgh  City,  in  the  Miscellany  of  the  Banna- 

tyne  Club,  and  separately  translated  into  French. 
James  Gordon's  Two  Cities   of  Aberdeen,  as    a  volume    of 

the  Old  Spalding  Club,  1842,  in  English. 

(i)  DESCRIPTIONS,  DISCOURSES,  ETC.,  BELIEVED  TO  BE  PRINTED  FOR 

THE  FIRST  TIME  IN  THIS  VOLUME. 

Highlands  of  Scotland.     (In  part,  if  not  in  whole.)     (P.  144.) 

Dumbartonshire.     (P.  192.) 

Renfrewshire.     (P.  201.) 

Murray.     (P.  306.) 

Provinces  and  Countreys  of  Scotland.     (P.  311.) 

Roman  Defensive  Lines.     (P.  336.) 

Coming  of  the  Scots  to  Britain.     (P.  380.) 

Scottish  Name,  and  Cannibalism.     (P.  385.) 


xxvi  PREFACE 

Government  of  Scotland  before  Troubles.     (P.  391.) 
Old  and  New  Aberdeen.     (In  Latin,  and  with  a  new  transla- 
tion into  English.)     (P.  469.) 
Highlands  and  Isles.     (In  large  part.)     (P.  509.) 
Shire  of  Edinburgh.     (P.  614.) 

REMARKS  ON  SEPARATE  DESCRIITIONS. 

All  I  have  said  up  to  this  point  has  reference  to  the 
second  volume  of  the  Macfarlane  Collections  as  a  whole.  I 
desire  now  to  say  something  separately  about  the  different 
descriptions  that  go  to  make  up  the  volume.  Sometimes  it 
will  be  convenient  to  treat  these  in  groups,  but  in  most  cases 
it  will  be  an  advantage  to  treat  them  individually.  I  shall 
give  such  facts  regarding  them  as  have  come  to  my  know- 
ledge, but  I  shall  also  say  some  things  about  them  that 
seem  to  me  to  be  true,  though  they  are  really  still  in  the 
region  of  probabilities. 

CARRICK.     (P.  1.) 

6  A  Description  of  Carrict  by  Mr.  Abercrummie  Minister  at 
Minibole,"1  begins  the  second  volume,  and  is  without  date. 
Louis  Stevenson  calls  the  author  '  the  inimitable  Aber- 
crummie,' says  that  the  description  of  the  village  of  May- 
bole  is  '  mighty  nicely  written/  and  gives  a  somewhat  long 
quotation.1 

Abercrummie''s  account  of  Carrick  and  its  nine  parishes 
could  not  receive  editorial  change  without  injury.  It  is 
given  ad  long-urn  in  Sibbald's  Topographical  AW/Vr-v,  probably 
in  Abercrummie's  own  handwriting,  and  from  this  it  was  no 
doubt  copied  for  Macfarlane.  It  was  written  for  Sibbald, 
and  of  course  is  not  in  Blaeu.  Its  date  lies  somewhere 


1  Essays  of  Travel,  8vo,  London,  1905,  pp.   136-139.     See  also  Hew  Scott's 
Fasti  Ecclesice  Scoticancc,  under  '  Maybole,'  Part  iii. 


PREFACE  xxvii 

between    1683   and    1722.      Mr.    Abercrummie    became    the 
minister  of  the  parish  in  1670,  and  died  there  in  1722. 

Robert  Pitcairn  gives  this  Description  at  length  in  his 
Families  of  the  Name  of  Kennedy,  4°,  Edin.,  1830,  p.  161 ;  and 
it  also  appears  in  William  Robertson's  Historic  Ayrshire, 
sm.  4°,  Edin.,  1891,  p.  83. 

FORFAU.     (P.  21.) 

The  second  contribution  to  this  volume  has  the  following 
heading  :  4  Information  for  Sir  Robert  Sibbald  anent  the  Shyre 
of  Forfar  by  Mr.  [John]  Ouchterlony  of  Guinde.1 

It  appears  in  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices,  from  which 
Taitt  copied  it  into  the  Macfaiiane  Collections.  It  is  printed 
in  volume  i.  of  the  Spottiswoode  Miscellany,  and  also 
separately,  as  a  private  print,  with  plates,  n.d. 

It  gives  Descriptions  of  fifty-five  parishes,  and  these  are  well 
written  as  compared  with  many  of  the  Descriptions  in  the 
first  volume.  Bishop  Nicolson  speaks  of  Ouchterlony  as  '  an 
ingenious  Gentleman  of  that  Countrey,' l  namely  Forfarshire. 

Its  date  is  probably  between  1683  and  1722.  Being 
written  for  Sibbald,  it  could  not  appear  in  Blaeu. 

GALLOWAY.     (P.  51.) 

The  third  contribution  has  this  heading :  '  A  Large 
Description  of  Galloway  by  the  parishes  in  it,  by  Mr. 
Andrew  Symson '  (p.  51),  and  it  is  followed  by  '  Answers  to 
Queries  concerning  Galloway1  (p.  99),  forming  together  one 
Description. 

It  contains  Accounts  of  forty-four  parishes.  It  was  written 
for  Sibbald,  and  therefore  is  not  in  Blaeu.  The  original 
manuscript  is  in  the  Advocates'  Library  (31.7.17),  and  is 
in  Symson's  own  script.  From  this  Macfarlane's  transcriber 
copied. 


1  Nicolson,  Scottish  Historical  Library  >  1702,  p.  20. 


xxviii  PREFACE 

Symson  was  a  Curate  of  the  Scottish  Episcopal  Church  and 
Minister  of  the  parish  of  Kirkinner.  He  speaks  of  his  lot 
there  as  having  been  '  cast  in  a  very  pleasant  place/  After 
losing  his  incumbency,  he  became  a  printer  in  Edinburgh.  He 
was  a  man  of  scholarship  in  various  directions.  Bishop 
Nicolson  calls  him  '  a  learned  Episcopal  divine.' l 

His  Description  of  Galloway  was  completed  in  1684,  while 
he  was  still  in  Kirkinner.  It  was  afterwards,  in  1692,  revised 
and  enlarged  by  him,  when  residing  at  Dalclathick  in 
Glenartney. 

The  Description  has  already  been  separately  printed  (8vo, 
Edinburgh,  1823),  under  the  title  of  A  large  Description  of 
Galloway  By  Andrew  Symson  Minister  of  Kirkinner,  1684. 
I  believe  that  it  was  brought  out  under  the  editorship 
of  Thomas  Maitland  of  Dundrennan.  The  Description  was 
reprinted  at  the  end  of  the  second  volume  of  The  History  of 
Galloway,  published  by  J.  Nicolson,  Kirkcudbright,  in  1841. 

In  the  introductory  matter  to  volume  i.,  I  quoted  some 
remarks  by  Andrew  Symson  on  criticisms  of  the  spelling  and 
punctuation  in  a  piece  of  verse  written  by  him  and  issued 
from  his  own  printing  house.  In  these  remarks  he  tried  to 
explain  and  justify  the  peculiarities  which  had  then  attracted 
criticism.  It  is  interesting  and  curious,  therefore,  to  h'nd  him 
in  his  account  of  Galloway  referring  to  the  erroneous  spelling 
of  Timothy  Pont,  as,  for  example,  to  his  joining  Gray-mares- 
tail  and  Saddle-loup  and  making  it  the  name  of  one  place — 
Gray  Mearstail  of  the  Sadillowip— whereas  the  first  is  the  name 
of  the  water  running  down  betwixt  two  rocks  and  resembling 
'  the  tail  of  a  gray  horse,"  while  the  Saddle-loup  is  the  name 
of  a  rock  hard  by,  on  which  riders  must  leap  out  of  the  saddle 
for  fear  of  falling  off' their  horses.2 

With   further   reference  to  spelling,  Symson   says  that  '  in 

1  Nicolson's  Scottish  Historical  Library,  1702,  p.  22. 
-  Symson's  Large  Description  of  Galloway,  1823,  p.  86. 


PREFACE  xxix 

Maps  it  is  hardly  possible  to  be  exact,  especially  when  we 
must  of  necessitie  make  use  of  information  which  we  reccave 
from  severall  hands,  and  therefore  these  papers  upon  the  same 
account  being  liable  to  mistakes,  the  Reader  will,  I  hope,  be 
inclineable  to  pass  them  by,  they  being  almost  unavoidable/ 
But  this  appeal  to  have  spellings  by  himself  overlooked,  does 
not  prevent  him  a  little  further  on  from  blaming  Speed  for 
miscalling  the  Loch  of  Luce  in  his  maps  the  Loch  Lowys.^ 

The  spelling  of  the  same  name  or  word  in  various  ways 
prevails  in  the  second  as  it  did  in  the  first  volume.  This  is 
difficult  of  explanation,  especially  as  it  occurs  among  men  of 
high  culture.  Even  the  very  learned  Robert  Baillie,  Principal 
of  Glasgow  University,  '  seems  at  no  period  of  his  life  to  have 
had  a  fixed  mode  of  writing  his  own  name." 

A  GeneraU  Description  of  the  Steivartrie  of  Kirkcudbright  and 
Of  the  Abbayes,  Priories,  mid  Nitnries  within  the  Stewartrie 
of  Kirkcudbright  are  in  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices, 
but  with  no  indication  of  authorship.  The  difference  of  script 
points  to  their  not  being  the  work  of  Symson.  They  are 
given  as  appendices  to  Symson's  Large  Description  of  Gallo- 
way, 1823.  It  is  not  clear  whether  they  were  printed  in  the 
1823  volume  from  the  Sibbald  Collections  or  from  the  Mac- 
farlane  Collections,  but  there  is  some  reason  to  think  that  both 
collections  were  used. 

COAST  OF  BUCHAN.     (P.  133.) 

The  contribution  by  Alexander  Garden  of  Trotip  On  the 
Northside  of  the  Coast  of  Buchan  has  a  character  of  its  own. 
It  deals  largely  with  sea  birds  and  land  birds,  with  white  fish 
and  shell  fish,  with  rocks  and  soils,  with  seals  and  whales,  with 
manures  and  crops. 

It  is  a  dated  Description — May  1683.  It  was  written  for 
Sir  Robert  Sibbald,  is  therefore  not  in  Blaeu,  and  was  copied 

1  Symson,  op.  cit.,  p.  91. 


xxx  PREFACE 

by  Taitt  out  of  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices,  where  it 
occurs  probably  in  Garden's  script. 

In  the  same  volume,  and  also  in  Garden  of  Troup's  script, 
there  is  a  copy  of  Stralocirs  description  of  Aberdeen  and 
Banff  avowedly  taken  from  Blaeu.  It  is  difficult  to  see  why 
Troup  took  the  trouble  to  copy  an  Account  that  could  easily 
be  found  printed  in  Blaeu,  and  a  further  difficulty  to  see  why 
it  was  sent  to  Sibbald,  who,  of  course,  could  find  it  in  Blaeu, 
which  we  know  was  in  his  hands. 

Garden  of  Troup's  Northside  of  the  Coast  of  Buchan  was 
printed  in  extenso  in  the  Collections  on  the  Shires  of  Aberdeen 
and  Banff  of  the  Old  Spalding  Club,  1843,  pp.  99-107,  with 
Joseph  Robertson  as  editor.  Robertson  states  that  he  copied 
it  from  the  Sibbald  Collections  in  the  Advocates1  Library. 


AXE  DESCRIFHONE  OF  CERTAINE  PAIRTS  OF  THE  HIGHLANDS  OF 
SCOTLAND.     (P.  144.) 

COWELL,  INVERARAY,  LOGHFYNE,  LOGHOW,  KNAP-DAL,  TERBERT,  LORNE, 
KILMOIRE,  MUCARNE,  KILLESPICK,  BEANDIRLOGH,  APPIN,  IONA, 
LISMOR,  DURGOURE,  GLENCONE,  LOCHLEVIN,  BEANEVIES,  INNER- 
LOGHIE,  LOGHYELD,  LOQUHABER,  KILMALIE,  ARDGOURE,  KENGEAR- 
LOCH,  DUARD,  MORVEN,  SUINEORD,  ARDNAMURQUHEN,  MUYDORT, 
ARRYSAIG,  KNOIDART,  GLENGAIRIE,  ABIRTARFF,  GLENMORIESTOUNE,, 
URQUHATTAN,  INVERNESS,,  STRANEARNE,  BADENOCH,  KNODEARD, 
COLLA,  MUCK,  EIGG,  RUM,  CAINNA,  BARRAY,  BEARNERA,  WIST, 
HARIE,  SKYE,  LEWIS,  GLASRIE,  KINTYRE,  ILLA,  TEXA,  JURA. 


No  authorship  of  these  Descriptions  is  given,  nor  is  any 
date.  SibbaWs  Repertory,  p.  22,  suggests  that  they  were  pre- 
pared for  Sir  Robert  Gordon  (Bishop  Nicolson,  Scot.  Hist.  Lib., 
p.  5,  says  '  by  a  native  '),  and  we  know  that  they  were  passed 
on  to  Sibbald  by  James  Gordon.  It  is  possible  that  they 
were  utilised  in  Blaeu,  but  they  do  not  appear  there  ad 


PREFACE  xxxi 

longum.     The  date  is  uncertain,  but  it  probably  lies  some- 
where about  1630. 

There  is  a  puzzling  similarity  between  some  of  these  Descrip- 
tions, and  the  shorter  Accounts  of  the  same  places  in  the 
Noates  and  Observations  of  Dyvers  parts  of  the  Hielands  and 
Isles  of  Scotland,  p.  509.  Sometimes  the  similarity  is  so  great 
as  to  lead  to  the  feeling  that  the  shorter  Descriptions  are 
mere  abridgements  of  the  longer. 

DUNBARTON.       (P.  192.) 

The  original  of  this  Description  has  not  been  discovered, 
but  parts  of  it  correspond  closely  to  parts  of  a  Description  of 
Dumbarton  by  Mr.  Crawfurd,  brother  of  Carsburn  Crawfurd, 
in  Balfour's  Collection  of  the  Shires  in  the  Advocates'  Library. 

RENFREWSHIRE.     (P.  201.) 

Nothing  is  known  of  the  authorship  or  date  of  this  Descrip- 
tion. Two  anonymous  Descriptions  of  the  same  County, 
attributed  to  Hamilton  of  Wishaw  and  Principal  Dunlop, 
were  printed  by  the  Maitland  Club  in  1831. 

THE  LEWIS.     (P.  210.) 

John  Morisone,  who  writes  the  Description  of  the  Lewis  and 
calls  himself  'Indweller  there,1  was  probably,  according  to 
Captain  F.  W.  L.  Thomas,  R.N.  (Proc.  Soc.  of  Antiq.  Scot., 
vol.  xii.  p.  504),  the  Rev.  John  Morrison,  sometime  minister 
of  Urray,  son  of  John  Morrison  of  Bragir  and  father  of  the 
Rev.  John  Morrison,  minister  of  Petty. 

From  internal  evidence  the  Description  appears  to  have  been 
written  after  1678  and  before  1688. 

4  John  Morison  of  Bragir '  was  known  to  Martin,  and  is 
mentioned  at  pp.  28,  315,  and  316  of  his  Western  Islands  of 
Scotland.  He  is  called  by  Martin  '  a  person  of  unquestion- 
able sincerity  and  reputation,'  and  is  said  to  have  possessed 


xxxii  PREFACE 

'Ladies  modesty,  Bishops  gravity,  Lawyers  eloquence,  and 
Captains  conduct '  (Proc.  Soc.  Antiq.  Scot.,  xii.  527).  The 
'  Indweller '  was  thus  a  man  of  a  good  and  cultured  stock. 

James  Maidment,  with  some  editing,  printed  Morisone's 
Description  of  the  Lewis  in  vol.  ii.  p.  341  of  the  Spottis- 
woode  Miscellany. 

The  Morrison  who  wrote  the  Traditions  of  the  Western  Isles 
was  probably  a  descendant  of  the  '  Indweller.'  His  name 
was  Donald,  and  he  was  a  cooper  at  Stornoway.  He  was 
born  in  1787,  and  died  in  1824.  Part  of  his  Traditions 
has  been  lost.  What  remains,  still  in  manuscript,  is  in  my 
possession. 

John  Morisone's  account  of  the  Lewis  is  in  Sibbald's  Topo- 
graphical Notices,  possibly  in  Morisone's  own  handwriting. 
Sibbald  says  that  it  was  obtained  for  him  by  'Mr.  Colin 
Mackenzie,  brother  to  the  Earl  of  Seaforth/  As  the  date  lies 
between  1678  and  1688,  it  could  not  appear  in  Blaeu. 


IONA.     (P.  216.) 

The  short  Description  of  I  or  lona  is  anonymous  in  Mac- 
farlane,  but  in  Sibbald's  Repertory,  p.  31,  it  is  attributed  to 
Jo.  Fraser,  Dean  of  the  Isles,  having  been  written  in  answer  to 
queries  by  Sibbald  at  the  desire  of  Bishop  Graham  of  the 
Isles.  The  following  Description  of  Tiree,  Coll,  and  lona  has 
the  same  origin  and  history.  The  Bishop  Graham  referred 
to  was  probably  Archibald  Graham,  who  was  raised  to  this 
see  in  1680.  John  Fraser  wrote  a  well-known  book,  A  Treatise 
on  Second  Sight,  12mo,  Edin.,  1707. 

The  Description  appears  in  Sibbald's  Topographical  Notices, 
and  the  date  is  given  as  1693.  It  is  thus  of  too  late  a  date  to 
have  found  a  place  in  Blaeu. 

In  the  Latin  couplet  that  it  contains,  the  word  <"una'>  is 
used  adverbially. 


PREFACE  xxxiii 


TIREE,  COLL,  AND  IONA.     (P.  217.) 

Jo.  Fraser  wrote  and  signed  the  Account  of  the  lyls  of 
Tirry,  Gunna,  Colle,  and  Icolmkill.  The  original,  believed  to  be 
in  Fraser's  script,  appears  in  Sibbald's  Topographical  Notices. 

These  two  Descriptions  by  John  Fraser  do  not  of  course 
appear  in  the  Scottish  volume  of  Blaeu's  Atlas.  Both  of  them 
have  been  printed  by  Maidment  in  the  second  volume  of  the 
Spottiswoode  Miscellany,  p.  343  and  p.  345. 


SKYE.     (P.  219.) 

The  Description  of  Skye  is  anonymous  in  Macfarlane,  but 
Sibbald  says  that  a  Description  of  Skye,  written  by  a  Mr. 
Macmartin,  was  given  to  him  by  the  chaplain  of  Macdonald  of 
Sleat,  and  that,  perhaps,  may  be  the  Description  given  in 
Macfarlane. 

It  has  a  place  in  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices,  but  it  is 
of  too  late  a  date  to  appear  in  Blaeu's  Scottish  volume.  It  was 
printed  by  James  Maidment  in  volume  u.  of  the  Spottiswoode 
Miscellany,  p.  347. 


ABERDEEN  AND  BANFF.     (P.  224  and  P.  267.) 

The  Accounts  in  Latin  of  the  Shires  of  Aberdeen  and 
Banff  were  written  by  Sir  Robert  Gordon  of  Straloch,  though 
this  is  not  shown  by  anything  in  the  Macfarlane  Collections, 
nor  is  there  any  indication  there  of  the  date. 

Taitt,  Macfarlane's  transcriber,  appears  to  have  copied  these 
into  the  Macfarlane  Collections  from  Sir  Robert  Gordon's 
own  script,  as  given  in  the  Topographical  Notices  of  Scot- 
land collected  by  Sir  Robert  Sibbald..  Gordon  is  the 
accredited  author  of  the  Map  of  Aberdeen  and  Banff  in 

c 


xxxiv  PKKFACK 

the  Scottish  volume  of  Blaeu's  Atlas,  of  which  the  first 
edition  appeared  in  1654  and  the  second  edition  in  1662. 
The  Map  is  given  in  both  editions,  but  the  Description  does 
not  appear  in  the  first  edition.  It  is  given,  however,  in  the 
second  edition,  with  Robert  Gordon's  name  as  its  author. 
The  omission  of  Gordon's  Description  when  the  Map  first 
appeared  is  not  easy  of  explanation.  It  has  been  attributed 
to  a  misunderstanding  between  Gordon  and  Blaeu,  the 
existence  of  which  is  suggested  by  Bishop  Nicolson ;  but 
Dr.  Joseph  Robertson  thinks  it  more  probable  that  it  was 
left  out  because  it  had  not  reached  Amsterdam  in  time  for 
insertion.  It  is  of  course  possible  that  some  delay  in  sending 
the  Account  to  Holland  may  have  arisen  from  its  not  having 
undergone  a  full  revision  at  the  hands  of  Gordon,  when  Blaeu's 
Scottish  volume  was  first  published. 

As  the  Description  was  given  to  the  public  in  1662,  in  the 
second  edition  of  Blaeu,  this  may  be  taken  as  its  date,  though 
it  existed,  almost  certainly,  in  a  more  or  less  complete  form, 
some  years  before  1662.  It  has  been  more  than  once  in  print. 
It  not  only  appeared  in  Blaeu  in  1662,  but  was  reprinted 
in  1843,  under  the  editorship  of  Dr.  Joseph  Robertson,  by  the 
Old  Spalding  Club  in  the  Collections  for  a  History  of  the  Shires 
of  Aberdeen  and  Banff.  When  the  Description  was  given  to 
Sibbald  in  MS.  by  James  Gordon,  it  had  already  appeared  in 
Blaeu. 

Joseph  Robertson  made  editorial  changes  somewhat  freely 
— 4  amending  faults,"1 '  correcting  errors  in  names  of  places,'  and 
'  supplying  defects  by  reference  to  fragments '  that  are  pre- 
served in  Gordon's  script  in  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices. 
These  fragments  are  referred  to  further  on  in  this  Preface. 
They  yielded  much  matter  to  the  publications  of  the  Old 
Spalding  Club. 

Perhaps  Robertson  improved  the  Description  by  the  changes 
he  made  as  editor,  for  he  was  himself  intimately  acquainted 
with  the  Aberdeen  and  Banff'  district;  but  it  is  of  course 


PREFACE  xxxv 

possible  that  he  occasionally  did  the  reverse.  I  have  myself  not 
aimed  at  making  any  improvements.  My  aim  is  to  print  the 
Description  without  change  of  any  kind,  and  that  aim  has  been 
remembered  by  the  translator,  whose  rendering  into  English 
is  as  close  as  he  could  make  it.  This  is  the  first  appearance  in 
English  of  Gordon's  Account  of  these  two  Northern  Shires.  The 
Description  in  Latin  stands  in  this  volume  as  a  correct  copy 
of  a  description  of  a  part  of  Scotland  written  by  a  very  com- 
petent hand  nearly  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago.  The  only 
changes  I  have  made  in  the  Latin  consist  in  the  correction  of 
grammatical  errors,  probably  made  by  the  transcribers,  and  also 
in  the  improvement  of  the  punctuation.  I  think  that  no 
word  lias  been  added,  and  that  no  word  has  been  taken  out. 

It  is  certain  that  Robert  Gordon  compiled  the  Map  of 
Aberdeen  and  Banff  that  is  given  in  Blaeu,  and  Joseph 
Robertson,  himself  intimately  acquainted  with  the  district, 
praises  its  accuracy  and  fulness. 

Among  the  things  seen  or  not  seen  (1  and  2  seen,  3  not 
seen)  and  likely  to  be  useful  in  carrying  out  his  project, 
Sibbald  gives  the  following  in  his  Nuncius  Scoto-Britannus, 
Sive  adrnonitio  de  Atlante  Scotico  (1683),  advertising  his  pro- 
jected Atlas  and  Description  of  Scotland: — 

1.  Theatrum  Scoticc,  Auctore  doctissimo  illo  viro  Roberto 

Gordonio   de  Straloch.      Tractatus  Latina   lingua 
compositus  (p.  11  of  the  Nunclus). 

2.  Scotia  Antigua  [a  Map]  per  Robertum  Gordon! urn  de 

Straloch  (p.  6  of  the  Nuncius). 

3.  Scotia?  Regimen,  Auctore  Roberto  Gordonio  de   Stra- 

loch (p.  14  of  the  Nuncius}. 

In  the  English  Advertisement  of  his  Scottish  Atlas,  etc. 
(p.  9)  Sibbald  gives  No.  3  as  the  6  Government  of  Scotland, 
written  by  Straloch.'' 

The  two  short  Notes,  the  one  headed  Non  Omnino,  etc. 
(p.  247),  and  the  other  Aliud  hitjuscemodi  (p.  247),  which 


xxxvi  PREFACE 

occur  with  Gordon's  Descriptions  of  the  counties  of  Aberdeen 
and  Banff,  were  presumably  copied  by  Taitt  from  Sibbald's 
Topographical  Notices,  where  the  first,  and  the  first  only, 
exists  in  Robert  Gordon's  handwriting,  but  they  are  not  given 
in  Blaeu,  and  are  apparently  now  for  the  first  time  printed. 

Altogether  there  are  five  items  relating  to  Aberdeen  and 
Banff,  and  they  are  all  treated  here  as  having  been  written 
by  Straloch.  The  author  is  not  named  in  the  Sibbald  or  in 
the  Macfarlane  Collections,  but  the  attribution  is  well  sup- 
ported both  by  the  testimony  of  Sibbald  and  by  internal 
evidence.  Dr.  Joseph  Robertson  copied  from  Blaeu,  but  Mac- 
farlane's  transcriber  copied  from  the  manuscript  in  the  Sibbald 
Topographical  Notices,  though  he  does  not  say  so.  He  does 
not  appear  to  have  done  any  editing,  but  he  occasionally  fails 
in  accuracy,  though  not  more  frequently  or  seriously  than 
copyists  usually  do,  even  when  they  copy  what  is  written  in 
their  own  tongue.  It  is  the  first  of  these  five  items  that 
appears  in  Blaeu — that  is,  the  Adnotata  ad  Descriptionem, 
etc. — and  it  is  given  there  with  such  changes  as  are  usually 
made  by  an  author  in  passing  his  work  through  the  press. 


MORAY.     (P.  306  and  P.  309.) 

The  account  of  Moray  in  Latin  is  without  name  of  author 
or  date  in  the  Macfarlane  Collections.  It  forms  a  part  of 
the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices  without  any  heading  or 
title,  and  it  is  probably,  but  not  certainly,  in  Sir  Robert 
Gordon's  handwriting.  It  is  not  given  in  the  Scottish  volume 
of  Blaeu.  Macfarlane's  transcriber  appears  to  have  copied  it 
from  the  manuscript  in  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices. 
He  does  not  tell  us,  however,  from  what  he  copied. 

It  will  be  safe,  I  think,  to  regard  this  description  as  the 
work  of  Straloch.  Whether  this  is  or  is  not  correct,  its  date 
cannot  be  long  before  1654. 


PREFACE  xxxvii 

PROVINCES  OF  SCOTLAND.     (P.  311.) 

Although  this  is  in  English,  there  is  sufficient  reason  for 
attributing  it  to  Robert  Gordon.  It  is  known  to  have  been 
in  Sibbald's  possession,  but  it  has  not  been  found  in  his 
Collections. 


EXTRACTS  FROM  BEDE.     (P.  312  and  P.  320.) 

These  appear  in  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices.  They 
are  beyond  question  in  Robert  Gordon's  script,  and  they  may 
be  taken  with  certainty  to  have  been  prepared  by  him.  They 
appear  to  be  Notes  made  in  the  expectation  of  finding  material 
in  them  to  assist  in  the  description  of  localities ;  and  there 
is  evidence  that  he  found  them  useful  in  that  and  other  ways. 
Gordon  often  follows  an  Extract  from  Bede  by  observations 
of  his  own,  and  these  are  distinguished  in  the  Translation  by 
not  giving  them  within  quotation  marks. 

THE  ANTIQUITY  OF  THE  SCOTS  IN  BRITAIN.   (P.  327  and  P.  332.) 

This  Discourse  is  copied  by  Macfarlane's  transcriber  from 
a  paper  in  Sibbald's  Topographical  Notices,  in  Straloch's 
writing.  It  is  printed  in  Blaeu's  Scottish  volume  as  part  of 
the  Introductory  matter,  and  is  there  definitely  attributed 
to  Gordon. 

The  first  paragraph  of  the  Discourse  is  a  prefatory  note 
by  Gordon  addressed  to  David  Buchanan,  who  is  called 
'  Doctissime  Buchanane,1  and  in  this  note  he  declares  him- 
self to  be  the  author. 

Sibbald,  in  his  own  handwriting,  says  on  p.  22  of  his 
Repertory  of  Manuscripts : — '  Next  to  the  Gordons,  the  Father 
&  the  son,  their  friend  Mr.  David  Buchanan  commeth  to  be 
mentioned,  who,  besides  what  he  wrott  relating  to  the  Scotia 
Antiqua,  wrott  severall  Latine  descriptions  of  some  shyres.' 


xxxviii  PREFACE 

But  for  the  evidence  just  adduced,  this  might  have  led  to  an 
erroneous  attribution  of  the  Discourse  to  David  Buchanan. 

The  date  of  the  Discourse  may  be  taken  as  not  much  before 
1654. 

ROMAN  WALLS.    (P.  336  and  P.  339.) 

This  is  in  Robert  Gordon's  script  in  Sibbald's  Topographical 
Notices.  It  is  also  in  both  editions  of  Blaeu's  Scottish  volume 
with  some  unimportant  editorial  changes,  and  Gordon  may  be 
safely  accepted  as  the  author. 

ORIGIN  OF  THE  SAXON  TONGUE.     (P.  342  and  P.  347.) 

This  is  copied  into  Macfarlane  from  Sibbald's  Topographical 
Notices,  where  it  appears  in  Robert  Gordon's  handwriting.  It 
is  given  in  the  Scottish  volume  of  Blaeu  with  a  somewhat 
different  heading,  and  Gordon  may  be  taken  without  doubt 
as  the  author. 

THULE.     (P.  351  and  P.  353.) 

This  is  copied  from  Sibbald's  Collection  of  Topographical 
Notices,  where  it  appears  in  Robert  Gordon's  script.  It  is 
printed  in  Blaeu,  and  is  there  definitely  attributed  to  Gordon. 

OLD  SCOTLAND.     (P.  355  and  P.  362.) 

This  is  copied  from  Sibbald's  Collection  of  Topographical 
Notices,  where  it  occurs  in  Sir  Robert  Gordon's  handwrit- 
ing. It  is  also  printed  in  Blaeu,  in  connection  with  the  map 
of  Old  Scotland,  which  was  compiled  by  Straloch. 

In  the  body  of  the  paper  there  is  an  explanatory  note 
in  the  script  of  Straloch  that  is  not  given  by  Blaeu. 
There  is  also  at  the  end  of  the  paper  a  note  by  Straloch, 
which  gives  the  date  of  the  writing — December  1649 — and 


PREFACE  xxxix 

which  is  signed  R.  Gordonius.     There  is  thus  no  doubt  that 
this  Description  was  written  by  Straloch. 

But  Sibbald  says  in  the  Advertisement  in  English  of  his 
projected  Atlas,  1683,  p.  3, '  The  Theater  of  Scotland  published 
by  Blaeu,  for  all  its  Bulk,  (except  it  be  the  Description  of 
some  few  shires  by  the  learned  Gordovi  of  Straloch,  and  some 
sheets  of  his  of  the  Scotia  Antiqua)  containeth  little  more 
than  what  [George]  Buchanan  wrote,  and  some  few  scraps  out 
of  CambdenS  Sibbald  thus  appears  to  have  regarded  Straloch 
as  the  writer  of  the  Scotia  Antiqua.  He  certainly  knew  that 
Gordon  compiled  Blaeu's  Map  of  Ancient  Scotland,  for  he 
gives  in  his  Nuncius  Scoto-Britannus  sive  Admonitio  de  Atlante 
Scotico,  $c.,  among  the  Tabulae  Geographicae  to  appear  in  his 
Atlas,  Scotia  Antiqua  per  Robertum  Gordonium  de  Straloch. 
Yet  he  elsewhere  in  his  Repertory  of  Manuscripts,  p.  22, 
seems  to  suggest  that  David  Buchanan  was  the  writer  of  the 
papers  in  Blaeu  about  Old  Scotland.  He  says :  '  Next  to 
the  Gordons,  the  Father  &  the  Son,  their  friend  Mr.  David 
Buchanan  commeth  to  be  mentioned,  who,  besides  what  he 
wrott  relating  to  the  Scotia  Antiqua,  wrott  severall  Latine 
descriptions  of  some  shyres."* 

WALL  OK  ADKIAN.     (P.  368  and  P.  369.) 

Pont  is  given  as  the  author  of  this  Account.  It  appears 
in  Sibbald's  Topographical  Notices  in  R.  Gordon's  hand- 
writing, and  in  Latin.  It  also  appears  in  Blaeu,  but  as  a 
translation  into  English.  It  is,  however,  possibly  incorrect 
to  speak  of  it  as  a  translation  into  English,  because  Pont 
almost  always,  so  far  as  I  know,  wrote  in  English,  and  it  may 
be  that  what  appears  in  Macfarlane  is  rather  a  translation  into 
Latin  by  Gordon. 

ROMAN  DEFENSIVE  LINES.     (P.  369  and  P.  373.) 
This     is     transcribed     into     Macfarlane     from     Sibl  ald^s 


xl  PREFACE 

Topographical  Notices,  where  it  appears  in  Straloch's  writing. 
It  is  not  given  in  Blaeu's  Scottish  volume.  Robert  Gordon 
may  with  certainty  be  accepted  as  the  author. 


EXTRACTS  FROM  CAMBDEN  ON  THIS  SUBJECT.    (P.  371  and  P.  375.) 

This  item  is  also  copied  into  Macfarlane  from  Sibbald's 
Topographical  Notices,  where  it  exists  in  Robert  Gordon's 
writing.  It  is  not  given  in  Blaeu. 

It  seems  to  consist  of  extracts  from  Cambden  by  Straloch 
to  assist  in  the  preparation  of  Descriptions  for  Blaeu. 

OUR  ANCESTORS.     (P.  376  and  P.  378.) 

This  is  copied  from  a  paper  in  Sibbald's  Topographical 
Notices  in  the  script  of  Robert  Gordon,  the  heading,  how- 
ever, being  in  Sibbald's  writing.  It  is  not  given  in  Blaeu's 
Scottish  volume.  Gordon  is  certainly  the  author. 

COMING  OF  THE  SCOTS  TO  BRITAIN.     (P.  380  and  P.  383.) 

This  is  in  Sibbald's  Topographical  Notices,  in  the  hand- 
writing of  Robert  Gordon,  who  is  certainly  the  author.  It  is 
not  in  Blaeu's  Scottish  volume. 


DERIVATION  OF  SCOTTISH  NAME,  AND  CANNIBALISM  [IN 
SCOTLAND].     (P.  385  and  P.  388.) 

This  subject  is  treated  in  two  parts,  both  of  which  are  in 
the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices,  but  not  in  Blaeu. 

Before  the  paragraph  beginning  '  Jam  de  origine  gentis,1  on 
p.  387,  Sibbald  has  given  in  his  own  writing  as  a  sub-heading, 
'  Origo  gentis,1  and  this  has  been  copied  by  Macfarlane's  tran- 
scriber. Robert  Gordon  is  the  author. 


PREFACE  xli 

DISCOURSE  ON  THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  SCOTLAND  BEFORE 
THE  LATE  TROUBLES.     (P.  391.) 

This  Discourse,  in  English,  is  in  the  Sibbald  Topographical 
Notices.  It  is  in  the  handwriting  of  Sir  Robert  Gordon,  but 
there  are  marginal  notes,  interlineations,  and  deletions  in  a 
different  script,  and  with  a  different  ink.  This  writing  and 
ink  are  the  same  as  those  of  a  paper  containing  Answers  to  Sir 
Robert  Gordons  Queries  in  the  same  volume  of  the  Sibbald 
Collections.  Taitt  copied  the  Discourse  into  the  Macfarlane 
Collections  from  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices,  and  he 
incorporated  almost  all,  if  not  all,  the  marginal  notes  and 
interlineations,  without  indicating  that  they  were  not  Gordon's 
text.  The  Discourse  in  Macfarlane  is  thus  an  edited  copy  of 
what  was  written  by  Gordon,  but  the  name  of  the  editor  is 
not  given.  Taitt  himself  did  no  editing. 

The  Discourse  is  one  of  two  things  in  this  volume  written 
by  Robert  Gordon  that  are  in  English.  Neither  in  the 
Sibbald  nor  in  the  Macfarlane  Collections  is  author's  name  or 
date  given,  nor  is  there  any  indication  in  Macfarlane  of  where 
his  transcriber  found  the  Discourse.  None  of  the  friends 
whom  I  consulted  had  seen  it,  but  Bishop  Dowden  suggested 
that  Sir  Robert  Gordon  himself  might  well  be  its  author,  as 
the  views  it  contains  are  such  as  he  was  likely  to  hold ;  and 
Bishop  Dowden  was  right.  Sir  Robert  Gordon  is  the  author 
of  the  Discourse. 

Sir  Robert  Sibbald,  at  p.  21  of  his  Repertory  of  Manuscripts, 
says : — '  In  English  there  is  extant  done  by  him  [Robert 
Gordon]  .  .  .  and  there  is  a  discourse  subjoined  to  them 
anent  the  government  of  Scotland  as  it  was  before  the  late 
troubles.1  This  shows  that  Sibbald  had  no  doubt  as  to  the 
authorship,  but  if  he  had  not  definitely  said  this,  the  other 
documents  named  by  Sibbald  at  the  beginning  of  the  quota- 
tion would  have  led  to  the  same  conclusion.  One  of  these 


xlii  PREFACE 

is  entitled  : — '  Answers  returned  to  his  [Sir  Robert  Gordon's] 
queries,  wherein  there  is  a  just  account  of  ye  government  of 
Scotland  as  it  was  in  former  tymes.'  These  Answers,  as 
already  stated,  are  written  by  the  same  hand  and  with  the 
same  ink  as  are  the  marginal  notes  and  interlineations  on 
the  Discourse  in  Gordon's  writing.  These  notes  and  inter- 
lineations are  referred  to  in  footnotes  in  the  print  of  the 
Discourse  given  in  this  volume. 

It  seems  clear  that  Gordon  founded  his  Discourse,  in  part 
at  least,  on  these  'Answers?  and  it  is  thus  that  the  Discourse 
is  said  to  be  ' subjoined'1  to  the  Answers  given  to  Gordon's 
Queries.  All  that  remains  unknown  is  the  name  of  the 
answerer. 

The  Discourse  does  not  appear  in  Blaeu. 


FIFE.     (P.  402  and  P.  407.) 

This  is  in  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices  in  the  script 
of  Straloch,  and  it  is  printed  in  Blaeu's  Scottish  volume,  with 
a  definite  attribution  to  Gordon. 

There  are  some  short  paragraphs  in  Blaeu  that  do  not 
occur  in  Macfarlane,  and  vice  versa  ;  and  the  order  or  arrange- 
ment of  the  paragraphs  is  not  the  same  in  Blaeu  and  Mac- 
farlane. 

Macfarlane's  transcriber  has  not  copied  from  Blaeu,  but 
from  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices. 

There  are  numerous  minor  or  verbal  differences  between 
Blaeu  and  Straloch,  as  Straloch  appears  in  the  Sibbald 
Topographical  Notices.  The  spelling  of  proper  names  differs 
in  Straloch,  Blaeu,  and  Macfarlane. 

Occasionally  blanks  occur  in  Gordon's  MS.,  and  some  of 
these  appear  also  both  in  Blaeu's  print  and  in  Macfarlane's 
transcription. 


PREFACE  xliii 

CAITHNESS,  STRATHNAVER,  Ross,  ASSYNT,  MORAY,  SUTHER- 
LAND, ETC.     (P.  412  and  P.  443.) 

This  is  a  group  of  long  and  full  Descriptions,  and  includes 
under  sub-headings  Ross,  Assynt,  Sutherland,  Caithness, 
Strathnaver,  Edir-da-cheulis,  Moray  and  Sutherland.  They 
all  appear  in  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices  in  Straloch's 
handwriting,  except  one  of  the  Descriptions  of  Sutherland,  and 
all  of  them  are  given  in  the  Scottish  volume  of  Blaeu,  the 
parts  about  Assynt  and  Caithness  undergoing  some  change  of 
structure  and  arrangement. 

There  are  two  Descriptions  of  Sutherland,  and  Sir  Robert 
Gordon  of  Straloch  thus  begins  the  first  (p.  417) : — '  Hujus 
descriptionem  mihi  communicavit  nobilis  Eques  D.  Robertus 
Gordonius  a  Gordonstoun  Illustrissimi  Sutherlandiae  Comitis 
patruus.  Unde  delibabo  quae  ad  instituti  mei  rationem 
spectant.1  He  then  presumably  goes  on  to  give  these  cull- 
ings,  and  adds  three  paragraphs  more  or  less  of  the  nature  of 
amplification. 

Gordonstoun's  unculled  and  unaltered  account  of  Suther- 
land (p.  436),  probably  in  his  own  handwriting,  is  in  the 
Sibbald  Topographical  Notices,  and  it  also  appears  in  Blaeu's 
Scottish  volume,  where  it  is  attributed  to  Gordonstoun.  It  is 
called  the  Vera  Sutherlandice  Descriptio. 

The  long  Description  of  Moray  (p.  427)  is  in  the  Sibbald 
Topographical  Notices  in  Straloch's  script.  It  is  also  printed 
in  Blaeu,  with  the  omission  of  the  concluding  paragraph,  and 
Robert  Gordon  is  there  given  as  the  author. 

Gordon  of  Straloch  may  without  hesitation  be  accepted  as 
the  author  of  all  the  Accounts  in  this  group,  except  the 
Account  of  Sutherland  by  Gordon  of  Gordonstoun. 

OLD  AND  NEW  ABERDEEN.     (P.  469  and  P.  491.) 
J.    G.   [James    Gordon]    is    given    as    the   Author  of    this 
Description. 


xliv  PREFACE 

'  To  illustrate  the  Plan  of  his  native  City  James  Gordon 
composed  in  Latin  his  Abredonicc  Utriusque  Descriptio,  still 
preserved  in  the  Library  of  the  Faculty  of  Advocates  at 
Edinburgh '  (Old  Spalding  Club,  1842),  where  it  forms  part  of 
the  Sibbald  Collections.  It  is  open  to  question  whether  the 
script  is  that  of  the  father  or  of  the  son,  or  indeed  of  either. 

It  is  not  printed  in  Blaeu's  Scottish  volume,  perhaps  because 
the  map  of  the  two  towns  does  not  appear  there. 

It  is  not  known  that  the  Latin  description  given  in  this 
volume  was  ever  before  in  print. 

A  translation  of  it  into  English  also  appears  in  MS.  in  the 
Sibbald  Topographical  Notices,  and  this  is  not  in  the  hand- 
writing of  either  of  the  Gordons.  This  translation  was  printed 
as  a  separate  volume,  1842,  by  the  Old  Spalding  Club,  with 
Cosmo  Innes  as  the  editor.  He  says  (p.  vi)  that  the  work  of 
the  translator  '  is  everywhere  rude,  and  with  the  idiom  and  con- 
strained air  of  an  imperfectly  understood  original ;  while  in 
some  places  he  has  plainly  mistaken  the  meaning  of  the 
homely  but  vigorous  Latin  of  James  Gordon. ' 

An  accurate  translation  into  English  by  Mr.  Gow  is  given 
in  this  volume,  which  thus  contains  a  version  in  Latin  and 
one  in  English  of  the  description  of  the  two  Aberdeens, 
neither  of  them  hitherto  in  print. 

The  date  of  this  Description  of  the  two  towns  of  Aberdeen 
is  c.  1647. 

HIGHLANDS  AND  ISLES  OF  SCOTLAND.     (P.  509.) 

Noates  and  Observations  of  dyvers  parts  of  the  Hielands  and 

Isles  of  Scotland. 

These  were  copied  by  Macfarlane's  transcriber  from  the 
Sibbald  Topographical  Notices.  They  are  there  almost 
certainly  in  the  script  of  James  Gordon,  Parson  of  Rothie- 
may,  and  they  may  be  said  to  constitute  one  much- 
broken-up  document,  consisting  of  ninety-one  separate  items 


PREFACE  xlv 

with  Headings.  They  form  a  considerable  part  of  the  second 
volume  of  the  Macfarlane  Collections,  even  though  some  of  them 
are  omitted  by  Taitt,  who  also  changed  their  order.  There  is  no 
doubt  that  James  Gordon  was  largely  copying  when  he  wrote, 
but  he  commented,  deleted,  and  amplified  as  he  copied. 

It  would  not,  I  think,  be  far  from  the  truth  roughly  to 
attribute  the  great  bulk  of  these  'Noates'  to  Timothy  Pont 
as  the  author.  Indeed,  it  seems  to  me  beyond  question  that 
he  wrote  a  large  part  of  them,  and,  if  this  is  correct,  it  gives 
them  exceptional  value.  Some  of  them,  however,  were  not 
written  by  Pont.  Gordon  definitely  says  that  he  had  '  from 
Glenurquhay  himself  in  June  1644  at  Aberdeen  the  Noats 
of  Distances  of  Places  about  the  Head  of  Lochtay,  Loch  Erin, 
L.  Dochart,  Glen  Urquhay,  etc.1;  that  he  had  Stormonth  'fra 
Mr.  D.  Drummond's  Papers';  and  that  he  had  the  'Noats  of 
Lennox  &  Stirling-shy r  fra  gentlemen  of  that  country,  15  May, 
1644.'  Frequently,  however,  he  attributes  the  '  Noats'  to  Pont 
by  name,  saying  that  he  got  them  '  out  of  Mr.  Timothy  Pont  his 
papers.'  It  seems  only  a  reasonable  opinion  that  nearly  all  the 
Notes  or  Fragments  that  are  not  definitely  assigned  by  Gordon 
to  others  than  Pont,  are  Notes  that  Pont  made  for  the  purpose 
of  embodying  them  in  maps — the  preparation  of  maps  being 
the  business  of  his  wanderings  over  Scotland.  It  helps  to  this 
opinion  that  it  is  definitely  known  that  Pout's  papers  came 
into  Gordon's  hands.  About  the  Notes  relating  to  Badenoch, 
Gordon  says  in  the  heading,  '  This  is  wryten  out  of  Mr. 
Timothies  Papers,  &  in  it  thur  manie  things  false.'  Gordon 
did  not  slavishly  copy  what  Pont  wrote — he  made  additions 
and  changes  that  are  often  evident.  He  gave  the  Notes, 
as  he  thought  they  should  stand — as  he  himself  says,  they 
are  only  '  drawn  furth  of  Mr.  Timothy  Pont  his  papers.' 

These  Notes  are  such  as  would  be  written  by  a  surveyor, 
who  was  making  them  for  the  purpose  of  constructing  maps  of 
the  places  to  which  they  referred.  They  are  accordingly  dis- 
tinguished by  the  absence  of  what  I  may  call  gossip,  and  they 


xlvi  PREFACE 

furnish  me  with  few  noteworthy  things  that  I  can  enter  in 
my  list  of  things  that  attracted  attention  in  reading  the  second 
volume. 

The  punctuation  of  the  Notes  or  Jottings  by  Gordon  is  not 
so  utterly  eccentric  as  it  is  in  much  that  Macfarlane's  volumes 
contain.  There  are  also  more  Scottish  words,  more  of  Scottish 
spelling,  and  a  somewhat  greater  regard  for  grammar.  The 
Notes  are  very  largely  records  of  the  situations  of  places,  the 
distance  between  one  place  and  another,  the  courses  of  rivers, 
the  sizes  of  lochs,  the  characters  of  glens,  the  heights  of  hills, 
and  all  such  other  things  as  are  needed  by  the  map-maker. 
They  have  the  general  look  of  memoranda  or  jottings  in  pocket 
note-books.  What  has  become  of  the  originals  has  not  been 
discovered.  There  is  good  reason  to  believe  that  they  came 
into  the  possession  of  the  Gordons,  and  they  may  have 
been  sent  by  them  to  Holland,  for  use  in  the  preparation 
of  the  text  of  the  Scottish  volume  of  Blaeu  by  Scotstarvet 
and  others.  They  were  eventually  sent  to  Sibbald.  James 
Gordon's  reason  for  making  a  copy  of  the  Notes  is  not 
easily  seen,  and  his  copy,  as  now  existing  in  the  Sibbald 
Topographical  Notices,  shows  no  sign  of  having  journeyed  to 
Amsterdam  and  back,  but  perhaps  the  mode  of  transmission 
at  that  time  would  not  leave  the  evidences  which  transmission 
through  the  Post  Office  in  our  time  would  leave.  It  is  difficult 
to  determine  to  what  extent  the  Notes  were  used  in  drawing 
up  Descriptions  for  Blaeu's  maps,  but  that  they  were  used 
is  all  but  certain.  They  have  also  been  used,  in  a  more  or 
less  free  fashion,  by  many  writers  on  the  topography  of  Scot- 
land. Indeed,  such  writers  have  gone  freely  for  copy  to  the 
Macfarlane  Collections. 

I  have,  on  p.  xxxi,  drawn  attention  to  a  similarity  between 
some  of  the  short  Descriptions  under  this  heading,  and  some 
of  those,  of  greater  length,  under  a  somewhat  like  heading 
(p.  144).  Several  of  the  short  Descriptions  are  printed  in  the 
second  volume  of  the  Spottiswoode  Miscellany. 


PREFACE  xlvii 


SHIRK  AXD  TOWN  OF  EDINBURGH.     (P.  614  and  P.  628.) 

The  Description  of  the  Shire  of  Edinburgh  by  David 
Buchanan,  either  in  Latin  or  as  a  translation  into  English,  is 
not  known  to  exist  in  print.  There  is  some  reason,  however, 
to  believe  that  it  was  translated  into  English,  because  Sir 
Robert  Sibbald  says  at  p.  25  of  his  Repertory  of  Manuscripts , 
'  The  Discription  of  the  Sherifdome  of  Edinburgh  in  our  Lan- 
guague  [sic]  answereth  so  to  that  made  in  Latine  by  Mr.  David 
Buchanan,  that  I  take  it  to  be  done  by  him  although  the  MS. 
extant  be  anonymous.'1  This  does  not,  however,  necessarily 
mean  that  it  had  been  printed.  Sibbald  appears  to  have 
actually  seen  the  MS.,  for  he  says  of  it — 4  'tis  two  sheets.' 

David  Buchanan's  Description  of  the  City  of  Edinburgh 
has  a  somewhat  different  story,  as  is  shown  below. 

Macfarlane's  transcriber  prefaces  his  copy  of  the  two  De- 
scriptions, that  is,  the  Description  of  the  Shire  and  of  the 
Town,  with  these  words  : — '  From  thrie  sheet  of  Paper  stitcht 
together  marked  6  being  in  Sir  Robert  SibbakTs  Collection  of 
manuscripts  now  in  the  Faculty  of  Advocats  library/  This  is 
almost  the  only  instance  in  which  Taitt  gives  us  the  source  from 
which  he  copied.  The  two  Descriptions,  as  they  now  exist,  are 
bound  together  in  a  thin  volume  (31.6.19.),  of  which  they  form 
the  sole  contents.  They  are  in  a  script  not  unlike  that  of 
Sir  Robert  Gordon  of  Straloch,  but  larger,  and  otherwise 
sufficiently  differing  to  justify  the  opinion  that  he  was  not 
the  writer,  and  it  is  naturally  suggested  that  they  may  be  in 
the  handwriting  of  David  Buchanan  himself. 

The  Description  of  the  City  of  Edinburgh  is  commonly 
regarded  as  having  been  composed  to  accompany  the  well- 
known  1647  Bird's- Eye  View  of  Edinburgh,  prepared  for  the 
Magistrates  of  the  City  by  James  Gordon,  Parson  of  Rothie- 
may,  and  son  of  Sir  Robert  Gordon  of  Straloch.  The 


xlviii  PREFACE 

Description  is  known  to  have  been  '  in  print/  James  Gordon 
himself,  in  his  Description  of  both  towns  of  Aberdeen,  says 
that  'it  is  in  print  subjoynt  to  a  Mappe  of  Edinburgh, 
which  I  published  some  years  ago,"1  and  Sibbald  says  in  his 
Collections  that  he  had  4  the  plan  of  ye  Town  of  Edinburgh 
wt  its  description  in  print.'  It  was  probably  put  into  type  in 
Holland,  as  a  single  sheet.  (Bannatyne  Club  Miscellany,  1836, 
ii.  pp.  389-406.)  When  the  Description  appeared  in  the 
Miscellany  of  the  Bannatyne  Club,  no  printed  copy  of  it  was 
known  to  exist.  But  when  David  Laing  in  1865  wrote  the 
historical  notice  for  W.  and  A.  K.  Johnston's  facsimile  of 
James  Gordon's  1647  Bird^s-Eye  Viezv  of  Edinburgh,  he  was  able 
to  state  that  he  had  seen,  in  the  Imperial  Library  at  Paris,  a 
printed  copy  '  on  a  large  leaf  along  with  Gordon's  Plan  and  his 
different  views  of  Edinburgh  joined  together.'  Laing  does  not 
say  whether  the  print  was  in  Latin,  in  English,  or  in  some  other 
language.  Quite  lately  John  S.  Mackay,  LL.D.,  visited  the 
Imperial  Library  at  Paris,  now  the  Bibliotheque  Nationale,  to 
ascertain  for  me  how  the  matter  stands  at  present,  and  he 
found,  in  the  Departement  des  Estampes,  a  copy  of  Gordon's 
Bird's-Eye  View  with  Buchanan's  Description  attached,  or  at 
least  in  connection.  The  Description  is  in  print,  and  is  in 
French.  Dr.  Mackay  says  that  the  beginning  of  it  is  taken 
up  with  '  fantastic  etymology.'  He  gives  me  the  following 
extracts : — 

.  .  .  '  Temple  nomme  Aistaire  du  nom  de  la  venerable 
Dame  d' Aistaire  qui  1'a  fondee.' 

.   .  .  'L'Hospital  cPHercoli  du  nom  de  son  fondateur/  .  .  . 

.  .  .  '  Un  Temple  nouvellement  basty,  qui  s'appelle  1'Eglise 
de  la  balance,  parce  qu'elle  est  voisine  de  1'ancien  bourreau 
\sic~\  des  poids  et  balances  publiques.' 

These  extracts — referring  to  Lady  Yester's  Church,  the 
Heriot  Hospital,  and  the  Tron  Church — leave  no  doubt  that 
the  document  is  a  translation  into  French  of  David  Buchanan's 
Latin  Description  of  the  Town  of  Edinburgh. 


PREFACE  xlix 

Hercoli  is  a  curious  rendering  of  Herioti,  and  illustrates 
how  the  name  of  a  place  may  change — the  transcriber  had 
only  to  write  i  as  c  and  t  as  I  to  turn  Herioti  into  Hercoli. 

Buchanan's  Description  of  the  Town  did  not  meet  with  the 
approval  of  James  Gordon.  The  unknown  translator  of 
Gordon's  Description  of  the  Two  Towns  of  Aberdeen  (Old 
Spalding  Club,  1842)  makes  Gordon  call  David  Buchanan  4  a 
certane  Pedant,'  and  it  is  now  generally  accepted  that  he  did  so 
call  him — the  more  readily  accepted,  perhaps,  because  it  is  felt 
that  there  is  some  fitness  in  the  designation.  But,  in  point  of 
fact,  Gordon  does  not  go  beyond  calling  him,  perhaps  con- 
temptuously, '  a  certain  person ' — '  quidam ' — and  the  anony- 
mous translator  edits  person  into  pedant.  The  same  transla- 
tor makes  Gordon  call  Buchanan's  Description  of  Edinburgh 
'  unworthie  and  impertinent.'  What  Gordon  really  says  is 
that  '  the  Capital  of  Scotland  has  now,  on  account  of  an  un- 
worthy Description,  been  exposed  to  the  ridicule  of  all  men,' 
so  that  the  unknown  translator,  by  the  changes  he  made,  both 
strengthens  and  weakens  Gordon's  disapproval.  (P.  492,  and 
also  Description  of  Aberdeen,  1661,  Old  Spalding  Club,  1842.) 

Notwithstanding  his  '  fantastic  etymology,'  as  Dr.  Mackay 
well  calls  it,  David  Buchanan  gives  an  etymology  of  the  old 
French  name  of  Edinburgh,  namely  Lisleburg,  that  is  ingenious, 
if  nothing  better,  and  that  would  have  interested  Dr.  Graves 
Law,  when  he  was  writing  about  that  name  in  the  Scottish 
Historical  Review,  1903.  Buchanan  says, 6  Galli  hanc  urbem 
vocitare  solebant  Laileburg  quasi  dicas  Burgum  alatum  :  nam 
aile  est  ala ;  sed  vulgus  Gallorum  male  pronunciat  Lisleburg.' 

David  Buchanan  may  be  accepted  without  any  hesitation  as 
the  author  of  these  two  Descriptions.  He  died  in  1652,  and 
the  date  of  the  Descriptions  must,  therefore,  be  somewhere 
between  1647  and  that  year.  It  cannot  be  earlier,  if  it  was 
written  to  accompany  the  plan  of  the  City  delineated  by  the 
Parson  of  Rothiemay  in  1647,  and  engraved  by  De  Witt. 

Buchanan    is    generally    regarded    as    a    man    of  learning 


1  PREFACE 

He  is  spoken  of  as  '  a  scholar  of  some  celebrity.' ]  Sibbald 
says  that  '  next  to  the  Gordons,  the  Father  and  the  Son, 
their  friend  Mr.  David  Buchanan  commeth  to  be  men- 
tioned, who  besides  what  he  wrott  relating  to  the  Scotia 
Antiqita  wrott  severall  Latine  descriptions  of  some  shyres.'2 
In  a  letter,  April  1650,  'Roberto  Gordonio  a  Stralochio,' 
Buchanan  says  : — 'Domino  Tarbettio  nonnullarum  regionum 
nostrarum  australium  descriptiones  dedi,  plures  (deo  dante) 
brevi  daturus.  Cum  amicis  in  Hollandia  ago,  ut  scripta 
tua  ad  me  remittantur '  (Old  Spalding  Club  Miscellany,  vol.  i. 
p.  44).  Robert  Gordon  and  Buchanan  thus  corresponded 
in  Latin,  and  the  latter  seems  to  have  been  well  fitted  to 
translate  into  Latin  such  Accounts  of  parts  of  Scotland  in 
English  as  reached  Blaeu,  who  almost  confines  himself  to  Latin 
in  his  Atlas  as  first  published.  According  to  Bishop  Nicolson, 
Buchanan  wrote  '  several  short  discourses  concerning  the 
antiquities  and  ch orography  of  Scotland,  which  in  bundles 
of  loose  papers,  Latin  and  English,  are  still  in  safe 
custody.' 3 

His  general  writings  were  held  in  esteem.  Among  them 
were  the  following : — (1)  A  short  view  of  the  present  condi- 
tion of  Scotland.  4°  Lond.  1645.  (2)  Relation  of  some 
main  passages  of  Things  wherein  the  Scots  are  particularly 
concerned,  from  the  very  first  Beginning  of  these  unhappy 
troubles  to  this  day.  12°  Lond.  1645. 

The  Description  of  Edinburgh  was  written  to  illustrate 
Gordon's  plan  of  the  city  of  Edinburgh,  1647,  of  earlier  date 
than  any  trustworthy  plan  of  the  City  known  to  exist — with  the 
exception,  perhaps,  of  two  sketches  of  the  previous  century  : — 
one,  1544,  among  the  Cottonian  MSS.  in  the  British  Museum, 
and  reproduced  in  the  Bannatyne  Club  Miscellany  ( vol. i. p.  185)  ; 
and  the  other,  1573,  representing  the  siege  of  Edinburgh  Castle, 


1  Old  Spalding  Club  Miscellany,  vol.  i.  p.  35. 

2  Repertory  of  Manuscripts,  p.  22.  'J  Scot.  Hist.  Lib.,  p.  16. 


PREFACE  li 

given  in  HolinshecTs  Chronicle  (1577,  London),  and  reproduced 
in  the  Bannatyne  Club  Miscellany  (vol.  ii.  p.  74). 

Neither  the  Description  of  the  City,  nor  that  of  the  Shire, 
appears  in  Blaeifs  Scottish  volume. 

Gordon's  View  of  Edinburgh  was  re-engraved  for  Pierre  van 
der  Aa's  La  Galerie  A gr table  du  monde  (Gough's  Brit.  Top., 
vol.  ii.  p.  673).  It  was  also  published  in  1710 ;  afterwards  in 
Edinburgh  by  Robert  Kirkwood  in  1817;  and  later  still,  in 
facsimile  of  De  Witt's  engraving,  by  W.  and  A.  K.  Johnston 
in  Edinburgh,  1865. 

An  entry  at  page  11  of  SibbahTs  Latin  Advertisement  (1683) 
of  his  projected  Atlas  and  Description  of  Scotland  causes  some 
difficulty.  It  runs  as  follows  :  4  Edinburgi  Descriptio,  Auctore 
ejusdem  clarissimi  viri  [Robert  Gordon]  filio  Ecclesiae  Rothie- 
maiensis  Rectore,  qua?  Anglica  lingua  composita  est.**  This 
looks  as  if  James  Gordon  had  himself  written  in  English  a 
Description  of  Edinburgh  for  his  map  or  view  of  that  city. 
Sibbald  gives  the  above  among  the  '  Scriptorum  Opera  in  lucem 
Edita,  quae  Scotiae  Historian!  illustrant,  et  quae  ad  manus  meas 
pervenerunt/  Perplexities  of  this  nature  have  been  of  frequent 
occurrence  during  the  editing  of  this  volume. 


Hi  NOTES 


NOTES 

IN  preparing  the  first  volume  of  the  Macfarlane  Collections, 
I  made  Notes  of  such  things  as  interested  me,  and  I  drew 
these  Notes  together,  in  the  hope  that  they  might  prove 
useful.  I  have  made  similar  Notes  in  reading  the  second 
volume,  and  I  now  bring  them  together,  classifying  them  under 
the  same  headings,  so  far  as  that  is  possible.  The  items  differ 
somewhat  in  character  from  those  in  volume  i.,  as  might  be 
expected  from  what  has  been  said  about  the  general  differences 
between  the  contents  of  the  two  volumes.  I  have  given  the 
page  where  each  item  occurs. 

PARISH  CHURCH  FABRICS. 

1.  The  Presbyterie  of  Mayboll  has  '  Nyne  churches  all  of 
them  built  of  good  free  stone  and  covered  with  sMeit."1    (P.  18.) 

2.  Panbryd.     Earl  Panmuir  has  '  a  loft  in  the  kirk  most 
sumptous  and  deli  cat.'     (P.  49.) 

3.  Glenmorristoune.     '  There  is  ane  litle  parish  Church  of 
timber  in  this  countrey  called  Millergheard."     (P.  171.) 

4.  Old  Aberdeen.    Machar  Church.    '  Nor  was  the  furniture 
out  of  keeping  [with  the  Church].     It  included  crosses,  chalices, 
ecclesiastical  vessels,  and  other  articles  of  that  sort,  made  of 
gold  or  silver,  adorned  with  many  various  and  costly  inlaid 
gems,  &  of  great  weight.    The  chasubles,  cassocks,  and  all  the 
priests1  vestments  .  .  .  were  of  silk,  .  .  .  embroidered  in  colours, 
and  gleaming  with  jewels  or  braided  with  gold.1     (P.  505.) 

FAIRS. 

1.  Brechine.     There  is  a  cattle,  horse,  and  sheep  fair  during 
'  the  whott  week  after  Whytsunday.'     (P.  40.) 


NOTES  liii 

2.  Borgue.    '  In  the  Kirkyard  of  Kirkanders  upon  the  ninth 
day  of  August,  there  is  a  fair  kept    called    Saint  Lawrence 
fair,  where  all  sorts  of  merchant  wares  are   to  be  sold,  but 
the  fair  lasts  only  three  or  four  houres,  and  then  the  people 
who   flock    hither   in    great    companies    driiik    and    debauch 
and  commonly  great  leudness  is  committed  here   at  this  fair.'1 
(P.  65.) 

3.  Wigton.     There  are  '  four  yearly  faires.  .  .  .  The  first  is 
called   Palm -fair,    which    begins    the   fifth   Monday   in    Lent 
and  lasts  two  days.     The  second  ...  St.  Albans  fair,  for  on 
the  seventeenth  day  of  June,  St.  Albans  day,  if  it  fall  upon 
a  friday,  or  if  not  so  the  next  fryday  thereafter,  they  have  a 
market  for  horses  and  young  Phillies.1   '  The  third  and  greatest 
fair  is  calPd  Lambmas  fair.1     '  The  fourth  is  their  Martinmas' 
fair,1  on  the  first  Monday  of  November.     (P.  73.) 

PHYSIC    AND    OTHER    WELLS. 

1.  About  a  mile  from  the  Kirk  of  Bootle  towards  the  north 
is  *  a  well,  called  the  rumbling  well,  frequented  by  a  multitude 
of  sick  people,  for  all  sorts  of  diseases  the  first  Sunday  of  May, 
lying  there  the  Saturday  night,  and  then  drinking  of  it  early 
in  the  morning.'' 

'  There  is  also  another  well  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant 
from  the  former,  towards  the  East,  this  well  is  made  use  of 
by  the  countrey  people  when  their  cattel  are  troubled  with 
a  disease  called  by  them  the  Connoch  ;  this  water  they  carry  in 
vessels,  to  many  parts,  and  wash  their  beasts  with  it,  and  give 
it  them  to  drink."1 

'  It  is  to  be  remembred  that  at  both  the  wells  they  leave 
behind  them  some  thing  of  a  thankofFering.  At  the  first  they 
leave  either  money  or  cloathes ;  at  the  second  they  leave  the 
bands  and  shades,  wherewith  beasts  are  usually  bound.1 
(P.  59.) 

2.  Borgue.     '  Half  a  mile  from  the  Ross  is  the  famous  well 


liv  NOTES 

of  Kessickton,  medicinal,  as  it  is  reported,  for  all  sorts  of 
diseases,  the  people  hereabouts  flocking  to  it  in  the  summer- 
time.' (P.  65.) 

3.  Monnygaff.    Near  Larg  '  is  a  well  called  the  Gout- well  of 
Larg,  of  which  they  tell  this  story,  how  that  a  Piper  stole  away 
the  offering  left  at  this  well  .  .  .  but  when  he  was  drinking 
of  ale,  which  he  intended  to  pay  with  the  money  he  had  taken 
away,  the  gout  as  they  say,  seized  on  him,  of  which  he  could 
not  be  cur'd  but  at  that  well,  having  first  restored  to  it  the 
money  he  had  formerly  taken  away.1     (P.  70.) 

4.  Mochrum.     White  Loch  of  Myrton.      'I  deny  not  but 
the  water  thereof  may  be  medicinal  .  .  .  yet  still  I  cannot 
approve  the  frequenting  [of  it]  ...  the  first  Sunday  of  the 
Quarter  viz.  the  first  Sunday  of  February,  May,  August,  and 
Novr.,  although  many  foolish  people  affirm  that  not  only  the 
water  of  this  Loch,  but  also  many  other  springs  and  wells  have 
more  vertue  on  those  days  than  any  other?     (P.  87.) 

5.  Kirkcolme.     At  the  side  of  the  chapel  '  there  is  a  well 
to    which   people    superstitiously   resort,  to  fetch    water   for 
sick  persones  to  drink  and  they  report  that  if  the  person's 
disease  be  deadly  the  well  will  be  so  dry  that  it  will  be  difficult 
to  get  water,  but  if  the  person  be  recoverable,  then  there  will 
be  water  enough/     (P.  94.) 

6.  Portpatrick.     '  About   a   mile   and   an  halfe   from    the 
parish  Kirk  is  a  well  call'd  Muntluckwell,  it  is  in  the  midst 
of  a  litle  Bogg,  to  which  well  severall  persons  have  recourse  to 
fetch   water  for  such   as  are    sick   asserting  that  if  the  sick 
person  shall  recover,  the  water  will  so  buller  and  mount  up, 
when  the  Messinger  dips  in  his  vessel,  that  he  will  hardly  get 
out  dry  shod  by  reason  of  the  overflowing  of  the  well  but  if 
the  sick  person  be  not  to  recover,  then  there  will  not  be  any 
such  overflowing  in  the  least."     (P.  97.) 

7.  Portpatrick.     In  the  Laird  of  Logan's  land  '  there  is  a 
rock  at  the  seaside  .  .  .  which  is  continually  dropping  both 
winter  and  summer,  which  drop  hath  this  quality  .  .  .  that  if 


NOTES  Iv 

any  person  be  troubled  with  chine-cough,  he  may  be  infallibly 
cured  by  holding  up  his  mouth  and  letting  this  drop  fall 
therein/  (P.  97.) 

8.  Lochgreveren.    '  Where  the  Chappell  stands,  there  is  verie 
manie  fresh  springs  and  fountaine  waters.     And  sundrie  and 
divers  multitudes  of  men  and  woemen  from  all  Countries  doe 
con  vein  and  gather  togidder  to  this  Chappell  in  the  springtyme 
one  day  before  St.  Patrickmess  day  and  drinking  everie  one 
of  them  of  this  springand  fresh  water  alleadges  that  it  shall 
recover  them  to  their  healthes  againe,  of  the  sicknes  or  desease 
which  they  have  before  their  comeing  to  that  place  and  uses 
the  same  yearlie,  once  a  time  in  the  year  certaine  of  them  doth 
come  for  pilgrimadge,  and  certane  others  in  respect  of  their 
sickness  bygone  .  .  .  or  present? 

.  .  .  '  There  is  one  fountaine  springing  out  of  the  sand  in  the 
sea,  of  fresh  water,  not  ane  my  11  distant  from  the  sanctuarie  or 
holie  Chappell  in  a  toune  called  Ardnacloch  which  when  anie 
in  these  pairts  are  sick,  if  the  sick  dieth,  a  dead  worme  is  found 
in  the  bottome  of  the  water  or  fountaine  and  if  the  sick  shall 
recover  a  quick  worme  is  found  in  it.1  (P.  154.) 

9.  Wrquhattane.     '  In  the  midle  of  this  Countrey  there  is 
a  fresh  water  Logh,'  and  *  there  is  one  litle  chappell  at  this 
Loghsyde  in  Wrquhattane  which  is  call  Kil  Saint  Ninian.  and 
certaine  hieland  men  and  woemen  doeth  travell  to  this  chap- 
pell at  a  certane  tyme  of  the  zeare  expecting  to  recover  there 
health  againe  and  doeth  drink  of  certaine  springand  wells  that 
is  next  to  the  Chappell;     (P.  172.) 

10.  Illand   of   Awin.     Kintyre.     There   is    a   well   *  called 
St.    Ninians   Well   and   it   doth    recover    severall    men   and 
women  which  doeth   drink    therof,   to   their   health   againe/ 
(P.  187.) 

11.  The  Lewis.     There  is  a  well  in  a  '  place  called  Chader, 
the  water  wherof  if  it  be  brought  and  drunk  be  a  seek  man  he 
sail  immediatlie  dye  or  recover. /     (P.  214.) 


Ivi  NOTES 

DEDICATIONS  OF  CHURCHES  AND  CHAPELS. 

1.  In  Mayboll  there  is  an  '  old  chappell  called  Kirkbryde.1 
(P.  8.) 

2.  In    Barre   there   is   a   'chappell    called    Kirk    Domine." 
(P.  19.) 

3.  In  Arbroath— 'Lady  Chappie1  and  '  St.  Ninians  Chappie.' 
(P.  46.) 

4.  Forfar.     'Panbryd  alias  St.  Brigid.''     (P.  48.) 

5.  Bootle.    '  The  Kirk  was  of  old  called  Kirkennen/   (P.  58.) 

6.  Borgue.     '  In  the  Kirkyard  of  Kirkanders.'     (P.  65.) 

7.  Kirkmabreck.      'So   called    from    some   saint  or  other, 
whose  name  they  say  was  McBreck,  a  part  of  whose  statiie  in 
wood,  was  about  thirty  years  since,  in  ane  old  Chapel  at  the 
ferrietoun  .  .  .  the  parish  Kirk  was  then  [thirty  years  before] 
built  at  the  said  Chapel,  and  therefore  the   parish  is  some- 
times also  called  the  Ferritoun.'     (P.  67.)    [?  Mabreck.] 

8.  Penygham.    Church  bell  '  dedicat  ...  to  Saint  Ninian 
in  the  thousand  year  after  the  birth  of  Christ.''     (P.  75.) 

9.  Mochrum.     '  In  this  parish  .  .  .  about  three  miles  dis- 
tance from  the  Kirk  ...  is  a  little  ruinous  chapel  call'd  by 
the  Countrey  people  Chapel  Finzian.1     (P.  88.) 

10.  Glenluce.      '  Midway  betwixt  Balcarrie  and  Schinner- 
ness  .  .  .  there  is  an   old   chapel  or  Kirk,  called  Kirkchrist 
but  now  it  is  ruinous.1     (P.  90.) 

11.  Kirkcolme.     '  About  a  mile  and  an  half  from  the  Kirk, 
in  the  way  betwixt  it  and  Stranraver  there  was  of  old  a  Chapel 
called  Killemorie  but  now  wholly  ruinous. '     (P.  93.) 

12.  Barray.    '  Ane  litle  Chappell  called  Kilmoir.1    (P.  178.) 

13.  '  There   is   one    litle    Chappell    at    this    Loghsyde   in 
Wrquhattane  which  is  call  Kil  Saint  Ninian/     (P.  172.) 

14.  'There  is  a  church  in  Harie  in  the  toune  of  Rovidill 
and  there  is  a  litle  toure  in  this  toune  named  by  ane  Saint 
called    Cleamean   which    is   in   English    called    St.    Cleaman." 
(P.  181.) 


NOTES  Ivii 

15.  Haray.      'Ther   is   a   paroch    church    in    Haray    cald 
Rovidil  and  a  small  tour  in  that  town,  named  after  the  Saint 
Cleaman,  in  English  Clement/     (P.  531.) 

16.  Kyi,  Ayr.      '  S.  Kebets  kirk  4  m.  up  the  water  on  the 
northsyd.1    (P.  587.) 

17.  The  highest  of  the  hills  on  which  Aberdeen  is  built 
k  takes  its  name  from  St.  Catherine's  Chapel.''     (P.  495.) 

18.  Aberdeen.      Castell  razed  to  the  ground  '  and  in  its 
place    the    [townsmen]    built    a    chapel    sacred   to    Ninian."1 
(P.  499.) 

19.  Aberdeen.     Futtie.     Clement's  Church.     (P.  502.) 

20.  Old  Aberdeen.    At  some  little  distance  from  the  College 
are  the  ruins  of   a  parish    Church,  formerly  called   that  of 
St.  Mary  at  the  Snows.     (P.  508.) 

21.  Aberdeen.     The  Spital  Church  had   St.  Peter  for  its 
tutelar  Saint.     (P.  508.) 


PLACE-NAMES. 

1.  Terregles.     By  some  said  to  be  4  Terra  regalis,'  by  others 
'  Tertia  Ecclesia,'  and  by  others  '  Terra  Ecclesia,' '  so  that  it 
should  be  spelPd  perhaps  Tereglise.'     (P.  55.) 

2.  Kirkgunnion  or  Kirkgunguent.     (P.  56.) 

3.  Rerick  also  called  Monk  ton  Parish.     (P.  58.) 

4.  Dundranen  should  be  called  Dungreggen,  because  situ- 
ated on  the  rivulet  called  Greggen.     (P.  58.) 

5.  Kirkmabreck.      '  So   called    from  some   saint   or   other, 
whose  name  they  say  was  McBreck.'     (P.  67.)    [?  Mabreck.] 

6.  Monnygaffe.       '  Munnachs    gulfe    from    the    river    of 
Munnach  in  this  parish.1     (P.  68.) 

7.  Skye.     '  The  promontaries  thereof  are  stretched  into  the 
sea  like  wings  for  which  it  is  called  by  some  Writers  Alata 
since   the   word   Skia  in  the  old  language  signifies  a  wing.' 
(P.  220.) 


Iviii  NOTES 

8.  The  name  Crage-alaachie  given  as  meaning  '  the  devyd- 
ing  crag/     (P.  573.) 

9.  'Vijsk    Alyin"*    given    as    meaning   'pleasant   streams.1 
(P.  596.) 

10.  '  Lekanachailuy '  given  as  meaning  the 'Broom  Bank." 
(P.  597.) 

11.  'Cory  na    bruick'   given    as    meaning   the   'Cory   of 
Grilds/     (P.  599.) 

12.  ' Mony-nedy '   given   as   meaning   'Moss   of  Armour."1 
(P.  597.) 

13.  Dalrawer  upon    Tay  given   as   meaning  '  fatt    haugh.' 
(P.  599.) 

14.  '  Ylen  na  Bock  '  given  as  meaning  '  goat  yland."1  (P.  602.) 

15.  '  Nowach '  given  as  meaning  '  old  yl  of  lambs/   (P.  603.) 

16.  Stratheiren.       '  Loichscoilk  '   given    as    meaning   '  the 
cloven  stone/     (P.  607.) 

17.  'Craig  na   en1  given   as   meaning   'the   birds   wood."1 
(P.  607.) 

18.  Jura.     '  IllandnaGowre,  which  is  by  interpretation  the 
goattllland:     (P.  191.) 

WATERS  THAT  DO  NOT  FREEZE. 

1.  Mochrum.     White  Loch  of  Myrton  is  'very  famous  in 
many  writers,  who  report  that  it  never  freezeth  in  the  greatest 
frosts;    whether  it  had  that  vertue  of  old  I  know   not,  but 
sure  I  am    it   hath   not  now    for   this  same  year  it  was    so 
hard  frozen   that  the  heaviest  carriages    might  have  carried 
over  it/     (P.  87.) 

2.  Loch    Mulruy.     Lochew.     'This   fair  Loch   is   reported 
never  to  freze.'     (P.  540.) 

NATURAL  OJUECTS — ANIMALS,  PLANTS,  ETC. 

1.  Carrict.  May  boll.  A  Jackdaw  and  a  Magpie  paired  and 
brought  forth  young — '  more  the  Jackdaw  than  the  Magpie.' 
(P.  10.) 


NOTES  lix 

2.  Wigton.    '  Henbane  grows  also  very  plentifully  in  the  town 
through  the  streets,  and  upon  every  dunghill  there.'     (P.  73.) 

3.  Urquattin.     '  In  the  midle  of  this  Countrey  there  is  a 
fresh  water  Logh  and  abundance  of  fish  are  slaine  with  lynes 
in  all  tymes  of  the  zeare.'     (P.  172.) 

4.  Heysker.    'The  inhabitants  of  the  Countrey  doe  meet 
and  gather  themselves  togidder  once  in  the  yeare  upon  ane 
certaine  tyme  in  faire  and  good  weather  and  bring  bigg  trees 
and  stafs  in  ther  hands  with  them  as  weapons  to  kill  the  selchis 
which  doeth  Innumerable  conveen  and  gather  to  that  Illand  at 
that  tyme  of  the  yeare.     And  so  the  men  and  the  selchis  doe 
fight  stronglie     And  there  will  be  Innumerable  seiches  slaine 
wherwith    they   loaden   ther   boatts,    which    causes    manic  of 
them    oftymes    perish    and     droune    in    respect    that    they 
loaden  ther  boatts  with  so  manie  selchis/     (P.  181.) 

5.  Lewis.     River   out   of  Lochbravais.     'There   was  thrie 
thousand   bigg  salmond    slayne   in    this  river '   '  but   halff  a 
myll  in  length  '  '  in  anno  1585.'     (P.  185.) 

6.  Lewis.    Forest  of  Cadsoill  or  Cadfield.    ' The  Deir  which 
doeth   remaine  in  this  Mountaine  or  forrest  hath  two  tayles."1 
(P.  185.) 

7.  '  There  will  be  monstrous  bigg  adders  or  serpents  sein  in 
this  Countrey  or  Illand  of  Jura.'     (P.  191.) 

8.  Skye.     Sleat.     '  Locheafort  which  excells  all  other  Lochs 
for  the  bigness  of  its  herring.'     (P.  221.) 

9.  Edir-da-cheulis.    '  At  the  small  loch  of  Stacky  there  is  a 
wooded  track  where  all  the  stags  are  found  with  forked  tails.' 
(P.  456.) 

10.  'Anno  1620  in  the  beginning  of  August,  the  people  of 
the  countrey  were  building  a  bridge  over  the  Airkaig,  at  the  end 
of  the  work  they  report  they  saw  an  infinit  number  of  adders 
swymming  upon  the  water,  a  litle  above  the  bridge,  leaping 
theron,  wherof  many  landing  creeped  away  throch  the  grass 
and  hather,  to  the  great  terrour  of  the  beholders.'     (P.  524.) 

11.  He    Scalpa.      'It    hath    also    wild    sheep,    which    evir 


Ix  NOTES 

keep    the    fields,   contrair   to   the   use    of    thois    countreys.' 
(P.  531.) 

12.  '  Ther  is  a  great  forest  about  that  place  on  the  south - 
syd  of  Lewis,  consisting  of  a  great  mountayne  cald  Cadsoil  or 
Cadfeild,  the  deer  of  this  mountaine  all  have  two  tayls,  wherby 
they  are  discerned  from  the  rest.'     (P.  533.) 

13.  Lewis.    'Ther  is  a  place  not  far  of  called  Runacabaigh 
wher  are  taken  a  kynd  of   small  fishe,  which  hath  four  feet 
lyk   a   lyzard.      it    is    thick    bodied    and    reidish    coloured.' 
(P.  533  and  P.  185.) 

14.  Strath   navir.     '  Specially  heir  never  lack  wolves ',  more 
then  ar  expedient.1     (P.  559.) 

15.  Loch-muy.     '  In    this   Loch   are  founde   trowts   called 
Reedwynes  [sic]  taken  only  betwix  Michelmess  and  Hallow- 
mess.1    (P.  607.) 

16.  River  Dee,  Galloway.     '  In  this  river  about  Balmaghie 
are  sometimes  gotten  excellent  pearles.'     (P.  109.) 

17.  Cree  River,  Galloway.    '  In  that  part  of  this  river  which 
divides  Cammonel  from  Mony gaffe  I  have  seen  severall  pearles 
taken  out  of  the  great  muscle.'     (P.  110.) 

18.  Galloway.     Here  they  till  ordinarily  '  with  oxen,  some 
only  with  eight  oxen,  but  usually  they  have  ten.'     (P.  102.) 

19.  '  In  the  parish  of  Monnygaffe  there  is  ane  excrescence, 
which  is  gotten  off  the  Craigs  there,  which  the  countrey  people 
make  up  into  balls,  .  .  .  this  they  call  Cork  lit  and  make  use 
thereof  for  litting  or  dying  a  kind  of  purple  colour.'     (P.  106.) 

20.  There  is  also  in  Monnygaffe  parish  fc  another  excrescence 
which  they  get  from  the  roots  of  trees,  and  call  it  Woodraw,  it 
is  a  kind  of  fog  or  moss  with  a  broad  leaf,  this  they  make  use  of 
to  lit  or  dy  a  kind  of  Orange  or  Philamort  Colour.''     (P.  106.) 

21.  Church  of  Kilmorie.     '  In  this  town  there  is  one  spring- 
and  fresh   water,  in   which   water  there   are    two  black  litle 
fishes,  And  when  they  see  anie  coming  hither  .  .  .  they  will  hide 
themselves  underneath  a  broad  stone  .  .   .  The  saids  fishes  as 
the  Inhabitants  of  that  tonne  report,  was  wont  to  take  this 


NOTES  Ixi 

stone  for  their  saiftie  and  refuge  .  .  .  and  they  are  seen  verie 
oft  in  the  said  well  both  winter  and  summer  and  all  other 
tymes  of  the  yeare."  '  The  saids  fishes  hes  bein  ever  seen 
being  neither  more  nor  less  in  bigness  nor  yet  having  increas- 
ing nor  decreasing  of  procreatione  .  .  .  but  ever  since  they 
wer  aither  seen  or  knowen,  being  of  one  bignes  of  one  colour, 
which  they  doe  take  as  a  miracle  .  .  .  And  therefore  the  In- 
habitants Indwellers  and  tennants  ...  in  that  place  doe  call 
the  saids  fishes  Eisgseant  that  is  to  say  holie  fishes:  (P.  151.) 
22.  On  a  Hill  one  mile  from  Inche  it  is  said  that  there  are 
4  Sheep  feeding  there  remarkable  for  gilded  teeth."1  (P.  299.) 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

1.  Girvan.     Knock  Oshin,  a  sandy  know,  is  said  to  be  the 
place  'upon  which  the  Head  Courts  of  this  Jurisdiction  are 
kept  and  held"1 — 'in  the  feild  tyke  a  rendee  vous  of  souldiers."1 
(P.  14.) 

2.  Kirkmabreck.     'In   Camerotmtiir  in  the  said  parish  of 
Kirkdale'  [annext  to  Kirkmabreck]  'about  a  mile  from   the 
said    Kirk    northward  there  is  a  stone  four  or  five  foot  in 
diameter,  called  the  Pennystone,  under  which  money  is  fancied 
to  be  ;  this  stone  hath  upon  it  the  resemblance  of  that  draught 
which  is  commonly  called  the  walls  of  Troy.1     (P.  67.) 

3.  Marriages    in    Galloway   take    place    on    Tuesdays    or 
Thursdays.     Out  of  four  hundred  and  fifty  marriages  by  the 
Rev.  Andrew  Symson  all  but  seven  were  on  these  days.     '  For 
the  most  part  also  their  marriages  are  all  celebrated  crescente 
Luna:    (P.  118.) 

4.  Betwixt  the  watermouth  of  Devern  and   the  church  of 
Raithen  '  are  severall  verie  great  heaps  of  stones.'     One  called 
Cairnbo, '  'twixt  29  and  30  foots  high.1     (P.  137.) 

5.  Glengarne.     ( The  stone  of  the  Ridge  of  Scotland,1 '  in 
the  midst  of  Scotland,' '  the  mid  part  of  Scotland.1     (P.  169.) 

6.  '  On    the   east    or    southeastsyde    of   Loghnes    next    to 


Ixii  NOTES 

Abirtarff  there  is  a  conn  trey  which  is  called  Straharriggaick 
And  it  is  alleadged  this  countrey  is  the  highest  countrey  in 
Scotland  ...  it  [is]  as  it  were  upon  a  mountaine  above 
all  other  Countreys/  (P.  172.) 

7.  '  On  the  Northwest  syde  of  this  river  [Nearne]  at  the 
mouth  of  it  almost  at  the  seasyde  there  is  ane  ancient  litle 
burgh  called  Invernearne  .  .  .  And  there  is  ane  litle  burgh 
laitlie  builded  not  two  myles  from  Invernearn  called  Alterne. 
The  Inhabitants  of  that  toune  come  to  Invernearn  with  certain 
companie  and  brake  the  cross  of  that  antient  toune  and  did 
cast  it  down  and  hes  friedome  themselves  now.1     (P.  173.) 

8.  Barray.     '  On   the   Southend    or    southwest    there    are 
severall  litle  Illands  .  .  .  The  Master  or  Superior  of  these 
Illands   hath    in   due   payment    from    the    Inhabitants    and 
tennants  of  the  saids  Illands/or  his  dewtie.  the  halfofther  .  .  . 
comodities,  which  does  Incres  or  grow  to  them  in  the  yeare, 
And  hath  ane  officer  or  serjeant  in  everie  I  Hand  to  uptake 
the  samen/     (P.  177.) 

9.  Barray.     'Everie  husbandman  in  the  countrey  hes  ane 
Instrument  in  their  houses  called  one  Kewrne  and   the  two 
stones  doth  lye  on  the  house  floore,  and  that  place  is  made 
cleane/     (P.  179.) 

10.  Wist.     '  Ancient  men  in  that  Countrey  were  reportand 
that  there  is  much  of  the  lands  of  Wist  overwhelmed  and  de- 
stroyed with  the  sea,  and  the  sand  doeth  How  with  the  winde 
and  destroyes  both  the  lands  and  hyds  the  houssis  below  the 
sand,  and  so  the  most  pairt  of  the  Countrie  is  overwhelmed 
with  sand/     (P.  180.) 

11.  Wist.     'This  Church   [Kilpettell]    is   below   the   sands 
except  foure  or  fy  ve  foot  length  of  the  pinnacle  of  that  church 
And  the  pairt  of  there  houses  which  are  nearest  the  seasyde 
for  the  Wind  doth  blow  up  the  sand  upon  the  lands  and  the 
churches    were   destroyed    with    the   sea    which    were   princi- 
pall  Churches  of  Ancient.    Certaine  of  them  will  be  seen  when 
the  sea  ebbs  in  the  summer  tyme.     And  the  Countrie  people 


NOTES  Ixiii 

will  take  Lobsters  out  of  the  windowes  of  the  Pinnacle  of 
that  which  was  first  called  Killpettill  before  it  was  destroyed 
by  the  sea/  (P.  180.) 

12.  Jura.     '  Upon  the   westsyde  above  the  sea  there  is  a 
number  of  great  Coves  ...  In  tyme  of  stormie  weather  and 
in  tyme  of  great  tempest  of  snow  the  deir  doth  lodge  in  these 
Coves. '    '  The  M°Donalds  and  the  Mcleans  in  ancient  tyme, 
when  they  wer  wont  to  come  to  Jura  to  hunt,  they  did  lodge 
in  these  Coves  with  their  companies."1    (P.  191.) 

13.  '  There  is  bot  two  myles  from  Inverloghie  the  Church 
of  Kilmalie  in  Loghyeld.     In  antient  tymes  there  was  ane 
church  builded  upon  ane  hill,  which  was  above  this  church, 
which  doeth  now  stand  in  this  toune.  and  ancient  men  doeth 
say  that  there  was  a  battell  foughteon  on  ane  litle  hill  not  the 
tenth  part  of  a  myle  from  this  Church  be  certaine  men  which 
they  did  not  know  what  they  were.     And  long  tyme  therefter 
certaine  herds  of  that  toune  and   of  the   next  toune  called 
Annaff  both  wenches  and  youthes  did  on  a  tyme  conveen  with 
others  on  that  hill.     And  the  day  being  somewhat  cold,  did 
gather  the  bones  of  the  dead  men  that  were  slayne  long  tyme 
before  in  that  place,  and  did  make  a  fire  to  warm  them,  at 
last  they  did  all   remove  from   the  fire,  except  one  maid  or 
wench  which  was  verie  cold,  and  she  did  remaine  there  for  ane 
space.     She  being  quyetlie  her  alone  without  anie  other  com- 
panie  took  up  her  cloaths  above  her  knees  or  therby  to  warme 
her  awhile,  [the  wind]  did  come  and  caste  the  ashes  below 
her  cloaths,  and  some  of  the  same  entering  into  her  privie 
member  she  was  conceived  of  ane  Manchild.     Severall  tymes 
therefter  she  was  verie  sick  and  at  last  she  was  knowne  to  be 
with  chyld.     And  then  her  parents  did  ask  at  her  the  matter 
heiroff,  which  the  Wench  could  not  weel  answer.  ...  As  fortune 
fell  upon  her  concerneing  this  marvellous  miracle,  the  chyld 
being  borne,  his  name  was  called   Gille  dow  Maghre-vollich 
That  is  to  say  the  black  child,  son  to  the  bones  so  called.    His 
grandfather  and  friends  send  him  to  the  schooll,  and  so  he 


Ixiv  NOTES 

was  a  good  sehollar  and  godlie,  he  did  build  this  Church  which 
doeth  now  stand  in  Lochyeld  called  Kilmalie.1     (P.  162.) 

[The  foregoing  Extract  is  printed  by  Sir  Walter  Scott  as 
one  of  the  Notes  to  The  Lady  of  the  Lake,  Canto  iii.,  with 
reference  to  the  birth  of  the  Monk  Brian. — ED.] 

14.  Kirk  of  Kilmaillie.     'The  people   report  of  a  battell 
focht  in  old  tymes  hard  by  thar  Church,  and  how  long  after, 
hirds  feeding  ther  cattell  in  that  place,  in  a  cold  season,  made 
a  fyre  of  dead   mens  bones   ther   scattered,    who    being   all 
removed  except  one  mayd  who  took  up  her  cloaths  and  un- 
covered hirself  sum  part  here,    a  sudden  whirlwind  threw  sum 
of  the  ashes  in  her  privie  member,     whereupon  she  conceaved 
and  bore  a  sone  called  Gillie  dow-mak  Chravolick  that  is  to 
say  the  black  chyld  sone  to  the  bonis,  who  after  becam  learned 
and  relligious  and  built  this  Churche  whiche  now  standeth  in 
Kilmaillie'    (P.  520.) 

15.  Glen  Garry.     '  Ther  is  a  little  Strath  .  .  .  calPd  Achad- 
rome  supposed  be  the  people  therabout  to  be  the  middle  part 
of  Scotland  be  the  length:     (P.  523.) 

16.  Isles  of  St.  Flannan.      '  It  is  for  certaintie  that  upon  a 
tyme   a  Countriefellow   being    sent  there  and  left  in  it,  be 
reason  he  could  not  be  keept  from  thift  and  robberie,  and  so 
on  a  time  the  fire  went  out  with  him,  without  which  he  could 
not  live,  and  so  despaired  of  life  and  since  he  saw  that  there  was 
no  remead,  he  betook  him  to  pray  both  to  God  and  the  Sainct 
of  the  Island  as  they  termed  it  and  by  night  being  fallen  in  a 
deep  sleep,  he  sees  a  man  come  to  him  well  clade  saying  aryse, 
betake  thee  unto  the  Altar  and  there  thou  shalt  find  a  peate 
in  fyre  for  the  Lord  hath  heard  thy  prayer.     So  he  arose  and 
accordingly  found  the  fyre,  which  he  preserved  untill  he  was 
taken  home,  and  henceforth  he  proved  as  honest  a  man  as  was 
in  the  countrie/     (P.  211.) 

17.  The  Lewis.     Standing  Stones.     'It  is  left  by  tradition 
that  these  were  a  sort  of  men  converted  into  stones  by  ane 
Iiifhanter.      others  affirme  that  they  were  sett  up  in  places 


NOTES  Ixv 

for  devotione,  but  the  places  where  they  stand  are  so  far  from 
anie  such  sort  of  stons  to  be  seen  or  found  either  above  or 
under  ground,  that  it  cannot  but  be  admired  how  they  could 
be  carried  there/  (P.  213.) 

18.  The  Lewis.     'The  first  and  most  antient  Inhabitants 
of  this  Countrie  were  three  men  of  three  severall  races,  viz. 
Mores  the  son  of  Kenannus  whom  the  Irish  historiance  call 
Makurich  whom  they  make  to  be  Naturall  Sone  to  one  of  the 
Kings  of  Noruvay.  some  of  whose  posteritie  remains  in  the  land 
to  this  day.     All  the  Morisones  in  Scotland  may  challenge 
there    descent    from    this    man.       The    second    was    Iskair 
Mac.Awlay  ane  Irish  man  whose  posteritie  remain  likvise  to 
this  day  in  the  Lews.     The  third  was  Macknaicle  whose  onlie 
daughter  Torquill  the  first  of  that  name  (and  sone  to  Claudius 
the  sone  of  Olipheous,  who  likewise  is  said  to  be  the  King  of 
Noruway  his  sone)  did  violentlie  espouse,  and  cutt  off  Immedi- 
atlie  the  whole  race  of  Macknaicle  and  possessed  himself  with 
the  whole  Lews  and   continueth  in  his   posteritie  (Macleud 
Lews)  dureing  13  or  14  generations  and  so  extinct  before,  or 
at  least  about  the  year  1600  the  maner  of  his  decay  I  omitt 
because  I  intend  no  historic  but  a  descriptione."*     (P.  214.) 

19.  The  Lewis.     '  There  is  a  little  island  hard  by  the  coast 
where  it  is  said  that  Pigmeis  lived  some  tyme  by  reason  they 
find   by  searching   some   small   bones   in   the    earth ;    but   I 
cannot  give  much  faith  to  it  since  greater  mens  bones  would 
consume  in  a  short  tyme  but  I  hold  them  to  be  the  bones  of 
small  fowls  which  abound  in  that  place.1     (P.  215.) 

20.  lona.     '  Here  is  yett  a  few  people  upon  the  Isle  called 
Ostiarij  from  their  Office  about  the  temple  who  is  observed 
never  to  exceed  8  in  number.1     (P.  217.) 

21.  Skye.     The  inhabitants  '  besides  ther  land   rents  ordi- 
narlie  send  gratis  to  ther  superiours  of  the  product  of  ther  land, 
of  all  sorts:     (P.  221.) 

22.  Glengarry.     '  There  is  a  small  town,  whair  a  chappell 
wes  built  of  old  not  two  myl  from  Kilmanevack,  wherin  the 

e 


Ixvi  NOTES 

oldest  men  declare  they  did  sie  in  this  chappel  which  is 
called  Achannathannait  many  inhabitants  of  that  town  selling 
wine,  ail,  aquavitse  the  Scots  quart  of  wine  for  18  pennies 
Scots  a  quart  of  aill.  a  quart  of  hasill.  nutts,  and  a  quart  of 
oat  meal  for  thrie  pennies  Scots.'  (P.  523.) 

23.  Uist.     ' The  Church  of  Kilmonie  is  now  called  Kilpetil, 
that  is  the  church  of  the  muir  for  so  it  lay  of  old  nearest  the 
muirs,  but  now   the  sea  and  the  sands  have   approched  it, 
there  be  sum  remaynes  of  the  destroyed  Churches  yit  to  be 
seen,  at  low  tydes  or  Ebbing  water.'     (P.  530.) 

24.  Uist.      'The  oldest  men  report  this  Isle  to  be  much 
empayred  and  destroyed  be  the  sands  ovirblowing  and  burieing 
habitable  lands,  and  the  sea  hath  followed  and  made  the  loss 
irreparable,  there  are  destroyed  the  tounes  and  paroch  churches 
of  Kilmarchirmoir  and  Kilpetil.'     (P.  530.) 

25.  Glen-Elcheg.     Combrich   Kirk,  'a   fair  hieland    kirk, 
wher  hath  bene  a  girth  or  asylum,  as  the    name  importeth 
its  cald  Apil-cors  kirk '     (P.  542.) 

26.  Badenoch.     6  Of  all  the  provinces  of  Scotland  furthest 
off  from  seas:     (P.  577.) 

27.  '  Fra  Duntraith  down  the  river  twa  myl  is  a  place  cald 
the   Mosse  on  the    south   or  South  west  syd.     heir  wes  Mr. 
George  Buquhanan  borne.''     (P.  580.) 

28.  Sir  Robert  Gordon  of  Straloch,  speaking  of  the  Stone 
Circles    of    Aberdeenshire,   says,    '  One   stone    conspicuous   by 
its  breadth,  facing  the  south,  .  .  .  seems  to  have  supplied  the 
place  of  an  altar."1     [An  early  reference  (before  1662),  to  the 
position   of    the    so-called    Altar    Stones    in    these    circles.] 
(P.  271  and  P.  304.) 

29.  'The   inhabitants   [of  Aberdeen    and    Banff]    are   the 
most  warlike  and  the  most  cultured  of  all  the  Scots '  who  have 
their  abodes  beyond  the  Grampian  range.     (P.  290.) 

30.  Aberdeen.     '  A  square  field  near  this  [the  Spa  water] 
of  old   supplied  the  place  of  a  theatre.     It    has   now   been 
changed  into  a  pleasant  suburban  garden  at  the  expense  of 


NOTES  Ixvii 

the  talented  George  Jamesone,  who  has  also  caused  a  museum, 
painted  by  his  own  hand,  to  be  built  in  the  same  place.' 
(P.  496.) 

SUPERSTITIONS. 

1.  Church  in  Barmy.     There  is  a  'Springand  fresh  water 
Well.*1     And  the  inhabitants,  both  men  and  women, '  say  that 
when   appearance  of  Warrs  wer  to  be  in  the  Countrey  of 
Barray  That  certaine  drops  of  blood  hath  oftymes  bein  sein 
in  this  Well/    (P.  177.) 

2.  Kilbarray.     '  in  this  toun  is  a  spring  of  fresche  water 
whilk  the  inhabitants  do   believe    doth   prognostique  warrs, 
when  they  are  to  be,  be  drops  of  blood  seen  therein.1     (P.  529 
and  P.  177.) 

3.  Barray.     Chappell  of  Kilmorie.     '  There  is  certaine  earth 
within  this  Chappell  which  if  anie  men  wold  came  the  samen 
with  him  to  the  sea,  And  if  the  wind  or  stormie  weather  were 
cruell  and  vehement  if  he  wold  caste  a  litle  of  this  earth  into 
the  sea  it  wold  pacifie  the  wind  and  the  sea  wold  grow  calme 
immediatlie.1     (P.  178.) 

4.  The  Lewis.     'There  is  a  strange  fountain  in    a   place 
called  Garrabost  the  water  of  which  being  put  with  either 
fish  or  flesh  in  a  pot  or  kettell,  it  will  not  boy  11  though  it 
were  never  so  long  keept  at  the  greatest  fyre."     (P.  213.) 

5.  Knapdale  or  Gnaptill  '  at  the  east  syd  therof  ther  is  a 
Ridge  of  mountayns,  sum  eight  myles  of  length  call'd  Slew- 
gaill,  wherof  the  inhabitants  have  opinion  that  ther  groweth 
ane  herb  therin,  which  if  so  ony  man  trod  upon,  it  bringeth 
hunger  and  fainting.'     (P.  513  and  P.  149.) 

6.  Lewis.    '  There  are  other  [nuts]  lesser  yett,  of  a  whitish 
coulour  and  round,  which  they  call  Sanct  Maries  Nutt  quhilk 
they  did  wear  in  the  same  manner  [about  their  necks],  holding- 
it   to   have    the   verteu  to  preserve  woemen  in  child  bearing? 
(P.  214.) 


Ixviii  NOTES 

Bows  AND  ARROWS  IN  BATTLE. 

1.  '  Att  the  end  of  this  Loghgruineord  in  the  yeare  of  God 
1597,  the  fourteenth  of  August  There  was  a  battell  foughten 
betwixt  Sir  James  McDonald  and  Sir  Laughlan  Mclean  of 
Duard,  wherin  Sir  Laughlane  and  thirteenscore  of  his  men 
were  killed  and  Sir  James  deidlle  shot  with  ane  arrow  and 
twentie  four  of  his  men  killed,  and  thriescore  hurt  all  with 
arrowes."1  (P.  190.) 


SCOTTISH  SCENERY  ADMIRED  IN  EARLY  TIMES. 

1.  Loch  Ew.    4  All  thir  bounds  is  compas'd  and  hemd  in  with 
many  hills  but  thois  most  beautifull  to  look  on.1     (P.  540.) 

2.  Connen  River,     'ruynesof  Fin-Mack-Coul,  upon  a  shoyr- 
hill  top,  having  a  gallant  prospect.'     (P.  552.) 

3.  Strath  Naver.     The  writer  speaks  of  4  the  great  green  sea 
upon  the  north.1     (P.  559.) 


SUCCESSFUL  HIGHLAND  SCHOOL. 

1.  The  Lewis.  School  at  Stornoway.  '  And  not  onlie  the 
people  of  the  Lews  but  also  those  of  the  nixt  adjacent  Isles, 
the  gentlemens  sons  and  daughters  are  bred  in  that  schooll  to 
the  great  good  and  comfort  of  that  people ;  so  that  there  are 
few  families  but  at  least  the  maister  can  read  and  write/ 
(P.  !>15.) 

CHURCH  HAND  BULL. 

1.  Whitherne.  In  the  church  founded  by  Saint  Ninian  and 
dedicated  by  him  to  St.  Martin,  '  there  is  a  little  hand  bell, 
.  .  .  which  in  Saxon  letters  tells  it  belongs  to  Saint  Martins 
church^  (P.  82.) 


NOTES  Ixix 


GOLF,  BYASSE  BOWLS,  AND  FOOTBALL. 

1.  Garnet,  Mayboll.      The   gentry  of  the  Country  'were 
wont  to  play  at  football  but  now  at  the  Gowffe  and  Byasse 
bowls.1     (P.  17.) 

2.  Aberdeen  Links.     'There  various  sports  are  practised, 
such  as  football,  golf,  and  bowls.'     (P.  503.) 


COUNTY  TOWNS  THE  WINTER  RESORTS  OF  THE  GENTRY. 

1.  Forfar   town.      'King  Malcome  Canmore   had   a  house 
and  lived  frequentlie  there.1     (P.  25.) 

2.  Carrict.     The  gentry  of  the  country  had  many  pretty 
buildings  in  Mayboll,  and   '  were   wont   to  resort  hither  in 
winter  and  divert  themselves  in  converse  together  at  their  owne 
houses/     (P.  17.) 

3.  Keith.     '  Very  many  gentlemen  of  lower  rank  and  some 
barons  have  houses  here.'     (P.  274.) 


How  DISTANCES  AND  DIRECTIONS,  EAST,  WEST,  NORTH,  AND 
SOUTH,  ARE  GIVEN. 

1.  Distances  are  given  '  as  the  Countrey  people  do  commonly 
estimate  the  same/     (P.  52.) 

2.  East,  West,  North,  South,  etc.,  only  mean    that  'the 
place  spoken  of  lyes  toward  that  part.1     (P.  52.) 


OLD  WEATHER  PROVERBS. 

1.  Anwoth.     'When  that  Cairnsmuir  hath  a  hat,  Palnure 
and  Skairsburn  laugh  at  that '  [1684].     (P.  67.) 

2.  Galloway.      '  When  the  days  beginne  to  lengthen,  the 
cold  beginnes  to  strengthen ? — that  is, '  Winter  never  comes  till 
Ware  comes.1     [Circa  1680.]     (P.  120.) 


Ixx  NOTES 

ACKNOWLEDGMENT  OF  INDEBTEDNESS. 

I  have  to  acknowledge  indebtedness  to  many  friends,  who 
have  given  me  assistance  in  the  editing  of  this  volume.  Mr. 
C.  G.  Cash,  who  knows  so  much  about  Timothy  Font's  maps, 
and  about  the  First  Topographical  Survey  of  Scotland,  has 
often  given  me  much  help.  Mr.  Alexander  Gow  has  furnished 
me  with  a  translation  into  English  of  the  Latin  Descriptions, 
which  I  believe  will  be  regarded  as  very  satisfactory.  He 
showed  as  much  patience  with  his  perplexing  Latin  text,  as  he 
showed  scholarship.  His  assistance  in  bringing  the  Latin 
into  presentable  form,  without  verbal  changes,  has  been  very 
valuable.  There  are  a  few  Hebrew  words  in  the  Description 
of  the  City  of  Edinburgh,  and,  in  regard  to  these,  the  Rev.  Dr. 
James  Kennedy  has  been  good  enough  to  give  me  assistance. 
Mr.  J.  T.  Clark  was  always  ready  to  give  me  help,  and  it  goes 
without  the  saying  that  all  through  the  work  I  was  constantly 
asking  and  receiving  advice  and  assistance  from  Dr.  Hay 
Fleming. 

I  am  conscious  of  many  failures  in  the  work  of  editing,  but 
I  think  I  have  been  successful  in  showing  how  the  items  of  this 
second  volume  stand  in  regard  to  Blaeu's  accomplished  and 
Sibbald's  projected  topographical  survey  of  Scotland.  There 
has  been  some  success  in  another  direction,  namely,  in  showing 
how  large  and  how  important  a  part  of  the  volume  has  already 
appeared  in  print,  either  before  or  since  Macfarlane's  time. 

ARTHUR  MITCHELL. 
THE  PLEAS  ANCE,  GULLANE, 
March  1907. 


CONTENTS 

(VOL.  II) 

( The  Headincis  are  closely  copied  from  the  MS. ) 

i.  A    DESCRIPTION    OF    CARRICT    by    Mi\    Abercrummie,       PAGE 

minister  at  Minibole,              ....  1 

1.  Mayboll  Parish,             .              .             .  .         16 

2.  Kirkmichael  Parish,       .               .              .  .19 

3.  Stratowne  Parish,           .              .              .  .19 

4.  Barre  Parish,     .              .              .              .  .19 

5.  Calmonell  Parish,           .              .              .  .20 

6.  Balantrae  Parish,           .              .              .  .          20 

7.  Girvan  Parish,  .              .   .          .             .  .         20 

8.  Daillie  Parish,  .              .              .              .  .          20 

9.  Kirkoswald  Parish,         .              .              .  .20 

ii.  INFORMATION  for  Sir  Robert  Sibbald  anent  the  SHYRE 

of  FORFAR  by  Mr.  Ouchterlony  of  Guinde,    .  .         21 

(a)  Presbetrie  of  For  far. 

1.  Forfar  Parish,    .              .              .  25 

2.  Kinnetles  Parish,           .              .  .26 

3.  Glames  Parish,                .              .              .  .          26 

4.  Inneraritie  and  Methie  Parish,               .  .         27 

5.  Dunichine  and  Aberlemno  Parish,        .  .          27 
Rescobie  Parish,             .              .              .  .28 
Tannadyce  Parish,          .              .              .  .          28 

8.  Cortaquhie  and  Clovay  Parish,               .  .          29 

9.  Kerremuir  Parish,          .              .              .  .          29 

(b)  Presbetrie  of  Dnndie. 

10.  Dundie  Parish,               .              .  .30 

11.  Monifieth  Parish,           .              .              .  .          32 

12.  Monikie  Parish,              .              .              .  .          32 

13.  Murrayes  Parish,            .                    .      .  .  .          32 

14.  Maynes  Parish,                .               .  33 


Ixxii  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

15.  Telling  Parish,               .              .              .  .33 

16.  Ouchterhous  Parish,      .              .          •   .  .33 

17.  Strathmartine  Parish,  .              .             .  .34 

18.  Lundie  Parish,                .              .              .  .34 

19.  Ben  vie  Parish,  .              .              .              .  .34 

(c)  Presbitrie  of  Meigle. 

20.  Keatnes  Parish,              .             .              .  .35 

21.  Newtyld  Parish,             .              .              .  .35 

22.  Eassie  and  Newoy  Parish           .              .  .35 

23.  Couper  Parish,  .              .              .              .  .35 

24.  Ruthvene -Parish,           .              .              .  .36 

25.  Over  and  Nether  Glenyla  Parish,          .  .         36 

26.  Nether  Airlie  Parish,    ....         36 

27.  Lentrathene  Parish,      .             .             .  .37 

28.  Kingoldrum  Parish,      ...  37 

(d)  Presbitrie  of  Brechine. 

29.  Oathlaw  Parish,  ....         37 

30.  Feme  Parish,    .              .              .              .  .38 

31.  Carraldstoune  Parish,   .              .              .  .38 

32.  Menmuir  Parish,            .              .              .  .38 

33.  Navar  Parish,    .              .              .              .  .38 

34.  Edzell  Parish,   .              .  39 

35.  Lethnet  Parish,              .              .              .  .39 

36.  Lochlie  Parish,  ....         39 

37.  Brechine  Parish,            .              .              .  .39 

38.  Strickathroe  Parish,      .              .              .  .40 

39.  Peart  Parish,     .                           .              .  .41 

40.  Logic  Parish,     .              .              .              .  .41 

41.  Dun  Parish,       .  ...         41 

42.  Montross  Parish,            .              .              .  .41 

43.  Marietoune  Parish,        .              .              .  .43 

44.  Kinnaird  Parish,             ...  43 

45.  Farnell  Parish, .              .  43 

(e)  Presbitrie  of  Arbroath. 

46.  Kinnell  Parish,              .  44 

47.  Innerkillor  Parish,         .  44 

48.  St.  Vigeans  Parish,       .  45 

49.  Aberbrothock  Parish,    .              .              .  .45 

50.  Arbirlot  Parish,                            .             .  47 


CONTENTS  Ixxiii 


PAGE 


51.  Carmyllie  Parish,  47 

52.  Idvie  Parish,     .....          47 

53.  Guthrie  Parish,  .  .  .  .47 

54.  Panbryd  Parish,  .  .  .  .48 

55.  Barrie  Parish,    .....          49 

(f)  Ancient  familes  in  the  Shyre,         .  .         50 

in.  A  LARGE  DESCRIPTION  OF  GALLOWAY  by  the  parishes  in 

it  by  Mr.  Andrew  Symson,   .  .  .  .51 

1.  Traqueer  Parish,  .  .  .  .53 

2.  New  Abbey  Parish,       .  .  .  .53 

3.  Kirkbeen  Parish,  .  .  .  .53 

4.  Cowend  Parish,  .  .  .  .54 

5.  Orr  Parish,         .....          54 

6.  Kirkpa trick  Durham  Parish,     .  .  .54 

7.  Kirkpatrick  Irongrey  Parish,     .  .  .55 

8.  Terregles  Parish,  .  .  .  .55 

9.  Lochmiton  Parish,         .  .  .  .56 

10.  Kirkgunnion  Parish,      .  .  .  .56 

11.  Kirkcudburgh  Parish,   .  .  .  .57 

12.  Rerick  Parish,  .  .  .  .  .58 

13.  Bootle  Parish,  .....         58 

14.  Kelton  Parish,  .....         59 

15.  Corsemichael  Parish,     .  .  .  .60 

16.  Partan  Parish,  ....  60 

17.  Balmaclellan  Parish,      .  .  .  .60 

18.  Dairy  Parish,     .....          6l 

19.  Corsefairne  Parish,         .  .  .  .62 

20.  Kells  Parish,     .....          62 

21.  Balmaghie  Parish,          .  .  .63 

22.  Tongueland  Parish,       .  .  .  .64 

23.  Twynam  Parish,  .  .  .  .64 

24.  Borgue  Parish, .....          65 

25.  Girthtoii  Parish,  .  .  66 

26.  Anwoth  Parish,  ...  66 

27.  Kirkmabreck  Parish,     ...  67 

28.  Monnygaflfe  Parish,        ...  68 

29.  Vigton  Parish,  .  72 

30.  Penygham  Parish,         .  75 

31.  Kirkinner  Parish, 

32.  Sorbie  Parish,    .  .  .  .  .81 


Ixxiv  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

33.  Whitherne  Parish,          .  .  .  .82 

34.  Glasserton  Parish,          ....          85 
.35.   Mochrum  Parish,  ....          86' 

36.  Kirkcowan  Parish,  .  .  .  .88 

37.  Glenluce  Parish,  .  .  .  .89 

38.  Inch  Parish,       .....          90 

39.  Stranraver  Parish,  .  .  .  .92 

40.  Kirkcolme  Parish,  .  .  .  .93 

41.  Las  wait  Parish,  .  .  .  .94 

42.  Portpatrick  Parish,  .  .94 

43.  Stoniekirk  Parish,  .  .  .  .95 

44.  Kirkmaiden  Parish,  .  .  .  .96 

(a)  Answer  to  Queries  concerning  Galloway,  .  .         99 

(b)  A  Generall  Description  of  the  Stewartrie  of  Kirk- 

cudbright, .  .  .  .  .128 

(c)  Of  the  Abbayes,  Priories,  and  Nunries  within  the 

Stewartrie  of  Kirkcudbright,        .  .  .132 

iv.  AN    ACCOUNT    OF    THE    NORTHSIDE    OF    THE    COAST    OF 

BUCK  AN  by  Alexander  Garden  of  Troup,       .  .133 

v.  ANE  DESCRIPTIONS  OF   CERTAINE   PAIRTS  OF  THE  HIGH- 
LANDS OF  SCOTLAND,  .  .  .  .  .144 

1.  Cowell,.  ...  .144 

2.  Inveraray,  .              .              .  ,              .145 

3.  Lochfyne,  .  .146 

4.  Loghow,  .              .  .  .              .       147 

5.  Knap-dal,  .        149 

6.  Terbert,  .  ...        150 

7.  Lome,  ....  .151 

8.  Kilmoire,  .  151 

9.  Mucarne,  .                            .  .              .152 

10.  Killespick,  .  .152 

11.  Beandirlogh,  .  .  .  .  .153 

12.  Appin,  .  .  ...        155 

13.  lona,      ...  155 

14.  Lismor,  .  .  .  .  .155 

15.  Durgoure,  .  .  .  .  .157 

16.  Glencone,  .  .  .  .  .157 

17.  Lochlevin,  .  .  .  .  .158 

18.  Beanevies,  .  .  .158 


CONTENTS  Ixxv 


PAGE 


19.  Innerloghie,  .  .159 

20.  Loghyeld,  .  .  •          .'  .  .159 

21.  Loquhaber,  .  .  .  .        l6l 

22.  Kilmalie,  .  .  .  .  .        162 

23.  Ardgoure,  .  .  .  .  163 

24.  Kengearloch,  .  .  .  .  .165 

25.  Duard,  .  .  .  .  .  .166 

26.  Morven,  .  .  .  .  .166 

27.  Suineord,  .  .  .  .  .166 

28.  Ardnamurquhen,  .  .  .  .167 

29.  Muydort,  .  .  .  .  .        167 

30.  Arrysaig,  .  .  .  .  .        168 

31.  Knoidort,  .  .  .  .  .168 

32.  Glengairie,  .  .  .  .  .169 

33.  Abirtarff,  .  .  .  .  .171 

34.  Glenmoriestoune,  .  .  .  .171 

35.  Urquhattan,  .  .  .  .  .172 

36.  Inverness,  .  .  .  .  .        172 

37.  Stranearne,  .  .  .  .  .173 

38.  Badenoch,  .  .  .  .173 

39.  Knodeard,  .  .  .  .  .175 

40.  Colla,     .  .  .  .  .  .175 

41.  Muck,   .  .  .  .  .  .       175 

42.  Eigg,     .  .  .  .  .  .176 

43.  Rum,     .  ....        176 

44.  Cainna,  .  .  .  .  .177 

45.  Barray, .  .....        177 

46.  Bearnera,  .  .  .  .  .177 

47.  Wist,     .  .  .  .  .  .180 

48.  Harie,   .  .  .  .  .  .181 

49.  Skye,     .  .  .  .  182 

50.  Lewis,   .  .  .  .  .  .183 

51.  Glasrie,  .  .  .  .  .186 

52.  Kintyre,  .  .  .  .  .186 

53.  Ilia,        .  .  .  .  .  .188 

54.  Texa,     .  .  ...  .  .        189 

55.  Jura,     .  .  .  .  .  .191 

vi.  A  SHORT  DESCRIPTION  OF  DUNBARTON  from  loose  sheets 

unbound,  dated  of  Lochlowmond,     .  .  .192 

(a)  ADDENDA  TO  DUNBARTOUN  SHYRE,  .  .        200 


Ixxvi  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

vii.  A  DESCRIPTION  OF  RENFREWSHYRE  from  some  loose 

unbound  sheets,  .  .  .  .  .201 

viii.  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  LEWIS  by  John  Morisone  In- 

dweller  there,       .  .  .  .  .210 

ix.  A  SHORT  DESCRIPTION  OF  I.  OR  IONA,  1693, .  .       216 

x.  ANE  ANSWER  TO  SIR  ROBERT  SYBALDS  QUERIES  for 
the  IYLS  OF  TIRRY,  GUNNA,  COLLE,  and  ICOLM- 
KILL,  all  lying  within  the  SHERYDOME  OF  ARGAYLL 
and  the  BISHOPRICK  of  the  IYLLS. 

Marked  on  the  back: — A  Description  ofTyrie 
Gonna  Colla  and  Icolmkill  Given  into  me  by 
the  Bishop  of  the  Isles.  Jo.  Fraser,  .  .  217 

xi.  A  DESCRIPTION  OF  SKY,        .  .  .  .21,9 

xn.  1.  ADNOTATA  AD  DESCRIPTIONEM  DUARUM  PR^FECTU- 
RARUM  ABERDONLE  et  BANFI^E  IN  SCOTIA  ULTRA- 
MONTANA,  .....  224 

1.  Strath- Avinia.     Stra-Down,  .  .       230 

2.  Balvania  Balvenie  vel  Mort-lich,    .  .       230 

3.  Strath- Yla,  .  .  .  .231 

4.  Ainia  Ainyee,         ....       232 

5.  Strath-Bogia,          .  .  .  .233 

6.  Boena.     Boyn,       .  .  .  .234 

7.  Buchania.     Buchan,  .  .  .       235 

8.  Formartina,  ....       239 

9.  Gareocha.     Garviach,         .  .  .       239 
10.  Marria.     Marr.       .             .                           .241 

2.  NON   OMNINO  TRANSMISI  AD  TYPOGRAPHUM  H^EC 

SEQUENTIA,  NAM  NIHIL  AD  REM  SUNT,  .  .  247 

3.  ALIUD  HUJUSCEMODI,        ....  247 

4.  AD  TABULAM  ABREDONENSEM  ET  BANFIENSEM,       .  248 

5.  DESCRIPTIO  DUARUM  PR^FECTURARUM  ABERDONL*: 

ET  BANFI^E,    .....       250 
(Translation   into  English  of  the  five  parts 

of  xn.),     .  .  .  .  .267 

xni.  MORAVIA  DESCRIPTIO,  .  .  .  .       306 

(Translation  into  English  of  xm.),         .  ,       309 


CONTENTS  Ixxvii 

PAGE 

xiv.  PROVINCES  AND   COUNTREYS  OF  SCOTLAND  by  their 

names,      .  .  .  .  .  .311 

xv.  ADNOTATA  EX  BED^E  HISTORIA  ECCLESIASTICA  GENTIS 
ANGLORUM  QU.E  NOSTRAS  ANTIQUITATES  TANGUNT. 
VlXIT  ANNO  735  CENTUM  ANNOS  ANTE  ExACTOS 
PICTOS,  ....  .312 

(Translation  into  English  of  x\.},  .  .       320 

xvi.  ADNOTATA  AD  ANTIQUITATEM  SCOTORUM  ET  in  BRIT- 

ANNIAM  TRAJECTUM,  ....       327 

(Translation  into  English  of  x\\.},  .  .       332 

xvn.  ADNOTATA    AD    PR^ETENTURAS    MUROS    VALLA    QU.E 

SCOTOS  A  PROVINCIALIBUS  DISTINGUEBANT,    .  .  336 

(Translation  into  English  of  xvn.),  .  .339 

xvin.  ADNOTATA  DE  ORIGINE  LINGU.E  SAXONIC.E  A  PUD  NOS 

CUM  PRIMA  NOBIS  FUISSET  H\'BERNICA,  .  .  342 

(Translation  into  English  of  xvin.),  .  .       347 

xix.  DE  THULE  INSULA  DISSERTATIO,        .  .  .351 

(Translation  into  English  of 'xix.),  .  .       353 

xx.  ADNOTATA  AD  TABULAM  VETERIS  SCOTIA,       .  .       355 

(Translation  into  English  q/*xx.),  .  .       362 

xxi.  DE  VESTIGIIS  VALLI  AGRICOL.E   ET  POSTEA  ADRIANI 

H.EC  ADNOTAVIT  TlM   PoNT,  .  .  .  368 

(Translation  into  English  q/'xxi.),  .  .       369 

xxii.  ADNOTATA  DE  PR.ETENTURIS  ET  MURIS  ^ui  PROVINCIAM 

'RoMANAM  A    RELIQUA    BRITANNIA    SEPARABANT,    and 

EXSCRIPTA  E  CAMBDENO  DE  MURO  VEL  PR.ETENTURO,       369 
(Translation  into  English  of 'xxii.),  .  .       373 

XXHI.  MAJORES  GENTIS  NOSTR^E,     ....       376 

(Translation  into  English  of  xxm.),  .  .       378 

xxiv.  ADVENTUS  SCOTORUM  IN  BRITANNIAM,  .  .       380 

(Translation  into  English  of  xxiv.),  .  .       383 

xxv.  DE    ETIMO    NOMINIS    SCOTICI    ET    ANTHROPOPHAGIA 

RESPONSUM,  ....  .          385 

xxvi.   DE  ANTHROPOPHAGIA  SCOTORUM  RESPONSUM,  .       386 

(Translation  into  English  of\xv.  and  xxvi.),         .       388 


Ixxviii  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

xxvii.  ANENT  THE   GOVERNMENT  OF  SCOTLAND   AS   IT  WAS 

BEFOR  THE  LATE  TROUBLES,  .  .  .391 

xxvin.  AD  TABULAM  FIF^E,  .....       402 

(Translation  into  English  of  XXVIIL),         .  .        407 

xxix.  CATHENESIA,  STRATHNAVERNIA,  ROSSIA,  SUTHERLANOIA, 

etc.,  .  .  ,  .  .  .412 

1.  ROSSIA,          ....  .413 

2.  ASSYNT,        ......        414 

3.  SUTHERLANDIA,         .  .  .  .417 

4.  CATHENESIA,  .  .  .  .421 

5.  STRATH  NAVERNA,    .  .       424 
(j.    KDIR-DA-CHEULIS,     .....        427 

7.  MORAVIA,     ......       427 

8.  VERA  SoUTHERLANDIA  CHOROORAPHICA    DUCHLPTIO,  .         4-36 

ion  info  English  oj  the  eight  parts  oj  \.\ix.  ),       443 


XXX.     ABLOOM  K        UTRIUSCfo      DEHCItllTIO      Tni'OtiR  AIMIK'A 

AUTORE  J.  G.,     .....  4(><) 

\\.\i.   AiniEDuNiA  VETUS,   .....  485 

(Translation  into  English  o/'xxx.  and  xxxi.),              .  4{)1 

XXXII.     NOATES    AND    OBSERVATIONS  OF  DYVEHS   1'AHTS  OF  TIIK 

HlELANDS  AND   IsLKS  OF  SCOTLAND,                      .                    .  509 

1.  Anent  the  lengtht  of  Scotland  .                           .  :>()<) 

2.  Cowell,               .....  :>()<) 

3.  Memoraiiduin  for  Knodeorcl,     .               .               .  525 

4.  Memoraiuliini   for   Knapdail,  Cantyr,  A    Lornc,  52() 

5.  Kcarera,              .                              ...  527 
(\   Cola,      .                .                .                .                ...  528 

7.  Eig,        ......  528 

8.  Hand  na  Muick,              ....  528 

9.  Rum,      ......  528 

10.  Canna,  ...                              .  52JJ 

11.  Barray,                 .                                             .               .  .>2J) 

12.  Skie  or  Skianach,  .  .  .  .5.81 

13.  Lewis  or  I-oeli  Huis,      ....  532 


CONTENTS  Jxxix 


PAGE 


14.  Glendochart,     .....  534 

15.  Glen-Lochay,     ,  535 

16.  Forrests  in  thir  Bounds,            .              .              .  536 
17-  Glen-Wrchay,    .....  536 
18.  In  the  Lennox  upon  Loch  Lomund  Syd,          .  536 
If).  Noats    of   Distances    of    Places    about    Head 

of  Lochtay,  Loch  Erin,  L.   Dochart,  Glen- 
Urquhay,  &c. 
This    1     had    from    Glenurquhay    himself  in 

June  1644  at  Abirdeen,  .  .  .  537 

20.  Ross  and  the  parts  therof  out  of  Mr.  Timothy 

Pont  his  papers,          .  .  .  .538 

21.  Loch  Kiserin,  Loch  Turretan,  .  .  .  538 

22.  Forrests  in  Ross,  ....  539 

23.  Loch  Ew  and  Letyr-Ew,  .  .  .  539 

24.  Loch  Bruyn  or  Wruyin,    .  .  .  540 

25.  Glen-Elcheg,     .  .  .  .  .541 

26.  Loch  Aelsh,      .....  542 

27.  Glen-Elg,  .  .  .  .  .542 

28.  Keantaill,  .....  543 

29.  Assyn,  ...  .  545 

30.  Stra-Okell,         .  .  .  .  .545 

31.  Stra  Charroun,  .  ...  .  .  546 

32.  Loch  Carroun  upon  the  West  Sea,        .  .  549 

33.  Aird,     .  .  .  .  .  .  549 

34.  Urwhodin,          .  .  .  .  .550 

35.  Connel  or  Connen  River,  .  .  .  550 

36.  Stra  Farror,        .  .  .  ...  552 

37.  Arc!  Meanach,  .....  553 

38.  Seats  betwixt  Stra-Arkeg  and  Innerness,          .  555 

39.  Seats  in  Abirtarff,          ....  556 

40.  Seats  in  Stra-Arkeg,      .  .  .  .  556 

41.  Seats  in  Stra  Nairn  in  Murray.  .  .  557 

42.  Seats  in  Pettye  in  Murraye,      .  .  .  557 

43.  Seats  in  Stra-Erin  in  Murray,  .  .  .  558 

44.  Strath  Navern,  ....  559 

45.  Glenlyon,  ....  .  562 

46.  Coryes  and  Sheels  in  Glenlyon,  .  .  563 

47.  Of  Braid  Allaban,          .  .  .  .564 

48.  Places  about  the  head  of  Loch  Erin,    ....  565 

49.  Stra  Gartnav,    .  .  .  .  .  566 


Ixxx  CONTENTS 


PAGE 


50.  The  Draught  of  Charroun  River  and  Okell  River,  568 

51.  Of  Rennoch,  Coryes,  Burns,  Lochs,  and  Sheels 

therm,             .....  570 

52.  Stormonth  fra  Mr.  D.  Drummonds  Papers,       .  571 

53.  Badenoch.    This  is  wry  ten  out  of  Mr.  Timothies 

Papers  and  in  it  thur  manie  things  false,        .  572 

54.  Noats  of  Lennox  and  Sterlingshyr  gotten  fra 

gentlemen  of  that  countrey  15  May  1644,     .  578 

55.  Noats  and  Memoirs  drawn  furth  of  Mr.  Timothy 

Pont  his  papers,          ....  582 

56.  The  Isle  of  Skiana  commonlie  called  the  Skie,  582 

57.  Fresch  Water  Lochis  in  Skianach,        .              .  584 

58.  Salt  Lochis,        .  .  .  .  .584 

59.  Distances  in  Carrict  and  the  adjacent  Shyre,  .  584 

60.  Divers  Distances,           ....  586 

61.  Kyle,     .  .  .  .  .  .587 

62.  Cuningham,       .....  590 

63.  Upon  Garnoch  following  up  the  River,              .  591 

64.  Distances  in  the  Firth  of  Clyd,              .             .  592 

65.  Divers  Distances  and  Lenths  of  Rivers,             .  592 

66.  Noats  of  Distances  for  Badenoch,          .              .  595 

67.  Noats    about    St.    Johnstoun    and    in    Strath 

Erne,.  ...  .595 

68.  Of  Rennach,  Mr.  T.  Pont,         .  .  .595 

69.  Koryes  in  Rennach,       ....  596 

70.  Seats  in  Buch-Whyddyr,            ,             .             .  597 

71.  Braid  Albayne, .  .  .  .  .598 

72.  In  Bofrack  foments  Weame  in  Strathtay,         .  598 

73.  Coryes  of  Braid  Albane,             .             .              .  599 

74.  Of  Appin-dow  upon  Tay,           .              .              .  599 

75.  Of  Monygegg,  .....  600 

76.  Assyn     Edera-Chewlis,     Coygach,     and     the 

Westerne  part  of  Ross,            .             .              .  600 

77.  Loch  Lomond  and  the  Yles  therein,    .              .  601 

78.  Memorandum,  .....  604 

79.  Divers  Distances,  14  Januarie,  1646,    .             .  604 

80.  In  Lennox,  Stirlingshire,  Clydsdail,  Cunning- 

ham, ...                            .              .  604 

81.  In  Galloway  and  ther  about,     .                            .  605 

82.  Stratheiren  in  Murrey  and  Lochmuy,  .              .  607 

83.  The  back  of  the  Ochels  and  Allon  River,         .  608 


CONTENTS  Ixxxi 

PAGE 

84.  Seats     upon     the     bounds     betwixt     Ainrik 

Blayne  and  Forth  Rivers,      .  .  .       608 

85.  Upon  the  Southsyd  of  Forth,    .  .  .       610 

86.  The   Strath   of  Monteeth    and    all    upon    the 

North  Syd  of  Gudy,  .  .  .       610 

87.  The  Northsyd  of  Teith  River,  .  .  .611 

88.  Northsyd  of  Teeth,        .  .  .612 

89.  Sumwhat  of  Glen-Gyle,  .  .        613 

90.  Glen  Maen,        .  .  .  .  .613 

91.  Glenfinglas,        .  .  .  .  .613 

XXXIH.  From  thrie  sheet  of  Paper  sticht  together  marked 
6  being  in  Sir  Robert  Sibbalds  Collection  of 
Manuscripts  now  in  Faculty  of  Advocats 
library,  .  .  .  .  .  .614 

1.  Provincise  Edinburgenae  descriptio,   .  .       6 14 

2.  Edinburgi  descriptio,  .  .  .       623 
(Translation  into  English  of  the  two  parts  ofxxxui.),       628 

xxxiv.  Index  Regionum  prescriptarum  earundemqj  descrip- 

tionum,       ......       640 


GEOGRAPHICAL 
COLLECTIONS 


NOTES. — 1.  The  Numeral  on  the  margin  (all  through  the  book)  shows  the  page  of  the 

manuscript  which  is  reached  where  it  occurs. 

2.  The  footnotes  occur  in  the  manuscript,  unless  they  are  marked  as  inserted 
by  the  Editor. 


Imprimis     A  DESCRIPTION  of  CARRICT  by  Mr. 
ABERCRUMMIE,  Minister  at  Minibole. 

CARRICT  is  a  part  of  the  Shyre  of  Ayre  lying  to  the  South  i. 
and   Southwest  of  Kyle,  from   which  it  is  seperated   hy  the 
river  of  Dun,  which  hath  its  ryse  out  of  a  Loch  of  that  same 
name  which  is  in  breadth  and  has  a  castle  in  the 

midst  of  it  above  Dalmellingtowne  a  kirktowne  in  Kyle, 
miles,  and  after  many  windings,  whereby  it  makes  Kyle  & 
Carrict  mixe  and  Indent  the  one  with  the  other,  it  empties 
itself  into  the  sea  within  two  myles  of  Aire ;  yet  so  that  at 
low  water  there  is  scarce  the  vestige  of  a  River,  because  in  the 
broad  and  spacious  sands  the  waters  of  it  are  lost  having  no 
channell,  so  that  people  usually  passe  alongst  on  foot  and  shod 
without  any  prejudice  by  water. 

It  lyes  in  the  forme  of  a  Triangle,  whereof  the  North  poynt 
towards  Kyle  at  the  bridge  of  Dun,  is  very  narrow,  being  shutt 
up  by  the  sea  on  the  West  part,  and  the  land  of  Kyle  in  the 
parish  of  Alloway  &  Dalrimple  shutts  up  the  water  of  Dun  on 
the  East  syde.  The  Coast  runs  Southwest  from  the  castle  of 
Greenand  standing  on  a  rock  at  the  influxe  of  Dun  into  the 
sea  untill  the  poynt  of  Turnberry  whereon  are  to  be  seen  the 
ruines  of  an  old  castell  of  the  same  name,  from  this  to  Girvan, 
the  coast  turns  perfytely  South  from  which  turning  Southwest 
till  the  Bennan-hill.  From  thence  it  turns  again  Southward 
till  Ballantrae  on  the  Southsyde,  whereof  the  river  Stincher  2. 
runs  into  the  sea  at  the  influxe  whereof  there  riseth  up  a  ridge 
of  hills,  which  run  streght  Westward  to  the  mouth  of  Loch- 
ryan  and  then  the  Coast  of  Carrict  turns  to  the  south  east  up 
the  syde  of  the  Loch.  This  Loch  will  be  myles  in 

breadth,  above  the   mouth  of  which    on   the  other  syde   of 
Glenap  toward  the  descent  of  the  hill  to  the  Rins  of  Galloway 

VOL.  II.  A 


2  CARRICT 

are  the  standing  stones,  which  are  accounted  the  march 

betwixt  Carrict  &  Galloway  on  that  part,  from  which  stones 
eastward  this  countrey  is  all  alongst  marched  with  the  countrey 
of  the  Rins  and  shyre  of  Galloway  alongst  the  heads  of  the 
parishes  of  Ballantrae,  Calmonell,  Barre  and  the  parish  of 
Straton  which  bords  with  parish  of  Carsfairne  in  the  Stewartrie; 
but  all  alongst  the  March  it  is  a  wild  moorish  countrie,  and 
then  meets  with  Loch  Dun,  out  of  which  issues  the  river  of 
that  name  abovementioned. 

It  is  a  countrey  which  is  abundantly  furnished  with  all  the 
accomodations  of  human  lyfe,  and  if  it  had  Iron,  could  subsist 
of  itselfe  without  dependance  upon  any  other,  for  though  no 
salt  be  made  in  it,  yet  wants  not  the  materials  for  making 
thereof.  It  being  washed  by  the  sea  upon  one  syde  and  well 
enough  provyded  of  coal  at  no  great  distance  from  the  coast, 
and  it  is  not  so  much  the  sloath  of  the  Inhabitants  that  they 
have  none,  as  the  cheapness  of  this  Commodity  both  domestick 
and  forreigne.  It  is  better  fitted  for  pasturage  than  Corns, 
yet  it  produces  such  plenty  of  all  sorts  of  graine,  that  it  not 
only  serves  its  own  Inhabitants,  but  has  to  spare  to  nighbour- 
ing  places  so  that  from  hence  are  yearly  transported  considerable 
quantities  of  meal  both  to  Galloway  and  the  fishing  in  Clyde. 

It  affoords  also  store  of  Cattle,  so  that  great  droves  of 
Cowes  and  bullocks  are  carryed  yearly  hence  both  into  Eng- 
land and  other  places  of  our  own  kingdome  which  are  returned 
againe  in  silver  and  gold  which  uses  to  be  very  common 
amongst  all  the  people  from  hallowday  till  Candlemess  that 
the  rents  be  cleared.  And  this  is  the  speciall  quality  of 
the  beefe  that  pasture  in  the  moore  Countrey  that  the  flesh  is 
very  sweet  and  pleasant  and  the  fat  of  them  keeps  soft  lyke 
that  of  pork. 

It  is  very  balanced  with  moore  and  dale  for  the  one  part 
that  abounds  with  come  supplyes  the  other  place  which  is  for 
pasturage  with  bread,  as  they  fournish  them  again  with  beefe, 
mutton,  wool  butter  cheese,  and  the  whole  Countrey  are  so 
fond  of  preserving  store  that  it  is  very  rare  to  find  any  veal 
eaten  here  but  what  is  brought  from  Kyle  or  Cuninghame. 
They  have  plenty  of  poultrey,  hens,  capons,  ducks,  geese,  and 
turkeys,  at  easie  rates,  and  for  wild  foul,  partridge,  moore 


CARRICT  3 

fowl,  black  cocks,  pliver  no  place  is  better  provided  besyde 
store  of  solangeese  in  so  great  plenty  that  the  very  poorest 
of  the  people  eat  of  them  in  ther  season  at  easie  rates  besydes 
other  sea  fowles,  which  are  brought  from  Ailra  of  the  bigness 
of  ducks  and  of  the  tast  of  solangeese,  and  are  called  Abban- 
acks  or  Ailra  cocks  and  Tarnachans  of  which  there  is  so  great 
a  multitude  about  that  Isle,  that  when  by  a  shot  of  a  peice, 
they  are  put  upon  the  wing,  they  will  darken  the  heavens 
above  the  spectators.  This  Ailra  is  a  rock  in  the  sea  in  which 
these  solan  geese  nestle  and  breed,  in  which  also  there  be 
conies,  and  wild  doves,  it  is  reckoned  as  a  part  of  the  parish 
of  Daylie,  belongs  to  the  E.  of  Cassillis  and  has  the  valuation 
of  a  ten  lib.  land  of  old  extent. 

By  the  nighbourhood  of  the  sea  which  washes  the  coast 
thereof  for  the  space  of  thirtie  miles,  it  is  well  provyded  of 
fishes  such  as  Killing,  Ling,  Cod,  Haddowes,  whyttings 
Herrings,  makrells  and  by  the  three  maine  rivers  that  water 
this  Countrey  viz  :  Dun  Girvan  and  Stincher  they  be  furnished 
with  salmond,  which  be  taken  at  the  mouth  of  each  of  these 
in  such  abundance  as  serve  both  for  the  use  of  the  Countrey 
and  to  be  sent  abroad.  The  Lochs  and  other  rivulets  have  in 
them  pykes,  trouts,  eels. 

No  Countrey  is  better  provyded  of  wood,  for  alongst  the 
banks  of  Dun,  Girvan  &  Stincher  there  be  great  woods, 
but  especially  on  Girvan  whereby  they  serve  the  nighbourhood 
both  in  Kyle  and  Cuninghame  for  timber  to  build  countrey 
houses,  and  for  all  the  uses  of  husband rie  as  cart,  harrow, 
plough  and  barrow  at  very  easie  rates,  and  the  sorts  are 
birch,  elder,  sauch,  poplar,  ash,  oak  and  liazell,  and  it  is 
ordinary  throughout  all  that  Countrey  and  every  Gentleman 
has  by  his  house  both  wood  and  water  orchards  and  parkes. 

The  countrey  is  very  well  watered,  for  it  has  Dun  that 
marcheth  it  all  alongst  on  the  syde  next  Kyle.  Girvan  runs 
through  the  middle  of  it  and  almost  divides  it,  and  Stincher  that 
waters  the  upper  part,  besydes  severall  other  lesser  rivulets 
such  as  Muck,  Dusk,  and  Tig  that  run  into  it,  the  last  whereof 
is  about  a  mile  above  the  influxe  of  Stincher  into  the  sea. 
The  Lochs  be  Lochdun  out  of  which  runs  the  water  of  Dun, 
the  streame  whereof  is  very  rapid  and  impetuous  and  is 


4  CARRICT 

passable  by  a  bridge  of  one  Arch  but  exceeding  wide  about 
half  a  myle  above  its  influxe  into  the  sea.  Loch  Spalander 
in  which  are  excellent  trouts  known  by  ther  blackish  colour 
out  of  which  runs  a  small  rivulet  called  Dyrock,  which  in  its 
course  passes  by  the  Church  of  the  parish  of  Kirkmichael,  and 
passes  into  Girvan  a  mile  below  the  said  kirk,  there  be  also 
other  Lochs  such  as  the  Doveloch,  Neilsiston  Loch  and  Heart 
Loch  all  in  the  parish  of  Mayboll.  The  last  whereof  is  so 
called  from  its  shape  and  figure  which  is  exactly  that  of  a 
heart  so  formed  by  the  rushes  growing  round  about  it  and 
giving  the  waters  the  shape  of  the  heart  it  lyes  within  a 
quarter  of  a  myle  of  the  town  of  Mayboll  to  the  southeastward, 
there  be  also  Mochrum  Hill  Loch  and  Craigdow  Loch  in  the 
parish  of  Kirkoswald. 

It  abounds  with  many  good  springs  of  water,  whereof  I 
shall  at  present  mention  four  only  for  ther  singularity,  two 
for  ther  copiousnes  of  water  both  of  them  at  Mayboll ;  one  at 
the  Northeast  end  of  the  towne  called  my  Lordswell  and 
Hough  usually  it  spring  so  abundantly  that  no  inconsiderable 
streame  run  from  it,  yet  in  tymes  of  great  droughts  it  fails,  but 
the  other  on  the  southwest  end  of  the  towne  called  the  Sprout 
of  Welltrees  is  so  very  plenteous  that  falling  in  severall  mouths 
through  rock  and  stone  it  would  for  its  plenty  and  sweetnesse 
be  accounted  a  rich  treasure  to  the  Capitall  city  of  the  nation. 
Another  spring  there  is  called  St.  Helens  well  or  by  a  curt  pro- 
nuntiation  St.  Emus  for  St.  Antonies  well,  it  is  about  a  myle 
and  ane  halfe  from  Mayboll  on  the  road  to  Aire  a  litle  north 
of  Balachmont.  It  is  famous  for  the  cure  of  unthriving 
children,  to  which  at  the  change  of  the  quarter  especially  at 
May-day  there  is  a  great  resort  of  people  from  all  quarters, 
and  at  a  good  distance.  A  fourth  is  a  small  neglected  spring 
about  the  head  of  the  Denines  in  the  forsaid  parish  of  Mayboll 
near  to  a  place  called  Sennyglens-crosse  famous  for  its  vertue 
in  curing  cowes  that  are  taken  with  the  mure  ill  for  by  drinking 
thereof,  they  are  healed  and  accordingly  it  is  carryed  far  up 
into  the  moore  countrey  by  people  for  this  use. 

Though  this  Countrey  be  washed  with  the  sea  for  the  space 
of  24  myles  and  upwards  yet  there  be  no  convenient  harbours 
or  bayes  for  receiving  of  ships  so  that  none  resort  it  but  small 


CARRICT  5 

boats  and  barks  from  Ireland  or  the  highlands  and  ther  best 
receptacle  is  the  broad  sands  of  Turnberry  and  the  mouths  of 
Dun,  Girvan,  and  Stincher ;  and  of  all  these  three,  Girvan  is 
the  best ;  and  for  ther  fishing  boats,  they  have  no  other  shelter 
but  to  draw  up  the  length  of  the  water  marke  when  they  come 
ashoar  and  then  to  them  when  the  tyde  puts  them  afloat 
againe,  the  shoar  is  very  well  parted  all  alongst  "twixt  rock  6. 
and  sand,  some  places  a  tract  of  open  plain  sands,  some  places 
high  and  steep  rock  which  is  ever  washen  with  the  sea. 

There  be  in  this  Countrey  some  vestiges  of  ancient  Occur- 
rences, the  historic  whereof  not  having  been  preserved  by  the 
Inhabitants,  oblidges  us  to  observe  them  only  without  giving 
any  Rationale  of  them.  There  is  a  little  acervus  of  earth  of  a 
Circular  forme  with  a  big  stone  erect  on  the  middle  thereof 
within  halfe  a  myle  of  Mayboll  on  the  road  to  Aire  within  the 
farme  called  St.  Murray.  There  is  also  upon  the  descent  of 
Broun  Carrick  hill  near  to  the  Mains  of  Blairstoune  a  big 
whinstone  upon  which  there  is  the  dull  figure  of  a  Crosse, 
which  is  alledged  to  have  been  clone  by  some  venerable  Church- 
man who  did  mediat  a  peace  twixt  the  King  of  the  Picts  and 
Scots  and  to  give  the  more  authority  to  his  proposalls,  did  in 
their  sight  by  laying  a  Crosse  upon  the  stone,  imprint  that 
figure  thereon.  Of  late  there  was  a  disco verie  made  near  to 
the  house  of  Bargeny  and  just  opposite  to  the  gate  of  the  new 
Avenue  to  this  house  a  sepulchre  of  square  stone  covered  over 
with  flagstones  in  which  were  found  the  bones  of  a  man,  and 
at  the  place  where  his  head  was  laid,  an  Earthen  pott  in  which 
the  Diggers  up  of  it  found  some  small  peices  of  silver,  whereof 
the  Impression  bore  no  letters  that  could  be  known. 

There  is  yet  to  be  seen  on  the  Coast  of  Carrict  beyond 
Drumbeg  as  you  goe  to  Girvan,  the  vestige  of  a  camp  and 
fortification  but  the  most  memorable  actions  that  are  now 
remembred  in  this  Countrey,  are  domestick  feuds  betwixt  two 
great  families  of  the  name  of  Kennedy  contending  for  prece- 
dence viz.  the  family  of  Cassillis  and  the  Kennedy's  of  Bargeny, 
these  contending  for  the  right  of  primogeniture  against  the 
Encroachments  of  the  other,  who  by  the  Interest  of  his 
greater  allyance  with  the  royall  familie  assumed  the  pre-  7. 
heminence,  which  occasioned  such  animosities  betwixt  them, 


6  CARRICT 

that  the  matter  was  disputed  by  these  two  families  with  their 
respective  friends  and  followers  in  a  pitched  feild  in  a  certain 
place  within  the  parish  of  Mayboll  called  the  field  of  Penny- 
glen  to  this  day.  In  which  contest  many  of  both  sydes  were 
killed,  but  the  family  of  Cassillis  had  the  advantage  since 
which  tyme  the  stock  of  the  family  of  Bargeny  is  extinguished 
some  branches  of  it  being  yet  extant,  the  Mansionhouse  and 
principall  park  of  the  Estate  being  now  possessed  by 
Hamiltons. 

The  Inhabitants  of  this  Countrey  are  of  ane  Irish  Originall 
as  appears  both  by  ther  names  being  generally  all  Mac's.  I 
mean  the  vulgar  and  all  their  habitations  of  Irish  designatione, 
their  hills  are  Knocks,  their  Castles  Ards,  but  the  great  and 
almost  only  name  amongst  the  Gentrie  have  been  Kennedies, 
yet  there  be  besyde  them  Boyds,  Cathcarts,  Fergussons  and 
Moores  that  have  been  old  possessors,  but  the  later  names 
that  enjoy  some  the  ancient  honourable  seats  of  the  Kennedies 
are  Hamiltons  that  possesse  Bargeny,  Whitfoords  that  possesse 
Blairquhan  and  Crawfuird  that  have  Ardmillan.  yet  the 
Kennedies  continue  still  to  be  both  the  most  numerous  and 
most  powerful!  clan.  Beside  the  E.  of  Cassillis  their  cheife 
there  be  Sir  Gilbert  Kennedy  of  Girvanmains,  Sir  Arch. 
Kennedy  of  Colarne,  Sir  Tho.  Kennedy  of  Kirkhill,  Kennedy 
of  Beltersan,  Kennedy  of  Kilheigwe,  Kennedy  of  Kirkmichael, 
Kennedy  of  Knockdone  Kennedy  of  Glenour,  Kennedy  of 
Bennan,  Kennedy  of  Carlock  and  Kennedy  of  Drummellan. 
But  this  name  is  under  great  decay  in  comparison  of  what  it 
was  ane  age  agoe  at  which  tyme  they  flourished  so  in  power 
and  number  as  to  give  occasion  to  this  Rhyme 

Twixt  Wigtoune  and  the  towne  of  Aire 
8-  And  laigh  down  be  the  Cruves  of  Cree 

You  shall  not  gett  a  lodging  there 
Except  ye  court  a  Kennedy. 

The  persons  of  men  are  generally  tall  and  statelie,  well 
limbed  and  comely,  and  women  are  nowhere  better  com- 
plexioned,  they  are  a  healthfull  sort  of  people,  and  live  to  a 
good  age  both  Gentrie  and  commons,  so  that  they  usually 
have  in  all  ther  families  the  Grandfather  and  Oyes,  some  see 
the  fourth  generation,  and  they  all  generally  love  ease  to 


CARRICT  7 

which  their  soyle  being  pasturage  gives  them  opportunities, 
and  they  are  in  poynt  of  Industrie  most  addicted  to  merchan- 
dising by  droves  of  cattle,  wool,  flocks  of  sheep  and  commerce 
with  Ireland,  but  seeme  not  fond  of  trading  afar  off*  as  having 
all  necessary  accomodations  at  home,  but  if  they  be  trans- 
planted from  their  native  soile,  they  prosper  &  thrive  very 
well  both  at  home  &  abroad.  Their  ease  and  plenty  disposes 
them  to  be  unruly  and  turbulent,  so  that  the  servants  are 
Insolent,  and  all  of  them  are  but  uneasie  subjects  so  that  in 
the  late  tymes  Carrict  hath  been  a  sanctuary  or  rather  a 
nurserie  of  Rogues,  bearing  arms  against  authority  upon 
pretext  of  religion. 

In  this  Countrey  Religion  has  had  the  Influence  upon  the 
people  to  dispose  them  to  the  founding  and  endowering  many 
places  for  devotion  for  though  there  be  but  one  Monasterie  in 
all  this  Countrey  viz :  Crosseraguel  within  two  myles  of 
Mayboll  westward,  which  besyde  other  revenue  enjoyed  the 
Tythes  of  these  five  parishes  viz  :  Kirkoswald,  Daillie,  Girvan, 
Ballantrae,  and  Straton  which  enjoyed  the  Jurisdiction  of 
regality  within  itselfe  to  which  all  its  vassals  and  tenents  were 
answerable,  yet  were  there  also  severall  other  pious  founda- 
tions and  donations.  There  is  the  Munkland  ane  100  Merk- 
land  of  old  extent  which  is  an  appendage  of  the  Abbacy  of 
Melross  and  had  a  separat  Jurisdiction  of  its  owne  for  9. 
ministring  Justice  to  all  the  Vassals  and  Tennants  thereof. 
The  Laird  of  Ardmillan  one  of  the  vassals  was  heretable 
Baillie,  and  upon  the  parcelling  of  his  fortune,  was  acquired 
by  Kennedy  of  Grange.  There  was  also  a  Collegiat  Church  at 
Mayboll  the  fabrick  whereof  is  yet  extant  and  entyre,  being 
now  used  as  the  buriall  place  of  the  Earle  of  Cassillis,  and 
other  Gentlemen  who  contributed  to  the  putting  of  a  roofe 
upon  it  when  it  was  decayed.  On  the  northsyde  of  which 
Kirk  is  the  buriall  place  of  the  Laird  of  Colaine  within  anc 
Enclosure  of  new  squarestone  lately  built  the  Colledge  con- 
sisted of  a  Rector  and  three  prebends,  whose  stalls  are  all  of 
them  yet  extant,  save  the  Rectors  which  was  where  these  low 
buildings  and  the  garden  are  on  the  Eastsyde  of  that  which 
is  now  the  Parsons  house,  the  other  three  are  the  Blackhouse, 
Ja  Grays  house  with  the  Orchard  and  the  Welltrees.  The 


8  CARRICT 

patrimony  of  this  church  were  the  pro  vest  and  priests  lands  in 
the  parish  of  Kirkmichael,  which  fell  into  the  E.  of  Cassillis 
hands  upon  the  dissolution  of  the  Colledge  at  the  reformation. 
Out  of  which  he  as  yet  payes  yearly  to  the  Minister  of 
Mayboll  the  some  of  70  Merks  Scots.  As  for  the  Church  its 
present  patrimony  is  out  of  the  Tyth  of  the  parish  which 
before  the  reformation  was  all  possessed  and  enjoyed  by  the 
Nuns  of  Northberwick  and  on  the  dissolution  of  the  said 
Nunnerie  became  a  prize  to  the  Laird  of  Bargeny.  The 
parish  Church  stands  at  a  little  distance  from  the  forsaid 
Colledge  eastward.  It  does  not  appear  when  it  was  built,  but 
the  large  Isle  that  lyes  from  the  body  of  the  Church  southward 
and  makes  the  figure  of  the  Church  a  T,  was  built  by  Mr.  Ja. 
Bonar,  Minister  thereat  in  the  reigne  of  K.  Ch.  the  First. 
Wit lii n  the  said  parish  of  Mayboll  there  have  been  other 
10.  chappells  of  old  as  Kirkbryde  on  the  Coastsyde  whose  walls 
and  yard  be  yet  extant,  and  within  the  lands  of  Achin- 
drain  and  elsewhere  there  have  been  other  chappels  whereof 
the  Rudera  are  yet  to  be  seen. 

This  Countrey  of  old  gave  the  title  of  Earle  to  Robert 
Bruce  the  great  assertor  of  the  Scottish  liberty  in  right  of 
whom  it  continues  still  to  be  one  of  the  titles  of  the  Prince ; 
and  the  freeholders  of  this  Jurisdiction  are  the  Princes  vassals. 
This  Countrey  is  the  ancient  seat  of  the  Kennedies,  whose 
principall  dwelling  was  the  Castle  of  Dinnure  standing  on  the 
seasyde  in  a  rockie  shoar  in  the  parish  of  Mayboll  and  gives 
designation  to  a  Baronie  lying  round  about  it.  but  this  being 
wholly  ruined,  their  chief  Mansion  is  the  house  of  Cassillis 
standing  upon  a  high  ground  on  the  southsyde  of  the  river  of 
Dun  having  the  wood  of  Dalrimple  opposit  to  it  on  the  other 
syde  of  Kyle,  which  gives  it  a  very  agreeable  prospect  of  wood 
and  water.  The  house  in  the  body  of  it  is  very  high  having  a 
fine  stone  stare  turning  about  a  hollow  casement,  in  which  are 
many  opens  from  the  bottome  to  the  top,  that  by  putting  a 
lamp  into  it,  gives  light  to  the  whole  turn  of  staires.  In  the 
River  they  have  cruves  for  taking  of  salmond  and  ponds  to 
furnish  them  other  fishes  and  there  be  large  plots  of  ground 
cast  into  Gardens,  fenced  about  with  stone  walls  exceeding 
high  which  yeilds  good  store  of  Apricocks,  peaches,  cherries  and 


CARRICT  9 

all  other  fruits  and  herbage  that  this  Kingdome  produces. 
Near  to  which  stands  the  hill  of  Dunrie  out  of  which  has  been 
-digged  a  rich  ore  and  is  accounted  a  silver  myne. 

All  the  houses  of  the  Gentry  of  this  Countrey  are  seated  both 
pleasantly  and  commodiously,  being  either  built  upon  the  princi- 
pal rivers  and  the  lesser  waters  that  feed  them  or  upon  the  sea- 
coast,  these  upon  the  seacoast  are  the  Castell  of  the  Grenand  and 
the  Cove.  The  Greenand  is  a  high  house  upon  the  top  of  a  rock 
hanging  over  upon  the  sea  with  some  lower  new  work  lately 
ridded  to  it  but  never  finished.  It  is  too  open  to  the  cold  and 
moisture  arysing  from  the  sea  to  be  a  desyreable  habitation  1L 
•and  has  been  designed  to  be  the  owners  security  against  a 
surprize  rather  than  a  constant  residence,  it  is  within  the 
parish  of  May  boll.  Not  far  from  it  lyes  the  house  of  Newark, 
a  good  old  castle  southeast  from  the  other,  much  improven  of 
late  by  the  enclosing  grounds  for  a  park  and  a  well  planted 
•orchard.  The  Cove  is  the  Laird  of  Colains  Mansion  house 
standing  upon  a  rock  above  the  sea,  flanked  on  the  south  with 
very  pretty  gardens  and  orchards  adorned  with  excellent 
Tarrases  and  the  walls  loaden  with  peaches,  apricotes,  cherries 
and  other  fruit ;  and  these  gardens  are  so  well  sheltred  from 
the  north  and  East  winds  and  ly  so  open  to  the  south  that  the 
fruits  and  herbage  are  more  early  than  any  other  place  in 
Carrict.  Southward  from  this  lyes  the  house  of  Thomastowne 
once  the  residence  of  the  Cory's  but  now  of  McLevain  of 
•Grimmet  a  very  pretty  house  with  gardens  Orchards  and 
Parks  round  it,  both  these  ly  in  the  parish  of  Kirk  Oswald. 
The  next  upon  the  Coast,  are  to  be  seen  the  old  ruines  of  the 
ancient  Castle  of  Turnberry  upon  the  Northwest  poynt  of 
that  rockie  angle  that  turns  about  towards  Girvan  and  is 
perhaps  that  place  called  by  Ptolomee  Rerigonium  of  a  Greek 
Origination  Importing  round  the  corner  and  suiting  the 
English  designation  of  Turnberry  and  that  it  cannot  be 
Bargeny  as  some  imagine,  the  very  situation  of  that  Castle 
and  recentness  of  it  will  abundantly  shew.  And  to  confirme 
this  our  conjecture  that  Hepiyovtov  is  Turnberry  from  turning 
of  the  corner,  a  tradition  amongst  the  people  there,  will  not  a 
litle  conduce  vi/  :  that  near  to  this  very  Castle  there  was  of 
old  a  towne  of  the  same  name  of  which  there  is  no  vestige  at 


10  CARRICT 

present  to  be  seen,  but  that  they  perceive  some  remainders  of 
a  causeway,  and  the  reason  for  this  may  be  the  nighbourhood 
of  the  port  of  greatest  resort  in  all  that  Coast,  at  which  the 
first  possessors  have  landed  from  Ireland  and  so  might  have 

12.  fixed  their  habitation  near  to  it,  though  now  the  place  be 
but  a  tract  of  barren  sands.  Next  to  this  is  the  Castle  of 
Ardmillan  so  much  improven  of  late  that  it  looks  like  a 
palace  built  round  courtwayes  surrounded  with  a  deep  broad 
ditch  and  strengthened  with  a  moveable  bridge  at  the  entry, 
able  to  secure  the  owner  from  the  suddain  commotions  and 
assaults  of  the  wild  people  of  this  corner,  which  on  these 
occasions  are  sett  upon  robbery  and  depredation,  and  to 
enable  him  the  better  to  endure  a  seige  he  is  well  provided  of 
well  in  his  Court  and  a  handmill  in  the  house  for  grinding 
meall  or  malt  with  which  two  lusty  fellows  sett  a  work,  will 
grind  a  firlott  in  the  space  of  ane  hour.  It  is  surrounded  with 
good  corn  fields  and  meadow,  with  large  parks  for  pasturage, 
and  excellent  good  gardens  and  orchards  that  yeild  plenty  of 
apples  and  pears,  and  one  more  particularly  that  for  its  pre- 
cocity is  called  the  early  pear  of  Ardmillan  of  a  very  pleasant 
tast.  In  the  year  happened  a  strange  conjunction  twixt 

a  Jackdaw  and  a  Magpie  that  paired  together,  built  their 
nest,  and  brought  forth  ther  young  resembling  more  the 
Jackdaw  then  the  Magpie.  Last  there  is  the  old  Castle  of 
Ardstincher,  which  is  mostly  now  ruined  but  has  been  of  old  a 
vast  hudge  fabrick  and  stands  upon  ane  ascending  ground 
above  the  towne  of  Balantrae  eastward. 

The  houses  on  the  water  of  Dun  are  Cassillis  of  which 
already.  Achindrain  an  high  tower  with  laigh  buildings  sur- 
rounded with  good  orchards  and  gardens,  parks  and  good  corn- 
feilds,  the  owner  hereof  is  Moore,  next  to  this  is  Blairtown,  a 
stone  tower  house  with  lower  buildings  about  it  surrounded 
with  gardens  orchards  and  parks  it  lyes  low  upon  the  water- 
syde  and  then  Bridgend  a  pretty  dwelling  surrounded  also 
with  gardens  orchards  and  parks.  All  these  three  are  in  the 
parish  of  Mayboll. 

is.  The  water  of  Girvan  above  the  Kirk  of  Straton  is 
wyld  and  hilly  but  at  the  Clachan  it  opens  into  a  faire 
pleasant  prospect  of  plaine  grounds.  Next  to  it  is  the  great 


CARRICT  11 

castle  of  Blairquhan,  the  fyne  building  and  hudge  bulke 
whereof  is  a  plain  demonstration  of  the  sometime  greatness  of 
that  family,  which  besyde  their  possessions  in  Carrict,  had 
large  territories  also  in  Galloway.  It  is  well  provyded  with 
wood  covered  with  planting  of  barren  timber  and  surrounded 
with  large  orchards.  Next  to  it  is  Cloncaird  near  two  myles 
distance  which  is  surrounded  with  gardens  orchards  and  great 
store  of  wood,  the  third  but  at  a  remoter  distance  from  the 
water  of  Girvan  is  the  house  of  Kirkmichael  a  pretty  com- 
modious house  within  a  short  space  of  the  church  of  the  same 
name,  betwixt  which  runs  the  water  of  Dyroyk  above  men- 
tioned which  soon  swells  with  rains  falling  on  the  higher 
grounds  and  becomes  unpassable  on  a  sudden.  The  house  of 
Kirkmichael  is  as  desyreable  a  dwelling  as  in  all  the  countrey 
having  good  gardens  and  orchards  and  was  the  first  in  Carrict 
planted  with  Apricocks  and  peaches.  This  orchard  and  house 
is  flanked  on  the  south  with  a  Loch,  part  whereof  has  been 
drained  of  late,  and  rewards  the  owners  industry  with  good 
hay.  The  next  is  Dalduffe  on  the  southsyde  of  Girvan  a 
small  stone  house  with  ane  Orchard  and  good  corne  feilds 
about  it.  Below  that  upon  the  southsyde  and  at  some  distance 
from  the  river  stands  the  house  of  Barclanathan  with  its 
gardens  and  orchards  all  which  are  surrounded  by  wood,  all 
the  water  from  this  downward  till  near  Daillie  being  so 
covered  with  wood  that  it  looks  lyke  a  forrest.  And  in  a  low 
ground  below  the  last,  and  nearer  the  water  stands  Drummellan 
and  upon  the  northsyde  of  the  river  below  that  upon  an 
higher  ground  stands  the  house  of  Drumburle  the  mansion 
house  of  the  lairds  of  Drummellan.  On  that  same  syde 
farder  downe  the  water  stands  the  house  of  Drummochrin 
which  is  but  a  small  Interest,  but  a  most  lovely  thing  being 
every  way  so  commodious  and  convenient  for  living  easily, 
that  it  is  as  it  were  ane  abridgement  of  this  Countrey  having 
all  the  accommodations  that  are  dispersed  through  it  all,  com- 
prized within  its  short  and  small  bounds.  It  has  a  house  not 
for  ostentation  but  conveniency  fit  to  lodge  the  owner  and  his 
nighbours.  It  hath  gardens  orchards  wood,  water  all  the 
fishes  that  swim  in  rivers,  all  sort  of  cattle  sheep  cows,  swine, 
and  goat,  all  sort  of  fowl  wyld  and  tame,  all  maner  of  stone  for 


12  CARRICT 

building,  free  stone  and  lyme  stone.  And  coall,  moore  mosse 
meadow  and  marie  a  Wak  myln  and  corn  miln,  and  all  manner 
of  artisans  and  Tradesmen  within  his  bounds  and  yet  the 
revenue  not  above  100  lib.  per  annum.  Not  far  from  this, 
downe  the  water  stands  the  stately  Castle  of  Dolquharran,  the 
building  whereof  is  much  improven  by  the  additions  lately 
made  thereto,  which  make  it  by  very  far  the  best  house  of  all 
that  Countrey,  surrounded  with  vast  enclosures  of  wood,  that 
the  Countrey  is  not  able  to  consume  it  by  their  building  and 
other  Instruments  and  amongst  them  there  be  oake  trees  of  a 
considerable  size  both  for  hight  and  breadth  that  will  serve 
either  for  Jest  or  roofe  of  good  houses.  Opposite  to  this 
stands  the  house  of  Muirestowne  on  the  southsyde  of  the  river 
and  westward  from  it  the  new  kirk  of  Daillie  which  is  of  late 
erected  for  the  accommodation  of  the  parishioners  being  now 
centricall  whereas  before  the  situation  thereof  was  at  the 
extreme  west  poynt  of  the  parish.  Below  this  on  the  south 
syde  of  Girvan  stands  the  house  of  Brunstourie  in  ane  open 
feild,  next  to  which  in  the  midst  of  a  forrest  rather  than  wood 
stands  in  a  low  ground  near  the  brink  of  the  river  the  old 
castle  of  Bargeny  on  the  southsyde  of  Girvan  which  is  ane 
15.  argument  of  the  sometime  greatness  of  that  family,  being 
a  hudge  great  lofty  Tower  in  the  center  of  a  quadrangular 
court  that  had  on  each  of  three  corners,  fyne  well-built  towers 
of  free  stone  four  story  high.  But  the  new  house  lately  built 
after  the  modern  fashion,  stands  upon  a  higher  ground  south- 
ward of  the  old  castle,  which  furnished  materials  both  for 
founding  and  finishing  of  the  new  house.  It  is  a  mighty  com- 
modious house,  and  if  any  make  a  greater  shew  and  appear- 
ance, yet  it  has  the  advantage  of  them  for  contrivance  and 
accommodation,  it  is  flanked  to  the  south  with  gardens  very 
pretty,  and  has  orchards  lying  westward  of  it  about  a  myle 
downe  the  water  stands  the  Castle  of  Killochan,  the  mansion 
house  of  Cathcart  of  Carletowne  surrounded  with  orchards, 
planting  and  wood,  it  stands  upon  a  higher  ground  that 
descends  southward  to  the  water,  which  is  at  a  small  distance 
from  it,  and  has  toward  the  south  a  prospect  of  a  pleasant 
plaine,  where  stood  the  old  kirk  of  Daillie  and  Kirktowne  by 
which  runs  the  litle  rivulet  of  Polchapel  passing  northward  into 


CARRICT  13 

Girvan.  On  the  eastsyde  of  which  up  toward  the  hills  stands 
the  house  of  Pinkill  belonging  to  the  Boyds.  West  of  which 
lyes  a  high  hill  called  the  Sauchhill  once  memorable  for  the 
resort  of  people  to  conventicles,  where  they  built  a  meeting 
house  of  turfe  and  wood.  On  the  northsyde  of  the  river 
downard  and  up  toward  the  hill  about  a  myle  from  the  river 
stands  the  house  of  Trochreg  which  belongs  to  the  Boyds, 
which  family  hath  produced  two  great  men  famous  in  their 
generation  and  great  lights  in  the  Church  of  God.  One  was 
James  Boyd  Archbishop  of  Glasgow  who  maintained  the 
honour  of  his  character  by  a  vertuous  and  exemplary  lyfe  and 
strenuously  defended  the  lawfullness  of  his  office  against  the 
Insults  of  our  first  Zealots  Mr.  Andrew  Melvin  and  his  com- 
plices. The  other  was  his  son  and  heir  who  following  the 
study  of  Divinity,  merited  the  chaire  in  the  Colledge  of 
Saumure  in  France,  and  thence  was  brought  to  be  Princi- 16. 
pall  of  the  Colledge  of  Glasgow  whose  learned  commentaries 
on  the  Ephessians  are  well  known  and  Justly  had  in  great 
estimation.  From  this  downward  stands  the  Enoch,  and  a 
litle  below  that  there  is  cast  over  the  river  a  stone  bridge  and 
near  to  the  influxe  of  the  sea  upon  a  levell  ground  high  above 
the  water  stands  the  Kirk  of  Girvan  and  the  Parsons  house  on 
the  northsyde  of  the  churchyard,  opposite  to  which  on  the 
other  syde  of  the  river  lyes  a  pleasant  Links  with  a  Conyware 
and  at  the  foot  of  it  is  a  salmond  fishing  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  and  a  station  for  boats  that  come  from  Ireland  or  the 
Highlands.  Southward  from  the  Kirk  of  Girvan  stands  the 
tower  of  Balachtowle  a  monument  of  the  builders  folly  being 
raised  five  story  high  without  a  staire  case  and  no  more  but 
one  roome  in  each  story,  it  has  nether  garden  or  orchard  nor 
planting  but  stands  in  the  midst  of  rich  cornfields.  The 
builder  of  this  house  Boyd  of  Penbrill  procured  a  patent  for 
building  a  new-burgh  at  Girvan,  whose  situation  and  streets  he 
designed  and  marked  out  in  these  barren  sands  on  the  south- 
syde  of  the  water  mouth  of  Girvan  and  erected  a  Pole  for  the 
crosse  thereof,  but  his  design  never  took  effect  not  an  house 
being  built  there  save  and  that  scarcely  within  the  compass  of 
the  sands  assigned  his  towne,  yet  it  hath  four  faires  one  for 
every  quarter  of  the  year  that  give  the  names  of  the  New- 


14  CARRICT 

burgh  of  Girvan  to  these  sandy  knows  amongst  which  there 
is  one  spot  that  is  not  to  be  passed  without  observation,  which 
is  called  Knock  Oshin  upon  which  the  Head  Courts  of  this 
Jurisdiction  are  kept  and  held  and  all  the  Vassalls  compear 
there  and  seems  to  retaine  some  thing  of  the  ancient  custome 
of  our  Nation  that  the  Kings  Vassals  were  conveened  in  the 
feild  lyke  a  rendee  vous  of  souldiers  rather  then  in  ane  house 
for  Ceremony  and  attendance. 

The  other  principall  river  of  this  Countrey  is  Stincher  which 
ryses  in  and    makes   a   pleasant    strath  in  all  its 

Course  in  which  are  many  pleasant  seats  of  pettie  Heritors 
17.  and  substantiall  farmers  who  knowing  the  nature  of  the  soyle, 
to  be  fittest  for  pasturage,  breed  store  of  Cowes,  sheep,  and 
goats,  and  live  very  plentifully.  Below  the  ryse  of  it, 
myles  the  Countrey  opens  about  the  Ballage,  and  affbords 
pretty  plains  on  each  syde  of  the  River  which  is  somewhere 
again  shut  up  by  the  encroachment  of  some  litle  hills  and 
againe  is  dilated  into  broad  plaine  feilds  as  at  Dalherne  and  so 
makes  pleasant  Haughs  upon  one  or  other  syde  of  the  river, 
till  you  come  to  the  Barrehill,  upon  the  southwest  of  which, 
stands  the  Kirk  of  Barre  or  Brownhill  which  is  a  new  erection 
for  the  convenience  of  the  extreme  places  of  the  old  Parishes 
of  Daillie  and  Girvan  and  the  dwellers  in  the  remote  corners 
on  the  borders  of  Galloway  upon  the  waters  of  Cree  and 
Menock.  From  the  said  Kirk  the  trough  of  the  water  con- 
tinues pretty  open  and  has  pleasant  dwellings  all  upon  each 
syde  of  the  water  as  Antanalbany,  Dowlarg,  Achinsoul, 
Bennan,  Monnucion  for  the  space  of  three  myles,  till  you  come 
to  Corseclayes  that  stands  upon  the  confluence  of  Muik  and 
Stincher  the  hills  growing  close  and  high  upon  the  North  and 
West  thereof,  leave  the  place  open  to  the  East  and  South  and 
then  running  twixt  two  hills  is  shutt  up  by  them  upon  the 
South  and  North,  till  you  come  to  Daljarrach,  which  stands 
upon  the  North  syde  of  the  river  at  the  head  of  a  pleasant 
plaine,  looking  westward,  below  which  Stincher  receives  Dusk 
and  just  above  their  meeting,  stands  the  old  castle  of  Pin- 
whirrie  and  up  Dusk  a  little  stands  the  house  of  Glendusk  on 
the  rysing  ground,  below  which  lye  large  fields  of  excellent 
meadow  and  a  myle  upward  stands  the  house  of  Kildonan  upon 


CARRICT  15 

the  Eastsyde  of  the  water,  and  below  the  influxe  of  Dusk  into 
Stincher  stands  the  Craig  on  the  Northsyde  of  the  river  and  in 
a  higher  ground,  and  a  litle  downe  the  river  on  the  Southsyde 
stands  Dalreoch  on  a  rysing  ground,  but  the  Hills  upon  the 
south  come  so  close  upon  it,  and  so  high  that  they  cover  is. 
from  the  sun  in  the  short  days.  And  a  litle  downeward  and 
in  the  low  ground  upon  the  brink  of  the  water  stands  Bardro- 
chatt  and  just  above  it  upon  the  hill  on  an  ascent  of  difficult 
accesse  stands  the  strong  castle  of  Craigneil,  which  belongs  to 
the  Earl  of  Cassillis  and  gives  designation  to  a  barony  of  land 
lyand  round  it.  opposite  to  which  on  the  northsyde  on  a 
ground  mounted  above  the  water,  stands  the  kirk  and  clachan 
of  Calmonell  and  hard  by  it  the  house  of  Kirkhill,  which  gives 
the  title  to  Sir  Thomas  Kennedy  late  provost  of  Edr.  A  myle 
below  this  stands  the  house  of  Knockdolian  on  the  east  foot  of 
Knockdolian  Hill,  the  seat  of  the  McKubbens  about  which  is 
shewen  what  art  and  industrie  can  doe  to  render  a  place,  to 
which  nature  hath  not  been  favourable,  very  pleasant  by 
planting  of  Gardens,  Orchards  walks  and  rows  of  trees  that 
surprise  the  beholder  with  things  so  far  beyond  expectation  in 
a  countrey  so  wild  and  mountainous.  This  hill  lyes  Northwest 
of  the  house  and  mounts  up  with  a  small  top  as  if  it  would 
pierce  the  skies.  It  is  the  highest  of  all  the  countrey,  about 
the  top  whereof  when  any  mist  is  seen,  tis  the  forerunner  of 
foul  weather,  and  is  the  countreymans  almanack.  When  the 
river  of  Stincher  has  past  this  Hill,  It  receives  the  water  of 
Tig  about  whose  influxe  into  it,  are  the  remains  of  an  old 
church  called  Innertig  or  Kirkudbright  the  ancient  parish 
church  of  Balantrae.  Below  which  influxe  there  is  a  pleasant 
Haugh  of  low  grounds  till  the  falling  into  the  sea,  which  of 
late  has  been  quyte  ruined  and  spoyled  by  the  rivers  forcing 
its  course  out  of  its  ancient  channell  and  breaking  in  upon 
the  same  that  it  is  neither  fitt  for  grass  nor  corns.  At  the 
foot  of  this  water  stands  the  towne  of  Balantrae  on  the  north- 
syde on  a  pleasant  foreland,  which  some  years  agoe  has  been 
much  resorted  to  by  reason  of  an  herring  fishing  about  the 
Christmasse  tyme  but  that  has  ceased  above  30  years  past.  id. 
In  this  towne  is  the  parish  church  and  in  it  an  Isle  the 
Buriall  place  of  the  Lord  Bargeny  opposite  to  which  on  the 


16  CARRICT— MAYBOLL 

other  syde  there  is  a  rich  Conneyware  and  in  the  mouth  of 
the  river  the  best  salmond  fishing  in  Carrick,  all  which  belong 
to  the  Lord  Bargeny. 

As  to  the  Civill  Jurisdiction  of  this  Countrey,  It  is  a 
Bailliarie  and  belongs  heretablie  to  the  Earl  of  Casillis  who 
exercises  his  power  by  a  depute  and  has  the  priviledge  to 
appoynt  his  owne  clerk  without  dependence  either  upon  the 
Secretary  or  Register.  The  ordinary  seat  of  the  Courts  of 
Justice  is  at  the  towne  of  Mayboll  on  thursday,  though  the 
meeting  of  their  head  court  be  at  a  little  Hillock  or  Know 
called  Knockoshin  in  the  bounds  designed  for  the  new  towne 
of  Girvan.  All  the  Inhabitants  of  the  Countrey  answer  to 
this  Court  both  for  civill  debts  and  crymes  except  these 
who  live  within  the  precinct  of  the  two  spiritualities  viz : 
the  Regality  of  Crosse  Raguel  and  the  Regality  of  the 
Monckland  depending  on  Melrosse  above  mentioned,  but 
now  those  being  all  united  in  the  person  of  the  Earle 
of  Cassillis,  there  are  no  separate  Courts  held  upon  that 
account,  nor  any  priviledge  pleaded  for  them  in  prejudice 
of  the  Baillie  Court.  The  offices  of  Depute  or  Clerk  are 
advantagious  posts  to  any  the  Earle  bestowes  them  upon  for 
by  the  plenty  of  wood  and  water  in  this  Countrey  which  tempt 
men  to  fish  and  cutt  scob  or  wattles  for  necessary  uses,  they 
find  a  way  yearly  to  levy  fines  for  cutting  of  green  wood  and 
killing  fry  or  fish  in  prohibite  tyme,  that  makes  a  revenue  to 
these  offices  and  is  a  constant  taxe  upon  the  people. 

In  all  this  Countrey  there  is  not  any  Town  corporat  save 
one  viz.  Mayboll  which  is  nether  a  burgh  royall  for  it  sends 
20.  no  Commisioner  to  the  Parliament,  nor  is  it  merely  a 
burgh  of  barony,  such  having  only  a  power  to  keep  mercats 
and  a  magistracy  setled  amongst  them  in  dependence  on  the 
Baron  of  the  place,  but  here  it  is  quyte  otherwayes,  for  they 
have  a  charter  from  the  King  erecting  them  into  a  burgh  with 
a  Towne  Councill  of  sixteen  persons  for  manadging  the  common 
concerns  of  the  burgh  with  power  to  them  to  elect  from 
amongst  themselves  two  Bailies  their  Clerk  and  Treasurere 
and  to  keep  Courts  for  maintaining  order  amongst  the  Inhabi- 
tants and  to  admitt  burgesses  of  their  Corporation.  It  is  true 
indeed  the  Earle  of  Cassillis  is  the  Superiour  of  all  the  land 


MAYBOLL  17 

whereupon  the  town  is  built  but  they  deny  him  to  be  their 
superiour  in  their  Constitution  as  a  burgh  and  disputed  their 
right  with  him,  during  the  dependence  of  which  action,  he  as 
Baron  sett  up  a  Baron  baillie  to  exercise  authority  over  the 
Inhabitants  and  to  lessen  the  magistrats  authority  but  the 
people  being  poor  and  divided  amongst  themselves  and  the 
Earle  being  gott  into  the  government,  upon  the  revolution 
they  were  forced  to  submitt  and  yeild  to  his  pretensions. 

This  Towne  of  Mayboll  stands  upon  an  ascending  ground 
from  East  to  West,  and  lyes  open  to  the  South,  It  hath  one 
principall  street  declining  towards  the  East.  It  is  pretty  well 
fenced  from  the  North  by  a  higher  ridge  of  hills  that  lyes 
above  it  at  a  small  distance  northward.  It  hath  one  principall 
street  with  houses  on  both  sydes  built  of  free  stone  and  it  is 
beautifyed  with  the  situation  of  two  Castles  one  at  each  end  of 
this  street.  That  on  the  East  belongs  to  the  Earle  of  Cassillis 
beyond  which  Eastward  stands  a  great  new  building,  which  be 
his  granaries,  on  the  west  end  is  a  Castle  which  belonged 
sometyme  to  the  Laird  of  Blairquhan,  which  is  now  the  Tol- 
buith  and  is  adorned  with  a  pyramide  and  a  row  of  Ballesters 
round  it  raised  upon  the  top  of  the  staire  case,  into  which 
they  have  mounted  a  fyne  clock.  There  be  four  Lanes  which 
passe  from  the  principall  street.  One  is  called  the  back  3 
Venall  which  is  steep  declining  to  the  southeast,  and  leads  to 
a  lower  street,  which  is  far  longer  than  the  high  chiefe  street, 
and  it  runs  from  the  Kirkland  to  the  Weltrees  in  which  there 
have  been  many  pretty  buildings  belonging  to  the  severall 
Gentry  of  the  countrey  who  were  wont  to  resort  hither  in 
winter  and  divert  themselves  in  converse  together  at  their 
owne  houses.  It  was  once  the  principall  street  of  the  towne, 
but  many  of  these  houses  of  the  Gentry  being  decayed  and 
ruined,  it  has  lost  much  of  its  ancient  beautie.  Just  opposit 
to  this  Venall  there  is  another  that  leads  North  West  from  the 
chiefe  street  to  the  Green  which  is  a  pleasant  plott  of  ground 
enclosed  round  with  an  Earthen  wall  wherein  they  were  wont 
to  play  at  football  but  now  at  the  Gowffe  and  Byasse  bowls. 
At  the  Eastend  of  the  principall  street  are  other  two  lanes, 
the  one  called  the  fore  Venall  carryes  northward,  the  other 
furder  East  upon  the  chiefe  street  passes  to  the  south  East, 

VOL.  ii.  B 


18  MAYBOLL 

and  is  called  the  Kirk  Venall  and  is  the  great  resort  of  the 
people  from  the  towne  to  the  church.  The  houses  of  this 
towne  on  both  sydes  of  the  street,  have  their  severall  gardens 
belonging  to  them,  and  in  the  lower  street  there  be  some 
pretty  orchards  that  yeild  store  of  good  fruit.  The  church  is 
very  capacious,  well  furnished  with  seats  below  and  lofts  or 
Galleries  above,  the  principal!  whereof  is  that  belonging  to 
the  Earl  of  Cassillis.  On  the  Eastend  of  the  Isle  there  is  the 
Session  Loft  well  adorned  with  two  rowes  of  seats  a  higher 
and  lower  round  about  it,  for  the  accomodation  of  the  people 
who  are  wont  to  be  catechised  in  this  apartment.  The  schoole 
is  upon  the  East  end  of  the  Church  separated  from  it  by  a 
partition  of  timber  wherein  doors  and  windowes  open  to  give 
them  not  only  a  prospect  into  the  church  but  opportunity  of 
hearing  at  the  greatest  distance. 

In  this  Jurisdiction  there  be  Nyne  churches,  all  of  them 
built  of  good  free  stone  and  covered  with  skleit  made  so  capa- 
cious as  to  containe  the  people  of  the  respective  parishes, 
and  they  are  generally  all  of  them  very  well  endowed  with 
competent  maintenance  and  other  good  accomodations  for  the 
minister,  having  all  of  them  tolerable  good  manses  and  gleibs. 
These  Nyne  Churches  have  sometyme  been  a  distinct  Presbyterie 
under  the  name  of  the  Presbyterie  of  Mayboll  which  therby 
appears  to  have  been  the  seat  thereof,  which  seems  very  rea- 
sonable as  being  most  capable  to  lodge  such  as  on  that  account 
should  resort  thither  and  having  the  presence  of  the  Magistracy 
to  assist  and  second  the  exercise  of  discipline.  And  of  late 
ane  essay  was  made  for  erecting  it  anew  under  the  designation 
of  the  Presbyterie  but  there  being  difficulty  to  satisfie  the 
parties  anent  the  seat  thereof  it  was  let  fall.  All  the  tyme 
that  they  acted  distinctly,  the  Meeting  were  either  circular 
lyke  visitations  or  by  turns  at  Girvan  and  Mayboll.  The 
Nyne  Parishes  are  Mayboll,  Kirkmichael,  Straton,  Barre, 
Calmonel,  Balantrae,  Girvan,  Daillie  and  Kirkoswald. 

The  parish  of  Mayboll  is  very  large  and  populous  extending 
from  the  sea  and  water  of  Dun  to  the  water  of  Girvan  about 
Dolduffe  and  westward.  Besyde  the  large  church  now  used 
for  public  worship  there  be  other  religious  places  such  as  the 
Collegiat  Church  and  Kirkbryde  and  other  chappells  whereof 


KIRKMICHAEL— STRATOWNE— BARRE         19 

mention  is  made  above.  The  Lord  Bargeny  is  patron  thereof 
though  he  have  small  or  no  Interest  therein.  There  be  a 
great  number  of  gentry  living  therein  who  have  pretty  dwell- 
ings in  commodious  places  throughout  the  parish,  some  of 
which  we  have  already  named  and  shall  remember  them  againe 
in  the  general  reckoning  viz:  Dolduffe,  Kilheignie,  AchinWind, 
Bogend,  Smithstowne,  Monkwood,  Damme,  Knockdone, 
Sauchry,  Craigshean,  Beoch,  Garirhorne,  Dunduffe  a  house  on 
the  coast  never  finished  Glenayes,  Greenand,  Newark,  Bridg- 
end,  Blairstoune  and  Archindraine.  Many  of  those  are  sweet 
and  desyreable  places,  but  for  the  good  building  gardens 
orchards  and  all  other  accomodations  Kilheignie  is  the  23. 
chiefe,  lying  about  a  short  myle  south  from  the  towne  of 
May  boll. 

The  parish  of  Kirkmichael  lyes  in  length  east  and  west,  and 
is  a  mensall  kirk  of  the  Bishop  of  Galloway  who  is  patron 
thereof.  It  stands  hard  upon  the  rivulet  of  Dyorock  has  no 
Clachan  by  it.  In  this  parish  are  these  houses  Cassillis  the 
mansion  house  of  the  Earle  of  Cassillis,  Kirkmichael,  Clon- 
caird,  Blairquhan,  Kilmore  and  Montgomerystone. 

The  parish  of  Stratowne  lyes  East  and  south  toward  the 
Stewartree  of  Galloway.  The  church  stands  upon  a  ground 
declining  to  the  westward.  The  King  is  in  possession  of  the 
patronadge  thereof  having  slipt  from  the  Abbot  of  Crosse- 
raguel,  to  whom  it  seems  to  appertaine  because  the  Tyth  hold 
of  that  Abbacy.  There  be  no  Gentry  live  here  save  Shaw  of 
Keirs  and  Shaw  of  Geimmet  toward  the  water  of  Dun. 

The  parish  of  Barre  is  but  a  late  erection  for  accomodation 
of  the  extreme  parts  of  the  parishes  of  Daillie  and  Girvan. 
The  patron  hereof  is  the  Bishop  of  Dumblaine  in  the  right  of 
holding  the  Abbacy  of  Crosseraguel.  In  this  parish  below 
the  Church  on  the  North  syde  of  the  water  on  the  higher 
ground  stands  the  chappell  called  Kirk  Domine  at  which  there 
is  ane  yearly  fare  and  the  custom  levyed  by  Alexr.  of  Kirk- 
land.  None  dwell  here  but  petty  Heretors  in  common  ordinary 
houses  as  Doherne  Barre  Dinmuchre  Antanalbany  Achinsoul 
Bennan  Monuncion  and  Bellimore.  It  is  of  vast  bounds 
reaching  from  Stincher  to  Galloway  twixt  which  lye  vast 
bounds  of  moorish  and  barren  ground. 


20      CALMONELL— BALANTHAE— KIRKOSWALD 

The  Parish  of  Calmonell  is  of  yet  larger  extent  some  places 
in  these  moorish  countreys  lying  at  ten  myles  distance  from 
the  Church.  The  patron  hereof  is  the  Lord  Bargeny.  In  this 
parish  are  severall  very  good  houses  for  the  Heretors  residence 
94.  as  Corseclayes,  Daljarroch,  Kildonan,  Glenduiske,  Craig, 
Dalreoch,  Craigneil,  Kirkhill,  Knockdolians,  Knockdaw  and 
Carleton.  Craigneil  belongs  to  the  E.  of  Cassillis  &  Knockdaw 
to  Bargeny  so  they  are  no  places  of  ther  residence. 

The  parish  of  Balantrae  is  of  a  great  extent  though  the 
people  be  not  numerous,  the  Clachan  is  pretty  populous.  The 
patron  hereof  is  the  King,  and  the  Lord  Bargeny  pretends 
mightily  to  it,  but  upon  examination  it  will  be  found  to 
belong  to  the  abbacy  of  Crosseraguell :  The  residing  heretors 
are  but  few,  and  their  dwellings  are  mean  and  homely  being 
Glenour  Bennan  and  Carlosk  and  Glentig  there  is  neither 
orchard  nor  fruit  tree  in  it  all  And  Ardstincher  above  men- 
tioned is  North  East  from  this  a  wynd  mill  lately  built. 

The  parish  of  Girvan  is  populous  lying  contiguous  to  the 
sea  &  the  champaigne  ground  upon  the  water  of  Girvan  on 
both  sydes.  The  patron  thereof  is  the  Bishop  of  Dumblaine 
in  the  right  of  the  Abbacy  of  Dumblane.  The  houses  of  the 
Gentry  here  are  Ardmillan  Balachtoule  Troweir  Trochrig. 
•  The  parish  of  Daillie  lyes  in  length  East  and  west  on  both 
sydes  of  Girvan,  more  populous  then  spacious.  The  patron 
hereof  is  the  Bishop  of  Dumblain  in  the  right  of  the  Abbacy 
of  Crosseraguel.  This  parish  abounds  with  Gentry  and  man- 
sionhouses  all  alongst  Girvan  which  gives  a  very  delightful! 
prospect  to  any  who  from  tlje  top  of  the  Hills,  that  guard  the 
same,  shall  look  downe  upon  that  pleasant  Trough.  They  are 
Pinkill,  Killochan,  Bargeny,  Brunstowne,  Dalquharran, 
Moorestowne,  Drummochrin,  Drumburle,  Drummellan,  and 
Barclanachan. 

The  parish  of  Kirkoswald  is  pretty  populous  because  of  the 
coast  syde  whereof  it  consists  and  is  all  the  pleasure 
S5.  thereof,  for  the  place  of  the  Churches  situation  is  very  obscure 
and  unpleasant  being  twixt  two  hills  at  the  end  of  A  bogue 
and  Marish.  The  church  is  a  good  fabrick  and  well  furnished, 
the  patron  hereof  is  the  Bishop  of  Dumblane  in  the  right  of 
the  Abbacy  of  Crosseraguell,  the  fabrick  of  which  Abbey 


FORFAR-SHYRE  21 

stands  within  this  parish.  The  Monks  were  of  the  Cistercian 
Order,  the  situation  thereof  is  no  ways  pleasant.  The  fabrick 
of  the  Church  is  entyre  without  a  roofe,  much  of  the  building 
is  demolished,  yet  there  be  two  towers  still  standing  entyre  in 
ther  walls.  It  stands  about  midway  twixt  Mayboll  and 
Kirkoswald.  The  houses  of  the  Gentry  residing  in  this  parish 
are  the  Cove,  Thomastowne,  Beltersan,  and  Balsarach  and 
Thrave,  the  two  last  are  obscure  Countrey  dwellings.  But 
Beltersan  is  a  stately  Fyne  house  with  gardens  Orchards  parks 
and  woods  about  it,  lying  from  Mayboll  about  ane  Myles  dis- 
tance. The  Cove  is  the  Mansionhouse  of  Sir  Archbald 
Kennedy  of  Colaine  and  takes  its  name  hence  that  under  the 
outer  area  of  this  house  there  be  three  naturall  coves  which 
enter  laigh  at  the  water  mark,  from  the  one  they  enter  up- 
ward to  a  higher  by  ane  easie  ascent  but  the  entry  to  the 
third  is  more  difficult  being  both  low  in  the  entry  and  strait, 
and  in  the  highest  of  them  there  is  a  spring  of  very  good 
water. 


INFORMATION  for  Sir  ROBERT  SIBBALD  anent ; 
the  Shyre  of  FORFAR  by  Mr 

OUCHTERLONY  of  GuiNDE. 

The  Shyre  of  Forfar  so  called  from  the  head-burgh  thereof 
is  divided  in  fyve  Presbetries  viz.  Forfar,  Dundie,  Migill, 
Brechine  and  Aberbrothock  and  hath  therein  fyve  royall 
burghs  viz.  Forfar,  Dundie,  Brechine,  Montross  and  Aber- 
brothock burghs  of  regalitie  two  Kerremuir  and  Couper,  divers 
burghs  of  barronie  as  Glammes  Edziel  burgh  Easthavene  of 
Panmure  &c.  The  Judicatories  thereof  are  the  Shirrefcourt 
whereof  the  Earles  of  Southesque  are  heretable  shirrefes.  four 
Church  regalities  viz.  Aberbrothock,  Brechine  and  Couper, 
whereof  the  Earles  of  Airlie  are  heretable  Bailzies,  Rescobie 
whereof  the  Earles  of  Crawfurd  are  heretable  Bailies,  the 
Archbishop  of  St.  Andre'wes  being  Lord  of  the  Regalitie  and 
the  whole  lands  thereof  hold  of  him  some  feu,  some  waird, 
but  the  other  thrie  hold  of  the  King  feu,  and  are  all  oblidged 
as  a  pairt  of  the  Reddendo  of  ther  charters  to  give  suit  and 


22  FORFAR-SHYRE 

presence  at  thrie  head  courts  in  the  yeir  at  ther  respective 
burghs  abovewritten.  Item  one  temporall  regalitie  Kerre- 
muir  whereof  the  Marquis  of  Douglas  is  Lord  of  erectione  and 
directs  his  Brieves  for  inquests  out  of  his  own  Chancelerie 
and  hath  a  depute  residing  in  the  shyre,  the  whole  regalitie 
hold  of  him  either  waird  or  feu,  the  Bishop  of  Brechine  hath 
his  Commissariot  Court  at  Brechine  his  sea  where  are  diverse 
other  Courts  of  the  Kings  barrens  and  burghs  royall  within 
ther  own  bounds.  The  militia  of  the  shyre  is  one  regiment 
consisting  of  one  thousand  foot  commanded  by  the  Earle  of 
Strathmore  Colon  ell,  Laird  of  Edziell  Lieutenent  Collonell, 
Laird  of  Pitcur  Major,  two-troups  of  horse  consisting  both  of 
103  hors  one  thereof  commanded  by  the  Earl  of  Airlie,  the 
other  by  the  Lord  Carnegy.  The  length  of  the  shyre  from 
east  to  west  viz.  from  the  burne  of  Innergourie  upon  the  west 
which  divides  the  shyre  of  Perth,  to  the  water  of  Northesk  on 
,  the  east  which  divides  the  shyre  from  the  shyre  of  Kin- 
cardine is  28  myles  and  from  any  place  of  the  coast  on  the 
southsyd  to  Bra  Mar  on  the  Northsyd  will  be  much  about  the 
same,  the  hill  of  Glenquiech  its  thought  will  be  the  center. 
It  is  an  excellent  countrie  alongst  the  coast,  which  we  call  the 
length  thereof  exceedingly  fruitfull  of  all  kynd  of  graine  thrie 
good  harbours  for  shipping  as  shall  be  spoken  of  in  their  own 
place,  severall  h'shertouns  as  Northferrie,  Panbryd  Easthavene 
of  Panmure,  Auchmutie  Ulishavene  Ferredene.  diverse  sal- 
mond  fishings  on  the  rivers  of  Tay,  North  and  Southesk. 
diverse  Gentlemens  houses,  cuningares  and  dovcoats  as  is  in 
all  the  rest  of  the  shyre  and  shall  be  described  in  ther 
proper  place,  and  are  aboundantly  provided  of  peat  and  turf 
for  feuell,  great  abundance  of  cattle  sheep  and  horse  especially 
the  brae  countrey  who  have  great  breeds  of  cattle  sheep  goat 
and  hors  and  in  all  the  laigh  countrey  for  the  most  part 
except  in  some  few  places  on  the  coast  where  they  are  scarce 
of  grass.  All  breed  als  many  as  sufficiently  serve  themselve 
but  the  chief  breeds  in  the  shyre  are  the  Earles  of  Strathmore, 
Southeske,  Panmure,  Edzell,  Pourie,  Balnamoone  both  for 
horses  and  cattle.  The  principall  rivers  of  the  Shyre  are 
North  Esk,  having  its  beginning  at  a  great  distance  in  the 
Highlands  and  falls  into  the  sea  four  myles  be  east  Montross. 


FORFAR-SHYRE  23 

Southesc^  hes  lykwayes  its  beginning  in  the  highlands  and 
runneth  through  a  pairt  of  that  excellent  countrie  called 
Strathmore  by  the  towne  of  Brechine  and  thence  to  Montross 
where  it  maketh  an  excellent  harbour  and  falleth  in  the  sea, 
The  water  of  Lounane  hath  its  beginning  in  the  mosses  of 
Loure  and  falleth  in  the  sea  at  Reidcastle,  alongst  that  river 
is  that  fyne  litle  countrey  called  Strathbegg.  Begg  ane  Irish 
word  signifies  litle  and  mor,  great  Brothock  having  its  begin- 
ning in  the  meadowes  of  the  Leyes,  and  running  by  the  & 
walls  of  the  yeards  of  Aberbrothock  falls  in  the  sea.  Dichtie 
having  its  beginning  in  the  loch  of  Lundie,  runneth  through  a 
very  fyne  countrey  called  Strath  Dichtie-Martine  and  falleth 
in  the  sea  at  Moniefieth  four  myles  east  from  Dundie.  Gourie 
which  hath  its  beginning  in  the  hills  of  the  Carse  of  Gourie 
and  falleth  in  the  river  of  Tay  at  Innergourie  four  myles  be 
west  Dundie.  Carbit  taking  its  beginning  in  the  Mosses  of 
Dilla  and  Hyndcastle  runneth  by  the  castle  Glammes  and 
thence  West  till  it  joyrie  with  ane  other  water  called  the 
water  of  Dean  coming  from  the  Loch  of  Forfar  and  run  Vjoth 
together  westward  and  is  called  Dean  untill  they  meet  with 
ane  other  water  coming  from  Glenyla,  and  all  thrie  running 
west  together  are  called  the  water  of  Glenyla,  untill  they  falJ 
in  the  river  of  Tay  six  myles  above  Perth,  and  there  loose  ther 
name,  and  these  with  many  others  make  the  river  of  Tay  the 
greatest  river  in  Scotland  and  is  navigable  to  the  toune  of 
Perth,  and  falleth  in  the  sea  six  myles  from  the  toune  of 
Dundie  at  a  place  called  the  Gae  of  Barrie,  there  are  severall 
other  small  rivers  which  I  judge  imnecessare  to  speake  off. 
There  are  two  Abbeyes  viz.  Aberbrothock  and  Couper,  one 
Pryorie  Restennet  with  severall  other  religious  houses  all  now 
ruinat  and  demolished,  several  great  Lochs  abounding  with 
severall  kind  of  fresh  water  fishes,  as  Pykes,  Pearches  and  Elles, 
all  kind  of  water  foul  and  swans  breeding  in  some  of  them. 
The  lochs  are  Lundie  Kinnordie,  Glames,  Forfar,  Restennet, 
Rescobie,  Balgayes  Balmadies,  Barrie.  Abundance  of  Parks 
and  Inclosures  which  shall  be  spoken  to  in  ther  own  proper 
place,  great  plentie  of  wyld  foul  in  all  the  places  of  the  coun- 
trey especially  in  the  highlands  wher  ther  are  great  plenty  of 
Muirfoules  and  Heathfoules  and  others,  some  heart  and  -hynd 


24  FORFAR-SHYRE 

29.  Roebuck  and  Does  in  the  low  countrey  abundance  of  pat- 
ridges  plivers  dotrills,  quailes,  snips,  and  other  small  foules 
in  great  plentie  besides  birds  of  prey  as  hawks  of  all  kynds, 
ravens  crows  and  such  lyk,  all  kynd  of  salt  and  fresh  waterfoul 
and  one  especiallie  Kittiewauks  nothing  inferior  in  tast  to  the 
solangeese  of  the  Basse.  The  countrey  aboundeth  in  quarries 
of  freestone  excellent  for  hewing  and  cutting  especiallie  one  at 
the  Castle  of  Glammes  far  exceeding  all  others  in  the  shyre  of 
a  blewish  colour,  excellent  milne  stones  great  abundance  of 
sklait  and  Lymestone  in  diverse  places  ane  excellent  lead  mine 
in  Glenesk  belonging  to  the  Laird  of  Edzell,  all  alongst  the 
sea  coast  there  is  abundance  of  that  wee  call  ware,  in  Latine 
alga  marina  cast  up  by  the  sea  and  is  gathered  by  the  people 
and  carried  to  ther  land  which  occasions  a  great  increase  of 
cornes,  where  it  is  laid,  there  are  abundance  of  amphibious 
creatures  bred  in  the  rocks  betwixt  Arbroth  and  Ethie  called 
sea  calves  who  gender  as  other  beast  doe,  and  bring  furth  ther 
young  onesjin  the  dry  caves,  whereof  there  is  abundance  and 
suck  them  there  till  they  be  of  some  bigness  and  strength  to 
swime  in  the  water,  the  old  ones  are  of  a  hudge  bignes  nigh 
to  ane  ordinare  ox  but  longer,  have  no  leggs  but  in  place 
thereof  four  finnes  in  shape  much  lyk  to  a  mans  hand  where- 
upon they  goe,  but  slowly  in  the  end  of  September,  which  is 
the  tyme  they  goe  aland  for  calving.  Several!  in  the  toun  of 
Aberbrothock  goe  to  the  caves  with  boates  and  with  lighted 
candles  search  the  caves  where  apprehending  they  kill  diverse 
of  them  both  young  and  old,  whereof  they  make  very  good  oyll. 
There  is  lykwayes  of  them  in  the  river  of  Tay  but  smaller 
whereof  none  are  taken  or  any  benefit  made,  there  is  lykwayes 
ane  other  creature  in  shape  lyke  to  a  fish  called  a  mareswine 
and  will  be  of  twentie  or  four  and  twentie  foot  long,  all 

so.  alongst  the  coast  but  especially  in  the  river  of  Tay  where 
they  are  in  great  abundance  killing  a  great  deall  of  salmond 
and  doing  a  great  deall  of  injurie  to  the  fishings  in  thir  few 
yeires  there  were  great  numbers  cast  up  dead  all  alongst  the 
river  of  Tay  with  great  wounds  and  bytings  upon  ther  bodyes 
which  gave  occasion  to  conjectur  that  there  had  been  some 
fight  amongst  them  at  sea. 


FORFAR  PARISH  25 


PRESBETRIE  of  FORFAR. 

The  Presbetrie  of  Forfar  is  divided  in  twelve  parishes  Viz. 
Forfar,  Glames,  Khmetles,  Innerarite,  Methie,  Dunichine 
Aberlemno,  Rescobie,  Cortaquhie,  Clovay,  Tannadyce,  Kerre- 
niuir. 

Forfar  is  a  large  parish,  both  toune  and  landward  hath  but 
one  minister  called  Mr.  Small,  the  toune  are  patrons  of  the 
church  and  is  in  the  Diocese  of  St.  Andrewes.  the  toune  of 
Forfar  being  a  burgh  royall  hath  a  provest  two  Bailzies  have 
Commissioners  at  Parliaments,  Convention  of  Estates  and 
Borrowes  John  Carnegy  Provost  and  Commissioner  to  the 
Parliament.  It  is  a  very  ancient  toune  and  we  find  in  historie 
the  first  Parliament  that  was  ryden  in  Scotland,  was  kept  ther 
also  King  Malcome  Canmore  had  a  house  and  lived  frequentlie 
there,  the  ruines  of  the  house  are  yet  to  be  seen  in  a  place 
called  the  Castlehill.  at  litle  distance  is  ane  other  litle  mott 
where  the  Queens  lodgings  were,  called  to  this  day  Queen's 
Manore.  It  is  a  considerable  litle  towne  and  hath  some  litle 
iicvd'"  of  cremrie  ware  and  linen  cloath  and  such  lyke.  It  is 
prettie  weel  built.  Many  good  stone  houses  sklaited  therein 
and  are  presently  building  a  very  stately  croce,  hath  a  large 
church  &  steeple  well  finished  with  bells,  they  have  some 
publick  revenue  and  a  good  deal  of  mortifications  to  ther  poor 
doled  by  the  bountie  of  some  of  ther  townsmen  who  going 
abroad  became  rich.  They  have  a  good  tolbuith  with  a  bell 
on  it.  They  have  four  great  faires  yeirly  and  a  weekly  mercat. 
The  Shirref  keeps  his  Courts  there,  and  all  publick  and 
privat  meetings  of  the  Shy  re  both  in  tyme  of  peace  and  war, 
are  kept  there.  They  have  been  very  famous  for  their  loyaltie 
especiallie  in  that  base  transaction  when  King  Charles  the  first 
of  ever  blissed  memorie  was  delyvered  over  by  our  Scots  Parlia- 
ment to  the  Inglish  at  Newcastle  Strang  the  then 
Provost  of  Forfar  did  enter  his  protestatione  publictly  against 
the  same  and  presently  rose  from  the  table  and  deserted  the 
meeting,  which  this  present  king  Charles  the  2d  so  much 
resented  that  he  called  for  the  persone  and  publictly  spoke 
to  his  advantage  and  added  something  to  the  priviledges  and 


KINNETLES— GLAMES 


immunities  of  the  place  he  represented.  In  the  landward  parish 
therof  there  are  severall  gentlemens  houses  as  Meikle-Loure  a 
good  hous  and  well  planted  with  an  excellent  Moss  good  comes 
and  well  grassed  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Northesk.  Balma- 
shanner  an  old  familie  belonging  to  Patrick  Cairncroce.  Hal- 
kertoune  Gray.  Tarbeg  Gray  with  a  good  moss  the  place  is  very 
ear  and  lyes  in  that  excellent  countrey  of  Strathmore. 

Kinnetles  Mr.  Tailieor  Minister  in  the  Diocese  of  St. 
Andrewes.  Bishop  of  Edr.  patrone  hath  in  it.  the  house  of 
Bridgetoune  belonging  to  Lyon  a  grandchild  of  the 

house  of  Strathmore  ;  a  good  house  well  planted,  excellent 
yeard  &  orchards  very  fruitful  1  in  bear  and  oats  and  abund- 
ance of  grass.  Kinnetles  ane  excellent  corne  place,  a  tolerable 
good  hous  belonging  to  Patrick  Bowar  a  burgess  in  Dundie 
it  lyes  upon  the  water  of  Carbit. 

Glames  the   Castle  of  Glames  E.   of  Strathmores  speciall 
residence   in    the    shyre,  a   great   and    excellent   hous  newly 
reedified  and  furnished  most  stately  with  every  thing  necessare, 
with  excellent  gaites,  avenues,  courts  gairdin  bouling-greens, 
Parks,  inclosures,  hay  meadowes  and  planting  very  beautifull 
and  pleasant  lying  upon  the  river  Carbit  at  that  place  called 
the  Water  of  Glames,  where  there  is  hard  by  the  house  two 
great  Bridges,  one  of  stone  of  two  arches  and  an  other  of 
timber,  als  large  as  the  other  be  east  the  house  and  within  the 
park  is  another  called  the  yeat  bridge  by  which  ther  whole 
peats  are  brought  and  by  which  his  Lo:  is  served  from  his 
mosses  be  north  the  water  in  great  abundance  and  hath  ane 
other  litle  house  there  called  Cossines    In  a  litle  distance  to 
the  Castle  of  Glames  is  the  toune  thereof  all  belonging  to  the 
E.  it  is  a  burgh  of  barronie,  hath  two  great  faires  in  it  yeirly 
and  a  weekly  mercat.     there  is  a  cuningare  within  the  park 
and  dovecoat  at  the  burn.     Mr  Lyon  Minister  thereof  in  the 
Diocese  of  St.   Andrews.      The    E.   patrone.     the  familie  is 
very  ancient   and  honourable    one  of  the  Lords  of  Glames 
haveing  married  King  Robert  2d  his  daughter  and  got  at  that 
tyme  from  the  King  the  Thannadge  of  Tannadice  and  which 
he  still  enjoyes  at  this  time,     two  of  the  familie  have  been 
Chancellors  of  Scotland  and  a  third  Thesaurere.     the  present 
Earle  is  one  of  his  Majesties  privie  Counsell  and  was  one  of 


INNERARITIE— DUNICHINE  27 

the  Thesaurie  he  hath  many  considerable  vassals  in  the  Shyre. 
Glen  belonging  to  the  Laird  of  Claverhouse  Grahame  ane 
ancient  gentleman  of  good  extraction  and  great  estate  in  the 
Shyre,  a  pleasant  place  a  good  hous  and  well  planted,  excellent 
quarrie  of  fine  stone  and  sklait  well  furnished  of  peat  and 
turfe  and  in  the  hill  thereof  abundance  of  Muirfoull.  the 
sklait  is  carried  to  Dundie  on  horseback  and  from  thence  M. 
by  sea  to  all  places  within  the  river  of  Forth.  Dunoone 
belonging  to  George  Innes  the  Earle  of  Strathmore  superior. 

Inneraritie  and  Methie  are  now  joyned  in  one  parish  & 
have  but  one  minister  viz.  Mr  Grahame,  in  the  diocese  of 
St.  Andrews  the  Kings  Majestic  patrone.  Litle-Lour  is  a 
good  hous  belonging  to  the  E.  of  Northesk  who  is  superior  of 
the  haill  parish  of  Methie  well  appoynted  of  peat  and  turff* 
for  ther  own  and  the  countreyes  use  about.  Wester  Methie 
to  Patrick  Bower  of  Kinnetles  Easter  Methie  to  Alexr  Bower 
of  Kincaldrum,  the  kirk  of  Methie  is  ruinous  and  decayed. 
Barronie  of  Innerarite  belongs  to  the  Laird  of  Pourie 
Fotheringhame  with  a  house  of  that  same  name  with  a  great 
park  and  a  birkwood  therein.  Item  ane  other  excellent  new 
built  park  called  the  Park  of  Tarbra  and  Inverichtie  a  good 
house  belonging  to  Willm  Gray.  Kingoldrum  to  Alexr 
Bower  who  hath  a  considerable  interest  in  the  parish  pur- 
chased by  his  grandfather  a  burgess  of  Dundie,  this  parish 
lyes  on  both  sydes  of  the  water  of  Carbit. 

Dunichine  Barronie  of  Ouchterlony  which  formerly  belonged 
to  the  Lairds  of  Ouchterlony  of  that  ilk,  but  hath  no  house  on 
it,  is  a  considerable  thing,  and  a  plesant  place  belonging  to 
the  Earle  of  Southesk.  Barronie  of  Tulcorse  belonging  to 
John  Ouchterlony  of  Guynd  only  representative  of  the  forsaid 
familie  of  Ouchterlony  of  that  ilk.  Dumbarrow  Arrot  the 
parish  lyes  on  both  sydes  of  the  water  of  Lounane,  which  at 
that  place  is  called  Evenie.  the  Minister  called  Mr  Lindsay 
in  the  diocese  of  Brechine.  Earle  of  Panmure  patron  therof. 
Aberlemno  the  Chief  heretor  therof  is  the  Laird  of  Auldbar 
young  chief  of  his  name,  ane  excellent  and  great  house,  good 
yeards  and  planting  built  by  one  of  the  Earls  of  King- 
home  and  twyce  given  of  to  the  second  sons  of  the  34. 
house,  which  for  want  of  aires  returned  to  the  family  againe 


28  DUNICHINE— RESCOBIE 

and  was  laitly  sold  to  one  Sinclair  from  whom  this  present 
Laird  coft  the  same.  Melgund  belonging  to  the  aires  of  Alexr 
Murray  son  to  Sir  Robert  Murray  lait  provost  of  Edr.  ane 
excellent  hous  good  y cards  &  two  fyne  parks  and  much 
planting,  ane  excellent  utter  Court  before  the  gait  with  ex- 
cellent stone  walls  about  it.  the  house  built  by  Cardinall 
Beatone  and  the  parks  by  the  Marques  of  Huntlie  and  some 
addition  made  to  all  by  Henry  Maull  lait  Laird  thereof,  it  is  a 
very  sweet  and  pleasant  place,  fruitfull  in  comes  well  grassed 
and  abundantly  provyded  of  turf  as  is  also  Auldbar  and  the  rest 
of  the  parish  from  the  Muir  of  Montroymont.  Carsgounie 
belonging  to  Alexr  Campble.  Tilliequhadline  belonging  to 
the  ancient  name  of  Thornetoune  of  that  ilk.  Balgayes 
anciently  belonging  to  the  familie  of  Ouchterlony  of  that  ilk 
now  to  Mr  Jon  Wischeart  advocat  and  Comrnisser  of  Edr. 
representative  of  the  familie  of  Logic  Wisheart  and  chief  of 
his  name.  Mr  Ouchterlony  Minister  in  the  Diocese  of  St. 
Andre wes,  the  Kings  Majestic  and  the  Earle  of  Perth  patron 
who  presenter  vices. 

Rescobie,  there  are  severall  gentlemens  houses  therein  as 
Pitscandlie  Lindsay  a  good  hous  and  weel  planted,  the  old 
priorie  of  Restennet,  whereof  the  church  walls  and  steeple  are 
yet  extant  with  the  Loch  formerly  spoken  the  Earle  of  Strath- 
more  Pryor  dod  hunter.  Carsbank  Guthrie  Wester  Carse  a 
pleasant  place  well  planted  belonging  to  Sir  Patrick  Lyon 
advocat.  Drummie  Nisbet,  Balmadie  formerlie  belonging  to 
the  Lairds  of  Ouchterlony  of  that  ilk  and  was  the  mannore 
hous  of  the  family  and  their  burial  was  at  the  kirk  of 
35.  Rescobie  untill  they  purchased  the  lands  of  Kellie  where 
after  having  built  ane.  house,  they  changed  both  dwelling 
place  and  burial  with  ane  loch  abounding  with  pykes  pearches 
and  yels  and  all  kynd  of  fresh  water  fowls  as  all  the  other 
Lochs  thereabout  are,  and  further  in  the  Loch  of  Restennet 
do  swans  yearly  bring  furth  ther  young  ones,  ther  are  severall 
Eylarks  on  these  lochs  viz.  Balmadies,  Balgayes,  Restennet, 
Guthrie,  Pitmoues  Mr  Lyon  Minister,  in  the  diocese  of 
St.  Andrews.  E.  Strathmore  patrone. 

Tannadyce,  most  part  of  the  parish  belongs  to  the  Earl 
of  Strathmore  called  the  Thannadge  of  Tannadyce  and  was 


TANNADYCE— CORTAQUHIE— KERREMUIR      29 

by  King  Robert  2d  given  to  the  Lord  Glames  in  tocher 
with  his  daughter,  there  are  severall  gentlemens  houses  in 
the  parochine  besyd  as  Kinnatie,  Ogilvy,  Inshewane,  Ogilvy, 
Cairne  Lindsay,  Easter  and  wester  Ogels,  Lyons,  Whytwall 
Lyon,  Balgillie  Lyon,  Murthill,  Lyell  ane  ancient  familie  and 
chief  of  his  name,  a  pleasant  place  lying  upon  the  water  of 
South  Esk.  Memus,  Livingstoune,  Memus  Guthrie.  Mr  Lyon 
Minister,  in  the  diocese  of  St.  Andrews.' New  Colledge  thereof 
patrons  to  the  Church. 

Cortaquhie  and  Clovay.  Cortaquhie  the  E.  of  Airlies 
speciall  residence  is  a  good  hous  well  planted,  lyes  pleasantly 
on  the  water  of  Southesque,  the  whole  parish  belongs  to  the  E. 
Clovay  belonging  to  Sir  David  Ogilvy  brother  to  the  Earle  is 
a  fyne  highland  countrey  abounding  in  catle  and  sheep,  some 
cornes,  abundance  of  grass  and  Hay  as  all  the  highland 
countrey  es  of  the  Shy  re  are.  it  hath  a  chappel  and  some  bene- 
fice for  a  Vicar  that  reads  ther  every  Sabbath  day  and  the 
Minister  of  Cortaquhie  goes  every  third  Sabbath  and  preaches 
there,  the  family  is  very  ancient  and  honourable  and  have 
ever  been  very  famous  for  ther  loyaltie  especiallie  in  the  times 
of  our  civill  warrs.  the  lait  and  present  Earl  of  Airlie 
with  his  brethren  Sir  Thomas  who  dyed  in  his  Prince's  service  36. 
and  Sir  David  now  living,  have  with  diverse  others  of  their 
name  given  such  evident  testimonie  of  ther  loyaltie  to  ther 
Prince  that  will  make  them  famous  to  all  succeding  generationes 
which  doubtles  you  will  get  account  of  to  be  recorded  to  ther 
everlasting  honour.  Mr  Small  Minister  in  the  diocese  of 
Brechine,  the  Earl  patron e. 

Kerremuir,  a  burgh  of  regalitie  holden  for  the  most  pairt  of 
the  Laird  of  Pourie  Fotheringhame  who  holds  the  same  with 
the  Milne  of  Kerremuir  of  the  Marques  of  Douglas  the  rest  of 
the  Laird  of  Innerarite,  who  holds  it  in  the  same  way.  a  very 
ancient  and  honourable  family  of  the  name  of  Ogilvy,  who 
have  been  lykwayes  very  remarkable  for  their  loyaltie.  Sir 
Thomas  young  Laird  thereof  being  execute  at  Glasgow  for  his 
concurrence  in  his  Majesties  service  with  his  Commissioner  the 
Marques  of  Montross.  and  his  second  brother  Sir  David 
father  to  the  present  Laird  suffered  very  much  be  imprison- 
ment being  taken  prisoner  at  Worcester  where  he  lay  long  was 


30  PRESBETRIE  OF  DUNDEE 

fyned  and  his  estate  sequestrat  for  a  long  tyme  by  the  rebells, 
it  is  a  great  estate,  a  good  old  hous,  fyne  yeards  and  much 
planting  it  lyeth  pleasantlie  upon  the  waters  of  Southesque 
Carritie  Glenprossine  a  fyne  highland  Interest  belonging 
to  the  Laird  of  Bandoch  in  Perthshyre,  it  lyes  at  a  great  dis- 
tance from  Kerremuir  and  therfor  have  a  Curat  who  reads 
in  the  chapell  every  Sabbath  day.  Logic  Ogilvy  a  cadett  of 
the  house  of  Balfour  a  good  house,  well  grassed  with  excellent 
meadows  and  mosses  Ballinshoe  belonging  to  Robert  Fletcher 
a  pleasant  place,  good  mosses  lying  within  the  ffbrest  of 
Plattone,  where  the  Earl  of  Strathmore  has  a  very  consider- 
able interest  which  with  a  great  deall  more  lands  ther- 
about  belonged  to  the  great  and  famous  hous  of  Crawfoord. 
Gleswall  Lundie.  much  of  the  parish  hold  of  the  Marques  of 
Douglas  as  doeth  all  the  regalitie  ether  waird  or  feu,  hes  his 
regalitie  Court  in  the  toun  of  Kerremuir  where  his  deput, 
Clerk,  and  other  officers  put  in  by  himself  do  reside,  it  hath 
thrie  great  faires  and  a  weekly  mercat  of  all  kind  of  com- 
modities the  countrey  affoord  but  especially  of  timber  brought 
from  the  highlands  in  great  abundance. 

PRESBKTRIE  of  DUNDIE. 

Presbetrie  of  Dundie  is  divided  in  diverse  parishes  within 
the  Shyre  of  Forfar  the  rest  within  the  Shyre  of  Perth,  viz. 
Dundie,  Moniefieth,  Monikie,  Murrays,  Maynes,  Telling 
Ouchterhous,  Liff,  Strathmartine,  Lundie,  Benvie. 

Dundie  hath  a  great  landward  parish  besyd  the  toune  which 
is  a  large  and  great  toune  very  populous  and  of  a  great  trade 
and  have  many  good  ships,  the  buildings  are  large  and  great 
of  thrie  or  four  stories  high,  a  large  mercat  place  with  a  very 
fyne  tolbuith  &  croce,  two  great  churches  with  a  very  high 
steeple  well  furnished  of  bells,  as  is  also  the  tolbuith,  they 
have  thrie  ministers,  whereof  the  toune  presents  two,  and  the 
Constable  of  Dundie  one,  ther  Magistrates  are  a  provost,  four 
bailies  Dean  of  gild  and  others  and  are  Shirreffs  within  their 
own  bounds,  they  are  joy  tied  in  nothing  to  the  Shyre  except  in 
the  militia,  whereunto  they  furnish  150  foot,  it  lyeth  upon 
the  water  of  Tay  very  pleasantlie  and  hath  good  yeards  and 


DUNDEE  31 

meadowes  about  it.  they  have  four  great  faires  yeirly,  two 
mercat  dayes  everie  week  and  a  great  fish  mercat  dayly  there  is 
a  great  consumption  there  of  all  kind  of  victualls,  the  excyse 
of  malt  there  being  litle  short  of  the  whole  excyse  of  the 
shyre  and  burghs  besyd  a  great  victuall  mercat  twice  a  week 
for  service  of  the  toune  besydes  great  quantities  of  all  kind 
of  grain  coft  by  the  merchants  and  transported,  by  which  t 
returnes  they  import  all  kynd  of  commoditie  from  Holland, 
Norway  Denmark  &  the  East  Countrey.  they  export  lyk- 
wayes  all  other  our  native  commodities  and  import  other  things 
necessare  for  the  service  of  the  Countrey,  which  serves  above 
520  myles  round  about  ther  toune,  their  trade  is  very  great  as 
is  evident  by  the  books  of  Custome,  they  have  dependance  in 
many  things  upon  the  Constable,  who  have  been  of  the  name 
of  Scrimgeour,  heretors  of  Dudop  and  Standart  bearer  of 
Scotland  ane  ancient  loyall  and  honourable  familie  and  of  lait 
were  made  Earls  of  Dundie,  but  the  estate  falling  in  his 
Majesties  hands  as  ultimus  hceres,  the  Lord  Hal  tone  now 
Earl  of  Lauderdaile  was  constitute  the  Kings  donator  and  hes 
the  same  privilege  and  superioritie  with  the  haill  estate  of  the 
late  Constable  and  Earle  of  Dundie,  the  toune  hes  a  good 
shoar  well  built  with  hewen  stone  with  a  key,  on  both  sydes 
whereof  they  load  and  unload  ther  ships  with  a  great  house 
on  the  shore  called  the  packhouse  where  they  lay  up  ther 
merchant  goods,  ane  large  hospitall  with  diverse  easment  and 
a  good  rent,  the  landwart  parish  thereof  are  first  Dudop  ane 
extraordinare  pleasant  and  sweet  place,  a  good  house,  excellent 
yeards,  much  planting,  and  fyne  parks  it  lyes  pleasantly  on  the 
syd  of  the  hill  of  Dundie,  overlook  the  toun  and  as  of  purpose 
built  there  to  command  the  place.  Dundie  Law  is  at  the 
back  therof  ane  exceeding  high  small  hill  the  bonnet  hill  of 
Dundie  a  large  toune.  All  feuars  of  the  house  of  Dudop. 
Claypots  belonging  to  the  laird  of  Claverhous.  Blackness 
Wadderburne  a  good  house  with  a  considerable  estate  in  acres, 
about  the  toune.  Duntroone  Grahame  a  pleasant  place  with 
fyne  parks  and  meadows  about  it.  Pitkerro  belonging  to 
Durhame  a  good  house  extraordinary  well  planted  good  yeards 
and  orchards  a  very  pleasant  place  Baldovie  and  Drumgeicht 
to  Clayhills  of  Innergourie  Cragie  Kid  excellent  land  and  a 


32  MONIEFIETH— MONIKIE 

39.  good    house    with   a  litle   new    park.      Balgey    Davidsone   a 
good  house  and    good  land.      Mr   Scrimgeour,   Mr    Guthrie, 
Mr  Rait  Ministers  Mr  Ranken   Catechist  in  the  Diocese   of 
Brechine. 

Moniefieth.  Laird  of  Balumbie  brother  to  the  Earl  of 
Panmure.  hath  the  kirktoun  therof  with  salmond  fishings  on 
the  river  of  Tay  with  a  considerable  estate  in  the  parish 
besydes.  Grange.  Durhame  ane  ancient  family  and  chief  of 
his  name,  a  good  house,  yeards  and  planting  with  salmond 
fishings  on  the  river  of  Tay.  Ardounie  a  good  house  yeards 
and  much  planting  with  dovecoats  there  and  at  Grainge  both 
belonging  to  him.  Balgillo  Hunter  with  a  salmond  fishing 
upon  Tay  and  a  great  cunningaire.  Omarhie  Durham  with  a 
house  and  dovecoat  Kingdunie,  Broughtie-Castle  with  a  great 
salmond  fishing  belonging  to  the  Laird  of  Pourie  Fothring- 
hame  who  hes  lykewayes  ane  other  interest  in  the  parish.  Mr 
Dempter  Minister  in  the  diocese  of  St.  Andrews  Earle  of 
Panmure  patrone. 

Monikie,  most  part  of  all  the  Parish  with  the  Castles  of 
Dunie  and  Monikie  belong  properly  to  the  E.  of  Panmuir  and  is 
called  the  baronie  of  Dunie  wherein  is  that  sweet  and  excellent 
place  Ardestie  with  excellent  yeards  hes  meadow  and  a  park 
the  whole  Baronie  is  excellent  land  and  hath  severall  dovecoats 
therein,  there  is  lykwayes  a  fine  park  at  Monikie  belonging 
to  the  said  Earl.  Auchinlek  of  that  ilk  a  verie  ancient 
familie  which  hes  continued  in  that  name  these  many  genera- 
tions ane  old  high  tower  house  which  is  scene  at  a  great  dis- 
tance at  sea,  and  is  used  for  a  landmark  by  those  that  come 
in  the  river  of  Tay  Mr  Rait  Minister  in  the  Diocese  of 
Brechine  Earl  of  Panmure  patrone. 

Murrayes.  Balumbie  the  Earle  of  Panmures  second  brother 
his  designatione,  ane  old  ruinous  demolished  hous  but  is  a 
very  pleasant  place  the  Laird  of  Pourie  Fothringhame  a  very 

40.  honourable    and   ancient   family    of  a   great  and  flourishing 
fortune  he  hes  lykwayes  the  Murrayes  in  that  parish,    both 
are  good  houses,  sweet  and  pleasant  places,  excellent  yards, 
well  planted   parks  and   hey  meadows  and  dovecoats  extra- 
ordinare  good  and  a  litle  from  the  house  of  Pourie  toward 
the  south  a  fine  litle  wood  of  fir  and  birk  with  a  stone  dyk  and 


MONIKIE  33 

is  chief  of  his  name  Easter  Pourie.  Wadderburne  formerlie 
belonging  to  the  Lairds  of  Pourie  Ogilvy  who  were  repute 
Chief  of  that  great  and  ancient  name  of  Ogilvy  it  is  a  very 
good  hous  with  good  yeards  and  parks  about  it,  and  at  the 
foot  of  the  Castle-wall  runs  a  litle  rivulet  which  going  to 
Balumbie  and  from  thence  to  Pitkerro  falls  in  the  river  of 
Dichtie  a  very  pleasant  place  and  he  is  Chief  of  his  name 
whose  predecessors  have  been  clerks  of  Dundie  for  those  many 
generations  Westhall  with  a  dovecoat  [as  also  one  at  Easter 
Pourie]  belonging  to  Mr  Archibald  Peirsone.  Mr  Edward 
Minister  in  the  diocese  of  St.  Andrews.  Earl  of  Panmure 
patron  e. 

Maynes.  the  Maynes  of  Fintrie  belonging  to  the  Laird  of 
Fintrie  Grahame  ane  ancient  and  honourable  familie,  whos 
predecessors  was  eldest  son  of  a  second  mariage  of  the  Lord 
Grahame.  Severall  considerable  persones  cadets  of  his  house — 
it  is  a  good  hous,  excellent  yeards  with  a  great  deal  of  good 
planting  with  parks  and  dovecoats.  Claiverhouse.  Laird  of 
Claiverhouse  speciall  residence  and  litle-Kirktoun  Scrimgeor 
laitly  purchased  by  a  merchant  in  Dundie  of  that  name,  the 
Laird  of  Pourie  Fothringhame  hes  ane  interest  lykwayes  in 
that  parish,  it  is  all  extraordinare  good  land  and  lyes  upon 
the  water  of  Dichtie.  M1  Strachan  Minister  in  the  diocese  of 
St.  Andrews  Earl  Panmure  patrone. 

Telling,  the  house  of  Telling  Maxwell  is  a  good  hous 
well  planted  and  good  yeards.  E.  of  Strathmore,  Lairds  of 
Pourie  and  Claverhous  have  interest  in  the  parish,  it  is 
excellent  good  land  well  accomodat  in  grass  and  fir  and 
lyes  betwix  Dundie  and  the  hills  of  Sidlaw.  Mr  McGill 
Minister,  in  the  Diocese  of  Dunkeld  the  Kings  Majestic 
Patrone. 

Ouchterhous  belongs  for  the  most  part  to  the  Earl  of 
Strathmore,  a  fyne  house,  good  yeards  and  excellent  parks  and 
meadows  with  a  dovecoat,  it  formerly  belonged  to  the  E.  of 
Buchane.  Mr  Robertsone  Minister  within  the  Diocese  of 
Dunkeld.  E.  Strathmore  patron  Liff,  Logie,  and  Innergourie 
three  churches  joined  in  one.  the  lands  in  the  parish  are  ex- 
traordinare good  as  Newbigging  and  Innergourie  belonging  to 
Robert  Clayhills  ane  excellent  house,  good  yeards  much  plant- 

VOL.  n.  c 


•34  PRESBITRIE  OF  MEIGLE 

ing  a  great  park  and  dovecoat  Dryburgh  Yeainan  hath  a  good 
estate  there,  whereat  a  place  belonging  to  him  called  Patalpe 
where  that  great  battaill  betwixt  the  Scots  and  Picts  was 
fought  and  Alpinus  head  struck  off,  called  from  thencefurth 
Pasalpine  and  now  Patalpie.  Nether  Liff  belonging  to  the 
Lord  Gray  who  have  been  formerly  most  ancient  and  honour- 
able, being  still  the  first  Lord  of  the  kingdome  and  of  whom 
are  descended  many  considerable  persons  Mr  Cristiesone 
Minister  in  the  Diocese  of  St.  Andrews,  the  Kings  Majestic 
Patron  e. 

Strathmartine.  the  Laird  of  Strathmartine  a  good  hous 
well  accomodate  with  cornes  and  grass  and  chief  of  the  name 
of  Wyntoune.  Baldovane,  Nairne  a  very  ancient  name  in  the 
Shyre  of  Fyffe  whose  predecessors  wer  lairds  of  Sanfoord 
Nairne  on  the  Southsyd  of  the  water  of  Tay  over  against 
Dundie,  and  is  chief  of  his  name.  Mr  Fergusone  minister  in 
the  Diocese  of  St.  Andrews  Archbishop  therof  patrone. 

Lundie,  E.  Strathmore  hes  ane  interest  there,  the  greatest 
part  of  the  rest  of  the  parish  belong  to  one  Duncane  a  mer- 
chants son  in  Dundie.  it  is  a  big  old  house,  hath  a  great 
loch  abounding  in  pykes  pearches  and  eles  with  abundance  of 
fresh  water  foul.  Mr  Campbell  last  minister,  now  vacant,  in 
the  diocese  of  St.  Andrews  and  in  respect  the  kirk  is  joyned 
in  one  with  the  kirk  of  Foules,  the  patronage  is  debaitable 
betwixt  the  Lord  Gray,  Laird  of  Auchtertyre  heretor  of 
Foules  and  some  other  pretenders. 

Benvie,  the  whole  parish  belonged  formerly  to  the  Earl 
4*.  Dundie  and  now  to  the  E.  of  Lauderdaill.  by  that  same 
right  he  holds  the  rest  of  the  Earle  of  Dundies  estate,  it 
holds  of  the  E.  of  Panmtire  as  Superior  and  was  anciently  a 
pairt  of  the  barronie  of  Panmure  a  very  sweet  place  good 
ground  and  borders  with  the  Shyre  of  Perth.  Mr  Scrimgeor 
Minister,  in  the  diocese  of  St  Andrewes.  Earle  Lauderdaill 
patrone. 

PRESBITRIE  of  MEIGLE 

The  Presbetrie  of  Meigle  is  divided  in  12  parishes  in  the 
Shyre  of  Forfar,  the  rest  are  in  Perth  viz.  Keatnes,  Newtyld, 


KEATNES— NEWTYLD— EASSIE  35 

Eassie,  Nether  Glenyla,  Over  Glenyla,  Blacklounans,  Nether 
Airlie,  Lentrathene,  Kingoldrum,  Couper,  Ruthvene. 

Keatnes  wherin  is  the  hous  of  Pitcur  belonging  to  the  Laird 
of  Pitcur  Halyburtoune,  it  is  a  great  old  hous  with  much  fyne 
planting  it  is  ane  ancient,  great  and  honourable  family,  vvherof 
there  are  many  persons  of  good  quality  descended,  and  they 
have  been  alleyed  to  many  honourable  families  in  the  kingdom. 
Most  pairt  of  the  parish  belongs  properlie  to  him  and  the  rest, 
most  of  them  his  vassals  or  otherways  depend  upon  him. 
Fotherance  whos  Grandfather  the  Lord  Fotherance  a  Senator 
of  the  Colledge  of  Justice  was  a  nephew  of  the  hous  of  Pitcur 
in  the  Diocese  of  Dunkeld,  but  the  Ministers  name  and 
patron e  is  unknown  to  the  informer. 

Newtyld  the  hous  of  Newtyld  with  the  most  part  of  the 
whole  parish  belonging  formerly  in  propertie  and  the  rest 
of  the  parish  in  Superioritie  to  the  laird  of  Pitcur  and 
laitly  sold  by  him  to  Sir  George  McKenzie  of  Roshaugh  his 
Majesties  advocat  is  a  very  good  hous,  much  planting  an 
excellent  countrey  fertill  in  cornes  abounding  in  grass  for 
pastur  and  meadowes  for  hay,  not  inferior  to  any  part  of  the 
shyre.  Abundance  of  excellent  moss  and  extraordinare  good 
pasturage  for  multitudes  of  sheep  on  the  hills  of  Kilpurnie. 
Mr  Black  Minister,  in  the  diocese  of  Dunkeld  E.  of  Panmure 
patrone. 

Eassie  and  Newoy  two  small  parishes  served  with 
Minister  and  have  preaching  in  them  every  other  Sabbath  day. 
both  the  parishes  are  extraordinare  good  land  and  well  served 
of  grass  &  fir.  the  aires  of  the  lait  Lord  Couper  have  a  con- 
siderable interest  there,  the  Laird  of  Newoy  of  that  ilk  an 
ancient  gentleman  and  chief  of  his  name,  the  Lord  Newoy  lait 
Senator  of  the  Colledge  of  Justice  who  also  assumes  the  titlle 
of  Nevoy.  Earl  Strathmore  hath  ane  interest  in  that  paro- 
chine.  Mr  Jon  Lammie  of  Dunkennie.  a  pleasant  place  Kirk- 
toun  of  Essie  belonging  to  the  Laird  of  Baltkyock  in 
Perthshyre.  all  thir  parochins  lye  in  Strathmore.  Mr  Lammie 
Minister,  in  the  diocese  of  St.  Andrewes. 

Couper.  the  precinct  of  the  Abbey  built  by  Malcome  4th 
King  of  Scotland  and  some  rent  belonging  thereto  is  only  in 
the  Shyre  of  Forfar  and  pertaines  to  the  aires  of  the  lait  Lord 


36    RUTHVENE— OVER  AND  NETHER  GLENYLA 

Couper  it  hes  been  a  very  sweet  place  and  lyes  in  a  very  plea- 
sant countrey  but  now  nothing  but  rubbish.  Mr  Hay 
Minister,  in  the  diocese  of  Dunkeld  Lord  Balmirrinoch 
patron  e. 

Ruthvene  a  litle  parish  belonging  altogether  to  a  gentle- 
man of  the  name  of  Crightoune,  ane  ancient  familie  a  good 
hous  well  planted  and  lyes  pleasantly  upon  the  water  of  Dean, 
and  a  prettie  oakwood  he  hath  ane  estate  equivalent  therto 
in  Nether  Glenyla  it  and  the  former  lye  in  Strathmore.  Mr 
Fife  Minister,  in  the  diocese  of  Dunkeld.  Earl  Panmure 
patrone. 

Over  and  Nether  Glenyla  are  joyned  in  one  parish  and  have 
severall  small  heretors  therein  holding  of  the  Abbey  of  Couper 
they  are  highland  Countreys,  have  some  comes,  abundance  of 
cattle  sheep  goat  and  much  hay.  they  live  most  on  butter 
cheese  and  milk,  they  kill  much  venisone  and  wyld  foull.  the 
summer  they  goe  the  far  distant  Glens  which  border  upon 
Brae  Mar  and  ther  live  grassing  their  cattle  in  litle  houses 
which  they  build  upon  ther  coming  and  throwes  doun  when 
they  come  away  called  sheels,  their  dyet  is  only  milk  and  whey 
and  a  very  litle  meall  and  what  vennison  or  wyld  foull  they 
44.  can  apprehend.  the  Earl  Airlie  has  a  good  interest 
in  that  parish  called  Forther  with  two  great  woods  called 
Crandirth  and  Craigiefrisch,  he  hes  a  large  Glen  for  grassing 
with  abundance  of  Hay  meadows  with  a  free  forrestrie,  which 
in  those  places  they  reckone  much  worth,  the  nature  of  the 
people  and  these  of  Blacklounans  a  highland  place  in  the 
parish  of  Alithie  consisting  of  diverse  small  heretors  holding 
of  the  Laird  of  Ashintillie  Spalding  all  one  with  the  other 
highland  men  that  you  will  get  descrived  to  you  in  other 
places  except  that  the  Irish  is  not  ther  native  language  for 
none  speak  Irish  there  except  strangers  that  come  from  other 
pairts,  notwithstanding  that  in  Glenshie  and  Strath-Airlie 
ther  nixt  nighboures  the  Minister  alwayes  preaches  in  the 
afternoon  in  the  Irish  toungue.  Minister  Mr  Nevoy  in  the 
Diocese  of  Dunkeld  Earl  Airlie  patrone. 

Nether  Airlie  the  barrony  of  Bavkie  pertaining  to  the  Earl 
Strathmore  a  great  interest  and  excellent  land  and  als  good 
cornes  and  a  great  deal  more  ear  then  upon  the  coast,  the 


LENTRATHENE— KINGOLDRUM— BRECHINE     37 

hous  of  Airlie  brunt  in  the  tyme  of  the  rebellion  becaus  of 
his  loyaltie  and  never  reedified,  the  Laird  of  Balfour  Ogilvy 
hes  lykwayes  a  considerable  estate  in  it,  it  lyes  in  Strathmore. 
Minister  Mr  Lyon,  within  the  diocese  of  Dunkeld  Earl  Strath- 
more  patrone. 

Lentrathene.  most  pairt  of  the  parochine  belongs  to  the 
Earl  Airlie,  there  are  some  heretors  besyd.  Peell  Ogilvy 
Shannalie  anciently  belonging  to  the  Lairds  of  Ouchterlony 
of  that  ilk,  now  to  Patrick  Hay.  Glenquharitie  Ogilvy. 
Mr  Ogilvy  Minister,  in  the  diocese  of  Dunkeld.  Earle  Airlie 
patrone. 

Kingoldrum  the  Laird  of  Balfour  Ogilvy  hath  the  greatest 
ther.  ane  antient  gentleman,  and  a  great  estate,  it  hath  a  great 
hous  built  by  Cardinall  Beatone  and  much  planting.  Persie 
Ogilvy  Persy  Lindsay  Baldovie  Hunter  the  Earl  Airlie  hath 
ane  interest  there  Earl  of  Panmur  hath  a  considerable  feu  45. 
duetie  payed  out  of  that  parish  Kingoldrum  and  Lentrathene 
are  two  brae  parishes  but  have  abundance  of  corne,  gras  and 
fyre  and  lye  pleasantly  on  the  southsyd  of  the  hills.  Lentra- 
thene hes  lykwayes  a  great  Loch  abunding  with  such  fish  and 
foull  as  the  other  loches  of  the  Shyre  are.  Mr  Rait  Minister, 
in  the  Diocese  of  Dunkeld.  Earl  Panmure  patrone. 

PRESBITRIE  of  BRECHINE 

The  Presbitrie  of  Brechine  is  divided  in  eighten  kirks  viz. 
Oathlaw,  Fearne,  Carraldstoune,  Menmuir,  Navar,  Brechine, 
Strubathroe,  Peart  Logic,  Dun,  Montross,  Inchbraick,  Marie- 
toune,  Kinnaird,  Farnell  Edzell,  Lethnet,  and  Lochlie. 

Oathlaw,  the  whole  parish  formerly  pertained  to  the  Lord 
Spynie  but  now  to  the  Laird  of  Phinnaven  a  second  sone  of 
the  hous  of  Northesk.  it  was  a  great  old  hous  but  now  by  the 
Industrie  of  this  present  Laird  is  made  a  most  excellent  hous, 
fyne  roumes  and  good  furniture,  good  yeards  excellent  plant- 
ing and  inclosures  and  avenues,  it  lyes  as  all  the  presbetrie  of 
Brechine  doe  (except  the  brae  countrey,)  in  Strathmore  and 
the  water  of  Southesk  runs  pleasantly  by  the  foot  of  the  castle 
of  Finnavene  and  hes  some  bushies  of  wood  upon  the  water,  it 
is  ane  excellent  corne  countrey  and  well  grassed  Mr  Straitone 


38         FERNE— CARRALDSTOUNE— MENMUIH 

Minister,  in  the  diocese   of  Brechine.      Laird    of  Finnaven 
pat  rone. 

Feme,  the  parish  belongs  totallie  to  the  Earl  Southesk  and 
hath  a  very  good  hous  therin  called  the  Waine  well  planted 
good  yeards.  the  house  presently  repaired  by  him  and  well 
furnished  within,  it  hath  ane  excellent  fyne  large  great  park 
called  the  Waird  of  Fearne.  it  is  a  very  fyne  brae  Countrey 
much  corne  and  abundance  of  bestiall.  plentie  of  muirfoul  in 
the  braes  therof.  Mr  Cramond  Minister,  in  the  Diocese  of 
Dunkeld  Earl  Southesk  patrone. 

Carraldstoune  belongs  totallie  to  the  Laird  of  Balnamoone 
Carnegy  whose  grandfather  was  a  sone  of  the  hous  of  South- 
esk a  great  and  most  delicat  hous  well  built,  brave  lights 
and  of  a  most  excellent  contrivance  without  debait  the  best 
gentlemans  hous  in  the  shyre  extraordinare  much  planting, 
delicat  yeards  and  gardines  with  stone  walls,  ane  excellent 
avenue  with  ane  rainge  of  great  ashtrees  on  everie  syd,  ane 
excellent  arbour  for  lenth  and  breadth  none  in  the  countrey 
lyke  it.  the  house  built  by  Sir  Hary  Lindsay  of  Kinfaines  after 
E.  of  Crawfoord  which  great  and  ancient  familie  is  now 
altogether  extinct  it  was  formerly  within  the  parochine  of 
Brechine  and  being  at  so  great  a  distance  from  the  toune  of 
Brechine  Sir  Alexr  Carnegy  grandfather  to  this  Balnamoone 
built  a  very  fyne  litle  church  and  a  fyne  Ministers  Mans  upon 
his  oun  expenses  and  doted  a  stipend  and  gave  a  gleib  therto 
out  of  his  own  estate,  it  lyes  on  the  northsyd  of-  the  water  of 
Southesk.  Mr  Murray  Minister,  in  the  diocese  of  Brechine. 
Laird  of  Balnamoon  patrone 

Menmuir  the  half  of  the  parish  belongs  to  the  Laird  of 
Balnamoone,  with  the  hous  well  planted  good  yeards  ane 
excellent  corne  countrey  well  accomodat  of  grass  hay  and  fir 
Baljordie  ane  ancient  familie  and  Chief  of  the  name  of  Symmer. 
Balhall,  Lyell,  Barroun,  Livingstoune,  a  pleasant  sweet  stance, 
good  yeards  and  well  planted.  Mr  Campbel,  Minister,  in  the 
diocese  of  Dunkeld.  Balhall  patrone. 

Navar,  most  pairt  therof  being  a  litle  highland  parish 
belongs  to  the  E.  of  Panmure  and  Balnamoone,  its  a  part  of 
the  E.  of  Panmures  title  of  honour.  Balnamoon  hes  a  hous 
in  it  called  Tilliebirnie  well  accomodat  in  grass,  park  and 


EDZELL— LETHNET— LOCHLIE  39 

nieadowes.    Mr  Sympsone  Minister,  in  the  Diocese  of  Brechine 
the  Kings  Majestie  patrone. 

Edzell,  Lethnet  and  Lochlie  being  thrie  parishes,  have  < 
only  two  Ministers,  one  in  Edzell  and  one  for  Lethnet  and 
Lochlie  and  have  a  Curate  who  hath  a  benefice  and  reads  at  the 
Chappie  of  Lochlie,  belong  all  properly  to  David  Lindsay 
Laird  of  Edzell,  ane  ancient  and  honourable  familie  and  only 
representative  of  the  famous  and  ancient  familie  and  hous  of 
Crawfoord  Lindsay.  It  is  ane  excellent  dwelling,  a  great  hous, 
delicat  gardine  with  walls  sumptously  built  of  hewen  stone 
polisht,  with  pictures  and  coats  of  armes  in  the  walls,  with  a 
fyne  summer  hous  with  a  hous  for  a  bath  on  the  south  corners 
therof  far  exceeding  any  new  work  of  thir  times,  excellent 
Kitchine  gardine  and  orcheard  with  diverse  kynds  of  most  ex- 
cellent fruits  and  most  delicat.  new  park  with  felow  deer  built 
by  the  present  Laird,  it  lyes  close  to  the  hills  betwixt  the 
water  called  the  West  Water  and  the  water  of  Northesk  which 
joyning  together  make  as  it  were  a  demi  Island  thereof,  it  hath 
ane  excellent  outter  court  so  large  and  level!  that  of  old 
when  they  used  that  sport,  they  used  to  play  at  the  football 
there  and  there  are  still  four  great  growing  trees  which  were  the 
dobts.  It  is  ane  extraordinare  warme  and  ear  place  so  that 
the  fruits  will  be  readie  there  a  fourthnight  sooner  than  in  any 
place  of  the  shy  re  and  hath  a  greater  increase  of  bean  and 
other  graine  than  can  be  expected  elswhere.  West  from 
Edzell  lyes  Lethnet  &  Northwest  from  Lethnet  lyes  Lochlie 
both  highland  countries  but  pay  a  great  rent  in  moe,  besydes 
casualiteis,  of  cowes,  waderis,  lambs  butter,  cheese  wool  &c. 
there  is  abundance  of  vennison  muir  and  heath  foules  in  the 
forrest  therof  great  plenty  of  wood,  in  Lochlie  is  the  great  and 
strong  castle  of  Innermark  upon  the  water  of  Northesk.  it  is 
very  well  peopled  and  upon  any  incursions,  the  Highland 
Katranes  (for  so  those  highland  robbers  are  called)  the 
Laird  can  upon  very  short  advertisment,  raise  a  good  number 
of  weell  armed  prattie  men,  who  seldom  suffer  any  prey  to  goe 
out  of  ther  bounds  unrecovered.  Mr  Irvyne  Minister  of  Edzell, 
Mr  Norie  Minister  of  Lethnet  and  Lochlie,  in  the  diocese  of 
Brechine.  Laird  of  Edzell  patrone  to  all. 

Brechine  is  a  royall  burgh,  the  Bishopp  is  Provost  therof, 


40  BRECHINE— STRICKATHROE 

hath  the  electione  of  a  Bailie,  E.  Panmure  hath  the  electione 
of  the  eldist  Bailzie  and  the  toune  one,  it  lyes  very  pleasantly 
upon  the  north  syd  of  the  water  of  Southesk,  which  runneth 
by  the  walls  therof.  The  yeards  therof  to  the  south  end  of  the 
tenements  therof,  where  there  is  a  large  welbuilt  stone  bridge 
of  two  arches,  and  wher  E.  Panmure  hath  a  considerable 
salmond  fishing  and  lykways  croves  under  the  castle  walls, 
which  lyes  pleasantly  on  the  water,  and  is  a  delicat  house 
fyne  yeards  and  planting,  which  with  a  great  estate  therabout 
belonged  formerly  to  the  E.  Marr  and  now  to  the  E.  Panmure 
and  is  called  the  Castle  of  Brechine,  the  toune  is  tollerablie 
well  built  and  hath  a  considerable  trade  by  reason  of  ther 
vicinitie  to  Montross,  being  four  myles  distant  from  it  but 
that  which  most  enriches  the  place  is  ther  frequent  faires  and 
mercats,  which  occasions  a  great  concourse  of  people  from  all 
places  of  the  Countrey  having  a  great  fair  of  cattle,  horse,  and 
sheep,  the  wholl  week  after  Whytsunday  and  the  Tuesday 
therafter  a  great  mercat  in  the  toune.  they  have  a  weekly 
mercat  every  Tuesday  throughout  the  year,  where  ther  is  a 
great  resort  of  highland  men  with  timber,  peats  and  heather 
and  abundance  of  muirfoull  and  extraordinarie  good  wool  in 
its  seasone.  Item  a  great  weekly  mercat  of  cattle  from  the  first 
of  October  to  the  first  of  Januare  called  the  Crofts  mercat. 
Item  a  great  horse  mercat  weekly  throughout  all  Lent.  Item 
a  great  horsefair  called  Palmsundays  fair.  It  is  a  very 
pleasant  place  and  extraordinare  good  land  about  it.  E. 
of  Southesk  hes  a  great  interest  lykwayes  in  the  parish. 
Ballnabriech  belonging  to  the  Laird  of  Balnamoone  a  good 
hous  and  a  considerable  thing  Cookstoune  to  John  Carnegy 
lyeth  very  pleasantly  at  the  Northport  of  Brechine  and  is  a 
good  land,  the  laird  of  Findourie  hath  a  considerable  interest 
ther  most  of  it  in  acres  about  the  toun,  a  good  hous  and  well 
planted  Arrot  belonging  to  the  Viscount  of  Arbuthnet  is  a 
fine  litle  hous  lying  upon  the  northsyd  of  Southesk  with  a 
fishing.  Auldbar  hath  lykwayes  an  interest  there.  Pit  fort  hie, 
Rait,  Keathock  Edgar  with  a  good  new  hous  built  by  this 
present  Laird.  Mr  Skinner  Minister. 

Strickathroe  a  great   pairt    of  the  parish  belongs   to  Sir 
David  Falconer  Lord  President  of  the  Colledge  of  Justice,  and 


PEART— LOGIE— DUN— MONTROSE  41 

lyes  on  the  south  syd  of  Northesk  and  is  called  the  barronie  of 
Dunlappie.  Stricka throe,  Turnbull  hath  a  good  estate  in  it, 
as  also  the  E.  Southesk  Mr  Couttis  Minister,  in  the  diocese 
of  Brechine.  E.  of  Southesk  and  Lord  President  patrons  and 
present  per  vices. 

Peart  is'ane  excellent  sweet  place,  lyeth  on  the  southsyd  of 
Northesk,  excellent  good  land  and  belongeth  equallie  to  Sir 
Jo"  Falconer  of  Galraw  and  James  Scott  of  Logie,  where 
there  is  a  large  stone  bridge  of  two  great  arches  over  the 
water  of  Northesk  built  by  one  of  the  Lairds  of  Dun,  but  not 
being  altogether  finished,  there  was  railles  put  upon  the  same 
of  very  good  hewen  stone  amounting  to  a  great  expense  by 
this  present  Laird  of  Dun.  Mr  Guild  Minister,  in  the  diocese 
of  Brechine,  heretors  patrone,  the  Ministers  there  are 
Chanters  of  Brechine. 

Logie,  the  chief  heretor  is  the  Laird  of  Logie  Scot,  a  gentle- 
man of  a  good  estate  therabout.  Gulraw  belonging  to  Sir 
Jon  Falconer,  ane  excellent  new  built  hous  with  much  old 
planting  and  fyne  yeards  and  salmond  fishing.  Craigs  to  Mr 
James  Carnegy  all  lying  very  pleasantly  upon  the  southsyd  of  50. 
Northesk.  Mr  Symsone  Minister  in  the  diocese  of  Brechine. 

Dun  the  whole  parish  did  formerly  belong  to  the  Lairds  of 
Dun,  as  did  the  parish  of  Logie  and  barrony  of  Arrot.  it  is 
ane  ancient  and  honourable  family,  it  is  a  great  hous,  well 
planted,  good  yeards  and  orchards  the  situatione  is  pleasant 
and  extraordinare  good  land,  hath  a  large  outter  court  and  the 
Church  on  the  southeast  syd  therof,  and  the  Ministers  manse 
hard  by  it  lyes  on  the  Northsyd  of  Southesk  where  he  hath  a 
good  salmond  fishing.  Mr  Lichtoune  Minister,  in  the  diocese 
of  Brichen  the  Laird  patrone. 

Montrose  is  a  royall  burgh,  have  a  provost,  four  bailzies  and 
Dean  of  the  Gild  and  others,  its  a  very  handsome,  well  built 
toune,  of  considerable  trade  in  all  places  abroad,  good  houses 
all  of  stone,  excellent  large  streets  a  good  tolbuith  and  church, 
good  shipping  of  ther  own  a  good  shore  at  the  toune,  a  myle 
within  the  river  of  Southesk.  but  the  entrie  is  very  dangerous 
for  strangers  that  know  it  not  by  reason  of  a  great  bank  of 
sand  that  lyeth  before  the  mouth  of  the  entrie  called  Long 
Ennell,  but  that  defect  is  supplied  by  getting  pilots  from  the 


42  MONTROSE 

nighbouring  fisher  touns  of  UHshavene  or  Ferredene,  who 
know  it  so  well  that  they  cannot  mistake,  its  a  very  cheap 
place  of  all  things  necessare  except  hous  rent  which  is  dear  by 
reason  of  the  great  distance  they  are  from  stones  and  makes 
ther  building  very  dear,  yet  notwithstanding  they  are  con- 
stantly building  both  in  the  toune  and  suburbs  which  is  at  a 
considerable  distance  from  the  toune  in  the  links  and  is  ther 
malthouses  and  kills  and  granaries  for  comes,  of  thrie  storie 
high  and  some  more  and  are  increased  to  such  a  number  that 
in  a  short  tyme  its  thought  they  will  equall  if  not  exceed  the 
toune  in  greatness,  they  are  wel  appointed  of  flesches  and 
fishes  which  are  extraordinare  cheap  in  that  place  and  have 
them  in  great  abundance  of  all  sorts,  they  have  good  publick 
revenue  two  wind  milnes  ane  hospitall  with  some  mortifica- 
tiones  belonging  to  it,  they  are  mightie  fyne  burgesses  and 
delicat  painfull  merchants,  there  lies  beene  men  of  great  sub- 
stance in  that  towne  of  a  long  time  and  yet  are,  who  have  and 
are  purchasing  good  estates  in  the  Countrey.  the  generalitie 
of  the  burgesses  and  merchants  do  very  far  exceed  these  in  any 
other  toune  in  the  shyre.  they  have  a  good  landward  parish 
and  severall  heretors  therein  viz.  Logic  Scot  before  mentioned 
who  hath  very  good  houses  and  yeards  in  the  toune  Kinnaber 
Fullertoune  a  pleasant  place  lying  on  the  southsyde  of  North- 
esk  with  salmond  fishings.  Borrowfeild  Taylzeor  Heatherweck 
a  new  built  fyne  hous  belonging  to  David  Scott  Mr  Lyell 
and  Mr  Mill  Ministers,  in  the  diocese  of  Brechine  the  toun 
patrons. 

Inchbraick  formerly  belonging  to  Sir  John  Carnegy  a  second 
son  of  the  hous  of  Southesk,  now  to  Patrick  Scott  son  to 
James  Scott  of  Logic  sometime  provost  of  Montross.  it  is  a 
great  estate,  excellent  good  land  lying  upon  the  southsyd  of 
the  water  of  Southesk  untill  ye  come  to  the  mouth  of  the 
water  and  then  turneth  West  the  coast  untill  ye  pass  Ulis- 
havene  a  fishertoune  of  his.  he  hath  another  called  Ferredene 
and  hath  salmond  fishings  ther  the  river  makes  ane  Island 
betwixt  Montross  and  Ferredene  where  the  kirk  in  old  stood 
and  the  whole  parish  is  designed  from  the  Island  and  is  still 
the  buriall  place  of  the  parish,  they  alwayes  wait  the  low 
water  and  carries  over  ther  dead  then  being  almost  dry  on  the 


MARIETOUNE— KINNAIRD— FARNELL         43 

southsyd,  when  it  is  low  water.  He  hath  thrie  houses  there 
viz.  Craig,  Rossie,  two  excellent  houses  welbuilt  with  excellent 
good  yeards  orcheards  and  planting.  Craig  hath  ane  excellent 
fountaine  with  a  large  bason  of  hewen  stone  whereunto  water 
is  conveyed  by  pypes  of  lead  from  a  spring  at  a  good  distance. 
Baldovie  a  gentlemans  hous  of  the  name  of  Dundas  farther 
up  the  southsyd  of  Southesk  with  a  salmond  fishing  Duny- 
nald  belonging  to  Thomas  Allerdice  a  second  son  of  the  house  52. 
of  Allerdyce  of  that  ilk  in  Mernes,  a  good  estat  and  a  fyne 
new  built  hous,  witli  good  yeards  wher  there  is  great  plentie 
of  excellent  lyme  stone,  it  lyes  upon  the  coast,  which  all 
alongst  from  Montross  is  a  rockie  iron  coast  and  there  is  a 
large  spacious  bay,  which  makes  a  sure  and  saif  road  for  any 
ships  in  a  storm  called  Lou  nan  houp.  Mr  Mathie  Minister, 
in  the  diocese  of  Brechine. 

Marietoune  that  parish  lyes  upon  the  southsyd  of  Southesk 
from  Baldovie  up  to  Kinnaird.  there  are  therein  Old  Montros 
formerly  belonging  to  the  Marques  of  Montross  and  is  their 
title,  now  to  the  E.  Middletoune  one  of  his  Majesties  Secre- 
taries of  State  a  pleasant  place  good  hous  excellent  yeards  and 
planting  delicat  land  with  a  salmond  fishing  on  the  water. 
Bonnietoun  belonging  to  Sir  Jon  Wood  ane  ancient  gentleman 
and  good  estate  well  planted,  good  yeard  orcheard  and  dou- 
coat.  and  excellent  good  land.  DysartLyell,  a  good  hous  lyes 
on  the  coast  be  west  Dunynald  with  a  doucoat.  Mr  Lindsay 
Minister,  in  the  diocese  of  Brechine.  Bishop  therof  patrone. 

Kinnaird  and  Farnell,  both  those  parishes  belong  entirelie 
to  the  E.  Southesk.  Without  competition  the  fynest  place, 
(taking  altogether)  in  the  shyre,  a  great  hous,  excellent  gar- 
dines,  parks  with  felow-deer  orcheards,  hay  meadowes  wherein 
are  extraordinare  quantities  of  hay.  very  much  planting,  ane 
excellent  breed  of  horse,  catle  and  sheep,  extraordinare  good 
land.  Farnell  is  lykwayes  ane  extraordinare  sweet  place, 
delicat  yeards  and  very  much  planting.  My  Lord  is  patrone 
of  both,  and  are  in  the  diocese  of  Brechine,  the  familie  is  very 
ancient  and  honourable  thir  six  generations  in  Queene  Marie 
Regent,  Queen  Marie,  King  James  the  Sixth  King  Charles  the 
first  and  his  Majestic  now  raigning,  they  have  been  Officers  of 
State  and  privie  Counselors  and  have  all  of  them  been  very  S3. 


44         ARBROATH— KINNELL— INNERKILLOR 

famous  for  ther  loyal  tie  and  of  lait  have  suffered  much  upon 
that  accompt  and  have  been  honoured  by  having  this  present 
kings  Majestic  his  father  and  grandfather  of  blissed  memorie 
at  ther  house  of  Kinnaird.  upon  the  Westsyde  of  both 
parishes  lyes  that  great  and  spacious  forrest  called  Mont 
roy  mont  belonging  to  his  Lordship  and  abounding  in  wyld 
foul  and  haires. 


PRESBITRIE  of  ARBROTH 

The  Presbitrie  of  Arbroth  is  divided  in  eleven  parishes  viz. 
Kinnell,  Innerkillor,  Lounane,  St.  Vigeans,  Arbroth,  Arbirlot, 
Carmyllie,  Idvie,  Guthrie,  Panbryd,  Barrie. 

Kinnell.  most  pairt  of  the  parish  belongs  to  Earl  Southesk 
being  adjacent  to  Farnell  and  Kinnaird  with  the  house  of  Bal- 
sliione  well  planted  with  excellent  fyne  yeards  Easter  Braickie 
belonging  to  Sir  Franciss  Ogilvy  of  New  Grange  a  great  grand- 
child of  the  house  of  Airlie.  Wester  Braickie  a  gentleman  of 
a  nigh  relation  of  the  hous  of  Gray  both  good  houses  and  well 
planted.  Mr  Thompsone  Minister  in  the  diocese  of  St. 
Andrewes.  Archbishop  patrone. 

Innerkillor,  most  part  of  the  parish  belongs  to  E.  Northesk 
as  the  barronies  of  Ethie  and  Reidcastle  with  others.  Ethie 
is  the  principall  dwelling,  a  very  good  hous  laitly  reedified  by 
Jon  E.  Ethie  Grandfather  to  this  present  E.  and  who  was  a 
son  of  the  hous  of  Southesk  a  noble,  worthie  and  loyall 
persone  who  suffered  much  for  his  loyaltie,  as  was  also  his  son 
the  Earl  Northesk  father  to  the  present  E.  they  have  fyne 
yeards  orcheards  and  park,  it  lyes  pleasantly  on  the  coast  be 
west  Lounanhoup  formerly  spoken  to  and  is  very  good  land 
and  hath  a  fisher  toune  belonging  therto  called  Auchmuthie 
54.  belonging  therto  whereby  they  are  abundantly  served  of  all 
kinds  of  fishes  all  seasons  of  the  yeir.  in  the  rocks  of  Ethie 
there  engendreth  ane  excellent  falcone  yearly.  Abundance 
of  sea  foul  and  Kittie  Waicks  formerly  spoken  of.  ReidCastle 
ane  old  hous  upon  the  seasyd  under  the  walls  wherof  runs  the 
river  of  Lounane.  King  William  when  he  built  the  Abbey  of 
Arbroth,  dwelt  there.  Laird  of  Boysack  a  grandchild  of  the 
house  of  Northesk,  hath  a  good  estate  there  and  a  good  hous 


ST.  VIGEANS— ABERBROTHOCK  45 

called  Boysack  on  the  water  of  Lounan,  the  Laird  of  Bonnie- 
toune  hath  a  considerable  interest  in  the  parish.  Breyingtoun 
belonging  to  Mr  Jon  Rait  Minister  a  gentleman  of  the  hous  of 
Halgreen  in  the  Mernes.  Lawtoune  to  Gairdyne  of  that  ilk  a 
very  ancient  familie  and  chief  of  his  name.  Mr  Rait  Minister 
in  the  Diocese  of  St.  Andrews.  Earl  Panmure  patrone. 

St.  Vigeans  lyeth  about  a  myll  above  Arbroth  on  the  water 
therof  ane  old  great  kirk  built  upon  ane  high  artificial  mount, 
as  is  famed  by  one  Vigeanus  a  religious  man  and  was  Canonized 
and  the  church  beares  his  name,  places  in  the  parish  are 
Innerpeffer  with  a  considerable  interest  belonging  to  the  E. 
Panmure.  a  pleasant  sweet  place  lying  upon  the  coast  thrie 
myles  be  west  Arbroth,  fyne  yeards  orchard  and  planting  and 
although  it  be  in  St.  Vigeans,  yet  the  whole  parish  of  Abirlot 
is  interjected  betwixt  them.  Northtarrie  belonging  to  E. 
Northesk  welplanted  with  yeards  and  orchards,  lyeth  on  the 
eastsyd  of  the  water  of  Brothock.  Lethem  on  the  westsyd  of 
the  said  water,  a  pleasant  place  with  good  yeards  orcheard 
well  planted  with  a  hay  meadow  belonging  to  Sir  Jon  Wood 
of  Bonnietoun.  New  Grange  lyeing  on  the  eastsyd  of  the  said 
water  good  yeards  well  planted  and  pleasant  meadowes.  Col- 
lestoune  presently  purchased  by  Doctor  Gordone,  good  hous,  55. 
planting  and  meadowes.  Parkconnone  Ramsay,  Cairnetoune 
Ramsay,  Muirhous  belonging  to  the  Laird  of  Guynd.  Easter 
Seatoune,  Crawfoord.  Wester  Seatoune  Guthrie  both  lyeing 
together  on  the  coast  good  houses,  yeards  and  planting  with  a 
litlepark  at  the  Easter  Seatoun  the  rocks  whereof  abound  with 
sea  calves,  sea  foull  and  wyld  pigeons.  South  Tarrie  Leslie  a 
fyne  litle  hous  and  yeards  excellent  ground  lyeing  at  the  east 
syd  of  the  toune  of  Arbroth.  Hospitalfeild  and  Kirktoune  a 
pleasant  place  and  good  land  belonging  to  a  gentleman  of  the 
name  of  Fraser  of  the  family  of  Filorth,  where  they  gather 
abundance  of  that  alga  marina  wherwith  they  dung  their  land 
to  their  great  advantage.  Mr  Strachane  Minister,  in  the 
diocese  of  St.  Andrews  Earl  Panmure  patrone. 

Aberbrothock  is  a  burgh  royall,  hath  a  provost,  two  Bailzies, 
whereof  E.  Panmure  hath  the  electione  of  the  first,  it  is  a 
pleasant  and  sweet  place  and  excellent  good  land  about  it. 
built  upon  the  east  syd  of  the  water  of  Brothock.  they  have 


46  ABERBROTHOCK 

a  shore  some  shipping  and  a  litle  small  trade,  it  hath  one 
long  large  street  and  some  bystreets,  its  tolerablie  well  built 
and  hath  some  very  good  houses  in  it,  but  the  beautie  and 
decorement  of  the  place  in  tymes  past,  was  that  excellent 
fabrick  and  building  of  the  Abbey  therof  built  by  King 
William  King  of  Scots  and  endued  by  him  and  others  with 
great  rents  and  revenues  and  lyes  buried  there  in  a  peice  of 
very  stately  work  built  by  himself  for  that  purpose  and  is  a 
very  stately  peice  of  work  of  thrie  storie  high,  the  wholl 
fabrick  of  the  buriall  place  is  still  entier  as  at  first  and  if  it  be 
not  thrown  downe  may  continue  so  for  many  generations, 
the  laigh  storie  is  the  buriall  place  and  the  second  and  third 
stories  were  imployed  for  keeping  the  Chartours  of  the  Monas- 
66.  trie,  there  is  one  lodging  remaining  yet  entier.  it  had  a 
most  stately  Church  with  two  great  steeples  on  the  west  end 
therof.  Most  part  of  the  church  is  ruined,  but  was  the 
largest  both  for  breadth  and  lenth,  it  is  thought  in  Scotland 
there  is  much  of  the  walls  therof  as  yet  standing  in  many 
places  the  tower  thrie  storie  high  is  standing  yet  entier,  and 
the  roof  on  it  ther  was  ane  excellent  roume  called  the  fish  hall, 
standing  with  ane  excellent  oak  roof,  but  that  with  much  more 
of  the  building  by  the  avarice  of  the  touns  people  about  there  all 
broken  down  and  taken  away,  there  was  besyd  the  Cathedrall 
Church  four  chappies  viz.  St.  Thomas  Chappie,  the  Abbey 
being  dedicat  to  St.  Thomas  Becket  Archbishop  of  Canter- 
berrie.  it  was  richly  furnished  and  as  a  gentleman  told  me, 
he  saw  the  verie  things  in  a  chappie  at  Parish  and  was  told 
they  were  removed  thither  by  the  monks  of  Arbroth  the  tyme 
of  reformation,  extraordinare  rich  but  of  ane  antique  fashione. 
Lady  Chappie,  St.  Ninians  Chappie  the  Almeshouse  Chappie 
is  now  possest  be  James  Philp  of  Almryclose,  his  hous  built  of 
the  stones  therof,  and  hes  all  the  apartments  belonging 
therto,  the  fabrick  was  great  and  excellent,  having  many  fyne 
gardines  and  orcheards  now  converted  to  arable  ground  about 
which  is  a  high  stone  wall  and  now  by  the  Kings  gift  belongs 
to  the  Bishop  of  Brechine.  hardby  the  toune  upon  the  eastsyd 
is  Newgait  belonging  to  a  Gentleman  of  the  name  of  Carnegy 
of  the  family  of  Southesque,  a  very  good  hous  and  pleasant 
place.  Almryclose  is  in  the  head  of  the  toune  and  good  hous 


ARBIRLOT— CARMYLLIE— IDVIE— GUTHRIE    47 

and  yeards  Sunddie  croft  a  litle  interest  belonging  to  a  gentle- 
man of  the  name  of  Peirsone  is  ancient  and  without  debait  57. 
chief  of  his  name.     Mr  Carnegy  Minister,  in  the  diocese  of  St. 
Andrews,  the  Kings  Majestic  patrone. 

Arbirlot.  most  pairt  of  the  parish  with  the  hous  of  Kellie 
which  formerly  belonged  to  the  Lairds  of  Ouchterlony  of  that 
ilk,  belongs  now  to  Henry  Maull  thrid  brother  to  the  present 
E.  Panmure,  is  a  good  and  very  great  house  well  planted  and 
stands  very  pleasantly  on  the  water  of  Eliot,  the  rest  of  the 
parochine  belongs  to  the  E.  Panmure  is  excellent  good  ground 
and  lyes  alongst  the  coast  two  or  thrie  myles.  Mr  McGill 
Minister,  in  the  diocese  of  St.  Andrews,  the  Earl  of  Panmure 
patrone. 

Carmyllie  the  most  part  of  the  parish  belongs  to  the  Earl 
of  Panmure  with  the  house  of  Carmyllie.  Carnegy  belonging 
to  the  E.  Southesk  and  is  the  tittle  of  the  eldest  sone  of 
the  familie,  is  a  good  hous  well  grassed,  a  good  moss  with 
ane  excellent  large  park.  Guynd  a  good  hous  with  yeards 
and  planting,  lying  upon  the  water  of  Eliot,  belongs  to 
Jon  Ouchterlony,  lineal  successor  chief  and  representative  of 
the  ancient  familie  of  Ouchterlony  of  that  ilk.  Cononsyth  to 
a  gentleman  of  the  name  of  Rait  of  the  familie  of  Halgreen  in 
the  Mernes.  Mr  Ouchterlony  last  Minister,  now  vacant  within 
the  diocese  of  Brechine  Earl  Panmure  patrone. 

Id  vie  the  Laird  of  Gardyne  of  that  ilk  formerly  spoken  of, 
hath  the  most  part  of  the  barronie  of  Gairdyne  except  the 
hous  and  Maynes  which  belong  to  a  gentleman  of  the  name 
of  Ruthvene  Barronie  of  Idvie  to  Sir  Jon  Wood  of  Bonnie- 
toune.  Pitmowes  belonging  to  Jon  Ogilvy  a  grandchyld  of 
a  second  sone  of  the  hous  of  Airlie,  a  good  hous  well  planted 
and  lyes  pleasantly  on  the  water  of  Evenie.  Mr  Balwaird 
Minister,  in  the  Diocese  of  St.  Andrewes.  Archbishop  patrone.  58. 

Gu thrie  the  most  pairt  of  the  parish  belongs  to  the  Laird 
of  Guthrie  of  that  ilk,  a  very  ancient  gentleman  and  chief  of 
his  name,  his  hous  is  well  planted,  good  yeards  and  orchards 
good  land  well  grassed  and  lyes  pleasantly  on  the  head  of  the 
water  of  Lounane  in  Strathbegg.  Pitmowes  and  Commisher 
Wisheart  have  some  interest  there.  Carbuddo  a  gentleman 
of  the  name  of  Erskine  a  Cadent  of  the  hous  of  Dun  lyes  at 


48  PANBRYD 

a  great  distance  from  the  kirk  and  had  a  chappie  of  ther 
own,  wherein  the  Minister  of  Guthrie  preached  every  thrid 
or  fourth  Sabbath  day  but  is  now  ruinous,  it  is  abundantly 
served  of  peat  and  turf  not  only  for  ther  oun  use  but  for 
the  service  of  the  wholl  countrey  about,  is  a  muirish  cold 
countrey  and  at  a  great  distance  from  all  gentlemans  houses 
and  kirks  about  it.  Mr  Strachane  Minister  in  the  diocese  of 
Brechine.  Guthrie  patrone. 

Panbryd  alias  St.  Brigid,  the  wholl  parish  except  the 
barronie  of  Panbryd  which  belongs  to  the  E.  Southesk,  apper- 
taines  to  E.  Panmure,  wherein  stands  the  hous  of  Panmure 
new  built  and  as  is  thought  by  many,  except  Halyruidhousr 
the  best  hous  in  the  Kingdome  of  Scotland,  with  delicat 
gairdins  with  high  stone  walls,  extraordinare  much  planting 
young  and  old,  many  great  parks  about  the  new  and  old  house 
with  a  great  deall  of  planting  about  the  old  house,  brave  hay 
meadows  well  ditched  and  hedged  and  in  a  word,  is  a  most 
excellent  sweet  and  delicat  place,  the  family  is  very  ancient  and 
honourable  and  hes  been  alwayes  very  great  and  were  reckoned 
befor  they  were  nobilitat,  the  first  barone  of  the  shy  re,  they 
have  allwayes  been  very  famous  for  ther  loyaltie  and  good 
59.  service  to  ther  princes.  Patrick  E.  Panmure  grandfather  to 
the  present  Earl  having  served  King  James  the  Sixth  and 
king  Charles  the  first  of  blissed  memorie,  loyallie,  faithfullie 
and  truelie  in  the  qualitie  of  Bedchamber  man,  was  advanced 
by  King  Charles  the  first  to  the  dignitie  of  ane  Earle  and  did 
continue  in  his  service  and  dutie  to  his  sacred  Majestic  in 
all  his  solitudes  and  troubles  through  all  the  pairts  of  the 
Kingdome  in  the  tyme  of  the  rebellion  and  afterward  in  all 
places  of  his  confynment  and  at  the  Isle  of  Weight  till  the 
bloodie  traitors  who  afterwards  imbrued  ther  hands  in  his 
sacred  blood  thrust  him  from  his  attendance,  but  was  the 
last  Scots  man  that  attended  his  Majestic.  It  is  lykwayes 
known  how  the  late  Earl  his  sone  being  a  Colonel  of  horse 
behaved  himself  when  this  present  King  his  Majestic,  was  in 
Scotland  both  at  Dunbar  Innerkething,  and  other  places,  and 
whose  estate  was  robbed  and  spoylt  by  the  usurpers  forces, 
here,  and  fyned  in  a  vast  soume  of  money  whereby  he  was 
forced  to  redeem  his  estate  from  forfaultre.  the  place  is  also 


BARRIE  49 

famous  for  that  great  battle  fought  there  betwixt  the  Scots 
and  Danes,  wherin  the  Scots  obtained  a  great  victorie  and  is 
called  the  battle  of  Panmure  ther  was  one  of  the  Lairds  of 
Pan  mure  killed  at  the  famous  battle  of  Harlaw  and  most  of 
all  his  name  in  his  princes  service  against  rebells  and  usurpers. 
Balmachie  belonging  to  a  gentleman  of  the  name  of  Carnegy 
of  the  familie  of  Southesk.  Mr  Maull  Minister  in  the  diocese 
of  Brechine  Earl  Panmure  patrone  and  hes  newly  reedified 
his  buriall  place  with  a  chamber  above  with  a  loft  in  the 
kirk  most  sumptous  and  delicat.  he  hath  at  Panmure  a  most 
excellent  breed  of  horse  and  cattle. 

Barrie.  it  belongs  to  severall  heretors.  E.  Panmure  hath  60. 
an  Interest  therein  and  the  wholl  parish  pay  him  few,  hath  a 
Bailiery  and  keeps  courts  there.  Woodhill,  Kid,  a  pleasant 
place,  Grange  of  Barrie,  Watsone,  Ravensbay  pertaining  to 
the  Laird  of  Gairdyne  of  that  ilk  Pitskellie  Alexander,  Car- 
nustie  to  Mr  Patrick  Lyon  advocat,  the  rest  are  but  small 
heretors.  It  is  an  excellent  countrey,  good  cornes  and  well 
grassed  it  is  famous  for  that  great  battle  fought  betwixt 
the  Scots  and  Danes  in  the  links  of  Barrie  wherein  the  Scots 
obtained  the  victorie  with  great  slauchter  of  both  Scots  and 
Danes  which  is  to  be  seen  at  this  day  by  ther  great  heapes 
of  stones  castin  together  in  great  heapes  in  diverse  places  of 
that  links,  which  is  said  to  be  the  burial  of  the  dead  ther 
slain,  those  of  the  Danes  who  escaped  the  slauchter  of  that 
battle  fled  with  ther  General  Camus  and  were  overtaken  by 
the  Scots  four  myles  from  that  place  and  defeat,  ther  Generall 
Camus  being  slaine  upon  the  place  with  many  others.  Camus 
with  all  the  dead  were  buried  there  and  a  great  highstone  croce 
erected  upon  him  which  is  still  extant  and  gives  name  to  the 
place  being  called  Camustone  and  the  pillar  the  Croce  of 
Camustoune  it  belongeth  to  the  E.  of  Panmure.  Within 
tlies  two  or  thrie  yeires  the  Croce  by  violence  of  wind  and 
weather  did  fall,  which  the  Earl  caused  reerect  and  fortifie 
against  such  hazard  in  tyme  to  corne.  the  remainder  of  the 
Danes  that  escaped  that  battle  fled  northward  wher  they  were 
overtaken  by  the  Scots  at  a  place  in  this  Shyre  called  Aber- 
lemno  ten  myles  distant  from  Camustoune  and  ther  beat  and 
all  of  them  either  killed  or  taken  and  there  its  probable  some 

VOL.   II.  D 


50  FAMILY  OF  OUCHTERLONY 

great  man  was  killed  ther  being  ane  other  croce  erected  there 
61.  and  called  the  Crocestoun  of  Aberlemno.  they  have  both  of 
them  some  antique  pictures  and  letters  so  worne  out  with 
tyme,  that  they  are  not  legible  or  rather  the  characters  are 
not  intelligible  in  thir  tymes.  Barrie  lyes  midway  betwixt 
Dundie  and  Arbroth,  six  myles  distant  from  either.  Mr  Car- 
negy  Minister,  in  the  diocese  of  St.  Andrews  the  Kings 
Majestic  patrone. 

ANCIENT  FAMILIES  in  the  SHYRE. 

Noblemen.  E.  Strathmore,  Southesk,  Airlie,  Panmure, 
L.  Gray.  Gentlemen  Lairds  of  Edzell  Dun,  Pitcur,  Pourie- 
Fothringham  Fintrie  Claverhous,  Innercarritie,  Bonnietoune, 
Ouchterlony  of  that  ilk  Gairdyne  of  that  ilk,  Auchinlek  of 
that  ilk.  Grange-Durhame  Balmashanner,  Guthrie  of  that  ilk, 
Baljordie,  Balfour  Ogilvy,  Strath martine,  Nevoy  of  that  ilk, 
Ruthvene,  Deuchar  of  that  ilk.  Thornetoune  of  that  ilk. 

Many  great  families  are  extinct  in  this  shyre  within  these 
few  yeires  as  E.  Buchane,  Dundie,  E.  Crauford,  Lords  Spynie 
Olyfant  besydes  many  considerable  barrens  and  gentlemen 
whose  estates  are  purchased  by  private  persons  and  by  mer- 
chants and  burgesses  of  the  severall  burghs  of  the  shyre. 

The  Shyre  is  aboundantlie  furnished  of  all  things  necessare 
for  life,  such  abundance  of  cornes  and  cattle  that  the  con- 
sumption within  the  countrey  is  not  able  to  spend  the  sixt 
part  therof. 

I  will  add  no  more  for  our  familie  of  Ouchterlony  of  that 
ilk  but  what  I  have  said  in  the  generall  description  of  some 
places  we  have  and  had  concern  in.  but  that  I  have  ane 
accompt  of  the  marriages  of  the  familie  thes  fifteen  genera- 
tions viz.  first  Stewart  of  Raisyth  in  Fyff'e,  2.  Maull  of 
Panmure,  3.  Ogilvy  of  Lentrathene  predecessor  to  the  Lords 
of  Ogilvy,  4th  Gray  of  the  Lord  Gray,  5th  Drummond  of  Stob- 
hall  now  Perth,  6th  Keith,  Lord  Mareshall,  7th  Lyon  Lord 
'~-  Glames  8th  Cunningham  of  Barnes,  9th  Stewart  of  Innermeath, 
10th  Olyphant  of  the  Lord  Olyphant,  11th  Scrimgeor  of 
Dudope,  12th  Beatoun  of  Westhall,  13th  Peirsone  of  Loch- 
lands,  14th  Carnegy  of  Newgait,  15th  Maull  cousirie  germane 


GALLOWAY  51 

to  the  deceist  Patrick  E.  of  Panmure.  all  these  are  daughters 
of  the  abovewrettin  families,  the  familie  is  very  antient  and 
very  great  having  above  fourteen  score  chalders  of  victuall 
which  was  a  great  estate  in  those  days,  my  Grandfather  told 
me  he  saw  a  letter  from  Sir  William  Wallace  Governour  of 
Scotland  directed  to  his  trustie  and  assured  friend  the  Laird 
of  Ouchterlony  of  that  ilk  requyring  him  in  all  heast  to  repair 
to  him  with  his  friends  and  servants,  notwithstanding  his 
pass  was  not  out,  which  pass  did  bear,  allowing  him  to  travaill 
from  Cunninghame  head  to  Ouchter  Meigitie  now  Balmadies, 
which  was  his  place  of  residence  about  his  lawfull  affairs  and 
to  repaire  to  him  againe  in  a  short  tyme  therein  prescrived 
for  its  lyke,  says  he,  we  will  have  use  for  you  and  other  honest 
men  in  the  Countrey  within  a  short  tyme  and  accordingly 
the  barns  of  Air  were  burnt  shortly  therafter,  the  letter  and 
pass  are  both  together,  probablie  the  Laird  of  Drum  who 
purchased  the  estate  hath  these  and  other  antiquities  of  our 
familie  but  they  cannot  be  had  for  the  present. 

The  Armes  of  our  familie  are  thus  blazoned  beares  Azur  a 
Lyon  rampant  argent  within  a  border  Gules  entoyre  of  eight 
buckles  above  the  shield  ane  Helmet  mantled  Gules  and 
doubled  Argent  and  on  the  Torse  for  a  crest  ane  Eagle  dis- 
played Azur  with  ane  Escolope  in  hir  buik  argent  and  the 
motto  above  the  Crest  Deus  mihi  adjutor. 


A    LARGE    DESCRIPTION    of   GALLOWAY  the  63. 

parishes  in  it,  by  Mr  ANDREW  SYMSON. 

Whereas  there  came  lately  to  my  hands  some  printed 
sheets,  bearing  the  Nuncius  Scoto-Britannus  sive  Admonitio 
de  Atlante  Scotice  &c  together  with  an  account  of  the  Scotish 
Atlas  &c  subjoynd  thereto,  wherein  it  is  desired  that  you 
may  receave  Answers  to  severall  queries  emitted  by  you,  or 
what  other  information  can  be  had  for  the  embellishment  of 
that  work  which  you  are  to  publish  in  obedience  to  his  sacred 
Majesties  commands.  I  have  judged  it  not  altogether  ex- 
centrical  to  my  profession  to  comply  something  with  my 
Genius  and  therefore  have  drawn  up  this  following  informa- 


52  GALLOWAY 

tion ;  which  although  in  generall  it  may  serve  for  the  whole 
tract  of  Galloway,  and  more  particularly  for  the  Meridian  of 
the  presbitry  of  Vigton,  in  one  of  the  parishes  whereof  I  have 
(by  the  providence  of  God,  and  the  protection  of  his  Sacred 
Majesties  Laws)  for  more  than  twentie  yeares  been  a  residenter, 
per  varios  cams  et  per  discrimina  rerum. 

When  I  mention  the  distance  of  places,  I  would  not  be 
understood  as  speaking  exactly,  geometrically  or  in  recta 
lined,  but  only  according  to  the  vulgar  account,  and  as  the 
Countrey  people  do  commonly  estimate  the  same.  And  so 
also  mentioning  East,  West,  North,  South  &c  I  do  not  always 
mean  exactly,  according  to  that  very  point  of  the  compass, 
but  only  that  the  place  spoken  of  lyes  towards  that  part, 
although  it  may  be  three  or  four  points  distant  from  the 
exact  Cardinal  point  made  mention  of. 

The  tract  of  ground  called  commonly  by  the  name  of 
Galloway  reacheth  from  the  port  which  is  upon  the  Bridge 
of  Dumfreise  (under  which  the  river  of  Nith  runneth)  unto 
the  Mule  of  Galloway  and  extendeth,  according  to  the 
vulgare  estimation,  to  about  threescoir  and  four  miles  in 
length. 

This  tract  of  ground  hath  on  the  east  Nithisdale,  on 
the  south  and  west  it  is  environed  with  the  sea;  on  the 
North  it  is  bounded  with  the  shire  of  Air  viz.  Kyle  and 
Camct. 

Although  this  whole  tract  hath  the  name  of  Galloway,  yet 
it  is  not  subject  to  one  and  the  same  Jurisdiction,  nether 
Civil,  nor  Ecclesiastical,  nor  Consistorial. 

We  shall  divide  it  with  respect  to  its  civil  Jurisdiction,  and 
as  we  speake  particularly  thereof,  we  shall  also  take  notice  of 
the  other  Jurisdictions  contained  therein. 

With  reference  to  its  Civil  Jurisdiction,  it  is  divided  into 
the  Stewartry  of  Kirkcudburgh  and  the  Shire  of  Wigton  ; 
whereof  the  Stewartry  exceeds  the  shire,  both  in  bounds  and 
Valuation,  being  valued  at  5-5-8  parts;  whereas  the  shire  is 
only  valued  at  Sn-8  parts. 

The  Stewartry  of  Kirkcudburgh  is  bounded  on  the  East  with 
Nithisdale ;  on  the  South  with  the  sea;  on  the  West  with 
the  shire  of  Vigton  and  parted  therefrom  by  the  river  of 


TRAQUEER— NEW  ABBEY— KIRKBEEN         53 

Cree.     On  the  North  it  is  bounded  partly  with  Kyle,  partly 
with  Carrick. 

The  Stewartry  of  Kirkcudburgh  containes  twenty  eight  prin- 
cipal parishes  viz. 

1.  Traqueer.     The  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  patron  hereof  it 
being  a  pendicle  of  the  Abbacy  of  Tongueland  of  which  more 
hereafter,  when  we  shall  have  occasion  to  answer  the  Querie 
concerning  the  revenues  of  the  Bishoprick  of  Galloway.     The 
parish   kirk   is  twenty  four  miles   distant  from   the  town  of 
Kirkcudburgh  and  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant  from  the 
town  of  Dumfreise.     The  parish  of  Traqueer  is  bounded  on 
the  east  with  the  toun,  and  parish  of  Dumfreise,  from  which 
it   is   separated  by  the  river  of  Nith.     On  the  south  it  is 
bounded  with  the  parish  of  New  Abbey.     On  the  West  with 
the   parish    of  Lochruiton    and    on  the   Northwest  with  the 
parish  of  Terregles. 

2.  New  Abbey.     The  Bishop  of  Edinburgh  is  patron  hereof; 
which  with  six  other  Kirks  depending  thereon  viz :  Kirkcud- 
burgh, Bootle  Keltoun,   Corsemichael,  Kirkpatrick  and  Orr, 
(of  all    which   more  hereafter)  were    formerly  appointed    for 
the  maintaining  of  the  Castle  of  Edinburgh,  but  when  King . 
Charles  the  Martyr  thought  fit   to    erect   the  Bishoprick  of 
Edinburgh,  his  Majesty  disjoined  the  said  Kirk  of  New  Abbey,  65. 
with  the  other  six  Kirks  depending  thereon  from  the  Castle  of 
Edinburgh,  and  gave  them  to  the  Bishoprick  of  Edinburgh 
towards  the   maintenance   of  the   Bishop   of  that  Sea.     The 
Kirk  of  New  Abbey  is  bounded  on  the  East  with  the  parish 
of  Karlaverock  (in  the  shire  of  Nithisdale),  from  which  it  is 
separated  by  the  river  of  Nith  ;  on  the  south  it  is  bounded 
with  the  parish  of  Kirkbeen.     On  the  West  with  the  parish 
of  Kirkgunnion.     On  the  Northwest  with  the  parish  of  Loch- 
ruiton ;  and  on  the  North  with  the  parish  of  Traqueir. 

3.  Kirkbeen.     Maxwell  of  Kirkhouse  is  patron  hereof.    The 
parish   kirk   is  twentie  four   miles  distant  from  the  town  of 
Kirkcudburgh  and  nine  miles  distant  from  the  town  of  Dum- 
freise.    This  Kirk  [with  some  others,  of  which  more  hereafter 
in  the  description  of  the  parish  of  Terregles]  depended  of  old 
upon  the  pro  vestry  of  Lincluden.     The  parish  of  Kirkbeen  is 
bounded  on  the  east  partly  with   the  parish  of  Karlaverock 


54      COWEND— ORR— KIRKPATRICK-DURHAM 

(from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  river  of  Nith)  and  partly 
with  the  sea.  On  the  south  it  is  bounded  with  the  sea.  On  the 
southwest  with  the  parish  of  Suddick  (of  which  in  the  descrip- 
tion of  the  parish  of  Cowend)  on  the  west  with  the  parish  of 
Kirkgunnion,  and  on  the  north  with  the  parish  of  New  Abbey. 

4.  Cowend.     The  Marquess  of  Queensberry  is    Patron  of 
this  parish  of  Cowend,  (which  also  of  old  depended  on  the 
provestry  of  Lincluden,  of  which  hereafter  in  the  description 
of  the   parish    of  Terregles).     But   there  is  another  parish 
annext    thereto    called    Southwick    (pronounced    Siddick    or 
Suddick)   whereof  the    Bishop    of    Dumblain   is   patron    It 
belonging,  as  I  suppose  to  the  Abbacy  of  Dundranan  (of  which 
hereafter)  to   which  Abbacy  the  Bishop  of  Dumblain  hath 
right  as  Dean  of  his  Majesties  Chapel  Royal.     Tis  said  that 
this  Suddick  is  directly  south  from  John  a  Groatis  house  in 
Cathness.      The   parish    Kirk    of  Cowend    is    thirteen  miles 
distant  from  the  town  of  Kirkcudburgh  and  fourteen  miles 
distant  from  the  toun  of  Dumfreise.     The  parish  of  Cowend 
with  the  annext  parish  of  Suddick  is  bounded  on  the  east  with 
the  parish  of  Kirkbeen ;  on  the  south  with  the  sea ;  on  the 

66.  west  partly  with  the  parish  of  Orr,  and  partly  with  the  parish 
of  Bootle  (from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  river  of  Orr)  and 
partly  with  the  parish  of  Dundranan  (from  which  it  is  sepa- 
rated by  ane  arme  of  the  sea.  On  the  North  it  is  bounded 
with  the  parish  of  Kirkgunnion. 

5.  Orr.     The    Bishop   of  Edinburgh    is    patron   hereof  as 
depending  on  New  Abbey.     The  Kirk  of  Orr  is  twelve  miles 
distant  from  the  toun  of  Kirkcudburgh,  and    twelve   miles 
distant  from  the  toun  of  Dumfreise.     The  parish  of  Orr  is 
bounded  eastwardly  with  the  parish  of  Kirkgunnion.     On  the 
southeast  with  the  parish  of  Cowend  ;  on  the  south  southwest 
with   the    parishes    of   Bootle   and   Corsemichael    from    both 
which  parishes  it  is  separated  by  the  river  of  Orr.     On  the 
Northwest   it   is    bounded    with    the   parish    of    Kirkpatrick 
Durham.     On  the  North  with  the  parish  of  Irongray,  and  on 
the  Northeast  it  is  bound  with  the  parish  of  Lochmiton. 

6.  Kirkpatrick.     This  parish  to  distinguish  it  from  other 
Kirkpatricks  is  called  also  Kirk  Patrick  Durham.     The  lands 
in  this  parish  belonging  to  McNaiglit  of  Kilquonadie  pertained 


KIRKPATRICK-IRONGREY— TERREGLES        55 

of  old  to  the  name  of  Durham.  The  Bishop  of  Edinburgh 
as  having  a  right  to  New  Abbey  is  patron  of  this  parish. 
This  Kirk  of  Kirkpatrick  Durham  is  thirteen  miles  distant 
from  the  toun  of  Kirkcudburgh,  and  eleven  miles  distant  from 
the  town  of  Dumfreis.  The  Parish  of  Kirkpatrick  Durham  is 
bounded  on  the  East  with  Kirkpatrick  Iron  Gray.  On  the 
southeast  with  parish  of  Orr.  On  the  south  it  is  bounded 
with  the  parish  of  Corsemichael,  from  which  it  is  divided  by 
the  river  of  Orr;  on  the  southwest  and  westwardly  it  is 
divided  from  the  parish  of  Partan  by  the  river  of  Orr ;  on  the 
northwest  and  westwardly  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of 
Balmaclellan  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  said  river  of 
Orr.  On  the  North  it  is  bounded  partly  with  the  parish  of 
Glencairn  within  the  shire  of  Nithisdale  and  Presbetry  of 
Pinpont  and  partly  with  the  parish  of  Dunscore  within  the 
shire  of  Nithisdale  and  Presbetry  of  Dumfreise. 

7.  Iron  Grey  called  also  Kirkpatrick  Irongrey.     Mcbrair  of 
New  Wark  is  patron  hereof.     The  parish  Kirk  of  Iron  Grey  67. 
is  twentie  three  miles  distant  from  the  toun  of  Kirkcudburgh 
and   thrie  miles   distant  from   the  toun   of  Dumfreis.     This 
parish  of  Iron  Grey  is  bounded  on  the  East  with  the  parish 
of  Terregles.     On  the  southeast  with  the  parish  of  Lochmiton. 
on  the  south  with  the  parish  of  Orr,  on  the  south  southwest 
with  the  parish  of  Kirkpatrick  Durham.     On  the  west  and 
north  with  parish  of  Dunscore ;  on  the  Northeast  and  North- 
wardly with  the  parish  of  Holy  wood  in  the  shire  of  Nithisdale 
and  presbetry  of  Dumfreis,  from  which  parish  of  Holywood 
to  the  Northeast,  this  parish  of  Iron  Grey  is  divided  by  the 
water  of  Cluden. 

8.  Terregles.     Concerning  the  Latine  name  of  it,  one  man 
told  me  it  was  terra  regalls.    Another  said,  it  was  tertia  Ecclesia. 
A  third  said  it  was  Terra  Ecclesia,  so  that  it  should  be  spell'd 
perhaps  Tereglise.     And  as  there  is  some  debate  concerning 
its  name,  so  there  is  about  its  patronage.    The  Earl  of  Nithis- 
dale and  the  Marquess  of  Queensberry  each  of  them  pretend- 
ing thereto.     Which  of  them  hath  the  best  right,  I  shall  not 
take  upon  me  to  determine  however  the  Intrant  for  his  better 
securitie,  doth  commonly  procure  a  presentation  from  each  of 
them,  but  then  again  the  Archbishop  of  Glasgow  comes  in  for 


56  LOCHMITON— KIRKGUNNION 

his  phare  and  pretends  that  Jus  patronatus  belongs  to  him 
and  thereupon  grants  a  presentation  himself  and  gives  Colla- 
tion only  thereupon.  The  parish  Kirk  is  distant  from  the  town 
of  Kirkcudburgh  twentie  three  miles ;  and  a  large  mile  distant 
from  the  toim  of  Dumfreis.  It  is  but  a  small  parish.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  east  with  the  parish  of  Dumfreis,  and  sepa- 
rated from  it  by  the  river  of  Nith,  on  the  South  East  it  is 
bounded  with  the  parish  of  Traqueer.  On  the  South  and  South- 
west with  the  parish  of  Lochmiton ;  on  the  West  with  the 
parish  of  Iron  Grey ;  on  the  North  with  the  parish  of  Holy- 
wood  from  which  it  is  divided  by  the  water  of  Cluden,  which 
emptietli  itself  in  the  river  of  Nith.  Near  to  this  water  of 
Cluden  is  a  place  called  the  Colledge  or  Provestry  of  Lincluden, 
on  which  this  parish  of  Terregles,  together  with  the  parishes  of 
Kirkbeen,  Co  wend  and  Lochmiton  together  also  with  the 
parish  of  Carlaverock  in  the  shire  of  Nithisdale,  did  of  old 
depend. 

9.  Lochmiton.     The  Marquess   of  Queensberry    is   patron 
hereof.     It  did  of  old  depend  upon  the  provestry  of  Lincluden 
as  hath  been  said  in  the  description  of  the  parish  of  Terregles. 
The  parish   Kirk   is  twenty  miles  distant  from   the  town  of 
Kirkcudburgh,   and    four    miles    distant   from    the    town    of 
Dumfreise.     The    parish   of  Lochmiton   is   bounded   on   the 
East  with   the   parish   of  Traqueer.     On   the  Southeast  with 
the  parish  of  New  Abbey ;  on  the  South  with  the  parish  of 
Kirkgunnion.     On   the  Southwest  and  Westwardly  with  the 
parish  of  Orr :  On  the  North  with  the  parish  of  Iron  Grey. 
On  the  North  and  Northeast  with  the  parish  of  Terregles. 

10.  Kirkgunnion  (or  Kirkgunguent  as  I  am  informed,  ab 
extrema  unctione,  it  being  a  pendicle  of  the  Abbey  of  Holme 
in   Cumberland).     The  Earl  of  Nithisdale  is  patron  hereof. 
This  parish  Kirk  is  sixteen   miles  distant  from  the  toun  of 
Kirkcudburgh  and  eight  miles  distant  from  the  toun  of  Dum- 
freise.    This  parish  is  bounded  on  the  east  with  the  parish  of 
New  Abbey,  on  the  South  with  the  two  annext  Parishes  of 
Suddick  and  Cowend  ;  on  the  Southwest  and  Westwardly  with 
the   parish   of  Orr;    and  on   the  North   with  the    parish    of 
Lochmiton. 

As  to  the  ecclesiastical  Jurisdiction  of  these  ten  parishes 


KIRKCUDBURGH  57 

(being  commonly  called  the  ten  Kirks  beneath  Orr)  they  ly 
within  the  Diocese  of  Glasgow,  and  are  subjected  to  the  care 
of  the  Archbishop  thereof,  and  under  him  are  a  part  of  the 
Presbytry  of  Dumfreis  and  belong  thereunto.  These  parishes 
.also  (excepting  Kirkgunnion)  belong  to  the  Jurisdiction  of  the 
Commissary  of  Dumfreis,  who  also  hath  his  dependance  upon 
the  Archbishop  of  Glasgow.  But  as  for  Kirkgunnion  it  is  a 
distinct  Commissariot  within  itself  where  the  Earl  of  Nithisdale 
is  heretable  Commissary,  but  from  whom  the  said  Earl  derives 
his  authority  I  know  not.  The  reason  why  it  is  a  distinct 
Commissariot  within  itself  and  independent  upon  any  Bishop 
•of  Scotland,  seems  to  be  this,  because,  as  said  is,  it  being  a 
pendicle  of  the  Abbey  of  Holm  in  Cumberland  and  no  Scottish 
Bishop  hath  any  right  to  the  said  Abbey,  and  consequently 
hath  no  right  to  the  Commissariot  in  Kirkgunnion,  which  is, 
as  hath  been  said,  a  pendicle  thereof. 

31.  Kirkcudburgh.  So  called  from  the  Kirk  dedicated  to 
St.  Cudbert.  It  hath  two  other  Kirks  annext  thereto  viz : 
Galtuay  (pronounced  Gaata)  where  Lidderdail  of 

Isle  hath  his  interest,  and  Dunrod  appertaining  to  Sir  David 
Dunbar  of  Baldone.  Kirkcudburgh  is  the  headburgh  of  the 
Stewartry  being  about  twenty  four  miles  from  Dumfreis  West- 
ward, and  about  sixteen  miles  eastward  from  Vigton.  It  is 
a  burgh  royal,  having  a  weekly  mercat  much  frequented, 
together  with  some  other  annual  faires.  It  is  situated  in  a 
very  pleasant  place,  in  a  flexure  of  the  river  of  Dee,  more 
than  a  large  mile  from  the  mouth  of  that  river.  It  hath  an 
excellent  natural  harbour,  to  which  ships  of  a  very  great 
burthen  may  at  full  sea  come,  and  ly  safely  from  all  stormes, 
just  at  the  side  of  the  Kirk  wall.  This  toun  is  commonly 
pronounced  Kerkcubree,  yea  and  commonly  written  Kirku- 
bright.  but  the  true  name  is  Kirkcudburgh.  The  Bishop  of 
Edinburgh  is  patron  of  the  Kirk  of  Kirkcudburgh.  it  being 
a  pendicle  of  New  Abbey.  Above  the  influxe  of  the  river  of 
Dee  is  the  Isle,  calPd  of  old  St.  Maries  Isle,  a  Priory.  And 
therefore  there  is  a  mistake  in  John  Speeds  lesser  Mapps 
(which  are  the  only  Mapps  I  have  beside  me  at  present) 
for  in  his  Map  of  the  Southern  part  of  Scotland,  he  places 
St.  Maria,  on  the  West  side  of  the  mouth  of  Cree,  which 


58  RE  RICK— BOOTLE 

should  have  been  rather  placed  on  the  east  side  of  the  mouth 
of  Dee. 

12.  Rerick.     This  parish  is  also  called  the  parish  of  Monkton 
from  the  Monks  that  dwelt  in  the  Abbey  of  Dundranen,  and 
from  the  said  Abbey  it  is  also  called  the  parish  of  Dundranen. 
Neer  to  the  Abbey  is  a  rivulet  called  Greggen,  from  whence 

70.  (as  some  assert)  the  Abbey  now  called  and  pronounced  Dun- 
dranen, should  be  called  Dungreggen.  It  is  reported  [how 
true  I  know  not]  that  the  famous  Mr  Michael  Scot  was  a 
Monk  belonging  to  this  Abbey.  This  parish  of  Rerick  is 
bounded  towards  the  West  with  the  parish  of  Kirkcudburgh 
(the  Kirk  of  Rerick  being  about  four  miles  distant  from  the 
Kirk  of  Kirkcudburgh).  On  the  South  it  is  bounded  by 
the  sea.  On  the  South  East  it  is  divided  from  a  part  of 
the  parish  of  Cowend  by  a  bay  of  the  river  of  Orr,  more 
eastwardly  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of  Bootle  and  then 
from  the  East  inclining  to  the  North,  it  is  bounded  with  the 
parish  of  Gelston  of  which  more  hereafter  in  the  description 
of  the  parish  of  Kelton.  The  Bishop  of  Dunblaine  as  Deane 
of  the  Chapel  Royal  is  patron  of  the  parish  of  Rerick,  or 
Dundranen,  and  has  a  part  of  his  revenue  paid  out  of  the 
lands  of  that  Abbacy,  he  hath  also  a  bailerie  here  heretablie 
exerc'd  by  the  Earl  of  Nithisdale,  whose  Jurisdiction  reacheth 
over  the  whole  parish,  except  one  Baronie  called  Kirkcastel 
belonging  to  the  Laird  of  Broughton.  In  this  parish  of 
Rerick  there  is  a  good  Milstone  Quarrie,  on  the  sea,  called 
Airdsheugh,  not  far  from  which  is  a  very  safe  harbour  called 
Balcarie,  of  which  lyeth  a  litle  Island  belonging  to  the  Earl 
of  Nithisdale,  of  about  a  mile  circumference  called  the  Isle  of 
Haston,  belonging  also  to  the  parish  of  Rerick,  though  some  say 
it  belongs  to  the  parish  of  Bootle  as  lying  much  neerer  to  it. 

13.  Bootle.     This  parish  Kirk   is  about  nine  or  ten  miles 
distant  from  the  town  of  Kirkcudburgh.     The  Bishop  of  Edin- 
burgh   is    patron    of   this   parish  also ;    it  being   one   of  the 
parishes  which  depend  on  New  Abbey.     The  Kirk  was  of  old 
called  Kirkennen,  and  was  situated  upon  the  river  of  Orr,  neer 
the  mouth  of  it,  but  for  the  more  conveniency  was  translated 
to  the  very  center  of  the  parish   and  called  Bootle,  because 
built    in    the   Baronie  so    called.      The   parish    of  Bootle   is 


BOOTLE— KELTON  59 

bounded  on  the  east  by  the  river  of  Orr,  which  divides  it 
from  the  parishes  of  Orr  and  Cowend,  towards  the  south  and  '//. 
West  it  is  bounded  with  the  parishes  of  Rerick  and  Gelston, 
(of  which  hereafter  in  the  description  of  the  parish  of  Kelton) 
towards  the  northwest  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of  Kelton, 
and  towards  the  north  with  the  parish  of  Corsemichael.  In 
this  parish  of  Bootle  about  a  mile  from  the  Kirk  towards  the 
North  is  a  well,  called  the  rumbling  well,  frequented  by  a 
multitude  of  sick  people,  for  all  sorts  of  diseases  the  first 
Sunday  of  May,  lying  there  the  Saturday  night,  and  then 
drinking  of  it  early  in  the  morning.  There  is  also  another 
well  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant  from  the  former,  towards 
the  East,  this  well  is  made  use  of  by  the  countrey  people  when 
their  cattel  are  troubled  with  a  disease  called  by  them  the 
Connoch ;  this  water  they  carry  in  vessels,  to  many  parts,  and 
wash  their  beasts  with  it,  and  give  it  them  to  drink.  It  is 
to  be  remembred  that  at  both  the  wells  they  leave  behind  them 
some  thing  of  a  thankoffering.  At  the  first  they  leave  ether 
money  or  cloathes ;  at  the  second  they  leave  the  bands  and 
shades,  wherewith  beasts  are  usually  bound. 

14.  Kelton.  This  parish  Kirk  is  about  eight  miles  distant 
from  the  town  of  Kirkcudburgh.  The  Bishop  of  Edinburgh 
is  also  patron  hereof,  it  being  one  of  the  parishes  depending 
on  New  Abbey.  This  parish  of  Kelton  is  bounded  on  the 
North  with  Corsemichael,  toward  the  Northeast,  East,  and 
Southeast  with  the  parish  of  Bootle,  more  Southerly  with 
the  parish  of  Rerick,  towards  the  West  it  is  bounded  with 
the  parish  of  Kirkcudburgh,  as  also  by  a  part  of  the  parishes 
of  Tongueland  and  Balmaghie,  from  both  which  it  is  separated 
by  the  river  of  Dee.  This  parish  of  Kelton  hath  two  other 
parishes  annext  thereto  viz.  Gelston  and  Kifkcormock,  though 
both  those  Kirks  are  ruinous.  Gelston  in  which  the  Earl  of 
Galloway  pretends  an  interest,  lyes  distant  from  the  Kirk 
of  Kelton  a  large  mile,  towards  Southeast.  Kirkcormock  is 
only  a  chapel,  and  not,  as  it  would  seem,  a  compleat  parish, 
though  so  ordinairly  called,  it  depends  on  the  Bishop  of  71 
Edinburgh,  is  distant  from  Kelton  about  two  miles  towards 
the  southwest,  the  Kirk  or  Chapel  of  Kirkcormock  lying  upon 
the  very  brink  of  Dee. 


60    CORSEMICHAEL— PARTAN— BALMACLELLAN 

15.  Corsemichael.     This  parish  Kirk  is  twelve  miles  distant 
from   the  town    of   Kirkcudburgh,   keeping  the  way  thereto 
upon  the  eastside  of  Dee,  but  it  is  only  eight  miles  the  neerest 
way,  but  then  you   must  cross  the  water  of  Dee  twice,  viz.  at 
the   boat   of  Balmaghie,  and   at   the  toun  of  Kirkcudburgh. 
The  Bishop  of  Edinburgh  is  patron  of  this  Kirk  also,  it  being 
another  of  the  parishes  depending  on  New  Abbey.     The  parish 
of  Corsemichael  is  bounded   on   the  East  with  the  parishes 
of   Kirkpatrick     and    Orr,   from    both    which    it    is   divided 
by    the    river   of    Orr.      On    the    south    with    the    parishes 
of  Bootle   and    Kelton ;    on    the    West   with    the   parish   of 
Balmaghie  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  river  of  Dee.     On 
the  North  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of  Partan. 

16.  Partan.     This  parish  Kirk,  (being  about  two  miles  to 
the   Northward    distant  from    the  Kirk   of  Corsemichael)  is 
fourteen  miles  distant  from  the  town  of  Kirkcudburgh,  keep- 
ing the  way  on  the  east  of  Dee  but  it  is  only  ten  miles  the 
neerest  way,  but  then  the  water  of  Dee  must  be  crossed  twice. 
There  are  three  pretenders  to  the  Patronage  of  this  Kirk. 
The  Viscount  of  Kenmuir,  the  Laird  of  Partan,  and  the  Laird 
of  Drumrash.     Which  of  them  hath  the  best  right,  I  know 
not,  but  upon  their  disagreeing,  the  Bishop  of  Galloway  is 
necessitat  sometimes  to  present  thereto  Jure  devoluto.     This 
parish  of  Partan  is  bounded  on  the  East  with  the  parishes  of 
Dunscore  and  Kirkpatrick  from  both  which  it  is  separated  by 
the  water  of  Orr ;    on   the  south   with  the  parish   of  Corse- 
michael.    On   the  West  with   the  parish  of  Balmaghie  and 
part  of  the  Kells,  from   both  which   it   is   separated   by  the 
river  of  Dee.     On  the  North  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish 
of  Balmaclellan. 

These  sixe  parishes  last  described  viz.  Kirkcudburgh,  Rerick, 
73.  Bootle,  Kelton,  Corsemichael  and  Partan  are  all  lying  betwixt 
the  Rivers  of  Orr  and  Dee. 

17.  Balmaclellan.     This   parish   Kirk,  being  about  five  or 
six  miles  to  the  Northward   of  the  Kirk  of  Partan,  will  be 
about  twenty  miles  distant  from  the  town  of  Kirkcudburgh, 
by  the  way  on  the  east  side  of  Dee,  but  crossing  at  the  boat 
of  the  Rhone  viz.  at  the  influx  of  the  river  of  Dee  into  the 
Loch   of  Kenn,  it  will   be   but  about  fourteen  miles  distant 


DALRY  61 

from  Kirkcudburgh.  The  Bishop  of  Dumblain  is  patron  of 
the  Kirk  of  Balmaclellan,  as  also  of  the  Kirk  of  the  Kells,  of 
which  more  hereafter.  If  I  mistake  not,  his  right  of  patronage 
to  these  two  Kirks,  is  as  being  Dean  of  the  Chapel  Royal 
and  as  such,  hath  a  right  to  the  Abbacy  of  Dundranen,  and 
the  Kirks  depending  thereon.  This  parish  of  Balmaclellan  is 
bounded  on  the  North  with  the  parish  of  Dairy.  On  the 
Northeast  and  East  with  the  parish  of  Glencairn  in  the  shire 
of  Nithisdale,  and  presbytry  of  Pinpont;  on  the  Southeast 
with  the  parish  of  Dunscore  in  the  said  shire  of  Nithisdale  and 
Presbytry  of  Dumfreis.  On  the  South  it  is  bounded  with  the 
parish  of  Partan ;  on  the  West  with  the  parish  of  the  Kells 
and  separated  from  it  by  the  river  of  Kenn. 

18.  Dairy.  This  Kirk  being  about  two  miles  to  the  North- 
ward of  Balmaclellan,  will  be  more  than  twenty  miles  distant 
from  the  toun  of  Kirkcudburg,  going  by  the  way  on  the  East- 
side  of  Dee,  but  crossing  the  river  of  Kenn  and  thence  crossing 
at  the  boat  of  the  Rone,  and  then  again  crossing  at  the  toun 
of  Kirkcudburgh  it  will  be  about  sixteen  miles  distant  there- 
from. The  Viscount  of  Kenmuir  is  patron  of  Dairy,  and  it 
is,  at  least  should  be,  a  free  parsonage.  The  kirk  of  Dairy 
is  seated  upon  the  east  brink  of  the  river  of  Kenn,  and 
there  is  a  very  pleasant  valley  from  thence  down  the  river 
side.  About  a  furlong  distant  from  the  east  end  of  the  Kirk 
there  is  a  litle  toun  commonly  called  St.  Johns  Clachan  or 
the  old  Clachan,  partly  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway'^ 
and  partly  to  the  Laird  of  Earlstoun.  This  parish  is  bounded 
on  the  South  with  the  parish  of  Balmaclellan,  on  the  West 
with  the  parish  of  the  Kells,  from  which  it  is  seperated  by 
the  river  of  Kenn.  On  the  North  it  is  separated  from  the 
parish  of  Corsefairn  by  the  said  river  of  Kenn.  On  the  North- 
east it  is  bounded  partly  with  the  parish  of  Cumlock  in  Kyle 
and  partly  with  the  parish  of  Sanquhair  in  Nithisdale.  On 
the  East  it  is  bounded  partly  with  the  parish  of  Pinpont  at 
Polskeoch  and  then  with  the  parish  of  Glencairn  in  Nithis- 
dale, from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  water  of  Castlefairne. 
Severall  years  since  there  was  one  who 

travelling  and  trading  in  England,  acquired  great  riches,  and 
having  no  children  left  a  vast  summe  for  maintaining  of  a 


62  CORSEFAIRNE— KELLS 

free  school  in  the  parish  of  Dairy,  but  his  money  and  papers 
falling  into  sacrilegious  hands  the  pious  designe  of  the  donor 
was  almost  wholly  maid  void,  however  the  affair  is  not  so 
desperat,  but  if  honest  men  in  that  parish  would  be  active  in 
it,  they  might  yet  recover  a  considerable  part  of  it,  though  far 
from  that  which  was  at  first  appointed. 

19.  Corsefairne.     This  parish  kirk,  being  eight  miles  distant 
to  the  Northward  from  Dairy,  will  be  more  than  twentie  eight 
miles  distant  from  Kirkcudburgh,  going  by  the  way  on  the 
Eastside  of  Dee,  but  crossing  the  river  of  Kenn  twice,  and 
then  crossing  Dee  at  the  boat  of  the  Rone,  and  the  boat  of 
Kirkcudburgh.     it  will  be  but  about  twentie  four  miles  distant 
therefrom.     The  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  patron  of  the  kirk  of 
Corsefairne.     This  parish   is  in   part  bounded  on  the  South 
with  the  parish  of  Dairy  (and  separated  therefrom   by  the 
river  of  Kenn)  and  in  part  with  the  parish  of  the  Kells,  being 
of  old  a  part  of  the  said  parish  but  now  separated  therefrom 
by  Bourn  which  emptieth  itself  into  the  water 
of  Kenn.     On  the  West  it  is   bounded   with   the   parish  of 

75.  Monygaffe.  On  the  Northwest  with  the  parish  of  Dumull- 
ington.  This  parish  of  Corsefairn  running  up  as  far  as  Loch 
Dune.  On  the  North  East  and  East  with  the 

In  this  parish  of  Corsefairn  there  is  a  consider- 
able water  called  the  Water  of  Deugh  having  its  rise  in  the 

and  runneth  hard  by  the  Kirk 

of  Corsefairn,  On  the  Westend  thereof,  and  at  length  loseth 
its  name  by  entering  into  the  river  of  Kenn  two  miles  beneath 
the  said  Kirk  of  Corsefairne. 

20.  Kells.     This  parish   Kirk   will  be  but  about  fourteen 
miles  distant  from  the  town  of  Kirkcudburgh.     The  Bishop 
of  Dumblain  is  patron  hereof,  of  which  formerly  in  the  descrip- 
tion of  the  parish  of  Balmaclellan.     The  Kirk  of  the  Kells 
stands  about  a  short  half  mile  on  the  Westside  of  the  water 
of  Kenn,  opposit  to  the  Kirk  of  Balmaclellan,  which  will  be 
more  than  a  mile  distant  from  the  eastside  of  the  said  river. 
In  this  parish  about  a  furlong  from  the  Westside  of  the  river 
of  Kenn  is  a  litle  Burgh  royal  named  New-Galloway  or  the 
Newtoun,  and  hath  a  pretty  good  mercat  every  Wednesday 
beside  a  yearly  fair.     To  the  Southward  of  this  town,  is  the 


BALMAGHIE  63 

Castle  of  Kenmuir,  one  of  the  dwelling  houses  of  the  Viscount 
of  Kenmuir,  it  is  pleasantly  scituated  on  a  mount,  having  a 
wood  of  great  overgrowne  oakes  on  the  one  side,  viz.  betwixt 
it  and  the  towne,  and  on  the  other  side  pleasant  meadows 
lying  on  the  river  of  Kenn,  Where  here  begins  to  run  in  a 
deep  loch  for  the  space  of  seaven  or  eight  miles  but  four 
miles  beneath  the  Kenmuir,  at  a  point  called  the  boat  of  the 
Rone,  the  river  of  Dee  meeteth  the  said  Loch  of  Kenn,  and 
from  thence  to  the  sea,  the  River  bears  only  the  name  of 
Dee.  This  parish  of  the  Kells  is  bounded  on  the  East  with 
the  parishes  of  Dairy  and  Balmaclellan  and  a  part  of  Partan, 
from  all  which  it  is  separated  by  the  river  of  Kenn.  Upon 
the  Northwest  and  North  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of  76. 
Corsefairne  and  separated  from  it  by  Bourn  which 

empties  itself  into  Kenn.  On  the  West  it  is  bounded  with 
the  parish  of  Monnygaste  and  a  point  of  Girthtown,  and 
at  the  Rone  it  is  bounded  southwardly  with  the  parish  of 
Balmaghie,  from  which  three  parishes,  it  is  separated  by  the 
river  of  Dee.  This  parish  of  Kells,  excepting  about  the 
Newton  and  the  Kenmuir,  is  for  the  most  part  Muirs  and 
Mountaines. 

These  four  last  parishes  above  described  viz.  Balmaclellan, 
Dairy,  Corsefairn,  and  the  Kells,  ly  eastward  of  the  River  of 
Dee,  and  because  the  River  of  Kenn  runs  through  them,  there- 
fore they  are  commonly  called  Glenkennes. 

21.  Balmaghie.  This  Kirk  is  about  seaven  miles  distant 
from  the  toun  of  Kirkcudburgh.  The  Laird  of  Balmaghie 
is  patron  hereof.  The  parish  of  Balmaghie  is  bounded  on 
the  East  with  the  parishes  of  Partan,  Corsemichael,  and 
Kelton,  from  all  which  it  is  separated  by  the  river  of  Dee. 
On  the  South  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of  Tongueland. 
Towards  the  Southwest  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of 
Borgue.  Westward  and  Northwest  it  is  bounded  with  the 
parish  of  Girthton.  On  the  North  it  is  bounded  with 
the  parish  of  Kells,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  river 
of  Dee.  In  the  river  of  Dee  a  litle  beneath  a  place  called  the 
Graimefoord,  lyes  an  Island  calld  ye  Th reave,  belonging  to 
the  said  parish  of  Balmaghie.  In  this  Island  the  Black 
Dowglass  had  a  strong  house  wherein  he  sometime  dwelt. 


fi4       BALMAGHIE— TONGUELAND— TWYNAM 

It  is  reported,  how  true  I  know  not,  that  the  peeces  of  money 
called  Douglas  groats  were  by  him  coyned  here.  As  also  here 
it  was  that  he  detained  Sheriff  McClellan  prisoner  and  when 
the  King  sent  him  a  letter  requiring  him  to  set  him  at  liberty, 
he  suspecting  the  purport  of  the  message,  took  the  messenger 
in,  and  by  discourse  entertained  him,  but  in  the  meantime 
gave  private  orders  to  hang  McClellan  instantly.  At  lenth 
the  letter  being  receavM  and  opened  and  the  contents  known, 
he  regrated  that  the  letter  came  no  sooner,  for  the  man  was 
just  hang'd  which  he  let  the  messenger  see  by  opening  of  a 
77.  window.  The  common  report  also  goes  in  that  countrey,  that  in 
this  Isle  of  the  Threave,  the  great  iron  gun  in  the  castle  of  Edin- 
burgh, called  commonly  Mount-Megg,  was  wrought  and  made  ; 
but  I  am  not  bound  to  believe  it  upon  their  bare  report. 

22.  Tongueland.     So  called  from   a  tongue  of  land  lying 
betwixt  the  river  of  Dee,  and  a  litle  Water  called  the  water 
of  Tarffe,  which  hath  its  rise  in  the  same  parish,  at  the  meeting 
of  which  two  waters,  there  was  the  Abbay  of  Tongueland  ;  the 
steeple  and  part  of  the  walls  are  yet  standing.     The  Bishop  of 
Galloway  is  patron  hereof,  and  hath  a  regality  or  at  least  a 
Baronrie  here,  the  Viscount  of  Kenmuir  being  heritable  Bayly 
thereof.     This  Kirk  is  two  miles  distant  from  Kirkcudburgh. 
The  parish  of  Tongueland  is  bounded  on  the  East  with  the 
parishes  of  Kelton    and   Kirkcudburgh    from    both   which  it 
is   separated   by    the  river  of  Dee.     Toward  the  South  and 
Southwest  it  is   bounded  with  the  parish  of  Twynam,  more 
Westwardly  it  is  bounded  with   the  parish  of  Borgue.     On 
the  West  and  Northwest  with  the  parish  of  Girthon  and  on 
the  North  with  the  parish  of  Balmaghie. 

23.  Twynam.    This  Kirk  is  distant  two  miles  northward  from 
Kirkcudburgh.    Sir  David  Dunbar  of  Baldone  is  patron  hereof. 
This  parish  of  Twynam  is  bounded  on  the  East  and  South  with 
the  parish  of  Kirkcudburgh  from  which  it  is  divided  by  the 
river  of  Dee.     On  the  West  with  the  parish  of  Borgue 

The  parish  of  Twyname  hath  another  Kirk  annexed  thereto, 
though  altogether  ruinous,  called  Kirkchrist,  lying  upon  the 
Westside  of  the  river  of  Dee,  not  far  from  the  brink  thereof, 
just  opposit  to  the  toun  of  Kirkcudburgh. 


BORGUE  65 

24.  Borgue.  This  parish  Kirk  is  three  miles  westward  distant 
from  Kirkcudburgh.     The  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  patron  of 
this   parish.     On   the  east  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of 
Kirkcudburg  from  which  it  is  divided  by  the  river  Dee,  on  the 
south  it  is  bounded  by  the  sea,  on  the  West  and  part  of  the  76'. 
North  by  the  parish  of  Girthton  on  the  North  also,  in  part,  and 
wholly   on   the  Northeast  by  the  parish  of  Twynam.     This 
parish  of  Borgue  hath  two  other  parishes  annexed  thereto, 
the  one  called  Kirkanders,  and  the  other  Senick,  whereof  the 
Bishop  of  Galloway  is  also  patron.     This  parish  of  Borgue 
with  the  other  two  parishes  annext  thereto,  is  about  four  miles 
in  length,  and  for  the   most  part  three  in   breadth,  except 
towards  the  foot  thereof  towards  the  seaside,  where  it  will  be 
four  miles  broad.     The  minister  hereof  is  one  of  the  members 
of  the    Chapter   and    of    old    was    Praecentor.      This  parish 
abounds  with  plenty  of  corne,  wherewith   it  furnishes  many 
other  places  in  the  Stewartrie,  supplying  them  both  with  meal 
and  malt.     In  the  midle  of  this  parish,  there  is  a  good  strong 
house,  called  the  Castle  of  Plunton-Lennox,  possessed  of  a  long 
time  by  the  name  of  Lennox,  till  of  late  when  it  came  into 
the  possession  of  Richard  Murray  of  Broughton,  whose  Lady 
is  one  of  that  name,  and  family.     In  the  parish  of  Sennick 
there  is  a  very  famous  and  large  harbour,  called  the  bay  of 
Bemangane,1  it  is  one  of  the  best  harbours  in  the  West  of 
Scotland ;  for  there  ships  of  all  sizes  are  secure,  blow  the  wind 
which  way  it  will.     Adjacent   to  this   Bay  is  a  promontory 
called  the  Mickle  Ross,  wherein  is  to  be  seen  the  ruines  of  an 
old  castle  where  in  times  past  some  of  the  inhabitants  have 
digg'd  up  silver  plate,  as  I  am  informed,  as  also  therein  have 
found  certain  peeces  of  silver  with  a  strange  and  uncouth  im- 
pression thereon,   resembling  the  old  Pictish  coine.     Half  a 
mile  from  the  Ross  is  the  famous  well  of  Kessickton,  medicinal, 
as  it  is  reported,  for  all  sorts  of  diseases,  the  people  hereabouts 
flocking  to  it  in  the  summertime.     In  the  Kirkyard  of  Kirk- 
anders upon  the  ninth  day  of  August,  there  is  a  fair  kept  called 
Saint  Lawrence  fair,  where  all  sort  of  merchant  wares  are  to  be 
sold,  but  the  fair  lasts  only  three  or  four  houres  and  then  the 


1  '  Balmangan  '  interlined.. — ED. 
VOL.  II. 


66  GIRTHTON— ANWOTH 

people  who  flock  hither  in  great  companies  drink  and  debauch 
and  commonly  great  leudness  is  committed  here  at  this  fair. 
79.  A  litle  above  Roberton,  within  half  a  mile  of  the  Kirk  of 
Kirkandres,  is  to  be  seen  the  ruines  of  an  old  town  calPd 
Rattra,  wherein,  as  the  present  inhabitant  thereabouts  say, 
was  of  old  kept  a  weekly  market,  but  the  town  is  long  since 
demolished,  and  neer  the  ruines  thereof  is  now  a  litle  village 
which  yet  retaines  the  name  of  the  old  town.  Upon  the  coast 
of  this  parish  are  many  sorts  of  white  fish  taken,  one  kind 
whereof  is  called  by  the  Inhabitants  Greyheads,  which  are  a 
very  fine  firm  fish,  big  like  Haddocks,  some  greater,  some  lesser. 

25.  Girth  ton.     This  parish  Kirk  is  about  five  miles  to  the 
Westward  of  Kirkcudburgh.    The  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  patron 
hereof.     This  parish  of  Girthton  is  bounded  on  the  East  with 
the  parishes  of  Balmaghie  and  Borgue.     On  the  South  with 
the  sea.    On  the  West  it  is  divided  from  the  parish  of  Anwoth 
by  the  water  of  Fleet,  (Speed  calls  it  Flint),  that  hath  its  rise 
from  the  great  mountain  of  Cairnsmuir  lying  to  the  Northwest. 
On  the  Northwest  it  joynes  with  the  parish  of  Kirkmabreck. 
On  the  North  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of  Monnygaffe, 
and  on  the  Northeast  with  the  parish  of  the  Kells  from  which  it 
is  separated  by  the  river  of  Dee.     About  two  miles  from  the 
Kirk    of  Girthton  in   the  road   way  betwixt  Dumfreise  and 
Wigton,  at  a  place  called  the  Gatehouse  of  Fleet,  there  is  a 
market  for  good  fat  Kine  kept  on  the  friday  after  the  first 
thursday  which  is  after  the  first  Monday  of  Novr  and  so  every 
Friday  thereafter,   till  Christmass.     This  market  being  ruPd 
by  the  dyetts  of  the  Nolt  market  of  Vigton,  of  which  more 
hereafter  in  the  description  of  that  town  and  Parish. 

26.  Anwoth.     This  parish  Kirk  is  near  seaven  miles  distant 
from    the    town    of   Kirkcudburgh.     Westward   just   in    the 
way    betwixt    Kirkcudburgh     and     Wigton.       Sir    Godfrey 
McCulloch  of  Myrton  as  Laird  of  Cardiness  is  patron  hereof. 
It  is  separated  on  the  East  from  the  parish  of  Girthton  by  the 

<w.  water  of  Fleet.  On  the  south  it  is  bounded  on  the  sea.  On 
the  west  it  is  divided  from  the  parish  of  Kirkmabrek  by  a 
rivulet  called  Skairsbourn,  which  having  its  rise  from  Cairns- 
muir and  the  adjacent  northern  mountains,  will  even  in  the 
summertime  and  in  a  moment  almost,  by  reason  of  the  mists 


KIRKMABRECK  67 

and  vapours  in  those  hills,  be  so  great,  that  it  will  be  hardly 
foordable  which  occasioned  the  proverb  of  Skairsbourns  warn- 
ing applicable  to  any  trouble  that  comes  suddenly  and  un- 
expectedly. This  sudden  inundation  proceeds  as  said  is,  from 
the  mists  and  vapours  on  Cairnsmuir  hence  the  common 
people  say  when  that  Cairnesmuir  hath  a  hat,  Palnure  (of 
which  more  hereafter  in  the  description  of  the  river  of  Cree) 
and  Skairsburn  laugh  at  that.  On  the  North  the  parish  of 
Anwoth  is  bounded  with  the  parishes  of  Kirkmabreck  and 
Girthton. 

27.  Kirkmabreck.  So  called  from  some  saint  or  other, 
whose  name  they  say  was  McBreck  a  part  of  whose  statue  in 
wood,  was  about  thirty  years  since,  in  ane  old  Chapel  at  the 
ferrietoun  distant  about  to  the  of  the  Kirk 

of  Kirk  Mcbreck,  which  Kirk  about  thirty  years  since  was 
taken  down  and  left  desolate  and  the  parish  Kirk  was  then 
built  at  the  said  Chapel,  and  therefore  the  parish  is  sometimes 
also  called  the  Ferritoun,  which  Ferritown  is  a  litle  clachan 
upon  the  Eastside  of  the  river  of  Cree,  where  there  us'd  to  be 
a  boat  for  the  ferrying  of  passengers  over  water  of  Cree  in 
their  passage  to  Vigton,  which  is  just  opposit  thereto  and  in 
view  thereof  though  three  or  four  miles  distant.  This  Kirk  of 
Ferritown  is  twelve  miles  distant  from  Kirkcudburgh  West- 
ward. The  Laird  of  Rusco  is  patron  hereof.  It  hath  another 
parish  annexed  thereto  called  Kirkdale  or  Kirdale  being  dis- 
tant from  the  old  Kirk  of  Kilmabreck  about  a  mile  towards 
the  and  is  a  pendicle  of  the  Abbacy  of  Dundranen  ; 

the  Kirk  is  wholly  ruinous.  About  a  furlong  from  the  Kirk  of 
Kirkdale  towards  the  Southeast  there  is  a  cairn  or  great  heap 
of  small  hand-stone  with  five  or  six  high  stones  erected, 
besides  which  high  stones,  the  smaller  ones  being  removed  by  81. 
the  countrey  people  for  building  of  their  corne  dikes,  there 
were  five  or  six  tombs  discovered,  made  of  thin  whinstones. 
In  Camerotmuir  in  the  said  parish  of  Kirkdale,  about  a  mile 
from  the  said  Kirk  northward  there  is  a  stone  four  or  five  foot 
in  diameter,  called  the  Pennystone,  under  which  money  is 
fancied  to  be  ;  this  stone  hath  upon  it  the  resemblance  of  that 
draught  which  is  commonly  called  the  walls  of  Troy.  The 
manse  belonging  to  the  minister  of  KirkMcbreck  or  Ferri- 


68  KIRKMABRECK 

toun  is  called  the  halfe  mark,  and  will  be  a  mile  distant  from 

Ferrietown  southwardly  upon  the  bank  of  the  river  of  Cree. 

It  is  a  very  pleasant  place  and  the  Minister  hath  the  benefit  of 

a  salmond  fishing  there.     This  Manse  called  the  halfe  mark  is 

distant  to  the  westward  about  halfe  a  mile  from  the  old  kirk 

of  KirkMcbreck,  there  is  a  well,  which  I  am  informed,  proceeds 

from  Vitriol.     This  parish  of  Kirkmcbreck  with  the  annext 

parish  of  Kirdale,  is  bounded  on  the  East  with  the  parish  of 

Anwoth,  and   separated  from  it  by   the   little   rivulet  called 

Scairsbourn,  which  empties  itself  into  the  sea.     On  the  South 

it  is  bounded  with  the  sea.     On  the  East  with  the  river  of 

Cree,  which  here  at  an  high  water  will  be  three  or  four  miles 

broad  ;  though  at  low  water  it  is  contained  in  a  narrow  chanel ; 

it  divides  betwixt  Kirkmcbreck  and  the  shire  of  Vigton.     On 

the  North  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of  Monnygaffe  and 

divided  in  part  therefrom   by  the  Graddockbourn,  which  hath 

its  rise  in  the  Mountain  of  Cairnsmuir  and  running  westward 

empties  itself  into  the  river  of  Cree. 

These  seaven  parishes  last  described  (viz.  Balmaghie,  Tongue- 
land,  Twynam,  Borgue,  Girthton,  Anwoth  and  Kirkmabreck  as 
also  Monnygaffe  of  which  hereafter)  ly  betwixt  the  rivers  of 
Dee  and  Cree. 

The  seaventeen  parishes  last  described  viz.  Kirkcud burgh, 
Rerick,  Bootle,  Kelton,  Corsemichael,  Partan,  Balmaclellan. 
Dairy,  Corsefairn,  Kells,  Balmaghie,  Tongueland,  Twynam, 
.  Borgue,  Girthton,  Anwoth,  and  Kirkmcbreck,  make  up  the 
Presbytry  of  Kirkcudburgh,  one  of  the  three  Presbyteries 
within  the  Dioces  of  Galloway.  Kirkcudburgh  is  the  ordinary 
seat  of  that  Presbytrie,  where  the  members  of  the  Presbytrie 
meet  most  commonly  upon  the  first  tuesday  of  every  month,  for 
exerceing  of  Church  Discipline,  and  other  Ecclesiastical  affairs 
incumbent  on  them. 

The  Commissary  of  Kirkcudburgh  also  hath  Jurisdiction 
over  these  seaventeen  parishes  in  reference  to  causes  Con- 
sistoriall.  he  derives  his  Authority  from  the  Bishop  of 
Galloway  and  holds  his  Courts  ordinarly  at  the  town  of  Kirk- 
cudburgh, on  every  Fryday  except  in  times  of  Vacance. 

28.  Monnygaffe.  So  called  as  I  suppose  qu.  Munnachs 
gulfe  from  the  river  of  Munnach  in  this  parish,  which  after 


MONNYGAFFE 


69 


many  windings  and  turnings  empties  itself  into  the  river  of 
Cree.     The  parish  Kirk  of  Monnygaffe,  lying  six  miles  to  the 
Northwest  of  Ferriton  or  KirkMcbreck  is  eighteen  miles  distant 
from  the  town  of  Kirkcudbright  and  six  miles  to  the  Northward 
of  Vigton.     The  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  patron  hereof.     This 
parish  is  bounded  on  the  East  with  the  water  of  Dee  by  which 
it  is  separated  from  the  parishes  of  Corsefairne  and  the  Kells. 
Towards  the  Southeast  and  more  Southwardly  it  is  bounded 
with  the  parish  of  Girthton.    On  the  South  with  the  parish  of 
Kirkmabreck,    from    which    it    is   in   part  separated   by    the 
Graddock   Bourne.      On   the  West  it  is    bounded   with   the 
parish  of  Pennygham,  in  the  shire  of  Vigton.  from  which  it  is 
separated   by  the   river   of  Cree.     On    the  Northwest  it    is 
bounded  with  the  parish  of  Cammonel  in  Carrick  from  which 
it  is  also  separated  by  the  river  of  Cree.     More  Northward  it 
is  bounded  partly   with  the  parish   of  Ban*  in  Carrick,  and 
partly  with   the  parish  of  Dumallington   in   Kyle.     So  that 
this  parish  of  Monny gaffe  is  exactly  lying  betwixt  the  rivers 
of  Dee  and  Cree,  and  though  lying  within  the  bounds  of  the 
Stewartrie  of  Kirkcudburgh  and  subject  to  the  Stewart  thereof 
of  which  more  hereafter,  yet  it  belongs  both  to  the  Presbytry 
and   Commissariot  of  Vigton,  by  reason   that  it  is  eighteen  & 
miles  distant  from  the  town  of  Kirkcudburgh  and  the  way  not 
very  good  ether,  when  as  it  is  but  six  miles  from  Vigton,  and 
that   excellent  good    way    both    winter  and  summer,   and  it 
also  most  fit  it  should  belong  to  the  Commissariot  of  Vigton, 
because  having  a  weekly  Mercat  in  it,  which  is  for  the  most 
part  supplyed  by  people  dwelling  in  that  Commissariot,  those 
people  who  supply  that  mercat  with  meal,  malt  &c.  would  be 
put  to  excessive  trouble,  should  they  be  necessitate  to  pursue 
their  debitors   which   often  happens,   before  the  Stewart  for 
small  summs  at  so  great  a  distance.    This  parish  of  Monny gaffe 
is  a  very  large  one,  being  at  least  sixteen  miles  in  length  and 
eight  miles  in  breadth.     The  greatest  part  whereof  consists  of 
great  hills,  mountains,  Rocks  and  Moors.    It  hath  in  it  a  litle 
town  oi%  burgh  of  baronrie,  depending  upon  the  Laird  of  Larg, 
situate  upon  the  Eastside  of  the  river  of  Cree,  neer  the  brink 
thereof.     It  hath  a  very  considerable  Market  every  Saturday, 
frequented  by  the  Moormen  of  Carrick,  Monnygaffe  and  other 


70  MONNYGAFFE 

moor  places,  who  buy  there  great  quantities  of  meal  and  malt 
brought  thither  out  of  the  parishes  of  Whitherne  Glaston, 
Sorbie,  Mochram,  Kirkinner  &c  of  whicli  places  we  shall  have 
occasion  to  speake  when  we  come  to  the  shire.  The  Kirk  of 
MonnygafFe  is  divided  from  the  toun  by  a  rivulet  called  Pink- 
ill  bourn,  which  is  sometimes  so  great  that  the  people,  in  re- 
pairing to  the  church,  are  necessitat  to  go  almost  a  mile  about, 
crossing  at  a  bridge  built  over  the  said  rivulet  a  short  half 
mile  above  the  town.  The  farthest  part  of  this  parish  is  at 
least  twelve  miles  distant  Northward  from  the  parish  Kirk,  and 
the  way  excessively  bad,  and  therefore  it  hath  been  many 
times  wisht  that  the  parish  were  disjoined  and  made  two 
parishes,  and  another  Kirk  built  at  a  place  called  the  house  of 
the  hill,  some  six  miles  Northward,  in  the  highway  betwixt 
Vigton  and  Air.  The  Inhabitants  of  that  upper  part  of  the 
parish  would  be  content  to  contribute  something  to  that 
effect.  It  hath  been  endeavoured  to  get  a  Kirk  erected  there, 

84.  but  as  yet  that  affair  hath  been  unsuccesfull  and  for  any  thing 
T  know,  will  continue  so  to  be,  unless  people  concerned  therein 
will  learn  to  be  more  religious,  which  I  fear,  will  not  be  in 
hast.  Principall  Edifices  in  this  parish  are  (1)  Gairlies.  The 

•  Ancient  Residence  of  the  Lairds  of  Gairlies  before  that  family 
was  nobilitated.  it  doth  yet  furnish  a  title  to  the  Earl  of 
Galloway  his  eldest  son,  who  is  Lord  Gairlies.  This  house, 
being  about  a  mile  to  the  Northward  of  the  Kirk  &  toun  stands 
in  the  midst  of  a  very  fine  oakwood  pertaining  to  the  said 
Earl.  Who  also  hath  another  excellent  oakwood  in  this 
parish,  lying  upon  the  water  of  Cree,  two  miles  above  the  Kirk 
and  toun.  This  wood  will  be  two  or  three  miles  in  length,  and 
hath  good  timber  in  it,  from  whence  the  greatest  part  of  the 
shire  of  Vigton  furnish  timber  for  building  of  houses  and  other 
uses.  The  Earl  of  Galloways  lands  in  this  Parish  being  very 
considerable  here,  are,  as  I  have  been  informed,  erected  into  a 
Stewartrie,  and  the  said  Earl  is  heritable  Stewart  thereof. 
(2)  Larg,  appertaining  to  Mckie  of  Larg,  a  very 

ancient  name  and  family  in  this  countrey.  Hereabout  is  a 
well  called  the  Gout-well  of  Larg,  of  which  they  tell  this 
story,  how  that  a  Piper  stole  away  the  offering  left  at  this 
well,  (these  offerings  are  some  inconsiderable  thing  which  the 


MONNYGAFFE  71 

countrey  people  used  to  leave  at  wells,  when  they  come  to 
make  use  of  them  towards  any  cure)  but  when  he  was  drinking 
of  ale,  which  he  intended  to  pay  with  the  money  he  had  taken 
away,  the  gout  as  they  say,  seized  on  him  of  which  he  could 
not  be  cure!  but  at  that  well,  having  first  restored  to  it  the 
money  he  had  formerly  taken  away.  (3)  Macchirmore  or 
the  Head  of  the  Macchirs,  (of  which  word  more  hereafter,  for 
indeed  there  is  not  much  white  ground  above  it)  pertaining  to 
Dunbar  of  Macchirmore.  It  is  situated  upon  the 
Eastside  of  the  river  of  Cree  one  mile  distant  to  the  south  from 
the  town  of  Monnygaffe,  and  here  is  the  first  foord  of  the 
water  of  Cree  except  that  betwixt  Kirkmabreck  and  Wigton  of 
which  more  hereafter.  This  foord  is  five  miles  or  thereby  in 
recta  linea  to  the  Northward  distant  from  Vigton.  In  the  85. 
moors  of  this  parish  of  Monnygaffe  not  many  years  since,  at  a 
place  called  La  Spraig,  not  far  from  the  water  of  Munnach, 
but  sixteen  miles  distant  from  the  sea,  there  fell  a  shower  of 
herring,  which  were  seen  by  creditable  persons,  who  related 
the  story  to  me,  some  of  the  said  herring  were  as  I  am  in- 
formed, taken  to  the  Earl  of  Galloways  house  and  shown  to 
him. 

These  twentie  eight  parishes  viz.  1.  Traqueer,  2  New 
Abbey,  3  Kirkbeen,  4  Cowend  including  also  Southwick,  5 
OIT,  6  Kirkpatrick  Durham,  7  Kirkpatrick  iron  Gray,  8 
Terregles,  9  Lochmiton,  10  Kirkgunnion,  11  Kirkcudburgh 
including  also  Galtway  and  Dunrod,  12  Rerick  or  Monkton,or 
Dundranen,  13  Bootle,  14  Kelton  including  also  Gelston  and 
Kirkcormock,  15  Corsemichael,  16  Partan,  17  Balmaclellan,  18 
Dairy,  19  Corsefairne,  20  Kells,  21  Balmaghie,  22  Tongueland, 
23  Twynam  including  also  Kirkchrist,  24  Borgue  including 
also  Kirkanders  and  Sennick,  25  Girthon,  26  Anwoth,  27 
Kirkmabreck  or  Ferriton,  including  also  Kirkdale,  28  Monny- 
gaffe, are  lyable  to  the  Stewart  of  Kirkcudburgh  which  Office 
belongs  heritably  to  the  Earl  of  Nithisdale,  and  is  at  present 
by  reason  of  the  minority  of  the  present  Earl,  exercM  by  Sir 
Robert  Grierson  of  Lag,  who  keeps  his  head  court  at  the  town 
of  Kirkcudburgh,  and  his  ordinary  Courts  there  also,  ether  by 
himselfe  or  his  deputs  for  administrating  of  Justice  on  every 
except  in  vacation  time.  For  the  benefit  of  the 


72  •  WIGTON 

ten  Kirks  beneath  Orr,  he  hath  also  a  deput  who  keeps  courts 
at  Lochruton. 

The  Stewartry  of  Kirkcudburgh,  although  exceeding  the 
shire  of  Vigton  both  in  bounds  and  valuation,  sends  only  one 
Commissioner  to  the  Parliament  or  Convention  of  Estates. 
But  it  is  now  high  time  I  suppose  that  we  crosse  the  river  of 
Cree  and  go  to  the  Shire  of  Vigton. 

The  Shire  of  Wigton  is  bounded  on  the  East  with  the 
Stewartry  of  Kirkcudburgh  and  parted  from  it  by  the  river 
8v.  of  Cree.  On  the  South  West  and  Northwest  it  is  environed 
with  the  sea.  On  the  North  it  is  bounded  partly  with  Carrict ; 
and  partly  with  the  Stewartry  of  Kirkcudburgh  viz.  at  or 
toward  the  head  of  Monnvgaffe,  being  parted  therefrom  also 
with  the  river  of  Cree,  which  towards  the  head  bends  some- 
thing to  the  Westward. 

The  shire  of  Vigton  extends  in  length  viz.  from  the  toun  of 
Vigton,  to  the  point  of  the  Mule  of  Galloway,  twentie  eight 
or  thirty  miles,  or  rather  counting  from  the  brink  of  the  river 
of  Cree,  at  the  Ferriton,  it  will  be  about  thirty  four  miles  in 
length.  As  for  the  breadth  of  it,  from  the  Isle  of  Whithorn 
to  the  borders,  of  Carrick  it  will  be  more  than  twentie  miles, 
although  in  some  other  parts  of  the  Shire,  the  breadth  will 
not  be  so  much. 

The  Shire  of  Wigton  contains  in  it  sixteen  principal 
parishes  viz. — 

1.  Vigton.  The  Earl  of  Galloway  is  patron.  It  is  a 
Parsonage  though  but  a  small  one.  It  is  bounded  on  the 
South  with  the  parish  of  Kirkinner  and  separated  from  it 
by  the  river  of  Blaidnoch.  On  the  West,  North  &  East 
it  is  surrounded  with  the  parish  of  Penigham,  and  separated 
therefrom  on  the  North  and  East,  with  a  Rivulet  called  Bishop- 
bourn,  which  empties  itself  into  the  river  of  Blaidnoch,  or 
Cree  on  the  sands  beneath  Wigton.  This  parish  hath  in  it  a 
burgh  royal  called  also  Wigton,  which  town,  as  the  Inhabitants 
say,  of  old  stood  more  than  a  mile  Eastward,  but  place  is  now 
covered  with  the  sea  every  tide,  however  this  is  certain  that 
of  old  it  was  called  Epiack  or  Epiacte.  A  friend  of  mine 
conjectures  and  doubtless  it  is  but  a  conjecture,  that  it  was 
so  called  from  Danewort  or  Dwarfe  elder  calFd  also  Chamiacte, 


WIGTON  73 

however  sure  I  am  this  herb  or  shrub,  call  it  as  you  please, 
grows  here  in  great  abundance  and  overspreads  much  of  their 
bear  land  on  the  South  East  part  of  the  town.  And  since 
we  are  speaking  of  an  herb,  I  think  fit  to  add  that  Henbane 
grows  also  very  plentifully  in  the  town  through  the  streets, 
and  upon  every  dunghill  there.  This  town  is  the  head  burgh 
of  the  shire  although  it  stands  at  the  Eastmost  end  thereof. 
Ships  of  two  hundred  Tun  may  come  neer  to  it  at  a  spring 
tide,  with  a  good  Pilot,  but  yet  it  hath  but  litle  trading  by  87. 
sea.  They  choose  annually  a  Provest,  two  Bay  lifts,  and  a 
Thesaurer,  with  severall  other  Counsellours.  Fryday  is  the 
day  of  their  town  Court.  It  is  a  Town  of  small  tradeing; 
their  market  day  is  Monday,  but  is  not  frequented ;  However 
they  have  four  yearly  faires,  which  are  considerable.  The  first 
is  calFd  the  Palm-fair,  which  begins  the  fifth  Monday  in  Lent 
and  lasts  two  days.  The  second  Midsummerfair,  or  rather 
St.  Albans  fair,  for  on  the  Sevnteenth  day  of  June,  St.  Albans 
day,  if  it  fall  upon  a  friday,  or  if  not  the  next  fryday  there- 
after, they  have  a  market  for  horses  and  young  Phillies,  which 
the  borderers  from  Annandale  and  places  thereabout,  (the  stile 
the  Countrey  calls  them  by,  is  Johnnies)  come  and  buy  in 
great  numbers.  The  Monday  and  tuesday  thereafter  they 
have  a  fair  frequented  by  merchants  from  Edinburgh,  Glasgow, 
Air  and  other  places,  who  her  buy  great  quantities  of  raw 
broad  cloath  and  transport  part  of  it  over  seas  and  part  of 
it  they  dy  at  home  and  sell  for  many  uses.  The  third  and 
greatest  fair  is  calTd  Lambmas  fair,  which  is  always  just  six 
weeks  distant  from  the  former,  for  on  the  fryday  before  the 
first  Monday  of  August,  they  have  another  market  for  horses, 
much  frequented  by  the  forsaid  Johnnies,  and  then  on  the 
next  Monday  and  tuesday  viz.  the  1st  Monday  and  tuesday 
of  August,  they  have  the  cloath  fair,  which  is  more  frequented 
then  the  Midsummer  fair,  both  by  buyers  and  sellers  because 
the  countrey  people  have  then  had  a  longer  time  to  work 
and  make  their  webbs  ready,  which  they  could  not  get  done 
at  the  former  fair ;  This  fair  is  so  considerable,  that  as  I  have 
been  informed,  no  fewer  than  eighteen  score  of  packs  of  Cloath 
have  been  sold  thereat.  The  fourth  is  their  Martinmas  fair, 
which  beginns  always  upon  the  first  Monday  of  Novr  and  so 


74  WIGTON 

every  thursday  thereafter  till  Christmas  they  have  a  Market 
for  fat  Kine ;  this  market  is  frequented  by  Butchers,  and  others 
from  Dumfreis  and  other  places  thereabout  for  four  or  five 
market  days  only,  for  in  that  time,  all  the  fattest  and  best 
kine  are  sold  and  gon.     This  town  of  Wigton  is  indifferently 
well  built,  with  pretty  good  houses  three  story  high  toward 
the  street,  especially  on  the  Northside.     The  street  is  very 
broad  and  large.     The  parish  Kirk  stands  a  litle  without  the 
East   port.     The  Tolbooth  standing  neer  the  middle  of  the 
town,  is  lately  beautify'd  with  a  Pyramis  erected  upon  a  square 
platforme,  upon  the  top  of  the  steeple,  set  round  with  pylasters, 
which  adds  a  fine  ornament  to  the  town.     This  town  stands 
very  pleasantly,  being  built  upon  a  large  and  fruitfull  hill  of 
an  easie  ascent  every  way.     On  the  Southeast  of  this  town, 
there  was  long  since  a  Friarie,  but  the  very  mines  therof  are 
now  allmost  ruined  ;  the  greatest  quantity  of  Agrimony  that  I 
ever  saw  in  one  place,  grows  about  this  Friarie.     In  this  town 
of  Wigton,  about  seaven   or  eight  years   since,  there  was  a 
woman  calPd  Margaret  Blain,  yet  living  there,  wife  to  John 
McCraccan,  a  taylor,  who  is  also  yet  living,  who  was  brought 
to  bed  of  three  children,  who  were  orderly  baptized,  having 
a  quarter  of  a  year  or  thereabout  before  that  miscarried  of 
another.     In   the   parish  there    are   no    considerable  Edifices 
except  one  viz.  Torhouse,  situated  on  the  Northside  of  the 
river   of  Blaidnoch,    and    belongs    to    George    McCulloch    of 
Torhouse ;  not  far  from  whose  house  in  the  high  way  betwixt 
Wigton    and    Portpatrick,   about   three    miles    Westward    of 
Wigton,  is  a  plaine  call'd  the  Moor,  or  Standing  Stones  of 
Torhouse ;  in  which  there  is  a  monument  of  three  large  whin 
stones,  calPd  King  Galdus's  tomb,  surrounded  at  about  twenty 
foot  distance,  with  nineteen   considerable  great  stones,  (but 
none  of  them  so  great  as  the  three  first  mentioned,)  erected 
in  a  circumference.     In  this  Moor  and  not  far  from  the  tomb, 
are  great  heaps  of  small   hand-stones,   which  the   Countrev 
people  call  Cairnes,  supposed  by  them  to  be  the  buriall  places 
of  the  common  souldiers.     As  also  at  severall  places  distant 
from  the  Monument  are   here  and  there  great   single  stones 
erected,  which  are  also  supposed  to  be  the  buriall  places  of 
his  Commanders  and  men  of  note,     but  herein  I  determine 


WIGTON— PENYGHAM  75 

nothing  only  I  think  fit  to  add,  that  at  several!  places  in 
this  Countrey  there  are  many  great  heaps  of  hand  stones,  89. 
caird  Cairnes,  and  those  heaps  or  Cairnes  of  stones  are  very 
seldom  single,  but  many  times  there  are  two  of  them,  and 
sometimes  moe,  not  far  distant  from  each  other.  This  place 
is  the  ordinary  randezvouse  of  the  militia  troop  which  belong 
to  the  shire.  This  parish  of  Wigton  is  almost  equal  in 
breadth  and  length  being  about  three  miles  and  an  half 
extent  every  way. 

2.  Penygham.  The  Earl  of  Galloway  is  patron  of  this 
parish  Kirk,  which  is  about  four  miles  Northward  distant  from 
the  town  of  Wigton  and  therefore  here  again  we  may  take 
notice  of  a  mistake  in  Speeds  Map,  which  placeth  Penygham 
neer  the  sea  beyond  Whithern,  to  the  Southward  of  Vigton 
about  nine  or  ten  miles.  This  parish  of  Penygham  is  bounded 
on  the  East,  partly  with  the  parish  of  Kirk  Mcbrek  and  partly 
with  the  parish  of  Monygaffe,  and  parted  also  from  it  by 
the  river  of  Cree.  On  the  Northwest  it  is  bounded  with  the 
parish  of  Cammonell  in  Carrick,  On  the  West  with  the  parish 
of  Kirkcowan  and  divided  therefrom  by  the  river  of  Blaidnoch. 
On  the  Southwest  it  runs  out  in  a  point,  which  point  is  on 
the  East  bounded  with  the  parish  of  Vigton,  and  on  the  South 
part  of  it,  parted  from  the  parish  of  Kirkenner  by  the  river 
of  Blaidnoch.  The  parish  of  Penygham  is  bounded  on  the 
South  and  Southeast  with  the  parish  of  Vigton  and  parted 
from  it  by  a  rivulet  called  the  Bishops  bourn.  This  parish  of 
Penygham  is  in  length  twelve  miles,  in  breadth  more  than 
four,  the  farthest  part  of  it  is  nines  miles  distant  from  the 
parish  Church.  It  was  of  old  the  Residence  of  the  Bishop  of 
Galloway,  who  hath  yet  a  Jurisdiction  here,  called  the  Lord- 
ship of  Penigham  comprehending  such  lands,  as  in  this  parish 
hold  of  the  Bishop  of  Galloway.  The  Earl  of  Cassillis  is 
heretable  Bayly  of  this  Jurisdiction.  There  is  at  present  a 
Bell  at  the  Church  of  Penigham  with  this  Inscription  in  Saxon 
letters  Campana  Sancti  Niniani  de  Penygham  M.  dedicat  as 
it  seems  to  Saint  Ninian  in  the  thousand  year  after  the  birth 
of  Christ.  There  is  a  ruinous  chapel  in  this  parish  called  the  90. 
chapel  of  the  Cruives,  situated  on  the  Westside  of  the  river  of 
Cree,  four  miles  distant  from  the  parish  Kirk,  which  was  long 


76  PENYGHAM 

since  appropriated  for  divine  service,  but  now  ruinous.     The 
.     principal  Edifices  in  this  parish  are,  1  The  Clary ;  the  Earl 
of  Galloway  his  winter  residence,  distant  a  short  half  mile 
from   the  Kirk,   in  the  way  to  Wigton.     2  Castle  Stewart, 
distant  about  four  miles  from  the  Kirk  towards  the  North  in 
the  way  to  the  town  of  Air.     It  is  the  residence  of  William 
Stewart  of  Castle  Stewart,  youngest  brother  to  the  present 
Earl   of  Galloway  belonging  to  him   in   right  of  his  Lady, 
Grandchild    to   that   expert   and   valiant   Collonell,   William 
Stewart  of  Castle  Stewart  a  valiant  and  fortunat  souldier  in 
the  German  Warrs,  under  the  command  of  Gustavus  Adolphus 
King  of  Sweden  :    of  this  Collonell  Stewarts  Lady,  Grand- 
mother to  the  present  Lady  Castle  Stewart,  I  have  heard  a 
strange  passage,  which  I  think   fit  to  insert  viz.     The  said 
Lady,  before  her  husband  went  to  the  wars,  one  day  combing 
her  hair  in  the  sun,  her  sight  wholly  departed  from  her,  after 
which  her  husband  betook  himselfe  to  the  wars  in  Germany 
and  was  there  advanced  to  be  a  Collonell,  his  Lady  in  the 
mean  time  remaining  at  home  blind,  at  length  she  resolves 
blind  as  she  was  to  visit  her  husband  and  taking  a  servant 
with   her,  took   shipping   for  Holland,  from  whence,  after  a 
tedious  journey,  she  came  to  Germany  and  enquiring  for  the 
army  and   among  them   for  the  Scots  Regiments   met  there 
with   her  husband,  who  own'd  and  receav'd  her.     The  Lady 
being  there,  and  some  say  seaven  yeares  after  her  blindness, 
combing  her  hair,  some  report  in  the  sun  also,  yea  and  the 
same  day  of  the  month  that  it  departed  from  her,  her  sight 
was  restored  as  perfectly  as  at  the  first.     The  truth  of  this 
story  in  all  its  circumstances  I  do  not  assert,  but  only  relate 
it  as  I  heard  it,  however  this  is  most  certain,   that  by   her 
91.  being  with  him  in  Germany,  she  so  managed  what  was  acquired 
there,   that   with  it  he  purchast  a  fair  Estate  in   Galloway 
possessed   at   present   by   her  grandchild.     And   since   I   have 
related  a  passage  (as  I  have   heard  it)  of  the  wife,  Fie  add  a 
passage  of  the  husband,  of  the  which  a  very  judicious  person 
assures   me   he   was  an    eye    witness  viz.    The  said  Collonell 
Stewart  being  at  home  here  in  Galloway,  was  affected  with  a 
palsie  for  the  space  of  about  a  year  and  an  halfe,  which  affected 
the  one  side  from  head  to  foot,  (occasioned  perhaps  through 


PENYGHAM— KIRKINNER  77 

loss  of  blood  in  the  warrs)  and  yet  he  fell  into  a  most  violent 
feaver,  which  affected  the  other  side  only  ;  he  recovered  of  the 
feaver  in  a  months  time  or  thereby  and  lived  neer  two  years 
after  that,  but  the  palsie  continued  till  his  dying  day.  The 
Minister  of  Penygham  assures  me  also  that  there  is  a  Gentle- 
woman at  present  living  in  his  parish,  that  for  a  long  time 
hath  had  the  palsie  on  the  one  side,  and  lately  had  a  violent 
feaver  on  the  other  side,  out  of  which  feaver  she  is  now 
recovered,  her  palsie  remaining.  3.  Glasnick.  The  Residence 
of  James  Gordon  younger  of  Craichlaw.  this  house  stands  on 
the  East  side  of  the  river  of  Blaidnoch,  and  is  distant  about 
three  miles  from  the  parish  Kirk  to  the  Westward.  4  The 
Grainge  belonging  heritably  to  John  Gordon  of  Grainge.  This 
house  stands  upon  the  North  and  East  side  of  the  river 
Blaidnock  neer  a  flexure  of  the  said  River,  and  is  distant  about 
three  miles  from  the  parish  Kirk  to  the  South  west  ward. 

These  two  parishes  of  Wigton  and  Penygham  are  almost 
environed  with  the  rivers  of  Cree  and  Blaidnoch,  both  which 
Rivers  after  severall  windings  and  turnings  meet  together  a 
litle  below  Vigton  and  there  empty  themselves  into  the  sea. 

3.  Kirkinner.  This  parish  Kirk  is  about  two  miles  distant 
from  Wigton  Southward.  The  patronage  of  this  parish  of 
Kirkinner  is  controverted.  The  Laird  of  Bambarroch  claimes  92. 
it  by  vertue  of  a  gift  from  King  James  the  Sixth  to  his  Great 
Grandfather  Sir  Patrick  Vaus  who  was  also  one  of  the  Lords 
of  the  Session,  and  was  sent  to  Denmark  to  wait  upon  Queen 
Anne.  The  subdean  of  his  Majesties  Chapel  Royall  claimes 
it  as  titular  of  the  teinds  of  the  said  Parish.  This  parish  of 
Kirkinner  hath  another  little  parish  called  Long  Castle  annext 
thereto,  where  was  a  little  church  for  divine  service,  about 
two  miles  and  an  halfe  distant  from  the  Kirk  of  Kirkinner 
to  the  Westward  in  the  way  to  the  Kirk  of  Mochrum,  but 
now  the  said  Kirk  of  Longcastle  is  ruinous.  In  this  parish  of 
Longcastle,  at  a  place  called  Cairnfeild,  there  is  a  monument, 
almost  like  that  call'd  Galdus  tomb  in  the  parish  of  Vigton, 
but  it  consists  not  of  so  good  stones,  nor  yet  placed  in  so 
good  order.  The  parish  of  Kirkinner  with  Longcastle  annexed 
thereto,  is  bounded  on  the  East  with  the  parish  of  Kirk- 
mahreck  and  separated  therefrom  by  the  river  of  Cree  and 


78  KIRKINNER 

the  large  sands  of  Kirkinner.  On  the  South  it  is  partly 
bounded  with  the  parish  of  Sorbie,  and  partly  with  the 
parish  of  Glasserton,  from  which  last  parish  it  is  in  part 
separated  by  the  Loch  of  Longcastle  called  on  the  other  side 
the  Loch  of  Ravinston.  On  the  West  it  is  bounded  with  the 
parish  of  Mochrum.  On  the  Northwest  with  the  parish  of 
Kirkcowan.  On  the  North  it  is  in  a  litle  part  only  bounded 
with  the  parish  of  Penygham,  and  for  the  other  parts  bounded 
with  the  parish  of  Vigton,  from  both  which  parishes  it  is 
separated  by  the  river  of  Blaidnoch.  In  this  parish  of  Kirk- 
inner  Sir  David  Dunbar  of  Baldone  hath  a  park  about  two 
miles  and  an  half  in  length  and  ane  mile  and  an  half  in 
breadth,  the  greatest  part  whereof  is  rich  and  deep  valley 
ground  and  yeilds  excellent  grass.  Upon  the  Northside,  it 
is  separated  from  the  parish  of  Vigton  by  the  river  of 
Blaidnoch.  On  the  Eastside  it  lyes  open  to  the  sea  sands 
.  which  at  low  water  will  be  about  two  miles  betwixt  the 
bank  of  the  said  Park  and  the  chanel  of  the  river  of  Cree, 
which  divides  it  from  the  parish  of  Kirkmabreck  in  the 
Stewartry.  This  park  can  keep  in  it  winter  and  summer 
about  a  thousand  bestiall,  part  of  which  he  buys  from  the 
countrey,  and  grazeth  there  all  winter,  other  part  whereof  is 
of  his  own  breed,  for  he  hath  neer  two  hundred  milch  kine 
which  for  the  most  have  calves  yearly,  he  buys  also  in  the 
summer  time  from  the  countrey  many  bestiall,  oxen  for  the 
most  part  which  he  keeps  till  August  or  September,  so  that 
yearly  he  ether  sells  at  home  to  drovers,  or  sends  to  Saint 
Faiths,  Satch  and  other  fairs  in  England  about  eighteen  or 
twentie  score  of  bestiall.  Those  of  his  own  breed,  at  four 
year  old  are  very  large,  yea  so  large  that  in  August  or 
September  1632  nine  and  fifty  of  that  sort,  which  would  have 
yeilded  betwixt  five  and  six  pound  sterling  the  peice ;  were 
seiz'd  upon  in  England  for  Irish  cattell  and  because  the  person 
to  whom  they  were  entrusted,  had  not  witnesses  there  ready 
at  the  precise  hour  to  swear  that  they  were  seen  calved  in 
Scotland,  (though  the  witness  offered  to  depone  that  he  liv'd 
in  Scotland  within  a  mile  of  the  Park  where  they  were  calvM 
and  bred)  they  were  by  the  sentence  of  Sir  J  L  and  some 
others  who  knew  well  enough  that  they  were  bred  in  Scotland, 


KIRKINNER  79 

knockt  on  the  head  and  kilFd ;  which  was  to  say  no  more, 
very  hard  measure,  and  an  act  unworthy  of  persons  of  that 
quality  and  station  who  ordered  it  to  be  done. 

On  the  bank  of  this  Park,  that  lyes  opposit  to  the  sea,  if 
there  be  in  the  winter  time  any  high  tides  and  storms  from 
the    South   East,    the  sea   casts    innumerable  and   incredible 
quantities  of  Cockleshells,  which  the  whole  shire  makes  use 
of  for   lime   and    it    is  the   onely  lime   which  this  countrey 
affoords.     The  way  of  making  it  is  thus ;  Upon  an  even  Area, 
(the  circumference  they  make  less  or  more  according  to  the 
quantity  of  the  shells  they  intend  to  burne)  they  set  erected  94. 
peits,  upon  which  they  put  a    layer   of  shells  a  foot  thick 
or  more,  and  then   upon  them  again  lay  peits,  though  not 
erected  as  at  first,  and  then   another  layer  of  shells  and  so 
SSS l  till  they  bring  it  to  an  head  like  a  pyramis,  but  as  they 
put  on  these  layers  just  in  the  center  they  make  a  tunnell  of 
peits,  like  a  chimney   hollow  in   the  middest  reaching  from 
the  bottom  to  the  top,  (just  almost  as  Evelyn  describes  the 
making  of  charcoal)  this  done  they  take  a  pan  full  of  burning 
peits,  and  put  them  down  into  this  tunnel  or  chimney  and  so 
close  up  all  with  shells.     This  fire  kindles  the  whole  kilne 
-and  in  24  hours  space  or  thereby  will  so  burn  the  shells  that 
they  will  run  together  in  a  hard  masse,  after  this  they  let  it 
cool  a  litle,  and  then  with  an  iron  spade  they  bring  it  down 
by  degrees  and  sprinkling  water  thereon,  with  a  beater  they 
beat  it,  [or  berry  it,  for  that's  their  terme ;  this  word  they 
also  use  for  threshing  and  so  call  the  thresher  of  their  corne, 
the  berrier]  and  then  put  it  so  beaten  into  litle  heaps,  which 
they  press  together  with  the  broad  side  of  their  spade,  after 
which  in  a  short  time  it  will  dissolve,  [they  call  it  melting] 
into   a  small   white    powder    and    it    is    excellent   lime.       I 
have    heard   good    masons  say  that  as   it  is   whiter,   so  also 
it   binds   stones  together   surer  and   better  than   stone  lime 
itself. 

When  the  tide  is  ebbing  from  these  banks,  severall  of  the 
countrey  people  in  summer  and  harvest  time  use  to  go  a  fishing 
with  the  halfe  net :  the  forme  and  use  whereof  take  as  follows. 
They  take  four  peeces  of  Oake,  Alder  or  Willow,  about  three 


' Stratum  super  stratum'  interlined. — ED. 


80  KIRKINNER 

Inches  diameter  which  they  contrive  almost  into  the  forme  of  a 
semicircle  about  fourteen  or  fifteen  foot  diameter  at  the  points 

and  about  five  or  six  feetDiameter 
the  other  way,  with  aBalk  athwart 
to  keep  all  firme.  These  four 
peeces  of  timber  they  nail  fast 
together  after  this  forme  putting 
also  three  or  four  lesser  cross 
peeces  of  timber  to  make  it  more 
95.  firm.  To  this  they  fasten  a  net 

much  wider  than  the  stales  (For 
so  they  term  the  frame  of  timber,). 

With  this  at  the  ebbing  of  the  tide,  they  go  into  the  water, 
till  it  comes  up  to  their  breast,  and  sometimes  to  their 
shoulders,  and  turning  their  faces  towards  the  streame,  put  the 
stale  points  to  the  ground,  so  that  the  net  being  large  and 
wide,  is  carried  by  the  streame  on  ether  side ;  from  each 
corner  of  the  net,  they  have  a  warning  string  comeing  which 
they  hold  in  their  hand,  which  gives  them  warning,  when  the 
least  fish  comes  in  the  net,  and  then  presently  they  pull  the 
stale  points  from  the  ground,  which  are  instantly  wafted  to  the 
top  of  the  water,  and  so  catch  the  fish.  By  this  means,  they 
catch  Fleuks,  solefleuks,  tarbets  and  severall  other  fish,  yea 
and  oftentimes  many  salmon  too  :  and  thus  they  continue  till 
low  water,  moving  allways  farther  and  farther,  as  the  water 
ebbs,  and  then  when  the  tide  turns,  they  turn  about  to  the 
stream,  and  do  as  formerly.  The  principall  Edifices  in  this 
parish  of  Kirkinner  are  1,  Barnbarroch  the  residence  of  John 
Vaus  of  Barnbarroch,  it  lys  about  a  mile  from  the  Kirk  to  the 
westward.  2,  Bildone.  The  residence  of  Sir  David  Dunbar 
of  Baldone,  Knight  Baronet,  it  is  seated  in  the  Park  and  will 
be  about  a  short  mile  from  the  Kirk  to  the  northward  towards 
the  towne  of  Wigton.  The  whole  parish  of  Kirkinner,  the 
annext  parish  of  Longcastle  being  included,  is  about  four 
miles  and  an  halfe  in  length  and  about  as  much  in  breadth  : 
the  farthest  part  from  the  Kirk  will  be  about  three  miles  and 
an  halfe.  This  parish  of  Kirkinner  (viz.  about  the  Kirk  there 
being  neer  halfe  a  score  of  excellent  spring  wells  hard  by  it 
and  in  the  Park)  is  accounted  the  best  place  hereabout  for 


SORBIE  81 

fowling  in  the  winter  time,  having  then  in  it  great  abundance 
of  wild  geese  wild  ducks  Teales  Woodcocks  &c. 

4.  Sorbie.     The  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  patron  of  this  parish 
Kirk.     The  distance  of  which  from  the  town  of  Wigton  is 
about  five  short  miles  to  the  Southward,  the  Kirkinner  being 
in  the  high  way  (and  almost  of  an   equall  distance)  betwixt 
them.     This  parish   of  Sorbie   hath   two   other  litle  parishes 
united  to  it,  viz.  Kirkmadroyn  lying  on  the  sea,  Eastward,  but 
the   Kirk  is  ruinous,  and  Crugleton,  lying  also  towards  the 
Sea  more  southwards,  the  Kirk  thereof  is  also  ruinous.     The  96. 
parish  of  Sorbie  the  saids  two  annexed  Kirks  being  included,  is 
bounded  on  the  North  with  Kirkinner,  on  the  East,  Southeast 
and  South  with  the  sea,  on  the  South  and  Southwest  with  the 
parish    of   Whitherne,    on    the    West    with    the    parish    of 
Glasserton.    The  parish  of  Sorbie  with  the  two  annext  parishes 
will  be  in  length  scarce  four  miles,  and  in  breadth  about  three 
miles,  the  farthest  part  whereof  will  not  be  much  above  two 
miles  distant  from  the  parish  Kirk.     There  is  only  one  prin- 
cipall  Edifice  in  this  parish,  calPd  the  place  of  Sorbie,  seated 
about  halfe  a  mile  from  the  Kirk  to  the  East  thereof.     It  is 
a  very  good  house,  'twas  built  by  the  Laird  of  Sorbie,  whose 
name  was  then  Hannay,  a  name  very  common  in  Galloway, 
but  not  any  man  now  of  note  of  that  name  in  this  countrey. 
This  house  now  appertaines  to  the  Earl  of  Galloway.     In  the 
parish  of  Kirkmadroyne  there  is  a  place  called  Inderwell,  to 
which  ships   may  have  recourse  in  time  of  storme.     In  the 
parish  of  Crugleton  there  was  long  since  upon  an  high  cliffe 
on  the  sea    side,  a  very  strong  house  called   the   Castle  of 
Crugleton  but   it   is   now   wholly  demolished  and  ruinous,  it 
appertaines  to  Sir  Andrew  Agnew  of  Lochnaw.     In  this  parish 
of  Cruglton  there  is  also  a  Bay  call'd  Polton,  whereat  in  the 
Months  of  July,  August  and  September,  there  uses  to  be  a 
herring  fishing  ;  in  some  years  they  are  so  plentifull,  that  they 
are  sold  for  five  groats  or  two  shillings  the  Maze  (each  Maze 
containes  five  hundred,  at  sixscore  to  the  hundred),  and  some- 
times cheaper.     But  it  is  only  in  some  yeares  that  this  plenty 
happens  and  I  have  heard  some  people  say,  that  it  seldome 
comes  to  pass  that  the  sea  and  land  are  plentifull  in  one  and 
the  same  year. 

VOL.  II.  F 


82  WHITHERNE 

5.  Whitherne.      This  Kirk    lyes   about  eight    miles   from 
Wigton  Southward  and  about  three  miles  from  the  Kirk  of 
Sorbie.     The   Bishop    of  Galloway    is   patron   hereof.     This 
parish  is  bounded  on  the  South  with   the  sea,  on  the  West 
with  the  parish  of  Glasserton,  on  the  North,  Northeast,  and 
east  with  the  parish  of  Sorbie,  the  baronie  of  Broughton  in 
this  parish  of  Whitherne  running  out  in  a  point,  betwixt  the 
two  kirks  of  Sorbie  and  Crugleton.     The  parish  of  Whiteherne 
is  in  length  about  four  miles  and  an  halfe,  in  breadth  not  so 
97.  much.     The  furthest  parts  will   be  but  two  miles  from  the 
Kirk.     In  this  parish  there  is  a  burgh  royall  called  Whit- 
herne (from  whence  the  parish  hath  its  name)  Candida  casa, 
or  White-herne,    Herne   signifying   a  cottage   in   the    Saxon 
language.     They  choose  annually  a  Provest,  two  Baylies  and 
a  Treasurer  (but  there  is  litle  use  for  him)  with  severall  other 
Councellours.     their  market  day  is  Saturday,  but  it  is  not  at 
all  frequented.     It  is  a  town  of  little  or  no  trade  at  present, 
although  of  old  it  was  a  town  of  great  trade,  and  resort ;  they 
have  a  very  advantageous  Port  belonging  to  them,  calPd  the 
Isle  of  Whiteherne :  two  miles  distant  from  the  town  South- 
wards :  in  which  ships  of  great  burthen  may  be  in  safety  in 
time  of  any  storme.     There  was  in  this  town  a  famous  Priory  ; 
and  a  stately  church  founded  by  St.  Ninian  and  dedicated  by 
him  to  his  Unckle  St.  Martin  Bishop  of  Tours  in  France  as 
I  have  heard  it  reported.     Sure  I  am  there  is  a  little  hand- 
bell in  this  church,  which  in  Saxon  letters  tells  it  belongs  to 
Saint  Martins  Church.     The  Steeple  and  body  of  the  church 
is  yet  standing,  together  with  some  of  the  walls  of  the  pre- 
cincts.    The   Isles,  Cross   Church    and    severall   other   houses 
belonging  thereto  are  fallen,  but  severall  large  and  capacious 
vaults  are  firme  &  entire.     The  Bishop  of  Galloway  as  Prior 
of  Whitherne,  hath  here  a  Regality  comprehending  not  only 
the  lands  about  Whithern  and  other  adjacent  parishes  holding 
of  the  Prior,  but  also  all  the  Priors  other  lands  which  were 
many  in  Carrick,  Argyle  and  severall  other  places.     The  Earl 
of  Galloway  is  heritable  Bayly  of  this  Regality.     It  was  in 
this  town  of  Whitherne  that  Patrick  Makelwian  Minister  of 
Lesbury  in  Northumberland  was  borne,     a  wonderfull  old  man. 
concerning  whom   you   may  have  this  account  from  a  letter 


WHITHERNE  83 

under  his  own  hand  dated  from  Lesbury  Octob.  19.  1657.  to 
one  William  Lialkub  a  citizen  of  Antwerp,  which  Plempius 
[as  is  recorded  by  Nathan  Wanely  in  his  book  intituled  the 
Wonders  of  the  litle  World  lib.  1,  cap.  32]  saith  he  saw  under 
his  own  hand,  wherein  after  he  had  declared  that  he  had  lived  98. 
Minister  of  Lesbury  for  fifty  years,  he  gives  this  account  of 
himself:  I  was,  saith  he,  born  at  Whithorn  in  Galloway  in 
Scotland  in  the  year  1546,  bred  up  in  the  Universitie  of  Edin- 
burgh where  I  commenced  Master  of  Arts  whence  travelling 
into  England  I  kept  school  and  sometimes  preach'd  till  in  the 
first  of  King  James  I  was  inducted  into  the  Church  of  Lesbury 
where  I  now  live.  As  to  what  concerns  the  change  of  my 
body,  it  is  now  the  third  year  since  I  had  two  new  teeth  one 
in  my  upper,  and  the  other  in  my  nether  jaw,  as  is  apparent 
to  the  touch.  My  sight  much  decayed  many  years  agoe,  is 
now  about  the  hundred  and  tenth  year  of  my  age,  become 
clearer;  hair  adorns  my  heretofore  balPd  skull.  I  was  never 
of  a  fat,  but  of  a  slender  mean  habit  of  body ;  my  diet  has 
been  moderat,  nor  was  I  ever  accustomed  to  feasting  and 
tipling ;  hunger  is  the  best  sauce ;  nor  did  I  ever  use  to  feed 
to  satiety.  All  this  is  most  certain  and  true  which  I  have 
seriously,  though  over  hastily  confirmed  to  you  under  the 
hand  of 

Patrick  MakelWian. 

Minister  of  Lesbury. 

Thomas  Atkins  in  his  letter  dated  Sept.  28,  1657,  [recorded 
by  Nathan  Wanely  (ibid)  from  Fullers  Worthies],  declares  that 
upon  a  Sunday  he  heard  this  old  man  pray  and  preach,  about 
an  hour  and  an  halfe  making  a  good  sermon  on  Seek  ye  the 
kingdome  of  God  and  all  things  shall  be  added  unto  you,  and 
went  clearly  through  without  the  help  of  any  notes,  having 
first  read  some  part  of  the  common  prayer,  some  of  holy 
Davids  psalms,  and  two  chapters  one  out  of  the  old  and  the 
other  out  of  the  New  testament,  without  the  use  of  spectacles, 
the  bible  out  of  which  he  read  the  chapters,  being  a  very  small 
printed  Bible.  After  sermon  the  said  Thomas  Atkins  went 
with  him  to  his  house  who  told  him  that  his  hair,  (taking  off 
his  cap  and  shewing  it)  came  again  like  a  childs,  but  rather 
flaxen  than  ether  brown  or  grey,  that  he  had  three  teeth  come 


84  WHITHERNE 

within  these  two  years,  not  yet  to  their  perfection;  while  he 
99.  bred  them  he  was  very  ill.  Fourty  years  since  he  could  not 
read  the  biggest  print  without  spectacles  and  now  he  blesseth 
God,  there  is  no  print  so  small  no  written  hand  so  small,  but 
he  can  read  it  without  them  :  for  his  strength  he  thinks  him- 
self as  strong  now  as  he  hath  been  these  twenty  years.  Not 
long  since  he  walked  to  Alnwick  to  dinner  and  back  again  six 
North  countrey  miles :  he  is  now  an  hundred  and  ten  years  of 
age,  and  ever  since  last  May  a  hearty  body,  very  cheerfull  and 
stoops  very  much;  he  had  five  children  after  he  was  eighty 
years  of  age ;  four  of  them  lusty  lasses,  now  living  with  him, 
the  other  died  lately  ;  his  wife  yet  hardly  fifty  years  of  age. 

As  for  this  old  man,  he  was  born  in  Whithern  as  said  is,  and 
hath  some  of  his  relations  living  there  at  present,  there  is  one 
of  his  relations  for  the  present  serving  the  Laird  of  Barn- 
barroch  in  the  parish  of  Kirkinner.  The  name  they  are  callVi 
by  in  Galloway  is  MickleWayen,  which  according  to  the  true 
Irish  Orthographic  should  be  MacgillWian  ;  for  surnames  that 
in  Galloway  begin  with  or  are  commonly  pronounced  Mai  or 
Makel  or  Mackle  or  Mickle  (all  which  severall  ways  they  are 
oftimes  both  written  and  pronounced)  should,  as  I  am  in- 
formed by  an  ingenious  man  that  exactly  understands  the 
Irish  language,  be  written  Mac-gill,  as  Mac-gillmein,  McGillroy, 
Mcgill-raith,  names  frequent  in  Galloway  and  commonly  pro- 
nounced Malmein,  Malroy  or  Mickleroy,  or  Mickleraith  &c. 
Principal  Edifices  in  this  parish  of  Whitherne  are  1.  Broughton 
about  two  miles  distant  from  the  Kirk  and  town  towards  the 
North  East.  This  house  belongs  to  Richard  Murray  of 
Broughton.  £  Castle  Wig  more  than  a  mile  distant  from  the 
Kirk  towards  the  North.  It  pertaines  to  William  Agnew  of 
Wigg.  3.  The  Isle,  a  good  stone  house  on  the  seaside  just 
beside  the  sea  port  of  Whitherne  called  the  Isle  of  Whithern, 
two  miles  towards  the  South  from  the  Kirk,  this  house  belongs 
to  Patrick  Huston  of  Drummaston.  Neer  to  this  place  at  the 
seaside  there  is  the  ruines  of  an  old  chapel  called  the  chapel  of 
the  Isle,  which  as  it  is  reported,  was  the  first  that  was  built  for 
the  service  of  Almighty  God,  in  this  part  of  the  kingdom, 
100.  yea,  as  some  say,  in  the  whole  Kingdome.  There  is  also  in 
this  parish  of  Whitherne,  a  bailirie  called  the  Bailirie  of 


GLASSERTON  85 

Busby,  holding  of  the  Bishop  of  Dumblaine  as  Dean  to  his 
Majesties  chapel  royall,  whereof  William  Huston  of  Colr'eoch 
is  Heritable  Bayly.  As  also  another  Baylerie  called  the 
Baylyrie  of  Drummaston  whereof  Sir  Andrew  Agnew  of  Loch- 
naw  is  heritable  Bayly.  On  whom  it  depends  I  do  not  well 
know,  however  the  Minister  of  Portpatrick  as  Commendator 
of  Soulseat  [of  which  more  hereafter]  pretends  right  thereto. 

6.  Glasserton  commonly  called  Glaston.  The  Bishop  of 
Galloway  is  patron  of  it.  The  Kirk  of  Glaston,  being  a  large 
mile  to  the  Westward  of  Whi theme,  will  be  about  nine  miles 
distant  from  the  toun  of  Wigton  towards  the  South  west.  This 
parish  of  Glaston  hath  on  the  North  and  Northwest,  another 
parish  calFd  Kirkmaiden  annext  thereto,  on  the  west  end  of  which 
parish  is  a  ruinous  Kirk  calPd  Kirkmaiden  at  the  seaside  going 
down  a  cliff  and  stands  pretty  pleasantly,  it  is  the  buriall  place  of 
the  Maxwells  of  Muireith.  In  this  parish  of  Kirkmaiden,  there 
is  a  hill,  called  the  Fell  of  Barullion,  and  I  have  been  told,  but 
I  give  not  much  faith  to  it,  that  the  sheep  that  feed  there,  have 
commonly  yellow  teeth  as  if  they  were  guilded.  This  parish 
of  Glaston  or  Glasserton,  the  annext  parish  of  Kirkmaiden 
being  included,  is  bounded  on  the  South  and  West  with  the 
sea,  on  the  North  partly  with  the  parish  of  Mochrum,  and 
partly  with  the  parish  of  Longcastell,  annext  to  Kirkinner 
from  which  it  is  divided  in  part  with  the  Loch  calFd  on  this 
side  the  Loch  of  Remeston.  On  the  East  it  is  bounded  partly 
with  the  parish  of  Sorbie  and  partlie  with  the  parish  of  Whit- 
hern.  This  parish  of  Glaston,  the  annext  parish  of  Kirk- 
maiden being  included  is  about  five  miles  in  length,  and  about 
three  miles  in  breadth  the  farthest  part  of  the  parish  being- 
above  three  miles  distant  from  the  parish  Kirk.  The  prin- 
cipal Edifices  in  this  parish  are  1.  Glasserton  or  Glaston  the 
summer  Residence  of  the  Earl  of  Galloway  and  about  twelve 
or  thirteen  miles  distant  from  Clary  his  winter  Residence. 
This  house  it  is  about  a  bow  draught  to  the  West  from  the  201. 
Kirk  of  Glaston,  at  which  Kirk  there  is  a  vault  which  is  the 
burial  place  of  the  Earls  of  Galloway.  2.  Ravinstone  com- 
monly called  Remeston.  It  is  a  very  good  house  belonging  to 
Robert  Stewart  of  Ravinstone  second  brother  to  the  present 
Earl  of  Galloway.  It  lys  almost  thrie  miles  from  the  parish 
Kirk,  Northwards.  3.  Phisgill,  a  short  mile  distant  from  the 


86  GLASSERTON— MOCHRUM 

parish  Kirk  southwards  towards  the  sea.  It  pertaines  to  John 
Stewart  of  Phisgill  a  Cadet  of  the  Earl  of  Galloways  family. 
In  this  Gentlemans  land  under  a  cliff  at  the  seaside,  in  a  verv 
solitary  place,  there  is  a  litle  cave,  calPd  St.  Ninians  Cave,  to 
which,  as  they  say,  St.  Ninian  us'd  sometime  to  retire  himselfe 
for  his  more  secret  and  private  devotion.  4,  The  Mower. 
This  house  together  with  the  whole  parish  of  Kirkmaiden,  in 
which  parish  this  house  stands,  belongs  to  Sir  William  Max- 
well of  Muirreith.  It  is  a  mile  or  thereby  distant  from 
Ravinstone  Westward  and  about  three  miles  distant  from  the 
parish  Kirk  of  Glaston,  nether  is  the  way  thither  very  good. 

These  three  parishes  last  described,  viz.  Sorbie  including  the 
two  annext  parishes  of  Kirkmadroyn  and  Cruglton,  Whithern 
and  Glasserton  including  the  annext  parish  of  Kirkmaiden  to 
which  may  be  also  added  part  of  Kirkinner,  are  commonly  called 
the  Machirrs  or  Machirrs  of  Whithern,  which  word  Machirrs, 
as  I  am  informed,  imports  white  ground,  and  indeed  those 
parishes,  contain  by  far  much  more  arable  and  white  land, 
than  up  in  the  Moors,  though  the  parishes  there  be  much 
larger,  yea  if  I  count  aright,  the  parish  of  Monnygaffe  for 
bounds  will  be  larger  than  the  parishes  of  Kirkinner,  Sorbie. 
Whithern,  Glaston  and  perhaps  Mochrum  too. 

7.  Mochrum.  The  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  patron.  This 
parish  Kirk  lys  more  than  five  miles  to  the  Northwestward 
from  the  Kirk  of  Glaston,  four  miles  Westward  from  the  Kirk 
of  Kirkinner  and  six  miles  to  the  Southwest  from  the  town  of 
Wigton.  This  parish  of  Mochrum  is  bounded  on  the  East 
with  the  parish  of  Kirkinner.  On  the  South  with  the  parish 
of  Kirkmaiden  annext  to  Glaston.  On  the  West  the  sea,  On 
the  Northwest  with  the  parish  of  Glenluce,  on  the  North 
partly  with  the  parish  of  Glenluce  and  partly  with  the  parish 
of  Kirkcowand.  This  parish  of  Mochrum  is  about  eight  miles 
in  length,  and  but  three  miles  in  breadth  ;  the  farthest  part 
will  be  six  miles  distant  from  the  parish  kirk.  Principal 
Edifices  in  this  parish  are  1,  Myreton  pronounced  Merton,  the 
Residence  of  Sir  William  Maxwell  of  Muireith  and  lately 
bought  by  him  from  Sir  Godfrey  McCulloch  the  Cheife  of  the 
family  of  McCullochs.  Part  of  this  house  is  built  upon  a 
little  round  hillock  whereof  there  are  severall  artificial  ones  in 


MOCHRUM  87 

this  countrey  called  Motes  and  commonly  they  are  trenched 
about.  This  house  ly's  towards  the  South  a  large  mile  distant 
from  the  parish  Kirk,  it  hath  an  old  chapel  within  less  than 
a  bow  draughts  distance  from  it.  On  the  Northside  of  this 
house  and  hard  by  it,  is  the  White  Loch  of  Myrton,  but  why 
called  White  I  know  not,  except  as  Sir  William  Maxwell  in- 
forms me,  it  be  so  called  because  the  water  (as  he  saith)  hath 
this  property  that  it  will  wash  linnen  as  well  without  soap,  as 
many  others  will  do  with  it,  and  therefore  in  my  opinion,  it  is 
an  excellent  place  for  whitening  or  bleeching  of  Linnen,  holland 
and  Muzlin  Webbs.  This  Loch  is  very  famous  in  many 
writers,  who  report  that  it  never  freezeth  in  the  greatest 
frosts  ;  whether  it  had  that  vertue  of  old  I  know  not,  but  sure 
I  am  it  hath  not  now  for  this  same  year  it  was  so  hard  frozen 
that  the  heaviest  carriages  might  have  carried  over  it :  How- 
ever I  deny  not  but  the  water  thereof  may  be  medicinal, 
having  receaved  severall  credible  informations,  that  several! 
persons  both  old  and  young  have  been  cured  of  continued 
diseases  by  washing  therein,  yet  still  I  cannot  approve  of 
their  washing  three  times  therein,  which  they  say,  they  must 
do,  nether  the  frequenting  thereof  the  first  Sunday  of  the 
Quarter  viz.  the  first  Sunday  of  February,  May,  August  and 
Novr,  although  many  foolish  people  affirm  that  not  only  the 
water  of  this  Loch,  but  also  many  other  springs  and  wells 
have  more  vertue  on  those  days  than  any  other.  And  here 
again  we  may  take  notice  of  another  mistake  in  Speeds  lesser  ws. 
Map,  in  which  Loch  Merton  is  placed  betwixt  Cree  and 
lilaidnoch  the  ground  of  which  mistake  perhaps  hath  pro- 
ceeded from  a  Gentlemans  house  in  the  parish  of  Penygham 
lying  betwixt  Cree  and  Blaidnoch,  calPd  Merton,  but  there  is 
no  loch  thereabout  of  that  name.  2.  Mochrum.  A  good 
house  standing  in  the  Moors  towards  Kirkcowand,  it  stands 
betwixt  two  Lochs  and  is  about  five  miles  distant  from  the  Kirk 
of  Mochrum.  It  is  the  principal  Residence  of  James  Dunbar  of 
Mochrum.  3,  Ariullan  an  house  situated  neer  the  seaside, 
about  a  mile  and  an  halfe  Northwestwardly  from  the  Kirk  of 
Mochrum  in  the  way  from  the  Kirk  of  Mochrum  to  Glenluce. 
This  house  in  the  year  1679  appertained  to  Alexander  Hay 
of  Ariullan.  In  this  parish  of  Mochrum  under  the  cliffe  at 


88  KIRKCOWAN 

the  seaside  about  three  miles  distance  from  the  Kirk  in 
the  way  to  Glenluce,  is  a  little  ruinous  chapel  call\l  by  the 
Countrey  people  Chapel  Finzian. 

These  five  parishes  last  described  viz.  Kirkinner,  Sorbie, 
Whithern,  Glaston  and  Mochrum  are  all  situated  Southwards 
of  Blaidnoch  and  all  of  them  border  upon  the  sea. 

8.  Kirkcowan  pronounced  Kirkuan.  The  patronage  of  this 
parish  Kirk  is  the  same  with  that  of  Kirkinner,  to  it  is 
adjacent,  lying  about  six  miles  therefrom  towards  the  North- 
west. It  was  as  old  people  informe  me,  long  since  subjected  to 
the  care  of  the  Minister  of  Kirkinner,  who  preached  two 
Sundays  at  Kirkinner  and  the  third  at  Kirkuan.  This  parish 
of  Kirkcuan  is  about  ten  or  eleven  miles  in  length  and  about 
four  in  breadth,  the  farthest  part  of  this  parish  will  be  about 
seven  or  eight  miles  distant  from  the  parish  Kirk,  which  is 
distant  six  miles  towards  the  West  from  the  town  of  Wigton. 
This  parish  of  Kirkcuan  is  bounded  on  the  North  with  the 
parish  of  Cammonel  in  Carrick;  on  the  East  with  the  parish 
of  Penygham,  and  separated  from  it  with  the  river  of  Blaid- 
noch, on  the  SouthEast  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of 
Kirkinner,  on  the  South  with  the  parish  of  Mochrum.  On  the 
West  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of  Glenluce,  from  which  it 
104.  is  partly  separated  by  the  water  of  Tarffe,  which  beginning 
about  the  upper  end  of  this  parish  of  Kirkcuan,  divides  the 
same  from  the  parish  of  Glenluce  till  at  length  it  turnes  more 
Eastwardly  and  runs  through  part  of  this  parish  of  Kirkcuan, 
and  running  on  the  southside  of,  and  neer  to  the  said  Kirk, 
empties  itself  more  than  halfe  a  mile  beneath  the  same  into  the 
river  of  Blaidnoch.  There  is  but  one  house  of  note  in  this 
parish  viz.  Craichlaw.  A  good  house  situated  about  a  mile 
towards  the  West  from  the  Kirk,  and  is  the  Residence  of 
William  Gordon  of  Craichlaw. 

These  eight  parishes  last  described  viz.  Penygham,  Wigton, 
Kirkinner  with  Longcastle  annext  thereto,  Sorbie  with  Kirk- 
madroyn  and  Cruglton  annext  to  it,  Whitherne,  Glasserton 
with  Kirk  maiden  annext  thereto,  Mochrum  and  Kirkcowan  d 
in  the  shire  together  with  Monygaffe  in  the  Stewartry,  make 
up  the  Presbitry  of  Wigton,  another  of  the  Presbitries  per- 
taining to  the  Dioces  of  Galloway.  The  Ministers  of  the 


GLENLUCE  89 

Presbitry  meet  ordinarly  at  Wigton  once  a  month  upon  a 
Wednesday  and  oftener  as  they  find  occasion  for  exerceing  of 
Church  discipline  and  other  affair  appertaining  unto  them. 

9.  Glenluce  i.e.  vallis  lucis,  or  vallis  lucida,  a  pleasant 
valley,  for  such  it  is,  or  vallis  sancti  Lucae  or  Sanctce  Lucice ; 
which  of  these  I  shall  not  positively  determine,  but  however 
questionless  it  ought  to  be  spell'd  Glenluce,  and  not  Glenlus 
as  Speed  and  severall  others  spell  the  same.  It  is  a  large 
parish  being  bounded  on  the  East  with  the  parishes  of 
Kirkouan  and  Mochrum.  On  the  south  partly  with  the  sea, 
and  partly  with  the  parish  of  Stoniekirk  from  which  it  is 
separated  by  the  river  of  Poltanton.  On  the  West  with  the 
parish  of  the  Inch.  On  the  North  with  the  parish  of  Cam- 
moiiel  in  Carrick.  The  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  patron  of  this 
parish.  The  Kirk  is  twelve  miles  distant  from  Wigton, 
westward  in  the  way  from  thence  to  Stranrawer  which  is  six 
miles  farther  westward.  The  farthest  part  in  this  parish  is 
about  eight  or  nine  miles  distant  from  the  parish  Kirk.  In 
this  parish  about  halfe  a  mile  or  more  Northward  from  the 
parish  kirk,  is  the  Abbacy  of  Glenluce  situated  in  a  very 
pleasant  valley  on  the  Eastside  of  the  river  of  Luce,  the  105. 
steeple  and  part  of  the  walls  of  the  church  together  with  the 
Chapterhouse,  the  walls  of  the  Cloyster  the  gatehouse  with 
the  walls  of  the  large  precincts  are  for  the  most  part  yet 
standing.  In  this  parish  of  Glenluce,  there  was  a  spirit,  which 
for  a  long  space  molested  the  house  of  one  Campbell  a  Weaver, 
it  would  be  tedious  to  give  a  full  relation  of  all  the  stories  con- 
cerning it.  Sinclar  in  his  Hydrostaticks  gives  some  account 
of  it.  This  parish  was  in  anno  divided  into  two  parishes, 

the  one  called  the  New  Parish,  and  the  other  the  Old,  and  for 
that  effect  there  was  a  New  Kirk  built  about  thrie  miles  from 
the  other  Northward,  but  at  present  the  saids  two  parishes  are 
incorporated  into  one,  as  at  first.  The  whole  parish  of  Glen- 
luce holds  of  the  Bishop  of  Galloway  as  Abbot  of  Glenluce, 
who  hath  a  regality  here,  Sir  John  Dalrymple,  younger  of 
Stair  is  heritable  Bayly  thereof.  This  office  is  at  present 
exerced  by  Sir  Charles  Hay  of  Park.  Principall  Edifices  in 
this  parish  are  1,  Corsecrook,  An  house  standing  in  the  Moor, 
two  miles  distant  from  the  Kirk  eastwards.  It  was  long  since, 


90  GLENLUCE— INCH 

pertaining  to  the  Lairds  of  Bambarroch,  for  the  present  it 
pertaines  to  Sir  James  Dalrymple  of  Stair,  who  hath  lately 
built  it  de  novo,  and  hath  erected  here  a  stately  house  accord- 
ing to  the  modern  architecture,  although  it  might  have  been 
more  pleasant,  if  it  had  been  in  a  more  pleasant  place.  2,  The 
Park.  A  very  pleasant  dwelling  standing  on  a  level  hight  in 
the  midst  of  a  little  wood,  upon  the  Westside  of  the  water  of 
Luce,  the  Kirk  being  opposite  thereto  on  the  Eastside.  It 
belongs  to  Sir  Charles  Hay  of  Park.  3,  Balcarrie.  It  is  about 
a  mile  from  the  Kirk  towards  the  South,  it  belongs  also  to  Sir 
Charles  Hay  of  Park.  4,  Schinnernes.  A  good  stone  house 
standing  neer  the  sea  upon  a  promontorie  about  two  miles 
from  the  Kirk  towards  the  Southeast.  It  belongs  to  the  re- 
106.  presentatives  of  Kennedy  of  Schinnernes.  Midway 

betwixt  Balcarrie  and  Schinnerness  and  about  halfe  a  mile 
from  each,  there  is  an  old  chapel  or  Kirk,  called  Kirkchrist 
but  now  it  is  ruinous. 

10.  Inch.  The  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  Patron  of  this  Kirk  ; 
which  is  sixteen  miles  distant  from  Wigton,  and  four  miles 
from  Glenluce  towards  the  West,  and  two  miles  distant  from 
the  town  of  Stranrauer  eastwardly.  This  parish  of  the  Inch 
is  bounded  on  the  East  with  the  parish  of  Glenluce ;  On  the 
South  with  the  parish  of  Stoniekirk,  from  which  it  is  divided 
by  the  water  of  Paltanton  ;  On  the  Southwest  it  is  bounded 
with  the  parish  of  Portpatrick,  which  parish  was  once  belong- 
ing to,  and  was  a  part  of  the  parish  of  Inch,  and  to  this  day 
is  yet  called  the  black  quarter  thereof.  On  the  West  it  is 
bounded  with  the  parish  of  Las  wait  or  Laswede,  joyning 
thereto  just  at  the  Southside  of  the  town  of  Stranraver  which 
also  bounds  the  parish  of  Inch  on  the  West.  On  the  North- 
west it  is  bounded  with  a  great  Loch  or  Bay  of  the  sea,  call'd 
Loch  Rian,  pronounced  Loch  Ryan.  On  the  North  it  is 
bounded  with  the  parishes  of  Ballantrea  and  Commonell  in 
Carrick.  The  farthest  part  of  this  parish  is  about  six  miles 
distant  from  the  parish  Kirk.  In  this  parish  about  a  mile 
from  the  Kirk  towards  the  Southwest,  there  is  the  ruines  of  an 
Abbacy  environed  almost  with  a  great  freshwater  Loch,  in 
fashon  of  an  horseshoe,  this  Abbacy  is  commonly  calTd 
Salsyde,  by  Speed  Salsed  though  by  him  misplaced  pot'ius  Soul 


INCH  91 

Seat,  sedes  anlmarum ;  some  say  it  should  be  Saul  Seat  sedes 
Saulis  one  Saul  being  as  they  say  Abbot  or  Monk  thereat. 
The  Manse  belonging  to  the  Minister  of  the  Inch  is  seated 
here,  though  a  mile  distant  from  the  Kirk  and  the  Gleib  is 
environed  with  this  Loch,  and  a  short  trench  drawn  from  one  107. 
corner  to  the  other  thereof.  At  this  Manse  is  a  stone  pretty 
large,  which  I  have  seen,  to  the  particles  whereof  broken  off. 
the  countrey  people  attribute  great  vertue  for  cureing  of  the 
gravel,  and  tell  a  long  story  concerning  the  progress  of  that 
stone,  and  how  it  came  there,  concerning  which  if  you  think 
fit,  you  may  enquire  at  Mr  James  Hutcheson,  Minister  of 
North  Leith,  who  was  a  considerable  space  Minister  of  this 
parish  and  dwelt  in  this  house.  Principal  Edifices  in  this 
parish  of  the  Inch  are  1,  Castle  Kennedy.  A  stately  house 
and  formerly  one  of  the  dwelling  houses  of  the  Earls  of 
Cassillis  who  long  since  had  great  power  in  Galloway  which 
occasioned  then  the  ensuing  Rhyme. 

Twixt  Wig-ton  and  the  town  of  Air 
Portpatrick  and  the  Cruives  of  Cree 
No  man  needs  think  for  to  'bide  there 
Unless  he  court  with  Kennedie. 

This  house  now  belongs  to  Sir  John  Dalrymple  younger  of 
Stair.  It  is  environed  also  with  a  large  freshwater  Loch,  and 
almost  situated  like  the  Abbacy  of  Soul  Seat,  it  hath  also 
gardens  and  orchards  environed  with  the  Loch.  In  this  Loch 
there  are  two  severall  sorts  of  trouts,  the  one  blacker  than  the 
other,  and  each  keep  their  own  part  of  the  Loch,  so  that  when 
they  are  in  the  dish  at  the  table  those  that  are  acquainted 
with  their  differences,  can  easily  tell  in  which  part  of  the  Loch 
such  and  such  a  fish  was  taken  :  Just  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Loch  towards  the  Northwest  stands  the  parish  Kirk  of  the 
Inch,  so  caird  from  a  little  Island  call'd  the  Inch  situated  in  the 
Loch,  a  little  distance  from  the  Kirk,  Within  this  litle  Island, 
which  is  also  planted  with  trees,  is  a  little  house  built,  into 
which  the  late  Earl  of  Cassillis  used  to  retire  himselfe  betwixt 
sermons,  having  a  boat  for  that  purpose,  in  which  also  he 
could  be  soon  transported  from  Castle  Kennedy  to  the  Church 
and  so  back  again,  the  way  from  the  Kirk  to  the  Castle  by  108. 
land  being  about  a  mile  on  either  side  of  the  Loch.  2,  Inder- 


92  STRANRAVER 

niessan  situated  neer  Lochryan,  about  two  miles  distant  from 
the  Kirk  towards  the  North  West.  This  house  belongs  to  Sir 
Andrew  Agnew  of  Lochnaw.  Here  is  a  little  hamlet  or 
village,  which  of  old  was  the  most  considerable  place  in  the 
rinds  of  Galloway,  and  the  greatest  town  there  about,  till 
Stranrauer  was  built.  3,  Larg,  distant  about  two  miles  from 
the  Kirk  Northeast.  The  residence  of  William  Lin  of  Larg. 
4,  Craig  caffie  distant  two  miles  from  the  Kirk  Northwest,  it 
being  not  far  from  Indermessan.  It  is  the  residence  of  Gilbert 
Neilson  of  CraigCaffie. 

11.  Stran raver  called  also  the  Chapel.  This  is  a  Burgh 
Royal  lately  enrolled.  They  choose  annually  a  Provest  two 
Baylys  a  Dean  of  Guild  and  a  Treasurer,  with  severall  other 
Councellours.  This  town  is  eighteen  miles  westward  from 
Wigton.  It  lys  upon  the  Bay  called  Lochryan,  and  is  com- 
rnodiously  seated  for  trade  by  sea.  It  is  but  a  litle  town,  yet 
it  is  indifferently  well  built,  their  houses  are  within  for  the 
most  part  kept  neat  and  clean  and  their  meat  well  dress'd  by 
reason  of  their  correspondence  with  Ireland  being  only  about 
four  miles  distant  from  port  Patrick.  They  have  a  consider- 
able Market  here  every  Fry  day  and  two  yearly  faires  the  one 
being  on  the  first  Fryday  of  May,  and  the  second  being  on  the 
last  Fryday  of  August  and  call'd  St.  Johns  fair  in  harvest. 
The  parish  is  of  a  small  extent,  having  nothing  but  the  town 
belonging  thereto,  being  environed  with  the  parish  of  Laswalt 
on  the  West  and  Southwest,  and  with  the  parish  of  Inch  on 
the  East  and  Southeast,  which  two  parishes  meet  at  the  South- 
side  of  the  towne  and  out  of  these  two  parishes  this  parish  of 
Stranrauer  is  erected.  On  the  Northside  it  lys  open  to  the 
Lochryan.  The  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  patron  hereof.  On 
109.  the  Eastend  of  the  town  there  is  a  good  house  pertaining 
to  Sir  John  Dalrymple  younger  of  Stair,  calPd  the  Castle 
of  the  Chapel,  where  also  there  is  a  chapel  now  ruinous,  from 
whence  all  on  the  Eastside  of  the  Bourn  is  called  the  Chapel. 
Betwixt  this  house  and  the  Kirk  there  runs  a  bourn  or  strand 
so  that,  so  that  perhaps  the  town  should  be  spelFd  Strandraver. 
This  house  and  the  crofts  about  it,  though  I  have  diligently 
enquired  thereanent,  yet  I  could  never  certainly  learn  to  which 
parish  it  really  pertaines,  some  asserting  that  it  belongs  to  the 


KIRKCOLME  93 

parish  of  the  Inch,  others  that  it  belongs  to  the  parish  of 
Stranraver  though  not  lyable  to  the  Jurisdiction  of  the  burgh 
there,  as  some  alledge.  In  this  town  the  last  year,  while  they 
were  digging  a  Watergate  for  a  mill,  they  lighted  upon  a  ship 
a  considerable  distance  from  the  shore,  unto  which  the  sea  at 
the  highest  springtide  never  comes,  it  was  transversly  under  a 
little  bourne  and  wholly  covered  with  earth  a  considerable 
depth,  for  there  was  a  good  yard  with  kale  growing  in  it,  upon 
the  one  end  of  it;  By  that  part  of  it,  which  was  gotten  out, 
my  informers,  who  saw  it,  conjecture  that  the  vessel  had  been 
pretty  large,  they  also  tell  me  that  the  boards  were  not  joyned 
together  after  the  usuall  fashion  of  our  present  ships  or  barks 
as  also  that  it  had  nailes  of  copper. 

12.  Kirkcolme  pronounced  Kirkcumm.  This  Kirk  ly's  to 
the  Northwest  of  Stranraver,  being  about  four  miles  distant 
from  that  town  and  twentie  two  miles  distant  from  Wigton. 
The  Earl  of  Galloway  is  Patron  of  this  parish  of  Kirkcolm.  It 
is  bounded  toward  the  South  with  the  Parish  of  Las  wait ;  on 
all  other  parts  it  is  surrounded  with  the  sea ;  the  farthest  part 
of  this  part  is  about  three  miles  distant  from  the  Parish  Kirk, 
which  is  situated  on  the  Eastside  of  the  Parish  neer  the  shore 
of  Lochryan.  As  for  Edifices  in  this  Parish  there  is  none 
considerable  at  present,  but  of  old  there  was  an  house  call'd 
the  house  of  Corsewell,  it  was  a  considerable  house,  but  is  now  HO. 
wholly  ruinous,  it  is  neer  three  miles  from  the  Kirk  to  the 
Northwest  and  lys  neer  the  shore,  belonging  in  property  to  the 
Earl  of  Galloway,  but  possessed  by  way  of  Wadset  by  Mr  Hugh 
Dalrymple.  In  this  parish  of  Kirkcolme  about  halfe  a  mile 
from  the  Kirk  at  the  LochRyan,  there  is  a  place  calPd  the 
Skar,  which  runs  into  the  sea,  and  is  covered  at  high  water, 
but  at  low  water  especially  after  spring  tides,  it  wili  be  dry 
for  neer  the  space  of  a  mile,  upon  which  oysters  are  gotten  in 
great  plenty.  On  the  Westside  of  this  Skar,  muscles  and 
cockles  are  also  gotten  in  great  plenty.  In  this  parish  also 
about  a  mile  and  an  half  from  the  Kirk,  in  the  way  betwixt  it 
and  Stranraver  there  was  of  old  a  Chapel  called  Killemorie  but 
now  wholly  ruinous,  within  a  litle  croft  of  about  fourty  shill- 
ings sterling  of  yearly  rent,  possessed  by  a  countrey  man  John 
McMeckin,  calPd  ordinarly  by  the  Countrey  people  the  Laird, 


94  LASWALT— PORTPATRICK 

he  and  his  predecessors  having  enjoy  M  the  same  for  severall 
generations.  At  the  side  of  this  Chapel  in  the  Croft  com- 
monly called  the  Lairds  Croft,  there  is  a  well  to  which  people 
superstitiously  resort,  to  fetch  water  for  sick  persones  to  drink 
and  they  report  that  if  the  person's  disease  be  deadly  the  well 
will  be  so  dry  that  it  will  be  difficult  to  get  water,  but  if  the 
person  be  recoverable,  then  there  will  be  water  enough. 

13.  Laswalt  pronounced   Laswede.     This  Kirk  lyes  to  the 
Northwestward  of  Stranraver,  from  whence  it  is  distant  about 
two  miles,   and   distant   from    Wigton   twenty    miles.      The 
Bishop  of  Galloway    is  patron.     This   parish   of  Laswalt  is 
bounded  towards  the  North  with  the  parish  of  Kirkcolme.    On 
the  West  with  the  sea  that  looks  to  Ireland,  on  the  South  it 
is  bounded  with  the  parish  of  Portpatrick,  from  which  it  is 
partly  separated  by  the  water  of  Paltanton.     On  the  South 

in.  East  and  East  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of  the  Inch ;  and 
on  the  Northeast  it  is  bounded  with  the  Loch  Ryan  and 
Stranraver.  The  farthest  part  in  this  parish  of  Laswalt  is 
about  three  miles  distant  from  the  parish  Kirk.  Principal 
Edifices  in  this  parish  are  1,  Loclmaw  a  very  good  house 
distant  from  the  Kirk  about  a  mile  westward.  This  house 
hath  a  Loch  neer  to  it.  It  is  the  principal  Residence  of 
Sir  Andrew  Agnew  of  Lochnaw.  The  Office  of  Constabularie 
is  annexed  thereto,  and  the  said  Sir  Andrew  Agnew  is  herit- 
able Constable  thereof.  2,  Galdenoch  a  tower  house  more 
than  a  mile  distant  from  the  Kirk  Northwestwardly  being 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant  from  Lochnaw  towards  the 
North.  3.  The  Mark  a  new  house  lately  built  of  brick  made 
there.  It  stands  about  a  bow  draught  from  the  town  of  Stran- 
rauer,  and  about  two  miles  distant  from  the  parish  Kirk.  It 
belongs  to  Agnew  of  Sheuchan. 

14.  Portpatrick.     The  Laird  of  Dunskay  is  patron  hereof. 
The  parish  of  Portpatrick  is  bounded  on  the  North  with  the 
parish  of  Laswalt,  from  which  it  is  in  part  separated  by  the 
water  Paltanton.     On  the  Northeast  it  is  bounded  with  the 
parish  of  the  Inch.    It  is  bounded  on  the  East  and  South  with 
the  parish  of  StonieKirk.     On  the  West  it  lyeth  upon  the  sea 
and  is  the  usual  passage  betwixt  this  Countrey  and  the  King- 
dome  of  Ireland  from  which  it  is  about         leagues  distant. 


PORTPATRICK— STOMEKIRK  95 

The  Minister  of  Portpatrick  by  a  gift  from  King  Charles  the 
Martyr  is  Commendator  of  Soulseat,  and  by  vertue  thereof 
pretends  to  have  a  right  to  several  superiorities  priviledges 
and  emoluments  but  I  cannot  positively  affirme  any  thing 
thereanent  by  reason  that  his  right  thereto  hath  been  long  in 
debate  before  the  Lords  of  Session  and  is  not  yet  determined. 
The  Kirk  of  Portpatrick  stands  just  on  the  sea  side  neer  to  the 
harbour,  which  is  four  miles  distant  from  Stranrauer  and  U%. 
twenty  two  miles  distant  from  the  town  of  Wigton  towards 
the  West.  The  farthest  part  in  the  parish  of  Portpatrick 
is  about  three  miles  distant  from  the  Parish  kirk.  Principal 
Edifices  are  1,  Dunskay  once  a  great  Castle  belonging  to  my 
Lord  of  Airds  in  Ireland,  now  belonging  to  John  Blair  of 
Dunskay  son  and  heir  to  Master  John  Blair  late  Minister 
of  Portpatrick,  it  is  now  wholly  ruinous,  it  stood  upon  a  rock 
on  the  seaside,  within  a  quarter  of  a  miles  distance  from  the 
Kirk.  2.  Killanringan  about  a  mile  distant  from  the  Kirk 
towards  the  North  lying  neer  the  sea  shore,  the  present 
Residence  of  the  forsaid  John  Blair  of  Dunskay  who  is 
heritor  thereof  as  also  of  the  far  greatest  part  of  the  whole 
parish. 

15.  Stoniekirk.  The  Laird  of  Garthland  is  Patron  hereof. 
There  are  two  other  parishes  annexed  to  it,  viz.  Toskerton  and 
Clashshant,  both  holding  of  the  Bishop  of  Galloway,  upon 
which  account  the  Bishop  alledges  that  Garthland  should  only 
present  at  every  third  vacancy,  or  at  least  that  they  should 
present  per  vices.  This  Kirk  of  Stoniekirk  lys  to  the  South- 
ward of  Stranraver,  from  which  it  is  distant  about  four  miles. 
The  parish  of  Stoniekirk,  the  other  two  parishes  of  Toskerton 
and  Clashshant  being  included,  is  bounded  on  the  East  and 
Southeast  with  the  sands  or  Bay  of  Glenluce ;  on  the  South 
with  the  parish  of  Kirkmaiden.  On  the  West  with  the  sea 
looking  towards  Ireland ;  Towards  the  Northwest  and  more 
Northerly  it  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of  Portpatrick  On  the 
North  with  the  parishes  of  Glenluce  and  Inch  from  which  it 
is  separated  by  the  water  of  Poltanton.  The  farthest  part 
of  this  parish  of  Stoniekirk,  Toskerton  and  Clashshant  being 
included,  is  distant  almost  four  miles  from  the  Parish  Kirk 
which  is  distant  towards  the  West  from  Wigton,  eighteen  113. 


96  STONIEKIRK— KIRKMAIDEN 

miles.  Principal  Edifices  in  this  parish  of  Stoniekirk  are  1. 
Garthland  a  good  old  strong  house  distant  from  the  Parish 
kirk  about  a  mile  N.N.W.  or  thereby.  It  is  the  dwelling 
place  of  William  Mcdowall  of  Garthland.  2,  Balgreggan 
another  good  strong  house  distant  from  the  parish  kirk  a  large 
mile  towards  the  South.  It  was  the  ordinary  residence  of  the 
Laird  of  Freuch  whose  sirname  is  also  Mcdowal.  3,  Ardwell 
distant  from  the  parish  Kirk  three  miles  towards  the  South. 
It  is  the  present  residence  of  Sir  Godfrey  McCulloch  of  Myrton. 
and  lyes  midway  betwixt  the  Bay  of  Glenluce  and  the  sea  look- 
ing towards  Ireland,  the  distance  betwixt  the  two  seas  at  high 
water  being  about  two  miles  and  an  halfe.  4,  Killaser  distant 
from  the  parish  Kirk  about  three  miles  and  about  half  a  mile 
to  the  Eastward  of  Ardwell,  this  house  also  belongs  to  Sir 
Godfrey  McCulloch. 

16.  Kirkmaiden  so  called  because  the  Kirk  is  dedicated  tc 
Virgin  Mary  the  Print  of  whose  knee  is  fabulously  reported  to 
be  seen  on  a  stone  where  she  prayed  somewhere  about  a  place 
in  this  parish  called  Maryport,  neer  to  which  place  there  was 
a  chapel  long  since,  but  now  wholly  ruined,  neer  which  place 
also  at  a  peece  of  ground  called  Creechen  about  a  mile  distant 
from  the  Kirk,  the  sheep  have  all  their  teeth  very  yellow,  yea 
and  their  very  skin  and  wool  are  yellower  than  any  other  sheep 
in  the  countrey  and  will  easily  be  known  though  they  were 
mingled  with  any  other  flocks  of  sheep  in  the  whole  countrev. 
The  Kings  Majesty  is  Patron  of  the  parish  of  Kirkmaiden, 
although  the  Lairds  of  Kilhilt  pretend  thereto  and  are  in  pos- 
session thereof  This  parish  Kirk  is  about  twenty  miles 
114.  distant  from  Wigton  towards  the  Southwest  and  about 
miles  distant  from  Stranraver  more  Southwardly. 
This  Parish  is  an  Isthmus  or  narrow  tongue  of  Land  reaching 
into  the  sea  for  the  space  of  about  miles  and  is  sur- 
rounded with  the  sea  on  all  quarters  except  at  the  one  end 
thereof  which  is  bounded  with  the  parish  of  Stoniekirk.  The 
broadest  part  of  this  parish  of  Kirkmaiden  is  litle  more  than 
a  mile  and  an  halfe  or  thereby ;  the  narrowest  part  will  be 
about  a  mile  ;  and  the  Farthest  part  of  the  parish  will  be  but 
a  little  more  than  three  miles  distant  from  the  parish  kirk. 
On  the  point  of  this  Isthmus  two  large  miles  and  more  from 


KIRKMAIDEN  97 

the  Kirk  and  at  the  South  East  part  of  the  parish,  is  the  pro- 
montory called  the  Mule  or  Mule  of  Galloway,  to  distinguish 
it  from  the  Mule  of  Kintyre.  At  the  which  place  there  is 
most  commonly  a  very  impetuous  current.  Principall  Edifices 
in  this  parish  are  1,  Logan  The  dwelling  place  of  Patrick 
Mcdowall  of  Logan,  Lieutennent  to  his  Majesties  Militia 
troop  of  horse  for  this  shire  and  distant  from  the  parish  Kirk 
about  2  miles  and  an  halfe  towards  the  North.  In  this 
Gentlemans  Land  at  the  seaside  opposite  to  the  coast  of 
Ireland  is  a  place  called  Portnessock  very  commodious  for  an 
Harbour,  whereupon  his  eldest  son  Robert  heir  apparent  of 
Logan  hath  lately  procured  an  act  of  his  Majesties  privy 
Councill  for  a  voluntary  contribution  towards  the  building  of 
an  harbour  there.  At  this  Portnessock  there  is  an  excellent 
Quarrie  of  slate  stones,  which  are  very  large  and  durable. 
The  countrey  hereabouts  especially  in  the  summer  time  is  very 
defective  of  Mills  by  reason  that  the  litle  bourns  are  there 
dryed  up ;  to  supply  which  defect,  the  Laird  of  Logan  hath 
lately  built  an  excellent  Wind-mill,  which  is  very  usefull  not 
only  to  his  own  lands  but  to  the  whole  countrey  thereabouts. 
In  this  Gentlemans  land  about  a  mile  and  an  halfe  from  the 
parish  Kirk  is  a  well  calPd  Muntluckwell,  it  is  in  the  midst  of 
a  litle  Bogg,  to  which  well  severall  persons  have  recourse  to 
fetch  water  for  such  as  are  sick  asserting  [whether  it  be  truth 
or  falshood  I  shall  not  determine]  that  if  the  sick  person 
shall  recover,  the  water  will  so  buller  and  mount  up,  when  the 
Messinger  dips  in  his  vessel,  that  he  will  hardly  get  out  dry 
shod  by  reason  of  the  overflowing  of  the  well  but  if  the  sick 
person  be  not  to  recover,  then  there  will  not  be  any  such  over- 
flowing in  the  least.  It  is  also  reported  [but  I  am  not  bound 
to  beleeve  all  reports]  that  in  this  Gentlemans  land  there  is  a 
rock  at  the  seaside  opposite  to  the  coast  of  Ireland,  which  is 
continually  dropping  both  winter  and  summer,  which  drop 
hath  this  quality,  as  my  Informer  saith,  that  if  any  person  be 
troubled  with  chine-cough,  he  may  be  infallibly  cured  by 
holding  up  his  mouth  and  letting  this  drop  fall  therein. 
What  truth  there  is  in  this  information  I  know  not,  but  this 
I  am  sure  of,  that  on  the  other  shore  of  this  Isthmus  in  this 
Gentlemans  ground,  there  is,  or  at  least  not  long  since  was  a 
VOL.  ii.  G 


98  KIRKMAIDEN 

saltpan  where  good  salt  was  made,  with  peits  instead  of  coals. 

2,  Cloneyard.     It  was  of  old  a  very  great  house  pertaining  to 

Gordon  of  Cloneyard  but  now  it  is  something  ruinous. 
It  lyes  about  a  mile  distant  from  the  parish  kirk  northwardly. 

3,  Drummore.     This  house  is  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
distant  from  the  parish  Kirk  towards  the  East,  and  apper- 
taines  to  Squire  Adair  of  Kilhilt. 

These  eight  parishes  last  mentioned  viz.  Glenluce,  the  new 
no.  Kirk  being  included,  Inch,  Stranraver,  Kirkcolme,  Laswalt, 
Portpatrick,  Stoniekirk,  Tosherton  and  Clashshant  being  in- 
cluded and  Kirkmaiden,  make  up  the  Presbytrie  of  Stranraver 
one  of  the  three  Presbytries  of  the  Dioces  of  Galloway.  The 
Ministers  of  the  Presbytrie  meet  ordinarly  at  Stranraver  the 
first  Wednesday  of  every  month  and  oftener  if  they  find 
cause,  for  exerceing  of  Church  Discipline  and  others  affairs 
belonging  to  them. 

The  sixteen  parishes  last  described,  viz.  1  Penygham,  2 
Wigton,  3  Kirkinner,  Longcastle  being  included,  4  Sorbic, 
Kirkmadroyne  and  Crughton  being  included,  5  Whitherne  (j 
Glasserton,  Kirkmaiden  being  included,  7  Mochrum,  8  Kirk- 
cowan,  9  Glenluce,  including  both  the  old  and  new  Kirk,  10 
Inch,  11  Stranraver,  12  Kirkcolme,  13  Laswalt,  14  Port- 
patrick, 15  Stoniekirk,  Toskerton  and  Clashshant  being  in- 
cluded, and  16  Kirkmaiden,  are  all  lying  within  the  bounds  of 
the  shire  of  Wigton  and  so  lyable  to  the  Jurisdiction  of  the 
Sheriff  of  Wigton,  which  office  belongs  heritably  to  Sir 
Andrew  Agnew  of  Lochnaw  whose  predecessors  have  enjoy \\ 
the  same  for  more  than  two  hundred  and  fifty  years.  But  at 
present  that  Office  is  excerc'd  by  Collonell  John  Graham  of 
Claverhouse  and  Mr  David  Graham  his  brother.  They  keep 
their  head  court  at  Wigton,  and  their  ordinary  Courts  there 
too,  either  by  themselves  or  their  deputes  every  tuesday 
except  in  time  of  Vacation.  They  have  another  Depute  also 
at  Stranraver  who  keeps  court  there  on  Frydays  for  the 
benefit  of  such  as  dwell  at  a  great  distance  from  Wigton  the 
head  Burgh.  The  shire  of  Wigton  sends  two  Commissioners 
to  the  Parliam:  or  Convention  of  Estates  though  far  less  both 
in  bounds  and  valuation  than  the  Stewartrie  of  Kirkcuburgh 
which  sends  but  one. 


GALLOWAY  99 

The  Commissary  of  Wigton  who  hath  his  dependance  upon  117. 
the  Bishop  of  Galloway  hath  jurisdiction  over  the  whole  shire 
of  Wigton  and  parish  of  Monnygaffe  in  the  Stewartrie.  So 
that  the  Commissariot  of  Wigton  comprehends  exactly  the 
whole  Presbytries  of  Wigton  and  Stranraver.  He  either  by 
himself  or  his  Deputs  keeps  court  at  Wigton  every  Wednes- 
day except  in  vacation  time,  for  confirming  of  testaments,  and 
deciding  in  causes  brought  before  him. 

Finis  partis  primes. 

PART  SECOND 

ANSWERS  to  QUERIES  concerning  GALLOWAY  l 

Thus  much  for  the  particular  parishes  of  the  Stewartrie  of 
Kirkcudburgh  and  Shire  of  Wigton,  which  may  serve  for  ane 
general  answer  to  severall  of  your  Queries,  and  yet  I  shall  in 
this  second  part,  give  a  more  particular  answer  to  some  of 
them,  which  could  not  be  conveniently  inserted  in  the  forsaid 
description  of  the  several  parishes. 

As  to  the  first  Querie.  What  the  nature  of  the  countrey 
or  place  is  ?  Answ :  The  North  parts  through  the  whole 
Stewartrie  are  hilly  and  mountainous.  The  whole  parish  of 
Monnygaffe  consists  for  the  most  part  of  hills,  mountains,  wild 
forrests,  and  moors.  The  Southerne  part  of  the  Stewartrie  is 
more  level  and  arable.  As  for  the  Shire  of  Wigton,  the  heads 
or  Northern  parts  of  the  parishes  of  Penygham,  Kirkcowand, 
Glenluce  &c  are  Moors  and  Boggs.  The  Southern  part  of  the 
Presbytry  of  Wigton  from  the  Kirk  of  Penygham  to  the  sea, 
contains  much  arable  land,  especially  in  the  Machirrs  which, 
as  I  said  formerly,  imports  white  land.  It  consists  generally  118. 
of  a  thin  gravelly  ground  but  towards  the  sea  coast  it  is  deeper 
and  more  inclining  to  a  clay.  The  Park  of  Baldone  for  the 
most  part,  is  a  plain  even  ground  consisting  of  a  very  rich  clay 
bearing  excellent  grass  fit  for  the  syth.  In  this  park  of  Bal- 
done the  snow  uses  to  melt  shortly  after  it  falls ;  yea  through- 
out the  whole  shire  except  in  the  Northern  Moors  thereof 
snow  lyes  not  long,  but  melts  within  a  day  or  two,  unless  it  be 
accompanied  with  violent  frosts.  The  Southern  part  of  the 

1  This  title  is  in  pencil. — ED. 


100  GALLOWAY 

Rirms  (the  Presbytry  of  Stranraver  lying  westerward  of  the 
water  of  Glenluce  being  commonly  called  the  Rinns  or  Rinds 
of  Galloway)  is  also  arable  and  level  and  the  land  is  more 
sandie  than  in  the  Presbytry  of  Wigton.  Under  this  head  I 
think  it  will  not  be  amiss  to  inform  you^  that  although  we 
have  mice  good  store,  yet  we  have  no  Rats,  [in  this  Presbytrie 
I  mean,  but  whither  they  are  in  the  Rinns  I  know  riot]. 
Whither  this  proceeds  from  the  nature  of  the  countrey  I 
cannot  determine,  or  whither  they  will  live  here  or  not. 
However  there  is  a  Gentleman  in  this  parish  of  Kirkinner,  who 
assures  me  that  above  thirty;  yeafj$, sihce,  he  saw  an  innumer- 
able multitude  of  Rats  in  his  barne,  which  overspread  most  of 
his  corne  there,  but  they  only  stayed  a  day  or  two,  and  then 
evanished,  he  not  knowing  whence  they  came  or  whither  they 
went.  In  the  shire  of  Wigton  we  have  nether  coal,  nor  lime- 
stone nor  freestone  nor  any  wood  considerable,  except  planting 
about  Gentlemens  houses,  and  yet  there  are  very  few  parishes 
but  have  one  or  two  good  stone  houses  very  well  built,  wherein 
a  Gentleman  of  a  good  quality  and  Estate  may  conveniently 
dwell;  when  they  build,  they  furnish  themselves  with  freestone 
from  England.  As  for  lime  they  are  supplyed  from  the  shell- 
119.  bank  of  Kirkinner,  and  with  timber  for  building  from  the 
wood  of  Cree  in  Monnygaff  parish  which  yeilds  abundance  of 
good  strong  Oak.  Those  that  live  near  the  coast  side,  may  if 
they  please,  furnish  themselves  with  coales  from  England,  but 
for  the  most  part,  the  countrey,  except  towards  the  sea,  is  well 
furnished  with  Mosses,  from  whence,  in  the  summer  time  they 
provide  themselves  with  peits,  which  are  so  plentiful!,  that  in 
the  parishes  of  Glenluce  and  Kirkmaiden,  they  sometimes  have 
saltpans  and  with  peits  instead  of  coals  make  salt.  In  the 
parish  of  Whithern,  because  severall  of  them  are  a  consider- 
able distance  from  the  peit  moss,  they  have  a  fewell,  which 
they  call  baked  Peits,  which  they  take  out  of  a  stiff  black 
marish  ground  in  the  summer  time,  work  them  with  their 
hands,  and  making  them  like  very  thick  round  cakes,  they 
expose  them  to  the  sun,  and  after  they  be  throughly  dry 
they  yeild  a  hot  and  durable  fire.  . .. .  : 

As  to  the  second  part  of  the  Querie,  What  are  the  cheife 
products?      Answ:    Neat,    small   horses,  sheep,  and  in  some 


GALLOWAY  101 

parts  of  the  moors,  Goats ;  Wool,  white  woolen  cloath  ;  Beir, . 
Oats,  hay.  Their  Bestial  are  vented  in  England,  their  sheep 
for  the  most  part  at  Edinburgh;  their  horses  and  woolen 
cloath  at  the  faires  of  Wigton ;  their  wool  at  Air,  Glasgow, 
Sterling,  Edinburg  &c.  Their  wool  is  of  three  sorts:  Laid- 
Wool,  Moor  Wool,  and  Deal  Wool ;  The  most  part  of  their 
Laid  Wool  called  in  other  parts  smeard  Wool,  is  in  the  Parish 
of  Monnygaffe,  so  called  because  about  Martimas  they  melt 
butter  and  Tar  together  and  therewith  they  lay  for  that 
is  their  expression,  or  smear  their  sheep  by  parting  the  wool 
and  with  their  finger  straking  in  the  mixt  butter  and  Tar  on  120. 
the  sheeps  skin,  which  as  it  makes  the  wool  grow  longer  and  so 
the  better  for  the  finester,  so  it  fortifies  the  sheep  against  the 
frost  and  snow,  which  uses  to  be  far  more  excessive  there  than 
in  the  lower  grounds.  This  Wool  though  far  longer  than  the 
other  two  sorts  will  not  give  so  much  per  stone,  by  reason 
that  when  the  wool  is  scoured,  and  the  butter  and  tar  washed 
out,  it  will  not  hold  out  weight  by  far  so  well,  as  the  next  sort, 
viz.  Moor  Wool,  this  is  the  best  of  the  three  sorts,  being  very 
cleane,  because  not  tarr'd  and  consequently  much  whiter.  The 
best  Moor  Wool  is  said  to  be  in  Penygham,  Kirkcowan,  Moch- 
rum,  Glenluce  in  the  shire,  and  upon  the  water  of  Fleet  in  the 
Stewartrie.  The  third  sort  viz.  Dale  or  deal  wool  is  not 
usually  so  good  as  the  Moor  Wool,  being  much  fouler  than  it, 
in  regard  of  the  toft  Dykes  which  enclose  the  sheepfolds  in 
the  ground  neer  the  shore,  whereas  in  the  Moors  their  folds 
are  surrounded  with  dykes  of  single  stones  laid  one  upon  the 
other. 

The  Oates  in  the  shire  are  commonly  very  bad,  being  com- 
par'd  with  the  Oates  of  many  other  shires,  having  long  beards 
or  awnds,  and  although  their  measure  be  heaped,  and  the 
weakest  and  worst  of  their  Oates  which  they  reserve  for  their 
horses  and  seed,  be  winnowed  and  drawn  out,  yet  three  bolls 
of  corne  will  not  yeild  much  more  than  one  boll  of  good  and 
sufficient  meal  straked  measure,  however  the  countrey  people 
have  the  dexterity  of  making  excellent  and  very  hearty  meal, 
I  mean  when  they  make  it  designedly  and  for  their  own  use, 
shelling  it  in  the  Mill,  twice  and  sometimes  thrice,  before  they 
grind  it  into  meal  and  then  they  grind  it  not  so  small  and 


102  GALLOWAY 

/.'/.  fine,  as  they  do  commonly  in  other  parts.  It  is  fit  to  be 
remembred  here,  that  before  they  carry  the  corne  to  the  mill, 
after  it  is  dry'd  in  the  Killn,  they  lay  it  upon  the  Kiln  flour  in 
a  circular  bed  about  a  foot  thick,  then  being  barefoot  they  go 
among  it  rubbing  it  with  their  feet,  (this  they  call  Lomeing  of 
the  corne),  and  by  this  means,  the  long  beards  and  awnds  are 
separated  from  the  corne,  and  the  corne  made,  as  they  terme  it 
more  snod  and  easie  to  pass  through  the  mill,  when  they  are 
shelling  of  the  corne  there.  The  ordinary  encrease  of  this 
corne  is  but  three  for  one,  which,  for  they  sow  much,  will, 
except  in  years  of  great  scarcitie,  abundantly  satisfy  them- 
selves and  furnish  the  Moorlands  plentifully  with  victual,  yea 
and  oftentimes  they  vend  and  transport  much  thereof  to  other 
countreys.  In  some  places  viz.  neer  the  sea,  they  sow  a  whiter 
and  greater  corne,  which  hath  a  greater  increase  both  to  the 
mill  and  from  it.  They  begin  to  plough  their  Oatland  in 
October  and  begin  to  sow  in  February  if  the  weather  will 
permit,  for  that  Maxime  of  Agriculture  proper ato  satio  scepc 
solet  decipere  sera  semper  suits  exactly  with  this  countrey. 
They  divide  their  arable  land  into  eight  parts  at  least,  which 
they  call  cropts,  four  whereof  they  till  yearly.  Their  first 
cropt  they  call  their  Lay,  and  this  is  that  on  which  the 
bestial  and  sheep  were  folded  the  summer  and  harvest  before 
and  teathed  by  their  lying  there.  The  second  croft  they  call 
their  Awell,  and  this  is  that  which  was  the  Lay  cropt  the  year 
before.  The  third,  which  was  their  Awell  the  former  year,  they 
call  only  the  third  Cropt.  The  fourth  is  that  which  was  their 
third  cropt  the  foregoing  year,  however  good  husbands  till, 
but  litle  of  this ;  and  then  these  cropts  or  parts  remaine  four 
years  at  least  untilTd  after  this  so  that  the  one  halfe  of  their 
arable  land  is  only  tilFd  yearly,  the  other  halfe  bearing  only 
grass  and  as  they  terme  it  lying  Lee.  Thus  much  for  their 
tilling  of  their  Oatland,  save  only  that  in  the  Shire  they  till 

H9.  not  ordinarly  with  horses,  but  with  oxen,  some  only  with 
eight  oxen,  but  usually  they  have  ten,  which  ten  oxen  are  not 
so  expensive  by  far  in  keeping  as  four  horses,  which  must  be 
fed  dayly  with  corne,  besides  the  oxen  yeeld  much  more  dung, 
as  also  when  they  grow  old  and  unserviceable,  they  get  a  good 
price  for  them  from  the  graziers  and  drovers.  In  several  1 


GALLOWAY  103 

parts  of  the  Stewartrie  they  till  with  four  horses  all  abreast, 
and  bound  together  to  a  small  tree  before,  which  a  boy  or 
sometimes  a  woman  leads,  going  backwards.  In  the  mean 
time  another  stronger  man  hath  a  strong  stick  about  four  foot 
long  with  an  iron  hook  at  the  lowest  end  thereof,  with  which 
being  put  into  an  other  Iron  fastened  to  the  end  of  the  plough- 
beame  and  leaning  upon  the  upper  end  of  the  stick  and  guiding 
it  with  his  hands,  he  holds  the  plough  beam  up  or  down 
accordingly  as  he  finds  the  ground  deep  or  shallow  ;  the  land 
where  they  use  this  sort  of  tilling  being  far  more  rocky  and 
stonier  than  in  the  shire. 

Their  Beir  is  commonly  very  oatie,  and  in  some  places  mixt 
with  darnel,  which  they  call  Roseager,  especially  in  wet  land 
and  in  a  wet  year.  This  Roseager  being  narcotick  occasions 
strangers  to  find  fault  with  our  ale,  although  it  do  not  much 
trouble  the  inhabitants  there,  but  is  sometimes  thought  by 
them  to  be  no  ill  ingredient,  providing  there  be  not  too  great 
a  quantity  thereof,  because,  as  some  alledge,  it  makes  the 
drink  to  be  the  stronger.  As  for  this  Roseager,  although  I  do 
not  much  plead  for  it,  yet  it  is  not  to  be  imputed  to  this 
countrey  as  peculiar  to  our  Beir,  for  sure  I  am  as  I  was  some 
years  since  riding  in  Lothian  Within  three  miles  of  the  Ports 
of  Edinburgh  I  saw  more  plenty  of  it  growing  among  barly 
there,  than  I  ever  saw  growing  in  so  little  bounds ;  in  any  part 
of  Galloway.  However  as  for  the  Beir  itselfe,  it  is  indifferent 
good,  though  not  so  birthy  as  in  many  other  places,  for  its 
encrease  is  usually  but  about  four  or  five  for  one,  and  yet  they 
are  abundantly  able  to  serve  themselves  and  to  transport  great 
quantities  thereof  to  the  Moors  of  Monnygaffe  &c  as  also  to 
Greenock  and  other  places.  They  sow,  contrary  to  their 
sowing  of  oates,  the  best  seed  they  can  get,  and  yet  it  comes 
up  oatie,  much  whereof  remaines  after  the  winnowing.  They 
deliver  to  the  Maltman  nine  measures  of  beir,  and  he  delivers 
back  only  eight  measures  of  made  Malt.  They  begin  to  till 
their  beirland  about  the  latter  end  of  March  or  the  beginning 
of  April,  and  after  the  same  hath  been  till'd  twenty  days,  and 
the  weeds  begin  to  plant,  as  their  phrase  is,  they  sow  it,  tilling 
the  same  but  once  which  is  something  peculiar  to  this 
countrey,  yea  and  they  sow  their  Beir  in  the  same  place  every 


104  GALLOWAY 

year,  and  without  intermission,  which  is  also  peculiar,  in  a 
peece  of  ground  lying  neerest  to  their  house,  and  this  peece  of 
ground  they  call  their  Beir-Fay.  On  which  they  lay  their  dung 
before  tilling,  but  their  dung  will  not  suffice  to  cover  the  same 
yearly,  yea  they  think  it  sufficient  if  in  three  years  space,  the 
whole  be  dunged,  and  this  I  suppose  is  also  peculiar  to  this 
countrey.  After  the  beir  is  sprung  up,  about  eight  or  ten 
days  after  the  sowing,  I  have  observed  them  towards  the 
evening  (if  there  hath  been  a  little  shower,  or  they  perceave 
that  there  will  be  one  ere  the  next  morning,)  to  harrow  their 
beirland  lightly  all  over,  which  as  they  find  by  experience, 
plucks  up  and  destroys  the  young  weeds,  which  wither  and 
decay,  but  the  beir  presently  takes  rooting  again  without  any 
prejudice,  unless  a  great  drought  do  immediatly  follow.  It  is 
frequently  observed  that  better  beir  grows  on  the  part  of  the 
Fay  that  was  dunged  the  preceeding  year,  than  on  that  which 
was  only  dunged  the  current  year.  Their  beir  is  ripe  about 
Lambas  and  sometime  sooner.  They  have  always  at  the  end  of 
their  Beir-Fay  an  hemp-rigg  on  which  they  sow  hemp  yearly, 
which  supplys  them  with  sacks,  cords,  and  other  domestick 
uses,  this  Hemprigg  is  very  rich  land,  as  being  their  Dunghill, 
where  they  put  all  their  dung,  which  in  the  winter  and  spring 
their  Byres  and  Stables  do  furnish  them  with. 

As  for  Wheat,  there  is  but  very  little  of  it  to  be  found 
growing  in  this  countrey.  Nether  have  they  any  quantity  of 
Rye,  that  which  is,  is  usually  to  be  found  growing  with  the 
Moormen  only. 

As  for  Pease,  very  few  in  this  countrey  sow  them  and  yet  I 
know  by  experience,  that  they  might  get  very  much  advantage 
by  sowing  of  them,  the  encrease  being  ordinarly  sixteen  and 
more  for  one,  yea  and  it  is  a  rare  thing  to  see  any  pease  worm- 
eaten;  What  the  Reason  is  that  they  do  not  sow  them,  I  do 
not  very  well  know,  however  I  suppose  one  reason  to  be, 
because  their  sheep  (which  are  many  and  not  at  all  housed  as 
in  many  other  places)  would  eat  them  all  up,  since  the  pease 
should  be  sowne  much  sooner  than  the  ordinary  time  of  their 
herding  their  sheep. 

As  to  the  second  Querie,  concerning  plants  I  can  give  no 
answer  save  this,  that  I  know  no  plants  peculiar  to  this 


GALLOWAY  105 

countrey,  yet  I  have  observed  these  following  to  grow  more 
plentifully  here  than  I  remember  to  have  seen  in  other  places, 
viz.  at  the  seaside,  Glasswort,  Eringo,  sea-wormwood,  Scurvy- 
grass,  Sea  Kale,  and  on  the  Rocks  Paspier,  Hindtongue.  In 
the  Moors,  Spleenwort,  Heath  or  Heather  with  the  flower.  In 
boggs,  mosses  and  soft  ground,  Ros  Solis  (the  countrey  people 
call  it  Muirill  grass,  and  give  it  to  their  cattel  in  drink 
against  the  disease  called  the  Muir-ill)  Pinguicula  or  Butter- 
niat  or  Yorkshire  Sanicle  (which  being  made  into  an  ointment 
is  very  good  to  anoint  the  udders  of  their  kine,  when  they  are 
rocked  or  chapped)  Hasta  Regia  or  Lancashire  Ashphodele. 
As  also  the  true  Osmunda  Regalis,  or  filiae  florida;  many 
horse  loads  whereof  are  growing  in  the  Caumfoord  neer  the 
Loch  of  Longcastle  in  this  parish  of  Kirkinner ;  this  plant  the 
countrey  people  call  the  Lane  Onion  or  as  they  pronounce  it 
the  Lene  Onion,  the  word  Lene  in  their  dialect  importing  a 
soft,  grassie  meadow  ground,  they  call  this  plant  also  by  the 
name  of  stifling  grass,  and  they  make  much  use  of  it  for  the 
consolidating  of  broken  bones,  or  straines  ether  in  man  or 
beast,  by  steeping  the  root  thereof  in  Water  till  it  become 
like  to  glue  water  or  size,  wherewith  they  wash  the  place 
affected  with  very  good  success.  Danewort  also  grows  very 
plentifully  on  the  Southeast  of  Wigton ;  in  the  Churchyard 
of  Anwoth,  and  in  a  place  of  this  parish  of  Kirkinner  called 
the  Cruives  of  Dereagill ; l  this  vegetable,  whether  herb  or 
shrub  I  shall  not  dispute,  is  found  by  experience  to  be  very 
usefull  against  paines  in  the  joynts  or  the  contraction  of  the 
nerves  and  sinews  by  bathing  the  place  affected,  in  a  decoction 
of  the  leaves  and  stalks  of  the  said  plant  in  sea  water.  I  had 
almost  forgot  to  tell  you  that  upon  the  low  rocks  covered 
every  spring  tide,  in  Skelleray  in  this  parish  of  Kirkinner  I 
found  the  Sea  Lavender  or  Limonium,  which  Gerrard  calls 
Britannia  it  is  a  fine  plant  with  a  pretty  flower.  I  took  up 
some  of  the  plants  with  the  clayie  sand  sticking  to  the  roots 
and  planted  the  same  in  my  garden,  which  grew  wellenough. 
I  have  seen  this  plant  since,  growing  in  Mr  Sutherlands 
Garden,  who  told  me  he  brought  it  from  Gravesend.  In  the 


1  '  DarigilP  interlined. — ED. 


106  GALLOWAY 

parish  of  Monnygaffe  there  is  ane  excrescence,  which  is  gotten 
off  the  Craigs  there,  which  the  countrey  people  make  up  into 
balls,  but  the  way  of  making  them  I  know  not,  this  they  call 
Cork  lit  and  make  use  thereof  for  litting  or  dying  a  kind  of 
purple  colour.  There  is  also  in  the  said  parish  another 
excrescence  which  they  get  from  the  roots  of  trees,  and  call  it 
Woodraw,  it  is  a  kind  of  fog  or  moss  with  a  broad  leaf,  this 
they  make  use  of  to  lit  or  dy  a  kind  of  Orange  or  Philamort 
Colour.  I  shall  end  this  head  by  telling  you  that  the  year 
after  our  arable  Land  is  turned  into  grass,  it  abounds  and  is 
almost  overspread  with  Digitalis  or  Foxgloves,  the  countrey 
people  call  them  Fox  tree  leaves,  or  Deadmens  fingers,  some 
whereof  have  white  flowers;  as  also  with  a  small  sorrell,  and 
very  commonly  also  with  the  lesser  Asperula  and  with  ornith- 
opodium  or  birds  foot,  by  which  you  may  easily  guess  at  the 
nature  of  the  ground. 

As  concerning  animals  I  can  say  nothing  save  that  this 
countrey  consisting  both  of  Moors  and  Valley  grounds  along 
the  sea  shore.  We  have  such  as  are  usually  found  in  the  like 
places ;  As  in  the  Moors  we  have  plenty  of  Moorfowles,  Part- 
ridges, Tarmakens,  &c.  In  our  hills  and  Boggs,  foxes  good 
store.  In  our  Lochs  and  Bourns  otters  ;  Neer  the  sea  several  1 
sorts  of  wildgeese,  Wildducks,  Ateales,  small  teales,  Sea  maws, 
Gormaws  and  another  fowl  which  I  know  not  the  name  of,  it  is 
about  the  bigness  of  a  pigeon,  it  is  black  and  hath  an  rid  bill. 
I  have  seen  it  haunting  about  the  Kirk  of  Mochrum. 

As  to  the  third  Querie  concerning  Forrests,  I  can  say,  but 
little,  save  that  there  is  in  parish  of  Monnygaffe  a  forrest  or 
two,  wherein  are  also  some  Deer,  but  of  their  bounds  or  juris- 
dictions I  cannot  give  any  certain  or  particular  account. 
There  is  also  in  the  parish  of  Sorbie,  betwixt  the  kirks  of 
Kirkinner  &  Sorbie  a  large  Moor,  called  the  Forrest  Moor, 
but  why  so  called  I  know  not,  except  it  be,  as  the  people  say, 
because  there  was  long  since  a  great  wood  growing  therein 
.  though  at  present  there  is  not  one  tree  growing  there,  unless 
two  or  three  bushes  may  be  caird  so.  And  here  I  shall  add  that 
up  and  down  the  whole  countrey,  I  have  observed  many  Haw- 
thorne trees  growing  in  several  places,  the  boughs  or  branches 
of  which  trees,  (and  many  times  the  bole  too)  I  have  observed 


GALLOWAY  107 

growing  or  inclining  towards  the  South  East.  The  countrey 
people  commonly  account  the  cutting  down  of  those  trees 
ominous,  and  tell  many  stories  of  accidents  that  have  befallen 
such  as  have  attempted  it,  especially  those  trees  of  the  greater 
sort,  Why  they  have  such  a  regard  to  those  trees  I  know  not, 
only  I  remember  to  have  read  in  Heylen,  in  his  description  of 
vEgypt,  who  speaking  of  the  Palmtree,  tells  us  that  the  nature 
thereof  is,  that  though  never  so  ponderous  a  weight  were  put 
upon  it,  It  yeilds  not  to  the  burden  ;  but  still  resists  the  heavi- 
nes  of  it,  and  endeavours  to  lift  up,  and  raise  itselfe,  the  more 
upwards ;  for  which  cause,  saith  he,  it  was  planted  in  church- 
yards, in  the  eastern  countreys,  as  an  Emblem  of  the  Resur- 
rection ;  instead  whereof  we  use  the  Ewtree  planted  in  church- 
yards, as  also  very  often  the  Hawthorntree,  which  is  also 
something  of  the  nature  of  the  Palmtree,  upon  which  account 
perhaps  at  first  the  people  had  a  respect  thereto,  and  now 
esteem  it  ominous  to  cut  it  down. 

As  to  that  part  of  the  Querie  concerning  springs  and  their 
medicinal  qualities,  I  can  say  nothing  save  only  what  hath 
been  said  in  the  description  of  the  severall  parishes;  as  also 
that  there  are  very  many  excellent  springs  in  this  Countrey, 
affording  great  plenty  of  excellent  good  water.  Severall  of 
them,  the  countrey  people  according  to  their  fancy,  alledge  to 
be  usefull  against  severall  deseases,  being  made  use  of  on  such 
particular  days  of  the  quarter,  which  superstitious  custome  I 
cannot  allow  of,  and  yet  I  doubt  not  but  there  are  severall 
medicinal  wells  in  this  countrey,  if  they  were  sought  out  and 
experimented  by  men  capable  to  Judge  thereanent. 

As  to  that  part  of  the  Querie  concerning  Parks  I  can  only 
say  that  the  Park  of  Baldone  is  the  Cheife,  yea  I  may  say  the 
first,  and  as  it  were  the  mother  of  all  the  rest ;  Sir  David 
Dunbar  being  the  first  man  that  brought  parks  to  be  in  request 
in  this  countrey,  but  now  many  others  finding  the  great  benefit 
thereof,  have  followed  his  example  as  the  Earl  of  Galloway, 
Sir  William  Maxwell,  Sir  Godfrey  McCulloch,  Sir  James  Dai- 
ry m  pie,  the  Laird  of  Logan,  and  many  others  who  have  their 
Parks  or  enclosed  grounds,  throughout  the  whole  Shire. 

As  concerning  Rivers,  the  principal  are  Orr,  Dee,  Kenn, 
Fleet,  Cree,  Blaidnoch,  Luce  or  Glenluce  and  Paltanton. 


108  GALLOWAY 

Orr  hath  its  rise  from  Lochurr  or  Lochorr,  which  Loch  is 
situated  betwixt  the  parish  of  Balmaclellan,  on  the  Westside 
and  the  parishes  of  Glencairne  and  Dunscore  on  the  Eastside. 
In  this  Loch  there  is  an  old  ruinous  Castle  with  planting  of 
Sauch  or  Willow  trees  for  the  most  part  about  it,  where  many 
wildgeese  and  other  waterfowles  breed,  to  this  place  there  is 
an  entrie  from  Dunscore  side,  by  a  causey,  which  is  covered 
with  water  knee  deep.  This  Loch  is  replenished  with  pikes : 
Many  salmon  also  are  found  there  at  spawning  time;  from  this 
Loch  the  river  comes  and  dividing  the  parishes  of  Glencarne, 
Dunscore,  Kirkpatrick-Durham,  Orr  and  Kowend,  on  the  East- 
side,  from  the  parishes  of  Balmaclellan,  Partan,  Corsemichael 
Bootle  and  a  point  of  Dundranen  on  the  other  side.  This  river 
is  observed  to  be  in  all  places  of  it,  both  from  head  to  foot 
about  twelve  miles  distant  from  the  town  of  Drumfreis ;  except 
you  go  from  the  foot  of  Cowend  under  the  Fell  calPd  Crustad- 
fell  by  the  way  of  Kirkbeen, 

way,  and  then  it  will  be  fourteen 

distant  from  it,  and  the  town  of  Drumfreis.  This  river  is 
foordable  in  many  places  being  foordable  also 

when  the  tide  obstructs  not,  although  at 
spring  tides  the  sea  water  flows  up. 

however  if  the  water  be  at  any  time  great,  there  is  a  stone- 
bridge  over  it,  called  the  bridge  of  Orr,  which  joines  the 
parishes  of  Kirkpatrick-Durham  and  Corsemichael  together. 

Kenn,  hath  its  rise  in  the  shire  of  Nithisdale,  not  far  from 
the  head  of  the  water  of  Skarr  in  the  said  shire,  and  running 
westward  divides  the  parish  of  Corsefairn  from  Dairy  and  then 
turning  Southwards  it  divides  the  parishes  of  Dairy  and  Bal- 
maclelland  from  the  parish  of  the  Kells  ;  It  joynes  the  river  of 
Dee  at  a  place  called  the  boat  of  the  Rone,  four  miles  beneath 
the  New  town  of  Galloway. 

Dee  hath  its  rise  from  Loch  Dee  at  the  head  of  the  parish 
of  Monnygaffe  bordering  upon 

and  coming  from  thence  hath 

on  the  westside  the  parishes  of  Monnygaffe,  Girthton,  Bal- 
niaghie,  Tongueland,  Twynam  and  part  of  Borgue.  On  the 
Eastside,  it  hath  the  parishes  of  Corsefairne,  Kells,  Partan, 
Corsemichael,  Kelton,  Kirkcudburgh,  and  empties  itself  into 


GALLOWAY  109 

the  sea  about  two  miles  beneath  the  town  of  Kirkcudburg  at 

an  Island  calPd  the  Ross.     This  River  is  navigable  by  ships 

of  a  great  burthen  from  its  mouth  to  the  town  of  Kirkcud- 

btirgh  and  higher.     This  River  is  abundantly  plenished  with 

excellent  salmon.     Towards  the  mouth  whereof  Thomas  Lid- 

derdail  of  Isle  hath  a  large  fishyard  wherein  he  gets  abundance 

of  salmon  and  many  other  fish.     Two  miles  above  the  said 

town  of  Kirkcudburgh   at   the  Abbacy  of  Tongueland,  just 

where  a  rivulet  called  the  water  of  Tarfle  empties  itself  into 

the  river  of  Dee,  are  great  Rocks  and  Craigs,  that  in  a  dry 

summer  do  hinder  the  salmon  from  going  higher  up,  and  here 

it  is  that  Vicecount  of  Kenmuir  as  Bayly  to  the  Abbacy  of 

Tongueland  hath  priviledge  of  a  Bayly-day,  and  fenceth  the 

river  for  eight  or  ten  days  in  the  summer  time  prohibiting  all 

persons  whatsoever  to  take  any  salmon  in  that  space  so  that 

at  the  day  appointed,  if  it  have  been  a  dry  season,  there  is  to 

be  had  excellent  pastime ;  the  said  Vicecount  with  his  friends 

and  a  multitude  of  other  people  coming  thither  to  the  fishing 

of  salmon  which  being  enclosed  in  pooles  and  places  among 

the  Rocks,  men  go  in  and  catch  in  great  aboundance  with  their  iso. 

hands,  speares,  listers  &c  yea  and  with  their  very  dogs.     At 

this  place  upon  the  rocks  on  the  Riverside  are  a  great  variety 

of  very  good  herbs  growing.     I  have  heard  it  reported,  how 

true  I   know   not,  that  it  was  this  place  and   the  situation 

thereof,  which  contributed  towards  the  quickening  of  Captain 

Alexander  Montgomerie   his   fancie,   when   he   composed  the 

Poem  entituled  the  Cherrie  and  the  Slae.     In  this  river  about 

Balmaghie  are  sometimes  gotten  excellent  pearles  out  of  the 

great  muscle,  and  I  am  informed  that  Master  Scot  of  Bristow 

hath  one  of  them  of  a  considerable  value.     In  this  river  is  an 

Island  calTd  the  Threave,  but  of  this  I  have  already  spoken  in 

the  description  of  the  parish  of  Balmaghie.    About 

above  the  said    Island    of   the  Threave  this  river  is  a  deep 

Loch  which  Loch  extends  itself  into  the  river  of  Kenn  and 

reaches  as  far  as  the  Castle  of  Kenmuir,  in  the  parish  of  the 

Kells  to  another  residence  of  his  in  the  parish  of  Corsemichael, 

called  the  Greenlaw  lying  on  the  Eastside  of  Dee,  yea  so  neer 

to  it  that  sometimes  the  inundation  of  the  river  comes  into 

his  cellars  and  lower  roomes.     The  distance  betwixt  the  saids 


110  GALLOWAY 

two  houses  of  Kenmuir  and  Greenlaw,  which  is  also  the  length 
of  the  said  Loch,  will  be  about  eight  miles. 

Fleet.  This  River  hath  its  rise  in  the  parish  of  Girthton,  and 
dividing  the  parish  of  Girthton,  on  its  Eastside,  from  the  parish 
of  Anwoth  on  its  Westside,  empties  itself  into  the  sea  near 
the  Castle  of  Cardonnes  in  the  parish  of  Anwoth.  This  river 
towards  the  mouth  of  it  abounds  with  many  good  fish,  also  at 
the  mouth  of  it  are  some  little  Islands  called  the  Isles  of  Fleet. 

Cree.  This  River  hath  its  rise  from  Lochmuan  in  the  parish 
of  Cammonell  in  Carrick,  and  dividing  the  parishes  of  Monny- 
gaffe  and  Kirkmabreck  on  its  Eastside  from  the  parishes  of 
Cammonell  and  Penygham  on  its  Westside,  empties  itself  into 
the  sea  beneath  Wigton.  In  that  part  of  this  river  which 
divides  Cammonel  from  Mony gaffe  I  have  seen  severall  pearles 
taken  out  of  the  great  muscle.  There  is  another  river  called 
Munnach,  which  hath  its  rise  from  the  hills  of  Carrick,  and 
131.  after  many  flexures  and  turnings,  for  in  the  road  betwixt  the 
Rownetree  bourne  in  Carrick  and  Palgowne  in  Monnygaffe 
parish  which  will  be  about  the  space  of  four  miles ;  this  River 
of  Munnach  is  crossed,  if  I  remember  right,  about  sixteen  or 
seven  ten  times.  It  empties  itself  into  the  river  of  Cree,  at  a 
foord  callM  the  Blackwrack  about  six  miles  from  Monygaffe,  at 
which  place  beginns  the  Loch  of  Cree,  about  three  miles  long 
or  thereby,  at  the  foot  whereof  William  Stewart  of  Castle 
Stewart  hath  cruives  wherein  he  gets  good  salmon.  Upon  the 
East  bank  of  this  Loch  grows  that  excellent  Oak  wood,  which 
I  spoke  of  in  the  description  of  Monygaffe,  opposite  w here- 
unto viz.  on  the  West  side  of  the  said  Loch  in  the  parish  of 
Penygham  the  said  Will™1  Stewart  hath  a  wood,  which  in 
time  may  produce  good  timber,  but  it  is  far  inferior  to  the 
other.  There  is  another  Rivulet  called  Pinkill  bourn,  that 
having  its  rise  in  the  said  parish  of  Monnygaffe,  empties  itself 
into  the  river  of  Cree,  just  betwixt  the  town  and  church  of 
Monnygaffe  and  here  again  are  good  salmon  caught  with  nets 
as  also  at  other  places  betwixt  the  towne  of  Monnygaffe  and 
Macchirmore,  &  which  place  being  about  a  short  mile  dis- 
tant from  Monnygaffe,  there  is  a  foord  calle  the  foord  of 
Macchirmore,  unto  which  the  tide  comes  and  to  which  little 
barks  may  come  also  though  more  than  six  miles  from  the  sea 


GALLOWAY  111 

in  recta  linea,  but  much  further  if  we  count  the  flexures  of  the 
said  River,  which  at  high  water  do  something  resemble  the 
Crooks  of  the  water  of  Forth  betwixt  Sterling  and  Alloa. 
This  foord  is  the  first  foord  from  the  mouth  of  Cree,  except 
the  foord  against  Wigton  of  which  more  hereafter.  At  this 
foord  of  Macchirmore  in  the  month  of  March  are  usually 
taken  great  quantities  of  large  Spirlings,  the  head  of  this  fish, 
when  boy  led  hath  been  observed  to  yeild  severall  little  bones 
resembling  all  the  severall  sorts  of  instruments  that  shoe- 
makers make  use  of.  Two  miles  beneath  this  foord  of  Maechir- 
more,  there  is  another  Rivulet  called  Palm ure  which  empties 
itself  into  the  river  of  Cree  it  hath  its  rise  in  the  hills  of 
Monuygaffe  ;  and  four  miles  distant  from  the  towne  of  Monny- 
gaffe,  it  runns  over  a  precipice  betwixt  two  Rocks :  and  is 
there  call'd  the  Grae- mares-tail  which  is  just  beside  a  great  IM. 
Rock  caird  the  Saddle-loup,  at  which,  it  being  the  road  way, 
horsemen  must  alight  for  fear  of  falling  off  their  horses,  or 
rather  least  horse  and  man  both  fall,  and  never  rise  again ; 
And  here  it  is  to  be  observed  that  in  Timothy  Ponts  Mapp 
(which  I  have  only  seen  of  late,  and  long  after  the  first  writing 
of  these  Papers)  those  two  names  viz.  The  Gray- mares- tail  and 
the  Saddle-loup  are  joyned  together,  and  call'd  by  him,  the 
Graymearstail  of  the  Sadillowip,  whereas  the  first  viz.  the 
Gray-mares-tail  is  the  name  of  the  water  running  down  be- 
twixt the  two  Rocks  which  in  the  falling  down  resembles  the 
taill  of  a  white  or  gray  horse,  and  the  name  of  the  other  viz. 
the  Saddle-loup  is  the  name  of  a  rock  hard  by  and  so  called 
for  the  Reason  before  specified.  Observe  also  that  the  name 
that  he  gives  it  is  very  ill  spell'd,  yea  in  that  Map  and  Blaws 
Map  too,  which  also  I  have  only  seen  of  late,  the  name  of 
places  are  so  very  ill  spelPd,  that  although  I  was  very  well 
acquainted  with  the  bounds,  yet  it  was  a  long  time  before  I 
could  understand  the  particular  places  designed  in  that,  and 
in  some  other  of  his  Maps.  And  hence  we  may  also  observe 
that  in  Maps  and  descriptions  of  this  nature,  it  is  hardly 
possible,  after  the  greatest  care  and  diligence,  to  be  exact, 
especially  where  we  must  of  necessitie  make  use  of  informations 
which  we  receave  from  severall  hands,  and  therefore  these 
papers  upon  the  same  account  being  liable  to  mistakes,  the 


112  GALLOWAY 


Reader  will,  I  hope,  be  inclineable  to  pass  them  by,  they  being- 
almost  unavoidable. 

Beneath  the  influx  of  Palmure  into  the  river  of  Cree,  there 
is  another  Rivulet  call'd  Graddock,  which  hath  its  rise  east- 
ward in  the  great  mountain  of  Cairnesmuir  and  dividing  the 
parish  of  Monnygaffe  from  the  parish  of  Kirkmabreck,  empties 
itself  into  the  river  of  Cree.  This  River  of  Cree  at  high  water 
will  be  three  miles  over,  as  reaching  betwixt  Wigton  in  the 
West,  and  Kirkmabreck  alms  Ferriton  in  the  East,  but  at  low 
water  the  river  containes  itself  in  lesser  bounds,  being  not  a 
133.  bow  draught  over  from  the  East  bank  of  the  Ferriton  to  the 
West  bank  towards  the  sands  of  Wigton.  This  place  at  low 
water  is  foordable  ;  but  I  would  advise  any  that  comes  there,, 
not  to  ride  it,  unless  he  have  an  expert  guide  to  wade  before 
him,  it  being  very  dangerous  not  only  in  the  foord  of  the 
River,  but  also  on  the  banks  thereof,  as  also  in  the  sands 
betwixt  and  Wigton.  for  even  on  the  sands  about  half  way 
betwixt  the  foord  and  Wigton  there  is  a  bourn  called  the 
Bishop  bourn  having  its  rise  in  the  parish  of  Penygham  and 
dividing  that  parish  from  the  parish  of  Wigton  empties  itself 
into  those  sands,  may  occasion  prejudice  to  a  stranger,  unless 
he  have  a  good  guide. 

Blaidnoch.  This  River  hath  its  rise  from  a  Loch  called 
Lochmaberrie,  in  the  parish  of  Kirkcowan  bordering  upon 
Cammonell  in  Carrick  and  running  southward  divides  the 
parish  of  Kirkcowan  in  the  West  from  the  parish  of  Penygham 
in  the  East  and  then  runneth  Eastwardly  dividing  the  parish 
of  Kirkinner  on  the  southside  from  a  corner  of  Penygham,  and 
the  parish  of  Wigton  on  the  North,  and  running  on  the  south- 
side  of  the  towne  of  Wigton,  empties  itself  into  the  sea,  or  else 
into  Cree  on  the  sands  of  Wigton.  There  is  a  lesser  Rivulet 
called  the  water  of  Tarfle  that  hath  its  rise  about  the  North- 
west part  of  Kirkcowan  and  for  a  while  running  southwardly 
divides  the  said  Parish  of  Kirkcowan  from  the  parish  of  Glen- 
luce,  and  then  bending  its  streams  more  eastwardly,  it  runs 
wholly  in  the  parish  of  Kirkcowan,  hard  by  the  southside  of 
the  said  parish  kirk,  where  at  a  place  call'd  Lincuan,  the  Laird 
of  Craichlaw  hath  a  salmon  fishing,  where  sometimes  he  takes 
a  good  salmon  with  nets,  from  this  place  the  said  Water  of 


GALLOWAY  113 

L'arfle  runs  still  Eastward  and  a  large  halfe  mile  or  more  from 
Lincuan,  It  empties  itself  into  the  river  of  Blaidnoch.  About 
i  mile  above  the  meetings  of  which  two  waters  at  a  place 
:aird  the  mill  of  Barhoshe.  On  the  river  of  Blaidnoch,  the 
aid  Laird  of  Craichlaw  hath  another  salmon  Fishing.  About 
;wo  miles  beneath  the  meetings,  the  Laird  of  Grainge  hath 
mother  salmon  Fishing;  beneath  which  at  severall  places  in  134. 
;he  said  River  the  Laird  of  Dereagill  on  Kirkinner  side,  and 
:he  Laird  of  Torhouse  on  Wigton  side,  have  several!  places 
vhere  they  take  salmon  by  nets,  both  which  Lairds  have  an 
.'quail  interest  therein,  and  some  years  by  mutual  agreement, 
:hey  fish  day  about,  some  years  again  they  iish  together  and 
iivide  their  fish  equally.  There  is  also  another  Rivulet  called 
:he  Water  of  Malzow  or  Malyie.  which  hath  its  rise  at  the 
Loch  of  Mochrum,  and  running  eastward,  it  empties  itself 
into  the  river  of  Blaidnoch  about  a  mile  beneath  the  house  of 
Dereagill  in  the  parish  of  Kirkinner.  At  the  head  of  this 
Hivulet  of  Malzow  are  many  Eelles  taken  about  Martimas> 
ivhich  they  salt,  with  their  skins,  in  barrells,  and  then  in  the 
Winter  time,  eat  them  roasted  upon  the  coals,  and  then  only 
pilling  off  their  skins.  This  rivulet  hath  also  plenty  of  trouts. 
rhere  is  also  another  Rivulet  call'd  Milldriggen  Bourn,  that 
liath  its  rise  above  the  place  of  Barnbarroch,  the  residence  of 
Pohn  Vaus  of  Barnbarroch  in  the  parish  of  Kirkinner  and 
running  Eastwards  enters  into  the  park  of  Baldone  at  the 
Bridge  of  Milldriggen,  and  dividing  the  said  park  of  Baldone, 
ifter  many  windings  and  turnings,  empties  itself  into  the  river 
>f  Blaidnoch  just  opposit  to  the  town  of  Wigton,  this  Rivulet 
is  also  stored  with  Eels  and  trouts.  This  River  of  Blaidnoch  is 
stored  with  excellent  salmon,  the  Earl  of  Galloway  possessing 
the  whole  benefit  thereof  from  the  mouth  of  the  said  river  to  . 
the  lands  of  Torhouse  in  the  parish  of  Wigton.  The  salmon 
fishing  in  this  River  is  not  very  good  in  a  dry  year  especially 
from  Torhouse  and  upwards,  because  the  salmon  cannot  swim 
up  for  want  of  water,  but  in  wet  years,  it  commonly  affords 
Ljjood  store.  I  remember  to  have  seen  a  fish  which  the  fishers 
took  with  their  nets,  in  the  salt  water  of  this  river  beside 
Wigton,  they  call'd  it  to  me  a  young  whale,  it  was  about  three 
or  four  foot  long,  smooth  all  over  without  scales  and  of  a  135. 

VOL.  II.  H 


114  GALLOWAY 

blackish  colour,  if  I  remember  right,  however  sure  I  am  it  had 
no  gills,  but  ane  open  place  upon  the  crowne  of  the  head, 
instead  of  Gills,  it  was  a  female,  the  sign  thereof  being  ap- 
parent at  the  first  view,  they  made  oyll  of  it.  I  got  about  a 
pint  of  it  from  them  which  was  very  clear  and  good,  and  burnt 
very  weel  in  a  lamp.  I  also  once  saw  a  sturgeon,  which  some 
one  or  other  of  Wigton  had  found  dead  on  the  sands  there,  it 
had  large  boney  scales  on  it,  one  of  which  I  have.  About  the 
year  1674,  there  was  a  pretty  large  whale,  which  came  up  this 
river  of  Blaidnoch,  and  was  kilPd  upon  the  sands,  I  did  not 
see  it,  but  saw  severall  peices  of  it  for  the  countrey  people  ran 
upon  it,  and  cut  as  much  as  they  could  bring  away  and  made 
oyle  of  it,  which  many  persons  got  good  of,  but  I  am  told 
if  it  had  been  managed  right  and  not  cut  so  in  peeces  as  it 
was,  it  might  have  been  improved  to  a  far  greater  advantage ; 
the  oyl  that  I  saw  and  made  use  of,  was  very  good  and  clear 
and  burnt  very  well  in  my  Lamp. 

Glenluce  or  Luce.  This  River  hatli  rise  in  the  parish  of 
Cammonell,  in  Carrict,  and  running  southwardly  to  the  new 
Kirk  of  Glenluce,  meets  there  with  another  water  called  the 
Crossewater  which  also  hath  its  rise  in  the  parish  of  Cam- 
monel  in  Carrict,  from  the  said  new  Kirk  of  Glenluce  it 
runnes  southward  by  the  Westside  of  the  precincts  of  the 
Abbacie  of  Glenluce,  and  then  half  a  mile  and  more  beneath 
that,  on  the  Eastside  of  Park  Hay  belonging  to  Sir  Charles 
Hay  of  Park  Hay  and  from  thence  runs  still  southward,  till 
it  empties  itself  into  the  sea  on  the  large  and  vast  sands  of 
Glenluce,  towards  the  foot  of  this  River  of  Glenluce  Sir 
Charles  Hay  hath  a  fish-yard  wherein  he  gets  salmon,  and 
sometimes  great  plenty  of  herring  and  Mackreels. 
136.  Paltanton.  This  is  a  small  River  having  its  rise  in  the 
parish  of  Portpatrick  and  running  southeastward  dividing  the 
parishes  of  Portpatrick  and  Stoniekirk  on  the  Southside  from 
the  parishes  of  Laswalt,  Inch,  and  Glenluce  on  the  northside, 
it  empties  itself  into  the  sea,  on  the  sands  of  Glenluce.  This 
river  is  not  very  broad  but  it  is  pretty  deep  in  regard  it  runs 
through  a  clayie  sandie  ground  and  therfore  strangers  should 
have  a  care,  when  they  ride  the  foords  thereof.  This  River 
abounds  with  pikes  and  hath  some  salmon  at  the  mouth  thereof. 


GALLOWAY  115 

As  to   the  fourth   Querie,   What  Roads,   Bays,   Ports  for 

Shipping  &°  Answ.  As  for  the  Stewartry  neer  the  mouth  of 

the  water  of  Orr,  in  the  parish  of  Dundranen,  or  Rerick,  not 

far  from  a  place  called  Airdsheugh  is  a  very  safe  harbour  for 

ships  called  Balcarie,  not  far  from  which  is  the  Isle  of  Haston 

spoken  of  in  the  description  of  the  Parish  of  Rerick.     At  the 

mouth  of  Dee  beneath  Saint  Marie  Isle,  where  the  river  will 

be  half  a  mile  broad,  there  is  a  great  Bay  within  land,  where 

whole  fleets  may  safely   ly   at   anchor.     As  for  the  shire  of 

Wigton.     At  Wigton  with  a  spring  tide,  and  a  good  Pilot  a 

ship  of  a  considerable  burden  may  be  brought  up,  and  easily 

disburdened.     Betwixt  Wigton  and  Innerwell  or  Enderwell  in 

the  parish  of  Sorbie,  which   I  suppose,  will  be  about  three 

miles  in  recta  lined,  at  low  water,  is  to  be  seen  nothing  but  a 

large  plaine  of  sandie  clay :  but  at  Innerwell,  ships  of  great 

burthen  may  safely  put  in ;  from  whence  doubling  the  point  of 

Cruglton,  till  you  come  to  the  Isle  of  Whitherne,  the  coast  is 

for  the  most  part  rockie,  but  the  Isle  of  Whitherne,  haveing  a 

narrow  entry,  yeilds  a  safe  secure  and  advantageous  port  to 

ships  of  a  great  burthen  against  all  storms ;  From  thence  the 

coast  of  Whithern,  Glasserton,  Mochrum  and  part  of  Glenluce 

is  Rockie,  but  coming  to  the  Bay  of  Glenluce,  you  will  find  a 

large   Bay,  and  dry  sand  when  at   low  water,  then   turning 

southward  along   the   coast   of  Stoniekirk  and  Kirkmaiden, 

which  runs  to  the  Mule  of  Galloway,  the  shore  is  sandie,  and  137. 

except  at  high  water,  you  may  ride  for  the  space  of  twelve 

miles,  or  thereby,  betwixt  the  sea  and  shore  upon  a  plain  even 

dry  sand,  and  hardly  so  much  as  a  pebble  stone  to  trouble  you. 

This  Bay  or  Loch  of  Glenluce  or  Luce,  Speed  in  his  Mapps 

miscalls  L.  Lowys.     About  four  or  five  leagues  distant  from 

this  place  in  the  sea  are  two  great  Rocks  though  the  one  be 

greater  than  the  other,  called   Bigskarr.     The  point  of  the 

Mule  is  a  great  rock,  on  which,  as  I  have  been  often  informed, 

such  as  sail  by  it  in  a  dark  night,  have  observed  a  great  light, 

which  hath  occasioned  some  to  say,  that  there  is  a  rock  of 

Diamonds   there,   however  the    sea  at  this   point   is  of  times 

very  boisterous.     Turning  about  to  the  Westside  of  the  Mule, 

towards  Ireland,  the  shore  is  rockie  till  you  come  to  Port- 

nessock  in  the  parish  of  Kirkmaiden,  where  Robert  McDowall 


116  GALLOWAY 

younger  of  Logan  hath  been  at  great  paines  and  expences  to 
build  a  port  for  ships  and  barks  cast  in  that  way.  The  Coast 
from  thence  to  Portpatrick  is  rockie.  Portpatrick  itself  is  the 
ordinary  port  where  the  barks  come  in  with  passengers  from 
Ireland  from  whence  it  is  distant,  as  they  say,  about  ten 
leagues.  From  Portpatrick  to  the  mouth  of  Lochryan  the 
coast  is  also  rocky.  The  said  Lochrian  is  a  very  large  Bay 
wherein  an  whole  fleet  of  the  greatest  burthen  may  cast 
anchor;  it  will  be  about  two  miles  or  thereby  over,  at  the 
mouth,  but  then  it  will  be  about  six  or  seaven  miles  long  and 
about  four  miles  broad.  Ships  may  put  to  shore  at  the 
Claddow  house  in  the  parish  of  Inch,  as  also  at  the  town 
of  Stranraver  which  is  at  the  head  or  southend  of  the  said 
Loch.  As  to  that  part  of  the  Querie,  what  Moon  causeth 
highwater.  I  cannot  give  an  exact  account,  but  I  conceave 
that  a  south  moon  maketh  high  water  about  Wigton  and 
Whithern,  for  I  have  observed  them  frequently  saying 

Full  Moon  through  light.     Full  sea  at  Midnight. 

The  seas  have  plenty  of  fish,  such  as  salmon,  fleuks,  solefleuks 
188.  Tarbets,  sea  eeles,  whitings  &c.  these  are  taken  between 
Wigton  and  the  Ferriton  some  in  the  half  net  formerly 
described,  some  in  cups  h'xt  on  the  sands  neer  to  the  Channel 
of  the  river  of  Cree.  On  the  sands  of  Kirkinner  are  great 
multitudes  of  Cockles,  which  in  the  year  1674,  preserved  many 
poor  people  from  starving.  Further  down  the  sands,  neer  the 
sea  they  take  Keilling  and  Skait,  by  hooks  baited  and  laid 
upon  the  sands,  which  they  get  at  low  water.  At  Polton  in 
the  months  of  July,  August,  and  September  are  sometimes 
great  quantities  of  Herring  and  Mack  reels  taken  with  nets. 
On  the  Coast  of  Whitehern,  Glasserton  and  Mochrum,  they 
take  Cronands,  Codlings,  Lyths,  Scathes  or  Glassons,  Mack- 
reels  by  hook  and  bait  in  boats  &c.  On  the  mouth  of  the 
Water  of  Luce,  they  take  Salmon,  Herring,  and  Mackreels  in 
a  fishyard  belonging  to  Sir  Charles  Hay  of  Park  Hay  as  I  for- 
merly said.  On  the  sands  of  Luce  they  get  abundance  of  the 
longshelPd  fish  calTd  the  spoutfish ;  the  man  that  takes  them, 
hath  a  small  iron  rod,  in  his  hand,  pointed  at  one  end  like  an 
hooked  dart,  and  treading  on  the  sands  and  going  backward. 


GALLOWAY  117 

he  exactly  knows  where  the  fish  is,  which  is  deep  in  the  sands, 
and  stands  perpendicular  Whereupon  he  thrusts  down  his  iron 
rod  quite  through  the  fish  betwixt  the  two  shells,  and  then  by 
the  pointed  hook,  he  brings  up  the  fish.  On  these  sands  I  have 
seen  many  shells  of  severall  sizes  and  shapes,  but  I  pretend  no 
great  skill  in  Ichthuologie  and  therefore  cannot  give  you  their 
names.  In  the  parish  of  Kirkcolme  they  take  many  keilling 
and  skait,  and  sea  carps  with  hook  and  line ;  they  have  also 
there  many  good  oysters,  which  they  get  at  low  water  without 
any  trouble.  In  the  Loch  of  Lochrian,  there  is  some  years  a 
great  herring  fishing  and  upon  the  Coast  thereabout  they 
take  very  good  lobsters,  and  some  of  them  incredibly  great. 
In  short  our  sea  is  better  stored  with  good  fish,  than  our  shoar 
is  furnished  with  good  fishers  for  having  such  plenty  of  flesh  on 
the  shore,  they  take  litle  paines  to  seek  the  sea  for  fish.  I 
have  also  heard  them  say,  that  it  hath  been  observed,  that  139. 
the  sea  and  the  land  are  not  usually  plentifull  both  in  one 
year,  but  whither  their  plenty  at  land  occasions  them  to.  say 
so,  I  know  not. 

As  to  the  fifth  Querie,  concerning  Monuments  Forts  and 
Camps,  excepting  King  Galdus  tomb,  already  spoken  to  in  the 
description  of  the  parish  of  Wigton,  I  can  say  nothing  unless 
it  be  to  tell  you,  that  in  a  very  large  plaine  calTd  the  Green 
of  Macchirmore,  halfe  a  mile  to  the  southeastward  of  Monny- 
gaffe,  there  are  severall  Cairnes  of  hand  stones,  which  if  I 
mistake  not,  denote  that  some  great  battail  or  camp  hath  been 
there,  that  space  of  plain  ground  being,  as  I  conjecture,  suffi- 
cient for  threescore  thousand  men  to  draw  up  in ;  but  I  could 
never  learn  from  any  person  what  particular  battel  or  camp 
had  been  there.  I  have  also  observed  severall  green  hillocks 
called  by  the  countrey  people  Moates,  as  particularly  on  the 
Westside  of  Blaidnoch  in  the  Baronie  of  Clugstone  pertaining 
to  the  Earl  of  Galloway,  another  at  the  Kirk  of  MonnygafFe, 
another  at  the  Kirk  of  Mochrum,  another  at  the  place  of 
Myrton  pertaining  to  Sir  William  Maxwell  of  Muirveith,  the 
one  end  of  the  said  place  of  Myrton  being  built  on  it,  another 
neer  the  house  of  Balgreggen  in  the  parish  of  Stoniekirk,  all 
which  have  had  trenches  about  them,  and  have  been  all 
artificial!,  but  when  or  for  what  use  they  were  made,  I  know  not. 


118  GALLOWAY 

As  to  the  sixt  Querie  concerning  battells  I  can  say  nothing ; 
as  to  that  part  of  the  Querie  concerning  memorable  accidents, 
what  I  know  or  have  been  informed  of,  you  may  find  in  the 
description  of  particular  parishes. 

As  to  the  seventh  Querie  concerning  particular  customes  &c 
I  have  already  given  an  account  of  their  husbandry  and 
occasionly  also  of  some  other  things.  I  now  think  fitt  to  add 
these  following  particulars.  Their  Marriages  are  commonly 
celebrated  on  Tuesdays  or  Thursdays.  I  myself  have  married 
neer  450  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  countrey  all  of  which 
140.  except  seaven,  were  married  upon  a  Tuesday  or  Thursday. 
And  it  is  looked  upon  as  a  strange  thing  to  see  a  marriage 
upon  any  other  days,  yea  and  for  the  most  part  also  their 
marriages  are  all  celebrated  crescente  Luna. 

As  for  their  burialls,  I  have  not  observed  any  peculiarity  in 
them  save  this  which  I  have  frequently  observed  at  the 
burialls  of  the  common  people  viz.  as  soon  as  ever  the  dead 
corp  is  taken  out  of  the  house  in  order  to  its  carrying  to  the 
churchyard,  some  persons  left  behind  take  out  the  bedstraw 
on  which  the  person  dyed,  and  burne  the  same  at  a  little 
distance  from  the  house,  there  may  be  perhaps  some  reason  for 
the  burning  thereof  to  prevent  infection,  but  why  it  should  be 
don  just  at  that  time,  I  know  not  well,  unless  it  be  to  give 
advertisement  to  any  of  the  people  who  dwell  in  the  way 
betwixt  and  the  Churchyard,  to  come  and  attend  the 
buriall. 

The  common  people  are  for  the  most  part  great  chewers  of 
Tobacco  and  are  so  much  addicted  to  it,  that  they  will  ask  a 
peece  thereof  even  from  a  stranger,  as  he  is  riding  on  the  way. 
And  therefore  let  not  a  traveller  want  an  ounce  or  two  of 
Roll  Tobacco  in  his  pocket  and  for  an  Inch  or  two  thereof,  he 
need  not  fear  the  want  of  a  guide  ether  by  night  or  day. 

The  Moor-men  have  a  custome  of  barrelling  whey  :  which 
is  thus  don.  When  the  Whey  is  pressed  from  the  curds,  they 
let  it  settle  and  then  pour  off  the  thin  clear  Whey  into  a 
barrell  or  hogshead  which  will  work  and  ferment  there  ;  the 
next  time  they  make  the  cheese,  they  do  the  like  and  so  daylv 
pour  in  the  Whey  into  the  barrell  till  it  be  full,  this  they  close 
up,  and  keep  it  till  winter  and  springtime,  all  which  they  have 


GALLOWAY  119 

but  little  milk,  yea  it  will  keep  a  twelve  month,  but  it  will  be 
very  sour  and  sharp,  a  mutch  in  whereof  being  mixt  with  a 
pint  of  spring  Water,  makes  a  drink  which  they  make  use  in 
winter,  or  at  any  other  time,  as  long  as  it  lasts. 

They  have  also  a  custom e  of  tanning  Cowhides  for  their 
owne  and  their  families  use,  with  hather  instead  of  bark, 
which  is  thus  done;  having  lim'd  the  hides,  and  the  hair 
taken  off,  and  the  lime  well  gotten  out,  and  well  washed,  141. 
they  take  the  bark  and  cropts  of  sauch,  which  they  boyl  very 
well,  with  the  decoction  whereof  they  cover  the  hide  in  a  tub, 
the  decoction  being  first  very  well  coord ;  this  they  call  a 
washing  woose,  the  next  day  or  two  thereafter,  they  take  the 
short  tops  of  young  green  heather,  and  cutt  it  small  with  an 
ax,  then  put  a  layer  thereof  in  the  bottom  of  a  large  tub, 
upon  which  they  spread  the  hide,  and  put  another  layer  of 
heather  upon  it,  and  then  fold  another  ply  of  the  hide  and  so 
hather  upon  it,  and  then  another  ply  of  the  hide,  till  the  hide 
be  all  folded  up,  always  putting  green  heather  betwixt  every 
fold,  then  they  put  heather  above  all,  and  then  make  a  strong 
decoction  of  heather,  which  being  very  well  cooFd,  they  pour 
on  the  hides,  till  they  be  all  covered  and  then  put  broad 
stones  above  all  to  keep  the  hides  from  swimming;  when  they 
find  that  the  hides  have  drawn  out  the  strength  of  the  decoc- 
tion or  woose  as  they  call  it,  which  they  know  by  the  water, 
which  will  begin  to  be  very  clear,  they  take  fresh  hather,  and 
so  repete  the  operation  severall  times,  till  the  hides  be 
thoroughly  tann'd  which  the  countrey  shoemakers  coming  to 
their  houses  make  into  shoes  for  the  use  of  the  family.  And 
here  I  shall  add  that  many  of  the  cords,  which  they  use  in 
harrowing  are  made  of  hemp  yarne  of  their  own  growing  or 
spinning,  which  they  twine,  twentie  or  thirtiethreeds  together, 
according  to  the  greatness  of  the  cords  they  designe  to 
make,  and  then  they  twist  three  ply  of  this  together  very 
hard,  which  done  they  let  them  ly  in  bark  woose,  which  they 
say  keeps  the  cords  the  longer  from  rotting. 

Some  of  the  countrey  people  here  in  the  nighttime,  sleep 
not  except  they  pull  off  not  only  their  cloaths  but  their  very 
shirts,  and  then  wrap  themselves  in  their  blankets  yea  and  I 
have  known  some  of  them,  who  have  so  addicted  themselves 


120  GALLOWAY 

to  this  custome  that  when  they  watch  their  cattell  and  sheep 
in  folds  at  night  (which  they  do  constantly  from  the  beginning 
of  May,  till  the  corne  be  taken  off  the  ground  for  fear  they 
should  break  the  fold  dikes  in  the  night  time  and  do  prejudice 
to  themselves  or  their  neighbours)  they  ly  on  the  ground  with 
straw  or  femes  under  them  and  stripping  themselves  stark 
naked,  be  the  night  never  so  cold  and  stormie,  they  ly  there 
wrapping  themselves  in  their  blankets,  having  perhaps  some- 
14*.  times  a  few  sticks  placed  cheveron  wise  and  covered  with  Turffs 
to  keep  their  blankets  from  the  raine. 

Some  of  the  countrey  people,  especially  those  of  the  elder 
sort,  do  very  often  omitt  the  letter  H  after  T,  as  Ting  ten- 
thing ;  tree  for  three ;  Tacht  for  Thatch  ;  Wit  for  With  ; 
Fait  for  Faith,  Mout  for  Mouth,  so  also,  quite  contrary  to 
some  north  countrey  people  (who  pronounce  V  for  W  as  Voe 
for  Woe,  Volves  for  Wolves)  they  oftentimes  pronounce  \\ 
for  V,  as  serwant  for  servant,  wery  for  very  and  so  they  cal 
the  months  of  February,  March  and  April,  the  Wart 
quarter,  W  for  V,  from  Ver;  hence  their  common  proverb 
speaking  of  the  stormes  in  February ;  Winter  never  comes 
till  Ware  comes ;  and  this  is  almost  to  the  same  purpose  wit! 
the  English  saying,  When  the  days  beginne  to  lengthen,  the 
cold  beginnes  to  strengthen. 

The  people  of  this  countrey  do  very  seldome  or  rather  nol 
at  all,  kill  or  sell  their  calves,  as  they  do  in  other  places, 
that  is  a  rare  thing  so  see  Veale  except  sometimes  and  at  some 
few  Gentlemens  tables.  They  give  two  reasons  for  this;  One 
is  because  as  they  say,  the  cow  will  not  give  down  her  milk 
without  her  Calfe  [Mandeslo  in  his  travels  through  Persia 
India  and  other  easterne  countreys  relates  the  like  of  somt 
place  there]  and  so  should  they  kill  or  sell  the  Cow,  thev 
should  want  the  use  of  the  Cow  but  this  I  suppose  might  be 
helped  would  they  but  train  up  the  Cow  otherwise  at  her  first 
Calying.  The  other  Reason  is  of  more  weight,  viz.  Since  i 
great  part  of  their  Wealth  consists  in  the  product  of  then 
cattell,  they  think  it  very  ill  husbandry  to  sell  that  for  ; 
shilling,  which  in  three  yearstime  will  yeild  more  thai 
twenty. 

The  Weight    by  which   they  sell  butter,   Cheese,  Tallow 


GALLOWAY  121 

•Wool  and  Flax  of  their  own  grouth,  is  by  the  stone  of 
Wigton,  which  consists  exactly  of  twentie  two  pound  and  an 
half  Trois,  and  of  this  they  will  give  you  down  weight. 

The  Measure  by  which  they  sell  their  Beir,  Malt,  and 
Oates  is  their  half  Peck,  eight  whereof  make  their  Boll,  four 
their  furlet  two  their  Peck.  This  Measure  should  be  burnt 
and  sealed  by  the  magistrats  of  Wigton  and  is  called  in  148. 
bargains  and  written  transactions  Met  and  Measure  of 
Wigton.  The  quantity  of  this  Measure  is  not  exactly 
knowne  at  least  it  is  not  always  exactly  the  same,  for  it  is  hard 
in  this  countrey  to  get  two  measures  exactly  alike,  the  sides 
thereof  being  not  made  of  hoops  and  staves  as  the  Linlithgow 
measures  are,  but  of  one  intire  thin  peice  of  Ash  bended  and 
nailed  together  like  the  Rim  of  an  Wool  wheel,  and  so  is  apt 
to  cling  and  sometimes  to  alter  and  change  its  exact  circular 
frame,  and  therefore  the  countrey  people  bargaining  among 
themselves  do  usually  condescend  upon  such  a  particular 
measure  that  such  a  Neighbour  makes  use  of,  to  buy  and  sell 
with,  The  reason  of  this  inequality  seems  to  be  a  debate 
betwixt  the  town  and  countrey.  the  towne  alledging  that  the 
half  Peck  should  contain  sixteen  pints,  the  countrey  that  it 
should  containe  only  fourteen  pints,  and  a  chopin  and  then 
again  suppose  they  were  agreed  about  the  number  of  pints, 
yet  they  disagree  about  the  measure  of  the  pint,  the  town 
alledging  that  it  should  be  Jugg  measure  and  some  of  the 
countrey  alledging  that  it  should  be  only  pluck  measure. 
However  they  sell  their  Beir,  Malt  and  Gates  by  heap,  and 
the  vessell  is  so  broad  that  the  heap  will  be  more  than  one 
third  part  of  the  whole.  The  halfe  of  this  Vessell  they  call 
an  Auchlet  qu  an  eightlet  or  little  eight  part,  for  it  is  the  halfe 
of  that  Measure  eight  whereof  make  their  boll.  So  that  their 
Boll  containes  sixteen  Auchlets;  the  furlet  eight  Auchlets  ; 
the  Peck  four  Auchlets  and  the  half  peck  two  Auchlets.  By 
this  Auchlet  they  sell  Meale,  salt  and  pease,  all  straked 
measure.  About  Kirkc-udburgh  in  the  Stewartrie  although 
their  measures  are  made  of  the  same  forme,  yet  they  differ 
very  much  as  to  the  quantities  and  have  another  way  for 
Counting  the  divisions  of  the  Boll,  but  at  Monnygaffe  though 
in  the  bounds  of  the  Stewartry  of  Kirkcudburgh,  they  count 


GALLOWAY 

the  same  way  with  the  towne  of  Wigton  and  differ  very  little 
from  their  measure  because  it  lyes  contiguous  to  the  shire  and 
is  for  the  most  part  furnished  with  Beir,  Gates,  Malt  and 
Meal  from  the  parishes  of  the  Presbytry  of  Wigton  in  that 
shire,  which  are  all  regulated  by  the  Met  and  Measure  of 
Wigton. 

As  to  the  eight  Querie  What  Monasteries  &c.  Answ.  Within 
144-  the  Stewartry  of  Kirkcudburgh  there  is  1  New  Abbey  neer 
Dumfreis.  It  with  six  churches  depending  thereon  viz.  Kirk- 
cudburgh, Kelton,  Bootle,  Corsemichael,  Kirkpatrick-Durham 
and  Orr,  belongs  to  the  Bishop  of  Edinburgh  and  granted  to 
that  Bishoprick  at  its  erection  by  King  Charles  the  Martyr, 
formerly  the  revenues  thereof  were  brought  in,  as  I  am  in- 
formed, towards  the  support  of  the  Castle  of  Edinburgh. 
2  The  Abbey  of  Dundranen  in  the  parish  of  Rerick  or  Monk- 
ton.  It  belongs  to  the  Bishop  of  Dunblain  as  Dean  to  the 
Chapel  Royal.  3.  The  Abbey  of  Tongueland.  It  belongs  to 
the  Bishop  of  Galloway.  The  Vicecount  of  Kenmuir  is  herit- 
able Bayly  thereof.  In  the  shire  of  Wigton  there  is  1.  The 
Priory  of  Whithern.  It  belongs  to  the  Bishop  of  Galloway 
and  hath  a  regality  annext  thereto.  The  Earl  of  Galloway  is 
heritable  Bayly  thereof.  2.  The  Abbacy  of  Glenluce.  It 
belongeth  to  the  Bishop  of  Galloway.  It  is  a  regality,  its 
Jurisdiction  reacheth  over  the  whole  parish  of  Glenluce.  Sir 
John  Dalrymple  younger  of  Stair  is  heritable  Bayly  of  this 
Regality.  3.  Salsyde  or  Soul-Seat,  or  Saul-Seat,  now  almost 
wholly  ruined.  It  lyes  in  the  flexure  of  a  Loch  within  the 
parish  of  the  Inch.  The  Minister  of  Portpatrick  hath  an 
action  in  dependance  before  the  Lords  of  Session  concerning 
the  Superiority  of  the  lands  belonging  to  this  Abbacy,  and  is 
sometimes  called  Commendator  of  Salside,  but  what  will  be 
the  decision  thereof  I  know  not. 

As  to  the  Ninth  Querie  I  can  only  say  that  the  house  of 
Gairlies  in  the  parish  of  Monnygaffe,  the  house  of  Glasserton 
in  the  parish  of  Glasserton,  affoords  titles  to  the  Earl  of  Gallo- 
way, whose  tittle  is  Earl  of  Galloway,  Lord  Stewart  of  Gair- 
lies and  Glasserton.  The  Earl  of  Galloway  his  eldest  son  is 
called  the  Lord  Gairlies.  So  Castle  Kennedy  in  the  parish  of 
the  Inch  affoords  a  title  to  the  Earl  of  Cassillis  his  eldest  son, 


GALLOWAY  128 

who  is  stiled  Lord  Kennedy.  As  also  the  Castle  of  Kenmuir 
in  the  parish  of  Kells,  affoords  a  title  to  the  Vicecount  of 
Kenmuir. 

As  to  the  tenth,  eleventh,  and  twelth   Queries,  they   are 
answerd  in  the  description  of  the  particular  parishes.      As  for  145. 
the  rest  of  the  Queries,  to  the  Nobility,  Gentry,  Burrows,  as  I 
am  not  concerned  therein,  so  it  would  be  an  attempt  far  above 
my  capacity  to  give  any  satisfactory  answer  concerning  them. 

I  shall  only  presume  to  give  some  short  account  concerning 
the  Bishop  of  Galloway  and  the  Chapter. 

As  to  the  Bishop  of  Galloway,  his  priviledges  and  dignities. 
He  is  Vicar  Generall  to  Archbishop  of  Glasgow  and  in  the 
V^acancie  of  that  See,  can  do  anything  that  the  Archbishop 
himself  could  have  done,  viz.  can  present  Jure  proprio  to  vacant 
churches  at  the  Archbishops  gift,  can  present  Jure  devoluto  to 
laick  patronages  that  are  elapsed  can  ordain,  collate  and  insti- 
tute within  the  Archbishoprick  of  Glasgow  &c.  He  takes 
place  of  all  the  Bishops  in  Scotland  except  the  Bishop  o 
Edinburgh.  The  Coat  of  Armes  belonging  to  him  as  Bishop 
of  Galloway  is  Argent,  St.  Ninian  standing  full  fac'd  proper, 
cloath'd  with  a  Pontificall  Robe  purpure,  on  his  head  a  Miter, 
and  in  his  dexter  hand  a  Crosier.  Or.  As  for  the  time  of  the 
erection  of  this  Bishoprick, better  Chronologists  and  Historians, 
than  I  can  pretend  to  be,  must  be  consulted. 

As  to  the  Chapter.  Although  the  King  in  his  Conge  D1 
elire  keeping  the  ordinary  stile,  beginns  thus  Carolus  Secundus 
Del  gratia  Scotice,  Anglice,  Fran'cios  et  Hibernice  Rex,  Fidei 
Denfensor  &c  Dilectis  nostris  in  Christo,  Decano  et  Capitulo 
Ecclesice  Cathedralis  Gallovidiensis,  Salutem,  and  directs  his 
literas  commendaticias  To  our  Trusty  and  Well-beloved  the 
Deane  and  Chapter  of  the  Cathedrall  Church  of  Galloway. 
And  although,  as  I  have  heard  it  reported,  King  Charles  the 
Martyr,  nominated  and  appointed  the  Minister  of  Whithern 
to  be  Deane,  and  mortified  a  salary  for  that  effect,  yet  there 
is  no  Deane  of  Galloway  ;  onely  an  ArchDeacon  who  is  Archi- 
diaconus  vicem  Decani  supplens.  This  is  and  hath  been  in 
the  constant  possession  of  Penygham,  yet  he  hath  no  salarie 
for  that  effect,  nether  have  any  of  the  rest  of  the  Members  of 
the  Chapter  one  sixpence  that  I  know  of,  or  could  ever  hear  146. 


124  GALLOWAY 

tell  of  upon  the  account  of  their  being  members  of  the  Chapter. 
However  upon  the  Kings  Conge  D"  Elire,  the  Chapter  of  Gallo- 
way, upon  the  Archdeacons  advertisement,  use  to  meet  in  the 
Cathedrall  Church  of  Whithern,  built  by  Saint  Ninian,  and 
dedicate  by  him,  as  they  say,  to  his  Uncle  Saint  Martin 
Bishop  of  Tours  in  France.  The  bell  yet  extant  [of  which  I 
have  formerly  spoken  in  the  description  of  Whithern]  makes  it 
evident  that  the  Church  is  Saint  Martins  Church.  However 
the  Members  of  the  Chapter  of  Galloway  are 

I  Penygham  Archidiae  ^|  these  are  within 

The  Minr  of  j  Whithern,  Pastor  Candida  Casa  the  Presbytery 

t  Wigton,  Pastor  Victoniensis  J  of  Wigton. 

finch,  Sedis  animarum  pastor  ^  these  are  within 

The  Minr  of-!  Stoniekirk,  Pastor  Lithoclesiensis  Uhe  Presbytery 

I^Leswalt,  Pastor  Leswaltensis  J  of  Stranrauer. 


The  Minr  of 


Kirkcudburgh,  Pastor  Kirkcudbureensis^    . 

these  are 
llerick.  Pastor  Rencensis 

within  the 

Presbytery 
ofKirkcud- 


Borgue,  Borgensis, 
Twynam,  Pastor  Twynamensis 
Crosmichael;  Pastor  Crucemichael 
Dairy,  Pastor  Dalriensis. 


As  for  the  number  of  the  parishes  in  the  Diocess  of  Gallo- 
way they  are  thirty  four,  viz.  Within  the  Presbytery  of  Kirk- 
cudburgh  seventeen.  Within  the  Presbytery  of  Wigton,  nine. 
Within  the  Presbytery  of  Stranraver,  eight.  These  parishes 
have  been  particularly  described  already,  together  with  several  1 
other  little  parishes  annext  to  some  of  them. 

As  for  the  Bishops  of  Galloway;  their  foundations  for 
publick  and  pious  uses,  together  with  their  revenues,  I  wish  I 
could  say  more  than  I  can.  For  such  was  the  sacriledge  and 
irreligious  practises  of  many  both  of  the  Clergy  and  Laity, 
both  of  the  Romanists  and  Protestants  about  the  time  of  the 
Reformation  in  Queen  Maries  days  that  the  foundations  for 
pious  Uses,  were  so  diverted  from  the  intent  and  design  of  the 
first  founder,  that  the  very  remaines  and  vestigia,  are  hardly 
heard  tell  of  which  no  doubt  hath  occasioned  many  good 
Protestant  Bishops  that  have  been  there,  to  dispose  of 
their  Charity  more  privately  and  not  to  lay  any  fund  that  I 


GALLOWAY  125 

know  of  for  any  pious  or  publick  use,  lest  it  should  meet  with 
the  like  fate;  Yea  and  for  the  revenues  of  the  Bishoprick, 
they  were  so  far  delapidate,  that  when  the  Civil  Government 
thought  fit  to  settle  Episcopacy,  there  could  not  be  found  any 
Revenue  like  a  competency  for  a  Bishop  to  live  upon ;  And 
therefore  the  Abbacy  of  Glenluce  with  the  Superiority  of  the 
lands  belonging  thereto,  the  Priory  of  Whitherne  with  the 
Superiority  of  the  lands  belonging  thereto,  the  Abbacy  of 
Tongu eland  with  the  Superiority  of  the  lands  belonging 
thereto,  were  all  annext  to  the  Bishoprick  of  Galloway  to 
make  a  competency  for  him.  The  King  also  purchased  the 
patronages  and  teinds  of  the  kirks  of  Dumfries,  Trailflat, 
Closeburn,  Staple-Gordon,  and  Dumgree  all  lying  within  the 
Diocess  of  Glasgow,  from  the  Earl  of  Roxburgh,  which  five 
kirks  were  pendicles  of  the  Abbacy  of  Kelso,  to  which  Abbey 
that  Earl  had  a  right,  and  granted  the  benefit  accrescing  from 
these  Churches  (the  respective  ministers  of  the  saids  five  kirks 
being  first  provided  for)  to  the  Bishoprick  of  Galloway,  so 
that  now,  although  the  revenues  of  the  Bishoprick  are  not 
large  and  opulent,  yet  if  times  were  peaceable,  he  might  live 
there ;  well  enough  upon  it,  and  might  moreover  performe 
such  acts  of  Hospitality  and  Charity,  as  would  much  ingratiat 
himself  with  the  people  of  that  countrey,  had  he  also  but  a 
convenient  house  to  live  in,  for  as  I  formerly  insinuated,  the 
Bishoprick  was  so  dilapidated,  that  there  is  not  so  much  as  an 
house  in  all  the  Diocess,  that  as  Bishop  of  Galloway,  he  can 
call  his  owne,  the  pityfull  dwelling  the  Bishops  of  Galloway  of 
late,  have  hitherto  had,  being  only  in  a  Chapel  belonging  to  the 
Abbacy  of  Glenluce,  and  within  the  precincts  of  that  ruinous 
Abbacy  :  The  Bishop  himself,  when  dwelling  in  the  countrey, 
preaching  in  the  kirk  of  Glenluce  on  the  Sundays  in  the  fore- 
noon, and  giving  out  of  his  revenue  a  salary  to  a  Minister  to 
preach  for  him  in  the  afternoons,  the  Bishop  being  present, 
and  to  preach  both  diets,  he  being  absent. 

As  for  the  lands  that  hold  of  him  as  Bishop  of  Galloway,  as  148. 
Prior  of  Whitherne  as  Abbot  of  Glenluce,  and  as  Abbot  of 
Tongueland  and  as  having  right  to  the  five  parishes  above 
specified,  they  are  very  many,  but  yet  considering,  that  the 
yeerly  dutys  payable  forth  of  the  lands  are  very  small,  as  also 


126  GALLOWAY 

these  lands  are  far  distant,  some  of  them  lying  in  Annandale, 
some  in  Nithisdale,  some  in  Eskdale,  some  in  Argyle,  some  in 
Carrict,  together  with  the  set  yearly  salaries  that  his  Baylies 
of  Glenluce,  Whitherne  and  Tongueland  get  from  him,  as  also 
the  yearly  salary  that  he  gives  to  his  Chamberlain  or  Factor  to 
uplift  his  revenues,  so  far  scattered  from  each  other,  the  profit 
that  will  come  to  him  de  claro  will  not  be  excessive,  and  yet 
moderate  though  it  be,  and  may  secure  him  from  being  pitied, 
yet  it  cannot  secure  him  from  being  envied. 

The  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  undoubted  patron  of  one  and 
twentie  parishes.  Whereof  thirteen  are  principall  parishes  in 
his  own  Diocess.  1  Whitherne.  2  Sorbie  with  the  two  kirks 
of  Kirkmadroyn  and  Cruglton  thereto  annext.  3  Glaston 
with  the  kirk  of  Kirkmaiden  annext  thereto.  4  Mochrum. 
5  Monnygaffe ;  These  five  are  within  the  Presbytery  of  Wig- 
ton.  6  Glenluce.  7  Inch.  8  Stranraver,  9  Laswalt.  These 
four  are  within  the  Presbytery  of  Stranraver,  where  also  we 
may  add  other  two  viz.  Toskerton  and  Clashshant,  which  are 
annext  to  the  parish  of  Stoniekirk.  10  Tongueland.  11  Corse- 
fairne.  12  Borgue  with  the  two  kirks  of  Sennick  and  Kirk- 
anders  annext  thereto.  13  Girthton,  these  four  are  within  the 
Presbytery  of  Kirkudburgh. 

The  other  eight  are  without  the  bounds  of  his  owne  Diocess. 
Viz.  14  Killmoiden  alias  Glendaruell  within  the  shire  and 
Diocess  of  Argyle  and  Presbytery  of  Cowell  or  Dinnune.  The 
Bishop  of  Galloway  is  Patron  hereof  as  Prior  of  Whithern. 
15  Kirkmichael.  This  Parish  lyes  in  Carrict  within  the  shire 
of  Air,  Archbishoprick  of  Glasgow  and  Presbytery  of  Air. 
The  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  patron  herof  also  as  Prior  of 
Whithern.  16  Traqueir.  This  parish,  as  hath  been  said,  lys 
within  the  Stewartrie  of  Kirkcudburgh  and  is  under  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Glasgow,  within  the  Presbytery  of  Dumfreis.  The 
149.  Bishop  of  Galloway  is  patron  of  it  as  Abbot  of  Tongueland. 
17  Dumfreis.  The  head  Burgh  of  the  shire  of  Nithisdale,  and 
a  Presbytery  seat,  it  lyes  within  the  Archbishoprick  of  Glas- 
gow. 18  Trailflat.  This  parish  Kirk  is  or  at  least  was,  an 
excellent  structure,  the  roof  thereof  being  fanTd  for  the  curious 
and  exquisite  architecture  thereof,  it  is  now  in  part  ruinous ; 
and  is  annext  to  the  parish  of  Tinnal,  both  which  parishes  are 


GALLOWAY  127 

lying  within  the  shire  of  Nithisdale,  Presbytery  of  Dumfreis 
and  Archbishoprick  of  Glasgow.  19  Closeburn.  This  parish 
lyes  within  the  shire  of  Nithisdale,  Presbytery  of  Pinpont,  and 
Diocess  of  Glasgow  the  Kirk  of  Dalgarno,  whereof  the  Bishop 
of  Edinburgh  is  patron,  is  annext  to  this  parish  of  Closeburn. 
20  Drumgree.  This  parish  is  within  the  Presbytery  of  Loch- 
rnaban,  in  Annandale,  and  Diocese  of  Glasgow.  This  parish 
of  Drumgree  is  annext  to  the  parish  of  except  a  little 

part  thereof,  if  I  mistake  not,  is  annext  to  the  parish  of  Kil- 
patrick  and  payeth  yearly  to  the  Bishop  of  Galloway 

about  fourty  pounds  Scots.  21  Staple-Gordon.  This  parish 
is  within  the  Presbytery  of  Middlebie  in  Eskdale  lying  within 
the  shire  of  and  Diocese  of  Glasgow.  The  patron- 

ages and  superplus  teinds  of  these  five  parishes  viz.  Dumfreis, 
Trailflat,  Closeburn,  Drumgree  and  Staple  -  Gordon  were 
pendicles  of  the  Abbacy  of  Kelso,  and  purchased  from  the  Earl 
of  Roxburgh  by  the  King  and  granted  by  his  Majestie  to  the 
Bishops  of  Galloway,  as  said  is,  towards  the  encreasing  of  their 
revenue.  The  Bishops  of  Galloway  also  had  of  old  the 
patronages  and  teinds  of  two  parishes  in  the  Isle  of  Man,  yea, 
and  as  1  am  informed,  were  in  possession  of  them  since  the 
Reformation,  but  at  present  they  are  worne  out  of  the  poses- 
sion  thereof.  The  Bishop  of  Galloway  also  pretends  that  he 
hath  the  priviledge  of  nominating  the  Provest  of  Whithern, 
for  sure  I  am,  when  I  was  there  with  him,  he  refused  to  accept 
the  Ordinary  Complement  from  them,  (which  he  took  from 
other  burghs)  of  being  made  Burgess  there,  lest  his  taking  it 
from  them,  might  militate  against  his  own  right. 

And  thus,  Sir  I  have  given  as  full  an  answer  to  your  Queries  150, 
as  possibly  I  can,  ether  from  my  own  knowledge  and  observa- 
tion, or  from  what  information  I  have  gathered  from  others, 
many  of  which  perhaps  may  be  founded  upon  mistakes,  but  I  can 
assure  you,  that  they  are  not  de  industrm  in  me.  However  if 
this  do  not  satisfy  a  more  curious  inquirer,  I  shall  be  content 
to  use  my  endeavour,  that  he  may  be  better  informed  and  this 
perhaps  I  may  hereafter  do,  by  way  of  an  appendix,  by  affoord- 
ing  him  my  help  and  directions  to  travel  to  the  principal  places 
of  this  countrey,  yea  and  to  Portpatrick  itself  (and  thence  to 
Ireland  if  he  please)  from  Carlisle  Edinburgh  and  Glasgow. 


128  STEWARTRIE  OF  KIRKCUDBRIGHT 

And  now  Sir,  if  these  papers  such  as  they  are,  can  be  any 
wise  subservient  to  your  designe  in  composing  and  publishing 
the  Scottish  Atlas,  I  shall  not  think  my  time  and  labour  in 
collecting  them,  hath  been  spent  in  vaine ;  yea  and  I  shall  be 
always  willing  In  my  station,  to  affoord  my  weak  assistance  to 
any  publick  good,  that  shall  be  carried  on  by  commendable  and 
innocent  meanes,  as  these  of  yours  are.  Upon  which  account 
I  am, 

Your  humble  serv*  in  all  duty 

Kirkinner  Anno  Domini  1684.  ANDREW  SYMSON. 


ADVERTISEMENT. 

Such  passage  as  relate  to  time  or  persons  are  to  be  under- 
stood with  respect  to  the  year  1684,  in  which  year  these 
papers  were  at  first  formed,  severall  of  them  being  only  writen 
in  short  notes,  which  were  to  have  been  afterwards  extended, 
but  the  troubles,  which  very  shortly  thereafter  did  ensue, 
occasioned  these  papers  to  be  cast  by,  yea  and  almost  wholly 
forgotten  for  some  years ;  being  at  length  desired  to  extend 
and  transcribe  the  same,  I  severall  times  set  about  it,  but  was 
diverted;  however  having  here  time  and  leasure  enough,  I 
have  transcribed  them.  Wherein  are  inserted  here  and  there, 
severall  particulars,  which  were  ether  wholly  omitted  at  first, 
or  of  which  I  had  not  then  so  full  Information  as  I  have  since 
procured  from  many  persons  on  severall  occasions. 

Dalclathick  in  Glenartnae  June  28,  1692. 


A  GENEKALL  DESCRIPTION  of  the  STEWARTRIE 
of  KIRKCUDBRIGHT. 

The  Stewartrie  of  Kirkcudbright  is  much  circular,  whose 
center  will  be  the  south  end  of  the  great  Loch  of  Kenne  water 
and  the  most  easterly  point  thereof  which  bordereth  upon  the 
Airds  belonging  to  the  Lairds  of  Earlstoun.  The  water  of 
Kenne  from  its  fountain  while  it  meeteth  with  the  water  of 
Dee,  and  then  the  water  of  Dee  to  the  Isle  of  Rosse  where  it 
entereth  into  the  Ocean,  maketh  up  the  diameter  of  the 


STEWARTRIE  OF  KIRKCUDBRIGHT          129 

Circle,  whereby  the  Stewartrie  is  very  naturally  divided  almost 
in  two  equall  parts.  The  diameter  itself  will  be  thirty  myls 
at  least,  the  head  of  the  water  of  Kenne  lyeth  North  Northeast 
from  the  forsaid  Rosse,  and  the  water  generally  runneth  South 
South  West.  And  the  head  marcheth  with  Nithsdale.  Then 
the  straightest  way  from  the  toune  of  Drumfris  to  the  village 
of  Minigoff  goeth  thorow  the  forsaid  center  and  though  it  be 
not  the  rode  way,  will  almost  be  equall  very  litle  short  of 
the  former  diameter  crossing  it  at  right  angles  and  Minigoff 
marcheth  with  the  shire  of  Galloway.  The  southern  semi- 
circle whose  circumference  is  from  Drumfrise  by  the  Rosse  of 
Kirkcudbright  round  about  to  Minigoff  is  marched  with  the 
sea,  for  the  sea  floweth  at  spring  tydes  to  the  bridge  of 
Drumfrize  and  a  litle  upwards.  At  spring  tyds  also  it  floweth 
to  Minigoff  village,  from  Drumfrise  to  the  foot  of  the  river. 
Nith  divideth  the  Stewartrie  from  Nithsdal,  then  Nith  entring 
into  Solway  firth,  to  the  Rosse  of  Kirkcudbright  it  is  marched 
witli  Solway  firth,  the  entrie  of  this  Firth  into  the  Ocean  is 
betwixt  the  Rosse  and  Saint  Bees  head  in  Cumberland  of 
England  which  will  be  24  myls  over,  from  the  Rosse  to  the 
Minigoffe.  the  Firth  of  Cree  marcheth,  whose  entry  into  the 
Ocean  is  betwixt  the  Rosse  and  the  point  of  Whithorne  in  the 
shire  called  the  Burrowhead,  which  is  twelve  myls  over  unto 
its  head  which  is  betwixt  the  toune  of  Wigtoun  in  the  shire 
and  Cassincarry  in  the  Stewartrie  belonging  to  an  ancient 
family  of  the  name  of  Muir  and  from  thence  to  Minigofftoun 
being  six  mylls  the  water  of  Cree,  both  the  water  and  the 
water  separating  the  Stewartrie  from  the  shyre  of  Wigtoun 
The  third  quadrant  which  is  betwixt  Minigoff  and  the  head  1 
of  Kenne,  is  yet  divided  by  the  Water  of  Cree  from  the  shire, 
afterwards  by  a  dry  march  to  the  great  loch  of  Dun  which 
separateth  it  also  from  Carik  then  Kyle  near  to  the  foot  of  the 
Loch  marcheth  the  Stewartrie  with  a  dry  March  near  to  the 
head  of  Kenne  where  Nithsdale  cometh  to  march.  The  fourth 
or  Northeast  quadrant  which  is  betwixt  the  head  of  Kenne 
and  Drumfrise  marcheth  all  alongst  with  Nithsdaile  from  the 
head  of  Kenne  to  the  head  of  the  water  of  Cluden  by  a  dry 
march  and  then  by  Cluden  to  its  end  where  it  runneth  into 
Nith  a  mile  at  Drumfrise  from  thence  by  Nith.  but  this 

VOL.  II.  I 


130         STEWARTRIE  OF  KIRKCUDBRIGHT 

fourth  part  of  the  Stewartrie  faileth  much  from  the  nature  of 
a  quadrant  for  Nithisdaill  doth  incroach  upon  its  very  chord, 
but  in  the  first  quadrant  the  parish  of  Kirkbean  doeth  go 
beyond  the  Arch  of  the  quadrant  by  its  lowlands  of  Arbegle 
and  Prestoun  and  the  parish  of  Minigoff  in  some  parts  doth 
likewise  extend  beyond  the  Arch  as  also  the  parish  of  Carse- 
fairne,  so  ballancing  the  excesse  of  the  first  and  third  with  the 
want  of  the  fourth.  I  judge  the  Stewartrie  of  Kirkcudbright 
will  be  a  100  miles  in  circuite. 

The  orientall  part  of  the  Stewartrie  is  very  naturally 
divided  into  two  parts  by  the  water  called  Orre,  which  indeed 
is  the  Arch  of  a  circle,  whose  center  is  the  toun  of  Drumfrise 
from  which  every  part  of  the  water  from  the  head  to  the  foot 
is  12  miles  distant.  The  water  itself  from  the  head  of  it 
which  is  the  Loch  of  Orre,  partly  in  the  Stewartrie  and  partly 
in  Nithsdale  to  the  foot  thereof  where  it  entereth  into  Solway- 
firth  at  the  Hand  called  Hestoun  will  be  twentie  miles  long, 
in  which  ar  contained  ten  parishes  under  the  Jurisdiction 
of  the  Stewart  of  Kirkcudbright  yet  within  the  Diocese 
of  Glasgow  and  Commissariots  of  Drumfrise  thereunto  be- 
longing. 

The  most  notherly  of  these  parishes  is  Kirkpatrik  Durham 
lying  upon  the  Water  of  Orre,  next  to  it  is  the  other  Kirk- 
patrik called  Yrongray,  upon  the  march  of  Nithsdaile :  under 
Durham  upon  the  Water  of  Orre  lyeth  the  parish  of  Orre, 
eastwards  from  it  lyeth  Lockirtoun  and  to  the  east  of  that  is 
153.  Terricles  upon  the  Water  of  Cluden.  Southwards  under 
Terricles  is  Traquaire  towards  the  foot  of  the  river  from 
Drumfrise.  Southwards  from  Orre  and  Lochirtoun  is  the  parish 
of  Kirkgunnion,  then  upon  the  firth  of  Solway  betwixt  Nith 
and  On-  lyest  from  east  to  west  orderly  New  abbay,  Kirkbeen, 
and  Colven  partly  upon  the  firth  and  partly  on  the  water  of 
Orre. 

The  westerne  part  of  this  eastern  semicircle  contained 
betwixt  the  water  of  Orre  and  the  higher  half  of  the  water  of 
Kenne  and  lowest  halfe  of  the  water  of  Dee  containeth  8 
parishes  the  most  northerly  is  Dairy  to  the  south  of  that  is 
Balmaclellan  to  the  south  of  that  is  Partoun  to  the  south  of 
that  is  Crossmichael,  all  marching  with  the  two  waters  except 


STEWARTRIE  OF  KIRKCUDBRIGHT         131 

Dairy,  the  which  hath  a  dry  march  with  Nithsdale  under 
Oossmichaell  lyeth  Keltoun  upon  Dee,  and  Butle  eastwards 
from  it  upon  Orre  whose  forsaid  Arch  maketh  the  nearest 
distance  betwixt  the  two  waters  to  be  only  2  miles,  whereas  at 
the  foot  it  will  be  12. 

Under  these  again  are  Rerik  marching  with  Butle  on  the 
east  and  a  bay  called  Hestoun  within  which  the  Hand  of 
Hestoun  is  and  in  the  south  with  the  Solway  Firth  upon  the 
West  is  the  parish  of  and  toun  of  Kirkcudbright,  which  partly 
lyeth  upon  the  river  and  partly  upon  the  Solway  firth,  the 
toune  lyeth  upon  the  side  of  the  river  four  mils  above  the 
Rosse. 

The  Westerne  semicircle,  which  marcheth  with  the  shire, 
Carrik,  Kyle  and  a  part  of  Nithsdaile  is  most  naturally 
divided  into  three  parts,  the  most  northerly  part  whereof  is 
contained  betwixt  the  separate  parts  of  the  waters  of  Kenne 
and  Dee,  unto  the  Loch  of  Dee,  and  then  the  lane  called  the 
Currine  Lane  whose  fountaine  is  within  half  a  mile  of  the 
Loch  of  Dun,  and  runneth  into  the  loch  of  Dee  and  the  Loch 
of  Dun  and  the  forsaid  drie  marches  of  Kyle  and  Nithsdaill. 
this  part  containeth  two  vast  parishes ;  the  most  northerly  is 
Carsfairne,  the  southerly  is  the  Kells,  about  a  part  of  which 
the  Water  of  Dee  and  Currine  lane  go  like  the  arch  of  a 
circle. 

The  other  part  of  this  western  semicircle  is  notablie  divided 
into  two  by  the  Water  of  Fleete,  whose  fountaine  is  the  loch  154. 
of  Fleet  within  a  mile  of  the  water  of  Dee  towards  its  head 
and  at  the  foot  runneth  into  the  firth  of  Cree.  the  eastern 
part  betwixt  Dee  and  Fleete,  which  lyeth  to  the  south  of  the 
Kells  containeth  five  parishes,  four  whereof  ly  along  the  water 
of  Dee,  South  on  from  another  orderly  as  followeth  Balmcghie 
viz.  next  to  Kells,  Tungland  next  to  Balmcghie.  Twiname 
next  to  Tungland,  next  to  Twinam  the  parish  of  Borg  lying, 
partly  upon  the  water  and  partly  upon  the  firth  of  Cree.  The 
fift  parish  is  Girth  toun  lying  from  the  head  to  the  foot  of 
Fleet  water  and  marching  with  all  the  former  four  parishes. 

The  third  part  is  contained  within  the  Water  of  Fleet  a 
part  of  Dee,  the  Currine  lane,  thence  to  Lochdun,  upon  the 
eastside  and  upon  the  south  west  and  north  betwixt  the  water 


132          STEWARTRIE  OF  KIRKCUDBRIGHT 

of  Cree  and  its  firth  and  the  dry  march  of  Carrik  to  Lochdune 
and  in  this  third  part  ar  3  parishes.  Minigoff  lying  to 
the  North  and  Kirmabrike  or  Ferritoun  lying  to  the  South 
upon  Cree  and  its  firth  and  Anweth  lying  to  the  east 
of  Ferritoun,  all  alongs  the  water  of  Fleet  from  the  head 
to  the  foot. 


Oi    THE  ABBA  YES  PRIORIES  and  NUNRIES  within 
the  STEWARTRIE  of  KIRKCUDBRIGHT 

First  in  the  parish  of  Terricles  is  a  great  church  building 
called  the  Colledge,  it  was  a  Provestry  called  Lincluden 
situate  most  sweetly  in  the  angle  where  Cluden  runneth  into 
Nith,  a  mile  above  Drumfrise  built  by  Queen  Margarete  relict 
of  King  James  the  fourth  when  she  was  Countesse  of 
Dowglasse. 

Secondly  in  the  parish  of  Newabbay  is  an  Abbay  so  called 
and  the  Abbot  therof  was  called  Dominus  dulcis  cordis  or  my 
Lord  Sweet  heart. 

Thirdly  in  the  parish  of  Rerik  is  a  large  Abbay  called 
Dundranen,  where  Mr  Michael  Scot  lived. 

155.      Fourthly  in  the  parish  of  Tungland  is  the  Abbay  called 
Tungland. 

Fyfthly  in  the  parish  of  Galtua  which  now  with  another 
called  Dunrod  is  joyned  to  the  toun  and  Parish  of  Kirkcud- 
bright, is  an  Hand  called  of  Saint  Marie,  wherein  was  a 
priorie  a  short  mile  south  and  be  West  from  the  town  called 
the  Priorie  of  Sainct  Marie  He,  one  of  the  most  pleasant 
situations  in  Scotland. 

Sixtly  in  the  parish  of  Kirkcrist  which  is  now  annexed  to 
Twinam  parish  there  was  a  Nunrie  having  the  lands  called 
Nuntoun  and  the  Nunmilne  thereunto  belonging  but  now  it 
is  scarce  known,  where  the  Nunrie  was. 

The  latitude  of  the  town  of  Kirkcudbright  is  54*r  51  the 
longitude  as  I  remember  is  19gr. 


NORTH  COAST  OF  BUCHAN  133 

AN  ACCOUNT  of  the  NORTHSIDE  of  the  COAST 
OF  BUCHAN  by  ALEXADER  GARDEN 
of  TROUP. 

SIR 

All  the  account  I  can  render  you  at  present  concerning  the 
part  of  the  kingdome  we  live  in,  is  scarce  of  any  remark 
unless  I  could  give  a  particular  account  of  our  sea  foules, 
shell  fishes  and  white  fishes  all  which  we  have  in  great  abund- 
ance, and  I  shall  endeavour  (if  you  can  procure  me  a  sight  of 
what  accounts  are  alreadie  of  things  of  that  nature)  to  give 
you  a  particular  account  how  they  hold  good  as  to  the 
figures,  quantity,  maner  of  production  and  tyme  thereof  their 
feeding  and  the  time  they  are  found  with  us,  all  which  I  can 
neither  so  easily  nor  exactly  perform  before  the  sight  of  what 
accounts  are  alreadie  published. 

Our  sea  fouls,  except  very  few  kinds  of  them,  remove  from 
us  about  the  fifteenth  of  August  and  we  do  not  see  them 
again  till  about  the  first  of  March.  We  have  several  kinds  of 
them  but  the  names  we  term  them  by,  I  question  if  they  be 
known  by  them  elswhere  however  they  are  as  follows. 

The  Scrath,  the  Badoch  are  two  great  black  fowls,  the  Coot 
the  Sea  Coulter,  the  Taster,  these  five  when  they  seek  their 
prey  or  are  pursued,  dive  under  water,  and  making  use 
of  their  wings  do  swim  or  rather  flie  under  water,  with  verie 
great  celerity.  We  have  also  the  Maw  and  the  Grey  Maw, 
which  is  bigger  than  the  other  Maw  the  Sea  Cock,  the 
Kitwiack  and  Whap  ;  these  five  do  not  dive  under  water.  Of 
all  these  except  the  Sea  Cock  and  seldom  that,  the  Whap,  the 
badoch,  the  two  kinds  of  Maws,  and  the  Taster  We  see  none 
in  the  Wintertime.  We  are  not  in  use  of  eating  any  of  these 
fowls,  tho  severals  of  them  oftimes  be  killed  at  sport,  except 
the  Kitwiak  whilst  young,  than  which  there  is  in  many  mens 
thoughts,  no  better  flesh  eaten,  the  Whap  also  uses  to  be  eaten 
but  I  think  it  should  hardly  be  termed  a  sea  fowl,  the  eggs  of 
the  Cock  and  Maw  use  also  to  be  eaten. 

Of  shell  fishes  we  have  the  Lobster,  the  Partan  or  Rodach, 
the  Craib.  Of  Buckies  or  Wilks  we  have  but  one  kind  or  two 
at  most,  if  they  be  different,  the  one  being  long  and  large,  the 


134       NORTH  COAST  OF  BUCHAN 

other  round  and  lesser  both  of  a  greyish  colour,  the  lempitt 
and  little  kind  of  Mussell,  the  sea  burr,  the  Claim-shell  and 
the  great  black  Cockle.  The  Craib  differs  from  the  Par  tan  in 
nothing  but  that  it  is  of  a  greenish  colour  and  has  no  great 
toes  to  grip  with,  as  the  other.  Of  all  these,  if  you  think 
fitt,  you  may  have  the  shells,  of  themselves  I  can  give  litle  or 
no  account  nor  of  the  time  they  spawn,  having  never  observed 
it  but  the  lobster  is  best  with  us  in  the  beginning  of  May  at 
which  time  they  have  their  ranns  and  are  catch ed  with  any 
kind  of  fish  at  rock  foots  under  water,  and  that  only  far  out 
in  the  sea  for  they  use  to  take  hold  of  the  seamens  lines  and 
are  pulled  up.  The  Partans  are  best  about  August.  Of 
these  shell  fishes  we  use  to  eat  none  but  the  two  last  With  the 
Clam  and  the  great  cockle,  which  two  last  are  but  seldom 
found  here.  Of  all  these  shell  fishes  our  seamen  make  bait, 
but  mostly  of  the  Lempitt,  Muscle,  and  buckie  or  wilks  which 
they  gather  in  great  abundance  upon  outrocks  in  summer 
time  and  sow  them  upon  rocks  they  can  reach  to  dry  foot  att 
low  water  for  furnishing  themselves  with  bait  in  Winter,  they 
also  make  use  of  a  worm  called  Lug  digged  out  of  the  sands 
at  low  water  and  from  May  to  August  they  make  most  use  of 
157.  the  sand  Eel,  which  they  esteem  preferable  to  any  other,  in 
Winter  salt  Mackrell  do  very  well. 

The  sea  affords  white  fishes  here  in  abundance,  which  are 
Keeling,  Skaitt,  Turbitt  and  Codfish,  this  they  call  their 
great  fish,  whereof  they  begin  the  fishing  about  the  later  end 
of  Februar,  making  use  of  other  Fishes  for  bait  and  especially 
haddocks,  and  continue  it  till  the  Dogfish  come  in  which  at 
the  furthest  is  about  Lambas  and  remove  at  Hallow  day,  or 
the  first  of  Novr  at  farthest.  This  fish  fourtie  years  agoe  was 
not  known  upon  this  Coast  and  at  first  was  admired.  When 
he  comes,  our  seamen  are  necessitate  to  quit  the  fishing  of  all 
other  except  himself,  for  he  destroyes  what  is  fast  upon  their 
hooks  and  cutts  their  lines,  but  they  fish  himself  with  some 
advantage,  for  tho  his  flesh  be  not  for  meat,  yet  he  affords 
some  oyle  viz.  a  dozen  of  them  about  a  Scots  muchkin  at 
least. 

We  have  also  haddocks,  whitings,  with  another  kind  of  fish 
not  known  on  this  Coast  till  of  late  which  we  term  Carps, 


NORTH  COAST  OF  BUCHAN  135 

which  come  in  with  the  Mackrell.  We  have  also  the  Seath 
fish,  Mack  reel  and  Flook,  these  we  call  our  small  fishes,  the 
fishing  of  the  three  first  With  the  young  Codfish  and  Flook 
does  begin  when  the  Dog  removes,  and  continues  till  the  great 
fishing  begin,  then  both  the  fishing  of  great  and  small  fishes 
continues  till  the  Dog  return.  the  haddock  spawns  in 
Jan uar  and  is  not  thought  good  thereafter  till  May.  Whit- 
ings and  Flooks  are  most  common  with  us  in  the  summer- 
time, the  small  fishes  are  found  within  a  mile  of  the  shoar, 
but  the  great  fishes  at  a  greater  distance,  the  Seath  fish  is 
catched  at  the  foot  of  rocks  close  by  the  shoar  and  is  only 
found  upon  this  coast  May  June  and  July.  About  the  latter 
end  of  July  the  Mackrell  returns  and  for  bait  is  fished  with  a 
peice  of  her  own  belly,  they  can  also  be  catched  with  other 
fish ;  they  are  lean  when  they  come  first,  but  they  fatten 
here. 

This  part  of  the  Coast  lyes  very  near  East  and  West,  for 
with  a  compass  from  the  top  of  a  high  rock  hard  by  this  place 
we  found  that  the  point  of  Rose-heartie  six  miles  Eastward 
and  the  Northside  of  the  Binnhill  being  within  a  mile  and  a 
half  of  the  sea,  and  seventeen  miles  westward  did  lye  in  a 
straight  line  East  and  West,  this  was  tried  about  three 
years  agoe,  what  Variation  the  needle  then  had  I  know  not. 

This  place  of  the  Country  is  very  mountainous  and  the  sea 
rocks  are  very  steep  and  high,  some  of  them  reaching  to  the 
height  of  six  score  fourteen  or  seven  score  ells  Flanders 
Measure.  Of  this  height  is  the  hill  of  Gamrie,  where  the 
Danes  at  their  landing  received  a  repulse  by  the  Thane  of 
Buchan  as  Boetius  mentions.  Of  this  battell  or  rather 
skirmish  we  have  at  this  day  no  great  monuments  save  towards 
the  top  of  the  forsaid  rock  there  are  some  holes  in  the  Earth 
that  bear  the  name  of  bloodie  pots  and  eastwards  a  myle 
there  is  another  artificial  pairt  which  bears  the  name  of  Clow- 
dans,  here  are  some  sculls  which  are  built  upon  the  wall  of  the 
Church  of  Gamrie  and  said  to  be  placed  there  in  memorie  of 
the  victory. 

Other  rocks  we  have  none  that  reach  this  height  by 
twentie  four  ells,  for  I  had  the  curiosity  to  try  them  with  a 
cord.  All  these  rocks  are  very  well  replenished  with  sea 


136       NORTH  COAST  OF  BUCHAN 

fowls  and  doves,     in  them  also  holds  a  faulcon  yearly  at  a 
place  two  miles  eastward  from   Gamrie,  near  two  myles  East- 
wards of  which  holds  an  Eagle  of  the  largest  size,  in  the  rocks 
of  Pennan,  some  places  wherof  afford   very  good  millstone, 
that  certainly  there  are  none  better  if  any  so  good  in  Scot- 
land; they  are  of  a  grayish  colour  enclining  to  red.     Some 
places  of  these  rocks  afford  stones  for  building  but  in  no  great 
abundance  except  the  forsaid  hill  of  Pennan,  So  that  all  our 
rocks  are  altogether  useless  affording  neither  slate  nor  Quarrie 
stone,     the  forsaid  hill  of  Gamrie  is  of  the  slate  kind,  but 
they  are  so  brittle  that  they  serve  for  litle  or  no  use     the  rest 
of  our  rocks  are  either  of  a  black  hard  rock  and  as  it  were 
congealed  heaps  of  peebles  or  a  soft  and  reddish  coloured  rock. 
Our  sea  fouls  frequent  most  the  black  rocks  for  our  slate  kind 
of  rocks  and  reddish  are  not  so  much  frequented  by  them. 
159.      The  severall  positions  and  postures  of  the  beds  of  rocks  are 
as  observable  here  as  in  most  places  and  severall  great  rocks 
may  be  manifestly  perceived  once  to  have  been  whole,  at  least 
it  appears  so  to  me,  tho  now  torn  asunder.     Several  of  the 
great  Caverns  or  natural  vaults,  which  are  in  great  abundance 
amongst  these  rocks,  are  replenished  with  a  white  firm  stone 
and  very  hard  and  it  affords  the  best  lime,  but  here  we  make 
not  much  use  of  it,  it  not  being  to  be  had  in  any  considerable 
quantity.     It  evidently  appears  sometime  to  have  been  a  fluid 
being  always  seen  hanging  from  the  tops  of  these  vaults  in 
such  form  as   the  congealed  drops  in  frost   hang  at  houses, 
with  this  only  difference,  in  these  stones  I  oftimes  observed  a 
hollowness   to  the  length   as   the   pillar  of  stone  hangs,  the 
hollowness  would  have  been  no  bigger  than  the  core  of  a  tree, 
from  Gamrie   westwards  the  Coast  descends,   so  that  within 
three  miles  of  it,  the  sea  banks  are  very  low.     thus  it  is  also 
from  Pennan  eastwards,     the  sea  here  affords  several  kinds  of 
plants  growing  on  rocks  under  water  which  we  term  under  one 
name  of  Ware,     this  the  sea  casts  in  great  abundance  and 
there  is  no  better  dung  for  land  than  it  proves,  four  hundred 
load  being  sufficient  for  an  acre.     We  have  nothing  else  cast 
in  by  the  sea  or  any  remark  save  firr  that  has  lyen  long  in  the 
sea,  we  find  when  cast  in  very  much  overgrown  with  a  kind  of 
shell  fish  which  are  rooted  in  the  stock  by  a  trunk  of  flesh  or 


NORTH  COAST  OF  BUCHAN       137 

resembling  flesh  about  two  inches  long  in  so  much  that  when 
cut  or  broke  off  it  will  bleed,  the  shells  of  this  fish  doe  some- 
what represent  the  wings  of  a  fowl  and  in  the  end  of  it 
farthest  from  the  tree  it  hath  a  membrane,  which  I  suppose  to 
be  the  Gill,  but  it  represents  the  train  of  a  fowl,  these  two 
with  the  trunk  of  flesh,  which  some  think  to  be  the  neck,  gives 
occasion  to  that  conjecture  of  this  being  a  kind  of  the  Clack 
Geese  production,  but  sure  it  is  not  so,  for  we  never  find  this 
creature  bigger  than  about  the  quantity  of  a  mans  nail,  but 
we  will  find  them  much  lesse.  however  these  trees  bear  the 
name  of  Clackfirr.  In  summer  time  We  see  abundance  of  sea 
nettles  floating  in  the  water  with  long  roots  at  them.  1 
know  nothing  of  their  production,  but  their  substance  is  like 
the  white  of  an  egg,  but  by  far  more  strong  and  firm,  it  is 
sometimes  cast  in  among  ware,  it  prejudges  the  hands  if  much 
touched. 

Betwixt  the  watermouth  of  Devern  six  miles  westward  of 
this,  and  the  Church  of  Raithen  nine  miles  eastward  of  this, 
alongst  the  coast  or  at  least  within  a  mile  or  two  of  it,  are 
severall  verie  great  heaps  of  stones ;  the  biggest  of  which  is 
Cairnbo  three  miles  westward  of  this,  it  will  be  of  perpen- 
dicular height  from  top  to  bottom  twixt  29  and  30  foots  Eng- 
lish measure.  Of  these  in  the  forsaid  bounds  there  are  seven 
or  eight,  besides  severall  other  lesser  mounts  of  earth  and 
stone,  the  common  tradition  is  that  these  were  the  sumptuous 
tombs  of  our  ancestors,  but  it  is  somewhat  odd  so  many  of 
them  in  so  litle  bounds. 

In  severall  places  through  Scotland  there  are  to  be  seen 
very  great  stones  (that  it  is  wonderfull  how  men  could  have 
moved  them)  brought  together  and  set  on  end,  some  one  way 
and  some  another  and  for  the  most  part  on  tops  of  risings  of 
hills.  It  is  the  common  tradition  that  they  have  been  the 
places  of  Pagan  sacrifices,  for  it  is  like  that  it  hath  been  a 
ceremonie  of  the  heathen  worship  to  be  on  high  places.  I 
never  minded  to  observe  if  there  could  be  any  footsteps  of  fire 
perceived  on  these  stones.  We  find  Jacob  set  up  a  stone 
Gen.  28,  18,  and  if  this  have  been  a  Cerimonie  of  Religion  in 
these  days,  as  is  lyke,  the  Pagan  Idolatrie  no  doubt  has  had 
something  in  imitation  therof. 


138  NORTH  COAST  OF  BUCHAN 

This  place  of  the  Country  is  full  of  dens  and  rysings  of 
grounds  so  that  for  the  most  part  all  our  cornfeild  lie  very 
dry,  so  that  they  can  be  none  of  the  most  fertile,  for  the 
husbandman  who  payes  the  two  part  of  the  value  of  his  seed, 
is  thought  to  have  a  dear  valued  possession  and  they  who  pay 
the  half  or  less  are  thought  to  have  very  cheap  ones.  Yet 
some  of  them  are  not  able  to  pay  so  much  and  we  have  some 
grounds  again  so  fertile,  that  if  there  were  any  considerable 
quantity  so,  the  husband  would  be  able  easily  to  pay  the 
double. 

161.  We  have  also,  as  most  part  of  Scotland  hath,  much  barren 
ground  almost  wholly  useless  affording  nothing  but  some 
short  heath  with  very  litle  grass  amongst  it,  so  that  ane  acre 
of  it  were  too  little  pasture  for  one  sheep,  in  this  kind  of 
ground  for  the  most  part  are  all  our  mosses  of  which  we  make 
fewell.  this  kind  of  earth  before  it  be  cast  up,  it  is  ,all  one 
which  way  it  be  cut,  because  of  its  great  moisture  and  softness; 
I  believe  it  cutts  easiest,  when  cut  even  down,  because  that 
goes  with  the  roots  of  the  grass,  with  which  some  mosses  are 
much  replenished  but  when  it  is  win  and  made  dry  it  is  found 
that  it  lyes  in  beds  even  as  rocks  do  and  I  suppose  these  beds 
follow  the  levell  or  inclination  of  the  soil  which  they  lye  upon 
however  it  is  certain  that  it  hath  such  beds  and  will  cleave 
more  easily  one  way  than  another,  even  as  rocks  will  do.  As 
also  in  the  very  best  of  moss  grounds,  which  are  ever  on  the 
tops  of  hills,  whose  peits  when  dry  are  exceiding  hard  and  will 
suffer  stress  unbroken  as  well  as  brick,  yet  such  of  them  as  are 
cast  downwards  from  top  to  bottom  are  so  brittle  that  they 
will  hardly  carrie  home  they  are  so  apt  to  break.  Some  of 
this  kind  of  earth  is  found  commonly  in  low  marish  ground 
with  a  green  scroof,  these  mosses  are  not  so  good  for  few  el, 
but  they  are  better  for  pasture  than  our  hill  mosses  overgrown 
with  heath  however  our  hill  mosses  afford  a  long  small  grass 
about  the  breadth  of  a  straw  and  a  foot  or  two  high,  which 
catle  feed  upon  greedily :  So  that  some  mosses  are  so  weel 
replenished  with  this  moscrop  as  they  call  it,  that  they  are 
very  good  pasture,  none  of  our  mosses  afford  firr  or  oak  in  any 
quantity,  our  hill  mosses  have  none  at  all. 

As  for  our  manner  of  husbandrie,  there  is  little  observable 


NORTH  COAST  OF  BUCHAN  139 

in  it.  We  have  three  or  four  kinds  of  earth.  A  black  earth, 
which  we  call  Marblie  ground.  Of  this  we  have  not  most,  but 
it  is  the  best  of  all  our  soiles  either  in  grass  or  corn ;  for  some  , 
of  it  when  rightly  manured  will" render  the  seventh  or  eight 
corn  either  of  bear  oats  or  other  grain ;  and  when  in  grass,  it 
affords  the  best  of  grass  such  as. cleaver  and  fitch  grass  and 
medden  which  I  think  may  rather  be  termed  a  wild  white  162. 
single  daisie.  these  I  have  seen  with  severall  other  herbs  and 
grass  to  grow  and  ordinarily  does  on  sides  and  tops  of  hills 
where  this  earth  is,  to  such  length  as  might  very  easily  be 
mown  or  shorn ;  for  this  kind  of  earth  is  not  very  apt  to  be 
spoiled  either  with  rain  or  drought. 

We  have  another  black  soile  inclining  to  the  nature  of 
Mosse  that  affords  only  a  kind  of  short  hard  grass,  but  is  of  no 
use  for  corn,  unless  when  the  furrows  are  set  in  heaps  and 
burned,  then  it  affords  plentie  of  corn,  but  ever  after  is  naught 
except  where  the  ground  is  deep  or  has  a  clay  sole,  this  kind 
of  husbandry  is  not  much  in  use  with  us  not  having  abundance 
of  such  grounds. 

We  have  also  a  clay-soile  which  is  exceeding  ill,  where  the 
upper  scrooff'  is  not  mixed  with  a  marble  soile,  which  often 
falls  out,  but  it  is  not  so  fruitfull  neither  as  to  grass  nor  corns 
however  such  fields  when  in  grass  are  very  pleasant,  affording 
greate  variety  of  beautifull  flowers  and  usefull  for  grass,  but 
not  to  that  length  that  more  marble  ground  does.  We  have 
of  clay es  three  kinds,  a  yellow  which  is  the  strongest  and  best 
of  them  all  for  work  either  potters  work  or  tyle.  A  reedish 
which  is  very  good  also.  We  observe  where  these  two  are  the 
soile,  the  upper  scrooft'  of  the  earth  is  better  both  for  corn  and 
grasse  than  other  sole,  supposing  alwayes  the  earth  above  to 
be  marble  enough.  We  have  also  a  whitish  kind  of  clay 
which  is  very  bad  for  all  kind  of  work,  being  wrought  never 
so  weell  it  remains  alwayes  brittle  and  other  clayes  the  freer 
they  are  from  the  mixture  of  this,  they  are  so  much  the  better 
for  work,  this  clay  is  not  so  good  a  sole  as  the  other  two. 

We  have  also  a  black  yellowish  kind  of  soile  enclining  to  a 
dark  reddish  colour,  this  is  that  which  we  call  Haslie  ground, 
this  kind  of  earth  is  not  very  fruitfull  for  grass,  affording  only 
some  kinds  of  dog  grass,  but  the  more  tincture  it  hath  of 


140  NORTH  COAST  OF  BUCHAN 

marble  ground  with  it,  the  better  it  is  both  for  grass  and 
corne  it  is  aptest  for  the  growing  of  small  corns  and  is  very 

163.  universall  but  the  places  near  to  the  sea  side  are  most  re- 
plenished with  the  marble  and  the  claye  soile. 

Of  all  these  earths  and  clayes  there  is  such  various  mixtures 
that  they  cannot  be  exprest.  All  grounds  as  most  of  Scot- 
land are  that  encline  to  the  nature  of  moors  are  esteemed 
late,  cold  ground  and  the  more  it  enclines  that  way,  it  is  the 
colder  and  later  and  apt  to  be  spoiled  with  rains  and  frosts, 
these  kinds  of  places  are  esteemed  good  for  grazing  and  so 
much  the  better  if  they  be  upon  a  claye  soile ;  but  nothing 
comparable  to  the  pure  marble  soile,  but  that  is  not  in  great 
abundance,  and  where  it  is,  it  is  ever  keep'd  in  corne  which 
makes  the  husbandmen  in  all  such  places  ever  complain  for 
scarcity  of  grasse. 

We  have  except  in  marble  and  clay  grounds,  but  one 
furrow  of  depth,  so  that  much  ground  is  now  with  often 
ploughing  and  manuring,  turned  so  thin  that  it  is  altogether 
useless  either  for  grass  and  corns  and  because  of  this  many 
mens  estates  are  not  able  to  keep  up  the  antient  rentall. 

The  husbandman  keeps  in  some  of  his  grounds  constantly 
under  corn  and  bear  by  dunging  it  everie  thrie  years,  a  third 
yearly  with  what  dung  his  Cattle  afford  in  Winter,  and  for  his 
pains  if  he  reap  the  fourth  corn,  he  is  satisfied,  but  in  good 
marble  and  claye  soiles  they  use  to  mix  their  Catle  dung  with 
marish  earth  or  scrooff  of  useless  ground  and  letting  them  rot 
a  year  together,  put  them  to  the  land  in  the  beginning  of 
Winter  and  will  reap  after  this  the  fifth  or  sixth  corn, 
ordinarly  they  use  to  put  at  most,  seven  hundred  cartfulls  to 
the  acre  of  land,  that  which  hath  a  great  tincture  of  Mossie 
soile,  except  the  earth  that  is  dunged  with,  encline  much  to 
claye  :  and  pure  heaslie  ground  will  not  answer  with  this  either, 
unless  the  earth  that  it's  dunged  with  be  very  marble,  but 
these  kinds  of  ground  they  only  use  to  dung  with  what  their 
Cattel  affords  because  for  the  most  part  near  them  there  is  not 
earth  sutable  to  dung  them  with.  Land  thus  keeped  in  is 
called  In  town. 

164.  Our  Outfields  when  they  have  been  grass  four  or  five  years 
are  ploughed  up  and  letting  them  lie  a  summer  thus  ploughed 


NORTH  COAST  OF  BUCHAN       141 

we  plow  them  over  again,  and  sow  them  the  next  spring  and 
in  our  best  outfields  if  we  reap  the  fourth  or  fifth  corn  the  year, 
we  are  satisfied,  yea  the  third  is  very  well  thought  off.  Yet  in 
some  outfeilds  thus  manured  I  have  seen  the  sixth  or  seventh 
but  this  so  seldome  that  it  is  not  to  be  noticed.  We  observe 
that  land  is  much  the  worse  (if  it  could  be  eschewed)  to  be 
plowed  either  in  frosts  or  after  great  rain. 

Some  of  our  grounds  for  keeping  our  cattell  in  the  night 
time  we  enclose  in  summer  and  before  the  later  end  of  harvest 
they  dung  this  enclosed  ground,  so  that  it  is  as  fruitfull  for  the 
first  and  second  crops  as  the  best  of  our  Intowns  and  it  will 
bear  four  crops  before  it  need  to  lye  in  grass :  but  of  our  Out- 
fields that  are  not  thus  dunged,  four  crops  is  all  that  we 
receive.  Four  years  of  grass  in  the  best  grounds  or  five  years 
in  the  worse  with  the  number  of  crops  as  is  above  said, 
is  the  best  method  of  manuring  our  Outfield  grounds. 

Our  sea  coast  affords  abundance  of  sea  calfs,  some  of  which 
Avill  be  eight  foot  long  but  we  have  no  way  of  catching  them 
except  be  Gunshot.  Our  seamen  doe  oftimes  see  whales  of 
very  great  bigness,  as  also  the  dolphin  or  a  fish  at  least  that  we 
esteem  to  be  so,  severall  times  near  the  coast  and  we  severall 
times  see  the  whales  of  greater  and  lesser  quantity  but  in 
no  great  abundance,  and  possibly  that  which  wee  esteem  to 
be  the  dolphin  is  but  a  kind  of  them. 

Thus  I  have  given  you  an  account  of  what  I  thought  was  of 
any  remark  here,  and  shall  if  it  be  requisite  give  you  a  more 
full  account  of  our  fowls  both  by  sea  and  land.  As  to  the 
customs  and  fashions  of  our  white  fishers  everie  place  hath  its 
own  way  with  them  even  within  a  very  few  miles  distance  and  165, 
the  advantage  that  redounds  to  the  Master  for  everie  boat 
he  has  the  convenience  of,  I  reckon  no  better,  tho  improven  to 
the  best  advantage,  than  fiftie  pounds  Scots  a  year,  the  worst 
of  land  which  the  fishers  have,  the  manure  is  of  such  a  kind 
that  it  improves  it  to  be  as  good  as  any,  and  comes  to  be  of 
that  nature  that  they  have  lived  a  long  time  upon  it,  that  it 
will  never  after  yeild  any  plentie  of  oats :  but  all  other  grain 
it  will  yield  in  great  abundance.  We  do  not  keep  in  much  of 
our  ground  in  this  countrie  with  pease  however  some  places 
near  the  coast,  they  use  so  to  manure,  the  only  universal 


NORTH  COAST  OF  BUCHAN 

grains  of  this  countrie  are  bear  and  oats  any  other  are  of 
litle  or  no  use  with  us. 

Troup  May  1683. 

I  forgot  in  my  last  to  acquaint  you  of  the  herbs  that 
molest  our  corn  in  their  growth  but  we  are  not  troubled  with 
any  except  the  skellach  or  wild  Mustard,  which  is  in  great 
abundance  in  our  best  cornfeilds  but  does  not  much  prejudice, 
the  Yarrow  molests  our  black  land  that  enclines  to  mosse 
this  weed  does  in  such  soiles  or  marblie  land  that  lies  very 
moist,  very  greatly  prejudge  the  Oats  but  mostly  bear,  but 
in  Clay  soile  it  never  does  much  prejudice;  in  our  best  corn- 
feilds there  are  abundance  of  thistles  but  they  do  no  great 
harm,  however  some  use  to  cut  them  down  in  the  beginning 
of  June.  As  for  the  corn  marigold  we  have  them  not  in  great 
abundance. 

We  have  no  sand  soyl  in  this  place,  but  where  it  is,  there  is 
ever  for  the  most  part  good  cornfeild.  I  have  oft  observed 
places  much  overblown  with  sea  sand  to  afford  no  other  grass 
but  medden  or  white  single  dasie.  this  is  good  food  for  all 
kind  of  Cattell  but  it  comes  to  no  great  length. 

There  is  no  marie  to  be  found  in  this  part  of  the  countrie. 
We  have  no  Corn  Craiks  here  amongst  our  corns  in  summer. 
In  winter  there  is  great  abundance  of  the  small  bird  called 
the  Snowfleck  it  is  supposed  to  be  the  moor  sparrow  or 
166.  Lintwhite  having  changed  their  colour  a  litle  whiter  in  the 
winter. 

I  was  to  have  said  something  concerning  the  severall  kinds 
of  soyles  with  us,  but  there  are  a  great  many  and  diverse 
kinds  of  them  however  I  see  no  reason  to  judge  otherwise 
than  that  all  of  them  proceed  from  the  diverse  and  numerous 
mixtures  of  the  beds,  (such  as  clayes,  gravell,  and  sand,)  with 
the  Marblie  and  Mossie  soiles.  We  find  a  marblie  soyle  on  a 
clay  bed  is  absolutely  the  best  both  for  corns  and  grass ;  if  it 
have  a  considerable  mixture  of  the  clay  amongst  it,  it  is  the 
worse  unless  it  have  some  mixture  of  sand  or  gravell,  but  this 
kind  of  mixture  is  not  best  for  grasse.  Land  that  has  a  great 
mixture  of  Clay  will  be  excellent  for  grass  if  it  be  not  the 
whitish  kind  of  clay.  We  have  of  four  kinds,  a  yellow,  a 
reddish  and  blew,  these  three  are  excellent  beds  for  a  soyle 


NORTH  COAST  OF  BUCHAN  143 

and  are  good  for  potters  work,  the  whitish  pale  clay  is  good 
for  neither  and  when  the  rest  have  a  mixture  of  it,  they  are  so 
much  the  worse.  That  which  we  call  our  hazlie  ground  is 
nothing  else  but  when  the  soyle  has  a  great  mixture  with  the 
gravell  and  some  little  Clay.  Whatever  be  the  soyl,  whether 
marble  or  Mossie  kind,  which  we  call  cold  black  land,  it  hath 
ordinarily  a  great  mixture  of  the  sole  or  bed  that  it  lies  on, 
whether  clayes,  sand  or  gravell  and  it  enclines  to  the  colour  of 
them  and  the  sand  or  gravell  often  enclines  to  the  colour  of 
the  subterraneous  rocks  and  quarries  of  the  place.  I  believe 
where  there  is  much  of  a  countrie  of  one  kind  of  rock  it 
never  failes. 

I  never  observed  any  thing  concerning  the  tides  of  the  sea 
but  the  filling  sea  runs  East,  and  the  Ebb  runs  West.  There 
are  none  of  our  sea  harbours,  that,  except  at  stream  tide,  can 
receive  above  ten  foot  vessels.  Bamf  which  stands  at  the 
infall  of  Divern  six  miles  be  west  this,  is  so  subject  to 
banks  of  peebles  that  sometimes  at  full  sea  four  foot  is 
enough  and  too  much,  at  other  times  it  can  receive  nine  or  167. 
ten  foot. 

Down  a  naturall  harbour  half  a  mile  be  east  it  in  the 
summer  time  is  prettie  secure  for  about  eight  foot  water. 
About  Roseheartie  about  eleven  miles  be  east  Down  is 
expected  such  another  harbour  even  for  Winter  by  art  as  this 
of  Down  is  by  nature  being  begun  some  three  years  agoe 
by  my  Lord  Pitsligo.  Fraserburgh  an  artificial!  harbour  is 
the  best  on  this  part  of  the  Coast  being  able  to  receive  ten 
foot  at  neap  tide. 

Our  corns  near  the  sea  are  much  prejudged  sometimes  by 
great  North  winds  coming  off  the  sea  in  so  much  that  they 
ripen  no  more,  if  they  be  shot  before  these  winds  come ;  Corn, 
straw  and  all  being  made  salt  by  it.  this  we  call  blasting  and 
is  such  another  prejudice  near  the  sea  as  frost  is  in  the  moun- 
tainous countries. 

I  observed  once  a  mist  that  left  a  dew  behind  it  which 
tasted  like  sea  water  but  I  saw  no  prejudice  it  did. 


144  HIGHLANDS— COWELL 

168.          ANE  DESCRIPTIONS  of  CERTAINE  PAIRTS  of  the 
HIGHLANDS  of  SCOTLAND. 

COWELL  in  Ardgyll  a  very  fertill  and   profitable  Countrie 
which  doeth  lye  on  the  Northsyde  of  Loghloing,  and  on  the 
southeast  Syde  of  Loghfyne,  and  in  this  Countrie  there  is  a 
toune  callit  Dunoun,  whairin  there  is  ane  antient  Castle,  and 
certaine  Kings  were  wont  to  dwell  for  one  space  therein,     and 
the    Earle    of  Argyll    hes    certane   lands    pertaining  to  this 
Castle,  which  is  given  for  upholding  and  keeping  of  the  said 
Castle,  onlie  appertaining  to  the  Castle,  of  Antiquitie  and  the 
Bishopes  and  Ministers  of  the  Diocie  of  Argyll  and  Lismore 
otherwayes    called    Lismarensis   doeth    conveen    and    gather 
themselves  together  once  in  the  yeare  in  the  same  toune  of 
Dunoune  being  the  twentie  fourt  day  of  May,  holds  and  keeps 
their  schenzie  and  assemblie  therin  for  the  space  of  certaine 
dayes.      Bot   in    antient   tymes    of    Antiquitie,   the    clergie 
Ministers  or  Priests  were  wont  to  hold  and  keep  their  Assemblie 
and  schenzie  in  ane  ancient  toune  thrie  miles  from  Dunoune 
which  is  called  Kilmoune  on  the  Northeast  syde  of  Loghseant. 
The   Interpretation    of  Loghseant    in  English    is    the  holie 
Logh.      And  it  is  ane  verie  antient  toune  which  hath  ane 
prettie  Church  builded  therin  where  monks  friers  and  Nunns 
were  wont  to  dwell  and  inhabite  therein  being  ane  ancient 
sanctuarie.     And  this  toune  is  on  the  Northeast  of  this  holie 
Logh  called  Loghseant.     there  is  abundance  of  herrings  taken 
in  that  Logh.     And  there  is  another  Logh  on  the  eastsyde  of 
this  Kilmoune  which  is  called  Lochgoill.     And  there  is  abund- 
ance of  herrings  taken  in  that  Logh  also.     There  is  ane  river 
running  into  Loghseant  which  is  called  Eagie  and  there  is 
certaine  lands  Lyand  on  everie  syde  of  the  said  river  which  is 
called  Straeaghie.     This  Straeaghie  is  one  pleasant  and  pro- 
fitable countrie  being  both  fertill  of  corne,  and  abundance  of 
milk  therein.     This  Countrey  doth  Lye  Southwest  to  Logh- 
169.  fyne  and  there  is  a  fresh  water  Logh  betwixt  these  two  sea 
water   Loghes    which    fresh   water  is  called    Loghaik.     It    is 
rough  everie  syde  with  high  mountaines  and  verie  profitable 
to  the  Earle  of  Argyll  the  Master  and  Superior  thereoff  for  it 
is  very  fertill  of  grass,  for  goods,  goatis   and   sheep   to   feed 


HIGHLANDS— INVERARAY  145 

theron.  And  there  is  aboundance  of  milk,  butter  and  cheese 
in  the  said  Loghaick  And  there  is  another  Lands  or  Stra 
which  is  called  Strayhurr  between  this  two  Strais  or  litle 
Countries  Strayhnee  and  StradayMe  lyes  that  fresh  water 
Logh  which  is  called  Loghaick.  The  one  head  of  this  Logh 
doeth  lye  southward  to  the  heid  of  Loghseant  and  the  other 
heid  lyeth  almost  northwest  to  Lochfyne  And  so  it  doeth 
lye  betwixt  these  two  Strayes  Just  lie.  These  two  countries 
are  verie  commodious  profitable  and  most  fertill  countries 
both  of  corne,  milk,  butter  and  cheese  And  in  this  Stray- 
hurr there  is  a  litle  glen  on  the  Northeast  syde  thereoff  and 
litle  river  flowing  in  the  sea  out  of  this  glen  and  the  name 
of  the  said  Glen  is  called 

There  is  ane  Church  in  Strayhurr  not  far  from  the  sea 
water  and  the  ferrie  of  Loghfyne  which  is  called  Kilmaglash, 
there  isfyfteen  myles  betwixt  Dunoune  and  the  ferrie  of  Logh- 
fyne And  three  myles  betwixt  the  ferrie  of  Portchregan  on 
the  Northsyde  of  Loghfyne  and  Inerraray,  the  Earle  of 
Argylls  principall  dwelling  place  in  the  Highlands  of  Scot- 
land. And  there  is  a  verie  faire  and  plesant  dwelling  Pallace 
and  yairds  builded  in  that  toun,  be  this  Archibald  Campbell 
Earl  of  Argyll,  and  sundrie  zeairds,  some  of  them  with  divers 
kynd  of  herbs  growing  and  sett  therintill.  And  other  zairds 
planted  with  sundrie  fruit  trees  verie  prettilie  sett,  and 
planted,  and  there  faire  greens  to  walk  upone,  with  one  wall 
of  stone  and  lyme  builded  laitlie  about  the  said  green.  This 
toune  of  Inveraray  is  very  profitable  and  fertill  both  of  comes 
and  abundance  of  herrings  is  taken  there,  for  it  lyeth  at 
the  seacoast  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  water  of  Reray.  This 
Inveraray  is  a  village  being  one  frie  litle  burgh  in  Argyll 
haveing  libertie  and  full  power  to  buy  and  sell  all  kynd 
of  Merchandize  and  wares  which  they  may  amongst  them- 170. 
selves  both  of  the  countrie  stuff  and  other  wares  which  they 
may  bring  with  them  out  of  other  countries.  The  river  which 
is  called  Reray,  doth  flow  into  the  seawater  Loghfyne.  This 
Loghfyne  doeth  flow  eastward  from  Inveraray  And  at  the 
head  of  the  said  Logh  there  is  a  Church  called  Kilmoirch,  the 
water  or  river  of  Fyne  doeth  run  through  ane  glen  which  is 

VOL.  n.  K 


146  HIGHLANDS— LOGHFYNE 

called  Glenfyne,  efter  the  name  of  the  river  of  Fyne  and  this 
glen  is  verie  profitable  and  there  is  abundance  of  fish,  salmond 
and  milk  therein  And  in  the  said  Loghfyne  there  are  abund- 
ance of  herring  and  several  other  fishes  slain  therin.  Thaire 
is  one  Castle  on  the  southsyde  of  this  Loghfine  called  Ardkin- 
glais  having  faire  yeards  planted  with  sundrie  kinds  of  fruit 
trees  therein,  and  sundrie  kinds  of  herbs.  The  Superior  and 
Master  of  this  Castle  is  called  Mceanrich  being  one  of  the  most 
ancient  housis  of  the  Name  of  the  Campbells  descendit  of  the 
Earle  of  Argyll  his  house  and  kin,  there  is  one  litle  river  on 
the  east  syde  of  this  castle  which  is  Ginglais,  and  there  is  a 
glen  where  throw  this  water  or  litle  river  doeth  flow  called 
Glenginglais  efter  the  name  of  the  water.  There  is  certaine 
Mylls  betwixt  Keanloghgoill  and  Ardhinglais  fyve  mylls  or 
therby  :  There  is  abundance  of  herring  slaine  in  this  Loghgoill 
as  is  affoirwrittin.  And  there  is  another  glen  at  the  head  of 
this  Logh  and  ane  river  running  through  that  glen  which  is 
called  Goillin  And  there  is  abundance  of  salmond  fish  slain 
in  the  river  and  the  glen,  and  the  Logh  is  called  efter  the 
Name  of  the  water  or  river  Glengoillin,  and  Loghgoillin, 
there  are  divers  glens  on  the  East,  Southeast,  and  West  or 
North  syds  of  this  glen,  And  they  verie  profitable  fertill  and 
plenteous  of  milk.  There  is  one  little  church  at  the  southeast 
syde  of  Loghfine  not  farr  from  this  Glengoillin  which  is  called 
Killcatherine. 

Thair  is  one  glenn  on  the  Northsyde  of  Loghfyne  which  is 
called  Glensyro,  and  this  Glensyro  is  one  verie  fertill  glen  both 
of  butter,  cheese  and  corne  and  profitable.  There  is  abundance 
171.  of  salmond  fish  slaine  in  the  river  which  goeth  through  that 
glen.  This  river  is  called  Shiray  And  this  river  being  verie 
strong  and  running  swiftlie  through  the  Countrey  in  tyme  of 
speats  and  vehement  tempest  and  stormie  weather,  hath  taken 
away  and  destroyed  manie  lands,  housis,  biggings  builded  with 
stone  and  lyme  and  zairds  with  innumerable  fruit  trees  planted 
therein,  and  sundrie  other  corne  lands  on  everie  syde  of  the 
said  river,  and  in  the  place  where  the  Countrey  men  were  wont 
to  slay  the  salmond  fish  before  in  the  said  river,  now  corne 
doth  grow  theron  And  it  is  verie  profitable,  fertill  and  plea- 
sant cornland,  and  whaire  there  was  zairdis,  cornelands,  fruit- 


HIGHLANDS— LOGHOW  147 

trees  and  sundrie  herbs  and  housis  biggings  &  other  buildings 
before  the  river  doeth  runn  throvvout  the  same  to  the  sea  and 
especial  lie  Kilblaen  in  the  Glensyra  on  the  southsyd  of  the 
water  of  Glensyra  &  it  is  in  one  lowplace  betwixt  Mountaines 
everie  syd  of  it,  And  there  is  verie  manie  Deir  in  that  Countrey 
pertaining  to  the  Earle  of  Argyll. 

There  is  one  litle  fresh  water  Logh  wherin  this  water  dohh 
runn  betwixt  it  and  the  seawater  Loghfyne;  and  there  is 
abundance  of  salmond  fish  slaine  yearlie  in  that  Logh,  It  is 
not  fan*  from  Inveraray  for  the  Earle  of  Argyll  uses  oftymes 
to  come  to  this  Logh  to  behold  and  sie  the  salmond  fish  slaine. 
This  water  doth  runn  through  that  Glen  from  the  East  to  the 
South.  As  also  there  will  be  a  great  number  of  swans  in  this 
Logh.  Glennaray  is  a  verie  profitable  Glen,  being  of  length 
from  the  toune  of  Inveraray  to  the  farest  off  toune  in  the  bray 
or  head  of  that  glen,  but  foure  mylls  onlie,  and  certaine  length 
in  breadth.  And  there  is  foure  mylls  from  the  head  or  bray 
of  Glenaray,  and  the  ferric  of  Lochow  called  Portsoinghan 
And  these  foure  mylls  they  are  verie  dangerous  to  travel  or  goe 
through  this  hill,  which  is  called  Monikleaganich,  in  tyme  of 
evill  stormie  weather,  in  winter  especiallie  for  it  is  ane  high 
Mountaine. 

LOGHOW  is  ane  fresh  water  Logh,  and  its  of  twentie  four 
mylls  of  length  and  one  My  11  in  breadth.  The  one  head  of  it 
doeth  ly  southwest  to  Glasrie  &  Ardeskeodines  and  the  other 
head  thereoff  lyeth  oft*  to  Glenurquhy  or  somewhat  Northeast. 
There  is  certaine  Illands  in  Lochow  And  the  Principall  Illand 
called  Inchtrayinch  and  there  other  Illands  not  farr  from  this 
Illand  called  Insheayll.  And  there  is  one  Church  therintill. 
There  is  one  Castle  on  the  southsyde  of  Lochow  called  Inshe- 
chonnill  pertaining  to  the  Earll  of  Argyll.  There  is  another 
Castle  pertaining  to  the  Laird  of  Glenurquhy  at  the  eist 
heid  of  Lochow  at  the  southsyde  thereoff;  and  on  the  North - 
syde  of  the  east  heid  of  this  Logh  there  is  a  town  which  the 
McGregours  were  wont  to  dwell  and  inhabite  in,  sometimes 
which  is  called  Stronimiallachan  in  Glenstra.  This  Castle  of 
Glenurquheys  is  called  Castle  Cheilchorne  and  there  is  ane 
Church  in  Glennrquhie  which  is  called  Claghane-diseirt.  this 
Stranimiallachan  is  now  manured  occupied  and  used  be  the 


148  HIGHLAiNDS— LOCHOW 

Laird  of  Glenurquhie  and   his  sone,   there  is  abundance  of 
salmond  fish  in  this  Lochovv.     The  river  of  Aw  runneth  out 
of  this  Logh   certaine   myles  from  the  head  thereof  on  the 
Northsyde,  And  the  river  of  Aw  is  but  sex  or  sevin  mylles  of 
length  or  thereby.    And  it  is  weel  deep,  and  somewhat  broad. 
There  is  abundance  of  salmond  fish  slaine  yearlie  in  the  water 
of  Aw,  in  sundrie  and   divers  appoynted   pairts  of  the  said 
river,  and  speciallie  every  syde  of  the  mouth  of  the  river.     It 
runns  into  the  salt  sea,  and  Logh  which  is  called  LoghedifF 
And  there  is  abundance  of  salmon  fish  slaine  yearlie  in  this 
Logh  and  lykwayes  ther  is  abundance  of  Eells,  in  that  Loche- 
diff'  which  the  men  of  the  Countrey  alleadges  and  perswade 
others  that  the  saids  Eells  are  alse  bigg  as  ane  horse  with  ane 
certane  Incredible  length,  which  I  think  not  to  be  reported  of, 
al waves  it  is  liklie  to  be  true  in  respect  none  of  the  Countrey- 
173-  men  dare  hazard  themselves  in  a  boatt  to  slay  the  ells  with 
lynes.     They  were  wont  to  sie   them  slaine  by  ane  ancienl 
man,   who   had   great  practize  and  arte  of  the  said  trade ; 
Ancient  men    of  Mucarne   and   Beanderlogh    the   countrey* 
which  are  on  the  South  and  Northsyde  of  that  Logh  reportil 
that  this  Ancient  fisher  of  the  Eells  his  Lyne  wherewith  h< 
did  slay  these  bigg  and  exceeding  long  Eells  were  alse  bigg  in 
greatness  as  a  mans  finger,  and  that  his  hook  was  excedin; 
bigg,  and  the  Lyne  whereon  the  hook  did  hang,  was  knitt  al 
with  feathers  to  hold  and  keep  itself  uncutt  from  the  eells  t( 
the  length  of  tvvall  inches  or  thereby  And  so  these  Marvelou? 
bigg  eels  were  tane  be  the  said  Ancient  fisher,  and  thereafter 
he  did  slay  them  with  another  device  made  for  the  purpose. 
And  so  the  countreymen  will  not  devyse  anie  Instruments  t( 
take  these  Eels  in  respect  of  their  bigness.     Bot  certane  mei 
of  the  countrey  do  take  and  slay  small  Eels  alse  bigg  as 
mans  thigh  or  thereby  with  a  lyne  als  big  as  ones  finger.    Am 
there  hook  is  very  bigg.     And  when  Eell  is  tane  on  the  hool 
to  the  land,  they  have  a  bigg  crook  of  Iron  or  pikes  made  foi 
that  purpose. 

The  southwest  end  or  head  of  the  said  Lochow  from  wheno 
this  river  of  Aw  runs,  is  at  Arskeodnes  and  Glasrie.  Thei 
is  a  castle  at  Arskeodness  called  Carnasrie  which  was  build< 
be  Mr  John  Carswall  Bishope  of  Argyll  Lismore  &  of  th< 


HIGHLANDS— KNAP-DAL  149 

Illands  of  the  highlands  of  Scotland,  and  this  Castle  was 
builded  be  him  to  the  Earle  of  Argyll,  and  there  is  ane 
Churchtoune  one  Myll  from  Carnasrie  which  is  called  Kilmar- 
tine  And  this  Mr  John  Carswall  and  Mr  Neill  Campbell 
which  succeidit  to  the  said  Mr  John  being  Bishope  of  Argyll, 
were  wont  to  dwell  in  that  towne  of  Kilmartine. 

Att  The  East  or  Northeast  head  of  Locliow  there  is  two 
glenns  and  one  river  running  throw  everie  of  them.  The  one 
glen  is  called  Glenurquhie  and  the  river  therof  is  verie  profit- 
able for  there  is  abundance  of  salmond  slain  therintill,  there 
is  verie  pleasant  and  fertill  lands  on  everie  syd  of  this  river 
and  this  Glen  is  twelfe  mylls  of  length  with  a  certane  breadth 
And  this  River  doth  runn  out  of  the  head  of  Lochgoill  And 
there  is  ane  litle  Castle  at  the  heid  of  that  Logh.  the  other 
Glen  is  called  Glenstrath,  and  it  appertaines  to  the  Mac- 
Gregoirs  of  ancient,  and  it  is  bot  twenty  merks  lands. 

In  Glasrie  there  is  one  Church  on  the  southsyde  of  the 
end  of  Lochow  which  is  called  Kilmichaell  in  Glasrie,  is  holden 
of  the  Constable  of  Dundee.  The  Laird  of  Achinabreck 
possesses  the  same.  It  lyeth  betwixt  the  Westsyde  of  Loch- 
fyne,  and  Gnaptill l  and  it  is  possessed  be  that  Constable.  It 
is  a  verie  fertill  &  profitable  countrey,  fertill  of  corne  and 
plenteous  off  milk  there  is  a  river  that  doeth  runn  betwixt 
Glasrie  and  Arskedness  and  this  river  is  betwixt  Gnaptill  and 
Arskcdness.  There  is  one  Castle  in  Glasrie  called  Duntrun, 
here  is  a  logh  on  the  West  syde  of  Loghfyne  fyfteen  myles 
from  Inveraray  called  Lochgair.  And  there  is  abundance  of 
fish  slaine  in  this  loch  and  specially  herrings.  There  is  another 
Logh  called  Loghgailbe  being  out  fyve  mylls  from  Loghgur, 
there  is  abundance  of  herrings  in  this  Logh. 

Cnaptill1  is  a  verie  profitable  countrie  being  rough  and 
craggie.  And  there  is  on  the  eastsyde  thereoff  a  Mountaine 
called  Glewffgaill  and  it  is  eight  mylles  of  length.  And  in  this 
Mountaine  there  is  ane  herb  which  if  anie  Man  or  Woman 
doeth  goe  over  it,  they  will  be  verie  faint,  and  have  no  power 
to  goe  whill  the  tyme  they  gett  meat  to  eate,  And  this  betwixt 
Loghgilbe  and  Terbett. 


'  Knap-dal '  is  interlined  in  MS. — ED. 


1 50     HIGHLANDS— TERBERT— LORNE 

Terbert  is  alwayes  called  a  Strait  or  narrow  passadge  where 
the  sea  almost  cuttes  betwixt  two  lands. 

And  in  this  Terbert  there  is  one  Castle  pertaining  to  the 
Earle  of  Argyll  and  one  litle  Logh  which  doeth  come  from  the 
east  and  another  Logh  foregainst,  which  doeth  flow  from  the 
West,  And  these  two  Locheids  they  are  but  one  short  myll 
175.  betwixt  them.  It  is  thought  that  with  great  charges  this 
passage  might  be  cutt  so  that  boats  might  pass  from  the  east 
seas  to  the  West  without  going  about  the  Mule  of  Kintyre, 
which  were  verie  profitable  for  such  as  travell  to  the  North 
Illands  in  regaird  the  Strait  betwixt  the  Mule  of  Kintyre  and 
the  glenis  of  Ireland  being  but  sixteen  mylles  makes  the  stream 
to  runn  with  such  force,  that  when  the  tyde  turnes,  altho  a 
ship  had  twentie  saills  all  full  of  wind,  she  shall  not  be  able 
to  goe  one  myll  against  the  tyde. 

Thair  is  one  countrey  next  to  Arskeadness  on  the  North- 
west syde  tharof  which  is  called  Craignes.  Ther  is  sundrn 
litle  Illands  in  this  Countrey  and  one  Castle  and  it  is  callec 
Castlecraigness.  This  countrie  is  commodious  profitable  am 
fertill  both  of  corne  butter  and  cheese  and  abundance  of  all 
kynd  of  fishes,  and  there  is  one  church  in  this  Countrie  call< 
Killmoire  in  Craignes. 

Melverd  is  one  litle  countrie  next  to  that  Countrie  of  Craig- 
ness  and  ane  verie  fertill  Countrie  and  profitable  and  abun- 
dance of  fish  slain  in  it. 

Next  to  Melverd  Lome  and  ane  litle  profitable  Glen  which 
is  called  Glenewgher  And  this  glen  is  profitable  of  corne  and 
milk  in  abundance. 

Lome  pertaining  to  the  Laird  of  Rew  is  called  Nether 
Lome.  Lome  pertaining  to  Mackcowl  of  that  ilk  is  midell 
Lome  wherein  Dunolih  stands. 

Dunnolih  The  principall  dwelling,  Castle  and  toune  of 
Mackcoull  of  Lome,  and  this  Castle  is  builded  on  ane  heigh 
Craig  or  Rock  above  the  sea.  It  is  a  verie  strong  castle. 

Dunstafnes  is  ane  strong  castle  of  the  Earle  of  Argyll  being 
the  principall  Palace  or  Castle  in  Lome.  It  is  ane  verie 
antient  castell  builded  be  one  king  called  Ewin  or  Ewgenius 
and  it  doeth  stand  on  ane  high  craig  or  rock  not  far  from  the 
seasyde.  There  is  but  thrie  Mylls  betwixt  Dunnolih  and 


HIGHLANDS— LORNE— KILMOIRE  1 51 

Dunstafnes  and  thrie  my  11s  betwixt  the  ferrie  of  the  Gonnell 
in  Lome  and  Dunstafnes.  This  ferrie  called  Gonnell  when 
the  sea  aither  ebbs  or  flows,  cryes  so  vehementlie  that  it  will  176. 
be  heard  far  off  in  sundrie  parts,  at  the  least  one  myll  or 
thereby,  And  when  folks  doeth  goe  over  that  ferrie,  the  boatt 
or  scoutt  doeth  goe  up  verie  high  and  otherwhiles  doun  verie 
low,  that  these  which  are  in  the  boat,  will  think  themselves 
likelie  to  be  drowned  in  the  sea,  And  the  cause  thereof  is  that 
there  are  Connalls  and  rocks  in  that  ferrie,  And  especiallie 
those  that  are  not  acquaint  with  the  ferrie,  will  be  more  aflfraid  ; 
It  is  said  that  there  sevenhundreth  merklands  in  the  Lordship 
of  Lome  divydit  amongst  sundrie  barronns,  the  superioritie 
and  regalitie  thereof  being  holden  be  the  Earle  of  Argyll. 

Thaire  is  one  Logh  of  sea  water,  not  far  from  Dunnolih, 
which  is  called  Loghfaighin  and  there  is  one  Church  not  farr 
from  the  head  of  this  Logh  which  is  called  Kilmoire.     In  this 
town  there  is  one  springand  fresh  water,  in  which  water  there 
are  two  black  litle  fishes,  And  when  they  see  anie  coming 
hither   to    the    springand    water,   they  will   hide  themselves 
underneath  a  broad  stone  which  is  within  the  water.     This 
stone  is  broad  and  thin.     The  saids  fishes  as  the  Inhabitants 
of  that  toune  report,  was  wont  to  take  this  stone  for  their 
saiftie  and  refuge  for  keeping  themselves  for  one  space  below 
the  said  stone,  and  they  are  seen  verie  oft  in  the  said  well  both 
winter  and  summer  and  all  other  tymes  of  the  yeare.     And  it 
is  out  of  all  men  and  woemen  that  was  dwelling  of  ancient  in 
that  toune  but  that  the  saids  fishes  hes  bein  ever  seen  being 
neither  more  nor  less  in  bigness  nor  yet  having  increasing  mor 
decreasing  of  procreatione  and  anie  of  their  own  kynd  nor  of 
other  kynde  of  fishes  but  ever  since  they  wer  aither  seen  or 
knowen,  being  of  one  bignes  of  one  colour,  which  they  doe 
take  as  a  miracle  or  a  marvelous  thing  in  respect  that  there  is 
neither  decreasing  nor  increasing  in  procreatione  of  them  or 
growing  in  bignes  nor  changeing  of  their  colour  in  all  tymes 
of  the  yeare.      And  therfore  the  Inhabitants  Indwellers  and 
tennants  both  ancient  men  and   women  and  others  in  that 
place  doe  call  the  saids  fishes  Eisgseant  that  is  to  say  holie 
fishes,  there  are  manie  Wyld  gray  gasis  in  this  Countrey  of 
Lome. 


152       HIGHLANDS— MUCARNE— KILLESPICK 

177  LOGHNAZELL  is  next  to  this  Glenfaighin,  in  Lochnazell.  this 
Countrie  is  verie  fertill  both  of  Corne  and  abundance  of  milk 
butter  and  cheese  and  in  the  Logh  they  gather  manie  Logh- 
leitches. 

Mucarne  is  ane  very  profitable  and  fertill  Countrie,  it  doth 
lye  southeast  from  Dunstafnes  There  is  one  church  in  that 
Countrie  which  is  called  Killespick  Kerrell.  And  there  is  one 
litle  river  in  that  toune  running  by  the  Church,  and  they  doe 
call  this  river  Neant.  It  is  verie  profitable  and  a  pleasant 
river  in  tyme  of  harvest  for  its  abundance  of  salmond  at  which 
tyme  the  tennents  and  superiours  of  the  Countrie,  when  the 
Laird  of  Calder  is  not  in  the  Countrie,  will  conveen  and 
gather  themselves  togidder  by  night  oftentimes,  and  slay 
abundance  and  innumerable  salmond  fishes.  And  in  the  day- 
time also  they  doe  slay  abundance  of  fish  in  all  pairts  of  the 
Water.  This  river  runneth  from  the  south  to  the  North 
and  doeth  flow  in  Loghediff  of  which  we  spoke  before. 
There  is  not  one  myle  betwixt  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  Aw 
and  this  litle  river,  in  this  Loghediff  there  is  sundrie  kynd 
of  fishes  slaine.  Mucarne  is  on  the  southsyde  of  this  Logh  and 
on  the  Northsyde  of  Logh  there  is  one  church  on  the 
Northsyd  of  this  Lochow  which  is  called  Kilchreanan,  one 
myle  from  the  ferrie  of  Lochow,  and  five  myles  betwixt  this 
Kilchreanan  and  Killespickerrell  a  Church  in  Mucarne  And 
one  myle  betwixt  this  Killespickerrell  and  the  mouth  of  Aw. 
It  is  alleadgit  that  this  river  is  in  rentall  for  ane  hundreth 
merk  lands  of  Lome  but  it  is  not  to  be  comparit  to  the  lands 
in  anie  wayes,  but  alwayes  it  is  verie  profitable  and  they  use 
to  slay  abundance  of  salmond  in  this  river  of  Aw.  The  Laird 
of  Innerraw  is  called  McDonachie  alias  Campbell,  and  hes 
certain  lands  on  the  eastsyd  of  this  river  and  on  the  southsyde 
of  Lochediff.  There  is  another  glen  next  to  Innerraw  called 
Glenkinglas  And  there  is  another  litle  river  running  throwgh 
this  glen  called  Kinglas. 

178.      There  is  another  glen  not  far  from  this  Glenkinglas  which 
is  called  .     It  is  ane  fertill  glen  of  come  and  verie 

profitable  and  abundance  of  milk  in  this  glen.  It  is  good  for 
guids  to  feed  intill  the  Glen  is  upon  the  Westsyde  of  Glenkin- 
lass  betwixt  it  and  the  river  of  Awe. 


HIGHLANDS— BEANDIRLOCH  153 

Att  the  head  of  this  Loghediff  there  is  a  glen  called  Glen- 
ediff  this  glen  is  verie  profitable.  There  is  abundance  of 
fish  and  milk.  The  river  is  ^EdifF,  so  the  glen  and  Logh  hath 
their  name  after  the  Water,  Glenediff  and  Loghediff. 

Beandirlogh  is  on  the  Northsyde  of  Loghaediff  forgainst 
Mucarne  being  on  the  southsyd  of  the  Logh.  This  Countrey 
is  divyded  betwixt  two  superiours  and  it  called  Beanae- 
dirdalloch  that  is  to  say  a  Mountaine  betwixt  two  Loghes. 
And  so  the  same  countrie  doth  lye  between  Loghediff  and 
Loghgreveren.  The  southsyde  of  the  said  countrey  pertaining 
to  the  Laird  of  Calder  and  the  Northsyd  pertaining  to  the 
Laird  of  Glenurquhie.  There  is  one  sanctuarie  and  one  bigg 
Church  on  the  southsyde  of  this  Beandirlogh  which  is  called 
Ardchattan,  friers,  moncks  and  Nunns  were  wont  to  dwell  in 
this  toune  and  Church  in  ancient  tyme,  But  the  parish 
Church  is  above  the  same  bigg  church  a  litle  on  the  syd  of  ane 
hill  in  a  pleasant  place,  where  the  sunn  uses  daylie  to  ryse 
upone,  When  it  ryseth  upone  one  pairt  of  the  Countrie,  and 
this  is  called  Kilbedan.  But  this  part  where  Ardchattan  is 
builded,  is  more  delectable  and  pleasant  place  then  where 
Kilbedan  is  builded,  for  there  is  faire  and  most  pleasant 
Greines  below  and  verie  neare  to  seasyde.  This  Countrie  is 
verie  profitable  and  fertill  both  of  come,  butter  and  cheese 
and  fish.  At  the  Westend  of  this  Countrey  of  Beandirlogh 
verie  near  the  seasyde  below  the  Mountaine  there  is  a  chappell 
called  Killchallumchill  in  Beandirlogh  one  myll  from  the  ferric  rw. 
off  Connell  in  Lome.  In  this  chappell  toune  there  is  ane  high 
hill  round  and  plaine  about,  and  it  is  verie  plaine  above  on 
the  tope  thereoff.  Ane  Springand  Water  is  on  the  one  pairt 
therof  And  it  is  likelie  to  have  been  one  strength  or  fort  in 
ancient  tymes  which  ancient  men  and  woemen  of  that 
Countrey  alledges  that  certane  gyants  or  strong  men  hes  bein 
the  builders  and  Inhabitants  theroff  and  there  is  one  kynd  of 
graystone  found  in  this  toune,  which  when  it  is  putt  in  the 
water,  it  will  not  goe  to  the  ground  as  other  stones  uses  to 
doe,  and  such  stones  as  those  are  not  to  be  had  in  anie  pairt 
in  these  countries  but  in  that  chappell  toune  called  in  English 
St.  Columbs  Chappell. 

This  northsyde  of  Beandirlogh   which   appertaines  to   the 


154  HIGHLANDS— BEANDIRLOCH 

Laird  of  Glenurquhie,  there  is  ane  castle  bulded  not  farr 
from  this  chappell  which  is  called  Castle  Barchaldein,  There  is 
thrie  myles  betwixt  the  Connall  forsaid,  and  the  ferric  of  the 
Sion  which  is  betwixt  Beandirloch  and  the  Appin.  This  North 
Beandirloch  is  verie  profitable  fertill  and  commodious  both  of 
come,  butter  cheese  milk  and  fishes.  It  doeth  lye  on  the 
southsyde  of  Loghgreveren,  and  the  Appin,  ane  verie  good 
countrie.  On  the  other  syde  theroff  being  the  Northsyde, 
there  is  ane  glen  at  the  head  of  this  Logh  which  they  doe  call 
Glengreveren,  and  this  Glenn  is  verie  fertill  and  profitable 
both  of  corne  milk  and  salmond  fish,  for  there  is  abundance  of 
salmond  fish  in  that  glen.  There  is  one  fresh  water  Logh  one 
myll  or  thereby  from  the  saltsea.  The  Superior  was  wont  to 
come  everie  yeare  to  this  Logh,  and  slay  abundance  of  salmond. 
In  this  Loghgreveren  there  is  one  high  Mountaine  on  the 
northsyde  therof.  And  on  the  mid  parte  of  the  Mountaine 
betwixt  the  sea  and  the  top  of  the  Mountaine  there  is  a 
chappell  called  Craikquerrelane  And  in  this  high  craig  where 
the  Chappell  stands,  there  is  verie  manie  fresh  springs  and 
180.  fountaine  waters.  And  sundrie  and  divers  multitudes  of 
men  and  woemen  from  all  Countries  doe  convein  and  gather 
togidder  to  this  Chappell  in  the  springtyme  one  day  before 
St.  Patrickmess  day  and  drinking  everie  one  of  them  of  this 
springand  fresh  water  alleadges  that  it  shall  recover  them  to 
their  healthes  againe,  of  the  sicknes  or  desease  which  they 
have  before  their  comeing  to  that  place  and  uses  the  same 
yearlie.  once  a  time  in  the  year  certaine  of  them  doth  come  for 
pilgrimadge,  and  certane  others  in  respect  of  their  sickness 
bygone,  of  which  they  have  recovered  their  health  and  certaine 
of  them  for  their  sickness  present,  And  so  they  are  perswaded 
to  be  restored  to  their  health  by  the  help  and  assistance  of 
that  holie  saint,  and  drinking  of  the  Waters.  This  holie 
place  lies  sundrie  spring  founts  and  wells  of  fresh  water  for 
divers  and  sundrie  kynds  of  deseases  and  sickness  whereof  they 
are  assured  to  be  true  in  respect  of  the  tryall  they  have  had 
in  this  water.  There  is  one  fountaine  springing  out  of  the 
sand  in  the  sea,  of  fresh  water,  not  ane  myll  distant  from  the 
sanctuarie  or  holie  Chappell  in  a  toune  called  Ardnacloch 
which  when  anie  in  these  pairts  are  sick,  if  the  sick  dieth,  a 


HIGHLANDS— APPIN— ION  A— LISMOR         1 55 

dead  worme  is  found  in  the  bottome  of  the  water  or  fountaine 
and  if  the  sick  shall  recover  a  quick  worme  is  found  in  it. 
This  Countrey  of  Appin  is  verie  fertill  And  the  Superiors 
thereof  are  Stewarts  of  their  surnames  descendit  of  the  Ancient 
Lords  of  Lome,  and  now  the  the  Campbells  succeeds  in 
superioritie,  dominion  and  regalitie  of  Lorne.  There  is 
abundance  of  milk  and  fysh  in  the  Appin  and  plentie  of  corne. 
There  is  a  big  hill  on  the  southwestsyde  of  this  Countrie  at 
the  seasyde  forgainst  the  ferrie  of  Lismore.  And  there  is 
one  craig  there  verie  bigg.  And  in  this  craig  there  is  a  hole 
alse  bigg  as  the  port  of  a  great  pallace,  they  doe  call  this  bigg 
rock  or  stone  Clochholl,  that  is  to  say,  ane  stone  hewed  out 
through.  There  is  a  verie  prettie  toure  or  Castell  in  that 
Countrie  of  Appin  not  farr  from  this  stone  builded  on  a  rock  181. 
or  craig  in  the  sea.  This  Castle  is  called  Illand  Stalker. 
There  are  Conals  betwixt  the  toure  and  the  sea  that  naither 
ship  nor  bark  can  come  in  anie  syde  of  that  tour.  There  are 
sundrie  litle  Illands  forgainst  this  Countrie  at  the  heid  of 
Lismore  on  the  Northend  thereof  where  men  and  women,  in 
pairte  of  harvest  and  summer  use  to  dwell  there,  with  certaine 
litle  numbers  of  guids  and  sheep  and  goats,  for  there  is  abun- 
dance of  fishes  to  be  slaine  about  these  Illands.  There  is 
another  Illand  not  ane  quarter  of  a  myll  from  the  Castle  per- 
taining to  the  Laird  of  Appin,  which  is  called  IONA.  This 
Illand  is  scarce  ane  myle  of  length  and  not  ane  half  myll  in 
breadth.  It  is  the  most  profitable  and  fertilest  in  all  these 
Countries,  for  it  is  but  sex  merks  lands  contenit,  And  it  is 
verie  fertill  of  Corne  and  abundance  of  butter  and  cheese  and 
milk  ;  and  fish  to  be  slaine  in  the  sea  next  to  this  Illand. 

LTSMOR  is  ane  Illand  containing  eight  mylls  in  length,  and 
scarce  one  myle  broad.  The  parish  church  of  Lismoir  is 
called  Kilmaluag  where  the  Bishops  were  wont  to  dwell.  This 
Illand  is  most  fertill  of  corne,  and  abundance  of  fish  slaine  in 
the  sea  next  to  that  Illand.  This  Lismor  or  Lismorensis 
is  a  place  where  Bishops  in  ancient  tyme  were  usit  to  dwell 
and  haunt  therintill,  because  they  were  styllit  and  nameit  from 
Lismor  being  the  principall  or  cheiffest  place  that  the  Bishops 
of  Argyll  hade  of  Antiquitie  being  equallie  betwixt  Cantyre 
and  Glenelg,  for  Cowall  Argyll  and  Lorne  and  Cantyre  were 


156  HIGHLANDS— LISMOR 

on  the  soutlisyde  of  Lismore,  Morverne,  Sunieord,  Ardna- 
murquhan,  Mudeort  with  the  Illands  of  Inshgall  on  the  west- 
syde  thereof,  Loquhabre  or  Loquhaber,  Arisaick,  Morrorib, 
Knoideor  and  Glenelg  on  the  north,  on  the  northend  theroff 
and  a  pairt  of  Loquhaber  on  the  eastsyde  of  the  head  theroff. 
And  so  the  Bishopes  of  Argyll  are  now  styllit  of.Lismor  and 
lykwayes  were  so  in  ancient  tymes.  There  was  of  Ancient 
certaine  Bishops  of  Lismor  of  the  race  and  name  of  Clanvick- 
18:!.  gilliemichaell  and  eftir  these  Bishopes  there  was  other  Bishops 
admitted  and  there  was  ane  of  these  last  Bishopes  that  wold 
depose  and  deprive  certaine  of  the  name  of  Clanvickgillie- 
michael,  which  were  friends  to  the  Bishope  of  that  name,  so 
called  who  had  certaine  Offices  from  their  friend  and  Cosigne  : 
and  were  in  possessione  theroff  long  tyme  efter  his  death,  being 
acceptit  of  sundrie  bishopes  that  succeidit  their  Cosignes  place 
and  speciallie  they  having  some  right  or  title  therto,  and 
being  better  acquainted  in  that  trade  then  others  that  were 
in  the  Countrie  At  last  it  fortuned  that  one  Bishope  wes 
admitted  Bishop  of  Lismor  He  envying  by  hatred  these 
ancient  men  or  race  of  that  Clane ;  or  others  being  willing  to 
succeid  in  that  Office,  And  to  obtaine  the  Bishopes  favour 
that  they  might  obtaine  that  Office  from  him  arid  depose 
these  ancient  men  which  were  in  possession  theroff  for  a  long 
space ;  out  of  their  Office.  These  race  and  Clan  of  Clanwick- 
gilliemichael  perceiving  themselves  to  be  so  dealt  with  be  the 
Bishopes  evill  will  towards  them,  they  took  ane  displeasure 
against  him,  and  being  strong  in  the  countrey,  was  of  Inten- 
tioun  and  mind  to  revenge  the  same  with  the  Bishope  And 
finallie  determined  how  to  frequent  the  Bishope  in  giveing  ane 
equall  satisfactioune  according  to  his  deserving  Which  they 
wold  redound  to  the  Bishopes  uttermost  destruction  and 
ruine.  Thaire  pretendit  determinatione  being  finished,  on  a 
day  they  did  meet  with  the  Bishope  who  looked  not  for  such 
salutatione  as  he  receaved  at  their  hands — and  they  did  kill  him 
And  so  he  did  finish  his  lyff  out  of  this  world  And  since  that 
tyme  as  yet  there  was  never  a  Bishope  that  did  come  to  Lis- 
more to  dwell.  There  are  sundrie  Little  Illands  on  the  south- 
eastsyde  of  Lismore  where  wyld  birds  or  fowls  doe  breed. 
These  Illands  are  verie  high  and  stonie  craiggie  and  rough, 


HIGHLANDS— DURGOURE— GLENCONE      1 57 

and  certane  other  Illands  on  the  Northwestend  theroff  and 
certaine  on  the  Westsyde,  and  there  is  abundance  of  fish 
slaine  about  these  litle  Illands. 

DUUGOURE  is  the  next  Countrie  to  the  Appin  And  there  is 
a  Chappell  in  that  Countrie  called  Kilchallumchill  And  there 
is  ane  I  Hand  in  the  sea  forgainst  that  Countrie  called  Illand  1S3. 
Ballanagoune.  It  is  rough  and  full  of  wood.  It  hes  ane 
verie  good  haven  for  ships  on  the  southeast  of  it,  and  one 
good  other  on,  on  the  West  and  of  it.  The  Countrie  of  Dur- 
goure  extends  to  thrittie  merk  lands,  there  is  two  litle  rivers 
in  it.  The  one  called  Awinch ultra  and  the  other  Awindur- 
goure  that  is  the  river  of  Durgoure,  that  water  cometh  south- 
east and  floweth  west.  There  is  abundance  of  salmond  fish 
tane  in  that  litle  river  both  summer,  harvest  and  a  pairt 
of  the  winter  seasone.  This  Countrie  is  verie  fertill  and  pro- 
fitable and  plenteous  of  corne,  butter  and  cheese  and  milk, 
and  abundance  of  seafishes.  And  there  is  one  glen  in  this 
countrie  wherethrow  the  water  of  Cultin  runns.  And  this 
glen  hes  bot  thrie  tounes  in  it,  one  on  the  southsyd  theroft', 
another  at  the  head  of  the  Glen,  and  the  thrid  on  ane  high 
hill  or  litle  mountaine  that  is  between  it  and  the  rest  of  the 
countrie.  This  litle  Glenn  is  verie  fertill  and  plenteous  of 
corne  and  milk.  And  it  is  on  the  southsyde  of  the  Countrie 
betwixt  Doungoure  and  the  Appin  in  Lome. 

GLENCONE  is  the  next  Countrie  to  Durgoure  eastward  from 
Dungoure.  this  Glencone  is  a  twenty  merk  land,  which  per- 
tain eth  to  certane  of  the  Clandonald.  This  countrie  is  verie 
profitable  fertill  and  plenteous  of  corne,  milk  butter  cheese 
and  abundance  of  fish  both  salmond  and  herrings  and  other 
kynd  of  fishes  therein.  There  is  one  river  in  Glencone  which 
is  called  the  water  of  Glencone.  This  river  doeth  run  out  of 
a  litle  Logh  which  is  called  Loghrighittane  from  the  East, 
and  goeth  into  the  sea  Northwest.  And  they  use  to  take 
abundance  of  salmond  in  this  litle  river,  the  Sea  Logh  wherin 
it  doeth  runne  is  called  Lochlevin.  This  Loghlevin  goeth  up 
sevin  mylls  from  the  ferrie  of  Bellicheillis  or  therby  And 
this  Loghlevin  lyeth  betwixt  Loquaber  and  Glencone  and 
doeth  goe  up  eastward  at  the  heid  theroff.  This  is  a  river 
called  Levin  and  from  that  name  the  Logh  is  called  Lochlevin, 


158       HIGHLANDS— LOCHLEVIN— BEANEVES 

and  the  Northsyde  theroff  being  a  pairt  of  Lochaber  is  named 
eftir  the  name  of  the  Logh,  and  Glencone  is  on  the  southsyde 
thereoff.      There   is   ane  Church  in   ane  Illand  called  Hand 
184.  Moune   betwixt   that   pairt  of  Lochquhaber,  and  Glencone. 
And  this  paroch  Church  hath  three  score  and  ten  merklands, 
Glencone,  Loghlevin,  Mamoir  and  Glenneves.      This  Loch- 
levin  is  verie  profitable  fertill  and  plenteous  both   of  corne 
butter,  cheese,  milk  and  abundance  of  fish.     There  is  ane  high 
bigg  mountaine  betwixt  Mamoir  and  Loghlevin,  is  next  to 
Mamoir  Glenneves.     And  there  is  a  litle  river  in  that  litle 
countrey  which  is  called  Neves.     And  the  countrie  is  called 
Glenneves.     And  it  is  a  profitable  litle  Countrey  both  of  corne 
milk  and  abundance  of  salmond  fish  in  that  water  of  Neves 
There  is  one  high  or  bigg  mountaine  on  the  Northeastsyde  oi 
that  Countrie  which  is  called  Beaneves     And  this  mountain* 
is  the  biggest  and  highest  mountain  in  all  that  Countrey  and 
it  is  said  that  this  Mountaine  is  the  biggest  and  highest  in  a] 
Britaine.     This  water  of  Neves  the  ancient  men  and  woemen 
did  hear  it  of  divers  others,  Ancient  men  in  tymes  by  gone 
that  war  in  Loquaber  reported  that  Neves  is  deryvin  from 
Naves  because  certane  shipps  wer  wont  to  come  with  certam 
Kings,  that  used  to  haunt  and  dwell  in  Inverlochie,  did  lye  at 
the  mouth  of  the  water  of  Neves.     And  so  the  water  is  called 
Neves  and  the  Countrie  Glenneves  and  the  Mountain  Bean- 
neves  efter  the  name  of  the  water  so  called.     This  Glenneves 
is  but  ten  merkland  of  old  rentall  and  it  is  divydit  betwixt 
severall  parish  Churches.     The  southsyde  of  this  litle  countrie 
appertaines  to  Illand   Moune  and  the   Northeastsyde  therof 
to  the  parish  Church  of  Kilmanevag  *  Innerloghie  now  called 

*  the  river  of  Speachan  comes  from  the  bra  of  Lochabyr  and  runs  by 
Kilmanevag  and  enters  Lochlip  betwixt  it  and  the  end  is  Galla  garr 
Lochy.  Lochlochy  itself  is  7  or  8  mile  in  lenth,,  where  breadest  a  mile. 
Between  Lochlochy  there  is  two  litle  mile  to  LochOcht,  upon  the  North- 
syd  therof  where  Garry  runs  in,  stands  Iiivergury.  LochOchlig  is  3 
mile  long  half  a  mile  where  broadest,  from  this  Loch  runs  the  river  of 
Oich  into  Lochness,  the  distance  between  the  two  Loughs  is  4  or  five 
mile.  Lochness  is  24  mile  long.  One  smal  Hand  at  the  West  end 
belongs  to  Fraser  of  Colduthel.  from  Louchiell  to  Innerhelt  is  six  mile, 
from  Innerlingley  to  Innernesse  a  straight  line  50  miles  the  Map  makes 
it  crooked  but  its  streight.  [Copied  by  Macfarlane's  transcriber  from 
the  margin  of  the  MS.  he  was  following,  on  which  Sir  Robert  Sibbald 
had  written  it  in  his  own  hand. — En.] 


HIGHLANDS— INNERLOGHIE— LOGHYELD      159 

Gordoune  is  but  ane  mile  from  the  mouth  of  Neves.  This 
Innerloghie  is  ane  ancient  toune,  and  a  palace  builded  be 
ancient  King  which  was  King  Ewin  the  of  that  name, 

which  is  written  in  the  Scots  Chronicles,  and  sundrie  Kings 
were  wont  to  dwell  therein.  Innerlochie  is  sex  miles  from  the  185. 
parosh  Church  of  Kilmanevag,  and  not  one  mile  from  that 
Church  and  the  heid  of  the  Logh,  where  the  river  doeth  runn 
out  of  the  fresh  water  Logh,  called  Loghloghie,  And  it  is 
twall  mylls  of  length  and  one  mile  of  breadth.  The  *one 
head  of  it  goeth  north  or  Northeast  and  the  other  Southwest. 
This  river  of  Lochie  doth  flow  into  the  sea  called  Loghzeld. 
There  is  abundance  of  salmond  fish,  herrings  and  all  other  sort 
of  fish  to  be  slaine  there.  It  is  but  a  mile  betwixt  the  parish 
of  Kilmalie  on  the  Northsyde  of  Loghyeld,  and  Innerlochie. 
Att  the  head  of  Lochzeld  there  is  ane  litle  river  called  the 
water  of  Keanloghyeld,  and  the  men  of  the  countrey  uses  to 
slay  salmond  fish  in  that  water  certaine  tymes  of  the  year. 
And  there  is  one  glen  which  goeth  up  northward,  And  there 
is  verie  manie  firr  trees  in  that  glen  but  verie  great  difficultie 
to  be  transported  anie  of  the  saids  wayes  to  the  sea.  There 
is  great  number  of  Oaktrees,  and  one  bigg  wood  of  Oak  on  the 
Northsyde  of  Loghyeld  at  the  head  of  the  said  Logh  which  is 
verie  pleasant  and  profitable.  And  they  wont  to  build  shipps 
of  the  said  Oakin  wood  And  the  same  wood  pertaines  to  the 
Laird  of  Loghyeld  being  the  Chieff  and  Principall  house  of 
the  Clan  cameron.  f  Also  there  are  manie  litle  glenns  in  this  186. 
Loghyeld  verie  profitable  for  guids,  sheep  and  goats.  In 
this  Logh  there  is  litle  Illands  and  the  Laird  and  the 
Superiours  of  the  countrey  doeth  dwell  in  one  of  them 
haveing  but  timber  houses  builded  thereintill.  There  is 
a  castle l  two  mylls  from  this  Illand  or  Church  of  Killmalie 

*  there  is  two  rivers  runn  into  Loughyell  Doitellie  on  the  south  and 
Finella  upon  the  North. 

t  It  is  said  of  the  family  of  Cameron,  there  came  the  families  of 
Chamers  and  Kincaids  and  Banerman  Mackeanduy.  Kincaid  is  in  Ii'ish 
the  head  of  ane  hundred. 

Some  Judge  the  name  Cameron  came  from  a  towne  that  in  the 
Irish  it  signifieth  a  Crooked  Nose. 

[These  notes  were  also  copied  by  Macfarlane's  transcriber  from  Sir 
Robert  Sibbald's  holograph  marginalia. — ED.] 

1  The  word  three  is  given  on  the  margin  of  the  Macfarlane  MS. — ED. 


160  HIGHLANDS— LOCH  YELD 

called  Toircastle.  There  was  ane  ancient  castle  builded 
whaire  this  Toircastle  is,  which  was  called  Beragonium  And 
this  Torcastle  was  builded  last  by  one  which  is  called  Ewin 
McAllane  the  Cheiff  of  that  Clancameron,  This  Name  Cameron 
it  is  said,  hath  bein  driven  from  Gamer  ut  a  Gamer  Cameroni. 
They  alledge  themselves  to  be  descendit  of  ane  ancient  King 
of  Denmark  and  the  first  Co un trie  in  Scotland  that  they  did 
come  into,  wes  Glenderune  And  then  at  that  tyme  they  were 
called  Sleick  *  Ouchgri  Vic  Millananay  Vic  Arden.  Search  the 
Scots  Chronicle  and  you  shall  find  more  at  lenth  therintill. 

Glenluy  is  next  to  that  Lochyeld  and  it  is  a  verie  fertill 
litle  countrey,  haveing  a  litle  river  running  through  it  flowing 
into  the  water  of  Loghie,  And  it  is  called  Ley,  and  the  glei 
is   named   efter    the    water   Glenley,    And   next  to    Glenley, 
Loghairdgaig   being  of  twall   myll   of  length,  and   not  OIK 
myle  of  breadth.     On  the  Southsyde  of  this  Logh  there  is 
wood  of  fyne  trees  fourteen  myles  in  length  And  on  the  North- 
side  therof,  faire  oaktrees  growing  And  is  ane  verie  profitable 
Gountrie  of  milk,  abundance  in  summer  and  harvest  but  nol 
much  come  growing  there,  for  it  is  better  for  guids  to  feed  ii 
these  parts  then  for  corne.     The  river  or  water  which  doetl 
run  out  of  that  fresh  water  Logh  is  called  Airgak  And  th( 
Logh  and  the  Gountrey  is  named  efter  the  river  Lochairgak. 
And  this  Airgak  doeth  flow  in  Loghloghlie.f  At  the  North-east 
187.  head  of  this  Loghairgak  there  are  two  glens.     The  one  is  call* 
Glenpean,  and  the  other  Glendessorie.     This  Glenpean  ther 
is  one  litle  river  running  below  by  that  glenn,  and  they  use 
to  slay  salmond  fish  in  that  water.     There  is  a  bigg  moun- 
taine  betwixt  these  two  glenns.     And  they  are  verie  profitable 
for  abundance  of  milk  in  these  glenns  for  they  are  better  foi 
goods  to  feed  in  than  for  corne.     There  is  one  litle  Chappell 
in  that  Logh  in   the  south-easthead  theroff'  which   is  called 


*  There  is  yett  a  race  of  the  Cameron  called  Sleith  Outlay. 

t  Loughargaig  is  a  mile  bread  where  breadest  and  in  length  twelfe 
miles,  it  and  the  Countrey  on  both  sides  belongs  to  Lochyell,  where  is 
saw  mill  upon  the  river  of  Argaig,  where  it  comes  out  of  the  Loch  am 
187.  he  is  making  ane  Iron  Mill,  there  is  much  Iron  Ore  over  all  the  high- 
land, with  which  they  furnished  themself  formerly,  there  be  great 
woods  on  each  side  of  Lochargaig  the  woods  of  Oake. 


HIGHLANDS— LOQUHABER  161 

Illand  Collumbkill  that  is  the  Illand  of  St.  Columb.     There 
is  ten  mylls  betwixt  this  Illand  and  the  church  of  Kirkmalie 
on  Lochyell.      On  the  south  syde  of  Loghie  doeth  lye  the 
parish  church  of  Kilminevag.     And  there  is   one  river  run- 
ning  by   this   church   which   is  called    Spean,   by  the  toune 
called   Cappach  which  was  the  Principall  dwelling  toune  of 
Mr  Rannald  in  Loquhaber.      And  these  two  Glenns  called 
Glenspean  and  Glenroy  are  verie  pleasant  profitable  and  fertill 
of  corne  and  abundance  of  salmond  slaine  in  these  two  waters. 
And  plenteous  of  milk  in  summer  and  harvest  in  these  two 
glenns.     There  was  of  ancient  one  Lord  in  Loquhaber  called 
My  Lord  Gumming  being  a  cruell  and  Tyrant  Superior  to  the 
Inhabitants    and     ancient    tennants    of    that    Countrey    of 
Loquahber.     This  Lord  builded  ane  Illand  or  ane  house  on 
the  southeasthead  of  Loghloghlie  with  four  bigg  oak  Jests 
that  were  below  in  the  water  And  he  builded  ane  house  there- 
upone  and  ane  devyce  at  the  entrance  of  the  said  house  That 
whaire  anie  did  goe  into  the  house  ane  table  did  lye  by  the 
way,  that  when  anie  man  did  stand  upon  the  end  theroff  going 
fordward  that  end  wold  doune  and  the  other  goe  up  and  then 
the  man  woman  or  dog  wold  fall  below  in  the  water  and  188. 
perish.     This  house  being  finished,  the  Lord  Cuming  did  call 
the  wholl  tennants  and  Inhabitants  of  the  Countrey  to  come  to 
him  to  that  house,  And  everie  one  that  did  come  into  that 
place  did  perish  and  droune  in  the  water  And  it  fortuned  at 
the  last  that  a  gentleman  one  of  the  tenants,  who  had  a  hound 
or  dog  in  his  companie,  did  enter  the  house  and  fall  below 
into  the  water  through  the  house,  and  the  dog  did  fall  efter 
his  master  this  dog  being  white,  and  comeing  above  the  water 
in  another  place  by  the  providence  of  God,  without  the  house, 
The  remant  tennants  which   were  as  yet  on  going  into  the 
house,  perceiving  this  to  be  rather  for  their  destructione  and 
confusione  of  these  which  were  absent  from  them  then  for  their 
better  furtherance,  did  remove  themselves  and  flitt  out  of  that 
pairt  wherin  they  were  for  the  tyme  to  preserve  themselves 
with  their  lives  out  of  that  cruell  Mans  hands     But  my  Lord 
comeing  to  be  advertised  heirof  perceiving  the  Countrie  and 
tenants  to  be  some  what  strong  as  yet,  did  goe  away  by  night 
and  his  wholl  Companie  out  of  the  Countrie,  And  never  since 


162  HIGHLANDS— KILMALIE 

came  to  Loquhaber     And  when  summer  is,  certaine  yeares  or 
dayes,  one  of  the  bigg  timber  Jests  the  quantitie  of  ane  ell 
theroff,  will  be  seen  above  the  water  and  sundrie  men  of  the 
Countrie   were    wont    to   goe   and   see   that   Jest   of  timber 
qch  stands  there  yet,  And  they  say  that  a  man's  finger  will 
cast  it  to  and  fro  in  the  water,  but  fourtie  men  cannot  pull  it 
up  because  it  lyeth  in  another   Jest  below  the  water,     and 
this  which  you  heard,  is  hot  one  myle  from   Kilmanevag  or 
therby.     And  sex  mylls  betwixt  this  church  and  Inverloghie, 
where  my  Lord  Cuming  did  dwell.     There  is  bot  two  myles 
from   Inverloghie    the    Church  of  Kilmalie  in   Loghyeld      In 
antient  tymes  there  was  ane  church   builded   upon  ane  hill, 
which  was  above  this  church,  which  doeth  now  stand  in  this 
toune.  and  ancient  men  doeth   say  that  there  was  a  battell 
foughteon  on  ane  litle  hill  not  the  tenth  part  of  a  myle  from 
this  Church  be  certaine  men  which  they  did  not  know  what 
they  were.     And  long  tyme  therefter  certaine  herds  of  that 
toune  and  of  the  next  toune  called  Annaff  both  wenches  and 
youthes  did  on  a  tyme  conveen  with  others  on  that  hill.     And 
189*  the  day  being  somewhat  cold,  did  gather  the  bones  of  the 
•     dead   men  that  were  slayne  long  tyme  before  in  that  place, 
and  did  make  a  fire  to  warm  them,  at  last  they  did  all  remove 
from  the  fire,  except  one  maid  or  wench  which  was  verie  cold, 
and  she  did  remaine  there  for  ane  space.     She  being  quyetlie 
her  alone  without  anie  other  companie  took  up  her  cloaths 
above  her  knees  or  therby  to  warme  her  awhile,  did  come  and 
caste   the   ashes  below  her  cloaths,  and   some   of  the  same 
entering  into  her  privie  member  she   was  conceived  of  ane 
Manchild.     Severall  tymes  therefter  she  was  verie  sick  and  at 
last  she  was  knowne  to  be  with  chyld.     And  then  her  parents 
did  ask  at  her  the  matter  heiroff,  which  the  Wench  could  not 
weel  answer  which  way  to  satisfie  them.     At  last  she  resolved 
them  with  ane  Answer.     As  fortune  fell  upon  her  concerneing 
this  marvellous  miracle,  the  chyld  being  borne,  his  name  was 
called   Gille  dow  Maghre-vollich  That   is  to  say  the  black 
child,  son  to  the  bones  so  called     His  grandfather  and  friends 
send  him  to  the  schooll,  and  so  he  was  a  good  schollar  and 
godlie,  he  did  build  this  Church  which  doeth  now  stand  in 
Lochvcld  called  Kilmalie      am  Ewin  McAllane  the  chieff  of 


HIGHLANDS— KILMALTE— ARDGOURE        163 

the  Clancamerons  which  did  build  Torchastle  did  build  the 
Northeast  pairt  of  this  Church,  and  this  forsaid  the  West 
pairt.  In  anno  ane  thousand  sex  hundreth  and  twall  years  It 
fortuned  that  the  Clancameron  being  unfreinds  with  others  of 
themselves,  in  respect  that  certaine  of  them  took  lands  from 
the  Marques  of  Huntlie  which  Allane  Cameron  of  Lochyeld 
had  in  his  possession,  the  Cheiff  and  Captaine  of  the  Clan- 
camerons and  certane  others  of  his  kin  and  freinds  followed 
and  accompanied  the  said  Allane.  They  did  forgadder  with 
others  at  Innerloghie  the  forsaid  zeare  the  fyfteenth  day  of 
August  in  ane  certaine  Mossie  place  And  verie  hard  to  anie  to 
goe  throw  in  respect  of  such  soft  moss  which  is  between 
Gleneves  and  Innerloghie.  And  there  they  fought  so  cruellie 
as  if  they  had  bein  native  Ancient  enemies  whill  at  last  the  190. 
said  Allane  and  the  rest  of  his  friends  and  complices  did  over- 
throw and  slay  the  principall  and  Chieff  men  of  their  contra- 
versies.  And  so  Allane  did  overcome  the  battell  fought 
against  his  friends  on  that  day,  which  was  a  great  ruine  to  his 
familie. 

Ardgoure  next  to  Lochaquber  on  the  eist  syd  of  Loquhaber 
In  this  litle  countrie  of  ancient  there  were  certaine  Inhabitants 
(and  which  as  old  men  report  was  siel  eich  and  then  were 
Inhabitants  of  certaine  parts  of  Lochaber  called  Lochferin 
and  Mamor  forgainst  Ardgour)  And  they  did  build  ane  house 
of  timber  in  one  litle  Illand  which  was  amongst  Mosses  next 
to  the  principall  toune,  which  they  hade  in  Ardgoure,  And  the 
saids  Inhabitants  having  this  Illand  for  ane  strengh  house  to 
keep  himself  and  the  principall  men  of  his  kin  and  friends 
from  their  enemies.  They  being  dwelling  there  for  ane  space, 
It  fortuned  on  a  tyme  that  ane  monstrous  beast  being  in  that 
litle  Logh,  the  most  pairt  of  these  Inhabitants  being  in  this 
Illand  It  was  overwhelmit  and  destroyed  by  that  terrible  and 
most  fearfull  Monstrous  beast  and  so  they  all  were  perished 
and  devoured. 

The  next  Inhabitants  which  did  occupie  and  manure  this 
litle  countrie  of  Ardgoure,  It  was  ane  certaine  race  and  Clan 
called  Clanmaister  alias  Mackenis,  And  these  did  dwell  ane 
certain  space  in  this  litle  Countrie.  Makconill  Lord  of  the 
Illands  of  the  hielands  of  Scotland,  and  other  certane  lands  in 


164  HIGHLANDS— ARDGOURE 

Scotland  being  superior  and  Master  to  the  tenants  and  prin- 
cipal 1  Inhabitants  of  Ardgoure.     And  this  Makmaister  being 
the  speciall  man  of  that  name,  did  certain  occasiones  which 
disconted  this  Lord  Makconell  and  McClaine  haveing  certane 
sones  being  valiant  stout  Young  men,  and  had  no  lands  that 
he  could  bestow  on  them  but  that  he  should  give  some  lands 
to  his  eldest  sone,  did  prefer  them  to  Mackconiell  to  provyd 
for  them,  lands  to  serve  his  Lordship,  as  loyall  servants  at  all 
tymes.      And  Mackconiell  remembring  his  old  anger  which 
19 1.  Makmaister  deserved  at  his  in  tymes  bygone  and  called  all 
things  to  remembrance,  did  ask  McCleans  sons  and  speciallie 
the  youngest  to  whom  he  had  no  lands  to  bestow  upone.    That 
if  the  case  were  that  himself  could  find  anie  lands  to  be  deso- 
late of  tenants,  which  he  might  easilie  conqueis.     Mclenis  sone 
to  spy  and  look  in  all  pairts  and  countries  where  he  might  find 
anie  such   lands,  and  that   he  should   have  his  consent  and 
power  and  frie.  libertie  to  intromett  with  the  same,    The  race 
and  name  of  Clanlein  perceiving  no  other  lands  to  be  more  fitt 
for  them  to   be  easilie  conqueissed  then  this   Ardgoure  by 
sundrie  consideratione  first  that  the  superior  or  Laird  of  Ard- 
goure called  McMaister  being  ane  old  man  and  noght  in  good 
friendship  with  his  next  neighbours  next  haveing  but  few  in 
number  of  friends  and  kin  to  defend  helpe  or  assist  him  in 
anie  place  besyde  his  Countrie.     thridlie  Ardgoure  being  the 
next  countrie  to  McLeins  kin  and  friends  And  last  of  all  or 
finallie  they  remembring  the  displeasure  which  McConeill  did 
beare  against  him,  and  the  evill  will  he  had  against  McMaister 
in  tymes  bygone,  All  things  being  considerit  be  the  said  Clan- 
lein concerneing  their  purpose  determined  and  pretendit  by 
them.     Certaine  of  them   did   gather  togidder  and  come  to 
Ardgoure  with   this    McLeans    youngest    sone,   and    finding 
McMaster  being  but  few  in  number  of  companie  with  him  of 
his  kin  for  that  tyme,  they  did  enter  into  his  house  in  the 
Coule  in  Ardgoure  his  principall  dwelling  place  there,  and 
did    kill   himself  and    the   remanent  of  his  friends  and  kin 
and  sones,  and  entered   themselvs   possessors  of  those   lands 
immediatlie  efter  the  said  slaughter  and  did  sett  the  countrey 
peaceable  into  tenants.     And  so  this  McLeans  sones  posteritie 
doeth  bruik  this  countrie  of  Ardgoure  as  yet  since  that  tyme. 


HIGHLANDS— ARDGOURE— KENGE  ARLOCH       1 65 

This  Illand  which  was  devoured  and  perished  with  all  men, 
woemen,  bairnes  and  all  others  that  was  within  it     It  is  now 
one  litle  Logh  being  but  ane  stunk  before  when  the  Illand  was 
in  the  midst  of  it   And  ane  Tutor  of  Ardgoure  named  Charles 
Mclean  thinking  to  find  certaine  riches  within  this  Logh  did 
transport  ane  boatt  or  scowtt  from  the  sea  to  this  place,  but  192. 
could  find  nothing  at  the  ground  or  bottom  of  the  Logh  but 
ane  Jest  or  oakin  timber,  which  they  did  pull  up  with  Instru- 
ments hanging  to  roapes.     This  Countrie  of  Ardgoure  doth 
lye  on   the  Westsyde  of  the  sea  that  goeth  by,     There  is 
sundrie  Glenns  in  this  Countrie.    one  of  them  is  called  the  Cow- 
glen  *  and  there  is  a  great  number  of  firr  trees  in  this  glen. 
And  it  is  verie  profitable  to  the  Superior  and  Master  of  the 
Countrie  for  it  is  good  to  feed  guids  therein  being  of  twall 
mylls  of  lenght  or  therby.    and  there  is  a  water  in  the  glen 
which  doeth   transport  great  trees  of  firr  and  masts  to  the 
seasyde.     There  is  another  Glen  on  the  southsyde  of  this  Glen 
which  is  called  Glenkaffitill.    having  an  bigg,  high  mountaine 
betwixt  the  two  glenns.    there  is  aboundance  of  salmond  fish 
slain  in  the  water  of  skaffitill.     There  is  a  great  number  of  fir 
trees  in  this  glen,  and  easlie  to  be  transported  to  the  seasyde. 
There  uses  manie  shipps  to  come  to  that  Countrie  of  Ard- 
goure, and   to  be  loadned  with  firr  Jests  Masts  and  Cutts. 
This  Glen  is  verie  profitable  to  the  Lord.    The  whole  Barronie 
of  Ardgoure  is  twentie  fyve  merkland.    there  is  another  glen 
which  is  called  Glengoure  and  there  is  one  freshwater  Logh  in 
this  Glenn,    and  abundance  of  salmond  is  slaine  yearlie  therin. 
also  there  is  ane  litle  river  which  doeth  run  out  of  this  Logh 
And  there  is  abundance   of  salmond   slaine   in  that  water. 
There  is  abundance  of  herrings  and  severall  other  fishes  slaine 
in  this  Countrie.    It  is  not  verie  fertill  of  corne  but  it  is  rough 
sene  of  it  [we],  and  verie  profitable  for  cattell  sheep  and  goatts 
to  feed  into  it. 

Kengearloch  next  to  Ardgoure.  This  Countrie  is  verie 
rough  and  hills  and  mountaines  on  the  Westsyde  theroff,  and 
the  sea  on  the  south  or  southeast  theroff'.  There  is  abundance 
of  fish  in  Kingearlogh  and  milk.  It  is  not  verie  fertill  of 


i.e.  Dog's  glen.     [In  MS.] 


166          HIGHLANDS— DUARD— MORVERNE 

come  but  it  is  good  for  guids  cattell  sheep  and  goats  to  feed 
intill.     There  is  one  castle  in  this  countrey  which  is  called 

193.  Castle  N'agair.     The  Inhabitants  of  this  Countrey  are  called 
Sielleachin,  that  is  to  say  the  race  or  name  of  that  Clan.    And 
they  are  descendit  of  McLein  Lochboy.     These  names  of  the 
Clanlein  are  divydit  in  two  severall  names  for  this  Mclein  of 
Loghboy  is  called  Seilleachin.     And  the  Clanlein  of  Duard  is 
called  Seill  Laughlane.     This  Gillem  from  whence  they  are 
descendit,  had  two  sones,  the  one  which   was  the  eldest,  his 
name   was   Hector  or   in  Irish  Eachin,  the  other  which  was 
youngest  his  name  was  Laughlane,  and  these  Clanlein  of  Duard 
hath  the  greatest  dignitie  and  first  place  by  the  providence  of 
God   the  ascending  of  such    high    estimatione   and  honour. 
These  Clanlein  they  were  of  antient,  servants  and  dependei  s 
upon  McConeill  being  Lord  of  the  Illands  of  the  hielands  of 
Scotland,  and  did  place  them  in  great  estimatione  and  sundrie 
others  which  was  the  occasione  of  the  destructione  of  his  owne 
house  efterward.     And  placed  all  others  and  these  in  divers 
countries  and  makeing  them  men  of  great  living  in  augment- 
ing and  preferring  them  to  great  honoure  and  diminished  his 
owne  house. 

Morverne  next  to  Keangerlogh.  This  Countrie  is  a  verie 
profitable  and  fertill  Countrey  of  Corne  and  abundance  of  fish 
butter,  cheese,  and  milk  There  is  one  Castle  in  this  Countrey 
pertaining  to  the  Siell  Laughlane  alias  Clanlein  of  Duard.  and 
the  principall  of  that  name  which  doeth  dwell  in  the  Morverne 
is  called  Allane  Mceandowie  Vic  gillein. 

Suineord  is  a  Countrey  forgainst  the  Morverne  and  it  is  ane 
verie  fertill  and  profitable  Countrie.  and  there  is  abundance 
offish  both  salmond  and  all  other  kynd  of  fishes.  Suineord 
was  holdin  be  the  Clanean  of  my  Lo.  McDonald  Lord  of  Can- 
tyre  and  Ilia.  And  this  Countrie  is  verie  plenteous  of  milk 
for  there  is  verie  good  grass  and  pasture  in  all  Suineord  having 
Glenns  and  bigg  Mountains  on  the  Northeastsyde  therof.  And 
on  the  other  syde  ane  Logh  of  the  sea  comeing  betwixt  the 
Morverne  and  Suineord.  There  is  thrittie  merk lands  in  this 
Countrey  and  the  paroch  Church  thereoff'  is  Illandfynan  and 

194.  this  Illand  wherein  the  Church  doeth  stand  is  ane  fresh  water 
Logh   called  Logh  seell,  and  Muydard  is  on  the  Northwest 


SUINEORD— ARDNAMURQUHEN— MUYDORT     167 

syde  of  this  Logh,  and  Someord  [sic]  on  the  southsyde.  And 
Loquahaber  and  Ardgoure  at  the  easthead  thereoff,  And  there 
is  one  river  running  out  of  this  Logh  westward  to  the  Sea, 
And  there  is  abundance  of  salmond  fish  slaine  in  this  river 
yearlie  when  there  is  no  great  speats  nor  raine  in  the  yeare  but 
fair  weather,  there  is  sundrie  good  glenns  on  the  Northwest 
syde  of  this  Logh,  ane  of  them  at  the  head  theroff'  called  Glen- 
feanain.  And  there  is  ane  litle  river  runneing  through  this 
glen  And  there  is  abundance  of  salmond  slaine  in  that  water 
at  certaine  tymes  of  the  yeare.  And  this  glen  is  verie  profit- 
able and  abundance  of  milk  in  it.  And  there  is  another  glen 
forgainst  Suineord  in  Muydort  called  Glencalmidill.  And 
there  is  ane  litle  river  running  through  this  glen.  And  there 
is  abundance  of  salmond  fish  slaine  thereintill.  And  this  glen 
is  verie  profitable  and  plenteous  of  milk.  As  for  comes  these 
glenns  hes  but  few  of  come  lands 

Ardnamurquhen  in  Argil  is  next  to  Suineord  on  the  west- 
syde  or  end  theroff.  Somewhat  southwest  Ardnamurquhen 
was  held  by  the  Clanean  of  my  Lo.  McDonald  Lord  of  Ilia  and 
Cantyre  This  countrie  is  verie  profitable  and  fertill  countrie 
both  of  corne,  abundance  of  fish,  and  plenteous  of  milk  being 
a  fourscoire  merkland.  There  is  a  castle  and  strength  in  it 
called  Castell  Miggarie.  The  Clanean  Murquhenich  were  the 
Inhabitants  there  of  ancient,  And  the  Campbells  hath  dis- 
possess*^ and  putt  them  out  of  ther  Castell  and  other  places 
of  the  Countrie  except  few.  and  hes  planted  sundrie  others  in 
ther  tounes  and  countries.  The  Clanean  Murquhenich  were 
verie  ancient  possessors  and  superiors  of  Ardnamurquhen. 
There  is  one  Church  in  this  Countrie  which  is  called  Kilmoire 
in  Ardnamurquhen. 

Muideort  next  to  Ardnamurquhen  on  the  Northwest  syde 
theroff.  This  Muideort  is  plenteous  of  milk  and  fishes  Deir 
and  roe  but  not  fertill  of  corne.  There  is  certaine  rough  195. 
Illands  in  Muideort  And  the  countrie  itself  is  verie  rough  and 
craggie.  There  is  one  castle  in  this  countrie  which  is  called 
Illandtirrein.  And  it  is  builded  on  a  rock  high  above  the  sea 
and  shipps  doeth  come  to  the  castle  and  there  is  one  high 
mountaine  above  the  castle  on  the  west  and  southsyde  theroff 

Arryseig  next  to  Muideort.     This  countrie  is  plenteous  of 


168        HIGHLANDS— ARRYSEIG— KNOIDART 

milk  and  fish  abundance  but  verie  fertill  of  corne.  There  is 
one  Church  in  this  countrie  called  Kilmaroy  in  Arrisaig. 

Next  to  this  Countrie  two  Morrours  one  pertaining  to  the  Siell 
Allane  vie  Rannall  on  the  southsyde  or  south  somewhat  westa 
And  this  is  a  verie  rough  and  craggie  Countrie  having  bigg 
hills  or  mountains  and  there  is  abundance  of  fish  slaine  in  it. 

The  other  Morrour  on  the  Northsyd  of  the  Loch  pertaines 
to  the  Laird  of  Glengairie.  And  it  is  a  verie  litle  Countrie 
and  there  is  abundance  of  milk  and  fish  in  this  countrey  but 
not  fertill  of  corne  for  it  is  verie  rough  and  craggie  Countrey 
with  high  mountaines.  On  the  northsyde  of  this  North 
Morrour  there  is  ane  sea  Logh  comand  between  both  the 
countreys  of  Morrour  and  Knoidort  and  this  countrey  of 
Knoidort  is  very  fertill  of  corne,  and  abundance  of  milk  and 
all  kynd  of  fishes  in  this  Countrey.  There  is  sundrie  litle 
rivers  and  speciallie  fyve  litle  rivers,  two  of  them  at  the  head 
of  Loghneves  And  there  is  a  bigg  mountaine  betwixt  these 
two  rivers  and  the  river  which  doeth  lye  on  the  North westsyde 
of  this  high  bigg  mountaine  and  it  doeth  run  through  a  glen 
and  there  is  abundance  offish  in  this  glen.  There  are  other  two 
Rivers.  One  of  them  running  through  a  glen  called  Meddill. 
and  there  is  ane  fresh  water  Logh  wherthrou  another  litle 
river  doeth  run  and  there  is  abundance  of  fish  in  this  fresh 
water  Logh  and  the  two  waters  doe  meet  togidder  and  they 
runn  by  th  parish  church  of  the  said  Countrie  callit  Kilghoan 
196.  and  this  is  the  principall  dwelling  toune  of  the  Superior  of 
that  Countrie.  And  there  is  abundance  of  salmond  fish  slaine 
in  this  water  of  Killhoan.  And  on  the  Northsyde  of  this 
Countrey  there  is  a  verie  profitable  glen  for  guids  and  cattell 
to  feed,  And  there  is  a  river  runneing  throwgh  this  glen  And 
there  is  abundance  of  salmond  fish  slaine  therin  and  this  river 
is  called  Gaisiron,  and  the  glen  is  called  after  that  name  Glen- 
gaisiran.  There  is  one  Logh  of  saltwater  on  the  Northsyde  of 
Knoidart,  and  it  goeth  farr  up  above  eastward.  There  is 
abundance  of  herrings,  salmond  and  sundrie  other  fishes  slaine 


11  Westward  of  Lochmorrours  one  fresh  water  Loch  of  certaine  miles  of 
lenth  and  one  of  bredth  being  between  big-  mountaines  on  every  syde  as 
lykways  big  mountain  at  the  Westheed  yroff.  [Footnote  in  MS.] 


HIGHLANDS— GLENGAIRIE  169 

in  this  Logh  it  is  called  Loghvoirne.    There  is  one  glen  at  the 
southestsyde  and  there  is  ane  litle  river  or  glen  therintill. 

Glengairie a  is  the  next  countrie  to  Loghairgak  and  there 
one  litle  stray  betwixt  the  head  of  Loghloghie  and  the  other 
fresh  water  Logh  which  is  called  Erigh  and  this  litle  Strath  is 
one  myll  of  lenth  and  not  the  eight  part  of  a  myll  breadth 
it  is  called  Achadron  And  it  is  alleadgit  be  ancient  men  that 
this  bAchadron  is  the  midst  of  Scotland  in  lenth.  And  there 
is  one  stone  in  a  plaine  ground  in  the  stray  which  stands,  and 
it  is  called  the  stone  of  the  Ridge  of  Scotland  And  so  the 
strath  is  named  the  mid  part  of  Scotland.  The  sea  doeth 
flow  Northeast  throwgh  this  strath  and  southwest.  The  water 
or  river  of  Gairie  is  but  two  mylls  from  the  strath  of  Acha- 
drone  and  doeth  runn  out  of  Loghgairie,  Loghquheigh  and 
sundrie  others  is  fresh  water  Loghes,  This  Glengairie  is  verie 
profitable  and  fertill  of  come  fish  and  milk  And  on  the  south- 
westsyde  therof  there  is  a  wood  of  firr  trees  groweing  therin 
of  ten  or  twall  mylls  in  length,  and  on  the  Northsyde  of  this 
Countrey  of  Loghgarrie,  there  is  a  faire  Oakenwood,  The  197, 
length  of  this  fresh  water  logh  is  sex  mylls,  This  river  of 
Garrie  doth  flow  into  a  fresh  water  Logh  called  Logheoig;  and 
in  the  spring  tyme  there  is  abundance  of  salmond  slaine  in 
this  Logheoig,  The  principall  dwelling  place  or  toune  of  the 
Superior  of  Glengarrie  is  at  the  Southwest  head  of  this  Logh. 
This  Glengarrie  and  Achadrom  is  of  the  Lordship  of  Loqu- 
haber  and  Sherifdome  of  Innerness  the  names  of  the  haill 
glenns,  straths  of  the  Lordship  is  Mamor,  Loghlevin,  Glen- 
neves,  Gargawach,  Glenspean,  Glenroy,  Dawghnassie,  Logh- 
yeld,  Glenley,  Loghairgak.  Achadrome  and  Glengarrie.  These 
branches  of  the  Countrey  are  dividit  to  sundrie  Churches  such 
as  Ardgoure  in  the  Lordshipe  of  Morverne  and  Sherifdome  of 
Inverness.  Lochyell  Glenley,  Loghairgak.  Achadrome  and 
Glengarrie  pertaining  to  the  paroch  church  of  Kilmalie,  Logh- 

a  Jt  beginneth  at  Innershy,  Glenley  and  Lochargaik  and  to  the  Seill 
at  Louchlive  divides  Innernesshyre  and  Argyllshyre.  [Footnote  in  MS.] 

b  Achadron  is  the  country  betwixt  Lochoich  and  Lochlohy  there  is  a 
litle  burn  fra  the  hill  syde  that  divides,  one  branch  runs  to  the  Westsea 
into  Lochlohy  and  the  other  branch  runs  to  the  Eastsea  through 
Lochoich.  [Footnote  in  MS.] 


170  HIGHLANDS— GLENGARRIE 

levin,  Mamore  and  the  sevin  merklands  and  half  merk  of 
Glenneves  pertaineing  to  Illand-Moune,  Thrie  merklands  and 
ane  half  merkland  of  Glenneves  Gargawah  Glenspean,  Glenroy 
and  Dawghnassie  with  the  sex  merkland  of  Glenley  pertaineing 
to  the  paroch  of  Kilmanevag.  There  is  one  litle  toune  where 
there  was  a  chappell  builded  of  ancient,  not  two  mylls  from 
Kilmanevag  and  ancient  men  and  women  did  say  that  they 
did  sie  in  this  chappell  called  Achanahannat,  manie  Inhabi- 
tants and  houses  of  that  toune  selling  and  buying  wyne,  ale, 
aquavitse  &  sundrie  drinks  and  merchandice.  And  these 
ancient  men  do  testifie  that  the  Scotts  quart  of  wyne,  which  is 
asmuch  as  four  English  quarts  was  sold  for  Scotts  eighteen 
pennies  which  is  but  thrie  English  halfpence  And  one  quart 
of  nutts  for  and  ane  Scots  quart  of  Ale  good  and  strong 

for  a  shill.  and  a  quart  of  oatmeall  for  thrie  Scots  pennies. 
And  that  this  chappell  was  a  sanctuarie  and  holie  place  keipit 
amongst  the  Countreymen  in  the  said  antient  tyme.  And  that 
they  did  report  that  it  is  not  long  nor  manie  years  since  the 
same  hes  bein,  and  that  this  toun  is  without  anie  Inhabitants 
but  waste  and  desolate. 

In  the  water  or  river  of  Airgaik  there  was  seen  in  the  zeare 
1620  yeirs.  the  fourteenth  of  August,  the  tennants  and  gentle- 
men of  the  Countrey  being  at  the  building  of  a  bridge  of 
IBS.  timber  on  the  said  river,  at  the  latter  end  of  the  making  of 
the  bridge,  there  appeared  Innumerable  Adders  in  this 
water  of  Airgaick  Immediatlie  efter  the  Hnitione  of  the  said 
bridge,  The  gentlemen  and  tennants  perceiving  the  Adders 
and  all  the  water  in  such  a  pairt  a  litle  above  the  bridge  full 
of  cruell  and  terrible  beasts  and  certain e  of  the  biggest  of  the 
adders  did  lope  high  above  the  water,  and  certaine  others  of 
them  comeing  to  the  land,  did  goe  through  the  hadder  and 
grass  so  fast  that  the  whole  Companie  which  did  behold,  were 
much  affraied  at  this  terrible  and  Marvelous  sight.  And  at 
last  they  were  forced  to  leave  their  work  and  depart  from  that 
place,  which  they  did  say,  if  there  had  bein  such  sight  at  the 
beginning  of  the  work,  they  had  never  did  it. 

Abirtarff  is  next  to  Glengarrie  betwixt  the  southeast  head 
of  Loghness.  and  the  Northeast  head  of  Logherig.  This  river 
of  Erigh  doth  run  out  of  Logherigh  throw  that  countrey  of 
Arbitarff  And  at  the  mouth  of  this  river  there  is  ane  ancient 


ABIRTARFF—  GLENMORIESTOUNE  171 

Castle  and  verie  pleasant  plaine  of  Corneland  about  this 
antient  Castle  and  it  stands  at  the  Southwest  heid  of  Lochnes. 
There  is  ane  Church  toune  not  half  a  myll  from  the  mouth  of 
the  river  which  is  called  Killchuimen  in  Abirtarff',  and  there 
is  no  church  in  this  toune  but  it  is  the  Paroch  of  Abirtarff 
and  where  the  church  should  stand,  there  is  a  river  called 
Tarff.  and  running  by  it,  and  so  from  the  name  of  the  water 
the  countrey  is  called  Abirtarff  as  efter  followes. 

Next  to  Glengarrie  and  Achadrome  at  the  North  or  Northeast 
heid  of  this  Logh  is  Abirtarff  It  is  divydit  in  two  pairts  be- 
twixt the  Laird  of  Glengarrie  and  my  Lord  Lovatt,  it  is  a  verie 
profitable  and  fertill  Countrie.  And  there  two  rivers  which 
doeth  runne  through  this  Countrie  of  Abirtarff.  The  one  of 
the  rivers  doeth  flow  out  of  Logherigh  to  the  fresh  water  Logh- 
ness.  it  is  called  Erigh  or  the  water  of  Erigh,  and  efter  the 
name  theroff,  the  fresh  water  is  called.  The  other  river  or 
fresh  water  is  called  Tarff'  and  the  countrie  is  named  efter 
the  Water  Abirtarff.  This  doeth  runn  through  a  glen  efter  the  199. 
oune  Name  Glentarff.  from  the  east  and  floweth  in  Loghness  to 
the  North.  This  fresh  water  Loghnes  is  twantie  foure  my  11s 
in  length,  and  two  mylls  in  breadth  or  therby.  The  north- 
westsyde  of  this  Logh  there  is  certaine  countreys  pertaining  to 
the  Laird  of  Grant,  And  to  another  Barrone  of  his  kin  & 
freinds  of  the  name  and  race  of  the  Grants. 

This  next  Countrey  next  Abirtarff  is  Glenmoriestoune  and 
it  is  a  verie  profitable  and  fertill  litle  glen,  or  countrie  both 
plenteous  of  come  and  abundance  of  butter  cheese  and  milk 
and  great  and  long  woods  of  firr  trees  doeth  grow  in  that 
countrey.  and  the  river  doeth  transport  big  Jests  and  Cutts 
of  timber  to  the  fresh  water  Loghnes.  there  is  very  manie 
Deares  and  Raes  in  this  Countrie  and  high  mountaines  verie 
bigg  in  everie  syde  of  it.  The  glen  is  named  efter  the  water 
of  Glenmoristoune.  The  water  is  called  Moristoune  and 
this  river  runneth  out  sundrie  fresh  water  Loghes.  and  there 
is  sundrie  glenns  in  this  Countrey  verie  profitable  for  goods  and 
cattell  to  feed  in.  And  there  is  ane  litle  parish  Church  of 
timber  in  this  countrey  called  Millergheard.  And  there  is 
verie  faire  and  pleasant  cornelands  in  everie  syde  of  this  water 
or  river  of  Moristoune. 

The  next  Countrie  to  Glenmoristoune  on  the  Northwestsyde 


172    HIGHLANDS— WRQUHATTIN— STRANEARNE 

of  this  Logh  is  called  Wrquhattin.  And  this  countrie  is 
verie  profitable  and  fertill  of  corne  and  abundance  of  milk  in 
the  high  pairts  theroff  called  the  bray  of  Wrquhattane.  In 
the  midle  of  this  Countrey  there  is  a  fresh  water  Logh  and 
abundance  of  fish  are  slaine  with  lynes  in  all  tymes  of  the 
zeare.  there  is  ane  litle  river  running  out  of  this  Logh  called 
and  doeth  flow  in  Loghness  There  is  one  litle 
Chappell  at  this  Loghsyde  in  Wrquhattane  which  is  call 
Kil  Saint  Ninian.  and  certaine  hieland  men  and  woemen 
doeth  travell  to  this  chappell  at  a  certane  tyme  of  the  zeare 
expecting  to  recover  there  health  againe  and  doeth  drink  of 
certaine  springand  wells  that  is  next  to  the  Chappell. 

Wrquhattan  is  but  twall  mylls  from  Inverness  And  the  river 
200.  of  Nes  doeth  flow  into  the  sea  North,  and  runneth  out  of 
Lochnes.  And  so  this  fresh  water  Logh  hath  name  efter  this 
river  of  Nes,  Loghnes.  And  at  the  mouth  of  this  water  or 
river,  not  ane  my  11  from  the  sea  syde  there  is  a  burgh  called 
Invernes  And  there  is  a  castle  biggit  upone  ane  high  hill  or 
grein  above  the  toune  on  the  westsyde  of  the  said  burgh. 
There  is  abundance  of  salmond  slaine  in  this  river  And  this 
burgh  is  ane  ancient  toune  and  large  shyre. 

On  the  east  or  southeastsyde  of  Loghnes  next  to  Abirtarff 
there  is  a  countrey  which  is  called  Straharriggaick  And  it  is 
alleadged  this  countrey  is  the  highest  countrey  in  Scotland, 
and  it  is  likelie  to  be  true  in  respect  that  everie  countrey  which 
is  next  to  Straharriggaick  is  below,  and  it  as  it  were  upon  a 
mountaine  above  all  other  Countreys.  Ane  verie  cold  Countrey 
and  eivill,  fresh  waters  therintill  being  reid  colloured  running 
through  Mosses,  this  countrie  is  oftymes  verie  profitable  and 
fertill  of  corne  and  abundance  of  milk.  There  are  certaine 
Churches  in  Abirtarff'  and  Straharrigaick  Kilquhimen  in  Abir- 
tarff and  Boleskie  in  Straharrigaick  and  there  is  sundrie  glenns 
in  this  countrey  which  is  verie  profitable  for  feeding  of  guids. 
And  there  is  a  forrest  on  the  southeastsyd  of  this  countrie  and 
there  is  great  store  of  deire  in  that  glen  and  verie  manie  llaes 
in  all  the  glenns  and  woods  of  Straharrigaick  and  Arbitarff. 

Stranearne  next  countrey  to  Straharrigaick  eastward,  there 
is  ane  river  in  this  countrey  of  Stranearne  which  is  called 
Nearne.  And  there  is  faire  corne  lands  in  everie  syde  of  this 


HIGHLANDS— STRANEARNE— BADENOCH         173 

water  or  river.  This  Stranearne  is  a  verie  profitable  and  fertill 
countrie  and  pleasant  lands,  and  there  are  sundrie  Castles 
everie  syde  of  this  river  pertaining  to  divers  Superiors.  On  the 
Northwest  syde  of  this  river  at  the  mouth  of  it  almost  at  the 
seasyde  there  is  ane  ancient  litle  burgh  called  Invernearne 
And  it  is  not  fair  from  Inverness  eastward,  And  there  is  ane 
litle  burgh  laitlie  builded  not  two  myles  from  Invernearn 
called  Alterne.  The  Inhabitants  of  that  toune  come  to  Inver- 
nearn with  certain  companie  and  brake  the  cross  of  that 
antient  toune  and  did  cast  it  down  and  hes  friedome  them- 
selves now. 

Badenoch  eastward  from  Loquhaber  and  there  is  ane  fresh  801. 
Water  Logh  in  bray  of  Badanich  called  Loghlagan  and  the 
water  of  Spean  doth  run  out  of  this  logh  doun  through  the 
bray  or  high  pairt  of  Loquhaber.  And  sundrie  other  waters 
cloeth  flow  into  this  water  out  of  Loghtreig,  Loghgulbin  with 
sundrie  other  Loghs  and  waters.  This  Loghtreig  is  verie  pro- 
fitable for  guids  to  feed  therintill.  There  is  abundance  of 
milk  in  this  Logh  in  summer  harvest  and  spring  tyme.  There 
is  no  corne  lands  in  this  Logh  but  onlie  guid  for  pasture  and 
feeding  of  guids.  It  doth  lye  betwixt  high  Mountaines.  the 
one  head  of  this  Logh  lyeth  North  somewhat  Northeast,  the 
other  head  south  or  south  west.  There  is  abundance  of  litle 
fresh  water  fishes  oftymes  slaine  in  this  Logh. 

This  Loghlagane  is  in  the  bray  or  highest  pairt  of  Badenich 
and  this  bray  is  next  to  Loquhaber.  There  is  a  church  in  the 
bray  of  Badenoch  called  Lagankenith.  There  is  sex  mylls 
betwixt  Kilcherrill  in  bray  of  Loquhaber,  and  West  head  of 
Loghlagan  and  also  there  is  sex  mylls  betwixt  west  head  of 
the  Logh  and  Lagankenich.  that  church  toune  so  called. 

There  is  one  river  in  Badenoch  running  through  the  Coun- 
trie which  doth  runn  and  come  out  of  ane  litle  Logh  in  the 
brae  or  heid  of  Glenroy  in  Loquaber.  This  river  is  called 
Spay.  This  Countrie  of  Badenoch  is  verie  fertill  of  corne.  and 
plenteous  in  milk.  And  verie  much  and  pleasant  corne.  lands 
in  this  countrey  in  sundrie  and  diverse  glenns  and  litle  rivers 
or  waters  which  doth  flow  in  this  river  of  Speay.  Oftymes  this 
river  in  tyme  of  speat  or  stormie  weather  will  be  alse  bigg  as 
if  it  were  a  Logh,  and  also  als  broad  and  overflowes  all  the  low 


174          HIGHLANDS— BADENOCH— KNODEARD 

corne  lands  of  the  the  Countrey  next  to  itself,  on  everie  syde 
of  the  said  river  of  Spey.  The  next  Church  in  Badenoch  to 
Lagankenich  is  Kenzeossigh.  there  is  betwixt  Lagan- 

kenich  and  Kenzeossigh.  There  is  ane  castle  in  Badenoch 
forgainst  the  Church  of  Kenzeossigh  pertaining  to  the  Marquis 
of  Hun  the  which  is  the  Castle  of  Ruthven  in  Badenoch  and 
it  is  a  strong  Castle.  There  is  one  church  sex  mylls  from 
Kenzeossigh  called  Reallavie  There  is  other  parosh  churches 
in  Badenoch  And  there  is  great  store  of  Deare  in  Badenoch. 
202.  Knodeard  is  a  very  rough  countrey  full  of  mountaines,  Glens 
and  sundrie  litle  rivers  wherin  is  abundance  of  salmond  fish 
slaine  And  in  the  sea  of  Knodeord  there  is  abundance  of  all 
kind  of  fish  slaine,  and  bigg  mountains  on  everie  syde  of  this 
countrie  and  some  of  the  lands  theroff  doeth  lye  southward, 
some  other  pairts  West  and  some  North  forgainst  Glenelge, 
The  lands  which  are  in  Loghneves  forgainst  Morrour  is  rough 
being  the  southsyde  of  the  Countrey.  The  midst  of  the 
countrey  lyeth  westward  foregainst  Sleit,  and  this  is  the  most 
plain  and  pleasant  place  of  the  countrey  The  Northsyde 
forgainst  Glenelg  is  verie  rough  and  abundance  of  salmond 
fish  and  herrings  and  other  kynd  of  fish  is  slaine  in  that  Logh 
called  Loghuirne,  in  some  little  rivers  at  the  syd  of  the  Logh 
in  a  glen  called  Glenbaristill  and  another  river  at  the  head  of 
the  Logh  And  there  are  great  store  of  deare  and  rae  in 
Knoidord. 

Glenelg  *  ane  countrie  being  on  the  Northsyde  of  Loghurne 
pertaining  to  McLeod  of  Harie.  is  one  verie  profitable  fertill 
and  faire  pleasant  corne  land  Countrie.  haveing  two  glenns  most 
fertill  and  pleasant  of  corne  milk  and  abundance  of  salmond 
fish  in  that  two  rivers  which  doth  runn  through  these  two 
glens  And  this  countrie  is  good  for  cattell  to  feed.  There  is 
one  church  or  Parosh  in  this  Countrie  called  Killchinnen  in 
Glenelge  there  is  one  Keyle  or  ferric  one  narrow  part  of  the 
sea  which  runneth  between  Glenelg  and  Slait  and  there  is 
abundance  of  fish  slaine  in  that  Logh  and  it  is  called  Kilraa. 
This  countrey  of  Glenelg  is  marched  with  Kintaill  and  it  is  of 


*  Glenelg  is  forgainst  Kneadort  on  the  Xorthsyde  of  Loghurne  which 
doeth  flow  eastward  between  Knedert  and  Glenelg.     [Footnote  in  MS.] 


GLENELG— KEARERAY— COLLA— MUCK   175 

the  Diocie  of  Argyll  and  Sheriffdome  of  Invernes.  On  the 
south  syde  of  this  Countrie  forgainst  Knoidart  there  is  a  litle 
toune  and  a  litle  river  running  through  the  toune  to  the  sea. 
And  if  anie  man  or  woman  will  cast  a  tree  in  this  water,  all 
that  is  above  the  water  will  be  a  tree  as  it  was  affbir,  and  all 
that  is  under  the  water  will  be  transformed  in  a  stone  als  hard  Mi 
as  anie  other  stone  and  this  was  tryed  oftymes  and  anie  tree 
that  falls  from  the  mountains  into  it  is  lykwayes  transformit  in 
a  stone  And  this  toune  is  called  Arnistill  in  Glenelg. 

Keareray  is  ane  Illand  pertaining  to  Makcoull  of  Lome  next 
to  Dunnoligh  forgainst  the  Northend  of  that  Illand.  the 
Castle  of  Dunnoligh  standing  on  the  Westsyde  of  the  head  of 
Keareray.  This  Illand  is  verie  fertill  and  profitable  or  corne 
and  abundance  of  milk,  it  is  of  two  mylls  and  ane  half  in 
length  or  therby  between  the  two  ends  of  it  and  not  one  myll 
in  breadth  There  is  one  litle  Castle  or  tour  on  the  southwest 
end  of  it.  And  it  is  called  Dundouchie.  In  this  Illand  there 
are  manie  foxes  which  will  kill  sheep  and  lambs  and  they  are 
somewhat  bigger  then  the  foxes  that  are  on  mainlands  and 
more  bold  in  killing  sheep  and  lambs  for  upon  the  maineland 
the  foxes  doeth  no  harme  to  anie  kynd  of  cattle,  sheep  nor 
goats  but  the  wolfes  which  is  the  destructione  of  horses,  cattell, 
sheep,  goates  Deare  and  Rae. 

Colla  is  ane  Illand  being  of  certaine  mylls  in  length  and 
breadth  pertaining  to  certaine  of  the  name  and  race  of  the 
Clanns  of  our  Mcleans  That  Illand  of  Colla  is  verie  fertill 
and  profitable  for  corne  and  speciallie  of  barley  which  doeth 
most  grow  in  that  Hand.  There  is  abundance  of  seafish  in 
this  countrey  and  lykwayes  there  is  ane  Castle  therin 

Next  to  this  Illand  of  Colla  there  is  ane  Illand  called  Illand 
Muck  that  is  to  say  the  hoggisilland  and  it  is  on  the  southend 
of  It  is  verie  profitabill  and  fertill  of  corne  and 

abundance  of  milk  and  fish  in  this  Illand  and  there  is  a  strenght 
in  it  on  a  rock  or  craig  builded  be  the  Master  and  Superior  of 
the  Illand  in  tyme  of  warrs  which  was  betwixt  him  and  cer- 
taine enemies.  This  Illand  appertaines  to  the  Bishop  of  the 
Illes  of  the  highlands  of  Scotland  being  but  sex  merkland 

Eig.  this  Illand  is  profitable  and  fertill  of  corne  and  milk 
and  abundance  of  fish  in  the  sea  about  that  Illand  but  they 


176  HIGHLANDS— EIGG— RHUM 

804.  have  no  skill  to  slay  the  said  fish.  There  is  ane  litle  Church 
in  this  Illand  called  Kildonayne  And  this  is  the  principall 
toune  of  the  Superior  of  the  Countrey.  And  there  is  ane  high 
mountaine  on  the  southwest  syde  of  this  Countrey.  And  it  is 
ane  verie  good  strength  against  enemies,  that  wold  doe  anie 
harme  or  skaith  to  the  Countrey  for  it  wold  keep  themselves 
that  are  Inhabitants  of  the  Hand  saiff,  and  their  wyffs  and 
children  with  all  their  moveable  goods  or  geir  which  they  could 
bring  or  carie  with  them  to  the  tope  of  that  hill,  or  moun- 
taine, In  this  mountaine  there  is  a  Mure,  and  Mosses  and  in 
the  midst  of  the  tope  of  that  mountaine  there  is  a  fresh  water 
Logh.  And  in  the  midst  of  that  Logh  there  is  ane  Illand 
which  wold  hold  a  certain  number  of  men  and  women  with 
their  bairnes.  This  Illand  of  Eig  is  thirtie  merks  lands,  thrie 
mylls  in  length  or  thereby  and  two  my  11s  broad.  They 
perished  and  destroyed  with  the  smoak  of  the  fyre  the  number 
of  both  of  men  and  woemen  an  barnes  within  ane  Cove  or  den 
that  is  in  this  Illand  of  the  Inhabitants  by  McLeod  of  Harie 
being  in  warrs  against  him  for  that  tyme,  and  taking  this  place 
for  their  safetie  and  refuge. 

Rhum  is  ane  big  Illand  being  on  the  Westsyde  of  Eig  and 
on  the  southeast  syde  of  Canna,  This  Illand  appertaines  to 
the  Laird  of  Colla  containing  therintill  but  two  tounes  of 
Cornelands.  One  of  these  two  tounes  upon  the  North  westsyde 
of  this  bigg  Illand  of  Rhum  And  another  toune  on  the  West 
and  southwestsyde  theroff.  The  toune  which  is  on  the  North- 
west syde  theroff  is  called  Kilmoir  in  Rhum  and  the  other 
Glenhairie  in  Rhum,  the  Illand  is  verie  profitable  for  there 
is  abundance  of  butter,  cheese  and  milk  in  this  Illand  for  there 
is  no  cornelands  in  it,  but  such  as  doth  grow  in  these  two 
tounes  forsaid,  but  it  is  verie  good  for  goods  to  feed  intill  in 
respect  that  it  is  full  of  muires,  mossis,  glenns  hills  and  verie 
bigg  mountaines,  there  is  verie  manie  Deare  in  this  Illand 

•'"•'>•  and  certane  foullis  which  will  be  taken  in  these  mountaines 
and  are  exceeding  fatt,  of  the  fattest  birds  or  foulis  which  is 
in  all  the  sea  they  are  no  bigger  then  a  dove  or  somewhat  les 
in  bignes.  Somewhat  gray  in  coloure  of  their  feathers  being 
of  the  most  delicate  birds  to  be  eaten  that  is  bred  within  the 
whole  Illand,  except  that  doe  taste  oyld. 


HIGHLANDS— CAINNA— BARRAY  177 

Cainna  ane  Illand  pertaining  to  the  Captaine  of  the  Clan- 
ronnald  being  next  to  the  Illand  of  Rhum,  on  the  westsyde  of 
Rhum  betwixt  it  and  Wist.  This  Cainna  is  verie  profitable 
and  fertill  both  of  come  and  milk  with  abundance  of  all  kynd 
of  seafishes  And  there  is  verie  manie  of  these  foulls  and  birds 
aforsaid  which  are  found  in  Rhum,  are  found  in  this  Illand. 
There  is  one  litle  Illand  on  the  Southwest  end  or  syde  of  this 
Illand  called  Haysgair  nequissag.  And  when  scutts  boats  or 
gallys  cannot  land  in  Cainna  nor  in  Haysgair  nor  yet  in  Tiry 
The  ancient  Inhabitants  and  principall  of  these  Countries  do 
say  that  saids  Gallies  boats  nor  scutts  can  nowayes  land  neither 
in  Scotland  England  nor  yet  in  Ireland. 

Barmy  is  one  Illand  being  in  the  Maine  seas  farr  from  the 
Mainelands.  it  is  of  fyve  myls  of  Length  with  certane  glenns 
verie  profitable  for  goods  to  feed  therintill.  And  this  Illand 
is  verie  fertill  of  come  and  milk  and  abundance  of  fish  is  slaine 
in  the  sea  of  Barray.  There  is  certane  Illands  on  the  North- 
end  of  Barray  pertaining  to  the  Superior  which  are  named 
Erisgae  fuda  Linga  fara  with  certaine  other  litle  Illands. 

On  the  Southend  or  southwest  there  are  severall  litle 
Illands  which  are  profitable  and  fertill  both  of  corne  and 
abundance  of  milk.  And  none  can  goe  with  scutts  or  boatts 
to  those  Sowthwest  Illands  but  in  those  tymes  of  the  yeare 
such  as  Aprill  and  Summer  and  in  the  beginning  of  August. 
The  Master  or  Superior  of  these  Illands  hath  in  due  payment 
from  the  Inhabitants  and  tennants  of  the  saids  Illands  for  his 
dewtie.  the  half  of  ther  cornes  butter  cheese  and  all  other 
comodities,  which  does  Incres  or  grow  to  them  in  the  yeare, 
And  hath  ane  officer  or  Serjeant  in  everie  Illand  to  uptake  the 
samen.  The  names  of  those  Illands  is  called  Watersa, 
Sandira,  Pappa,  Mewla,  and  Bearnera.  These  Hands  are  farr 
off  from  all  Countries.  There  is  one  Church  in  Barray  on  the 
North  or  Northeast  end  of  it  which  is  called  Kilbarray.  And 
in  this  toune  there  is  one  springand  fresh  water  Well.  And 
the  Inhabitants  and  ancient  men  and  woemen  both  of  men  and 
woemen  in  this  toune  and  of  the  Countrie  especiallie  one 
ancient  man  being  of  fyve  or  sexscoir  zeares  old  doeth  say 
that  when  appearance  of  Warrs  wer-to  be  in  the  Countrey  of 
Barray  That  certaine  drops  of  blood  hath  oftymes  bein  sein 

VOL.  n.  M 


178  HIGHLANDS— BARRAY 

in  this  springand  fresh  Water  Well.     The  Laird  and  Superior 
of  this  Countrey  was  called  Rorie  McNeill  being  ane  verie 
ancient  man  of  sexscore  yeares  old  or  therby  did  report  this 
to  be  true.     And  also  did   report  this  to  be  true  lykwayes 
whensoever  appearance  of  peace  wold  be  in  the  Countrie  That 
certain  litle  bitts  of  Peitts  wold  be  sein.     There  is  one  litle 
springand  fresh  water  running  out  of  ane  grein  hill  above  the 
Church,  which  doeth  flow  into  the  sea,  And  there  is  springand 
there  certane  litill  Cockles  shells  which  they  alleadge  that  the 
samen  doth  flow  into  the  sea  out  of  the  Well  and  doeth  grow 
in  another  place  next  the  Church  not  the  tenth  part  of  ane 
myll    from   the    Church    of    Barray   called    Kilbarray.     And 
there  is  abundance  of  choice  litle  cockle  shells  found.     The 
wholl  countreymen  and  tennants  doe  conveen  togidder  to  this 
place  when  the  sea  doeth  ebb  and  bring  with  them  certaine 
number   of  horses  and  gather   in   this    place   abundance   of 
Cockles.     The  length  of  this  sandie  place  is  ane  myll  and  ane 
half  or  therby.  and  no  less  broad.     Certaine  of  these  Inhabi- 
tants will  come  fyve  mylls  with  ther  horses,  and  bring  home 
asmuch  with  them  as  their  horses  will  beare  of  these  cockles. 
And  if  ten  thousand  cold  come,  they  should  have  als  many  as 
there  horses  were  able  to  carrie  everie  day  gotten  and  gathered 
in  this  place.     And  it  is  gotten  below  the  sand,  And  when 
you  doe  come  and  stand  on  that  sand  with  your  horses  you 
will  think  the  place  verie  dry,  but  when  you  doe  put  zour 
hands  below  into  the  sand  you  shall  see  abundance  of  the  saids 
su7.  cockles  comeing  above  the  sand,  and  als  much  of  the  sea  Water 
as  will  wash  them  from  the  sand. 

Next  to  this  place  there  is  ane  plaine  ground  of  faire  green 
earth  on  the  Westsyde  of  this  sandie  place.  And  this  is 
called  Mealloch.  In  this  Mealloch  there  is  ane  litle  Chappell 
called  Kilmoir  and  it  lyeth  on  a  verie  pleasant  grein.  And 
one  litle  hill  of  green  ground  is  betwixt  this  Chappell  and  the 
principall  Church  of  the  Countrie.  for  this  Church  of  Kilmoire 
is  on  the  Northsyde  of  the  litle  hill,  and  the  Chappell  of 
Kilmoire  on  the  Southsyde.  In  this  Chappell  as  the  Inhabi- 
tants say  that  there  is  certaine  earth  within  this  Chappell 
which  if  anie  man  wold  carrie  the  samen  with  him  to  the  sea, 
And  if  the  wind  or  stormie  strong  weather  were  cruell  and 


HIGHLANDS— BARRAY  179 

vehement  if  he  wold  caste  a  litle  of  this  earth  into  the  sea  it 
wold  pacific  the  wind  and  the  sea  wold  grow  calme  im- 
mediatlie  efter  the  casting  the  earth  into  the  sea.  The  Main 
seas  and  the  seas  next  to  Scotland  are  on  everie  syde  of  this 
Chappell.  The  Main  seas  doth  come  from  the  West,  and  the 
other  sea  from  the  east,  and  almost  the  saids  two  seas  doth 
forgadder  and  meet  with  other.  And  they  have  cutt  and 
broke  the  lands  in  divyding  the  Illand  of  Barray  into  two 
pairts  almost  next  to  the  litle  Chappell  of  Kilmore.  The 
Inhabitants  of  this  Illand  are  called  Clan  Neill  Barray. 

There  is  one  castle  in  this  Illand  on  the  South  end  in  one 
litle  Illand  of  Craig  or  rock  builded  verie  strong.  And  there 
is  ane  fresh  water  Logh  betwixt  Kilbarr  and  this  castle  of 
Kilsimull.  And  there  is  a  litle  toure  of  stone  and  lyme 
builded  in  ane  litle  Illand  in  the  midst  of  this  Logh,  and  the 
toune  wherin  this  litle  toure  is  builded  is  called  Arnistill. 
there  is  no  great  rivers  of  fresh  water  in  Barray  but  one  litle 
Water  in  a  toune  called  Quir,  and  there  is  a  litle  mill  in  that 
water  and  no  more  mills  in  all  the  Illand.  Bot  everie  hus- 
bandman in  the  countrey  hes  ane  Instrument  in  their  houses 
called  one  Kewrne  and  the  two  stones  doth  lye  on  the  house 
Hoore,  and  that  place  is  made  cleane 

The  most  corne  which  doeth  grow  in  this  countrie  is  good 
barley  and  one  verie  fertill  countrie  of  that  kinde  of  Corne 
and  there  are  manie  Wyld  birds  or  fowles  in  this  Countrey. 
The  Inhabitants  theroff'  are  verie  antient  Inhabitants  and  the 
Superior  or  Laird  of  Barray  is  called  Rorie  McNeill.  he  is  sex  208. 
or  sevin  score  of  years  as  himself  did  say.  This  ancient  man 
in  tyme  of  his  youth  being  a  valiant  and  stout  man  of  warr 
and  hearing  from  skippers  that  oftymes  were  wont  to  travell 
to  ane  Illand  which  the  Inhabitants  of  the  Illand  alledged  this 
McNeill  and  his  predecessors  should  be  their  Superiors, 
which  Illand  is  sein  oftymes  from  the  tope  of  the  mountaines 
of  Barray. 

This  Rorie  hearing  oftymes  the  same  newes  reported  to  him 
and  to  his  predecessors,  he  fraughted  a  shipe  but  nowayes 
could  find  the  Illand,  at  last  was  driven  to  Ireland  on  the 
West  syd  theroff.  And  took  up  a  Spreath,  and  returned  home 
therefter. 


1 80  HIGHLANDS— WIST 

This  McNeill  had  several!  Noblemens  daughters  and  had 
sundrie  bairnes.  and  at  last  everie  one  of  them  thinking  and 
esteeming  himself  to  be  worthie  of  the  Countrie  after  the 
fathers  deceass  being  on  lyff  as  yet.  the  saids  sones  haveing 
sundrie  mothers,  at  last  everie  one  of  them  did  kill  others 
except  one  that  is  alyffand  another  drowned  in  the  sea. 

Wist  the  next  cotmtrie  or  Illand  that  is  to  Barray  North- 
ward and  there  is  sexteen  mylls  of  sea  betwixt  Wist  and 
Barray.  This  Countrie  is  verie  profitable  and  fertill  of  come, 
milk  and  abundance  of  salmond  and  other  fishes.  There  are 
verie  manie  wilde  Gray  Gasis,  and  sundrie  other  wilde  fowls. 
There  are  sundrie  litle  toures  builded  in  the  midst  of  fresh 
water  Loghes,  and  exceeding  bigg  Mountaines  on  the  south- 
east theroff.  And  the  sea  fishes  are  slaine  on  that  syde  of  the 
Countrie.  And  the  Mainland  is  one  the  West  and  Northwest 
syde  theroff  The  sea  doth  flow  into  the  fresh  water  Loghes 
in  Wist,  and  all  the  fresh  water  in  this  Countrie  doth  taste  of 
salt  sea  water  exceptand  fresh  spring  wells.  Much  Barley  doth 
grow  in  this  countrey  Ancient  men  in  that  Countrey  were 
reportand  that  there  is  much  of  the  lands  of  Wist  over- 
whelmed and  destroyed  with  the  sea,  and  the  sand  doeth  flow 
209.  with  the  winde  and  destroyes  both  the  lands  and  hyds  the 
houssis  below  the  sand,  and  so  the  most  pairt  of  the  Countrie 
is  overwhelmed  with  sand. 

There  was  ane  Ancient  man  in  a  toune  in  Wist  called  Kill- 
pettill  and  this  old  man  said  that  he  was  sex  or  sevinscoir  of 
years  old  and  he  did  sie  another  church  with  the  lands  of  the 
Parish  wherein  that  church  did  stand.  And  these  lands  were 
more  profitable  fertill  and  pleasant  then  these  that  are  in 
Wist  now.  And  that  his  father  and  mother,  his  grandfather 
and  Grandmother  did  see  another  parish  Church  which  was 
destroyed  with  the  sea  long  agoe.  And  that  they  did  call  that 
Church  Kilmarchirmore  The  next  was  called  Killpettill, 
And  this  Church  wherin  he  doth  dwell  now  into,  was  called 
Killmony  which  is  now  called  Killpettill  that  is  to  say  the 
Mure  Church,  because  it  lyeth  next  the  Mures.  Mosses  and 
Mountains  And  this  Church  is  below  the  sands  except  foure 
or  fyve  foot  length  of  the  pinnacle  of  that  church  And  the 
pairt  of  there  houses  which  are  nearest  the  seasyde  for  the 


HIGHLANDS— WIST— HARIE  181 

Wind  doth  blow  up  the  sand  upon  the  lands  and  the  churches 
were  destroyed  with  the  sea  which  were  principall  Churches  of 
Ancient.  Certaine  of  them  will  be  seen  when  the  sea  ebbs  in 
the  summer  tyme.  And  the  Countrie  people  will  take 
Lobsters  out  of  the  windowes  of  the  Pinnacle  of  that  which 
was  first  called  Killpettill  before  it  was  destroyed  with  the 
sea.  Ther  is  one  castle  in  this  Countrey  in  one  pairt  theroft* 
called  Beinmhaill  And  there  is  one  church  in  the  Southend  of 
Wist  which  is  called  and  in  this  tonne  there  is  thrie 

Churches.  This  pairt  of  Wist  which  we  have  writt,  is  the 
southern!  of  this  Countrey  and  the  Superior  theroff  is  the 
Captaine  of  the  Clanrannald  of  the  race  and  name  called 
SieCallane  or  Clanronnald  being  of  the  Clandonalds  descendit 
of  the  house  of  McDonald. 

The  North  end  of  Wist  is  verie  pleasant  and  profitable 
Countrie  both  fertill  of  corne,  and  speciallie  of  barley,  there 
is  abundance  of  fish,  milk  and  herring.  There  is  ane  Illand 
pertaining  to  the  Superior  and  Lord  of  this  Countrie  which  is 
called  Heysker  and  there  is  certaine  Illands  besyde  that 
liland  in  the  Main  seas,  And  the  Inhabitants  of  the  Countrey  210. 
doe  meet  and  gather  themselves  togidder  once  in  the  yeare 
upon  ane  certaine  tyme  in  faire  and  good  weather  and  bring 
bigg  trees  and  stafs  in  ther  hands  with  them  as  weapons  to 
kill  the  selchis  which  doeth  Innumerable  conveen  and  gather 
to  that  Illand  at  that  tyme  of  the  yeare.  And  so  the  men 
and  the  selchis  doe  fight  stronglie  And  there  will  be  Innumer- 
able seiches  slaine  wherwith  they  loaden  ther  boatts,  which 
causes  manie  of  them  oftymes  perish  and  droune  in  respect 
that  they  loaden  ther  boatts  with  so  manie  selchis. 

The  Harie  ane  Illand  of  McLeod  of  Harie.  This  Countrie 
is  verie  fertill  and  plenteous  of  corne  and  abundance  of  fish 
slaine  And  milk  butter  and  cheese  abundance,  There  is 
manie  Deir  in  this  Countrey.  And  also  there  is  certaine 
Illands  in  this  countrey  belonging  to  McLeod,  where  the 
Inhabitants  doe  slay  a  number  of  fish.  This  Countrie  and 
Lewis  they  are  one  Illand  almost,  but  there  is  two  Loghes  of 
the  sea  which  doeth  come  betwixt  the  two  Countries  and  ther 
two  heads  are  but  one  myll  from  another.  There  is  a  church 
in  Harie  in  the  toune  of  Rovidill  and  there  is  a  litle  tonre  in 


182  HIGHLANDS— HARIE— SKYE 

this  toune  named  by  ane  Saint  called  Cleamean  which  is  in 
English  called  St.  Cleaman.  There  is  thriescore  mylls  in  all 
the  Harie  and  Lewis  of  length.  There  is  twantie  foure  mylls 
betwixt  the  Harie  and  Maine  corneland  of  Lewis,  of 
Mountaines  Glenns  Mures  and  Mosses.  The  race  and 
names  of  the  Clanleod  of  Harie  are  called  Siall  Tormend 
or  Siol  Tormad. 

Skye  is  a  verie  bigg  and  long  Illand.  The  one  end  lyeing 
south  and  the  other  north.  There  are  sundrie  Countries  con- 
tained in  this  Illand,  Sleitt  being  on  the  South  pertaining  to 
Donald  Gorme  McDonald,  is  a  verie  fertill  Countrie  of  corne 
and  abundance  of  milk  for  it  hes  faire  and  pleasant  corne 
lands  And  verie  good  for  grass  and  cattell  to  feed  in.  There 
,  are  two  ancient  Castles  in  this  Countrie.  The  one  doth  ly  on 
the  east  or  southeastsyde  of  this  Countrie  forgainst  Knoideart 
and  the  other  castle  doth  lye  on  the  North westsyde  of  Sleitt. 
And  the  first  is  called  Castle  Chames,  and  the  other  Dunskaig. 
This  countrie  is  bot  thirtie  merk  lands. 

Next  to  Sleitt  there  is  a  countrie  caller  Straquhardill  and 
doth  lye  amongst  Mountaines  that  is  betwixt  Sleitt  and  it 
And  betwixt  certaine  Countries  of  McLeod  of  Harie  and 
Donald  Gormes  Countrey,  and  Straquhardill.  This  countrie 
doth  lye  in  ane  plaine  and  it  is  verie  fertill  of  corne  and 
plenteous  of  milk  and  fish,  and  abundance  of  herrings.  The 
Laird  or  Superior  theroff  is  called  Mackfenayne.1  And  the 
Inhabitants  of  this  Countrie  are  of  that  name,  and  are  called 
Clanfenayne  there  is  much  pasturadge  for  guids  in  this 
Countrey.  And  abundance  of  Deir  and  Roe.  There  is  ane 
Illand  on  the  Northeastsyde  theroff'  called  Scalpa.  The  deir 
in  summer  and  especiallie  in  harvest  doeth  eatt  the  corne  in 
this  Countrie.  This  Church  doth  stand  on  the  Eastsyde  of 
this  Illand.  There  is  a  litle  toure  in  Straquhardle  att  the 
narrow  pairt  of  ane  Logh  of  the  sea  which  floweth  between 
the  Northcoast  and  the  Skye  and  this  toure  is  called  the 
Castle  of  Killagin 

The  next  Countrey  to  Straquhardill  is  Brayhairport  and 
Tronderness.      This    Brayhairport   pertaines  to    McLeod    of 


1  '  Mac-Innon '  interlined  in  MS. — ED. 


HIGHLANDS— SKYE— LEWIS  188 

Harie  And  thrie  other  litle  Countries  which  are  Meiknes,1 
Bragadill  and  Dewrenes.  These  Countries  are  profitable,  fertill 
and  plenteous  of  Come  and  milk,  and  abundance  of  all  kynd 
of  fish  in  these  Countries  and  there  are  litle  rivers  in  them 
where  there  are  abundance  of  salmond  fish  slayne.  There  is 
a  Castle  in  Durenes  which  is  called  Dunfeggan.2  And  this  is 
the  principal!  dwelling  place  of  McLeod  in  this  litle  countrie 

Next  this  countrie  There  is  a  litle  countrie  called  Vadarnes 
and  this  countrie  pertaines  to  McLeod  of  Haries  being  of 
ancient  in  possession  by  McLeod,  Lewis  is  a  verie  profitable 
and  fertill  countrie  both  of  corne,  milk  and  abundance  of 
fish,  it  is  hot  foure  daughes  of  land,  this  is  a  thrittie  two 
merkland. 

Drointernes  is  the  next  Countrie  to  Vadernes  and  Brayhair- 
port,  doeth  lye  North  from  McLeods  countrie,  and  two  Loghes 
doeth  come,  one  of  them  from  the  west  betwixt  Drointernes. 
The  one  of  them  called  LoghRi  which  doeth  come  east  and 
floweth  West.  The  other  Loghsinsort  on  the  West  end  of  the 
Countrie  and  floweth  east.  These  two  Loches  maketh  almost 
Drunternes  to  be  ane  yland  be  itself.  There  is  a  Castle  in 
this  countrie  which  is  called  Duntoylme  in  Drointernes.  And 
it  is  builded  on  ane  high  rock  above  the  sea,  There  is  a 
parosh  Church  in  this  Countrie  and  it  is  a  most  pleasant  pro- 
fitable and  most  fertill  Countrey  both  of  corne  and  abundances 
of  milk.  The  Lord  and  Superior  therof  Donald  Gornie 
McDonald  of  Sleitt.  There  are  great  mountaines  in  this 
Countrey  it  is  sixteenscoir  merklands.  It  is  of  length  sexteen 
or  twantie  mylls  and  in  breadth  in  some  places  sex,  others 
eight  mylls.  There  is  abundance  of  all  kinde  of  fishes  in  this 
countrie. 

Lewis  is  the  next  countrie  to  the  Harie,  for  both  these  coun- 
tries are  but  one  Illand  conjoyned  togidder.  Lewis  being  on 
the  Northend  and  the  Harie  on  the  Southend.  There  is  two 
Loghes  in  the  sea  betwixt  these  two  Countries.  And  one 
Myll  of  plaine  land  at  the  heids  of  these  two  Loghes.  The 
one  of  them  doeth  flow  west  and  the  other  southeast.  There 
is  twentie  four  mylls  of  bigg  mountaines  Glenns,  Mosses  and 


Mig-inis '  interlined  in  MS.— ED.          2  « Veggan '  interlined  in  MS.— ED. 


184  HIGHLANDS— LEWIS 

Mures  betwixt  Lews  and  the  Harie.  There  are  certaine 
parochins  in  the  Lewis.  The  first  that  is  on  the  Westsyde  of 
Lews  is  called  the  Parish  of  Wuicg  the  principall  toune 
wherin  the  McLeods  of  Lews  were  wont  to  dwell  into. 
Within  this  countrie  parish  wes  Pappa  being  ane  Illand  in 
the  sea.  The  Paorish  of  Bearnera  is  next  to  that  countrie  of 
Wuicg.  There  is  thrie  Loghes  of  the  sea  which  doeth  flow, 
Loghgarlua  on  the  Northsyd  of  Bearnera  Loghrogan  on  the 
southwestsyde.  And  on  the  southeastsyde  Logh  Keanhewli- 
vaig.  And  at  the  heid  of  this  Logh  there  are  thrie  litle 
rivers  or  fresh  waters  where  there  are  abundance  of  salmond 
fish  slaine.  And  next  to  Bearnera  the  parish  of  Charlnay. 
And  the  rest  of  the  paorishes  of  that  countrie  of  Lewis  are 
called  the  paorish  of  Braiggarie  the  Paorish  of  Claddigh, 
the  paorish  of  Nes  and  these  paorishes  are  on  the  Northsyd  of 
Lewis.  The  paorish  of  Haye  on  the  eastsyde  of  Lewis. 

Steornua  is  the  principall  and  chieffest  toune  where  the 
McLeods  of  Lewis  wer  wont  to  duell  intill,  And  there  is  a 
castle  in  this  toune,  which  was  builded  of  ancient  be  these 
Inhabitants  and  Superiors  of  Lewis.  And  this  toune  which 
was  their  cheiffest  dwelling  place  in  all  Lewis  is  betwixt  the 
Paorish  of  Nes  and  the  paorish  of  Loghes  on  the  Southsyde  of 
Steornua  and  on  the  eastsyde  of  the  countrie  and  one  of  the 
Mcleods  principall  ffbrrests  which  is  called  Oysserfaill  in  Irish 
and  in  English  Oysserfeild  on  the  southsyde  of  the  parish  of 
Loghes,  wherein  there  are  bigg  mountaines  with  Innumerable 
Deir.  There  is  sundrie  Loghes  of  the  sea  in  this  Illand  of 
Lews  and  abundance  of  all  kynd  of  fishes  slayne  thereintill. 
The  name  of  the  first  is  Logh  sivard  in  the  Hairie  The  heid 
theiroff  is  eastward  and  the  mouth  theroff  southward,  there 
are  abundance  of  herrings  in  this  Logh.  and  one  litle  river 
doeth  runn  into  this  Logh,  called  the  water  of  Sivard  and 
oftymes  there  is  abundance  of  salmond  fish  slayne  in  this  water 
of  Sivard.  There  is  another  river  which  is  called  the  water  of 
Logsa  running  from  the  North  and  flowing  into  ane  Logh 
called  Loghserisford.  the  mouth  of  this  logh  is  to  the  east, 
there  is  abundance  of  salmond  fish  slayne  everie  tyme  of  the 
yeare  in  this  Logh  and  of  all  kynd  of  fishes  is  slaine  in 
Loghaerisford.  And  this  Logh  is  next  to  the  Forrest  where 


HIGHLANDS— LEWIS  185 

McLeod  wont  and  usit  to  hunt  at  the  Deire.  In  the  parish  of 
Wuicg  there  is  a  Logh  which  is  called  Loghdua.  And  there 
is  a  river  runneing  in  that  Logh  where  there  is  abundance  of 
fish  slaine  in  one  round  water  at  the  mouth  of  that  river, 
And  when  the  sea  doeth  flow  there  will  come  abundance  of 
fish  in  that  pairt  of  the  river  therein.  And  efter  the  sea  ebbs 
abundance  and  Innumerable  fisch  will  be  slaine  in  that  place. 
There  is  on  the  Northwest  en  of  Lewis  ane  Logh  which  is 
called  Loghbervais  and  the  fresh  water  river  which  doth  runne 
out  of  this  Logh  is  but  half!'  a  myll  in  length,  there  was 
thrie  thousand  bigg  salmond  slayne  in  this  river  in  anno  1585. 
There  is  a  bigg  forrest  in  that  place  in  the  North  end  of  the 
Lewis  being  a  mountaine  called  Cadsoill  or  Cadfeild  and  the 
Deir  which  doeth  remaine  in  this  Mountaine  or  forrest  hath 
two  tayles  and  speciallie  the  Native  and  kind  of  Deir  of  this 
Mountaine  by  all  other  forrests  or  mountaines  in  the 
Lewes 

There  is  another  place  in  the  Countrey  called  Duhakabaick 
wherin  there  is  slaine  a  kynd  of  fish  that  hes  foure  feet  like 
a  Lizard  or  Snake.  And  this  fish  is  litle,  thick  and  broad, 
And  colloure  of  it  is  red.  The  length  of  Lewis  is  fourtie 
my  11s  and  in  breadth  in  certaine  pairts  twentie  or  fourtie 
mylls  and  certaine  other  pairts  of  the  Countrey  twall  or  ten 
mylls  This  Countrie  of  Lewis  is  profitable,  commodious  and 
fertill  of  corne,  and  abundance  of  all  kynd  of  fishes  slaine  in 
this  Countrie  zearlie.  The  principall  Superior  and  cheiff 
Master  or  Laird  theroff  was  these  McLeodis  whose  surnames 
are  called  the  Race  and  Clan  of  Toirgill,  alledging  that  they 
came  heire  first  out  of  Denmark  and  Germanie,  of  antiquitie 
and  they  are  verie  ancient  Inhabitants  of  that  Illand  and 
sundrie  other  pairts  and  countries  in  that  pairt  of  Scotland. 
The  principall  Church  in  that  Countrie  is. 

There  are  sundrie  rivers  in  Lewis,  wherein  abundance  of  fish 
are  slaine.  The  name  and  race  of  the  Superiors  of  the  Harie 
and  there  kin  and  friends  are  called  Clantoirmoid  that  is  Clan 
Normond.  These  Clanns  or  races  descendit  of  Normond 
McLeod. 


186          HIGHLANDS— GLASRIE— KNAPTILL 

915.      The  Tarbett  at  the  mouth  of  Loghfyne  the  North- 

east syde  thereoff 

This  following  is  to  be  written  after  A^skeednes 
This  to  be  written  after  Craignes,  there  being  the 
rest  of  the  description  of  Glasrie  and  Knaptill 
and  Kintyre. 

On  the  westsyde  at  Knaptill  syde  there  is  ane  castle  and 
one  church  called  Kilberrie.  From  the  Terbert  upon  the 
westsyde  of  Kintyre  there  is  eight  mylls  and  alsmuch  on  the 
eastsyde  pertaining  to  the  Earles  of  Argyll  since  the  foirfeitting 
of  the  Lord  Mcdonnald  of  the  Illands,  Killmuycoll  is  upone 
the  West,  and  the  castle  of  Skeipness  upon  the  east  that 
makes  the  march  of  the  Earle  of  Argyll s  pairt  of  Kintyre  from 
the  Clandonnalds  pairt.  And  Skeipnes  wes  wont  to  be  a 
dwelling  house  of  the  Lairds  of  the  Illands  of  ancient  This 
pairt  betwixt  the  Terbert  and  Skeipnes  is  called  Borlume  that 
is  to  say,  ane  plane  land  betwixt  two  countries  so  the  length  of 
Kyntire  from  the  Terbert  to  the  Mull  is  fourtie  Mylls  and 
certaine  pairts  some  sex,  eight  or  nyne  Mylls  broad.  The 
North  part  of  it  is  full  of  high  mountains  full  of  hather  and 
certane  glenns  amongst  these  mountains  verie  profitable  for 
cattle  to  feed  in. 

The  Westsyde  of  Kintyre  there  is  verie  pleasant  and  profit- 
able come  lands,  Upon  the  eastsyde  of  it,  there  is  two  Glens 
verie  pleasant  and  profitable  called  Glenarindill  and  Glen- 
saidill  and  there  is  rivers  or  waters  running  throw  thir  two 
Glenns,  and  there  is  abundance  of  salmond  slain  in  these 
waters.  And  there  is  verie  pleasant  fertill  and  profitable 
corne  lands  on  everie  syde  of  these  glens.  And  there  is 
good  woods  in  them.  In  Glensaidill  there  is  ane  ancient 
Monastrie  where  there  was  wont  to  be  ane  Abbott  and 
UG.  Convent  of  friers,  and  of  St.  Bernards  Order.  It  wes  founded 
thrie  hundred  yeares  agoe  be  Donnald  McRannald  Lord  of  the 
Isles  and  these  Countries,  and  dedicate  to  oure  B:  Ladie  so  that 
these  lands  of  Said  ill  are  now  called  Our  Ladies  lands  and  the 
Marqueis  of  Hamiltone  is  Superior  theroff.  eight  mylls  from 
Saidill  upon  the  same  syde  is  the  Logh  of  Kilkerrane,  it  is  two 
mylls  long  and  one  myll  breadth  of  salt  water.  It  is  ane 
verie  sure  and  saifF  harborie  for  shipps  both  great  and  small 


HIGHLANDS— KINTYRE  187 

and  for  all  kynd  of  shippes.  Neither  wind  nor  tempest  can 
doe  them  harme  be  reasone  it  is  compast  round  about  be  the 
Maine  land  on  the  Westsyd  and  on  the  eastsyd  at  the  verie 
mouth  of  the  Logh  is  a  verie  high  Mountaine  called  Illand 
dabar  which  saiffs  and  gairds  the  shipps  from  the  wind  which 
doth  come  on  the  east  Upon  the  southsyde  of  this  Logh. 
There  is  a  Church  which  is  called  Kilkearrane  and  ane  ancient 
castle  which  K.  James  the  fourth- builded.  At  the  end  of  the 
Logh  there  is  a  certaine  village  and  a  new  Castle  which  the 
Earle  of  Argyll  builded  laitlie  and  in  this  Logh  there  is 
abundance  of  all  sort  of  fishes  and  especially  of  herrings  and 
mackrells.  Thrie  mylls  from  the  head  of  this  Logh  there  is  a 
ffresh  water  Logh  of  foure  mylls  of  length,  there  is  abundance 
of  salmond  slaine  in  this  Logh  which  is  called  Loghsainesse, 
LTpon  the  West  syd  of  this  countrie  It  is  verie  plaine  low  and 
pleasant  sandie  ground  nyne  mylls  from  the  Logheid  marches 
the  Maghairmoir  and  the  Logheid.  And  there  is  verie 
faire  pleasant  Cornelands  in  this  glenn.  And  there  is  a  river 
running  throw  this  glenn,  and  abundance  of  salmond  slaine  in 
it,  and  on  everie  syde  of  it,  there  is  faire  corne  lands.  And 
less  then  a  myll  from  the  Maghairmoir  at  the  seasyde  there  is 
ane  ancient  Castle  builded  upon  a  rock  or  craig  called  Duna- 
wardie.  at  the  foot  of  the  water  of  Conglen.  And  eastward  217. 
from  Dunawardie  two  mylls  off'  the  land  there  is  ane  litle 
Illand  of  ane  Myll  length  and  half  ane  myll  breadth  called 
Awin,  which  the  Romans  did  call  in  the  tyme  of  Julius  Caesar, 
Porta  Eosa  Avona.  Upon  the  Landsyde  of  it,  next  to 
Cantyre  is  a  verie  good  harborie.  On  the  east  end  of  it  is  the 
Sheep  Illand  where  there  is  verie  manie  Coneys  and  arrettis. 
The  streame  runns  so  swiftlie  that  no  shipps  can  remaine  near 
it,  except  they  be  within  the  harborie.  In  this  Illand  of  Awin 
there  is  ane  litle  Chappell  and  at  the  syde  of  that  Chappell 
there  is  a  litle  well  or  compass  of  stones  foursquare  of  ten  foot 
length  and  breadth  within.  And  they  say  that  the  bones  of 
certaine  holie  men  that  lived  in  that  Illand  is  buried  within 
that  place.  It  hes  bein  tryed  that  neither  man  nor  beast  that 
doth  goe  within  that  place  will  live  to  ane  yeares  end.  There 
is  in  this  Illand  ane  spring  or  fresh  water  well  called  St.  Ninians 
Well  and  it  doth  recover  severall  men  and  women  which  doeth 


188  HIGHLANDS— KINTYRE— ILLA 

drink  theroff,  to  their  health  againe.  Upone  the  westsyde  of 
Dunawardie  two  mylls  from  it  there  is  a  verie  good  glen  called 
Glenbreagrie,  there  is  fyne  fertyll  and  faire  corne  lands  in  this 
glen  on  everie  syde  of  the  river,  which  runneth  through  the 
glen,  there  is  abundance  of  salmond  fish  slayne  in  this  water. 
And  at  the  foot  of  this  water  west  from  it  beginnes  the  great 
Promontarie  or  Mountaine  at  the  seasyde  called  the  Mull  of 
Kintyre,  it  is  sexteen  mylls  compast  about  that  neither  boatts, 
gallies  nor  shipps  can  land  except  it  be  litle  fishing  boates. 
There  was  abundance  of  deir  in  this  mountaine  of  ancient 
tyme  but  now  there  is  none  to  be  sein  nether  in  this  Moun- 
taine nor  in  the  rest  of  the  mountaines  and  lands  of  Kintyre 
but  foxes  and  Raes  whereoff  there  is  abundance  in  this  countrie 
and  from  the  tope  of  this  Mountaine  of  Mull  one  may  decerne 
518.  the  corne  lands  and  houses  of  Ireland  And  in  Kintyre  there 
is  ten  paorish  Churches  more  then  the  Monastrie  of  Saidill. 
Kintyre  lyes  south  and  North  the  southend  of  it  lyes  towards 
Ireland,  and  the  Northend  toward  Argyll,  Upone  the  eastsyde 
of  it  lyes  the  Illand  of  Arrane.  And  upon  the  westsyde  of  it 
lyes  Ilia.  Twentie  foure  mylls  of  sea  betwixt  Ilia  and  Kintyre. 
And  betwixt  Ilia  and  Kintyre  upon  the  westsyde  lyes  the 
Hands  of  Gigha  being  foure  mylls  of  length  and  ane  myll  of 
Breadth.  Cara  is  a  litle  Illand  scarce  half  a  myll  in  length 
full  of  Coney es.  and  a  litle  Chappell  in  it  belonging  to  Icolm- 
kill.  There  is  abundance  of  fisches  and  selchis  about  this 
Illand  of  Gigha  and  it  is  verie  fertill  of  barley  and  the  most 
pairt  of  it  all  is  corneland.  there  is  ane  church  in  it.  this 
Illand  pertaines  to  the  McDonalds.  Ilia  sexteen  mylls  west 
from  Gigha  of  sea,  It  is  ane  Illand  lyand  south  and  North 
and  upon  the  North  it  borders  with  Jura  and  Collinsa,  upon 
the  South  with  Ireland  being  thrittie  mylls  of  sea  from  Ireland. 
This  Ilia  is  twentie  foure  mylls  in  length  and  sexteen  mylls 
broad.  It  is  divydit  in  thrie  pairts.  The  Largki  and  the  hoo 
is  one  pairt.  the  midlevard  and  the  Harie  is  another.  And 
the  Rhinns  of  Ilia  the  thrid  pairt.  The  castle  of  Dunowaig 
lyes  on  the  eastsyd  of  that  pairt  called  the  Largki.  It  is  ane 
verie  strong  castle  almost  in  the  sea  upone  ane  high  rock  or 
craig.  It  hes  bein  ane  ancient  fortress  but  latelie  builded  with 
castles  and  tours  be  James  McDonnald.  And  there  is  one 


HIGHLANDS— ILLA— TEX  A  189 

litle  hill  neare  to  the  castle,  which  when  the  race  and  principall 
name  of  Clandonnalds  of  that  house  wer  to  decay,  there  was 
before  that  tyme  wont  to  be  heard  in  that  place  the  voice  of  a 
womans  lamentatione  oftymes  both  in  the  Night  and  Day  but 
especiallie  in  the  Night.  One  myll  from  Dunowaig  layes  ane 
litle  Illand  called  Illand  Texa,  And  there  is  a  litle  Chappell.  ; 
North  and  Northeast  from  Dunowaig  along  the  coast  the 
space  of  fyve  or  sex  mylls,  there  is  manie  rocks  Connals  and 
litle  Illand s,  some  of  them  a  quarter  and  some  of  them  half  a 
myll,  Such  as  Illand  Bride,  Illand  Crowie,  Illand  Charnie,  and 
Illand  Wicolworie  that  is  the  Illand  of  Maurice,  and  the 
Illand  of  Corskeir.  Thir  Illands  are  full  of  wyld  fowls,  gray 
geese  and  all  kynd  of  seafowles,  where  they  do  lay  their  Eggs. 
And  it  is  verie  fertill  of  grass  in  these  Illands,  where  the 
Inhabitants  of  the  Countrie  doe  put  their  horses  and  lean 
catle  to  feed  in  wintertyme.  And  all  the  coasts  about  Duno- 
waig there  is  abundance  of  salmond  thereintill,  and  all  other 
seafishes.  This  pairt  of  Ilia  called  the  Largi  and  the  Hoo, 
they  are  two  paorish  churches  called  Kildalton  and  Kilnathan. 
In  the  Hoo  also  there  is  a  great  fortress  called  Dunaynt,  and 
with  litle  or  or  small  expensis  it  might  be  maid  ane  Invincible 
strength.  From  this  Dunaynt  to  Portman  is  the  length  of 
the  Illand  of  Ilia,  alongst  which  it  is  all  hills  and  Mountaines 
full  of  reid  deire,  hares  and  muirfowls  lyand  along  the  eastsyde 
of  Ila.  Westward  from  the  Mountains  declyneing  downward 
to  the  valley  ground  is  the  midle  pairt  of  Ila,  called  the  Harie, 
this  pairt  is  mixt  with  rivers  and  waters,  wherein  there  is 
great  store  of  salmond  fish,  also  good  corne  land  fyne  woods 
and  parks  and  good  grass.  Betwixt  the  lower  pairt  of  the 
Hairie  and  the  Rinnis  there  comes  ane  arme  of  the  sea  from 
the  southsyde  called  Loghnadaill,  sex  mylls  of  length  and  two 
mylls  in  breadth.  It  is  a  fyne  harborie  for  ships,  galley es  and 
boatts.  And  it  is  full  of  all  kynd  of  fishes  and  wyld  sea 
fowles.  Just  opposit  to  Loghnadaill  another  Logh  comes  foure 
myls  within  the  Countrie  from  the  Northsyde  called  Logh- 
cruinord.  it  ebbs  and  flowes  almost  the  one  half  of  it.  And 
there  is  great  store  of  salmond  in  this  Logh,  betwixt  the  head 
of  the  Logh  and  Loghnadaill  there  is  but  one  myll  of  ground  or 
land,  which  almost  makes  the  Rinnis  of  Ila  to  be  ane  Illand. 


190  HIGHLANDS— ILLA 

Att  the  end  of  this  Loghgruineord  in  the  yeare  of  God  1597, 
the  fourteenth  of  August  There  was  a  battell  foughten  betwixt 
Sir  James  McDonald  and  Sir  Laughlan  Mclean  of  Duard, 
wherin  Sir  Laughlane  and  thirteenscore  of  his  men  were 
killed  and  Sir  James  deidlie  shot  with  ane  arrow  and  twentic 
four  of  his  men  killed,  and  thriescoir  hurt  all  with  arrowes. 
Sir  James  being  accompanied  with  two  hundred  men  and  Sir 
Laughlane  haveing  above  four  hundreth.  The  Contraversie 
was  about  the  Rhiims  of  Ila,  Sir  Laughlane  alleadgeing  ane 
new  lease  and  right  be  the  Kings  Controller  the  Lord  of 
Scone  and  Sir  James  alleadging  ancient  right,  title  and  posses- 
sioune  and  loath  to  quarrell  with  the  said  Sir  Laughlane  being 
his  Uncle,  did  offer,  before  the  battle  was  foughten,  to  submitt 
both  their  rights  to  the  King  and  eight  of  the  Lords  of 
Sessioune,  which  being  refused  by  Sir  Laughlane,  Sir  James 
secondlie  offered  the  sight  of  their  ffriends  and  Neighboures  of 
eight  of  the  principal!  men  of  the  Illes.  Sir  Laughlane  re- 
plyed  and  said  that  which  he  hade  gotten  once  right  of,  he 
would  not  put  it  in  question.  Last  of  all  Sir  James  offered 
that  eight  of  his  friends  that  were  present  there  and  alse 
manie  of  Mcleans  should  meet  betwixt  the  armies  to  decerne  to 
whome  those  lands  of  the  Rinnis  were  most  kindlie  and  to 
decerne  presentlie  to  which  both  the  pairties  should  be  sworne 
be  word  and  writt  to  byde  by  their  sentence.  Which  Sir 
Laughlane  refuised  and  said  that  he  should  have  present 
possessione  in  the  Rhinnies  or  that  his  buriall  grave  should 
be  there  ere  he  left  the  ground,  which  fell  out  so  as  he  said, 
for  upon  the  morrow  efter,  his  bodie  or  Corps  were  buried 
with  eight  of  his  speciall  men  in  the  Church  of  Kilchonan 
21.  being  the  Principall  Church  of  the  Rinnesof  Ila,  It  is  thought 
that  the  reasone  wherfore  Sir  Laughland  did  refuse  these 
offers,  was  that  the  speciall  Tennants  of  the  Rinnes  come  to 
him  to  the  field  and  told  that  Sir  James  was  but  ane  small 
number  of  two  hundreth  men,  so  that  if  he  wold  not  be  slack 
in  his  demands  they  wold  yeeld  to  give  him  possession  of  the 
saids  lands.  There  was  ane  old  prophecie  that  one  Mcleane 
should  be  slaine  there  at  the  head  of  Loghgruineord  which  wes 
never  fulfilled  till  this  tyme. 

Concerning  this  pairt  of  Ilia  which  is  called  the  Rhinns  is 


HIGHLANDS— ILLA— JURA  191 

verie  fertill  of  comes  and  great  store  and  abundance  of  fish. 
There  is  thrie  Churches  in  this  Rinnes,  of  which  there  are  two 
paorish  Churches,  Kilcherran  and  Kilchonan.  There  is  two 
litle  Illands  at  the  southend  of  the  Rinns  called  Illand  Oursa 
and  Illand  Chaymie,  where  some  Hermitts  were  accustomed  to 
dwell.  There  is  at  the  Northend  of  the  Rhinnis  there  is  a 
peice  of  Land  of  thrie  mylls  of  lenth  of  plaine  sandie  ground 
called  Ardnewft'  There  is  one  litle  Illand  oft'  the  poynt  of  this 
Ardnewff  called  Illand  Neiff  betwixt  Ardneuft'and  Kilchoman. 
There  is  one  fresh  water  Logh  called  Loghgorme,  wherin 
ther  was  ane  ancient  castle  builded  by  Mclean  of  Ardnamur- 
(juhan  and  casten  doune  be  Angus  McDonald  Lord  of  Kintyre. 
And  the  cause  theroff  was  that  the  upholding  of  it  was  charge- 
able to  the  tenants  of  the  Countrie.  There  is  other  manic 
fresh  water  Loghes  in  Ila  full  of  great  and  bigg  trowts  and 
fresh  water  eels.  There  is  one  Logh  in  a  mountaine  in  a 
Countrie  called  Beanlargi  which  is  called  Loghnabreak  which 
is  by  interpretatione  the  trowt  Logh.  There  is  verie  manie 
trouts  in  that  Logh  and  neither  spring  water  running  nor  sein 
goeing  into  that  Logh,  nor  comeing  out  of  it.  Upon  the 
Northeast  of  Ila,  there  is  another  Illand  twentie  foure  myles  in 
lenth  and  sex  mylls  of  breadth.  The  half  of  it  sometime 
pertaining  to  the  Clandonnalds  as  Ila,  the  other  half  of  it  per- 
taining to  the  Clanlein.  There  is  a  Logh  which  divyds  the 
Clandonalds  pairt  of  this  Illand  of  Jura  from  the  Clanleins 
parte  theroff  called  Loghterbert  it  is  ane  arme  of  the  sea  that  82- 
comes  from  the  West  being  full  of  salmond  fish,  Oysters 
Cockles  mussells.  And  all  the  corne  lands  of  Jura  lyes  on  the 
east  syde  except  a  pairt  of  the  south  of  it  which  pertained  to 
the  Clandonald  wherin  there  is  verie  good  cornelands  and  all 
the  Mountaines  and  woods  and  verie  manie  deir  and  wyld 
foull.  There  will  be  monstrous  bigg  adders  or  serpents  sein  in 
this  Countrey  or  Illand  of  Jura,  Betwixt  Ilia  and  Jura  there 
are  two  Illands  which  are  called  Freigh  Illand  and  Illand 
Cravie.  There  is  the  ground  of  ane  old  castle  in  that  Island 
Freigh.  There  is  another  Illand  upon  the  eastsyde  of  Jura 
which  is  called  Illandnagowre  which  is  by  interpretation  the 
goatt  Illand.  Betwixt  it  and  the  land  there  is  a  good  harbourie 
both  for  bigg  shipps  and  small.  Upone  the  westsyde  above 


192  HIGHLANDS— JURA— DUNBARTON 

the  sea  there  is  a  number  of  great  Coves  that  is  within  the 
same  alse  whyte  as  if  they  wer  fylled  and  laid  with  Lyme,  and 
are  lyk  vaults  of  Stone  and  lyme.  And  the  King  and  all  his 
howshold  wold  come  therintill,  they  wold  gett  lodgeing  and 
chambers  therin.  And  in  tyme  of  stormie  weather  and  in 
tyme  of  great  tempest  of  snow  the  deir  doth  lodge  in  these 
Coves.  The  McDonalds  and  the  Mcleans  in  ancient  tyme, 
when  they  wer  wont  to  come  to  Jura  to  hunt,  they  did  lodge 
in  these  Coves  with  their  companies. 

Betwixt  Ilia  and  Jura  runns  that  most  dangerous  channell 
called  the  Sound  of  Ila,  It  is  neare  ten  mylls  of  length  and 
two  mylls  of  breadth.  Upon  the  Northend  of  Jura  is  the 
Illand  of  Scorba  and  it  is  all  one  high  Mountains.  There  is 
but  two  tounes  of  corne  land  in  it.  Betwixt  it  and  Jura  runns 
the  most  dangerous  gulff  called  Coirrabreaggan.  there  can 
neither  shipps  gallies  nor  boatts  goe  nor  sail!  between  these 
two  Hands  except  it  be  in  ane  quarter  of  ane  hour  in  respect 
of  the  strong  streame  of  this  gulff,  Nor  goe  throw  the  samen 
unless  it  be  ebbing  or  full  sea.  Direct  Lyand  North  from  Ilia 
eight  mylles  of  sea  Lyes  the  Illands  of  Orinsa  and  Collinsa  In 
Orinsa  there  is  a  verie  fyne  Monastrie  which  was  builded  by 
Saint  Columb.  wherin  there  was  Prioris  and  Schenons.  It  is  a 
plaine  Illand  of  Corneland  The  sea  ebbs  and  Howes  betwixt 
Olinsa  and  Corinsa.  Corinsa  is  sex  mylls  in  length  and  thrie 
mylls  in  breadth. 


223.  A  SHORT  DESCRIPTION  of  DUNBARTON  from 
loose  sheets  unbound,  dated  of  Lochlow- 
mond. 

This  Countrey  is  bounded  on  the  East  with  Clydsdaill  and 
Stirlingshyr  to  the  south  with  the  river  of  Clyde  all  along  the 
firth,  to  the  Western  with  the  Shy  re  of  Argyle  and  to  the 
north  with  Pearth  and  pairts  of  Stirling.  The  Baronies  of 
Lenzie  are  alsoe  reconed  in  the  Shyr  of  Dunbartoun,  tho 
Stirling  interveens  some  myles,  is  the  propertie  of  the  Earls  of 
Vigtoun  most  pairt,  and  make  up  two  paroches  vidz.  the 
Easter  and  Wester  Lenzies  alias  the  paroches  of  Kirkintilloch 


DUNBARTON  193 

and  Cumbernald  which  runs  to  the  bridge  of  Bony,  where  it 
borders  upon  West  Lothian  to  the  East  Clydsdaill  to  the 
South  Stirling  upon  the  West  and  North.  This  part  of  the 
Country  of  Uunbartoun  lying  near  to  Lanrick  shyre  and  West 
Lothian,  partakes  somewhat  both  of  the  fertility  and  pleasure 
of  these  Countrys.  It  belonged  antiently  to  the  Cumings  and 
upon  their  forfaulture,  was  given  to  the  Fleemings.  Sir  Mal- 
colme  Fleeming  was  a  constant  companion  with  the  renouned 
King  Robert  Bruce  and  from  that  King  obtained  the  baronie 
of  Leinzie.  Sir  Malcolme  Fleming  was  created  Earle  of  Wig- 
toun  by  King  David  Bruce  in  anno  1354,  as  a  very  honourable 
patent  yet  extant  testifies.  This  family  failed  in  the  person 
of  Tho.  Fleming  Earle  of  Vigtoun  grandchild  of  Malcolme 
formerly  mentioned,  whose  Estate  came  to  the  Douglasses  and 
he  disponed  to  Sir  Malcolme  Fleming  of  Biggar  his  Cousin  the 
lands  and  Barrony  of  Leinzie  in  anno  .  Sir  Malcolme 

Fleming  was  killed  in  Edr  Castle  with  the  Earle  Douglass 
1440.  Sir  Robert  Fleming  of  Biggar  was  created  Lord  Flem- 
ing by  K.  Ja:  the  £d  about  1445.  and  his  successour  John  Lord 
Fleming  1606  Earle  of  Wigtoun. 

In  Lenzie  is  alsoe  Gartshore  an  antient  family  Chief  of  that 
surname,  whose  posterity  enjoy  the  same.  Alexr  Gartshore  is 
now  of  that  Ilk 

In  Lenzie  is  also  the  Barony  of  Bonheath  with  the  tour  and 
castle,  which  of  a  long  time  hath  been  possessed  by  the  family 
of  Boyd  and  in  K:  Ja:  the  5th9  time,  given  a  younger  son  of 
the  family  butt  returning  again  was  lately  sold  by  William 
Earle  of  Kilmarnock  to  Sir  Ard  Hamilton  of  Roshall. 

This  Country  is  all  in  the  Diocese  of  Glasgow  and  makes  up  884. 
one  Presbetry  consisting  of  Kirks  vidz.  Kilpatrick 

Easter  and  Wester,  Dunbartoun,  Bonill,  Buchanan,  Luss, 
Arochar,  (lately  dissolved  from  Luss)  Cardross,  Row,  Rosneath. 
Kilmarenock. 

The  principall  rivers  are  Earn,  Kelving  which  heath  its  rise 
about  Kilsyth  and  dividing  Dunbartonshyre  from  Stirling 
and  Lanrick  to  the  east,  empties  itself  into  Clyde  att  Partick. 

Liven  river  heath  its  rise  from  Lochlomond  and  heath  its 
course  throw  the  Country  for  5  myles  till  it  emptie  itself  into 
Clyde  at  the  rock  and  castle  of  Dunbartoun.  In  Liven  is 

VOL.  n.  N 


194  DUNBARTON 

plenty  of  excellent  salmond  and  other  fishes  common  in  such 
rivers. 

In  this  Country  is  the  Gairloch  about  a  mile  broad,  and 
runs  up  the  Country  some  5  myles  and  is  an  arme  of  the  sea 
and  divides  the  Country  of  Leven  (commonly  the  Isle  above 
Leven,)  from  Rosneth,  which  makes  it  very  near  an  Isle  by 
Lochloumond  to  the  North  Leven  to  the  East.  Clyde  to  the 
South  and  this  to  the  West,  and  Rosneth  is  made  also  an 
Island  by  the  Gairloch  to  the  East,  Clyde  to  the  South  and 
the  Helly  Loch  to  the  West,  and  Lochlomond  to  the  North. 

There  is  no  toun  of  any  consideration  save  the  royall 
burough  of  Dunbartoun. 

A  description  of  the  severall  paroches  in  their  order 
beginning  at  the  east  end  of  this  shyre,  The  first  we  notice 
is  Kilpatrick  which  was  antiently  all  in  one  paroch  but 
divided  into  two  distinguished  by  the  caster  and  wester  Kil- 
patrick's.  The  whole  was  antiently  a  pairt  of  the  Abbacie  of 
Paslay  mortiefied  by  the  Earles  of  Lennox  and  erected  in  a 
regality,  was  sold  by  the  Earle  of  Abercorne  to  Sir  John 
Hamiltoun  of  Orbestoun  and  lately  to  the  Lord  Blantyre. 

In  Kilpatrick  are  the  seatts  of  severall  Antient  families  as 
the  Logans  of  Balvie  a  son  of  the  antient  Logans  of  Restalrig. 
The  heretable  bailiary  of  the  regality  of  Dunbartoun  be- 
longed to  this  family  and  upon  their  failing  came  to  the 
family  of  Ardincaple :  came  afterward  to  the  Colquhouns  from 
them  to  one  Sanderson  Castle  Sanderson  in  Ireland  who  heath 
lately  sold  Balvie  to  Robert  Campbell  Writer  in  Edr.  below 
Balvie  is  Mains  an  antient  possession  of  the  Douglasses 
discended  of  Nicoll  Duglass  a  younger  brother  of  the  family 
of  Dalkeith  in  K.  Robert  the  3ds  time,  and  produced  sevrall 
brave  gentlmen  younger  sons  of  the  family  of  Sir  Robert 
Douglass  of  Spott  Mr  of  horses  to  Prince  Henry  and  created 
Viscount  Belhaven.  died  without  succession,  leaving  his  Estate 
to  Sir  Archbald  Douglass  of  Spott  and  Sir  Robert  Douglass 
of  Bleckerstoun  his  nephews  by  Sir  Alexr  Douglass  of  Mains. 
The  lands  of  Mains  were  sold  by  these  Douglasses  to  the 
Douglasses  of  Keystoun  whose  successour  and  representative 
is  James  Douglass  now  of  Mains. 

Hard   by   Mains   is   Kilmardiny,   which    belonged    to   the 


DUNBARTON  195 

Colquhoims  a  branch  of  the  antient  family  of  Luss  but  are 
now  decayed  and  belongs  to  Walter  Graham  who  is  now  of 
Kilmardiny.  Below  Mains  is  Garscubo  antiently  a  pairt  of 
the  Lardship  of  Luss  sold  by  Sir  John  Colquhoun  late  of 
Luss  to  John  Campbell  of  Succoth,  of  the  house  of  Arkin- 
glass,  whose  son  and  heir  is  William  Campbell,  now  of 
Succoth  deputy  Governour  of  Dunbartoun.  Upon  the  same 
river  of  Kelvine  is  pleasantly  situate  Killermont,  belonged  to 
the  Starks  of  the  house  of  Achinwooll,  came  afterward  to 
James  Hunter  late  of  Murrays,  the  same  way  lately  to  John 
Forbess  of  Knapernie  brother  of  Sir  Samuell  Forbess  of 
Foverane  in  Aberdeenshire  Baronett 

In  Easter  Kilpatrick  is  also  Dugalstoun  the  possessioun  of 
John  Graham,  to  whom  it  gives  designation,  below  Dugal- 
stoun is  Cloberhill  a  pairt  of  the  Lop  of  Drumray,  which 
barony  of  Drumray  belonged  to  the  Livestouns  and  by 
marriage  came  to  Ja :  Hamiltoun  of  Finnart  with  Margaret 
Livestoun,  heiress  of  Easter  Weems  and  Drumray  which  last 
he  exchanged  with  Laurence  Craufurd  of  Kilbirny  for  the 
barrony  of  Crawfurd  John  in  Clydsdaill  in  the  year  1528. 
and  to  this  day  continues  in  the  possession  of  the  family  of 
Kilbirny  and  gives  title  of  Lord  to  the  right  honourable . 
Patrick  Viscount  of  Garnock.*  The  barony  of  Drumray 
comprehends  the  lands  of  Drumray,  Cloberhill,  Hutchieston 
Law,  Drumchappell  and  Knightswood.  The  Viscount  of  sue. 
Garnock  hath  the  propertie  of  most,  and  superiority  of  the 
whole.  The  lands  of  Cloberhill  were  feued  by  Hew  Craufurd 
of  Kilbirny,  to  Hew  Crauford  of  Knightswood  of  the  house 
of  Spangoe,  whose  posterity  yett  Injoy  the  same. 

Huchieston  was  acquerd  by  the  Logans  of  Balvie  and  from 
them  to  the  Hamiltouns  of  Barns.  James  Hamiltoun  is  now 
of  Hutchieston  a  brother  of  Barns.  Law  alsoe  a  pairt  of  Lp 
of  Drumray  was  aquir'd  from  Hugh  Craufurd  of  Kilbirny.  by 
Wm  Stirling  of  Gloratt  and  given  in  patrimony  to  Andrew 
Stirling  of  Portnallan  also  in  this  shyre.  whose  lineall  succes- 
sour  is  John  Stirling  of  Law.  This  pairt  of  the  shyre  of 
Lennox  is  bordered  with  Renfrew  about  two  myles.  which  is. 


*  1708  to  1735.     [Marginal  note  in  MS.— ED.] 


196  DUNBARTON 

only  that  part  of  Renfrew  upon  the  northsyde  of  Clyde.  In 
Kilpatrick  alsoe  is  Cochnay  which  was  a  pairt  of  the  Lop.  of 
Paslay  and  given  to  a  younger  son  of  the  house  of  Abercorne 
from  whom  that  with  the  lands  of  Barns  came  by  acquisition 
to  Claud  Hamiltoun  a  son  of  the  house  of  Raploch.  whose 
successour  is  Claud  Hamiltoun  of  Barns. 

Below  the  Barns  the  Country  of  Lennox  or  shyre  of  Dun- 
barton  lyeth  along  the  bank  of  Clyde,  upon  which  is  pleasantly 
situate.  Buquhanran  a  pleasant  dwelling  of  the  barrens  of 
Duntreath.  below  which  is  the  Clachan  of  Kilpatrick,  where 
is  a  paroch  church,  below  Kilpatrick  upon  the  very  shore  is 
the  castle  of  Dunglass,  the  Chief  Messuage  of  the  barony  of 
Colquhon,  which  hath  been  of  long  time  possessed  by  the 
family  of  Luss,  who  I  find  from  many  authenick  documents, 
were  promiscously  designed  Colquhoun  of  that  ilk  or  of  Luss. 
This  is  one  of  the  antientest  families  in  Scotland  and  had 
ample  possessions  in  this  country  and  a  considerable  Jurisdic- 
tion. This  family  were  first  baronet  in  the  person  of  Sir 
Alexander  Colquhoun  of  Luss  in  1625,  whose  great  grand- 
child is  Sir  Humphray  Colquhoun  of  Luss.  This  Barrony 
belongs  in  property  to  Luss.  Above  Dunglass  is  a  convenient 
227.  litle  new  house  lately  built  by  John  Colquhoun  of  Achintorly 
whose  daughter  and  sole  heiress  is  married  to  Captain  James 
Colloquhoun  of  the  family  of  Luss.  hard  by  Achintorly  is 
the  hill  of  Dunbuck  which  ends  a  vast  ridge  of  mountains 
running  a  great  way  throw  this  Country  to  the  eastward, 
about  this  end  the  wall  built  by  the  Romans  extending  from 
Abercorne  to  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  the  tract  wherof  in  this  shyre 
in  caster  Kilpatrick  is  observable  some  myles  together.  There 
are  severall  stones  digged  up  by  the  country  people  with 
Inscription  which  by  the  Heritours  of  the  ground  were  given 
in  present  to  the  Colledge  of  Glasgow.  A  myle  below  Dun- 
buck  we  have  the  castle  and  fort  of  Dunbartoun  situate  upon 
Clyde  at  the  Influx  of  Leven  into  that  river  and  is  fortified 
admirably  weel  by  nature  and  by  art  tolerably,  its  situate 
upon  a  plain  ground  a  myle  every  way  from  any  hills,  it's 
commanded  by  a  Captain  or  Governour  a  Lieutenant  and 
Deputy  Governour  and  an  Ensign.  It  was  surprized  by 
Captain  Thomas  Crawfurd  of  Jordanhill  when  held  out  by 


DUNBARTON  197 

John  Lord  Fleming  for  the  Interest  of  Queen  Mary  in  1571. 
About  half  a  myle  from  the  Castle  is  the  toun  of  Dunbarton 
most  pleasantly  situate  upon  the  banks  of  Leven.  a  burgh 
royal),  and  once  a  place  of  considerable  trade  but  of  late  is 
much  in  decay.  The  run  of  Leven  tide  flows  up  Leven  above 
the  toune  of  Dunbartoun  and  can  carrie  up  ships  to  the 
harbour  of  some  burden.  There  was  also  a  Collegiate 
Church  founded  by  the  Countess  of  Lennox,  is  now  entirely 
demolished,  nothing  remaining  of  the  fabrick  save  one  of  the 
gates  which  is  very  large  and  vaulted  above  Dunbartoun,  to 
the  north  pleasantly  situate,  upon  the  eastsyde  of  Leven  is  the 
house  of  Kirkmichall  which  was  an  old  possession  of  the 
Semples  of  Fulwood  a  family  of  good  account  in  this  shyre 
and  possessed  of  a  plentiful!  fortune.  John  Semple  late  of 
Fulwood  sold  the  lands  of  Kirkmichell  to  Wm  Earle  of  Dun- 
donald  and  is  now  the  propertie  of  Mr  Wm  Cochran  of 
Kilmaranock,  which  barrony  of  Kilmarenock  was  antiently 
one  of  the  duelling  places  of  the  family  of  Dennestoun, 
which  by  Janet  one  of  the  daughters  and  Coheiresses  of  Sir 
Robert  Denniestoun  of  that  Ilk,  came  to  Sir  William  Cunning- 
hame  of  Kilmares  ancestour  of  the  family  of  Glencairn,  which 
came  afterward  to  the  Dukes  of  Lennox  and  acquired  lately 
by  Wm  Earle  of  Dundonald  and  given  in  patrimony  to  Mr  Wm 
Cochran  his  grandchild,  to  whom  it  gives  designation  and  to 
whom  much  of  the  paroch  of  Kilmaronock  belongs  in 
property. 

Above  the  barrony  of  Kirkmichell  upon  Leven  is  situate 
the  house  and  paroch  church  of  Bonnill,  which  belongs  and 
gives  designation  to  Sir  James  Smollett  of  Bonnill.  Above 
the  paroch  of  Bonnill  upon  the  south  and  Eastsyde  of  Loch- 
lomond  is  most  pleasantly  situate  the  paroch  of  Buchanan 
which  antiently  gave  designation  to  an  antient  family  of  the 
same  name,  who  are  considerable  in  the  reign  of  King  Robert 
Bruce,  but  lately  failed  in  the  person  of  Sir  John  Buchanan 
of  that  Ilk  from  whom  that  Estate  came  to  James  late 
Marquess  of  Mont  rose 

Having  gone  throw  slightly  the  shire  of  Dunbarton  upon 
the  Eastsyde  of  this  Countrey  to  the  east  of  the  river  Leven. 
I  now  come  to  that  Countrey  above  Levein  commonly  called 


198  DUNBARTON 

the  Isle  above  Levein,  which  is  upon  the  shore  a  most  pleasant 
and  fertill  country,  to  the  north  of  this  Country  its  very 
mountainous,  toward  Glenfroon  and  Rosdoe  and  the  Countrey 
of  Arrochar,  which  is  excessively  mountaneous.  Upon  the 
firth  of  Clyde  below  Dunbartoun  is  the  tour  of  Airdoch 
the  antient  dwelling  place  and  designation  of  the  Bunteins 
Chieff  of  that  name,  Weel  planted  above  Airdoch  is  Kiper- 
minehoch  the  possession  of  Humphray  Noble  descended  of  the 
Nobles  of  Ardardan.  two  myles  to  the  Westert  lyes  the 
barony  of  Kilmahew,  which  hath  been  for  many  ages  possessd 
by  a  respectfull  family  of  the  Napiers  whose  representative  is 
George  Napier  now  of  Kilmahew  son  and  heir  of  Margaret 
Napier  daughter  and  heiress  of  John  Napier  of  Kilmahcu 
married  Patrick  Maxwell  of  Newark  by  whom  he  had  George 
Napier,  formerly  mentioned  now  of  Kilmahew.  Hard  by  Kil- 
mahew is  Mildevein  the  possession  of  the  Bunteins  a  branch 
of  the  house  of  Airdoch.  Robert  Buntein  is  now  of  Mil- 
devin.  below  Kilmaheu  upon  the  shore  is  situate  Jeilstoun 
which  also  belonges  to  John  Buntein  descended  of  Ardoch. 
hard  by  Jeilstoun  is  Drumhead  and  belongs  to  Andrew 
Buchanan  a  Cadett  of  Drumiekill.  below  this  upon  the 
shore  is  most  pleasantly  the  hill  of  Ardmore  upon  a  rising- 
ground  weel  planted  and  hes  a  most  agreable  prospect  many 
myles  of  the  river  of  Clyde,  hes  belonged  of  a  long  time  to 
an  antient  family  of  the  Nobles  Chieff'  of  that  name,  who  ar 
also  proprietours  of  Ardardan.  hard  by  William  Noble  is  now 
of  ferme.  Above  Ardardan  is  Keppoch  weel  planted,  the  seatt 
of  Thomas  The  propriatour  from  which  he  takes 

designation.  To  the  northert  of  Keppoch  is  the  tour  of  Dar- 
lieth  which  belonged  antiently  to  propriatours  of  the  same 
surname  but  about  1670  acquired  by  John  Zuill.  whose  grand- 
child is  Thomas  Zuill  of  Darlieth  Chief  of  that  name,  above 
Darlieth  is  the  tour  of  Banochran,  antiently  belonged  to  the 
family  of  Luss  and  from  the  Colquhouns  acquird  by  Mr  James 
Donaldson  minister  att  Dunbartoun.  Upon  the  shore  is 
pleasantly  situate  the  dwelling  and  designation 

of  a  branch  of  the  family  of  the  Denniestouns  of  that  ilk, 
and  is  now  the  representative  of  that  family,  have  been 
possessed  of  the  lands  of  Campsasken  with  these  of  Congrain 


DUNBARTON  199 

from  whence  they  have  taken  designation     John  Denestoun 
younger  of  Congrain  is  the  lineall  heir  of  that  family. 

Lower  upon  the  firth  of  Clyde  is  Ardincaple  antiently 
possessed  by  a  family  of  the  same  surname,  but  about  the 
reign  of  King  James  the  3d  from  Aulay  Ardincaple  of  that 
Ilk.  the  name  of  Mc Aulay  came  to  be  the  surname  of  this 
antient  family  whose  successour  is  Archbald  McAulay  of 
Ardincaple.  Upon  the  northsyde  of  the  Gairloch  above 
Ardincaple  is  the  mines  of  the  old  Castle  of  Faslain  the 
antient  dwelling  place  of  the  old  Earles  of  Lennox  as  the 
tradition  of  that  countrey  bears,  hard  by  is  Glenfroon  famous 
for  the  scirmish  betwixt  the  McGregors  who  ravadged  this 
Countrey  in  1603.  where  the  Colquhouns  and  their  friends  were 
defeat  and  many  of  the  Gentry  in  this  nighbourhead  killed. 

Above  this  is  the  high  Country  of  the  Arrochar  which  is  230. 
the  outmost  Confynes  of  this  Country  and  bordering  upon 
Couall.  It  belongs  to  the  Laird  of  McFarlane  of  Arochar  alias 
of  that  Ilk,  who  claim  the  honour  to  be  descended  of  Parlane 
a  younger  son  of  the  antient  Earles  of  Lennox,  whose  armes 
this  family  carried  without  any  distinction,  and  say  that  their 
sirname  is  from  their  predecesours  name  Parlane  and  so 
McFarlane. 

Below  Arochar  upon  the  northsyde  of  the  Isle  above  Leven  is 
most  pleasantly  situate  Rossdoe  the  habitation  of  Barrons  of 
Luss,  who  I  find,  have  promiscously  designed  themselfis  of  that 
Ilk  or  of  Luss  and  said  by  some  to  be  descended  of  a  son  of 
the  antient  family  of  Lennox  but  they  refuse  this  Origin  of 
late,  they  are  and  have  bein  in  all  tymes  a  family  of  good 
account  and  ever  loyally  disposed  to  their  soverain  and  his 
intrest.  Sir  Humphray  Colquhoun  of  Luss  Baronet  the  heir 
and  representative  of  this  antient  family 

Rosneth  which  is  the  furthest  Westpart  of  this  Shyre  and 
is  almost  Inclosed  by  water  upon  all  corners  save  a  litle  at  the 
Gairlochhead.  Its  antient  proprietour  ar  the  Campbells  much 
of  it  belonged  once  to  Arkinglass  but  was  acquered  by  Arch- 
bald  Earle  of  Argyle  from  Sir  John  Campbell  of  Arkinglass  in 
King  James  the  6ths  time.  The  family  of  Argyle  have  heir  a 
good  house  most  pleasantly  situate  upon  a  poynt  called  the 
Ross,  where  they  have  good  planting  and  abundance  of  con- 


200  DUNBARTON 

veniency  for  good  gardens  and  orchards.  Below  Rosneth  house 
is  the  paroch  church  of  Rosneth,  which  antiently  belonged  to 
the  Abbacy  of  Paslay,  hard  by  the  Church  is  the  house  of 
Camsaill  the  dwelling  place  of  the  Campbells  of  Carrick  a 
branch  of  the  Campbells  of  Arkinglass.  there  is  in  Rosneth 
severall  other  smaller  heritours  of  less  account. 
Off  Lochloumond 


SSL       ADDENDA  to  DUNBARTOUN  SHYRE 

Upon  the  water  of  Enrick  Drummiekill  the  possession  of 
Archbald  Buchanan  representative  of  an  antient  family  of  the 
Buchanans  which  produced  the  Buchanans  of  Moss  of  which 
family  was  Mr  Geo.  Buchanan  our  historian. 

Balgair  which  belongs  to  the  Galbraiths,  Glens  belonged  to 
the  Colquhouns  of  the  house  of  Luss. 

bordering  on  Clydsdaill. 

Gartscubo  which  belongs  to  William  Campbell  of  Succoth. 
Boghouse,  which  belongs  to  the  Viscount  of  Garnock  and  is  a 
pairt  of  the  Lop  of  Drumray. 

Dalmure  upon  Clyde  belonged  to  the  Spreuls  of  Loudoun 
and  now  to  the  Earle  of  Dundonald.  Kilbovie  a  feu  of  the 
Laird  of  Bairns  and  belongs  to  wealthy  feuers.  Achintoshau 
situate  upon  the  shore  belongs  to  propriatours  of  the  name  of 
Hamiltoun  Achinkick  a  litle  country  place  holding  of  Barn, 
Duntochir  hard  by  Kilpatrick  Cochnae  which  belonged  to  the 
Hamiltouns  a  branch  of  Abercorn  and  belonges  now  to 
Hamiltouns  of  Barns,  hes  a  good  house  and  weel  planted. 
Miltoun  of  Colquhoun  a  few  of  the  Laird  of  Luss.  Midleton 
a  pairt  of  the  barony  of  Colquhoon  and  belonged  to  one 
Colquhoon.  Stonyflat  belongs  to  Sir  James  Smolat  of  Bon- 
nill.  Chapelton  belongs  to  heretours  of  the  name  of  Watson 
Corslett  belongs  to  one  Williamson,  Noblestoun  which  be- 
longed to  the  Nobles.  Tylleychuin  which  is  upon  Leven,  and 
belonged  to  Humfray  Colquheon  now  of  Tilyquhyn  a  brothers 
son  of  Luss.  Dalquhirn  which  belonged  to  the  Dennestoun.s, 
then  to  the  Elemings  and  now  to  Sir  James  Smollat  of  Bonill. 


RENFREWSHYRE  201 

A  DESCRIPTION  of  RENFREWSHYRE  from  232. 
some  loose  unbound  sheets. 

This  Countrey  antiently  a  pairt  of  the  shirefdome  of  Clyds^- 
daill  was  the  patrimony  of  the  Great  Stewarts  of  Scotland  and 
upon  the  succession  of  K  Robert  the  3d  to  the  Crown  Erected 
in  a  shirefdom  in  the  fourteen  year  of  his  reign  1404  in 
favours  of  James,  Prince  and  Stewart  of  Scotland  his  son.  The 
family  of  Semple  were  hereditary  shirefs  which  they  Injoyed 
till  Hugh  Lord  Semple  sold  the  shirefship  in  1636.  to  Bryce 
Semple  of  Cathcart  who  afterward  sold  the  same  to  the  Lady 
Ross. 

It  is  bounded  on  the  East  with  the  shirefdome  of  Lanrick. 
On  the  North  with  the  Countrie  of  Lennox  seperate  by  the 
River  Clyde  and  lyes  all  upon  the  South  syde  of  that  river 
save  the  lands  of  Jordanhill,  Scotstoun  and  Blairthill  with 
their  pertinents,  litie  above  a  mile  in  Lenth  and  about  a 
mile  broad  and  is  a  part  of  the  parochin  of  Renfrew, 
and  upon  the  lower  pairt  of  this  Country  to  the  West 
opposite  to  the  shire  of  Argyle  to  the  West.  South  all 
bounded  by  the  Bailiary  of  Cuninghame,  Sherifdom  of  Air. 
The  rivers  of  most  note  ar  White  Cart  which  hath  its  rise 
above  the  head  of  the  paroch  of  Egilsham,  upon  which 
stands  first  the  castle  of  Punoon  the  antient  seat  of  the  Mont- 
gomeries.  Lower  upon  the  same  river  stands  the  castle  and 
Barony  of  Cathcart  the  Inheritance  of  antient  barons  of  the 
same  surname  from  whom  in  1547  it  came  to  the  Semples. 
then  we  have  Pollock  and  Pollockshaws  a  Clachan  at  which 
ther  is  a  bridge  of  two  Arches  over  the  river,  the  possession  of 
a  very  antient  family  of  the  Maxwells  descended  of  Carlawrock 
in  the  reign  of  K.  Alexr  the  3d  and  then  upon  the  same  river 
we  meet  with  Castle  of  Cruxtoun,  pleasantly  situate  in  a  pretty 
rising  ground  and  overlooks  most  of  the  Countrey.  The  seat 
of  the  Stewarts  Lords  of  Darnly  not  far  descended  of  Allan 
Stewart  of  Dregorn  son  of  Sir  John  Stewart  of  Bonkle  which 
family  still  florished  more  and  more  till  at  last  it  produced 
many  noble  branches,  hard  by  is  Cardonald  an  antient  Inheri-  833. 
tance  of  the  branch  of  the  Stewarts  of  Darnly  and  Cruxtoun 
and  a  litle  to  the  southward  lyes  Raiss  the  antient  possession 


202  RENFREWSHYRE 

of  Alexr  Stewart  a  son  of  Darnly,  from  whom  issued  the 
Stewarts  of  Halrig.  Lower  upon  the  same  river  of  Cart  plea- 
santly stands  Halkhead  the  possession  of  the  barons  Ross  of 
Haukhead.  derive  their  descent  from  Robert  Ross  of  Wark  in 
the  reign  of  K  Wm  the  Lyon  Were  barons  of  great  Estate  and 
account  till  Sir  John  Ross  was  created  Lord  by  K  Ja  the  4th 
1492.  Below  which,  pleasanly  situate  upom  the  same  Cart 
stands  the  tour  of  Whiteford,  qch  gives  title  to  an  antient 
family  of  the  same  surname  now  decayed  To  the  Northert 
of  which  Lyes  the  lands  and  barony  of  Ralstoun  (a  family  of 
good  note  in  this  Countrey  from  the  reign  of  K.  Alexr  the  2d) 
with  pleasant  woods.  Near  to  which  upon  Cart  stands  the 
Monastry  of  Pasley  founded  by  Alexr  High  Stewart  of  Scot- 
land 1160  erected  in  a  temporall  Lordship  in  favours  of 
James  Hamiltoun  son  of  Claud  Commendator  of  Pasly  with 
the  title  of  Lord  Pasley  1604  Earl  Abercorn  1606.  A  litle  to 
the  Westward  of  Pasley  lyes  Woodsyde  a  litle  pretty  house 
pleasantly  situate  upon  a  rising  ground,  hard  by  is  Stainly  an 
old  Castle  belonging  to  Gentlemen  of  the  name  of  Maxvell 
and  family  of  Newark  but  now  belongs  to  Wm  Lord  Ross. 
Near  to  which  is  Falbar  the  Inheritance  of  an  antient  family 
of  the  name  of  Hall.  Instructing  their  possession  from  the 
time  of  David  Bruce  below  which  is  Eldersly  Castle  the  patri- 
mony and  designation  of  the  renouned  Champion  Sir  William 
Wallace,  but  returnd  again  to  the  Wallaces  of  Cragie  and 
Ricartoun  and  about  the  end  of  K.  David^s  the  2d  reign  came 
to  a  younger  son  of  that  family,  who  have  made  a  good  figure 
since,  hard  by  is  Cochran  tour  the  old  seat  of  the  Cochrans  in 
this  countrey.  Ancestors  of  the  Earls  of  Dundonald  There  is 
upon  the  river  Cart  at  Pasly  a  very  handsome  weel  built  bridge 
of  two  large  Arches  Joyning  the  Smidy hills  and  the  Abbay  of 
234.  Pasly  with  the  toune  Below  the  bridge  of  Pasley  We  have  the 
Easter  and  Wester  Walkingshaws,  both  some  tyme  the  Estate 
of  antient  Gentlemen  of  the  same  name,  came  to  heiresses  who 
were  married  One  to  a  Gentleman  of  their  own  name  and 
family,  obtained  therby  Wester  Walkingshaw  the  other  married 
to  Mortoun  of  Leven,  from  whose  heiress  Easter  Walkingshaw 
came  to  the  Algoes  people  of  good  respect  in  this  country  but 
now  decayed.  Opposite  to  which  upon  the  same  river  is  Knox 


RENFREWSHYRE  £03 

the  antient  possession  of  the  Knoxes  of  that  Ilk,  and  memor- 
able for  Marjory  Bruce  wife  of  Walter  Great  Stewart  of  Scot- 
land, by  a  fall  from  her  horse  at  hunting,  broke  her  neck  at 
which  place  there  is  a  large  stone  erected  with  stairs  round  it 
in  the  common  moor  of  Renfrew;  the  ordinary  place  of  Rande- 
vouse  of  the  Militia  of  that  County.  Within  a  mile  is  the 
Brugh  of  Renfrew,  the  only  royall  burough  in  this  County, 
where  the  Stewarts  of  Scotland  had  a  Castle  and  palace,  the 
place  where  its  said  to  have  bein  retains  the  name  of  Castlehill. 
and  below  the  Kings  meadows  about  a  mile  below  Renfrew 
Cart  empties  itself  into  Clyde.  Upon  a  poynt  betwixt  the 
rivers  of  Clyde  and  Cart  stands  pleasantly  situate  Ranfield  in 
a  pleasant  plain,  weel  planted,  is  the  possession  of  Colin  Camp- 
bell of  Blythswood  acquered  from  the  Hays  who  obtained  these 
lands  at  the  reformation  and  he  and  his  successors  were  for 
4  generations  Parsons  of  Renfrew.  A  litle  above  Ranfeild 
stands  the  Kirk  of  Inchenan  antiently  belonging  to  the  Knights 
Templars  Upon  the  bank  of  Clyde  after  Cart  heath  Emptied 
itself  into  it,  the  first  place  we  meet  with  of  note  is  the  palace 
of  Inchenan  one  of  the  antientest  possessions  of  the  family  of 
Lennox  It  is  pleasantly  situate  in  an  open  plain  feild  and 
the  place  that  is  now  ruinous,  was  built  by  Mathew  first  Earle 
of  Lennox  and  Helen  Hamiltoun  his  spouse.  The  principall 
Entry  bears  that  Inscription. 

Below  Inchenan  is  the  old  tour  of  the  Bar  the  dwelling  235. 
place  of  the  Stewarts  of  Barscube,  a  branch  of  Lennox  a  family 
of  good  account  now  decayed  and  acquired  by  Donald  McGil- 
christ  of  Northbar  1671,  from  Tho.  Stewart  of  Barscube  last 
of  that  race,  who  being  a  merchant  of  considerable  business 
founded  a  harbour  upon  Clyde  and  built  a  very  pretty  house 
hard  by  with  pleasant  gardens  which  he  called  Northbar, 
which  is  now  the  Designation  of  James  McGilchrist  his  son 
and  heir.  A  litle  below  this  upon  the  very  brink  of  the 
river  of  Clyde  stands  the  sweetly  situate  house  of  Erskin 
the  possession  of  the  Antient  Barons  of  Erskin,  when  they 
took  surname  and  designation  of  Barons  and  Lords,  now 
sold  in  the  reign  of  King  Charles  the  first  by  John  Earl  of 
Mar  to  Sir  John  Hamilton  of  Orbestoun  and  by  his  Grand- 
child William  lately  to  Walter  Lord  Blantyre.  it  is  nobly 


204  RENFREWSHYRE 

adorn'd  with  fine  gardens  and  abundance  of  excellent  stately 
barren  planting  with  pleasant  woods,  hard  by  opposite  to 
Erskin  upon  the  Lennox  side  is  the  Regality  of  Kilpatrick, 
which  belonged  antiently  to  the  Abbacy  of  Pasly,  but  after 
the  erection  in  favours  of  James  Earle  of  Abercorne,  it  gave 
the  title  of  Lord  to  that  family  and  was  from  them  acquir'd 
by  Orbestoun  and  so  came  to  Blantyre  lately. 

Below  Erskin  standeth  Bishoptoun  the  Inheritance  of  a 
very  antient  race  of  Gentilmen  of  the  surname  of  Brisbane 
nigh  to  which  is  Bargaran  the  seat  of  ane  old  litle  family  of 
the  Shaus  which  hath  been  possessd  by  them  for  severall 
hundreds  of  years,  three  miles  below  upon  the  river  Clyde 
upon  a  stately  rising  ground  hard  by  the  river  is  Finlastoun 
the  antient  dwelling  place  and  Inheritance  of  the  Deniestouns 
of  that  Ilk  who  ar  making  a  Considerable  figure  in  the  reign 
of  Da:  Bruce  1360.  which  failed  in  K.  James  the  first's  time. 
Sir  Robert  leaving  two  daughters  his  heires  Margaret  maried 
Sir  William  Cunningham e  of  Kilmaurs  with  whom  he  had 
Finlastoun  Castle  &c  and  Sir  John  Maxwell  of 

Calderwood  hath  with  ther  Fynlastoim  afterward  called  the 
barony  of  Newark  which  from  the  year  1477  was  possessed  by 
George  Maxwell  son  and  heir  of  Sir  John  Maxwell  of  Cader- 
wood.  was  first  of  the  Maxwells  of  Newark,  and  is  lately  sold 
by  them,  they  were  a  race  of  brave  Gentlemen  and  in  reputa- 
tion inferior  to  none  in  this  country.  Hard  by  is  port 
Glasgow  a  feu  of  the  City  of  Glasgow  from  the  Lairds  of 
Newark  where  they  have  built  many  statly  houses  and  harber 
for  ships,  this  lenth  the  river  of  Clyde  is  navigable  and  there 
is  the  Custome  Office  and  Port-Glasgow  is  dissolved  lately  from 
Kilmalcolm  and  erected  in  a  paroch.  A  mile  below  Port- 
Glasgow  is  Inch  Gren  an  litle  Hand  belonging  antiently  to  the 
Crawfurds  of  Kilbirny  Opposite  to  which  upon  the  Continent 
they  had  a  good  Estate  and  an  antient  possession  of  ther 
family  weel  known  by  the  name  of  Easter  Kilbirny  alias 
Kibery-Grenock  sold  1667  by  Dame  Marg*  Craufurd  to  Sir 
John  Shaw  of  Greenock.  Below  this  is  Craufurdsdyk  a  part 
of  the  Estate  of  the  Craufurds  of  Cartsburn  hard  by  erected 
in  a  burgh  and  barony  wher  ther  is  a  good  harbour  for  ships 
and  a  very  pretty  litle  toun  most  built  by  Tho.  Craufurd  of 


RENFREWSHYRE  205 

Cartsburn  Merchant  in  Glasgow  a  son  of  Jordanhill.  who  was 
a  son  of  Kilbirny  and  fewed  to  his  servants.  A  very  litle 
lower  is  Greenock  a  weel  built  toun  and  a  brave  large  harbour- 
building  by  Sir  John  Shaw  of  Grenock  and  a  fine  com- 
modious new  Church  built  by  Grenock  and  Cartsburn  and 
their  vassals  Upon  a  rising  ground  stands  the  house  of 
Grenock  the  old  dwelling  of  the  Shaws  of  that  race  since  the 
days  of  James  the  3d  and  ar  now  Barons  of  an  opulent  fortune. 
Two  myles  lower  on  the  firth  lyes  Garioch  toun  and  castle  with 
a  harbour  for  ships.  The  possession  of  Sir  William  Stewart 
of  Castlemilk.  but  then  the  shore  wynding  southward,  we 
meet  with  Leaven  the  antient  Inheritance  of  the  Mortons  sold 
by  Adam  Morton  of  Leven  in  1547  to  William  Lord  Semple, 
from  whom  it  was  sold  to  the  Stewarts  of  Ardgowan.  Then 
below  Leven  we  have  Ardgouan  a  plesant  seat  of  the  Stewart 
of  Blackball,  situate  upon  a  point  rising  high,  weel  planted 
with  goodly  orchards  and  a  most  stately  magnificent  house. 
Near  this  a  litle  rivulet  Kip  emties  itself  into  the  sea  and 
gives  denomination  to  that  paroch  it  waters  for  some  miles 
called  Innerkip  upon  which  hard  by  Ardgouan  there  is  a 
bridge  over  it.  ther  shews  itself  Dunrod  the  antient  dwelling 
and  Designation  of  the  Lindsays  of  that  race,  two  myles  <?,?7. 
lower  we  have  Kels  the  Estate  of  Archbald  Banatyne,  near 
to  which  is  Skelmorly  water  that  separates  Renfrew  and 
divides  it  from  Cuninghame  to  the  West,  above  Cochran* 
tour.  We  have  nixt  the  old  castle  and  tour  of  Eliestoun  the 
antient  designation  of  the  Barons  Semple  in  this  Countrey, 
near  to  which  is  a  bridge  over  black  Cart  at  the  Mouth  of 
the  Loch  of  Semple,  above  which  lyes  Beltrees  antiently 
belonging  to  the  Stewarts  but  now  a  possession  of  the  Semples 
here  is  Semple  Loch  above  a  mile  in  lenth  and  about  a  half  in 
breadth  hes  communication  with  the  loch  of  Kilbirny  by  a 
litle  Rivulet.  On  the  East  side  of  Semple  loch  lyes  the  tour 
of  the  Barr  which  belonged  to  a  race  of  respectfull  Gentlemen 
of  the  name  of  Glen  now  decayed,  plesantly  situate  upon  a 
high  ground  above  the  loch  and  below  good  medows  Litle 
lower  upon  the  same  loch  is  the  Clachan  of  Lochunnoch  be- 
longing antiently  with  a  good  pairt  of  that  parock  to  the 
Abbacy  of  Paslay  but  consists  now  of  a  great  many  wealthy 


206  RENFREWSHYRE 

feuers  vassals  to  the  Earle  of  Dundonald.  A  litle  below  is 
the  Castle  and  Barony  of  Semple  the  Inheritance  of  the  Lord 
Semple  Baron  of  Eliestoun  to  whom  the  Jurisdiction  of  this 
Country  belonged  as  hereditary  high  Sheriff  till  Hew  Lord 
Semple  was  oblidged  to  pairt  with  it  in  King  Charls  the  first 
time,  there  is  a  Collegiat  Church  here  consisting  of  three 
Prebends  founded  by  John  first  Lord  Semple  anno  1506,  is  the 
burieing  place  of  that  noble  family  with  some  of  the  gentry  in 
the  nighbourhead  their  relations,  where  they  have  a  vault 
below  ground  some  of  the  family  are  wrapt  in  lead.  Out 
of  this  loch  comes  black  Cart  river  which  empties  and  con- 
joins itself  in  White  Cart  above  Inchenan  at  the  head  of 
which  is  pleasantly  situate  Thridpart  the  dwelling  of  the 
Semples  of  Beltrees  beautified  with  most  pleasant  meadows 
below.  A  litle  from  the  river  upon  a  high  rising  country  is 
Achinames  the  seat  of  the  Craufords  of  Corsby,  and  Achnames 
is  a  very  high  tour  6  or  7  stories  high,  below  which  is  Johns- 
toun  an  old  possession  of  the  Nisbets,  came  from  them  to  the 
Wallaces,  continued  six  generations  a  house  of  good  account, 
now  decayed.  Near  to  Johnstoun  is  the  Clachan  of  Kil- 
barchan  with  a  paroch  Church,  the  toun  belongs  to  Craigends 
and  Achinames.  Upon  black  Cart  below  Johnstoun  two  myles 
is  Blackstoun  the  summer  duelling  of  the  Abbots  of  Paslay 
built  by  George  Shaw  Abbot  of  Paslay,  where  his  armes  are  to 
i  be  seen,  but  upon  the  reformation  the  house  was  improven  and 
much  beautified  by  James  Earl  of  Abercorn  and  Dame  Marion 
Boyd  his  Lady,  from  Abercorn  Blackstain  was  transfer'd  to 
Sir  Patrick  Maxwell  of  Newark  and  given  to  John  Maxvell  his 
2d  son  his  patrimony  from  whose  heiress  Kattrin  it  came  by 
marriage  to  Alex*  Naper  now  of  Blackstoun.  A  litle  below 
where  black  Cart  falleth  into  Grieff  and  conjoins  upon  a 
pleasant  point  betwixt  the  meeting  of  the  two  rivers  is 
Walkingshaw  house  the  possession  of  the  family  of  the  same 
name,  mightily  pleasant  fyne  orchards  and  gardens  and  excel- 
lent regular  avenues  of  barren  timmer,  and  is  certainly  one  of 
the  pleasantest  seatts  in  this  Countrey.  a  very  handsome  house 
and  weel  adorned,  was  burnt  lately  but  is  now  a  rebuilding, 
here  as  I  said,  black  Cart  and  Grief  Joyn.  Grief  hath  its  rise 
in  the  moor  and  parish  of  Kilmalcom,  at  the  head  of  which 


RENFREWSHYRE  207 

stand  the  old  Castle  and  fort  of  Duchall  the  antient  Inheri- 
tance of  the  Barons  Lyll  of  Duchall,  made  Lords  of  Parlia- 
ment by  K.  James  the  3d  failed  in  the  reign  of  Q  Mary  in  the 
person  of  James  Last  Lord  Lyll  dead  about  1550.  The  lands 
of  Duchai  came  to  Mr  John  Portarfeild  of  that  ilk,  alsoe  an 
antient  family  in  this  Country  from  the  time  of  Alexr  the  2d 
This  river  gives  denomination  to  the  whole  County  of  Renfrew 
by  the  Barony  of  StrathGrieff,  but  after  the  erection  unto  a 
sherifdom,  it  gives  only  name  to  that  Country  it  waters  for 
some  myles.  Upon  which  is  situat  the  stately  high  tour  and 
castle  of  Houstoun  the  barrony  and  designation  of  a  very 
antient  and  powerfull  family  in  this  tract  who  have  been  seated 
here  since  the  tymes  of  K.  Malcolm  the  3d.  Houstoun  is 
situate  upon  a  rising  high  ground  overlooks  a  good  pairt  of 
the  countrey,  most  excellently  adorn'd  with  fyne  orchards  and 
gardens  with  woode  hard  by  and  vast  number  of  barren 
timber,  with  which  this  country  abounds  Below  Houstoun 
upon  Grieff  stands  Craigends  the  possession  of  a  very  worthy 
and  respectfull  family  of  the  Cuninghams,  a  branch  of  the 
noble  family  of  Glencairn  descended  of  a  younger  son  of  the 
first  Earls,  admirably  weel  planted  both  by  airt  and  nature, 
not  far  from  Craigends.  Up  toward  the  rising  Countrey  the 
house  of  Barochan  an  antient  family  of  the  Flemings  from  the 
time  of  K.  Robert  Bruce  and  hes  ever  since  been  a  family  of  289. 
good  note.  Upon  the  high  Country  above  Grieff  stands  Ran- 
furly  the  antient  dwelling  place  of  the  family  of  the  Knoxes  of 
that  Ilk  above  400  years  standing,  and  was  Original  of  the 
worthy  and  renouned  Mr  John  Knox  the  great  Instrument  of 
our  blessed  Reformation.  The  last  of  this  race  Ochta  Knox  of 
Ranfurly  died  in  K.  Charls  the  2ds  time,  leaving  a  daughter  his 
sole  heiress,  married  John  Cuningham  of  Caddell,  and  belongs 
now  to  the  Earle  of  Dundonald.  Below  this  is  Waterstoun 
an  antient  possession  of  the  Cuninghams,  a  Caddet  of  Glen- 
cairn  but  ar  now  decayed  in  this  countrey.  Lower  upon  the 
bank  of  Grieff,  pleasantly  situat  in  a  plain  Country  is  Fulwood 
the  possession  of  an  antient  and  honourable  race  of  the 
Semples  a  branch  of  the  noble  family  of  Semple  before  the 
reign  of  K.  James  the  lrst.  were  gentlemen  of  a  plentifull 
fortune  was  sold  lately  by  John  Semple  of  Fulwood  to  John 


208  RENFREWSHYRE 

Portarfield  of  that  Ilk  and  is  now  the  patrimony  of  Alexr 
Portarfield  his  second  son.  now  of  Fulwood.  Not  far  from 
Fulwood  to  the  north  is  the  house  of  Boghall  the  old  Estate 
of  the  Flemings  descended  of  Wigtoun,  but  returning  to  the 
house  of  Fleming  in  the  Minority  of  K.  Ja  6.  John  Lord 
Fleming  give  Boghall  in  patrimony  to  James  Fleming  his  & 
son,  from  whose  posterity  it  was  acquird  by  the  Earl  of  Dun- 
donald.  Near  where  Grieff  runs  into  black  Cart  is  Selviland 
antiently  belonging  to  the  Knoxes  a  branch  of  Ranfurly  but 
acquired  from  them  by  the  Brisbans  of  Barnhill.  After  Grieff 
and  black  Cart  ar  conjoined,  it  hath  its  course  for  near  two 
myles  untill  it  meet  with  White  Cart  at  the  Kirk  of  Inchenan 
an  half  a  mile  below  which  it  empties  itself  into  Clyde  at  the 
lower  end  wherof  upon  the  river  Clyde  is  situate  Inchenan  and 
so  downward  upon  the  coast  till  I  come  to  Kelly  bridge. 

The  Country  of  Renfrew  to  the  southert  is  both   moun- 
tainous and  moorish  and  is  in  resemblance  like  a  hedge  which 
makes  the  lower  country  all  like  an  Inclosure  and  is  remote 
from  any  river,     there  being  in  the  paroches  of  Mearnes  and 
.  Neilstoun  nothing  memorable.     In  the  Mearns  is  an  old  tour 
belonging  antiently,  to  the  Lord  Maxwell  but  is  now  belonging 
to  the  Stewarts  of  Blackball,  is  pretty  pleasant,  overlooking 
the  countrey  of  Renfrew,  a   good   way,  and    some  pairts  of 
Lanrick  with  the  view  of  the  City  of  Glasgow.     To  the  west 
of  Mearns  lyeth  Pollock  the  antient  patrimony  and  Inherit- 
ance of  a  race  of  Gentlemen  of  the  same  surname  who  were 
considerable  here  since  the  days  of  Alexr  the  first,   whose 
lineall  successour  is  Sir  Robert  Pollock  of  that  Ilk  but  who 
hath  mightily  Improven  his  house  by  stately  new  building  and 
fyne    gardens    and    stately    dykes    and    sommerhouses    and 
Pidgeonhouses    for    magnificence    inferiour    to    few    in   this 
Countrey.     to  the  West  of  Pollock  is  Balgray  the  possession 
of  Tho.   Pollock  of  the  family  of  Pollock  weel  planted.     A 
litle   above    Balgray    to    the    south    is    Fingletoun    the  first 
possession  of  the  Hamiltouns  of  Prestoun,  but  now  belongs  to 
on   Oswald.     Near  Fingiltoun  in  the  parish  of  Neilstoun  is 
Glanderstoun  which  is  the  Inheritance  of  William  Muir  the 
6th  in  descent  from  William  his  predecessor  a  younger  son  of 
the  antient  family  of  Caldwell  of  Glanderstoun.  many  respect- 


RENFREWSHYRE  209 

full  people  ar  descended.  to  the  West  of  Glanderstoun 
lyeth  the  barony  of  Syde  the  old  possession  of  the  Mont- 
gomeries  of  Skelmorly.  Sir  Robert  is  now  of  Skelmorly.  but 
the  barony  of  Syde  is  the  extremes t  south  pairt  of  Renfrew 
bordering  with  the  paroch  of  Dunlop.  to  the  North  of  Syde 
is  the  Castle  of  Caldwell  antiently  belonged  to  barons  of  the 
same  surname  but  went  most  pairt  with  an  heires  in  the  reign 
of  maried  with  a  brother  of  the  Muirs  of  Abercorn. 

The  Muirs  of  Caldwell  have  been  always  a  family  of  great 
consideration  and  gentlemen  of  great  bravery  and  possessed  of 
a  very  competent  Estate  here  and  elswhere.  William  Muir 
late  of  Caldwell  being  forfaulted  1668  the  gift  of  Caldwells 
Estate  was  given  to  Gen.  Dalziell  who  ruffled  the  house  and 
now  stands  ruinous  but  his  heirs. were  restored  at  the  Revolu- 
tion, hard  by  to  the  westert  is  litle  Caldwall  the  only  remain-  • 
ing  Gentlemans  family  of  that  name  in  this  Country  and  say 
they  ar  a  son  of  the  old  Caldwalls  of  that  Ilk.  the  lands  of 
litle  Caldwall  are  lately  acquird  by  the  Earle  of  Dundonald. 
The  litle  Caldwall  is  borderd  with  Dunlop  to  the  south  and 
Beeth  paroch  to  the  west  and  Lochunnoch  to  the  South. 

Mistilaw  is  upon  the  confynes  of  Renfrew  and  heirto  ther  is 
the  Queens  Loch  out  of  which  issues  Care  [sic]  that  separates 
Kilbrny  and  Lochunnoch.  the  first  thing  we  have  is  Milbank 
which  antiently  belonged  to  the  Semples  and  were  the  patri- 
mony of  James  Semple  of  Milbank.  Airthurly,  Nilstansyde, 
Houshill  belonged  to  Minto,  now  to  Dunlop,  Dargevill. 
Roslin,  Freeland.  Flatertoun.  Southhook,  Quarlton,  Privick, 
Brunchels,  Achinbetly  Wadellaw  Achinbot  Blair  Achingoun 
Logans.  Raiss  Stainly  Fulbar  Newton,  Fergusly  Eldersly, 
and  latly  failed  heir  is  also  Brunchels  once  belonging  to  the 
Semples  now  to  Dundonald  above  Kilbarchan  is  Lochunoch 
to  the  Westert  and  to  the  northert  Kilelan  antiently  a  depend- 
ing on  the  Monastry  of  Paslay  in  this  paroch  there  are  several! 
seatts  as  the  Fulwood  and  Boghall. 

The  paroches  and  patrons 

Egilsham     of  which  the  Earle  of  Eglinton  is  patron. 
Eastwood  the  Earle  of  Dundonald  patron 

Cathcart  the  Earle  of  Dundonald  patron 

VOL.  II.  O 


210  LEWIS 

Mearns  Laird  of  Blackball  patron 

Renfrew  a  burgh  royall. 

Paslay  the  Earle  of  Dundonald  patron 

Kilbarchan 

Inchenan  Duke  of  Montrose  patron 

Erskin  Lord  Blantyre  patron 

Kilmalcolm  Earle  of  Glencairn  patron. 

Port  Glasgow 

Greenock  Laird  of  Greenock  patron 

Innerkip  Laird  of  Blackball  patron 

Lochunnoch  Earle  of  Dundonald  patron 

Kilelan  Laird  of  Barochan  patron. 

Houstoun  Laird  of  Houstoun  patron. 


DESCRIPTION     of     the     LEWIS     by     JOHN 
MORISONE  Indweller  there 

The  remotest  of  all  the  Western  Islands  of  Scotland  is 
commonlie  called  the  Lews,  by  strangers  the  Nito;  Yet  it  is 
divyded  and  cutt  be  severall  sounds  and  rivers  of  the  sea  into 
five  severall  countries,  belonging  to  live  severall  heritors  as 
Barray  to  the  Laird  of  Barray,  Suth  Uist  to  the  Captaine  of 
Clanrale  and  North  Uist  to  Sir  Donald,  the  Herrish  to  the 
Macleod  of  Dunveggane.  and  that  which  is  properlie  called 
the  Lews  to  the  Earle  of  Seaforth:  Of  which  we  are  now  to 
speak e 

This  cuntrie  of  the  Lews  by  the  situation  lyeth  longwayes 
from  Northeast  to  southwest  sixtie  myle  in  length  including 
the  Herrish  and  in  bread  8  myles  and  in  some  places 
twelve. 

There  are  on  the  eastsyde  of  the  Cuntrie  4  lochs,  wherin 
shipps  of  anie  burden  may  ryde  viz.  the  Loch  of  Stornuway 
being  the  first  and  nixt  to  the  North  a  verie  good  and 
ordinarie  harbour  within  but  in  the  entrie  hath  twa  rocks 
invisible  with  high  water,  one  on  each  syde  of  the  entrie. 
that  on  the  Northsyde  and  the  outmost  of  the  two  is  called 
the  beasts  of  Holm  and  that  on  the  South  syd  and  innermost 
is  called  the  Roof  of  Arinish ;  Within  those  two  there  is  no 


LEWIS  211 

danger  of  rocks.  The  nixt  harbour  towards  the  south  is  Loch 
Herrish,  where  lyeth  the  birkin  Island  a  verie  good  and  usuall 
harbour,  next  to  it  is  Loch  Shell,  which  is  a  more  open  place, 
yet  there  is  speciall  good  ryding  in  it.  And  nixt  to  it  and 
southmost  is  Loch  Seafort.  The  distance  betwixt  those  places 
is  from  the  Bawlinehead  which  is  the  northmost  Promontarie 
of  the  Lews  to  Loch  Stornuway  18  myles  of  land,  which  are 
thus  divided  from  Loch  Stornuway  to  Loch  Herrish  five  myles  , 
of  land ;  thence  to  Loch  Shell  five  myles,  from  which  to  Loch 
Seafort  8  myles.  There  are  severall  other  creeks  and  bays 
weel  knowne  to  seamen  quhilk  I  omit.  Upon  the  west  syde  of 
the  Countrie  there  are  no  harbouring  for  shipps  except  the 
Loch  of  Carluvay,  streeking  in  almost  in  the  middest  of  the 
countrie.  The  entrie  of  it  is  opposit  to  the  North  haveing 
rnanie  brockne  Islands  on  the  west  syde.  the  Loch  itself 
streaching  within  the  land  in  severall  Creeks  and  bayes.  As 
for  the  Islands  and  rocks  without  the  land,  former  Chrono- 
logers  have  most  exactlie  descrived  as  Buchanan  and  others ; 
Onlie  there  are  seven  Islands  15  myles  Westward  from  the 
Lews,  called  the  Isles  of  Sant  Flannan,  lying  closs  together; 
wherin  there  is  a  cheaple,  where  Sant  Flandan  himself  lived 
ane  heremit.  To  those  in  the  summertyme  some  Countriemen 
goes,  and  bringeth  home  great  store  of  seafouls  and  feathers. 
The  way  they  kill  the  fowls  is,  one  goeth  and  taketh  a  road 
10  or  12  foot  long,  and  setts  his  back  to  a  rock  or  craig,  and 
as  the  fouls  fiieth  by,  he  smiteth  them  continuallie,  and  he 
lies  ane  other  attending  to  catch  all  that  falls  to  the  ground ; 
for  the  fouls  flee  there  so  thick  that  those  who  are  beneath 
them  cannot  see  the  firmament.  Those  Isles  are  not  inhabited, 
but  containeth  a  quantitie  of  wilde  sheep  verie  fatt  and  weel 
fleeced.  When  the  people  goe  there,  they  use  everie  two  men 
to  be  Comerads.  They  hold  it  a  breach  of  the  sanctitie  of  the 
place  (for  they  count  it  holier  than  anie  other.)  if  any  man 
take  a  drink  of  water  unknown  to  his  comerade  or  eat  ane  egg 
or  legg  of  ane  foull,  yea  take  a  snuff  of  tobacco:  It  is  for 
certaintie  that  upon  a  tyme  a  Countriefellow  being  sent  there 
and  left  in  it,  be  reason  he  could  not  be  keept  from  thift  and 
robberie  and  so  on  a  time  the  fire  went  out  with  him,  without 
which  he  could  not  live,  and  so  despaired  of  lyfe  and  since  he 


LEWIS 

saw  that  there  was  no  remead,  he  betook  him  to  pray  both  to 
God  and  the  Sainct  of  the  Island  as  they  termed  it  and  by 
night  being  fallen  in  a  deep  sleep,  he  sees  a  man  come  to  him 
well  clade  saying  aryse,  betake  thee  unto  the  Altar  and  there 
thou  shall  find  a  peate  in  fyre  for  the  Lord  hath  heard  thy 
prayer.  So  he  arose  and  accordingly  found  the  fyre,  which  he 
preserved  untill  he  was  taken  home,  and  henceforth  he  proved 
as  honest  a  man  as  was  in  the  Countrie 

There  are  also  17  leagues  from  the  Lews  and  to  the  North 
of  it  two  Islands  called  Saliskerr  which  is  the  Westmost  and 
Ronay  fyve  myles  to  the  east  of  it.  Ronay  onlie  inhabited 
and  ordinarlie  be  five  small  tennents.  there  ordinar  is  to  have 
all  things  commone.  they  have  a  considerable  grouth  of 
victuall  onlie  bear,  the  best  of  ther  sustinance  is  fowll  which 
they  take  in  girns,  and  somtyms  in  a  stormie  night  they  creep 
to  them  where  they  sleep  thikest  and  throwing  some  handfulls 
of  sand  over  there  heads  as  if  it  were  hail,  they  take  them  be 
the  Necks  :  Of  the  grease  of  these  fowls  especiallie  the  soline 
goose,  they  make  ane  excellent  oyle  called  the  Gibanirtich, 
which  is  exceeding  good  for  healing  of  anie  sore  or  vound  or 
cancer  either  on  man  or  beast.  This  I  myself  found  true  by 
experience  by  applying  of  it  to  the  legg  of  a  young  gentle- 
man which  had  been  inflamed  and  cankered  for  the  space  o£ 
two  years  :  and  his  father  being  a  trader  south  and  north, 
sought  all  Phisicians  and  Doctors,  with  whom  he  had  occasione 
to  meet,  but  all  was  in  vaine :  Yet  in  three  weeks  tyme  being 
in  my  house  was  perfectlie  whole  be  applying  the  forsaid  Ovle. 
The  way  they  make  it,  is  they  put  the  grease  and  fatt  into  the 
great  gutt  of  the  fowll  and  so  it  is  hung  within  a  house  untill 
it  run  in  oyll.  In  this  Ronay  there  are  two  litle  cheapels, 
where  Sanct  Ronan  lived  all  his  tym  as  an  heremite  There 
are  likewise  three  Islands  called  the  Island  Chants  or  Sanct, 
lying  to  the  southward  about  third  part  way  towards  the  Isle 
of  Skye  abounding  also  in  sea  fowl  sheep  and  other  catle. 
Other  Islands  lying  close  to  the  cost  of  the  Lews  are  in  the 
mouth  of  Lochshell,  Island  Evart,  and  in  the  mouth  of  Loch- 
herish  are  Haray,  Hava  and  the  birkne  Island  and  in  the 
mouth  of  Loch  Stornuway  are  Holme  and  Island  Cowll  On 
the  west  syde  of  the  Countrie  are  those  first  Island  Mcali- 


LEWIS  213 

stay,  Mangray,  Pabay  Vaxay  Wuiay  minor  and  Wuiay  major 
betwixt  those  Isles  of  Waxay  and  Vuiay,  ships  might  venture 
to  Loch  Rogue,  but  without  a  good  Pylate  I  would  not  desyre 
them.  There  are  Hkways  Berneray  major,  Berneray  minor, 
Kiartay  Cavay  Grenam  Kialinsay,  Berisay.  Fladday  and  ane 
high  rockie  Island  lying  fardest  out  to  the  Westward  of  Loch 
Carluvay  called  the  roch  Island. 

This  countrie  of  the  Lews  is  a  fertile  soyle  for  bear  and 
oats  other  grain  they  use  not,  such  as  whet,  peas,  beans,  &° 
I  take  the  reasone  of  it  to  be  the  multitude  of  catle  which  are 
seldom  housed  but  are  constantlie  in  the  open  feilds  and  such 
seeds  wold  not  endure  to  be  ordinarlie  traded  upon  as  bear 
and  oats  will  doe.  It  is  verie  plentifull  in  all  sorts  of  catle, 
such  as  kyne,  sheep,  goat,  horse.  It  is  also  plentiful  off  all 
sorts  of  vyld  fowl,  such  as  wilde  goose,  Duke,  draike,  whape, 
pliver,  murefowl  and  the  lyke.  It  is  also  served  with  a  most 
plentifull  forrest  of  dear  naturallie  environed  with  the  sea,  and 
as  it  were  inclosed  betwixt  Lochseafort  and  Herish,  having 
two  myls  of  ground  onlie  betwixt  both  the  loch  ends,  full  of 
goodlie  hills  and  wast  bounds  so  that  there  is  litle  differ 
betwixt  it  and  a  Pene  Insula. 

But  of  all  the  properties  of  the  countrie,  the  great  trade  of 
fishing  is  not  the  least,  wherin  it  exceeds  anie  countrie  in 
Scotland,  for  herine,  cod  ling,  salmone  and  all  other  sorts  of 
smaller  fishes 

There  are  manie  fresh  water  Loghes  dispersed  through  the 
countrie  about  500,  streaming  into  the  sea  on  both  sydes  of 
the  land,  all  weel  plenished  with  black  trout  and  eele  and  also 
salmone.  All  the  arable  land  of  the  Countrie  lyes  be  the  sea- 
syde  round  about.  In  severall  places  there  are  great  stones 
standing  up  straight  in  ranks,  some  two  or  three  foot  thick  and 
10,  12,  and  15  foot  high  ;  It  is  left  by  traditione  that  these 
were  a  sort  of  men  converted  into  stones  by  ane  Inchanter. 
others  affirme  that  they  wer  sett  up  in  places  for  devotione. 
but  the  places  where  they  stand  are  so  far  from  anie  such  sort 
of  stons  to  be  seen  or  found  either  above  or  under  ground,  that 
it  cannot  but  be  admired  how  they  could  be  caried  there. 
There  is  a  strange  fountain  in  a  place  called  Garrabost  the 
water  of  which  being  put  with  either  fish  or  Hesh  in  a  pot  or 


LEWIS 

kettell,  it  will  not  boy  11  though  it  were  never  so  long  keept  at 

246.  the  greatest  fyre  and  yett  will  still  playe.     There  is  likewise  a 
well  in  another  place  called  Chader,  the  water  wherof  if  it  be 
brought  and  drunk  be  a  seek  man  he  sail  immediatlie  dye  or 
recover. 

There  are  no  woods  in  this  Countrie,  onlie  some  small 
shrubbs  in  some  few  places.  Yet  the  Inhabitants  dig  up  great 
trunks  and  roots  of  trees  10  or  12  foot  under  moss. 

The  sea  casteth  on  shore  sometimes  a  sort  of  nutts  growing 
upon  tangles  round  and  flat,  sad  broun  or  black  coullored,  of 
the  bread  of  a  dollor  some  more,  some  less,  the  kernell  of  it 
being  taken  out  of  the  shell,  is  ane  excellent  and  experienced 
remedie  for  the  bloodie  flux,  they  ordinarlie  make  use  of  the 
shell  for  keeping  ther  snuff  Ane  other  sort  of  Nutt  is  found 
in  the  same  maner  of  a  less  syze  of  a  broun  cullour,  flatt  and 
round  with  a  black  circle  about  it.  quilk  in  old  tymes  women 
wore  about  ther  necks  both  for  ornament  and  holding  that  it 
had  the  vertue  to  make  fortunate  in  catle  and  upon  this 
account,  they  were  at  the  pains  to  bind  them  in  silver,  brass, 
or  tinn  according  to  their  abilitie.  There  are  other  leaser 
yett,  of  a  whitish  coulour  and  round,  which  they  call  Sanct 
Maries  Nutt  quhilk  they  did  wear  in  the  same  maner,  holding 
it  to  have  the  verteu  to  preserve  woemen  in  child  bearing. 

There  is  no  castle  in  this  Countrie  saving  the  old  Castle  of 
Stornuvay  but  lately  brokne  doun  by  the  Inglish  garisone  in 
Cromvels  tyme. 

The  first  and  most  antient  Inhabitants  of  this  •  Countrie 
were  three  men  of  three  severall  races  viz.  Mores  the  sone  of 
Kenannus  whom  the  Irish  historiance  call  Makurich  whom  they 
make  to  be  Naturall  Sone  to  one  of  the  Kings  of  Noruvay.  some 
of  whose  posteritie  remains  in  the  land  to  this  day.  All  the 
Morisones  in  Scotland  may  challenge  there  descent  from  this 
man.  The  second  was  Iskair  Mac.Awlay  ane  Irish  man  whose 
posteritie  remain  likvise  to  this  day  in  the  Lews.  The  third 
was  Macknaicle  whose  onlie  daughter  Torquill  the  first  of  that 
name  (and  sone  to  Claudius  the  sone  of  Olipheous,  who  like- 
wise is  said  to  be  the  King  of  Noruway  his  sone,)  did  violentlie 
espouse,  and  cutt  off  Immediatlie  the  whole  race  of  Mack- 

247.  naicle  and  possessed   himself  with  the  whole  Lews  and  con- 


LEWIS  215 

tinueth  in  his  posteritie  (Macleud  Lews)  dureing  13  or  14 
generations  and  so  extinct  before,  or  at  least  about  the  year 
1600  the  maner  of  his  decay  I  omitt  because  I  intend  no 
historic  but  a  descriptione.  Onlie  for  the  tyme  the  countrie 
is  possessed  and  safelie  governed  by  the  Earle  of  Seaforth,  by 
whose  industrious  care  and  benevolence,  the  people  formerlie 
inclined  to  rudeness  and  barbarity  are  reduced  to  civilitie, 
much  understanding  and  knowledge  by  the  flourishing  schooll 
planted  and  mantained  by  the  saids  Earls  all  the  tyme  in  the 
toun  of  Stornuway.  And  not  onlie  the  people  of  the  Lews  but 
also  those  of  the  nixt  adjacent  Isles,  the  gentlemens  sons  and 
daughters  are  bred  in  that  schooll  to  the  great  good  and 
comfort  of  that  people ;  so  that  there  are  few  families  but  at 
least  the  maister  can  read  and  write :  I  do  remember  in  my 
own  tyme  that  there  was  not  three  in  all  the  countrie  that 
knew  A.  b  by  A  Bible 

Nota  that  there  are  neither  Wolf,  ffox  nor  venemous 
creature  in  the  Countrie  except  a  few  snakes. 

Of  anie  famous  batle  in  this  Countrie,  I  cannot  say  much 
but  manie  and  assiduous  skirmishes  hes  been  of  old  betwixt 
the  Inhabitants :  The  fights  and  skirmishes  betwixt  the 
Countrie  men  and  the  Lairds  of  Fyff  are  to  be  found  in  Spots- 
wood  his  Ecclesiasticall  historic  to  which  I  referr  the  reader : 
Onlie  the  late  Earle  of  Seaforth  coming  with  a  fleing  armie 
fought  with  the  English  garrisone  under  Cromuall,  killed 
many  of  ther  men  but  being  destitute  of  artilrie,  could1  storm 
the  garisone,  notwithstanding  that  he  assaulted  the  trenches ; 
neither  would  they  be  drawne  out  to  the  fields  to  encounter. 

Nota  There  is  a  litle  Island  hard  by  the  coast  where  it  is 
said  that  Pigmeis  lived  some  tyme  by  reason  they  find  by 
searching  some  small  bones  in  the  earth ;  but  I  cannot  give 
much  faith  to  it  since  greater  mens  bones  would  consume  in  a 
short  tyme  but  I  hold  them  to  be  the  bones  of  small  fowls 
which  abound  in  that  place  finis 

Finis  coronat  opus. 

1  Macfarlane's  transcriber  has  here  omitted  (between  the  words  'could 'and 
'  storm ')  the  word  '  not,'  which  is  in  the  MS.  from  which  he  copied.  — ED. 


216  IONA 

248.         A  SHORT  DESCRIPTION  of  I.  or  IONA  1693. 

This  He  lyes  straight  in  lenth  to  the  south,  south  vest  two 
myles  in  lenth,  one  in  breadth,  full  of  litle  hillocks,  pleasant 
and  healthfull  vith  a  store  of  common  medicinall  hearbs 
naturally  growing,  and  some1  Monks  transplanted  thither  from 
other  places  both  esculent  and  medicinall.  The  He  is  fruitfull 
and  hes  plaine  arable  ground  in  good  measure,  interlyned 
betwixt  the  litle  green  hills  theroff  the  product  and  cheif 
commoditie  is  barly,  its  seveared  from  the  south  end  of  Mull 
by  a  narrow  sound  3  part  of  a  leg,  which  makes  it  verie  com- 
modious for  fishing  and  all  water  and  sea  foules.  This  He  hes 
been  famous  first  by  Columbus  his  dwelling  there.  2do  by  the 
large  and  curious  Church,  Abbacie  and  Nunerie  founded  there. 
A  considerable  citie  vas  in  the  Isle  of  old  called  Sodora,  the 
vestiges  whereof  is  yett  visible  by  the  port  and  streets 
thereoff.  it  lay  in  the  midst  of  the  He  upon  the  east  cost, 
weell  stored  with  naturall  fontanis  in  great  aboundance,  great 
many  gardens  yett  visible  and  many  chapells  of  whose  par- 
ticular uses,  (safe  that  they  served  for  divine  worship,)  we  can 
give  litle  account  One  of  these  vas  dedicated  to  the  Saint 
Oranus  commonly  called  Oran.  It  is  situate  neer  the  great 
Church  and  Abbacie  vith  a  particular  precinct.  In  which 
many  of  our  kings  and  the  kings  of  Irland  &  Danemark  lyes 
buried  vith  severall  other  tombs  of  the  heads  of  Clans.  3tio 
by  Columbus  his  buriall  there  in  a  litle  Chapell  be  himselfe. 
tho  the  Irish  alledge  he  is  buried  with  them,  their  credulativc 
fancie  is  founded  on  a  verse  forged  by  some  flattering  Priest. 

Hi  tres  sunt  una,  tumulo  tumulantur  in  uno 
Brigida,  Patricius  atque.  Columba  pius. 

But  I  have  seen  his  life  extracted  out  of  the  Popes  librarie 
and  translated  in  Irish  by  a  priest  verbatim  as  it  vas  in  latin 
in  the  said  librarie  shewing  he  died  and  vas  buried  at  I.  the 
priest  vas  Caal  O  horan.  Ther  hes  been  many  Inscriptions 
upon  the  tombs  and  pillars,  the  most  is  obliterat.  Many 
%&.  curious  knotts  of  Mosaick  vork  yett  to  be  seen,  tho  many  is 

1  Macfarlane's  transcriber  has  here  omitted  (between  the  words  '  some '  and 
'  Monks  '),  the  words  '  yt  ye,'  which  are  in  the  MS.  from  which  he  copied. — ED. 


IONA— TIRRY  217 

overgrown  and  covered  with  Earth.  The  buriall  places  of  the 
Nuns  is  about  the  Nunerie.  No  Woman  is  yet  tolleratt  to  be 
buried  neer  the  great  Church  or  where  the  men  are  buried, 
this  is  alledged  to  be  by  Columbus  speciall  Order.  In  this  He 
vas  a  great  many  crosses  to  the  number  of  360,  which  vas  all 
destroyed  by  one  provinciall  assembly  holden  on  the  place  a 
litle  after  reformation,  ther  fundations  is  yet  estant,  and  two 
notable  ones  of  a  considerable  hight  and  excellent  work  un- 
touched ;  In  this  Hand  is  marble  enouch  Whereof  the  late 
Earle  of  Argyle  caused  polish  a  peice  at  London  aboundantly 
beautifull.  In  a  particular  place  of  the  Hand  neer  the  sea 
ebbing  and  flowing  therinto  is  found  transparent  stons  of  all 
collours  but  more  ordinarly  green,  much  resembleing  agatts, 
they  yeild  to  the  file  and  toole  and  I  have  severall  sealls  of 
them.  In  this  He  vas  a  societie  of  the  Druids  when  Columbus 
came  there,  but  it  seems  they  were  non  of  the  best  for  he 
banished  them  all.  Here  is  yett  a  few  people  upon  the  Isle 
called  Ostiarij  from  their  Office  about  the  temple  who  is 
observed  never  to  exceed  8  in  number,  which  is  said  to  be  for- 
tokl  by  Columbus  to  be  their  Judgement  for  some  atrocious 
fault  committed  by  ther  progenitor.  The  registers  and 
records  of  this  He  was  all  written  on  Parchmen  but  all 
destroyed  by  that  Assemby  that  destroyed  the  crosses. 

ANE  ANSWER  to  SIR  ROBERT  SYBALDS  m. 
QUERIES   for  the   IYLS   of  TIRRY, 
GUNNA,  COLLE,  and   ICOLMKILL 
all  lying  within  the  SHERYDOME  of  ARGAYLL 
and  the  BISHOPRICK  of  the  IYLLS. 

Marked  on  the  back.  A  Description  of  Tyrie 
Gonna  Colla  and  Icolmkill  Given  into  me  by  the 
Bishop  of  the  Isles. 

The  Ille  of  Tery  laying  aff  the  Ille  of  Mulle  towards  the 
west  about  24  myils  of  sea  and  within  the  latitude  of  56 
degrees  20  minuts.  is  8  mails  in  lenth  from  East  Northeast 
to  West  southwest  and  three  in  breadth  where  broadest.  This 
Ille  is  gouid  for  cattell,  productive  of  corne  and  grasse  abun- 


218  TIRRY— GUNNA— COLLE 


dantly.  it  is  commodious  for  fowling  and  fishing  only  ther  is 
no  salmon  nor  herrin  taikin  in  it  there  being  no  arms  of  the 
sea  entering  the  land  nor  any  rivers  of  anie  account.  In  the 
midst  of  this  Illand  is  a  large  grein  2  mails  in  diameter  and  6 
in  circumference  of  excellent  gouid  and  kyndly  grasse  many 
watter  Lochs  are  in  this  Illand,  in  on  of  which  is  a  small 
Illand  on  which  standith  ane  ruinous  tour  surrounded  with 
ane  trintch  of  stone  and  earth.  Many  gouid  springs  are  in 
this  111  and  one  remarkable  to  be  gouid  for  persons  in  con- 
sumtions  and  that  hes  weak  stoamocks  severall  medicinal! 
herbs  is  found  hear  bot  no  woods,  the  ground  being  most 
sandy  and  dry.  here  are  small  cheapells  of  no  great  account, 
the  lairgest  pairte  of  the  Hand  being  Churchland.  To  one  of 
these  Chapels  called  Sorrabij  the  deanry  of  the  Ills  is  annexd. 
Sometyms  Spermacete  is  cast  on  this  Coast  and  lapides  preg- 
nantes  of  the  whijt  and  blake  kynde,  the  Coast  round  about 
this  111  is  verij  dangerous  for  manij  rocks  sandij  banks  and 
violent  tyds  there  are  some  harbors  of  bad  entryes,  yet  when 
entred,  pretty  safe  for  small  gellijs  and  barks.  Eastern  and 
,'5i.  Western  Moons  makes  alwayes  highe  water  in  this  111  and  in 
the  other  Ills  nixt  to  it. 

Directlie  northward  from  Tirij  is  the  111  of  Gunna  about  a 
myle  of  sea,  it  is  ane  maile  in  lenth,  of  small  breadth  pretty 
fertiall,  and  commodious  for  fishing,  in  the  midst  of  it  is  a 
ruinous  Chepall. 

From  that  to  the  North  laijs  the  Ille  of  Colle,  severid  by  a 
smal  streame  weadable  sometymes  when  it  is  low  water,  this 
111  extends  to  the  North  12  mails  in  length,  only  2  in  breadth 
sufficiently  fertill,  it  hes  small  woods,  many  fresh  water  Lochs 
gouid  springs  and  nledicinall  herbs,  pettie  rivers,  here  is  found 
the  myne  of  Iron  in  abundance  In  this  Ille  ar  two  ruinous 
chepals  and  a  strong  compak  toure,  seated  near  the  sea.  The 
Coast  of  this  Illand  is  better  than  that  of  Tvrie  or  Gonna  for 
ther  entreth  ane  arme  of  the  sea  in  the  suth  and  sutheast  syde 
of  it  called  Loch  Jern,  wher  ships  may  saflie  venter  it  is  plea- 
sant for  fishing  and  fouling. 

Icollumkill  antiently  called  lona,  layes  from  Colle  to  the 
south  and  southeast  about  36  mailes  of  sea  and  is  distant  from 
the  south  end  of  Mulle  about  1  maill  of  sea.  it  is  2  miles  in 


ICOLLUMKILL— SKY  219 

lenth  and  almost  from  east  to  west  and  1  mile  in  bredth  it 
is  verij  fertill,  commodious  for  fishing  and  fowling  it  hes  two 
fresh  water  Lochs  gouid  springs  and  medicinal  herbs,  here  the 
sea  casteth  up  in  ane  place  a  number  of  small  stones  of  divers 
collours  and  transparente,  verij  fair  to  looke  upon,  they  reallij 
are  peculiar  to  the  place  for  the  longer  they  lay  upon  the  shoar 
they  reapen  and  turns  more  lively  in  their  coulors,  they  yeild 
to  the  feile  and  admits  of  gouid  polishing  and  engraving. 
Marble  also  of  divers  colours  and  with  beautijfull  vains  is 
found  in  this  Illand.  It  hes  bein  counted  renouned  pairtly  for 
the  gouid  discipline  of  Columbus  who  is  buried  in  it  and  partly 
for  the  monuments  of  the  place.  In  it  is  2  Monastryes.  One  ^' 
of  Monks,  another  of  Nuns  a  Church  of  considerable  dimen- 
sions dedicated  to  Columbus  this  hes  been  the  Cathedrall  of 
the  Bishops  of  the  Ills  since  Sodora  in  the  111  of  Man  came 
into  the  Inglishes  hands.  In  this  Illand  ar  many  other  small 
chepalls.  The  vestiges  of  a  citie  is  zit  visible  in  it,  which  as 
some  old  manuscripts  testifies,  was  called  Sodora:  Many  of 
the  Kings  of  Scotland  some  of  the  Kings  of  Irland  and  Nora- 
way  was  buryet  heer.  Manij  tombs  appropriat  to  the  families 
of  the  Illanders,  as  ther  inscriptions,  tho  now  allmost  obliterate 
do  testifij,  heer  the  famous  Columbus  himself  was  also  interred, 
the  Coast  round  about  lona  is  verij  bade  full  of  rocks  and 
violent  tyds.  the  whole  Illand  is  Church  land,  so  is  also  a 
gouid  pairt  of  Tyrie,  the  111  of  Gonnaj  wholly  and  the  two  ends 
of  Colle.  It  is  remarkable  that  there  is  in  lona  a  few  people 
called  to  this  day  Ostiarij  from  their  Office  about  the  Church 
in  Columbus  tyme,  this  people  never  exceeds  the  number  of 
8  persons  in  perfyte  ege,  this  is  found  to  had  true,  and  there 
is  a  tradition  that  for  some  miscarriage  of  ther  predecessors  in 
Collumbus  tyme,  this  malediction  was  left  them  The  Inhabi- 
tants of  all  the  said  Illands  is  naturally  civill  and  bountiful), 
right  capable  of  all  gouid  Instructions  all  thir  Illands  hes  bein 
possessed  be  McLeane  and  the  Cadette  of  his  family 

Jo.  FUASKK 

A  DESCRIPTION  of  SKY  253. 

Sky  or  Skianach  is  the  greatest  of  all  the  jEbuds  or  West 
Isles.     It  lyeth  from  south  to  North  42  miles  in  length  and 


220  SKY 

12  miles  in  breadth  in  other  places  8  m.  The  south  place 
therof  called  Sleatt  is  divided  from  the  Continent  of  Kyntaill, 
Glenelg  and  Knodort  by  a  narrow  firth.  The  promontaries 
thereof  are  stretched  into  the  sea  like  wings  for  which  it  is 
called  by  some  Writers  Alata  since  the  word  Skia  in  the  old 
language  signifies  a  wing. 

This  Isle  is  blest  with  a  good  and  temperate  Air,  which 
though  somtymes  foggy  and  the  hills  often  surrounded  with 
mist,  so  that  they  can  scarce  be  discerned,  yet  the  summer  by 
reason  of  the  continuall  and  gentle  winds  so  abating  the  heat, 
and  the  thickness  of  the  air  yet  frequent  showrs  in  the  winter  so 
asswageing  the  cold  that  neither  the  one  nor  the  other  proves 
obnoxious  to  the  Inhabitants,  the  summer  not  scorching  nor 
the  winter  benumming  them. 

The  whole  Island  is  verie  fertile,  their  grains  for  the  most 
part  is  barly,  oats  and  some  pease  with  which  they  furnish 
those  in  the  continent  yearlie.  here  is  great  store  of  Cattell 
such  as  Cowes,  sheep,  goat  swine  &c  as  also  dear,  rae  with  all 
sorts  of  wild  foull  a  swans  solangeese,  wildgeese  duke  and  drake 
woodcock,  heathcok,  patridges  plivers,  doves,  hauks  and  hun- 
dreds of  other  sorts  tedious  to  relate  Its  seas  and  rivers  are 
sufficientlie  provided  with  variety  of  excellent  fish,  as  herring 
salmonds,  trouts  eels,  Makerel,  Whiting,  Lobster.  Cod.  an 
infinit  number  of  Oysters.  In  the  bowels  of  the  Earth  there 
are  severall  mines  of  Iron  and  some  presumptions  to  believe 
there  are  in  it  of  gold  also,  and  some  Coal. 

The  commodities  this  Isle  produces  are  wool,  hides,  tallow, 
goat,  sheep  calves  fox  and  otter  skins,  as  also  butter  and  cheese 
which  they  transport  to  Glasgow,  for  which  they  receave  in 
exchange  sundrie  other  commoditeis. 

The  Inhabitants  of  this  Island  are  for  the  most  part  of  a  good 
stature  strong  and  nimble,  of  a  good  complexion,  lives  verie 
long,  much  addicted  to  hunting,  arching,  shooting,  swimming 
wherin  they  are  verie  expert.  Ther  language  for  the  most 
part  is  Irish  which  is  verie  emphatick  and  for  its  antiquity. 
Scaliger  reckons  it  one  of  the  maternal!  languages  of  Europe, 
they  are  great  lovers  of  all  sorts  of  Musick,  have  a  good 
ear. 

As  to  ther  women,  they  are  verie  modest,  temperat  in  ther 


SKY  221 

dyet  and  apparell,  excessively  grieved  at  the  death  of  anie  near 
relation. 

All  the  Inhabitants  here  have  a  great  veneration  for  ther 
superiour  whom  with  the  King  they  make  particular  mention 
of  in  ther  privat  devotion,  besides  ther  land  rents  thev  ordi- 
mirlie  send  gratis  to  ther  superiours  of  the  product  of  ther 
land,  of  all  sorts.  They  honour  there  Ministers  in  a  high 
degree,  to  whose  care  under  God  they  owe  their  freedom  from 
Idolatrie  and  many  superstitious  Customes.  There  traditions, 
wherin  they  are  verie  faith  full,  gives  account  that  this  Isle  hes 
been  in  time  of  the  Danes  and  since,  the  scene  of  many  warlik 
exploits.  Some  of  ther  genealogers  can  nether  read  nor  writt 
and  yett  will  give  an  account  of  some  passages  in  Buchanan 
his  Chronicles  Plutarches  lives  yea  they  will  not  onlie  talk  of 
what  hes  passed  in  former  ages  but  in  ther  pedegree  will  almost 
ascend  near  Adam  as  if  they  had  an  Ephemerides  of  all  ther 
ancestors  lives.  They  treat  strangers  with  great  civility  and 
gives  them  such  as  the  place  does  afford,  without  ever  demand- 
ing any  payment.  There  among  them  who  excell  in  poetrie 
and  can  give  a  Satyre  or  Panegyrick  extempore  on  sight,  upon 
anie  subject  whatsomever 

The  southern  part  of  this  Isle  is  called  Sleatt.  it  exceeds 
anie  part  of  the  whole,  as  to  its  woods.  Its  cheife  place  is 
Armidill  one  of  the  chief  places  of  residence  belonging  to 
McDonald  it  is  adorned  with  a  house  fine  gardens  with  all  sorts 
of  fruits,  it  hes  also  a  wood  &  park.  It  is  verie  commodious 
for  its  fishing  of  all  sorts.  On  the  west  side  of  it  within  two 
miles  lyes  a  fort  called  Dunskaich  not  far  from  Locheafort 
which  excells  all  other  Lochs  for  the  bigness  of  its  herring. 
In  this  part  of  the  Countrie  there  is  a  Coave  from  the  one  end 
to  the  other,  twelve  mill  in  length  the  eastside  of  Armidill 
lyes  Island  Diermand  a  safe  harbour  near  Lochdale  betwixt 
which  and  the  Kyle  is  a  wood  two  mile  in  length. 

To  the  north  of  which  is  Strath  its  chieff  place  is  Kilmirrie, 
belonging  to  McKinon.  On  the  east  side  of  Strath  are  the 
Isles  Croulin,  Ilan  ni  liy  (and  Scalpa  2  mile  in  length)  to  the 
north  of  which  is  portrie  a  most  excellent  harbour  for  ships  it 
abounds  with  all  sorts  of  fish,  severall  rivers  glide  into  it 
abounding  with  salmond.  Opposite  to  this  Lough  lyes  Rasay 


222  SKY 

5  mile  in  length,  it  is  beautified  with  house  and  yairds  with 
all  sorts  of  fruits,  on  the  east  side  of  which  is  ane  excellent 
Quarrie.  here  is  latelie  found  a  huge  Mass  of  lime  whit  as 
snow.  In  the  midle  of  this  Isle  is  a  rock  Duncan  of  such 
height  as  takes  a  view  of  the  whole  Isles.  It  hes  its  name 
from  Cannus  whom  they  relate  to  be  Denmarks  son,  who 
being  banished  Sky.  possessed  himself  of  this  rock. 

In  the  west  wing  of  this  Isle  is  a  mountaine  of  a  great  hight 
covered  with  snow  all  summer,  it  is  of  universall  vertue  as 
appears  by  the  snow  which  is  found  to  be  congealed  into 
Crystall  of  the  shape  of  a  Pyramid,  some  peices  quadrangular 
octangular  triangular,  the  Ladies  in  this  Isle  have  a  great 
many  of  them. 

To  the  West  lyes  the  Isles  Soa  bretill  benorth  it  lyes  buia  n 
mile  in  circumference,  not  within  a  canon  shot  of  Land,  there 
is  no  access  to  it  but  at  two  narrow  passes  which  if  secured  it 
beis  Invincible.  It  is  opposit  to  the  mouth  of  Lochbrackidil. 
The  chiefest  place  in  this  part  of  the  Isle  is  Dun  vegan  belong- 
ing to  McLeoid,  it  is  built  upon  a  rock  at  the  head  of  Loch 
fallort  commodious  for  its  fishing  and  a  good  harbour,  in  this 
Loch  lyes  Ilan  Isa. 

There  remains  three  things  of  which  this  Isle  makes  its 
boast  and  these  verie  remarkable  in  all  preceding  ages,  it  is 
ordinar  saying  with  the  inhabitants,  they  can  never  be  ruined 
as  long  these  three  ar  to  the  fore.  The  first  of  which  is  a 
well  in  the  parochin  of  Uig  the  2d  Loughsent  dulce  3d  Hehri 
rock,  all  three  within  nine  mile  circumference.  As  to  the 
first  its  unparalelled  for  its  goodness,  ther  one  other  excepted. 
the  second  being  but  ane  effect  of  ane  more  noble  cause  we 
will  first  speak  of  the  Cause  and  nixt  of  the  effect  the  Cause  is 
Loughsiant,  or  hollowed  Lough  in  the  side  of  it  is  an  principal  1 
spring  beside  which  is  (a  botle).1 

This  well  is  not  only  by  the  Inhabitants  in  this  Isle  but 
also  by  all  the  ^Ebuds  and  Continent  esteemed  a  Catholicon 
for  all  deseases  which  occasion  the  resort  that  is  to  it  from  all 
airts.  Severalls  by  it  have  been  restored  to  ther  health 

1  The  word  'botle,'  within  round  brackets,  is  meaningless.  It  is  clearly 
enough  written  in  Taitt's  transcript  for  Macfarlane,  but  in  the  MS.,  from 
which  he  copied,  the  word  seems  to  be  '  bath.' — ED. 


SKY  223 

others  to  engage  ther  coming  to  it,  ty  themselves  by  a  vow,  < 
which  they  endeavour  to  perform,  the  Loch  will  not  exceed 
200  paces  in  circumference.  about  it  round  ther  are  24 
herbrys1  all  of  which  pay  this  Lough  the  tribute  of  there 
water,  its  surrounded  with  a  fair  wood  which  none  presumes 
to  cutt  and  such  as  have  attempted  it,  have  been  observed  to 
tryste  either  at  that  Instant  or  therafter  with  some  signall 
Inconvenience.  As  to  the  second  thing  the  Dulce  the  water 
from  the  well  running  over  it,  gives  it  a  yellow  tincture  which 
renders  it  pleasant  to  the  taste,  it  is  good  for  some  deseases. 
ther  is  another  effect  the  water  produces  under  the  sands  over 
which  it  runs  are  found  stones  of  a  finger  lenth  and  pyramid 
shape  which  they  call  bots  ston  because  it  kills  worms  in  horse 
which  they  call  bots.  this  is  confirmed  by  dayli  experience, 
they  drink  of  the  water  wherin  it  is  steeped,  it  is  to  be  found 
no  where  else  but  here.  To  the  above  mentioned  Lough 
Mackdonald  brought  sevin  fair  trouts,  the  product  of  which 
now  innumerable.  On  the  West  of  this  lyes  a  strong  rock 
bord  cruin  or  round  table  according  to  Irish  it  is  Invincible,  it 
fears  no  Canon  one  man  is  able  to  defend  it  against  a  whole 
fleet,  there  is  no  access  to  it  but  in  one  narrow  place  and 
that  by  climbing  it  hes  a  good  well. 

Duntalme    the    chieff    place    of    Residence   belonging   to 
M°  Don  aid  built  upon  a  rock  200  fathom  above  the  sea. 


D  under  ig. 
Trod  a. 


1  The  word  '  herbrys '  seems  to  be  'springs'  in  the  badly  written  MS.  from 
which  Macfarlane's  transcriber  copied.— ED. 


224  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

ADNOTATA  ad  DESCRIPTIONEM  duarum  praefec- 
turarum  ABERDONI^E  et  BANFI^E 
in  SCOTIA  ULTRAMONTANA. 

Duae  ha?  Praefecturae  Grampios  montes  et  Beam  flu vi urn  a 
meridie,  Speam  autem  rapidissimum  fluvium  non  tota  ipsius 
longitudine,  sed  jam  emensum  Badenocham  et  Strath  Speam, 
tractus  terrarum  ad  eum  positos,  ab  occasu  limites  habent.  At 
ingentis  sinus  pars,  qui  Ptolomeo  Varar,  hodie  Murray  fyrth, 
eis  praetenditur  ad  Boream ;  csetera  aperto  Oceano  pulsantur. 
Proximae  sunt  provinciae  ad  meridiem  Mernia  et  nonnulla 
Angusiae  pars,  ad  occasu m  Badenocha,  Strath  Spea,  et  Moravia? 
nonnulla  pars.  Ccelum  ut  in  hoc  climate  frigidiusculum,  inas- 
suetis  et  calidiore  aere  natis :  temperatum  tamen  et  salubre. 
^Estates  nonnimquam  imbribus  spem  messis  retardant,  non 
fallunt.  Hyemes  supra  fidem  climatis  mites,  quod  exteris  hue 
advectis  Danis,  Prussis  Polonis  mirum,  cum  apud  eos  terra 
totam  hyemem  perpetuis  nivibus,  rigido  gelu  concreta,  ac  abdita 
lateat.  Nullus  hie  hypocaustorum  usus ;  luculenter  foci  instru- 
untur  effossa  gleba  nigra,  bituminosa,  non  ilia  levi  et  fungosa, 
sed  gravi  et  solida :  haec  ad  ventos  et  solem  siccatur  non  ex 
fluminum  alveis  aut  paludibus,  ut  apud  Belgas,  depromta  sed 
passim  in  superficie  telluris,  cespite  remoto  se  prodit;  cujus 
haec  causa  et  origo.  Cum  ante  aliquot  saecula,  omnia  silvis  in- 
horrescerent  magno  agricultural  impedimento,  desectis  iis,  aut 
aevo  putrescentibus,  supercrevit  muscus,  udis  potissimum  et 
depressis  locis :  muscus  hie  primum  levis  et  fungosus  sed  novo 
singulis  annis  accrescente  auctus  induruit,  et  in  terrain  solidam 
pinguem  abiit,  non  illam  sane  aratris  utilem,  nisi  combustam, 
turn  enim  cineribus  mirum  in  modum  luxuriant  segetes :  post 
unum  aut  alterum  annum  novis  ignibus  novi  cineres  habeantur 
necesse  est.  has  terras  avide  agricolae  appetunt,  hoc  com- 
pendio  letaminis  allecti.  Tellus  ipsaad  octo,  nonnunquam 
duodecim,  altitudine  pedes  hoc  corio  vestitur ;  sed  detecta 
aperit  ingentes  arborum  truncos  radicibus  defectos  aut  aevo 
putres,  saepe  ignibus  evictos.  In  regionibus  inferioribus 
adusc^  ipsa  littora  robora  et  quercus,  alni,  salices,  corili,  prae- 
pollebant.  in  montanis  abies,  pinaster,  picea,  quae  etiam  hodie 


ABERDEEN  -BANFF 

ut  plurimum  durant,  frequentiores :  Betula  vero  utrist^  S5S. 
communis :  sed  hsec  tanta  copia  in  inferioribus :  ubi  tellus 
agricultures  aptior,  jam  in  inopiam  degeneravit  unde  materies 
ad  sedificia  e  vicina  Norvegia  mari  devehitur,  ad  rusticam  rem 
satis  est  domi.  Silvarum  domesticarum  quod  superest  difficilis 
vectura  ex  aviis,  itineribus  asperis.  Ingenium  soli  varium ; 
ubi  procul  mari  abest,  montibus  attollitur,  inferiora  collibus 
distincta  qui  fluviis  aut  rivis  irrigantur.  ubi  variet  tellus,  in 
sequentibus  narrabitur,  at  in  genere  non  infaecunda.  quae 
humanus  usus  postulat,  si  diligentia  adhibeatur  cum  foenore 
reddit.  triticum,  secale,  hordeum,  avena  abundanter  habentur 
pisa,  faba?  ex  leguminibus,  caetera  negliguntur,  cum  tamen 
non  deessent  adhibita  cultura.  Stirpes,  herbae,  planta?,  ad 
usus  medicos  in  hortis,  campis,  montibus  non  desunt;  peregrinis 
etiam  vel  semine  vel  plantis  advectis  tellus  hospita,  quod 
quotidianis  curiosorum  experimentis  compertum  habemtis. 
adeo  ut  si  quid  desit  aut  adsit,  totum  hoc  incolarum  socordiae 
aut  industries  debeatur.  In  superioribus  et  montanis  regioni- 
bus,  invitante  locorum  natura,  pastui,  quag  vita  otiosior,  in- 
dulgetur,  at  in  inferioribus,  ubi  solum  mitius,  uberes  campi, 
colles  frugiferi,  totos  se  agriculturae  dedunt.  hoc  unicum 
studium,  nulli  loco  parcitur,  ubi  segetis  spes-,  aut  aratris  com- 
moditas  ;  non  prata,  non  pascua  aviditatem  hanc  effugiunt ;  de 
foeno  segnis  cura,  cum  eum  defectum  stramine  avenaceo  et 
hordeaceo,  quo  maxime  delectantur  animalia  domestica  hyeme 
tectis  conclusa  sarcire  experiantur.  Mare  semper  apertum  et 
navigation!  opportunum  nisi  tempestates  impediant,  quibus 
non  solum  nostrum  sed  omnia  maria  obnoxia  sunt.  Egregie 
itidem  piscosum,  sed  homines  e  foece  vulgi,  qui  huic  vitae 
sese  addixerunt,  illud  ad  quotidianos  usus  non  ad  lucrum 
ex  negotiatione  exercent,  unde  exteri,  praesertim  Belgag,  dum 
quotidie  inspectantibus  nobis  ex  halecium  aliorumc^  piscium 
captura  magnum  quantum  faciunt,  illis  quibus  hoc  studii  esse 
debet  ignaviam  exprobrare  videntur.  Quamvis  autem  littora 
haec  syrtibus,  pulvinis,  vadis  libera,  arenaceo  fundo  anchoris 
apta  sint,  importuosa  tamen  et  paucis  portubus  quorum 
postea  erit  meminisse,  navibus  praesertim  majoribus  pervia. 
Flumina  mirum  in  modum  piscibus,  salmonibus  potissimum  259. 
fueta  :  quibus  naves  aliquot  quotannis  oneratae,  aliisc^  quae 

VOL.  II.  P 


226  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

regio  fert  mercibus,  referunt  quae  domi  non  sint,  aut  si  super- 
abundaverint  merces,  redit  pecunia.  huic  piscaturae  tanto 
studio  opera  impenditur,  quanta  socordia  oceani  opes  negli- 
guntur.  si  incolarum  ingenia  speetentur,  cum  his  locis  debeam 
natales  modeste  dicendum  est,  et  in  hac  parte,  ut  etiam  ubiq^ 
veritati  litandum  est :  attamen  ne  quid  supra  veritatem  dicam, 
qui  haec  loca  apprime  norunt  fatebuntur  incolas  mitioribus 
ingeniis,  subacto  judicio,  cultura  animi,  morunu^  vicinis 
omnibus,  praesertim  vero  qua  regnum  nostrum  hinc  in  septen- 
trionem  et  occasum  vergit  praepollere:  debetur  hoc  ex  parte 
peregrinationibus  apud  exteros  et  Athenseo  Aberdonensi  quo 
undiq,,  confluunt  quam  multi :  juventus  e  montanis  ad  de- 
ponendam  nativam  feritatem,  alii  ut  rudimenta  pietatis  et 
scientiarum  altiorum  suscipiant,  et  se  pares  negotiis  vel 
pnvatis  vel  publicis  praestent.  Jam  si  humiliorem  sortem  et 
vulgus  spectes,  agriculturae  plurimum  student,  aut  vilioribus 
artificiis  se  dedunt,  quae  vix  fceliciter  exercent,  nonnulli  tamen 
emergunt.  At  pars  melioris  notae  aut  claris,  natalibus  edita, 
cives  etiam  oppidaniq^,  a  primis  annis  literis  exercentur,  adultis 
peregrina  educatio  cordi  est.  Negotiatio  civibus  et  urbanis 
relinquitur.  Meliores  magno  suo  malo,  id  vitae  genus  ut 
natalibus  suis  impar  dedignantur,  unde  inopia,  ad  quam 
levandam  ad  tractanda  arma  se  accingunt,  quae  multis  locis 
apud  exteros  et  potissimum  Belgas,  Germanos,  Gallos  semper 
amicam  et  illis  adamatam  gentem  jam  a  multis  annis  cum 
laude  exercuerunt,  ingeniis  enim  acribus  et  fervidis,  sive- 
Musis  sive  Marti  se  mancipent,  non  parum  proficiunt. 
Quibus  aetas  deferbuit,  domi  otium  in  villis  et  praediis  suis 
agitantes,  urbanam  vitam  rusticae  posthabent,  oppida  nisi 
negotiis  invitantibus  raro  visentes.  Sed  nec^  mercatores  et 
negotiatores  urbani  hanc  otii  notam  eft'ugiunt ;  horum  quam-' 
plurimi  opibus  aucti,  domi  desides  reliquam  vitam  laboribus 
immunem  transigunt.  Majoribus  nostris  parsimonia  in  virtu- 
tibus  habebatur,  hodie  commerciis  peregrinis,  alii  mores 
imbibiti,  ebrietas,  commissationes,  vestium  luxus,  qua1  multis 
pauperiem  fecere,  nee  tamen  absistitur.  Flumina  diversorum 
generum  piscibus  abundant,  supra  casteros  truttis,  quorum  sex 
distincte  habentur  species,  omnes  sapidissimi  et  non  ingrata 
palato  nec^  negantur  aegrotis  cum  saxatiles  sint,  nee  habitent 


ABERDEEN— BANFF 

nisi  puras  etlimpidas  aquas;  nullus  rivusqui  non  mirum  quan- 160. 
tu in  iiis  seateat.  Flumina  haec  postea  dicenda  ferunt  conchas 
margaritiferas  unde  quandoq^  uiiiones  pretio  digni  habentur. 
Concha1  hfe  limoso  fundoinveniuntur.  expiscandi  ars  vilioribus 
relinquitur,  qui  ignari  artis,  sajpe  inanes  redeunt.  Non 
desunt  volatilium  varia  genera,  sive  aquis  sive  montibus 
deleetentur,  unde  aucupii  frequentis  occasio.  Est  ferina 
venatio  cervorum  ac  damarum,  sed  nemorum,  silvarum  et 
nioiitiuin  propria,  hac  prae  caeteris  majores  nostri  unice  delecta- 
bantur.  Noxia  et  gregibus  infesta  anirnalia  absunt  praeter 
vulpes  easc^  raras,  lupi  enim  jam  tantum  non  interiisse 
creduntur,  aut  si  qui  sint,  procul  a  mitioribus  plagis  et  homi- 
nuin  cultu  absunt.  Serpentum  unicum  genus,  saxosis  montibus 
aut  muscosis  ericetis  abditum,  unde  ab  illis  parum  periculi. 
Bufo  ranis  ne^,  quod  sciam,  aliud  venenatum  reperitur. 
Habentur  diversis  locis  lapidis  arenacei  venae  eaeq^  multorum 
generuui  qui  politi,  et  artifici  manu  in  varias  formas  secti, 
marmoris  defect um  supplent,  aedificiis  decoram  venustatem 
addunt.  Lapidis  calcarii  tanta  copia  ut  nonnullis  tractibus 
ad  ietandos  agros  adhibeatur,  unde  segetum  eximia  foelicitas ; 
multi  solo  hoc  letamine  ad  effoetos  agros,  sic  prosecuerunt,  ut 
censum  auxerint.  sunt  itidem  lapidum  molarium  diversa  genera 
necnon  lapidum  sectilium  ad  tegulas  et  imbrices  tectorum 
satis  est.  Nequeo  mihi  temperare,  quin  describam  lapilli 
genus  his  locis  quasi  peculiare,  nulli  scriptori  hactenus  cogni- 
tuni  aut  memoratum,  quod  miror  quomodo  Boetii  nostri 
diligentiam  eftugerit  qui  hie  maximam  aetatis  partem  egerit, 
in  talibus  saepe  nimius ;  non  ille  lapillus  aut  pretiosus  aut 
pellucidus;  huic  materia  durissima  et  fragillissima  silex,  cujus 
hie  plus  satis  est:  lapilli  hi  artem  referunt,  sed  qualem  ex  tarn 
fragili  materia  nemo  artifex  assequatur ;  duabus  formis  reperi- 
untur,  una  ferro  hamati  teli  persimilis,  in  tria  distincta  capita 
desinens  triangula  figura:  altera  species  venabuli  ferrum  plane 
refert  magnitudine  sicut  colore  varia,  duum  aut  unius  aut 
dimidiati  pollicis,  crassities  ad  duorum  aut  unius  frumenti 
granorum  accedit;  totus  asper,  impolitus.  manent  tanquani  j/;/. 
feiTamentorum  vestigia,  quae  levigari  desiderent  ac  latera  omnia 
acuta;  solo  hoc  lapilli  hi  mirandi  casu  aliquando  in  agris,  in 
publicis  tritist^  viis  reperiuntur,  nunquam  autem  vestigando 


228  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

inveniuntur.  hodie  fortasse  reperias,  ubi  heri   nihil.     Item  a 
meridie,    ubi    horis  antemeridianis    omnia  vacua   et    haec   ut 
plurimum  sudo  ccelo,  aestivis  diebus ;  rettulit  mihi  vir  probus  et 
fide  dignus  sibi  equo  iter  agenti,  in  summa  ocrea  unum  reper- 
tum,  idem  contigisse  scio  faeminae   equo   vectae,  quae  unum  e 
sinu  vestis  deprompsit.    Hos  vulgus  patrio  sermone  (Elf  arrow- 
heads) vocant.     Si  interpreter! s  latine,  ferreas  [sic]  sagittarum 
cuspides  quibus  lamiae  sagittant,  sonat.     Faunos  enim  lamiasc^ 
et  id  genus  spirituum  Elfs  nominant ;  de  his  haruinc^  apud  eos 
sagittarum    usu,  ea  fabulantur,  multiq^  credunt,  quae   chartis 
dare   ineptum    esset.    formas    et    magnitudines    curavi    adji- 
ciendas.   sed  de   his   plus   satis.      Manent   adhuc   paganism! 
vestigia,  non  in  animis  hominum  sed  locorum  ab  iis  cultui 
dicatorum:  visuntur  septa  ingentium  saxorum  in  orbem  dis- 
posita,  unum   latitudine  conspicuum  obversum  austrum,  arse 
locum   praebuisse  videtur.    Saxa   haec  difficili  vectura  saepe  e 
longinquo  petita.     Sunt  etiam  nonnullis  in  collibus,  etiam  in 
fastigiis    rnontium,  immensi  lapidum    minorum    cumuli,  ante 
Christianismum  procerum  tumuli,  nam  disjectis  et  erutis  o^sa 
inventa:     sunt    etiam    lapides   aut    saxa    erecta,    longitudine 
insignia:  quaedam  figuris  inscriptis,  at  nuilis  literis,  creduntur 
victoriarum  aut  cladium  monumenta,  quarum  memoria  inter- 
cidit.       Nundinae    frequentes    et   celebres   aperiente  se  anno, 
donee   brumales   dies,    hie    breviores    prohibeant,   totis    liisce 
regionibus  agitantur,  nulla  fere  ecclesia  parochialis  qua1  non 
suas  habeat,  pleraeq^  plures,  quae  referre  otiosi  est.     Jam  ad 
situm  singulorum  districtuum  properanti  moram  facit,  quod 
in    iis    describendis    non    raro     Baronum    Parlamentariorum 
memenerim,  quae  vox  novitia,  quid  ea  significetur  dicendura. 
Dignitatum    et   honorum   gradus  Romanis   incogniti   hue  me 
impulerunt.  sic  igitur  habe.     Antiquissimaet  nobilissima  apud 
262.  nos  dignitas  etiam  suscepto  Christianismo,  Ab-Thanorum  et 
Thanorum  nomine  habebatur.     Jam  a  multis  saeculis  dignitas 
ilia  evanuit,  manet  nomen,  multis   praediis  inde   hodie  ad  hue 
nomen    referentibus.       Postea   auctis    rebus    supremus    rcgni 
senatus    diversis    ordinibus    distinctus    est,    quibus    omnibus 
princeps    prasidebat,   huic    senatui    intercedente    illo,    rertim 
agendarum  nullum  jus,  annuente,  leges  figebantur  et  refige- 
bantur.     Constabat  aiitem  his  Ordinibus  :  Duces  si  qui  essent ;    ; 


ABERDEEN— BANFF  229 

non  raro  autem  nulli  erant,  Marchiones,  Comites,  Vicecomites 
et  Barones  quos  Parliamentarios  voco,  (consessui  enim  huic 
Parliamento  nomen)  unum  Ordinem  explebant.  ex  his 
Marchiones  et  Vicecomites  nuperi  admodum  apud  nos : 
Comitum  qui  patria  voce  Earls,  et  Baronum  Parlamentariorum 
qui  Lords,  prae  caeteris  antiquior  dignitas;  Barones  vero  sic 
simpliciter  dicti  cum  reliqua  nobilitate,  quorum  ingens  et 
numerus  et  robur,  ut  quibus  regni  vires  stant,  per  delectos  e 
suis  ad  vitandam  turbam,  alterum  ordinem  constituebant. 
Tertium  itidem  cives  ab  oppidis  et  urbibus  suis  delegati. 
Episcopi  itidem  dum  essent,  et  antiquioribus  temporibus,  illis 
adjunct!  caeteri  Praelati,justum  senatum  explebant.  hi  propter 
sacrarum  rerum  reverentiam  primi  censebantur.  Equestris 
autem  honos  apud  majores  nostros,  magni  habitus,  nee  nisi 
justa  de  causa  etiam  honoratissimis  collatus,  virtutis  militaris 
praemium  erat,  ut  nunc  alia  rerum  facie,  postquam  ad  fora,  ad 
urbes  descendit  a  melioribus  neglecta  eviluit.  maxime  autem 
cum  non  ita  pridem  emendicato  a  Principe  monopolio  hsere- 
ditarius  facttis  venalis  omnibus  patuit.  Armigerorum  qui  in 
vicina  nobis  Anglia  frequentes,  nullus  apud  nos  usus.  Hie 
etiam  admonitum  lectorem  meum  cupio,  cum  paucis  pagis 
regnum  nostrum  ut  plurimum  habitetur,  non  ideo  infrequen- 
tiam  incolarum  aestimandam.  cujus  rei  causa  haec  est.  Coloni 
agriculturae  studiosi  jam  ab  initiis  rerum  videbantur  sibi  pagis 
arctari  nec^  in  tanta  vicinia  rei  rusticae  satis  prospectum ; 
primum  enim  in  pagos  divisae  regiones  fuerant ;  horum  singulis 
tantum  arabilis  soli  tributum  quantum  quatuor  aratris  singulis 
annis  proscindi  posset ;  hae  sectiones  terrarum  prisca  lingua 
Daachs  vocabantur  quae  pagum  significat.  manent  adhuc 
multis  locis  in  superioribns  regionibus  et  agnoscuntur  termini 
quanquam  divisis  sedibus.  At  desectis  silvis,  non  jam  quatuor 
aratra  sufficiebant.  finium  lax itas  Agriculturae  officiebat,  unde 
domini  divisis  agris,  singulis  ad  facultatum  rationem  terminos 
posuerunt,  sic  ut  continuae  non  contiguae  sedes  essent:  memini 
me  primis  meis  annis  hujus  rei  exempla  vidisse;  statim  desertis 
pagis,  singuli  in  sua  demigrarunt,  ubi  vena  aliqua  uberioris  soli 
invitaret,  hie  lares  fixi,  hodiec^  sic  manet.  Sed  jam  singula 
lustremus. 

Praefecturae  hae  varias  provincias  et  tractus  in  se  continent, 


230      ABERDEEN— STRA-DOWN— MORT-LICH 

quorundam  nominum  ratio  dari  potest.  Strath  enim  vox  qure 
nonnullis  praefigitur  vallem  aut  tractum  montibus  obseptum 
prisco  sermone  denotat.  Inner  et  Abir  quandoc^  confluen- 
tiam  fluminum  aliquando  fluminis  ostia  significant,  at  qui 
Marriae,  Buchaniae,  Boenae,  Banfiae  etyma  vestigaverit,  nee  ille 
operam  luserit.  Incolae  Ptolomeo  Taezali,  et  extimum  promon- 
torium  qua  terra  in  ortum  procurrit  Taezaluni  promontoriuni 
(hodie  Buchanness)  nomine  nostris  historicis  ignoto. 

STRATH-AVINIA.     STRA-DOWN. 

Regiuncula  haec  tota  mediterranea,  Marchionis  Huntilaei 
avitum  patrimonium,  ad  decursum  Avinni  amnis  jacet,  quern 
omnium  universi  regni  nostri  limpidissimum  et  purissimarum 
aquarum  esse  retulit  mihi  Timotheus  Pont,  qui  universa  lustra- 
verat,  sed  nulla  inde  nota  laudabilis  telluris,  est  enim  admo- 
dum  macra,  parca  segete  et  nonnullis  annis  vix  maturescente, 
unde  incolis  maxima  semper  in  pastu  spes,  quae  illos  nunquam 
elud-it.  Avinius  (Awen)  ex  asperrimi  et  nivalis  Montis  Binawen 
(Bin  autem  elatum  ac  asperum  montem  lingua  prisca  denotat) 
dicti  jugis  e  lacu  exiguo  profluens,  post  pauca  passuum  millia, 
fluviolum  Bulg  e  lacu  ejusdem  nominis  effusum  a  dextris  sus-. 
cipit,  dein  per  scopulosam  et  confragosam  vallem,  torrentis 
ad  modum  praecipitatus  multis  undic^  susceptis  rivulis,  ad 
36/,.  infimam  vallis  partem  Liffetum  flu vi urn  multos  secum  rivos 
trahentem  a  dextris  itidem  accipit,  et  toto  cursu  nisi  ad 
principia  in  arctum  tendens,  ad  Balnadallach  arcem,  extra 
Strath  Aviniam,  Spaeae  miscetur:  ad  confluentes  Avinii  et  Liffeti 
sunt  parietinae  antiquae  arcis  Drim-min.  supra  ad  Liffetum 
Blair-Findie  sedet,  Caetera  tenent  casju  rusticanae  per  valles 
horum  fluviorum  sparsae,  et  quantum  vis  asperitas  montium  pro- 
hibere  videatur,  non  infrequenter  tamen  habitatur  a  t-on- 
fluentibus  Bulg  fluvioli. 

BALVANIA,  BALVENIE  VEL  MORT-LICH. 

Balvauia  sequitur  mitioris  aliquantulum  soli,  tota  tanien 
montibus  horrens ;  a  Danis  qui  haec  loca  etiam  appetierant 
nomen  sortita,  (adeo  nihil  ab  iis  non  tentatum.)  Bal  enim 
villam  aut  pagum  significat,  cui  Van  pro  Dan,  levi  metathesi 


ABERDEEN—  MORT-LICH— STRATH-YL  A      231 

literarum  adjecta  est.  hsec  autem  literarum  transmutatio 
priscae  lingua  familiaris,  et  pro  elegantia  sermonis  agnoscitur. 
hunc  tractum  iritersecat  Fiddich  fluvius  amcenus,  qui  suscepto 
Kinnes  fluviolo,  multis  aliis  ignobilibus  rivulis  ut  in  regione 
montana  par  est,  in  Speam  se  fundit.  ad  hunc  tractum  perti- 
nent fontes  Ylae  fluvii,  a  quo  proxime  dicenda  regio  nomen 
habet.  Caeterum  Fiddichi  fontes  non  sunt  hujus  agri.  Tractus 
ad  ejus  fontes  Glenfiddich  dictus  cum  arce  Achindown  huic 
in  sacris  adnexus  est.  At  jurisdictio  Marchionum  Huntilaei 
est,  totus  nemorosus  et  gramine  laetus.  Ad  Fiddichi  ripas  est 
arx  Balvaniae,  unde  tractui  nomen:  paulo  inferius  ad  eundem 
fluvium  Kinin-noway.  ad  Rinnes  vero  ad  unum  a  dicta  lapidem 
Mortallich  Ecclesia  unde  trequenter  toti  regioni  nomen.  Prima, 
ante  aliquot  saecula,  Episcoporum  et  antiquissima  Episcopo 
Beano.  Ad  Achl uncart  villam  vix  mille  passus  a  via  regia 
qua?  Elginam  in  Moravia  ducit,  rupes  est  et  vena  nobilium 
cotium  quarum  quaedam  asperae,aliae  lenes,  hae  durae,  illae  molles, 
aqua  aut  oleo  aciem  trahentes,  tanta  autem  copia  ut  toti 
Britannia?  sufficere  possint.  his  tegularum  vice  ad  tecta  aeedi- 
ficiorum  vicini  utuntur:  ad  Balvannam  autem  scaturigines  sunt 
aquae  aluminosae  et  intra  terrain  lapidis  unde  alumen  excoquitur  265. 
venae.  Ditio  haec  jam  inde  a  Jacobo  secundo  ejus  nominis 
hoc  est  ab  anno  1440,  ad  Comites  Atholiae  Stuartos  spectavit, 
qui  fratrem  uterinum  hac  donavit ;  qua  stirpe  deficiente,  earn 
sibi  pacta  pecunia  asseruere  Barones  Parlamentarii  de  Saltoun, 
ab  illis  eodem  jure  ad  Inneseorum  familiam  transiit:  nunc  earn 
eodem  jure  Comes  Rothesiae  tenet. 


STRATH-YLA. 

Ubi  jam  montes  deficere  incipiunt,  Strath- Yla  ad  ripas  ejus 
fluvii  porrigitur,  qui  magnis  et  sinuosis  flexibus  primum  in 
ortum  dein  in  Boream  conversis  undis,  iterum  ad  ortum 
aestivum  deflectens  Dovernum  fluvium  paulo  supra  Rothe- 
mayum  subit.  Districtus  hie  feraci  solo  et  segete  et  gramine 
laetus  multum  juvante  lapide  calcario,  cujus  hie  tanta  abun- 
dantia,  ut  aedificia  his  constent,  aliorum  generum  saxis  rari- 
oribus:  hie  calci  excoquendae  turn  ad  suos  usus,  turn  ut 
emptoribus  parata  sit,  non  segniter  ab  incolis  adlaboratur. 


232  ABERDEEN— AINYEE 

telis  etiam  lineis  tenuioris  fili,  rem  faciunt :  quae  tamen  omnes 
in  nundinis  a  Strath  Bogia  nomen  habent :  Keath  vicus  cum 
Ecclesia  ad  ripam,  stato  mercatu  singulis  'septimanis  loci 
opportunitate  allicit  e  superioribus  locis  homines,  paratis 
semper  emptoribus.  Est  autem  ad  viam  regiam;  picric^  nobiles 
inferioris  notae  Barones  nonnulli  hie  aedes  habent.  vix  ullae  quae 
arcium  nomen  mereantur.  cum  totus  hie  ager  in  multos  dominos 
partitus  sit,  ilium  a  Strath  Bogia,  juga  excelsi  montis  Ballach 
dicti  dividunt,  ab  Ainia  tractus  humilium  collium  qui  Alt- 
mor  dieuntur. 


AINIA  AINYEE. 

Regiuncula  haec  ab  occasu  Speam  fluvium,  ad  Boream  sinum 
Oceani  jam  mihi  dictum,  ad  ortum  vero  Boenam  regionem 
limites  habet.  Mediterranea  contingunt  Strath  Ylam.  tota  haec 
frugibus  dicata,  numquam  coloni  spem  fallit:  gramine  parco 
tamen  et  quanquam  Moravia  divite  solo,  miti  caelo,  frugibus  et 
fructibus  supra  omnes  cis  Deam  provincias  palmam  ferat,  Ainia 
tamen  frugibus  par  fructibus  hortensibus  inferior  incolarum 
vitio  potius  quam  terrae  genio;  mare  piscosum.  Hie  deficiente 
calce,  agri  Oceano  vicini  alga  marina  stercorantur,  cujus  magna 
vis  accedente  bis  quotidiano  aestu  in  littus  ejicitur.  adsunt 
servi  observatis  horis  et  ne  quid  pereat,  recedente  aestu,  algam 
fugientem  retrahunt,  sese  undis  saeva  hyeme,  etiam  noctu  im- 
mergentes.  Caeterum  labor  hie  non  his  locis  proprius,  sed  quam 
late  patent  littora  et  mare  propinquum  omnibus  communis  nisi 
scopuli  prohibeant.  Ripae  Speae  assidet  Bog  of  Gicht,  arx, 
culta,  laxa,  in  magnam  altitudinem  evecta  et  supra  omnes 
alias  harum  regionem  splendida,  cui,  sive  voluptatem  sive 
usum  spectes,  nihil  desit:  hortis  amaenis  et  vivario  amplo  septa 
quod  muro  firmo  clausum,  quadripartitum  est,  ad  usum  cer- 
vorum  quorum  illic  duum  generum  abunde  est,  sicut  cunicu- 
lorum,  leporum,  anserum  ferorum,  anatumq^.  loco  nomen  a 
depresso  et  silvestri  positu:  hanc  superioribus  annis  magnifies 
auxit  Marchio  Huntlaeus  totius  hujus  tractus  dominus:  huic 
et  vicinae  Boenae  interjacet  silva  proceris  quercubus  adhuc  me 
juvene  vestita,  nunc  tota  excisa  in  novam  sobolem  per  vicinos 
colles  revirescit. 


ABERDEEN— STRATHBOGIE  233 


STRATH-BOGIA. 

Strath  Bogia  ampla  et  antiqua  baronia,  nunc  in  Comitatum  a 
Jacobo  Rege  evecta;  earn  Dovernus  et  Bogius  omnes  irrigant,  et 
in  ea  miscentur.  Torrentes  et  rivuli  frequentes,  quibus  ubertati 
glebae  tarn  ad  messes  quam  gramina  inultum  proficitur.  Veteri 
sevo  in  quadraginta  octo  pagos  divisa  quos  prisci  homines  ut 
dixi  Daachs  vocabant,  quorum  singulis  tantum  agri  assignatum, 
quantum  per  annum  quatuor  aratris  proscindi  posset.  Singula 
autem  aratra,  quatuor  aut  quinq^  bourn  jugis  aguntur.  unde 
non  exiguum  soli  postulatur.  cum  moris  apud  nos  sit  desectis 
messibus  per  totam  hiemem  exercere  aratra  ad  Martium  mensem 
unde  sementi  initium,  sed  non  nisi  senescente  Maio  requiescen- 
tibus,  hodie  excussis  silvis,  omniq^  agro  unde  spes  segetis  ad 
culturam  translate, omnia  plus  quam  duplicata  sunt.  Telse  linese  267. 
tenues  hie  laboratas  praecipue  commendantur,  unde  omnium 
in  vicinia  telis  eorum  qui  huic  labori  se  dederunt,  ab  hoc 
nomen  et  laus  ;  hinc  incolis  emolumentum,  qui  eas  in  nundinis 
aestivis  venales  exhibent.  Bourn  maxime  autem  ad  macellum 
gramine  saginatorum  magna  vis;  ovium,  equorum  ad  rusticos 
usus  quantum  abunde  sufficiat,  necnon  quibus  instruantur  fora. 
Incolae  ut  plurimum  Marchionis  Huntilaei  necessarii,  omnes  vero 
ejus  clientes,  jam  ante  annos  trecentos  et  quinquaginta,  hujus 
tractus  domini :  Cuminiorum  enim  familia,  quae  in  varias  pro- 
pagines  difFusa,  formidolosa  regibus,  dubiis  rebus,  laesse  Majes- 
tatis  damnata,  et  toto  regno  depulsa,  Robertus  primus  eo 
nomine  Rex,  hoc  patrimonio  auxit  Huntilaei  majores,  quorum 
antea  sedes  in  Mercia  provincia  Angliae  proxima  fuerant.  Strath 
bogiae  unde  regioni  nomen  ;  caput  est  Arx  amaeno  situ  ad  con- 
fluentes  dictorum  flumiimm,  hortis  laxis,  jucundis  ;  ad  fores 
Dovernus  ponte  saxeo  stratus  et  ad  confluentiam  fluminum 
vena  plumbi  cinerei  quod  bisemutum  dicitur.  Est  ad  Bogium 
Lismor  arx,  infra  ea  in  diversa  ripa  Gartly.  Ad  Dovernum  est 
Innermarky,  Carnborrow  item,  a  fluvio,  ad  amoenum  rivum 
Petlurg,  ad  eundem  Achanachy.  Malta  praeterea  festinanti 
indicta.  Hujus  tractus  appendices  sunt  Rothymaia  arx  cum 
adjuncta  paroecia,  tribus  infra  Strath  Bogiam  milliaribus, 
postquam  jam  Dovernus,  Bogius  et  Yla  confluxerunt;  Olim 
Baroniai"  Strathbogiae  pars,  Baronum  Parlamentariorum  de 


234          ABERDEEN— STRATI  I  BOGIE— BOYN 

Saltoun  haeredium,  nunc  ad  Gordonios  devoluta.  Item  ad 
fontes  Doverni  jacet  districtus  humili  inter  montes  positu, 
Cabrach  ei  nomen,  ad  radices  asperi  et  praecelsi  mentis  Buck 
dicti,  ex  adverse,  Strath-Aviniam  spectans  intercurrentibus 
montibus,  qui  a  [sic]  scabra  propter  praeeipitia  nomen  habent. 
Montes  hi  fiuviolum  Nigrum  dictum  tractant,  qui  Dovernum 
subit:  totus  hie  gramini  et  pascuis  sepositus,  quorum  hie  mira 
luxuries:  per  aestates  mapalibus  pastoritiis  frequens:  hieme 
ut  plurimum  demigratur.  Omnium  horum  tractuum,  regiun- 
cularumq^  de  quibus  egi,  sunt  incolae  homines  robusti,  strenui, 
industrii,  rei  militari  et  castrensi  discipline,  quando  hue  animos 
intendunt,  egregii  milites.  Sed  verum  fatear,  non  enim  gen- 
tilibus  meis  parcendum  est,  tarn  pace  quam  bello  neglectis 
musis,  Marti  litatur. 

BOENA.     BOYN. 

Boena  regiuncula  laeto  solo,  qua  mari  ad  arctum  propin- 
quior,  mediterranea  non  item.  Ab  Ainia  secundum  littora  ad 
Doverni  ostia  se  porrigit.  in  aditu  ejus  est  Cullena,  vetusta 
satis;  oppidi  jure  fruitur,  sed  portu  defecta,  vix  mediocris  vici 
nomine  digna  ;  earn  solum  commendant  ager  frugifer,  et  comi- 
tum  Finlaterii  aedes  qui  deserta  arce  Finlater  scopulo  marino 
inaedificata,  ad  milliare  unum  hue  migrarunt,  anucnitate  loci 
illecti:  illis  in  vicinia  ampla  et  opulenta  latifundia,  habent 
enim  ad  rivum,  qui  hie  confluit  mari,  ab  oppido  ad  duo  passuum 
millia  arcem  Desfoord,  nee  incle  longe  Durn ;  est  hie  in  vicinia 
Birkenbog  Abircromiorum  arx,  est  itidem  Glassach  Gordoni- 
orum.  Legendo  littus  ad  orturn  ad  quatuor  a  Cullena  milliaria 
occurrit  arx,  cui  Rupis  Boenae  Crag  of  Boyn,  nomen,  arx 
pulchra  sane,  et  versus  Banfiam  est  Buch-chragie ;  utriusque 
Dominus  a  tota  regione  titulos  habet.  Banfia  vero  oppidum 
praefecturae  hujus  caput,  ad  Doverni  ostia  sedet,  non  ilia  magni 
momenti ,  cum  locus  importuosus  sit.  Cauro  ventorum  saevissimo 
objectus,  unde  quandoc^  fluminis  [sic]  avertitur:  arcis  relliquial 
supersunt.  Gives  rari  et  negotiation!  maritimae  impares  vicinos 
oppido  agros  strenue  exercent.  Salmonum  quoc^  est  piscatura: 
non  procul  urbe  est  Inch-Drevir,  villa  Baronis  parlamentarii 
qui  ab  oppido  titulos  habet.  Longius  in  mediterraneis  est 
Park,  Gordoniorum  arx  sub  excelso  monte,  cui  nomen  Knock, 


A  B  M  RDEEN— BO  YN— BUCH  AN  235 

sed  qua?  huic  tractui  vix  accenseatur.  Praefectura  juridica 
universi  districtus  qui  Banfire  nomen  habet,  ante  Robert! 
primi  regis  aevum,  haereditaria  fuit  Curniniorum  Comitum  de 
Buchan  :  qua  familia  omnes  reliquas  universi  regni,  opibus, 
numero,  viribus  supergressa,  crimine  majestatis  cecidit,  ut 
diximus  ;  his  beneficio  regum  successere  Stuarti  quorum  familia 
superior!  saeculo, — cum  Feoda  masculina  rariora  essent  jure  con- 
nubii  ad  Duglassios  transiit,  codeine^  jure  nostra  memoria 
successere  Areskini  e  familia  Comitum  de  Marr.  Regiunculam 
vero  quam  describimus,  maximam  partem  tenent  Ogilvii  aut 
eorum  clientes.  Hujus  familise  in  his  locis  primus  Comes 
Findlater,  cujus  majores  ex  Angusia  haud  procul  Taoduno, 
hie  primum  consederunt;  jure  maritali  acquisita  haerede  San- 
claria ;  ab  his  prognata  familia  Baronum  de  Boyn  et  ab  hac 
tertia  itidem  Baronis  Parlamentarii  cui  a  Banfia  oppido 
titulus. 

BUCHANIA.     BUCHAN. 

Buchania  ab  ostiis  Doverni  initium  sumit,  secundum  littus 
porrecta,  in  ortum  tendens  ad  principium  sinus  Varar  dicti,  inde 
littora  circumflectuntur  ad  meridiem ;  in  mediterraneis  fines 
incerti,  quidam  censent  earn  adusc^  Donam  fluvium  exporrigi 
debere.  Alii  cam  Ythanno  flumine  terminant,  reliqua  Formar- 
tini  nomine  habent.  Novi  ego  antiquam  Baroniam  eo  nomine 
dictam,  quae  jam  a  variis  possessa  cum  nomine  evanuit. 
Buchaniam  totam  cam  pi  aut  colles  tenent,  totam  aratro  et  agri- 
culturae  dicatam  innumeris  rivis  irrigatam  ;  bourn  oviumc^  dives, 
nulli  montes:  unus  solum  caeteris  praecelsior,  quem  Mor-mound 
dicunt,  vix  modico  colli  in  superioribus  regionibus  par ;  nullibi 
per  totum  regnum  telluris  aequalis  et  rnontibus  liberae  cernere 
est  aequale  spatium.  Ugius  fluvius  e  duplici  fonte  manans, 
duplici  fluvio  ab  occasu  ad  ortum  means,  post  decem  milliaria 
confluunt,  et  uno  nomine  ad  Inner-Ugiam  oceanum  subeunt. 
Ythannus  vero  nec^  ille  longi  cursus,  at  multis  rivis  auctus, 
Ugio  longe  ditior  aquis,  sub  pagum  Neoburgum  (Newburgh) 
Oceano  itidem  rniscetur,  reflexo  in  ortum  hybernum  ostio, 
piano  solo  lapsus,  aestum  sentit  altius  supra  reliquos  harum 
praefecturarum  fluvios,  sed  arenosa  littora  portui  nocent,  qui 
non  nisi  minoribus  navigiis  aditur.  At  ut  redeam  unde 


236  ABERDEEN— BUCHAN 

ciigressus  sum.  Legendo  littus  a  Banfia  in  ortum  visitur  Colen 
ubi  aedes  sunt  Barclayorum  Baronum  de  Towy.  Sequitur 
Troup  superaedificata  scopulo  in  Isthmo,  nunc  neglecta. 
Sequitur  in  littore  Pennan  ubi  nobilis  molarium  lapicidina, 
qui  longe  late  evehuntur.  proxima  est  Petslego  arx  Baron  is 
Parlamentarii  e  familia  Forbesiorum.  cui  paene  contigua  Pet- 
tuliae  villa  Baronum  de  Phillorth.  dein  visitur  promontoriolum 
Kynards-head.  etad  illud,  oppidulum  Fraserburgum,ubi  moli- 
tus  oppidum  ante  annos  quinquaginta  Alexander  Fraserius 
illustris  Eques,  Phillorthi  Baro,  libertatibus  a  Rege  concessis 
locum  auxit.  Molem  etiam  lapideam  magnis  sumptibus  oceano 
objecit,  primum  loco  iniquiore,  dein  translatis  alio  operibus 
portum  munivit,  unde  hodie  locus  frequentior.  Barones 
Parlamentarii  Fraseriorum  cognominis  superioribus  sseculis 
clari,  jam  a  multis  annis,  defectu  haeredum  masculorum 
evanuere.  Eorum  qui  supersunt,  antiquissima  est  haec  de 
Phillorth,  cui  suam  originem  debent  quotquot  ejus  nominis  circa 
Innernessam  in  multas  progagines  diffusi,  ampla  tenent  lati- 
fundia.  Ad  duo  millia  progresso  occurrit  Carn-bulg  arx 
Baronum  Parlamentariorum  de  Mulkal  e  Fraseriorum  familia, 
quam  sequitur  Inner- Allochy  Fraseriorum  itidem  arx;  jam 
littora  incipiunt  in  meridiem  sinuari,  ubi  exiguus  sinus  est 
Strabeg,  olim  portu  nobilis,  nunc  arenis  paene  obstructus. 
manent  oppidi  Ratray  vestigia,  quod  nunc  portus  fortunam 
sequitur.  Boetius  noster  historicus  miratur  salmones  hunc 
solum  amnem  non  subire :  sed  nihil  hie  est  quod  majores  pisces 
suscipiat,  praeter  duos  rivulos  limosos,  aquarum  sic  indigos,  ut 
vix  pares  truttis  habeant.  Hinc  ad  austrum  ad  quinque 
milliaria  se  offert  Inner-Ugia,  ad  Ugii  ostia,  Comitum  Mares 
callorum  arx  illustris:  Baronia  haec  cum  multis  latifundiis  olim 
fuerat  Baronum  Parlamentariorum  quibus  Cheyn  cognomen, 
sed  defectu  haeredum  masculorum,  jure  connubii  ad  Kethorum 
veterem  et  nobilem  familiam  (cujus  Princeps  haereditarius 
regni  Marescallus)  transiit.  Hi  a  Pictis  originem  suam  re- 
petunt,  qui  quanvis  ante  multa  saecula  avitis  sedibus  et  toto 
regno  pulsi,  non  est  incredibile,  multis  parcitum  fuisse.  Doinui 
huic  Kethorum  super  caeteros  omnes  per  totam  hanc  pro- 
vinciam  amplissimae  fortunag  sunt ;  etiam  in  Marria  et  Mernia 
non  exigua  praedia  tenet,  de  quibus  alias.  Ad  duo  milliaria 


ABERDEEN— BUCHAN  237 

hinc,  sequitur  Taezalum  promontorium,  et  ad  illud  Peterhead,  271. 
loco  ad  rem  maritimam  opportune,  si  industria  adhibeatur, 
at  quae  fuerat  ad  portum  moles  psene  defecit.  Adhuc  legendo 
littus  prima  occurrit  memoratu  digna  hie  Bowness,  qua  voce 
curvum  promontorium  significatur.  hie  in  scopulosa  Chersoneso 
sunt  aedes  illustrissimi  Comitis  Erroll,  haereditarii  Conestabilis 
hujus  regni,  cujus  familise  insignem  originem  attexere,  non  est 
hujus  epitomes  opus:  historian!  dignam  memoratu,  historicorum 
nostrorum  consensus  non  neglexit,  quasq^  ad  Loncartim  vicum 
ad  annum  contra  Danos  Hayo  autore,  hoc  enim  huic 

familiae  cognomen,  gesta  sunt.  Avitse  illis  sedes  Errolia  cum 
amplissimis  latifundiis  ad  Tai  fluminis  ripam  ubi  hodiecj^ 
familiae  hujus  posteri  praepollent.  At  hie  in  Buchania,  casu 
Cuminiorum,  magnis  praediis  a  rege  Roberto  primo  donati 
consederunt.  Vix  mille  hinc  passus  in  arenoso  littore  cum 
Danis  pugnatum  ;  manet  loco  nomen  adhuc,  et  Ecclesiae  ibidem 
extruetae  Crow  Dan.  Ulterius  in  littore  sunt  ruinae  castri  de 
Slanis,  et  at  illud  scatebrae  aquarum  lapidescentium  oriuntur 
ad  centenos  aliquot  a  scopuloso  littore  passus.  quacunc^ 
meant  in  anfractibus  rupium,  lapidescunt :  differunt  autem 
mollitie  ac  colore  qui  illis  subalbidus,  a  nigredine  scopulorum. 
Unum  antrum  est  quod  non  nisi  recedente  aestu  adiri  potest, 
ubi  guttae  aquarum  per  scopuli  rimas  defluentes,  non  statim 
sed  lapsu  temporis  lapidem  induunt,  at  non  tota  aqua,  magni 
enim  per  lapidem  pori  ubi  pura  aqua  substitit.  qua  arescente 
nianent  pori,  sicut  in  tophis  videre  est:  ex  hoc  lapide  excoquitur 
albissima  et  tenacissima  calx  tectoriis  operibus  utilissima. 
Novi  ego  diversis  regionibus  tales  aquas  reperiri,  caeterum  in 
Britannia  vix  alia.  Jam  Ugii  cursum  persequamur,  qui 
quamvis  feraces  campos  irriget,  pauca  memoratu  digna  habet,  $?». 
cum  meliorem  ejus  partem  teneant  Comitis  Marescalli  eoloni. 
ad  Ugium  septentrionalem  est  Strechin  Fraseriorurn  arx  :  ad 
alterum  Ugium  prima  est  Fedderet  et  huic  proxima  Brucklay 
Irwinorum  familiae  de  Drum  arces,  descendendo  est  Glackriach. 
infra  hanc  ad  flumen  in  valle  fuit  Caenobium  Deir  Cistertiensis 
Ordinis.  Amoenum  et  locuples,  nunc  vix  rudera  supersunt. 
Situs  ejus  in  depressa  valle  undic^  silvis  opaca,  ubi  hodie 
nullum  fruticis  vestigium.  Georgius  Comes  Marescallus 
legatus  a  Jacobo  rege  in  Daniam  ad  desponsandam  Annam 


238  ABERDEEN— BUCHAN 

Reginam   hoc   Caenobio  ab  eo   donatus  est.   qui   tamen   plus 
damni  quam  lucri  hide  sensit.  adeo  vix  quicquam,  vere  nobili.s 
illius  viri  magnanimitati  par.  ad  mille  a  coenobio  passus,  est 
pagus  ejusdem  cum  Caenobio  nominis,  cum  ecclesia,  hide  ad 
ortum  hybernum  altero  a  fiumine  milliari  sunt  Kynmundie  et 
Ludwharn,  haec  Kethorum,  ilia  autem  Gordoniorum  villae,  ad 
ostia  vero  ex  ad  verso  Innerugiae  Craig  arx  Comitis  Marescalli. 
Nunc  sequar  ascendendo  Ythanni  alveum  ;  qui  sicut  tract  us 
illi  et  Donae  flumini  interject  us,  pinguid  agri,  innumeris  nitet 
arcibus  et  villis  nobilium,  quorum  nonnullas,  additis  domi- 
norum  cognominibus  lubet  enumerare,  patrio  autem  sermone, 
qui  latinitatem  non  sapit.  Utrinc^  ad  ostia  jam  a  multo  tempore 
non  parum  damni  sensere  domini,  feracissimis  agris  ad  mare, 
arena  sublatis  omni  cultui.     Sunt  autem  Fovern  Irviniorum. 
Knok-hall.     Udniorum  arces;  cum  pago  Newburg;  Dublertie 
major  et  minor,  Innesiorum  et  Setoniorum  villae :  Fuddes  ad 
alterum  a  flumine  lapidem,  Udniorum  :  Dudwick  ad  septen- 
trionem  Fullertoniorum  ;  ad  flumen  sunt  Abbotshall,  Forbes- 
iorum ;    ArdGicht    Kennedorum ;    Ellen    pagus    parocbialisJ 
Ochter-Ellen,  Udniorum  :  Essilmonth  Comitis  Errolia;  arx  :  a 
flumine  absunt  ad  septentrionem  Arnadge  Irwinorum :  Saok 
Buchaniorum  :     Nethermuir     Gordoniorum  :     et     Achnagat 
.  Strachanorum  :    Dumbreck   Mowettorum   vel  de  Monte-alto  : 
Petmaedden  Setonorum.  Tarves,  Tulielt,  Park  of  Kelly,  Udny, 
Udniorum  :    Tolwhon    Forbesiorum  :     Shethiun    Setoniorum  : 
Gicht,  Gordoniorum  :    Sheeves  Greyorum :  Fyvie  pulchrae  et 
nobiles    tedes   Comitis    Fermelinoduni :  Towy,   Barclay orum : 
Bucholly,  Mowettorum.  haec  loca  maximam  partem  ad  flumcn 
sunt.     At  septem  a  Banfia  milliaribus,  a  Doverno  vero  unico 
est   pagus    pulcherrimus  Turreff,    loco    venationi    opportuno 
patentibus  circum  campis,   multis  nobilium   villis  cincta,   ut 
Lathers     et     Cragstoun     Urchartorum    Murresk     Leontum, 
Delgattie  Hayorum. 

Supra  Banfiam  ad  septem  milliaria,  obversus  austrum  jacet 
pagus  paullum  a  Doverno,  Tiirravia  dictus  ad  rivum  Mii 
nominis,  ama3iio  situ,  patentibus  circum  campis,  aucupio 
praesertim  et  venationi  sic  aptus,  ut  nullus  alius  in  his  piu'fVc- 
turis,  vix  in  aliis  ei  par  sit.  Sex  inillia  indu  ad  austrum  ad 
Ythanni  ripas  visuntur  Fivaei  nomine  ajdes  magnifies  et  laxjc 


ABERDEEN— FORMARTINE  239 

quae  Fermelinoduni  Comites  dominos  agnoscunt.  Jam  per- 
sequenti  Ythanni  ripas  adusc^  Oceanum  videntur  colles  aut 
cam  pi,  pinguibus  cultis  aut  herba  laeti,  arcibus  nobilium  decori. 
Gicht  arx  est  ad  amnem  ad  eunic^  silva,  quod  nunc  his  locis 
rarum ;  legendo  ripam  occurrunt  Ochter  Ellen,  Ardgyth, 
Abbots-hall,  arces  in  vicinia,  cum  pago  Parochiali  de  Ellen  : 
et  hide  ad  quatuor  milliaria,  fluminis  ostia.  quibus  immorari 
inutile. 

FORMARTINA. 

At  quicquid  terrarum  Ythannum  et  Donam  fluvios  inter- 
jacet,  Formartinae  nomine  apud  incolas,  qui  se  Buchaniae 
acccnseri  dedignantur.  Regio  in  qua  nullum  oppidum.  Vicina 
enim  Aberdonia  negotiationem  omnem  intercipit.  At  si  soli 
ingenium  aut  incolamm  genium  spectes,  consideratione  digna, 
et  nulli  harum  praefecturarum  region!  non  par.  quamplurimas 
autem,  incolarum  frequentia,  bonitate  soli,  arcium  et  villarum 
numero  et  amoenitate,  mansuetudine  et  morum  cultu  longe 
vincit,  quae  omnia  minutim  persequi,  nimii  laboris  est.  Haec 
ab  Ythaniio  udusc^  Gareocham  et  Mariam  se  expandit.  Sed  274- 
ad  occasum  earn  a  Strath  bogia  dividit  terrarum  tract  us  nulli 
alii  provincial1  accensus,  nondum  proprii  nominis  potens,  partim 
ab  una  partim  altera  prefecture  jjus  petens;  Ecclesias  in  eo  paro- 
cliiales  InnerKeithnie,  AbirKirdir,  Forrig  Ochterles :  in  hoc 
tractu  visuntur  Frendraught  et  Kynairdy,  arces  Vicecomitum 
de  Frendraught,  cum  aliis  nonnullis  diversorum  villis. 


GAREOCHA.     GARVIACH. 

Gareocha  inter  Strathbogiam,  Marriam  et  Formartinam 
conclusa,  nullibi  mar!  contigua:  nominis  origo  incerta,  prisca 
lingua  Garve,  asperum,  saxosum,  inaequale  solum  significat, 
Ach  vero  campum  vel  campestre,  qua,1  non  respondent  regionis 
indoli.  duobus  enim  amnibus  multisq^  rivulis  intersecta,  in 
convalle  tota  posita  est.  Collibus  frugiferis  expansa,  opulenta 
et  tempestiva  messe,  nunquam  non  coloni  votis  respondens. 
Bennachius  mons  in  septem  vertices  assurgens,  asper  et  saxeus, 
ei  ad  meridiem  praetcnditur,  qui  praeternavigantibus  se  con- 


240  ABERDEEN— G  A  REOCH 

spicuum  prsebet.     Urius  amnis  non  procul  arce  Gartlye  dicta 
humili  jugo  effusus,  per  sterilem  vallem  lapsus,  per  montium 
confragosa  eluctatus,  et  campis  immissus,  mediam  inaequali  et 
tortuoso  alveo  secans,  ad  Inneruriam   urbeculam  Donae  con- 
fluit.     Ad  radices  vero  Bennachii  montis  ejusq^  longitudinem 
emensus  Gadius  fluviolus,  ad  alterum  supra  Inneruriam  milliare 
eidem    miscetur.       Hie   non   defit  venatio    leporum  jucunda, 
aquatilium    avium,   perdicum,    vanellorum    aliarumc^   abunde 
est,  gramen  parcius.     Ad  milliare  unum  supra  pagum  Inche 
dictum,  collis  est  undic^  rotundus,  mediocri  altitudine,  nullis 
vicinis  montibus  contiguus,  totus  laeto  gramine  virescens :  in 
ipso  hujusfastigio  manent  parietinae  arcis,  regis  Gregorii  prinii 
opus  circa  annum  salutis  880,  ubi  et  fato  functus :  quod  vix 
referrem  nisi  fabula  ovium  ibidem  pascentium  (non  omnium, 
sed  quorundam  aliquando)  me  monuisset,  quorum  denies  maxil- 
lares   aureo    colore   niienies   inveniuntur,    quorum    nonnullos 
vidisse  me  inemini.  unde  Boetius  nosier  parum  rei  metallica- 
gnarus,   existimavit    auri    venam    telluri   subesse.      At  uncle 
hujusce    rei    causa   sit,  scrutentur   physiologi.     tellus  exacie 
consideranti  nihil  tale  promittere  videtur.     Ad  confluentiam 
Donae  et  Urii,  posita  est  urbecula  Inneruria,  pagi  facie,  uberi 
agro,   antiqua   satis,   et  privilegiis  urbis,    ut   vocant,  regalis 
gaudens,  sed  vicina  Aberdonia  jam  a  multis  annis  commercium 
omne  ad  se  traxit ;  prioribus  saeculis  ad  ripas  praesertim  Dona-, 
omnis    vicinia  silvis    potissimum    quercus    inhorruit,  quaruin 
hodie   nee    vestigia   apparent,    adeo    nimia   copia,   dum   non 
advertitur,  nee  posteritati  consulitur,  in  inopiam  degeneravit. 
Non  longe  hinc  Robertus  i.     Rex,  aeger  et  lectica  vectus,  acic 
fudit  Joannem  Cuminium  Buchaniae  Comitem,  eoq^  certamine 
vires    illius  factionis  plane  sic  contrivit,   ut  nunquam  posiea 
surgeret.       Buchaniam    totam    infestis    armis    populatus,   ei 
vicinisc^  regionibus  inde  pacifice  imperitans.     Post  ad  annum 
1411  Alexander  Siuartus   Marriae  Comes  Donaldum  Insula- 
nuni  .Ebudarum  viribus  fretum,  circa  haec  loca,  ad  Harlauni 
vicum  cruento  praelio  vicit,  et  pacem  hisce  regionibus  dedit. 
Universa  haec  regio  incolis  frequens,  nec^  desunt  arces,  villa-, 
aedes,  hominum  genere  insigniorum.     Districtus  hujus  maxima 
pars  jam    a  multis  annis   Comitatui   Marriae  adnexa  iitulus 
cjus  hodie  auget. 


ABERDEEN— MARK  241 

MARRIA.     MARR. 

Marrise  pars  inferior  et  oceano  propior  Dea  et  Dona  flumini- 
bus  coercetur,  in  superioribus  extra  haec  flumina  expatiatur. 
longitudine  insignis,  latitudine  impar.  Qui  hos  duos  fluvios 
et  confluentes  illis  amniculos  descripserit,  omnia  quse  ad 
earn  pertinent,  paene  dixerit ;  adeo  mediterranea  montibus  et 
ericetis  abundant.  Dea  namc^  Grampios  montes  a  fontibus 
secans  adusc^  ostia  ubi  in  colles  desinunt,  toto  alveo  inter 
hos  montes  praeceps  devolvitur,  imde  maxima  liujus  provinciae 
pars  segeti  inepta,  at  quicquid  messibus  cedit,  optimae  notae  £76. 
est,  desecaturc^  tempestivis  semper  autumnis.  Montes  hi 
armentis  bourn  et  ovium  lectissimarum,  gratissimic^  saporis 
gregibus,  equis  ad  rustica  opera,  capris  etiam  in  superioribus 
oris,  satis  divites.  Lanae  et  vellera,  omnium  tractuum  a  me 
descriptorum  longe  optimae,  candore,  mollitie,  tenuitate  pili 
laudatae,  avide  expetuntur.  Non  tamen  haec  sarciunt  damnum 
inutilis  soli.  Aer  saluber,  Incolse  robusti,  sani,  et  homines 
frugi.  Tellus  arida,  et  ut  dixi,  quam  plurimis  locis  infrugi- 
fera  ingenia  incolarum  accendit.  Dea  fontes  habet  non  procul 
humilium  montium  serie  Scairsach  dicta,  qui  Marriam 
superiorem  a  Badenocha  dividunt,  ad  radices  montis  praecelsi 
Bini-Vroden  dicti,  susceptoq^  amniculo  Galdy.  nonnihil  in 
ortum  hibernum  lapsus,  statim  vero  in  ortum  se  reflectens, 
nullis  paene  flexibus  impeditus,  quanvis  altis  asperisq^  montibus 
ab  utracj^  ripa  coercitus,  celer,  limpidus,  illimis,  glareoso  semper 
alveo,  ad  alterum  supra  Aberdoniam  (cui  nova  nomen)  lapidem 
ponte  stratus,  juxta  oppidum  oceano  miscetur.  Ad  Inner-ey 
cui  ab  amniculo  Ey  nomen,  septem  a  scatebris  milliaribus, 
primum  culturam  sentit:  deinde  auctior  aquis,  quas  multi 
magnick  amnes  e  montibus  vicinis  suppeditant,  alluit  a 
dextris  Casteltoun  (villam  castelli  dixeris,)  Comitum  Mai-rise 
arcem,  cum  vicina  Ecclesia  Kindrocht.  in  adversa  ripa  est 
Innercald,  a  rivo  cui  incumbit  ei  nomen,  quam  sequitur 
Crathy  pagus  parochialis.  Paulo  inferius  a  dextris  Abirgeldie 
arx,  ubi  tractus  hie  Strath  Dea?  nomine  audit.  Hinc  Glen- 
gardina  ad  arctum,  unde  Gardinus  fluvius  manat,  reliquis 
aquis  ditior;  circa  haec  loca  montibus  arctatur  flumen,  sed 
silvae  proceris  abietibus  spectandae  non  desunt:  hie  se  tollit 
VOL.  TI.  Q. 


ABERDEEN— MARK 

mons  praealtus,  a  ceteris  quasi  praecisus,  totus  undiquac^  silva 
vestitus :  cacumina,  rupes  et  ipsum  fastigium  tenet  immen- 
>  sarum  abietum  semper  virentium  decorum  nemus,  devexa 
mentis,  camposc^  flumini  proximos,  tiliarum  et  betularum 
grata  viriditas.  Crag-Gewis  monti  nomen,  crag  montem, 
Gewis  autem  abietem  significante  ;  inter  quamplurima  nemora 
quibus  fluvius  silvescit,  in  superioribus  praesertim  locis,  mons 
hie  amoenissimus  visu.  Sequitur  Glen  Muick  exigua  vallis  ab 
amne  nomen  ei,  qui  e  lacu  ejusdem  nominis  effluens,  post  non 
multa  milliaria,  Deae  confluit,  a  dextris  ex  ad  verso  paene 
Gardini :  Infra  Glen  Muick  in  eadem  ripa  videtur  Pannanicli 
silva,  unde  materies  frequenter  Aberdoniam  devehitur  sed  ad 
vecturae  commodum  praeparata  et  dedolata  in  rusticanos 
usus.  Tigna  enim  et  integri  arborum  trunci,  aspero  et  saxoso 
itinere  nec^  deferri  possunt,  nec^  rapidissimo  flumini,  (quan- 
quam  aquarum  satis  sit)  tuto  committi.  Sequitur  in  eadem 
ripa  amcena  arx,  Keannakyll,  quae  vox  caput  silvae  significat,  ad 
secessum  voluptuarium  a  Marchione  Huntlaeo  ante  non  multos 
annos  condita  loco  undiq^  silvis  opaco,  piscatui,  aucupio, 
venationi  cervorum  et  damarum  opportune.  Inferius  legendo 
ripam,  Tanarus  amnis  Deam  subit ;  ortus  hie  e  jugis  altissi- 
morum  montium,  qui  Angusiae  et  Marriae  limites  faciunt; 
ingenti  silva  procerarum  abietum  ripae  coronantur.  Sequitur 
parochia  Birs  dicta,  quae  a  flumine  ad  fontes  amnis  Feuch 
dicti  excurrit,  ubi  superioribus  annis  ingens  betularum 
arborum  silva  regionis  inferioris  usibus  abunde  satisfecit, 
nunc  tota  dissecta  incuria  eorum  quorum  interest,  tarde  sobo- 
lescit :  nulla  telluris  ad  hoc  aptissimse  injuria.  Jam  Marria 
Deam  limitem  habet,  qui  earn  a  Mernia  proxima  ad  austrum 
provincia  dividit,  imo  Mernia  flumen  transgressa  parochiam 
Banchori  Devinici  dictam  ei  subtrahit,  ubi  non  longe  a  ripa 
est  arx  Crathes.  Thomas  Burnetus  baro,  loci  dominus,  cura 
et  ingenio  loci  genium  vicit,  consitis  enim  abietibus,  aliisc^ 
multifariam  arboribus  horridas  cautes  texit,  hortis  instruxit, 
voluptatem  induxit.  Descendendo  sequitur  Drum  Arx,  ad 
milliare  a  flumine  sejuncta,  loco  aspero  et  saxoso,  et  aedificiis 
et  hortis  egregie  culta.  Alexandrum  Irwinum  baronem, 
antiquae  et  illustris  prosapiae,  gentisq^  suas  principem  dominum 
habet:  nihil  praeterea  memorabile,  antequam  fluvius  poiitem 


ABERDEEN— MARK  243 

subeat.  At  in  superior!  regione  post  Gardini  amnis  ostia, 
tractus  est  Cromarr  dictus,  ab  omni  vicinia  montibus  divisus, 
ad  occasurn  Morvin  praecelsus  supra  caeteros  mons  et  Kilblena 
silva  terminum  faciunt,  caetera  montibus  ignobilibus  terminan- 
tur,  quamquam  autem  Deam  adusq^  pertingat,  nullibi  tamen 
infeliciore  tellure  quam  quae  flumini  proxima,  in  illis  enim 
campis  nee  segeti  nee  herbae  locus,  tota  inculta,  horridac^ 
ericetis  vestitur.  at  a  flumine  supra  milliare  unumaut  alterum, 
alia  rerum  facies,  intra  supra  dictos  montes  pandit  se  laeta 
planicies,  non  ilia  in  ullos  expansa  campos,  sed  crebris  collibus 
distincta,  tota  cereri  dicata,  vicinorum  omnium  horreum  ;  nihil 
hie  non  egregium,  nihil  non  tempestivum ;  in  quinq^  parochias 
divisa  diversos  dominos  agnoscit,  duobus  rivulis  intersecta,  et 
quod  mirere,  nullae  in  ea  arces,  nullae  insignes  villas,  nihil 
deniq^  praeter  unius  aut  alterius  arcis  parietinas.  egregie  tamen 
exculta.  Proxima  ei  adhaeret  Aboyne,  qua?  titulos  Baronis 
Parlamentarii  dat  Marehionis  H until aei  filio,  cui  vicinus  in 
valle  laeus  Achlessin,  et  ad  eum  culta  terra,  ad  fluvium  vero 
jacet  Kincardin  pagus  cum  ecelesia,  ad  viam  regiam  qua  trans-1 
mittuntur  montes;  ad  tria  milliaria  infra  hanc  Cannius 
fluviolus  Deae  se  immergit ;  tractus  hujus  amnis  amoenus,  ferax, 
conchis  margaritiferis  abundans  ad  ostia  attingit  Banchoriam 
a  nobis  jam  dictam. 

Dona  flumen,  quantum  Deae  magnitudine  impar,  tantum 
ilium  ubertate  terrae  vincit,  in  jugis  montium  qui  Strath 
Aviniam  a  Mama  dividunt,  ortum,  tenui  alveo  seeat  vallem 
Strath  Donam  dictam,  et  multis  rivis  auctum,  ad  Inner  Noch-  279. 
team,  suscipit  Nochteum  fluviolum,  paulo  inferius  Descrium,  et 
ex  adverse  Buchetum  ubi  arx  Inner  Buchet:  tractus  hie  gramine 
Inetus,  nee  desunt  segetes.  Toto  autem  cursu  fluvius  hie  non 
ut  Dea  rapidus,  sed  placidis  ut  plurimum  undis  variis  maeandris 
multurn  soli  irrigans,  quandoq^  angustiis  montium  eompressus. 
saepe  faecundas  valles  aperit ;  non  longe  a  boreali  ripa  est  arx 
Kildrummie,  vetus  ilia  regum  ut  creditur  opus,  nec^  tamen 
situ  jucunda,  neq^  foelici  solo  posita,  eampis  tamen  in  vicinia 
feracibus:  at  oppidum  in  campis  illis  eonditores  molitos  indicat 
nomen  Burrowstoun,  quod  oppidum  vel  burgum  significat,  ac 
firmo  muro  crebris  et  ingentibus  turribus  distincta,  eo  saeculo 
ad  vim  tuta:  comitum  Mania:  his  in  loeis  primaria  sedes  est.  ; 


244  ABERDEEN— MARK 

legendo  fluvii  oram  est  Ecclesia  et  parochia  cui  nomen  Forbes, 
cujus  non  erat  meminisse  nisi  ut  referunt  annales,  primus  autor 
clarissimae  in  his  oris  familiae  hie  sedes  habuerit.  Cujus  posteri 
in  his  locis  adusq^  Donae  scaturiginem  multum  pollent,  nec^ 
hie  solum  sed  in  varies  diffusi  ramos,  faecunda  propagine 
multas  illustres  familias  peperere,  quae  in  inferioribus  regionis, 
opibus  et  numero  clarae  habentur,  ad  unam  domum  omnes 
originem  referentes,  cujus  principes  viri,  quanquam  nee  stem- 
matis  antiquitate,  aut  numerosa  sobole  paucis  cederent,  procul 
hodierna  ambitione,  mansere  Baronum  Parlamentariorum 
honore  contenti,  qui  gradus  statim  ab  initio  iis  collatus. 
Hie  loci  Marria  catenam  montium  praetergressa,  parochiam 
Cletam,  arcem  Drymminor  cum  latifundiis  Baronis  Parlamen- 
tarii  de  Forbes,  Gariochse  et  Strathbogiae  subtrahere  videtur. 
At  Dona  unde  digressus  sum,  arctis  faucibus  paulum  impedi- 
tus  jam  liber,  per  amplam  et  pinguis  soli  vallem  leniter  means, 
accepto  Leochello  amne,  ad  quern  Cragivar  arx,  et  Alfordia 
parochialis  pagus  jacent,  post  quatuor  milliaria  emensa, 
angustiis  Bennachii  montis  stringitur  rupibus  et  scopulis 
horridis,  sed  campis  immissa,  amplam  et  amoenam  planitiem 
aperit.  hie  videtur  Monimosk  Forbesiorum  arx,  ubi  antea 
ejusdem  nominis  Prioratus,  ut  vocant,  cujus  latifundiis  in 
280.  privatos  usus  aversis,  aedes  quoc^  intercidere.  diverso  a  flumine 
itinere,  Clunia  arx  visitur,  nee  longe  hinc  Mulcalia,  firma  et 
egregii  operis  arx,  sedes  Fraseriorum  qui  inde  titulos  baronis 
Parlamentarii  habent.  descendendo  flumen  diversis  ripis, 
.  Kemnay  et  Fettyrneir  habentur,  ubi  iterum  fluvius  clusuris 
strictus,  non  ante  liberatur  quam  Inneruriam  subeat,  ubi 
Marria  arctatur  et  postea  toto  itinere  Donam  limitem  habet. 
Hie  in  austrum  reflexus  suscepto  Urio,  variis  meandris  campos 
cultissimos,  si  qui  in  omnibus  hisce  provinciis  secans,  primuni 
Kintoram  celebrem  ad  viam  regiam  pagum,  cui  proxima  arx 
Comitis  Marescalli,  Hall  of  Forrest  dicta,  jacet,praetergressus, 
iterum  in  ortum  flexo  alveo,  campos  feracissimos  et  spatiosos 
de  Fintray  dictos,  lenis  et  tortuosus  pererrans,  nullis  amplius 
montibus  impeditus,  ripis  tamen  altioribus  neq^  dictis  campis 
conferendis  gurgitem  trahens,  Oceano  post  aliquot  milliaria 
miscetur,  sed  arenaceo  fundo,  ostia  navibus  impervia.  intersunt 
horum  fluminum  ostiis  plus  minus  tria  millia  passuum  littoris 
arenacei. 


ABERDEEN— MARK  245 

Aberdonia  duplici  nomine,  itemc^  oppido :  ad  utriusc^  ostia 
posita  est,  quae  Nova  dicitur,  ad  Deam,  altera  Veteris  nomine 
ad  Donam  intervallo  plus  minus  mille  passuum.  Hie  Ecclesia 
Cathedralis  bono  fato  sacrilegas  manus  evasit.  plumbeo  tecto 
spoliata,  quod  damnum  hodie  tegulae  lapidea?  utcunq^  supplent. 
hie  Episcopi  dum  vigeret  honos  et  officium,  sedes,  oppidum 
ager  suburbanus  illius  erant.  nunc  sic  omnia  mutata,  ut  nee 
Episcopio  parcitum  sit,  neque  eo  diruto,  ipsis  lapidibus 
requies.  Collegium  vere  regale  Episcopus  Gulielmus  Elphin- 
stonius  ad  annum  1521  hie  struxit,  nullis  sumptibus  parcens, 
amplis  reditibus  et  agris  in  ejus  perpetuum  usum  conversis. 
vix  tamen  tanto  operi  superstes,  prospectum  ab  eo  de  magis- 
tris  eorumq^  stipendiis  omnibusc^  illis  quorum  servitutis  usus 
necessarius.  Geronticomium,  quod  in  animo  habebat,  exe-  281. 
cutoribus  voluntatis  suae,  legata  pecunia,  mandavit,  nec^  opus 
cura  successoris  sui  neglectum.  Dona  fluvius  Oceano  proxi- 
mus,  ripas  ponte  nectitur.  unius  arcus  aut  fornicis,  sed  illius 
sane  immensi,  egregii  et  firmi  operis.  nescitur  autor,  quod 
minim  cum  Deae  pons  id  non  uno  loco  testetur,  adeo  diversa 
sunt  hominum  ingenia.  Circa  pontem  et  paullum  supra  eum 
molem  lapideam  toto  fluminis  alveo  artificiose  objectam  ad 
piscaturse  compendium,  unde  Celebris  et  lucrosus  ex  salmonibus 
quaestus  non  est  opus  referre. 

Aberdonia  Nova  tribus  superstructa  collibus  editiore  positu, 
undic^  ascendendo  aditur,  exteriora  ejus,  multis  locis  tanquam 
suburbia  in  plana  expatiantur.  Gregorius  Rex  circa  annum 
890,  loci  commoditate  allectus,  jura,  immunitates  largitus  est, 
regiis  aedibus  decoravit,  quae  postea  Ecclesiae  donatae,  et  fratrum 
Trinitariorum  usibus  dicatae  sunt.  Monetariam  illic  officinam 
fuisse  arguunt  nummi  argentei  ibidem  cusi,  quorum  aliquot  a 
cive  servatos  in  rei  fidem,  adhuc  adolescens  vidisse  me  memini. 
Sed  adhuc  rebus  infirmis,  oppidum  haerebat  in  suburbio  cui 
viridis  nomen,  postea  auctis  opibus,  se  per  proximos  colles 
diffudit ;  aedibus,  plateis,  templis,  praetorio  et  quibuscunq^  aliis 
ad  urbanum  usum  necessariis  se  instruxit,  rempublicam,  magis- 
tratibus  electis  instituit,  quam  Aristocratiae  proximam  esse 
voluit,  commercia  maritima  agitavit;  ir»de  aucto  civium  numero, 
Praefecturae  sedem  juridicae,  tribunal!  Vicecomitis  ibi  locate, 
merita  est.  Collegium  fundavit  Georgius  Kethus  Comes,  regni 


246  ABERDEEN— MARK 

Marescallus,  coemptis  et  in  eum  usum  conversis  Franciscanorum 
aedibus  ad  annum  1593,  sed  tarn  tenuibus  initiis,  ut  nisi  piorum 
hominum  liberalitas  subvenisset,  jam  defecisset.  Portus  urbe 

282.  abest,  ad  mille  passus  quo  alveus  fluvii  recta  fertur,  relicto 
paulum  ad  sinistrum  oppido,  sed  allabente  aestu  omnia  adus^ 
cothonem  aquis  operiuntur,  sic  minoribus  navigiis  patet  aditus : 
majora  in  portu  deponunt  onera;  ante  has  civiles  turbas,  cives 
moliti  sunt  toto  maritime  lateri  cothonem  praetendere,  jactis 
in  id  operis  fundamentis.  At  bellicis  motibus  impediti,  non 
omissum  sed  intermissum  opus  est.  Arx  in  colle,  cui  ab  ea 
nomen,  cum  libertati  infesta  esset,  jam  a  multis  annis  diruta. 
Non  ita  pridem  tentatum  est  oppidum  ad  usus  bellicos  muniri, 
sed  infceliciter,  cum  natura  locorum  repugnet.  ex  adverse  et 
in  conspectu  oppidi,  in  flumine  exercetur  nobilis  ilia  salmonum 
piscatura,  unde  non  exiguus  civibus  quaestus ;  hie  lex  agraria 
Licurgi  locum  habet ;  tota  ilia  in  sortes  divisa  est,  quarum 
unam  solam  uni  possidere  fas.  si  altera  accedat,  vel  ut 
haeredi  vel  aliter,  alterutra  cedere  necessum  habet.  Flumen 
ad  alteram  lapidem  insigni  septem  fornicum  ponte  stratum 
est,  firma  et  duratura  ex  sectili  lapide  architectura,  Galvini 
Dumbarri  Episcopi  opus.  Proxime  oppido  ad  occasum,  in 
radicibus  humilis  collis,  cui  a  mulieribus  nomen  est,  manat 
copiosa  scaturigo  aquae  limpidissimae,  sed  acidae,  et  ferrei 
saporis,  haec  statim  se  immergit  vicino  rivulo.  creditur,  testante 
experientia,  arnica  affectis  visceribus,  similesq^  vires  aquis 
Spadanis  in  Belgio  tantopere  celebratis  habere  :  unde  et  his 
cum  illis  commune  nomen.  ad  eosdem  morbos  efficaces. 
Medici  nonnulli  nostrates  de  hisce  nostris  scripsere,  earning 
viribus  exploratis,  quae  invenerant  literis  mandavere.  Sunt 
sane  potui  suaves,  neq^  quisquam  vel  largissime  haustis 
damnum  sensit,  caeterum  vel  ad  eluendam  linteam  vestem  vel 
ad  coquendam  cerevisiam  aut  rei  culinariae  plane  inutiles  :  et 
a  natura,  ut  videtur,  ad  medicos  usus  sepositae.  Utriusc^  oppidi 

983.  Athaenaea  praeter  Philosophica  studia,  habent  theologiae,  juris, 
medicinae  et  Matheseos  Professores  :  Unde  eorum  quibus  ad 
haec  animus,  et  ingenium,  concursus  ;  hinc  prodiere  multi  viri 
egregii  et  reipublicae  utiles,  quorum  non  pauci  vitam  apud 
exteros  non  ingloriam  egerunt,  aguntq^  quorum  nominibus 
modeste  parco ;  horum  nonnulli  scriptis  suis  satis  cogniti,  aliis 


ABERDEEN— MARK  247 

latere  placitum,  cum   a   scribendi   cacoethe,  nimis   huic  aevo 
familiar!  abhorrent  abhorreantc^. 

Non  omnino  transmisi  ad  Typographum  haec  sequentia, 
nam  nihil  ad  rem  sunt. 

Multa  me  dehortabantur,  ne  calamo  manum  admoverem, 
senecta,  quae  ut  corpus  enervat,  etiam  vigor  animi  plerum^ 
vapulat  ab  ea,  mala  fides  nostrorum  procerum,  qui  ante  plus- 
culos  annos  promissis  mihi  ad  haec  studia  halcyoniis  hue  me 
impulerant,  quorum  turbulentum  regnum  quanquam  desiit, 
non  tamen,  dum  arma  tractantur,  pax  videri  potest.  Obstabat 
praeterea  intermissum  mihi  cum  Typographo  qui  Amstelodami 
agit,  commercium,  cum  illic  omnia  sicut  apud  nos,  confusa, 
pace  vix  restituta.  horum  studiorum  apud  nos  despectus  et 
supina  negligentia.  Moverunt  me  tamen  patriae,  cum  his  pro- 
vinciis  debeam  natales,  necessitudines,  lares  et  quicquid  caris- 
simum.  Impulit  me  etiam,  ut  animos  facerem  aliis,  qui  ad 
haec  idonei,  ut  provincias  in  quibus  nati,  aut  aetatem  agunt, 
vere  et  fideliter  describant  et  ne  quid  in  eorum  script! s  sit 
nimis  aut  supra  veritatem,  ne  ex  musca  Elephas  :  quo  morbo 
pleric^,  dum  narramus  nostra,  laboramus.  Vera  fidelis  et  plena 
regionum  nostrarum  descriptio  intacta  manet.  Boetius  noster 
neglectis  his,  ad  rerum  miranda  deflexit,  in  quibus  plerisq^ 
veritate  eruta,  nihil  miri.  Buchananus  vero  desultorie  haec 
praetervehitur.  Jam  mihi  venia  a  proceribus  et  nobilitate 
harum  praefecturarum  detur,  si  non  satis  honorifice,  stirpium 
latifundiorum,  art-ium^  meminerim ;  sciant  me  carceribus  2 
arctatum,  non  debuisse  in  ilia  expatiari ;  animus  mihi  solum 
fuit,  nostris  qui  hisce  studiis  pares,  veternum  excutere.  Haec 
qualiacunc^  ut  parum  historica,  lectoribus  fortasse  injucunda 
videbuntur,  cognitis  tamen  locis,  vel  mappa  adhibita,  fasti- 
dium  levabitur. 

Aliud  hujuscemodi. 

Multa  me  dehortabantur,  ne  calamo  manum  admoverem, 
senectus,  quae  ut  corpus  enervat,  etiam  ab  ea  vigor  animi 
plerumc^  vapulat,  mala  fides  eorum  Procerum  qui  ante  plusculos 
annos,  promissis  halcyoniis  me  ad  haec  studia  impulerant.  nihil- 


248  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

dum  a  typographo  transmission  eorum  quae  ad  eum  impor- 
tunis  flagitationibus  evictus,  semiperfecta,  curaveram  dari. 
horum  studiorurn  supina  apud  nos,  pace  non  satis  adulta, 
negligentia,  coactus  tamen  dedi  hoc  amicorum  votis  et 
desideriis,  eorum  praesertim,  qui  jubere  imo  imperare  poterant: 
movit  me  etiam,  ut  nostrorum  hominum  qui  huic  negotio 
pares,  studia  accenderem,  ut  provincias  in  quibus  nati,  aut  a 
quibus  non  longe  absunt,  vere  et  fideliter  describant,  et  ne 
quid  sit  nimis,  quo  vitio  pleric^  dum  nostra  narrantur,  labo- 
ramus.  Multa  sunt,  quae  sciantur  non  indigna,  intacta  adhuc. 
Boetius  noster  intactis  regionum  descriptionibus,  deflexit  ad 
rerum  miranda,  in  quibus  plerisq^  veritate  eruta,  nihil  mirum. 
cum  Herodoto  tantum  non  originem  nostram  ad  Deos  refert,  ut 
nonnulli  ejus  naevi  in  historia  retegantur,  qui  multos,  qui  nobis 
malevolebant,  scriptis  in  eum  conciverunt.  Buchananus  vero, 
cum  venia  tanti  viri  dictum  sit,  utinam  quse  prioribus  tribus 
libris  historiae  suae  scripsit,  tanquam  apparatum  ad  ipsum  opus 
seorsim  servasset :  neq^  in  supremis  sic  affectibus  indulsisset,  ut 
etiam  exteris  lectoribus,  ab  historico  in  partes  transiisse  vide- 
atur,  descriptionem  regni  desultoria  levitate  praetergressus. 
Ausim  sancte  affirmare,  jam  senex,  quae  juvenis  a  senibus 
fando  hausi,  parum  sinceri  in  historia  nostra  haberi,  a  Jacobi 
Quinti  morte,  hoc  est  ab  anno  1542,  adeo  omnia  apud  nos 
confusa,  adeo  partium  studiis  nimiis  quam  multa.  non  satis 
fideliter  in  literas  relata,  veritatem  temporis  filiam  adhuc 
occultam  expectent.  Jam  mihi  venia  a  proceribus  nostris 
detur,  si  non  satis  honorifice  eorum  stirpis,  latifundiorum 
arciumq^  meminerim.  Sciant  me  carceribus  epitomes  arctatum, 
non  debuisse  in  ilia  expatiari.  Animus  mihi  solum  in  hac 
fuit,  nostris  qui  ad  haec  idonei,  veternum  excutere  et  hoc 
specimine,  absit  verbo  invidia,  praeire.  Haec  qualiacunq^  ut 
parum  historica  legentibus  fortasse  injucunda  videbuntur, 
cognitis  tamen  locis  vel  Mappa  adhibita,  fastidiuni  levabitur. 

m.          AD  TABULAM  ABREDONENSEM  et  BANFI- 
ENSEM. 

Scotiae  tractum  ilium,  qui  quam  maxime  in  orientem  pro- 
currit,  limpidissimis  fluminibus  Dea  et  Spea  et  oceano  con- 


ABERDEEN— BANFF  249 

clusum  hac  tabula  exhibemus ;  qui  duos  Vicecomitatus 
Abredonensem  et  Banfiensem  comprehendit,  totos  trans 
Grampios  montes  ad  septentrionem  porrectos.  Regio  est  coelo 
salubri  et  dementi  satis,  quod  vicinus  Oceanus  et  frequentes 
fluvii  largiuntur.  Armentis,  frugibus,  sibi  sufficiens  aliorum 
que  defectui  large  ministrans.  Olim  tota  silvis  horrida,  quae 
nunc  in  avia  refugere,  quarum  succrescenti  soboli  pastio  aut 
satio  impedimento  est;  Unde  qui  paulo  longius  iis  absunt,  a 
vicina  Norvegia  sibi  prospiciunt  ad  aedificia  aliosq^  usus,  namq^ 
ad  ignem  nihil  opus  est ;  Terra  enim  bituminosa,  cespitesq^ 
abunde  sufficiunt  optimumq^  praebet  ignis  alimentum,  non 
solum  effossis  cespitibus,  in  superficie  terras,  sed  ad  altitudinem 
orgiae  unius  aut  alterius,  semper  paene  ubi  olim  frequentes 
silvae,  quod  testantur  radices  et  immanes  trunci  quotidie  eruti. 
Olim  regio  haec  in  provincias  quasdam  divisa.  Marriam, 
Buquhaniam,  Gariocham,  Formartinam,  Boenam,  Ainiam, 
Strath- Ylam,  Strathbogiam,  quarum  hodie  vestigia  et  nomina 
supersunt,  caeterum  omnium  distinctos  limites  definire  difficile 
esset.  Incolae  omnium  Scotorum,  qui  ultra  Grampium  montem 
sedes  habent,  bellicosissimi,  humanissimi.  Nobiliora  flumina 
sunt  Dea  qui  ex  humilibus  montibus  Scairsoch  dictis,  per 
aspreta  Grampiorum  montium  continue  devolutus,  eaq^  non 
raro  dividens,  recto  cursu  in  orientem  tendens,  multis  ignobi- 
lioribus  rivis  commistis,  ad  Abredoniam  magno  et  eximii 
opens  ponte  junctus  Oceanum  subit.  Dona  a  Strathdonae 
montibus  defluens,  eundem  quern  Dea  cursum,  sed  variis 
ludens  meandris,  molitur,  et  duobus  milliaribus  a  Dea, 
Oceano  itidem  mergitur,  ad  ostia  amplissimo  ponte  unius  arcus 
connectitur.  Ythanna  brevis  cursus,  et  per  campos  evolutus 
tardus,  Oceani  aestus  altius  quam  quivis  harum  regionum 
fluvius  sentit.  Ugius,  duplex  interioris  et  citerioris  cognomi- 
nibus,  qui  simul  confluentes,  Buquhaniam  intersecant,  et  ad 
Innerugiam  in  Oceanum  efFunduntur.  Doverna  a  jugis  com- 
pascuae  regiunculae  Cabrach  ortus,  ad  Strathbogiam,  Bogiam 
recipiens  et  infra  paulum  a  sinistris  Ylam,  et  nonnullos  alios 
ignobiles  fluviolos,  in  Circium  tendens,  ad  Banfiam  desinit. 

Spea  a  dorso  Badenochse  ortus,  in  Circium  cursu  tendens, , 
totam  Badenochse  longitudinem  emensus,  multis  illic  auctus 
fluminibus,  Strath -Speam  irrigat,  ubi  Dulnanum  suscipiens  et 


250  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

infra  a  dextris  Aviniam  rapidissimo  cursu,  Moraviae  limes, 
infra  amplissimos  Marchionis  Huntilaei  aedes  Bog  of  Gicht 
dictas,  aquas  perdit. 

DESCRIPTIO  DUARUM  PR^EFECTURARUM  ABER- 
DONI^E  et  BANFI^E. 

Aggredior  descriptionem  duarum  praefecturarum  quae 
Grampiorum  montium  parte  et  Dea  fluvio  ab  ipsis  usc^ 
fontibus  a  meridie,  Speae  insignis  et  rapidissimi  fluminis 
decursu  ab  occasu,  a  septentrione,  parte  magni  sinus  cui  Varar 
antiquum  nomen,  hodie  Murray  fyrth,  ad  orientem  vero 
aperto  Oceano  conclusae  jacent,  in  qua  si  supra  caeteras  regni 
provincias  me  exerceam  venia  detur,  cum  his  locis  debeam 
natales,  culturam  ingenii,  fortunae  bona,  aut  si  quid  his 
charius,  nihil  tamen  supra  veritatem  (cui  in  his  litavi)  ut  in 
rebus  mihi  probe  cognitis  dicendum  erit.  Non  erant  haec 
loca,  quamquam  extra  Romanes  limites,  perspicacissimo  Alex- 
andrino  Geographo  plane  incognita,  qui  rudi  forma,  non 
longe  tamen  veritate  ipsa,  littora  situmq^  terrarum  describit. 
Incolas  Taezalos,  et  extremum  ad  ortum  promontorium 
Taezalum  promontorium  hodie  Buchanness,  nomine  nostris 
scriptoribus  plane  ignoto  designat.  Nostri  ab  origine  totum 
hunc  tractum  in  varias  partes  distinctis  nominibus  secuerunt. 
est  Marriae  inferior  et  superior,  hodie  Marr,  Cromarr,  Strath- 
Dee,  Brae- Marr,  ulterius  Gariocha,  itidem  his  ad  septentrionem 
Buchania,  tota  secundum  littus,  est  Boena,  Ainia,  ad  usc^ 
Speam  fluvium,  supra  in  mediterraneis,  Strath-Bogia,  Strath- 
Yla,  Balvania,  Strath  Avinia  et  nonnullae  aliae  quas  in  tempore 
memorabo.  Harum  quae  Strath  praefixum  habent,  a  fluviis 
qui  illas  secant,  nomen  referunt.  vox  enim  ilia  prisca  lingua 
regionem  significat  flumine  intersectam,  at  reliquorum  nominis 
rationem  qui  vestigaverit  nee  ille  operam  luserit.  Multarum 
S87.  o,110^  limites  incerti.  hodie  tota  haec  ditio  in  duas  praefecturas 
dividitur,  quae  ab  oppidis,  ubi  jus  dicitur,  nomen  habent:  ilia 
Aberdonia  et  Banfia  sunt.  Caelum  temperatum,  salubre,  quan- 
quam  inassuetis  et  calidiore  acre  natis  frigidiusculum,  quod 
larga  foci  abundantia  sarcitur,  quanquam  nullus  unquam 
hypocaustorum  usus.  hyemes  mites,  quod  oceano  magnam 
partem  circumfuso  debetur.  raro  nivosae,  magis  fatigant  pluviae, 
quod  itidem  Oceano  debetur.  Miraculo  haec  sunt  exteris  hue 


ABERDEEN— BANFF  251 

advectis,  presertim  Suecis  Danis  Polonis,  Pruseis,  ubi  terra 
totam  hyemem  perpetuis  nivibus,  rigido  gelu  concreta  et  abdita 
riget  [?  latet].  Mediterranea  montibus  crebris  sed  iis  compascuis 
attolluntur.  Dea  fluvius  Grampios  monies  secat,  quorum  pars 
ad  arctum  a  flumine  relicta,  in  diversa  brachia  dispersa,  loca 
quae  longius  mari  absunt,  in  montes  tollit,  At  inferiora  et 
secundum  littora  porrecta  mitiora,  montibusc^  libera. 
Buchania  universa  magno  tractu,  tota  campis  aut  collibus  fusa, 
montes  [non]  agnoscit.  Neq^  per  universum  regnum  depresso 
solo  montibusq^  plane  immuni  asquabitur.  Ventorum  infestior 
vis,  quorum  Aparetias  cseli  frigidi,  ssepe  nivosi.  Notus  varius, 
Zephyrus  nunquam  non  serenus,  at  Caurus  omnium  infestis- 
simus  vi,  frigore,  nive.  Incolarum  ingenia,  si  humiliorem 
sortem  aut  faecem  vulgi  spectes,  agriculture  ut  plurimum 
student  aut  vilioribus  artificiis  se  dedunt,  quae  vix  faeliciter 
exercent;  nonnulli  tamen  ex  his  emergunt  at  pars  melioris 
notae,  aut  claris  natalibus  editi,  cives  etiam  oppidorumc^ 
cultores,  ante  omnia,  a  primis  annis,  literis  exercentur:  haec 
studia  sectantur,  genioq^  et  annis  auctis  externa  educatio 
praecipue  apud  Gallos  amicam  et  semper  adamatam  iis  gentem 
cordi  est.  Negotiatio  civibus  et  urbanis  relinquitur.  Meliores 
magno  suo  malo,  earn  dedignantur  ut  natalibus  imparem  suis. 
unde  aut  inopia,  aut  armorum  studium,  quod  multis  locis  apud  ; 
exteros  cum  laude  jam  a  multis  annis  exercuerunt.  Ingeniis 
enim  acribus  et  fervidis,  sive  Musis  sive  Marti  se  mancipent, 
non  parum  proficiunt;  quibus  jam  aetas  deferbuit,  domi  otium 
et  in  villis  suis  rusticam  vitam  urbanae  praeferunt.  unde  pauca 
oppida,  eaq,^  praeter  unam  Aberdoniam,  quantivis  momenti  cum 
tamen  tota  regio  frequenter  satis  habitetur,  nisi  invia  aut  avia 
prohibeant.  Sed  nec^  Urbani  hanc  otii  notam  vere  effugirent, 
cum  mercaturae  et  negotiation!  non  quantum  facile  possint  in- 
dulgeant. 

Nunc  antequam  ulterius  provehar  necessario  praefandum 
existimavi,  quomodo  inter  haec  factiosae  nobilitatis  perpetua 
dissidia,  Ecclesiasticorum  ambitionem  et  avaritiam  quibus 
nobiles  in  suum  commodum  abutebantur,  Regibus  tutis  esse 
licuerit.  Sciri  igitur  operae  pretium  erit.  Jacobo  Quinto  satis 
cedente,  (nam  supra  ea  tempora  non  est  mini  sermo)  relligio 
reformata  hie  radices  agere  caepit.  Regina  regni  haerede 
tenera  aetate  in  Galliam  abducta,  ab  iis  qui  Gallis  favebant, 


252  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

regimen  regni  Aranio  Comiti  traditum  qui  proximus  regni 
haeres:  hac  dignitate  ille  cessit  Mariae  Lotharingae  Jacobi 
Quinti  viduae.  ilia  se  reformation!  opposuit,  cumc^  videret  a 
Reformatoribus  arma  parari,  advocatis  Gallis  militibus,  se 
contra  vim  tutatur.  Interea  adoleverat  Jacobus  postea 
Moraviae  Comes ;  ducem  se  reformatoribus  praebuit,  advocatis 
in  subsidium  Anglis  donee  regno  pellerentur  Galli.  Regina 
autem  Gubernatrice  mortua,  in  Galliam  properat  speculaturus 
quid  consilii  Maria  regina,  extincto  Francisco  secundo  jam 
vidua,  caperet ;  si  forte  ilia  Gallia  magis  caperetur  quam 
turbulenta  Scotiae  sceptra  regere  primum  sibi  locum  ambi- 
turus.  Ilia  regressa  quomodo  se  gesserit,  historiae  loquuntur; 
omnia  ejus  acta  abunde  testantur  eum  perpetua  regni  cupidine 
aestuasse ;  et  nisi  immatura  ejus  consilia  properata  caedes  tur- 
basset,  procul  dubio  nihil  non  ausurus  ut  ad  sceptra  ei  pateret 
aditus.  Ante  eum  Atholiae  Comes  Jacobo  Primo  struxerat 
insidias,  (rerum  aestimatoribus  sinceris)  longe  justioribus  de 
causis,  quas  hie  inserere  longum  esset,  sed  Moravii  spurii 
tyrannis  nullum  habitura  specimen  recti :  Superioribus  autem 
saeculis  nemo  unquam  extra  regiam  domum  sceptra  concupivit ; 
non  Duglassiorum  nimia  et  regibus  gravis  potentia  hue 
collimitavit,  non  ilia- conjuratio  quae  Jacobum  tertium  neci 
dedit,  sed  eorundem  opera  sceptra  filio  tradita.  Nobilitas 
inter  se  frequenter  collidebatur,  anhelantes,  qui  apud  regem  in 
maxima  gratia  florerent.  Unde  ad  nos  germani  et  regii  san- 
guinis  incorrupta  series  propagata  est. 

Hie  mirabitur  forsan  Lector  quomodo  inter  tot  factionum 
monstra,  quae  a  procerum  ambitione  procedebant,  Regi 
adolescent!  et  ad  haec  prohibenda  impari,  tuto  esse  licuerit. 
Nobilitas  factiosa  inter  se  collidebatur,  unde  omnia  omnibus 
qui  se  immiscerent  mala,  at  aliquid  contra  reges  attentare  aut 
sceptra  audere,  nulli  per  haec  tempora,  neq^  per  super iora  ulli 
unquam  in  mentem  venit.  Unde  servata  semper  regia  domus 
ad  nos  pervenit.  Saepe  civilia  bella  in  regia  familia,  bella 
civilia  eos  exuere.  quandoc^  pulsis  legitimis  regibus  tyranni  ad 
aliquod  tempus  regnavere,  sed  illis  bello  aut  insidiis  sublatis, 
omnia  ad  legitimos  principes  rediere. 

Sed  jam  singulas  partes  percurramus;  a  Banfiae  praefectura 
incipiendo,  Strath  Avinia  in  mediterraneis  regiuncula,  hodie 


ABERDEEN— BANFF 

Stra-down,  Marchionunr  Huntilaei    avitum   patrimonium.  ad 

decursum    Avinni  fluminis  jacet,   quod   omnium  hujus  regni 

fluminum  limpidissimum  et  aquae  purissimae  esse  retulit  mihi 

Timotheus  Pont,  qui  universa  haec  lustravit.     Sed  nulla  inde 

nota  laudabilis  soli,  macerrimum  enim  est,  parca  segete,  et 

nonnullis  annis  vix  maturescente,  unde  incolis  maxima  semper 

in  pastu  spes,  quae  nunquam  illos  fallit.    Avinnus  ex  asperrimi 

et  nivosi  mentis  Bin  Awen  dicti  jugis,  e  lacu  exiguo  profluens, 

post  pauca  decursus  milliaria,  fluviolum  Bulg  e  lacu  ejusdem 

nominis  effusum  suscipit.     dein  per  saxea  et  confragosa  loca, 

multis  undiq^  susceptis  rivulis,  eluctatur  potius  quam  meat, 

dum  suscipiat  Liffetum,  hunc  autem  et  ilium  alterum  a  dextris,  290. 

jam  auctior  aquis,   in    Speam    se   praecipitat,    toto   cursu   in 

Boream  tendens ;  ad  ejus  cum  Liffeto  confluentes  parietinae 

sunt  vetustae  arcis  Drimin,  exiguoc^  inde  intervallo 

caetera  tenent  rusticanae  casae.     Neque  haec,  nec^  quae  sequitur 

Balvania  Speam   attingit,  tractus  enim  Strath  Spaeas  qui  ad 

Praefecturam  Moraviae  spectat,  intercedit.     Balvania  mitioris 

aliquantum    soli,    tota   tamen    montibus    horrens,   Fiddicho 

Huviolo  et  nonnullis  aliis  ignobilioribus  iritersecta  est,  a  Danis, 

qui  haec  loca  insederunt,  nomen  sortita.     Bal  enim  oppidum 

aut  villam  significat,  cui  Van  pro  Dan  levi  trajectu  literarum 

supposita  est  per  metathesim  priscae  linguae  familiarem.     In  ea 

Mor-Tullich    prima  jam   ante   aliquot   saecula    Episcoporum 

Aberdonensium  sede,  nunc  est  ecclesia  parochialis.     Balvania 

egregia  et  amaeni  situs  arx  ditionis  caput.     Achindounae  [arx] 

autem  et  superior  Fiddichi  fluvii  pars,  silvestribus  vallibus  sedet, 

vix  huic  tractui  accensi,  cum  ad  Marchiones  Huntilaeos  spectent. 

fluvius  hie  se  Speae  miscet,  postremus  alicujus  momenti  qui 

ejus  aquas  augeat.     Yla  enim  fluvius   in  vicinia  ortus,  post 

aliquot  milliaria  in  hac  regione  decursum,  subit  tractum,  cui 

nomen  suum  impertit.     Sunt  hie  praeterea  multae  villae  melioris 

notae  hominibus  habitatae,  quibus  recensendis  hoc  compendio 

non  est   immorandum:    tota   haec    ditio  jam    inde   a  Jacobo 

Secundo  ejus  nominis  rege  nostro,  hoc  est,  ab  anno  ad 

Comites  Atholiae  Stuartos  spectavit,  qui  f rat  re  in  uterinum  hac 

donavit.     qua  stirpe  deficiente,  earn  sibi  pacta  pecunia  asseruere 

Barones  Parlamentarii  de  Saltoun,ab  iis  eodem  jure  ad  Innesi- 

orum  familiam  devoluta  est.     Nunc  earn  jure  emptionis  tenet 


254  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

Rothesise  Comes.  Ubi  jam  montes  deficere  incipiunt,  Strath- 
Yla  ad  ripas  ejus  fluvioli  porrigitur,  qui  sinuosis  flexibus 
primum  in  boream  dein  in  ortum  converse  cursu,  Dovernum 
fluvium  paulum  supra  Rothemayam  postea  dicendam  subit. 
29 L  Tractus  hie  felici  solo  et  segete  et  gramine  laeta,  multum 
juvante  calce,  cujus  hie  ingens  ubic^  copia.  huic  excoquendae 
turn  in  suos  usus,  turn  ad  vicinorum  aedificantium  commodum 
(unde  illis  lucrum  quotidianum)  non  segniter  ab  incolis  labo- 
ratur.  telis  etiam  lineis  tenuioris  fili,  rem  faciunt.  Ketha 
vicus  cum  eeclesia  ad  amniculi  ripam,  stato  singulis  septimanis 
mercatu,  loci  opportunitate,  e  locis  superioribus  homines 
montanos  ad  sua  vendenda  aut  permutanda  invitat.  Tota 
haec  in  varios  dominos  dispertita,  a  multis  inferioris  notre 
nobilibus  habitatur.  a  Strath-Bogia  excelso  monte  Ballach 
dividitur,  ab  Ainia  proxima  tractu  humilium  collium,  quibus 
a  rivulo,  Altmore  nomen. 

Ainia?  vulgo  Ein  Yee,  ab  oceasu  Spea,  ad  Boream  sinus 
oceani  Varar  dictus,  hodie  Murray  fyrth,  ad  ortum  Boena  re- 
giuncula  adusc^  Cullenam  oppidulum  limites  faciunt.  Tota 
haec  frugibus  dicata  nunquam  coloni  spem  fallit,  gramine 
parco  tamen:  haec  vicinae  Moraviae  ubertate  soli  nihil  cedit. 
fructibus  tamen  hortensibus,  vitio  incolarum  potius  quam 
terra  genio  vincitur.  Mare  piscosum  ;  hie  deficiente  calce,  agri 
Oceano  vicini  alga  marina  stercorantur,  cujus  magna  vis 
accedente  bis  quotidiano  aestu,  in  littus  ejicitur :  adsunt  servi 
observatis  horis  et  ne  quid  pereat,  recedente  aestu  maris, 
algam  fugientem  retrahunt,  sese  undis  saeva  hyeme  etiam  noctu 
immergentes.  Ripae  fluminis  assidet  Bog  of  Gicht  arx  culta, 
laxa,  in  magnam  altitudinem  evecta,  tota  splendida  supra 
omnes  alias  harum  regionum,  cui  sive  voluptatem  sive  usum 
spectes,  nihil  deest.  hortis  amoenis  et  vivario  amplo  septa, 
quod  muro  firmo  conclusum,  in  quatuor  diversa,  muris  itidem 
separatur,  ad  usum  cervorum,  quorum  illic  duum  generum 
abunde  est.  Loco  nomen  a  depressiore  situ,  et  opaca  silva, 
superioribus  annis  hanc  magnifice  auxit  Marchio  Huntilaeus 
ejus  sicut  totius  regiunculae  dominus.  Huic  et  proximse 
Boense  interjacet  silvula  olim,  etiam  me  juvene,  proceris  et 
immanibus  quercubus  decora,  mine  tota  excisa :  succrevit 
iterum  querctis  admista  betula  aquifolia 


ABERDEEN— BANFF  255 

Strath  Bogia,  ampla  et  antiqua  Baronia,  nunc  in  Comita-  292. 
turn  a  Jacobo  Rege  erecta  :  earn  Dovernus  et  Bogius  secant,  in 
eac^  miscentur.  torrentes  et  rivuli  frequentes,  qui  omnes 
ubertati  gleb,  tarn  ad  messes  quam  gramina  multum  pro- 
ficiunt.  Veteri  aevo  in  quadraginta  pagos  divisa,  quas  prisca 
lingua  Daachs  vocabat,  quorum  singulis  tantum  agri  adjectum, 
quantum  singulis  annis  quatuor  aratris  proscindi  possit.  neque 
id  exigui  spatii.  cum  moris  apud  nos  sit,  desectis  messibus,  per 
totam  hyemem  exercere  aratra,  ad  Martium  mensem,  unde 
sementi  initium,  sed  non  nisi  senescente  Maio  requiescentibus, 
hodie  excisis  silvis,  omniq^  agro  unde  spes  segetis  ad  culturam 
verso,  omnia  plus  quam  duplicata  sunt.  telae  linese  tenues 
hie  laboratse  precipue  commendantur,  unde  omnibus  vicinarum 
partium  qui  in  hoc  studio  non  alantur,  telis  ab  hac  regione 
nomen  et  commendatio.  non  exiguum  hinc  incolis  emolumen- 
tum,  qui  omnes  aestivas  nundinas  cum  his  frequentant.  Bourn 
praesertim  ad  macellum  gramme  saginatorum,  ovium  equorum 
itidem  ad  rusticos  usus  quantum  abunde  sufficiat,  nee  non 
quibus  instruantur  fora.  Incolae  ut  plurimum  Huntilaei 
Marchionis  necessarii,  omnes  vero  ejus  clientes,  jam  a  seculis 
aliquot  hujus  tractus  Domini.  Strathbogia  unde  regioni  nomen 
arx  amoeno  situ  ad  confluentes  dictorum  fluminum,  regionis 
caput,  hortis  laxis  jucundis  ;  pro  foribus  Dovernus  ponte  saxeo 
stratus. 

Omnium  horum  tractuum  regiuncularumc^  quarum  memini 
Incolae  homines  robusti,  strenui,  industrii  si  usus  et  exercitatio 
adsit,  egregii  milites  sed  verum  fatear,  non  enim  gentilibus 
meis  parcendum  est,  tarn  pace  quam  bello  neglectis  musis  plus 
Marti  semper  litarunt. 

Hujus  appendices  sunt  Rothymaia,  arx  cui  Ecclesia  adhaeret, 
tribus  milliaribus  infra  Strath  Bogiam  ad  fluvium  eundem 
sita,  olim  ejusdem  etiam  pars.  Baronum  Parlamentariorum 
de  Saltoun  avitum  haeredium  nunc  ad  Gordonios  devoluta.  ^.y. 
Ad  fontes  vero  Doverni,  districtus  jacet  humili  inter  montes 
solo,  alius  fluviolus  nigri  nomine  quern  Melam  dixeris,  hie 
Doverno  adhuc  tenui  confluit;  quisc^  aquas  duplicando  justo 
fluvio  pares  facit.  Cabrach  loco  nomen.  totus  gramini  et  pascuis 
sepositus.  quod  hie  mirum  in  modum  luxuriat.  per  aestatem 
mapalibus  pastoritiis  frequens.  hyeme  ut  plurimum  demigratur. 


256  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

Boena  regiuncula,  ubere  et  toto  solo  nulli  reliquarum 
cedit,  qua  mari  obversa  est,  mediterranea  ejus  non  item:  ab 
Ainia  secundum  littora  ad  Doverni  ostia  porrigitur ;  in  aditu 
ejus  est  Cullena,  vetusta  satis;  oppidi  jure  fruitur,  sed 
portu  defecta,  vix  mediocris  vici  nomine  digna :  earn  solum 
commendant  ager  frugifer  et  Comitis  Finlaterii  aedes,  qui 
deserta  arce  Finlateria  scopulo  marino  inaedificata,  ad  milliare 
unum,  hue  migrarunt  amoenitate  loci  illecti.  illis  in  vicinia, 
ampla  et  opulenta  latifundia.  Ulterius  ad  ortum  in  littore, 
medio  itinere  qua  Banfiam  itur,  est  arx  pulchra  sane,  cui  rupes 
Boenae  nomen,  cujus  dominus  totius  regionis  titulum  praefert. 
Baro  ille,  et  antiquae  stirpis.  Banfia  vero  oppidum,  praefectura 
hujus  caput,  ad  dicti  fluvii  ostia  sedet,  non  illamagni  momenti, 
cum  fluvius  importuosus  sit,  procelloso  cauro  objectus,  unde 
quandoq^  alvei  mutatio:  arcis  relliquiae  sunt ;  cives  rari  et 
negotiationi  impares,  vicinos  oppido  agros  exercent.  Salmo- 
norum  quoq^  est  piscatura  non  incelebris. 

Sequitur  Buchania,  ampla  et  late  patens  provincia,  ad  initium 
sinus  Varar  adusq^  Taezalum  promontorium,  unde  sinus  ille  prin- 
cipium  sumit,  ad  ortum  vero  longo  tractu  Oceano  incumbit;  in 
mediterraneis  incerti  fines:  quidam  earn  censent  adusq^  flumen 
Donam  exporrigi  debere.  Alii  earn  Ythanno  fluvio  terminant. 
reliqua  Formartinae  nomine  habent.  Novi  ego  antiquam 
Baroniam  eo  nomine  dictam  quae  jam  a  variis  possessa,  cum 
nomine  evanuit.  Itinere  sane  qua  a  Taszalo  Strath  Bogiam 
itur,  sunt  nonnulla  quae  nulli  provincias  tributa,  ab  ecclesiis 
suis  parochialibus  nomen  habent,  qualia  sunt  Ochterles, 
Abirkirdir  et  Frenderacta  Vicecomitum  Crichtoniorum  arx, 
294.  etiam  nonnulla  alia.  Caeterum  Buchaniam  totam  campi  aut 
colles  tenent,  tota  aratris  dicata,  bourn  oviumq^  dives,  innu- 
meris  rivis  intersecta ;  Ugius  fluvius  e  duplici  fonte,  quorum 
utriq^  idem  nominis,  anterioris  et  posterioris  cognomine  dis- 
tincto,  post  decem  milliaria  emensa  confluunt  et  ad  Innerugiam 
arcem,  Oceano  se  condunt.  Ythannus  vero  non  longi  cursus,  et 
multis  rivis  auctus ;  Ugio  longe  ditior  aquis,  infra  vicum  NVo- 
burgum  Oceano  itidem  miscetur,  reflexo  in  ortum  hybernum 
ostio ;  piano  solo  means  aestum  supra  reliquos  omnes  harum 
prsefecturarum  fluvios  sentit,  sed  arenosa  littora  portui  nocent, 
qui  non  nisi  minoribtis  navibus  aditur.  At  ut  redeam  undo 


ABERDEEN— BANFF  257 

digressus  sum:  supra  Banfiam  ad  septem  milliaria  paullum  a 
Doverno  est  ad  rivum    sui    nominis  Turravia   amcenus  cum 
ecclesia  pagus,  rei  falconariae  percommodus,   apertis   campis 
aut  collibus  in  tantum  venationi  apta,  ut  nullus  in  his  praefec- 
turis,  vix  in  aliis  par  sit;  inde  ad  austrum    ad   sex  millia, 
visuntur  ad  Ythanni  ripas,  a?des  magnificae  et  spatiosae  Ferme- 
linoduni  Comitum  Fivai  nomine;  totus  hie  fluvius  villis  et 
arcibus  Baronum  et  nobilium  inferioris  Ordinis  tenetur.     Ab 
ostio  ejusdem,  flexo  in  arctum  itinere  prima  jacet  Slanis  arcis 
dirutae    Comitum    Erroliae    parietinae.    qui    inde    migrarunt, 
structis  aedibus  in  Bownfess]  peninsula  in  littore  scopuloso.     Ad 
ipsurn  promontorium  Taezalum  sedet  Peterhead  loco  ad  exer- 
cendam  rem  maritimam  opportune,  portui  accomoda  si  adhi- 
beatur  industria,  ut  quae  fuerat  moles,  ad  frangendas  undas, 
jam  paene  labefactata  est.      Neq>  succurritur,  sed  loci  egregia 
opportunitas  plane  negligitur.    Caenobii  de  Deer  quondam  ille 
fuerat,  nunc  Comitem  Marescallum  Dominum  agnoscit.  inde  ad 
alterum  milliare  provectis  Innerugia  in  littore  habetur  ampla  et 
illustris  arx,  magnae  et  veteris  Baroniae  sedes  primaria,  Comitis 
dicti  patrimonium.     Jam  superato  promontorio  duodecim  ab 
eodem  passuum   millibus  visitur  Fraserburgum.  abante  annos 
quinquaginta,  molitus  oppidum  est  Alexander  Fraserius  illus- 
tris Eques  et  Baro :  libertatibus  a  rege  concessis  auxit,  molem 
etiam  lapideam  magnis  sumptibus  Oceano    objecit,  primum 
loco  iniquiore  dein  translatis  alio  operibus,  portum  munivit,  $ 
qui  hodie  frequentatur,  et  oppido  incrementa  dat. 

Supra  earn  in  mediterraneis  ad  Ugium  sunt  ruinae  aut 
ruinarum  locus  vetusti  et  locupletis  Caenobii  de  Deer  nomine 
quercum  prisca  lingua  (etiam  referente  Beda,)  significante,  qui 
non  tamen  hujus,  sed  alius  ejusdem  nominis  meminit ;  fuerat 
illud  nostrum  Cisterciensis  Ordinis ;  habeo  apud  me  antiquam 
cartam  pergamenam,  sigillo  Gulielmi  Cuming  Comitis  de 
Buchan  impressam  qua  non  obscure  videtur  eum  aut  illud 
fundasse  aut  cum  primis  terras  ei  donasse.  Sedebat  in  depressa 
valle  undic^  silvis  opaca.  Vidi  ego  prima  adolescentia,  templum, 
aedes,  Monachorum  cellas,  hortos  amoenos,  aliaq^  tantum  non 
Integra,  sed  nunc  avectis  ipsis  lapidibus  triumphat  aratrum. 
hoc  coenobio  Jacobus  Rex  donavit  Georgium  Comitem  Mares- 
callum, dum  eum  legatum  ad  desponsandam  Annam  Reginam 

VOL.    II.  R 


258  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

in  Daniam  mittit,  qui  tamen  plus  damni  quam  lucri  inde 
sensit.  Ultra  Ythannum  adust^  Donam  nihil  memorabile 
occurrit,  praeter  inferioris  Ordinis  Nobilium,  quorum  multi 
Barones  audiunt,  arces  et  aedes  frequent! ssimas,  aut  ubi  desunt, 
rusticanse  caesae  omnia  paene  tenent.  Nihil  aut  quam  exiguura 
otiosae  telluris.  Memoria  exciderat  nullos  in  hac  provincia 
montes,  unus  est,  Mormond  dicunt  qui  caeteris  terris  paulum 
supereminens,  mediocri  colli  in  mediterraneis  impar.  At  bourn 
oviumq^'  ingens  copia,  segete  quasi  tota  vestita,  non  raro 
aliorum  penuriae  medetur,  smgulis  annis  etiam  devectis  Letham 
frugibus,  cum  australioribus  commercia  agitant.  Incola? 
secuti  genium  soli,  strenui  agricolae,  ad  maritima  segues. 
Materies  ad  aedificia  e  Norvegia  petitur,  quae  si  deficeret,  male 
cum  iis  actum  foret,  adeo  infestos  et  inimicos  silvis  majores 
habuimus,  ut  ubi  omnia  ante  aliquot  saecula  inhorruere  silvis 
adusc^  ipsa  littora,  nunc  penuria  laboretur. 

Gariocha  (Garviach  vulgo  Gheriach,)  inter  Strath  Bogiam, 
Buchaniam  et  Marriam  conclusa,  nullibi  mare  attingens, 
nescitur  unde  origo  nominis ;  prisca  lingua  (Garve)  asperum, 
saxosum  inaequale  solum  significat,  Ach  vero  campum  vel 
campestre.  haec  non  respondent  regionis  indoli  quae  duabus 
amnibus  multisq^  rivulis  irrigua,  in  convallibus  tota  posita  esi 
Collibus  frugiferis  expansa,  opulenta  et  tempestiva  messe,  nun- 
quam  coloni  votis  non  respondens,  Bennachius  mons  secundum 
longitudinem,  earn  pasne  totam  ad  meridiem  metitur,  qui  in 
septem  acutos  et  distinctos  vertices  assurgens,  se  conspicuum 
praeternavigantibus  praebet.  inferiora  namq^  omnia  plana.  Urius 
amnis  non  procul  Gartlia  arce,  leni  jugo  ortus,  per  sterilem 
vallem  decurrens,  inter  duorum  montium  confragosa  eluctatus, 
et  campis  im missus,  mediam  inaequali  et  tortuoso  alveo  secans, 
ad  Inner uriam  urbeculam  Donae  confluit.  Ad  radices  vero 
Bennachii  montis,  ejusc^  longitudinem  emensus  Gadius  fluviolus 
ad  alterum  milliare  supra  Urii  ostia  eidem  miscetur.  hie  non 
defit  venatio  leporum  jucunda,  aequatilium  avium,  perdicum 
vanellorum  aliarumcj^  abunde  est.  gramine  parcior  est.  Ad 
milliare  unum  supra  pagum  Inche  dictum  Collis  est  undic^ 
rotundus,  mediocri  altitudine,  nullis  vicinis  montibus  con- 
tiguus,  totus  laeto  gramine  virescens ;  in  ipso  hujus  fastigio 
manent  parietinae  arcis,  Regis  Gregorii  I.  opus,  ubi  et  vita 


ABERDEEN— BANFF  259 

functus,  quod  vix  referrem,  nisi  fabula  ovium  ibidem  pascen- 
tium  auratis  dentibus  insignium  me  monuisset.  quarum  non- 
nullas  gingivas  auratis  dentibus  notatas  vidisse  me  memini, 
unde  fabula  vulgi,  Boetio  historico  nostro  illusit,  collem  ilium 
venis  auri  divitem ;  at  qui  locum  exacte  perpendet  nullius  297. 
metalli  vel  suspitionem  esse  videbit,  adeo  refragatur  loci 
natura.  gramini  id  potius  tribuendum  videtur,  neq^  mihi  in 
hoc  satisfacio,  cum  enim  pastura  omnibus  libera,  cur  tarn 
rarum  id  solum  nonnullis  contingit  ?  Ubi  a  Dona  absorbetur 
Inneruria  jacet,  antiqua  satis,  burgensibus  ut  vocant  immuni- 
tatibus  gaudens  sed  quae  in  Abredoniae  vicinia,  mediocris 
|)agi  honori  vix  sufficit :  in  itinere  qua  ab  illo  oppido  Elginam 
in  Moravia  itur,  posita  est,  prioribus  seculis  tota  silvis  opaca, 
quarum  nunc  nee  vestigia  manent :  omnia  aperta :  non  longe 
hinc  Robertus  rex  ejus  nominis  primus,  acie  fudit  Cuminium 
Buchaniae  Comitem  illi  rebellem,  fugientem  secutus  Buchaniam 
populatus  est ;  acta  haec  sunt  circa  annum  13  Postea 

Alexander  Stuartus  Marrise  Comes,  Donaldum  Insulanum 
^Ebudarum  viribus  fretum,  omnia  vastantem  cruento  praelio 
vicit  ad  Harlaw  vicum  in  vicinia,  quod  incidisse  in  Annum 
1411  annales  nostri  referunt.  Districtus  hujus  maxima  pars 
Comitatui  Marrise  adnexa,  titulos  ejus  hodieq^  auget. 

Marria  (cujus  nominis  etimologiam  nemo  dixerit,)  inferior 
et  oceano  proxima  ab  austro,  et  septentrionibus,  Dea  et  Dona 
Huminibus  coercita,  in  superioribus  extra  utrunq^  expatiatur. 
Longitudine  insignis,  latitudine  longe  impar.  qui  hos  fluvios  et 
confluentes  iis  amnicolas  descripserit,  omnia  paene  dixerit,  adeo 
mediterranea  montibus  et  ericetis  abundant,  Dea  namc^  Gram- 
pios  montes  a  fontibus  secans  adusq^  ostia,  ubi  in  colles 
desinunt,  non  exiguam  eorum  partem  a  dextra  relinquens, 
provinciam  hanc  montanam  et  quam  multis  cultures  ineptam 
reddit.  quicquid  tamen  messibus  cedit,  optimae  notae  est, 
desecaturq^  tempestivis  semper  autumnis.  Montes  hi  armentis 
bourn,  ovium  eximiarum  et  gratissimi  saporis  gregibus,  equis 
ad  rusticana  opera,  capris  in  superioribus  oris  satis  divites 
lanae,  caeterorum  omnium  tractuum  a  me  descriptorum  longe 
optimse,  candore,  mollitie,  tenuitate  laudatae  avide  expetun- 
tur.  Non  tamen  haec  sarciunt  damnum  inutilis  soli.  Aer  29 
saluber,  incolae  robusti,  sani,  et  homines  frugi ;  tellus  arida, 


260  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

nec^  satis  frugifera  eorum  acuit  ingenia.      Dea  fontes  habet 
juxta  humilium  montium  seriem  Scarsach  dictam,  quae  Mar- 
riam  superiorem  Bra  of  Mar  a  Badenocha  dividunt  ad  montem 
praecelsum,  Bini-vroden  vocant.  recepto  Galdi  amniculo,  non 
nihil  in  orientem  hybernum  decurrit,  statim  in    ortum  sese 
retorquens,  nullis  paene  flexibus  impeditus,  quanquam  asperis 
altisq^  montibus  ab  utraq^  ripa  coercitus,  celer,  limpidus,  illimis, 
glareoso   semper    alveo,   ad    Aberdoniam    cui   novae   nomen, 
pontem  subiens  jam  proximus  oppido,  Oceano  miscetur;  ad 
Inner-ey  ab  amniculo  Ey  dicto  septem  milliaribus  a  scatebris 
primum    culturam  sentit.      deinde  auctior  aquis  quas  multi 
magniq^  rivi  e  montibus  devehunt,  alluit  a  dextris  Casteltoun, 
urbem  castelli  dixeris,      Comitum  Marriae  aedes,  ad  mod  urn 
castelli  aedificatas  cum   vicina  ecclesia.      In  adversa  ripa  est 
Innercald  villa,  paulo  inferius  ecclesia  cum  pago  Crathy,  inde 
a  dextris  Abirzeldie  arx  itidem,  ubi  vallis  Strath  Deae  nomine 
audit:  nisi  Glengardinam  adjicias,  a  fluvio  cui  incumbit  nomi- 
natam,  caetera  loca  rusticanis  casis  habentur,  hie  parca  seges, 
valle  Deae  montibus  arctata ;  at  silvae  procerarum  abietum  non 
desunt,  quae  multo  auro  in  regionibus  inferioribus  redimeren- 
tur,  Ad  milliare  unum  infra   Abiryeldeam  mons  est  praecel- 
sus,  ad  fluminis  ripam,  nulli  alteri  contiguus,  quanq^  nimium 
quam  multi  ei  approximent ;   totus  undiquao^  silva  vestitus, 
cacumina  et  rupes  tenet  immensarum  abietum  semper  virescen- 
tium  decorum  nemus,  devexa  adusq^  fluvium  camposq^  betu- 
larum   et  tiliarum  silva,  tarn  proceris  densisc^  arboribus,  ut 
nihil  ex  toto  monte  praeter  silvam  videas.     Crag-Gewis  monti 
nomen,  crag  rupem,  gewis  abietem  significante.     Proxima  his 
est  Glen  Muick  exigua  vallis  ab  amne  nomen  habens,  qui  e 
lacti  ejusdem  nominis    ortus,  post  non  multa  milliaria  Deae 
miscetur   a   dextris,  ex  adverso   paene  Gardini   fluvii.     Infra 
Glen-Muick  in   eadem   ripa  sese  offert  silva  Pananich  dicta 
299.  quae  frequens  devehitur  Aberdoniam  usq^,  sed  ad  vecturae  com- 
modum  praeparata,  in  rusticorum  usus,  ad  aedificia  enim  integri 
arborum  trunci  aspero  et  saxoso  itinere,  neq^  deferri  possunt, 
neq^  rapidissimo   flumini,  quanquam  aquarum   satis  sit,  tuto 
committi.     Sequitur  in  eadem  ripa  amcena  arx  Kean-na-kyll : 
caput    silvae    vox    significat.    ad    secessum    voluptuarium    a 
Marchione   Huntilaea  ante  plusculos  annos  aedificata, 


ABERDEEN— BANFF  261 

silvis   opaca,   loco   piscatui,  aucupio  venation!    cervorum   et 
damarum   peropportuno :    inferius    legendo    ripam    Tanerus 
fluviolus  Deam  subit,  ortus  hie  e  jugis  altissimorum  montium 
qui  Angusiae   provinciae  ac   Marriae   limites   faciunt.  ingenti 
silva  procerarum  abietum  ripae  coronantur,  quae  ad  multa  mil- 
liaria  protenditur.      Proxima  ei  Birs   dicta  paroecia   quae   a 
flumine  ad  fontes  amnis  Feuch  dicti  excurrit,  ubi  superioribus 
annis,   silva  betularum  arborum,  omnium    vicinorum    usibus 
abunde  suffecit ;  nunc  desecta,  incuria  eorum  quorum  interest 
tarde  reflorescit,  nulla  telluris  injuria  ad  hoc  aptissima.     Jam 
Marria  Deam  limitem  habet,  qui  earn  a  Mernia  vicina  pro- 
vincia   dividit,   imo   flumen    id    loci   transgressa,   parochiam 
Banchoriam  Dominici  dictam  ei  subtrahit,  ubi  non  longe   a 
ripa,  saxoso  situ  arx  est  Crathes ;  Thomas  Burnetus  Baro,  loci 
dominus,  cura  et  ingenio  loci  genium  vicit,  consitis  enim  manu 
abietibus,  aliisq^   arboribus,  horridas  cautes  texit,  hortis  in- 
struxit,  amcenitatem  induxit.     descendendo  sequitur  Drummia 
arx  ad  milliare  a  flumine   sejuncta,  loco  alto   et   aspero   at 
aedifiiciis,  liortis  egregie  culta,  Alexandrum  Irwinum  Baronem, 
antiques  et  illustris  prosapiae,  gentist^  suae  principem  Dominum . 
habet.     Nihil  praeterea  hie  quod  referatur,  memoria  dignum, 
antequam  fluvius  pontem   subeat.      At  in  superioribus,  post 
Gardini  ostia,  tractus  est  Cromar  dictus,  a  tota  vicinia  monti- 
bus  divisus ;  ad  occasum,  Morvin  praecelsus  supra  caeteros  mons 
et  Kiblena  silva  ei  terminus;  tractus  vix  ultra  quatuor  mil- 
liaria,  vel  in  longum  vel   in   latum  diffusus,   rivulis   duobus 
intersectus,  collibus  aut  campis  expansus,  reliquam  Marriam  & 
feraci  solo  longe  vincit,  totus  Cereri  dicatus,  vicinorum  omnium 
horreum,  nihil  hie  non  egregium,  nihil  non  tempestivum,  et 
quod  mirere,  ubertas  haec  non  attingit    Deam,   quae   ab    eo 
ericetis  et  sterili   tellure  interjecta,  supra  milliare  abest.  in 
quatuor  ecclesias  parochiales  divisus,  diversos  dominos  agnoscit. 
Proxima   ei  stat   Obyne,  quae   titulos   Baronis  Parlamentarii 
dat  Marchionis  Huntilaei  filio  cui  vicinus  in  proxima  valle 
lacus  Ach-lossin  dictus.  ad  fluvium  vero  stat  Kincardina  pagus 
cum  ecclesia,  ad  viam  regiam,  qua  transmittunt  montes ;  abest 
Aberdoniae  ad  octodecim  milliaria ;  infra  earn  Cannius  fluviolus 
tribus    milliaribus   a   flumine   Dea   suscipitur.    tractus   hujus 
fluvioli  totus  amcenus,  totus  eximie  ferax,  conchis  margariferis 
abundans,  ad  ostia  attingit  Banchoriam  jam  a  nobis  dictam. 


262  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

Dona   fluvius,  quantum   Dese   magnitudine  et  longitudine 

impar  tan  turn  ilium  ubertate  terrarum  vincit,  jugis  montium 

qui  Strath  Aviniam  a  Marria  dividunt  ortus,  tenui  alveo  secat 

vallem  Strath  Donam  dictam,  multis  rivis  auctus,  ad  Inner- 

nochteam  Ecclesiam,  Nochtium  fluviolum  suscipit  a  sinistris. 

Paulo  inferius  a  dextris  Descrium,  et  ex  adverso  Buchetum. 

tractus  hie  gramine  laetus,  pasturae  commodus,  quanquam  non 

desint  segetes ;  ad  Buchetum  fluviolum  eluctatur  inter  angustias 

montium.     Toto  autem  cursu  non  ut  Dea  rapidus,  sed  placidis 

ut   plurimum    undis,   variis   meandris   multum    soli    irrigans, 

fcecundas  valles  aperit,  quandoq^  montibus  arctatus,  iterumq^ 

in  campos  expatiatur.      Infra  Buchetum  et  ad  ilium  Inner- 

buchetum  arcem  primi  nominis,  est  ad  sinistram  Arx  Kil- 

drumia  vetus  ilia,  et  regum  ut  creditur,  opus ;  mirum  est  earn 

loco  neque  amceno  montibus  impendentibus,  iisq^  sterilibus,  et 

campis  adeo  eivicinis  positam;  atoppidum  in  campis  molitoscon- 

ditores  indicat  nomen  Burroustoun  quod  oppidum  vel  burgum 

significat.     At  firmo  muro,  crebris  et  ingentibus  turribus  unde 

invicem  commeare  licet  adversus  vim  eo  seculo  tuta  :  nunc  novis 

SOI.  structuris  commodior  et  amoenior,  Comitum  Marrias  primaria  in 

his  locis  sedes  est.    Donee  ripam  legendoinfluit  Mo  sett  us  am  ni- 

culus,  et  non  longe  hinc  Ecclesia  Forbes  ad  ripam  fluminis,  inter 

confragosos  montes  posita  est,  cujus  non  erat  meminisse,  nisi, 

annalibus   nostris    referentibus,   primus    autor    clarissima?   in 

his  oris  familise  Forbesiorum,  unde  mihi  maternum  genus  im- 

manem  Ursum  omnia  circumqua^  vastantem  hie  neci  dederit, 

cujus  rei  signa  hucusc^  clypeo  gentilicio  posteri  praeferunt,  qui 

in  multos  ramos  diffusi  in  his  oris  a  fluminis  hujus  scatebris  et 

per  multa  harum  prsefecturarum  loca,  quamplurima  latifundia 

ditione  tenent ;  hie  Marria  montes  praetergressa,  parochiam 

Cletam,  arcemq^  Baronis  Parlamentarii  de  Forbes  cui  Dryra- 

minor  nomen,  Gariochae  et    Strathbogiae  subtrahere  videtur. 

Jam  Dona  angustiis  liber,  per  amplam  et  pinguis  soli  vallem, 

accepto    Leochello    amne   et    Alfordiam    pragterlapsus,   post 

quatuor  milliaria  emensa,  iterum  angustiis  Bennachii  mentis 

stringitur,  per  quas  rupibus  et  scopulis  horridas  in  meridiem 

reflectitur,  et  campis  immissus,  iterum  ad  suum  cursum,  ad 

ortum  labitur.  amcena  et   fbecunda  haec  planities  Monimosk 

habet,  Forbesiorum  arcem,  ubi  an  tea  prioratus  ejusdem  nominis, 


ABERDEEN— BANFF  263 

cujus  latifundiis  in  privates  usus  versis,  aedes  quoq^  interiere. 
diverso  a  flumine  itinere  Clunia  arx  visitur,  nec^  longe  abest 
Mulkalia  arx  firma  et  egregii  operis,  sedes  Fraseriorum  Bar- 
onum  Parlamentariorum  de  Mulkall,  infra  adhuc  ad  flumen 
di  versis  ripis  sunt  Kern  nay  et  Fettyrneir,  ubi  iterum  fluvius 
clausuris  strictus,  non  ante  liberatur  quam  Ineruriam  subeat, 
ubi  Marria  arctatur,  et  flumen  limitem  habet.  hie  in  austrum 
reflexus  suscepto  Urio  variis  meandris  campos  cultissimos  si  qui 
in  his  omnibus  provinciis  [sic]  primum  Kintoram  celebrem 
pagum,  cui  proxima  Arx  Comitis  Marescalli,  Hall  of  Forrest 
dicta  sedet,  praetergressus.  ea  inde  iterum  ortum  versus,  campos 
de  Fmtray  dictos  tortuosus  pererrans,  nullis  amplius  montibus 
infestis,  solo  altiore  nec^  campis  conferendo  means,  Oceano 
post  aliquot  milliaria  miscetur.  Intersunt  horum  fluminum 
ostiis  plus  minus  trium  millium  passuum  iter  littoris  arenacei.  302, 
Aberdonia  duplici  nomine,  itemq^  oppido,  ad  utriusc^  ostia 
visitur.  quae  nova  ad  Deam,  altera  veteris  nomine  ad  Donam 
posita,  intervallo  plus  minus  mille  passuum ;  hie  ecclesia 
cathedralis  et  episcopi  (dum  esset)  sedes :  oppidum,  agri, 
illius  erant.  nunc  adeo  omnia  mutata  ut  non  Episcopio  par- 
citum  sit  neq^  eo  diruto,  ipsis  lapidibus  requies.  Collegium 
vere  regale  Episcopus  Gulielmus  Elphinstonus  hie  struxit, 
nullis  sumptibus  parcens  ;  vix  illud,  morte  absumptus,  perfec- 
tum  videns,  prospexit  de  stipendiis,  magistris  omnibusc^  iis 
quorum  servitutis  necessarius  usus  ;  geronto  quod  in 

animo  habebat,  executoribus,  legata  pecunia  mandavit  nec^  ii 
opus  neglexere.  Dona  fluvius  proximus  Oceano  ripis  nectitur 
ponte  unius  arcus,  sed  illius  immensi :  egregii  et  firmi  operis, 
nescitur  autor,  quod  mirum,  cum  Deae  pons  id  non  uno  loco 
testetur.  Adeo  diversa  sunt  hominum  ingenia.  Circa  pontern 
et  paullum  supra  eum,  molem  lapideam  toto  fluminis  alveo 
artificiose  objectam  etiamq^  celebrem  et  questuosam  salmonum 
piscaturam  non  est  opus  referre,  alio  properanti.  Nova 
Abredonia  tribus  superstructa  collibus  editiore  solo  undic^ 
ascendendo  aditur.  Gregorius  Rex  circa  annum  loci 

commoditate  allectus,  primus  pago  jura,  privilegia  largitus 
est ;  aedes  habuit,  quae  postea  in  Fratrum  Trinitatis,  ut  vocant, 
Collegium  mutatae  sunt :  moneta  hie  signata,  cujus  unum  aut 
alterum  numisma  me  adolescente  civis  habebat,  sed  adhuc 


264  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

tenuibus  rebus  oppidum  haerebat  in  suburbio  cui  hodie  viride 
(green)  nomen.  postea  auctis  opibus  sese  per  altiores  colles 
diffudit,  sedibus,  plateis,  templis,praetorio  et  quibuscunq^  rebus 
aliis  ad  urbanum  usura  sese  instruxit,  rempublicam  magistrati- 
bus  electis  instituit  quam  Aristocraticam  voluit.  Commercia 
maritima  agitavit.  Sic  crescentibus  civibus  hie  juri  dicundo 
totae  praefecturse  tribunal  institutum.  Collegium  fundavit 
Georgius  Kethus  Mareschallus  Comes,  conversis  in  eum  usum 
Franciscanorum  sedibus,  sed  tarn  tenuibus  initiis,  ut  nisi 
piorum  hominum  liberalitas  subvenisset,  jam  defecisset.  portus 

303.  abest  urbe  ad  mille  passus,  quo  alveus  fluminis  recta  defluit. 
Allabente  aestu  omnia  adusq^  cothonem  aquis  operiuntur,  sic 
minoribus  navigiis  ad  urbem  patet  aditus,  majora  in  portu  de- 
ponunt  onera.  ante  plusculos  annos  cives  moliti  sunt  cothonem 

,  per  totum  maritimum  latus  producere  jactis  etiam  funda- 
mentis,  at  civilibus  nostris  procellis  non  omissum  sed 
intermissum  opus  est.  Arx  in  colle  cui  ab  ea  nomen,  com- 
plexa  in  ea  totius  collis  summa  planicie,  nunc  diruta ;  non  ita 
pridem  tentatum  est  urbem  ad  usus  bellicos  munire,  sed  in- 
faeliciter  cum  natura  locorum  repugnet,  neq^  aliter  toto  regno 
se  res  habent ;  quicquid  muniatur  infestis  temporibus,  pace 
facta  negligitur.  ex  adverso  et  in  conspectu  urbis,  exercetur 
nobilis  ilia  piscatura.  Ubi  lex  agraria  Licurgi  locum  habet : 
ilia  in  sortes  divisa  est,  quarum  unicam  uni  possidere  licet. 
Si  altera  vel  haeredi  vel  aliis  modis  accedat,  alterutra  cedere 
necessum  habet.  Flumen  ad  alterum  lapidem  insigni  septem 
arcuum  ponte,  stratum  est,  firma  et  duratura  architecture, 
Gavini  Dumbari  Episcopi  opus.  Utriusq^  oppidi  Athenaea, 
praeter  philosophica  utrisc^  communia,  habent  Theologiae,  Juris, 
Medicinae  et  Mathematum  Professores,  unde  eorum  quibus  ad 
haec  animus  et  ingenium,  concursus.  hinc  prodiere  viri  egregie 
eruditi,  et  reipublicae  utiles,  quorum  multi  apud  exteros 
vitam  non  inhonoram  egerunt,  aguntc^  quorum  nominibus 
modeste  parco ;  horum  nonnulli  scriptis  suis  satis  cogniti,  alii 
latuerunt,  cum  a  scribendi  cacoaethe  nimis  huic  aevo  familiari 
abhorrerent.  Ab  oppido  ad  occasum  in  radicibus  collis  cui  a 
mulieribus  nomen,  manat  copiosa  aquae  acidae  et  ferrei  saporis 
scaturigo;  haec  statim  immergit  se  vicino  rivulo.  Creditur, 
testante  experientia  similes  vires  aquis  Spadanis  in  Belgio 


ABERDEEN— BANFF  265 

tantopere  celebratis  habere,  ad  eosdem  morbos  efficax.  Medici 
nostrates  nonnulli  has  aquas,  scriptis  in  earn  rem  editis  earum  . 
viribus  exploratis  laudavere.  Sunt  sane  potui  satis  suaves, 
neq^  quisquam,  iis  larga  copia  haustis,  damnum  sensit. 
Caeterum  vel  ad  eluenda  lina  vel  ad  coquendam  cerevisiam 
plane  inutiles,  et  a  natura,  ut  videtur,  ad  medicos  usus  804. 
sepositae.  Urbem  hanc  regiam  sedem  fuisse,  ante  Pictorum 
excidium  testantur  annales ;  monetariam  illic  officinam  arguunt 
nummi  argentei  ibidem  cusi,  quorum  nonnullos  in  manibus 
civis  adhuc  servatos,  me  adolescente  memini.  aedes  regiae 
postea  Ecclesise  donates  et  fratrum  Trinitariorum  usibus 
dicatae. 

Durant  adhuc  antiqui  paganismi  vestigia;  diversis  locis 
visuntur  septa  magnorum  saxorum  in  orbem  disposita.  Unum 
latitudine  conspicuum  obversum  austro,  septo  paene  contiguum, 
altaris  vicem  supplesse  videtur.  Immania  haec  saxa  e  lon- 
ginquo  saepe  petita.  Sunt  etiam  variis  locis  in  collibus  aut 
solo  edition  immensi  lapidum  minorum  cumuli,  humano 
labore  aliunde  hue  convecti,  in  quibus,  rudibus  saeculis  et 
Christianitate  nondum  agnita,  proceres  sepelire  solenne 
fuerat.  disjectis  namque  saxis,  scrutatisq^  fundamentis,  cada- 
verum  relliquiae  repertae  sunt.  Inveniuntur  praeterea  lapides 
aut  saxa  erecta  verum  nonnulla,  sculptura  aut  rudi  caelatura 
honestata,  nonnulla  rudia  sunt.  Victoriarum  aut  praeliorum 
procul  dubio  monumenta,  quorum  memoria  intercidit,  at 
quorum  ex  annalibus  nostris  historia  manet,  prodantur.  Dani 
cum  Angliam  infestarent  nec^  haec  loca  extra  anni  solisc^  vias 
intacta  reliquerunt.  Semel  descensu  facto  ad  Buchaniae  littora 
orientalia,  in  scopulosa  peninsula  Bowness  dicta  sese  munien- 
tibus,  quae  hodie  Comitis  Erroliae  aedibus  ornata  est,  nostris 
copiis  occurrentibus  in  sabuloso  littore,  ad  mille  a  peninsula 
passibus  concursum  est.  Victi  Dani  intra  munimenta  sua 
refugerunt,  et  statim  pace  facta  navibus  avecti  sunt.  partium 
duces  communi  consilio  pepigerunt,  ad  locum  praelii  Ecclesiam 
statuendam  Divo  Olao  dicandam,  quod  et  factum  est.  postea 
exeso  mari  littore,  Ecclesia  ad  mille  passus  interius  statuta 
manet,  cui  sicut  et  vicino  tractui  Crowdan  hodie  nomen  est 
Iterum  ad  Cullenam  in  Boena  oppidulum  terra  conscensa  et 
vicina  vastantibus  copiae  opponuntur,  illi  per  agros  sparsi, 


266  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

sese  colligunt  praelio  confligitur,  millia  aliquot  passuum  ab 
305.  oppidulo  illo,  victi  illi,  et  regione  depulsi  sed  ea  pugna  Regem 
amisimus.  Haec  istis  locis  quae  describimus  con- 
tigerunt,  sed  hie  non  stetit  horam  praedonum  rabies,  multa 
praeterea  loca  per  omnes  ortivas  regni  oras  ab  iis  tentata  sunt, 
quae  commemorare  non  est  hujus  instituti ;  Patrum  quoc^ 
memoria,  civilibus  armis  quater  depugnatum  est,  etiam^ 
nuperis  hisce  turbis,  quae  mirum  quantum  nos  exercuerunt,  bis 
infestis  armis  concursum  est,  quorum  utinam  oblivio  nos 
teneat,  et  succedat  amnestia. 

Non  desunt  frequentes  nundinae  annuae,  sed  vicis  aut  locis 
ut  plurimum  mediterraneis :  celebriores  narrabo.  Exeunte 
mense  Junio  ad  nundinas  convenitur  in  apertis  campis,  in 
itinere  qua  Aberdonia  itur  Strabogiam.  Hae  a  Serfio  indigete 
Divo  nomen  habent;  causa  frequent iae  opportunitas  loci,  est 
enim  commune  distributorium  inter  populos  longe  discretos. 
Succedunt  Calendis  Augusti  ad  Turraviam  in  Buchania  vicum, 
iterum  ad  Divi  Laurentii  diem  in  Rania  tenui  Garviochae 
viculo ;  succedunt  omnium  celeberrimae  et  frequentissimae  ad 
Kincarnum  Ecclesiam  Marriae  parochialem  ad  Deae  fluminis 
ripam,  per  quam  iter  facientibus  trans  Grampios  montes  in 
Moraviam,  aut  ulterius  in  septentriones  transeundum  est. 
Proxima  septimana  habentur  ad  Ketham  in  Strath  Yla 
mundinae  die  Divo  Rufo,  Indigeti  itidem  Divo  vocato.  Paulo 
supra  Kincarnum  ad  Deae  itidem  ripam  meridionalem,  sed 
quae  huic  praefecturae  accensetur,  exeunte  Septembri  ad  Divi 
Michaelis  diem,  frequens  est  mercatus,  ad  ecclesiam  parochialem 
Birs  vocatam.  In  extrema  Garriochae  ora,  qua  Strathbogiam 
spectat,  circa  idus  Octobres,  est  mercatus,  a  Regulo,  Indigete 
itidem  Divo  nomen  habet.  Succedit  qui  a  Covano  ejusdem 
farinae  Divo,  Turaviae  itidem  celebratus  post  nonas  Octobres. 
Dein  omnium  sanctorum,  ad  ecclesiam  parochialem  Fordisio 
in  Boena,  ad  Calend.  Novemb.  Divi  Martini  forum  Strathbogiae 
habetur  idibus  Novembris.  Postremus  quiq^  annum  claudat, 
ad  solstitium  hybernum,  Deerse  in  Buchania,  Nundinae  qua^  a 
306.  Dunstano  non  illo  Anglo,  sed  nostrate  Divo  nomen  habent. 
Hisce  diebus  confluit  omnigenum  genus  hominum  faeminarumq^ 
Negotiatio  et  permutatio  equorum,  bourn,  ovium  stremie 
exercetur,  ut  plurimum  ad  plusculos  dies  producto  commercio, 


ABERDEEN— BANFF  267 

prostat  venale  quicquid  domi  habetur  quod  possit  argento 
mutari,  telse  presertim  laneae  rudes,  quae  ad  evehendum  a 
mercatoribus  urbanis  avide  expetuntur,  telae  itidem  lineae 
candidissimae,  tenuissimae  e  Strathbogia  et  Strathyla,  quae  in 
hoc  primas  tenent,  hue  advectae ;  non  desunt  exoticae  merces 
sed  magna  copia  proponitur  undecunq^  lucri  spe.  Nihil 
praeter  suum  genus  deesse  videas,  hoc  animalis  genus  alibi 
teiTarum  in  deliciis  si  quod  aliud  nescio  quo  fato,  a  gente 
nostra  ut  plurimum  negligitur;  non  desunt  tamen,  sed  in 
pretio  non  sunt.  Ex  infmitis  nundinis  levioris  momenti,  haec 
memorasse  satis  sit.  Jam  quod  Divorum  toties  meminerim, 
ignoscant  severae  frontis  homines  et  nostri  saeculi  Aristarchi, 
non  enim  aliter  haec  referri  possunt,  cum  vulgus  omnia  haec 
nundinarum  sic  nominibus  et  temporibus  distinguant  et  desig- 
nent,  quos  in  hoc  sequi  ut  intelligar  plane  necesse  fuit. 


The  following  is  a  translation  into  English  of 
the  five  Latin  parts  of  the  Collections  relating 
to  the  Shires  of  Aberdeen  and  Banff. 

Some  remarks  on  these  are  given  in  the 
Introduction — in  regard  to  the  authorship  and 
other  points  of  interest. — ED. 

NOTES  for  a  Description  of  the  two  shires  of  ABERDEEN 
and  BANFF  in  Scotland  beyond  the  Mountains. 

These  two  shires  have  as  their  boundaries  on  the  south  the  Grampian 
mountains  and  the  river  Dee,,  and  on  the  west  the  very  rapid  river  Spey, 
not  in  its  whole  length,  but  after  it  has  already  traversed  Badenoch  and 
Strathspey.  But  a  part  of  the  extensive  bay  that  is  Ptolemy's  Varar, 
now  the  Moray  Frith,  stretches  along  them  on  the  north  ;  the  other  sides 


268  TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

are  lashed  by  the  open  sea.  The  adjacent  districts  on  the  south  are  the 
Mearus  and  a  part  of  Angus ;  on  the  west  Badenoch  and  some  portion 
of  Moray.  The  air  in  this  region  is  somewhat  cold  for  those  unaccus- 
tomed to  it  and  for  natives  of  a  warmer  clime,  but  it  is  temperate  and 
healthy.  The  summers  never  defer  the  hope  of  a  crop  with  rains,  nor 
disappoint  it.  The  winters  are  mild  beyond  what  might  be  expected  in 
the  region,  which  appears  strange  to  the  foreigners — Danes,  Prussians, 
and  Poles — who  sail  hither,  since  in  their  countries  the  land  during  the 
whole  winter  lies  hidden  under  perpetual  snows  and  hardened  with  keen 
frost.  There  is  no  occasion  here  for  stoves  ;  the  hearths  are  well  supplied 
with  peat,  which  is  dug  out  of  the  ground,  and  is  black  and  bituminous, 
not  light  and  spongy,  but  heavy  and  firm  ;  it  is  dried  by  exposure  to  the 
winds  and  the  sun,  since  it  is  not  taken  out  of  the  beds  of  rivers  and  marshes, 
as  in  Holland,  but  when  the  turf  is  removed  it  betrays  itself  everywhere 
on  the  surface  of  the  ground.  The  following  is  the  original  cause  of 
this.  When,  several  centuries  ago,  all  places  were  shaggy  with  woods  to 
the  great  hindrance  of  tillage,  as  these  forests  were  felled,  or  were  rotting 
with  age,  moss  grew  over  them,  especially  in  wet  and  sunken  places. 
This  moss  was  at  first  light  and  spongy,  but,  increasing  every  year  by 
new  additions,  grew  hard,  and  became  firm  and  fertile  land,  which,  no 
doubt,  is  unfit  for  the  plough  unless  it  is  burned,  and  then  the  crops 
luxuriate  wonderfully  with  the  ashes.  After  a  year  or  two  new  ashes 
must  be  had  with  new  fires.  Farmers,  induced  by  this  store  of  manure, 
eagerly  desire  these  lands.  The  earth  itself,  to  a  depth  of  eight,  and 
sometimes  twelve  feet,  is  clothed  with  this  layer,  but  when  opened  up 
it  discloses  huge  trunks  of  trees  parted  from  their  roots  or  rotten  with 
age,  and  in  many  instances  destroyed  by  fire.  In  the  lower  districts, 
down  even  to  the  very  shores,  esculent  and  hard  oaks,  alders,  willows, 
and  hazels  used  to  be  in  great  abundance.  In  the  mountainous  tracts 
pine,  Scots  fir,  and  spruce,  which  for  the  most  part  remain,  were  more 
frequent,  but  the  birch  was  common  to  both  the  higher  and  the  lower 
grounds ;  it  was,  however,  in  greatest  plenty  in  the  lower.  Where  the 
land  is  more  suitable  for  tillage,  the  wood  has  fallen  off  and  grown 
scarce,  and  for  this  reason  timber  for  buildings  is  conveyed  by  sea  from 
the  neighbouring  Norway  ;  there  is  enough  at  home  for  country  pur- 
poses. What  remains  of  the  home  woods  is  difficult  to  transport  from 
remote  places  over  rough  tracks.  The  configuration  of  the  ground  is 
variable  ;  where  it  is  far  from  the  sea  it  rises  into  mountains,  and  the 
lower  parts  are  separated  by  hills,  which  are  watered  by  rivers  or  burns. 
Where  the  land  changes  will  be  told  in  the  subsequent  pages,  but  in  its 
nature  it  is  not  unproductive.  It  returns  with  interest  what  human 
needs  require,  if  care  is  taken.  Wheat,  rye,  barley,  and  oats  are  to  be 
had  in  plenty,  and  of  the  leguminous  plants,  pease  and  beans  ;  the  other 
crops  are  neglected,  though,  however,  they  would  not  fail  were  their  cul- 
tivation attended  to.  Shrubs,  grasses,  and  plants  for  medical  uses  are  not 
lacking  in  gardens,  plains,  and  mountains ;  the  land  gives  a  hospitable 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— BANFF  269 

reception  even  to  foreign  importations,  whether  in  the  seed  or  in  slips,  as 
we  have  found  from  the  daily  experiments  of  inquiring  men,  so  that  what- 
ever is  absent  or  present  must  be  set  down  entirely  to  the  indolence  or 
the  industry  of  the  inhabitants.  In  the  higher  and  mountainous  locali- 
ties, as  the  nature  of  the  ground  suggests,  pasturage,  which  is  a  more 
leisurely  life,  is  fancied,  but  in  the  lower  tracts,  where  the  soil  is  more 
genial,  the  plains  fertile,  and  the  hills  fruitful,  the  people  devote  them- 
selves wholly  to  tillage.  This  is  their  sole  pursuit,  and  no  place  is  spared 
where  there  is  hope  of  a  crop,  or  facilities  exist  for  the  plough  ;  meadows 
and  pastures  do  not  escape  this  avidity.  Their  attention  to  hay  is  slack, 
while  they  try  to  remedy  this  deficiency  with  oat  and  barley  straw,  of 
which  the  domestic  animals,  housed  during  the  winter,  are  very  fond. 
The  sea  is  always  open  and  navigable,  unless  storms  hinder,  to  which  not 
only  ours,  but  all  seas  are  exposed.  It  also  abounds  remarkably  with  fish, 
but  men  from  the  dregs  of  the  populace,  who  have  given  themselves  up 
to  this  life,  follow  the  fishing  for  daily  requirements,  and  not  for  gain 
from  trade.  In  these  circumstances  foreigners,  especially  Dutchmen, 
while  they  make  great  profit  every  day  before  our  eyes  from  the  capture 
of  herring  and  other  fish,  seem  to  upbraid  with  laziness  those  whose  pursuit 
this  ought  to  be.  And  although  these  coasts,  being  free  from  sandbanks, 
shoals,  and  shallows,  afford  a  suitable  anchorage  with  their  sandy  bottom, 
still  they  are  harbourless,  and  accessible,  particularly  for  larger  ships,  at 
only  a  few  ports  which  I  shall  have  to  mention  afterwards.  The  rivers 
are  wonderfully  productive  in  fish,  mostly  salmon.  Every  year  several 
ships  are  laden  with  these  and  other  goods  which  the  country  yields,  and 
bring  back  what  is  not  produced  at  home,  or  if  their  gains  have  been  plen- 
tiful there  is  a  money  return.  On  this  fishing  as  great  pains  are 
expended  as  there  is  indolent  neglect  of  the  wealth  of  the  sea. 
If  the  genius  of  the  inhabitants  is  looked  at,  since  I  owe  my  birth 
to  this  quarter  I  must  speak  with  modesty,  and  here,  as  also  every- 
where, we  must  worship  at  the  shrine  of  truth  ;  yet,  not  to  say  a 
word  beyond  the  truth,  those  who  are  intimately  acquainted  with  these 
localities  will  admit  that  the  inhabitants  surpass  in  gentler  temperament, 
in  subdued  judgment,  and  in  culture  of  mind  and  manners  all  their 
neighbours,  but  particularly  those  who  live  where  our  kingdom  lies  to 
the  north  and  west  of  these  shires.  This  is  due  partly  to  foreign  travel 
and  to  the  University  of  Aberdeen,  to  which  great  numbers  flock  from 
all  quarters,  the  youth  from  the  mountainous  country  to  lay  aside  their 
native  barbarism,  others  to  get  up  the  rudiments  of  piety  and  the  higher 
sciences,  and  fit  themselves  for  business,  whether  public  or  private. 
Now  if  you  look  at  the  humbler  class  and  the  common  crowd,  they  follow 
agriculture  mainly,  or  devote  themselves  to  the  meaner  trades,  which 
they  practise  hardly  with  success ;  still,  some  come  to  the  front.  But 
the  class  of  better  quality  or  distinguished  birth,  citizens  also  and  towns- 
people, from  their  earliest  years  are  trained  in  letters,  and  when  they 
grow  up,  a  foreign  education  suits  them.  Trade  is  left  to  the  dwellers 


270  TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

in  cities  and  towns.  The  better  classes,  to  their  own  great  misfortune, 
disdain  that  kind  of  life  as  unsuitable  to  their  birth,  and  hence  comes 
poverty,  to  alleviate  which  they  address  themselves  to  the  profession  of 
arms.  This,  in  many  places  abroad,  and  especially  in  Holland,  Germany, 
and  France,  a  nation  friendly  to  and  beloved  by  them,  they  have  prac- 
tised for  many  years  with  distinction,  for  with  their  keen  and  fiery 
genius,  whether  they  bind  themselves  to  the  Muses  or  to  Mars,  they 
make  no  little  headway.  Those  whose  time  of  life  has  grown  cool, 
spending  their  leisure  at  home  in  their  country-houses  and  on  their 
estates,  prefer  a  rural  to  a  city  life,  seldom  visiting  the  towns  except  at 
the  call  of  business.  But  neither  do  merchants  and  tradesmen  escape 
this  brand  of  idleness  :  very  many  of  them,  increased  in  wealth,  settling 
at  home,  spend  the  rest  of  their  life  free  from  labours.  By  our  ancestors 
frugality  was  reckoned  among  the  virtues ;  at  the  present  day,  through  in- 
tercourse with  foreign  lands,  other  manners  have  been  acquired,  drunken- 
ness, revellings,  luxury  in  dress,  which  have  brought  many  to  poverty ;  and 
yet  they  do  not  desist.  The  rivers  abound  with  fishes  of  various  kinds, 
especially  trouts,  of  which  six  distinct  varieties  are  to  be  found,  all  very 
well-flavoured  and  pleasant  to  the  taste,  nor  are  they  denied  to  the  sick, 
since  they  live  among  rocks,  and  are  found  only  in  pure  and  clear  waters. 
It  is  wonderful  how  every  watercourse  teems  with  them.  These  rivers 
afterwards  to  be  mentioned  yield  pearl-bearing  shells,  from  which  some- 
times large  pearls  worth  a  price  are  got.  These  shells  are  found  in  a 
muddy  bed.  The  art  of  fishing  them  out  is  left  to  the  meaner  people,  who 
being  unacquainted  with  the  business  often  return  empty-handed.  There 
are  not  lacking  various  kinds  of  birds,  whether  these  disport  themselves 
on  the  waters  or  on  the  hills,  and  thus  there  is  an  opportunity  for  frequent 
fowling.  There  is  the  chase  of  wild  beasts,  such  as  stags  and  does,  but 
it  is  confined  to  woods  and  forests  and  mountains ;  in  this  sport,  more 
than  in  any  other,  our  ancestors  took  special  delight.  Noxious  animals 
and  such  as  prey  upon  flocks  are  absent,  except  foxes,  and  these  are 
rare,  for  wolves  are  believed  to  be  now  all  but  extinct,  or  if  any  exist, 
they  are  far  away  from  the  more  cultivated  localities  and  human  civilisa- 
tion. There  is  only  one  class  of  serpents,  hidden  in  rocky  mountains  or 
mossy  heaths,  so  that  there  is  little  danger  from  them.  The  toad  is 
rare,  nor,  so  far  as  I  know,  is  any  other  poisonous  creature  found. 
Veins  of  sandstone  occur  in  different  places,  and  these  of  many  kinds. 
When  polished  and  cut  by  skilful  workmanship  into  various  shapes, 
these  stones  supply  the  lack  of  marble,  and  lend  a  fair  gracefulness  to 
buildings.  Of  limestone  there  is  such  abundance  that  in  many  districts 
it  is  used  for  manuring  the  fields,  the  results  being  highly  satisfactory 
in  crops.  Many,  with  only  this  manure  for  exhausted  fields,  have  so 
ploughed  them  up  as  to  increase  their  income.  There  are  likewise 
different  kinds  of  millstones,  and  also  plenty  of  stones  that  can  be  cut 
for  house-slates  and  gutters.  I  cannot  refrain  from  describing  a  sort  of 
small  stone  peculiar  as  it  were  to  these  localities,  known  to  or  mentioned 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— BANFF  271 

by  no  previous  writer,  and  I  wonder  how  it  escaped  the  diligence  of  our 
Boece,  who  spent  the  greatest  part  of  his  life  here,  and  was  often  too 
keen  about  such  things.  This  stone  is  neither  precious  nor  transparent ; 
it  is  composed  of  very  hard  and  brittle  flint,  of  which  there  is  too  great 
abundance  here.  These  small  stones  display  art,  but  of  a  quality  that  no 
artist  could  attain  from  material  so  fragile.  They  are  found  in  two  forms, 
one  very  like  a  dart  hooked  with  iron,  ending  in  three  distinct  heads 
of  a  triangular  shape  ;  the  other  kind  exactly  represents  the  iron  of  a 
hunting-spear,  and  is  of  various  sizes  and  colours,  the  length  being  two 
inches  or  an  inch  and  a  half,  while  the  thickness  is  nearly  that  of  two 
grains  of  corn  or  one,  all  rough  and  unpolished.  There  remain  traces 
as  it  were  of  iron  tools  ;  these  marks  require  to  be  smoothed  down,  and 
all  the  sides  are  sharp.  In  this  soil  these  wonderful  little  stones  are 
occasionally  discovered  by  chance  on  the  fields  and  on  the  public  and 
beaten  highways,  but  they  are  never  found  by  searching.  To-day 
perhaps  you  may  discover  them  where  yesterday  there  was  none,  and 
likewise  after  midday  where  in  the  hours  of  the  forenoon  all  was  clear 
of  them.  It  is  on  summer  days  when  the  sky  is  cloudless  that  this 
usually  occurs.  An  upright  and  trustworthy  man  told  me  that  one  was 
found  by  himself  on  the  top  of  his  legging,  as  he  was  riding  on  a  journey, 
and  I  know  that  the  same  thing  happened  to  a  woman,  who  when  on 
horseback  took  one  out  of  a  fold  of  her  dress.  The  common  people  call 
them  in  their  native  tongue  elf  arrow-heads.  If  you  translate  this  into 
Latin  it  means  the  iron  [sic]  points  of  arrows  which  the  fairies  shoot.  For 
they  name  fauns  and  fairies  and  that  class  of  spirits,  elves.  About  these, 
and  the  use  of  those  arrows  among  them  such  stories  are  told— and 
many  believe  them — as  it  would  be  silly  to  commit  to  paper.  I  have 
taken  care  to  add  their  shapes  and  sizes.  But  I  have  said  more  than 
enough  about  them.  There  still  exist  traces  of  paganism,  not  in  the 
feelings  of  men,  but  in  the  remains  of  places  dedicated  by  those  pagans 
to  worship.  Enclosures  of  huge  stones  arranged  in  a  circle  are  to  be 
seen  ;  one  stone  conspicuous  by  its  breadth,  facing  the  south,  appears 
to  have  supplied  the  place  of  an  altar.  These  boulders  were  in  many 
instances,  by  difficult  means  of  carriage,  fetched  from  a  distance.  There 
are  also  on  some  hills,  and  even  on  the  tops  of  mountains,  immense  cairns 
of  smaller  stones,  the  graves  of  nobles  who  lived  before  the  Christian  era, 
for  when  they  are  dislodged  and  dug  up,  bones  are  found.  There  are 
also  standing  stones  or  boulders  ;  some  with  figures  inscribed  on  them, 
but  no  letters,  are  believed  to  be  monuments  of  victories  or  defeats,  of 
which  the  recollection  has  perished.  Numerous  well-attended  fairs, 
from  the  beginning  of  the  year  until  the  days  of  midwinter,  here 
shorter  than  in  the  south,  stop  them,  are  held  in  all  these  districts  ; 
there  is  hardly  a  parish  church  that  has  not  its  own,  and  most  have 
several,  which  it  were  idle  to  mention.  Now  as  I  hasten  to  the  situation 
of  the  individual  districts,  I  am  delayed  by  the  circumstance  that  in 
describing  them  1  frequently  mention  Parliamentary  Barons,  and  I 


272  TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— BANFF 


must  tell  what  that  novel  expression  means.     Degrees  of  honours  and 
offices  unknown  to  the  Romans  have  compelled  me  to  do  this.     Thus, 
therefore,  take  it.     The  oldest  and  noblest  dignity  in  this  country,  even 
at  the  beginning  of  Christianity,  was  held  under  the  name  of  Abthanes 
and  Thanes.     That  dignity  disappeared  many  centuries  ago  ;  its  designa- 
tion remains,  as  many  estates  at  the  present  day  thence  derive  their 
names.     Afterwards,  as  prosperity  increased,  the  highest  council  of  the 
realm  was  divided  into  several  orders,  over  the  whole  of  which  the 
sovereign   presided ;    when   he   exercised   a   veto   this   council  had   no 
right  of  transacting  business,  and  with  his  approval  laws  were  made 
and  unmade.     It  consisted,  then,  of  three  orders :  Dukes,  if  there  were 
any,  and  frequently  there  were  none,  Marquises,  Earls,  Viscounts  and 
Barons,  whom  I  call  Parliamentary  (for  this  assembly  had  the  name  of  a 
Parliament),  made  up  one  order.     Of  these,  Marquises  and  Viscounts  are 
very  recent  among  us.     The  dignity  of  the  Counts,  who  are  Earls  in  the 
native  language,  and  of  the  Parliamentary  Barons,  who  are  Lords,  is  more 
ancient  than  that  of  the  rest,  but  the  Barons,  simply  so  called,  with  the 
remainder  of  the  gentry,  whose  numbers  and  power  are  great,  as  on  them 
the  strength  of   the    country  depends,  constituted   the   second    order 
through  persons  chosen  by  themselves,  so  as  to  prevent  crowding.     In 
like  manner  citizens  deputed  by  their  towns  and  cities  formed  the  third. 
The  Bishops  also,  while  they  existed,  and  in  more  ancient  times  the  rest 
of  the  Prelates  in  addition,  filled  up  a  regular  senate.     The  latter,  on 
account  of  reverence  for  sacred  things,  were  reckoned  as  first.     The  rank 
of  knight  was  held  in  the  highest  esteem  among  our  ancestors,  not  being 
conferred  even  on  the  most  honourable  men  without  good  reason.     It 
was  the  reward  of  military  bravery,  though  now  in  a  new  phase  of  affairs 
it  is  despised  by  the  better  class,  and  has  become  worthless  because  it  has 
descended  to  the  market-places  and  the  cities,  and  especially  since,  the 
privilege  having  been  sent  a  begging  by  the  sovereign,  it  became  heredi- 
tary and  lay  open  to  all  for  a  price.     Of  squires,  who  are  numerous  in 
England,  our  neighbour,  we  have  no  experience  in  our  country.     Here 
also  I  desire  to  warn  my  reader  that  though  our  kingdom  is,  generally 
speaking,  populated  with  few  villages,  paucity  of  inhabitants  must  not  be 
inferred.     The  reason  of  this  state  of  matters  is  as  follows.     Husband- 
men eager  for  tillage  thought  from  the  very  first  that  they  were  restricted 
in  villages,  and  that,  when  they  had  so  many  neighbours,  too  little  pro- 
vision was  made  for  agriculture ;  for  at  first  the  districts  were  divided 
into  village  settlements.     To  each  of  these  so  much  of  arable  laud  was 
allotted  as  could  be  tilled  with  four  ploughs.     These  sections  of  lands 
were  called  in  the  ancient  language  daachs,  which  signifies  village  allot- 
ments.     In  many  places  in  the  higher  districts   the   boundaries  still 
remain,  though  the  homesteads  have  been  separated.     But  when  the 
woods  had  been  cut  down  four  ploughs  were  no  longer  sufficient.     Wide 
extent  of  bounds  was  inimical  to  agriculture,  so  that  the  proprietors, 
dividing  the  fields,  set  limits  for  each  farmer  according  to  his  means,  in 


mil 


TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— MORT-LACH        273 

such  a  way  that  the  homesteads  were  continuous  but  not  contiguous,  I 
remember  seeing  instances  of  this  procedure  in  my  early  years.  The 
farmers  abandoned  their  villages  and  removed  each  to  his  own  posses- 
sion, where  any  vein  of  more  fertile  soil  attracted  him.  Here  the  home 
was  fixed,  and  so  it  remains  at  the  present  day. 

These  shires  embrace  within  their  limits  various  districts  and  tracts,  and 
the  reason  for  some  of  their  names  can  be  given.  For  the  word  strath, 
which  is  prefixed  to  several,  in  the  ancient  language  denotes  a  valley  or 
tract  bounded  on  both  sides  by  mountains.  Inner  and  Abir  mean  some- 
times a  confluence  of  rivers,  and  sometimes  a  river-mouth  ;  but  he  who 
traces  the  derivations  of  Mar,  Buchan,  Boyne,  and  Banff  will  not  throw 
away  his  labour  in  play.  According  to  Ptolemy,  the  inhabitants  were  the 
Tsezali,  and  the  furthest  cape  where  the  land  runs  out  to  the  east,  now 
Buchan  Ness,  was  the  Tsezalum  Promontorium,  a  name  unknown  to  our 
historians. 

STRATH-AVON  or  STRA-DOWN. 

The  whole  of  this  small  inland  district,  the  ancestral  property  of  the 
Marquis  of  Huntly,  lies  on  the  lower  course  of  the  river  Avon,  which 
Timothy  Pont,  who  had  surveyed  all  its  reaches,  told  me  is  the  clearest 
and  the  purest  in  its  waters  of  all  the  streams  of  our  entire  kingdom, 
but  this  gives  no  indication  of  valuable  land,  for  it  is  exceedingly  poor, 
with  scanty  crops  which  in  some  years  hardly  ripen  ;  and  owing  to  this, 
the  inhabitants  place  their  greatest  hope  in  pasturage,  which  never  dis- 
appoints them.  The  Avon,  flowing  out  of  a  small  loch  among  the  ridges 
of  the  rugged,  snow-clad  Bin-avon  (bin  in  the  ancient  language  denoting 
a  lofty  and  rough  mountain),  after  a  few  miles  receives  on  its  right  bank 
the  Bulg  burn,  which  issues  from  a  loch  of  the  same  name  ;  then  rushing 
like  a  torrent  through  a  rocky  and  rugged  valley,  receiving  many  streams, 
it  is  joined  likewise  on  the  right  bank  by  the  Livet,  a  river  that  conveys 
the  waters  of  many  streams  with  it ;  and  flowing  northwards  throughout 
its  whole  course,  except  at  its  source,  joins  the  Spey  at  Ballnadalloch 
Castle  outside  Strath-Avon.  At  the  confluence  of  the  Avon  and  the 
Livet  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  castle  of  Drimmin.  Further  up  on  the 
Livet,  Blairfindie  is  situated.  The  rest  of  the  locality  is  occupied  by 
country  cottages  scattered  throughout  the  valleys  of  these  rivers,  and 
however  much  the  ruggedness  of  the  mountains  may  seem  opposed  to  it, 
still  the  population  from  the  Bulg  burn  is  not  sparse. 


BALVANY,  BALVENY  or  MORT-LACH. 

Next  comes  Balvany  with  somewhat  kindlier  soil,  but  all  rough  with 
mountains.  It  obtained  its  name  from  the  Danes,  who  had  grasped 
these  places  also  (so  thoroughly  was  everything  assailed  by  them).  For 
bal  means  a  village  or  hamlet,  to  which  van,  by  a  slight  letterchange  for 

VOL.  II.  S 


274       TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— STRATH-ISLA 

dan,  is  added.  This  transposition  of  letters  is  common  in  the  ancient 
language,  and  is  recognised  as  a  refinement  of  speech.  The  pleasant 
river  Fiddich  intersects  this  tract.  After  receiving  the  Rinnes  burn  and 
many  other  inconsiderable  streams,  as  is  natural  in  a  mountainous 
district,  it  discharges  into  the  Spey.  The  source  of  the  river  Isla, 
from  which  the  district  next  to  be  described  has  its  name,  belongs  to  this 
stretch  of  country.  But  the  source  of  the  river  Fiddich  is  not  a  part  of 
this  domain.  The  tract  at  its  source  called  Glenfiddich,  with  the  Castle 
of  Achindown,  is  united  to  it  ecclesiastically,  but  the  civil  rights  belong 
to  the  Marquises  of  Huntly.  It  is  all  wooded  and  rich  in  grass.  On  the 
banks  of  the  Fiddich  stands  the  Castle  of  Balvany,  from  which  the  dis- 
trict has  its  name.  A  little  below,  on  the  same  river,  is  Kininoway,  and 
on  the  Rinnes,  one  mile  from  the  said  place,  is  the  church  of  Mortlach, 
whence  the  whole  district  often  has  its  name.  It  was  the  chief  see  of  the 
bishops  several  centuries  ago,  and  is  very  ancient,  having  had  Bean  as  its 
bishop.  At  the  village  of  Auchl uncart,  hardly  a  mile  from  the  king's 
highway  which  leads  to  Elgin  in  Moray,  there  is  rock  and  a  vein  of  fine 
hones,  of  which  some  are  rough,  others  smooth,  the  latter  hard,  the  former 
soft,  drawing  an  edge  with  water  or  oil,  and  in  such  abundance  that  they 
could  supply  the  whole  of  Britain.  The  people  of  the  neighbourhood  use 
these  instead  of  tiles  for  the  roofs  of  buildings.  At  Balvany  is  a  spring 
of  water  impregnated  with  alum,  and  underground  are  veins  of  stone  from 
which  alum  is  got.  This  domain,  down  from  the  time  of  James,  the 
second  of  that  name,  that  is  from  the  year  1440,  belonged  to  the  Steuart 
Earls  of  Athol.  He  presented  his  uterine  brother  with  it,  and  on  the 
failure  of  this  line,  the  Parliamentary  Barons  of  Saltoun  claimed  it  by  a 
pecuniary  bargain  ;  from  them  by  the  same  right  it  passed  to  the  family 
of  the  Inneses  ;  and  by  the  same  right  it  is  now  held  by  the  Earl  of 
Rothes. 

STRATH-ISLA. 

Where  now  the  mountains  begin  to  be  left  behind,  Strath-Isla  extends 
on  the  banks  of  that  river,  which  turning  its  waves  in  great  winding 
loops  first  to  the  north  and  then  to  the  east,  and  again  bending  to  the 
north-east  enters  the  river  Deveron  a  little  above  Rothiemay.  This 
district  has  a  fertile  soil  and  is  rich  in  both  corn  and  grass,  being  greatly 
benefited  by  the  limestone  which  is  found  here  in  such  abundance  that 
houses  are  built  of  it,  as  stones  of  other  kinds  are  somewhat  scarce. 
Here  the  inhabitants  work  industriously  at  making  lime  both  for  their 
own  use  and  to  have  it  ready  for  purchasers.  They  also  carry  on  a  pro- 
fitable trade  in  linen  webs  of  rather  fine  yarn,  all  of  which  however  derive 
from  Strathbogie  their  repute  at  the  fairs.  Keith,  a  village  with  a  church 
on  the  river's  bank,  with  its  stated  weekly  market,  attracts  people  from 
the  higher  grounds  owing  to  the  convenience  of  its  situation,  and  cus- 
tomers are  always  ready.  It  is,  besides,  on  the  king's  highway.  Very 
many  gentlemen  of  lower  rank  and  some  barons  have  houses  here. 


TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— STRATHBOGIE       275 

There  are  hardly  any  that  deserve  the  name  of  castles.  While  the 
whole  of  this  land  has  been  divided  among  many  proprietors,  the  ridges 
of  the  lofty  mountain  called  Balloch  separate  it  from  Strathbogie,  and 
the  range  of  low  hills  which  are  called  Altmor,  from  Enzie. 

ENZIE. 

This  small  district  has  as  its  boundaries  on  the  west  the  river  Spey,  on 
the  north  the  bay  of  the  sea  already  mentioned  by  me,  and  on  the  east 
the  district  of  the  Boyne.  The  inland  parts  border  on  Strath-Isla.  It 
is  entirely  devoted  to  crops,  and  never  disappoints  the  husbandman's 
hope.  Grass,  however,  is  scanty,  and  although  Moray  with  its  rich  soil, 
its  mild  climate,  its  crops  and  its  fruits,  bears  away  the  palm  over  all  the 
districts  on  this  side  of  the  Dee,  yet  Enzie  while  equal  in  crops  is  inferior 
in  garden  fruits,  more  through  the  fault  of  the  inhabitants  than  the 
nature  of  the  soil.  Here,  in  the  absence  of  lime,  the  fields  near  the  sea 
are  manured  with  seaweed,  of  which  a  great  quantity  is  thrown  on  the 
beach  by  the  tide  twice  a  day.  Servants,  noting  the  hours,  are  in  attend- 
ance, and  lest  any  of  it  should  be  lost,  at  ebb  tide  they  drag  the  fugitive 
seaweed  back,  plunging  into  the  sea  in  the  tempestuous  winter,  even  by 
night.  This  occupation,  however,  is  not  confined  to  these  localities,  but 
as  far  as  the  shores  extend,  and  where  the  sea  is  near,  it  is  common  to 
all,  unless  rocks  prevent  it.  On  the  banks  of  the  Spey  is  situated  Bog 
of  Gight,  an  elegant  and  spacious  castle,  built  to  a  great  height,  and 
magnificent  beyond  all  others  in  these  districts,  a  castle  to  which, 
whether  as  regards  pleasure  or  utility,  nothing  is  wanting.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  charming  gardens  and  an  extensive  park,  which  is  enclosed 
with  a  strong  wall  and  is  in  four  divisions,  for  the  rearing  of  deer,  of 
which  two  kinds  are  here  in  abundance,  as  also  of  coneys,  hares,  wild 
geese  and  ducks.  The  place  derives  its  name  from  its  sunken  and 
wooded  situation.  The  castle  was  in  former  years  splendidly  enlarged 
by  the  Marquis  of  Huntly,  the  proprietor  of  all  this  district.  Between 
it  and  the  neighbouring  Boyne  lies  a  wood  clothed  with  tall  oaks  when 
I  was  still  a  young  man ;  but  now  the  whole  having  been  cut  down  it 
flourishes  again  in  a  new  growth  among  the  hills. 

STRATHBOGIE. 

Strathbogie  is  a  wide  and  ancient  barony,  now  raised  to  an  earldom  by 
King  James.  It  is  watered  by  the  whole  of  the  Deveron  and  Bogie,  and 
in  it  they  unite.  Burns  and  rivulets  are  numerous,  and  from  these 
much  benefit  accrues  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil  both  for  crops  and  for 
grasses.  In  the  olden  time  it  was  divided  into  forty  village  settlements 
which,  as  1  have  said,  they  called  daachs,  and  so  much  land  was  allotted 
to  each  of  these  as  could  be  tilled  with  four  ploughs.  Now  every  plough 
is  drawn  by  four  or  five  yokes  of  oxen,  so  that  no  little  ground  is 
required.  Since  it  is  the  practice  in  our  country,  when  the  harvest  is 


276    TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— STRATHBOGIE 

ended,  to  work  the  ploughs  through  the  whole  winter  to  the  month  of 
March,  when  the  sowing  begins,  but  with  no  cessation  till  the  end  of 
May,  all  the  ploughs  are  doubled  «it  the  present  day,  when  the  whole 
of  the  woods  have  been  cut  down,  and  all  the  land  whence  there  is  hope 
of  a  crop  has  been  made  over  to  tillage.  Fine  linen  webs  manufactured 
here  are  specially  commended,  so  that  name  and  praise  come  to  the 
webs  of  all  those  in  the  neighbourhood  who  have  devoted  themselves  to 
this  occupation  ;  and  hence  there  is  profit  to  the  inhabitants,  who  expose 
them  for  sale  at  the  summer  fairs.  Of  oxen  particularly  there  are  great 
numbers,  fattened  on  grass  for  the  mart ;  of  sheep  and  horses  there  is 
all  that  is  required  for  country  needs,  and  also  for  supplying  markets. 
The  inhabitants  are  for  the  most  part  the  relatives,  and  all  are  the 
dependants,  of  the  Marquis  of  Huntly,  the  proprietor  of  this  district  for 
now  three  hundred  and  fifty  years  ;  for  the  family  of  the  Comyns,  which 
was  divided  into  several  branches  formidable  to  the  kings  in  critical 
times,  having  been  condemned  for  treason  and  banished  the  entire 
kingdom,  Robert,  the  first  king  of  that  name,  enriched  with  this  property 
Huntly's  ancestors,  whose  seat  before  that  time  had  been  in  the  Merse, 
the  shire  nearest  England.  The  castle,  which  is  the  capital  of  Strath- 
bogie,  whence  comes  the  name  of  the  district,  is  in  a  pleasant  situation 
at  the  confluence  of  the  said  rivers,  with  extensive  and  delightful 
gardens.  At  its  door  the  Deveron  is  spanned  by  a  stone  bridge,  and  at 
the  junction  of  the  rivers  there  is  a  vein  of  ash-coloured  lead  which  is 
called  bismuth.  On  the  Bogie  stands  Lismor  Castle,  and  below  it,  on 
the  opposite  bank,  Gartly.  On  the  Deveron  is  Innermarky  and  also 
Carnborrow ;  and  away  from  the  river  on  a  pleasant  stream  is  Petlurg, 
and  on  the  same  stream  Achanachy.  Many  other  places  are  left  without 
mention  as  I  hurry  on.  Additional  parts  of  this  district  are  Rothiemay 
Castle,  and  the  adjoining  parish  three  miles  below  Strathbogie,  after  the 
Deveron,  the  Bogie  and  the  Isla  have  already  united.  This  was  once  a 
portion  of  the  Barony  of  Strathbogie,  being  the  property  of  the  Parlia- 
mentary Barons  of  Saltoun,  but  now  it  has  come  to  the  Gordons.  There 
lies  also  at  the  source  of  the  Deveron  a  district  in  a  low  situation  in  the 
midst  of  mountains,  named  Cabrach,  at  the  foot  of  the  rugged  and  lofty 
mountain  called  the  Buck,  looking  across  to  Strathavon,  with  those  hills 
running  between  which  have  their  name  from  rough  precipices.  This 
hilly  ground  is  the  basin  of  the  burn  called  the  Black  Burn,  which  enters 
the  Deveron.  The  whole  of  this  locality  is  reserved  for  grass  and 
pasture,  of  which  there  is  here  a  wonderful  luxuriance.  In  the  summer 
it  is  thickly  dotted  with  shielings  ;  in  the  winter  time  the  people  remove 
for  the  most  part.  The  inhabitants  of  all  these  tracts  and  localities  that 
I  have  been  treating  of  are  vigorous,  active,  and  industrious,  and  when 
they  give  their  attention  to  the  art  of  war  and  the  discipline  of  camps, 
they  make  excellent  soldiers.  But  let  me  confess  the  truth,  for  I  must 
not  spare  my  clansmen  :  in  peace  and  in  war  alike  they  neglect  the 
Muses  and  worship  Mars. 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— BOYN  277 


BOYN. 

The  small  district  of  the  Boyn  has  a  fertile  soil  where  it  is  nearer  the 
sea,  towards  the  north,  but  it  is  not  so  in  the  inland  parts.  It  extends 
from  Enzie  along  the  shore  to  the  mouth  of  the  Deveron.  At  the 
entrance  to  the  district  is  Cullen,  a  town  of  considerable  antiquity.  It 
enjoys  the  rights  of  a  burgh,  but  it  is  without  a  proper  harbour,  and  is 
scarcely  worthy  of  the  name  of  a  moderately-sized  village.  Its  sole 
recommendations  are  its  productive  land  and  the  mansion  of  the  Earls 
of  Findlater,  who,  abandoning  the  Castle  of  Findlater,  which  is  built  on  a 
rock  in  the  sea,  removed  to  this  place,  a  mile  distant,  being  attracted  by 
the  agreeable  situation.  They  own  extensive  and  rich  estates  in  the 
neighbourhood,  for  they  have  on  the  stream  that  here  flows  into  the 
sea  the  Castle  of  Deskford,  two  miles  from  the  town,  and  not  far  from 
thence,  Durn.  In  this  vicinity  stands  Birkenbog,  the  castle  of  the 
Abercrombyes,  and  also  Glassach,  belonging  to  the  Gordons.  In  skirting 
the  shore  eastward  we  come,  at  a  distance  of  four  miles  from  Cullen,  to 
a  castle  called  Crag  of  Boyn,  a  beautiful  castle  certainly,  and  towards 
Banff  is  Buch-chragie.  The  proprietor  of  both  derives  his  titles  from 
the  whole  district.  The  town  of  Banff,  the  capital  of  this  shire,  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Deveron,  but  is  not  of  great  importance, 
since  the  place  is  harbourless.  It  is  exposed  to  the  fiercest  of  the  winds, 
the  north-west,  by  which  sometimes  the  water  of  the  river  is  diverted. 
The  inhabitants  are  few,  and  being  unequal  to  trading  by  sea,  they 
energetically  labour  the  fields  near  the  town.  There  is  also  salmon- 
fishing.  Not  far  from  the  town  is  Inch-Drevir,  a  country-house  of  the 
Parliamentary  Baron  who  has  his  titles  from  the  town.  Further  inland 
is  Park,  a  castle  of  the  Gordons  at  the  base  of  a  lofty  mountain  named 
the  Knock,  but  it  can  hardly  be  reckoned  in  this  district.  The  judicial 
superintendence  of  the  whole  country  that  goes  under  the  name  of 
Banff  was,  before  the  time  of  King  Robert  i.,  the  heritable  right  of  the 
Comyns,  Earls  of  Buchan,  a  house  which,  surpassing  all  the  others  in 
the  whole  kingdom  in  wealth,  numbers,  and  power,  fell  through  a  charge 
of  treason,  as  we  have  said.  By  favour  of  the  kings  they  were  succeeded 
by  the  Stuarts,  whose  house  in  the  last  century,  when  male  fiefs  were 
rarer  than  now,  passed  by  right  of  marriage  to  the  Douglases,  and  by  the 
same  right  within  our  memory  these  were  succeeded  by  the  Erskines  of 
the  house  of  the  Earls  of  Mar.  But  the  small  district  that  we  are 
describing  is  chiefly  held  by  the  Ogilvies  or  their  dependants.  The 
principal  personage  of  this  family  in  this  locality  is  the^Earl  of  Findlater, 
whose  ancestors,  coming  out  of  Angus  from  the  neighbourhood  of 
Dundee,  here  first  settled.  As  the  estate  was  acquired  by  a  husband's 
right  in  virtue  of  his  marriage  with  an  heiress  named  Sinclair,  from 
them  is  descended  the  family  of  the  Barons  of  Boyn,  and  from  this 
family  also  a  third,  that  of  the  Parliamentary  Baron  who  has  his  title 
from  the  town  of  Banff. 


278  TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— BUCHAN 


BUCHAN. 

Buchan  begins  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Deveron,  lying  along  the 
coast  and  stretching  eastward  to  the  entrance  of  the  bay  called  Varar 
(the  Moray  Frith)  ;  thence  the  shore  bends  round  to  the  south.     Inland 
the  boundaries  are  uncertain.     Some  think  that  it  ought  to  be  continued 
to  the  river  Don,  while  others  make  it  end  at  the  river  Ythan,  naming- 
the  remainder  Formartine.     I  know  an  ancient  barony  called  by  that 
name,,  which,  after  being  possessed  by  various  persons,  disappeared  with 
the  name.     Plains  or  hills  occupy  the  whole  of  Buchan,  which  is  entirely 
devoted  to  the  plough  and  agriculture,  and  is  watered  by  innumerable 
streams.     It  is  rich  in  oxen  and  sheep,  and  there  are  no  mountains. 
Only  one  height  is  loftier  than  its  surroundings,  which  they  call  Mor- 
mond  ;  it  is  scarcely  of  the  size  of  a  moderate  hill  in  the  higher  districts. 
Nowhere  else  throughout  the  whole  kingdom  is  it  possible  to  see  an 
equal  space  of  level  land  clear  of  mountains.     The  river  Urie  issuing 
from  two  sources,  and  running  from  west  to  east  in  two  streams,  flows  in 
one  after  ten  miles,  and  enters  the  sea  under  one  name  at  Innerugie. 
But  the  Ythan,  which  has  not  a  long  course,  being  enlarged  by  many 
streams,  is  far  richer  in  water  than  the  Ugie,  and  likewise  mingles  with 
the  sea  below  the  village  of  Newburgh,  bending  at  its  mouth  to  the 
south-east.     Gliding  through  level  ground,  it  meets  the  tide  higher  up 
than  the  remaining  rivers  of  these  shires,  but  the  sandy  shores  injure  the 
harbour,  which  can  be  entered  only  by  smaller  vessels.     Now  to  return 
to  the  point  where  I  deviated.     In  skirting  the  shore  from  Banff  east- 
ward,  Colen,  where  the  mansion  of  the  Barclays,  Barons  of  Towy  stands, 
is  seen.     Next  follows  Troup,  built  on  a  rock  on  a  neck  of  land,  but  now 
neglected.     Pennan  follows  on  the  shore,  where  there  is  a  noted  quarry 
for  millstones,  which  are  transported  far  and  wide.     Petslego,  a  castle  of 
the  Parliamentary  Baron  of  the  house  of  Forbes,  is  next,  and  almost  adjoin- 
ing it  the  country-house  of  Petulie,  belonging  to  the  Barons  of  Philorth. 
Then  is  seen  the  promontory  of  Kynairds-head,  and  at  it  the  small  town 
of  Fraserburgh,    where   fifty  years   ago   the  distinguished   knight   Sir 
Alexander  Fraser,  Baron  of  Philorth,  built  a  town  and  enlarged  the 
place  with  liberties  granted  by  the  king.     He  also  formed  a  stone  break- 
water at  great  expense,  first  on  unsuitable  ground,  and  then,  transferring 
the  works  elsewhere,  he  made  a  harbour,  so  that  at  the  present  day  the 
place  is  pretty  busy.     The  Parliamentary  Barons  of  the  surname  Fraser 
were   famous   in   former   centuries,   but   disappeared    many  years  ago 
through  the  failure  of  heirs-male.      Of  those  who   survive,  the  most 
ancient  house  is  this  one  of  Philorth,  to  which  all  of  that  surname  about 
Inverness,  who  are  spread  out  into  many  branches,  and  hold  large  estates, 
owe  their  origin.     Proceeding  two  miles,   you  come  to  Carnbulg,  the 
castle  of  the  Parliamentary  Barons  of  Mulkal,  of  the  Fraser  family, 
which  is  followed  by  Innerallochy,  also  a  castle  of  the  Frasers.     The 
coast  now  begins  to  bend  to  the  south,  where  there  is  the  small  bay  of 


TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— BUCHAN  279 

Strabeg,  once  noted  for  its  harbour,  but  now  almost  blocked  with  sands. 
Traces  remain  of  the  town  of  Rattray,  which  now  follows  the  fortunes  of 
the  harbour.  Our  historian  Boece  is  surprised  that  this  is  the  only  river 
that  salmon  do  not  enter ;  but  there  is  nothing  here  to  bear  the  larger 
fishes  except  two  muddy  rivulets  so  scant  of  water  that  the  fishes  they 
contain  are  hardly  equal  in  size  to  trouts.  Five  miles  south  of  this, 
Innerugie,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ugie,  a  famous  castle  of  the  Earls  Maris- 
chal,  presents  itself.  This  barony,  with  many  estates,  had  once  been  the 
property  of  the  Parliamentary  Barons  whose  surname  was  Cheyn,  but  by 
the  failure  of  heirs-male  it  passed  by  right  of  marriage  to  the  ancient 
and  noble  house  of  the  Keiths  (whose  Chief  is  hereditary  Marischal  of 
the  kingdom).  These  derive  their  origin  from  the  Picts,  who,  though 
driven  many  centuries  ago  from  their  ancestral  seats  and  the  whole 
kingdom,  were,  as  we  may  easily  believe,  in  many  instances  spared.  This 
house  of  Keith  has,  beyond  all  the  rest,  the  largest  properties  in  the 
whole  of  this  district;  even  in  Mar  and  the  Mearns  it  holds  considerable 
estates,  about  which  I  will  write  elsewhere.  Buchan  Ness  follows,  two 
miles  from  this,  and  at  it  is  Peterhead,  in  a  place  suitable  for  a  sea  trade 
if  industry  were  applied  ;  but  the  breakwater  which  was  once  at  the 
harbour  is  almost  gone.  As  we  still  proceed  along  the  shore,  the  first 
object  worthy  of  mention  that  we  meet  here  is  Bowness,  a  name  by  which 
a  curved  promontory  is  meant.  Here  on  a  rocky  peninsula  stands  the 
famous  mansion  of  the  Earl  of  Errol,  hereditary  Constable  of  this  realm, 
but  it  is  not  the  business  of  this  summary  to  add  the  story  of  the  remark- 
able rise  of  this  house.  The  general  consent  of  our  historians  has  not 
neglected  its  memorable  annals,  and  the  deeds  that  were  done  at  the 
village  of  Luncarty  in  the  year  by  its  founder  Hay,  for  this  is  the 

family  surname.  Their  ancestral  seat  was  Errol,  with  its  magnificent 
estates,  on  the  banks  of  the  Tay,  where  at  the  present  time  the 
descendants  of  this  family  are  very  strong.  But  they  settled  here  in 
Buchan  on  the  fall  of  the  Comyns,  having  been  presented  with  large 
estates  by  King  Robert  i.  About  a  mile  from  this,  on  the  sandy  beach, 
a  battle  was  fought  with  the  Danes  ;  the  name  Crow  Dan  [Cruden]  is  still 
given  to  the  place,  and  to  the  church  built  in  the  same  locality.  Further 
along  the  shore  are  the  ruins  of  the  Castle  of  Slains,  and  at  it,  several 
hundred  yards  from  the  rocky  shore,  there  rise  springs  of  waters  that 
turn  to  stone.  Wherever  they  flow  among  the  bends  of  the  rocks  they 
petrify ;  but  they  vary  in  softness  and  colour,  which  is  somewhat  dim 
from  the  blackness  of  the  rocks.  There  is  one  cave,  which  cannot  be 
reached  except  at  ebb-tide,  where  drops  of  water  trickling  down  through 
the  chinks  of  the  rock  assume  the  form  of  stone,  not  immediately,  but  in 
the  course  of  time,  but  not  the  whole  of  the  water,  for  there  are  big  pores 
in  the  stone  where  the  pure  water  stops.  When  this  dries  up,  the 
pores  remain,  as  may  be  seen  in  tuffs.  From  this  stone  a  very  white  and 
tenacious  lime,  most  useful  for  building  purposes,  is  got.  I  know  that 
such  waters  are  found  in  various  countries,  but  there  is  hardly  any  other 


280  TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— BUCHAN 

in  Britain.  Now  let  us  follow  the  course  of  the  Ugie,  which  though  it 
waters  fertile  plains  has  few  objects  worthy  of  mention,  while  the  tenants 
of  the  Earl  Marischal  hold  the  better  part  of  it.  On  the  North  Ugie  is 
Strichen,  a  castle  of  the  Erasers  ;  on  the  other  Ugie  first  is  Fedderet, 
and  next  to  it  Brucklay,  castles  belonging  to  the  Irvines  of  Drum  ;  as 
we  descend  there  is  Glackriach.  Below  it  on  the  river  in  the  valley  was 
the  Monastery  of  Deir  belonging  to  the  Cistercian  Order.  It  was 
pleasant  and  rich,  but  now  hardly  the  ruins  survive.  Its  situation  was 
in  a  low-lying  valley  shaded  with  woods,  where  now  there  is  not  a  vestige 
of  shrubs.  George,  Earl  Marischal,  a  Commissioner  to  Denmark  from 
King  James  for  the  betrothal  of  Queen  Anne,  was  presented  by  him  with 
this  monastery,  but  experienced  more  loss  than  gain  from  this,  as  hardly 
anything  was  equal  to  the  magnanimity  of  that  true  nobleman.  A  mile 
from  the  monastery  is  a  village  of  the  same  name  as  the  monastery,  with 
a  church.  Thence  to  the  south-east,  two  miles  from  the  river,  are  Kin- 
mundie  and  Ludwharn,  the  latter  a  country-house  of  the  Keiths,  and  the 
former  of  the  Gordons.  At  the  river-mouth  opposite  Innerugie  is  Craig, 
a  castle  of  the  Earl  Marischal.  Now  I  will  follow  the  channel  of  the 
Ythan  upwards.  This  part,  like  the  tract  between  that  river  and  the 
Don,  is  rich  land,  and  looks  bright  with  noblemen's  castles,  and  country- 
houses  innumerable,  some  of  which,  with  the  addition  of  their  proprietors' 
surnames,  I  have  pleasure  in  recounting,  but  in  my  native  tongue,  which 
does  not  smack  of  Latinity.  At  the  mouth  of  the  river  the  proprietors  on 
both  sides  have  for  a  long  time  suffered  no  little  loss  by  the  withdrawal 
of  highly  productive  fields  near  the  sea  from  all  cultivation  owing  to  the 
sand.  The  names,  then,  are  Foveran,  the  property  of  the  Irvines;  Knok- 
hall  ;  the  castles  of  the  Udnys,  with  the  village  of  Newburgh  ;  Meikleand 
Little  Dublertie,  country-houses  of  the  Inneses  and  the  Setons ;  Fuddes, 
two  miles  from  the  river,  the  property  of  the  Uduys  ;  Dudwick,  towards 
the  north,  belonging  to  the  Fullertons ;  on  the  river  are  Abbotshall, 
the  property  of  the  Forbeses  ;  Ardgicht,  of  the  Kennedys  ;  the  parochial 
village  of  Ellen  ;  Ochter-Ellen,  belonging  to  the  Udnys  ;  Essilmonth,  a 
castle  of  the  Earl  of  Errol;  at  a  distance  from  the  river,  to  the  north, 
are  Arnadge,  belonging  to  the  Irvines  ;  Saok,  to  the  Buchans  ;  Nether- 
muir,  to  the  Gordons ;  and  Achnagat,  to  the  Strachans  :  Dumbreck,  the 
property  of  the  Mowett,  or  de  Monte-alto  family ;  Pitmaedden,  of  the 
Setoris  ;  Tarves,  Tulielt,  Park  of  Kelly,  Udny,  belonging  to  the  Udnys  ; 
Tolwhon,  to  the  Forbeses;  Shethiun,  to  the  Setons;  Gicht,  to  the 
Gordons  ;  Sheeves,  to  the  Greys  ;  Fyvie,  the  fair  and  noble  mansion  of 
the  Earl  of  Dunfermline ;  Towie,  belonging  to  the  Barclays  ;  Bucholly, 
to  the  Mowetts.  These  places  are  for  the  most  part  on  the  river.  But 
seven  miles  from  Banff,  and  only  one  from  the  Deveron,  is  the  beautiful 
village  of  Turreff  in  a  place  suitable  for  hunting,  with  extensive  plains 
about  it,  and  surrounded  by  many  gentlemen's  houses,  such  as  Lathers 
and  Cragston,  owned  by  the  Urquharts,  Muiresk  by  the  Lyons,  and 
Delgattie  by  the  Hays. 


TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— GARIOCH  281 

Seven  miles  above  Banff,  with  a  southerly  exposure,  lies,  a  little  from 
the  Deveron,  a  village  called  Turreff,  on  a  stream  of  its  own  name,  in  a 
pleasant  situation  with  extensive  plains  around,  so  well  fitted  for  fowling 
and  hunting  that  there  is  no  place  in  these  shires,  and  hardly  in  others, 
«qual  to  it.  Six  miles  from  thence  towards  the  south,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Ythan,  is  seen  the  magnificent  and  spacious  mansion  called  Fivie, 
which  acknowledges  the  Earls  of  Dunfermline  as  its  owners.  Now  as 
we  follow  the  banks  of  the  Ythan  to  the  sea,  hills  or  plains  are  seen, 
smiling  with  rich  cultivation  or  grass,  and  adorned  with  noblemen's 
castles.  On  the  river  is  the  Castle  of  Gight,  and  at  it  a  wood,  which  Li 
now  a  rare  thing  in  these  places.  As  we  skirt  the  bank,  we  come  to 
Ochter-Ellen,  Ardgyth,  and  Abbotshall,  castles  in  the  neighbourhood, 
with  the  parochial  village  of  Ellen,  and  four  miles  from  that  to  the 
mouth  of  the  river  ;  but  over  this  it  is  useless  to  linger. 

FORMARTINE. 

But  all  the  land  that  lies  between  the  rivers  Ythan  and  Don  goes  by 
the  name  of  Formartine  among  the  inhabitants,  who  disdain  to  be 
reckoned  in  Buchan.  It  is  a  country  in  which  there  is  no  town,  for  the 
neighbouring  Aberdeen  intercepts  all  trade.  But  if  you  have  regard  to 
the  nature  of  the  soil,  or  the  characteristics  of  the  inhabitants,  it  is 
worthy  of  consideration,  and  second  to  no  district  in  these  shires.  Nay, 
it  far  surpasses  very  many  of  them  in  population,  in  fertility  of  soil,  in 
the  number  and  amenity  of  its  castles  and  country-houses,  and  in  mild 
and  cultured  manners  ;  but  it  would  be  far  too  laborious  to  go  minutely 
into  all  these  matters.  It  stretches  from  the  Ythan  to  Garioch  and  Mar. 
But  towards  the  south  it  is  separated  from  Strathbogie  by  a  tract  of  land 
united  to  no  other  district,  as  yet  possessing  no  proper  name,  and  seek- 
ing justice  partly  from  one  shire  and  partly  from  the  other.  The  parish 
churches  in  it  are  Innerkeithnie,  Abirkirdir,  Forrig,  and  Ochterles. 
In  this  district  are  seen  Frendraught  and  Kynairdy,  the  castles  of  the 
Viscounts  of  PYendraught,  with  some  other  country-houses  belonging 
to  various  persons. 

GARIOCH. 

Garioch  is  enclosed  between  Strathbogie,  Mar,  and  Formartine,  and 
nowhere  borders  on  the  sea.  The  origin  of  the  name  is  uncertain.  In 
the  ancient  language  garve  means  rough,  rocky,  uneven  land,  and  ach  a 
plain  or  level  ground,  words  that  do  not  correspond  with  the  configura- 
tion of  the  district.  For,  intersected  by  two  rivers  and  many  burns,  it 
is  entirely  situated  in  a  valley.  It  expands  in  fruitful  hills,  with  a  rich 
and  seasonable  harvest,  always  responsive  to  the  husbandman's  prayers. 
The  rugged  and  rocky  mountain  of  Benachie,  rising  to  seven  summits, 
stretches  along  its  southern  boundary,  and  shows  itself  conspicuous  to 
those  who  sail  along  the  coast.  The  river  Urie,  taking  its  rise  in  a  low 


282     TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— GARIOCH— MAR 

ridge,  not  far  from  the  castle  called  Gartly,  flowing-  through  a  barren 
valley,  struggling  through  broken  hills,  and  reaching  the  plains,  inter- 
sects its  centre  with  its  uneven  and  winding  channel,  and  joins  the  Don 
at  the  little  town  of  Innerurie.  The  Gadie  burn,  running  at  the  base  of 
Benachie,  and  measuring  the  mountain's  length,  mingles  with  the  same 
river  two  miles  above  Innerurie.  Here  there  is  no  lack  of  agreeable 
hunting  of  hares.  There  is  abundance  of  waterfowls,  partridges,  lap- 
wings and  other  birds ;  but  grass  is  rather  scarce.  A  mile  above  the 
village  called  Inche  there  is  a  hill  rounded  on  every  side,  of  moderate 
height,  and  adjacent  to  no  mountains  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  all  green 
with  rich  grass.  On  its  very  top  remain  the  ruins  of  a  castle  of  King- 
Gregory  i.,  built  about  the  year  of  salvation  880,  where  also  he  died.  I 
should  hardly  refer  to  this,  were  it  not  that  I  am  reminded  by  the  story 
about  sheep  feeding  there,  of  which,  not  in  the  case  of  all  the  sheep,  but 
of  some  occasionally,  the  maxillary  teeth  are  found  shining  with  a  golden 
colour.  I  remember  seeing  some  of  these.  From  this  circumstance  our 
Boece,  who  knew  little  about  metals,  thought  that  there  was  a  vein  of 
gold  under  the  ground.  But  let  the  physiologists  examine  what  the 
cause  of  this  phenomenon  is.  When  one  considers  the  matter  carefully, 
the  ground  seems  to  give  no  indication  of  any  such  thing.  At  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Don  and  the  Urie  is  situated  the  little  town  of  Innerurie, 
with  the  appearance  of  a  village,  amid  fertile  land,  a  place  of  some  anti- 
quity, and  rejoicing  in  the  privileges  of  a  royal  burgh,  as  they  call  it; 
but  the  neighbouring  Aberdeen  many  years  ago  attracted  all  business  to 
itself.  In  former  centuries,  especially  on  the  banks  of  the  Don,  the 
whole  neighbourhood  bristled  with  woods,  particularly  of  oak,  of  which 
at  the  present  day  no  traces  are  visible,  to  such  an  extent  has  excessive 
abundance,  while  no  attention  is  paid  to  it  and  there  is  no  thought  of 
the  future,  degenerated  into  want.  Not  far  from  this,  King  Robert  i., 
though  sick  and  carried  in  a  litter,  routed  John  Comyn,  Earl  of  Buchau, 
and  in  that  battle  so  completely  crushed  the  power  of  that  faction  that  it 
never  afterwards  rose.  He  laid  the  whole  of  Buchau  waste  with  hostile 
arms,  and  thenceforth  ruled  it  and  the  neighbouring  districts  in  peace. 
Later,  in  1411,  Alexander  Stuart,  Earl  of  Mar,  defeated  Donald  of  the 
Isles  (who  trusted  in  the  might  of  the  Hebrides)  in  a  bloody  battle  at 
the  village  of  Harlaw  in  this  locality,  and  gave  peace  to  these  districts. 
The  whole  of  this  country  is  thickly  populated,  and  there  is  no  lack  of 
castles,  country  houses,  and  mansions  belonging  to  men  of  distinguished 
birth.  The  greatest  part  of  this  district  was  many  years  ago  annexed  to 
the  Earldom  of  Mar,  and  at  the  present  day  adds  to  the  earl's  titles. 

MAR. 

The  lower  portion  of  Mar  nearer  the  sea  is  narrowed  by  the  rivers  Dee 
and  Don.  In  the  highest  parts,  it  broadens  away  from  these  rivers, 
being  remarkable  for  its  length,  but  unequal  in  its  width.  He  who 


TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— MAR  283 

shall  describe  these  two  rivers  and  their  tributary  streams  will  have  told 
almost  all  that  belongs  to  it,  so  much  do  the  inland  parts  abound  in  moors 
and  mountains.  For  the  Dee,  cleaving  the  Grampians  from  its  source 
to  its  mouth,  where  they  end  in  hills,  rolls  headlong  in  its  whole 
channel  among  these  mountains,  so  that  the  greatest  part  of  this  district 
is  unfit  for  corn  crops  ;  but  all  that  it  yields  to  the  sickle  is  of  excellent 
quality,  and  is  cut  down  always  in  seasonable  autumns.  These  mountains 
are  fairly  rich  in  herds  of  the  choicest  oxen  and  in  flocks  of  sheep  whose 
flesh  is  of  the  most  agreeable  flavour,  in  horses  for  country  work,  and  in 
goats  also  on  the  higher  ground.  The  wool  and  fleeces  in  this  of  all  the 
districts  described  by  me  are  far  the  best  in  the  whiteness,  softness,  and 
fineness  of  the  hair,  and  are  eagerly  sought  after.  But  these  advantages 
do  not  compensate  for  the  loss  caused  by  a  useless  soil.  The  air  is 
salubrious ;  the  inhabitants  are  vigorous,  shrewd,  and  frugal  people. 
The  aridity  of  the  land  and,  as  I  have  said,  its  barrenness  in  very  many 
places  sharpen  the  wits  of  the  inhabitants.  The  Dee  has  its  source  not 
far  from  the  range  of  low  hills  called  Scairsach,  which  separate  Braemar 
from  Badenoch,  at  the  base  of  the  lofty  mountain  called  Ben-Vroden, 
and  receiving  the  small  river  Galdy,  and  flowing  a  little  to  the 
south-east,  but  immediately  bending  eastward,  without  hindrance  from 
almost  any  windings,  although  confined  on  either  bank  by  high  and 
rugged  mountains,  running  swift,  clear,  and  free  from  mud,  always  in 
a  gravelly  bed,  after  being  spanned  by  a  bridge  two  miles  above  New 
Aberdeen,  as  it  is  called,  mingles  with  the  sea  near  the  town.  At 
Innerey,  which  has  its  name  from  the  Ey  burn,  seven  miles  from  its 
source,  it  first  meets  cultivation.  Then,  augmented  with  water  which 
many  large  rivers  from  the  neighbouring  mountains  supply,  it  washes 
on  the  right  Castletown  (meaning  the  village  of  the  fort),  a  stronghold 
of  the  Earls  of  Mar,  with  the  church  of  Kindrochit  in  its  vicinity.  On 
the  opposite  bank  is  Invercauld,  deriving  its  name  from  the  stream  on 
which  it  is  situated.  Next  comes  Crathie,  a  parochial  village.  A  little 
below  on  the  right  is  Abergeldie  Castle,  where  this  district  is  called 
by  the  name  of  Strathdee.  After  this  is  Glengairn  to  the  north,  whence 
flows  the  river  Gairn,  richer  in  water  than  the  others.  About  these 
places  the  river  is  narrowed  by  mountains,  but  forests  notable  for  tall 
firs  are  not  wanting.  Here  rises  a  high  mountain,  cut  off  as  it  were 
from  the  others,  completely  covered  with  woods  on  all  sides,  with  its 
rocks  and  its  summits  to  the  very  highest  point  occupied  by  a  beautiful 
forest  of  tall  evergreen  firs  of  immense  size,  while  the  pleasing  greenery 
of  limes  and  birches  clothes  the  slopes  of  the  mountains  and  the  plains 
nearest  the  river.  The  name  of  the  height  is  Crag-Gewis,  crag  meaning 
a  mountain,  and  gems  fir.  Among  the  numerous  forests  with  which 
the  river  is  wooded,  particularly  in  the  upper  parts,  this  mountain  is 
very  pleasant  to  see.  Next  comes  Glen  Muick,  a  small  valley  deriving 
its  name  from  a  river  that  issues  from  a  loch  of  the  same  name,  and 
after  a  course  of  a  few  miles  joins  the  Dee  on  the  right  bank,  nearly 


284  TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— MAR 

opposite  the  Gairn.  Below  Glen  Muick  on  the  same  bank  is  seen  the 
Pannanich  wood,  from  which  timber  is  frequently  carried  down  to 
Aberdeen,  but  after  being  prepared  and  rough-hewn  for  country  uses. 
For  logs  and  entire  trunks  of  trees  can  neither  be  brought  down  by 
the  rough  and  stony  road  nor  safely  cast  upon  the  swift-flowing  river, 
(although  there  is  sufficient  water).  There  follows  on  the  same  bank 
a  pleasant  castle,  Kennacoil,  a  name  that  signifies  the  head  of  the  wood, 
built  not  many  years  ago  at  a  delightful  retreat  by  the  Marquis  of 
Huntly,  in  a  place  everywhere  shaded  by  woods,  and  suitable  for  fishing, 
fowling,  and  the  hunting  of  stags  and  does.  Lower  down,  as  we  skirt 
the  bank,  the  river  Tanar  enters  the  Dee ;  it  rises  on  the  ridges  of  the 
lofty  nountains  that  form  the  boundary  between  Angus  and  Mar.  Its 
banks  are  crowned  with  an  immense  wood  of  tall  firs.  Then  follows 
the  parish  called  Birse,  which  extends  from  the  river  to  the  source 
of  the  stream  named  the  Feugh,  where  in  former  years  a  great  forest 
of  birch-trees  abundantly  satisfied  the  needs  of  the  lower  district ;  but 
now  having  been  entirely  cut  down  through  the  carelessness  of  those 
concerned,  it  is  slowly  growing  up  again  without  any  injury  to  the  land, 
which  is  very  well  adapted  for  this.  Now  Mar  has  the  Dee  as  the 
boundary  that  separates  it  from  Mearns,  the  nearest  province  on  the 
south ;  Mearns  even  crossing  the  river  takes  away  from  Mar  the 
parish  called  Banchory  Devenick,  where  not  far  from  the  bank  stands 
the  Castle  of  Crathes.  The  Baron  Thomas  Burnet,  proprietor  of  the 
ground,  has  by  care  and  skill  subdued  the  genius  of  the  place,  for 
by  planting  firs  and  other  trees  of  many  kinds  he  has  covered  the 
forbidding  crags,  laid  it  out  with  gardens,  and  clothed  it  with  pleasance. 
As  we  descend,  next  follows  Drum  Castle,  distant  a  mile  from  the  river, 
in  a  rugged  and  rocky  place,  and  excellently  equipped  with  buildings 
and  gardens.  It  has  the  Baron  Alexander  Irvine  who  is  of  ancient  and 
famous  lineage  and  is  Chief  of  his  clan  as  its  owner.  There  is  nothing 
further  of  note  until  the  river  passes  under  the  bridge.  But  in  the 
upper  district,  beyond  the  mouth  of  the  river  Gairn,  there  is  the  tract 
cabled  Cromar,  separated  by  mountains  from  the  whole  neighbourhood. 
On  the  west,  Morven,  a  mountain  loftier  than  the  rest,  and  the  forest 
of  Kilblene  [Culblean]  form  its  limit ;  the  other  parts  are  bounded  by 
mountains  in  no  way  remarkable.  But  though  it  reaches  the  Dee,  yet 
nowhere  has  it  less  fertile  land  than  where  it  is  nearest  to  the  river, 
for  in  those  plains  there  is  no  place  for  corn  crops  or  grass ;  for  all  is 
uncultivated  and  wild,  heather-clad  moorland.  But  beyond  a  mile  or 
two  from  the  river  the  aspect  of  matters  is  different :  within  the  said 
mountains  a  rich,  level  country  spreads  out,  not  into  any  extensive  plains, 
but  marked  with  numerous  hills,  and  entirely  devoted  to  corn,  thus 
forming  the  granary  of  all  the  neighbours.  Everything  here  is  excellent, 
everything  seasonable.  Divided  into  five  parishes,  it  acknowledges 
various  proprietors,  and,  what  may  surprise  you,  there  are  no  castles 
in  it,  and  no  noteworthy  country-houses,  nothing  in  short  except  the 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— MAR  285 

ruins  of  one  or  two  castles,  yet  it  is  extremely  well  cultivated.  Imme- 
diately next  to  it  is  Aboyne,  which  gives  the  titles  of  a  Parliamentary 
Baron  to  the  son  of  the  Marquis  of  Huntly  ;  and  in  its  vicinity  is  the 
Loch  of  Auchlossin  in  a  valley,  where  there  is  cultivated  land.  On  the 
river  is  situated  Kincardin,  a  village  with  a  church,  on  the  king's  high- 
way by  which  the  mountains  are  crossed.  Three  miles  below  this  the 
Canny  Burn  falls  into  the  Dee.  The  course  of  this  stream  is  pleasant 
and  fertile.  It  abounds  in  pearl-bearing  shells,  and  at  its  mouth  touches 
Banchory,  already  mentioned  by  us. 

The  river  Don,  which  surpasses  the  Dee  in  the  fertility  of  its  land  as 
much  as  it  is  unequal  to  that  river  in  size,  rises  in  the  ridges  of  the 
mountains  that  separate  Strathavon  from  Mar,  and  in  a  shallow  channel 
intersects  the  valley  called  Strathdon.  After  being  enlarged  by  many 
streams  it  receives  the  Nochty  burn  at  Innernochty,  the  Deskry  a  little 
below,  and  the  Bucket  on  the  opposite  bank,  where  the  Castle  of  Inner- 
bucket  stands.  This  tract  is  rich  in  grass,  and  corn  crops  are  not 
lacking.  Throughout  its  whole  course  this  river  is  not  rapid  like  the 
Dee,  but,  with  generally  placid  waves  and  in  various  meanderings,  waters  a 
great  deal  of  land.  It  is  here  and  there  confined  by  steep  mountain 
defiles.  Not  far  from  its  northern  bank  is  the  Castle  of  Kildrummy,  an 
ancient  stronghold,  the  work,  it  is  believed,  of  the  kings,  but  it  is  not 
placed  in  fertile  soil,  though  the  plains  in  the  vicinity  are  productive. 
That  the  founders  set  about  building  a  town  is  shown  by  the  name  of 
Burrowstoun,  which  signifies  a  town  or  burgh  ;  and  the  castle  is  marked 
by  a  strong  wall  and  numerous  massive  towers,  being  safe  against  force 
in  that  age.  It  is  the  principal  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Mar  in  this  quarter. 
As  we  skirt  the  border  of  the  river,  we  come  to  a  church  and  parish  called 
Fortes,  which  I  did  not  intend  to  mention  were  it  not  that,  as  history 
records,  the  original  founder  of  a  family  very  celebrated  in  these  borders 
had  his  seat  hei-e.  His  descendants  are  very  strong  in  this  locality,  as 
far  as  the  source  of  the  Don,  and  not  only  here,  but  spreading  out  into 
various  branches  in  prolific  descent,  they  have  produced  many  families 
which  in  the  lower  parts  of  the  district  are  held  in  honour  for  their 
wealth  and  birth,  all  tracing  their  origin  to  one  house,  whose  Chiefs, 
though  they  would  yield  to  few  in  antiquity  of  lineage  or  in  number  of 
offshoots,  have,  being  far  removed  from  modern  ambition,  remained  con- 
tent with  the  rank  of  Parliamentary  Barons,  the  dignity  conferred  on 
them  at  the  very  fii-st.  At  this  place  Mar,  crossing  the  mountain  chain, 
appears  to  take  the  parish  of  Clatt  and  the  Castle  of  Drumminor, 
witli  the  estates  of  the  Parliamentary  Baron  of  Forbes,  from  Garrioch 
and  Strathbogie.  But  the  Don,  from  which  I  made  a  digression,  after 
being  obstructed  a  little  by  narrow  passes,  now  free  and  flowing  gently 
through  a  wide  and  fertile  valley  receives  the  river  Leochel,  on  which 
Craigievar  Castle  and  the  parochial  village  of  Alford  are  situated. 
After  traversing  four  miles  it  is  confined  by  the  defiles  of  Bennachie 
with  their  wild  rocks  and  crags,  but  entering  the  level  ground,  discloses 


286  TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN 

a  wide  and  charming'  plain.  Here  is  seen  Monimosk,  a  castle  of  the 
Forbeses,  where  formerly  there  was  a  Priory,  as  they  call  it,  whose  estates 
having  been  appropriated  for  private  uses,  the  house  also  has  disappeared. 
In  a  different  direction,  away  from  the  river  is  seen  Cluny  Castle,  and 
not  far  from  this,  Mulcal,  a  strong  and  well-built  castle,  a  seat  of  the 
Erasers  who  derive  the  titles  of  Parliamentary  Baron  from  it.  As  \ve 
descend  the  river,  Kemnay  and  Fettyrneir  are  reached  on  opposite  banks, 
where  the  stream  is  again  confined  by  narrows,  nor  is  it  freed  until  it 
reaches  Innerurie,  where  Mar  is  contracted,  and  all  the  way  after  that  has 
the  Don  as  its  limit.  Here,  turning  to  the  south,  on  receiving  the  Urie, 
and  with  its  windings  intersecting  the  best  cultivated  plains  in  all  these 
provinces,  first  it  passes  Kintore,  a  village  of  note  on  the  king's  highway, 
near  which  a  castle  of  the  Earl  Marischal,  called  Hall  of  Forest,  stands, 
and  again  bending  its  channel  to  the  east,  it  wanders  slow  and  tortuous 
through  the  wide  and  highly  productive  plains  called  those  of  Fintry, 
no  longer  obstructed  by  mountains,  but  yet  pouring  its  flood  within  high 
banks  not  to  be  compared  with  the  said  plains,  and  mingles  with  the  sea 
several  miles  further  down,  though  owing  to  the  sandy  bed  its  mouth  is 
impassable  for  ships.  Between  the  mouths  of  these  rivers  there  are  three 
miles  more  or  less  of  sandy  shore. 

ABERDEEN. 

Aberdeen  has  two  names,  and  also  two  towns.  It  is  situated  at  the 
mouth  of  either  river,  the  town  that  is  called  New  Aberdeen  on  the 
Dee,  and  the  other,  with  the  name  of  Old  Aberdeen  on  the  Don,  at  an 
interval  of  a  mile  more  or  less.  Here  the  cathedral  church  by  good  luck 
escaped  sacrilegious  hands.  It  was  stripped  of  its  leaden  roof,  a  damage 
that  slates  make  good  in  some  fashion  at  the  present  day.  While  the 
dignity  and  office  of  bishop  flourished,  his  see  was  here,  and  the  land  near 
the  town  belonged  to  him.  Now  everything  is  so  changed  that  the 
bishop's  palace  has  not  been  spared,  and  even  the  stones,  after  its 
destruction,  have  found  no  rest.  A  truly  royal  college  was  built  here  in 
the  year  ]521  by  Bishop  William  Elphinstone,  who  spared  no  expense, 
converting  ample  revenues  and  lands  to  its  use  in  perpetuity.  Hardly, 
however,  surviving  so  great  a  task,  he  made  provision  for  the  masters  and 
their  stipends,  and  for  all  those  whose  services  were  necessary.  An  alms- 
house  for  old  men,  which  he  meditated,  he  entrusted  to  the  executors  of  his 
will,  bequeathing  money,  and  the  work,  through  the  care  of  his  successor, 
was  not  overlooked.  The  river  Don  near  the  sea  is  spanned  by  a  bridge  of 
one  bow  or  arch,  but  that  a  very  great  one,  well  and  strongly  constructed. 
The  builder  is  unknown,  which  is  strange,  considering  that  the  bridge  of 
Dee  gives  similar  information  in  more  than  one  place,  so  different  are  the 
dispositions  of  men.  It  is  unnecessary  to  mention  that  at  the  bridge 
and  a  little  above  it  a  stone  weir  has  been  skilfully  constructed  across 
the  breadth  of  the  river-bed,  to  form  a  fishing  cruive,  from  which  there 
arises  a  noted  and  profitable  trade  in  salmon. 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN  287 

New  Aberdeen,  built  on  three  hills  in  a  pretty  high  position,  is 
approached  from  all  sides  by  an  ascent.  Its  outskirts  spread  into  the 
level  ground  in  many  places,  like  suburbs.  King  Gregory  about  the 
year  890,  attracted  by  the  convenience  of  the  place,  bestowed  on  it 
rights  and  immunities,  and  adorned  it  with  a  palace,  which  was  after- 
wards gifted  to  the  Church  and  dedicated  to  the  use  of  the  Trinitarian 
Friars.  It  is  shown  that  a  mint  stood  there  by  the  existence  of  coins 
struck  in  the  same  place.  I  remember  seeing,  when  a  youth,  some  of 
these  which  were  preserved  by  a  citizen  in  proof  of  the  fact.  But  while 
its  circumstances  were  still  humble,  the  town  was  confined  to  the  suburb 
which  is  called  the  Green ;  afterwards,  when  its  wealth  increased,  it 
extended  to  the  nearest  hills.  It  provided  itself  with  houses,  streets, 
churches,  a  town-house,  and  whatever  else  was  necessary  for  the  require- 
ments of  a  city.  It  elected  magistrates  and  set  up  a  form  of  government 
which  it  meant  to  be  nearest  to  an  aristocracy,  and  conducted  a  trade  by 
sea.  As  the  number  of  the  citizens  was  augmented  by  this,  it  secured 
I  the  distinction  of  becoming  the  seat  of  the  justiciary  of  the  shire,  the 
Sheriff's  court  being  fixed  there.  A  college  was  founded  by  Earl  George 
Keith,  Marischal  of  the  kingdom,  who  bought  and  turned  to  that  use 
the  house  of  the  Franciscans  in  the  year  1593,  but  with  such  slender 
beginnings  that,  had  not  the  generosity  of  pious  men  come  to  its  aid,  it 
would  already  have  failed.  The  harbour  is  distant  a  mile  from  the  city, 
where  the  channel  of  the  river  runs  in  a  straight  line,  and  the  town  is 
a  little  to  the  left,  but  when  the  tide  advances  all  the  space  up  to  the 
quay  is  covered  with  water,  and  so  an  entrance  is  open  for  smaller  ships. 
The  larger  vessels  discharge  their  burdens  at  the  harbour.  Before  the 
present  disorders  in  the  State  the  citizens  endeavoured  to  extend  the 
quay  along  the  whole  sea-side,  and  the  foundations  of  the  work  were 
laid  with  that  object  in  view.  But  they  were  prevented  by  the  outbreak 
of  war,  and  the  work  was  stopped  but  not  dropped.  A  castle  on  a  hill 
which  has  its  name  from  the  building  was  many  years  since  destroyed,  as 
it  was  a  menace  to  freedom.  Not  very  long  ago  an  attempt  was  made 
to  fortify  the  town  for  military  purposes,  but  unsuccessfully,  as  the 
nature  of  the  ground  is  opposed  to  this.  Overagainst  the  town,  and  in 
sight  of  it,  the  famous  salmon  fishery  is  carried  on,  from  which  no  small 
gain  is  derived  by  the  citizens.  Here  the  agrarian  law  of  Lycurgus 
obtains :  the  whole  fishery  is  divided  into  lots  of  which  an  individual 
can  possess  only  one.  If  a  second  lot  falls  to  his  share,  whether  by 
inheritance  or  otherwise,  one  or  the  other  must  be  given  up.  At  the 
second  milestone  the  river  is  crossed  by  a  fine  bridge  of  seven  arches 
strongly  and  durably  built  of  freestone,  the  work  of  Bishop  Gavin 
Dunbar.  Quite  near  the  town  on  the  west,  at  the  base  of  a  low  hill 
which  has  its  name  from  the  Women,  there  flows  a  copious  spring  of  the 
clearest  water,  but  acid  and  of  an  iron  taste.  It  immediately  falls  into 
a  neighbouring  burn.  From  the  test  of  experience  it  is  believed  to  be 
a  cure  for  bowel  complaints,  and  to  possess  qualities  similar  to  those  of 


288  TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN 

the  waters  of  Spa  in  Belgium,  and  on  this  account  both  these  waters  arid 
those  have  a  common  name.  They  are  efficacious  for  the  same  diseases. 
Some  medical  men  of  our  country  have  written  about  these  waters  of 
ours,  and  on  ascertaining  their  virtues  have  committed  their  discoveries 
to  paper.  They  are  certainly  pleasant  to  drink,  and  no  one  experiences 
any  harm  from  the  deepest  draughts ;  but  for  washing  linen  clothes,  or 
brewing  ale,  or  for  cooking  they  are  altogether  useless,  and  appear  to 
have  been  reserved  by  nature  for  medical  uses.  The  Universities  of 
both  towns  have,  besides  philosophical  courses,  professors  of  Theology, 
Law,  Medicine,  and  Mathematics,  so  that  many  of  those  who  have  inclina- 
tion and  ability  for  such  studies  resort  thither.  From  these  seats  of 
learning  numerous  men  of  eminence  and  of  usefulness  to  the  State  have 
gone  forth  ;  of  whom  many  have  spent  and  are  spending  a  not  inglorious 
life  abroad,  but  their  names  I  modestly  spare.  Some  are  sufficiently 
well  known  from  their  writings  ;  others  are  content  to  remain  unnoticed, 
since  they  shrink — and  may  they  continue  to  shrink — from  the  itching 
habit  of  scribbling,  too  common  in  this  age. 


These  remarks  that  follow  I  did  not  transmit  to  the  printer 
at  all,  as  they  are  not  to  the  purpose. 

Many  things  discouraged  me  from  putting  my  hand  to  the  pen  :  old 
age,  which  as  it  weakens  the  body  has  also  such  an  effect  that  vigour  of 
mind  is  usually  shattered  by  it ;  and  the  bad  faith  of  our  nobles  who 
some  few  years  ago  with  fair  promises  to  me  regarding  these  studies  led 
me  to  this.  Though  their  stormy  rule  has  ceased,  still  while  arms  are 
handled  there  cannot  seem  to  be  peace.  Besides,  I  was  hindered  by  the 
interruption  of  correspondence  with  the  printer,  who  lives  at  Amsterdam, 
since  there,  as  in  our  country,  everything  is  in  confusion  and  peace  has 
hardly  been  restored.  Among  us  there  are  contempt  and  indolent  neglect 
of  these  studies.  I  was,  however,  moved  by  ties  of  country,  and  home, 
and  all  that  is  dearest,  since  to  these  districts  I  owe  my  birth.  I  was 
also  induced  by  a  desire  to  encourage  others  who  are  qualified  for  this, 
truly  and  faithfully  to  describe  the  districts  in  which  they  were  born  or 
spend  their  life,  and  not  to  have  anything  in  their  writings  too  extrava- 
gant or  beyond  the  truth,  nor  make  an  elephant  of  a  fly,  a  failing  that 
most  of  us  in  relating  our  affairs  are  subject  to.  The  true,  faithful  and 
full  description  of  our  districts  remains  untouched.  Our  Boece  neglected 
this,  and  turned  aside  to  marvels,  in  most  of  which,  as  the  truth  has  been 
thrown  overboard,  there  is  nothing  marvellous.  And  Buchanan  passes  it 
lightly  by.  Now  I  must  be  pardoned  by  the  nobility  and  gentry  of  these 
shires  if  I  have  not  made  sufficiently  honourable  mention  of  their  lineage, 
their  estates,  and  their  castles.  They  should  understand  that  I  have  been 
restricted  by  limits,  and  ought  not  to  have  dwelt  at  length  on  those 
topics.  My  sole  aim  has  been  to  shake  off  the  lethargy  of  our  country- 


TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— MAR  289 

men  who  are  fitted  for  these  studies.  However  uninteresting  these 
descriptions  may  perhaps  appear  to  readers,  as  containing-  too  little 
history,  still  if  they  know  the  localities,  or  use  the  map,  their  aversion 
will  be  mitigated. 


Another  piece  as  follows  : 

Many  things  discouraged  me  from  putting  my  hand  to  the  pen :  old 
age,  which  as  it  weakens  the  body  has  also  such  an  effect  that  vigour  of 
mind  is  usually  shattered  by  it ;  and  the  bad  faith  of  those  nobles  who 
some  few  years  ago  with  fair  promises  led  me  to  these  studies.  The  printer 
has  as  yet  sent  to  me  nothing  of  what,  induced  by  persistent  requests,  I  had 
caused  to  be  given  to  him  in  a  half-finished  state.  In  our  country  there 
is  indolent  neglect  of  these  studies,  since  peace  is  not  sufficiently  assured. 
I  have,  however,  on  compulsion  granted  this  to  the  entreaties  and 
wishes  of  my  friends,  of  those  especially  who  were  in  a  position  to  bid 
and  even  command  me.  I  was  also  moved  by  a  desire  to  kindle  the  zeal 
of  our  countrymen  who  are  qualified  for  this  undertaking,  so  that  they 
may  truly  and  faithfully  describe  the  districts  in  which  they  were  born, 
or  from  which  they  are  not  far  distant,  and  not  say  anything  too  extra- 
vagant, a  failing  that  most  of  us  in  relating  our  affairs  are  subject  to. 
Many  things  well  worthy  of  being  known  are  as  yet  untouched.  Our 
Boece,  leaving  the  description  of  districts  untouched,  has  turned  aside 
to  marvels,  in  most  of  which,  as  the  truth  has  been  thrown  overboard, 
there  is  nothing  marvellous.  With  Herodotus  he  all  but  ascribes  our 
origin  to  the  gods,  so  that  some  faults  of  his  are  disclosed  in  his  history 
that  have  roused  against  him  many  writers  who  bore  ill-will  to  us.  And 
I  wish  that  Buchanan,  if  I  may  be  permitted  to  say  it  about  so  great  a 
man,  had  kept  what  he  has  written  in  the  first  three  books  of  his  history 
separate,  as  a  sort  of  supplement  to  the  work  itself,  and  had  not  indulged 
in  such  lofty  conceits  that  even  to  foreign  readers  he  appears  to  have 
gone  over  from  the  historian  to  the  partisan,  passing  the  description  of 
the  kingdom  rapidly  and  lightly  by.  I  venture  solemnly  to  declare,  as 
now  an  old  man,  what,  when  a  young  man,  I  gathered  in  conversation  with 
old  men,  that  there  is  little  sincerity  to  be  found  in  our  history  from  the 
death  of  James  v.,  that  is  from  the  year  1542,  so  much  confusion  reigns 
among  us  ;  and  our  affairs,  very  many  of  which  have  been  committed  to 
writing  with  so  little  fidelity,  through  excessive  party  zeal,  must  await 
Truth  the  daughter  of  Time  yet  concealed.  Now  I  must  be  pardoned  by 
our  nobles  if  I  have  not  made  sufficiently  honourable  mention  of  their 
lineage,  their  estates,  and  their  castles.  They  should  understand  that  I 
have  been  restricted  by  the  limits  of  a  summary,  and  ought  not  to  have 
dwelt  at  length  on  those  topics.  My  sole  aim  in  this  description  has  been  to 
shake  off  the  lethargy  of  our  countrymen  who  are  qualified  for  these  studies, 
and  with  this  example — let  me  use  the  word  without  boasting — to  lead 

VOL.  IT.  T 


290  TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

the  way.  However  uninteresting  these  descriptions  may  perhaps  appear 
to  readers,  as  containing  too  little  history,  still,  if  they  know  the  localities, 
or  use  the  map,  their  aversion  will  be  mitigated. 


NOTES   to  the  Map   of  ABERDEENSHIRE  and 
BANFFSHIRE. 

In  this  Map  we  show  that  tract  of  Scotland  which  runs  out  very  far 
to  the  east,  bounded  by  the  rivers  Dee  and  Spey  and  by  the  sea.  It 
comprises  the  two  sheriffdoms  of  Aberdeen  and  Banff  stretching  in  their 
entirety  on  the  other  side  of  the  Grampian  mountains  to  the  north. 
The  country  has  a  sufficiently  healthy  and  mild  climate,  bestowed  by 
the  neighbouring  ocean  and  the  numerous  rivers.  It  suffices  for  its  own 
wants  in  herds  and  crops,  and  largely  supplies  the  necessities  of  others. 
Of  old  the  whole  was  shaggy  with  woods  which  have  now  retreated  to 
pathless  places,  while  their  subsequent  growth  is  hindered  by  pasturage 
and  sowing  ;  consequently  the  people  who  are  some  distance  away  from 
those  woods  make  provision  from  the  neighbouring  Norway  for  building 
and  other  purposes.  There  is  no  need  of  firewood,  for  the  earth  is 
bituminous,  and  divots  and  peats  are  in  abundance,  and  furnish  excellent 
fuel,  not  only  when  they  are  dug  on  the  surface  of  the  ground,  but  at 
a  depth  of  a  fathom  or  two,  almost  always  where  formerly  the  woods 
were  thick,  as  is  shown  by  the  roots  and  large  trunks  which  are  often 
taken  out.  This  country  was  of  old  divided  into  certain  districts,  Mar, 
Buchan,  Garioch,  Formartine,  Boyne,  Enzie,  Strathisla,  and  Strathbogie, 
of  which  at  the  present  day  the  traces  and  names  remain,  but  it  would 
be  difficult  to  determine  the  strict  boundaries  of  all  of  them.  The 
inhabitants  are  the  most  warlike  and  the  most  cultured  of  all  the  Scots 
who  have  their  abodes  beyond  the  Grampian  range.  The  more  notable 
rivers  are  the  Dee,  which  flowing  from  the  low  hills  called  Scairsoch 
along  the  Grampians,  and  often  cleaving  its  way  through  them,  and 
running  in  a  straight  course  to  the  east,  enters  the  sea  at  Aberdeen, 
after  being  joined  by  many  streams  of  less  note,  and  spanned  by  a  great 
bridge  of  excellent  workmanship ;  the  Don,  which  descending  from  the 
mountains  of  Strathdon  pursues  the  same  course  as  the  Dee,  but  with 
many  playful  windings,  and  likewise  mingles  with  the  ocean  two  miles 
from  the  Dee ;  at  its  mouth  it  is  crossed  by  a  wide  bridge  of  one  arch ; 
the  Ythan,  which  with  a  short  course,  rolling  slowly  through  the  plains, 
is  affected  by  the  tide  higher  up  than  any  river  in  these  districts ;  the 
Ugie,  consisting  of  two  streams  named  the  Inner  and  the  Nearer  Ugie, 
which  unite  and  intersect  Buchan,  flowing  into  the  sea  at  Inverugie; 
the  Deveron,  which,  rising  in  the  hills  of  the  small  pastoral  district 
of  Cabrach,  receiving  the  Bogie  at  Strathbogie  and  the  Isla  a  little 
below  on  the  left,  and  flowing  to  the  west-north-west,  ends  at  Banff; 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— BANFF  291 

the  Spey,  which  taking  its  rise  in  the  ridge  of  Badenoch,  flowing-  in  its 
course  towards  the  west-north-west,  and  measuring  the  whole  length  of 
Badenoch,  being  there  enlarged  by  many  rivers,  waters  Strathspey, 
where  receiving  the  Dulnain  and  further  down  on  the  right  the  Avon, 
it  runs  with  a  very  swift  current,  and  forming  the  boundary  of  Moray 
loses  its  waters  below  the  splendid  mansion  of  the  Marquis  of  Huntly 
called  Bog  of  Gicht. 


A  Description  of  the  two  Shires  of  ABERDEEN  and 
BANFF. 

I  begin  a  description  of  the  two  Shires  which  lie  bounded  on  the  south 
by  a  part  of  the  Grampian  mountains  and  by  the  river  Dee  from  its  very 
source,  on  the  west  by  the  course  of  the  noble  and  rapid  river  Spey, 
on  the  north  by  a  part  of  the  great  bay  whose  ancient  name  was  Varar, 
now  the  Moray  Frith,  and  on  the  east  by  the  open  sea ;  and  if  in  this 
description  1  exert  myself  more  than  in  that  of  the  other  districts  of  the 
kingdom,  I  must  be  pardoned,  since  to  this  quarter  I  owe  my  birth,  my 
education,  my  position,  and  all  that  is  dearer  than  these ;  still  I  shall 
have  to  say  nothing  beyond  the  truth  (to  which  in  these  matters  I  have 
paid  court),  on  a  subject  thoroughly  well  known  to  me.  These  localities, 
though  beyond  the  Roman  limits,  were  not  altogether  unknown  to  the 
acute  Alexandrian  geographer,  who  in  rude  fashion,  but  not  far  from 
the  actual  truth,  describes  the  shores  and  the  situation  of  the  lands. 
The  inhabitants  he  calls  Taezali,  and  the  furthest  cape  to  the  east,  now 
Buchan  Ness,  the  Taezalum  Promontorium,  a  name  quite  unknown  to 
our  writers.  Our  countrymen  from  the  first  divided  the  whole  of  this 
tract  into  various  parts  with  distinctive  names.  They  are  Mar,  Lower 
and  Upper  (now  Mar,  Cromar,  Strathdee  and  Braemar)  ;  beyond  that, 
Garrioch,  and  likewise  north  of  these,  Buchan  all  along  the  shore ;  and 
there  are  Boyne,  Enzie  reaching  to  the  Spey,  and  above,  in  the  inland 
parts,  Strathbogie,  Strathisla,  Balvauy,  Strathavon  and  some  others 
which  I  will  mention  in  good  time.  Those  of  them  that  have  strath 
prefixed  derive  their  names  from  the  rivers  that  flow  through  them  ; 
for  that  word  in  the  ancient  language  means  a  district  intersected  by 
a  river ;  but  he  who  traces  the  reason  for  the  names  of  the  rest  will  not 
throw  away  his  labour  in  play.  The  boundaries  of  many  of  them  also 
are  uncertain.  At  the  present  day  the  whole  of  this  dominion  is  divided 
into  two  shires,  which  have  their  names  from  the  towns  where  justice  is 
administered  :  they  are  Aberdeen  and  Banff.  The  climate  is  temperate 
and  healthy,  though  to  those  unaccustomed  to  it,  and  natives  of  a 
warmer  country,  somewhat  cold ;  but  this  is  mended  by  the  great 
abundance  of  fuel,  though  there  is  never  any  use  for  stoves.  The 
winters  are  mild,  which  is  due  in  a  great  measure  to  the  surrounding 


292  TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

ocean.  They  are  rarely  snowy  ;  the  rains  are  more  trying,  and  this  too 
is  due  to  the  sea.  These  features  are  a  wonder  to  foreign  sailors  who 
come  here,  especially  Swedes,  Danes,  Poles,  and  Prussians,  in  whose 
countries  the  land  throughout  the  whole  winter  is  stiff  with  hard  frost, 
and  lies  hidden.  The  inland  districts  rise  into  numerous  mountains, 
which  however  are  pastoral.  The  river  Dee  cuts  the  Grampians,  of 
which  a  portion  left  by  the  river  on  the  north  divides  into  several  ranges, 
and  elevates  the  localities  that  are  more  distant  from  the  sea  into 
mountainous  country.  But  the  lower  grounds  and  those  that  stretch 
along  the  seaside  are  softer,  and  clear  of  mountains. 

Buchan  in  the  whole  of  its  wide  extent,  spreading  entirely  into  plains 
and  hills,  knows  no  mountains.  Nor  in  all  the  kingdom  will  it  be  equalled 
for  low-lying  land  and  immunity  from  mountains.  The  violence  of  the 
winds  is  somewhat  disturbing,  and,  of  these,  the  north  wind  brings  a  cold 
and  often  snowy  air.  The  south  wind  is  variable,  the  west  always  clear, 
but  the  north-west  is  the  worst  of  all  in  violence,  with  cold  and  snow. 
The  dispositions  of  the  inhabitants,  as  regards  the  humbler  class  or  the 
dregs  of  the  population,  incline  as  a  rule  to  the  pursuit  of  agriculture ; 
or  they  devote  themselves  to  the  meaner  trades,  which  they  practise 
with  little  success  ;  some,  however,  rise  from  this  position.  But  those  of 
the  better  class,  or  of  distinguished  birth,  citizens  also  and  dwellers  in 
towns,  are  trained  in  letters  from  their  earliest  years.  These  studies 
they  continue,  and  when  their  ability  and  intellect  have  increased,  a 
foreign  education,  especially  in  France,  a  nation  friendly  to  and  always 
beloved  by  them,  is  to  their  mind.  Trade  is  left  to  citizens  and  towns- 
people. The  better  classes,  greatly  to  their  hurt,  despise  it  as  unsuitable 
to  their  birth,  whence  comes  poverty  or  the  pursuit  of  arms,  which  they 
have  practised  in  many  places  abroad  for  many  years  with  distinction. 
For  being  of  keen  and  fiery  genius,  whether  they  serve  the  Muses  or 
Mars  they  make  no  little  headway ;  those  whose  time  of  life  has  grown 
cool  prefer  ease  at  home  and  a  country  life  in  their  mansion-houses  to 
a  city  life,  so  that  the  towns  are  few,  and  these  are  of  very  little  im- 
portance, with  the  exception  of  Aberdeen  alone,  though  still  the  whole 
country  would  be  thickly  enough  populated,  did  not  inaccessible  or 
pathless  tracts  prevent  this.  But  neither  do  the  townspeople  really 
escape  this  brand  of  idleness,  since  they  do  not  pay  so  much  attention  to 
merchandise  or  trade  as  they  might  easily  do. 

Now,  before  I  proceed  further,  I  have  thought  it  necessary  to  tell  in 
some  prefatory  remarks  how  amid  these  everlasting  dissensions  of  a 
factious  nobility,  and  the  ambition  and  avarice  of  the  clergy,  which  the 
nobles  misused  for  their  own  advantage,  the  Sovereigns  were  allowed  to 
be  safe.  It  will,  then,  be  worth  knowing.  As  James  v.  was  sufficiently 
yielding  (for  I  do  not  speak  of  the  previous  time),  the  reformed  religion 
began  to  strike  root.  The  queen,  the  heiress  to  the  throne,  was  carried 
off  into  France  by  those  who  favoured  the  French,  and  the  regency  of 
the  kingdom  was  handed  over  to  the  Earl  of  Arran,  who  was  the  nearest 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— BANFF  293 

heir  to  the  throne.  He  gave  up  this  office  to  Mary  of  Lorraine,  widow 
of  James  v.  She  opposed  the  Reformation,  and  seeing  the  Reformers 
preparing  for  war,  she  summoned  French  soldiers  and  defended  herself 
against  force.  In  the  meantime  James,  afterwards  Earl  of  Moray,  had 
grown  up,  and  came  forward  as  leader  of  the  Reformers,  summoning  the 
English  to  his  aid  until  the  French  should  be  expelled  from  the  kingdom. 
Then,  on  the  death  of  the  queen  regent,  he  hurried  into  France,  to  see 
what  policy  Queen  Mary,  now  a  widow  through  the  death  of  Francis  n., 
would  adopt.  Should  she  be  more  inclined  to  France  than  to  the 
turbulent  government  of  Scotland,  he  was  prepared  to  seek  the  chief 
place  for  himself.  History  tells  how  she,  on  her  return,  conducted 
herself.  All  his  actions  abundantly  testify  that  he  burned  with  constant 
desire  for  royal  power,  and  had  not  speedy  slaughter  disturbed  his  plans, 
which  were  riot  yet  ready,  beyond  doubt  he  would  have  ventured  every- 
thing in  order  that  a  way  to  the  throne  might  lie  open  for  him.  The 
Earl  of  Athol  before  him  had  laid  a  plot  for  James  i.,  in  the  opinion  of 
those  who  judge  honestly,  with  far  better  reasons,  which  it  would  be  too 
long  to  insert  here  ;  but  the  bastard  Moray's  reason  was  not  calculated  to 
exhibit  to  usurpers  any  model  of  what  is  right.  In  former  ages  no 
one  outside  of  the  royal  family  coveted  the  throne ;  the  power  of  the 
Douglases,  excessive  and  formidable  to  the  kings  as  it  was,  did  not  come 
up  to  this,  nor  that  conspiracy  which  caused  the  death  of  James  m., 
but  through  the  services  of  the  same  men  the  sceptre  was  handed  over 
to  his  son.  The  nobles  came  into  frequent  collision  with  each  other, 
panting  to  decide  who  should  floui'ish  in  the  greatest  favour,  and  thus  a 
pure  line  of  true  and  royal  blood  was  continued  to  our  time. 

Here  perhaps  the  reader  will  wonder  how  amid  such  horrors  of 
factions,  which  were  the  result  of  the  ambition  of  the  nobles,  it  was 
permitted  to  the  king,  young  and  incapable  of  preventing  these  proceed- 
ings, to  be  safe.  The  factious  nobles  came  into  collision  with  each 
other,  whence  arose  all  evils  to  all  who  mixed  themselves  up  with  the 
factions,  but  it  never  occurred  to  any  one  in  these,  or  in  former  times,  to 
make  any  attempt  against  the  kings  or  their  thrones  ;  so  that  the  royal 
house,  being  always  preserved,  has  reached  our  time.  Civil  wars  often 
raged  in  the  royal  family,  and  civil  wars  dethroned  kings.  Sometimes 
the  lawful  kings  were  banished,  and  usurpers  reigned  for  a  time,  but  on 
the  removal  of  these  by  war  or  plots,  everything  came  back  to  the  legiti- 
mate sovereigns. 

But  let  us  now  traverse  the  several  parts.  To  begin  with  Banff :  the 
small  district  of  Strathavon  now  Stradown,  the  ancestral  property  of  the 
Marquises  of  Huntly,  is  situated  on  the  course  of  the  river  Avon,  which 
Timothy  Pont,  who  surveyed  the  whole  of  these  parts,  told  me  is  the 
clearest  and  has  the  purest  water  of  all  the  rivers  in  this  kingdom.  But 
no  proof  of  valuable  soil  can  be  derived  from  that,  for  it  is  very  poor, 
with  scanty  crops,  which  in  some  years  hardly  ripen,  and  therefore  the 
inhabitants  place  their  greatest  hope  in  pasturage,  which  never  dis- 


294  TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

appoints  them.  The  Avon  from  the  ridges  of  the  rugged  and  snowy 
mountain  called  Bin  A  wen,  issuing  from  a  small  loch,  after  a  course  of  a 
few  miles  receives  the  Bulg  burn,  flowing  from  a  loch  of  the  same  name. 
Then  it  struggles  rather  than  flows  through  rocky  and  broken  ground, 
receiving  many  burns  from  all  sides  until  it  receives  the  Livet,  and  this 
stream  and  that  other  one  on  the  right ;  now  increased  in  water,  it  falls 
into  the  Spey,  flowing  northward  in  its  whole  course.  At  its  junction 
with  the  Livet  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  Castle  of  Drimmin,  and  at  a  short 
distance  from  it  .  The  rest  of  the  locality  is  occupied  by 

country  cottages.  Neither  this  district  nor  Balvany,  which  follows,  reaches 
the  Spey,  for  the  tract  of  Strathspey,  which  belongs  to  Morayshire, 
intervenes.  Balvany  has  a  somewhat  kindlier  soil,  but  it  is  all  rough 
with  mountains.  It  is  intersected  by  the  Fiddich  and  some  other  unim- 
portant burns,  and  derives  its  name  from  the  Danes  who  settled  in  this 
locality.  For  bal  means  a  town  or  village,  to  which  is  added  van  for  dan 
by  a  slight  transmutation  of  letters,  a  change  common  in  the  ancient 
language.  In  it  is  Mortullich,  several  centuries  ago  the  chief  seat  of  the 
Bishops  of  Aberdeen,  now  a  parish  church.  Balvany  Castle,  a  noble  and 
beautifully  situated  pile,  is  the  capital  of  the  domain.  But  Achindoun 
Castle  and  the  upper  part  of  the  Fiddich  are  situated  in  wooded  glens, 
and  the  inhabitants  are  hardly  reckoned  in  the  district,  since  they  are 
under  the  Marquises  of  Huntly.  This  river  mingles  with  the  Spey,  and 
is  the  last  of  any  importance  that  augments  its  waters.  For  the  Isla,  a 
river  that  rises  in  the  neighbourhood,  after  a  course  of  some  miles  in 
this  district,  enters  the  tract  to  which  it  gives  its  own  name.  There  are 
here,  besides,  many  country-houses  occupied  by  men  of  the  better  class, 
to  enumerate  which  in  this  compendious  description  we  must  not  linger. 
The  whole  of  this  domain,  down  from  the  time  of  James,  our  second 
king  of  that  name,  that  is  from  the  year  ,  belonged  to  the  Stuart 
Earls  of  Athol.  He  presented  his  uterine  brother  with  it.  This  line 
failing,  the  Parliamentary  Barons  of  Saltoun  claimed  it  by  a  money 
bargain ;  from  them  by  the  same  right  it  passed  to  the  Iimeses.  Now 
the  Earl  of  Rothes  has  it  by  right  of  purchase.  Where  now  the  moun- 
tains begin  to  disappear,  Strath  Isla  extends  to  the  banks  of  that  small 
river,  which  turning  its  course  first  to  the  north,  then  to  the  east,  enters 
the  Deveron  a  little  above  Rothiemay,  afterwards  to  be  mentioned.  This 
district  with  its  fertile  soil  is  rich  in  both  corn  crops  and  grass,  being 
greatly  benefited  by  the  lime  of  which  there  is  here  on  all  sides  an 
immense  supply.  The  inhabitants  are  actively  employed  in  burning  this, 
both  for  their  own  use  and  for  the  convenience  of  their  neighbours  in 
building,  whence  they  make  daily  profit.  They  also  carry  on  a  trade  in 
linen  webs  of  rather  fine  yarn.  Keith,  a  village  with  a  church  011  the 
river-bank  with  its  stated  weekly  market,  owing  to  the  convenience  of 
the  spot,  attracts  the  hill-men  from  the  higher  grounds  to  sell  or  barter 
their  wares.  All  this  district,  which  is  divided  among  various  proprie- 
tors, is  inhabited  by  many  gentlemen  of  lower  rank.  It  is  separated 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— BANFF  295 

from  Strathbogie  by  the  lofty  mountain  Ballach,  and  from  Enzie,  the 
next  district,  by  the  range  of  low  hills  named  from  a  burn  Altmore. 

The  Spey  on  the  west,  the  bay  of  the  sea  called  Varar  (now  the  Moray 
Frith)  on  the  north,  and  Boyne  up  to  the  small  town  of  Cullen  on  the 
east,  form  the  boundaries  of  Enzie,  in  common  speech  Ein  Yee.  Devoted 
entirely  to  corn  crops,  it  never  disappoints  the  husbandman's  hopes,  but 
it  produces  scanty  grass.  This  district  does  not  yield  to  the  neighbouring 
Moray  in  fertility  of  soil ;  it  is  beaten,  however,  in  garden  fruits,  through 
the  fault  of  the  inhabitants  rather  than  the  nature  of  the  soil.  Here  in 
the  absence  of  lime  the  fields  near  the  sea  are  manured  with  seaweed,  of 
which  a  great  quantity  is  thrown  upon  the  beach  by  the  advance  of  the 
tide  twice  a  day.  Servants,  noting  the  hours,  are  in  attendance,  and 
lest  any  of  it  should  be  lost  they  drag  back  the  fugitive  seaweed  at  ebb- 
tide, plunging  into  the  waves  in  the  tempestuous  winter,  even  at  night. 
On  the  river-bank  is  situated  Bog  of  Gicht,  an  elegant  and  spacious 
castle  built  to  a  great  height,  a  mansion  to  which,  whether  as  regards 
pleasure  or  utility,  nothing  is  wanting.  It  is  surrounded  with  charming 
gardens  and  an  extensive  park,  which  is  enclosed  with  a  strong  wall,  and 
divided  also  by  walls  into  four  different  parts  for  the  rearing  of  deer,  of 
which  there  is  abundance  here  of  two  kinds.  The  place  has  its  name 
from  its  somewhat  low-lying  situation  and  shady  wood.  In  former  years 
it  was  splendidly  enlarged  by  the  Marquis  of  Huntly,  the  proprietor  of 
this  place,  as  of  the  whole  district.  Between  this  and  Boyne,  the  adjoin- 
ing district,  once  lay  a  small  wood  adorned  with  tall  oaks  of  immense 
girth  even  when  I  was  a  young  man ;  but  now  the  whole  has  been  cut 
down,  and  the  oak  has  again  grown  up,  mixed  with  pointed-leaved  birch 
and  other  trees. 

Strathbogie  is  a  wide  and  ancient  barony,  now  raised  into  an  earldom 
by  King  James.  It  is  intersected  by  the  Bogie  and  the  Deveron,  and  in 
it  they  unite.  It  has  numerous  burns  and  rivulets,  all  of  which  are  very 
beneficial  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  both  for  harvests  and  for  grasses. 
In  the  olden  time  it  was  divided  into  forty  village  settlements,  which  the 
ancient  language  called  daachs,  to  each  of  which  so  much  land  was 
allotted  as  could  be  tilled  with  four  ploughs  every  year.  Nor  was  that 
a  small  extent  of  ground.  Since  it  is  the  practice  among  us,  when  the 
crops  are  cut  down,  to  work  the  ploughs  during  the  whole  winter  to  the 
mouth  of  March  when  the  sowing  begins,  but  with  no  cessation  till  May 
is  far  advanced,  at  the  present  day,  with  all  the  woods  felled,  and  all  the 
land  from  which  there  is  hope  of  a  crop  turned  to  tillage,  all  the  ploughs 
have  been  more  than  doubled.  Fine  linen  webs  manufactured  here  are 
specially  commended,  so  that  among  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  neighbour- 
ing parts  who  are  not  brought  up  to  this  pursuit,  webs  from  this  district 
have  name  and  fame.  Hence  arises  no  small  profit  to  the  inhabitants, 
who  attend  all  the  summer  fairs  with  them.  Of  oxen,  particularly  those 
fattened  on  grass  for  the  mart,  of  sheep,  and  of  horses  also  for  country 
needs  there  is  the  requisite  abundance,  and  likewise  for  the  supply  of  the 


296  TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

markets.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  are  the  relatives,  and  all  are  the 
dependants  of  the  Marquis  of  Huntly,  now  for  several  centuries  the 
proprietor  of  this  district.  The  Castle  of  Strathbogie,  whence  the  district 
has  its  name,  pleasantly  situated  at  the  junction  of  the  said  rivers,  is  the 
capital  of  the  district.  It  has  extensive  and  delightful  gardens,  and 
before  the  door  the  Deveron  is  crossed  by  a  stone  bridge. 

The  inhabitants  of  all  these  districts  and  localities  that  I  mention  are 
vigorous,  active,  and  industrious,  and  would  make  excellent  soldiers  if 
they  had  practice  and  training.  But  let  me  confess  the  truth,  for  I 
must  not  spare  my  clansmen,  in  peace  and  war  alike,  neglecting  the 
Muses  they  have  always  paid  more  court  to  Mars. 

Additions  to  this  district  are  Rothiemay  and  its  castle  with  the  church 
adjoining  it,  situated  three  miles  below  Strathbogie  on  the  same  river, 
and  formerly  a  part  of  the  same  tract.  It  was  the  ancestral  property  of 
the  Parliamentary  Barons  of  Saltoun,  but  has  now  come  to  the  Gordons. 
At  the  source  of  the  Deveron  lies  a  stretch  of  low-lying  country  among 
mountains.  Another  rivulet  with  the  name  of  the  Black  burn,  which 
one  might  call  the  Melas  (black)  here  joins  the  still  tiny  Deveron,  and 
the  two  by  doubling  the  volume  of  water  form  a  stream  equal  to  an 
ordinary  river.  Cabrach  is  the  name  of  the  locality,  which  is  entirely 
devoted  to  grass  and  pasturage,  here  luxuriating  wonderfully.  During 
the  summer  it  has  numerous  shielings,  but  the  people  as  a  rule  remove 
in  winter. 

The  small  district  of  Boyne  yields  to  none  of  the  rest  in  the  fer- 
tility and  general  character  of  its  soil  where  it  is  on  the  sea-coast, 
but  this  is  not  the  case  with  the  inland  portions.  It  stretches  along  the 
shore  from  Enzie  to  the  mouth  of  the  Deveron.  At  the  entrance  to  the 
district  is  Cullen,  which  is  of  considerable  antiquity.  It  enjoys  the 
rights  of  a  town,  but  as  it  has  no  proper  harbour  it  is  hardly  worthy  of 
the  name  of  a  village.  Its  sole  recommendations  are  its  productive  land 
and  the  mansion  of  the  Earl  of  Finlater,  whose  family  abandoned  the 
Castle  of  Finlater,  built  on  a  rock  in  the  sea,  and  removed  hither, 
attracted  by  the  amenity  of  the  situation.  They  have  extensive  and 
rich  estates  in  the  neighbourhood.  Farther  eastward  on  the  shore,  half- 
way to  Banff,  stands  a  very  beautiful  castle  named  the  Crag  of  Boyne, 
whose  proprietor  bears  the  title  of  the  whole  district.  He  is  a  baron  and 
is  of  ancient  lineage.  The  town  of  Banff,  the  capital  of  this  shire,  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  said  river,  but  is  not  of  great  importance, 
as  the  river  is  harbourless,  and  exposed  to  the  north-west  wind,  so  that 
occasionally  its  channel  is  changed.  There  are  the  remains  of  a  castle. 
The  citizens  are  few,  and  being  unequal  to  trading  by  sea  they  labour  the 
fields  near  the  town.  There  is  also  a  salmon  fishery  of  some  note. 

It  is  followed  by  Buchan,  a  large  and  wide  -  stretching  province 
beginning  at  the  head  of  the  Moray  Frith,  and  reaching  Buchan  Ness 
where  that  Frith  commences ;  on  the  east  it  lies  along  the  sea  to  a 
great  distance.  Inland  its  boundaries  are  uncertain.  Some  think  that 


THANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— BANFF  297 

it  should  be  continued  to  the  river  Don ;  others  make  it  end  at  the 
Ythan,  naming  the  rest  Formartine.  I  know  an  old  barony  of  that 
name,  which  after  being  held  by  various  proprietors  disappeared  with 
the  name.  On  the  route  by  which  one  goes  from  Buchan  Ness  to  Strath- 
bogie,  there  are  certainly  some  places  that  are  assigned  to  no  district,  but 
have  their  names  from  their  own  parish  churches,  such  as  Ochterles  and 
Abirkirdir,  with  Frendraught,  a  castle  of  the  Crichtons.  There  are  also 
some  others.  But  the  whole  of  Buchan  is  occupied  by  plains  or  hills, 
and  it  is  all  dedicated  to  the  plough,  being  rich  in  cattle  and  sheep,  and 
intersected  by  numerous  streams.  The  river  Ugie  comes  from  two 
sources,  and  both  streams  have  the  same  name,  distinguished  by  the 
addition  of  Outer  and  Inner.  After  flowing  ten  miles  they  unite  and 
lose  their  waters  in  the  sea.  But  the  Ythan  has  not  a  long  course,  and 
is  enlarged  by  many  streams  ;  it  is  far  richer  in  water  than  the  Ugie,  and 
likewise  mingles  with  the  sea  below  the  village  of  Newburgh.  Flowing 
through  level  land,  it  meets  the  tide  further  up  than  all  the  rest  of  the 
rivers  in  these  shires,  but  sandy  beaches  injure  the  harbour,  which  is 
entered  only  by  smaller  ships. 

But  to  return  to  the  point  from  which  I  made  a  digression :  seven 
miles  above  Banff,  a  little  way  from  the  Deveron,  on  a  stream  of  its  own 
name,  is  Turriff,  a  pleasant  village  with  a  church.  It  is  very  well  suited 
for  falconry,  and  with  its  open  plains  or  hills  so  thoroughly  adapted  for 
hunting  that  there  is  no  place  in  these  shires,  and  hardly  in  others,  equal 
to  it.  Six  miles  south  of  that  is  seen  on  the  banks  of  the  Ythan  the 
magnificent  and  spacious  mansion  of  the  Earls  of  Dunfermline  called 
Fivie.  The  whole  course  of  the  river  is  occupied  with  the  country- 
houses  and  castles  of  barons  and  gentlemen  of  lower  rank.  On  the  road 
turning  northward  from  the  mouth  of  the  same  river  first  is  situated 
Slains,  consisting  of  the  walls  of  the  ruined  castle  of  the  Earl  of  Errol, 
who  removed  from  thence  on  building  a  mansion  on  the  peninsula  of 
Bowness,  by  the  rocky  shore. 

Peterhead  is  situated  just  at  Buchan  Ness  in  a  place  suitable  for  carry- 
ing on  a  trade  by  sea,  and  convenient  for  a  harbour,  if  industry  were 
shown.  But  the  breakwater  which  once  existed  is  now  almost  in  ruins. 
Nor  is  any  effort  made  to  remedy  this,  but  the  splendid  advantages  of 
the  situation  are  altogether  neglected.  It  once  belonged  to  the  Abbey 
of  Deer  ;  now  it  acknowledges  the  Earl  Marischal  as  its  proprietor. 
Proceeding  two  miles  from  thence  we  come  to  Innerugie  on  the  shore,  a 
large  and  noble  castle,  the  principal  seat  of  a  great  and  ancient  barony, 
and  the  property  of  the  said  earl.  After  Buchan  Ness  is  passed,  and 
twelve  miles  from  the  same,  Fraserburgh  is  seen.  Fifty  years  ago  the 
noble  knight  and  baron  Sir  Alexander  Fraser  founded  the  town,  enlarged 
it  with  liberties  granted  by  the  king,  and  also  at  great  expense  built  a 
stone  sea-wall,  first  in  a  somewhat  unsuitable  place,  and  then  transferring 
the  works  elsewhere,  made  the  harbour,  which  is  now  much  used,  and 
increases  the  prosperity  of  the  town. 


298  TRANSLATION  :   ABERDEEN— BANFF 

Above  that  castle,  in  the  inland  district  on  the  Ugie  are  the  ruins,  or  the 
site  of  the  ruins,  of  the  ancient  and  wealthy  Abbey  of  Deer,  a  name  signifying 
oak  in  the  ancient  language,  as  is  also  remarked  by  Bede,  who  however 
mentions  not  this,  but  another  abbey  of  the  same  name.  This  one  of 
ours  belonged  to  the  Cistercian  Order.  I  have  in  my  house  a  parchment 
charter  stamped  with  the  seal  of  William  Cuming,  Earl  of  Buchan,  from 
which  it  distinctly  appears  that  he  either  founded  the  abbey  or  was 
among  the  first  to  make  a  gift  of  lands  to  it.  It  stood  in  a  sunken 
valley  shaded  by  woods  on  all  sides.  In  my  early  youth  I  saw  the 
church,  the  house,  the  monks'  cells,  pleasant  gardens,  and  other  objects 
almost  intact.  But  now  the  very  stones  have  been  carried  away,  and  the 
plough  is  triumphant.  King  James  presented  George,  Earl  Marischal, 
with  this  abbey,  when  sending  him  to  Denmark  as  a  Commissioner  for 
the  betrothal  of  Queen  Anne.  He  experienced,  however,  more  loss  than 
gain  from  this.  Beyond  the  Ythan  as  far  as  the  Don,  nothing  of  note 
presents  itself  save  the  numerous  castles  and  mansions  of  gentlemen  of 
lower  rank,  many  of  whom  are  called  barons ;  or  where  they  are  not 
found,  the  cottages  of  the  peasantry  occupy  almost  the  whole  countryside. 
Of  idle  land  there  is  very  little  or  none.  Through  a  lapse  of  memory  I 
said  that  there  are  no  mountains  in  this  province  ;  there  is  one — they 
call  it  Mormond — which  is  a  little  higher  than  the  rest  of  the  land,  but 
it  is  not  equal  in  size  to  a  moderate  inland  hill.  But  there  is  an  extra- 
ordinary abundance  of  cattle  and  sheep,  and  the  land  is  as  it  were  com- 
pletely clothed  with  crops,  which  frequently  supply  the  wants  of  others. 
A  trade  is  carried  on  with  those  farther  south,  and  every  year  corn  is 
conveyed  even  to  Leith.  The  inhabitants,  following  the  genius  of  the  soil, 
are  energetic  husbandmen,  but  are  inactive  in  trading  by  sea.  Timber 
for  buildings  is  brought  from  Norway,  and  if  this  source  of  supply 
were  to  fail  they  would  be  in  an  evil  plight ;  so  deadly  hostile  to  forests 
were  our  ancestors  that,  where  all  places  some  centuries  ago  bristled  with 
woods  down  to  the  very  shores,  the  people  now  suffer  from  scarcity. 

Garioch  or  Garviach,  in  common  speech  Gheriach,  is  enclosed  be- 
tween Strathbogie,  Buchan  and  Mar,  nowhere  touching  the  sea.  The 
origin  of  the  name  is  unknown.  In  the  ancient  language  garve  means 
rough,  rocky,  uneven  land,  and  ach  a  plain  or  level  ground.  This  does 
not  correspond  with  the  configuration  of  the  district,  which,  watered  by 
two  rivers  and  many  burns,  is  entirely  situated  in  a  valley.  It  expands 
in  fruitful  hills,  with  a  rich  and  seasonable  harvest  always  responsive  to 
the  husbandman's  prayers.  The  mountain  Bennachie  bounds  it  along- 
its  length  almost  wholly,  on  the  south.  This  mountain  rising  to  seven 
tops  shows  itself  conspicuous  to  those  who  sail  along  the  coast,  for  all 
the  lower  grounds  are  level.  The  river  Urie,  rising  in  a  gentle  ridge  not 
far  from  the  Castle  of  Gartly,  flowing  through  a  barren  valley,  struggling 
amid  the  broken  defiles  of  two  mountains,  and  reaching  the  plains,  cuts  its 
centre  with  its  uneven  and  winding  channel,  and  joins  the  Don  at  the 
little  town  of  Innerurie.  At  the  base  of  Bennachie,  and  measuring  its 


TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— BANFF  299 

length,  the  Gadie  burn  mingles  with  the  same  river  two  miles  above  the 
mouth  of  the  Urie.  Here  there  is  no  lack  of  agreeable  hunting  of  hares; 
there  is  abundance  of  waterfowls,  partridges,  lapwings  and  other  birds, 
but  grass  is  rather  scarce.  One  mile  above  the  village  called  Inche 
there  is  a  hill  rounded  on  every  side,  of  moderate  height,  and  adjacent  to 
no  mountains  in  the  neighbourhood,  all  green  with  rich  grass.  On  its 
very  top  remain  the  ruins  of  a  castle,  the  work  of  King  Gregory  i.,  where 
also  he  died.  I  should  hardly  refer  to  this  were  it  not  that  I  am  re- 
minded by  the  story  of  sheep  feeding  there  that  are  remarkable  for  gilded 
teeth.  I  remember  seeing  some  of  their  gums  marked  with  gilded  teeth. 
Hence  the  story  of  the  common  people,  which  deceived  our  historian  Boece, 
that  this  hill  is  rich  in  veins  of  gold.  But  any  one  who  carefully  examines 
the  place  will  see  that  there  is  not  even  a  suspicion  of  any  metal,  so 
completely  is  the  nature  of  the  ground  opposed  to  this.  It  seems  rather 
to  be  due  to  the  grass,  and  yet  I  am  not  satisfied  with  this  explanation, 
for  while  the  pasture  is  free  to  all,  why  does  the  peculiarity  occur  so 
rarely,  and  only  in  a  few  cases?  Innerurie  lies  where  the  Urie  falls  into 
the  Don,  and  is  a  place  of  some  antiquity,  rejoicing  in  burghal  immuni- 
ties, as  they  call  them,  but  as  it  is  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Aberdeen,  it 
hardly  occupies  the  rank  of  a  moderate  village.  It  is  situated  on  the 
road  leading  from  that  town  to  Elgin  in  Moray,  and  in  former  centuries 
was  all  shaded  by  woods  of  which  not  a  vestige  now  remains ;  it  is  all  open. 
Not  far  from  this,  King  Robert,  the  first  of  that  name,  routed  in  battle 
Comyn,  Earl  of  Buchan,  who  had  rebelled  against  him.  Pursuing  him 
in  his  flight  the  king  devastated  Buchan.  This  happened  about  the  year 
13  .  Afterwards  Alexander  Stuart,  Earl  of  Mar,  in  a  sanguinary  battle 
at  the  village  of  Harlaw  in  the  vicinity,  defeated  Donald  of  the  Isles, 
who  trusted  in  the  might  of  the  Hebrides  and  was  laying  all  the  country 
waste.  Our  annals  tell  that  this  occurred  in  the  year  1411.  The 
greatest  part  of  the  district  was  united  to  the  Earldom  of  Mar,  and  at 
the  present  day  adds  to  the  earl's  titles. 

Mar  (a  name  whose  derivation  none  can  tell)  in  its  lower  part,  nearest 
the  sea,  is  narrowed  by  the  rivers  Dee  and  Don,  but  in  the  upper  parts 
it  extends  beyond  the  one  and  the  other.  It  is  remarkable  for  its 
length,  but  very  unequal  in  its  breadth.  He  who  describes  those  rivers 
and  their  tributary  rivulets  will  have  told  almost  everything  about  it,  so 
much  do  the  inland  parts  abound  in  mountains  and  moors  ;  for  the  Dee, 
cutting  its  way  through  the  Grampians  from  its  source  to  its  mouth, 
where  they  end  in  hills,  and  leaving  no  small  portion  of  them  on  the 
right,  renders  this  province  mountainous  and  in  very  many  places  unfit 
for  cultivation.  But  all  that  it  yields  to  the  sickle  is  of  excellent 
quality,  and  is  cut  down  always  in  seasonable  autumns.  These  moun- 
tains are  fairly  rich  in  herds  of  cattle,  in  flocks  of  fine  sheep,  whose  flesh 
is  of  the  most  agreeable  flavour,  in  horses  for  country  work,  and  in  goats 
on  the  higher  grounds.  In  this,  of  all  the  districts  described  by 
me  the  wool  is  far  the  best.  It  is  praised  for  the  whiteness,  softness 


300  TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

and  fineness  of  the  fibre,  and  is  eagerly  sought  after.  But  these 
advantages  do  not  compensate  for  the  loss  caused  by  a  useless  soil.  The 
air  is  salubrious,  the  inhabitants  are  vigorous,  shrewd,  and  frugal  people. 
The  soil  being  arid  and  not  sufficiently  fruitful  sharpens  their  wits.  The 
Dee  has  its  source  near  the  range  of  low  mountains  called  Scarsach 
which  separate  Upper  Mar,  or  Bra  of  Mar,  from  Badenoch,  at  a  lofty 
mountain  which  they  call  Bini-Vroden.  Receiving  the  Gadi  burn 
it  runs  a  little  to  the  south-east,  but  immediately  bending  again  to 
the  east,  hindered  by  almost  no  windings,  though  confined  by  high 
mountains  on  either  bank,  flowing  swift,  clear  and  free  from  mud,  it 
mingles  with  the  sea  at  New  Aberdeen,  as  it  is  called,  after  passing 
under  a  bridge  when  now  very  near  the  town.  At  Innerey,  so  called 
from  the  Ey  burn,  seven  miles  from  its  source,  it  first  meets  cultivation. 
Then,  augmented  with  the  water  that  many  large  rivers  bring  down  from 
the  mountains,  it  washes  on  the  right  Castletown  (you  might  say  the  city 
of  the  fort),  a  mansion  of  the  Earl  of  Mar,  built  in  the  style  of  a  castle, 
with  the  neighbouring  church.  Then  on  the  right  is  Abirzeldie,  also  a 
castle,  where  the  valley  is  called  Strathdee.  Unless  you  add  Glengairn, 
named  from  the  river  on  which  it  is  situated,  the  rest  of  the  countryside 
is  taken  up  with  country  cottages.  Here  the  crop  is  scanty,  as  the 
valley  of  the  Dee  is  contracted  by  mountains  ;  but  forests  of  tall  firs  are 
not  lacking,  which  would  be  purchased  with  much  gold  in  the  lower 
districts.  One  mile  below  Abirgeldie  is  a  lofty  mountain,  near  the  bank 
of  the  river,  adjoining  no  other,  though  very  many  indeed  come  near  it, 
and  entirely  clothed  on  every  side  with  wood.  Its  summits  and  rocks  are 
occupied  by  a  beautiful  forest  of  immense  evergreen  firs,  and  its  slopes, 
down  to  the  river  and  the  plains,  by  a  wood  of  birches  and  limes  with  tall 
and  thickly-planted  trees,  so  that  one  can  see  nothing  of  the  whole 
mountain  except  the  wood.  Craig-Gewis  is  the  name  of  the  mountain, 
craig  meaning  a  rock  and  gewisfir.  Next  to  this  is  Glen  Muick,  a  small 
valley  deriving  its  name  from  the  river  which  rises  in  a  small  loch  of  the 
same  name,  and,  after  a  few  miles,  mingles  with  the  Dee  on  the  right, 
almost  opposite  the  river  Gairn.  Below  Glenmuick,  on  the  same  bank, 
the  wood  called  Pananich  presents  itself.  Its  timber  is  largely  conveyed 
to  Aberdeen,  but  after  being  prepared  for  the  use  of  the  country-people, 
as  entire  trunks  of  trees  for  buildings  can  neither  be  brought  down  on 
the  rough  and  stony  road  nor  safely  cast  upon  the  very  rapid  river, 
though  there  is  sufficient  water.  The  pleasant  Castle  of  Kean-na-kvll 
follows  on  the  same  bank.  It  was  built  some  few  years  ago  by  the  Marquis 
of  Huntly  at  a  delightful  retreat  shaded  on  all  sides  by  woods,  in  a 
situation  highly  suitable  for  fishing,  fowling,  and  the  hunting  of  stags 
and  does.  Lower  down,  as  we  skirt  the  bank,  the  Taner  burn  enters  the 
Dee.  It  rises  in  the  ridges  of  the  very  high  mountains  that  form  the 
boundary  between  the  province  of  Angus  and  Mar.  Its  banks  are 
crowned  with  an  immense  forest  of  tall  firs,  which  extend  for  many 
miles.  Next  to  it  is  the  parish  called  Birs,  which  runs  from  the  Dee  to 


TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN-  BANFF  301 

the  source  of  the  river  called  the  Feuch,  where  in  former  years  the 
wants  of  the  neighbours  were  abundantly  supplied  by  a  forest  of  birch 
trees.  It  has  now  been  cut  down  through  the  carelessness  of  those 
concerned,  but  is  slowly  growing  up  again,  with  no  injury  to  the  ground, 
which  is  very  suitable  for  this.  Now  Mar  has  as  its  boundary  the  Dee, 
which  separates  it  from  the  neighbouring  province  of  Mearns  ;  nay, 
Mearns,  crossing  the  river  at  that  place,  takes  away  from  it  the  parish  called 
Banchory  Dominick  [Devenick],  where  not  far  from  the  bank  in  a  rocky 
situation  is  Crathes  Castle.  The  Baron  Thomas  Burnet,  proprietor  of  the 
ground,  has  by  care  and  skill  subdued  the  genius  of  the  place,  for  by  plant- 
ing firs  and  other  trees  with  the  hand,  he  has  covered  forbidding  crags, 
laid  out  gardens,  and  clothed  it  with  amenity.  As  we  descend,  next  comes 
Drum  Castle,  distant  a  mile  from  the  river,  in  a  high  and  rugged 
situation,  but  of  remarkably  elegant  aspect  with  its  gardens.  It  has  as 
its  proprietor  the  Baron  Alexander  Irvine,  who  is  of  ancient  and  dis- 
tinguished lineage,  and  Chief  of  his  clan.  Nothing  further  that  could  be 
referred  to  here  is  worth  mentioning  until  the  river  passes  under  the 
bridge.  But  in  the  upper  parts,  beyond  the  mouth  of  the  Gairn,  there 
is  the  tract  called  Cromar,  separated  from  the  whole  neighbourhood  ;  on 
the  west  Morvin,  a  mountain  higher  than  the  rest,  and  the  forest  of 
Kilblene  [Culbleari]  are  its  boundary.  The  district  extends  hardly  more 
than  four  miles  either  in  length  or  in  breadth.  Intersected  by  two 
rivers,  and  spreading  out  in  hills  or  plains,  it  far  surpasses  the  rest  of 
Mar  in  fertility  of  soil,  and  is  altogether  devoted  to  corn,  forming  the 
granary  of  all  the  neighbours.  Everything  here  is  excellent,  everything 
seasonable  ;  and,  what  may  surprise  you,  this  productiveness  does  not 
reach  the  Dee,  which  is  distant  from  the  tract  more  than  a  mile,  with 
moors  and  barren  land  lying  between.  Divided  into  four  parish  churches 
it  acknowledges  various  proprietors.  Next  to  it  is  Aboyne,  which  gives 
his  titles  as  Parliamentary  Baron  to  the  son  of  the  Marquis  of  Huntly. 
Near  it  in  the  next  valley  is  the  loch  called  Achlossin.  At  the  river  is 
situated  Kincardine,  a  village  with  a  church,  on  the  king's  highway,  where 
they  cross  the  mountains.  It  is  eighteen  miles  from  Aberdeen.  Three 
miles  below  it  the  Canny  Burn  is  received  by  the  river  Dee.  The  course  of 
this  burn  is  all  pleasant,  and  all  highly  fertile.  It  abounds  in  pearl-bear- 
ing shells,  and  at  its  mouth  touches  Banchory,  already  mentioned  by  us. 
The  river  Don,  as  it  is  unequal  to  the  Dee  in  size  and  length,  so  sur- 
passes that  river  in  the  productiveness  of  its  lands.  Rising  in  the 
mountain  ridges  that  separate  Strathavon  from  Mar,  it  intersects  in  a 
shallow  channel  the  valley  called  Strathdon,  and  augmented  by  many 
rivulets  receives  the  Nochty  burn  at  the  Church  of  Irmernochty,  the 
Deskry  a  little  below,  and  on  the  opposite  bank  the  Bucket.  This  tract 
is  rich  in  grass,  and  suitable  for  pasturage,  though  corn  crops  are  not 
lacking.  At  the  Bucket  burn  it  struggles  amid  mountain  defiles.  But 
in  its  whole  course  it  is  not  rapid  like  the  Dee  ;  but  watering  a  great 
deal  of  land  with  generally  placid  waves,  it  discloses  fertile  valleys. 


302  TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

While  sometimes  confined  by  mountains,  it  again  gets  wider  in  the  plains. 
Below  the  Bucket,  with  Innerbucket  a  castle  of  the  first  name  on  it, 
stands  on  the  left  bank  Kildrummy  Castle,  an  ancient  pile  believed  to  be 
the  work  of  the  kings.  It  is  strange  that,  with  plains  so  near,  it  was 
placed  in  an  unattractive  situation  overhung  by  barren  mountains.  But 
that  its  founders  set  about  building  a  town  is  shown  by  the  name  Bur- 
roustoun,  which  signifies  a  town  or  burgh.  With  its  strong  wall  and 
numerous  massive  towers,  which  have  passages  from  one  to  another,  it 
was  safe  against  force  in  that  age.  It  is  now  more  commodious  and 
attractive  with  new  buildings,  and  is  the  principal  seat  of  the  Earls  of 
Mar  in  this  locality.  As  we  skirt  the  bank  of  the  Don,  the  Mosett  burn 
flows  into  it,  and,  not  far  from  this,  the  Church  of  Forbes  is  situated  on 
the  bank  of  the  river,  which  I  did  not  intend  to  mention  were  it  not 
that,  as  our  own  annals  tell,  the  original  founder  of  the  family  of  the 
Forbeses,  from  which  I  am  descended  on  my  mother's  side,  here  killed 
a  huge  bear  that  was  devastating  the  country  round  about ;  and  the 
tokens  of  this  exploit  are  borne  on  the  shield  of  their  clan  by  his 
descendants,  who,  spreading  out  into  many  branches,  hold  under  their 
sway  very  many  estates  in  these  borders,  from  the  source  of  this  river, 
and  throughout  many  localities  in  these  shires.  Here  Mar,  crossing  the 
mountains,  seems  to  take  away  from  Garioch  and  Strathbogie  the  parish 
of  Clatt  and  the  castle  of  the  Parliamentary  Baron  of  Forbes  named 
Drymminor.  Now  the  Don,  free  from  the  defiles,  flowing  through  a 
wide  and  fertile  valley,  receiving  the  river  Leochel,  and  passing  Alford, 
is  again  confined  by  the  narrow  passes  of  Bennachie  after  a  distance  of 
four  miles,  and  amid  these,  rugged  with  rocks  and  crags,  it  bends  to  the 
south,  and  reaching  the  level  ground,  it  once  more  flows  in  its  own 
course  eastward.  This  charming  and  fertile  plain  has  Monimosk,  a  castle 
of  the  Forbeses.  There  formerly  stood  a  priory  of  the  same  name, 
whose  estates  being  turned  to  private  uses,  the  house  also  disappeared. 
In  a  different  direction,  away  from  the  river,  is  seen  Cluny  Castle,  and, 
not  far  off,  the  Castle  of  Mulkall,  strong  and  of  excellent  workmanship, 
the  seat  of  the  Parliamentary  Barons  of  Mulkall,  and  below,  but  still 
near  the  river,  on  opposite  banks  are  Kemnay  and  Feltyrneir,  where 
again  the  river  confined  by  narrows  is  not  freed  until  it  passes  Innerurie, 
where  Mar  is  contracted,  and  has  the  river  as  its  boundary.  Here, 
bending  to  the  south,  after  receiving  the  Urie,  and  in  various  meander- 
ings  intersecting  the  best  cultivated  plains  in  all  these  provinces,  first 
passing  Kintore,  a  village  of  note,  near  which  the  Earl  Marischal's 
castle  called  Hall  of  Forrest  is  situated,  the  river  again  turns  eastward. 
Wandering  in  a  tortuous  course  through  the  plains  called  those  of 
Fintray,  with  mountains  no  longer  opposing  it,  while  flowing  through 
high  ground  not  to  be  compared  with  the  plains,  it  mingles  with  the  ocean 
after  several  miles.  Between  the  mouths  of  these  rivers  there  is  a 
distance  of  three  miles  more  or  less  of  sandy  shore. 

Aberdeen,  which  has  two  names,  and  also  consists  of  two  towns,  is  seen 


TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— BANFF  303 

at  the  mouth  of  either  river.  The  town  called  New  Aberdeen  is  situated 
on  the  Dee,  and  Old  Aberdeen  on  the  Don,  with  the  space  of  a  mile 
more  or  less  between  them.  At  the  latter  was  the  cathedral  church 
and  the  see  of  the  bishop  (when  there  was  one).  The  town  and  its  fields 
belonged  to  him.  Now  everything  is  so  changed  that  the  Bishop's 
Palace  has  not  been  spared,  and  after  its  destruction  the  very  stones 
have  not  been  allowed  to  rest.  A  truly  royal  college  was  built  here 
by  Bishop  William  Elphinstone,  who  spared  no  expense:  cut  off  by 
death  and  scarcely  seeing  it  finished,  he  made  provision  for  stipends, 
masters  and  all  those  whose  services  were  necessary.  An  almshouse  for 
old  men  which  he  meditated  he  entrusted  to  his  executors,  bequeathing 
money,  and  they  did  not  neglect  the  work.  The  river  Don,  near  the 
sea,  is  spanned  by  a  bridge  of  one  arch,  but  that  a  very  great  one,  well 
and  strongly  constructed.  The  builder  is  unknown?  which  is  strange, 
considering  that  the  bridge  of  Dee  gives  similar  information  in  more 
than  one  place,  so  different  are  the  dispositions  of  men.  It  is  unneces- 
sary to  refer  to  the  stone  weir,  at  the  bridge  and  a  little  above  it, 
skilfully  constructed  across  the  whole  river  bed,  and  also  to  the  noted 
and  lucrative  salmon  fishery,  as  I  am  hastening  to  another  part  of  my 
subject.  New  Aberdeen,  built  on  three  hills  in  a  pretty  high  position, 
is  approached  from  all  sides  by  an  ascent.  King  Gregory,  about  the 
year  ,  attracted  by  the  convenience  of  the  place,  was  the  first  to 

bestow  rights  and  privileges  on  the  village.  Here  he  had  a  mansion, 
which  was  afterwards  converted  into  the  College  of  the  Trinity  Friars, 
as  they  call  them.  Money  was  coined  here,  of  which,  in  my  youth,  a 
citizen  had  one  or  two  pieces ;  but  while  its  circumstances  were  still 
humble,  the  town  was  confined  to  the  suburb  whose  name  is  now  the 
Green  ;  afterwards,  when  its  wealth  increased,  it  extended  over  the 
nearest  hills.  It  provided  itself  with  houses,  streets,  churches,  a  town- 
house,  and  whatever  else  was  needful  for  the  requirements  of  a  city. 
It  elected  magistrates  and  set  up  a  form  of  government  which  it  meant 
to  be  nearest  to  an  aristocracy,  and  conducted  a  trade  by  sea.  The 
number  of  citizens  thus  increasing,  the  court  for  the  administration  of 
justice  for  the  whole  shire  was  established  here.  A  College  was  founded 
by  George  Keith,  Earl  Marischal,  and  the  house  of  the  Franciscans  was 
turned  to  that  use,  but  with  such  slender  beginnings  that,  had  not  the 
generosity  of  pious  men  come  to  its  aid,  it  would  have  already  failed. 
The  harbour,  to  which  the  river  flows  in  a  straight  channel,  is  distant  a 
mile  from  the  city.  When  the  tide  advances,  all  the  space  as  far  as 
the  quay  is  covered  with  water,  and  so  an  entrance  up  to  the  city  is 
open  for  smaller  ships.  The  larger  vessels  discharge  their  burdens  at 
the  harbour.  Some  few  years  ago  the  citizens  endeavoured  to  extend 
the  quay  along  the  whole  seaside,  and  the  foundations  of  the  work  were 
even  laid,  but  owing  to  our  civil  commotions  the  work  was  stopped  but 
not  dropped.  A  castle  on  a  hill  that  has  its  name  from  it,  occupying 
the  whole  level  top  of  the  height,  is  now  destroyed.  Not  very  long  ago 


304<  TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

an  attempt  was  made  to  fortify  the  city  for  military  purposes,  but  un* 
successfully,  since  the  nature  of  the  ground  is  opposed  to  this  ;  nor  are 
matters  different  throughout  the  whole  kingdom  :  the  fortifications  built 
in  time  of  war  are  neglected  on  the  conclusion  of  peace.  Over  against 
and  in  sight  of  the  town  the  famous  salmon  fishery  is  carried  on. 
There  the  agrarian  law  of  Lycurgus  obtains.  The  fishery  is  divided  into 
lots,  of  which  an  individual  can  possess  only  one.  If  a  second  falls  to 
his  share  whether  by  inheritance  or  in  any  other  way,  one  or  other  of 
the  lots  must  be  given  up.  At  the  second  milestone  the  river  is  crossed 
by  a  fine  bridge  of  seven  arches,  strongly  and  durably  built,  the  work 
of  Bishop  Gavin  Dunbar.  The  Universities  of  the  two  towns  have  each, 
besides  philosophical  courses  common  to  both,  professors  of  Theology, 
Law,  Medicine,  and  Mathematics,  so  that  many  of  those  who  have  inclina- 
tion and  ability  for  such  studies  resort  thither.  From  these  seats  of 
learning  many  men  of  great  erudition  and  of  usefulness  to  the  State 
have  gone  forth,  of  whom  not  a  few  have  spent  and  are  spending  a  life 
of  distinction  abroad,  whose  names  I  modestly  spare.  Some  of  them 
are  sufficiently  well  known  from  their  writings,  others  have  remained 
unnoticed,  since  they  shrank  from  the  itching  habit  of  scribbling,  too 
common  in  this  age.  On  the  west  of  the  town,  at  the  base  of  a  hill 
that  has  its  name  from  the  women,  there  flows  a  copious  spring  of  acid 
and  iron  taste.  It  immediately  falls  into  a  neighbouring  burn.  From 
the  test  of  experience  it  is  believed  to  possess  qualities  like  those  of  the 
waters  of  Spa  in  Belgium,  so  greatly  celebrated.  They  are  efficacious 
for  the  same  diseases.  Some  medical  men  of  our  country  on  ascertain- 
ing their  virtues  have  praised  these  waters  in  writings  published  for  that 
end.  They  are  certainly  pleasant  to  drink,  and  no  one  experiences  any 
harm  from  deep  draughts  of  them  ;  but  for  either  washing  linen  clothes, 
or  brewing  ale  they  are  altogether  useless.  History  shows  that  this 
was  a  royal  seat  before  the  destruction  of  the  Picts.  That  there  was  a 
mint  here  is  proved  by  the  existence  of  silver  coins  struck  in  this  same 
place,  of  which  I  remember  that  some  were  still  preserved  in  the  hands 
of  a  citizen  when  I  was  a  youth.  The  palace  was  afterwards  gifted  to 
the  Church,  and  dedicated  to  the  use  of  the  Trinitarian  Friars. 

There  still  remain  traces  of  paganism.  In  different  localities  en- 
closures of  large  stones  arranged  in  a  circle  are  seen.  One  stone, 
conspicuous  by  its  breadth,  facing  the  south  and  almost  adjoining  the 
enclosure,  seems  to  have  supplied  the  place  of  an  altar.  These  huge 
stones  were  in  many  instances  brought  from  a  distance.  In  various 
places  there  are,  on  hills  or  high  ground,  great  cairns  of  smaller  stones, 
conveyed  hither  by  human  labour,  in  which,  in  times  of  ignorance,  when 
Christianity  was  not  yet  professed,  it  was  customary  to  bury  the  nobles. 
For,  when  the  stones  are  dislodged  and  the  foundations  searched,  the 
remains  of  bodies  are  discovered.  Some  standing  stones  are  found 
adorned  with  rude  sculpture  or  figuring,  but  some  are  plain.  They  are 
doubtless  monuments  of  victories  or  battles  of  which  the  recollection  has 


TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— BANFF  305 

perished.  But  those  whose  history  remains  in  our  annals  may  be  men- 
tioned. When  the  Danes  were  troubling  England,  they  did  not  leave 
even  these  localities  '  beyond  the  sun's  annual  path '  unassailed.  One 
descent  was  made  on  the  coast  of  Buchan,  and  as  they  were  fortifying  a 
position  on  the  rocky  peninsula  called  Bowness,  which  at  the  present 
day  is  adorned  with  the  mansion  of  the  Earl  of  Errol,  our  forces  came 
up,  and  a  battle  was  fought  on  the  sandy  shore,  a  mile  from  the  penin- 
sula. The  Danes,  being  defeated,  fled  within  their  fortifications,  made 
peace  immediately,  and  sailed  away.  The  leaders  of  both  parties  agreed 
by  common  consent  that  a  church  should  be  erected  at  the  battlefield, 
and  dedicated  to  St.  Olaf,  and  this  was  done.  Afterwards,  when  the 
shore  had  been  worn  away  by  the  sea,  a  church  was  built  a  mile  inland, 
and  still  remains,  bearing  like  the  neighbouring  locality  the  name  of 
C'rowdan  at  the  present  day.  Again,  at  the  small  town  of  Cullen,  in 
Boyne,  the  Danes  landed,  and,  while  laying  the  neighbourhood  waste, 
were  opposed  by  our  forces.  The  enemy,  who  were  spread  over  the 
fields,  rallied,  and  engaged  in  battle  some  miles  from  that  town.  The 
Danes  were  beaten  and  driven  out  of  the  district.  But  in  that  fight  we 
lost  King  .  The  fury  of  the  robbers,  however,  did  not  stop 

here.  Many  places  besides,  which  it  is  no  part  of  my  design  to  mention, 
were  attacked  by  them  all  along  the  eastern  coasts  of  the  kingdom.  In 
the  memory  of  our  fathers  also  there  were  four  obstinate  battles,  and 
further,  in  these  recent  troubles  which  exercised  us  so  surprisingly,  there 
were  two  fierce  engagements,  but  would  that  they  were  buried  in 
oblivion,  and  succeeded  by  an  amnesty  ! 

Big  annual  fairs  are  held,  but  as  a  rule,  in  villages  or  inland  places. 
I  will  detail  the  more  famous  of  them.  In  the  end  of  June  people 
assemble  at  a  fair  in  the  open  fields  on  the  road  that  leads  from  Aber- 
deen to  Strathbogie.  This  fair  has  its  name  from  Serf,  a  native  saint. 
The  cause  of  the  crowding  to  it  is  the  convenience  of  the  place,  as  it  is  a 
centre  of  distribution  for  communities  wide  apart.  Next  on  the  first 
of  August  comes  a  fair  at  Turriff,  a  village  in  Buchan,  and  again 
on  St.  Lawrence's  day  at  Rayne  ,  a  small  hamlet  in  Garioch.  This 
is  succeeded  by  the  most  famous  and  most  numerously  attended  of 
them  all  at  Kincarn  [Kincardine],  a  parish  church  in  Mar,  on  the  bank 
of  the  Dee,  by  which  those  who  journey  across  the  Grampians  into 
Moray  or  farther  north  must  pass.  In  the  next  week  a  fair  is  held  at 
Keith  in  Strathisla  on  St.  Rufus'  [Malrubius'J  day.  He  was  likewise 
called  a  native  saint.  A  little  above  Kincarn,  and  also  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Dee,  but  reckoned  in  this  shire,  at  the  end  of  September,  on 
St.  Michael's  day,  there  is  a  large  market,  at  the  parish  church  called 
Birs.  In  the  farthest  border  of  Garioch,  where  it  inclines  to  Strath- 
bogie,  a  market  is  held  which  derives  its  name  from  Regulus,  likewise  a 
native  saint.  This  is  followed  by  the  one  named  after  Covan,  a  saint  of 
the  same  kidney,  and  held  after  the  first  week  of  October.  Then  there 
is  the  fair  of  All  Saints  at  the  parish  church  of  Fordyce  in  Boyne,  on 

VOL.  II.  U 


306  TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN— BANFF 

the  first  of  November.  St.  Martin's  fair  at  Strathbogie  is  held  on  the 
twelfth  of  November.  The  last  one,  closing  the  year,  is  held  on  the 
shortest  day  at  Deer  in  Buchan,  and  is  the  fair  which  derives  its  name 
from  Dunstan  [Durstan],  not  the  great  Englishman,  but  a  saint  of  our  own 
country.  On  these  days  there  is  a  concourse  of  all  sorts  and  conditions  of 
men  and  women.  A  brisk  trade  is  done  in  selling  and  bartering  horses, 
cattle,  and  sheep,  business,  as  a  rule,  being  continued  for  a  few  days. 
Everything  that  is  produced  at  home  and  can  be  exchanged  for  money  is 
exposed  for  sale,  especially  coarse  woollen  webs,  which  are  eagerly  sought 
after  by  city  merchants  for  export ;  and  likewise  very  white  and  fine 
linen  webs  from  Strathbogie  and  Strathisla,  which  in  this  particular  hold 
the  first  place,  are  brought  hither.  Foreign  wares  are  not  lacking,  but 
a  great  supply  from  all  quarters  is  shown  in  the  hope  of  gain.  You  may 
see  nought  to  be  wanting  but  the  class  of  swine.  This  kind  of  animal, 
which  in  foreign  countries  is  considered  a  delicacy  more  than  any  other, 
is  somehow,  unluckily,  neglected  by  our  nation.  Swine  exist,  however, 
but  they  bring  no  price.  Out  of  an  endless  number  of  fairs  of  less 
importance  suffice  it  to  have  mentioned  these.  Now  the  men  with  sour 
faces  and  the  Aristarchuses  of  our  age  must  pardon  me  for  mentioning 
the  saints  so  often,  as  the  subject  of  markets  cannot  be  referred  to  other- 
wise, since  the  common  people  thus  distinguish  and  designate  these  fairs 
with  names  and  dates,  and  it  has  been  absolutely  necessary  for  me  to 
follow  them  in  this,  in  order  to  be  understood. 


307.  MORAVLE  DESCRIPTIO. 

Tractus  hie  Moravian!,  nobilem  Scotiae  septentrionalis 
provinciam  continet,  ad  sestuarium  Varar  Ptolomaeo  dictum, 
porrectam  quod  ad  septentriones  aspicit.  ^Estuarium  autem 
hoc  a  Taizalo  promontorio  hodie  Buquhannes,  totius  regni 
maxime  orientali  promontorio,  longo  tractu  sese  terris  in- 
fundens  ad  72  m.  p.  porrigitur,  Buquhaniam,  Boenam  Ainziam 
et  Moravian!  a  Rossia  Southerlandia  et  Cathenesia  dividens. 
Tractus  igitur  hie  ad  occasum  [?  ortum]  Speam  rapidum  fluvium 
limitem  habet.  Australia  montes  terminant  qui  earn  a  Strath- 
spea  et  Badenocha  dividunt.  Nessus  lacus  et  fluvius  claudit  ad 
Occasum  reliqua  prsedictum  aestuarium  concludit  Regio 

haec  amrena  frugifera  fructifera,  supra  fid  em  climatis  jacet 
enim  inter  57  et  58  grad  latitudinis,  ccelo  adeo  miti  ut  non 
immerito  incolae  glorientur  hanc  provinciam  40  diebus  sereni- 


MORAY  307 

oribus  quotannis  tota  vicinia  illustrari.  optimarum  frugum 
egregia  ubertas,  uncle  frequens  exportatio  et  dives  negotiatio. 
fructuum  hortensium  in  tanta  cceli  ac  soli  bonitate  laudata 
fsecunditas.  Sinus  maris  qui  earn  alluit,  innumera  piscium 
examina  suppeditat,  quae  vili  praetio  venalia  ubiq^  prostant. 
ferinam  vicini  montes  larga  copia  exhibent,  Unde  region i 
nomen,  ex  antiquitate  parum  constat,  Danis  autem  dum 
infestant  nostra  littora,  superioribus  seculis  concupita,  qui 
stragibus  suis  earn  sui  juris  reliquerunt.  Monumenta  ejus  rei 
lapides  erecti  et  praeliorum  picturis  ornati  ad  Foressam  refer- 
untur.  Ecclesiastica  ab  Episcopi  cura  pendent  qui  Elginae 
templum  collegiatum  et  in  vicina  arce  Spynie  dicta  ad  lacum 
ejusdem  nominis  sedem  habet.  Jurisdictio  civilis  penes  Vice- 
comites  qui  tres  in  hoc  comitatu.  Elgina  et  Foressa  unum 
constituunt  forum.  Praefectura  haec  ad  Dumbarorum  familiam 
nobilem  et  antiquam  spectat.  Narniensis  praefectura  vicinae 
regioni  jus  dicit.  Innernessa  autem  praefectura  omnium 
Scotiae  vicecomitatuum  olim  amplissima,  quae  quicquid  hujus 
regni  vel  a  se  ad  septentrionem  vel  occasum  jacebat,  sub  se 
tencbat.  Non  ita  pridem  in  varias  praefecturas  minores  dis-  308. 
secta  est.  Duo  opulenta  Caenobia  provinciam  nobilitant. 
Killos  et  Pluscarden,  quorum  reditus  nunc  privatis  cesserunt. 
Fluminibus,  rivis,  lacubus  variis  amcenis  et  piscosis  irrigatur, 
qui  omnes  defluunt  a  montibus  illis  qui  Badenocham  et  Strath- 
speam  ab  ea  dividunt.  Spea  limpidissimus  ac  rapidissimus 
fluvius  in  extreme  Badenochae  dorso  ortus,  earnc^  mediam 
secans,  multis  auctus  fluminibus,  longo  cursu  in  ortum  aestivum 
decurrens,  Oceano  miscetur  ad  Garmathum  viculum;  supra 
omnia  Scotiae  flumina  salmonum  ferax  nusquam  ponte,  vix 
vado  permeabilis,  a  mediterraneis  tanta  rapiditate  fertur  ut 
vix  aestum  Oceani  ad  dimidium  milliare  sentiat,  unde  importu- 
osus  et  navibus  parum  tutus.  Lossia  brevi  cursu  ac  placido 
Elginam  praeterlapsus,  arenoso  fundo,  fertili  solo  vicino, 
Oceano  itidem  miscetur.  Findornus  ex  dictis  montibus  editus, 
per  Tarnwayam  Comitis  Moraviensis  arcem,  baud  procul 
Foressa  lapsus,  infra  Coenobium  Killos  Oceano  se  miscet. 
piscosus,  et  portu  nobilis.  Narnia  flumen  amcenum  frugiferos 
irrigans  agros,  ad  urbem  ejusdem  nominis  perdit  aquas. 
Nessus  ab  occasu  defluens,  ortum  debet  lacubus  qui  in  medi- 


308  MORAY 

terraneis  magni  et  frequentes.  Harry  lacus  fundit  ejusdem 
nominis  fluvium,  qui  conditur  alio  lacu  Eawich  indigete  ser- 
mone  dicto.  Eawich  autem  aquas  effundit  in  lacum  Nessum 
dictum  qui  24  m.  p.  longitudinis,  duorum  ut  plurimum  latitu- 
dinis,  fluvium  verius  quam  lacum  refert,  nisi  aquarum  quies 
reluctaretur.  Nessus  autem  lacus  omnes  suas  aquas  effundens 
ad  tria  m.  p.  supra  Innernessam  urbem,  fluvium  ejusdem 
nominis  cum  lacu  efficit.  Mirum  est  lacum  hunc  solum  inter 
vicina  flumina,  et  vicinos  lacus,  nullis  frigoribus,  nulla  glacie, 
nullis  nivibus  unquam  congelari.  Sed  neq^  teporem  ullum 
sentias  in  aquis  ipsis,  aut  fluvialibus  aut  lacustribus.  Suspicio 
est  loco  subesse  thermas  easc^  non  modicas  quas  immensa 
aquarum  profunditas  celat.  A  lacu  Eawich  qui  ipse  exiguus, 
lacus  Lochy  abest  ad  mille  passus  tantum,  humilis  soli. 
Lochy  autem  lacus  ipse  12  m.  p.  longitudinis  Abriae  accensus 
309.  efFundit  egregium  fluvium  ejusdem  nominis,  qui  Oceano  occi- 
dentali  in  Abria  miscetur,  tarn  parvo  interstitio  abest, 
quin  tota  Scotia  in  duas  partes  intercurrente  aqua  divi- 
datur.  Quatuor  primariae  urbes  Elgina,  Foressa,  Narnia,  et 
Innernessa.  caetera  tenent  arces  nobilium,  aut  villa?  aut 
yici. 

Elgina  ad  Lossium  fluvium,  mediterranea  potius  quam 
maritima  urbs,  Cathedrali  Ecclesia  superbi  et  magnifici  operis 
ex  albo  sectili  lapide  olim  illustris,  quae  superiori  saeculo  ut 
pleraeq^  aliae  sacrilegas  manus  sensit.  Arcis  ad  occasum  in 
colle  vestigia,  Urbs  haec  beata  solo  et  nullius  rei  ad  vitam 
necessariae  indiga.  Foressa  inde  ad  occasum  octo  millia 
passuum  abest  amoena  potius  quam  civibus  frequens.  Narnia 
ad  ostium  fluvii  ejusdem  nominis;  Innernessa  egregium 
emporium  loco  positum  opportune,  populo  numerosa,  nego- 
tiatione  dives,  quicquid  enim  in  iis  regionibus  nascitur,  hue 
tanquam  ad  mercatum  convehitur ;  ad  occasum  Nessus  ponte 
junctus  urbem  alluit.  Septentrionalia  mare  claudit,  portu 
tuto,  arce  in  colle  ad  fluvium  insignis.  Comitatum  hujus 
provinciae,  Comitis  titulo  tenuit  ad  Roberti  primi,  et  Davidis 
Brussii  tempora,  ejusdem  Roberti  Regis  ex  sorore  nepos,  vir 
fortissimus  Thomas  Randulfus,  quo  sine  liberis  defuncto, 
Comitatus  ille  varias  mutationes  expertus,  variis  familiis 
possessus,  quarum  obscurior  memoria,  nunc  Stuartorum  familiar 


TRANSLATION  :  MORAY  309 

haereditarius,  hodie^  earn  tenet  nobilissimus  et  illustrissimus 
Jacobus  Stuartus;  Antiqua  Comitum  sedes  Tarn  way  arx  ad 
Findornum  fluvium ;  nuperas  aedes  extruxit  Comes  idem, 
nomine  Castri  Stuarti,  baud  procul  Innernessa.  Innesiorum 
familia  in  orientali  provinciae  parte,  antiqua  et  populosa.  Ad 
Foressam  et  viciniam,  Dumbarorum  familia,  de  qua  dixi.  310. 
Occidua  et  montana  Catanesorum  sedes  sunt.  Magis  ad 
Nessum  lacum  in  valle  ad  flumen  Erregig  Baro  Fraserius 
nobilis  et  antiqua?  prosapiae ;  caetera  diversis  sparsim  possessa. 


The  following  is  a  translation  into  English  of 
the  Latin  Description  of  Moray. 

Some  remarks  on  it  are  given  in  the  Intro- 
duction, as  to  the  authorship  and  other  matters. 

A  Description  of  MORAY. 

This  tract  contains  Moray,  a  noble  province  of  northern  Scotland 
lying  on  the  frith  called  by  Ptolemy  Varar,  which  looks  towards  the 
north.  This  frith,  spreading  inland  over  a  wide  space  from  Cape 
Ta3zalum,  now  Buchan  Ness,  by  a  long  way  the  most  easterly  cape  in 
the  whole  kingdom,  extends  for  seventy-two  miles.  This  district,  then, 
has  the  rapid  river  Spey  as  its  limit  on  the  east.  Its  southern  parts  are 
bounded  by  the  mountains  that  separate  it  from  Strathspey  and  Badenoch. 
Loch  Ness  and  the  river  Ness  enclose  it  on  the  west,  and  the  remainder 
is  bounded  by  the  aforesaid  Frith.  This  region  is  pleasant,  and 

fertile  in  crops  and  fruits  beyond  what  might  be  expected  from  its 
geographical  position,  for  it  lies  between  the  57th  and  58th  degrees  of 
latitude,  with  a  climate  so  mild  that  the  inhabitants  justly  boast  that 
this  province  is  brightened  every  year  with  forty  days  of  greater  clear- 
ness than  the  whole  vicinity.  Its  productiveness  in  all  the  best  crops  is 
remarkable,  so  that  it  has  a  large  export  trade  and  rich  traffic.  With 
so  favourable  a  soil  and  climate  its  fertility  in  garden  fruits  is  a  subject 
of  praise.  The  bay  of  the  sea  that  washes  it  supplies  innumerable  shoals 
of  fishes,  which  are  everywhere  exposed  for  sale  at  a  cheap  price.  The 
neighbouring  mountains  yield  venison  in  great  plenty.  Whence  it 


310  TRANSLATION:  MORAY 

derives  its  name  is  not  clear  from  ancient  records ;  but  it  was  coveted  by 
the  Danes  in  former  ages  while  they  were  infesting  our  shores,  and  by 
their  carnage  they  kept  it  under  their  own  sway.  Standing  stones,  orna- 
mented with  pictures  of  battles,  are  pointed  out  at  Forres  in  proof  of 
this.  Its  ecclesiastical  concerns  are  under  the  care  of  the  bishop,  who 
has  a  collegiate  church  at  Elgin,  and  his  seat  at  the  neighbouring  castle 
of  Spynie  on  the  loch  of  the  same  name.  The  civil  jurisdiction  is  in  the 
hands  of  sheriffs,  of  whom  there  are  three  in  this  earldom.  Elgin  and 
Forres  make  one  judicature.  This  shire  is  under  the  Dunbar  family. 
The  shire  of  Nairn  administers  justice  to  the  neighbouring  district. 
Inverness-shire  was  once  the  largest  of  all  the  Sheriffdoms  in  Scotland, 
and  had  under  it  all  of  this  kingdom  that  lay  either  north  or  west  of  it. 
Not  very  long  ago  it  was  divided  into  various  smaller  shires.  The 
province  has  distinction  given  to  it  by  the  two  monasteries  of  Killos  and 
Pluscarden,  whose  revenues  have  now  come  into  the  hands  of  private 
persons.  It  is  watered  by  various  rivers,  rivulets,  and  lochs,  which  abound 
in  fish.  All  these  streams  flow  from  the  mountains  that  separate  Bade- 
noch  and  Strathspey  from  it.  The  very  clear  and  rapid  river  Spey, 
rising  in  the  furthest  ridge  of  Badenoch  and  intersecting  its  centre, 
enlarged  by  many  rivers,  and  flowing  in  a  long  course  to  the  north-east, 
mingles  with  the  sea  at  the  small  village  of  Garmouth.  It  yields  more 
salmon  than  any  other  river  in  Scotland.  Nowhere  crossed  by  a  bridge, 
and  .hardly  even  by  a  ford,  it  rushes  from  the  inland  regions  with  such 
swiftness  that  it  is  affected  by  the  tide  for  scarcely  half  a  mile,  so  that  it 
is  harbourless  and  unsafe  for  ships.  The  Lossie,  which  has  a  slow  and 
smooth  course,  flows  past  Elgin,  and  likewise  mingles  with  the  ocean.  Its 
bed  is  sandy,  and  it  is  surrounded  by  fertile  soil.  The  Findhorn,  issuing 
from  the  said  mountains,  and  flowing  by  Tarnaway,  a  castle  of  the  Earl 
of  Moray,  not  far  from  Forres,  mingles  with  the  sea  below  the  monastery 
of  Killos.  It  abounds  in  fish,  and  is  noteworthy  for  its  harbour.  The 
fair  river  Nairn,  which  waters  fruitful  fields,  loses  its  waters  at  the  town 
of  the  same  name.  The  Ness,  flowing  from  the  west,  owes  its  rise  to  the 
large  and  numerous  lochs  in  the  inland  districts.  Loch  Garry  discharges 
a  river  of  the  same  name,  which  falls  into  another  loch  called  Oich  in  the 
native  language,  and  Loch  Oich  sends  its  waters  into  a  loch  called  Ness, 
which,  with  a  length  of  twenty-four  miles,  and  a  general  breadth  of  two, 
represents  a  river  more  truly  than  a  loch,  were  not  the  calmness  of  its 
waters  opposed  to  this.  Now  Loch  Ness  discharges  its  waters  three 
miles  above  the  town  of  Inverness,  and  gives  rise  to  a  river  of  the  same 
name  as  the  loch.  It  is  surprising  that  this  loch  alone  among  the 
neighbouring  rivers  and  the  neigbouring  lakes  is  never  frozen  with  any 
cold,  ice,  or  snow.  But  you  would  never  feel  any  warmth  in  the  waters 
themselves,  either  those  of  the  loch  or  those  of  the  river.  It  is  sus- 
pected that  there  are  hot  springs  underneath,  and  these  of  no  moderate 
degree  of  heat,  which  are  concealed  by  the  immense  depth  of  the  waters. 
From  Loch  Oich,  which  is  itself  small,  Loch  Lochy  is  only  a  mile 


TRANSLATION:  MORAY  311 

distant,  in  low-lying  ground.  Now  Loch  Lochy,  which  has  a  length  of 
twelve  miles,  and  is  reckoned  to  be  in  Lochaber,  discharges  a  noble  river 
of  the  same  name,  which  mingles  with  the  western  sea  in  Lochaber,  so 
narrowly  does  Scotland  miss  being  divided  into  two  parts  by  water 
running  between  them.  The  four  principal  towns  are  Elgin,  Torres, 
Nairn  and  Inverness.  The  other  parts  of  the  district  are  occupied  by 
noblemen's  castles  or  country-houses,  or  by  villages. 

Elgin,  on  the  river  Lossie,an  inland  rather  than  a  seaside  town,  was  of 
old  noted  for  its  cathedral  church,  of  superbly  magnificent  workmanship 
in  white  freestone,  on  which  as  on  most  others  in  the  last  century 
sacrilegious  hands  were  laid.  On  a  hill  towards  the  west  are  traces  of  a 
castle.  This  town  is  rich  in  soil,  and  is  in  want  of  none  of  the  neces- 
saries of  life.  Forres,  a  pleasant  rather  than  populous  town,  is  eight 
miles  west  of  it.  Nairn  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the  same  name. 
Inverness,  a  fine  trading  station  situated  in  a  convenient  place,  is 
populous  and  rich  in  traffic,  for  all  that  is  produced  in  those  districts 
is  conveyed  hither  as  to  a  market.  The  river  Ness,  which  is  crossed  by 
a  bridge,  washes  the  town  on  the  west.  The  sea  bounds  it  on  the  north, 
and  there  is  a  safe  harbour.  It  is  noted  for  its  castle,  on  a  hill  near  the 
river.  The  earldom  of  this  province  was  held  in  the  times  of  King 
Robert  i.  and  David  Bruce  by  the  gallant  Thomas  Randolph,  nephew 
of  the  same  King  Robert  through  his  sister,  with  the  title  of  earl,  and, 
as  he  died  without  children,  that  earldom,  after  experiencing  many 
changes  and  being  possessed  by  various  families  whose  memory  is  some- 
what obscure,  is  now  the  inheritance  of  the  House  of  Stuart,  and  is  held 
at  the  present  day  by  the  noble  and  distinguished  James  Stuart.  The 
ancient  seat  of  the  earls  was  Tarnaway  Castle  on  the  river  Findhorn.  The 
same  earl  has  built  a  new  mansion  called  Castle  Stuart,  not  far  from 
Inverness.  The  family  of  the  Inneses  resides  in  the  eastern  part  of  the 
province,  and  is  ancient  and  numei'ous  ;  the  family  of  the  Dunbars,  of 
which  I  have  spoken,  in  Forres  and  the  neighbourhood.  The  western 
and  mountainous  parts  are  the  abodes  of  the  Clan  Chattan.  More 
towards  Loch  Ness,  in  the  glen  at  the  river  Errigig,  lives  the  Baron  Fraser, 
who  is  of  noble  and  ancient  lineage.  The  other  parts  are  sparsely 
possessed  by  different  owners. 


PROVINCES  and  COUNTREYS  of  SCOT- 
LAND by  ther  names. 

Cathnes.  Strath  Naverne.  Sutherland,  Ros  under  which 
name  is  conteyned  Assyn,  Coggach  signifying  in  English  the 
fyft  part,  for  it  is  raconed  the  fyft  part  of  Assyn.  then  is 
Ardincanach  which  lyes  betwix  ye  two  firths.  Cromartie  on 


312  PROVINCES  OF  SCOTLAND 

the  north  and  the  firth  of  Murray  on  the  south  and  east. 
Besyd  these  peeces  bearing  names  apart,  Ros  goeth  from  the 
West  sea  to  the  East  sea.  Murray  from  Spey  to  Nesse,  all 
along  the  coast,  it  hath  the  bray  of  Murray  that  taketh  up 
the  high  countrey  of  it.  for  itself  hath  no  great  breadth,  then 
under  it  is  Strath-Earne  upon  the  river  Findorne  and  Stra- 
narne  upon  the  same  river  that  giveth  it  a  name.  Stratherrig 
lying  upon  the  southeast  syd  of  Lochness,  but  the  best  land 
of  it  not  touching  the  loch. 

Ther  be  other  pettie  countreys  south  and  southwest  from 
Ros  as  Knoydert,  Moydert,  Glengarry  and  Ardgaur,  which 
doth  touch  at  Lochabyr. 

Lochabyr  itself.  Badenoch  al  upon  the  draught  of  Spey. 
under  it  upon  the  same  river  followeth  Strathspey.  And  upon 
Avin  River  Strathavin.  lower  upon  the  same  river  the  Lordship 
of  Balvany  and  last  of  all  upon  the  east  brink  thereof  is  Aynie. 

The  Lordship  of  Strathbogie  upon  the  two  rivers  of 
Bogie  and  Doverne  which  do  meet  there.  There  is  also 
Strathyla.  Boyne  reaching  from  Aynie  eastward  to  Doverne. 
.  Buquhan  a  large  playne  countrey  taking  up  from  Doverne 
eastward  to  Buchannes  and  from  that  far  south  to  Ythan. 
Which  sum  extend  furthir  to  Done.  Uthers  do  call  that 
portion,  beneth  the  Garvioch  eastward  from  it  to  the  sea 
betwix  Don  and  Ythan  Formartin  which  is  truelie  the  name 
of  ane  old  baronie  yr.  now  dismembred,  but  no  name  of  a 
province. 

ADNOTATA  EXBED.E  HISTORIA  ECCLE- 
SIASTIC A  GENTIS  ANGLORUM  qua- 
nostras  Antiquitates  tangunt.  Vixit  anno 
735  centum  annos  ante  exactos  Pictos. 

Beda  obiit  nonagerius  Anno  735,  ergo  natus  est 
anno  645. 

LIB.  1.    CAP.  1. 

Imprimis  Britannia  Brittones  solos  incolas  habuit,  a  quibus 
nomen  accepit,  qui  de  tractu  Armoricano,  ut  fertur,  in  Bri- 
tanniam  advecti,  australes  illius  partes  sibi  vendicarunt. 


NOTES  FROM  BEDE  313 

Et  cum  plurimam  insulse  partem  possedissent  Brittones  in- 
cipientes  ab  austro,  contigit  gentem  Pictorum  de  Scythia,  ut 
perhibent,  longis  navibus  non  multis  Oceanum  ingressam  :  cir- 
cumagente  flatu  ventorum,  extra  fines  omnes  Britanniae,  in 
Hyberniam  pervenisse,  ejusc^  septentrionales  oras  intrasse  at<^ 
inventa  ibi  gente  Scotorum,  sibi  quoc^  in  partibus  illis  sedes 
petiisse,  nee  impetrare  potuisse. 

Procedente  autem  tempore,  Britannia  post  Britones  ac  Pictos 
tertiam  Scotorum  nationem  in  Pictorum  parte  recepit,  qui  duce 
lleuda  de  Hybernia  egressi,  vel  amicitia  vel  ferro,  sibimet  inter 
eos  sedes  quas  hactenus  habent,  vindicarant. 

Est  autem  sinus  *  maris  permaximus,  qui  antiquitus  gentem 
Britonum  a  Pictis  secernebat,  qui  ab  occidente  in  terras  longo 
spatio  irrumpit,  ubi  est  civitas  Britonum  munitissima  usc^ 
hodie,  quae  vocatur  Alcluitbf  ad  cujus  partemj  septentrionalem 
Scoti  quos  diximus,  advenientes,  sibi  locum  patriam  fecerunt. 

CAP.  2.  LIB.  1. 

Verum  eadem  Britannia  Romanis  usc^  ad  C.  Jul.  Caesarem  in- 
accessa,  atc^  incognita  fuit  qui,  anno  ab  urbe  condita  593,  ante 
vero  incarnationis  Dominicae  tempus  anno  60  in  Britanniam 
ex  Morinis  navibus  actuariis  et  onerariis  circiter  octuaginta 
trajecit. 

CAP.  3.  LIB.  1. 

Anno  ab  urbe  condita  797  Claudius  Imperator  eandem  in- 
sulam  cum  exercitu  adiit  ibic^  plurimam  Insulae  partem  in 
deditionem  accepit,  Orcadas  etiam  insulas  ultra  Britanniam 
in  Oceano  positas  Romano  adjecit  Imperio,  ac  sexto  quam 
profectus  erat  mense  Romam  rediit. 

Ab  eodem  Claudio  Vespasianus  qui  post  Neronem  imperavit, 
in  Britanniam  missus,  Vectam  Insulam  Romanae  ditioni  subegit. 

Postea   Beda   omnia   Romanorum   gesta   in   Britannia    ad 
Severum  omittit,  quae    clare    ex    Tacito  in  Agricola  et  aliis  313. 
auctoribus  peti  possunt. 

CAP.  5.  LIB.  1. 
Severus  receptam  insulae  partem  a  caeteris  indomitis  gentibus 

*  fretum  Glottiae.  t  Dunbritton.  J  Argathelia. 


314  NOTES  FROM  BEDE 

non   muro   ut   quidam    aestimant,   sed    vallo    distinguendam 
putavit,  a  mari  ad  mare. 

Severus  vallum  extruit  inter  Carleolum  et  Novum  Castrum, 
ut  omnes  consentiunt  et  Beda  postea  refert.  Unde  multum 
Romanam  provinciam  imminuit,  retractis  munitionibus  a  vallo 
Adrian!  inter  Glottam  et  Bodotriam  de  quo  vallo  Beda  saspe 
postea,  quanquam  nusquam  Adriani  meminit.  Valli  ejus 
vestigia  manent;  Adriani  opus  frequentes  lapides  inde  eruti 
testantur. 

CAP.  12.  LIB.  1. 

Britannia  tyrannorum  delectibus  exhausta,  hostibus  primum 
patuit  duabus  gentibus  transmarinis  vehementer  saevis,  Sco- 
torum  a  circio,  Pictorum  ab  aquilone  multos  stupet  gemitc^  per 
annos.  Transmarinas  autem  dicimus  has  gentes,  non  quod 
extra  Britanniam  essent  positae,  sed  quia  a  parte  Brittonum 
erant  remotae,duobuss  inibus  maris  interjacentibus,  quorum  unus 
ab  orientali  mari,  alter  ab  occidentali,  Britanniae  terras  longe 
lateq^  irrumpit,  quamvis  ad  se  invicem  pertingere  [non]  possint. 
Orientalis  habet  in  medio  sui  urbem  Giudi,  occidentalis  supra 
se,  hoc  est  ad  dextram  sui,  habet  urbem  Alcluith,  quod  lingua 
eorum  significat  petram  Cluith,  est  enim  juxta  fluvium  nominis 
illius;  ob  harum  ergo  infestationem  gentium  Brittones  * 
prolatas  illuc  munitiones  a  Theodosio  Theodosi  principis  par- 
ente,  Imperante  Valentiniano,  et  postea  saepe  de  ea  praetentura 
certatum  ut  clare  loquitur  Beda,  at  postremis  temporibus 
languente  imperio,  ea  relicta  ad  Severi  vallum  reditum  est. 
314.  Deinde  eodem  loco  refert  Beda,  ut  Romana  legio,  depulsis 
hostibus,  hortata  sit  Britones  murum  inter  duo  maria  instruere, 
quern  Insulani  struxerunt. 

Fecerunt  autem  eum  inter  duo  freta  vel  sinus,  de  quibus 
diximus  maris  per  millia  passuum  plurima  &c  cujus  operis 
ibidem  facti  id  est  valli  latissimi  et  altissimi  usc^  hodie  certis- 
sima  vestigia  cernere  licet.*  Incipit  autem  duorum  millium 
spatio  a  monasterio  Abercurnig,f  ad  occidentem  in  loco  qui 
sermone  Pictorum  Penevahell  lingua  autem  Anglorum  Pen- 


Vallum  Adriani.  t  Hodie  Abercorn. 


NOTES  FROM  BEDE  315 

veltun  appellatur  et  tendens  contra  occidentem,  terminatur 
juxta  urbem  Alcluith.* 

IBIDEM. 

Turn  Roman!  denunciavere  Britonibus,  non  se  ultra  ob  eorum 
defensionem  tarn  laboriosis  expeditionibus  posse  fatigari,  quin 
etiam  quia  et  hoc  sociis,  quos  derelinquere  cogebantur,  aliquid 
commodi  allaturum  putabant,  murum  a  mari  ad  mare  recto 
tramite  inter  urbes  quae  ibidem  ob  metum  hostium  factae 
fuerant,  ubi  et  Severusf  quondam  vallum  fecerat,  firmo  de 
lapide  locarunt,  quern  videlicet  murum  hactenus  famosum  atq^ 
conspicuum  sumptu  publico  privatoq^  adjuncta  secum  Britan- 
norum  manu,  construebant  octo  pedes  latum  et  duodecim 
altum,  recta  ab  oriente  in  occasum  linea,  ut  usq^  hodie  intuen- 
tibus  clarum  est. 

IBIDEM. 

Quibus  ad  sua  remeantibus,  cognita  Scoti  Pictc^  reditus 
denegatione,  redeunt  confestim  ipsi,  et  solito  conh'dentiores 
facti,J  omnem  aquilonalem  extremamq^  Insulae  partem  pro 
indigenis  ad  murum  usq^  capessunt. 

CAP.  13.  LIB.  1. 

Anno  Dominicae  Incarnationis  423,  Theodosii  Junioris  anno 
3,  Palladius  ad  Scotos  in  Christum  credentes  a  Pontifice 
Romanae  Ecclesioe  Caelestino  primus  mittitur  Episcopus. 

CAP.  14. 

Revertuntur  impudentes  grassatores  Hyberni  §  domum  post  315. 
non  longum  tempus  reversuri,  Picti  in  extrema  Insulae  parte 
tune  primum  et  deinceps  quieverunt. 

CAP.  4.  LIB.  2. 

Deniq^  non  solum  novae,  quae  de  Anglis  collecta  erat,  ecclesiae 
[curam]  gerebat  (Laurentius  Episcopus  Canduariensis)  sed  et 

*  Alcluith  i.e.  Dunbritton,  nam  Cloich  vetere  lingua  petra  est. 
t  Nunc  demum  retrahitur  vallum  ad  vestigia  Valli  Severi. 
|  Hostes  omnia  intra  vallum  Adrian  et  Severi  sibi  vendicant. 
§  Hyberni  hi  videntur  auxiliares  Scotis  fuisseriiam  longe  autea  Scoti 
habuere  sedes  in  Insula,  quanqam  Camdenus  statuat  hoc  eorum  initium. 


316  NOTES  FROM  BEDE 

veterum  Britanniae  incolarum,  necnon  et  Scotorum  qui  Hyber- 
niam  *  Insulam  Britanniae  proximam  incolunt  populis,  pas- 
toralem  impendere  sollicitudinem  curabat.  Inscribitur  ejus 
epistola. 

CAP.  5.  LIB.  2. 

Mevaniaef  Britonum  insulae  inter  Britanniam  et  Hyberniam 
sitse  sunt. 

CAP.  9.  LIB.  2. 

Quarum  (Mevaniarum  scilicet)  J  prior  quae  ad  austrum  est, 
et  situ  amplior  et  frugum  proventu  atq^  ubertate  foelicior  960 
familiarum  mensuram,  secunda  300  et  ultra  spatium  tenet. 

CAP.  19.  LIB.  2. 

Honorio  Pontifice  Romanae  defuncto,  ante  novam  electionem, 
Presbiteri  Romani  misere  epistolam  ad  Episcopos  Scotos  de 
controversia  Paschatis,  cum  Scoti,  Hyberni  et  Britones,  omnes 
quartadecumani  essent,  eorum  nomina  in  eorum  memoriam 
sunt:  Thomianus,  Columbanus,  Chromanus,  Dimanus,  Bathanus 
Episcopi ;  Chromanus,  Hermannus,  Laustranus,  Scellanus, 
Segianus  Presbiteri. 

LIB.  3.  CAP.  3. 

Porro  gentes  Scotorum  quae  in  Australibus  Hyberniae  insulae 
partibus  morabantur  jam  Pascha  quartadecimanum  reliquerant. 

Scoti,  Picti,  Hyberni,  imo  Britones  omnes  quartadecimani. 

316.  IBIDEM. 

Imbuebantur  praeceptoribus  Scotis  parvuli  Anglorum  &c. 
Nam  Monachi  erant  maxime  qui  ad  praedicandum  venerant. 
Monachus  ipse  Episcopus  Aidanus  utpote  de  insula  Hy  desti- 
natus,  cujus  monasterium  in  cunctis  psene  septentrionalium 
Scotorum  et  omnium  Pictorum  Monasteriis  non  parvo  tempore 


*  Quanquam  gens  Scotorum  nomine  immigraverat  jampridem  in  Bri- 
tanniam, mansit  tarn  en  ea  appellatione  numerosa  gens  in  Hybernia  ut 
stepe  testatur  Beda. 

t  Mevaniae  non  sunt  Hebrides  aut  JEbudse  Insulae  Bedae. 

|  Prior  est  Anglesey,  posterior  Mannia. 


NOTES  FROM  BEDE  317 

arcem  tenebat,  regendisc^  eorum  populis  praeerat.  Quae  vide- 
licet Insula  ad  jus  quidem  Britanniae  pertinet,  non  magno  ab 
ea  freto  discreta,  sed  donatione  Pictorum,  qui  illas  Britanniae 
plagas  incolunt,  jamdudum  Monachis  Scotorum  tradita,  eo 
quod  illis  predicantibus  fidem  Christi  perceperunt. 

Hy  exigua  insula  proxima  Mulae  Insulae  ad  occasum  hybernum 
hodie  est  Y-colm-kill.  id  est  Hy  Columbi  cella  vel  ecclesia. 
quomodo  hie  locus  Bedae  sibi  aut  veritati  constet  non  video, 
cum  in  illis  locis  Pictos  aliquid  possedisse  incertum  sit. 

LIB.  3.  CAP.  4. 

Anno  565  Imperante  Justino  minore  venit  de  Hybernia  Pres- 
biter  et  Abbas,*  habitu  et  vita  monachi  insignis  nominis,  nomine 
Columbanus  Britanniam,  praedicaturusseptentrionalibusPictis,f 
qui  a  caeteris  cjus  gentis,  arduis  montium  jugis  separantur. 
Nam  Australes  Picti  multo  ante  tempore,  ut  perhibent,  fidem 
acceperant  praedicante  eis  Ninia  Episcopo  reverendissimo  et 
sanctissimo  viro  de  natione  Britonum,  Romae  edoctus,  cujus 
sedein  Episcopatus,  Sancti  Martini  Episcopi  nomine  et  ecclesiam 
insignem  ubi  ipse  etiam  corpore  una  cum  pluribus  Sanctis 
requiescit  jam  nunc  Anglorum  gens  obtinet.  Qui  locus  ad 
provinciam  Berniciorum  pertinens  vulgo  vocatur  Candida 
Casa,  eo  quod  ibi  Ecclesiam  de  lapide,  insolito  Britonibus 
more,  fecerit. 

IBIDEM.  317. 

Venit  autem  in  Britanniam  Columbanus  regnante  Pictis 
Bridio  filio  Meilochon  rege  potentissimo,  nono  anno  regni  ejus, 
gentemq^  illam  in  fide  erudivit.  Unde  et  prefatam  insulam  Hy, 
accepit,  nec^  enim  magna  est,  sed  quasi  familiarum  quinc^ 
quam  successores  ejus  usq^  hodie  tenent,  ubi  et  ipse  sepultusj 


*  Columbae  adventus  in  Britanniam  de  Hybernia,  erat  autem  ut 
videtur,  Scoto-Hybernus,  de  gente  ilia  Scotorum,  quae  mauserat  in 
Hybernia. 

t  Videntur  Picti  Gallovidiam  aliquando  tenuisse,  aliter  referente 
Boetio,  eamq,  a  Nordanhumbris  Saxonibus  iis  extortam,  nam  Candida 
Casa,  quae  Ptolemeo  etiam  cognita  fuit,  est  nunc  Whyttern  in  Galloway. 

|  Columba  in  Hy  Monasterio  sepultus  reclamante  Camdeno. 


318  NOTES  FROM  BEDE 

est  cum  esset  annorum  77,  post  32  annum  adventus  ejus  in 
Britanniam.  Habere  autem  solet  ipsa  insula  Rectorem  semper 
Abbatem  Presbiterum,  cujus  juri  omnis  provincia,  et  ipsi 
etiam  Episcopi  ordine  insolito  debeant  esse  subject!  juxta 
exemplum  primi  doctoris  illius,  qui  non  Episcopus  sed  Pres- 
biter  exitit  et  monachus. 


IBIDEM. 

Mansere  illi  omnes  Quartadecimani  ad  annum  716,  donee 
Egbertus  Anglus  Sacerdos  eos  aliter  erudiit. 

LIB.  3.  CAP.  24. 

Oswi  Rex  Nordanhumbrorum,  gentem  Pictorum  maxima  ex 
parte,  regno  Anglorum  subjecit  circa  annum  660. 

Anno  660,  id  est  ante  Bedam  natum  25,  Picti  magna  ditionis 
parte  a  Northumbris  Saxonibus  spoliati,  videntur  autem  ex 
multis  Beda3  locis  tenuisse  omnia  ad  Bodotriam  et  Glottam, 
unde  iis  postea  exactis,  mansit  lingua  Saxonica,  cui  hodie 
prisca  lingua  maximam  partem  cessit  totius  regni  nostri. 

LIB.  3.  CAP.  26. 

Cedente  Colmanno  de  Episcopatu  Lindsfarne  et  in  Scotiam 
$18.  redeunte  successit   Eata,  qui   erat  Abbas  in  Monasterio  de 
Mailros.  quod  aiunt  Colmannum   abeuntem  petisse  et  impe- 
trasse  a  Rege  Oswi. 

LIB.  4.  CAP.  3. 

Wilfridus  administrabat  Ecclesiam  Eboracensem  jure  Epis- 
copi, necnon  et  omnium  Nordan-Humbrorum  sed  et  Pictorum 
quousc^  rex  Oswi  imperium  protendere  poterat. 

LIB.  4.  CAP.  26. 

Anno  684  Egfridus  Nordanhumbrorum  Rex  misso  in  Hyber- 
niam  cum  exercitu  duce  Berto,  vastavit  misere  gentem  innoxiam 
et  nationi  Anglorum  semper  amicissimam. 

IBIDEM. 

Anno  proximo  idem  Rex  cum  temere  exercitum  ad  vastan- 
dum  Pictorum  provinciam  duxisset,  multum  prohibentibus 


NOTES  FROM  BEDE  319 

amicis,  maxime  vero  Cudberto  Episcopo  ....  in  insidias  lapsus 
urn  maxima  exercitus  parte  extinctus  est,  et  quidem  amici 
prohibuerunt  ne  hoc  bellum  iniret,  sed  quomodo  anno  praece- 
dente  audire  noluerat  Cudbertum  ne  Scotiam  nil  se  laedentem 
mpugnaret,  datum  est  illi  &c. 

IBIDEM. 

Ex  quo  tempore  spes  coepit  et  virtus  regni  Anglorum  fluere 
ac  retro  sublapsa  referri,  nam  et  Picti  terram  possessionis  suae 
quam  tenuerunt  Angli,  et  Scoti  qui  erant  in  Britannia  et  Bri- 
tonum  quo<k  pars  nonnulla  libertatem  receperunt  quam  et 
liactenus  habent  per  annos  circiter  quadraginta  sex. 

Ubi  inter  plurimos  gentis  Anglorum  vel  interemtos  gladio 
el  servitio  addictos,  vel  de  terra  Pictorum  fuga  lapsos,  etiam 
reverendissimus  vir  Domini  Trumvinus  qui  in  eos  Episcopatum 
acceperat,  recessit  cum  suis  qui  erant  in  Monasterio  Ebber- 
carni,  posito  quidem  in  regione  Anglorum,  sed  in  vicinia  freti 
quod  Anglorum  terras  Pictorumq^  disterminat. 

LIB.  4.  CAP.  27. 

Cudbertus  intravit  primo  Monasterium  Mailros,  quod  in 
ripa  Tuidi  fluminis  positum. 

LIB.  5.  CAP.  23  [22].  319. 

Hyenses  monachi  vel  de  Y  Colmkil  anno  716  suadente 
Egberto  Sacerdote  suscepere  pascha  canonicum,  Coenredo 
regnante  apud  Nordan-Humbros,  20  anno  post  caedem  Osredi 
regis  eorundem.  Coenredo  successit  autem  Osricus  cui  successit 
Ceolulfus  Coenredi  frater. 

Circa  haec  tempora,  id  est  an.  725,  coepit  fluctuare  regnum 
Nordanhumbrorum,  et  non  multo  post  tota  concidit. 

LIB.  5.  CAP.  24. 

At  vero  provincial  Nordan  Humbrorum,  cui  Ceolwlf  prseest, 
quatuor  nunc  prsesulatum  tenent :  Wilfridus  in  Eboracensi 
Ecclesia,  Edilvaldus  in  Lindisfarnensi,  Acca  in  Hagustaldensi, 
Pecthelmus  in  ea  qua  Candida  Casa  vocatur,  quae  nunc  mul- 
tiplicatis  fidelium  plebibus,  in  sedem  Pontificatus  addita, 
ipsum  primum  habet  antistitem.  Haec  circa  an.  730. 


320  NOTES  FROM  BEDE 

IN  APPENDICE  AD  HISTORIAM  BED.E. 

Anno  740  Edilwaldus  Rex  Merciorum  per  impiam  fraudem 
vastabat  partem  Nordan  Humbrorum,  eratq^  rex  eorum  Ead- 
bertus  occupatus  cum  suo  exercitu  contra  Pictos. 

IBIDEM. 

Anno  761  (Engus,  qui  nostris  Hungus  est,  Pictorum  Rex 
obiit,  qui  regni  sui  principium  usq^  ad  finem  facinore  cruento 
tyrannus  perduxit  carnifex,  et  Oswini  occisus  est. 


The  following  is  a  translation  into  English  of 
the  foregoing  Extracts  from  Bede. 

Some  remarks  in  relation  to   these  extracts 
are  given  in  the  Introduction. 


NOTES  touching  our  ANTIQUITIES  from  BEDE'S 
ECCLESIASTICAL  HISTORY  OF  THE  ENGLISH 
NATION.  He  lived  in  the  year  735,  a  hundred  years 
before  the  expulsion  of  the  Picts. 

Bede  died  at  the  age  of  ninety  in  the  year  735 ;  he 
was  therefore  born  in  the  year  645. 

BOOK  1,  CHAP.  1. 

'  At  first  Britain  had  the  Britons  as  its  only  inhabitants,  and  from  them 
it  received  its  name.  They  sailed,  as  it  is  said,  from  the  region  of 
Armorica  into  Britain  and  appropriated  its  southern  parts. 

( And  when  the  Britons  had  gained  possession  of  the  greatest  portion 
of  the  island,  beginning  from  the  south,  it  happened  that  the  nation  of 
the  Picts,  from  Scythia  as  they  tell,  entered  the  ocean  with  no  great 
number  of  ships,  and  as  the  force  of  the  winds  drove  them  round,  they 
reached  Ireland,  landed  on  its  northern  coasts,  and  finding  the  nation 
of  the  Scots  there,  sought  settlements  for  themselves  also  in  those  parts, 
but  could  not  obtain  them. 


TRANSLATION:   NOTES  FROM  BEDE  321 

(:  But  as  time  went  on,  Britain,  after  the  Britons  and  the  Picts,  received 
in  the  Pictish  portion  a  third  nation,  that  of  the  Scots,  who  departing 
from  Ireland  under  the  leadership  of  Reuda  had  secured  for  themselves 
also  either  by  friendship  or  by  the  sword  settlements  among  them, 
which  they  hold  to  this  day." 

' '  Now  there  is  a  very  great  bay  *  of  the  sea  which  of  old  separated  the 
nation  of  the  Britons  from  the  Picts,  and  which  breaks  in  upon  the  lands 
a  long  way,  where  there  is  even  at  the  present  time  a  strongly  fortified 
city  of  the  Britons  that  is  called  Alcluith,t  and  the  Scots,  coming  to  the 
northern  side  |  of  this,  made  the  place  their  country." 

BOOK  1,  CHAP.  2. 

' '  But  this  same  Britain  was  unvisited  by,  and  unknown  to  the  Romans 
down  to  C.  Julius  Ca;sar,  who,  in  the  year  593  from  the  foundation  of  the 
city,  and  the  year  60  before  the  time  of  our  Lord's  incarnation,  crossed 
from  the  Morini  with  about  eighty  swift  sailing  vessels  and  ships  of 
burden." 

BOOK  1,  CHAP.  3. 

"In  the  year  797  from  the  foundation  of  the  city,  the  Emperor 
Claudius  invaded  the  same  island  with  an  army,  and  there  received  the 
greatest  part  of  the  island  into  surrender.  He  also  added  the  Orkney 
Islands,  situated  in  the  ocean  beyond  Britain,  to  the  empire,  and 
returned  to  Rome  in  the  sixth  month  after  he  had  set  out." 

"  Vespasian,  who  was  emperor  after  Nero,  was  sent  also  by  Claudius 
into  Britain  and  brought  the  Isle  of  Wight  under  the  Roman  sway." 

Bede  after  this  omits  all  the  doings  of  the  Romans  in  Britain  down 
to  Severus,  but  these  can  be  clearly  discovered  from  Tacitus  in  his 
Agricola,  and  from  other  writers. 

BOOK  1,  CHAP.  5. 

"  Severus  thought  that  the  annexed  part  of  the  island  should  be 
separated  from  the  remaining  unconquered  tribes,  not  by  a  wall  as  some 
judge,  but  by  a  rampart  from  sea  to  sea." 

Severus  built  a  wall  between  Carlisle  and  Newcastle,  as  all  agree, 
and  as  Bede  mentions  afterwards.  By  this  he  greatly  diminished  the 
Roman  province,  putting  back  the  defences  from  Adrian's  wall  between 
the  Clyde  and  the  Forth,  about  which  wall  Bede  often  speaks  afterwards, 
though  he  nowhere  mentions  Adrian.  Traces  of  that  wall  remain.  That 
it  was  the  work  of  Adrian  numerous  stones  dug  out  from  it  bear  witness. 

BOOK  ],  CHAP  12. 

"  Britain  first  lay  open  to  its  enemies  on  being  drained  by  the  levies 
of  the  rulers.  For  many  years  it  has  been  stupified  and  groaning  under 

*  The  Firth  of  Clyde.  t  Dunbritton.  £  Argyle. 

VOL.  IT.  X 


322  TRANSLATION:  NOTES  FROM  BEDE 

two  exceedingly  savage  nations  dwelling"  beyond  the  sea,  that  of  the 
Scots  from  the  north-west,  and  the  nation  of  the  Picts  from  the  north. 
Now  we  speak  of  these  nations  as  dwelling  beyond  the  sea,  not  because 
they  had  been  situated  outside  of  Britain,  but  because  they  had  lived 
remote  from  the  part  of  the  Britons,  with  two  bays  of  the  sea  lying 
between,  one  of  which  breaks  in  upon  the  lands  of  Britain  from  the 
western  sea,  and  the  other  from  the  eastern,  far  and  wide,  though  they 
cannot  reach  one  another.  The  eastern  bay  has  in  its  centre  the  city 
of  Giudi,  and  the  western  has  above  it,  that  is  on  its  right,  the  city  of 
Alcluith  which  in  their  language  means  the  rock  of  Cluith,  for  it  is  near 
the  river  of  that  name  ;  owing,  therefore,  to  the  hostility  of  these  nations 
the  Britons.  .  .  ."  the  fortifications  were  brought  forward  to  that  place 
by  Theodosius,  father  of  the  Emperor  Theodosius,  in  the  reign  of 
Valentinian,  and  afterwards  there  were  disputes  about  that  line  of 
defence,  as  Bede  distinctly  says,  but  in  the  latest  times,  at  the  decline 
of  the  Empire,  it  was  abandoned,  and  a  return  was  made  to  the  wall  of 
Severus. 

Then,  at  the  same  place,  Bede  tells  how  the  Roman  legion,  on 
driving  the  enemy  back,  advised  the  Britains  to  construct  a  wall  be- 
tween the  two  seas,  which  the  islanders  built. 

"Now  they  made  it  between  the  two  friths  or  bays  of  the  sea,  of 
which  we  have  spoken,  for  very  many  miles,  etc.,  and  at  the  present  day 
one  may  see  the  remains  of  this  work  made  in  the  same  place,  that  is, 
of  a  very  broad  and  high  rampart.*  It  begins  at  a  distance  of  two  miles 
from  the  monastery  of  Abercurnigt  to  the  west,  at  the  place  which 
in  the  language  of  the  Picts  is  called  Penevahell,  but  in  the  tongue  of 
the  English  Penveltun,  and  stretching  to  the  west  ends  near  the  city  of 
Alcluith.  "$ 

AT   THE  SAME  PLACE. 

"  Then  the  Romans  informed  the  Britons  that  they  could  no  longer 
be  troubled  with  such  toilsome  expeditions  for  their  defence,  and  further, 
because  they  also  thought  that  this  would  bring  some  advantage  to  the 
allies  whom  they  were  obliged  to  forsake,  they  placed  a  strong  stone  wall 
from  sea  to  sea  in  a  straight  course  between  the  cities,  which  had  been 
built  in  the  same  district  owing  to  fear  of  the  enemy,  where  also  Severus  § 
had  formerly  made  his  rampart,  and  this  wall  to  wit,  celebrated  and 
conspicuous  to  this  day,  aided  by  a  band  of  Britons,  they  constructed  at 
the  public  and  at  private  expense,  making  it  eight  feet  broad  and  twelve 
high,  in  a  straight  line  from  east  to  west,  as  is  plain  to  view  even  at  the 
present  day." 

*  Adrian's  wall.  f  Now  Abercorn. 

J  Alcluith  :  that  is,  Dunbritton,  for  Cloich  is  in  the  ancient  language  a  rock. 

§  Now  at  length  the  wall  is  withdrawn  to  the  remains  of  Severus's  wall. 


TRANSLATION:  NOTES  FROM  BEDE  323 

AT  THE  SAME  PLACE. 

"  And  on  their  going  back  to  their  own  country,  when  their  refusal  to 
return  was  learned  by  the  Picts,  these  immediately  came  back,  arid 
becoming  bolder,  they  seized  all  the  northern  and  remotest  part  of  the 
island  instead  of  the  original  inhabitants." 

CHAP.  13,  BOOK  1. 

1 '  In  the  year  of  our  Lord's  incarnation  423,  and  the  third  year  of  the 
younger  Theodosius,  Palladius  is  sent  to  the  Scots  believing  in  Christ 
by  Celestine,  Pontiff  of  the  Roman  church,  as  their  first  bishop." 

CHAP.  14. 

e<  The  shameless  Irish*  robbers  return  home,  to  come  back  in  no  long 
time,  and  the  Picts  in  the  farthest  part  of  the  island  then  for  the  first 
time,  and  thereafter,  were  quiet." 

CHAP.  4,  BOOK  2. 

"  Lastly  [Laurence,  Bishop  of  Canterbury]  not  only  took  charge  of  the 
new  church  that  had  been  gathered  from  the  English,  but  also  was  at 
pains  to  bestow  pastoral  care  on  the  communities  of  the  ancient 
inhabitants  of  Britain,  and  also  of  the  Scots  who  dwell  in  lreland,t  an 
island  close  to  Britain."  His  letter  is  inserted. 

CHAP.  5,  BOOK  2. 

"  The  Mevaniae,!  islands  of  the  Britons,  are  situated  between  Britain 
;and  Ireland." 

CHAP.  9,  BOOK  2. 

"  Of  these  [that  is,  of  the  Mevanise]§  the  first,  which  is  towards  the  south, 
is  both  larger  in  extent  and  more  fortunate  in  the  production  of  crops 
.and  in  fertility.  It  is  of  a  size  to  contain  960  families,  and  the  second 
has  room  for  300  and  more." 

CHAP.  19,  BOOK  2. 

"  After  the  death  of  Honorius  the  Roman  Pontiff,  and  before  the  new 
election,  the  Roman  presbyters  sent  a  letter  to  the  Scottish  bishops 
about  the  Easter  controversy,  since  the  Scots,  the  Irish,  and  the  Britons 
were  quartadecimans ;  and  their  names  in  memory  of  them  are : 
Thomianus,  Columbanus,  Chromanus,  Dimanus,  and  Bathanus,  bishops, 

*  These  Irish  seem  to  have  been  auxiliaries  to  the  Scots,  for  the  Scots  had 
settlements  in  the  island  long  before  that,  though  Camden  fixes  this  as  their 
beginning. 

t  Though  a  tribe  named  the  Scots  had  come  into  Britain  long  before,  still  there 
remained  in  Ireland  a  numerous  tribe  with  that  designation,  as  Bede  often 
shows. 

£  The  Mevaniae  are  not  the  Hebrides  or  Ebudae  Insulce  of  Bede. 

§  The  first  is  Anglesey,  the  second  is  Man. 


324  TRANSLATION:    NOTES  FROM  BEDE 

and   Chromanus,    Hermannus,    Laustranus,    Scellanus,   and   Segianus, 
presbyters." 

CHAP.  3,  BOOK  3. 

e<  Further,  the  tribes  of  Scots  which  remained  in  the  southern  parts  of 
the  island  of  Ireland  had  now  abandoned  the  quartadeciman  Easter." 

"The  Scots,  Picts,  Irish,  and  all  the  Britons  are  quartadecimans." 

AT  THE  SAME  PLACE. 

"The  children  of  the  English,  etc.,  were  educated  by  Scottish  teachers, 
for  the  persons  who  had  come  to  preach  were  mostly  monks.  Bishop 
Aidan  was  himself  a  monk,  as  elected  from  the  island  of  Hy,  whose 
monastery  among  the  whole  of  the  northern  monasteries  of  the  Scots 
and  of  all  the  Picts,  held  the  chief  position  for  no  little  time^  and  was 
over  the  government  of  their  communities.  This  island,  then,  belongs 
to  the  jurisdiction  of  Britain,  being  separated  from  it  by  a  small  strait, 
but  it  was  a  long  time  ago  given  as  a  present  by  the  Picts,  who  inhabit 
those  districts  of  Britain,  to  the  monks  of  the  Scots,  because  through  the 
preaching  of  those  monks  they  had  received  the  faith  of  Christ." 

The  small  island  of  Hy,  close  to  the  Isle  of  Mull  on  the  south-west,  is 
now  Y-colm-kill,  that  is,  Hy,  the  cell  or  church  of  Columba,  but  how 
this  passage  of  Bede  is  consistent  with  himself  or  with  the  truth  I  do  not 
see,  since  it  is  not  certain  that  the  Picts  had  any  possessions  in 
those  places. 

BOOK  3,  CHAP.  4. 

' '  In  the  year  565,  in  the  reign  of  Justin  the  Younger,  there  came 
from  Ireland  to  Britain  a  presbyter  and  abbot  *  in  the  garb  and  manner 
of  life  of  a  monk  of  noble  name,  called  Columba,  to  preach  to  the 
northern  Picts,t  who  are  separated  from  the  rest  of  that  nation  by  lofty 
mountain  ridges.  For  the  southern  Picts  a  long  time  before,  as  they 
tell,  had  received  the  faith  when  it  was  preached  to  them  by  Ninian,  a 
most  reverend  bishop  and  most  holy  man  of  the  nation  of  the  Britons, 
instructed  at  Rome,  whose  episcopal  see  with  the  name  of  St.  Martin  the 
Bishop,  and  the  notable  church  where  he  himself  rests  in  the  body  along 
with  more  saints,  are  now  held  by  the  nation  of  the  English.  This  place, 
belonging  to  the  province  of  the  Bernicians,  is  commonly  called  the 
White  Hut,  because  there  he  built  a  church  of  stone,  a  style  unusual 
among  the  Britons." 


*  Columba's  arrival  in  Britain  from  Ireland.  He  was,  as  it  seems,  Scoto- 
Irish,  and  belonged  to  that  tribe  of  Scots  which  had  remained  in  Ireland. 

t  The  Picts  appear  to  have  held  Galloway  at  one  time,  tho.ugh  Boece  says 
otherwise,  and  to  have  wrested  it  from  those  Northumbrian  Saxons,  for  Candida 
Casa,  which  was  even  known  to  Ptolemy,  is  now  Whyttern  in  Galloway. 


TRANSLATION:    NOTES  FROM  BEDE  325 

AT  THE  SAME  PLACE. 

"  Now  Columba  came  into  Britain  when  the  powerful  king  Brude,  son 
of  Meilochon,  was  ruling  over  the  Picts,  in  the  ninth  year  of  his  reign, 
and  he  instructed  that  nation  in  the  faith.  For  this  reason  he  also  received 
the  aforesaid  island  of  Hy,  for  it  is  not  large,  but,  as  it  were,  capable  of 
containing  five  families,  and  his  successors  hold  it  even  to  this  day  ; 
where  also  he  was  buried  *  at  the  age  of  seventy-seven,  thirty-two  years 
after  his  arrival  in  Britain.  The  island  itself  is  wont  always  to  have  as 
its  ruler  an  abbot-presbyter,  to  whose  jurisdiction  the  whole  province, 
and  the  bishops  themselves,  contrary  to  the  usual  custom,  are  bound  to 
be  subject,  according  to  the  example  of  that  first  teacher,  who  was  not  a 
bishop  but  a  presbyter  and  monk." 

Ax   THE  SAME  PLACE. 

"All  those  remained  quartadecimans  to  the  year  716,  until  Egbert,  an 
English  priest,  taught  them  otherwise." 

CHAP.  24,  BOOK  3. 

"Oswy,  king  of  the  Northumbrians,  subjected  the  nation  of  the  Picts 
for  the  most  part  to  the  kingdom  of  the  English  about  the  year  660." 

In  the  year  660,  that  is,  twenty-five  years  before  the  birth  of  Bede, 
the  Picts  were  stripped  of  a  great  part  of  their  possessions  by  the 
Northumbrian  Saxons.  They  appear  from  many  passages  of  Bede  to 
have  held  all  the  country  to  the  Forth  and  the  Clyde,  where,  after  they 
were  subsequently  driven  out  of  it,  the  Saxon  language  remained,  to  which 
now  the  ancient  language  has  given  way  in  the  greatest  portion  of  our 
whole  kingdom. 

CHAP.  26,  BOOK  3. 

"  Colman,  on  retiring  from  the  bishopric  of  Lindisfarne,  and  returning 
to  Scotland,  was  succeeded  by  Eata,  who  was  abbot  in  the  monastery  of 
Mailros.  This,  they  say,  Colman  at  his  departure  begged  and  obtained 
from  King  Oswy." 

CHAP.  3,  BOOK  4. 

"Wilfrid  with  the  rights  of  a  bishop  ruled  the  church  of  York,  and  also 
those  of  all  the  Northumbrians  and  of  the  Picts,  as  far  as  the  power  of 
Oswy  could  extend." 

CHAP.  26,  BOOK  4. 

"In  the  year  684  Egfrid,  king  of  the  Northumbrians,  sending  his 
general,  Bert,  into  Ireland,  with  an  army,  miserably  devastated  an 
innocent  nation  which  had  always  been  most  friendly  to  the  English 
people." 


Columba  was  buried  in  the  Monastery  of  Hy,  notwithstanding  Camden's 


326  TRANSLATION:  NOTES  FROM  BEDE 

AT  THK  SAME  PLACE. 

te Next  year  the  same  king,  having  rashly  led  his  army  to  devastate 
the  province  of  the  Picts,  though  his  friends  tried  much  to  prevent  him, 
and  especially  Bishop  Cudbert  .  .  .  falling  into  an  ambush  was  killed 
with  the  greatest  part  of  his  army  ;  and  indeed  his  friends  forbade  his 
entering  on  this  war,  but  as  in  the  previous  year  he  had  refused  to  listen 
to  Cudbert,  and  to  refrain  from  attacking  Scotia  [Ireland],  which  was 
doing  him  no  harm,  it  was  given  to  him,  etc." 

AT  THE  SA3IK  PLACE. 

' '  From  this  time  the  hope  and  strength  of  the  kingdom  of  the  English 
began  to  fail,  and,  slipping  back,  to  ebb  away,  for  both  the  Picts  regained 
possession  of  the  land  which  the  English  held,  and  the  Scots  who  were 
in  Britain,  and  also  some  part  of  the  Britons  likewise,  recovered  their 
freedom,  which  they  still  have,  now  for  about  forty-seven  years." 

"Then,  among  very  many  men  of  the  English  nation,  whether  cut  off 
by  the  sword  or  escaping  by  flight  from  the  land  of  the  Picts,  the  most 
reverend  man  of  God,  Trumwine,  who  had  received  episcopal  charge 
over  them,  withdrew  with  his  company  who  were  in  the  monastery  of 
Ebbercarni,  situated  in  the  territory  of  the  English,  but  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  frith  which  separates  the  lands  of  the  English  and  the 
Picts." 

CHAP.  27,  BOOK  4. 

"Cudbert  first  entered  the  monastery  of  Mailros,  which  is  situated  on 
the  bank  of  the  river  Tweed." 

CHAP.  23,  BOOK  5. 

"The  monks  of  Hy  or  Y  Colmkil  in  the  year  716,  through  the  per- 
suasion of  the  priest  Egbert,  adopted  the  canonical  Easter  when  Crenred 
reigned  over  the  Northumbrians,  in  the  twentieth  year  after  the 
slaughter  of  Oswed  king  of  the  same  people.  Now  Coenred  was 
succeeded  by  Osric,  who  was  succeeded  by  Ceolulf,  brother  of  Coenred." 

"  About  that  time,  that  is,  in  the  year  725,  the  kingdom  of  the 
Northumbrians  began  to  totter,  and  not  long  afterwards  fell  altogether." 

CHAP.  24,  BOOK  5. 

"  But  four  prelates  now  hold  the  supremacy  of  the  province  of  the 
Northumbrians  which  Ceolulf  rules :  Wilfrid  in  the  church  of  York, 
Edivald  in  that  of  Lindisfarne,  Acca  in  that  of  Hagustald  [Hexham],  and 
Pecthelm  in  that  which  is  called  Candida  Casa  [the  White  Hut,  now 
Whithorn],  which,  now  that  the  numbers  of  the  faithful  have  multiplied, 
is  added  to  the  see  of  the  Pontificate,  and  has  the  Pope  himself  as  its 
hrst  bishop.  These  things  took  place  in  the  year  730." 

IN  THE  APPENDIX  TO  BEDE'S  HISTORY. 

"  In  the  year  740  Edilwald,  king  of  Mercia,  through  wicked  fraud, 
devastated  the  part  of  the  Northumbrians,  and  their  king,  Eadbert,  was 
engaged  with  his  army  against  the  Picts. " 


ANTIQUITY  OF  SCOTS  IN  BRITAIN          327 

IN  THE  SA3IE  PLACK. 

"In  the  year  761  CEngus,  who  is  Hungus  among  our  countrymen, 
died.  He  began,  and  continued  his  reign  to  the  end,  with  bloody  ill- 
doing,  as  a  butchering  tyrant;  and  Oswine  was  slain." 


ADNOTATA  ad  ANTIQUITATEM  SCO- 
TORUM  et  in  BRITANNIAM  TRA- 
JECTUM. 

Non  erat  mihi  animus,  in  geographicis  nostrae  regionis 
tabulis  corrigendis,  supplendis,  describendis  occupato,  ad  hoc 
manum  admovere,  et  nisi  tuis,  Doctissime  Buchanane,  iteratis 
flagitationibus  victus,  siluissem,  cum  haec  Antiquitatis  investi- 
gatio  tibi  jure  cesserit.  Attamen  quid  in  multis  sentiam, 
libere  apud  te  profitebor,  et  si  quandoc^  dissentiam,  tui  erit 
judicii  de  me  sententiam  ferre. 

Non  erat  necesse  de  nostris  antiquitatibus,  regni  primordiis 
et  in  hanc  insulam  immigratione,  longum  sermonem  instituere 
cum  maxima  earum  rerum  pars,  multis  saeculis  a  nobis  semota, 
sicut  et  aliarum  gentium,  caligine  tecta  delitescunt  et  veluti 
fluviorum  origines,  initio  exiguae,  ita  et  gentium  primordia, 
tenuia,  obscura,  lapso  demum  tempore  innotescunt.  Sic  apud 
veteres,  illi  quorum  initia  ultra  historiae  tempora  repetuntur 
Aborigines  dicti.  Aliter  se  res  nostrae  habent  cum  ma j  ores 
nostri,  uno  eodemc^  tempore,  magno  numero  in  Britanniam  ex 
Hibernia  transvecti,  statim  a  principio  sub  regibus  fuere; 
statim  reipublicae  for  mam  habuere.  Neq^  erat  opus  tarn  anxie 
in  primordia  nostra  inquirere,  nisi  Angli  historici  nobis  quon- 
dam ex  quotidianis  dissidiis,  ut  vicinis  gentibus  saepe  usu  venit, 
infesti,  nostrum  adventum  in  ea  tempora,  aut  paulo  supra  ea 
tempora  conjiciant,  quibus  Saxones,  ad  Pictos  etiam^  Scotos, 
majores  nostros,  finibus  Britonum  provincialium  depellendos, 
ab  illis  accersiti  sunt.  atq^  haec  omnia  tanti  erant,  ut  gravis 
controversia  de  iis  institueretur,  cum  jam  nobis  cum  illis  in 
unurn  imperium  conspirantibus,  lingua,  religione  et  moribus 
optime  conveniat,  et  multa  in  nos  studio  partium  impudenter, 
et  contra  rerum  fidem  prolata,  retractaverint  quicunq^  in 
hisce  studiis  supra  vulgum  sapiunt.  At  cum  quamplurima 


328  ANTIQUITY  OF  SCOTS  IN  BRITAIN 

de  hisce  rebus  scripta  a  quibusdam  iisc^  11011  minimis,  sed  qui 
familiam  ducunt,  latine  edita,  ad  exteros  emanaverint,  asse- 
renda  nostra  erant  aut  vadimonium  deserendum. 

Primum  illis  ludibrio  fuit  de  Scota  et  Gathelo  vetus  narratio, 
391.  quam  neq^  nobis  asserere  animus  est,  cum  nullis  prolatis  autori- 
bus  ea  fulciri  possit :  nostri  Annales,  secundum  rudioris  saeculi 
consuetudinem,  liinc  exordia  sumpsere,  at  detur  antiquitati 
venia,  cum  non  soli  nostri  in  hoc  peccaverint :  Annon  Franci 
Francionem  suum,  Dani  Danum  multiq^  alii  ejusdem  farinae, 
ante  renatas  bonas  literas  depraedicabant,  quibus  jam  omnibus 
exilium  indicium  ?  et  non  injuria  nostros  historicos  hinc  modu- 
lum  sumpsisse  non  inanis  suspicio  est :  praecipue  vero  ad  viciniae 
imitationem,  credibile  est  Brutum  Britaimicum  ejusq^fabulam, 
ne  nostri  in  postremis  haberentur,  animos  fecisse,  quam  ante 
annos  quadringentos  a  Galfrido  Arturio  CambroBritanno 
cusam  latinis  literis,  ut  tempora  ilia  tulere,  editam,  illo  ipso 
tempore,  doctorum  et  fide  dignorum  hominum  censura  notatam, 
quod  mirari  liceat  doctissimum  et  omnis  Antiquitatis  scientis- 
simum  Gulielmum  Cambdenum,  tantum  non  habuisse  pa- 
tronum,  qui  diserte  fatetur  se  ingenii  nervos  ad  earn  fulciendam 
adhibuisse,  sed  frustra,  nolle  se  tamen  ei  prejudicium  adferre, 
sed  intactam  relinquere. 

Idem  dum  nostram  antiquitatem  acriter  convellit,  nos  ante 
inclinationem  Imperil  Romani  hoc  est  paulo  ante  Saxones 
suos  in  Britanniam  advectos,  qui  demum  anno  Christi  449 
primum  auxiliares  provincialibus  hue  appulerunt,  nullas  in 
hac  insula  sedes  tenuisse,  et  paulo  ante  ilia  tempora,  nostrum 
Orbi  innotuisse  demum  nomen  contendit.  At  si  gentium 
origines  et  antiquitas  ex  Romanorum  de  iis  notitia  pendent, 
Deus  bone,  quot  illustres  gentes  patria  sua  per  multa  saecula 
cariturae  sunt,  immo  Britanni  ipsi  serius  Romanis  cogniti, 
prius  certe  Graecis,  non  effugient  hanc  notam,  nisi  Caesar  eos 
indigenas  maximum  partem  pronunciasset.  Jam  quid  de 
Gotthis,  Alanis,  Vandilis,  Francis,  Burgundionibus  et  in- 
numeris  aliis  sentiendum  ?  At  de  immigratione  patrum  nos- 
trorum  in  hanc  insulam  serior  quaestio  est,  quam  non  tantis 
confusam  tenebris,  tantus  rei  antiquariae  dictator  non  poterat 
non  vidisse.  eum  igitur  praejudicio  laborantem  hoc  dissimu- 
Jasse  fatendum  est. 


ANTIQUITY  OF  SCOTS  IN  BRITAIN  329 

Optimum  harum  controversiarum  judicem  advocemus  S£2. 
Bedam,  in  vicinia  nostra  apud  NordanHumbros  Saxones 
natum,  educatum,  quiq^  iis  locis  omnem  exegit  aetatem,  quae 
sane  Jonga  illi  contigit,  qui  annum  circa  salutis  730  e  vivis 
excessit,  jam  si  fides  epitaphio  ejus,  nonagerius;  is  nostram 
gen  tern  Picticamq^  optime  norat ;  cum  iis  ex  vicinia,  et 
relligionis  commercio  multum  versatus,  cujus  fides  ipso  Camb- 
deno  multum  in  omnibus  probata,  quern  incorruptum  et 
ingenuum  veritatis  et  antiquitatis  testem  pronunciat. 

Is  initio  historian  suae  Ecclesiasticae,  incolas  Britannia?, 
eorumq^  initia  referens,  primes  recenset  Bri  tones,  procul  dubio 
antiquissimos  de  quorum  origine,  neq^  illi  neq^  ipsis,  teste 
Caesare  aliquid  constabat,  adeo  illi  omni  prophana  historia 
antiquiores.  Proximos  his  enumerat  Pictos,  quorum  adventus 
causas  describit,  qui,  ut  ait,  hue  appulsi,  jam  pridem  plurima 
insulae  parte  ab  austro  incipiendo,  a  Britonibus  possessa. 

Subjungit  tertios  incolas  Scotos,  in  partem  Pictorum  re- 
ceptos,  qui  duce  Keuda  de  Hibernia  egressi  vel  ferro  vel 
amicitia  sibi  inter  eos  sedes  quas  hactenus  habent,  vindicarunt. 
Sedes  autem  hae  Bedae  tempore  ut  postea  narrabitur,  non 
excedebant  aestuarium  Glottae,  illis  simul  et  Pictis,  in  illas 
angustias,  vi  NordanHumbrorum  Saxonum  coactis. 

Jam  collocatis  in  insula  his  tribus  distinctis  populis, 
Romanorum  primum  adventum,  ut  rem  quae  posterioribus 
temporibus  acciderat,  describere  aggreditur.  Haec  legentibus 
clara,  perspicua  sunt,  nec^  ullis  verborum  ambagibus  involuta, 
sed  secundum  laudatam  patris  hujus  consuetudinem  simpliciter 
tradita. 

Scoti,  referente  doctissimo  Antiquario  Cambdeno,  paulo 
ante  Saxonum  adventum,  in  insula  consederant ;  vix  illud  certo 
concedit  nam  ex  verbis  [Bed&]  referentis  impudentes  grassa- 
tores  Hibernos  domum  regressos,  statim  reversuros,  et  ex 
verbis  Claudiani  : 

totam  cum  Scotus  lernam 
Movit,  et  infesto  spumavit  remige  Tethys, 

contendit   Scotos   nondum    hie   consedisse,   sed   ex    Hibernia  323. 
navibus  advectos,  praedas  egisse.     Longe  aliter  Beda,  trans- 
niarinas  autem   dicimus  has  gentes,  inquit  ille,  de  Pictis  et 
Scotis  sermonem  instituens,  non  quod  essent  extra  Britanniam 


330          ANTIQUITY  OF  SCOTS  IN  BRITAIN 

posita,  sed  quia  a  parte  Britonum  erant  remotae,  duobus 
sinibus  interjacentibus  &c.  Sod  ad  rem  :  Saxones  hue  accersiti 
trajecerunt  anno  Dom.  449.  fuerunt  in  insula  Scoti  panels 
ante  annis,  puta  novenis,  ita  Seoti  anno  440  primum  insulam 
tenuerunt. 

At  referente  Beda  jam  ante  Caesaris  prirnum  adventum  jam 
in  ea  sedes  ceperant,  ille  autem  secundum  eundem  autorem, 
anno  ante  Christum  natum  sexagesimo  (sic  scribit  Beda,  sed 
veriori  calculo,  trajectus  primus  Caesaris  incidit  in  annum 
Christ!  53)  primum  ad  hsec  littora  appulit.  ita  videtur  Cam- 
denus  decerpsisse  Bedse  ealculo,  a  Caesare  ad  annum  440. 
annos  quingentos,  ingens  certe  temporis  intervallum ;  super- 
sunt  adhuc  anni,  qui  Reudae  et  Caesaris  adventum  interces- 
serunt,  quos  nostri  Annales  definiunt  144  fuisse,  et  novem 
Regum  tempora  complectuntur ;  ut  quinc^  priores  Principes  a 
nostris  enumerati  non  veniant  in  censum.  Demus  nostros  in 
annorum  compute  a  Bedse  Reuda,  qui  nostris  Reutharis  est, 
aberrasse,  certe  nemo  non  fatebitur  plusculos  annos  intercessisse, 
neq^  in  numerum  nobis  erit  anxie  inquirendum,  cum  omnibus 
iis  annis  subtractis,  procul  dubio  Cambdenus  causa  cadet,  sed 
hsec  aequo  lectori  judicanda  relinquo. 

Jam  ad  alia  properanti  moram  fecit  anthropophagiae  nota, 
priori  libri  sui  editione  majoribus  nostris  inusta,  advocatis  in 
testimonium  Strabone  et  Hieronymo.  in  Strabone  nihil  tale 
me  legisse  memini,  neq^  apud  ilium  aliqua  Scotorum  mentio, 
qui  pauca  et  incerta  de  Britannia  recenset ;  ait  hoc  se  de 
Hibernis,  qui  Britannis  feriores  et  magis  ineulti,  audivisse. 

Cavendum  nobis  ab  Hieronymo  erat,  nisi  quod  videam 
posterioribus  hujus  viri  curis,  hanc  nobis  remissam  noxam  et 
.  infame  crimen  ad  Attacottos  relegatam,  ex  fide  manuscrip- 
torum  codicum  Erasmo  consentiente,  qui  locum  corruptum 
agnoscit,  et  Antiquarius  noster  refert  se  non  posse  non  fateri, 
in  quibusdam  manuscriptis  se  Attigotti,  Catagotti,  et  Cattitti 
legisse.  At  fuerit  verier  lectio  Attacotos  fuisse.  Populus 
ille  si  non  Scoti,  cum  Scotis  censetur  a  Marcellino,  unde  si 
credendum  Hieronymo,  regio  nostra  anthropophagia  infamis, 
quanquam  majores  nostri  ea  labe  immunes,  at  sane,  si  quis 
recte  hnec  perpendat,  tutius  multis  Rom.  historicis  priorum 
saeculorum  fidem  habebit,  illis  sane,  quorum  incolae  harum 


ANTIQUITY  OF  SCOTS  IN  BRITAIN          331 

regionum  infestissimi  hostes,  qui  cum  de  incolis  multa  refer- 
rent,  nihil  tale  scriptis  mandavere ;  non  Tacitus  ea  siluisset, 
non  Herodianus,  non  Dio,  qui  convitium  Juliae  Severae, 
Argetecoxi  uxoris  refert  de  concubitu  in  propatulo.  Non 
denic^  Marcellinus,  nullus  denic^  prseter  hunc  unum  Hierony- 
mum  hominem  iracundum,  et  cui  displicuisse  neino  impune 
tulit. 

Jam  anxie  a  nobis  inquiritur  nominis  Scoti  etymologia. 
Sugillatur  doctissimus  Buchananus  ignorantiae  aut  oscitantiae 
arguitur,  quod  in  hoc  spem  fefellerit.  in  re  tamardua,  profecto, 
auxilium  fert,  et  facem  praefert,  ex  conjecturis  suis,  suffragan- 
tibus  quibusdam  subobscuris  scriptoribus,  et  vocum  aliqua 
similitudine,  in  Scythiam  nos  amandat,  quibuscum  regionibus 
aut  populis  nihil  nobis  unquam  fuit  negotii ;  post  multa  tandem 
ex  farragine  plurimorum  infimae  classis  deprompta  concludit 
male  se  metuere,  quod  ad  originem,  ne  2KOTAIOI  semper 
futuri  simus.  Magnum  profecto  crimen  ad  Antiquarii  tribunal 
causam  dicturo.  Bene  se  habet  quod  non  soli  nos  rei ;  jam 
reddant  rationem  Romani,  cur  Hellenes  Graecos,  cur  trans- 
rhenanas  gentes  Germanos  vocarint.  Reddant  rationem 
nominis  sui  Franci,  Alemanni,  Suevi,  Catti,  Gotthi,  Alani, 
Vandili,  et  innumerae  aliae  gentes ;  aut  Dictator!  huic  non  erit 
satisfactum.  ille  ipse  in  Britanniae  etymo  misere  se  torquet. 
Sed  quando  illi  cum  Luddo  homine  Britanno,  e  veteribus  Bri- 
tannis  oriundo,  linguae  Britannicae  antiquae  peritissimo  et  in 
hisce  rebus  non  leviter  exercitato  non  conveniat  nescio  quam 
fidem  conjectura  ejus  merebitur;  conjecturam  autem  suam 
fatetur,  quae  de  ea  re  profert,  neq^  quicquam  certi  statuere  audet 
et  nos  quod  non  aliquid  de  nomine  nostro  conjiciamus,  quod 
fortasse  nos  aliorum  ludibrio  aut  irrisui  exponeret,  homini 
severo  vapulamus. 


332    TRANSLATION  :  ANTIQUITY  OF  SCOTS  IN  BRITAIN 

The  following  is  a  translation  into  English 
of  what  goes  before  in  Latin  regarding  the 
Antiquity  of  the  Scots  in  Britain. 

Some   remarks    as   to  author   and   date    are 
given  in  the  Preface. 


NOTES  relating  to  the  ANTIQUITY  of  the  SCOTS 
and  their  CROSSING  into  BRITAIN. 

It  was  not  my  intention,  most  learned  Buchanan,  engaged  as  1  was  in 
correcting,  supplementing,  and  describing  the  maps  of  our  country,  to 
apply  my  hand  to  this ;  and  had  1  not  been  overcome  by  your  repeated 
solicitations  I  should  have  been  silent,  since  this  inquiry  into  antiquity 
has  fallen  to  you  by  right.  I  will,  however,  freely  set  forth  to  you  what 
my  thoughts  are  about  many  points,  and  if  at  any  time  I  disagree  witli 
you,  it  will  be  in  your  judgment  to  express  your  opinion  of  me. 

It  was  not  necessary  to  make  a  long  discourse  on  our  antiquities,  the 
beginnings  of  the  kingdom  and  the  immigration  into  this  island,  since 
most  of  these  matters,  being  removed  from  us,  by  many  centuries,  are, 
like  those  of  other  nations  as  well,  hidden  in  a  mist,  and  as  the  sources 
of  rivers  are  small  at  first,  so  also  the  beginnings  of  nations,  slender  and 
obscure,  become  evident  at  length  in  the  course  of  time.  Thus  among  the 
ancients,  those  whose  origin  is  traced  beyond  historical  times  are  called 
aborigines.  Our  history  is  different,  since  our  ancestors,  crossing  into 
Britain  in  great  numbers  at  one  and  the  same  time,  had  kings  from  the 
first,  and  possessed  a  settled  form  of  government.  Nor  would  there  he 
any  need  to  inquire  so  anxiously  into  our  commencement,  did  not 
English  historians,  who  were  formerly  hostile  to  us  owing  to  daily 
quarrels,  as  often  happens  in  neighbouring  nations,  place  our  arrival 
at  the  time,  or  a  little  before  the  time,  when  the  Saxons  were  summoned 
by  the  Britons  to  expel  the  Picts,  and  also  our  ancestors  the  Scots,  from 
British  territory.  And  all  these  matters  were  of  such  importance  that  a 
serious  controversy  arose  about  them,  when,  as  we  are  now  united  with 
the  English  in  one  government,  there  is  an  excellent  agreement  between 
us  in  language,  religion  and  manners ;  and  all  who  have  more  than  a 
common  knowledge  of  these  studies  have  anew  brought  forward  and 
published  much  against  us,  through  shameless  party  zeal.  But  since  not 
a  little  that  has  been  written  on  those  subjects  by  certain  men,  and  those 
not  obscure,  but  able  to  trace  their  lineage,  being  published  in  Latin 
has  reached  foreigners,  we  had  to  assert  our  claims  or  desert  our  case. 

First  they  found  matter  for  ridicule  in  the  ancient  story  about  Scota 
and  Gathelus,  which  we  have  no  intention  of  defending,  as  it  cannot  be 


TRANSLATION  :  ANTIQUITY  OF  SCOTS  IN  BRITAIN    333 

supported  by  the  production  of  authorities.  Our  annals,  according-  to  the 
practice  of  a  ruder  age,  took  their  orgin  from  this  source,  but  ancient 
writers  must  be  pardoned,  since  our  countrymen  have  not  been  the 
only  sinners  in  this  respect.  Before  the  revival  of  learning  did  not  the 
Franks  boast  of  their  Fraucio,  the  Danes  of  their  Danus,  and  others  of 
similar  founders,  against  all  of  whom  sentence  of  banishment  has  been 
pronounced?  There  is,  rightly,  strong  ground  for  the  suspicion  that 
our  historians  took  their  cue  from  this,  and  especially  that,  lest  our 
countrymen  should  be  considered  as  among  the  latest  in  origin,  they 
were  encouraged  to  imitate  their  neighbours,  as  we  may  believe,  by 
Brutus  Britannicus  and  his  story.  This  myth,  done  in  Latin  letters,  as 
those  times  Required,  and  published  by  the  Welshman  Galfrid  Arthur, 
four  hundred  years  ago,  was  at  that  same  time  branded  with  the  censure 
of  men  of  learning  and  credit;  and  we  may  therefore  be  surprised  that  it 
all  but  found  a  defender  in  the  most  learned  writer,  so  highly  skilled  in 
all  antiquity,  William  Camden,  who  frankly  confesses  that  he  applied 
all  the  powers  of  his  mind  to  support  it,  but  in  vain,  though  he  is  un- 
willing to  do  anything  prejudicial  to  the  myth,  and  leaves  it  untouched. 
The  same  author,  while  he  keenly  plucks  up  our  antiquity,  maintains 
that  we  held  no  settlements  in  this  island  before  the  decline  of  the 
Roman  Empire,  that  is,  a  little  before  his  Saxons  sailed  into  Britain, 
who  landed  here  first  as  auxiliaries  to  the  provincials  as  late  as  the  year 
of  Christ  449,  and  that  our  name  became  known  to  the  world  shortly 
before  that  time.  But  if  the  origins  and  antiquity  of  nations  depend 
on  the  knowledge  of  them  possessed  by  the  Romans,  good  God,  how 
many  famous  nations  will  be  without  their  fatherland  for  many 
centuries  !  Even  the  Britons  themselves  were  late  in  becoming  known 
to  the  Romans,  as  the  Greeks  were  certainly  acquainted  with  them 
previously,  and  they  will  not  escape  this  aspersion,  only  that  Caesar 
declared  most  of  them  were  natives  of  the  soil.  Now  what  is  to  be 
thought  about  the  Goths,  the  Alans,  the  Vandals,  the  Franks,  the 
Burgundians  and  others  without  number?  But  the  question  of  the 
immigration  of  our  fathers  into  this  island  is  later,  and  so  great  a 
dictator  could  not  fail  to  have  seen  that  it  was  not  involved  in  such 
darkness.  It  must  therefore  be  acknowledged  that  under  the  influence 
of  prejudice  he  concealed  this. 

In  these  disputes  let  us  call  as  judge  Bede,  who  was  born  and  bred 
among  the  Northumbrian  Saxons,  spending  all  his  life  in  those  places — 
and  it  was  certainly  a  long  life  that  fell  to  his  lot,  for  he  died  about  the 
year  of  salvation  730,  when  he  was  now  ninety  years  of  age,  if  we  believe 
his  epitaph.  He  knew  our  nation  and  that  of  the  Picts  very  well ;  with 
them,  owing  to  neighbourhood  and  religious  intercourse,  he  was  much 
engaged,  and  his  credibility  is  highly  approved  by  Camden  himself  in  all 
points,  for  he  declares  him  an  incorrupt  and  candid  witness  to  truth  and 
antiquity. 

At  the  commencement  of  his  Ecclesiastical  History,  when  speaking  of 


334    TRANSLATION  :  ANTIQUITY  OF  SCOTS  IN  BRITAIN 

the  inhabitants  of  Britain  and  their  beginnings,  he  reviews  the  Britons 
first,  as  doubtless  the  most  ancient,  about  whose  origin,  on  the  authority 
of  Caesar,  nothing  was  known  for  certain  to  him  or  to  themselves,  so 
much  older  were  they  than  all  profane  history.  Next  to  these  he 
mentions  the  Picts.  They,  as  he  says,  landed  here  after  the  greatest 
part  of  the  island,  beginning  from  the  south,  had  been  long  possessed  by 
the  Britons.  He  adds  as  the  third  set  of  inhabitants  admitted  into  the 
part  of  the  Picts,  the  Scots,  who,  under  the  leadership  of  Reuda,  depart- 
ing from  Ireland,  secured  for  themselves,  either  by  the  sword  or  by 
friendship  the  settlements  which  they  still  possess.  But  these  settle- 
ments in  Bede's  time,  as  will  be  narrated  afterwards,  did  not  go  beyond 
the  Frith  of  Clyde,  the  Scots  at  the  same  time  as  the  Picts  being  driven 
into  those  fastnesses  by  the  power  of  the  Northumbrians. 

Now  having  placed  these  three  distinct  nations  in  the  island,  he  pro- 
ceeds to  describe  the  first  arrival  of  the  Romans  as  an  occurrence  of 
later  times.  These  events  are  plain  and  perspicuous  to  readers,  and 
are  not  wrapped  in  ambiguous  words,  but,  according  to  the  praiseworthy 
style  of  this  father,  told  in  simple  language. 

The  Scots,  in  the  narrative  of  the  most  learned  antiquary  Camden, 
had  settled  in  the  island  a  little  before  the  coming  of  the  Saxons.  He 
hardly  grants  this  as  a  certainty,  for  from  the  words  [of  Bede],  who 
mentions  that  the  shameless  Irish  robbers  had  returned  home,  to  come 
back  immediately,  and  from  the  verse  of  Claudian— 

'  When  the  Scot  stirred  the  whole  of  Ireland, 
And  the  sea  foamed  with  hostile  rowers,' 

he  maintains  that  the  Scots  had  not  yet  settled  here,  but  sailing  in  ships 
from  Ireland  had  carried  off  plunder.  Bede's  statement  is  quite  dif- 
ferent :  '  Now  we  speak  of  these  nations  as  dwelling  beyond  the  sea,'  he 
says,  in  beginning  his  discourse  on  the  Picts  and  Scots,  'not  because 
they  had  been  situated  outside  of  Britain,  but  because  they  had  lived 
.remote  from  the  part  of  the  Britons,  with  two  bays  lying  between,'  etc. 
But  to  the  point.  The  Saxons,  being  summoned  hither,  crossed  in  the 
year  of  the  Lord  449.  The  Scots  were  in  the  island  a  few  years  before 
that,  namely  nine,  and  thus  the  Scots  first  reached  the  island  in  the 
year  440. 

But,  as  Bede  relates,  they  had  already  formed  settlements  in  it  before 
the  first  arrival  of  Caesar,  and  he,  according  to  the  same  author,  first 
lauded  on  these  shores  in  the  sixtieth  year  before  the  birth  of  Christ 
(so  Bede  writes,  but  by  a  truer  calculation  Caesar's  first  crossing  was  in 
the  year  of  Christ  53).  Thus  Camden  appears  to  have  deducted  the 
five  hundred  years  from  Caesar  to  the  year  440  from  Bede's  reckoning, 
certainly  an  immense  length  of  time.  There  still  remain  the  years  that 
intervened  between  the  coming  of  Reuda  and  of  Caesar,  which  our  annals 
determine  to  have  been  a  hundred  and  forty-four,  and  embrace  the 
reigns  of  nine  kings,  so  that  the  first  five  sovereigns  mentioned  by  our 
writers  do  not  come  into  the  reckoning.  Granting  that  our  historians 


TRANSLATION  :  ANTIQUITY  OF  SCOTS  IN  BRITAIN    335 

went  wrong1  in  computing;  the  years  from  Bede's  Reuda,  who  is  the 
Reutharis  of  Scottish  writers,  certainly  every  one  will  admit  that 
some  years  intervened,  and  we  need  not  anxiously  inquire  into  the 
number,  since,  when  all  these  years  are  deducted,  beyond  doubt  Caniden 
will  fail  in  his  case. 

Now,  as  I  hasten  to  other  subjects,  delay  is  created  by  the  stigma  of 
cannibalism  with  which  he  brands  our  ancestors  in  the  first  edition  of 
his  book,  calling  Strabo  and  Jerome  to  witness.  In  Strabo  I  do  not 
remember  that  I  read  any  such  thing-,  nor  in  his  book  is  there  any 
mention  of  the  Scots,  for  he  treats  briefly  and  obscurely  about  Britain  : 
he  says  that  he  heard  this  about  the  Irish,  who  are  more  savage  and 
uncultured  than  the  British. 

We  should  have  to  be  on  our  guard  against  Jerome,  were  it  not  that 
I  see,  in  the  later  labours  of  this  man,  this  vile  and  offensive  charge 
departed  from  in  our  case,  and  brought  against  the  Attacotti,  according 
to  the  testimony  of  manuscripts,  with  the  approval  of  Erasmus,  who 
recognises  the  passage  as  corrupt ;  and  our  Antiquary  says  he  must 
admit  that  in  some  manuscripts  he  has  read  Attigotti,  Catagotti,  and 
Cattitti.  But  let  the  truer  reading  have  been  Attacoti.  That  nation, 
if  not  Scots,  is  enumerated  with  the  Scots  by  Marcellinus,  so  that,  if  we 
believe  Jerome,  our  land  was  infamous  on  account  of  cannibalism,  though 
our  ancestors  were  free  from  that  stain ;  but  surely  if  any  one  weighs 
this  matter  aright,  he  will  place  his  confidence  with  more  safety  in  the 
numerous  Roman  historians  of  previous  centuries,  whose  bitterest 
enemies  were  the  inhabitants  of  these  regions,  and  who,  while  they 
relate  much  about  the  inhabitants,  have  inserted  no  such  charge  in  their 
writings.  Tacitus  would  not  have  been  silent  about  it,  nor  Herodianus, 
nor  Dio,  who  mentions  the  reproach  of  Julia  Severa,  wife  of  Argete- 
coxus,  about  concubinage  in  public.  Lastly,  Marcellinus  would  not 
have  omitted  it ;  in  short,  none  mentions  it  except  this  Jerome  alone,  a 
passionate  man,  from  whom  no  one  that  had  incurred  his  displeasure  got 
off  scot-free. 

Now  the  derivation  of  the  name  Scots  is  anxiously  inquired  of  us.  The 
most  learned  Buchanan  is  vilified,  and  charged  with  ignorance  or 
negligence  because  he  has  disappoiuted  expectations  in  this  matter.  On 
a  point  so  difficult  he1  undoubtedly  gives  help  and  supplies  a  stimulus 
with  his  guesses  to  those  who  favour  certain  somewhat  obscure  writers, 
and  from  some  similarity  of  sounds  he  relegates  us  to  Scythia,  though 
we  never  had  any  business  with  those  regions  or  nations.  At  length, 
after  much  that  is  taken  from  the  hash  of  numerous  writers  of  the 
lowest  class,  he  comes  to  the  conclusion  that  he  is  badly  afraid  that  as 
regards  the  derivation  we  shall  always  be  2KOTAIOI  [in  the  dark]. 
Truly  a  momentous  charge  for  one  who  is  to  stand  his  trial  at  the  bar  of 
the  Antiquary.  It  is  well  that  we  are  not  the  only  defendants.  Let  the 


Camden. — ED. 


336  ROMAN  WALLS 

Romans  now  account  for  their  calling  the  Hellenes  Greeks,  and  the 
tribes  beyond  the  Rhine  Germans.  Let  the  Franks,  the  Alemanni, 
the  Suevi,  the  Catti,  the  Goths,  the  Alans,  the  Vandals,  and  other 
nations  innumerable  account  for  their  names,  or  this  dictator  will  not 
be  satisfied.  He  himself  twists  about  painfully  in  the  derivation  of 
Britain.  But  while  there  is  no  agreement  between  him  and  Lhuyd,  a 
Briton,  descended  from  the  ancient  Britons,  deeply  versed  in  the 
ancient  British  tongue,  and  having  no  little  practice  in  these  matters, 
his  guess  will  deserve  some  credit.  He  admits  it  is  his  own  guess  which 
he  puts  forward,  but  yet  he  does  not  venture  to  determine  anything  for 
certain  ;  and  we,  because  we  make  no  conjecture  about  our  own  name, 
which  might  perhaps  expose  us  to  the  mockery  or  derision  of  others,  are 
chastised  by  this  severe  person. 


ADNOTATA  AD  PR^ETENTURAS, 
MUROS,  VALLA  qine  Scotos  a  pro- 
vincialibus  (listing tiebant. 

Cum  doctissimus  Cambdenus  omnia  lustraverit  et  collegerit 
quae  ad  hanc  rem  faciunt,  non  erat  opus  hanc  eandem  re- 
coquere,  nisi  controversia  aliqua  subsit  de  iis  qui  diversis 
temporibus  has  praetenturas  statuerunt.  ego,  ut  quid  sentiam 
libere  dicam,  existimo  Julium  Agricolam  primum  id  conatum 
potius  quam  perfecisse  inter  Glottam  et  Bodotriam  :  praesidiis 
eum  tractum  ilium  firmasse  Tacitus  refert,  at  de  muro  aut 
vallo  nihil  refert. 

Neq^  ilia  praesidia  continuisse  hostes,  sub  Trajano  aliis  curis, 
Dacico  scilicet  et  Parthico  bellis  distento,  innuit  Spartianus, 
subactos  tamen,  id  est  ut  ego  conjicio,  intra  priores  angustias 
rejectos,  hostes. 

Sequitur  Adriani  Imperium,  qui  primus  celebre  munimentum 
per  transversam  insulam  duxit;  vallum  hoc  fuisse  ex  Spartiani 
verbis  conjicere  licet  ad  modum  castrensis  munitionis.  primum 
egesta  humus,  fossa  patens  facta;  humus  sic  egesta,  vallo 
materiem  praebuit,  in  summitate  densis  stipitibus  munitum, 
aut  si  suspitio  ulla  valli  in  fossam  delabendi,  cespite  ora  tege- 
batur:  haec  erat  praetenturae  quam  Imperator  ille  duxit  ratio, 
At  cardo  rei  est,  ubinam  terrarum  collocetur  praetentura  haec. 
Contendit  Cambdenus  ibidem  positam  ubi  Severus  postea 


ROMAN  WALLS  337 

earn  munivit.  videtur  mihi  potius,  inter  duo  praedicta  freta 
sita. 

Nullus  erat  locus  commodior,  nullibi  tarn  angusta  insula. 
jam  Agricolae  opus  eum  ad  hoc  invitare  poterat,  nec^  verosimile 
est  ilium  Imperatorem  tanta  regione  cessisse  hostibus,  quanta 
has  duas  praetenturas  interjacet,  quae  recens  ante  eum  pars  im- 
perii  fuerat.  Quod  adfert  Cambodenus  de  ejus  longitudine  ex 
Spartiano,  exigui  roboris  est,  cur  non  mihi  liceat  dicere  mendam 
in  numeris  esse  et  pro  80,  30  reponi  debere  cum  ille  in  numeris  326. 
valli  Severi  hoc  sibi  licere  vult.  ubi  enim  Eutropius  habet  35. 
m.  p.  reponit  ille  80.  ubi  Orosius  habet  122  m.  p.  ille  retrahit 
ad  80,  ita  in  numeris  parum  praesidii.  at  quae  affert  de  praesidiis, 
quae  postea  nominantur  ad  vallum  Severi  excubasse,  quae 
Adriani  referunt  nomen,  ut  pons  ^Elius,  Classis  ^Elia,  Conors 
JElia,  Ala  Sabiniana,  Dii  boni,  quam  invalidum  hoc.  quis  nescit 
legiones,  alas,  cohortes,  semel  lectas  et  ad  militiam  compositas, 
nominibus  distinctas,  semper  postea  ubicunc^  militarent,  nomina 
sua  retenuisse,  quae  exemplis  multarum  aetatum  probare  est 
facillimum.  unde  Ala  Scriboniana,  Legio  Septima  Galbiana 
Jovii,  Herculii ;  haec  nomina  viguere  longe  post  illos  extinctos, 
qui  primi  eos  ad  militiam  allegerant,  nominac^  dederant.  Nec^ 
moror  Scotum  ilium  de  quo  ille  refert,  qui  Rotam  Temporum 
scripsit,  ut  neq^  Boethium  nostrum,  qui  nihil  hie  praesidii  ad- 
ferre  possunt,  nisi  testem  antiquitatem  proferant. 

Sed  neq^  Lollii  Urbici  tertia  praetentura  locum  aut  veritatem 
habet,  nam  si  totum  hoc  inter  duas  praedictas  interval!  um, 
probe  vestigetur,  nullum  ullius  aut  vestigium,  aut  suspitio, 
cum  regiones  illae  montibus  ut  plurimum  horridae,  praesertim 
in  mediterraneis,  talibus  operibus  cessurae  non  erant,  neq^  legati 
alicujus  cum  exiguis  copiis  talia  moliri  erat  quae  Imperatorem 
ipsum  et  plenum  exercitum  desideratura  erant. 

Duae  tantum  legiones  sub  eo  praesidia  tune  agitabant,  Legio 
secunda  Augusta,  et  legio  vigesima  Valens  Victrix,  quarum 
frequens  mentio  in  lapidibus  erutis  de  vallo  hoc,  quod  Hadriani 
dixi :  unus  sic  habet. 

LEG  II 
AVG. 

Alter  qui  ad  hue  celebri  loco  extat.     Extat  in  porticu  Duno- . 

VOL.   II.  Y 


338  ROMAN  WALLS 

trii,  quse  comitis  Marescalli  arx  est  in  provincia  Mernia.    Sic  se 
habet. 
sg?.  IMP.  CAESARI.  T.  AELIO. 

ADRIANO.  ANTONINO.  AVG. 

P.  PP.  VEXILLATION.  LEG. 

XX  VAL.  VIC.  FP.  MIL.  P.  III. 

posterior  haec  Inscriptio  veritatem  de  Lollio  Urbico  testatur, 
ilium  nullum  novum  murum  aut  praetenturam  excitasse,  sed 
suum  opus  quod  Antoninum  Imp.  praefert,  veteri  Hadriani  prae- 
tenturae  superstruxisse.  Commodo  imperante,  res  se  pejus  ha- 
buere,  donee  Severus  cum  ingenti  exercitu  advenit,  qui  se  ipsum 
et  hostes  fatigavit,  senio^  confectus  vitam  in  provincia  finivit, 
nondum  sopito  contra  hostes  bello.  certe,  cum  saepe  evolvissem 
quaecunq^  de  hac  postrema  expeditione  bellicossimi  hujus  Im- 
peratoris,  literis  mandata  sunt,  in  multis  non  est  mihi  satis- 
factum,  adeo  confuse  multa  prodita  sunt.  fatendum  est  euni 
aut  filios  celeberrimum  ilium  murum  statuisse,  cujus  magna 
pars  hodieq^  extat,  ab  Ituna  ad  Tinam  procurrens,  sed  quomodo 
tanto  agro  cesserit  hostibus,  nulla  necessitate  coactus  manente 
bello,  non  capio.  et  tamen  autores  volunt  opus  hoc  ipsius  esse. 
si  dixissent,  mortuo  patre,  filios,  ad  capessendum  Imperiuni 
aut  Imperii  voluptates,  in  Italiam  festinantes,  cum  hostibus 
pepigisse,  et  opus  hoc  statuisse,  credibiliora  nobis  retulissent. 

Certe  praetentura  haec,  et  novus  hie  limes,  semper  postea 
litibus,  bellis,  caedibus  aeterna  semina  praebuit ;  nam  cum  Scoti, 
Picti,  Attacotti,  Dicaledones,  Vetturiones,  Maeatae,  suis  sedi- 
bus  divisi,  sed  sub  duobus  principibus,  Scotorum  et  Pictorum 
nomine,  ut  paulo  ante  ex  Beda  monui,  primum  ab  Agricola 
rejecti  ultra  Bodotriam  et  Glottam,  tota  ora  occidentali  erepta 
Scotis  et  orientali  depulsis  Pictis,  illi  primum  ad  omnes  motus 
intenti  ad  sua  recuperanda,  magnas  turbas  sub  diversis  Im- 
peratoribus  dederant,  sed  semper  coerciti  et  ad  Agricolae 
vallum  rejecti,  donee  Severus  tanto  agro  iis  cessit,  quantum 
optare  quidem,  sperare  autem  non  possent.  Et  certe  videtur, 
si  Roman!  se  vallo  Severi  continuissent,  eos  vicinos  non  hostes 
habuissent.  At  postquam,  ut  referunt  historic!  quidam  non 
infimae  notae,  Nennius  qui  vixit  An.  620,  Carausius,  imperante 
328.  Diocletiano,  iterum  ad  Bodotriam  promovit  limitem,  et  imper- 


ROMAN  WALLS  339 

ante  Valentiniano,  Theodosius  Imperatoris  Theodosii  parens, 
agrum  omnem  prastenturis  interjectum  in  provincial  formam 
redegit  Valentias  nomine,  hostes  nihil  non  moliti  contra 
Romanes  tanquam  fcedifragos,  et  quae  amisissent  tanquam  sua 
repetentes.  sed  frustra  base  omnia,  unde  tristis  rerum  facies, 
per  totam  illam  controversam,  incendia,  caedes  regionem  vastitas 
et  quaecunq^  in  bello  licent. 

Attamen  Romani  quae  ceperant,  constanter  retinuerunt, 
quandiu  stetit  incolume  Imperium,  et  murus  ille  vel  praetentura. 
quern  primus  Agricola  fixerat,  mansit  postremus  limes,  ilium 
Gallic  Ravennas  munierat,  ilium  videtur  Stiliconem  muniisse. 
illo  postremum  amisso,  postquam  Romani  insulam  deseruere 
.ad  vallum  Severi  munitiones  retraxere  teste  Beda,  in  quo 
absentibus  jam  Romanis,  nihil  erat  firmum.  Hostes  caedibus 
efferati,  in  provinciales  a  Romanis  desertos  et  delectibus 
Tyrannorum  exhaustos,  quod  fatendum  est,  crudeliter  saevie- 
runt,  dum  odiis  indulgent,  aut  praedae  libidine  aguntur.  nec^ 
finis  antequam  Saxones  advocati. 

Haec  ideo  fusius  persecutus  sum,  ut  belli  causas,  quae  tot 
Scriptores  intactas  praetermisere,  aperirem,  neq^  illos  barbaros, 
illos  bostes,  tanta  pertinacia  bella  continua  prosecutes,  sine 
legittima,  ut  sibi  videbatur,  odii  causa,  cum  haec  omnia  Romanis 
imputarent,qui  limites  legittime  statutes  avaritia  sua  violassent. 


The  following  is  a  translation  into  English  of 
the  Notes  relating  to  the  Walls  and  Ramparts 
separating  the  Scots  from  the  Provincials. 

Some  remarks  as  to  authorship  and  date  are 
given  in  the  Preface. 

NOTES  relating  to  the  DEFENSIVE  LINES, 
WALLS,  and  RAMPARTS  which  separated  the 
SCOTS  from  the  PROVINCIALS. 

Since  the  most  learned  Camden  has  surveyed  and  collected  all  that 
makes  for  this  subject  there  would  be  no  need  to  recast  the  same,  unless 


340  TRANSLATION  :  ROMAN  WALLS 

some  controversy  still  existed  about  those  who  at  various  times  con- 
structed these  defensive  lines.  To  speak  freely  what  I  think,  I  am  of 
opinion  that  Julius  Agricola  was  the  first  to  attempt  rather  than  accom- 
plish that  work  between  the  Forth  and  the  Clyde.  Tacitus  mentions 
that  he  strengthened  that  tract  with  garrisons,,  but  says  nothing  about 
a  wall  or  a  rampart. 

Spartian  indicates  that  those  garrisons  did  not  check  the  enemy  in 
the  reign  of  Trajan,  who  was  engaged  in  other  wars,  namely,  those 
against  the  Dacians  and  the  Parthians,  but  that  the  enemy  were  sub- 
dued, that  is,  as  I  conjecture,  pushed  back  to  their  former  fastnesses. 

Next  comes  the  rule  of  Adrian,  who  was  the  first  to  make  the  celebrated 
fortification  across  the  island.  We  may  gather  from  Spartian  that 
this  was  a  rampart  after  the  manner  of  the  fortification  of  a  camp. 
First  the  earth  was  dug  out  and  a  broad  ditch  made ;  the  earth  thus  dug 
out  supplied  the  material  for  a  rampart,  which  was  fortified  on  the  top 
with  thickly  set  trunks  of  trees,  or  if  there  was  any  fear  of  the  wall 
falling  down  into  the  ditch,  its  face  was  covered  with  turf.  This  was 
the  formation  of  the  line  of  defence  which  that  general  made.  But  the 
cardinal  point  is  where  in  the  world  this  line  is  placed.  Camden  holds 
that  it  was  in  the  same  position  where  Severus  afterwards  fortified  a 
wall.  To  me  it  rather  appears  to  have  been  situated  between  the  two 
friths  aforesaid. 

No  place  was  more  convenient ;  nowhere  is  the  island  so  narrow. 
Now,  Agricola's  operations  might  invite  him  to  this,  nor  is  it  likely  that 
that  general  retired  before  the  enemy  from  so  great  a  tract  as  lies 
between  these  two  lines,  a  district  that  shortly  before  his  time  had  been 
part  of  the  Empire.  What  Camden  adduces  from  Spartian  about  its 
length  is  of  little  moment  to  hinder  my  saying  that  there  is  a  mistake 
in  his  numbers,  and  that  30  should  be  put  for  80,  seeing  that  he  takes 
this  upon  himself  in  the  numbers  of  Severus's  wall.  For  where  Eutropius 
has  35  he  puts  80,  and  where  Orosius  has  122  miles  he  reduces  that 
to  80.  Thus  there  is  little  assistance  to  be  derived  from  numbers.  But 
what  he  alleges  about  the  garrisons  which  are  afterwards  named  as 
having  kept  watch  at  the  wall  of  Severus,  and  which  bear  Adrian's 
name,  as  the  ^Elian  Bridge,  the  JElian  Fleet,  the  ^Elian  Cohort,  and  the 
Sabinian  Horse,  ye  good  gods,  how  weak  this  is  !  Who  does  not  know 
that  legions,  auxiliary  horse  and  cohorts,  once  raised  and  embodied  for 
military  service  with  distinctive  names  ever  afterwards  retained  their 
names  wherever  they  served,  which  it  is  very  easy  to  prove  by  instances 
in  all  ages  ;  whence  the  Scribonian  Wing,  the  Seventh  Galbian  Legion, 
the  Jovians,  and  the  Herculians.  These  names  flourished  long  after 
the  death  of  those  who  had  first  enrolled  them  for  military  service, 
and  given  the  designations.  Nor  do  I  waste  time  with  the  Scot  about 
whom  that  author  speaks,  and  who  wrote  the  Rota  Temporum  [the 
Wheel  of  the  Times],  nor  our  own  Boece,  as  they  can  give  us  no  help 
here,  unless  they  bring  forward  antiquity  as  witness. 


TRANSLATION:  ROMAN  WALLS  341 

But  a  third  wall,  made  by  Lollius  Urbicus,  has  no  place  or  reality, 
for  if  the  whole  space  between  the  two  lines  aforesaid  be  properly 
examined,  there  is  no  trace  or  suspicion  of  any,  since  those  regions  are 
for  the  most  part  mountainous,  especially  in  the  inland  districts,  and 
would  be  impracticable  for  such  works  ;  and  it  was  not  in  the  power  of 
any  lieutenant-general  with  a  few  troops  to  construct  what  would  require 
the  commander-in-chief  himself  with  a  full  army. 

Only  two  legions  supplied  the  garrisons  under  him  at  that  time,  the 
Second  Legion,  the  August,  and  the  Twentieth  Legion,  the  Strong  and 
Victorious,  frequently  mentioned  on  stones  dug  out  of  this  rampart, 
which  I  have  said  is  Hadrian's.  One  has  this  : — 

LEG  II 
AVG. 

There  is  another  which  is  still  extant  in  a  celebrated  place.  It  stands 
in  the  entrance-hall  of  Dunottar,  a  castle  that  belongs  to  the  Earl 
Marischal  in  the  shire  of  Mearns.  It  runs  as  follows  : — 

IMP.  CAESARI.  T.  AELIO. 
ADRIANO.  ANTONINO.  AVG. 
P.  PP.  VEXILLATION.  LEG. 
XX.  VAL.  VIC.  FP.  MIL.  P.  III. 

This  latter  inscription  testifies  the  truth  about  Lollius  Urbicus,  namely, 
that  he  raised  no  new  wall  or  line  of  defence  but  superimposed  his  own 
work,  which  recognises  the  Emperor  Antonine,  on  the  old  line  of 
Hadrian.  In  the  reign  of  Commodus  affairs  were  in  a  bad  way,  until 
Severus  came  with  an  immense  army  and  wore  out  himself  and  the 
enemy.  Weakened  with  old  age  he  ended  his  life  in  the  province,  ere 
yet  the  war  against  the  enemy  was  over.  In  truth,  though  I  have 
pondered  all  that  has  been  committed  to  writing  about  this,  the  last 
expedition  of  this  warlike  emperor,  on  many  points  I  cannot  satisfy 
myself,  so  confusedly  are  many  matters  handed  down.  It  must  be 
acknowledged  that  he  or  his  sons  built  that  wall,  of  which  a  great  portion 
is  still  in  existence,  stretching  from  Ituna  [on  the  Solway]  to  the  Tyne, 
but  how  he  gave  up  so  much  land  to  the  enemy  I  do  not  understand. 
And  yet  authors  will  have  it  that  this  is  his  own  work.  If  they  had 
said  that  on  the  death  of  their  father,  his  sons,  hastening  to  Italy  to 
snatch  empire  or  the  pleasures  of  empire,  had  come  to  terms  with  the 
enemy  and  built  this  work,  they  would  have  told  a  story  easier  for  us  to 
believe. 

At  any  rate,  this  new  line  of  defence  and  this  new  boundary  ever  after 
afforded  grounds  for  quarrels,  wars,  and  massacres  ;  for  when  the  Scots, 
the  Picts,  the  Attaccotti,  the  Dicaledones,  the  Vetturiones,  and  the 
Ma3atae,  with  settlements  apart,  but  under  two  chiefs  of  the  Scottish 
and  Pictish  nations,  were  first,  as  I  showed  a  little  ago  from  Bede, 


342  TRANSLATION  :  ROMAN  WALLS 

driven  by  Agricola  beyond  the  Forth  and  the  Clyde,  the  whole  of  the 
western  coast  being1  taken  from  the  Scots,  and  the  Picts  expelled  from 
the  eastern,  they  first,  being  bent  on  all  movements  for  recovering  their 
own,  had  given  much  trouble  under  various  emperors.  They  were, 
however,  constantly  checked  and  driven  back  to  Agricola's  wall,  until 
Severus  yielded  to  them  as  much  territory  as  they  might  indeed  wish,, 
but  could  not  expect.  And,  no  doubt,  if  the  Romans  had  kept  within 
the  wall  of  Severus  they  would  not  have  had  those  tribes  as  near 
enemies.  But,  as  mentioned  by  certain  historians  not  of  the  lowest 
repute,  such  as  Nennius,  who  lived  in  the  year  620,  after  Carausius  in 
the  reign  of  Diocletian  again  advanced  the  boundary  to  the  Forth, 
and,  in  the  reign  of  Valentinian,  Theodosius,  father  of  the  Emperor 
Theodosius,  reduced  all  the  territory  lying  between  the  lines  into  the 
form  of  a  province  with  the  name  of  Valentia,  the  enemy  spared  no 
effort  against  the  Romans  as  treaty-breakers,  and  sought  to  recover  as 
their  own  what  they  had  lost.  But  all  this  was  in  vain ;  so  that  the 
face  of  affairs  was  gloomy,  and  throughout  that  disputed  tract  there 
were  burnings,  massacres,  devastation,  and  all  that  may  happen  in  war. 

The  Romans,  however,  kept  with  a  firm  grasp  what  they  had  taken, 
as  long  as  the  Empire  stood  safe,  and  that  wall  or  line  of  defence  which 
Agricola  was  the  first  to  fix  remained  the  farthest  boundary.  Gallio 
of  Ravenna  had  strengthened  it,  and  Stilicho  seems  to  have  fortified  it. 
Ultimately  when  it  was  lost,  after  the  Romans  left  the  island,  they 
withdrew  the  defences  to  Severus's  wall,  as  Bede  testifies,  in  which,  since 
the  Romans  were  absent  there  was  no  security.  The  enemy,  maddened 
with  slaughters,  took  cruel  measures,  as  we  must  admit,  against  the 
provincials,  abandoned  by  the  Romans  and  exhausted  by  the  levies  of 
the  usurpers,  while  they  gratified  their  hatred  or  carried  off  plunder  at 
their  will ;  nor  was  there  an  end  of  it  till  the  Saxons  were  summoned. 

I  have  treated  this  subject  somewhat  fully  in  order  that  I  might 
explain  the  causes  of  the  war  which  so  many  writers  have  passed  by 
untouched,  and  show  that  those  barbarians  and  those  enemies  conducted 
warfare  with  so  much  determination  not  without  legitimate  grounds  for 
hatred,  as  it  appeared  to  themselves,  since  they  attributed  all  these 
evils  to  the  Romans,  who  in  their  greediness  had  violated  the  limits 
lawfully  fixed. 


ADNOTATA  DE  ORIGINE  LINGUAE 
SAXONICZE  apud  nos  cum  priina  nobis 
fuisset  Hybernica. 

Non  injuria  ssepe  quseritur  quomodo  nobis  usu  venerit,  ut 
cum  majores  nostri  ex  Hibernia  hue  advecti,  una  etiam  linguam 


ORIGIN  OF  THE  SAXON  TONGUE  343 

illam  advehentes,  jam  ut  plurimum  earn  plane  dedidicerint, 
ei<k  successerit  Saxonica  primum,  quas  variante  apud  Anglos 
dialecto,  ita  etiam  apud  nos  variaverit.  nec^  ulla  re  differamus, 
nisi  quod  crassior  paullum  minusc^  quam  apud  illos  culta,  pre- 
sertim  in  vulgo,  quemadmodum  in  plerisq^  regnis  non  ubic^ 
eadem  puritas,  ut  in  Hispania,  in  Gallia,  Italia,  ceterisq^  fere 
usu  venit,  nec^  certius  peregrinitatem  in  ullo  discas  quam  ex 
sermone.  Apud  Anglos  qui  purius  loquuntur,  vocibus  pere- 
grinis  quotidie  civitatem  dant  nec^  illud  inopia,  sed  luxu  ser- , 
monis  et  novitatis  aviditate,  unde  varise  provincial  apud  illos, 
quse  longius  ab  hac  vocum  recens  allectarum,  ut  ita  dicam, 
officina,  absunt,  serins  illam  novitatem  hauserint,  prassertim 
vulgus.  Nostratibus  qui  longissime  distant  et  quam  minimum 
talia  curant,  sermo  antiquior  in  usu,  quern  delicatuli  isti 
novatores  fastidiunt  et  ut  obsoletum  aspernantur,  ita  a  primaeva 
Saxonica  tam  longe  recessum  ut  si  hodie  legatur,  nemo  earn 
amplius  intelligat  et  quemadmodum  hodierna  Gallica  a  Celtica, 
sic  a  sua  matrice,  nostra  abiit.  ista  Anglica  jam  totum  fere 
nostrum  regnum  pervasit  si  oram  occiduam  a  Glottae  freto  ad 
septentrionem  excipias,  ubi  profunda  barbaries  priscum  ser- 
inonem  retinet.  At  hunc  nobis  non  fuisse  ab  initio  patrium, 
luculentus  testis  est  Beda,  qui  refert  suo  tempore  Deum  praedi- 
cari  apud  Britannos  quinc^  diversis  linguis,  Britannica  Saxonica, 
Pictica,  Scotica,  et  Latina  omnibus  communi. 

Jam  videamus  quomodo  adrepserit  nobis  sermo  hie  ab  initio 
peregrinus,  et  cum  tempore  tam  altas  radices  egerit  ut  noster 
primasvus  deportatus  in  extremas  oras  exulet.  non  edicta  Im- 
peratorum,  non  omnis  Imperil  Romani  vis,  quantumvis  in  hoc 
enixa,  provinciales  sermones  potuere  vulgo  excutere.  Impera- 
torum  edictis  intelligo  non  fuisse  provincialibus  suum  idioma 
vetitum.  sed  latine  solum  apud  tribunalia  jura  dabantur,  et  pro 
majestate  imperil  et  ut  provinciales  necessario  ad  id  discendum 
incumberent,  cujus  illis  in  tota  vita  tantus  usus. 

Cum  mutatio  haec  non  fuerit  repentina,  ne<^  fieri  potuerit, 
jam  facta  tantum  intelligitur,  et  quemadmodum  alluvies  in 
Huminibus  jam  nata  cernitur,  unde  apud  historicos  altum  ea 
de  re  silentium. 

Quidam  ex  commercio  et  communione  nostra  cum  vicinis 
Anglis  primordia  hujus  rei  manasse  volunt.  Postquam 


344  ORIGIN  OF  THE  SAXON  TONGUE 

Saxones  Christianismum  amplexi  sunt,  et  sub  uno  pncsertim 
rege  haberi  coepti  sunt,  maxima  inter  has  vicinas  gentes 
330.  amicitia  fuit,  prsesertim  postqm  nostri  vendicaverant  sibi,  quae 
Saxones  NordanHumbri  iis  jure  belli  eripuerant,  sed  nulla 
talis  aut  tanta  consuetudo  eos  tenuit,  ut  nativo  nostro  sermoni 
aliquid  decerpi  potuerit:  nec^  videtur  conjectura  haec  aut  vera 
aut  verosimilis. 

Alii  ad  tempora  Milcolumbi  tertii  regis  nostri  haec  referunt, 
quae  incidunt  in  paucos  annos  ante  Normannicam  in  Anglia 
procellam,  turn  enim  Eadgarus  regni  legittimus  haeres,  sceptris 
exclusus  cum  tota  familia  in  has  oras  advectus,  Hberaliter  a 
Milcolumbo  susceptus  est,  qui  non  ita  pridem  exul,  in  illo 
regno  tutum  perfugio  locum  invenerat,  et  ad  sua  redeunti,  ut 
MacBethum  tyrannum  regno  usurpato  depelleret,  multos 
eosc^  non  infimi  ordinis  Anglos  comites  fortunae  habuit,  unde 
succedentibus  rebus  ille  Hberaliter  eos  agris,  praediis,  honori- 
bus  remuneratus  est.  testantur  annales  nostri,  multas  claras 
familias,  quorum  posteri  hodiecj^  supersunt,  huic  expedition! 
debere  suas  origines,  eorumq^  cognomina  manent,  et  multuin 
numerosa  prole  diffusa  sunt.  Eadgarus  igitur  Hberaliter  habi- 
tus, novae  affinitati  ansam  dedit.  Margareta  ejus  soror,  castitate, 
sanctitate,  omnibus  virtutibus  lectissima  virgo  Milcolumbo 
desponsa  est,  unde  illis  quibuscunc^  cum  Normannis  non  bene 
conveniret,  tutum  hie  erat  asylum ;  inde  expeditiones  et  bella 
suscepta  ad  coronae  Anglicae  jus  repetendum,  sed  irritae,  cum 
jam  plebs,  ecclesiastici  omnes,  et  maxima  procerum  pars 
victori  Normanno  manus  dedisset.  At  nec^  Eadgari  comi- 
tatus,  aut  ante  eum  Milcolumbi  reducis  socii  tantum  potuere 
ut  linguam  nativam  extinguerent,  nullus  talis  eorum  nurnerns 
fuit  ut  plebi  et  populo  praevalerent.  et  res  haec  certe  suffrages 
nititur,  mera  hie  democratia,  aut,  quod  deterius,  ochlocratia 
est.  plebs,  populus  sermoni  praeest,  nec^  in  imperantis  manu 
est  ut  aliter  fiat. 

At  quid  sentiam  dicam,  et  si  quis  aliud  verosimile  adferat 

quod  meo  praeponderet  sensui,  aequo  animo  feram,  pedibus  in 

SSI.  sententiam  ejus  ibo,  adeo  mihi  non  obluctari  veritati  certum  est. 

Cum  primum  majores  nostri,  et  antea  Picti  sedes  suas  in 
hac  insula  cepissent,  paulatim  sese  difFudere,  et  crescente 
sobole  auxere  quoq^  limites,  primum  aestuariis  Forthaet  Glotta 


ORIGIN  OF  THE  SAXON  TONGUE  345 

coerciti,  ultra  ab  utrisc^  processum  est.  Picti  sequuti  orientale 
littus,  Lothianam  et  quicquid  ab  austro  Forthse  est  sibi  vendi- 
carunt.  si  limitem  quaeras,  videntur  possedisse  totum  id,  in 
quod  pulsis  illis,  successere  nostri.  Scoti  vero  occidentalem 
oram  trans  Glottam  sibi  vendicavere.  prima  utrisq^  certamina 
cum  Britonibus  erant,  variante  fortuna,  donee  Julius  Agricola 
cum  exercitu  Romano  litem  diremit,  neq^  tamen  ille  pacata 
omnia  a  tergo  reliquerat;  multum  belli  supererat,  multa? 
gentes  nondum  jugum  acceperant,  sed  haec  omnia  virtus 
Komana  pervasit,  ita  nostri  Pictiq^  ultra  duo  sestuaria  rejecti, 
et  limes  hie  constanter  ad  Severum  mansit.  quanquam  saepe 
perruptus,  nihil  tamen  possessum,  praemium  belli  depraedatio 
agrorum  fuit.  Primus  Severus  limitem  mutavit  et  vallum  de 
nomine  suo  dictum  aut  ille  aut  filii  statuere.  Sed  Carausius 
qui  insulam  sibi  vendicavit,  sub  Diocletiano  et  Maximiano 
protulit  munimenta  et  ad  Adriani  vallum  terminum  fixit. 
quern  postea  sequuti  Romani  constanter  tutati  sunt,  quandiu 
Britanniam  habuere,  nisi  quod  extremis  Romani  Imperil  in  ea 
insula  satis  prasvalentibus  hostibus,  iterum  ad  Severi  vallum 
reditum  est,  quod  absentibus  Romanis  non  potuit  arcere 
hostes. 

Jam  advocantur  Saxones,  eaq^  medicina  adhibetur  quae 
excessit  malum  ;  perfidia  sociorum  plus  misera3  genti  nocuit, 
quam  ulla  hostium  crudelitas.  illi  non  content!  praeda,  spoliis, 
provinciam,  ut  notum  est,  sibi  vendicant.  nee  imperare  contenti 
ut  quondam  Romani,  aut  miti  victoria  sese  victis  miscere  ut 
Franci  Gallis,  eorumq^  nepotibus,  postea  Dani,  non  ante  excisam 
gentem,  aut  in  avia  oblegatam,  in  vacuas  sedes  successere.  illi 
multis  ducibus  diversa  loca  invasere,  at  omnibus  idem  studium  332. 
vastitatem  facere,  et  turn  demum  nova  regna  condere.  Qui 
septentrionalia  invasere  NordanHumbrorum  nomine,  valido 
exercitu  sub  duobus  ducibus,  duo  regna  Deirae  et  Berniciae 
nominibus  condidere.  illi  quicquid  Severus  Scotis  Pictisq^  ex 
fcedere  reliquerat,  de  quo  postea  tantis  cladibus  certatum  erat, 
jam  iterum  majoribus  nostris  Pictisc^  eripuere;  Limitem  ad 
vallum  Agricolae  et  Hadrian!,  hoc  est  ad  duo  freta,  protulere. 
neq^  inde  ulla  vi,  etiam  post  receptum  Christianismum  divelli 
potuere  donee  primum  discordiis  civilibus,  postea  incumbenti- 
bus  Danis,  debilitati  et  fracti  paulo  ante  exactos  Pictos  ex 


346  ORIGIN  OF  THE  SAXON  TONGUE 

insula.  Scoti  et  Picti  in  sua  rediere  et  miti  victoria  usi,  popuJo 
ut  plurimum  sedibus  suis  permisso,  domini  regionum  facti 
sunt,  quas  postea  constanter  ad  hunc  diem  tenuere. 

Harum  rerum  veritatem  usq^  ad  Saxonicam  procellam,  satis 
quae  dicta  sunt  testantur,  cum  de  praetenturis  verba  faceremr 
at  quae  successere  Bedam  autorem  habent,  qui  ea  omnia 
optirne  norat ;  ex  eo  multa  haurire  licet,  quae  veritatem  hanc 
stabiliant.  Meminit  ille  Twedae  fluvii  Muilrosii  ccenobii,  imo 
quod  magis  est,  Abircurnig  ad  fretum  Bodotriae  quae  hodie 
Abircorne  est.  ubi  turn  temporis  Coenobium  fuisse  ait,  quod 
ad  initia  valli  Romanorum  collocat ;  meminit  quoq^Episcopatus- 
Candida?  Casae,  quae  hodie  in  Gallovidia  noscitur.  haec  omnia 
et  longe  plura  loca  operi  ejus  inspersa  refert,  ut  regni  Nordan 
Humbrorum  membra  illudq^  solum  agnoscentia,  neq^  ilia  ex 
auditu,  sed  quae  suis  temporibus  oculis  hauserat.  Refert  ille 
Regem  NordanHumbrorum  Oswin,  gentem  Pictorum  magna 
ex  parte  Anglis  subdidisse  circa  annum  660.  Refert  quoq^ 
Aidanum  Scotorum  regem  cum  numeroso  exercitu  contra 
NordanHumbros  conflixisse  infeliciter,  unde  postea  nemo- 
illis  de  provinciis  bello  partis  controversiam  facere  ausus  est. 
Atc^  hie  erat  rerum  status  Bedae  tempore. 

Sed  contusis  et  fractis  Saxonum  NordanHumbrorum 
opibus,  nostri  Pictiq^  in  sua  rediere.  non  quidem  vacua,  sed 
Saxone  cultore  plena,  victores,  posita  iracundia,  victoria 
clementer  usi  sunt;  donee  in  unum  corpus  cum  victore,  ut 
postea  factum,  coalescerent.  mansit  lingua  quae  mere  Saxonica, 
nec^  eis  iis  regionibus  quae  Forthae  et  Glottas  ad  austrum  sunt, 
exigi  potuit,  cum  illae  novos  dominos,  antiques  colonos  habe- 
rent.  hae  tertiam  regni  partem,  si  locorum  spatia  respicias,, 
constituunt.  at  si  bonitatem  agrorum,  incolarum  multitudinem, 
opes,  primas  tenet,  unde  regio,  posthabitis  ulterioribus,  hie 
sedem  h'xit,  inde  jus,  commercium,  negotiatio,  et  quicquid  ad 
bene  vi  vend  urn  avide  quaeritur,  potissimum  viget,  floret,  et  a, 
multis  aetatibus  viguit  floruitq^.  Cum  igitur  tanto  tempore  a 
Saxonibus  possessa  sermo,  intactis  ut  dixi,  colonis  manserit,  quis- 
dubitet  hinc  nos  hodierni  sermonis  cunabula  repetere  debere? 


TRANSLATION  :  ORIGIN  OF  THE  SAXON  TONGUE     347 


What  follows  is  a  translation  of  the  Latin 
Account  of  the  Origin  of  the  Saxon  Tongue  in 
Scotland. 

Some  remarks  on  this  item  of  the   Collec- 
tions are  given  in  the  Preface. 

NOTES  on  the  ORIGIN  of  the  SAXON  TONGUE  in 
our  country,  whereas  our  first  language  was  the  IRISH. 

The  question  is  often  asked  with  propriety  how  it  happened  to  us  that 
while  our  ancestors  sailed  hither  from  Ireland  bringing-  with  them  also 
the  Irish  language.,  they  quite  unlearned  it  for  the  most  part,  and  how 
first  it  was  succeeded  by  the  Saxon,  which,  varying  in  dialect  among 
the  English,  has  also  changed  in  this  country.  Nor  should  we  differ 
in  any  point  except  that  it  is  a  little  rougher  and  less  polished  than  in 
England,  particularly  among  the  common  people,  since  in  most  realms 
there  is  not  the  same  purity  everywhere,  just  as  is  generally  the  case  in 
Spain,  in  France,  in  Italy  and  the  other  countries,  nor  can  you  discern 
a  foreign  element  in  any  one  more  readily  than  by  his  speech.  In 
England  the  purer  speakers  adopt  foreign  words  every  day,  and  that 
not  from  poverty  but  from  wealth  of  language,  and  a  desire  for  novelty  ;. 
so  that  various  shires  of  that  country  which  are  further  distant  from  the 
manufactory,  so  to  speak,  of  these  newly  introduced  words  are  late  in 
borrowing  that  innovation,  especially  in  the  case  of  the  common  crowd. 
Our  countrymen,  who  are  most  remote  and  least  concerned  about  such 
matters,  use  the  older  speech,  which  those  nice  innovators  disdain,  and 
despise  as  obsolete.  It  is  also  so  far  removed  from  the  primitive  Saxon 
that  if  it  were  read  nowadays  nobody  would  any  longer  understand  it ; 
and  our  language  has  left  its  original  form,  as  modern  French  ha& 
departed  from  the  Celtic.  That  English  tongue  has  now  overspread 
almost  the  whole  of  the  kingdom,  if  you  except  the  west  coast  from  the 
Frith  of  Clyde  northwards,  where  the  profound  barbarism  preserves  the 
ancient  speech.  But  Bede  is  a  clear  witness  to  the  fact  that  this  was  not 
originally  hereditary  with  us.  He  tells  that  in  his  time  God  was  preached 
in  Britain  in  five  different  languages,  the  British,  the  Saxon,  the  Pictish,. 
the  Scottish,  and  the  Latin  common  to  all.  Now  let  us  see  how  at  first 


348    TRANSLATION  :  ORIGIN  OF  THE  SAXON  TONGUE 

this  foreign  language  crept  in  amongst  us,  and  in  time  struck  its  roots  so 
deep  that  our  primitive  speech  was  banished  to  the  farthest  coasts,  and 
is  in  exile.  Neither  the  edicts  of  emperors  nor  all  the  power  of  the 
Roman  Empire,  whatever  its  efforts  in  this  direction,  could  make  the 
common  people  discard  the  provincial  languages.  I  do  not  mean  that 
their  own  idiom  was  forbidden  to  the  provincials  by  imperial  edicts. 
JJut  justice  was  administered  at  the  law  courts  in  Latin  only,  both  in 
accordance  with  the  majesty  of  the  Empire,  and  in  order  that  the 
provincials  might,  of  necessity,  apply  themselves  to  learn  what  they 
were  to  use  so  much  during  all  their  lives. 

While  this  change  has  not  been  sudden,  and  could  not  be  created,  it 
is  understood  only  after  it  has  been  made,  and  like  puddles  in  rivers,  is 
seen  when  produced  ;  and  hence  there  is  deep  silence  in  historians 
about  that  subject. 

Some  will  have  it  that  the  beginnings  of  this  change  came  from 
our  intercourse  and  communications  with  our  English  neighbours. 
After  the  Saxons  embraced  Christianity,  and  began  to  be  ruled  by  one 
king  in  particular,  there  was  the  greatest  friendship  between  these 
neighbouring  nations,  especially  after  our  countrymen  recovered  what 
the  Northumbrian  Saxons  had  snatched  from  them  by  the  right  of 
war  ;  but  no  such  intimacy  bound  them  that  anything  could  be  taken 
away  from  our  native  speech,  nor  does  this  conjecture  seem  either  true 
or  probable.  Others  refer  its  origin  to  the  time  of  our  King  Malcolm  in. , 
which  falls  a  few  years  before  the  Norman  upheaval  in  England  ;  for 
then  Edgar,  the  lawful  heir  to  the  kingdom,  being  with  all  his  family 
excluded  from  the  throne,  came  to  these  borders,  and  was  generously 
befriended  by  Malcolm,  who,  when  in  exile  not  long  before,  had  found 
a  safe  asylum  in  that  kingdom,  and  returned  to  his  own  country  to 
dethrone  the  usurper  Macbeth,  who  had  seized  the  royal  power. 
His  fortunes  were  shared  by  many  Englishmen,  and  those  not  of  the 
lowest  rank.  He,  therefore,  in  his  prosperity  rewarded  them  liberally 
with  lands,  estates,  and  honours.  Our  annals  bear  witness  that 
many  illustrious  families,  whose  descendants  survive  at  the  present 
day,  owe  their  rise  to  this  expedition ;  their  surnames  remain,  and  are 
widely  diffused  among  a  numerous  offspring.  Edward,  therefore,  being 
.generously  entertained  gave  a  handle  to  the  new  alliance.  His  sister 
Margaret,  a  maiden  excelling  in  purity,  saintliness,  and  all  the  virtues, 
was  betrothed  to  Malcolm,  and  hence  there  was  a  safe  refuge  here  for 
all  those  who  disagreed  with  the  Normans ;  and  then  expeditions  and 
wars  were  undertaken  to  regain  the  right  of  the  English  crown,  but 
they  were  ineffectual,  since  now  the  common  people,  all  the  clergy,  and 
most  of  the  nobles  had  yielded  to  the  victorious  Norman.  But  neither 
Kdgar's  retinue  nor,  before  him,  that  of  Malcolm  at  his  restoration  was 
so  influential  or  so  numerous  as  to  destroy  the  native  tongue,  or  prevail 
over  the  commons  and  people.  And  this  is  a  matter  of  opinion,  whether 
we  have  here  pure  democracy,  or  what  is  worse,  ochlocracy.  The 


TRANSLATION  :  ORIGIN  OF  THE  SAXON  TONGUE 


commons,  the  people,  rule  the  language  ;  nor  is  it  in  the  power  of  a 
sovereign  to  make  it  otherwise. 

But  I  will  say  what  I  think,,  and  if  any  one  can  bring  forward 
another  probable  theory  to  overbalance  my  feeling,  I  will  bear  it  with 
equanimity,  and  vote  for  his  view,  so  determined  am  I  not  to  struggle 
against  the  truth. 

When  first  our  ancestors,  and  the  Picts  before  them,  took  up  their 
abodes  in  this  island,  they  spread  out  by  degrees,  and  as  their 
descendants  multiplied,  they  also  extended  their  bounds  ;  having  been 
at  first  restricted  by  the  friths  of  Forth  and  Clyde,  they  advanced 
beyond  the  two.  The  Picts,  following  the  east  coast,  claimed  Lothian  and 
all  that  is  south  of  the  Forth.  If  you  seek  a  limit,  they  appear  to  have 
possessed  all  that  to  which,  on  their  expulsion,  our  ancestors  succeeded. 
But  the  Scots  claimed  the  west  coast,  beyond  the  Clyde.  The  first 
battles  of  both  were  fought  against  the  Britons  with  varying  success, 
until  Julius  Agricola  with  a  Roman  army  ended  the  contention  ;  yet 
even  he  had  not  left  all  at  peace  behind  his  back.  Much  of  the  war 
remained,  and  many  tribes  had  not  yet  accepted  the  yoke  ;  but  Roman 
valour  penetrated  all  these,  and  so  our  countrymen  and  the  Picts  \vere 
pushed  back  beyond  the  two  friths,  and  this  boundary  remained  con- 
tinuously till  the  time  of  Severus.  Though  it  was  often  passed,  still, 
nothing  was  permanently  retained,  and  the  reward  of  war  was  the 
plundering  of  the  fields.  Severus  was  the  first  to  change  the  boundary, 
and  either  he  or  his  sons  built  the  wall  called  by  his  name.  But 
Carausius  who  claimed  the  island  for  himself,  under  Diocletian  and 
Maximian,  brought  the  defences  forward,  fixing  the  limit  at  Adrian's 
wall,  and  the  Romans  subsequently  followed  his  example  as  long  as 
they  held  Britain,  except  that  in  the  later  times  of  the  Roman  Empire, 
when  the  enemy  were  very  powerful  in  that  island,  there  was  a  return 
to  the  wall  of  Severus,  which,  at  the  departure  of  the  Romans,  could  not 
check  the  foe. 

Now  the  Saxons  were  summoned,  and  that  remedy  was  applied  which 
proved  worse  than  the  disease.  The  treachery  of  their  allies  did  more 
harm  to  the  miserable  nation  than  any  cruelty  of  their  enemies.  The 
Saxons,  not  content  with  plunder  and  spoils,  secured  the  province  for 
themselves,  and  not  satisfied  with  ruling,  as  were  the  Romans  before 
them,  or  with  exercising  their  victory  mildly,  and  mingling  with  the 
conquered  inhabitants,  as  the  Franks  did  with  the  Gauls,  and  the  Danes 
afterwards  with  their  descendants,  they  cut  the  nation  off,  or  banished  it 
to  pathless  tracts,  and  succeeded  to  the  vacant  settlements.  Under 
many  leaders  they  invaded  different  localities,  but  all  were  fired  with 
the  same  zeal  for  creating  devastation,  and  then  at  length  founding 
new  kingdoms.  Those  who  invaded  the  north,  and  were  named  the 
Northumbrians,  with  a  strong  army  under  two  leaders  founded  twa 
kingdoms  called  Deira  and  Bernicia.  They  again  took  from  our 
ancestors  and  the  Picts  all  that  Severus  had  left  to  the  Scots  and  the 


350    TRANSLATION  :   ORIGIN  OF  THE  SAXON  TONGUE 

Picts  according  to  the  treaty  about  which  there  was  afterwards  so 
much  disastrous  contention,  and  pushed  their  boundary  forward  to  the 
wall  of  Agricola  and  Hadrian,  that  is  to  the  two  friths.  Nor  could 
they  be  dislodged  from  thence  by  any  force,  even  after  the  adoption  of 
Christianity,  until,  through  civil  discords  at  first,  and  then  owing  to  the 
pressure  of  the  Danes,  they  were  weakened  and  broken,  a  little  before 
the  expulsion  of  the  Picts.  The  Scots  and  Picts  returned  to  their  own 
possessions,  where,  using  their  victory  mildly,  they  left  the  people  in 
their  homes,  and  became  proprietors  of  those  districts,  which  they  have 
ever  since  held  to  this  day. 

What  was  said  when  I  spoke  of  the  Defensive  Lines  bears  sufficient 
witness  to  the  reality  of  these  events  down  to  the  Saxon  Invasion.  But 
for  subsequent  events  we  have  as  our  authority  Bede,  who  knew  all 
about  them  very  well.  From  him  one  may  gather  much  to  establish  the 
truth  of  this  history.  He  mentions  the  river  Tweed,  the  monastery  of 
Melrose,  and  what  is  more,  Abircurnig,  which  is  now  Abercorne,  on  the 
Frith  of  Forth,  where  he  says  there  was  at  that  time  a  monastery.  He 
places  it  at  the  commencement  of  the  Roman  wall.  He  also  mentions 
the  bishopric  of  Candida  Casa  [the  White  Hut],  which  is  known  at  the 
present  day  in  Galloway.  He  refers  to  all  these  and  many  more  places 
in  various  passages  of  his  work  as  parts  of  the  kingdom  of  the  North- 
umbrians, which  acknowledged  it  alone ;  and  he  does  so  not  from  hear- 
say, but  as  what  he  had  seen  on  his  own  time  with  his  eyes.  He  tells 
that  Oswy,  King  of  the  Northumbrians,  brought  a  great  part  of  the 
Pictish  nation  under  the  sway  of  the  English  about  the  year  660.  He 
also  tells  that  Aidan,  King  of  the  Scots,  was  defeated  with  a  numerous 
army  by  the  Northumbrians,  so  that  no  one  afterwards  ventured  to 
dispute  with  them  about  the  provinces  gained  in  war. 

But  when  the  power  of  the  Northumbrians  was  crushed  and  shattered, 
our  ancestors  and  the  Picts  returned  to  their  own  possessions,  which 
were  not,  however,  vacant,  but  filled  with  Saxon  inhabitants ;  and  the 
victors,  dismissing  their  anger,  used  their  triumph  mildly,  with  a  view 
to  an  incorporating  union,  which  afterwards  took  place.  The  language, 
which  was  purely  Saxon,  remained,  nor  could  it  be  driven  out  of  those 
districts  which  are  to  the  south  of  the  Forth  and  the  Clyde,  since  they 
had  new  owners,  but  old  inhabitants.  These  districts  form  the  third 
part  of  the  kingdom,  if  you  have  regard  to  the  extent  of  land,  but  if  to 
the  fertility  of  the  fields,  and  the  number  and  wealth  of  the  inhabitants, 
they  hold  the  first  position.  Therefore  the  country,  neglecting  more 
distant  places,  here  fixed  its  capital,  and  from  it  law,  commerce,  trade 
and  all  that  is  conducive  to  living  well,  are  eagerly  looked  for,  and  here 
chiefly  are  stro.ng  and  flourishing,  and  have  for  many  ages  been  strong 
and  flourishing.  Since,  therefore,  the  language  spoken  by  the  Saxons 
has  for  so  long  a  time  remained  in  the  mouths  of  undisturbed  inhabitants, 
who  can  doubt  that  from  this  circumstance  we  ought  to  trace  the  in- 
fancy of  our  modern  speech  ? 


THULE  351 


DE  THULE  INSULA  DISSERTATIO. 

Thule  vatum  carminibus,  etiam  historicorum  relationibus 
••apud  veteres  Celebris,  hodie  in  tanta  literarum  luce,  tanto 
qngeniorum  pro  vent  u,  adhuc  ignoratur  et  latet,  et  certe  nisi 
Ptolomseus  digito  hue  intendisset,  adhuc  lateret.  Cum  ea 
'Orbis  Britannic!  aut  pars  esset  aut  appendex,  nil  mirum 
•exteros  de  ea  parum  sollicitos.  At  sane  non  effugisset  saga- 
•cissimum  Cambdeni  ingenium,  si  hac  animum  advertisset,  sed 
illi  extra  tabulam  fortasse  deerant  ilia  legittima  ad  hanc 
rem  subsidia ;  nondum  viderat  insulas  omnes  quse  nostrum 
regnum  circum  ambiunt  natural!  situ  descriptas,  nam  hsec 
omnia  nupera  sunt.  Quidam  recentiores,  qui  earn  tenebris 
eruere  conati  sunt,  existimarunt  Shetlandiam  aut  Shetlandicas 
oostras  insulas  antiquorum  Thulen  habitas,  eo  argumento 
persuasi,  quod  illse  insulae  in  nostro  orbe  ultimas  sint.  nam  de 
Islandia  nemini  unquam  tale  aliquid  in  mentem  venit.  At 
Komanos  vidisse  Shetlandicas  insulas,  aut  unquam  eo  perrexisse 
navibus,  sentire  vanum  est.  Claudii  classis  primum  Orcades 
aperuit,  quas  poetarum  adulatio  eum  domuisse  refert:  non 
erat  res  magni  negotii,  eas  omnes  subjugasse,  ubi  nullum  er&tss4, 
victorias  operas  pretium  praeter  famam,  quam  Imperator  ille 
desultoria  ilia  in  Britanniam  expeditione  aucupabatur,  earnc^ 
abunde  consecutus  est.  Postea  Julii  Agricolae  classis,  insulam 
circumvecta,  plures  insulas  ad  occidentem  detexit,  sed  illas 
omnes,  sicuti  Orcades,  sicuti  septentrionalia  regni  nostri 
despexerunt,  et  ut  sibi  inutilia  neglexerunt.  illi  his  circum- 
navigationibus  oram  legentes,  ob  immensi  et  periculosi  oceani 
metum,  contenti  fuere  littora  aut  littori  apposita  vidisse ;  neq^ 
mirum,  cum  vel  hodie  maria  ilia  quamvis  omnia  glacie  imrnunia, 
non  semper  navibus  pervia  sint,  ventis,  procellis  et  vorticosis 
sestibus  infamia.  Fretum  illud  quod  Scotiam  et  Orcades  inter- 
jacet,  Picticum  dictum,  ignaris  et  sine  perito  nauclero  non 
facilem  habet  trajectum.  Quid  igitur  de  Romana  in  Shet- 
landiam navigatione,  ut  ibi  Thule  inveniatur,  sperandum  est  ? 
est  quoc^  ilia  tellus  ex  multarum  insularum  congerie  compacta, 
cum  Thulen  unius  insulae  nomine  agnoscamus,  quam  Romani 
non  auditu,  sed  visu  hauserant;  illuc  quandoq^  appulsa  est 


352  THULE 

inter  Shetlandicas  una,  plane  ex  iis  quae  maxime  in  Boream 
vergunt,  exigua  sane,  et  scopulus  verius  quam  insula,  cui  hodie 
nomen  Fula.  aliqui  allusione  nominis  decepti,  hie  Thulen 
quaesivere.  nonnulli  insulam  quae  Fayr-yle,  id  est  pulchra  insula, 
medio  inter  Shetlandiam  et  Orcadas  itinere,  aperto  mari,  ad 
Thulen  retulere.  sed  ilia  nullo  modo  Ptolomaicae  descriptioni 
quadrat,  cum  ille  Thulen  non  exiguam,  sicut  pulchra  ilia  est, 
sed  insignem  magnitudine  nobis  exhibeat.  cujus  medium  et 
quatuor  latera  expressis  numeris  signat.  Alibi  igitur  quae- 
renda  est,  talis  autem  quam  Romanae  classes  adire  ausae  sunt. 
haec  est  non  procul  a  continente,  et  quae  magnitudine  sua 
numeris  ejus  aliquo  modo  respondeat. 

Si  quis  igitur  Ptolomaicam  tabulam  ob  oculos  sibi  ponat, 

S35.  accurate  illam  secundum  numeros  ejus  descriptam,  deinde 
mutet  plagas  cceli,  et  quae  illi  ad  dextram,  ut  orientalia, 
imaginetur  borealia  esse,  sicut  revera  sunt,  quae  vero  ille  pro 
borealibus  in  universa  tabula  descripsit,  pro  occiduis  habeanturr 
habebitur  non  inconcinna  totius  regni  nostri  descriptio;  quod 
non  abhorrebit  ab  hodierno  regionum  situ.  Ille  vir  tantus 
male  sane  de  Oread um  posit u  edoctus,  eas  in  occasum  ultra 
naturalem  si  turn  produxit.  et  e  tribus  promentorium  illud 

.  quod  maxime  in  occasum  vergit,  Orcadis  nomine  insignivit,. 
quod  hodie  Farro  vel  Farrohead  nominatur.  Orcadibus  in- 
ventis,  de  quibus  nullum  dubium  est,  Thule  ex  eo  investiganda 
est,  nemo  enim  praeter  ilium  unum,  quicquam  de  ilia  insula 
praeter  nudum  nomen  nobis  retulit.  At  si  ilium  ducem 
sequamur,  obversa  ut  dixi  tabula,  aut  plagis  mutatis,  in  occi- 
dentem  tentandum  est,  ubi  prima  et  omnium  quae  in  illo  mari 
sparguntur,  longe  maxima  occurrit  insula  Leogus  Buchanano 
dicta,  alii  Levissam  dicunt,  communiter  Lewis,  cujus  pars 
australis  tenui  isthmo  reliquae  insulae  adhaerens  Haray  nomen 
habet.  Insula  haec  quadraginta  sex  milliaria  nostratia  in 
longum  patet,  quae  in  Italica  resoluta,  quinquaginta  septeni 
dabunt,  latitudine  inaequali,  alicubi  quindecim  Italica,  ali- 
cubi  angustior.  ilia  longe  ab  Orcadibus  in  occasum  porrecta, 
non  tamen  longe  abest  Skia  insula,  quae  fere  Continenti  adhaeret. 
ilia  omnium  in  illo  mari  ultima,  ut  non  sine  ratione  ultimae 
Thules  vocabulum  egregie  ei  quadret. 


TRANSLATION:  THULE  353 


What  follows  is  a  translation  into  English  of 
the  Latin  Account  of  Thule. 

The  Preface  contains  some  remarks  regard- 
ing this  Account. 

A  DISSERTATION  on  the  ISLAND  of  THULE. 

Thule,  celebrated  in  the  verses  of  poets,  and  also  in  the  narratives  of 
historians,  is  at  the  present  day,  with  all  the  brilliant  light  of  letters 
and  all  the  advance  of  intelligence,  still  unknown  and  concealed ;  and 
certainly  had  not  Ptolemy  pointed  with  his  finger  hither  it  would  remain 
concealed.  Since  it  was  either  a  portion  or  an  appendage  of  the  British 
world,  it  is  not  surprising  that  foreigners  cared  little  for  it,  but  it  would 
have  surely  not  escaped  the  shrewd  intellect  of  Camden  if  he  had  turned 
his  thoughts  in  this  direction  ;  but  perhaps  those  legitimate  aids  to  his 
subject  that  are  outside  of  the  map  were  wanting  to  him.  He  had  not 
yet  seen  all  the  islands  that  surround  our  kingdom  delineated  in  their 
natural  position,  for  all  these  works  are  recent.  Some  later  writers, 
who  have  attempted  to  rescue  it  from  darkness,  have  thought  that 
Shetland  or  the  Shetland  Isles  were  the  Thule  of  the  ancients,  con- 
vinced by  the  fact  that  those  islands  are  the  most  distant  in  our  world. 
For  no  such  thought  occurred  to  any  one  about  Iceland.  But  it  is  idle 
to  think  that  the  Romans  saw  the  Shetland  Isles  or  ever  reached  them 
in  ships.  The  fleet  of  Claudius  first  discovered  the  Orkneys,  which  the 
flattery  of  poets  represents  him  to  have  subdued.  It  would  not  have 
been  a  matter  of  much  difficulty  to  subdue  all  those  islands,  where  there 
was  no  reward  of  victory  but  fame,  which  that  emperor  pursued  in  his 
hasty  expedition  into  Britain  and  abundantly  secured.  Afterwards  the 
fleet  of  Julius^  Agricola,  sailing  round  the  island,  discovered  more 
islands  on  the  west ;  but  they  despised  all  those,  as  they  did  the  Orkneys 
and  the  northern  parts  of  our  kingdom,  and  neglected  them  as  useless 
to  themselves.  Those  navigators,  skirting  the  coast  as  they  sailed 
round  it,  owing  to  fear  of  the  immense  and  dangerous  ocean,  contented 
themselves  with  viewing  the  shores  or  the  places  near  the  shore ;  nor 
is  this  surprising  since  even  now  those  seas,  while  free  from  any  ice, 
are  not  always  navigable,  being  of  ill  repute  with  winds,  storms,  and 
eddying  tides.  That  frith  which  lies  between  Scotland  and  the  Orkneys, 

VOL.  ii.  z 


354  TRANSLATION  :  THULE 

called  the  Pictish  [Pentland]  Frith,  is  not  easy  to  cross  for  those 
ignorant  of  it,  and  not  having  a  skilful  pilot.  What  then  are  we  to 
expect  about  a  Roman  voyage  to  Shetland  for  the  discovery  of  Thule 
there?  That  land  is  also  composed  of  a  group  of  many  islands,  while 
we  know  Thule  as  the  name  of  one  island,  which  the  Romans  knew  not 
from  hearsay  but  by  sight.  There  is  an  island,  which  is  sometimes 
visited  among  the  Shetlands,  evidently  one  of  those  that  lie  farthest 
to  the  north.  It  is  very  small,  and  is  more  truly  a  rock  than  an  island. 
Its  name  is  Fula,  and  some,  misled  by  the  similarity  of  the  name,  have 
sought  Thule  here.  Some  have  represented  the  island  of  Fair-yle,  that 
is,  beautiful  isle,  situated  in  the  open  sea,  mid-way  between  Shetland 
and  the  Orkneys,  as  Thule.  But  that  island  does  not  at  all  square  with 
Ptolemy's  description,  since  he  exhibits  Thule  to  us  not  as  small,  like 
Fair-yle,  but  as  remarkable  for  its  size.  Its  diameter  and  four  sides  he 
marks  in  express  numbers.  Therefore  it  must  be  sought  elsewhere,  and 
must  be  such  as  Roman  fleets  ventured  to  approach.  It  must  be  not  far 
from  the  mainland,  and  must  be  one  that  would  correspond  in  its  size  to 
his  numbers  in  some  measure. 

If  then  any  one  place  Ptolemy's  map  before  his  eyes,  carefully 
marked  according  to  the  geographer's  numbers,  then  change  the 
cardinal  points,  and  imagine  those  parts  which  he  has  on  the  right,  as 
being  easterly,  to  be  north,  as  they  really  are,  so  that  what  he  has 
marked  in  his  whole  map  as  north  may  be  considered  as  west,  a  just 
delineation  of  our  whole  kingdom  will  be  obtained,  which  will  not  differ 
from  the  modern  situation  of  the  regions.  That  great  man,  being  ill 
instructed  in  the  position  of  the  Orkneys,  placed  them  to  the  west, 
beyond  their  natural  position,  and,  of  three  capes,  he  marked  the  one  that 
inclines  farthest  west  with  the  name  of  Orcas  [Orkney],  which  is  now 
called  Farro  or  Farrohead  [Cape  Wrath].  When  we  find  the  Orkneys, 
about  which  there  is  no  doubt,  Thule  must  be  investigated  according 
to  Ptolemy,  for  no  one  except  him  alone  has  told  us  anything  about 
the  island  save  the  bare  name.  Now  if  we  follow  him  as  our  guide, 
turning  his  map,  as  I  have  said,  or  changing  the  directions,  we  must 
try  the  west,  where  first  we  meet  by  far  the  largest  island  of  all  that 
lie  scattered  in  that  sea,  called  Leogus  by  Buchanan,  while  others  name 
it  Levissa,  commonly  Lewis.  Its  southern  part,  united  to  the  rest  of 
the  island  by  a  narrow  isthmus,  has  the  name  of  Haray  [Harris].  This 
island  extends  in  length  forty-six  Scots  miles,  which  being  reduced  to 
Italian  miles  will  give  forty-seven.  It  is  of  unequal  breadth,  being  in 
some  parts  fifteen  Italian  miles,  and  in  some  narrower.  It  lies  a  long 
way  to  the  west  of  the  Orkneys,  but  is  not  far  from  the  Isle  of  Skye, 
which  almost  adjoins  the  mainland.  That  island  is  the  most  remote 
in  that  sea,  so  that,  not  without  reason,  the  expression  Ultima  Thule 
corresponds  with  it  remarkably  well. 


MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND  355 


ADNOTATA  AD  TABULAM  VETERIS  SCOTIA. 

Terras,  flumina,  maria,  aut  exiguum  aut  nihil  mutare  situm 
in  comperto  est,  unde  quanquam  nominibus  varietur,  quae 
mutationes  aut  transmigrationes  populorum  ad  suum  sermonem 
accomodant,  tamen  ilia  immutabilis  rerum  facies,  ad  anti- 
quorum  et  recentiorum  locorum  investigandas  differentias, 
quaec^  conveniant  quae  non  item,  quasi  manu  ducunt.  Com-  336. 
paraturi  igitur  hodiernum  regionis  nostrae  situm  cum  illo 
quern  prioribus  saeculis  habuit,  exactam  hodiernse  tabulam, 
Ptolomaicam  item  oculis  subjecimus.  ille  enim  solus  Romanis 
temporibus  plus  omnibus  praestitit,  nisi  eo  duce  omnis  labor 
in  vanum  cecidisset.  Adjunxi  etiam  quae  ex  historicis  nostris 
nancisci  potui  ad  hanc  rem  necessaria.  sane  omnia  haec  mul- 
tum  imperfecta,  cum  maxima  regni  hujus  pars  extra  Romanum 
orbem  posita  sit,  et  nostri  historici  plus  satis  harum  rerum 
incuriosi.  Regiones  regionibus  aptare,  non  est  arduae  operae, 
at  in  urbibus  et  oppidis,  quae  sane  pauca  sunt,  difficilior  investi- 
gatio  est,  et  si  in  quibusdam  ab  aliis  dissentiendum  erit,  venia 
opus  erit,  cum  ad  veritatis  normam  collineam,  quam  si  non  in 
omnibus  assequar,  aut  vera  aut  verosimilia  sectabor. 

Incipiendo  igitur  a  limite  nostro  maxime  australi,  et  ad 
mare  Vergivium  spectante,  hoc  aestuarium  nos  ab  Anglis 
dividit  secundum  littus,  hodie  Solway  fyrth.  ubi  hodie 
regiunculae  Liddisdail,  Eskdail,  Eusdail,  Wachopdail,  Nithes- 
dail,  a  fluminibus  quibus  irrigantur  nomina  sortitae.  Romanis 
temporibus  Selgovae  ea  loca  tenuerunt.  Nith  fluvius  anti- 
quorum  Novio  satis  quadrat ;  oppida  vetera  censebantur  Oxel- 
ium,  Carbantorigum,  Trirnontium.  hodie  in  eo  tractu  sunt, 
Annand,  Dumfreis,  Loch  Maban,  quorum  nullum  videtur 
recens,  sed  ea  nominibus  veteribus  aptare  non  est  mei  ingenii. 

Magis  ad  occasum  in  eadem  ora  fuere  Novantae  complexes 
Chersonesum  insignem,  quae  hodie  the  Mul  of  Galloway  agnos- 
citur.  Deva  fluvius  hodie  fere  nomen  retinet,  et  Dee  appella- 
tur.  vetus  oppidum  Ptolomeo  Lucopibium,  ubi  doctissimus  337. 
Cambdenus  reponit  apposite  sane,  Leucicidium,  hodie  Whytt- 
ern,  latine  Candida  casa,  et  multa  in  Ptolomei  exemplaribus 
graecis,  luxata  esse  tarn  in  numeris  quam  nominibus  certum 


356  MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND 

est  couferenti  exemplaria  ejus  cum  Antonini  itinerario,  unde 
nobis  audacia  quaedam,  non  sine  ratione,  variandi.  Jena 
aestuarium,  hodie  Wigton  bay,  paulo  ulterius,  Rerigonius 
sinus,  nunc  the  bay  of  Glenluce.  ex  ad  versa  Chersonesi  parte, 
alter  sinus,  Ptol.  Vidogara  aestufarium]  hodie  Lochryan.  quae 
vetera  nomina  clarorum  sinuum  doctissimus  Geo.  Buchananus 
contendit  mutari  debere,  ut  veteri  nomenclature  respondeatur 
cui  non  obluctor  nisi  refragetur  Rerigonii  oppidi  nomen  ad 
ilium  sinum  positi,  ubi  est,  aut  haud  longe  hodie  abest,  Glenluce 
urbecula,  cum  crenobio  olim  celebri. 

Jam  praetervectis  Chersonesum  et  Promontorium  Novantum 
populorum,  aperit  se  Glottse  aestuarium,  non  multum  a  veteri 
nomine  degenerans,  vocatur  enirn  the  fyrth  of  Clyd.  fretum 
autem  vel  magnum  sinum  nostri  a  fyrth  vocant.  ad  ejus  orani 
orientalem  Novantae  itidem  colebant,  ubi  hodie  regio  Carrick. 
et  intimum  ejus  secessum  Damnii  tenuere,  ubi  hodie  Kylle, 
Cuninghame,  Renfrew ;  imo  tractus  Glotta  fluminis  hodie 
Clydsdaill  eorum  agri  pars  videtur  fuisse,  nam  Cozia,  ubi 
hodie  Ruglan,  notatur  et  Colonia,  ubi  hodie  Lanrick.  Glascua 
enim  novitia  prae  illis.  Vanduara  veterum  satis  exacte 
respondet  situi  oppidi  Ayr. 

Historic!  nostri  totam  illam  oram  quae  Gallovidiae  nomen 

adhuc  habet  Brigantes  antea  tenuisse  referunt.     Doctissimus 

D.  Buchananus  videtur  universam  oram  ab  Ituna  ad  Cherso- 

338.  nesum  iis  tribuere.    illi  auctoritate.  ille  rationibus  pugnat,  nec^ 

libet  interponere  meum  judicium. 

Damniis  ad  ortum  proximi  fuere  Gadeni,  aut  ut  vere  vide- 
tur sentire  Cambdenus,  potius  Ladeni,  quibus  accensebatur 
universa  Lothiana  vel  ut  hodie  efFertur  Loudian,  magis  ad 
Ladenos  proximante  voce.  Alaeuna  urbs  ejus  regionis  procul 
dubio  Edimburgo  situ  respondet,  quam  urbem  autor  noster 
Damniis  attribuit,  quos  ad  utriusc^  freti  initia  habitasse 
innuit,  Sterlinensem  agrum  et  Levinise  partem  illis  attribuens. 
Lindum  urbs  apprime  quadrat  Sterlino,  at  de  Edimburgo 
Bedam  plane  siluisse  mirum  est,  cum  de  Guidi  urbe  ad  lineani 
valli  Adriani  meminerit,  nee  oblitus  Coenobii  JSbercurni,  unde 
non  longe  praetentura  ilia  capiebat  initium. 

Erat  mihi  animus  hie  subjecisse  tractum  valli  Adriani 
et  loca  praesidiaria  eidem  apposita,  quorum   vestigia 


MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND  357 

ad  hunc  diem  durant,  sed  meliore  consilio  conjeci  ea 
in  tractatum  de  praetenturis,  cui  argumento  magis 
respondent. 

Sequuntur  Ottadeni,  de  quibus  nobis  cum  erudissimo  Camb- 
deno  nonnihil  controversiae  est.  ille  ex  ratione  nominis,  eos 
adusq^  Tinam  fluvium  qui  Novo  castri  moenia  subit,  trahit, 
nullum  ejus  nominis  fluvium  nos  habere  audacter  asserens, 
cum  duos  habeamus,  unum  in  Lothiana,  cui  Hadina  antiquum 
oppidum  assidet,  qui  hand  procul  Dumbaro,  Oceanum  subit; 
ejus  situi  secundum  Ptolomeum  Alaunus  fluv.  pulchre  re- 
spondet.  Alter  in  Fifa  regione  est  ut  dicendum  nobis  est. 
Nihil  illi  opus  erat  de  Ottadinis  tantopere  solicitum  fuisse, 
cum  Maeatae,  Ptolomaeo  indicti,  loca  ilia  proxima  vallo  Seven 
tenuerint,  ut  testantur  Scriptores  antiqui.  grave  non  illi 
homini  satis  nobis  Ottadinas  abstulisse,  Vedram  fluvium 
anferre  conatur  et  Tina?  accomodare  suo,  cum  situs  magis 
Twedae  respondeat.  Etsi  leve  hoc  est,  nam  si  ille  apud  veteres 
omnia  evolvent,  quantumvis  sagax,  multi  illi  in  sua  Anglia 
exsiccabuntur  fluvii,  multi  item  nobis.  Ptolomaeus  enim  339. 
quorundam  meminit,  multos  praetermittit,  unde  non  est  anti- 
quarii  vel  loca  vel  fluvios  de  suis  alveis  dimovere.  Autor  ille 
aestuarium  Humbri,  Abus  fluvii  nomine  comprehendit,  quot 
igitur  egregia  flumina  Cambdeno  peribunt,  q  use  in  sinum  ilium 
confluunt  si  Ptolomaeo  stabitur.  At  institutum  nostrum 
sequamur.  Sequitur  Bodotria  ^Estuarium  Ptolomaeo  Boderia, 
hodie  Forth,  cujus  nominis  fluvius  initia  ejus  constituit. 

Fortham  vel  Bodotriam  transgressis  prima  occurrit  Fifa 
Venniconum  veterum  sedes,  adTai  aestuarium  porrecta,  nostris 
historicis  Othlinia  quondam  dicta ;  in  hac  alter  Ptolomaeo  Tina 
fluvius,  incolis  hodie  Edin,  adeo  vestigium  nominis  antiqui 
adhuc  durat.  qui  haud  longe  Andreapoli  mergit  se  Oceano,  ad 
cujus  ripas  autor  collocat  Orream  urbem,  ubi  hodie  Cuprae 
nomine  oppidum  est;  interius  Victoria  oppidum  autori  nostro 
memoratur  quo  loco  Falcolandia  hodie  sedet.  Sed  Damnios 
hucusc^  extendit,  unde  nulla  oppido  fraus,  situm  enim  suum 
egregie  tenet.  Taoduni  ad  Taum  nulla  mentio,  cum  recentior 
sit,  quanquam  historic!  nostri  ejus  sub  nomine  Allecti 
meminere. 

Supra  hos  in  mediterraneis  sedent  antiqui  Vacomagi,  Lelan- 


358  MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND 

nomium  sinum  qui  hodie  Lochfyn,  attingentes.  Lomandi 
autem  lacus  nulla  apud  veteres  mentio.  nam  sinum  maris  solum- 
modo  Ptolemfaeus]  memorat.  qui  igitur  diversorum  in  hac  ora 
maximus.  Britannodunum  ad  Laevini  ostia  neglectum  autori 
nostro,  non  item  Bedae  sub  Al-Cluith,  vel  Al-Cluich  nomine, 
hodie  Dunbritton.  secundum  ejus  numeros  Damniis  quoc^ 
accensendum  est,  sicut  tota  Levinia  provincia,  historicis  nostris 
Elgoniae  nomine  cognita.  Vacomagi  autem  tenuere  mediter- 
ranea  et  montium  juga  a  sinu  Lelannomio  dicto  ad  Taum,  non 
jam  aestuarium  sed  fluvium.  et,  si  Ptol.  fides,  ultra  perrexere, 
et  nonnullam  Atholiae  partem  vendicavere.  recenset  ille 
oppidum  eorum  Tamiam  quod  ubinam  sit,  dubitatur.  nisi 
Pertha  sit,  quam  recentiorem  ilia  aetate  fuisse  constat.  at 
340.  Vacomagi  mediterranea  tenent  infra  Atholiam  quidem  nonnihil 
illius  regionis  sibi  vendicantes  et  per  Grampii  montis  aspera 
juga  prope  Deam  attingentes,  ubi  fontes  duorum  insignium 
fluminum,  quibus  utrisc^  Eskae  nomen :  quae  vox  aquam  signi- 
ficat,  quanquam  non  secundum  linguae  nativam  pronuntia- 
tionem  efferatur.  Supra  Vacomagos  et  illi  ad  occasum 
aestivum  statuuntur  Caledonii,  qui  lacum  unde  effluit  Taus 
accolunt.  Maxima  Atholiae  pars,  universa  ilia  regio  quae 
hodie  sub  nomine  Braid  Allaban,  iis  accensetur,  cum  parte 
aliqua  tractus  Tai  fluminis,  nam  oppidum  eorum  Duncalden 
ad  ripam  ejus  fluminis,  ut  notat  doctissimus  Geo.  Buchananus 
vestigia  nominis  antiqui  retinet. 

Sequuntur  Epidii  humilis  Chersonesi  incolae,  quae  mine 
Cantyr,  sonat  ea  vox  caput  terrae,  eorumq^  promon  tori  urn 
alterum  latus  aestuarii  Glottae  concludens,  male  autori  nostro 
cognita,  sicut  tota  haec  occidua  ora,  ac  satis  est  hie  novisse  qui 
populi,  quae  loca  tenuerint.  At  Cerones  populi  tenuere  post 
Caledonios  quaecunq^  Argatheliae  nomine  censentur,  etiam 
plura,  nam  in  hunc  censum  venit  Covallia  Cowell,  Cnap-dalia, 
Lorna,  et  caetera  adusc^  sinum  ilium,  Lochabriae  ab  ea  parte 
limitem.  nominat  in  hoc  littore  Longum  fluvium,  qui  mihi 
transpositus  videtur;  nullus  in  illo  tractu  quantivis  pretii 
fluvius,  at  in  recessu  aestuarii  Glottae,  sinus  ejus  nominis 
angustus  et  longus,  ad  quod  nomen  illud  nomen  potius  spectare 
videtur. 

Legendo    adhuc    littus    illud    occiduum,    primi    occurrunt 


MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND  359 

Creones  quas  sedes  liodie  tenent  varii  Dinastae  suis  terri- 
toriolis  et  barbaris  regiuncularum  nominibus  distincti,  quae 
vix  latiali  ore  efferri  queunt :  Ardgaur,  Keangher-loch, 
Moroern,  Ard-na-Murchen,  Swyneord,  Muydeort,  Arisaig, 
Murron,  Knodeort,  Glen-Elg,  Kintail  et  ipsa  Lochabria, 
quae  vel  quantitate  vel  qualitate  praevalet  omnibus.  Hym 
fluvium  in  hoc  tractu  locat  autor  noster,  qui  Cerones  et 
Creones  dividit.  Apposite  ad  hanc  rem  se  offert  Lochus 
ingens  fluvius  qui  per  Lochabriam  fluens  e  lacu  sui  nominis 
effluens  multis  amnibus  auctus,  quorum  duo  e  magnis  item  341. 
lacubus  delabuntur,  in  canalem  vel  angustum  sinum  desinit  qui 
hodie  Lochyell  agnoscitur  nomine. 

Sequuntur  in  ora  Carnanacae,  ubi  terras  irrumpit  sinus 
Volsas  dictus,  hodie  lacus  Briennae  nomine  satis  notus,  atc^ 
liaec  orae  pars,  Rossiae  accensetur,  quae  provincia  mare  attingit. 
Rabeus  fluvius  hodie  Tralliger  in  Oceanum  exit.  Terra  haec 
sterilis,  inculta,  nomen  hodie  Assynt  et  Edir-da-Cheuls  habet. 
cujus  extimum  promontorium,  extra  omnem  controversiam, 
autoris  nostri  Orcadi  promontorio  respondet. 

Ab  hoc  promontorio,  cui  Tarvedro  et  Orcadi  antiquum 
nomen,  littus  reflectitur  in  ortum,  ad  alterum  itidem  cui 
Veruvium  apud  autorem  nostrum  nomen  est,  hodie  Duns-Bey 
head,  cui  objacent  Orcades,  freto  navigantibus  periculoso 
paucorum  millium  interjecto.  Inter  haec  duo  proxime  dicta, 
paulum  eminet  tertium  Ptolom.  Virvedrum,  hodie  incolis  Row 
Rachy  et  Strathy  head.  Interiora  tenuerunt  Carini,  Cornavii, 
Mertae,  ubi  Ileas  fluvius,  hodie  Helmdail.  Regiones  hae  Strath 
Naverniam  et  Cathenesiam  hodie  comprehendunt,  ubi  antiqua 
arx  Gernica,  (cujus  nomen  nunc  in  castel  Sinclair  nmtatum) 
vestigia  Cornaviorum  retinuisse  videtur. 

Sequitur  apud  Ptol.  oppidum  Ripae  Altae,  cujus  nullum 
hodie  indicium,  imo  nullum  tale  unquam  fuisse  ibi  locorum 
justa  suspitio,  sicut  nec^  Loxae  fluminis  in  his  oris,  quae  in 
Moravia  hodie  ad  Elginam  urbem  nomen  vetus  tuetur,  nulla 
litera  immutata.  Uncle  videntur  non  suis  locis  aptata,  quod 
vero  Boethius  Ripam  altam,  ad  Cromarty  transfert.  ilia  enim 
longe  hinc  ad  austrum  jacet,  freto  sui  nominis  adposita;  Logi 
respondere  videntur  Sutherlandiae,  quam  Ileas  flumen,  et  mons 
ingens  in  mare  procurrens  hodie  Ord  dictus  a  Cathanesia  dividit. 


360  MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND 

342.  Proximi    Cantae    ea    loca    tenuere,    quae    Rossiae    partem 
orientalera    constituunt,   adusq^    Vararis     aestuarium.       Vara 
fluvius   hodie   id   ipsuni   nomen    retinens,  in   intimum    sinum 
effunditur,  unde  verosimile  est  sinui  nomen  factum,  qua?  vox 
nunc  latius  diffusa,  hodie  toto  illi  ingenti  sinui  qui  a  Veruvio 
Promentor :    ad  Taezalum  Prom  :    de  quo  mox,  sub  nomine 
Murray-firth  nomen  dedit. 

Proximi  et  nobis  nunc  ultimi  Taezali  populi,  a  dicti  Vararis 
initio  ad  Deam  extensi.  ingens  terrarum  tractus,  multis  populis 
habitatus.  illic  hodie  Moravia,  Ainia,  Boena,  Buchania, 
Mama,  praeter  monticolas  in  mediterraneis  habitantes.  Magna 
enim  illic  est  Grampiorum  montium  pars.  At  a  Varan 
sequendo  littora,  occurrunt  alata  Castra,  autoris  nostri,  quo 
loco  Narnia  urbecula  est,  olim  majoris  famae,  ubere  circum 
terra,  quam  ut  plurimum  mare  aggestis  arenis  hausit.  manent 
vestigia  in  littore  celeberrimae  olim  illius  arcis,  sed  nunc 
accessu  maris  sepulta.  Proxima  huic  in  littore  Tuesis  urbs  et 
Tuesis  aestuarium,  urbecula?  sane  Forres  situi  respondet,  sed 
nullum  aestuarium,  nullus  littoris  recessus,  qui  vel  fuisse 
arguat.  Unde  conjicere  licet  vel  aestuarium  delendum  ex 
exemplar!,  quod  minquam  fuit,  vel  urbeculam  hanc  ad 
Cromartie  in  adversa  ora  ablegandam  ubi  sinus  egregius, 
capacissimus,  navibus  tutissimus,  quo  tanquam  ad  anchoram 
sacram,  adversis  rebus  in  tota  hsec  ora,  fuga  nautarum  est, 
qui  scopuloso  littore  servat  priorum  saeculorum  faciem.  Alter 
sinus  longius  in  terras  seinfundens  qui  Sutherlandiam  a  Rossia, 
id  est  Logos  a  Cantis  [sic]  importuosus  et  navibus  infidus. 
Spea  deinde  fluvius  toto  regno  a  Tao  secundus  Ptol.  ignotus 
sequitur.  At  Celnius  ejus  fluvius  apprime  respondet  Dovernae 
fluvio,  qui  Banfiam  urbeculam  veteribus  ignotam  alluit.  Ab 
hoc  flumine,  ubi  littus  paucis  milliaribus  in  ortum  processerit, 
reflectitur  in  Meridiem,  ad  quern  reflexum  cernitur  Taezalum 

343.  promontorium,  hodie  nomine  Btichanness  notissimum,  quo  loco 
terra  quam  maxime  in  orientem  procurrit.     Proximus  autori 
nostro  memoratur  Diva  fluvius,  hodie  paulum  inflexo  nomine 
Dea ;  qui  Devanam  oppidum  in  mediterraneis  collocat,  quam 
ego  conjectura  nominis  ductus,  rectius  ad  Deae  ostia  collocari 
debere  existimo,  quod  hodie  Aberdoniae  nomine  agnoscitur,  a 
Dona    vicino    flumine.   earn    Geo.    Buchananus    in  veteribus 


MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND  361 

scriptis  testatur  se  reperisse  Aberdeam,  (rectius  forsan,  quan- 
quam  aliter  prevalente  usu)  appellatam;  ad  utmnq^  fluvium 
oppida  sunt,  mille  passuum  ab  invicem  intervallo.  bane  ad 
Deam  Gregorius  Rex  auxit,  palatio  ibi  structo,  et  officina 
monetaria  instituta,  cujus  monetae  ego  nummos  argenteos  vidi. 
Acta  haec  sunt  circa  annum  900,  sed  oppidum  longe  vetustius 
fuisse  arguit  loci  celebritas  praesertim  uberrimo  salmonum 
piscatu,  e  duobus  vicinis  fluminibus,  qui  ab  omni  aevo  nun- 
quam  defecit,  et  reliqua  regni  longe  vincit. 

Post  Deam  fluvium  sequitur  Mernia,  delude  Angusia,  autori 
nostro  Taezalum  pars ;  in  hac  oppidum  Montis  rosarum  vulgo 
Monros,  scriptoribus  nostris  Celurca.  illae  duae  provinciae  illis 
itidem  Horestia  dicta,  neq^  falso,  cum  Tacitus  commemoret 
Agricolam  post  victum  Galgacum,  in  Horestas  deflexisse,  quod 
videtur  fecisse,  ut  a  pugna  reficeret  exercitum  maritimis  copiis, 
nam  classis  qui  comitabatur,  videtur  turn  temporis  Taum 
subiisse. 

Ista  prascedentia  paucis  diebus  concinnata,  cum  saepe  a  me 
peterentur,  transmissa  sunt  primum  Edinburgum,  deinde  ad 
Typographum  in  Hollandiam.  sed  dum  ea  rescribo,  multo  sunt 
aucta,  mutata,  interpolata,  nec^  tamen  ea  cura  adhibita,  quam 
lucubrationes  lucem  visurae  desiderabant.  una  transmissa  est 
tabula  veteris  Scotiae  etiamcj^  Ptolomaica,  ad  assertiones  quas- 
dam  illustrandas  aut  probandas.  haec  omnia  sub  aestatem  ann. 
1649  utinamq^  libertas  ilia  tranquilli  animi  mihi  daretur, 
qualem  hae  antiquitates  desiderant,  ut  possem  omnia  sub  in- 
cudem  revocare,  multa  enim  ingenue  fateor  festinanti  excide-  344. 
runt,  quae  limam  nondum  sensere,  sed  haec  aliis  transmitto, 
cum  filiorum  amissorum  mseror  aciem  animi  obtuderit,  ne<k  in 
tanta  mea  astate,  meliorum  spes  ulla  supersit. 

Haec  scripsi  primis  diebus  mensis  Decembris  1649. 
Quae  sequuntur,  longe  antea  in  paginas  conjecta 
tumultuarie  et  sine  methodo,  ut  spuria  rejeci. 

R.  GoRDONIUS. 


TRANSLATION  :   MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND 


The  following  is  a  translation  into  English  of  the 
Latin  Description  of  the  Map  of  Old  Scotland. 
In  the  Preface  there  are  some  remarks  on 
this  Description. 

NOTES  to  the  MAP  of  OLD  SCOTLAND. 

It  is  certain  that  lands,  rivers,  and  seas  change  their  position  either  little 
or  not  at  all,  so  that  although  there  may  be  a  variation  in  the  names, 
which  the  changes  or  migrations  of  nations  adapt  to  their  own  language, 
yet  that  immutable  face  of  nature,  and  the  noting  of  what  is  consistent 
therewith  and  what  is  otherwise,  lead  us,  as  it  were,  by  the  hand  to  the 
investigation  of  the  differences  between  ancient  and  modern  places. 
When,  therefore,  we  are  about  to  compare  the  modern  situation  of  our 
country  with  that  which  it  had  in  former  ages,  we  have  placed  before  the 
eye  an  accurate  modern  map  and  also  Ptolemy's.  For  he  alone  in 
Roman  times  was  more  outstanding  than  all,  and  every  labour  would 
have  been  in  vain  unless  under  his  guidance.  I  have  also  added  the 
necessary  aids  that  1  could  find  from  our  historians.  All  this  is  no 
doubt  very  imperfect,  since  the  greatest  part  of  this  kingdom  lies  outside 
of  the  Roman  world,  and  our  historians  were  more  than  sufficiently 
careless  about  these  matters.  To  fit  district  to  district  is  not  a  difficult 
task,  but  in  the  case  of  cities  and  towns,  which  of  course  are  few,  the 
investigation  is  more  difficult.  And  if  about  some  of  them  I  shall  have 
to  differ  from  others,  indulgence  will  be  extended  to  the  work,  since  I 
direct  it  according  to  the  rule  of  truth,  to  which  if  I  do  not  attain  in  all 
points,  I  shall  be  following  either  what  is  true  or  what  is  probable. 

If  then  we  begin  at  our  most  southerly  limit,  which  looks  to  the 
Vergivian  Sea,  this  estuary,  now  the  Solway  Frith,  separates  us  from 
the  English  along  the  coast.  Here  are  now  the  small  districts  of 
Liddesdail,  Eskdail,  Eusdail,  Wachopdail,  and  Nithsdail,  deriving  their 
names  from  the  rivers  by  which  they  are  watered.  In  Roman  times 
these  localities  were  held  by  the  Selgova?.  The  river  Nith  squares 
sufficiently  with  the  Novius  of  the  ancients.  The  old  towns  enumerated 
were  Oxellum,  Carbantorigum,  and  Trimontium.  There  are  now  in  that 
tract  Annand,  Uumfreis,  and  Loch  Maban,  none  of  which  seems  recent, 
but  to  fit  them  to  ancient  names  is  beyond  my  ability. 

More  to  the  west  on  the  same  coast  were  the  Novanta?,  embracing  the 
peninsula  which  is  now  known  as  the  Mull  of  Galloway.  The  river 


TRANSLATION  :   MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND         363 

Deva  almost  retains  its  name  at  the  present  day,  and  is  called  the  Dee. 
Ptolemy's  old  town  of  Lucopibium,  where  the  most  learned  Camden  very 
appropriately  restores  Leucicidium,  is  now  Whyttern,  in  Latin  Candida 
Casa ;  and  it  is  certain  that  in  the  Greek  copies  of  Ptolemy  there  are 
many  dislocations  both  in  numbers  and  in  names,  if  one  compares  copies 
of  him  with  Antonine's  Itinerary  ;  so  that  we  make  somewhat  bold,  not 
without  reason,  to  vary  them.  The  Jena  estuary  is  now  Wigtown  Bay, 
and  a  little  further  on  is  Rerigonius  sinus,  now  the  Bay  of  Glenluce. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  peninsula  there  is  another  bay,  Ptolemy's 
Vidogara  ffistuarium,  now  Lochryan.  These  old  names  of  \vell-known 
bays,  the  most  learned  Geo.1  Buchanan  holds,  ought  to  be  exchanged, 
so  as  to  correspond  with  the  old  nomenclature.  To  this  I  have  no- 
objection,  only  that  opposed  to  this  view  is  the  name  of  the  town  of 
llerigonium  situated  on  that  bay,  where,  or  not  far  off,  is  now  the  small 
town  of  Glenluce,  with  a  once  famous  monastery. 

Now  when  we  have  sailed  past  the  peninsula  and  the  cape  of  the 
nations  of  the  Novantes,  the  Glottse  sestuarium  opens  out,  not  much 
corrupted  from  the  old  name,  for  it  is  called  the  Frith  of  Clyde.  Our 
countrymen  give  the  name  of  frith  to  a  strait  or  a  large  bay.  The 
Novantae  likewise  dwelt  on  its  eastern  coast,  where  now  is  the  district  of 
Carrick,  and  its  inmost  reach  was  held  by  the  Damnii,  where  now  are 
Kyle,  Cuninghame,  and  Renfrew.  Even  the  basin  of  the  river  Clyde, 
now  called  Clydesdail,  appears  to  have  been  part  of  their  territory. 
Cozia,  where  Ruglan  is  now  situated,  and  Colonia,  where  now  is  Lanrick, 
are  marked.  For  Glasgow  is  recent  compared  with  them.  The  Vanduara 
of  the  ancients  corresponds  pretty  accurately  with  the  position  of  the 
town  of  Ayr.  Our  historians  state  that  the  whole  of  the  coast  which 
still  has  the  name  of  Galloway  was  formerly  held  by  the  Brigantes.  The 
most  learned  D.  Buchanan  seems  to  assign  to  them  the  entire  coast 
from  Ituna  [on  the  Sol  way]  to  the  peninsula.  They  uphold  their  con- 
tention by  authorities,  and  he  by  reasoning,  nor  am  1  inclined  to  inter- 
pose my  judgment. 

Nearest  to  the  Damnii  towards  the  east  were  the  Gadeni,  or  rather,  as 
Camden  appears  to  be  right  in  thinking,  the  Ladeni,  to  whom  was 
ascribed  the  whole  of  Lothian,  or  as  it  is  now  pronounced  Loudian, 
with  a  sound  approximating  more  nearly  to  Ladeni.  The  city  of  Alaeuna 
without  doubt  corresponds  in  position  with  Edinburgh.  This  city  our 
author  assigns  to  the  Damnii,  who,  he  indicates,  dwelt  at  the  heads  of 
both  friths,  giving  them  the  territory  of  Stirling  and  a  part  of  the 
Lennox.  The  city  of  Lindum  squares  very  well  with  Stirling,  but  it  is 
strange  that  Bede  is  altogether  silent  about  Edinburgh,  though  he 
mentions  the  city  of  Guidi  on  the  line  of  Adrian's  wall,  and  does  not 
forget  the  monastery  of  Abercorn,  not  far  from  which  the  famous  de- 
fensive line  began. 

(It  was  my  intention  to  have  here  treated  of  the  course  of  Adrian's  wall, 

1  David  Buchanan  is  probably  meant. — ED. 


364         TRANSLATION:   MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND 

and  the  garrison  posts  situated  at  the  same,  of  which  traces  remain  to 
this  day,  but  thinking  better  of  it,  1  have  thrown  those  matters  into  the 
tract  about  the  Defensive  Lines,  to  whose  subject  they  are  more 
appropriate. ) 

They  are  followed  by  the  Ottadeni,  regarding  whom  we  have  some 
dispute  with  the  most  erudite  Camden.  He.  judging  from  the  name, 
takes  them  even  to  the  river  Tyne  which  passes  the  walls  of  Newcastle, 
boldly  asserting  that  we  have  no  river  of  that  name,  whereas  we  have 
two,  one  in  Lothian,  on  which  the  ancient  town  of  Hadiua  [Haddington] 
i*  situated,  and  which  enters  the  sea  not  far  from  Dunbar  :  the  river 
Alauuus  in  Ptolemy  corresponds  nicely  with  its  position.  The  second  is 
in  the  county  of  Fife,  as  we  have  to  tell.  He  did  not  require  to  be  so 
anxious  about  the  Ottadeni.  since  the  Mzeatae,  not  mentioned  by  Ptolemy, 
held  the  localities  nearest  the  wall  of  Severus,  as  ancient  writers  testify. 
Jt  was  not  serious  enough  for  that  man  to  have  taken  the  Ottadeni  away 
from  us  :  he  tries  to  take  the  river  Vedra  and  to  suit  it  to  his  own  Tyne, 
though  its  position  answers  better  to  the  Tweed.  And  yet  this  is  a 
small  matter,  for  if  he  clears  away  everything  in  ancient  authors,  shrewd 
as  he  is,  many  rivers  will  be  dried  up  for  him  in  his  own  England,  and 
many  likewise  for  us.  For  Ptolemy  mentions  some  and  omits  many,  so 
that  it  does  not  appertain  to  the  Antiquary  to  remove  either  places  or 
rivers  from  their  beds.  The  former  author  embraces  the  estuary  of  the 
H umber  under  the  name  of  the  river  Abus.  How  many  noble  riven- 
which  flow  into  that  bay  will  therefore  go  out  of  existence,  according  to 
Camden,  if  we  stand  by  Ptolemy  1  But  let  us  follow  our  subject.  Next 
comes  the  Bodotria  aestuarium,  in  Ptolemy  Boderio,  now  the  Forth,  the 
head  of  which  is  formed  by  the  river  of  the  same  name. 

After  we  cross  the  Forth,  or  Bodotria,  we  first  come  to  Fife,  the  country 
of  the  ancient  Vennicones.  extending  to  the  Frith  of  Tay.  and  formerly 
called  Othliiiia  by  our  historians.  In  this  district  is  the  second  Tyne  of 
Ptolemy,  the  Edin  of  the  inhabitants,  so  distinctly  does  a  trace  of  the 
ancient  name  still  remain.  It  falls  into  the  sea  not  far  from  St  Andrew--. 
and  on  its  banks  the  author  places  the  city  of  Orrea.  where  now  there 
is  a  town  called  Cupar.  Further  inland  the  town  of  Victoria  is  men- 
tioned by  our  author,  in  the  locality  where  at  the  present  day  Falkland 
is  situated.  But  he  makes  the  Daniuii  come  thus  far.  by  which  he  d> 
injury  to  the  claims  of  the  town,  for  it  keeps  its  position  with  remarkable 
exactness.  There  is  no  reference  to  Taodunum  [Dundee],  since  it  is 
more  recent,  although  our  historians  mention  it  under  the  name  of 
Allectum. 

Above  those  peoples,  in  the  inland  parts,  are  settled  the  ancient 
Vacomagi  bordering  on  the  Lelannomius  Sinus,  which  is  now  Lochfyn. 
Of  Loch  Lomond  there  is  no  mention  in  ancient  writer?.  For  Ptolemy 
marks  only  the  arm  of  the  sea.  It  is  then  the  largest  of  various  bays  on 
this  coast.  Britannodunum  at  the  mouth  of  the  Leven  is  omitted  by 
our  author,  but  not  so  by  Bede,  under  the  name  of  Alcluith  or  Alcluich. 


TRANSLATION-:   MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND        365 

now  Dunbritton.  According-  to  his  numbers  it  must  be  put  down  to  the 
Damnii,  like  the  whole  shire  of  the  Lennox,  known  to  our  writers  by 
the  name  of  Elgonia.  Now  the  Vacomagi  held  the  inland  parts  and  the 
mountain  ranges  from  the  said  Lelannomian  Bay  to  the  Tay — not  yet 
the  frith  but  the  river — and  if  we  are  to  believe  Ptolemy/ they  extended 
farther  and  claimed  some  portion  of  Athol.  He  notices  their  town  of 
Tamia,  about  which  there  is  a  doubt  as  to  where  it  is,  unless  it  be  Perth. 
It  is  agreed  that  this  town  is  more  recent  than  that  age.  But  the 
Vacomagi  hold  the  inland  localities  below  Athol,  and  indeed  claim  a 
part  of  that  district,  while  they  reach  almost  to  the  Dee  across  the 
rugged  ridges  of  the  Grampian  Mountain  ;  where  are  the  springs  of  two 
notable  rivers,  each  with  the  name  of  the  Esk,  a  word  that  means 
water,  although  it  is  not  sounded  according  to  the  native  pronunciation 
of  the  language.  Above  the  Vacomagi,  and  towards  the  south-west,  are 
set  the  Caledonii,  who  dwell  by  the  loch  from  which  the  Tay  issues. 
The  greatest  part  of  Athol  and  the  whole  of  that  district  which  now 
goes  by  the  name  of  Braid  Allaban  is  put  down  to  them,  with  some 
portion  of  the  course  of  the  river  Tay,  for  their  town  of  Duncalden 
[Dunkeld],  on  the  bank  of  that  river,  preserves  traces  of  the  ancient 
name,  as  the  most  learned  George  Buchanan  remarks. 

Then  follow  the  Epidii,  the  inhabitants  of  the  low  peninsula  that  is 
now  Cantyr  (that  word  means  the  head  of  the  land),  and  their  Cape, 
bounding  one  side  of  the  Frith  of  Clyde.  Like  the  whole  of  this 
west  coast,  it  was  ill  known  to  our  author,  and  it  is  sufficient  here  to 
know  what  the  tribes  were  and  what  localities  they  held.  The  tribes  of 
the  Cerones,  next  to  the  Caledonii,  occupied  all  the  parts  that  are 
enumerated  under  the  name  of  Argyle,  and  even  more,  for  into  this 
number  come  Cowal,  Knapdale,  Lome,  and  the  rest  as  far  as  that 
bay  [Frith  of  Lome],  which  is  the  limit  of  Lochaber  in  that  direction. 
On  this  coast  he  names  the  river  Long,  which  appears  to  me  out  of 
place.  There  is  no  river  of  the  smallest  size  in  that  tract,  but  in  a  far- 
withdrawing  portion  of  the  Firth  of  Clyde  there  is  a  long  and  narrow 
inlet  to  whose  name  that  designation  seems  to  point. 

In  still  skirting  that  west  coast  we  first  meet  the  Creones,  whose 
settlements  are  at  the  present  day  held  by  various  chiefs  distinguished 
by  their  small  strips  of  territory  and  the  barbarous  names  of  their  little 
districts,  which  can  hardly  be  pronounced  by  Latin  lips :  Ardgaur, 
Keaiiirherloch,  Moroern  [Morvern],  Ardnamurchen,  Swyneord  [Sunart], 
Muydeort,  Arisaig,  Murron  [Morar],  Knodeort,  Glenelg,  Kintail,  and 
Lochaber  itself,  which  both  in  extent  and  in  productiveness  surpasses 
them  all.  In  this  tract  our  author  places  the  river  Hym,  which 
separates  the  Cerones  from  the  Creones.  Suitably  to  this  the  large 
river  Lochy  presents  itself.  Issuing  from  a  loch  of  its  own  name,  and 
flowing  through  Lochaber,  it  is  augmented  by  many  tributaries,  two  of 
which  rise  in  large  lochs,  and  it  ends  in  the  channel  or  narrow  inlet 
that  is  now  known  as  Lochyell  [Lochiel]. 


366         TRANSLATION  :   MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND 

Next  on  the  coast  come  the  Carnanaca?,  where  the  arm  of  the  sea 
called  Volsas,  now  well  known  by  the  name  of  Loch  Brienn  [Loch 
Broom,  Gaelic  Loch  Braoin]  breaks  into  the  land ;  and  this  part  of 
the  coast  is  reckoned  in  Ross,  a  shire  that  touches  the  sea.  The  river 
Rabeus,  now  the  Tralliger  [Traligill],  falls  into  the  ocean.  This  barren, 
uncultivated  country  is  now  called  Assynt  and  Edir-da-Cheuls.  Its 
outermost  cape,  beyond  all  doubt  corresponds  to  the  Orcas  promon- 
torium  of  our  author. 

From  this  cape,  which  was  anciently  called  Tarvedrum  and  Orcas,  the 
coast  bends  eastward  to  another  likewise,  whose  name  in  our  author  is 
Veruvium,  now  Dunsbey  Head.  Opposite  to  this  are  the  Orkneys, 
with  a  strait  intervening  a  few  miles  wide,  and  dangerous  to  sailors. 
Between  these  two  last-mentioned  capes  a  third,  Ptolemy's  Virvedrum, 
is  conspicuous.  It  is  now  called  Row  Rachy  or  Strathy  Head  by  the 
inhabitants.  The  Carini,  the  Cornavii,  and  the  Mertse,  where  the  river 
Ileas,  now  the  Helmdail,  flows,  occupy  the  inland  parts.  These  districts 
comprise  at  the  present  day  Strathnaver  and  Caithness,  where  the  ancient 
Arx  Gernica  (whose  name  is  now  changed  to  Castle  Sinclair)  seems  to 
preserved  traces  of  the  Cornavii. 

Next,  according  to  Ptolemy,  comes  the  town  of  Ripa  Alta,  of  which 
there  is  now  no  sign,  nay,  there  is  a  well-founded  suspicion  that  there 
never  was  any  town  in  that  locality,  and  also  that  on  these  coasts  there 
was  no  river  Loxa,  which  preserves  its  old  name  in  modern  times  at  the 
city  of  Elgin  in  Moray,  without  the  change  of  a  single  letter ;  so  that 
they  seem  not  to  be  fitted  to  their  positions,  even  though  Boece  transfers 
Ripa  Alta  to  Cromarty.  For  that  town  lies  far  to  the  south  of  this, 
being  situated  on  the  frith  of  its  own  name.  The  Logi  seem  to  corre- 
spond to  Sutherland,  which  the  river  Ileas  and  the  lofty  mountain 
that  runs  out  into  the  sea,  and  is  now  called  the  Ord,  separates  from 
Caithness. 

Next,  the  Cantae  held  those  localities  which  form  the  eastern  part  of 
Ross  as  far  as  the  Yarar  estuary.  The  river  Vara  [Farrar],  preserving 
that  very  name  at  the  present  time,  flows  into  the  innermost  part  of  the 
bay,  whence  it  is  probable  that  the  name  of  the  opening  arose.  This 
word,  coming  to  be  used  in  a  wider  signification,  gave  its  name  to  the 
whole  of  that  great  bay  which  extends  in  width  from  Duncansby  Head 
to  Buchanness,  and  about  which  we  shall  presently  speak  under  the 
name  of  the  Moray  Frith. 

The  next,  and  for  us  at  present,  the  last  nations  are  the  Twzali, 
stretching  from  the  commencement  of  the  said  Varar  to  the  Dee,  over  a 
vast  tract  of  land  inhabited  by  many  tribes.  There  the  modern  Moray, 
Enzie,  Boyne,  Buchan,  and  Mar  are  situated,  besides  the  mountaineers 
dwelling  in  the  inland  parts.  For  a  great  portion  of  the  Grampian 
Mountains  is  there.  But  in  following  the  shores  from  the  Moray  Frith, 
we  come  to  the  Winged  Camp  of  our  author,  in  the  locality  of  the 
small  town  of  Nairn,  formerly  of  great  repute  for  the  fertile  land 


TRANSLATION:  MAP  OF  OLD  SCOTLAND         367 

surrounding1  it,  which  for  the  most  part  the  sea  has  destroyed  with 
accumulations  of  sand.  On  the  shore  traces  remain  of  its  celebrated 
castle  of  old,  but  it  is  now  buried  by  the  inroads  of  the  sea.  Next  to 
this  on  the  coast  the  town  of  Tuesis,  with  the  estuary  of  Tuesis,  answers 
well  to  the  site  of  the  small  town  of  Forres,  but  there  is  no  estuary,  and 
no  indentation  of  the  coast  to  show  that  there  even  was  one  ;  so  that  we 
may  conjecture  that  either  the  estuary  must  be  deleted  from  the  copy, 
because  it  never  existed,  or  that  the  small  town  must  be  relegated  to 
Cromarty,  where  there  is  a  fine  inlet,  very  capacious  and  safe  for  ships, 
to  which,  as  to  a  sacred  anchorage,  in  stress  of  weather  the  sailors  from 
all  parts  of  the  coast  run  for  shelter,  and  which  with  its  rock-bound 
shore  preserves  the  appearance  of  former  ages.  Another  inlet  stretch- 
ing farther  into  the  land,  and  [separating]  Sutherland  from  Ross, 
that  is,  the  Logi  from  the  Cantae,  is  harbourless  and  treacherous  for 
shipping.  Then  follows  the  river  Spey,  second  to  the  Tay  in  the  whole 
kingdom,  though  unknown  to  Ptolemy.  But  his  i-iver  Celnius  corre- 
sponds exactly  to  the  river  Deveron,  which  washes  the  small  town  of 
Banff,  unknown  to  the  ancients.  When  the  shore  has  stretched  a  few 
miles  eastward  from  this  river,  it  bends  to  the  south,  and  at  the  bend  is 
seen  the  Tsezalum  promontorium,  the  very  well-known  Buchanness,  at 
which  point  the  land  runs  farthest  to  the  east.  Our  author  next 
mentions  the  river  Diva,  now  the  Dee  with  its  name  slightly  changed. 
Inland  he  places  the  town  of  Devana,  which  I  am  led  by  a  conjecture 
from  the  name  to  think  should  be  more  properly  placed  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Dee,  because  that  is  now  known  by  the  name  of  Aberdeen,  derived 
from  the  neighbouring  river  Don.  George  Buchanan  testifies  that  in 
ancient  writings  he  found  it  called  Aberdea  (perhaps  more  correctly, 
though  the  prevailing  usage  is  otherwise).  There  are  towns  on  either 
river,  distant  a  mile  from  each  other.  The  one  on  the  Dee  was  enlarged 
by  King  Gregory,  a  palace  being  built  there,  and  a  mint  founded,  of 
whose  coinage  I  have  seen  silver  pieces.  These  events  happened  about 
the  year  900 ;  but  the  town  is  proved  to  have  been  much  older  by  the 
celebrity  of  the  place,  especially  owing  to  its  highly  productive  salmon 
fishery  on  the  two  neighbouring  rivers,  which  has  never  failed  in  all 
time,  and  far  surpasses  those  in  the  remaining  parts  of  the  kingdom. 

Mearns  comes  next  after  the  river  Dee,  and  then  Angus,  forming, 
according  to  our  author,  a  part  of  the  Tsezali.  In  it  is  the  town  of  Mons 
Rosarum,  in  common  speech  Monros  [Montrose],  and  in  our  writers 
Celurca.  Those  two  shires  are  also  called  Horestia,  not  wrongly,  since 
Tacitus  mentions  that  Agricola  after  defeating  Galgacus  turned  aside 
into  the  Horestse,  which  he  seems  to  have  done  to  reinforce  his  army 
with  maritime  troops,  for  the  fleet  that  accompanied  him  appears  to  have 
at  that  time  entered  the  Tay. 

Those  foregoing  remarks,  put  together  in  a  few  days,  as  they  were  often 
asked  from  me,  were  sent  first  to  Edinburgh,  and  then  to  the  printer  in 


368  ADRIAN'S  WALL 

Holland,  but  while  I  was  rewriting  them  they  were  much  enlarged, 
altered,  and  improved,  yet  without  such  care  being  taken  as  lucubra- 
tions meant  to  see  the  light  required.  Together  with  them  was  sent  a 
map  of  old  Scotland,  with  Ptolemy's  as  well,  to  illustrate  or  prove  certain 
statements.  All  this  was  done  in  the  beginning  of  the  summer  of  1649  ; 
and  I  wish  that  the  freedom  of  a  peaceful  mind,  as  these  antiquities 
demand,  were  given  me  in  order  that  I  might  again  put  them  all  on  the 
anvil,  for  I  candidly  confess  that  in  my  haste  much  has  fallen  from  me 
without  yet  having  received  the  finishing  touches ;  but  these  matters  I 
hand  over  to  others,  since  sorrow  for  the  loss  of  my  sons  has  blunted 
my  mental  acuteness,  and  at  my  great  age  there  is  no  hope  of  better 
things. 

I  wrote  this  in  the  first  days  of  the  month  of  December  1649.  What 
follows,  long  ago  thrown  into  pages  confusedly  and  unmethodi- 
cally, I  have  rejected  as  spurious.  II.  GORDON. 


DE  VESTIGIIS  VALLI  AGRICOL^  et 
postea  A  BRIAN  I  hsec  adnotavit  TIM. 
PONT. 

Tangit  et  initium  sumit  a  Bodotriae  aestuario,  baud  procul 
Abircorna  nunc  semidiruta  arce,  tempore  vero  Bedae,  coenobio, 
qua  Abrecorna  respicit  trajectum  qui  a  regina  nomen  habet. 
inde  tendens  in  occasum  juxta  arcem  Kinneil,  pergit  ad  locum 
Inner-ewin  dictum,  nee  longe  hide  abest  locus  praesidii,  dum 
vallum  staret  egregie  munitus,  quo  se  recipiebant  praesidiarii 
milites,  sicut  multa  alia  praesidiariorum  loca  ad  lineam  valli 
suis  ruderibus  se  hodie  monstrant.  primum  hoc  abest  a  Vario 
Sacello  hodie  Falkirk  ad  milliare  unum  ad  ortum,  ad  Lang- 
toun.  proximum  ad  Rowintree-burnhead,  ad  Wester  Cowdon 
supra  Helins  Chapell,  ad  Croyhil,  ad  Barhill,  ad  Achindevy, 
ad  Kirkintillo,  ad  East  Gaidar,  ad  Hiltoun  of  Calder,  ad 
Balmuydie,  ad  Simmertoun  in  trajectu  Kelvini  fluvii,  ad 
Carestoun,  ad  Achter-minnie,  ad  Rochhill  juxta  Westwood, 
ad  Bankyr  juxta  Castel  Carey,  ad  Dunbass. 


DEFENSIVE  LINES  OF  THE  ROMANS         369 

The  following  is  a  translation  of  Font's  Notes 
on  Adrian's  Wall. 

The    Preface    contains    Notes   on   this   item 
of  the  Collection. 

The  following  NOTES  were  made  by  TIMOTHY  PONT 
about  the  traces  of  AGRICOLA'S  and  afterwards 
ADRIAN'S  WALL. 

It  touches  and  begins  at  the  Frith  of  Forth,  not  far  from  the  now  half- 
ruined  castle,  but  in  the  time  of  Bede  the  monastery,  of  Abircorn,  where 
Abrecoru  looks  back  on  the  Passage  that  is  named  after  the  queen. 
Then  stretching  to  the  west  near  the  Castle  of  Kinrieil  it  runs  to  the 
place  called  Innerewin  [Inveravon],  and  not  far  from  thence  is  a  post 
for  a  garrison,  strongly  fortified  when  the  wall  was  standing,  to  which 
the  soldiers  engaged  in  the  defence  used  to  betake  themselves ;  as  many 
other  garrison  posts  on  the  line  of  the  wall  are  at  the  present  day 
marked  by  their  ruins.  The  first  of  these  is  one  mile  east  of  the  Speckled 
Chapel,  now  Falkirk,  at  Langtoun.  The  next  is  at  Rowintree-burnhead 
and  [others  are]  at  Wester  Cowdon  above  Helins  Chapell,  at  Croyhil,  at 
Barhill,  at  Achindevy,  at  Kirkintillo,  at  East  Caldar,  at  Hiltoun  of 
Calder,  at  Balmuydie,  at  Simmertoun  beside  the  crossing  of  the  river 
Kelvin,  at  Carestoun,  at  Achterminnie,  at  Rochhill  near  Westwood,  at 
Bankyr  near  Castel  Carey,  and  at  Dunbass. 


ADNOTATA     DE     PR^ETENTURIS     ET 

MURIS    qui    PROVINCIAM    ROMANAM    a 
reliqua  BRITANIA  separabant. 

Primus  Julius  Agricola,  a  Glotta  ad  Bodotriam  tract  urn 
praesidiis  firmavit,  summotis  velut  in  aliam  insulam  hostibus. 

Sub  Trajano  defecisse  videntur  Britanni,  et  subactos  fuisse 
innuit  Spartianus. 

Imperante  Adriano  ipse  Imperator  ad  pacandas  res  venit, 
anno  Dom.  124,  hoc  est  tertio  suo  consulatu.  ex  Spartiano 
primus  per  insulam  multa  correxit,  murum^  per  60  pass,  primus 
inter  Barbaros  Romanosc^  duxit,  stipitibus  magnis  in  modum 
muralis  sepis,  funditus  jactis  atc^  connexis. 

VOL.  n.  2  A 


370         DEFENSIVE  LINES  OF  THE  ROMANS 

Sub  Antonino  Pio  bellum  denuo  exarsit,  quod  per  Lullium 
Urbicum  Legatum  compositum,  alioc^  muro  cespititio  barbaros 
summovit.  Capitolinus.  Pausanias  in  Arcad. 

Sub  Antonino  Philosopho  novi  motus  ad  quos  sedandos 
Calpurnius  Agricola  missus. 

Sub  Commodo  omnia  turbata,  et  barbari  murum  transgressi 
multa  vastarunt ;  contra  eos  missus  est  Ulpius  Marcellus  qui 
fortiter  boc  praestitit.  Xiphilin  e  Dione. 

Severe  Imperatore,  Heraclianus  ab  eo  missus  prim  urn 

agit,  deinde  Vivius  Lupus  Pr.  Pr.  qui  plura  castra  restauravit 
sed  a  Maeatis  coactus  est  pacem  pecunia  redimere,  cum  Cale- 
donii  promissis  non  starent,  qui  Maeatas  cohibere  polliciti 
erant,  unde  ipse  Imperator  accersitus,  cum  filiis  ac  ingenti 
exercitu  trajecit,  ubi  ut  Dio  habet,  50.000  militum  ex  insidiis 
ac  laboribus  castrensibus,  silvis  casdendis,  pontibus  faciendis, 
paludibus  siccandis  \sic\  Herodianus  refert  eum  velitationibus 
quibusdam  victorem  eos  ad  conditiones  redegisse,  ita  ut  non 
parva  regionis  parte  cederent  bostes  ;  at  illi  iterum  rebellarunt, 
unde  missis  ducibus,  jam  afFectus  senio,  ipse  Eboraci  residens 
eos  compescuit,  ubi  etiam  tandem  expiravit,  nondum  sopito 
bello. 

346.      Quomodo  hoc  fuerit  non  capio,  eum  magnum  agrum  de  hoste 
cepisset  tamen  munimenta  retraxisse. 

Antoninus  Caracalla,  bellum  per  duces  aliquantisper  adminis- 
travit,  sed  statim  pacem  fecit,  cupidine  redeundi  Romam,  agris 
ac  castellis  hosti  cessit. 

Imperantibus  Diocletiano  et  Maximiano,  Carausius,  ut  notum 
est,  hie  purpuram  sumpsit,  et  aliquot  annos  tenuit,  qui  ut  refert 
Nennius  Britannus,  contra  Barbaros  murum  inter  Cludae  at 
Carunae  ostia  reaedificavit,  et  septem  castellis  munivit,  domum^ 
rotundam  politis  lapidibus  super  ripam  fluminis  Carun,  qui  a 
suo  nomine,  nomen  accepit,  fornicem  triumphalem  in  victoriae 
memoriam  erigens  construxit. 

Vixit  Nennius  sub.  Heraclio  Imp.  anno  620  Bangorensis 
Co?nobii  antistes. 

Valentiniano  patre  imperante,  Picti  in  duas  gentes  divisi, 
(Ammianum  audis)  Dicaledones  et  Vecturiones  ;  itidemq^  Atta- 
cotti,  bellicosa  hominum  natio,  et  Scoti  per  di versa  vagantes 
multa  populabantur,  (et  post  multa  addit  quod  ad  rem  prae- 


DEFENSIVE  LINES  OF  THE  ROMANS         371 

sentem  facit).  Instaurabat  urbes  ac  praesidiaria  ut  diximus 
castra.  limites^  vigiliis  tuebatur  et  prastenturis,  recuperatamq^ 
provinciam,  quae  in  ditionem  concesserat  hostium,  ita  reddide- 
rat  statui  pristine,  ut,  eodem  referente,  et  rectorem  haberet 
legittimum  et  Valentia  deinde  vocaretur  arbitrio  principis. 

Sub  Gratiano,  Maximus  qui  Gratiano  caeso  imperium  arri- 
puit  incursantes  Pictos  et  Scotos  strenue  superavit. 

Sub  Honorio,  testatur  Claudianus,  Stiliconem  munivisse  limi- 
tem  et  ab  incursu  Scotorum  et  Pictorum  tutum  reddidisse,postea 
rebus  imperil  turbatis,  Roma  ab  Alaricho  capta  legionibus  per 
Constantinum  [sic]  qui  Arelate  aliquantisper  rebellis  Honorio 
regnavit.  Britanni  sibi  ipsis  relicti,  cum  hostibus  pares  non  347. 
essent  subsidium  ab  Honorio  petunt  et  impetrant,  legione  in 
subsidium  missa,  quae  hostibus  profligatis,  eos  provincia  exegit, 
niurumck  cespititium  inter  fretum  Edenburgense  (ubi  antea 
Julius  Agricola  castella  posuerat,  et  Adrianus  Imperator,  et 
Carausius  murum  statuerant)  et  Glottam  ducendum  curavit, 
qui  murus  nulli  fere  usui. 

nam  abeunte  legione,  hostes  reversi,  muro  multis  locis  diruto, 
omnia  crudeliter  vastant. 

Iterum  mittuntur  legati,  querulis  fletibus  auxilium  poscentes. 
jam  Valentinianus  iis  imperabat,  Honorii  sorore  genitus,  et 
Honorius  diem  obierat  extremum.  Valentinianus  auxilia  mittit 
duce  Gallione  Ravennate  qui  depulsis  hostibus,  murum  ilium 
inter  duo  freta  iterurn  reparavit,  unde  Romani,  Britaniam  non 
amplius  visuri,  in  continentem  trajecerunt. 

EXSCRIPTA  E  CAMBDENO  DE  MURO  VEL  PR.ETENTURA. 

Primam  praetenturam  posuisse  videtur  Julius  Agricola  cum 
angustum  terrarum  terminum  inter  Bodotriam  et  Glottam 
praesidiis  firmavit,  quod  postea  subinde  communitum. 

Hadrian  us  in  hac  insula  80  plus  minus  milliaribus  recessit. 
ille,  inquit  Spartianus,  murum  per  80  mill,  passuum  duxit, 
quern  ex  stipitibus  in  modum  militaris  sepis  funditus  jactis  et 
connexis  fuisse  ex  ejus  sequenti  narratione  liquet. 

Subjungit  Cambdenus :  hie  est  de  quo  nunc  agitur  per  80 
enim  mill,  passuum  procurrit,  ad  eum  pons  j^Elia,  classis 
Coliors  ^Elia,  Ala  Sabiniana. 


372         DEFENSIVE  LINES  OF  THE  ROMANS 

Scotus  ille  historians  qui  Rotam  Temporum  scripsit  Hadri- 

anus,  inquit,  vallum  portentosae  molis  ex  cespitibus  terra  excisis 

mentis  instar  altissima  fossa  ante  adjecta,  a  Tinae  ostiis  ad 

348.  Escam  fl.   a  mari   Germanico  ad  oceanum    usq^   Hibernicum 

primus  omnium  duxit.  quod  iisdem  verbis  habet  H.  Boethius. 

Lollius  Urbicus  Britannia?  sub  Antonio  Pio  Legatus,  secundis 
praeliis  terminos  iterum  promovit  usq^  ad  primam  illam  quam 
instituit  Julius  Agricola  praetenturam,  et  ibidem  tertiam 
praetenturam  muro  excitavit.  ille,  inquit  Capitolinus,  Britannos 
vicit  alio  muro  cespititio  submotis  Barbaris  ducto  alio,  ut  ait 
Cambdenus,  ab  illo  Hadriani. 

Cum  Imper.  Commodo  Britanni  ilium  perrupissent,  Severus, 
posthabita  ilia  ingenti  ulteriore  regione,  munimentum  duxit 
ab  Ituna  ad  Tinam,  eo  loco  si  quid  ego  judico,  ubi  suum 
duxerat  Hadrianus,  et  mecum  sentit  H.  Boetius,  idem  sentit 
Hier.  Surita,  idem  Pancirollus.  Eutropius  habet '  vallum  per 
35  (emenda  per  80)  mil.  pas.  a  mari  ad  mare  duxit/ 
Orosius  definit  longitudinem  ejus  122  m.  p. 

Pauculos  post  annos  haec  neglecta  munitio  fuit,  nam  cum 
Alexr  Severus  sola  de  hostibus  capta  ducibus  ac  militibus 
dedisset,  si  haeredes  eorum  militarent,  Romani  ad  Bodotriam 
limitem  iterum  promoverunt,  quos  tamen  Barbari  bella  ex 
bellis  serentes,  subinde  ad  Severi  vallum  repulerunt. 

Hos  limites  neglexisse  arguitur  Constantinus  Magnus. 

Ante  eum  Carausius  sub  Diocletiano  praetenturam  inter 
Glottam  et  Bodotriam  restituit. 

Interjectam  inter  praetenturas  regionem  Theodosius  Theo- 
dosii  Imper.  pater,  sub  Valentiniano  to  tarn  iterum  vendicavit 
et  pacavit  eaq^  provincia  Valentia  dicta. 

Nutante  Romano  Imperio,  Picti  ac  Scoti  perrupto  muro  ad 
Bodotriam,  in  provinciam  effusi  sunt.  sed  a  Gallione  Raven- 
nate  repulsi,  intra  antiquos  limites  coerciti  sunt,  turn  ejus 
hortatu  Britanni  murum  repararunt,  sed  inutilem.  constructus 
autem  fuit  inter  duos  praedictos  fines. 

Jam  ad  vallum  Severi  reducti  erant  limites,  ubi  Romani 
difficulter  hue  advocati  labente  Imperio,  cum  provincialibus 
murum  statuerunt,  ubi  quondam  Severus  vallum  statuerat. 


TRANSLATION:    ROMAN  DEFENSIVE  LINES      373 


The  following  is  a  translation  into  English 
of  what  is  given  in  Latin  in  the  Collections 
regarding  the  Defensive  Lines  of  the  Romans. 
The  Preface  contains  remarks  regarding  this 
item  of  the  Collections. 


NOTES  on  the  DEFENSIVE  LINES  which  separated 
the  ROMAN  PROVINCE  from  the  rest  of  BRITAIN. 

Julius  Agricola  was  the  first  to  strengthen  the  tract  from  the  Clyde  to 
the  Forth  with  garrisons,  having  removed  the  enemy  as  if  into  another 
island. 

Under  Trajan  the  Britons  appear  to  have  revolted,  and  Spartian 
indicates  that  they  were  subdued. 

In  the  reign  of  Adrian  the  Emperor  himself  came  to  establish  peace, 
in  the  year  of  our  Lord  124,  that  is,  in  his  third  consulship.  According 
to  Spartian  he  was  the  first  to  set  many  matters  right  throughout  the 
island,  and  the  first  to  make  a  wall  sixty  miles  in  length  between  the 
barbarians  and  the  Romans  by  means  of  great  trunks  of  trees  set  in 
the  ground  and  joined  together  after  the  manner  of  a  stockade. 

Under  Antoninus  Pius  war  broke  out  anew,  but  was  ended  by  the 
lieutenant-general  Lollius  Urbicus,  who  kept  the  enemy  back  by  another 
wall  of  turf.  Capitoltnus,  Pausanias  in  Arcad. 

Under  Antoninus  the  Philosopher  there  were  new  risings,  to  quell 
which  Calpurnius  Agricola  was  sent. 

Under  Commodus  everything  was  in  confusion,  and  the  barbarians, 
crossing  the  wall,  laid  many  places  waste.  Ulpius  Marcellus  was  sent 
against  them,  and  he  bravely  fulfilled  his  mission.  Xiphilin  from  Dio. 

When  Severus  was  emperor,  Heraclius  being  sent  by  him  first  acts 
,  and  then  Vivius  Lupus  as  Propraetor,  who  repaired  many 
forts,  but  was  compelled  by  the  Maeatte  to  purchase  peace  with  money, 
since  the  Caledonii,  who  had  promised  to  restrain  the  Maeatae  did  not 
keep  their  engagements  ;  so  that  the  emperor  himself  was  sent  for  with 
his  sons,  and  crossed  with  an  immense  army.  Here,  as  Dio  has  it  [he 
lost]  50,000  soldiers  through  ambushes  and  the  labours  of  fortifying 
camps,  cutting  down  forests,  building  bridges,  and  draining  marshes. 


374       TRANSLATION:  ROMAN  DEFENSIVE  LINKS 

Herodiau  states  that  he  was  successful  in  some  skirmishes,  and  brought 
the  enemy  to  terms,  so  that  they  withdrew  from  no  small  portion  of  the 
country  :  but  they  again  rebelled,  after  which,  being  now  an  old  man, 
he  subdued  them  by  sending  generals,  remaining  himself  at  York,  where 
also  at  length  he  died  before  the  war  was  yet  over. 

I  do  not  understand  how  it  happened  that  he  took  much  territory 
from  the  enemy,  and  yet  withdrew  his  fortifications. 

Antoninus  Caracalla  for  a  little  while  conducted  the  war  through 
generals,  but  immediately  made  peace,  and  in  his  eagerness  to  return 
to  Rome,  he  retired  before  the  enemy  from  lands  and  forts. 

In  the  reigns  of  Diocletian  and  Maximian,  as  is  well  known,  the 
purple  was  assumed  here,  and  kept  for  some  years  by  Carausius,  who, 
as  the  British  Nennius  states,  rebuilt  the  wall  between  the  mouths  of 
the  Clyde  and  the  Carron  to  check  the  barbarians,  strengthening  it  with 
seven  forts,  and  constructed  a  round  house  of  polished  stone  on  the 
bank  of  the  river  Carron,  which  received  its  name  from  his,  erecting 
a  triumphal  arch  in  memory  of  his  victory. 

Nennius  lived  under  the  Emperor  Heraclius,  and  in  the  year  620  was 
head  of  the  monastery  at  Bangor. 

In  the  reign  of  Valentinian  (the  father)  the  Picts  were  divided  (this 
is  what  Ammianus  says)  into  two  tribes,  the  Dicaledones  and  the 
Vecturiones  ;  and  likewise  the  Attacotti,  a  warlike  race  of  men,  and 
the  Scots  wandering  over  many  parts  laid  them  waste  (and  he  adds 
much  to  the  present  purpose).  He  repaired  cities  and  garrison  camps, 
as  we  have  said,  and  protected  the  borders  with  outposts  and  defensive 
lines.  He  so  restored  the  recovered  province,  which  had  come  under 
the  enemy's  sway,  that,  as  the  same  author  tells,  it  both  had  a  lawful 
ruler  and  was  thereafter  called  Valentia  by  the  decision  of  the  emperor. 

Under  Gratian,  Maximus,  who,  after  Gratian  was  put  to  death,  seized 
the  empire,  energetically  overcame  the  raiding  Picts  and  Scots. 

Under  Honoring, Claudianus  testifies  that  Stilicho  fortified  the  boundary, 
and  made  it  safe  from  the  incursions  of  the  Scots  and  Picts.  Afterwards, 
in  the  disturbed  state  of  the  empire,  Rome  was  captured  by  Alaric,  and 
the  legions  through  Constantine,  who  reigned  a  little  while 

at  Aries  in  rebellion  against  Honorius.  The  Britons,  left,to  themselves, 
since  they  were  not  a  match  for  the  enemy,  sought  and  obtained  help 
from  Honorius,  a  legion  being  sent  which  routed  the  enemy  and  drove 
them  from  the  province.  He  caused  a  rampart  of  turf  to  be  made  be- 
tween the  Frith  of  Edinburgh  and  the  Clyde  (where  formerly  Julius 
Agricola  placed  his  forts).  This  wall  was  of  hardly  any  use. 

For  on  the  departure  of  the  legion  the  enemy  returned,  and,  breaking 
down  the  wall  in  many  places,  cruelly  laid  all  the  country  waste. 

Deputies  are  sent  again  seeking  help  with  plaintive  tears.  Their  ruler 
was  now  Valentinian,  son  of  Honorius's  sister,  and  Honorius  had  died. 
Valentinian  sends  auxiliary  troops  under  the  leadership  of  Gallio  of 
Ravenna,  who,  defeating  the  enemy,  again  repaired  the  wall  between 


TRANSLATION:  ROMAN  DEFENSIVE  LINES       375 

the  two  friths,  after  which  the  Romans  crossed  to  the  Continent,  never 
again  to  visit  Britain. 

EXTRACTS  FROM  CAJIDEN  ABOUT  THE  WALL  OR  DEFENSIVE  LINE. 

Julius  Agricola  appears  to  have  made  the  first  defensive  work  when 
he  secured  with  garrisons  the  narrow  boundary  between  the  Forth  and 
the  Clyde  :  it  was  soon  afterwards  fortified  continuously. 

Hadrian  in  this  island  retired  eighty  miles,  more  or  less.  He,  says 
Spartian,  made  a  wall  extending  eighty  miles,  which,  it  is  clear  from 
his  subsequent  narrative,  was  of  trunks  of  trees  set  close  together  in  the 
ground  after  the  manner  of  a  stockade. 

Camden  adds,  'This  is  the  wall  now  in  question,  for  it  runs  eighty 
miles  :  at  it  are  [the  names  of]  the  ^Eliaii  Bridge,  the  JEli&n  Fleet,  the 
^lian  Cohort,  and  the  Sabinian  Horse.' 

That  Scottish  historian  who  wrote  the  Rota  Temporum  [the  Wheel 
of  the  Times]  says,  f  Hadrian  was  the  first  to  build  of  turfs  dug  from 
the  ground  a  rampart  of  enormous  size,  like  a  mountain,  adding  a  ditch 
in  front,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Tyne  to  the  river  Esk,  from  the  German 
Ocean  to  the  Irish  Sea ' ;  which  H.  Boece  has  in  the  same  words. 

Lollius  Urbicus,  lieutenant-general  in  Britain  under  Antoninus  Pius, 
after  victorious  fights,  again  brought  the  boundaries  forward  to  that  first 
line  of  defence  which  Julius  Agricola  made,  and  in  the  same  locality 
he  raised  a  third  work  of  defence  consisting  of  a  wall,  Capitolinus  says, 
conquered  the  Britons,  and  kept  the  barbarians  off  by  another  rampart 
of  turf  running  to  a  different  place  from  that  of  Hadrian. 

When  the  Britons  broke  through  it  in  the  reign  of  Commodus, 
Severus,  neglecting  that  immense  region  beyond,  built  a  fortification 
from  Ituna  [on  the  Solway]  to  the  Tyne,  in  that  place,  if  I  am  any 
judge,  where  Hadrian  had  made  his;  and  H.  Boece  agrees  with  me, 
as  do  Hieronymus  Surita  and  Pancirollus.  Eutropius  has,  *  He  made 
a  wall  extending  thirty-five  (correct  this  to  eighty)  miles  from  sea  to 
sea.' 

Orosius  determines  its  length  as  one  hundred  and  twenty-two  miles. 

After  a  very  few  years  this  defence  was  neglected,  for  when  Alexander 
Severus  had  given  the  lands  captured  from  the  enemy  to  his  officers 
and  soldiers,  on  condition  that  their  heirs  should  serve  as  soldiers,  the 
Romans  again  advanced  their  boundaries  to  the  Forth,  but  the  barbarians 
by  uninterrupted  warfare  soon  drove  them  back  to  the  wall  of  Severus. 

Constantine  the  Great  is  shown  to  have  neglected  these  boundaries. 

Before  him,  Carausius,  under  Diocletian,  restored  the  defensive  line 
between  the  Clyde  and  the  Forth. 

The  whole  country  lying  between  the  lines  was  again  secured  and 
pacified  under  Valentinian  by  Theodosius,  father  of  the  Emperor  Theo- 
dosius,  and  that  province  was  called  Valentia. 

When  the  Roman  Empire  was  tottering,  the  Picts  and  Scots,  breaking 
through  the  wall,  poured  into  the  province  ;  but,  driven  back  by  Gallic 


376  ANCESTORS  OF  OUK  NATION 

of  Ravenna,  they  were  confined  within  the  old  bounds,  and  then  by  his 
advice,  the  Britons  repaired  the  wall,  but  it  was  useless.  It  was  con- 
structed between  the  two  extremities  aforesaid. 

Now  the  limits  were  brought  back  to  the  rampart  of  Severus,  and 
here  the  Romans,  being  summoned  with  difficulty  near  the  fall  of  the 
Empire,  built  a  wall  along  with  the  provincials,  where  formerly  Severus 
had  set  up  his  rampart. 


MAJORES  GENTIS  NOSTJLE. 

Libuit  hue  attexere  nonnulla  de  gentis  nostrae  majoribus, 
quae  ex  historicis  observavi,  quae  quanquam  fortasse  scitu  non 
inutilia,  singulis  tamen  haec  legentibus  suum  judicium  liberum 
relinquo.  Ego  quae  sentio  et  quae  mihi  verosimilia  videntur 
profero. 

Sicut  Britannia  a  vicina  Gallia  primes  cultores  omnium  qui 
de  his  scripsere  fide  accepisse  fatendum  est,  ita  Hiberniam  a 
Britannia,  quae  sereno  coelo  hide  etiam  alicubi  cerni  potest. 
ac  cum  hi  pauci  pro  magnitudine  insulae  essent,  antiquissimis 
temporibus  Cantabri  ex  Hispania  septentrional!,  taedio  servi- 
tutis  (ut  est  ilia  gens  libertatis  uscj^  in  hodiernum  avidissima,) 
cum  omnia  illic  ferverent  bellis,  fortasse  primum  Carthaginien- 
sibus,  postea  Romanis  omnia  late  subjugantibus,  novas  sedes 
quaerens  in  illam  insulam  penetravit  [sic],  et  si  quos  incolas 
repperit,  tandem  in  unum  corpus  cum  illis  coaluit.  haec  non  est 
mea  conjectura  sed  ex  annalium  ejus  insulae  fide  petita,  quae 
quanquam  confuse  tradita,  neq^  suis  temporibus  aptata,  possunt 
tamen  apud  veros  rerum  aestimatores  fidem  aliquam  mereri. 
Hue  etiam  facit  linguae  affinitas,  nam  ut  refer unt  utriusc^  periti, 
inagna  est  in  utrac^  vocum  affinitas,  quandoq^  eaedem  idem 
significant,  neq^  ut  referunt,  magis  absunt  quam  hodierna 
lingua  Anglica  abest  a  sua  matrice  Germanica  superior!,  nam 
Belgica  ejusdem  quoq^  dialectus  est.  quae  si  vera  sunt,  verissi- 
mum  erit  Hibernos  Cantabrorum  sobolem  esse,  quo  stemmate, 
et  non  sane  inglorio,  imprimis  delectantur.  Si  contra  arguatur 
leve  esse  propter  tain  exiguam  linguae  consonantiam  inde 
primordia  gentis  repetere,  cum  Hiberni  et  Walli  multas  voces 
communes  habeant,  primum  ut  dixi,  fatendum  est  Wallos 
hoc  est  antiques  Britannos  ante  omnes  hue  appulsos,  unde 


ANCESTORS  OF  OUR  NATION  377 

-advectis  postea  Cantabris  et  cum  iis  in  imam  rempublicam 
mistis,  verosimile  est  multas  voces  Britannicas  in  lingua  haesisse 
«ed  cum  posteriores  numero  praevalerent,  etiam  lingua  prae- 
^valuisse. 

Praeterea  consuetum  est  vicinas  gentes  qui  inter  se  com-  350. 
mercia  agitant,  ut  plurimum  multas  voces  communes  habere ; 
:ita  infinita  Gallicarum  vis  in  hodiernam  Anglicam  irrepsit,  ac 
si  hoc  Normannorum  fortunae  tribuatur,  quid  igitur  de  Italica 
et  Hispanica  sentiendum  cum  illi  suas  quoq^  voculas  plerasc^ 
agnoscere  Anglicae  admistas  possint,  et  quotidie  sensim  haec 
mutatio  crescat  ?  Sed  ad  rem. 

Videntur  Scoti  ex  iisdem  Hispaniae  septentrionalibus  oris 
-Galicia,  Asturia,  Cantabria,  postea  ad  tribules  suos  advecti, 
at  quibus  ducibus,  quibus  causis,  quo  tempore,  omhia  videntur 
incerta,  nam  fabulas  ^Egyptiae  Scotae  Gatheli,  erroresc^  in  medi- 
terraneo  et  externo  mari,  non  libens  agnosco,  tarn  multa 
-contra  faciunt.  credat  Judaeus  Apella.  De  Gathelo  postea 
dicam  quid  sentiam. 

Scoti  igitur  in  Hiberniam  recepti  apud  veteres  amicos  conse- 
disse  videntur,  at  semper  ab  initio  discreti,  nomen  suum 
retinentes.  horum  pars  in  Britanniam  trajiciens,  auspicate 
regni  fundamenta  jecere,  primum  angusto  et  sterili  loco,  Glotta 
enim  ad  meridiem,  teste  Beda,  illis  terminus  fuit.  et  quae  ad 
Bodotriam  et  Taum  vergunt,  ortum  respicientia  insederant 
Picti,  sed  statim  prolatis  terminis,  magnum  terrarum  tractum 
citra  Glottam  sibi  vendicavere,  unde  ingens  contra  Britannos 
belli  materia,  qui  non  [sic]  facile  neq^  sine  multo  sanguine 
-avitis  sedibus  migrare  nollent. 

Jam  reliquos  Scotos  qui  in  Hibernia  manserant,  multis  postea 
seculis  nornen  suum,  et  genus  suum  impermistum  retinuisse 
consentiens  historicorum  relatio  agnoscit.  Unde  apud  Bedam 
multis  locis  invenitur  Scotorum  Hibernorum  et  Scotorum 
Albinensium  vel  Albionensium  ab  Albione  insula  frequens 
mentio.  creber  quoc^  de  iisdem  apud  nostros  sermo  et  eadem 
•destinctio.  at  qui  historicis  nostris  fidem  non  habent  non  pos- 
sunt  non  agnoscere  Bedam. 

Jam  de  Gathelo  11011  omnia  sunt  inania,  virum  summum  et 
de  sua  gente  praeclare  meritum  multa  testantur :  terra  ilia  ad 
•quam  primum  appulere  Scoti  in  Britanniam  hodie  Ardgyl,  verius 


378     TRANSLATION:  ANCESTORS  OF  OUR  NATION 

et  secundum  priscam  linguam,  Ard  Gathel.  Ard  autem  inter- 
pretatur  terra  alta,  quae  in  montes  intumescit.  Gaoel  vel 
Gathel  viri  nomen.  Lingua  ipsa  illis  Galig. 


The  following  is  a  translation  into  English  of 
what  is  said  in  Latin  as  to  the  Ancestors  of 
our  Nation. 

In  the  Preface  there  are  some  remarks  as  to 
this  item  of  the  Collections. 

The  ANCESTORS  of  our  NATION. 

It  has  pleased  me  to  add  to  this  some  points  about  the  ancestors 
of  our  nation,  which  I  have  noted  from  historians ;  and  though  these- 
may  be  useful  to  know,  still  I  leave  their  own  free  judgment  to  those 
that  read  these  remarks.  I  will  set  forth  what  I  think,  and  what  to 
me  seems  probable. 

It  must  be  admitted  that  Britain  received  its  first  inhabitants  from 
the  neighbouring  Gaul,  according  to  the  testimony  of  all  who  have 
written  on  this  subject,  and  similarly,  that  Ireland  received  its  in- 
habitants from  Britain,  which  in  clear  weather  can  be  seen  even  from 
thence  in  some  places.  And  since  these  were  few  in  proportion  to  the 
size  of  the  island,  in  very  ancient  times  Cantabrians  from  the  north 
of  Spain,  weary  of  slavery  (as  that  nation  has  been  very  fond  of  freedom 
even  to  modern  times),  since  all  was  in  a  ferment  with  wars,  when 
possibly  at  first  the  Carthaginians,  and  then  the  Romans  were  subju- 
gating the  whole  country  round,  seeking  new  settlements  reached  that 
island,  and  became  incorporated  with  whatever  inhabitants  they  found. 
This  is  not  my  conjecture,  but  is  derived  from  the  authority  of  the 
annals  of  that  island,  which  although  handed  down  in  a  confused  manner, 
and  inconsistent  with  their  own  times,  may  still  deserve  some  credit  from 
true  judges  of  history.  Linguistic  affinity  also  goes  to  prove  this,  for, 
as  those  skilled  in  both  languages  tell  us,  there  is  a  close  affinity  between 
the  words  of  the  two,  and  sometimes  the  same  names  mean  the  same 
thing,  nor,  as  they  tell,  are  the  tongues  further  apart  than  English  is- 


TRANSLATION:  ANCESTORS  OF  OUR  NATION     379 

from  its  original  source,  the  high  German,  for  the  Dutch  is  also  a 
dialect  of  the  same.  If  this  is  true,  it  will  be  most  certain  that  the 
Irish  are  the  offspring  of  the  Cantabrians,  and  with  this  by  no  means 
inglorious  descent  they  are  immensely  pleased.  If,  on  the  other  hand, 
it  be  argued  that  it  is  but  a  slight  proof,  because  of  such  a  slender  agree- 
ment in  language,  thence  to  trace  the  beginnings  of  the  nation,  seeing 
that  the  Irish  and  the  Welsh  have  many  words  in  common  ;  first,  as 
I  have  said,  it  must  be  admitted  that  the  Welsh,  that  is  the  ancient 
Britons,  landed  here  before  all  others.  It  is,  therefore,  probable,  that 
when  the  Cantabrians  afterwards  arrived  and  coalesced  with  them  into- 
one  state,  many  British  words  persisted  in  the  language,  but  since  the 
Britons  who  came  later  were  more  numerous,  they  also  predominated 
in  their  speech. 

Besides,  it  is  usual  for  neighbouring  nations  that  have  dealings  with 
each  other,  in  most  cases  to  have  many  words  in  common ;  thus  an. 
endless  number  of  French  words  have  crept  into  modern  English,  and 
if  this  be  attributed  to  the  success  of  the  Normans,  what  then  must  be 
thought  about  Italian  and  Spanish  ?  For  those  that  speak  these  languages 
can  also  recognise  many  of  their  own  vocables  mixed  with  English,  and 
this  change  goes  on  perceptibly  every  day.  But  to  our  purpose. 

The  Scots  appear  to  have  afterwards  sailed  also  from  Galicia,  Asturia,. 
and  Cantabria  on  the  north  coast  of  Spain  to  their  fellow-tribesmen,  but 
under  what  leaders,  from  what  causes,  and  at  what  time  seems  all  un- 
certain. I  am  not  prepared,  when  there  are  so  many  facts  in  opposition, 
to  admit  the  stories  about  the  Egyptian  Scota,  Gathelus,  and  their 
wanderings  in  the  Mediterranean  and  the  Atlantic.  The  Jew  Apella 
may  believe  them.  About  Gathelus  I  will  after  this  say  what  I  think. 

The  Scots,  then,  seem  to  have  been  received  into  Ireland,  and  to  have 
settled  among  their  old  friends,  but  they  were  always  distinct  from  the 
beginning,  preserving  their  own  name.  A  portion  of  them  crossing  into- 
Britain  auspiciously  laid  the  foundations  of  a  kingdom,  first  in  a  narrow 
and  barren  district,  for,  according  to  Bede,  the  Clyde  was  their  boundary 
on  the  south.  And  the  parts  that  stretch  to  the  Forth  and  the  Tay, 
looking  to  the  east,  had  been  occupied  by  the  Picts,  but  immediately 
extending  their  bounds  they  claimed  a  large  tract  of  land  on  this  side 
of  the  Clyde,  and  this  supplied  abundant  grounds  for  war  against  the 
Britains,  who  were  unwilling  to  remove  readily  and  without  much  blood- 
shed from  their  ancestral  settlements. 

Now  the  consistent  narrative  of  historians  declares  that  the  rest  of 
the  Scots  who  had  remained  in  Ireland  preserved  their  name  and 
their  race.  Thus  in  many  passages  of  Bede  frequent  mention  is  found 
of  Irish  Scots  and  Albinian  or  Albionian  Scots,  from  the  island  of  Albion. 
Our  own  historians  also  speak  much  of  them,  and  there  is  the  same 
distinction.  But  those  who  do  not  believe  our  writers  cannot  but 
recognise  Bede. 

Now  the  statements  about  Gathelus  are  not  all  idle  tales  :  there  are 


380         COMING  OF  THE  SCOTS  TO  BRITAIN 


many  evidences  that  be  was  a  very  great  man  and  deserved  nobly  of 
his  nation.  That  district  where  the  Scots  first  landed  in  Britain  is  now 
Ardgyl,  more  properly  and  according  to  the  ancient  language  Ard 
Gathel.  Ard  means  high  land,  and  Gaoel  or  Gathel  is  a  man's  name. 
Their  language  is  itself  Galig. 


451.  ADVENTUS  SCOTORUM  IN  BRIT  ANN  I  AM 

Primam  nobis  controversiam  de  adventu  majorum  nostrorum 
in  hanc  insulam  faciunt  aut  certe  non  ita  pridem  fecere 
Angli  historic!  quidam,  qui  patria  lingua  scribentes,  nostrum 
adventum  paucis  annis  praecessisse  Saxonum  ingressum  con- 
tendunt,  inclinante  jam  Romano  imperio,  turn  enim  apud  Mar- 
cellinum,  Claudianum  poetam,  et  nonnullos  alios,  Scotorum 
nomen  auditur,  nec^  horum  scriptorum  Anglicorum,  qui  rhap- 
sodias  verius  quam  historias  scripsere,  magna  habenda  ratio 
est,  cum  antiquitas  omnis  iis  plerunq^  incognita,  aut  lecta 
antiquitate,  earn  intelligere,  aut  autores  inter  se  conferre, 
non  erat  eorum  judicii :  At  Cambdenus  vir  eruditus,  antiqui- 
tatis  scientissimus,  quique  de  hisce  rebus  ex  professo,  ante  non 
multos  annos  scripsit,  idem  cum  sua  gente,  quod  periculosum 
de  nobis  sensit,  et  scriptis  professus  est,  iisdem,  quibus  caeteri 
argu mentis  usus,  et  quae  in  contrarium  proferri  possent,  pro 
viribus  ingenii  diluens.  irridet  Scaligeri  lectionem  e  Senecae 
apocolocyntosi  de  morte  Claudii,  qui  in  anapaestis  legit  Scoto- 
Brigantes,  illo  contendente  haec  a  Scaligero  contra  codicum 
vetustiorum  fidem  variata,  qui  ut  ille  asserit,  legunt  aut  Scuta- 
Brigantes  aut  cute-Brigantes.  Nondum  Dempsteri  nostri 
prodierat  locus  e  notissimo  Flori  epigrammate  depromptus  : 

Scythicas  pati  pruinas, 

quo  loco  Dempsterus  contendit  Scoticas  reponi  debere.  Jam 
Panegyres  quibusdam  Imperatoribus  habitas  contendit  ille, 
nihil  nobis  favere,  cum  sequioribus  sseculis  eas  omnes  scriptas 
constet,  imperantibus  Diocletiano,  Maximiano,  Constantio, 
Constantino  et  quibusdam  posterioribus,  ita  videtur  sibi 
triumph um  canere.  Mirum  sane  est  virum  in  re  literaria  et 
omni  antiquitate  tarn  exacte  versatum  non  intendisse  animum 
ad  ea  quae  ei  in  manibus  erant,  contra  quae  null  us  erat  eft'ugio 


COMING  OF  THE  SCOTS  TO  BRITAIN        381 

locus,  si  non  praejudicio  ejus  damnati  fuissemus.     Illustrissimi 
Scaligeri    et   doctissimi  Demsteri  ingeniosas  conjecturas  non 
moramur,  at  Scotos  non  fuisse  in  Britannia,  antequam  Roman! 
id  nomen  scriptis  consignarent,  asserere  projectae  audaciae  est, 
quod   argumentum    si   valeat   nemo   non    videt,   quam    multi 
populi  patriae  carituri  sint,  cum  Romanis  consuetum  fuerit,  352. 
contra   quos   arma   tulerant,  saepissime   hostes,  nonnunquam 
barbaros   nominare,  at   non   sit   nobis   dedecori   post   multa 
saecula  tandem  nostrum  et  Picticum  nomen  demum  Romanis 
innotuisse,  nos  illosq^  finium  damno  mulctatos  fuisse,  caeterum 
hie  terminum  imperio  positum   et  nos  extra  Orbem  liberos 
relictos.      Bedam   Anglo-Saxonem  in    vicinia  nostra   natum, 
quick   ibidem   aetatem    egit,  et   longaevus    mortuus   est   circa 
annum   salutis  736,  qui  Scotos  et  Pictos  ex  relligionis  com- 
mercio,  et  mutua  consuetudine  optime  norat,  multac^  de  iis, 
scriptis  mandavit,  hunc,  inquam,  virum,  quern  Camdenus  magni 
facit,  et  fidissimum  antiquitatis  testem   vocat,  in  partes  advo- 
cemus,  cum  ab  eo,  Cambdeno  judice,  nulla  sit  provocatio ;  is 
statim  initio  historiae  suae  Ecclesiasticae,  diversarum  gentium 
in  insulam  immigrationes  ordine  enumerans,  primos  recenset 
Britones  procul  dubio  antiquissimos  et   de   quorum  .origine 
nihil  illi  nec^  ipsis,  teste  Caesare,  constabat.     Proximos  ab  his 
Pictos,   quorum  adventus  causas  describit,  qui   hue  appulsi, 
plurima  insulae  parte,  non  tota,  ab  austro  incipiendo,  ut  verba 
ejus  habent,  a  Britonibus  possessa.     Subjungit  deinde  tertios 
incolas  Scotos,  in  partem  Pictorum  receptos,  qui  duce  Reuda 
de  Hybernia  egressi,  vel  ferro  vel  amicitia,  sibimet  inter  eos 
sedes  quas  hactenus  habent,  vindicarunt.   Sedes  autem  hae  Bedas 
tempore,  ut  postea  narrabimus,  non  transcendebant  aestuarium 
Glottae,  illis  simulc^  Pictis  in  illas  angustias  vi  Nordanhum- 
brorum  coactis.     Jam  collocatis  in  insula  his  tribus  distinctis 
populis,  Romanorum  primum  adventum  nova  narratione  tan- 
quam  rem  quae  posteris  temporibus  acciderat,  describere  aggre- 
ditur.       Haec   intuentibus   clara,   perspicua    sunt,    neq^    ullis 
verborum  ambagibus  involuta,  sed  secundum  laudatam  patris 
hujus    ubic^   consuetudinem,   simpliciter    et   ingenue   tradita. 
Ne<^  credibile  est  hujus  rei  veritatem,  doctissimi  Antiquarii 
judicium  aut   scientiam   effugisse    sed   praejudicio  celasse,  et 
quae  viderat,  intellexerat,  dissimulasse,  nam  cum  antiquitatem 


382         COMING  OF  THE  SCOTS  TO  BRITAIN 

nostram    infensissime    oppugnaret,    non    ejus    intererat    haec 
excutere. 

Videamus  ergo  quantum  hinc  accedat  temporis  primordiis 
nostris ;  annales  nostri  conferunt  adventum  Scotorum  in  hanc 
353.  insulam  in  annum  ante  natum  Salvatorem  330,  postea  expulsos 
a  Britonibus,  iterum  duce  Reuthari,  quern  Beda  Reudam  vocat, 
insulam  et  antiquas  sedes  tenuisse  anno  ante  natum  Christum 
204.  Romani  autem  primum  trajecerunt  anno  ante  Salva- 
torem, referente  Beda,  60,  inclinato  vero  imperio,  Saxones  ad 
arcendos  Scotos  et  Pictos  evocati  sunt  anno  449  cum  illae 
nationes  Britonibus  incumberent  desertis  a  Romanis  et  tyran- 
norum  delectibus  exhaustis,  neq^  antea,  secundum  Cambdenum 
insederant  Britanniam  Scoti.  trajecit  Maxim  us  tyraimus  ex 
Britannia  et  [sic]  Gratianum  Imperatorem  circa  annum  salutis 
363,  cum  autem  hag  grassationes  statim  postea  creperint,  nam 
dum  Maximus  infensissimus  iis  hostis  in  insula  yersaretur,  non 
haec  ausi  fuissent.  ex  Bedae  calculo,  ad  hunc  annum  intersunt  ab 
adventu  Caesaris  anni  443.  Jam  a  Caesare  ad  Reudam  ut  Beda 
eum  vocat,  oportet  aliquam  multos  annos  effluxisse ;  hoc  tempus 
nostri  annales  statuunt  144  annorum,  qui  numerus  in  tanta 
antiquitate  non  magnus  est ;  ita  Camdeni  calculum  praecedent 
initia  regni  nostri  annis  587.  At  nostri  historic!  ante  haec 
tempora  enumerant  quinc^  reges,  quorum  tempora  134  annis 
constitisse  scribunt.  Nemo  aequus  lector  non  aliquam  fidem 
illis  habebit,  cum  omnes  gentes  suarum  rerum  maxime  curiosi 
sint.  At  nulla  sit  illis  fides,  deleantur  hi  134  anni,  procul 
dubio  tamen  illustrissimus  hie  Antiquarius  cum  suis  sequacibus 
causa  cecidere. 


TRANSLATION:  COMING  OF  SCOTS  TO  BRITAIN     383 

The  following  is  a  translation  into  English  of 
what  is  said  in  Latin  regarding  the  Coming 
of  the  Scots  to  Britain. 

The  Preface  contains  some  remarks  regard- 
ing this  item  of  the  Collections. 

The  COMING  of  the  SCOTS  to  BRITAIN. 

Our  first  controversy  about  the  coming  of  our  ancestors  into  this 
island  is  raised,  or  at  any  rate  was  not  very  long  ago  raised,  by  certain 
English  historians,  who,  writing  in  their  native  language,  maintain  that 
•our  coming  preceded  the  Saxon  Invasion  by  a  few  years  only,  when  the 
Roman  Empire  was  in  its  decline,  for  it  is  then,  in  Marcellhms,  the 
poet  Claudianus,  and  some  others,  that  the  name  of  the  Scots  is  heard. 
Nor  need  we  have  much  regard  to  those  English  writers,  who  wrote 
rhapsodies  rather  than  histories,  since  all  antiquity  was  generally 
unknown  to  them,  or  if  they  read  ancient  authors,  they  had  not  the 
judgment  to  understand  them.  But  Camden,  a  learned  man  and  a 
skilful  antiquary,  who  wrote  on  this  subject  professedly  not  many  years 
ago,  had  the  same  prejudicial  feeling  towards  us  as  his  countrymen  had, 
•and  showed  it  in  his  writings,  using  the  same  arguments  as  the  rest,  and 
with  all  the  powers  of  his  intellect  explaining  away  whatever  could  be 
•adduced  to  the  contrary :  he  ridicules  the  reading  from  Seneca's 
Apocolocyntosis,  given  by  Scaliger,  who,  in  the  anapaests  reads  Scoto- 
Krigantes,  and  he  holds  that  this  was  varied  by  Scaliger  against  the 
authority  of  the  older  manuscripts,  which,  as  he  asserts,  read  either 
Scuta-Brigantes  or  cute-Brigantes.  Our  Dempster's  passage,  taken  from 
the  well-known  epigram  of  Florus,  had  not  yet  appeared  : — 

'To  bear  Scythian  hoar-frosts,' 

where  Dempster  maintains  that  Scottish  ought  to  be  restored.  Then  he 
argues  that  the  eulogies  pronounced  on  certain  emperors  are  not  in  our 
favour,  though  it  is  agreed  that  these  were  written  in  other  centuries, 
•during  the  reigns  of  Diocletian,  Maximian,  Constantius,  Constantine, 
and  some  later ;  so  he  seems  to  sound  a  pa?an  of  triumph  for  himself. 
It  is  certainly  strange  that  a  man  so  accurately  versed  in  literature  and 
all  antiquity  did  not  apply  his  mind  to  what  he  had  in  hand,  from  which 
there  was  no  room  for  escape,  if  we  had  not  been  condemned  by  his 
prejudice.  We  do  not  spend  time  over  the  ingenious  conjectures  of  the 
famous  Scaliger  and  the  learned  Dempster ;  but  it  is  sheer  audacity  to 
assert  that  there  were  no  Scots  in  Britain  before  the  Romans  committed 
that  name  to  writing ;  and  if  this  argument  be  valid,  every  one  sees  how 
many  nations  will  be  without  fatherland,  since  it  was  the  custom  of  the 
Romans  to  call  those  against  whom  they  had  borne  arms  enemies  most 
frequently,  and  sometimes  barbarians,  but  it  need  not  be  a  disgrace  to 


384    TRANSLATION:  COMING  OF  SCOTS  TO  BRITAIN 

us  that  after  many  ages  our  name  and  that  of  the  Picts  became  known 
at  length  to  the  Romans,  and  that  we  and  they  were  punished  with  the 
loss  of  territory,  but  that  here  the  boundary  of  the  empire  was  fixed  and 
we  were  left  free,  outside  the  Roman  world.  Let  us  call  into  the  case 
the  Anglo-Saxon  Bede,  who  was  born  in  our  neighbourhood,  and  spent 
his  life  in  the  same  place,  dying  at  an  advanced  age  about  the  year  of 
salvation  736.  He  was  very  well  acquainted  with  the  Scots  and  the 
Picts  from  ecclesiastical  dealings  and  mutual  intercourse,  and  wrote 
much  about  them — this  man,  I  say,  let  us  call,  whom  Camden  makes 
much  of,  and  calls  a  most  faithful  witness  to  antiquity,  since  from  him, 
Camden  being  the  judge,  there  is  no  appeal.  At  the  very  beginning 
of  his  Ecclesiastical  History,  in  enumerating  in  order  the  immigrations  of 
various  nations  into  the  island  he  places  the  Britons  first,  as  undoubtedly 
the  most  ancient,  about  whose  origin  nothing  was  known  to  him,  or, 
as  Caesar  declares,  to  themselves ;  and  next  after  these  the  Picts,  the 
causes  of  whose  coming  he  describes,  and  who  landed  here  when  the 
most  of  the  island,  but  not  the  whole,  beginning  from  the  south,  a& 
his  words  have  it,  was  possessed  by  the  Britons.  Then  he  adds,  as  the 
third  set  of  inhabitants,  the  Scots,  who  were  admitted  into  the  part  of 
the  Picts,  and  who,  departing  from  Ireland  under  the  leadership  of 
Reuda,  secured  for  themselves,  either  by  the  sword  or  by  friendship,  the 
settlements  which  they  have  till  now.  But  these  settlements  in  Bede's 
time,  as  we  shall  afterwards  show,  did  not  go  beyond  the  Frith  of  Clyde, 
for  they  and  the  Picts  at  the  same  time  were  confined  to  those  fastnesses 
by  the  power  of  the  Northumbrians.  Now,  having  placed  these  three 
distinct  nations  in  the  island,  he  proceeds  to  describe  the  first  coming 
of  the  Romans  in  a  new  narrative,  as  an  event  which  happened  in  later 
times.  This  history  is  clear  and  plain  to  those  who  peruse  it,  and  not 
involved  in  obscure  language,  but,  agreeably  to  the  praiseworthy  style 
of  this  Father  everywhere,  simply  and  frankly  told.  Nor  can  we  believe 
that  the  truth  of  this  matter  escaped  the  judgment  or  knowledge  of  the 
most  learned  Antiquary,  but  that  he  concealed  what  he  had  seen  and 
understood  owing  to  prejudice,  for  while  he  was  assailing  our  antiquity 
in  the  most  hostile  fashion,  it  was  not  his  interest  to  shake  this  off. 

Let  us  see  then  how  much  is  added  by  this  to  our  beginnings.  Our 
annals  fix  the  coming  of  the  Scots  into  this  island  at  the  year  before 
the  Saviour's  birth  330,  and  state  that  afterwards  they  were  expelled 
by  the  Britons,  but  again  under  the  leadership  of  Reutharis,  whom  Bede 
calls  Reuda,  they  came  to  the  island,  and  occupied  their  old  settlements 
in  the  year  204  before  the  birth  of  Christ.  Now  the  Romans  first 
crossed  in  the  year  60  before  the  Saviour,  as  Bede  states,  but  in  the 
decline  of  the  empire  the  Saxons  were  summoned  in  the  year  449,  when 
those  nations  were  attacking  the  Britons  abandoned  by  the  Romans,  and 
exhausted  by  the  levies  of  the  usurpers,  nor  had  the  Scots,  according 
to  Camden,  settled  in  Britain  before  that  time.  Maximus  the  usurper 
crossed  from  Britain  about  the  year  of  salvation  363  and  [defeated]  the 


NAME  OF  SCOTLAND— CANNIBALISM        385 

Emperor  Gratian,  while  these  plundering  began  immediately  afterwards, 
for  when  Maximus,  their  most  deadly  foe,  was  engaged  in  the  island  they 
would  not  have  ventured  on  these  attacks.  By  Bede's  calculation  there 
is  an  interval  of  four  hundred  and  forty-four  years  from  the  coming  of 
Caesar  to  this  year.  Now,  from  Caesar  to  Reuda,  as  Bede  calls  him, 
a  considerable  number  of  years  must  have  elapsed  :  this  period  our 
annals  make  a  hundred  and  forty-four  years,  which  is  not  a  large  number 
in  so  great  antiquity,  and  thus  the  commencement  of  our  kingdom  pre- 
cedes Camden's  reckoning  by  five  hundred  and  eighty-seven  years.  But 
our  historians  mention  five  kings  before  that  date,  whose  reigns,  they 
write,  amounted  to  one  hundred  and  thirty-four  years.  No  impartial 
reader  will  refuse  to  put  some  faith  in  these  writers,  since  all  nations 
are  very  inquisitive  about  their  own  history.  But  let  no  credence  be 
given  to  them,  let  these  hundred  and  thirty-four  years  be  cancelled,  and 
yet,  beyond  a  doubt,  this  illustrious  Antiquary  and  his  followers  will  lose 
their  case. 


De  ETIMO  NOMINIS  SCOTICI  et  ANTHROPO-« 
PHAGIA  responsum. 

Proximum  est  ut  dictator!  huic  in  re  antiquaria,  cur.  Scoti 
vocemur,  etimonc^  nominis  reddamus  oportet.  Sugillatur  doc- 
tissimus  Geo.  Buchananus  et  ignorantiae  aut  oscitantiae  argui- 
tur,  quod  hujus  viri  spem  in  hoc  fefellerit.  In  re  tarn  ardua, 
profecto  auxilium  fert  .  .  .  et  conjecturis  et  vocis  aliqua  simili- 
tudine  in  Scythiam  nos  amandat,  cum  quibus  regionibus  aut 
populis,  nihil  unquam  nobis  fuit  negocii  :  post  multa  tandem 
ex  farragine  multorum  autorum  maximam  partem  recentiorum, 
in  contumeliam  et  dedecus  nostrae  gentis  prolata,  concludit 
male  se  metuere,  ne,  quod  ad  originem  spectat,  2KOTAIOI 
semper  futuri  simus.  Magnum  certe  Antiquario  Judice 
crimen,  et  magna  nostrorum  inscitia>  qui  nunquam  adhuc 
nervos  ingenii  hue  intenderint.  At  crimen  hoc  cum  multis 
aliis  gentibus  nobis  commune;  jam  reddant  rationem  Romani 
cur  Hellenes  Grsecos,  cur  trans-Rhenanas  gentes  Germanos 
vocaverint.  Reddant  rationem  nominis  sui  Franci,  Alemanni, 
Burgundiones,  Gotthi,  Alani,  Vandali  et  innumerae  aliae  gentes, 
aut  Dictator!  huic  non  erit  satisfactum.  Ille  ipse  in  Britannia? 
etymo  misere  se  torquet.  Sed  cum  illi  cum  Luddo,  homine 
Britanno  veteris  Britanniae  linguae  (cujus  ipse  gentis  erat)  peri- 

VOL.  IT.  SB 


386         NAME  OF  SCOTLAND—  CANNIBALISM 


tissimo,  et  in  his  non  leviter  exercitato,  quic^  de  iis  de  professo 
scripsit,  non  conveniat,  nescio  quam  fidem  conjectura  ejus 
merebitur,  conjecturam  autem  suam  esse  fatetur,  nec^  quic- 
quam  certi  statuere  audet,  at  nostri  quod  non  aliquid  de  suo 
nomine  conjiciant,  quod  fortasse  nos  aliorum  ludibrio  exponat, 
homini  severe  vapulamus.  Piget  me  certe  hominis  egregie 
docti  et  de  Britannia  optime  meriti  manes  lacessere.  Sed  ad 
haec  non  respondere  est  vadimonium  deserere. 

Postremo  gentem  bane  infami  Anthropophagiae  nomine 
lancinat,  adeo  illi  solenne  nihil  praetermittere  quod  in  dedecus 
aut  contumeliam  iis  cedat,  cum  tamen  invitus  videri  \7ult  haec 
proferre,  alias  gentem  fortissimam  appellans.  quae  maledicta 
adeo  illi  familiaria  ut  toto  magno  illo  de  Britannia  opere, 
tanquam  flosculi  saepiuscule  interspersa  inveniantur.  Advo- 
•cantur  testes  hujus  sceleris  Strabo  et  Hieronymus.  Mirum  est 
hominem  tarn  profundae  eruditionis  tarn  male  sibi  constare,  ut 
Strabonem  in  partes  advocet,  cum  jampridem  asseruisset 
Scotorum  nomen  ante  Constantini  Magni  tempora  apud 
Romanes  non  inveniri,  et  si  non  apud  hos,  multo  minus  apud 
Grsecps  intelligi  vult  ;  fuit  quidem  Strabo  Asiaticus  et  graece 
scripsit  temporibus  Augusti  Caesaris,  caeterum  Romae  versatus 
ita  eorum  omnia  norat  ut  pro  Romano  liaberi  possit. 

355.       DE  ANTHROPOPHAGIA  SCOTORUM  RESPONSUM. 

At  Hyeronymus,  qui  Theodosio  minore  imperante  mortuus 
est,  vir  magni  in  sacris  nominis,  et  cui  tuto  fides  adhiberi 
possit.  periculosum  videtur  talis  viri  testimonio  obluctari,  sed 
qui  ejus  scripta  legerunt,  iracimdam  pertinaciam  tan  to  patre 
indignam  videbunt.  familiaria  contra  adversaries  maledicta, 
cujus  calami  virulenciam  non  effugit  mitissimum  Augustini 
ingenium  ;  nisi  me  memoria  fallit,  hoc  in  Gallia  accidisse  aut 
se  audivisse  testatur,  At  quinam  in  Gallia  turn  Scoti,  nisi 
fortasse  miscelli  captivi  iiq^  rari,  quorum  si  aliqui  vincula  aut 
servitium  fugientes  in  silvis  latitantes,  (nam  hoc  quoq,  item 
pater  asserit)  famis  rabie  acti,  ad  liuinanas  carnes  descenderint, 
viderint  aequi  rerum  aestimatores,  num  satis  sit  to  tarn  gentem 
hac  labe  fedare  ?  At  ab  hoc  teste  caveant  sibi  provinciales 
Britanni;  neq^  illi  hujus  linguae  petulantiam  effugerimt.  Ob 


NAME  OF  SCOTLAND— CANNIBALISM         387 

Maximi  tyranni  crimen,  quod  vel  atrocissimus  hostis  Britannis 
non  imputaverit,  terrain  illam  tyrannorum  feracem  appellat, 
cum  illi  a  Maximi  exercitu  obsessi,  coacti  fuerint  juventutem 
suam  ad  supplendas  tyranni  copias  praebere,  unde  prima  apud 
eos  rerum  inclinatio,  et  necessitas  ad  Saxonicam  perfidiam 
confugiendi  incubuit.  Tacitus,  cujus  socer  Agricola  ultra 
Taum  in  hodiernam  Angusiam  penetravit,  multa  de  hostium 
moribus,  at  nihil  tale  refert,  nec^  sequentium  aut  praecedentium 
quisquam,  quibus  illi  homines  penitius  quam  Hyeronymo 
cogniti.  Sed  haec  acroamata  convivio  philologico  indigna 
inissa  faciamus. 

Jam  de  origine  gentis  dicendum  erat,  quam  non  ultra 
Hiberniam  petimus,  ea  tanquam  omnium  consensu  certa  et 
antiqua  satis  contenti.  non  diffitemur  sicut  in  aliis  gentibus, 
multos  alienigenas  nobis  admixtos,  qui  jamdiu  in  unum  corpus 
coaluimus.  Credibile  est  multos  Pictici  sanguinis  hie  haesisse, 
a  quibus  illustris  Marescallana  domus  originem  repetit. 
Exactis  etiam  Cis-forthanis  provinces  Northumbris  Saxonibus, 
maxima  incolarum  pars  suas  sedes  tenuisse  videtur.  unde  356. 
primum  Anglici  sermonis  usus  ad  nos  fluxisse  credibile  est. 
Multi  viri  clari  cum  Milcolumbo  ad  evertendam  Macbethi 
tyrannidem  circa  Normannorum  in  Angliam  irruptionem,  hoc 
est  circa  annum  1066,  hue  confluxere,  multi  circa  eadem  tem- 
pora  Eadgarum  Athelinum  legitimum  regni  Anglici  haeredem 
cum  sorore  Margareta,  lectissima  femina  quae  postea  Mil- 
columbo nupsit,  ejus  fortunam  secuti  hue  appulere  quibus  sedes 
concessae,  ut  testantur  annales.  Hamiltoniorum  quoq^  nobilis 
et  potens  familia  Angliae  non  ita  pridem  originem  suam  debet, 
multic^  alii  quorum  nominibus  compendium  hoc  non  sufficit. 
At  trita  ilia  de  Scota  et  Gathelo  eorumc^  longinquis  peregrina- 
tionibus,  ut  historia  indigna  et  fabulosa  plane  existimo,  aut  si 
veritatis  quid  in  tantis  rerum  tenebris  lateat,  qui  in  haec 
anxius  inquisierit,  non  faciet  dignum  opera  pretium.  cui  enim 
usui  ?  aut  quis  fidem  habebit  ?  detur  sane  antiquitati  venia, 
non  enim  soli  nostri  hie  peccaverunt.  quae  natio  non  fabulosis 
exordiis  innitur,  qua  antiquitatem  ante  culturam  ingeniorum, 
et  erudita  sascula  producere  volunt  ?  Grseci  aut  se  indigenas 
haberi  volunt  aut  ad  Deos  origines  referunt.  Quis  credat 
Maroni  per  omnia  de  yEnea  Veneris  et  Anchisae  filio  Mytho- 


388         NAME  OF  SCOTLAND— CANNIBALISM 

historian!  canenti,  cum  quae  de  Didone  retulerit,  aperte  falsa 
sint?  At  Britanni  antiqui  nequaquam  hac  labe  immunes,  nec^ 
eorum  Bruto  gentis  conditori  major  fides  quam  Scotae  nostrae, 
at  cum  nos  haec  de  nostris  ingenue  rejiciamus  mirum  est,  tarn 
erudito  saeculo,  in  tanta  literarum  luce,  homines  eruditos 
reperiri  qui  huic  Bruto  faveant.  Ante  non  multos  annos 
historici  Angli  hinc  semper  exordia  annalium  sumpsere. 
Neq^  ante  Samuel  Daniel  virum  ad  historian!  texendam  in- 
primis  natum  vidi  aliquem  qui  non  has  ineptias  foveret,  cum 
357.  tamen  nihil  magis  ad  Anglorum  majores  haec  spectarent  quam 
si  Longobardi,  Gotthi,  Franci,  caeteraec^  gentes  quae  Komanum 
Imperium  inter  se  partitae  sunt,  arrogent  sibi  fortia  veterum 
Romanorum  facta.  De  Luddo,  homine  Cambro-Britanno  de 
cujus  majoribus  haec  canuntur,  minus  mirandum  est.  Caeterum 
Camdenum,  multae  eruditionis,  acris  et  limati  judicii,  a  partibus 
stare,  non  satis  mihi  satisfacio,  qui  fatetur  se  omnibus  ingenii 
nervis  annixum  ut  Bruto  huic  ejusq^  historiae  columen  adferret, 
sed  frustra,  cumc^  de  ea  re  desperaret,  nee  ea  convellere,  sed  in 
medio  intacta  relinquere. 


The  following  is  a  translation  into  English  of 
the  Latin  treating  of  the  Name   of  Scotland 
and  Cannibalism  in  Scotland. 
See  remarks  in  Preface. 

A  REPLY  about  the  DERIVATION  of  the  SCOTTISH 
NAME  and  about  CANNIBALISM. 

We  must  next  give  this  dictator  in  antiquarian  lore  the  reason  why 
we  are  called  Scots,  and  the  derivation  of  the  name.  The  most  learned 
George  Buchanan  is  vilified  and  charged  with  ignorance  or  carelessness, 
because  he  has  disappointed  the  expectations  of  this  man  in  the  matter. 
On  a  point  so  difficult  he  certainly  gives  help  ....  and  by  his  con- 
jectures and  from  some  similarity  of  sound  he  relegates  us  to  Scythia, 


TRANSLATION:  SCOTTISH  NAME— CANNIBALISM      389 

though  we  never  had  any  business  with  those  countries  or  nations :  at 
length,  after  producing  a  hash  of  many  authors,  mostly  recent,  to  insult 
and  disgrace  our  nation,  he  comes  to  the  conclusion  that  he  is  very  much 
afraid  that  as  regards  origin  we  shall  always  be  SKOTAIOI  [in  the  dark], 
A  grave  charge  undoubtedly,  since  the  Antiquary  is  the  judge,  and  great 
is  the  want  of  wit  of  our  writers  in  not  having  applied  the  powers  of  their 
intellect  to  this  subject.  But  this  charge  is  common  to  us  and  many  other 
nations.  Now  let  the  Romans  account  for  their  calling  the  Hellenes  Greeks, 
and  the  nations  dwelling  beyond  the  Rhine  Germans.  Let  the  Franks, 
the  Alemanni,  the  Burgundians,  the  Goths,  the  Alans,  the  Vandals  and 
other  nations  innumerable  account  for  their  name,  or  this  dictator  will 
not  be  satisfied.  He  himself  twists  painfully  in  the  derivation  of  Britain. 
But  though  he  disagrees  with  Llwyd,  a  Briton  deeply  versed  in  the 
ancient  British  tongue  (to  which  nation  he  belonged),  and  having  no  small 
practice  in  these  subjects,  his  guess  will  deserve  some  credit,  but  he 
acknowledges  that  it  is  his  own  guess.  Nor  does  he  venture  to  determine 
anything  for  certain ;  but  because  our  writers  do  not  make  any  con- 
jecture about  their  own  name,  which  perhaps  might  expose  us  to  the 
ridicule  of  others,  we  are  chastised  by  this  severe  person.  I  am  truly 
sorry  to  harass  the  departed  shade  of  an  extremely  learned  man,  who 
has  deserved  exceedingly  well  of  Britain.  But  to  make  no  reply  to 
these  assertions  would  be  to  forfeit  our  bail. 

Lastly,  he  harrows  this  nation  with  the  infamous  charge  of  canni- 
balism, so  usual  is  it  for  him  to  omit  nothing  that  may  be  to  their  dis- 
honour or  shame,  though,  however,  he  wants  to  appear  to  bring  this 
forward  unwillingly,  as  elsewhere  he  calls  the  Scots  a  gallant  nation. 
These  abusive  terms  are  so  familiar  to  him  that  throughout  the  whole  of 
his  great  work  on  Britain  they  are  scattered  pretty  frequently,  like 
flowers  of  speech.  Strabo  and  Jerome  are  called  as  witnesses  of  this 
crime.  It  is  strange  that  a  man  of  such  profound  erudition  should  be  so 
inconsistent  with  himself  as  to  call  Strabo  into  his  case,  when  he  had 
not  long  before  asserted  that  the  name  of  the  Scots  is  not  found  in 
Roman  writers  previous  to  the  time  of  Constantine  the  Great,  and  if  not 
in  them,  much  less  does  he  wish  it  to  be  understood  that  it  is  found 
in  Greek  writers.  Strabo  was  an  Asiatic,  and  wrote  in  Greek  at  the 
time  of  Augustus  Caesar,  but  he  lived  in  Rome,  and  thus  he  knew  all 
their  ways  so  well  that  he  may  be  considered  a  Roman. 


A  REPLY  about  the  CANNIBALISM  of  the  SCOTS. 

But  Jerome,  who  died  in  the  reign  of  the  younger  Theodosius,  was 
a  man  of  great  repute  in  sacred  matters,  and  one  who  may  be  safely 
believed.  It  seems  dangerous  to  struggle  against  the  testimony  of  such 
a  man,  but  those  who  have  read  his  writings  will  observe  a  passionate 
obstinacy,  unworthy  of  such  a  Father.  The  language  of  abuse  towards 
his  opponents  is  familiar  to  him ;  and  the  gentle  nature  of  Augustine 


390      TRANSLATION*:  SCOTTISH  NAME— CANNIBALISM 

did  not  escape  the  virulence  of  his  pen.  Unless  my  memory  deceives 
me,  he  testifies  it  was  in  Gaul  that  this  happened,  or  that  he  heard  of  it. 
But  what  Scots  were  then  in  Gaul,  unless  perhaps  mixed  captives,  and 
these  few  in  numher?  If  any  of  them,  escaping  from  prison  or  slavery, 
and  lurking1  in  the  woods  (for  the  Father  likewise  asserts  this  also),  were 
driven  by  the  pang's  of  hunger  to  resort  to  human  flesh,  let  impartial 
judges  of  actions  see  whether  this  is  sufficient  to  stigmatise  a  whole 
nation  with  such  a  blot.  But  the  provincial  Britons  must  be  on  their  guard 
against  this  witness  ;  they,  as  well,  have  not  escaped  the  wantonness  of 
his  tongue.  In  a  charge  against  the  usurper  Maximus,  which  even  their 
bitterest  foe  would  not  have  imputed  to  the  Britons,  he  calls  that  land 
fertile  in  usurpers  ;  while  they,  under  pressure  from  the  army  of  Maximus, 
were  compelled  to  give  their  young  men  to  supply  the  usurper's  forces, 
which  caused  the  first  decline  of  their  country,  and  laid  them  under  the 
necessity  of  taking  refuge  in  Saxon  treachery.  Tacitus,  whose  father- 
in-law  Agricola  penetrated  beyond  the  Tay  into  the  modern  Angus,  says 
much  about  their  manners,  but  nothing  of  that  sort,  nor  does  any  of  the 
subsequent  or  the  previous  writers,  to  whom  those  men  were  more 
intimately  known  than  to  Jerome.  But  let  us  dismiss  these  strains  as 
unworthy  of  being  heard  at  a  philological  banquet. 

Now  we  had  to  speak  of  the  origin  of  the  nation,  which  we  do  not 
trace  beyond  Ireland,  being  well  content  with  that  beginning  as,  by 
universal  consent,  certain  and  old.  We  do  not  deny  that,  as  hi  other 
nations,  many  foreigners  mixed  with  us,  but  we  have  long  been  united  in 
one  body.  We  may  believe  that  many  of  Pictish  blood  remained  here, 
from  whom  the  noble  house  of  the  Earl  Marischal  derives  its  origin.  Also, 
when  the  Northumbrian  Saxons  were  driven  out  of  the  province  south  of 
the  Forth,  the  majority  of  the  inhabitants  seem  to  have  held  their  settle- 
ments, from  which  at  first  it  is  credible  that  the  use  of  the  English 
speech  came  to  us.  Many  distinguished  men  flocked  hither  with  Malcolm 
to  overthrow  Macbeth's  usurped  power,  about  the  Norman  Invasion  of 
England,  that  is  about  the  year  1066 ;  many,  about  the  same  time, 
following  the  fortunes  of  Edgar  Atheling,  the  lawful  heir  to  the  English 
throne,  with  his  sister  Margaret,  the  excellent  lady  who  afterwards 
married  Malcolm,  landed  here,  and  to  them  settlements  were  granted, 
as  history  records.  The  noble  and  powerful  family  of  the  Hamiltons 
owes  its  origin  not  very  long  ago  to  England,  as  do  many  others  for 
whose  names  this  summary  is  not  sufficient.  But  that  well-worn  tale 
about  Scota  and  Gathelus  and  their  distant  peregrinations  I  quite 
believe  to  be  fabulous  and  unworthy  of  history,  or  if  there  is  any  truth 
hidden  in  such  obscurity  of  events,  he  who  will  inquire  anxiously  into 
the  matter  will  not  find  it  worth  his  while.  For  to  whom  is  it  of  any 
use  ?  Or  who  will  believe  it  ?  Yet  pardon  must  be  granted  to  ancient 
writers,  for  it  is  not  only  ours  that  have  erred.  What  nation  does  not 
depend  on  fabulous  beginnings,  where  men  wish  to  extend  ancient  and 
learned  ages  back  before  mental  culture  existed?  The  Greeks  either 


TRANSLATION:  SCOTTISH  NAME— CANNIBALISM      391 

wish  themselves  to  be  considered  as  indigenous  or  refer  their  origin  to 
the  gods.  Who  would  believe  Maro  in  every  particular,  as  he  sings  his 
mythic  history  of  j3£neas,  the  son  of  Venus  and  Anchises,  when  all  that  he 
relates  about  Dido  is  plainly  false  ?  But  the  ancient  Britons  are  by  no 
means  free  from  this  failing,  nor  is  the  founder  of  the  nation,  their 
Brutus,  more  historical  than  our  Scota,  and  while  we  frankly  reject  these 
stories  about  our  founders,  it  is  strange  that  in  so  learned  an  age,  and  in 
our  brilliant  literary  light,  men  of  erudition  should  be  found  to  favour 
this  Brutus.  Not  many  years  ago,  English  writers  always  began  their 
annals  with  him.  Not  before  Samuel  Daniel,  a  man  specially  qualified 
for  composing  history,  did  I  see  any  one  who  did  not  cherish  these 
absurdities,  though  they  had  no  more  to  do  with  the  ancestors  of  the 
English  than  if  the  Lombards,  the  Goths,  the  Franks,  and  the  other 
nations  which  divided  th'e  Roman  Empire  among  them  were  to  claim  for 
themselves  the  brave  deeds  of  the  ancient  Romans.  We  need  not  be  so 
much  surprised  at  Llwyd,  a  Welshman,  about  whose  ancestors  these 
things  are  sung,  but  that  Camden,  a  man  of  much  erudition,  and  of 
acute  and  polished  judgment,  should  take  aside  is  to  me  very  unsatis- 
factory, as  he  acknowledges  that  he  strove  with  all  the  powers  of  his 
intellect  to  bring  support  to  this  Brutus  and  his  history,  but  in  vain, 
and  that,  despairing  of  this,  he  does  not  pluck  it  up,  but  leaves  it  as  it 
is,  untouched. 


ANENT     the     GOVERMENT     of     SCOT- 
LAND as  it  wes  befor  the  late  troubles. 

It  was  Monarchicall  from  the  beginning,  nor  will  it  be 
found  be  any  record  or  memorie,  that  the  people  at  the 
beginning  choose  ane  Prince  ovir  themselvis,  but  our  histories 
universally  agrie  that  Fergus  as  ane  absolute  King  came 
first  out  of  Yrland  with  his  people  as  subjects  to  him  and 
seated  himself  and  them  in  the  West  and  North  parts  of 
Scotland  untouched  be  Pichts,  Who  had  not  then  suffi- 
cient numbers  to  possess  all,  altho  they  entered  this  Yle 
before  us. 

They  brocht  with  them  or  being  heir,  necessitie  drew  upon 
them  the  law  of  Tanistrie,  they  being  a  rogh,  rude  people, 
knowing  litle  of  civilitie,  but  altogether  barbarous,  with 
armis  ever  in  thair  hands  as  is  the  use  of  the  hielands  even  to 
this  day.  the  law  of  Tanistrie  wes  that  a  Prince  dying  and  358. 
leaving  behind  him  children  in  minority,  unfit  be  thair  non- 
age to  rule  and  governe,  the  neerest  male  of  the  blood  royall, 


392          THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  SCOTLAND 

who  wes  of  perfyt  age,  tooke  the  government  upon  him  not  as 
tutor  but  with  full  power  and  in  his  owne  name,  during  his 
Lifetime,  to  whom  wer  to  succeed  not  his  owne  children,  but 
the  children  of  the  defunct  Prince,  to  whom  he  had  succeeded 
during  his  owne  lyfetime,  but  ambition  caus'd  many  to  pervert 
and  to  keep  or  strive  to  keep  the  royall  power  to  his  awn 
children,  secluding  oftymes  the  true  heyr,  whereupon  division 
and  much  blood  oftyms  fell  out,  whilk  weakened  the  whole 
nation,  very  much,  for  thois  who  syded  on  the  one  and  the 
uthir  partis,  being  great  men,  and  being  fleshed  in  blood,  it 
made  irreconciliable  hatreds  amongs  them,  which  oftyms 
ended  not  without  rooting  out  of  whole  races,  this  forme  of 
proceeding  made  the  kings  be  oftyms  evil  and  soberlie  obeyed. 
This  wes  innovat  be  universal  consent,  and  it  wes  appoynted, 
the  true  heyr  ever  to  succeed,  who  in  minoritie  wes  to  be 
governed  be  designed  men  nominat  be  the  State,  but  all 
thing  managed  in  the  Prince's  name  as  lawful  king 

Altho  we  find  not  in  the  whol  progress  of  our  histories, 
that  we  wer  ever  governed  be  a  woman  as  Queen,  befor  Queen 
Mary  mother  to  K.  James,  yet  it  is  most  cleer  and  evident, 
altogether  uncontroverted,  that  the  succession  went  by  the 
femals,  as  many  occasions  testifie  in  our  histories,  specially 
after  the  death  of  Alexander  the  third  the  succession  favored 
the  king  of  Norway  Magnus  his  daughter,  be  whose  death,  the 
woful  stryf  came  on  betwix  Balliol,  Bruce  &c  who  were  all  of 
the  issue  of  David  Earl  of  Huntingtoun,  and  all  thair  Clayms 
be  the  feminin  blood. 

As  the  goverment  wes  Monarchical,  so  all  things  wer  done 
in  the  name  and  be  authoritie  flowing  from  the  king  as 
Supream  head  ovir  all,  but  so  as  in  matters  of  great  and  uni- 
versall  ooncernment,  matters  wer  advysed  be  a  Convention  of 
359.  the  heads  of  the  Churche  Bischops  and  Abbots  who  under 
name  of  Prelats  made  up  ane  estat,  then  the  Nobilitie,  in  older 
tyms  the  Thanis  and  Abthans  and  governors  of  provinces 
whose  Offices  and  power  is  now  very  obscur  to  us.  but  after 
following  the  forme 1  England  we  began  to  have  Earles,  Lords, 


1  The  word  'of  after  '  forme'  is  in  the  MS.  from  which  Macfarlane's  tran- 
scriber copied. — ED. 


BEFORE  THE  LATE  TROUBLES  393 

Barons,  and  later  Vicounts.  Duks  Marquises.  Knights  wer 
ane  verie  old  and  honorable  Order,  ever  confefd  upon  militarie 
men,  but  it  went  not  to  posterity  without  merit,  nor  do  I 
think  that  ever  as  Knights,  they  had  place  in  that  Supreme 
and  hie  Convention,  the  third  Estate  wes  composed  of  Com- 
missioners from  cities  touns,  burrows  royall  who  held  of  the 
King.  This  wes  to  mak  a  distinction  betwixt  burrows  royall 
and  thois  towns  who  held  thair  lands  and  towns  of  the 
vChurche  under  the  name  of  a  regalitie  whereby  they  wer  alto- 
gither  exeemed  fra  the  king  and  all  power  of  his  Officiars  both 
in  civill  and  criminal  causis. 

There  wes  yet  sum  places  who  had  the  priviledge  to  be  a 
•burgh  of  baronie,  who  might  have  magistrates  within  them- 
-selvis  for  governing  in  civil  matters  but  not  in  criminal,  they 
might  have  manuel  trads  and  artisans,  buy  and  sell  countrey 
commoditeis,  but  they  had  no  libertie  to  trade  out  of  the 
•countrey  neyther  be  transporting  any  commodities  out  of  the 
•countrey,  nor  be  bringing  any  home,  that  being  reserved  to 
the  burrows  royall,  but  they  might  buy  fra  citizens  of  burrows 
.royall,  and  sell  be  retayl. 

Thir  burrowis  of  regalitie  and  of  baronie,  had  nothing  to 
doe  in  the  cheef  Convention  of  the  Stats  cald  a  Parliament. 
Aftir  this  King  James  the  6  about  the  year  1600 l  took  into 
the  Parliament  the  inferior  nobilitie,  who  held  thair  lands 
immediatly  of  the  Crown  be  service  of  ward  and  releef  or 
blanche  or  feu,2  who  wes  at  every  Parliament  to  choose  their 
vCommissi oners  according  to  their  Shyrs  and  to  send  a  Com- 
missioner or  two  fra  every  Shyr  to  attend  the  Parliament, 
and  thair  to  make  up  the  fourt  Estate,  but  so  as  every  Shyr 
.had  one  voyce  altho  they  had  more  Commissioners  than  one. « 
thois  of  this  fourt  order  in  Parliament,  who  wer  vassals  or 


1  '  1587.  Parl,  ii.  c.  113'  is  a  marginal  note  on  the  Macfarlane  MS.  It  is  also 
..given  as  a  marginal  note  in  the  MS.  from  which  Macfarlane's  transcriber  copied, 
which  MS.  is  believed  to  be  in  Sir  Robert  Gordon's  script,  but  this  marginal 
.note  is  in  a  different  script,  being  that  of  the  person  whose  answers  to  R.  G.'s 
•queries  are  given  in  a  paper  in  the  Sibbald  Topographical  Notices,  immediately 
preceding  the  paper  '  Anent  the  Government  of  Scotland,  etc.' — ED. 

2  In  the  MS.  from  which  Macfarlane's  transcriber  copied,  the  words  '  or  feu  ' 
.are  an  interlineation  in  the  same  handwriting  as  that  referred  to  in  the  foregoing 
•footnote. — ED. 


394     THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  SCOTLAND 

fewars  to  the  Churche,  had  no  part  in  that  election  and  so  of 
thois  who  wer  vassels  or  fewars  under  or  to  the  nobilitie,  it 
being  presupposed  that  thois  of  the  nobilitie,  of  whom  they 
held  tliair  lands,  represented  them  and  so  of  the  vassals  or 
fewars  of  the  Church  also,  yea  be  all  reason  thois  who  held 
thir  lands  of  the  King  in  few,  being  onlie  unremovable  ten- 
nents,  should  not  have  made  any  part  of  that  order,  for  it 
wes  given  onlie  to  thois  of  the  inferior  nobilitie  whose  lands 
carried  the  name  of  a  baronie  or  wer  infeft  with  libertie  and 
priviledge  of  a  frie  baronie.  The  Act  of  Parliament  calls 
them  frie  holders,  and  so  anie  holding  of  the  King  feu  may  be 
elected  Commissioner  yea  this  was  extended  to  these  that 
holds  of  the  Prince  when  he  is  Minor  as  Warestoune  hold- 
ing of  the  Prince,  was  found  to  be  lawfullie  chosen  Com- 


missioner.1 

Thir  four  Estates  upon  lawful  citation  and  Indytment  from 
the  King,  made  up  the  body  of  a  Parliament,  without  whose 
express  order,  it  wes  never  dreamed  that  a  Parliam.  could 
be,  or  without  himself  present,  or  else  a  Commissioner  from 
him  with  full  power  to  that  effect  or  in  his  minoritie,  his 
regent,  who  being  be  Estats  lawfully  elected,  presided  in 
Parliament,  and  moderated  all. 

This  wes  the  forme  constantlie  observed  unto  the^dethroning 
of  Queen  Mary  be  the  Earl  of  Murray,  who  usurped  that 
place  first  of  all  be  vertue  of  letters  extorted  from  her  in 
prison. 

But  that  whiche  wes  done  in  civill  troubles  whair  dyvers 
factions  strove  to  domineer,  gives  no  lawful  authoritie,  to  draw 
such  a  fact  to  be  a  precedent  to  futur  tyms,  which  all  honest 
men  detest  to  this  day. 

What   number   of  every  Estate  wes   requisit  to    mak  the 

meeting  to  be  called  a  parliament,  wes  never  determined  yit 

be  any  ordinance,  but  be  reason  it  wes  presupposed  the  greater 

861-  part  of  every  Estate  wes  needfull  togider  with  the  Official's  of 

the  Crown  of  whom  we  shall  speak  after,     it  is  not  needfull 


1  In  the  MS.  from  which  Macfarlane's  transcriber  copied,  all  the  foregoing 
sentence  is  in  the  form  of  a  marginal  note,  in  the  same  handwriting  as  that 
referred  to  in  note  I,  p.  393. — ED. 


BEFORE  THE  LATE  TROUBLES  395 

to  remember  how  disorderlie  things  wer  caried  in  the  tyme  of 
Queen  Mary,  and  the  Minoritie  of  King  James,  when  two 
pairties  wer  in  arm  is  under  the  name  of  King  and  Queen, 
who  both  held  Parliaments  with  such  infrequencie  of  the 
Estates  as  wes  wonderfull,  and  dyvers  taken  of  the  streets,  to 
bear  the  names,  and  places  of  Bishopes  for  that  tym.  But 
none  took  the  hardiment  to  engross  thois  tumultuarie  Parlia- 
ments in  the  register  so  that  no  memorie  of  them  is  extant 
beyound  the  record  of  historic,  and  justly  might  they  be 
ashamed  of  such  proceedings,  for  in  one  of  them,  be  an 
ordinance  they  depryved  the  Queen  Regente  King  James 
Grandmother  of  all  power  and  authoritie  so  far  as  in  them  did 
ly,  but  no  man  regarded  it. 

I  wold  not  have  spoken  so  much  of  thois  tumultuous  tymes, 
if  I  had  not  found  sum  sparkles  of  them  yit  remayning, 
which  perhaps  may  in  aftertymes  l  which  I  perceave 

thus. 

After  the  murther  of  King  Charles  the  first,  the  remaynder 
of  thois  who  had  usurped  the  State,  fell  in  division,  and  many 
good  men  perceaving  how  some  few  of  the  nobilitie  who  had 
bene  pryme  Covenanters  with  thair  adherents,  intended  to 
usurp  the  Estate,  fell  in  miscontentment  aganis  them,  and  drew 
up  a  band  to  be  subscryved  be  all  who  hated  such  ane  usurpa- 
tion, very  many  wer  ready  to  have  assisted,  and  the  matter 
wes  in  progress,  thir  intended  Usurpers  finding  they  were  not 
able  to  carye  thair  poynt,  fearing  to  be  thrust  out,  projected 
the  bringing  in  of  Charles  the  Second  who  wes  in  the  Low 
Countreys,  this  they  knew  would  be  pleasing  to  all,  as  indeed 
it  wes,  thair  subtiltie  wes  that  they  and  thair  creatures, 
(specially  thois  of  the  Ministerie  who  wer  devoted  fusly  [sic]  to  . 
them,  be  whom  ever  before  they  had  caried  great  matters  in 
the  State)  should  undertake  that  matter  of  so  great  concern- 
ment, so  they  sent  to  him  and  treated  with  him  upon  his 
returne  and  the  conditions  therof  for  be  thair  project  he  wes 
not  to  succeed  to  his  father  con  forme  to  the  fundamental  lawis 


1  The  word  left  out  here  appears  to  be  'revive.'  In  the  MS.  from  which 
Macfarlane's  transcriber  copied,  it  is  written  on  the  margin,  but  is  nearly 
concealed  by  the  binding.— ED. 


396  THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  SCOTLAND 

of  the  realme,  but  a  power  limitat  be  them,  which  at  his 
coronation  they  show  weel  as  the  papers  printed  by  themselvis 
doe  testifie,  wherein  they  doe  no  less  than  reduce  the  succession 
to  election,  he  having  seen  thair  letters  and  heard  thair 
messingers,  wryteth  bak,  whairin  amang  uthir  things,  he 
upbraydeth  them  in  a  fair  manner  and  layeth  to  thair  charge 
that  they  had  usurped  upon  his  father  dyvers  things  incon- 
sistent with  any  power  they  could  lawfully  have  or  ever  had, 
specially  that  they  had  holden  Parliaments  without  authoritie 
or  allowance  from  his  father,  seing  they  had  no  commission,  no 
Commissionar  from  him  whilk  could  not  be  excuse  or  pretext 
of  a  triennall  parliament  which  could  not  be  lawfull  without 
Commissionars  from  him  to  preside  thair,  whair  thair  pre- 
sidents of  thair  everlasting  continued  parliaments,  war  of 
thair  owne  creation,  and  such  people  and  so  unfit  for  so  great 
a  charge  as  his  royall  father  wold  never  have  entrusted  so 
great  a  charge. 

This  puzzeled  them  mightelye  how  to  replye,  but  having 
long  befor  cast  of  all  lawfull  obedience,  wer  not  ashamed  to 
alledge  that  his  Matie  King  Charles  the  Secund  was  ill  informed 
of  Scottish  governement,  that  it  wes  lawfull  to  them  to  hold 
Parliaments  without  any  power  or  Commissionar  and  that 
to  deny  that,  wes  to  subvert  a  very  fundamental  1  law  of 
the  kingdom.  To  verifie  thair  alledgeance  they  show  how  in 
the  year  1560.  they  had  holden  a  Parliement,  and  done  many 
things  therin,  a  copy  of  this  letter  I  have  besyd  me,  and  I 
doubt  not,  but  many  ar  extant  thairof. 

When  I  had  considered  this,  I  looked  our  Acts  of  Parlia- 
ment which  ar  the  greatest  part  of  our  Municipall  lawis,  but 
363.  not  a  word  of  any  Parliam.  thair,  holden  in  1560.  but  therin 
is  engrossed  the  last  Parliament  halden  be  Queen  Mary 
dowager  and  Regent  as  she  is  ther  designed,  the  29  of 
November  1558.  after  which  tym  the  tumults  wer  so  great 
as  all  things  wer  in  a  horrible  confusion  and  no  forme  of 
lawful  governement  remayned  unto  the  return  of  Queen  Mary 
out  of  France. 

Her  first  Parliament  is  holden  the  4  of  June  1563.  and  the 
first  act  therof  is  ane  act  of  oblivion,  pardoning  all  disorders 
and  transgression  of  the  lawis  fra  the  6  March  1558  to  the 


BEFORE  THE  LATE  TROUBLES  397 

first  of  September  1561.  Let  any  man  judge  whither  or  no, 
the  alledged  Parliament  of  1560  be  in  that  role  of  trespasses 
pardoned  in  the  act  of  oblivion. 

But  the  Architects  of  so  great  villanies  finding  thair  doings 
wold  come  under  censur  of  posteritie,  they  proceed  as  they 
had  begun,  they  seas  upon  Queen  Mary,  put  her  in  closs 
prison  in  Lochlevin,  extorts  from  her  a  dimission  of  her  regal 
power  (the  narrative  bearing  that  sho  doth  it,  being  wearied 
therof,  the  habilitie  of  her  body  and  weaknis  yrof  not  being 
able  any  longer  to  endur  the  same)  indeed  sho  could  not 
otherways  be  for  it,  wes  the  twentie  fourt  year  of  her  age  the 
Earle  of  Murray  is  named  be  her,  Regent,  this  done  24  Julie 
1567.  He  holds  a  parliament  15  December  1567  and  theirin 
ratifies  ane  act  made  in  the  Parliament  24  August  1560  and 
statuts  the  said  act  to  stand  as  a  law,  anent  abolishing  the 
Pope  and  his  usurped  autoritie  and  another  Act  annulling 
the  Acts  of  Parliam.  made  aganis  Gods  word  and  mantenance 
of  idolatrie  in  tyms  pasM  made  in  the  sayd  parliament. 
Remarq^  heer  he  ratifieth  the  Acts  made  in  1560.  and  calls  it 
a  Parliament,  but  the  Parliament,  which  of  all  had  need  of 
ratification  and  to  be  declared  lawfull  stands  pretermitted, 
and  lyeth  under  the  Act  of  oblivion,  nor  wer  they  evir  yit  so  364. 
hardy  as  that  it  should  cum  out  among  our  lawis,  yea  if 
reason  wer  looked  unto,  this  Parliament  of  1567  wes  equally 
lawfull  with  that  of  1560.  O  tempora,  O  mores. 

Let  upright  judicious  men  consider  whither  or  no,  our 
people  the  recallers  of  King  Charles  the  secund  defended 
themselvis  soundlie  and  conform  to  our  lawis  aganis  his 
objection. 

But  to  return,  to  our  principal  intention.  This  great  Con- 
vention being  supream  and  above  all  uthir  courts,  in  whom 
resided  the  power  of  peice  and  warr,  and  of  al  concernments  in 
reference  to  the  publict  eyther  to  enact  lawis,  or  revive  lawis 
out  of  use  or  to  abolishe  standing  ordinances,  wherunto  all 
wer  subject,  yea  the  Ecclesiastiques  also  as  who  peruseth  the 
historic,  and  old  statuts  sal  easielie  find,  depended  wholly 
upon  the  Prince,  as  shalbe  sayd. 

Indeed  commonlie  the  first  act  wes  a  ratification  of  the 
liberties  and  priviledges :  of  the  holy  Kirk  so  the  styl  ran, 


398     THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  SCOTLAND 

but  who  so  looketh,  will  find  them  courbed  and  forbidden  of 
many  excesses  specially  of  going  to  Rome  and  thair  getting 
provision  of  benefices.  Which  were  at  the  Kings  presenta- 
tion, wherin  for  the  most,  altho  they  sped  at  Rome,  they  wer 
so  cros'd  at  home,  that  seldom  made  they  great  benefit  unles 
they  wer  upheld  be  great  friends  and  found  favour  with  the 
Prince.  The  Bishops  as  the  Kings  barons  wer  first  cited 
in  the  roles  of  the  Sherifs  head  courts,  and  thois  who  had 
regalities,  wer  to  proceed  be  thair  Baylies  conform  to  the 
kings  lawis  in  omnibus. 

Now  the  Convening  of  this  Supreme  Court,  depended  upon 
the  Prince  he  onlie  appoynted  the  tyme,  the  place,  in  his  hand 
wes  to  prorogat  or  dismiss  it,  as  he  faund  expedient 

When  they  wer  conveened,  the  first  action  they  did  wes  to 
draw  out  a  select  number  of  eight  persons  from  the  whole 
number  of  every  Estate  who  wer  called  the  Lords  of  the 
Articles,  in  whose  hands  resided  the  greatest  part  of  the  whole 

S65.  busines.  this  was  done  to  facilitate  the  action  and  to  eschew 
confusion  which  otherways  could  not  be  avoyded. 

Thair  election  wes  thus.  The  wholl1  order  of  the  Church, 
whairof  thair  were  not  many  in  all,  did  elect  eight  out  of  the 

..  noblemen,  and  the  wholl  Noblemen  elected  8  Churchmen,2  and 
thois  sixteen  conjunctly  elected  eight  out  of  the  Commissioners 
of  the  burrowis  and  the  lyk  number  of  the  Commissioners  of 
the  Inferior  Nobilitie  called  the  Barons,  after  they  wer  taken 
in  as  ane  Estate  in  whose  hands  indeed  resided  the  whole 
power  and  strenth  of  the  kingdome  both  for  numbers  and 
wealth;  to  whom  wer  joyned  the  seven  Officers  of  Estate.3 

Thir  Lords  of  the  Articles  conveened  togither,  and  took 
special  notice  of  all  things  wes  to  be  agitat  in  that  hie  Court, 
every  man  who  had  interest,  had  libertie  to  give  in  to  the 
Clerk  of  the  Register  whatsoever  they  thoch  fitt,  eyther  of 


1  In  the  MS.  from  which  Macfarlane's  transcriber  copied,  the  words  'The 
wholl'  are  interlined  in  substitution  for  the  words  'eight  of  the,'  which  are  de- 
leted.   The  words  interlined  are  in  the  script  referred 'to  in  note  I,  p.  393. — ED. 

2  The  words  '  and  the  wholl  Noblemen  elected  8  Churchmen  '  are  in  a  marginal 
note  in  the  original  MS.  in  the  script  referred  to  in  note  I,  p.  393. — ED. 

3  The  words  '  to  whom  were  joyned  the  seven  Officers  of  Estate '  are  an  inter- 
lineation in  the  original  MS.  in  the  script  referred  to  in  no.te  I,  p.  393. — ED. 


BEFORE  THE  LATE  TROUBLES  399 

publict  concernment  or  particulars  of  thair  awne.  ther  papers 
and  petitions  vver  be  him  presented  to  the  great  Committee  of 
the  Lords  of  the  Articles,  who  considdered  what  was  fit  to  be 
proponed  in  full  Parliament,  and  to  go  to  voyces,  or  to  be 
rejected. 

Mean  whyle  this  was  a  doing,  the  full  Parliament  con- 
veened  not,  nor  wes  thair  any  necessitie  of  it,  but  all  particular 
men,  who  had  ther  owne  busines  to  do,  wer  extreemly 
vigilant  solliciting  for  themselves  or  thair  friends,  as  need 
required. 

Assuredlie  the  simplicitie  of  old  knew  not  this  forme  of 
procedure  and  it  took  beginning,  when  business  began  to 
tnultiplie,  in  former  ages  they  lacked  not  understanding  of 
what  they  had  to  doe,  yea  thair  action  wes  far  above  after 
tyms,  but  thair  simplicitie  in  proceeding  yit  substantiall 
«neugh,  differed  far  from  the  later  tymes,  as  the  few  records 
extant  do  testifie,  wherof  the  eldest  in  Parliament  matters 
begin  in  the  year  1004.  in  the  tyme  of  Malcolme  Mackenneth 
•called  Malcolme  the  secund. 

All  things  being  rypejtied,  advysed  and  put  in  order,  which 
wer  found  fit  to  be  proponed  in  Parliament,  a  solemne  day 
wes  sett,  wherin  the  whole  body  of  the  estats  conveened,  went  366. 
from  thair  awne  houses,  but  not  in  forme  of  a  publict  conven- 
tion, but  severally  as  occasion  wes,  to  the  pallace  or  place  of 
residence  of  the  Prince,  attended  his  coming  furth,  then  all 
apparelled  in  long  roabs  appointed  for  that  use,  took  horses, 
which  wer  of  the  best  they  could  have,  set  furth  with  foot 
mantels  and  caparasons  conform,  attended  with  thair  foot- 
grooms  weel  apparelled,  rode  every  man  keeping  his  own 
place  (the  crowne  scepter  and  the  sword  being  carried  be 
noblemen  of  speciall  noat,  deput  therunto.  immediatlie  before 
the  King  himself) l  and  accompanied  his  Matie  to  the  Parlia- 
ment hous.  Whair  they  wer  receaved  first  be  guard  appoynted 
be  the  Constable  of  the  kingdome,  whose  office  wes  to  command 
that  utter  gard,  then  to  another  gward  appoynted  be  the 
Marshall  of  the  kingdome,  to  attend  the  entries  within  and 


1  The  words  '  immediatlie  before  the  King  himself  are  in  a  marginal  note  in 
the  original  MS.  in  the  script  referred  to  in  note  I,  p.  393. — ED. 


400     THE  GOVERNMENT  OF  SCOTLAND 

neerest  the  place  of  sitting,  and  so  being  all  entered,  every 
Estate  went  to  places  and  rowms  appoynted  for  them,  and 
thairin  wer  seated  according  to  thair  order,  the  noblemen,  the 
Ecclesiastiques.  after  them  the  Commissionars  from  burrowis, 
and  from  every  shyre  in  name  of  the  Barons,  thois  wer  seated 
and  cald  up  in  voycing  acording  to  the  dignitie  of  the  burrow 
or  shyr,  whiche  they  did  represent. 

The  king  wes  placed  above  all  in  an  eminent  place  to  be 
seen  and  heard  of  all,  with  the  crown  and  scepter  upon  a  table 
befor  him.  at  his  feet1  the  Chauncelar  a  litle  thairfra  the 
Marshall  and  Constable  at  a  small  table,  and  hard  by  the 
Clerk  of  the  Register  with  his  under  Clerks  at  ane  table  on  the 
other  side.2  Who  had  all  papers  and  roles  necessarie  by  him, 
and  wes  to  put  in  record  all  wes  done,  and  wes  to  keep  reconing 
of  voyces  in  all  matters  proponed. 

The  principal  herald  called  Lyon,  king  of  armis  with  his 
principal  substituts  as  Ros.  herald  Merchman  herald,  Snowdoun 
heralds  &c  attended  the  action  with  maces  in  thair  hands  to- 
sie  good  order  and  silence  keep'd  in  all  things,  and  to  receave 
commands  as  wes  needfull  to  be  done. 

S67.  Then  after  silence,  the  King  spake  to  the  whole  Assemblie 
showing  to  them  the  causes  of  conveening  them,  and  the 
necessitie  therof  and  that  he  desyred  thair  advyse  thairin,  this- 
being  delyvered  after  a  princelie  forme  in  few  words,  the 
Chaunceler  arose  and  followed  out  the  Kings  Speeche  more 
fully,  relating  and  amplyfying  such  particular  heads  as  touched 
the  publict  most. 

Then  command  wes  gevin  to  the  Clerk  of  the  register  to- 
read  out  such  things  as  the  Lords  of  the  Articles  faund  fitt  to- 
come  befor  the  Parliament,  and  to  be  voyced,  so  first  one  wes- 
red  out  in  few  words  and  licence  gevin  to  such  as  wold,  to- 
speak  in  the  affirmative  or  negative  therof,  but  so  as  it  wes  to- 
be  done  in  few  words,  that  confusion  should  not  aryse,  after 
silence  it  wes  put  to  voyces,  whair  every  voyce  wes  gathered, 


1  The  words  'at  his  feet'  are  an  interlineation  in  substitution  for  the  deleted 
words  'near  him,'  and  they  are  in  what  is  believed  to  be  Sir  Robert  Gordon's 
script.— ED. 

2  The  words  '  with  his  under  Clerks  at  ane  table  on  the  other  side '  are  an 
interlineation  in  the  script  referred  to  in  note  I,  p.  393.— ED. 


BEFORE  THE  LATE  TROUBLES  401 

they  being  all  obliged  to  answear  to  the  matter  proponed 
eyther  assenting  or  disassenting  which  being  compared  to- 
gither,  so  it  stood  or  wes  rejected. 

What  could  not  be  perfyted  that  day,  wes  remitted  to  the 
nixt,  and  so  matters  proceeded  to  the  end  of  all. 

All  things  proceeded  in  forme  of  petitions,  the  subjects 
called  in  thair  styl  the  lieges  petitioned  the  Prince  that  such 
and  such  things  as  wer  carried  through  be  pluralitie  of  voyces, 
sould  be  enacted  to  stand  as  lawis,  who  if  he  assented,  touched 
the  paper  presented  to  him,  with  his  scepter,  or  if  he  did  not 
so,  it  wes  layd  by,  altho  be  voyces  it  had  bein  sufficient,  this 
wes  called  his  Maties  negative  voyce,  a  mark  of  suprem  and 
full  power  and  soverayntie. 

If  so  his  Matie  had  any  thing  to  demand  of  the  subjects  as  a 
stibsidie  or  any  thing,  he  stood  in  need  of,  which  required  to 
be  done  and  caried  be  consent  of  Parliament,  it  wes  put  to 
voyces  also  and  resolved  accordinglie  in  the  affirmative  or 
negative. 

All  things  that  wer  done,  wer  recorded  be  the  Clerk  of 
the  Register  and  drawn  up  in  forme  of  acts. 

We  find  of  old  nothing  in  the  publict  monuments  but  such  i. 
as  had  reference  to  the  publict,  but  afterward  dyvers  things 
handeled  that  wer  of  privat  concernment,  ovir  and  above  for- 
faltours,  which  wer  ever  done  in  Parliament :  yea  of  late 
private  matters  handeled  in  Parliament  cam  to  such  a  multi- 
plicitie,  that  they  farr  exceeded  all  publict  acts,  they  came  to- 
such  a  height,  that  dyvers  privat  men  wer  greatly  wronged 
therein  be  confirmations,  ratifications  dispensations,  Wherein 
mony  who  had  entres,  not  knowing  what  wes  doing,  receaved 
manifest  wrong,  wharupon  one  of  the  last  Acts  wes  added, 
that  all  such  privat  dealing  wes  to  be  allowed  Salvo  Jure 
cujuslibet. 

When  al  wes  ended,  and  the  Parliament  dissolved,  all  the 
acts  wer  solemnie  read  and  proclaimed  at  the  mercat  croce  of 
Edinburgh  as  the  capitall  town  of  the  Kingdome,  be  sound  of 
trumpet  and  after  fourtie  days  in  which  space  notice  might 
come  to  all  men,  al  the  subjects  wer  lyable  to  obedience. 


VOL.  n.  9.  c 


402  FIFE 

DESCRIPTIONES  LATINJB. 

AD  TABULAM  FIF^E. 

Vetustissimi  regionis  hujus  incolae  agnoscuntur  Picti,  qui 
buscum  Dani  de  ejus  possessione  rem  habuere,  quod  vero 
simile  situs  ejus  videtur  facere,  tribus  partibus  mari  et  fretij 
clausae;  ipsam  fcelici  solo  allexisse  praedatores  hos  hand  dubium, 
qui  tamen  inde  depulsi,  et  Pictis  possessa,  nam  a  Pictis  in  jura 
Scotica  cum  eorum  regno  concessit. 

Vetus  nomen  Picticum  ignoratur,  nam  Rossiae  nomen  a 
Scotis  habuisse  vero  propius  est,  cum  ea  vox  prisci  sermonis 
genuina,  insulam  aut  Chersonesum  significat.  At  Fifae  nomer 
recentius  a  Fifo  MacDuffo  potentissimo  ejus  Comite 
memoratur. 

Forma  linguae  bubulae  duobus  aestuariis  Forthae  et  Tao  in- 
terjecta:  ad  occidentem,  qua  reliquo  continent!  adnectitur, 
Sterlinensem  agrum,  Vicecomitatum  qui  vulgo  Clakmannan- 
shyr  et  Comitatum  Palatinum  lerniae  vicinos  habet.  Longi- 
tude, a  Culrossia  ad  extremum  orientem  juxta  Carelium 
oppidum,  triginta  duo  milliaria  nostratia  amplectitur  quae  vel 
Anglica  vel  Italica  longe  excedunt.  Latitude  a  Kingornia 
usque  Abrenethiam  ad  Taum  quatuordecim  excedit. 

Aer  beneficio  maris,  mitis  clemensc^;  multasc^  regiones 
videre  est  magis  ad  austrum  vergentes,  longe  magis  frigoribus, 
nivibus  et  caeli  rigori  obnoxias  quae  vel  montibus  obsepiuntur, 
vel  mari  absunt ;  ac  omnem  hyemis  saevitiem  depellit  immensa 
et  inexhausta  carbonum  fossilium  copia,  unde  commodissime 
habitatur,  et  magna  incolarum  frequentia. 

Solum  hie  frugiferum  et  frugibus  accomodum  benigne 
reddit  triticum,  hordeum,  secale,  avenam ;  omnigena  quoq^ 
legumina  quae  climati  ei  quadrare  possunt.  neq^  hortensium 
fructuum  expers ;  ubicunc^  agri  longius  mari  aut  fluminibus, 
montibus  frigidioribus  subsunt,  hos  incolarum  industria, 
O.  stercoratione  praecipue  calcis,  (cujus  hie  ingens  copia  ex  saxis 
calcareis  coquitur)  uberiores  reddit. 

Magnum  foenus  dominis  quotannis  redit  a  venis  carbonum 
fossilium  qui  multis  locis  e  terrae  visceribus  effodiuntur,  et 


FIFE  403 

cum  lucro  exteris  distralmntur.  Maximae  horum  fodinae  in 
austral!  littore  reperiuntur,  quorum  beneficio  ingens  sails 
candidissimi  vis  quotidie  excoquitur,  qui  praeter  cotidianos 
usus,  apud  exteros  distrahitur.  Mensibus  quoc^  Augusto  et 
Septembri  halecum  copiosa  in  vicino  littore  piscatura,  quae 
plebem  maritimorum  oppidorum  exercet. 

Montes  nominatissimi  Ocelli,  veteribus  non  incogniti,  qui 
praecingunt  occiduam  provinciae  hujus  oram,  earnc^  longo  tractu 
ab  lernia  dividunt  nec^  illi  alti,  nec^  asperi,  ubic^  fere  culturam 
patiuntur,  aut  herbidis  vallibus  pecori  apti  sunt.  In  ipsa 
regione  cliversi  colles  hue  illuc  se  diffundunt,  amcenis  et  frugi- 
feris  planis  distincti,  et  in  campos  diffusi.  Ubi  attolluntur 
di  versa  nomina  sortiti.  Unde  ad  australe  Falcolandiae  regii 
secessus  arcis  cum  adjuncto  oppido,  mons  bicornis  se  tollit,  qui 
Lomundiae  nomen  habet.  alius  lacubus  Levino  et  Orro  inter- 
jectus  Bineartie  dictus.  Normans-law  despicit  Tai  aestuarium 
hand  procul  Bambricha  dissitus.  quae  partes  eurum  aut  ortum 
hyemalem  respiciunt  habent  montes  Largo-law,  Kelly-law, 
Dunoter-law,  Logy-law,  Duncarro-law. 

Fluminibus  irrigatur — Edino  non  incognito  veteribus  quern 
Ptol.  Tinam  nominat,  cujus  fontes  habentur  in  vivario  Fal- 
-colandiae,  ibi  enim  fluvius  ille  primum  Edini  nomen  asciscit, 
•quanquam  Miglus  fluvius  longe  supra  eum  fontes  in  Ocellis 
montibus  babeat,  a  Falcolandia  per  amoenam  et  cultam 
planitiem  delapsus.  Cupram  urbem  alluit,  inde  circiter  duum 
millium  passuum  intervallo,  recepto  circa  ostia  prius  fluviolo  $71. 
Motri  ad  arctum  ab  Andreapoli  miscetur  oceano,  navium 
propter  brevia  baud  patiens. 

Levinus  e  lacu  ejusdem  nominis  profluens,  in  quern  Cuichi 
nomine  duo  influunt  flumina,  tertius  Garni  us,  post  emissarium 
lacus  fluvius  jam  Levini  nomine  insignis,  recta  ab  occasu  in 
ortum  means.  Oro  et  Lochtio  receptis,  ad  oppidum  quod  a 
Levini  ostiis  nomen  habet,  aestuario  Forthae  miscetur. 

Hujus  regionis  incola?,  habitu,  moribus  culti,  si  qui  alii  toto 
regno,  belli  pacisq^  artium  gnari,  industrii,  inter  se  Concordes; 
australis  ora,  portuum  frequentium  beneficio,  maritimis 
negotiationibus  ut  plurimum  exercetur,  unde  navium  non 
exigua  illis  copia;  qui  multis  et  audacibus  et  peritis  naucleris 
instruct!,  exteras  oras,  nunquam  non  lucri  gratia,  frequentant. 


404  FIFE 

In  his  oris  juxta  Carreliam  urbem  pugnatum  est  anno  874 
contra  Danos  quos  Hungar  et  Hubba  ducebant,  ubi  Constan- 
tinus  Scotorum  Rex,  ab  immani  hoste  captus  et  capite  trim- 
catus  est. 

Succedentibus  annis  Gulielmus  Wallace  fortissimus  heros  el 
nostrae  libertatis  difficillimis  temporibus  vindex,  Joannerr 
Plewartum  Anglorum  exercitu  instructum,  caesa  cum  duc( 
maxima  copiarum  parte  debellavit  in  loco  qui  Black-Ironsyc 
forrest  hodieq^  dicitur.  actum  hoc  anno  1300. 

Regio  hsec  et  solo  et  numeroso  populo,  multisc^  non  con 
temnendis  oppidis  faelix,  quorum  praecipua  sunt : 

Cupra  Vicecomitatus  caput,  ubi  jus  dicitur,  in  mediter 
raneis  ad  Edinum  fluvium  posita.  Observandum  est  ir 
plerisq^  regni  provinciis,  mediterranea  oppida  maritimis  long< 
antiquiora,  et  ab  iis  jus  petitum,  cum  majores  nostri  nondun 
exterorum  commerciis  assueti  domi  se  continerent,  et  frequenti 
272.  bus  Danorum,  Britonum  et  postea  Saxonum  bellis  exerciti 
parum  de  rebus  exoticis  quae  maritimis  commerciis  constant 
solliciti  essent. 

Andreapolis  totius  regni  in  sacris  metropolis,  non  ih 
pridem  Archiepiscopatus  sedes,  et  celebri  academia  illustris 
cujus  initia  primis  temporibus  Jacobi  primi  debentur  circj 
annum  1430.  Fundamenta  urbis  aut  incrementa  debentu: 
Abbati  Regulo,  unde  vetus  nomen  Fani  Reguli  ei  adhaesit 
qui,  a  longinqua  peregrinatione  reversus,  secum,  ut  aiebat,  relli 
quias  Andreae  Apostoli  secum  [sic],  devexerat  et  hie  condiderat 
Quicquid  sit,  opinio  certe  sanctitatis  ilia  multum  increment* 
urbis  profuit,  nam  statim  liberalitate  regum  procerumq^  ditis 
simus  Prioratus  ibidem  fundatus  est,  cujus  redditus  Archiepis 
copi  opes  aequabant.  Manent  rudera  Ecclesiae  et  Monasterii 
quae  priorem  magnificentiam  abunde  testantur.  Monachi  li 
tanti  nominis  eo  tempore  erant,  ut  Archiepiscopus  nullo  ali( 
Capitulo  in  explicandis  vel  ecclesiasticis  vel  secularibus  negotii 
uteretur  qui  illi  .in  eadem  urbe  semper  ad  man  urn  erant 
Duo  oppida  in  hoc  tractu  veteribus  memorantur,  utraq^  medi 
terranea,  Orrea  et  Victoria,  ilia  Cuprae,  altera  Falcolandia 
positu  baud  longe  absunt,  sed  num  ista  sint,  an  illae  jamdh 
defecerint,  non  est  tutum  conjicere. 

Habentur  hie  praeterea,  non  contemnenda  oppida,  Carelia 


FIFE  405 

in  extreme  ad  ortum  angulo,  Anstruther,  Pittinweym,  S. 
Monans,  Eley  aut  Eliotj  Weimis,  Disert,  Kircaldy,  Kingorn, 
Brunt-Yland  unde  quotidianus  ad  Letham  [trajectus],  Inner- 
Kethyn,  olim  sicut  acta  publica  testantur,  mercimoniis  florens, 
Dunfermelin.  Omnia  haec  oppida  praeter  Dunfermlin  ad 
aestuarium  Forthae  maritima.  At  in  adverse  Tai  littore  est 
Neuburgh,  et  intus  est  Falcolandia. 

Ante  reformatam  relligionem  tria  Monasteria,  tres  Priora- 
tus,  hie  monstrabantur.     Dunfermelin  aut  Fermelino-Dunum, 
a  Davide  imo  fundatum.     Lundoris  quod  erexit  David  Hun- 
tingtonii    Comes    Malcolmi    4W   et    Gulielmi    Regum    frater.  373» 
Balmerino  Ermingardae,  reginae  Gulielmi  regis  uxoris,  opus. 

Prioratus  vero  S.  Andreae,  quern  Alexander  I.  fundavit. 
Secundus  Pittenweem  fundatus  a  .  Tertius  Port  Moloch 

a  Brudeo  Pictorum  rege  fundatus. 

Hodie  ecclesiastica  negotia  quatuor  presbiteriis  adminis- 
trantur.  Coupra,  S.  Andrea,  Kircaldie,  et  Fermelino-Duno 
quibus  singulis  suae  subsunt  parochiales  ecclesiae. 

Insulae  nonnullae  orae  australi  objacent.  Garvia  Insula,  ubi 
angustiae  freti  sunt,  olim  arce  munita,  quae  superius  naviganti- 
bus  aditum  praeclusit.  Paulo  inferius  est  Insula  S.  Columbi, 
Coenubii  nunc  diruti  sedes.  et  haud  procul  Carelia  ad  initium 
Freti,  Insula  JEmona  hodie  Maia  dicta,  ubi  olim  quoq^  vise- 
batur  Monasterium  ;  plana  solo  est  aquae  dulcis,  non  indigna ; 
nunc  Pharum  ostendit,  unde  facibus  noctu  lucentibus,  cursus 
navium  praetervehentium  dirigitur.  Cum  mos  regni  ferat  jam 
ab  antique,  nobiles  plerunc^  in  suis  aedibus  deversari,  ne<^ 
quantum  in  multis  aliis  regnis,  urbibus  assuevisse  sed  ex- 
peditis  negotiis,  ruri  plurimum  vitam  agere,  provincia  haec 
innumeris  villis,  arcibus,  praetoriis  nobilium  ubiq^  nitidissime 
culta  est,  quorum  seriem  enumerare  longi  operis  esset,  eac^  ad 
historian!  magis  quam  compendiosam  chorographiam  spectat, 
neq^  sine  familiarum  nobilium  enumeratione,  satis  nota  haberi 
possit,  totum  id  suo  operi  relegemus.  At  certe  institutum  hoc 
campestris  vitae  et  decori  et  culture  regionis  quamplurimum 
confert,  dum  sua  quisq^  praedia  ad  invidiam  ornare  et  colere 
satagit.  hinc  numerosas  familias,  hinc  hospitales  epulas,  hinc 
domos  apertas,  officii  et  humanitatis  omnia  peregrinis  aut 
itinerantibus  cernere  licet. 


406  FIFE 

Non  possum  tamen  quorundum  primariae  nobilitatis  non 
meminisse,  qui  aut  hujus  provinciae  indigense,  aut  in  ista 
374.  plurimum  sedes  habent  et  domicilia,  sed  nullo  ordine,  (cum  hie 
mihi  ignotus  Parlamentarii  juris  sit)  haec  attexam.  Stemmata 
vero  foecialibus  relinquo,  quibus  enumerandis  inhasrere,  praeter 
institutum  mei  operis  est. 

llothesius  Comes  Leslaeorum  familiae  princeps,  ad  Levinum 
amnem  aedes  habet  Leslaeae  arcis  nomine  insignes.  Crawfurdia? 
Comes  itidem  avita  nobilitate,  antiquis  moribus,  illustres  avos 
referens,  Lnydesiorum  amplissimae  familiae  princeps,  in  vicinia 
Cuprae  oppidi  egregiam  villam,  Struthers  vocant,  cum  am- 
plissimo  vivario  arcem,  habitat.  Vemius  Comes  Vemiorum 
familiae  quocj^  princeps,  ad  Vemiam  urbeculam  arcemc^ 
ejusdem  nominis  in  australi  littore,  jam  ab  antique  lares 
habet. 

Balmerino  illustris  Elphinstoniae  domus  propago,  ad  Tai 
aestuarium,  et  in  hujus  vicinia  in  eodem  littore  Lundoris,  qui  e 
Rothesia  familia  genus  habet. 

Fermelino-duni  titulos  jam  a  patre  habet  illustris  et  nobilis- 
simus  juvenis  Setoniorum  cognominis  et  familiae,  et  Sinclarius 
Baro,  inter  Disertam  et  Kircaldiam,  arcem  Ravinsheuch  ab 
antique  possidet,  cujus  stemma  antiquum  et  nobile,  ejus  enim 
majores  Zetlandiae  et  Oread um  Comites  fuere,  et  ad  hanc 
familiam  hodierni  Cathenesiae  Comites,  et  quieunq^  alii  Sinclari- 
orum  cognomen  ferunt,  originem  referunt.  Est  quoq^  Levinius 
Comes  Lesleae  originis,  di versus  a  Levinia  ad  Glottye 
aestuarium,  quern  artibus  militiae  clarum  ad  hanc  dignitatem 
non  ita  pridem  evexit  Carolus  Rex.  Balcarrasius  Baro  ad 
orientalem  tractum,  Lyndesiorum  familiae  et  cognominis. 
Burghleius  Baro,  ad  lacus  Levini  ripam  qui  Balfuriorum 
familiam  ducta  haerede  restituit.  et  siqui  alii  sint,  ignoscant 
ignorantias  meae,  qui  in  hac  regione  semiperegrinus  sum.  At 
illi  fraudi  mihi  piaculo  sit  non  hoc  loco  meminisse  D.  Joannis 
Scoti  Scoto-Tarvetii,  qui  ex  hac  provincia  titulos  praefert, 
illi  enim  debetur  quicquid  hoc  est  operis,  ille  unicus  ad  haec 
celeustes,  et  vere  dixerim  nisi  ille  me  dormientem  excitasset 
nu  tan  tern  impulisset,  nunquam  ego  me  his  laboribus  admovis- 
375.  sem.  In  limite  hujus  provincial,  ad  viam  publicam,  non 
procul  Abernethia,  qua  lernia  intratur,  moles  lapidea  est 


TRANSLATION:  FIFE  407 

antiqui  operis,  Clan  Mac  Duffs-croce  vocatur,  asylum  quondam 
familige  Mac  DufF.  ejus  hsec  memorantur  jura,  quicunc^  Mac 
Duffum  intra  nonum  gradum  sanguinis  attingebat,  homicidii 
reus,  ad  hanc  aram  fugiens,  bubus  aliquot  productis  et  datis, 
crimine  solvebatur.  extabat  vetus  inscriptio  versibus  descripta, 
quam  totam  paene  tempus  absumpsit.  versus  sunt  semilatini, 
semibarbari,  quam  nisi  piguerat,  et  longiuscula  esset,  integram 
proferre  possem.  Sed  cum  nulli  usui  sit,  a  nemine  enim  mor- 
talium  intelligi  posse  arbitror,  nec^  peregrina  ilia  latinis 
admista  sermonem  ullum  sapiant  hodiernum,  inutile  prorsus 
erit,  jam  ante  sexcentos  annos  posita. 

Ad  Kingorniam  non  ita  pridem  ad  littus  in  scopulo  fons 
aquae  limpidissimae  repertus  est  oculis  salutaris  habitus,  aliaq^ 
corporis  vilia  levare  creditus,  et  non  pauci  inde  se  sensisse 
opern  fatebantur  aut  jactitabant ;  at  nescio  quomodo  hodie 
eviluit. 


The  following  is  a  translation  into  English  of 
the  Latin  Description  for  the  Map  of  Fife. 

Some    remarks   on    this   are   given    in    the 
Preface. 


For  the  MAP  of  FIFE. 

The  Picts  are  recognised  as  the  most  ancient  inhabitants  of  this 
district.  The  Danes  had  a  struggle  with  them  for  its  possession,  which 
is  rendered  probable  by  its  position,  bounded  on  three  sides  by  the  sea 
and  friths,  while  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  country  itself,  with  its  fertile 
soil,  attracted  these  marauders,  who,  however,  \vere  driven  thence,  and 
it  was  possessed  by  the  Picts,  for  it  passed  from  the  Picts,  with  their 
kingdom,  to  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Scots. 

The  ancient  Pictish  name  is  unknown  ;  it  is  more  probable  that  it  had 
the  name  of  Ross  from  the  Scots,  since  that  is  a  genuine  word  of  the 


408  TRANSLATION:  FIFE 

ancient  language,  and  means  an  island  or  a  peninsula.     But  its  newer 
name  of  Fife  is  derived  from  Fife  Macduff,  its  most  powerful  earl. 

In  shape  like  the  tongue  of  an  ox,  it  lies  between  the  two  friths  of 
Forth  and  Tay.  On  the  west,  where  it  is  united  to  the  rest  of  the 
mainland,  it  has  adjoining  it  the  territory  of  Stirling,  the  sheriffdom 
which  is  commonly  called  Clackmannanshire,  and  the  County  Palatine  of 
Strathearn.  Its  length  from  Culross  to  the  farthest  east,  near  the  town 
of  Crail,  is  thirty-two  Scots  miles,  which  far  exceed  either  English  or 
Italian  miles.  Its  breadth  from  Kinghorn  to  Abernethy,  on  the  Tay,  is 
more  than  fourteen. 

The  climate,  through  the  beneficial  effect  of  the  sea,  is  mild  and  soft, 
and  it  is  possible  to  find  many  districts  more  southerly  that  are  far  more 
exposed  to  frosts  and  snows  and  the  rigours  of  the  climate,  being  either 
surrounded  by  mountains  or  distant  from  the  sea ;  and  the  immense  and 
inexhaustible  supply  of  underground  coal  drives  all  the  severity  of  winter 
away,  so  that  the  shire  is  most  agreeable  to  live  in,  and  the  population 
is  large. 

The  soil  here,  being  fertile  and  suitable  for  crops,  generously  yields 
wheat,  barley,  rye,  and  oats,  also  all  kinds  of  leguminous  plants  which 
fit  that  climate ;  nor  is  it  without  garden  fruits.  Wherever  the  fields 
are  far  from  the  sea  or  rivers,  and  lie  at  the  base  of  the  colder  moun- 
tains, they  are  rendered  more  productive  by  the  industry  of  the  inhabi- 
tants, chiefly  through  manuring  with  lime,  of  which  an  enormous  supply 
is  here  obtained  from  limestone. 

Great  returns  are  yearly  derived  by  proprietors  from  veins  of 
underground  coal,  which  is  dug  in  many  cases  from  the  bowels  of  the 
earth  and  sold  to  outsiders  at  a  profit.  The  largest  coalpits  are  found 
on  the  south  coast,  and  owing  to  their  beneficial  presence  an  immense 
quantity  of  the  whitest  salt  is  daily  obtained,  which,  in  addition  to  the 
local  consumption,  is  sent  away  for  sale  to  outsiders.  Also,  in  the 
months  of  August  and  September  there  is  an  extensive  herring  fishery  on 
the  neighbouring  coast,  which  gives  employment  to  the  common  people 
of  the  seaboard  towns. 

The  greatly  famed  Ochil  mountains,  not  unknown  to  the  ancients, 
which  bound  the  western  border  of  this  shire,  and  in  a  long  range  sepa- 
rate it  from  Strathearn,  are  not  high  nor  rugged,  and  are  almost  every- 
where cultivable,  or  Suitable  for  cattle  in  the  grassy  valleys.  In  the 
district  itself  various  hills  stretch  hither  and  thither,  separated  by 
pleasant  and  fruitful  plains,  and  widening  into  fields.  Where  they  rise 
to  heights  they  have  received  different  names.  Thus,  to  the  south  of 
the  royal  retreat  of  Falkland  Castle,  with  the  adjoining  town,  rises  a 
double-peaked  mountain  which  has  the  name  of  Lomond.  Another, 
between  Lochs  Leven  and  Orr,  is  called  Benartie.  Norman's  Law, 
situated  not  far  from  Bambrich,  looks  down  on  the  Firth  of  Tay.  Those 
parts  that  look  to  the  east  or  the  south-east  have  the  mountains  of  Largo 
Law,  Kelly  Law,  Dunoter  Law,  Logic  Law,  and  Duncarro  Law. 


TRANSLATION:  FIFE  409 

It  is  watered  by  [the  following-]  rivers — the  Edin,  not  unknown  to  the 
.ancients,  which  Ptolemy  names  the  Tina,  and  whose  source  is  held  to  be 
in  the  Park  of  Falkland,  for  there  that  river  first  assumes  the  name  of 
the  Edin,  though  the  river  Miglo  has  its  springs  far  above  that,  in  the 
Ochil  mountains  ;  it  flows  from  Falkland  through  a  pleasant  and  culti- 
vated plain  ;  it  washes  the  town  of  Cupar,  arid  at  a  distance  of  two  miles 
-thence,  after  receiving  the  Mottrie  Burn  near  its  mouth,  it  mingles  with 
the  sea  north  of  St.  Andrews,  but  cannot  bear  ships  on  account  of 
shallows. 

The  Leven,  issuing  from  the  loch  of  the  same  name,  into  which  two 
rivers  named  Cuich  flow,  and  a  third,  the  Gairnie,  being,  after  the  outlet 
from  the  loch,  now  designated  the  River  Leven,  runs  in  a  straight  line 
from  west  to  east.  Receiving  the  Orr  and  the  Lochty,  it  mingles  with 
the  Frith  of  Forth  at  the  town  which  has  its  name  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Leven. 

The  inhabitants  of  this  district  are  as  cultured  in  deportment  and 
'manners  as  any  others  in  the  whole  kingdom,  as  skilled  in  the  arts 
of  war  and  peace,  as  industrious  and  harmonious  among  themselves. 
The  people  on  the  south  coast,  favoured  by  the  numerous  harbours,  are 

•chiefly  engaged  in  trade  by  sea,  so  that  they  have  no  small  supply  of 

rships,  and  being  well  furnished  with  many  bold  and  skilful  captains,  they 
frequently  visit  foreign  shores,  and  always  to  make  a  profit. 

On  these  coasts,  near  the  town  of  Crail,  a  battle  was  fought  in  the 

-year  874  against  the  Danes,  who  were  led  by  Hungar  and  Hubba,  in 
which  Constantino,  King  of  Scots,  was  captured  and  beheaded  by  the 

•cruel  foe. 

In  after  years  William  Wallace,  the  gallant  hero,  and  in  critical  times 

-the  champion  of  our  freedom,  defeated  John  Plewart,  commanding  an 

•  army  of  English,  and    killed  the  general  with  the  greatest  part  of  his 
forces,  at  the  place  which  is  called  Black-Ironsyd  Forest  at  the  present 

•day.     This  happened  in  the  year  1300. 

This  district  is  fortunate  both  in  soil  and  population,  and  in  many 

towns  that  are  not  to  be  despised,  of  which  the  following  are  the 
•principal : 

Cupar,  the  capital  of  the  sheriffdom,  where  justice  is  administered,  is 

situated  on  the  river  Edin.  It  has  to  be  remarked  that  in  most  shires  of 
'the  kingdom  the  inland  towns  are  far  older  .than  those  on  the  sea-coast  J 
-and  that  justice  is  sought  from  them,  since  our  ancestors,  not  yet  accus- 
•tomed  to  foreign  commerce,  remained  at  home,  and  being  engaged  in 
"frequent  wars  with  the  Danes,  the  Britons,  and  afterwards  the  Saxons, 

•  cared  little  for  foreign  goods  which  are  procured  by  a  sea  trade. 

St.  Andrews  is  the  metropolis  of  the  whole  kingdom  in  ecclesiastical 
affairs,  having  been  the  seat  of  an  archbishopric  not  very  long  ago,  and  is 
noted  for  its  famous  university,  whose  beginnings  are  due  to  the  earlv 
•times  of  James  i.,  about  the  year  1430.  The  foundation  or  the  growth 
•of  the  city  is  due  to  the  Abbot  Ilegulus,  whence  the  old  name  of  the 


410  TRANSLATION:  FIFE 

Church  of  Regulus  has  clung  to  it.  He,  returning  from  a  long  pilgrim- 
age, had  brought  with  him,  as  he  said,  and  here  preserved  the  relics  of 
the  Apostle  Andrew.  Whatever  there  is,  that  reputation  for  sanctity. 
was  very  favourable  to  the  growth  of  the  city,  for  there  was  immediately, 
founded  in  the  same  place,  by  the  liberality  of  kings  and  nobles,  a  very 
wealthy  priory,  whose  revenues  equalled  the  resources  of  the  Archbishop. 
The  ruins  of  the  church  and  the  monastery  remain,  and  abundantly 
testify  to  former  magnificence.  These  monks  had  so  great  a  name  at 
that  time  that  the  Archbishop  in  settling  ecclesiastical  or  civil  affairs- 
employed  no  other  Chapter,  as  they  were  always  near  him  in  the  same- 
city. 

Two  towns  in  this  district  are  mentioned  by  the  ancients,  both 
inland,  namely  Orrea  and  Victoria.  The  former  is  not  far  distant  from 
the  position  of  Cupar,  and  the  latter  from  that  of  Falkland;  but 
whether  they  are  these  towns,  or  have  long  ceased  to  exist,  it  is  not  safe 
to  conjecture. 

Here,  besides,  are  situated  the  considerable  towns  of  Crail  in  the  farthest 
east  nook,  Anstruther,  Pittinweym,  St.  Monans,  Eley  or  Eliot,  Weimis,. 
Disert,  Kircaldy,  Kingorn,  Brunt-Yland,  from  which  there  is  a  daily- 
passage  to  Leith,  Inner-Kethyn,  formerly,  as  the  public  acts  show, 
flourishing  with  merchandise,  and  Dunfermlin.  All  these  towns  except 
Dunfermlin  are  on  the  coast  of  the  Frith  of  Forth.  But  in  the  oppo- 
site quarter,  on  the  shore  of  the  Tay,  is  Neuburgh,  and  inland  is 
Falkland. 

Before  the  reformation  of  religion,  three  monasteries  and  thre& 
priories  were  pointed  out  here :  Dunfermlin,  founded  by  David  i., 
Lundoris,  which  was  erected  by  David,  Earl  of  Huntington,  brother  of 
the  kings  Malcolm  iv.  and  William,  and  Balmerino,  the  work  of  Queen 
Ermingard,  wife  of  King  William. 

Then  there  is  the  Priory  of  St.  Andrews,  which  was  founded  by 
Alexander  i.  Pittenweem,  the  second,  was  founded  by  , 

and  Port  Moloch  [Portmoak],  the  third,  by  Brude,  King  of  the  Picts. 

At  the  present  day  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  managed  by  four  presby- 
teries, Cupar,  St.  Andrews,  Kircaldie,  and  Dunfermlin,  under  each  of 
which  are  its  own  parish  churches. 

Several  islands  lie  opposite  the  south  coast.  Inchgarvie,  where  the 
Forth  is  narrowest,  was  of  old  fortified  with  a  castle  which  barred  the 
advance  of  those  sailing  further  up.  A  little  below  is  the  island  of 
St.  Colms,  the  seat  of  a  monastery  now  in  ruins  ;  and  not  far  from  Crail 
at  the  commencement  of  the  frith  is  the  island  of  Mmona,  now  called 
May,  where  also  formerly  a  monastery  was  seen.  It  is  level  ground, 
and  possessing  fresh  water  it  is  not  unworthy  of  notice.  It  now  has  a 
light-house  from  which,  by  means  of  torches  gleaming  at  night,  the  course 
of  the  ships  that  sail  past  is  guided.  Since  the  custom  of  the  kingdom 
has  from  olden  times  been  for  the  gentry  usually  to  stay  in  their  own 
houses,  and  not  as  in  many  other  kingdoms  to  accustom  themselves  to 


TRANSLATION:  FIFE  411 

cities,  but,  disengaged  from  business,  to  spend  most  of  their  lives  in  tbe 
country,  this  shire  is  everywhere  most  elegantly  adorned  with  gentle- 
men's houses,  castles,  and  mansions  without  number,  in  a  succession 
which  it  would  be  a  long  labour  to  detail,  and  which  belongs  rather  to 
history  than  to  a  compendious  chorographical  description. 

Nor  could  it  be  considered  to  be  of  sufficient  note  without  a  particular 
enumeration  of  the  noble  families,  and  we  may  leave  all  that  for  a  work  of 
its  own.  But  certainly  this  custom  of  living  in  the  country  contributes 
very  much  to  both  the  beauty  and  cultivation  of  the  district,  as  every 
one  busies  himself  with  ornamenting  and  cultivating  his  own  estates  so 
as  to  be  envied.  Hence  one  may  see  numerous  families,  hospitable 
entertainments,  open  houses,  and  all  dutiful  and  kind  attentions  to 
strangers  or  travellers. 

I  cannot,  however,  omit  to  mention  some  of  the  leading  noblemen 
who  either  originally  belong  to  the  shire,  or  for  the  most  part  have 
their  seats  and  homes  in  it,  though  I  add  these  matters  in  no  due  order 
(since  their  rights  of  Parliamentary  precedence  are  unknown  to  me). 
But  I  leave  their  lineage  to  heralds,  as  it  is  beyond  the  scope  of  my 
work  to  apply  myself  to  setting  this  forth. 

The  Earl  of  Rothes,  Chief  of  the  House  of  Leslie,  has  his  mansion, 
distinguished  by  the  name  of  Castle  Leslie,  on  the  River  Leven. 
The  Earl  of  Crawfurd,  likewise  of  the  old  nobility  and  of  ancient 
manners,  tracing  illustrious  ancestors,  is  the  Chief  of  the  important 
House  of  Lindsay,  and  lives  in  a  fine  mansion  called  Struthers,  a  castle 
with  an  extensive  park  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cupar.  The  Earl  of 
Wemyss,  also  Head  of  the  House  of  Wemyss,  has  his  abode  from  of  old 
at  the  small  town  of  Wemyss,  and  the  castle  of  the  same  name.  [Lord] 
Balmerino,  on  the  Frith  of  Tay,  is  a  member  of  the  illustrious  House  of 
Elphinstone,  and  in  his  neighbourhood,  on  the  same  shore,  lives  Lun- 
dores,  who  has  his  descent  from  the  family  of  Rothes.  The  illustrious 
and  most  noble  young  man  of  the  surname  of  the  Setons  holds  the  titles 
of  Dunfermline  from  his  father  ;  and  Lord  Sinclair  possesses  from  olden 
times  the  Castle  of  Ravensheuch.  His  lineage  is  ancient  and  noble,  for 
his  ancestors  were  Earls  of  Zetland  and  the  Orkneys,  and  to  this  family 
the  modern  Earls  of  Caithness  and  all  others  who  bear  the  name  of 
Sinclair  trace  their  origin.  There  is  also  the  Earl  of  Leven,  different 
from  Leven  on  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  who,  sprung  from  the  Leslies,  was 
not  very  long  ago  raised  to  this  rank  by  King  Charles  as  a  distinguished 
soldier.  Lord  Balcarres,  in  the  eastern  district,  is  of  the  family  and 
surname  of  the  Lindsays.  Lord  Burleigh,  on  the  banks  of  Loch  Leven, 
restored  the  family  of  the  Balfours  by  marrying  the  heiress.  And  if 
there  are  any  others,  they  must  pardon  my  ignorance,  as  1  am  half  a 
foreigner  in  these  parts. 

But  may  I  have  to  expiate  the  wrong  if  I  do  not  here  mention  Sir 
John  Scot  of  Scotstarvet,  who  claims  his  titles  from  this  shire.  For  to 
him  is  due  all  this  work  of  mine  :  he  has  been  my  sole  exhorter  to  this, 


412  TRANSLATION:  FIFE 

and  I  can  truly  say  that  had  he  not  roused  me  when  slumbering1,  and 
urged  me  when  hesitating,  I  should  never  have  applied  myself  to  these 
tasks.  On  the  border  of  this  shire,  not  far  from  Abernethy,  and  where 
Strathearn  is  entered,  there  is  a  stone  erection  of  ancient  workmanship, 
called  Clan  MacDuiFs  croce,  once  a  sanctuary  of  the  family  of  MacDuff. 
This  privilege  of  his  is  mentioned,  that  whoever  came  within  the  ninth 
degree  of  relationship  to  MacDuff,  if  accused  of  manslaughter,  by  fleeing 
to  this  altar  was  absolved  from  the  charge  on  providing  and  giving  some 
oxen.  An  old  inscription  written  in  verse  was  once  extant,  but  time  has 
effaced  almost  the  whole  of  it.  The  verses  are  half  Latin,  half  bar- 
barous, and  I  could  reproduce  the  entire  piece  were  it  not  troublesome, 
and  the  inscription  somewhat  long.  But  since  it  is  of  no  use,  for  I 
consider  that  it  can  be  understood  by  no  man,  and  since  that  foreign 
jargon  mixed  with  Latin  words  smacks  of  no  modern  tongue,  no  end  at 
all  would  be  served,  as  it  was  put  there  more  than  six  hundred  years  ago. 
At  Kingorn  not  very  long  ago,  under  a  crag  at  the  shore,  there  was 
found  a  spring  of  the  clearest  water,  which  was  considered  beneficial  to 
the  eyes,  and  believed  to  alleviate  other  bodily  ailments,  and  not  a 
few  professed  or  boasted  that  they  felt  themselves  relieved  by  it ;  but 
somehow  it  has  become  of  no  account  nowadays. 


CATHENESIA,  STRATHNAVERNIA,  ROSSIA 
SUTHERLANDIA,  &c. 

Quicquid  terrarum  longo  tractu  a  sinu  quern  Livennum 
vocant,  quique  Lochabriam  a  Lorna  dividit,  adusq^  Orcades  in- 
sulas  et  extima  continentis,  comprehensa  etiam  Badenocha, 
non  ita  pridem  Vicecomitatus  Inner  Nessse  nomine  censebatur. 
et  ex  hac  urbe  universi  jus  petebant,  quin  etiam  quaecunq^  ex 
JEbudis  insulis  huic  littori  per  magna  terrarum  spatia  objacent, 
eodem  jure  tenentur.  Praefectura  haec  ad  Marchiones  Hun- 
tilaeos  haereditarie  pertinebat.  At  Cathenesia  provincia  cessit 
nuperus  Marchio,  in  gratiam  Comitis  Cathanesiae  a  Sinclariorum 
familia  geniti  qui  ejusdem  Marchionis  sororem  Joannam 
Gordoniam  in  uxorem  duxerat,  unde  hodierna  progenies,  eac^ 
provincia  Comitatus  per  se  censetur. 

$76.  Postea  idem  Marchio  cessit  quocj^  jure  Sutherlandiae  pro- 
vinciae  in  gratiam  Georgii  Gordon!!  cognati  sui,  qui  ducta 
Sutherlandiae  Comitum  haerede,  hoc  patrimonio  auctus,  Comi- 
tatum  ilium  in  suam  fanriliam  transtulerat,  unde  hodie 
provincia  ilia  Vicecomitatus  per  se  quoc^  censetur. 


ROSSIA  413 

Cromartia  urbecula  cum  exigua  proxima?  terras  parte,  jam 
ab  antique,  Vicecomitatus  nomine  habebatur.  cujus  praefectura 
ad  Urquhartorum  familiam,  cujus  princeps  in  vicinia  oppidi 
aedes  habet,  adhuc  hodie  spectat. 

His  divulsis,  manet  adhuc  amplissimus  universi  regni  comi- 
tatus,  nam  p raster  Badenocham,  Lochabriam,  isthmum  terrarum 
ilium  qui  Lochabriam  et  JEbudas  insulas  interjacet,  multis 
minoribus  regulis  habitatum,  omnesq^  eas  insulas  quae  littori 
sparsirn  objacent,  quarum  omnium  nihil  hac  tabula  compre- 
henditur,  supersunt  hie  describenda  Rossia  cum  regiunculis 
vicinis  aut  sub  ilia  comprehensis,  Assynt,  Strathnavernia  et 
quaecumck  lacum  Nessum  ambiunt. 

Vetus  Geographia  haec  loca  Creones,  Cantas,  Carnanacas, 
Mertas,  Logos,  et  ad  extremum  septentrionem  Cornavios  in- 
sedisse  affirmat,  quorum  omnium  nulla  vel  apud  nostros  scrip- 
tores  vel  ullibi  hodie  extat  memoria,  nisi  forte  Cornaviorum 
vestigia  obscura  supersint,  in  arce  Cathenesiae  Comitum,  quae 
non  ita  pridem  Gernigo,  hodie  Castel  Sincleer  dici  incipit.  At 
Oceanus  magnis  terrarum  spatiis  infusus  incipiens  a  sinistris 
ad  Taezalum  promontorium  hodie  Buquhannes  dictum,  a  dextris 
autem  ad  Veruvium  promontorium,  nunc  Dunsbeihead,  Inner- 
nessam  usq,_  penetrans,  penitiusc^  ad  Caenobium  Beaulieu, 
Vararis  aestuarii  olim  nomine,  hodie  Murray-fyrth,  videtur 
nondum  antiquitatem  deposuisse,  in  intimo  enim  sinu  tres  377. 
diversi  fluvii  distinctis  nominibus  confluentes,  sub  nomine 
Farrar  fluvii  magnum  illud  Vararis  aestuarium  primum 
subeunt. 

ROSSIA. 

Rossiae  nomen  prisca  lingua  Chersonesum  significat,  et 
revera  provincia  hasc  quanquam  ad  utrunc^  mare  sese  porrigat, 
multis  tamen  sinubus  irrumpentis  oceani  utrinq^  lancinata,  si 
in  universum  earn  intueare,  crebras  paeninsulas  refert. 

Hos  omnes  sinus,  quod  semel  dixisse  sufficiat,  quicunc^ 
prisca  loquuntur  lingua,  per  universum  regnum,  lacus  nomi- 
nant,  ac  propter  ambiguitatem  vocis,  sinus  maris  lacus  salsos, 
terrestres  vero  lacus  dulces  appellant. 

Rossia  qua  occidentem  spectat,  Vergivio   Oceano  objecta, 


414  ASSYNT 

multis  sinubus  intercisa  est,  qui  onmes  piscium  uberi  proventu, 
halecum  praesertim  immensis  examinibus  luxuriant.  Terra 
omnis  asperis  montibus  attollitur,  frugibus  parum  felix,  silva- 
rum  frequens,  pastui  quam  satis  magis  accommoda,  sed  frugum 
inopiam  bourn  et  ferina  copia  levat,  hinc  enim  quotannis  bourn 
pi  LI  rim  a  armenta  educta  longe  latec^  distrahuntur. 

Primus  ad  occidentem  hybernum  tractus  Kintail  est, 
angusto  freto  a  Skia  insula  divisus,  sub  eoc^  regiuncula 
Glen-Elcheg.  Avitum  hoc  est  et  patrimoniale  solum  illustris- 
simi  Comitis  Sea-fort  qui  longe  lateq^  in  hac  provincia  domi- 
natur,  MacKennethorum  familiae  Principis.  In  hac  est  Castel 
Ylen  Donen  in  insula  freti  supra  dicti,  ubi  Comitis  hujus 
majores  primas  sedes  habuere ;  in  hunc  sinum  influunt  flumina 
Sheil,  Lyick,  Connag,  Elchag,  Luong.  Glen  Elcheg  attingit 
sinum  Carroun  dictum,  in  quern  exonerat  se  ejusdem  nominis 
fluvius. 

Postea  legend o  oram  praeteritis  aliquot  ignobilioribus  sinu- 
bus, visitur  Ew,  et  ad  mille  passus  intra  eum  Lacus  Ew,  undic^ 
S78.  densis  silvis  obseptus,  ubi  superioribus  annis  ferrariae  exercitas 
sunt.  Dehinc  paulum  ad  septentrionem  sinus  Brienna,  annua 
et  copiosa  halecum  piscatura  nobilis.  sinus  ille  Ptolomaeo 
Y'olsas  dici  videtur;  mediterranea  supra  hanc  regionem  pars 
Ard-Ross  dicitur,  id  est  altitude  Rossiae,  inter  altissimos 
montes  expansa,  horrida  et  inculta  tota.  Supra  hanc  sequitur 
Coygach  regiuncula,  quae  vox  quintam  significat;  censebatur 
olim  regionis  vicinae  Assint  quinta  pars,  at  mine  avulsa  alius 
dominii  est. 

ASSYNT. 

Proxima  est  Assynt  inter  Chireaig  fluvium  et  sinum  Chewlis- 
cung  secundum  littus  porrecta.  Promontorium  Rovv-stoir 
Assyn  hie  praeter  reliquum  littus  in  mare  procurrit.  Tralligyr 
fluvius  e  monte  Bin  moir  Assyn  defluens,  permenso  lacu  Assyn 
dicto,  in  mare  exonerat.  Mons  ille  Binmoir  marmoris  venis, 
aut  saxi  quod  marmor  affinitate  referat  Celebris ;  caeterum  hie 
aspera,  inculta  omnia,  nec^  praeter  cervorum  bourn  et  equorurn 
greges  quicquam  memorabile,  cum  regio  inops  paucis  colonis 
vix  sufficiat.  regiuncula  haec  superioribus  saeculis  Sutherlandia 


ASSYNT  415 

uccensa,  ejusdemq^  pars  habita.  postea  nescio  quomodo  inde 
^.vulsa  in  aliorum  dominium  concessit,  revera  enim  vix  ad 
Rossiam  spectat,  cum  Diceceseos  Cathanensis  pars  sit. 

Jam  qua  Rossia  Vararis  aestuariuin  respicit,  quanquam  fre- 
quenter in  montes  intumescat,  ad  littus  tamen  et  fluviorum 
decursus  qui  frequentes  satis  sunt,  mirum  quam  frugibus  iisc^ 
optimis  exuberet ;  non  hie  triticum,  secale,  avena,  pisa,  fabae, 
non  hortenses  herbae  aut  fructus,  supra  fidem  climatis  desunt. 
'Qua  Farrar  fluvius  in  sinum  sui  cognominis,  ut  dixi,  se  condit, 
incipit  base  regio,  ubi  Lovetta  arx  antiqua,  Baronum  Fraser- 
iorum  olim  sedes,  qui  mine  in  Beaulieu  ex  adverse  fluvii, 
•amcenum  et  opulentum  olim  Coenobium  migravere,  multac^ 
latifundia  in  vicinia  per  se  aut  suos  clientes  tenent. 

Chersonesus  ilia  quae  inter  duo  freta  Cromartie  ab  arcto,  a 
meridie  vero  Innernessae,  Ard  Meanach  dicitur,  quae  vox 
tnediam  altitudinem  significat.  hinc  exclude  territorium  et 
viciniam  urbeculag  Cromartie  ubi  suus  est,  ut  dixi,  Vice- 
•comitatus.  Hie  in  littore  est  oppidum  Chanrie  dictum,  ad 
amaenos  et  frugiferos  colles  qui  euin  [sic]  cingunt  in  campis  ex- 
pansum  arce  et  templo  cathedrali,  non  illo  tamen  integro,  non 
incelebre,  ubi  olim  Episcopalis  sedes,  et  inde  nornen  a  Canoii- 
icis,  eorum  enim  sedes  nobis  Chanria  dicitur,  ut  in  Elgina 
vicinae  Moraviae  urbe,  ea  urbis  pars  ubi  illi  cum  Episcopo  suo 
•considebant  a  regia  urbe  distincta,  hodiec^  the  Chanrie  dicitur. 
A  Chanrie  oppido  in  Moravian!  quotidianus  trajectus,  null  us 
tamen  portus  est.  Naves  in  Minlochiam,  tribus  millibus 
passuum  supra,  se  subducunt.  Infra  Canoriam  ad  mille  passus 
in  eodem  littore  est  Ross  Markie  designata  ab  antique,  urbis 
sedes,  sed  cujus  luminibus  sic  perpetuo  offecerit  vicina 
•Canoria  ut  nunquam  surrexerit.  Paulo  quoc^  supra  Canoriam 
in  littore  super  sunt  Ormundiae  arcis  rudera,  unde  inter  alia, 
principes  nostri  partem  titulorum  suorum  trahebant,  non 
injuria,  in  his  enim  Rossiae  locis  diversisq^  aliis  non  exigua 
latifundia  ad  fiscum  spectant,  quorum  redditus  quotannis  in 
Scaccario  regio,  ut  vocatur,  dependentur. 

Sequitur  urbecula  Cromartie  ad  initium  sinus  ejusdem 
nominis  de  quo  vere  dicere  liceat  nullum  talem  ab  Orcadibus 
insulis  adusque  Cantium  in  Anglia  reperiri,  est  enim  navibus 
aditu  facilis,  intus  tutissimus,  capacissimus,  syrtibus,  vadis, 


416  ASSYNT 

brevibus  liber,  fundo  qualem  desiderent  nautae  ad  anchoras 
retinendas,  omnes  deniq^  egregii  portus  laudes  habet.  in  utroc^ 
littore  ad  depresses  margines  septa  lignea  frequentia  sunt  multi 
usus,  recedente  namc^  aestu,  siccatisq^  arenis  pisces  manu  capi- 
untur.  In  hujus  intimo  recessu,  fluvius  Connel  aut  Connei> 

380.  dictus  exoneratur,  qui    diversis  fluviis  constans,  hoc  nomine 
finitur.  est  hie  margaritifer,  unde  non  raro  insignes  uniones  in 
conchis  sui  generis  extrahuntur.  at  non  unica  haec  fluvii  hujus 
laus,  quamplurimi  enim  alii  et  in  hoc  tractu  diversis^  aliis, 
baccarum    margaritiferarum    divites    sunt.    nec^   Deae,  Donaer 
Ythannae,  Ugio  multisc^  aliis  rivulis  in  vicecomitatu  Aberdon- 
ensi,  procul  a  mari,  desunt.     Vix  mille  passus  ab  hujus  ostiis 
sequitur  Dingwall   oppidum    non    magni  nominis,  pingui  et 
fselici  solo  posita;  non  longe  hinc  ad  arctum  se  tollit  multis 
jugis  ingens  et  asper  mons  Weves,  herbidis  tamen  vallibus 
multos  rivos  emittit.    Ad  arctoum  freti  latus,  paulum  a  littore 
reducta,  Fowlis  arx  visitur  Dynastae  Monroi  cognominis  avita 
possessio,  ejusc^  familiae  propagines  latifundia  in  vicinia  ab 
antique  habent.     Infra  in  eodem  littore  est  Balnagown  cas- 
trum,  Rossiorum  familiae  universae  in  his  regionibus  princepsy 
eum  [sic]  tenet.    Jam  ab  antique  Rossiae  Comitatus  ad  familiam 
ejusdem  cum  Comitatu  cognominis  spectabat.  qua  deficiente 
procul  dubio  jus  omne  ad  Donaldum  ^Ebudarum  Insularun* 
pra?potentem  regulum  spectabat.  quo  negato,  aut  interverso,  ille 
jus  suum  armis  repetit  facileq^  tenuit,  unde  animus  vastus  ad 
illicita  flexus,  plura  iisdem  armis  repetit,  cumq^  nemo  resisteret, 
Abredoniam  cum  armatis  copiis  iter  habuit.     Acta  haec  circa 
annum  1411,  quo  tempore  Jacobus  primus  defuncto  patre  in 
Anglia   captivus   contra   omne  jus   gentium   tenebatur,  [et] 
regnum     hoc     per     interregem     administrabatur.    oppositus 
Donaldo    est    Alexander    Marriae    Comes,    qui    ejus    copias 
cecidit.     Unde  majestatis  reus,  hoc   Comitatu,  multisc^  aliis 
latifundiis  excidit. 

Sequitur  alius  sinus,  et  Chersonesus  altera,  sinum  hunc  ab 
•oppido    ei    adposito    fretum   Tayn    vocant,   importuosus   et 

381.  navibus  propter  brevia  formidandus.    Sinus  hie  multa  milliaria 
terras    irrumpens,    Sutherlandiam    a   Rossia   dividit,   desinit 
autem  ad  promontorium  Terbaert  dictum ;  Chersonesus  haec 
egregii  et  uberis  agri  est,  in  eo  est  Fern  amaeno  loco  Caenobium. 


SUTHERLANDIA  417 

Est  quoq^  in  littore  sinus  oppidum  Tayn,  divite  solo  positum, 
prisca  lingua  Bale-Duich  dictum  a  Dochesio  vel  Duicho  Sancto 
habito,  cujus  ibi  Ecclesia  cum  asyli  olim  jure;  ad  hanc  olim 
frequentes  peregrinationes  instituebantur.  Supra  hanc  urbem 
ad  tria  milliaria,  trajectus  in  Sutherlandiam  patet.  Portin- 
coultyr  locum  vocant.  Supra  hunc  trajectum,  f return,  primum 
caurum  respiciens,  postea  tenui  canali  ad  occasum  vergens- 
suscipit  duo  flumina.  Charron  magis  ad  austrum,  et  Okel  in 
intimo  recess u;  Charron  ex  editissimis  mentis  Skormivarr  jugis- 
defluens,  per  montana  et  silvestria  delapsus  tractum  quern 
Strath-Charron  vocant,  secat.  Universus  hie  tractus  ut  pluri- 
mum  silvestris,  et  proceribus  inprimis  abietibus  vestitus,  vicinia 
exterisc^  materiam  suppeditat.  Lagtus  quoc^  bourn  armentis, 
equorumck  multis  gregibus.  Vicinus  fluvius  Okel  non  magni- 
tudine  par  in  initium  sinus,  ut  dixi,  evolvitur  per  tractum 
quern  a  fluvio  Strath-Okel  dicunt,  ad  quern  aliqui  pagi  positi,. 
sed  nihil  hie  memorabile.  Paulo  ultra  hunc  ad  Chassil  ignobi- 
lem  rivum  totius  provinciae  limes. 

Montes    in    hac   provincia    multi    editi    mediterranea    ut. 
plurimum  tenent ;  aliquando,  in  occidua  praesertim  ora,  ubi 
omnia  incultiora,  mari  incumbunt,  omnemc^  culturam  prohi- 
bent.  horum  nomina,  cum  latiali  ore  vix  efferfi  queant,  dicere 
supersedeo  ;  vestiganti  tabula  regionis  adeunda  erit. 

Paucae  insulae,  nec^  illae   memorabiles  oram  hanc  cingunt, 
praeter  Skiam  quae  suam  descriptionem  meretur. 


SUTHERLANDIA. 

Hujus  descriptionem  mihi  communicavit  nobilis  Eques  D. 
Robertas  Gordonius  a  Gordonstoun  Illustrissimi  Sutherlandiae 
Comitis  patruus,  unde  delibabo  quae  ad  instituti  mei  rationem 
spectant. 

Provincia  haec  antiquitus  Cattey  vocata  est,  incolae  vero 
Catiegh ;  Southerlandiae  vocabulum  recentius  est,  antiquitus 
vero  nomine  hoc  Cattey,  non  solum  provincia  base,  sed  et 
hodierna  Cathenesia,  Strath  Navernia  et  Assynt  noscebantur. 
Sutherlandiae  vero  vox  australem  terrain  significat. 

Dividitur  a  Cathenesia,  quam  ad  boream  et  ortum  aestivum 

VOL.  II.  2D 


418  SUTHERLANDI A 

habet,  in  littore  maris,  aspero  monte  Ord  dicto,  qui  praeruptis 
crepidinibus  hie  in  mare  procurrit,  et  continuis  jugis  sub 
variis  nominibus  terras  ad  occasum  permeans,  earn  quoq^  a 
Strath-Navernia  separat ;  ab  Assynt  earn  dividunt  tres  exigui 
lacus,  et  terra  deserta  iis  contigua.  Rossiam  autem  a  meredie 
et  occasu  hiberno  habet,  interjacente  sinu  qui  a  Tayn  oppido 
uomen  habet,  ut  diximus  in  Rossiae  descriptione,  et  ad  initium 
ejus  sinus,  Chassil  rivulus,  deinde  montana  quae  Okellum 
flumen  et  Sinnum  lacum  interjacent,  limitem  constituunt, 
caetera  aperto  oceano  alluuntur. 

Regio  haec  in  mediterraneis  locis,  crebris  montibus  intu- 
mescit  qui  sese  multis  pascuis  et  frugiferis  aperiunt  vallibus, 
unde  limpidissimi  decurrunt  rivi  vel  fluvii.  valles  hae  amoenis 
et  commodis  habitationibus  frequentes,  innumera  omnigenum 
pecorum  genera  alunt.  ferinae  quocj^  et  avium  silvestrium  et 
domesticarum  praesto  est  copia.  At  qua  vel  mare  vel  sinum 
supradictum  attingit  mirum  quam  frugibus  iisq^  optimis  et 
ocyssime  maturescentibus  fcelix,  aliarumq^  rerum  ad  bene 
388.  hilariterq^  vivendum  desideratarum  nulla  parcitas ;  bonitatis 
soli  indicio  est,  quod  in  hortis  Comitis  ad  arcem  Robino- 
dunum  in  Oceani  littore,  crocus  fosliciter  crescit  et  maturescit 
quanquam  serotina  ea  planta  sit,  solumq^  frigidum  respuat. 

Tres  sunt  in  hoc  Comitatu  saltuum  nomine  designati  in 
montanis  loci,  praeter  alias  silvas  hue  illuc  diffusas.  Saltus  hi 
Diri-Moir.  Diri  Chat,  et  Diri-Maenach  nominibus  cognoscun- 
tur ;  in  iis  ut  in  plerisque  aliis  locis,  jucunda  et  copiosa  venatio, 
cervis  enim  damis,  lupis,  vulpibus,  felibus  catis,  martibus, 
melibus  omniq^  avium  silvestrium  genere,  quod  hoc  climate  ali 
potest,  plena  hie  omnia.  Est  quoque  avis  genus  non  ubic^ 
obvium,  psittacum  multum  referens,  Knag  vocant,  quod  rostro 
nidum  sibi  quotannis  in  truncis  querneis  efFodit,  nescio  an  ad 
pici  martii  genera  referri  possit.  ad  confmia  occasum  aestivum 
spectantia,  tractus  est  montanus  ac  silvestris,  in  eoq^  mons 
Arkil ;  omnes  cervi  hie  reperti  bifurcatas  habent  caudas,  unde 
a  ceteris  facile  distinguuritur.  circa  initia  lacus  Sinn,  montes 
illi  marmoreis  venis  nobilitati,  ut  in  provinciola  Assint  dixi- 
mus, visuntur. 

Flumina  precipua  quae  hanc  regionem  irrigant,  sunt  Ulies, 
alio  nomine  Floidac,  qui  Dorenocho  oppido  Robinodunum 


SUTHERLANDIA  419 

•castrum  commeantibus,  freto  trajicitur.  Evelick,  Brora,  Loth, 
Helmsdail,  Ully  quoc^  dictus,  Shin  et  Casley,  omnes  hi  quan- 
quam  mediocres,  piscosissimi ;  ad  horum  decursus  aperientibus 
sese  montibus  campi  patescunt,  gramine  frugibusc^  divites  ; 
tractus  hos  patria  consuetudine  Straths  appellant,  addito  ad 
distinctionem,  fluvii  nomine  ut  Strath  Brora,  Strath  Ully  &c. 
Ceterum  praater  has  fluminum  dictorum  nomine  insignes  valles, 
sunt  et  multae  aliae,  saepe  enim  rivi  ignobiles  satis  inter  mon- 
tium  devexa  amoenas  et  cultui  aptas  planities  explicant.  Lacus 
hie  inveniuntur  plus  minus  sexaginta,  exigui  illi  nec^  magni 
nominis,  piscosi  tamen  omnes,  avibusq^  aquaticis  divites,  non 
deest  enim  cignorum,  anatum  varii  generis,  anserum  item  334. 
multigenarum,  aliarumq^  copia.  unus  prae  caeteris  magnitudine 
insignis  Shin,  qui  flumen  ejusdem  nominis,  paulo  supra  Char- 
ronis  ostia,  ex  adverso,  in  fretum  dictum  effundit.  fluvius  hie 
catarracta  insignis,  ad  versus  quam  dum  eluctantur  salmoties,  in 
nassas  vimineas  delapsi,  praedae  cedunt,  fhivium  hunc,  cujus 
alveus  vix  sex  milliaria  a  lacu  ad  ostia  excedit,  nunquam  con- 
gelascere  vicinis  cunctis  concretis  affirmant. 

Jam  opes  maritimae  hanc  regionem  quoq^  beant,  et  quaecunc^ 
piscium  genera,  eac^  copiosissima  oceanus  vicinus  limitaneis 
provinciis  subministrat,  non  hie  desunt.  His  etiam  littoribus, 
quandoc^  cete,  balenae  varii  generis,  in  littora  ejiciuntur,  unde 
olei  ad  multos  usus  copia.  non  desunt  phocarum  aut  vitulorum 
marinorum  greges.  Asellorum  multa  genera,  quas  magnitu-, 
dine  aut  aliis  notis  inter  se  distinguuntur,  rhombi,  raiae, 
canis  nomine  dictus  piscis,  passeres,  pastinacae,  scombri,  soleae, 
squatinae,  anguillas  marinae,  bufones  marini  aspectu  foedi, 
caeterum  detracta  cute,  delicati  et  salubres  esui,  maltaq^  alia, 
imo  innumera  quae  septentrionibus  peculiaria  nondum  nomina 
apud  Latinos  invenere;  ac  ostreis,  congris,  mitulis,  cancris 
astacis,  channis,  cochleis,  locustis,  turbinibus,  umbilicis,  pec- 
tinibus  caeterisc^  testaceis,  Graecis  oa-rpaKoBep/jia  dictis,  fluvi- 
orum  ostia  et  rupes  marinae  scatent. 

Hinc  quotannis  varia  exportantur,  quae  pecunia  aut  aliis 
mercibus  in  usum  incolarum  perrnutantur,  frumentum,  prae- 
sertim  laudatissimum  hordeum,  sal,  carbones  fossiles,  salmones, 
caro  bubula,  pelles,  coria,  caseus,  saevum ;  excoquitur  quoq^  e 
venis  ferrum. 


420  SUTHERLANDIA 


Nulli  in  his  oris  glires  nec^  importati  navibus,  ut  saepe  casu 
fit,  hie  durant,  quod  mirum  fortasse  videatur,  cum  vicina 
Cathenesia  neq^  mari  neq^flumine  hinc  divisa,  quam  maxime  iis 
infestetur. 

Ad  aedificiorum  usum  varii  generis  saxa,  precipue  lapidis 
arenarii,  calcarii,  et  scandularum  ad  ea  contegenda  aptarum 
fodinae  frequentes  sunt. 

885.  Praecipuum  regionis  oppidum  Dornoch,  in  australi  ora  ad 
fretum  aut  sinum  qui  Rossiam  hinc  dividit,  ex  adverse  et  in 
conspectu  Thanae  oppidi,  arce  et  templo  Cathedrali  conspi- 
cuum,  Gilbertum  olim  Episcopum  fundatorem  agnoscit.  hie 
Comitum  regionis  sepulchretum  ;  Templi  parochialis  Divi  Barri 
nomine  in  urbe  supersunt  tantum  parietinae  ;  quaternis  nun- 
dinis  annuis  frequentatur  oppidum,  quas  sanctorum  nominibus, 
quorum  diebus  habentur,  veteri  consuetudine  notant,  Barri, 
Gilberti,  Bernardi,  Margaretae. 

Paulum  ab  oppido  ad  ortum  durat  monumentum  lapideum  in 
crucis  formam  deformatum  Craiskvoinvair  vulgo  dictum  id  est 
Thani  vel  Comitis  crux  ;  aliud  quoq^  hand  dissimile  ad  Enibo 
visitur,  Ri-croiss,  id  est,  regia  crux,  dictum  a  rege  Danorum  ibi 
casso  et  sepulto  nomen  habens. 

Oppidum  hoc  non  ita  pridem  D.  Robertus  Gordonius,  dum 
Comitis  nepotis  sui  ex  fratre  tutelam  ageret,  in  regale  et 
liberum  burgum  erigi  curavit,  concessis  ad  hoc  quibus  opus 
erat  immunitatibus. 

Multae  sunt  per  totam  regionern  sparsae  arces,  villas,  castella, 
prima  in  oppido  ut  diximus,  proxima  in  littore  Robino-dunum 
amaena  situ  hortis,  pomariis,  aquis  dulcibus  limpidissimis,  et 
amplo  vivario  ;  sunt  praeterea  Skelbo,  Skibo,  Pronsie,  Polrossy, 
Innershin,  Cuttil,  Embo,  Golspitour,  Golspikirktoun,  Abir- 
scors.  Ospidel.  Clyn,  Crakok,  Helmsdail,Torrish,  Doun-Creigh, 
Castel  urgoirr. 

Hujus  Comitatus  Comites  antiquae  et  nobilissimae  stirpis,  in 
supremo  ordinum  conventu,  inter  primos  locum  habent.  Vicime 
Strathnaverniae  Baro  Raeus  clientelari  jure  de  eo  multa  tenet. 
Navarchic^  quoc^  jura  in  suis  ditionibus  nonnullisc^  ad  eum 
spectant. 


CATHENESIA  421 

CATHENESIA.  386. 

Diximus  in  superioribus  quam  late  olim  vox  haec  Cattey  in 
his  oris  patuerit,  qua  hodie  sola  haec  provincia  de  qua  sermo  est, 
designetur  adjecta  particula  Ness,  quod  promontorium  signi- 
ficat.  diximus  quinam  populi  ante  multa  secula,  haec  loca 
insederint,  quorum  omnium  memoria  extincta  est ;  Caeterum 
notandum  est  multa  locorum  nomina  hodieq^  peregrinum  quid 
sapere,  quorum  origo  nec^  Scoticum,  Hybernicum,  Danicum 
aut  Norvegicum  aliquid  referat,  ac  ignotae,  incertae,  et  vetus- 
tissimae  originis  videntur  esse,  qualia  sunt  Ocbuster,  Lyibster, 
Robuster,  Trumbuster  et  innumera  alia,  sermo  hodiernus 
popularis,  ignobilis  satis,  Scoto-Hybernicus  est,  utriusc^ 
particeps,  neutrum  satis  referens. 

Hie  Scotiae  continentis  ultimus  limes,  quam  maxime  se  in 
arctum  porrigens  ad  viculum  Dungisbee,  vix  tribus  minutis 
primis  quinquagesimo  nono  gradu  latitudinis  septentrionalis 
abest. 

Notandum  hie  quanquam  Ptolomaeus  sua  Geographia  male 
edoctus,  has  oras  quae  recta  arctum  spectant,  in  orientem 
detorserit,  condonato  tamen  hoc  errore  caetera  satis  se  recte 
habebunt,  siquis  ea  quae  ille  in  ortum  deflexit,  ad  ortum 
reduxerit,  situs  regionum  satis  apposite  quadrabit. 

Ante  eum,  bsec  incognita  Romanis  fuisse  videntur,  qui  totam 
insulam  in  cuneum  desinere  arbitrati,  bipenni  earn  assimilavere, 
cum  revera  lata  fronte  hie  pateat.  quae  tribus  distincta  promon- 
toriis  agnoscitur,  quorum  primum  ad  orientem  Orcadas  ex 
adverso  spectans  dicto  autori  Veruvium  nominatur,  hodie 
Dungisby,  cum  revera  Orcas  promontorium  hie  collocari  de- 
buisset;  causa  erroris  quod  existimarit  Orcadas  magis  ad  occa- 
sum, quam  verus  earum  situs  sit,  positas  fuisse.  unde  quam 
proximum  iis,  ut  conjecit,  promontorium,  earum  nomine  insig- 
nivit.  Medium  in  hac  fronte  promontorium,  reductis  terris, 
ut  caetera  non  aeque  erninet.  Ptolomseo  Virvedrum,  hodie  Row 
Rachy, aut  Scotice  Strathy-head, nomine  agnoscitur.  Tertium  ad 
•occasum  Ptolomaei  Orcas,  et  Tarvedrum,  nobis  Faro  aut  Parro- 
head.  hinc  littora  inflexa,  in  austrum  aut  euro-austrum  declinant. 

Cathenesia  ad  austrum  et  occasum  hybernum,  ut  diximus,  a  387, 
Sutherlandia  [dividitur]  monte  altissimo  et  asperrimo  Ord,  qui 


422  CATHENESIA 

longe  in  mediterranea  se  porrigens,ad  montem  Knokfinn  limitem 
constituit.  Unde,  secundum  decursum  fluminis  Hallowdail  e 
fontibus  adusc^  ostia  et  montana  Drumnahallowdail  ad  idem 
flumen,  limes  inter  hanc  et  Strathnaverniam  habetur.  Orientale 
latus  oceano  alluitur,  et  quae  ad  arctum  vergunt,  saevo  et  peri- 
culoso  freto  Pentlandiae  nomine  ab  insulis  Orcadibus  dividitur. 
Fretum  hoc  navigantibus  formidolosum,  neq^  nisi  raro  quan- 
quam  positis  ventis  trajectui  opportunum.  causa  est,  cum  aestus 
maris  quotidianus  a  septentrionibus  incitetur,  Orcadas  circum- 
fusus,  et  interfusus  hie  primum  objectu  terrarum  coercetur, 
unde  vis  ilia  immensa  aquarum  multis  canalibus  insulas  illaS 
permeans,  deinde  reliquo  mari  in  hoc  freto  infusa,  formidabiles 
aquarum  vortices  et  reciprocantes  undas,  cum  navium  peri- 
culo  ciet. 

Si  ingenium  soli  respiciamus,  secundum  dram,  aut  fluminum 
decursus,  lit  plurimum  humile,  et  cultui  aptum,  segetes  omni- 
farias  ubertim  largitur,  neq^  quicquam  ad  vitam  sustentandum 
deest,  non  in  campis  aut  vallibus  gramen  pecori,  non  in 
montibus  aucupium  aut  venatio,  non  in  mari  aut  fluminibus 
piscatura  eaq^  eximie  copiosa.  Omnia  hie  exiguo  pretio 
venundantur,  vel  ob  copiam,  vel  rariora  commercia,  et  aeris 
inopiam. 

Solum,  ut  dixi,  largiter  fruges  ministrat,  nec^  solum  indige- 
narum  usibus  sed  quae  etiam  exportantur,  at  vitio  humescentis 
et  argillacei  soli  omnia  hie  tardius  maturescunt,  neq^  illis  ea 
bonitas  quae  vicinae  Sutherlandiag  aut  Rossiae  frugibus.  Regio 
silvae  plurimum  indiga ;  earn  in  usus  suos  e  proxima  Strathna- 
vernia,  permutatione  frugum,  quarum  ea  provincia  aeque  indiga^ 
mutuatur ;  in  ignis  usum  cedunt  cespites  aut  sub  iis  terra  nigra 
bituminosa  effossa  ad  alimentum  ignis  accomodatissima,  qua1 
nullibi  deest,  et  apud  omnes  septentrionales  nostros  populos 
in  usu  est. 

Montes  mediterranea  tenent,  qui  multi,  magni,  et  longissime 
888.  cernentibus  ex  adversis  Buquhaniae,  Boinae  et  Ainiae  littoribus 
apparent.     Omnium  vero  celsissimi  qui  a  virginum  mammis, 
quod  eas  referre  videantur,  nomen  habent. 

Multi  in  inferioribus  locis,  et  uliginosis  convallibus  lacusr 
per  quae  flumina  meant,  aut  iis  ortus,  nulli  tamen  majores  aut 
majoris  nominis,  quanquam  piscosi  omnes.  Flumina  crebra 


CATHENESIA  423 

satis,  mediocria  tamen,  nec^  longi  decursus  multum  circumam- 
biente  terrain  Oceano. 

Celeberrimum  provinciae  oppidum  Wick,  ad  orientalem 
oram  objectum  Oceano,  portu  appellendis  navibus  tutum ;  hie 
commercia  exercentur.  Alterum  est  objectum  septentrionibus 
in  exiguo  sinu,  Thurso  appellatur,  portu  quoc^et  statione  fida, 
commercia  suscipit  aut  ad  exteros  mittit.  Multse  per  omnem 
regionem  arces,  villas,  vici.  secundum  dominorum  ingenia  aut 
lucorum  opportunitatem  hie  illic  sparguntur,  quaedam  culti- 
oribus  aedificiis  aut  mrenium  firmitate  nitent.  Castrum  Sincleri 
olim  Gernigo  non  procul  Wicko  oppido,  Comitum  arx  primas 
tenet,  et  in  ejus  vicinia  Akergil,  quae  olim  ad  Kethorum  de 
Innerugie  familiam  spectavit,  quae  nunc  ad  Comites  hos  devo- 
luta  propter  alterius  viciniam  negligitur.  Ulterius  paulum 
progressis  arx  Comitis  Kees  visitur.  est  quoc^  in  extreme  sep- 
tentrione  paucis  milliaribus  a  Dungisby,  Maia  arx,  Sinclari- 
orum  itidem  amoena  habitatio.  Eorundem  itidem  in  australibus 
oris  est  Dumbetha  arx  rupi  marinae  inaedificata,  et  huic  vicina 
Berridail  ad  Comitem  spectans ;  sunt  et  multa  alia  non  sper- 
nenda  aedificia,  quae  omnia  memorare  non  est  operae  pretium. 

Regio  baec  Vicecomitatum  per  se,  ut  dixi,  constituit,  eaq^ 
Comitum  haereditaria  est  indulgentia  nuperi  Marchionis 
Huntilaei  in  affinem  suum. 

Comes  hie  Sanclariorum  cognominis  et  originis.  hujus  t.otius 
familiae  nobilissimus  Baro  Sanclarius  de  Raven s-heugh,  ut  in 
Fifas  descriptione  attigimus,  princeps  ab  antique  censetur,  389. 
cujus  majores  Orcadas  ac  Zetlandiam  Comitum  titulo  tenuer- 
ant,  affinitate  etiam  regiae  Danorum  domui,  ducta  in  uxorem 
eorum  filia,  juncti.  sed  cum  unius  mala  administratione,  qui 
Gulielmi  profusoris  nomine  apud  posteros  audiit,  his  pro- 
vinciis  excidissent,  mansere  tamen  plurimi  nobiles  privati  in 
iis  insulis,  hodieq^  etiam  nunc  manent.  iis  Comes  Cathenesius 
originem  suam  debet.  qui  nunc  propaginem  suam  per  hanc 
quam  describimus  provinciam  late  dissevit. 

Sunt  et  multae  aliae  antiquae  et  illustres  familiae,  quidam  qui 
raro  in  latifundiis  suis,  hie  unquam  lares  fixere,  ut  Kethi  de 
Inerugy,  quorum  omnem  haereditatem  creavit  nobilissimi  Mares- 
calli  Comitis  familia,  quae  eandem  de  Innerugy  ante  aliquot 
secula  genuerat,  Mowetti.aut  verius  de  monte  alto,  qui  hodie 


424,  STRATH  NAVERNA 

in  his  locis  avita  praedia  tenent.  indigenas  minores  familias 
recensere  longum  esset,  et  institute)  meo  alienum. 

Non  exigua  hujus  Comitatus  portio  de  Episcopo  in  feodo 
et  emphiteusi,  non  ita  pridem  tenebatur,  in  quam  postea  fiscus 
successit. 

Thursum  oppidum  prsetervecto  nulla  amplius  urbs,  nullum 
oppidum  quam  longe  uni versa  hac  regni  ora  occidua  por- 
rigitur  occurret,  donee  Britannodunum  in  intimo  recessu 
aestuarii  Glottae  appeilas ;  adeo  ad  Imnc  vitse  mansuetioris 
cultum,  qui  in  urbibus  frequentior,  hebescunt  incolarum 
ingenia,  qui  priscam  linguam,  priscumq^  vivendi  genus  mordicus 
sectantur;  at  vere  aestimanti  hoc  inertias  potius  quam  veterum 
imitation!  debetur.  Non  desunt  certe  multis  locis  urbium 
locandarum  opportunitates,  portus  maximi,  tutissimi,  capacis- 
simi,  maria  omnigenis  piscibus  plena,  terra  fcecunda,  et 
messibus  et  pecori  apta,  flumina  vecturae  idonea,  ac  his  omni- 
bus ignavia  parcit,  et  incolae  pecore  ut  plurimum  victitantes, 
domi  nati,  ibidem  ut  plurimum  aluntur  senescuntc^ ;  unde  ora 
hsec  exteris  omnibus,  imo  nostris,  minus  cognita  a  paucissimis 
videtur,  aut  commerciis  exercetur.  non  sum  nescius  nonnullos 
huic  moli  pares  locandis  urbibus  animos  appulisse,  ac  cum 
jura,  libertates,  imm  uni  bates  urbibus  solitae,  sine  quibus  con- 
stare  ilia  non  possent,  peterentur,  quanquam  sanctionibus  in 
id  promulgatis  invitatos,  adeo  fato  quodam  saepe  apud  nos 
prevalent  illicita,  votorum  impotes  earn  curam  abjecisse. 


390.  STRATH  NAVERNA. 

Regio  haec  a  Naverna  flumine  mediam  earn  secante  nomen 
habet.  qua  desinit  Cathenesia  ad  flumen  Hallowdail  incipit, 
et  recta  in  occasum  pergit.  Sinu  et  flumine  Durenish  ab  Edir- 
da-Chewlis  divisa,  a  septentrione  vastum  et  apertum  [mare] 
nullam<k  terram,  nullam  insulam  objectam  habet  adusc^  peni- 
tissimos  septentriones :  a  meridie  ut  diximus  Sutherlandia 
proxima  est,  montibus  altissimis  ab  ea  divisa.  Regio  in  uni- 
versum  montana,  montibus,  iisq^  crebris,  altis,  asperis,  nivosis 
attollitur.  Lacus  in  convallibus  non  exigui,  silvis  frequens 
est,  portus  sane  non  desunt  egregii.  at  pecori  quam  messibus 


STRATH  NAVERNA  425 

aptior,  de  frugibus  non  sibi  sufficit,  quam  inopiam  vicina 
Cathenesia  permutatione  silvae  plerunq^  solatur.  At  innumeros 
bourn,  equorum,  caprarum  aliorumq^  mansuetorum  animalium 
numeros  hie  cernere  licet,  cervorum,  damarum,  ferinae  omnis 
ingens  copia.  luporum  rapacissimorum,  qui  hie  per  silvestria 
et  avia  observantes  magno  animalium  damno,  nonnunquam  et 
hominum,  tanta  vis,  tamq^  frequentes,  ut  tota  paene  reliqua 
insula  exacti,  hie  sedes  et  domicilia  collocasse  videantur ; 
nullibi  certe  tarn  frequentes.  Incolarum  industria  quantum 
per  coelum  et  solum  licet,  suis  exercet  bubus  rura,  quae  secun- 
dum  tractum  littoris  porriguntur,  nam  paulo  inter! us  nisi 
raris  locis,  montana  fluminibus  incumbentia  hagc  riegant.  At 
mare,  sinus,  flumina  mirum  quam  piscosa  omnia.  unde 
quotannis  non  mediocris  census  incolis,  domino  praesertim,  ex 
sahnonum  captura  redit.  Hie  exercentur  ferrariae  et  beneficio 
silvarum  excoquitur  ferrum  e  venis  quod  exportatum  lucro 
cedit.  Exportantur  in  vicina  nundinarum  loca  bourn  et 
pullorum  equinorum  magni  numeri,  mari  quoq^  bovilla  caro 
salita  et  in  dolia  ad  usum  navigantium  condita,  pelles,  tergora 
bourn  cervorumc^,  sevum  aliaq^.  porcina  caro  hie  ut  ubiq^  parcior. 
et  hoc  semel  de  universe  regno  dixisse  sufficiat,  porcinam  car- 
nem  ut  plurimum  despici  et  in  usum  vilis  plebeculae  cedere, 
multos  earn  plane  abhorrere.  Sunt  in  regno  nostro  ex  oppor- 
tunitatibus  fluminum  et  rivorum  inter  montes  aut  colles 
delabentium  infinite  molatrinae,  quarum  custos  antiqua  con-  391. 
suetudine  pendit  quotannis  domino,  praeter  alia,  porcum  castra- 
tum,  quandoc^  plures.  hie  mos,  qui  etiamnum  durat,  nisi 
impediisset,  credibile  est  porcinum  omne  genus  jamdudum 
absolitum  fuisse. 

Mirum  videbitur  Danos  cum  Anglos  subj  ugarent,  et  nostrum 
regnum  affligerent,  has  etiam  oras  infestasse  et  hie  sedes  quaesi- 
visse.  at  hoc  certum  est  et  uno  alteroc^  in  littore  loco  durant 
victoriarum  contra  eos  monumenta  et  perennat  memoria. 
In  littore  sabuloso  inter  duo  eximia  flumina  Navern  et 
Torrisdaill  quorum  ostia  ad  duum  millium  intervalla  adinvicem 
absunt,  ruinae  nunc  mari  et  sabulo  haustae  testantur  oppidum 
quondam  fuisse,  at  nunc  nulla  amplius,  ut  superius  in  Cathenesia 
dixi,  in  his  oris  supersunt.  tota  base  provincia  vicatim  habi- 
tatur.  Dynasta  ad  ostia  Navernae  aedes  Farr  dictas,  et  interius 


426  STRATH  NAVERNA 

ad  sinum,  Kintail  commodo  loco  habet,  nonnullisc^  aliis 
locis. 

Secatur  haec  provincia  in  quinc^  regiunculas,  quae  hoc 
ordine,  incipiendo  ab  ortu,  secundum  littus  exporriguntui\ 
Hallowdail,  fluminibus  Hallowdail  et  Strathy  conclusa; 
Strath  Naverna  totius  regionis  nomine  inter  Strathy  et 
Navernam,  fluvios  ;  tertia  est  Kintail  inter  sinum  ejusdem 
nominis  et  Navernam  ;  proxima  West  Moan  a  dicto  sinu  ad 
sinum  Grebil  et  inde  ad  sinum  Durenish  fluviumc^  cognominem ; 
Durenish  regiuncula,  prae  caeteris,  melioris  et  feracioris  soli. 

Venatus  hie  crebri,  cervorum  presertim,  aucupia  crebra  hie, 
invitantibus  ad  haec  soli  et  hominum  geniis.  et  qui  se  non 
venatu  exerceat  eoq^  unice  delectetur,  homo  apud  eos  nihili 
habetur,  unde  ferinae  in  paratu  magna  semper  copia. 

Homines  hie  validi,  robusti,  patientes  laborum,  parcimonia? 
assueti,  ne<^  tamen  ea  morum  severitate  quam  asperitas  regionis 
promittere  videretur,  at  ingenua  simplicitate  hilares,  in 
epulas  aut  invicem  aut  cum  exteris  advenientibus  effusi.  nihil 
392.  subdolum  animis  versant.  eadem  quoc^  animorum  morumq^ 
ratio  omnibus  caeteris  vicinis  provinciis,  de  quibus  dictum  est, 
quod  in  singularum  descriptionibus  recensuisse  non  amplius 
necessum  habeo. 

Commune  est  omnibus  iis  regionibus  qui  lingua  prisca 
loquuntur  ut  Dominum  suum  quam  maxime  venerentur,  colant, 
diligant,  pro  eo  depugnent,  in  periculis  non  inviti  vitam 
deponant,  et  praeter  consueta  praediorum  onera,  si  quando 
necessitas  incumbat,  Domino  elocante  filiam,  nomen  dissol- 
vente,  latifundia  impignorata  redimente,  aut  nova  comparante, 
ut  vectigalibus  extraordinariis,  lubenter  quartam  aut  quintam 
vaccam,  (nam  boves  mares  alere  insuetum)  lubenter  omnes  sine 
discrimine  divitiarum  aut  paupertatis  contribuant,  quae  im- 
positio  olim  ad  predictos  usus  adhiberi  solita,  nunc  singulis 
lustris  aut  trienniis,  quanquam  cessantibus  causis,  exigi  con- 
suevit,  ac  patienter,  sic  ferente  consuetudine,  toleratur. 

Dominus  regionis  hodiernus  Donaldus  Mackasus  Raeae  Baro. 
qui  hanc  longa  serie  a  majoribus  possessam  nunc  ditione 
tenet,  sicut  et  proxime  dicendum. 


EDIR-DA-CHEULIS— MORAVIA  427 

EDIR-DA-CHEULIS. 

Si  vocem  regiunculae  e  prisca  lingua  interpreteris.  significat 
inter  duo  freta.  sic  revera  positus  ejus  est,  ab  ortu  enim  aestivo 
a  Durenish  ad  sinum  Cheulis-Cung  in  occasum  hybernum 
porrigitur,  ubi  vicinam  regiunculam  Assynt  habet,  tota  silvis, 
montibus,  aviis  horrida,  culturae  aut  segetum  nisi  paucissimis 
locis  impatiens.  Mare  ut  vicina  omnia,  piscosum,  sinus  hale- 
cibus  faecundi.  Monies  venatui  et  aucupiis  aptississimi ;  'ad 
exiguum  lacum  Stacky  tractus  est  silvestris,  ubi  cervi  omnes, 
bifurcatis  caudis  reperiuntur.  in  isthmo  ad  promontorium 
Faro-head,  cervorum  gregibus  eo  compulsis  et  hominum  mul- 
torum  indagine  aut  mari  clausis,  jucunda  ac  fselix  venatio. 
incolse  rari,  cum  hsec  aspera  et  avia  paucos  alant,  attamen  393. 
pecori  opportuna,  equorum  bourn  caprarum  gregibus  egregie 
plena,  unde  nec^  pisces,  caro  aut  lacticinia  desunt.  superioribus 
temporibus  Sutherlandiam  dominum  agnoscebat,  nunc  vero 
Strath  Naverniae  accensetur,  ejusc^  Dynastam  dominum 
habet. 

MORAVIA. 

Moravian!  descripturis  hoc  nobis  verissime  praefari  liceat 
earn  saluberrimo  caelo  nulli  inferiorem,  indulgentia  et  boni- 
tate  terrae  clementiac^  aeris  longe  omnibus  ceteris  arctois  pro- 
vinciis  antecellere.  Aeris  hie  tanta  temperies,  ut  omnibus 
circum-circa  hyemis  saevitia  rigentibus,  neq^  nives  perennent, 
neq^  gelu  aliquid  magni  incommodi  fructibus  aut  arboribus 
pariat.  Unde  verissimum  experimur  quod  incolae  jactant,  se 
quotannis  quadraginta  serenos  sen  tire  dies  supra  vicinos 
omnes.  nihil  ullibi  toto  regno  provenit,  quod  non  faeliciter 
hie  luxuriet,  aut  si  desit,  incolarum  socordise,  non  coeli  aut  soli 
vitio  adscribendum  est.  si  segetes  respiciamus,  eas  mira  et 
constant!  cornucopia  fundit  tellus.  si  fructus,  omnigenarum 
arborum,  herbas,  flores,  legumina  hie  omnia  affatim  cernere 
licet,  eaq,  omnia  tempestiva,  apud  alios  vix  ccepto  autumno,  hie 
omnia  foeliciter  mature  desecuntur,  ac  in  areas  subdiales,  ut 
mos  gentis,  convehuntur.  et  si  earn  regionem  casteris  compare- 
mus  vix  sentitur  hyems.  aperta  fere  semper  tellus,  maria 
patescunt,  nee  intercluduntur  itinera,  at  cum  multum  terrae- 


428  MORAVIA 

messibus  occupetur,  herba  parcior,  est  enim  tota  haec  regio 
culturae  et  segeti  dicata,  ac  pastio  non  longe  petenda,  supra 
enim  in  mediterraneis  ad  pauca  millia  passuum  satis  superc^ 
est,  quo  quotannis  jam  adulta  asstate  boves  laboribus  rusticis 
finitis  ablegantur.  Nullibi  instructius  macellum  quam  hie 
cernere  licet,  nullibi  viliori  pretio  annona,  nee  hoc  inopia 
aeris,  sed  ex  abundantia,  at  incolae,  ut  sagpe  in  foelici  solo,  in 
multis  inertes.  mari  strenue  se  piscatura  exercent,  eaq^  vicinos 
omnes  excellunt.  in  inferioribus  ad  littora  locis  laboratur  inopia 
glebae  ad  ignis  usum,  quodq^  solum  incommodum  sentit  haec 
beatissima  regio,  sed  et  illud  paucis  locis,  ei  strenue  compo- 
tando  medentur,  nam  et  hoc  fatendum  est.  et  strenue  se 
agricultura  exercentes  parum  otiosi,  parum  hoc  aut  sentiunt 
aut  curant.  Siticulosa  tellus  haec  frequentes  imbres  aestivos 
desiderat,  at  exubertate  messis,  quibus  contra  quam  vicinis 
locis,  non  gravius  ariditate  terrae  malum. 

Regio  haec  a  Nesso  fluvio  ejusq^  ostiis  secundum  littus 
adusq^  Spaeae  fluvii  ostia,  si  ab  oppidis  ad  oppida,  ut  itineris 
fert  ratio,  te  conferas,  ad  triginta  quatuor  milliaria  complecti- 
tur.  at  latitudine  impar.  eximia  haec  terrae  ubertas  vix  sex 
aut  septem  milliaria  excedit,  aliquando  angustior. 

Solum  est  humile,  quandoc^  in  amoenos  colles  assurgens, 
plerunc^  arenaceum  sed  admista  semper  argilla,  cui  superfuso 
lagtamine  mire  pinguescit. 

Praeter  dictos  fluvios  limitaneos,  irrigatur  Narno  et  Findorno 
fluminibus,  etiamq^  ad  Elginam  urbem  Loxia  fluviolo. 

Nessus  fluvius,  si  fontes  ejus  quaerantur,  haud  procul  mari 
Vergivio  e  lacu  Coich  defluit,  unde  nomine  Coich  assumpto 
post  aliquot  milliarium  cursum,  in  ortum  brumalem  tendens 
ingreditur  lacum  Garrif  quern  permeans  jam  Garrif  dictus, 
tertium  lacum  Eawich  dictum  allapsus,  jam  in  ortum  aestivum 
se  reflectens,  ad  duum  milliarium  intervallum  Nessum  lacum 
subit  viginti  quatuor  milliarium  longum,  qui  lacus  horrido 
inculto  et  aspero  circunquac^  solo.  Nunquam  tamen  glaciem 
sentit.  lacu  exiens  ad  quatuor  milliaria  Innernessam  urbem  ad 
moenia  alluens,  subit  Vararis  aestuarium. 

Narnius  fluvius  in  montanis  quae  Strath-Herinam  et 
Glentarf  tractus  separant,  ortus,  tractumc^  sibi  cognominem 
(Strath  Nairn  vocant)  dividens  in  ortum  aestivum  cursu  per- 


MORAVIA  429 

gens  ad  urbeculam  .itidem  sui  nominis  mare  ingreditur,  sine 
portu  tamen. 

Findornus  fluvius  iis  jugis  oritur  quag  Baden ochani,  Glen- 
tarfam  et  Strath  Erinam  separant,  ac  longo  cursu  Herinus 
dictus,  unde  tractus  quern  irrigat  Strath  Herina  dicitur,  jam 
mari  propior  Findorni  nomine  assumto,  praeteritis  Tarnvaio 
arce,  Forressa  oppido,  Killossa  opulento  et  magni  nominis 
olim  Coenobio  ostia  hahet.  qua  mare  subit,  sub  ipsa  ostia  in 
occasum  reflexus,  unde  quanvis  portus  satis  tutus  sit,  quaerenti 
tamen  difficilis. 

Loxia  pauculis  supra  Elginam  urbem  milliaribus,  e  tribus 
rivis  una  confluentibus  ortus,  earn  urbem  ad  septentrionem 
alluens,  non  longe  illinc  in  mare  defluit.  Nulla  re  insignis, 
nisi  quod  exundationibus  multum  damni  saepe  dat  vicinis 
cam  pis  uberrimis,  praesertim  efFusis  in  vicinum  lacum  Spynie 
undis,  unde  multum  egregiae  telluris  haustum  lacui  accessit, 
neq^  quotidie  cessat  malum. 

Spea  fluvius  ingens,  limpidus,  rapidissimus,  omnium  secun- 
dum  Taum  maxim  us,  emergit  ex  exiguo  lacu  sui  nominis,  in 
jugis  montium  qui  Badenocham  et  Lochabriam  interjacent, 
ut  plurimum  in  ortum  aestivum  incitato  impetu,  altis  undic^ 
montibus  septus,  silvisq^  coronatus,  multis  fluviis,  innumeris 
torrentibus  e  montium  praecipitiis  auctus,  donee  intra  sex 
oiilliaria  mari  appropinquaverit  cum  recta  in  arctum  deflexo 
cursu,  plana  et  culta  secans  multum  damni  vicinis  locis  et 
campis  dans,  ostia  subit.  nullo  portu  insignis,  minora  navigia 
aegre  admittit,  vix  ad  mille  passus  aestum  sentiens,  non  raro 
aestivis  caloribus,  nullis  imbribus,  flantibus  Zephyris  qui  undas  396. 
impellunt,  intumescit.  nullus  Britannia?  fluvius,  proventu  sal- 
monum,  ei  par,  praster  Deam  et  Donam,  quern  tamen  utcunque 
variis  annis  agquat,  condiuntur  enim  et  exportantur  hinc 
quotannis  octuaginta,  saepe  supra  centum  lastas,  ut  vocant. 
quarum  singula  duodecim  doliis  constant,  quarum  si  ratio  ad 
tonnas  ineatur,  quarta  parte  excedent.  Tota  haec  tarn  quaes- 
tuosa  dominis  piscatura,  inter  paucissimos  aestivos  menses,  et 
intra  milliaris  unius  spatium  absolvitur  ad  vicum  Germack 
dictum.  Toto  cursu  a  fontibus  piscatura  exercetur,  at  vix  con- 
diuntur, sed  in  quotidianos  usus  cedunt,  et  tridentibus  fascinis 
manu  in  pisces  natantes  jactis,  aut  corbibus  vimineis  corio 


430  MORAVIA 

circumtectis  noctu  piscatio  haec  instituitur.  corbes  has  apprime 
Lucanus  describit : 

Primum  cana  salix  madefacto  vimine  parvam 
Texitur  in  puppim,  caesoq,  induta  juvenco 
Vectoris  patiens,  tumidum  supereminet  amnem. 

Corbes  has  nemo  sanus  aut  inexpertus  conscenderit,  assueti 
tamen  audacter,  cessante  omni  alio  trajectu,  feroci  fluvio  supra 
modum  intumescenti  foeliciter  se  credunt.  Jus  tarn  lucrosae 
in  hoc  flumine  piscaturae  ad  Caenobium  Pluscardense,  ab 
antique  spectabat.  de  qua  re  fama  ad  nos  manavit,  quendam  e 
regibus  nostris  antiquioribus,  cujus  nomen  intercidit,  ex 
itinere  in  hoc  caenobium  devertisse,  epulisc^  minime  regalibus 
exceptum,  miranticj^  apparatum  vilem  Caenobiarcham  hoc  ex 
inopia  excusasse  ;  subjicienti  regi  quid  vis  se  praestiturum  quod 
sine  aliorum  injuria  concedi  posset,  Caenobiarcham  repondisse 
nihil  jam  vacui  in  terra  relictum,  omnibus  possessis,  petere  se 
solum  paucafluminis  stadia  quae  neminem  laederentet  juris  regii 
essent,  quod  annuente  rege  facile  concessum  est.  Provincia 
397.  haec  in  duas  praefecturas  sen  Vicecomitatus  dividitur  prima 
eaq^  major  Elginae  et  Forressae  nominibus  venit.  altera 
angustior  Narniensis  a  nomine  urbeculas  vocatur.  Excipi- 
untur  hinc  praedia  et  terrae  quae  ad  Episcopatum  Moravi- 
ensem  ab  antique  spectabant.  in  his  enim  jura  regalia 
Episcopus  habebat,  quae  nunc  fisco  cesserunt.  Aliquan- 
tulum  quoq^  soli  circa  Innernessam  urbem  ad  earn  praefecturam 
pertinet. 

Oppida  sunt  Innernessa,  ad  Nessi  ostia,  qui  ponte  sublicio 
trajicitur,  portu  infido  et  minorum  navium  solum  capaci, 
ceterum  commodissimo  loco  posita  et  ad  regionum  vicinarum 
commercia  suscipienda  idoneo.  Antiquitus  regum  domicilium, 
arx  in  amoeno  colle  urbem  et  viciniam  omnem  late  despicit. 
Ager  suburbanus  foecundus  ;  nihil  deest,  nisi  quod  gleba  ilia  de 
qua  dixi,  qua  instruitur  focus,  parcior  et  longius  petenda. 
Potus  omnium  harum  provinciarum  cervisia,  cum  lupulo, 
frequentius  sine  eo,  antique  more  decocta.  non  deest  omnibus 
his  oppidis,  vini  transmarini  copia,  aequo  satis  pretio. 
Memini  me  adolescentem  cum  Lutetia  domum  redirem,  vidisse 
vinum  Rotomagi  longe  carius  veniisse  quam  post  paucos 


MORAVIA  431 

menses,  idem  in  his  regionibus  venibat.  erat  autem  utrunq^ 
Burdigala  advectum,  causa  autem  erat  modicum  apud  nos 
vectigal,  ac  prseter  vina,  habent  nativum  suum  liquorem  aquam 
vitae  dictum,  quo  praesente,  nunquam  autem  deest,  fastidiuntur 
vina  etiam  generosissima.  extrahitur  liquor  hie  a  cerevisia, 
aromatibus  adhibitis,  ubiq^  fere,  et  tanta  copia  ut  omnibus 
sufficiat.  hoc  se  ingurgitant  plenis  haustibus  ut  peregrinis 
miraculo  sit.  Nemo  melioris  fere  notae  abstemius.  nee  hanc 
infamiam  matronae  effugiunt.  itinerantes  asperrima  hyeme, 
intensissimis  frigoribus,  lagenula  hujus  liquoris  et  caseolis 
aliquot  muniti,  nam  de  opsonio  aut  pane  parum  solliciti  sunt, 
longissima  itinera  sine  aliquo  incommodo  pedibus  emetiuntur. 
et  quanquam  hagc  ad  hanc  urbem  notaverim,  communis 
omnium  harum  regionum  hie  mos  est. 

Paulum  sequendo  littus,  visitur  nova  substructio  Moravise 
Comitum,  castrum  Stuarti  vocant,  amoeno  et  fertili  loco  posita, 
'cui  adhaeret  ecclesia  parochialis  Pettie  vocata,  ubi  superioribus 
temporibus  servabantur  ossa  gigantea  Joannis  per  antono- 
masiam  Parvi  dicti,  quae,  flammis  absumta  Ecclesia  intra  meam  338. 
«tatem,  non  amplius  comparent.  propius  ad  urbem  est 
Cullodin  arx,  neque  longe  illinc  Dacus  Baronis  Fraserii  de 
Lovat  aedes  visendae,  ac  legendo  oram,  praeterito  Ardyrsyir 
ubi  trajectus  est,  solitude  est,  ubi  Danorum  exercitus  caedis 
vestigia  memoriam  facti  tenent. 

Sequitur  Narna  ad  ostia  Narni  littore  arenoso  posita,  ubi 
si  quid  mihi  contra  omnium  consensum  dicere  liceat,  hie 
Ptolomaeum  Alata-Castra  locasse  video,  quae  caeteri  ad  Edim- 
burgum  retulerunt.  Nulla  certe  in  numeris  ejus  menda,  cum 
ille  eo  loco,  institutam  descriptionem  numeris  apte  succeden- 
tibus  persequatur.  faciem  hujus  loci  mutavit  vetustas,  ac 
mare  aggestis  arenis  bonam  uberrimae  terras  portionem  partim 
delevit  partim  hausit.  apparent  hodie,  recedente  aestu,  rudera 
magnificae  ac  praeclarae  arcis,  sed  de  hoc  viderint  alii. 

Tenus  flumine  diversas  visuntur  arces,  inferiorisc^  nobilitatis, 
quos  Gentlemen  patria  voce  vocant  aedes.  quorundam  nomina 
attingam.  Lochluy  a  lacu  dicta  quod  illic  mare  brevem  sinum 
facit,  sequuntur  Inshok,  Kinudie,  Penig,  Kinsterie.  Auld-Ern 
vicus  habet  vicinam  rupem  cujus  fragmina  decussa  ignibus 
-ardent,  ac  flammam  dant.  Manente  interim  saxi  mole,  mihi 


432  MORAVIA 

videtur  sulphuris  vivi  vena,  nam  cinerei  aut  grisei  colons  est. 
eodem  modo  ardet  et  sulphur  aliquantulum  olet. 

Ascendendo  flumen,  occurrit  Park-Caddel  arx,  ubi  est 
pyritis  vena  aerisc^  non  obscura  indicia,  diversa  ripa  sedet 
Kilraok  Rossiorum  arx.  Ulterius  littus  sequendo  nihil 
habetur  praeter  campos  junco  marino  et  humili  junipero  tectos, 
et  innumera  phocarum  examina  quse  multum  damni  salmoni- 
bus  insidiantes  dant,  donee  Covvbin  et  ostia  Findorni  veniatur, 
supra  Cowbin  apparent  Grangebil,  Brodie,  Earlesmill,  Moynes, 
Lethin,  ad  rivum  qui  in  Findornum  defluit.  omnes  hae  jucunda^ 
399.  sunt  habitationes,  et  solo  faelici  positse.  Ad  fluvium  infra 
silvam  videtur  Tarn  way,  antiquissima  Moraviensium  arx  et 
sedes.  Duobus  inde  milliaribus  in  adversa  ripa  est  Forres. 
oppidum  amoeno  loco,  si  quod  aliud  septentrionis,  positum, 
olim  regum  habitatione  et  arce  quae  nunc  paene  defecit,  insigne. 
At  hodie  priorem  magnificentiam  non  tuetur.  Paulum  infra 
hoc  est  coenobium  olim  magni  nominis,  opulentum  et  magnifice 
extructum,  Killos,  sed  fato  rerum  hodie  parum  antiqui  splen- 
doris  manet.  ad  illud  in  flumine  sunt  moles  ad  excipiendos 
pisces  decedente  aestu,  ut  in  Rossia  diximus.  In  bivio,  qua 
iter  est  Forressam,  stat  ingens  columna  lapidea,  tota  picturis- 
incisa.  historia  ea  est  monumentum  nobilis  pugnae  cum  copiis 
Danicis  habitae,  a  Milcolumbo  Mackennetho,  quae  a  ducibus 
Suenonis  regebantur.  Nunc  pleraq^  vetustate  adesa,  nec^  ullse 
apparent  literae. 

Inter  hanc  et  Elginam  ad  octo  milliaria  a  dextris  et  sinistris- 
innumerae  arces,  villae,  vici,  quos  numerare  nihil  opus  est.  paucos 
attingam.  Altyr  ad  Cuminios  spectans,  quae  gens,  ante 
trecentos  annos  omnium  Scotiae  nobilium  et  supra  omnes 
Scotorum  proceres  potentissima  et  numerosissima,  jam  paene 
defecit.  tenuerat  ea  gens  Buquhaniae  maximam  partem, 
Strathbogiam  universam,Balvaniam,  Badenocham,Lochabriam, 
Atholiam  et  multa  alia  in  his  oris,  multa  quoc^  in  australibus 
regni  nostri,  quas  mihi  nunc  non  occurrunt,  ecclesiasticos  quoq^ 
reditus  non  exiguos,  sed  cum  a  partibus  Edwardi  primi  Anglo- 
rum  regis,in  patriae  ded ecus, contra  Robertum  primum  vindicero 
nostrum  stetissent,  perduellionis  rei,  iis  omnibus  exciderunt, 
maximamq^  partem  aut  misere  periere  aut  solum  vertere. 

Sequuntur     Kilbuyac,    Boge,    Aslyisk,    Burgie,     Ernesyd^ 


MORAVIA  433 

Hemprigs,  Petti ndreich,  Mayne,  Quarrelwood,  Inchebrok, 
Funrassie,  Dufhous  ad  caput  lacus  Spynie,  cujus  exundationi- 
bus  multum  damni  quotidie  sentit,  Gordonstoun,  Kirktoun 
Drenie,  et  in  ora  the  Burgh  unde  quotidianus  in  Rossiam,W 
Sutherlandiam  et  Cathenesiam  trajectus.  proxima  est  Rosyl, 
ubi  arenae  mari  excitse  ventis,  non  exiguam  optimae  terrae 
portionem  hauserunt.  inferius  ad  ripam  lacus  Bellormie,  eic^ 
contiguus  vicus  cum  Ecclesia,  King  Edward,  solo  uberrimo 
positus,  nomine  ejus  Angliae  regis  dictus  qui  nihil  non 
tyrannide  sua  insederat.  in  eo  vico  olim  insigne  palatium,  ut 
chartse  ibidem  scriptse  adhuc  testantur,  fuerat.  cujus  nihil 
hodie  superest. 

Trans  Loxiam  flumen  est  Innes  Baronis  Innesii  domus,  qui 
multa  in  propinquo  latifundia  tenet  adusq^  Spaeam,  et  in 
flumine  non  exiguam  piscaturae  partem.  Sequuntur  Leuchars, 
Urchart,  Cokstoun,  Ortoun  ad  trajectum  Spseae.  et  supra  earn 
Rothes  arx,  cui  debet  titulos  illustrissimus  Comes  Rothesius,  ut 
in  Fifa  attigimus.  Supra  Elginam  urbem  paucis  milliaribus 
ad  Loxiam  est  Pluscarden  antiquum  et  opulentum  ccenobium, 
ac  cui  nihil  praeter  Abbatem  deerat,  a  Priore  enim  regebatur. 
Haec  loca  e  quamplurimis  attigimus,  omnia  enim  recensere 
difficile  et  inutile  censeo.  Superest  Elgina  prsefecturae  caput, 
ubi  jus  dicitur,  non  ita  pridem  Episcopi  sedes.  Loxia  earn  ad 
ortum  et  septentrionem  variis  flexibus  errans  ambit.  Solo 
arenaceo  at  insigniter  fertili  positae  arcis  rudera  in  arenaceo 
colle  ad  ortum  flumini  incumbunt.  Templum  in  ea  Cathedrale 
aut  potius  parietinae  templi,  quod  dum  floreret,  magnitudine, 
splendore,  insignis  artificii  labore,  omni  deniq^  exquisita  magni- 
ficentia,  omnia  non  solum  septentrionis,  sed  totius  regni 
templa  excelluisse  videtur.  Episcopus  laxas  ac  amoenas  aedes, 
firmissima  arce  munitas  Spynie  dictas  ad  lacus  ripam  ejusdem 
nominis  altero  ab  urbe  lapide,  ubi  deversaretur,  habuit,  quae 
hodie  supersunt,  jucundissimis  hortis  et  silva  quae  jam  defecit 
circundatas.  Lacum  frequentat  omne  genus  aquaticarum 
alitum,  cygnorum  praesertim,  quorum  hie  magnus  numerus. 
herba  innascitur  lacui,  caule  recto,  foliolis  hyperico  haud 
absimilibus,  majoribus  tamen  semine  racemoso  in  summo  caule. 
flores  non  observavi.  nunquam  se  aquis  erexit,  nee  purum  aerem  401. 
videt.  Olorinam  accolae  vocant,  quam  nondum  botanici  ob- 

VOL.  n.  SE 


MORAVIA 

servarunt,  sicut  nee  innunieras  alias  hujus  climatis  indigenas. 
hane  sectantur  cygni,  hac  libenter  vescuntur,  unde  tanta  iis 
cum  hac  lacu  familiaritas.  Jam  si  urbem  spectes,  nullus  aedibus 
nitor,  nullus  talis  cult  us  qualem  tarn  beata  regio  meretur,  quod 
plane  socordiam  incolarum  arguit,  at  introgresso  nihil  in  mensa 
desiderabitur,  larga  omnia,  optima  omnia,  gens  comis,  hilaris, 
aperta,  ac  in  epulas,  pocula  prsesertim  effusa. 

Fama  refert  Thomae  Randulfo  fortissimo  hujus  regionis 
Comiti  a  bello  reduci  occurrisse  magnum  viduarum  hujus  urbis 
agmen  quarum  viri  acie  ceciderunt,  orbitatem  et  egestatem 
deflentes ;  ilium  misertum  statuisse  ut  ager  suburbanus  in  par- 
ticulas  quas  Octavas  hodieq^  appellant  secaretur  non  quod  octo 
tantum  sint,  nam  magnus  earum  numerus  est,  sed  id  nominis 
datum.  statuisse  praeterea  ut  temporibus  futuris,  civium 
viduae  earum  partium  usumfructum  haberent  dum  vita 
maneret,  quarum  mariti  possessores  decessissent,  quod  nunc 
quoque  tenetur. 

Supra  Elginam,  Forressam,  Narnam,  in  mediterranea  per- 
genti,  occurrunt  colles  et  regio  aridior,  nec^  inferior!  com- 
paranda,  hanc  the  brae  of  Murray  id  est  Moraviam  superiorem 
vocant.  ulterius  procedenti  silvestria,  avia,  montes  herbidaec^ 
valles  videntur. 

Supersunt  tres  regiunculae  Strath- Ark  eg,  Strath  Nairn, 
Strath-Herin,  nam  Strath-Speam  in  alium  locum  rejicimus. 
non  est  quod  iis  immoremur.  Strath  Arkeg  vel  Errigig  vel  ut 
effertur  Strath  Herrig  ad  fluviolum  eiusdem  nominis  qui  se  in 
Nessum  lacum  exonerat  posita  est.  tota  aspera,  lacubus,  rivulis 
montibusq,,  distincta,  vicatim  habitata,  ad  Haronem  Fraserium 
de  Lovat  ejusq^  clientes  pertinet. 

Strath  Narnia  meliore  solo,  ad  decursum  Narni  fluminis  sita 
est.  a  variis  dominis  possidetur. 

.  Strath  Herina  secundum  flumen  Findornum  jacet,  culta 
satis  et  villis  vicisc^  frequens,  in  ea  est  Moya  lacus,  et  in  ejus 
insula  aedes  Makumtoish  dinastae,  quae  vox  Thani  filium  signi- 
ficat.  Thani  hi  antiquitus  praefecti  regionum  erant  et  primae 
nobilitatis  proceres,  in  horum  locum  circa  Milcolumbi  Can- 
Moir  tempora  successere  Comites,  ignotum  antea  nobis  digni- 
tatis  genus.  Dinasta  hie  de  quo  sermo  est,  antiquissimae  et 
late  sparsae  familiar  princeps  est ;  ea  tribus  Catanea  appellatur. 


MORAVIA  435 

haec  tribus  per  hanc  regiunculain  sparsa  est,  etiamc^  in  multis 
inferioris  Moravia?  locis.  Badenocham  etiam  eorum  propago 
tenet,  sub  nomine  Pharsaneorum,  etiamc^  Marriam  superiorem, 
sub  nomine  filiorum  Ferchardi. 

Prsefectura  juridica  Elginae  et  Forressae  ad  Dumbarrorum 
familiam  hereditarie  pertinet,  quae  in  locis  circa  Forressam  late 
dominatur,  et  ad  Comites  Moraviae,  ejus  cognominis,  qui  jam 
a  longo  tempore  defecerunt,  originem  referunt.  Circa  Elginam 
ejusck  viciniam  Innesiorum  gens,  Dumbarrorum  semula,  cujus 
familiae  princeps  Baro  Innesius,  suas  sedes  habent. 

Moraviae  Comitum  titulus,  saspe  in  diversas  familias  traductus 
fuit,  cujus  historia  incerta  et  confusa  est.  eum  tenuit  Thomas 
Randolfus  Roberti  priini  ex  sorore  nepos,  vir  non  sine  laude 
dicendus,  qui  extincto  avunculo,  magna  fide  et  fortitudine 
regnum  proregis  titulo  administravit.  postea  transiit  ad  Dum- 
barros.  Duglassii  eum  circa  Jacobi  Secundi  tempora  tenuere, 
aliquando  ad  fiscum  devolutus  est.  quandot^  Huntilaei  Comites 
in  eum  jus  sibi  acquisiverunt.  quo  privati  a  Maria  Guisia 
dotaria  regni.  Maria  Regina,  ejus  filia,  hoc  Comitatu  donavit 
fratrem  Jacob  urn  postea  proregem.  ejus  illustrissimus  ac  nobi- 
lissimus  pronepos  nunc  hujus  Comitatus  titulis  et  proventibus 
faeliciter  potitur. 

Lectorem  meum  hie  admonitum  cupio,  cum  toties  Baronum 
Parlamentariorum  mentio  occurrat,  quid  hoc  nomine  novitio 
intelligi  velim.  Supremus  regni  nostri  senatus  cui  jus  figendi  ac 
refigendi,  annuente  tamen  Principe,  his  Ordinibus  constabat. 
Primus  Ordo  Ducibus.  si  qui  essent,  Marchionibus,  Comitibus, 
Vicecomitibus,  Baronibus  quos  Parlamentarios  voco,  constabat. 
ex  his  Marchiones,  Vicecomites  nuperi  admodum  apud  nos,  403. 
Comitum  quos  patria  voce  Earls,  et  Baronum  Parlamentari- 
orum, patria  itidem  voce  Lords,  omnium  antiquissima  dignitas, 
quibus  solis  majores  nostri  se  continuerunt.  hi  omnes  uno  in 
comitiis  Ordine  habebantur.  Barones  vero  simpliciter  sic  dicti 
et  caetera  nobilitas,  quorum  ingens  numerus  et  robur,  in  qui- 
busque  regni  vires  stant,  ad  vitandam  turbam,  per  delectos 
suos  alterum  Ordinem  explebant.  tertium  itidem  Gives  ab 
oppidis  et  urbibus  suis  delegati.  Episcopi  item,  dum  essent, 
Ordine  suo  justum  senatum  explebant,  dignitate  propter  res 
sacras  primi.  Equcstris  autem  honor  apud  majores  nostros 


436  SUTHERLANDIA 

habitus,  nee  sine  justa  causa,  etiam  lionoratissimus,  virtutis 
militaris  praemium  habebatur.  nunc  alia  rerum  facie,  ad  fora, 
ad  urbes,  ad  plebem  descensu  ejus  honoris  facto,  eviluit.  maxime 
autem  postquam  [sic]  non  ita  pridem  emendicato  a  principe 
monopolio,  venalis  et  haereditarius  omnibus  patuit.  Armiger- 
orum  qui  in  vicina  nobis  Anglia  frequentes,  nullus  usus.  Ad- 
monitum  etiam  eundem  lectorem  velim  cum  panels  pagis  regio 
nostra  habitetur,  non  ideo  infrequentiam  incolarum  aesti- 
mandam ;  cui  rei  causa  haec  est.  Colon!  agricultural  studiosi, 
videbantur  sibi,  jam  ab  initiis  rerum,  pagis  arctari,  neq^  in 
tanta  vicinia  satis  prospectum  rei  rusticae.  Domini  igitur 
divisis  agris,  singulis  ad  facultatum  rationem  suos  terminos 
posuerunt,  sic  ut  continues  non  contiguae  sedes  essent,  exinde  a 
pagis  in  agros  demigratum,  ubi  vena  aliqua  uberis  soli  invi- 
tabat,  hie  lares  fixi,  et  laxioribus  aedibus,  sine  rixa  nemo 
amplius  vicinis  molestus,  ut  in  pagis,  rei  rusticae  liberius 
vacat. 


404.         VERA    SOUTHERLANDI^E    CHOROGRAPHICA 
DESCRIPTIO. 

Provincia  base  omnis  pecore,  armentis,  frugibus  et  fructibus 
aliisc^  ad  usum  humanum  necessariis  abunde  ferax  est.  Pisca- 
tura  hie  quaestuossima.  Quod  ad  situm,  omnes  quotquot  hac- 
tenus  earn  susceperunt  describendam  penitus  errarunt.  Nam 
Southerlandiam  ad  ortum  et  ortum  aestivum  terminat  Cattey- 
nesia  et  mare  Germanicum  :  ad  occasum  Assint :  a  septentrione, 
cum  Strathnavernia  sit  jam  Southerlandiag  pars,  pulsatur 
Oceano  :  a  meridie  autem  partim  habet  Rossiam,  parti m  man's 
Germanic!  sinum. 

Distinguitur  a  Catteynesia  Alti-tuder  torrente,  et  monte 
Ordmons.  hie  a  mari  austral!  usc^  ad  Oceanum  Deucaledonium 
extenditur.  Separatur  etiam  Southeiiandia  a  Strathnavernia 
montibus  quibusdam  ab  ortu  in  occasum  se  porrigentibus. 
at  quum  jam  Strathnavernia  diplomate  regio  Southerlandiam 
annexa  sit,  vere  possum  us  dicere  Southerlandiae  terminum  a 
septentrione  esse  Oceanum  :  Discreta  est  quoq^  haec  provincia 
ab  Assint  tribus  lacubus,  Gormlogh,  Finlogh,  et  Logh  Narkel 
ac  montibus  Glas-vin  et  Bin-moir.  a  Rossia  autem  discernitur 


SUTHERLANDIA  437 

fluviis  Portnecultro,  et  Oikello.  Omnes  ergo  agri  Calsaeo 
fluvio  irrigui,  usq^  ad  Aide  negalgum,  et  Leadmorum  in  Assint, 
et  quicquid  decimas  parochise  Crichensi  exhibet,  ad  Comitatum 
Southerlandiae  pertinent. 

Provincia  haec  ab  origine  Cattey  vocitata  est  et  incolse 
Catiegh  a  Cattseis  Moraviensibus,  qui  ex  Germania  hue  appu- 
lerunt.  Sic  enim  hodie  idiomate  Scoto-hibernico,  quo  adhuc 
incolae  utuntur,  nuncupantur.  Postea  autem  Southerlandia 
nominata  est.  Olim  continebat  haec  regio  omnem  ilium  trac- 
tum  inter  Port  ne  cuterum  et  Dungisbaeum  interjacentem  et 
monte  Ordo  divisum  qui  ab  uno  mari  ad  alterum  longo  tractu 
procurrit.  Comitatus  aut^n  iJle  qui  jam  Cattey nesiae  titulo 
gaudet,  nomen  olim  habuit  a  promontorio  provinciae  Cattey 
quod  lingua  patria  Nes  vocant,  adeo  ut  Cateynes  nihil  aliud  t 
sit  quaiu  promontorium  Cattey  seu  Southerlandiae;  quod  pro- 
montorium  a  latere  oriental!  mentis  Ordi  protenditur;  et 
Episcopatus  Catteynensis,  dubio  procul,  primo  hunc  titulum 
habuit  a  Cattey.  Nam  dioecesis  haec  non  tantum  Cattey  - 
nesiam  sed  Southerlandiam  quoq^  Strath  Naverniam  et  Assint 
suo  ambitu  includit ;  quae  omnes  olim  uno  Cattey  nomine  notae 
erant.  Episcopatus  ergo  potius  gaudebat  titulo  totius  Cattey 
scilicet  quam  illius  partis  et  promontorii  Cattey-Nessiae.  Quin 
Ecclesia  Cathedralis  cum  Canonicorum  aedibus  et  Episcopali 
sede  non  in  Catteynesia,  sed  in  Dornogh  Southerlandiae  oppido 
adhuc  extat.  Ita  progressu  temporis  provincia  haec,  Cattey 
antique  nomine  posthabito,  Southerlandiae  titulo  vocari  ccepit : 
nihilominus  Episcopatus  nomen  ad  hunc  usc^  diem  remansit : 
Cumc^  prius  vocaretur  dioecesis  Cattey,  posteaq^  hoc  nomen  tan- 
quam  obsoletum  et  inusitatum  rejectum  sit,  titulo  Episcopatus 
Catteynes  insignitur,  cum  hoc  nomen  proprius  accedat  ad 
antiquam  etymologiam  vocis  Cattey  quam  Southerlandia. 
Boethius  in  sua  historia  deducit  Catteynes  a  voce  Catus  proprio 
nomine  viri,  et  Nes,  id  est  promontorium.  Ambiguitas  certe 
harum  vocum  Cattey  et  Catteynes  una  cum  ignorantia  linguae 
Scoto-hibernicae  non  paucos  errores  in  denominandis  his  pro- 
vinciis  peperit. 

Hodie  Southerlandia  in  decem  parochias,  ubi  totidem 
sunt  parochialia  templa  praeter  innumera  sacella,  dividitur  : 
Dornogh  sive  Durnogh,  Crigh,  Lairg,  Rogard,  Culmaly, 


438  SUTHERLANDIA 

Clyn,  Loth,  Kildonnan,  Durines  et  Far:  haec  ultima  in 
Strathnavernia  est.  Tria  sunt  in  hoc  Comitatu  neniora 
melioris  notae,  nempe  Diri-Moir,  Diri-Chat  et  Diri  Meanigh. 
praeterea  varii  saltus  et  vivaria  arboribus  opaca.  conservandis 
enutriendisc^  animantibus  feris  commodissima  et  venationi 
dicata  :  cervis,  damis,  lupis,  vuJpibus,  felibus  agrestibus,  lutris, 
martibus,  omnic^  silvestrium  avium  genere  refertissima.  In 
hac  provincia  est  avis  genus,  psittaco  haud  absimile,  incola? 
Knag  vocant,  quod  rostro  quotannis  nidum  sibi  in  trunco 
406.  quercus  effodit.  Hie  omnia  sunt  accipitrum  genera.  Nullus 
est  in  his  nemoribus  vel  rivulus,  qui  non  innumera  piscium 
varii  generis  examina  usibus  hum#nis  suppeditet.  Dimidium 
nemoris  Diri-Moir  quod  septentrionem  respicit  hodie  ad 
Donaldum  Macky  Rae  Dominum  pertinet.  In  eodem  nemore 
mons  est  vulgo  Arkil,  ubi  omnes  cervi  qui  hie  nutriuntur, 
caudas  furcatas  habent  trium  pollicum  vel  unciarum  longitu- 
dine  conspicuas,  quibus  a  reliquis  hujus  regionis  cervis  facile 
dignoscuntur.  In  Durinesi  qua  spectat  occasum  aestivum  a 
Diri-Moir,  locus  est  venatu  Celebris  vulgo Parwe.  Estc^  in  Shleta- 
dello  in  parochia  Lothensi  magna  ferarum  copia:  haecq^  duo  loca 
ob  jucundas  venationes  per  totum  regnum  celeberrima  sunt. 

Fluvii  prsecipui  sunt,  Uries  sen  Toidac,  Evelick,  Brora,  Loth 
Helmisdel  seu  Ully,  Shin,  et  Casley  :  duo  quoq^  limitanei,  Port- 
necuter  et  Oikel,  qui  Rossiam  et  Southerlandiam  discernunt. 
Omnes  hi  Southerlandise  fluvii,  salmonum  aliorumq^  piscium 
captura  nobiles  sunt.  portus  quoe^  habent  commodissimos  ex- 
cipiendis  navigiis,  qua?  hinc  in  varias  regni  partes  frumentum 
salem,  carbones,  salmones,  carnem  bubulam,  lanam.  pelles, 
coria,  butyrum,  caseum,  sebum,  aliaq^  mercimonia  deferunt. 
In  fluviis  his  et  in  tota  ora  maritima,  vitulorum  marinorum, 
balenarum  nonnunquam,  concharum  varii  generis,  aviumc^ 
maritimarum  magna  est  copia.  Valles  circa  hos  amnes,  quae  hie 
longo  tractu  a  mari  ad  montes  excurrunt,  et  quae  montibus 
vicinae  sunt,  lingua  vernacula  Straths  vocantur;  omnes  cult.i' 
et  incolis  repletae  :  praeterea  silvis  et  nemoribus,  gramine  et 
frumento,  pecoribus  et  armentis,  ferisq^  animantibus  non 
frecundse  solum,  sed  jucundae.  Strath  seu  vallis  Ully  a  meridie 
in  septentrionem  extenditur,  cujus  longitudo  est  millia  passuuni 
viginti.  Strath  Brora  contermina  Diri-cliat  octodecini  millibus 


SUTHERLANDIA  439 

passuum  in  longitudinem  patet.     Strath  Tleit  seu  Strath  "Floid 
a  mari  ad   montes   protensa  quatuordecim  millibus  passuum. 
Multae  alias  sunt  hie  valles.  ut   Strathterry,  Strath  ne  Seilg 
Strathskinriedel,  Strathtelleny,  Strath-dail-narwe,  Strathtolly,  407. 
Strath-dail-nemeyn,  Strath-ne-fin-ay,  &c. 

In  parochia  Crigh  ager  est  vulgo  Slish-chiles,  alias  Ferrin 
Coskary  octodecim  millibus  passuum  longitudine  patens, 
habensq^  fluvios  Port-ne-cuter  seu  Tain,  et  Oikel  a  meridie 
objectos;  ubi  montes  sunt  marmorei,  ab  historicis  nostris 
saepe  memorati.  Estc^  quoq^  alia  pars  Southerlandiae  vulgo 
Brachat,  id  est  summitas  Cattey  seu  Southerlandiae,  tota 
frugibus  et  piscibus,  pascuis  et  arboribus  fcecunda,  estc^  in 
parochia  Lairg.  Longitude  Brachat  est  viginti  duo  millia 
passuum  quam  fluvius  Shin,  qui  a  lacu  ejusdem  cognominis 
effluit,  in  duas  dividit  partes.  occidentalis  hujus  agri  pars 
vulgo  nominatur  baronia  Gruids,  in  qua  continetur  Diri- 
meanigh.  In  fluvio  Shin  ingens  est  rupes  et  praerupta,  ex  qua 
aquas  magno  cum  impetu  et  fragore  corruentes  profundissimum 
gurgitem  efficiunt  ubi  quaestuosa  est  prasgrandium  salmonum 
piscatura.  Hie  fluvius  nunquam  gelascit. 

In  Southerlandia  sunt  lacus  pisculenti  plus  minus  sexaginta, 
quorum  omnium  Logh-Shin  maximus  est,  quatuordecim  milli- 
bus passuum  longitudine  protensus.  In  pleris^  lacubus  insulae 
sunt,  tempore  asstivo  habitationi  aptissimae.  In  lacu  Shin, 
quasdam  sunt  insulae,  ferorum  cygnorum  et  anserum  agrestium 
feraces.  Insula  est  in  lacu  Brora  habitationi  Southerlandiae 
Comitum  dicata,  et  cervorum  venatione  jucunda;  quorum  hie 
in  silvis  lacum  utrinq^  cingentibus  ingens  est  copia :  ab 
oppidulo  Brora  tribus  millibus  passuum  distat  haec  insula  : 
In  lacubus  et  fluviis  jam  dictis  reperiuntur  nonnunquam  in 
conchis  magni  pretii  margaritae.  In  Southerlandia  quaedam 
sunt  argenti  fodinae,  aliaeq^  opes  subterraneae,  quae  adhuc  ob 
incolarum  negligentiam  aut  potius  imperitiam,  nondum  e 
terra?  visceribus  erutae  sunt.  Praecipium  hujus  provinciae  408. 
oppidum  est  Dornogh  arce  Southerlandiae  Comitum  et  templo 
cathedrali  Divae  Virgini  sacro  conspicuum :  hujus  templi 
fundator  fuit  Gilbertus  Catteynensis  Episcopus ;  propterea 
ejus  nomine  insignitur.  In  dextera  sive  australi  hujus  templi 
parte  commune  est  Comitum  Southerlandiae  sepulchretum  : 


440  SUTHERLANDIA 

Templum  parochiale  hujus  urbis  Divo  Barro  sacrum,  initio 
reformationis  ut  vocant,  demolitum  fuit.  Nundinis  autem 
Sancti  Barri,  Sancti  Gilbert!,  Sancti  Bernard!,  et  Sanctae  Mar- 
garetae,  ad  quas  ex  regionibus  Scotiae  borealibus  ingens 
hominum  multitude  quotannis  confluit,  Celebris  est  hsec  urbs ; 
quam  Dominus  Robertas  Gordonius  Southerlandiae  tutor  in 
regale  et  liberum  burgum  jamdudum  erigi  curavit.  In  aliis 
etiam  hujus  provinciae  oppidis,  frequentes  sunt  nundinae, 
quarum  praecipuae  sunt  Sancti  Andreae  ad  Golspy.  Juxta 
Dornogh  oppidum  nuper  reperta  est  lapicidina,  e  qua  scan- 
dulae,  seu  petrarum  laminae  aedificiis  tegendis  aptae,  eruuntur. 
Hie  etiam  in  longum  extenduntur  campi,  ob  planitiem  et 
maris  viciniam  admodum  amaeni. 

Qua  Dornogh  spectat  orientem  solem,  videre  est  monumen- 
tum  crucis  formam  referens,  vulgo  Crask-Worwair,  hoc  est 
Thani  vel  Comitis  Crux.  Altera  quocj^  est  non  procul  ab 
Enbo,  Ri-Croiss,  hoc  est  Regis  crux ;  sic  appellata  quod  ibi 
Danorum  Rex  vel  Dux  interfectus  et  sepultus  fuerat. 

Ultra  Dornogh  ad  ortum  aestivum  novem  millibus  passuum 
sita  est  Brora,  ad  ostium  fluminis  Brora ;  cui  Johannes,  Souther- 
landiae Comes  proxime  defunctus,  jura  et  previlegia  burgi 
Baroniae,  ut  vocant,  a  Rege  obtinuit.  Plus  minus  quingentis 
passibus  ab  ostio  fluminis  hujus,  qua  solem  occidentem 
respicit,  optimi  eruuntur  carbones,  quibus  utuntur  in  salinis  ad 
coquendum  salem  ;  qui  non  solum  Southerlandiae  et  finitimis 
provinciis  inservit,  sed  etiam  in  Angliam  aliasq^  regiones  trans  - 
vehitur.  Haud  procul  a  carbonaria  ad  occasum  est  latomia 
409.  ex  qua  tophi  in  alias  regni  partes  devehuntur.  Montes  etiam 
candidi  marmoris  varii  in  hac  provincia  reperiuntur.  Non 
procul  a  Golspitoir,  lapides  inveniuntur  ex  quibus  fit  calx  in 
usum  aedificiorum.  Hie  etiam  in  variis  locis  ferri  fodinae  sunt, 
ubi  praestantissimum  conficitur  ferrum. 

In  tota  regione  nulli  conspiciuntur  glires,  et  si  forte  hue  in 
navibus  advehantur3  cum  primum  hauserint  hujus  regionis 
aerem,  intereunt.  Sed,  quod  incredibilius  est,  in  Catteynesia 
huic  provinciae  contermina,  nee  ab  ea  vel  fluvio  vel  mari 
separata,  infinita  sunt  glirium  examina.  Southerlandia  Oceani 
aestuariis  et  fluminibus  ita  intersecta  est,  ut  nulla  urbs,  villa, 
aut  praedium  in  ea  sit,  quae  aqua  marina  vel  fluviatili  non 


SUTHERLANDIA  441 

alluatur,  unde  sit  ut  incolis  ingens  suppeditetur  copia  piscium. 
Ord  altissimus  fere  hujus  provincise  mons,  et  paene  impervius, 
Southerlandiam  a  Catteynesia  separat.  Frumentum  hie 
imprimis  hordeum  est  praestantissimum,  adeo  ut  pluris 
veneat  quam  hordeum  Orcadiae,  Catteynesiae  aut  fmitimarum 
provinciarum. 

Varia  sunt  hie  castella ;  praecipua  vero  Dornogh  et  Dunrobin 
primaria  Comitum  Southerlandiae  sedes,  situ,  hortis  et  pomariis, 
variis  floribus  et  arboribus  refertissimis,  croco  optimo,  fonte 
dulcis  aquae  profundissimo  ex  quadrate  lapide  extructo,  vivario 
tribus  millibus  passuum  in  longitudinem  porrecto,  et  cuniculis 
optime  referto,  longe  commodissima.  Sunt  alia  quoc^  hie 
castella  plus  minus  viginti  ut  Skelbo,  Skibo,  Pronsie,  Polrossy, 
Invershin,  Cuttill.  Enbo,  Golspitour,  Golspikirktoun,  Abir- 
scors,  Ospidell,  Clyn,  Cracok,  Helmisdel,  Torrish,  Doun- 
Crigh,  Castel-ne-goirr,  Durines,  Borwe  et  Toung;  quorum 
duo  ultima  in  StrathNavernia  sunt.  Doun-Crigh  a  quodam 
Paulo  Mactiro  extructum  fuit. 

Longitude  Southerlandiae  ab  occasu  ad  ortum  aestivtim  est 
circiter  quinquaginta  quinc^  millia  passuum :  latitude  vero 
viginti  duo  a  meridie  ad  septentrionem ;  sed  si  includamus 
etiam  Strathnaverniam  latitude  est  triginta  tria  millia  passuum 
a  mari  australi  ad  Oceanum  septentrionalem.  Southerlandiae  410. 
pars  Assint  olim  fuit,  quam  Domini  de  Kinnard  cum  baronia 
de  Skelbo  possederunt. 

Jam  de  Strath  Navernia  quaedam,  cum  sit  Southerlandiae 
quoc^  pars :  regio  est  gramine  quam  grano  fcecundior ;  prop- 
terea  pecori  alendo  satis  commoda.  Hie  bourn  armenta,  et 
salmonum  examina  paene  infinita  sunt :  et  nisi  incolae  socordiae 
et  otio  plus  nimio  essent  dediti,  multo  fcelicior  et  fertilior  reddi 
possit  haec  regio.  In  Strathnavernia  varia  sunt  promontoria 
in  Oceanum  septentrionalem  procurrentia,  Erebol  nempe 
Hoip,  Strathy.  &c.  Variis  quoq^  fluviis  salmonum  captura 
inclytis  rigatur.  praecipui  sunt  Halledel,  Naver  sive  Far, 
Strathy  Torisdel  et  Hoip,  Durines  autem  et  Edderachilis, 
quamvis  ad  Mackaeum  Raae  Dominum  pertineant,  proprie 
tamen  in  Strathnavernia  non  sunt.  Duobus  munitur  Strath- 
navernia arcibus  Borwe  et  Toung,  quarum  haec  Mackaeorum 
sedes  primaria  est.  In  sacello  autem  Kirkebolensi  non  ita 


442  SUTHERLANDIA 

pridem  restaurato,  sepeliuntur  hujus  familia?  Domini.  Hie 
ingens  est  cervorum  et  damarum  copia :  et  quamvis  tola  paene 
regio  in  monies  excelsos  assurgat,  quorum  omnium  Taine- 
baind  altissimus,  tamen  pecori  pascendo  apta  est.  Strath 
Navernia  ab  ortu  in  occasum  longa  triginta  quatuor  millia 
passuum.  duodecim  lata  alicubi,  alicubi  vero  sex  tantum,  ab 
austro  in  septentrionem,  Durenesi  et  Edderachilio  exclusis. 
Multi  hie  lacus,  praecipuus  Logh-Naver.  In  Loghlyol  insula 
est  temporibus  aestivis  habitationi  dicata.  Circa  littus  in 
Oceano  arctico  variae  dispersae  sunt  insulse,  nempe  Ellan-Com, 
Ellan-Zeyl,  Ellan-lioin,  et  Ellan-Niwe. 

Edderachilis  portio  terrae  est  in  ora  maritima  occasum 
spectans  desertis  rupibus  impervia,  et  ad  Knockanchalligh 
Comitum  Southerlandiae  limitibus  contermina :  et  quamvis 
jam  ad  Mackaeum  pertinet  nunquam  tamen  Strathnaverniae 
pars  fuit,  sed  pars  baroniae  Skelbo  in  Southerlandia :  et 
Edderachilim  jure  Comitum  Southerlandiae  adhuc  possidet 
Dominus  Macky :  In  ea  fluvius  est,  vulgo  Laxford,  ex  quo 
Mackaeus  sive  Maeky  magnum  habet  salmonum  proventum  ; 
Insula  Handy  sive  Ellan-Handey  in  mari  oceano,  ad  Eddera- 
chilim, vel  potius  ad  Durinessim  pertinet. 

Durines  baronia  solo  fruitur  campestri  et  jucundo,  qua 
occasum  aestivum  spectat,  et  licet  earn  hodie  Mackaeus  Rare 
Dominus,  jure  Southerlandiae  Comitum  in  possessione  habeat  et 
ipsorum  beneficiarius,  ad  Strathnaverniam  tamen  non  pertinet, 
sed  earn  Comites  Southerlandiae  ab  Episcopo  Catteynensi  jure 
feodatario  possident.  Hie  dies  aestivi  sunt  longissimi,  neque 
nox  fere  ulla.  Hinc  recta  navigantibus  ad  polum  arcticum, 
nulla  reperiri  potest  terra.  Hie  quoq^  est  fluvius,  vulgo 
Durines  dictus.  de  Parwe  vero  superius  verba  fecimus.  Hac- 
tenus  de  StrathNavernia  satis. 

Praecipua  cognomina  et  familiae  quae  jam  in  Southerlandia 
extant  seclusis  Strathnavernia,  Durinesi  et  Edderachili, 
sunt  Gordonii,  Southerlandi,  Monrovii,  Graii,  Clangunnenses 
seu  Clangunni,  Sell  -  thomasii  Seil -johannenses,  et  Seil- 
phalaei.  Antiquissima  est  Southerlandiae  Comitum  familia,  et 
a  prima  origine  ad  hodiernum  usc^  diem  Celebris ;  regibus  suis 
officiosissima,  neq^  unquam  perduellionis  juste  damnata,  per- 
manet.  Inter  primaries  Scotiae  proceres  in  Com i His  locum 


SUTHERLANDIA  443 

habent  Southerlandiee  Comites.  Viri  strenui  et  bello  intrepid! 
semper  habiti  sunt.  Jam  Comes  est  magnae  potentiae  et 
authoritatis ;  totius  Southerlandiae,  Assint,  et  Strathnaverniae 
Vicecomes.  Thalassiarcha  non  sol um  harum,  sed  etiam  cir- 
cumjacentium  quarundum  regionum  hasreditarius,  idq^  Leviniae 
Ducis  dono.  Quotquot  in  ejus  provincia  degunt  generosi, 
ipsius  sunt  clientes  et  beneficiarii.  In  ditionibus  suis  regia 
jura  exercet.  Quin  Dnus  Macky  Raae  Baro  et  Dnus  a  DufFus 
sub  ejus  clientela  sunt:  et  Strathnaverniam,  Edderachilim  et 
Durinesim,  ejus  jure  Mackseus  possidet;  quo  fit  ut  authori- 
tate  et  potentia  majores  suos  adaequet. 


The  following  is  a  translation  of  the  Descrip- 
tions of  Caithness,  Strathnaver,  lloss,  Assynt, 
Sutherland,  Edur-da-Cheulis,  Moray,  and  of  the 
True  Description  of  Sutherland. 

Some  remarks  on  those  descriptions  are  given 
in  the  Preface. 


CAITHNESS,      STRATHNAVER,      ROSS, 
SUTHERLAND,  ETC. 

All  the  lands  in  the  long  tract  from  the  arm  of  the  sea  called  Leven, 
separating  Lochaher  from  Lome,  as  far  as  the  Orkney  Islands  and  the 
extremities  of  the  mainland,  including  also  Badenoch,  were  not  very 
long  ago  reckoned  under  the  name  of  the  Sheriffdom  of  Inverness,  and 
from  this  town  the  whole  of  the  inhabitants  sought  justice.  Further, 
such  of  the  Hebridean  Islands  as  are  opposite  this  coast,  along  a  great 
extent  of  land,  are  subject  to  the  same  administration.  The  heritable 
jurisdiction  used  to  belong  to  the  Marquis  of  Huntly.  But  lately  the 
marquis  gave  up  the  shire  of  Caithness  in  favour  of  the  Earl  of  Caith- 
ness, sprung  from  the  Sinclair  family,  who  married  Jean  Gordon,  sister 
to  the  same  marquis ;  hence  the  modern  family,  and  that  shire  is 
reckoned  a  county  by  itself.  Afterwards  the  same  marquis  also  con- 


444  TRANSLATION  :  ROSS 

ceded  the  jurisdiction  of  Sutherlandshire  in  favour  of  his  relative, 
George  Gordon,  who,  marrying  the  heiress  of  the  Earls  of  Sutherland, 
and  enriched  with  this  inheritance,  had  transferred  the  earldom  into 
his  own  family,  so  that  at  the  present  day  that  shire  also  is  reckoned  a 
sheriffdom  by  itself. 

The  small  town  of  Cromarty,  with  a  little  of  the  neighbouring  land, 
has  from  ancient  times  been  held  as  a  sheriffdom.  Its  jurisdiction, 
even  at  the  present  time,  belongs  to  the  family  of  the  Urquharts,  whose 
Chief  has  a  mansion  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town. 

These  districts  being  taken  away,  there  still  remains  the  largest  county 
in  the  whole  kingdom,  for  besides  Badenoch,  Lochaber,  and  that  neck  of 
land  which  lies  between  Lochaber  and  the  Hebridean  Islands,  inhabited 
by  many  minor  chiefs,,  and  all  those  islands  which  lie  scattered  opposite 
the  coast,  and  of  which  none  at  all  is  included  in  this  map,  there  are 
left  over  to  be  described  here  Ross,  with  the  small  districts  near  it  or 
comprised  under  it,  Assynt,  Strathnaver,  and  all  the  localities  that 
surround  Loch  Ness. 

Ancient  geography  asserts  that  these  districts  were  occupied  by  the 
Creones,  the  Cantae,  the  Carnanacae,  the  Mertae,  the  Logi,  and  at  the 
farthest  north,  the  Coruavii,  of  all  of  whom  there  is  no  mention  now 
extant,  either  in  our  writers  or  anywhere,  unless  perhaps  obscure  traces 
survive  of  the  Cornavii  in  the  castle  of  the  Earls  of  Caithness,  at  no 
very  remote  time  called  Gernigo,  and  now  beginning  to  be  known  as 
Castle  Sinclair.  But  the  sea  breaking  into  a  large  extent  of  land 
commencing  on  the  left  at  the  Taezalum  promontorium,  now  called 
Buquhannes,  and  on  the  right  at  the  Veruvium  promontorium,  now 
Dunsbeehead,  penetrates  to  Inverness,  and  even  farther  to  the  Monastery 
of  Beaulieu  [Beauly],  under  the  old  name  of  the  Varar  estuary,  the 
modern  Moray  Firth,  and  seems  to  have  not  quite  laid  the  old  name 
aside,  for  at  its  inmost  bend  three  different  rivers  with  distinct  names 
unite,  and  under  the  name  of  the  River  Farrar  flow  into  the  head  of  the 
great  Varar  estuary. 

ROSS. 

The  name  of  Ross  means  a  peninsula  in  the  ancient  language,  and  indeed 
this  shire,  though  it  stretches  to  either  sea,  still  being  pierced  on  both 
sides  by  many  arms  of  the  intruding  sea,  if  you  look  at  it  as  a  whole, 
presents  numerous  peninsulas. 

It  may  suffice  once  to  say  that  all  these  bays  are  called  throughout 
the  whole  country  by  those  who  speak  the  ancient  language  locks,  and 
on  account  of  the  ambiguity  of  the  term,  the  arms  of  the  sea  are  called 
saltwater  lochs,  and  the  inland  lakes  are  called  freshwater  lochs. 

Ross  where  it  looks  to  the  west  is  opposite  the  Vergivian  Ocean,  and 
is  intersected  by  many  bays,  all  of  which  luxuriate  in  a  productive  yield 
of  fishes,  and  especially  in  immense  shoals  of  herrings.  The  entire 
land  rises  into  rugged  mountains,  and  is  unfertile  in  crops,  but  there 


TRANSLATION:   ASSYNT  445 

are  numerous  woods,  and  it  is  very  well  suited  for  pasturage.  The 
scarcity  of  crops  is  relieved  by  the  abundance  of  oxen  and  venison,,  for 
every  year  many  herds  of  oxen  raised  here  are  driven  far  and  wide 
for  sale. 

The  first  district  to  the  south-west  is  Kintail,  separated  from  the  Isle 
of  Skye  by  a  narrow  strait,  and  under  it  is  the  small  tract  of  Glenelcheg, 
This  is  the  ancestral  and  patrimonial  soil  of  the  most  illustrious  Earl 
of  Seaforth,  Chief  of  the  Clan  MacKenneth  [Mackenzie],  who  rules  far 
and  wide  in  this  shire.  Here  is  Castel  Ylen  Donan  on  an  island  in  the 
above-mentioned  strait,  where  the  ancestors  of  this  earl  had  their  first 
seat.  Into  this  bay  flow  the  rivers  Shell,  Lyick,  Connag,  Elcheg,  and 
Luong.  Glenelcheg  reaches  the  bay  called  Loch  Carroun,  into  which  the 
river  of  the  same  name  discharges  its  waters. 

After  this,  in  skirting  the  coast  and  passing  several  bays  of  less  note, 
[the  inlet  called]  Ewe  is  seen,  and  a  mile  inland  from  it  Loch  Ewe 
[Maree],  on  all  sides  surrounded  by  thick  woods,  where  in  former  years 
iron  mines  were  worked.  A  little  to  the  north  of  this  is  the  bay  of 
Brienn  [Loch  Broom,  in  Gaelic  Loch  Braoin],  notable  for  its  annual 
and  abundant  herring  fishery.  That  bay  appeal's  to  be  called  Volsas  by 
Ptolemy.  The  inland  part  above  this  district  is  named  Ard-Ross,  that 
is  the  Height  of  Ross,  stretching  out  among  mountains,  and  all  rough 
and  uncultivated.  Above  this  follows  the  small  district  of  Coygach,  a 
name  that  means  the  fifth.  It  was  of  old  reckoned  the  fifth  part  of  the 
district  of  Assynt  in  that  neighbourhood.  But  now  being  disjoined,  it 
forms  part  of  another  domain. 

ASSYNT. 

Next  is  Assynt,  extending  along  the  coast  between  the  River  Chireaig 
and  the  Bay  of  Chewliscung.  The  Cape  of  Row-Stoir  in  Assynt  here 
runs  out  into  the  sea  beyond  the  rest  of  the  coast.  The  River  Tralligyr 
[Traligill],  flowing  from  the  mountain  Ben  Moir  Assyn,  and  passing 
through  Loch  Assyn,  as  it  is  called,  discharges  into  the  sea.  That 
mountain,  Binmoir,  is  noted  for  veins  of  marble,  or  stone  which  in  its 
nature  resembles  marble,  but  here  all  is  rugged  and  uncultivated,  nor, 
with  the  exception  of  herds  of  deer,  cattle,  and  horses,  is  there  anything 
worth  mention,  since  the  poor  district  hardly  suffices  for  its  few  farmers. 
This  small  tract  was  in  former  times  reckoned  in  Sutherland,  and  con- 
sidered part  of  the  same.  Afterwards,  being  somehow  disjoined  there- 
from, it  passed  to  the  domain  of  others,  for  it  scarcely  belongs  to  Ross. 
since  it  is  part  of  the  diocese  of  Caithness. 

Now,  where  Ross  looks  east  on  the  Moray  Frith,  although  it  frequently 
swells  into  mountains,  yet  on  the  coast  and  in  the  lower  basins  of  the 
rivers,  which  are  pretty  numerous,  it  is  surprising  how  the  land  abounds 
in  crops,  and  these  excellent.  Here  wheat,  rye,  oats,  pease,  beans,  and 
garden  plants  or  fruits,  contrary  to  what  might  be  expected  from  the 


44f)  TRANSLATION:  ASSYXT 

climate,  do  not  fail.  Where  the  River  Farrar  falls,  as  I  have  said,  into 
the  bay  of  its  own  name  this  district  begins.  Here  is  the  ancient  Castle 
of  Lovat,  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Frasers,  who  have  now  removed  to 
Beauly  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  once  a  beautiful  and  wealthy 
monastery,  and  who  hold  many  estates  in  the  neighbourhood  by  them- 
selves or  their  vassals. 

The  peninsula  between  the  two  friths,  that  of  Cromarty  on  the  north 
and  of  Inverness  on  the  south,  is  called  Ard  Meanach,  a  name  that 
signifies  the  Middle  Height.  I  exclude  from  this  the  territory  and  vicinity 
of  the  small  town  of  Cromarty,  where,  as  I  have  said,  there  is  its  own 
sheriffdom.  Here  on  the  shore  is  the  town  called  Chanrie  [Chanonry] 
extending  amid  the  fields  to  the  pleasant  and  fruitful  hills  which  sur- 
round it.  It  has  a  castle  and  a  cathedral  church,  which,  however,  is  not 
entire,  of  some  celebrity,  where  once  was  the  seat  of  the  bishop,  and 
thence  came  its  name  from  the  canons,  for  their  residence  is  called  among 
us  a  chanoriry,  as  in  Elgin,  a  neighbouring  city  of  Moray,  that  part  of 
the  town  where  they  were  settled  with  their  bishop  was  distinct  from  the 
royal  burgh,  and  is  at  the  present  day  called  the  Chanrie.  From  the 
town  of  Chanrie  there  is  a  daily  passage  into  Moray,  but  there  is  no 
harbour.  Ships  are  berthed  at  Minlochy,  three  miles  up.  A  mile  below 
Chanrie  on  the  same  coast  is  Ross  Markie,  as  it  was  anciently  called,  the 
site  of  a  city,  whose  light  was  so  constantly  dimmed  by  the  neighbouring 
Chanrie  that  it  never  rose.  Also  a  little  above  Chanrie,  on  the  west,  are 
the  ruins  of  the  Castle  of  Ormond,  whence,  among  other  sources,  our 
sovereigns  derived  part  of  their  titles,  not  wrongly,  as  in  these  localities 
of  Ross  and  various  others,  estates  of  no  small  size  belong  to  the 
Treasury,  and  their  rents  are  annually  paid  into  the  Royal  Exchequer, 
as  it  is  called. 

The  small  town  of  Cromarty  follows,  at  the  commencement  of  the  bay 
of  the  same  name,  about  which  one  may  truly  say  that  none  such  is 
found  from  the  Orkney  Islands  to  Kent  in  England,  for  it  is  easy  of 
access  for  ships,  and  inside  is  very  safe  and  capacious,  free  from  quick- 
sands, shoals,  and  shallows,  with  a  bottom  such  as  sailors  would  desire 
for  holding  anchors,  and,  in  short,  it  has  all  the  praise  of  a  fine  harbour. 
On  both  shores  at  the  low  edges  there  are  numerous  wooden  enclosures 
of  great  use,  for  when  the  tide  ebbs  and  the  sands  are  dry,  fish  are 
caught  with  the  hand.  In  the  farthest  corner  of  the  inlet  the  river  called 
Connel  or  Connen  discharges,  which,  consisting  of  various  rivers,  ends 
under  this  name.  This  stream  is  pearl-bearing,  and  from  it  are  not 
seldom  obtained  fine  large  pearls  in  their  peculiar  shells.  But  this 
distinction  does  not  belong  to  that  river  alone,  for  very  many  others, 
both  in  this  tract  and  elsewhere,  are  rich  in  pearls,  nor  are  those  of  the 
Dee,  the  Don,  the  Ythan,  and  many  more  streams  in  the  sheriffdom  of 
Aberdeen  wanting,  at  a  distance  from  the  sea.  Dingwall  follows  at 
hardly  a  mile  from  its  mouth,  a  town  of  no  great  name,  situated  in  a 
rich  and  fertile  soil.  Not  far  hence,  to  the  north,  the  massive  and 


TRANSLATION:  ASSYNT  447 

rugged'  mountain  Weves  rises  in  many  ridges,  but  from  its  grassy  glens 
it  sends  forth  many  rivers.  Withdrawn  a  little  fi'om  the  shore,  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  frith,  is  seen  Fowlis  Castle,  the  ancestral  possession 
of  the  chief  of  the  surname  Munro  ;  and  offshoots  from  his  family  hold 
many  estates  in  the  neighbourhood  from  of  old.  Below,  on  the  same- 
shore,  is  Balnagown  Castle  ;  the  chief  of  the  whole  family  of  the  Rosses 
holds  it.  Now  the  earldom  of  Ross  used  to  belong  to  the  family  of  the 
same  name  as  the  county,  and,  on  its  failure,  without  a  doubt  all  the 
rights  belonged  to  Donald,  the  most  powerful  chief  in  the  Hebridean 
Isles.  When  it  was  refused  to  him,  or  put  past  him,  he  asserted  his 
claim  with  arms  and  easily  held  it,  whence  his  ambitious  spirit,  turning 
to  illegal  acts,  aimed  at  more,  also  with  arms,  and  as  none  resisted  him, 
he  marched  towards  Aberdeen  with  armed  troops.  This  happened  in 
the  year  1411,  when  James  i.,  after  his  father's  death,  was  kept  a 
prisoner  in  England,  contrary  to  all  international  law,  [and]  the  realm 
was  governed  by  a  regent.  Donald  was  opposed  by  Alexander,  Earl  of 
Mar,  who  cut  down  his  forces.  Therefore,  charged  with  treason,  he  lost 
this  earldom  and  many  other  estates. 

There  follow  another  bay  and  another  peninsula.  This  inlet  they 
call,  after  the  town  situated  on  it,  the  Frith  of  Tayn.  It  is  harbourless, 
and  an  object  of  dread  to  ships,  on  account  of  shallows.  This  bay, 
breaking  into  the  laiid  for  many  miles,  separates  Sutherland  from  Ross, 
and  ends  at  the  cape  called  Tarbert.  This  peninsula  has  fine  and  fertile 
land  ;  in  it  is  the  monastery  of  Fearn,  in  a  pleasant  situation.  There  is 
also  on  the  shore  of  the  bay  the  town  of  Tayn,  situated  in  rich  soil,  and 
called  Bale-Duich  in  the  ancient  language,  from  Dochesius  or  Duich 
[Duthus  or  Duthach],  who  was  considered  a  saint,  and  whose  church,  with 
the  privileges  of  a  sanctuary  of  old,  stands  there.  In  former  times  nume- 
rous pilgrimages  were  made  to  it.  Three  miles  above  this  town  a  passage 
to  Sutherland  lies  open :  they  call  the  place  Portincoulter.  Above 
this  passage,  the  frith,  first  looking  to  the  north  and  then  to  west  in  a 
narrow  channel,  receives  the  Carron  more  to  the  south,  and  Okel  at  its 
inmost  corner.  The  Carron,  flowing  from  the  lofty  ridges  of  Mount 
Skormivarr,  and  running  through  hilly  and  wooded  ground,  intersects 
the  tract  which  they  call  Strathcarron.  The  whole  of  this  tract  is  for 
the  most  part  wooded,  and,  being  clothed  with  particularly  tall  firs, 
supplies  neighbouring  and  distant  places  with  timber.  It  is  also  rich 
in  herds  of  cattle  and  many  droves  of  horses.  The  River  Okel,  at  the 
head  of  the  bay,  as  I  have  said,  is  not  equal  to  the  Carron  in  size,  ana 
flows  through  the  tract  named  Strathokel  from  the  river,  where  some 
villages  are  situated,  but  here  there  is  nothing  noteworthy.  A  little 
beyond  this  at  the  Chassil,  an  inconsiderable  stream,  is  the  boundary 
of  the  whole  shire. 

The  mountains  in  this  shire,  numerous  and  lofty,  occupy  the  inland 
parts  chiefly,  but  in  some  instances,  especially  on  the  west  coast,  they 
overhang  the  sea  and  prevent  all  cultivation.  Their  names,  since  they 


448  TRANSLATION  :  SUTHERLAND 

can  hardly  be  pronounced  in  Latin,  I  forbear  mentioning,  and  he  Mho 
examines  them  must  consult  the  map.  Few  islands,  and  these  of  no 
note,  surround  this  coast,  except  Skye,  which  is  worthy  of  a  description 
of  its  own. 

SUTHERLAND. 

The  description  of  this  shire  was  communicated  to  me  by  the  noble 
knight,  Sir  Robert  Gordon  of  Gordonstoun,  uncle  to  the  most  illustrious 
Earl  of  Sutherland.  From  it  I  will  cull  what  comes  under  the  scope 
of  my  design. 

This  shire  was  in  ancient  times  called  Cattey,  and  its  inhabitants 
Catiegh.  The  name  of  Sutherland  is  more  recent,  but  anciently  by  this 
name  of  Cattey  not  only  this  shire,  but  also  the  modern  Caithness, 
Strathnaver,  and  Assynt  were  known.  The  word  Sutherland  means 
southern  land. 

It  is  separated  from  Caithness,  which  it  has  on  its  north  and  north- 
east, by  the  rugged  mountain  on  the  sea-coast  called  the  Ord,  which  here 
juts  out  into  the  sea  with  its  steep  slopes,  and,  in  continuous  ridges, 
under  various  names,  traversing  the  lands  to  the  west  separates  it  also 
from  Strathnaver.  Three  small  lochs  and  the  wilderness  contiguous  to 
them  part  it  from  Assynt.  Ross  bounds  it  on  the  south  and  south-west, 
the  frith  which  has  its  name  from  the  town  of  Tayn  lying  between 
them,  as  we  said  in  the  description  of  Ross  ;  and  at  the  head  of  that  bay 
the  Chassil  rivulet,  and  then  the  hilly  ground  that  rises  between  the 
River  Okel  and  Loch  Shin  form  the  boundary  ;  the  remainder  is  washed 
by  the  open  sea. 

In  the  inland  localities  this  district  swells  into  numerous  mountains, 
which  open  into  many  pastures  and  fruitful  valleys,  whence  the  clearest 
streams  and  rivers  descend.  These  valleys  are  plenished  with  convenient 
and  pleasant  dwellings,  and  maintain  countless  varieties  of  all  sorts  of 
cattle,  while  of  game  also,  and  of  wild  and  domestic  birds  there  is  a  ready 
supply.  But  where  it  touches  either  the  sea  or  the  above-mentioned  frith, 
it  is  wonderful  how  rich  it  is  in  crops,  and  these  the  best  and  soonest  ripe, 
and  there  is  no  scarcity  of  other  commodities  desirable  for  living  comfort- 
ably and  cheerfully.  It  is  a  proof  of  the  excellence  of  the  soil  that  in  the 
Earl's  gardens  at  Dunrobin  Castle,  on  the  sea-coast,  the  crocus  is  sucess- 
fully  grown,  and  ripens,  though  it  is  a  late  plant,  and  dislikes  a  cold  soil. 

There  are  three  localities  among  the  mountains  in  this  county  called 
by  the  name  of  forests,  besides  other  woods  scattered  here  and  there. 
These  forests  are  known  by  the  names  of  Diri-Moir,  Diri-Chat,  and  Diri- 
Maenach,  and  in  them,  as  in  most  other  localities,  there  is  delightful 
and  abundant  hunting,  for  all  parts  here  are  replete  with  stags,  does, 
wolves,  foxes,  wildcats,  martens,  badgers,  and  every  class  of  woodland 
birds  that  can  be  reared  in  this  climate.  There  is  also  a  kind  of  bird  not 
everywhere  met  with,  closely  resembling  a  parrot,  and  called  the  knag, 
which  annually  burrows  a  nest  for  itself  in  the  trunks  of  oaks,  and 


TRANSLATION  :  SUTHERLAND  449 

may  possibly  be  classed  with  the  great  black  woodpecker.  On  the  borders 
that  look  towards  the  south-west  there  is  a  mountainous  and  wooded 
tract,  and  in  it  is  Ben  Arkel.  All  the  stags  found  here  have  forked 
tails,  by  which  they  are  easily  distinguished  from  the  rest.  At  the  head 
of  Loch  Shin  those  mountains  noted  for  their  veins  of  marble  are  seen, 
as  we  have  said  in  describing  the  small  province  of  Assint. 

The  principal  rivers  that  water  this  district  are  the  Ulies,  by  another 
name  the  Floidac,  which  is  crossed  at  the  frith  by  those  going  from  the 
town  of  Dornoch  to  Dunrobin  Castle  ;  the  Evelick,  the  Brora,  the  Loth, 
the  Helmsdale,  also  called  the  Ully,  the  Shin,  and  the  Casley,  which, 
though  all  of  moderate  size,  abound  in  fish.  At  their  lower  courses, 
where  the  mountains  open  up,  plains  rich  in  grass  and  crops  extend. 
These  tracts  are  called,  according  to  the  native  practice,  straths,  with  the 
name  of  the  river  added  to  distinguish  them,  as  Strath  Brora,  Strath 
Ully,  etc.  But  besides  these  notable  valleys  bearing  the  names  of  the 
said  rivers,  there  are  also  many  others,  for  often  quite  inconsiderable 
streams  unfold  pleasant  and  cultivable  plains  amid  the  mountain  slopes. 
Sixty  lochs,  more  or  less,  are  found  here,  small  and  of  no  great  account, 
but  all  abounding  in  fish,  and  rich  in  waterfowl,  for  there  is  not  wanting 
abundance  of  swans,  and  ducks  of  various  kinds,  likewise  many  varieties  of 
geese  and  other  birds.  There  is  one  lake,  Loch  Shin,  exceeding  the  rest 
in  size,  which  sends  into  the  said  frith  a  river  of  the  same  name,  a  little 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Carroii  on  the  opposite  side.  This  river  is  noted 
for  its  falls,  in  struggling  to  ascend  which  the  salmon  slip  into  wicker 
nets  and  become  a  prey.  This  river,  whose  channel  hardly  exceeds  six 
miles  from  the  loch,  is  said  never  to  freeze  when  all  those  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood are  icebound. 

Now  the  wealth  of  the  sea  also  enriches  this  district,  and  all  kinds  of 
fishes  which  are  supplied  by  the  neighbouring  ocean  to  the  shires  that 
border  it  are  there  in  the  greatest  plenty.  Occasionally  also  on  these 
shores  whales  of  different  kinds  are  cast,  and  there  is  a  supply  of  oil  from 
this  source  for  many  uses.  Herds  of  seals  or  sea-calves  are  not  wanting. 
There  are  many  kinds  of  cod,  which  are  distinguished  from  each  other 
by  size  or  various  marks,  and  turbot,  skate,  the  fish  called  by  the  name 
of  the  dog,  plaice,  stingrays,  mackerel,  soles,  angel  fish,  sea-eels,  catfish, 
ugly  to  look  at,  but  when  skinned  tender  and  wholesome,  as  well  as 
many  other  kinds,  even  in  countless  numbers,  which  are  peculiar  to  the 
north,  and  have  not  yet  got  their  Latin  names  ;  while  the  river-mouths 
and  the  seaside  rocks  teem  with  oysters,  sea-perch,  lobsters,  sea-cockles, 
conger-eels,  mussels,  sea-snails,  top-shell  fish,  scallops,  and  the  other 
shellfish  called  by  the  Greeks  oorpaKoSep/ia. 

Hence  are  annually  exported  and  exchanged  for  money  or  other 
merchandise  for  the  use  of  the  inhabitants,  goods  of  various  kinds,  as 
corn,  especially  barley  of  excellent  quality,  coals  dug  from  the  ground, 
salmon,  beef,  hides,  skins,  cheese,  and  tallow.  Iron  is  also  obtained 
from  veins  of  the  metal. 

vol..  n.  2  F 


450  TRANSLATION:  CAITHNESS 

On  these  coasts  there  are  no  dormice,  and  even  when  they  are  im- 
ported in  ships,  as  often  casually  happens,  they  do  not  live  here,  which 
may  perhaps  seem  strange,  seeing  that  the  neighbouring  Caithness, 
separated  from  this  shire  hy  neither  sea  nor  river,  is  very  much  infested 
with  them.  For  use  in  building  there  are  stones  of  various  kinds, 
chiefly  sandstone  and  limestone,  and  there  are  numerous  quarries  of 
slate  for  roofing  houses. 

Dornoch,  the  chief  town  of  the  district,  on  the  south  coast,  near  the 
frith  or  bay  that  separates  this  shire  from  Ross,  and  opposite  to,  and  in 
sight  of  Tain,  is  noted  for  its  castle  and  its  cathedral,  and  recognises 
Gilbert,  a  bishop  of  old,  as  its  founder.  Here  is  the  burying-ground  of 
the  earls  of  the  district.  Only  the  ruins  of  the  parish  church  of  the 
saint  named  Barr  survive  in  the  city.  The  town  has  numerous  annual 
fairs,  which,  according  to  custom,  they  distinguish  by  the  names  of  the 
saints  on  whose  days  they  are  held,  as  Barr,  Gilbert,  Bernard,  and 
Margaret.  A  little  east  of  the  town  there  remains  a  monument  fashioned 
in  the  shape  of  a  cross  commonly  called  Craisgvorwair,  that  is,  the  cross 
of  the  thane  or  earl',  and  another,  not  unlike  it,  is  seen  at  Embo,  called 
Ri-crois,  that  is,  the  king  a  cross,  and  deriving  its  name  from  a  king  of 
the  Danes  there  slain  and  buried. 

Not  very  long  ago  Sir  Robert  Gordon,  while  acting  as  guardian  to  the 
Earl,  his  nephew  through  his  brother,  caused  this  town  to  be  erected  into 
into  a  royal  burgh,  such  immunities  as  were  necessary  being  granted  for 
this  end. 

There  are  many  castles,  mansions,  and  towers  scattered  through  the 
whole  district,  the  first,  as  we  have  said,  in  the  town,  and  the  next,  on 
the  coast,  Dunrobin,  pleasantly  situated  with  gardens,  orchards,  fresh 
and  clear  waters,  and  an  extensive  park.  There  are  besides  Skelbo, 
Skibo,  Pronsie,  Polrossie,  Innershin,  Cuttil,  Embo,  Golspie-tour,  Gol- 
spie-kirktoun,  Abirscors,  Ospidel,  Clyn,  Crakok,  Helmsdail,  Torrish, 
Doun-Creigh,  and  Castel  urgoirr. 

The  earls  of  this  county  are  of  ancient  and  most  noble  lineage,  and  in 
the  supreme  convention  of  the  Orders  have  their  place  among  the  first. 
Lord  Reay  holds  many  parts  of  Strathnaver  by  the  right  of  a  vassal  of 
the  Earl  of  Sutherland  ;  and  the  rights  of  an  admiral  in  his  own  domains 
and  in  several  others  belong  to  him. 

CAITHNESS. 

We  have  told  above  how  widely  of  old  this  name  Cattey  extended 
on  these  coasts,  though  now  this  shire  alone  about  which  we  speak  is 
designated  by  it,  with  the  suffix  ness,  which  means  a  cape.  We  have  told 
what  tribes,  whose  memory  has  entirely  perished,  were  the  inhabitants 
of  these  localities.  But  it  is  to  be  remarked  that  many  names  of  places 
even  at  the  present  day  have  a  foreign  sound,  and  that  their  origin 
can  represent  nothing  Scottish  or  Irish  or  Danish  or  Norwegian ;  and 


TRANSLATION:  CAITHNESS  451 

they  seem  to  be  of  unknown,  uncertain,  and  extremely  ancient  deriva- 
tion. Such  are  Ocbuster,  Lyibster,  Robuster,  Trumbuster,  and  count- 
less others.  The  modern  popular  speech,  rude  enough,  is  Scottish-Irish, 
partaking-  of  both,  and  not  closely  resembling  either. 

This  is  the  utmost  limit  of  the  mainland  of  Scotland,  which  extending 
northward  to  the  hamlet  of  Dungisbee,  is  distant  hardly  three  minutes 
from  the  forty-ninth  degree  of  north  latitude. 

It  must  be  noted  here  that  though  Ptolemy  in  his  Geography,  through 
wrong  information,  has  given  these  coasts,  which  look  due  north,  a 
turn  to  the  east,  still,  if  we  overlook  this  error  the  rest  will  be  correct ; 
and  if  any  one  will  restore  to  the  north  what  he  has  bent  to  the  east,  the 
positions  of  the  districts  will  be  appropriately  squared. 

Before  Ptolemy,  these  coasts  were  unknown  to  the  Romans,  who, 
thinking  that  the  whole  island  ended  like  a  wedge,  likened  it  to  a  battle- 
axe,  while  in  reality  it  stretches  here  with  a  broad  front,  which  is  seen 
to  be  marked  by  three  capes,  of  which  the  first,  on  the  east,  looking 
across  to  the  Orkneys,  is  named  by  the  same  author  Veruvium,  now 
Duiigisby,  when  in  reality  the  Orcas  promontorium  ought  to  have  been 
placed  here.  The  reason  of  the  error  was  that  he  considered  the 
Orkneys  to  be  situated  more  to  the  west  than  their  true  position  is ;  and 
thus  he  marked  the  cape  nearest,  as  he  thought,  to  them  with  their 
name.  The  middle  cape  in  this  front,  as  the  land  recedes,  is  not  so 
prominent  as  the  others.  In  Ptolemy  it  is  Virvedrum,  but  it  is  now 
known  by  the  name  of  Row  Rachy,  or  in  Scots  Strathy  Head.  The 
third,  on  the  west,  is  Ptolemy's  Orcas  and  Tarvedrum,  our  Faro  or 
Parrohead  [Cape  Wrath],  The  shores,  bending  at  this  point,  turn  to  the 
south  or  south-east. 

Caithness  on  the  south  and  south-west,  as  we  have  said,  is  separated 
from  Sutherland  by  the  Ord,  a  very  lofty  and  rugged  mountain  which, 
running  far  inland,  forms  the  boundary  as  far  as  the  hill  of  Knockfinn, 
whence,  following  the  course  of  the  river  Hallowdail  from  its  source  to  its 
mouth  and  the  mountainous  ground  of  Drum-na-hallowdale  at  the  same 
river,  the  boundary  is  reckoned  to  lie  between  this  shire  and  Strath- 
naver.  The  eastern  side  is  washed  by  the  ocean,  and  the  parts  that 
incline  to  the  north  are  separated  from  the  Orkneys  by  the  wild  and 
dangerous  frith  that  has  the  name  of  Pentland.  This  frith  is  dreaded 
by  navigators,  and  is  difficult  to  cross  except  on  rare  occasions,  though 
the  winds  are  laid.  The  reason  is  that  when  the  tide  rushes  every  day 
from  the  north,  surrounding  the  Orkneys  and  penetrating  them,  it 
meets  its  first  obstruction  from  the  lands,  so  that  this  immense  volume 
of  water,  traversing  those  isles  in  many  channels,  and  then  pouring  into 
this  frith  from  the  rest  of  the  sea,  forms  eddies  and  contrary  waves  to 
the  danger  of  ships. 

If  we  have  regard  to  the  nature  of  the  soil  along  the  coast  or  the 
courses  of  rivers,  it  is  generally  low  and  suitable  for  cultivation.  It 
yields  fruitful  crops  of  all  kinds,  nor  is  anything  wanting  for  the  support 


452  TRANSLATION:  CAITHNESS 

of  life,  as  grass  for  cattle  in  the  plains  or  valleys,  fowling  or  hunting 
in  the  mountains,  fishing  in  the  sea  or  the  rivers,  and  that  too,  particu- 
larly abundant.  Everything  here  is  sold  at  a  cheap  price,  either  on 
account  of  the  great  supply,  or  the  rarer  opportunities  for  commerce  and 
the  scarcity  of  money. 

The  land,  as  I  have  said,  furnishes  crops  generously,  and  not  only  for 
the  use  of  the  inhabitants  but  also  for  exportation  ;  but  through  the  fault 
of  the  somewhat  damp,  clayey  soil,  all  crops  here  are  rather  late  in 
ripening,  nor  do  they  possess  the  same  excellence  as  those  of  the  neigh- 
bouring Sutherland  and  Ross.  The  country  is  mostly  devoid  of  timber, 
and  procures  it  from  the  bordering  Strathnaver  in  exchange  for  corn, 
in  which  that  province  is  equally  lacking.  For  fuel  they  use  divots, 
or  a  black  bituminous  earth  dug  out  from  under  them,  and  very  well 
suited  for  maintaining  a  fire.  This  earth  is  nowhere  absent,  and  is  in 
use  among  all  our  northern  communities. 

The  interior  is  occupied  by  many  great  mountains,  which  are  visible 
to  those  who  can  see  far  off  from  the  opposite  shores  of  Buchan,  Boyne, 
and  Enzie.  The  loftiest  of  all  are  those  which  derive  their  name  from 
maidens'  paps,  which  they  seem  to  resemble. 

There  are  many  lochs  on  the  lower  grounds  and  marshy  valleys, 
through  which  rivers  flow,  or  in  which  they  rise,  but  none  is  of  large 
extent  or  great  name,  although  all  abound  in  fish.  The  rivers  are 
pretty  numerous,  but  moderate  in  size,  nor  have  they  a  long  course,  as 
the  ocean  surrounds  much  of  the  land. 

The  most  populous  town  of  the  shire  is  Wick,  facing  the  sea  on  the 
east  coast,  with  a  safe  harbour  for  mooring  ships  :  here  trade  is  carried 
on.  Another  faces  the  north  on  a  small  bay,  and  is  called  Thurso,  with 
a  safe  harbour  and  roadstead.  It  receives  traffic,  or  sends  it  to  out- 
siders. Many  castles,  mansions,  and  villages  are  scattered  here  and 
there  according  to  the  taste  of  proprietors  or  to  suitability  of  situation, 
and  some  are  conspicuous  by  handsome  buildings  or  by  the  strength  of 
their  walls.  Castle  Sinclair,  formerly  Gernigo,  a  stronghold  of  the 
earls,  holds  the  first  place,  and  in  its  neighbourhood  is  Akergill,  which 
once  belonged  to  the  family  of  the  Keiths  of  Innerugie,  but  now,  having 
passed  to  these  earls,  it  is  neglected  owing  to  the  vicinity  of  the 
other.  As  we  proceed  a  little  farther  the  Earl's  castle  of  Keiss  is  seen. 
There  is  also  in  the  far  north,  a  few  miles  from  Dungisby,  the  Castle  of 
Mey,  likewise  a  pleasant  seat  of  the  Sinclairs.  To  the  same  family  also 
belongs  Dunbeth  Castle  on  the  south  coast,  built  on  a  rock  in  the  sea, 
and  near  it  Berridale,  belonging  to  the  Earl.  There  are,  besides,  many 
other  buildings  that  are  not  despicable,  but  it  is  not  worth  while  to 
mention  them  all. 

This  district  forms  a  sheriffdom  by  itself,  as  I  have  said,  and  is  in  the 
heritable  right  of  the  earls  by  the  favour  of  the  late  Marquis  of  Huntly 
to  his  relatives.  The  most  noble  Lord  Sinclair  of  Ravensheugh,  as  we 
noticed  in  the  Description  of  Fife,  is  from  of  old  reckoned  the  Chief  of 


TRANSLATION:  STRATHNAVER  453 

the  whole  family.  His  ancestors  had  held  the  Orkneys  and  Shetland 
with  the  title  of  Earls,  and  were  connected  by  affinity  with  the  royal 
house  of  the  Danes,  through  marriage  with  their  daughter,  but  when, 
owing  to  the  bad  management  of  one,  who  was  called  by  the  name  of 
William  the  Spendthrift  by  posterity,  they  lost  these  provinces,  very 
many  nevertheless  remained,  and  even  now  at  the  present  day  remain, 
as  private  gentlemen  in  those  islands.  To  them  the  Earls  of  Caithness, 
who  have  now  spread  their  stock  widely  through  the  shire  we  are 
describing,  owe  their  origin. 

There  are  also  many  other  illustrious  families  and  some  proprietors, 
who  have  scarcely  ever  made  their  abodes  here,  as  the  Keiths  of  Innerugie, 
whose  whole  inheritance  was  created  by  the  Earl  Marischal's  family, 
which  also  founded  the  same  house  of  Innerugie  several  centuries 
ago  ;  and  there  are  the  Mowetts,  or  more  truly  De  Monte  alto,  who  at 
the  present  time  hold  their  ancestral  estates  in  these  localities.  It 
would  be  tedious  and  foreign  to  my  purpose  to  review  the  lesser  native 
families. 

No  small  portion  of  the  county  was  not  very  long  ago  held  of  the 
Bishop  in  feu  and  copyhold,  to  which  afterwards  the  Treasury  succeeded. 

After  you  have  sailed  past  the  town  of  Thurso,  no  further  city  and  no 
town,  as  far  as  the  western  coast  of  this  kingdom  extends,  will  meet 
you  until  you  land  at  Dumbarton  in  the  inmost  corner  of  the  Frith  of 
Clyde,  to  such  a  degree  is  the  genius  of  the  inhabitants,  who  cling 
tenaciously  to  the  ancient  language  and  the  ancient  manner  of  living, 
dulled  to  the  cultivation  of  a  more  civilized  life  ;  but  if  we  consider  the 
matter  rightly,  this  is  due  to  laziness  rather  than  to  imitation  of  the 
ancients.  There  are  certainly  not  lacking  in  many  places  facilities  for 
building  cities,  and  large  and  very  safe  and  capacious  harbours.  The  sea 
is  full  of  fish  of  all  kinds,  the  land  is  fertile  and  adapted  for  crops  and 
cattle,  the  rivers  are  suitable  for  carriage  ;  but  all  these  advantages  are 
unheeded  by  laziness,  and  the  inhabitants  are  for  the  most  part  reared 
in  the  homes  where  they  were  born,  and  there  they  grow  old,  so  that 
this  coast  seems  less  known  to  all  foreigners,  and  even  to  our  own 
countrymen,  except  to  a  very  few,  and  has  little  trade.  I  am  well  aware 
that  some  men  equal  to  this  task  applied  their  minds  to  the  founding  of 
cities,  and  when  the  privileges,  liberties,  and  immunities  which  are 
usual  in  cities,  and  without  which  those  enterprises  cannot  succeed,  were 
sought,  these  men,  though  encouraged  by  the  decrees  promulgated  to 
that  end,  failing  to  realise  their  wishes  (so  often  by  fate  do  unlawful  acts 
prevail  in  our  country),  ceased  to  have  any  concern  about  the  matter. 

STRATHNAVER. 

This  district  derives  its  name  from  the  River  Naver,  which  inter- 
sects its  centre.  It  begins  where  Caithness  ends,  at  the  River  Hallow- 
dail,  and  stretches  right  westwards.  Separated  from  Edir-da-Chewlis 


454  TRANSLATION:  STRATHNAVER 

by  the  bay  and  river  of  Durenish,  it  has  the  wide  and  open  sea  on  the 
north,  and  no  land,,  no  island  opposite,  even  in  the  extreme  north.  On 
the  south,  as  we  have  said,  Sutherland  is  next  to  it,  and  is  separated  from  it 
by  very  high  mountains.  The  country  is  altogether  hilly,  and  rises  into 
numerous  lofty,  rugged,  and  snow-clad  mountains.  There  are  consider- 
able lochs  in  the  valleys  :  it  is  thick  with  woods,  and  there  are  certainly 
not  wanting  fine  harbours.  But  it  is  better  adapted  for  cattle  than  for 
crops  :  as  regards  corn  it  is  not  self-sustaining,  a  want  that  is  largely 
made  up  by  the  neighbouring  Caithness  by  the  exchange  of  timber. 
But  one  may  here  see  countless  numbers  of  cattle,  horses,  goats,  and 
other  tame  animals,  and  there  is  a  plentiful  supply  of  stags,  does,  and 
game  of  all  kinds.  The  violence  and  numbers  of  most  rapacious  wolves 
which  hei'e,  prowling  about  wooded  and  pathless  tracts,  cause  great  loss 
of  beasts  and  sometimes  of  men,  are  such  that,  driven  from  almost  all 
the  rest  of  the  island,  they  seem  to  have  fixed  their  lairs  and  their 
homes  here.  Assuredly  they  are  nowhere  so  plentiful.  The  industrious 
inhabitants,  so  far  as  permitted  by  the  climate  and  the  soil,  with  their 
own  oxen  labour  their  lands,  which  lie  along  the  sea-coast,  for  a  little 
farther  inland  the  mountains  that  overhang  the  rivers  preclude  this. 
But  the  sea,  the  bays,  and  the  rivers  wonderfully  abound  in  fish,  so  that 
no  small  revenue  accrues  to  the  inhabitants,  and  the  proprietor  especi- 
ally, from  the  capture  of  salmon.  Here  iron  mines  are  worked,  and 
owing  to  the  beneficial  presence  of  woods  the  iron  from  the  veins  is 
smelted,  and  being  exported  yields  a  profit.  Great  numbers  of  cattle 
and  colts  are  sent  to  the  fairs  in  the  neighbouring  localities  ;  and  by  sea 
also  are  conveyed  beef,  salted  and  stored  in  barrels  for  the  use  of 
voyagers,  hides  and  skins  of  cattle  and  deer,  tallow  and  other  produce. 
Pork  is  here,  as  everywhere,  rather  scarce.  And  it  may  suffice  to  say 
this  once  about  the  whole  kingdom,  that  pork  is  generally  despised,  and 
left  to  be  consumed  by  the  mean  populace,  and  that  many  utterly  abhor 
it.  Owing  to  the  facilities  afforded  by  rivers  and  burns  flowing  down 
among  the  mountains  and  hills  there  are  in  our  kingdom  mills  without 
end.  The  tenant  of  a  mill,  according  to  ancient  custom,  pays  yearly  to 
the  proprietor,  besides  other  dues,  a  castrated  pig,  and  sometimes  several. 
Unless  this  custom,  which  is  in  force  even  at  the  present  day,  prevented 
it,  we  may  believe  that  the  whole  breed  of  swine  would  long  ere  this 
have  become  extinct. 

It  will  seem  strange  that  the  Danes,  when  they  were  subjugating 
England  and  harassing  our  kingdom,  infested  even  these  shores  and 
sought  settlements  here.  But  this  is  undoubted,  and  at  one  or  two 
places  on  the  coast  there  remain  monuments  of  victories  gained  over 
them  ;  and  their  memory  endures.  On  the  sandy  beach  between  the 
two  noble  rivers,  Naver  and  Torrisdail,  whose  mouths  are  a  space  of  two 
miles  distant  from  each  other,  ruins,  now  covered  by  the  sea  and  the 
sand,  show  that  there  was  once  a  town  ;  but  no  towns  any  longer  remain 
on  these  coasts,  as  I  have  said  above  in  describing  Caithness.  The  whole 


TRANSLATION  :  EDIR-DA-CHEULIS  455 

of  the  inhabitants  of  this  province  live  in  hamlets.  The  Chief  has  a 
mansion  called  Farr,  and  more  inland  on  the  bay,  Kintail  in  a  convenient 
situation,  and  [houses]  in  several  other  places. 

This  province  is  divided  into  five  small  districts,  which  extend  along 
the  shore,  if  we  begin  from  the  east,  in  the  following  order  :  Hallowdail, 
enclosed  within  the  rivers  Hallowdale  and  Strathy  ;  Strathnaver,  with  the 
name  of  the  whole  province,  between  the  Strathy  and  the  Naver  ;  the 
third  is  Kintail,  between  the  bay  of  the  same  name  and  the  Naver ; 
next  is  West  Moan,  from  the  said  bay  to  the  Bay  of  Grebil,  and  thence 
to  the  Bay  of  Durenish  and  the  river  of  the  same  name  :  the  district  of 
Durenish  has  better  and  more  fertile  soil  than  the  rest. 

The  chase,  especially  of  stags,  is  here  frequent,  and  fowling  is  frequent 
here,  the  character  of  the  people  and  of  the  soil  being  conducive  to  this. 
And  he  who  does  not  exercise  himself  in  hunting  and  take  special  de- 
light therein  is  considered  a  man  of  no  worth,  and  for  this  reason  there 
is  always  plenty  of  venison  at  hand. 

The  men  here  are  strong  and  vigorous,  capable  of  enduring  toil, 
accustomed  to  frugality,  and  yet  are  not  of  that  severity  of  manners 
which  the  ruggedness  of  the  country  would  seem  to  forbode,  but  are 
cheerful,  with  frank  simplicity,  and  effusive  in  feasting  with  one  another, 
or  with  strangers  who  come  among  them.  They  entertain  no  cunning 
in  their  minds.  There  is  the  same  disposition  of  mind  and  manners  also 
in  the  other  neighbouring  provinces  that  we  have  treated  of,  which  I 
do  not  think  it  any  longer  necessary  to  repeat  in  the  description  of  each. 

It  is  a  habit  common  to  all  those  districts  where  the  ancient  language 
is  spoken,  that  they  revere,  court,  and  love  their  Chief  in  the  highest 
possible  degree ;  fight,  and  readily  lay  down  their  lives  for  him  in 
dangers ;  and  in  addition  to  the  usual  burdens  of  their  farms,  whenever 
necessity  arises,  as  when  the  Chief  is  giving  his  daughter  in  marriage, 
or  paying  his  debts,  or  redeeming  mortgaged  estates,  or  acquiring  new 
ones,  they  contribute  willingly  by  way  of  extraordinary  dues  the  fourth 
or  the  fifth  cow  (for  it  is  unusual  to  rear  male  cattle),  all  cheerfully 
without  distinction  of  wealth  or  poverty.  This  tax,  formerly  wont  to  be 
applied  to  the  aforesaid  uses,  is  now,  though  the  occasions  have  ceased, 
regularly  exacted  every  five  or  three  years,  and  patiently  endured,  as 
custom  so  directs. 

The  present  owner  of  the  whole  district  is  Donald  Mackay,  Lord 
Reay,  who  now  holds  under  his  sway  this  inheritance,  possessed  in  a 
long  line  by  his  ancestors,  as  is  to  be  told  soon. 

EDIR-DA-CHEULIS. 

If  you  translate  the  name  of  the  small  district  from  the  ancient 
language,  it  means  between  two  straits,  and  it  is  actually  so  placed,  for  it 
extends  from  Durenish  on  the  north-east  to  the  Bay  of  Cheulis-Cung 
towards  the  south-west,  where  it  has  adjoining  it  the  district  of  Assynt. 


456  TRANSLATION:  MORAY 

It  is  all  rough  with  woods,  mountains,  and  pathless  tracts,  and  incapable 
of  being  tilled  or  bearing  crops,  except  in  a  very  few  places.  The  sea,  as 
in  the  whole  neighbourhood,  yields  fish,  and  the  bays  abound  with 
herrings.  The  mountains  are  very  well  adapted  for  hunting  and  fowling. 
At  the  small  loch  of  Stacky  there  is  a  wooded  tract  where  all  the  stags  are 
found  with  forked  tails  ;  and  on  the  neck  of  land  at  the  promontory  of 
Faro-head  there  is  agreeable  and  successful  hunting  of  deer  driven  thither 
in  herds,  and  surrounded  by  a  circle  of  many  men,  or  by  the  sea.  The 
population  is  scanty,  as  these  rugged  and  pathless  localities  maintain  few 
inhabitants,  and  is  fully  supplied  with  herds  of  horses,  cattle,  and  goats, 
so  that  neither  fish  nor  flesh  nor  milk-food  is  wanting.  In  former  times 
it  acknowledged  Sutherland  as  lord,  but  it  is  reckoned  in  Strathnaver, 
and  has  the  chief  of  that  district  as  its  lord. 

MORAY. 

When  about  to  describe  Moray  we  may  be  allowed  first  to  make  the 
remark  with  perfect  truth,  that  it  is  second  to  none  in  healthiness  of 
climate,  and  far  surpasses  all  the  other  northern  shires  in  kindliness  and 
fertility  of  soil  and  in  the  mildness  of  the  air.  So  temperate  is  the  air 
here  that,  when  all  the  country  round  about  is  frozen  with  the  rigours  of 
winter,  neither  does  the  snow  lie  long  nor  does  frost  do  any  damage  to 
fruits  or  trees.  Thus  we  find  the  boast  of  the  inhabitants  to  be  quite 
true,  that  they  experience  forty  sunny  days  every  year  more  than  all 
their  neighbours.  Nothing  is  produced  anywhere  in  the  whole  kingdom 
that  does  not  thrive  here  luxuriantly,  or  if  it  is  lacking,  this  must  be  due 
to  the  indolence  of  the  inhabitants,  and  not  to  the  fault  of  the  climate 
or  the  soil.  If  we  have  regard  to  the  crops,  the  earth  pours  them  forth 
from  a  wonderful  and  never-failing  horn  of  plenty  ;  if  to  the  fruits  of  all 
kinds  of  trees,  to  herbs,  flowers,  and  leguminous  plants,  one  may  see 
them  all  here  in  abundance,  and  all  those  are  cut  down  in  thoroughly 
ripe  condition,  and  in  due  season,  when  the  harvest  has  hardly  begun  in 
other  places,  and  are  conveyed  to  open-air  threshing-floors  according  to 
the  custom  of  the  nation.  If  we  compare  it  with  other  districts,  it 
scarcely  feels  the  winter.  The  ground  is  almost  always  open,  the  seas 
are  navigable,  and  the  roads  are  not  blocked  ;  but  since  much  of  the 
land  is  taken  up  with  crops,  grass  is  somewhat  scarce,  for  the  whole  of 
this  district  is  devoted  to  tillage  and  cropping,  and  pasture  is  to  be 
sought  at  no  great  distance,  since  in  the  higher  and  inland  places,  a  few 
miles  off,  it  is  more  than  sufficient ;  and  thither,  when  the  summer  is 
now  pretty  far  advanced,  the  oxen  are  sent  on  the  completion  of  their 
rural  labours.  Nowhere  may  one  see  the  market  better  supplied  than 
here,  nowhere  is  corn  sold  at  a  cheaper  price,  and  that  not  from  want  of 
money,  but  from  the  great  plenty  ;  but  the  inhabitants,  as  often  happens 
in  a  fertile  soil,  are  in  many  places  inactive.  On  the  sea  they  work 
energetically  at  the  fishing,  and  in  it  they  excel  all  their  neighbours. 


TRANSLATION:  MORAY  457 

In  the  lower  grounds  on  the  coast  they  suffer  from  scarcity  of  peat  for 
fuel,  which  is  the  only  inconvenience  felt  hy  this  highly  favoured  region, 
but  even  that  in  few  places,  and  they  remedy  it  by  hard  drinking  in 
company,  for  this  also  must  be  admitted.  And  those  who  actively  exert 
themselves  in  tillage  have  no  leisure,  and  neither  feel  it  nor  care  for  it. 
This  thirsty  land  misses  the  frequent  summer  showers,  but  has  exuberance 
of  crops,  and  in  these  localities,  contrary  to  the  experience  of  neighbour- 
ing places,  the  land  labours  under  no  more  serious  evil  than  drought. 

This  district,  from  the  river  Ness  and  its  mouth,  along  the  shore  to 
the  river  Spey,  if  you  go  from  the  towns  to  the  towns  as  the  line  of 
the  road  leads  you,  embraces  thirty-four  miles.  But  it  is  unequal  in 
breadth.  This  fertile  land  scarcely  exceeds  six  or  seven  miles,  and  in 
some  places  it  is  narrower. 

The  land  lies  low,  occasionally  rising  into  pleasant  hills,  and  is  chiefly 
sandy,  but  always  mixed  with  clay,  and,  with  manure  spread  over  it,  is 
remarkably  rich. 

Besides  the  boundary  rivers,  it  is  watered  by  the  rivers  Nairn  and 
Findhorn,  and  also  by  the  Lossie,  a  small  stream  at  Elgin. 

The  River  Ness,  if  its  source  is  sought,  flows  from  Loch  Coich,  not  far 
from  the  Vergivian  Sea,  whence  under  the  name  of  the  Coich,  after  a  course 
of  several  miles  running  to  the  south-east,  it  enters  Loch  Garrif  [Garry], 
and  flowing  through  this,  now  with  the  name  of  Garry,  entering  a  third 
loch  called  Eawich  [Oich],  then  turning  to  the  north-east,  after  a  space  of 
two  miles  it  falls  into  Loch  Ness,  which  is  twenty-four  miles  long,  and  is 
a  lake  in  a  land  uncultivated  and  rugged  all  round.  Yet  it  never  freezes. 
Issuing  from  the  loch,  and  four  miles  lower  washing  the  town  of  Inner- 
ness,  it  falls  into  the  Moray  Firth. 

The  River  Nairn,  rising  in  the  mountainous  ground  that  separates 
Strathern  from  Glentarf,  and  intersecting  the  tract  of  its  own  name  (they 
call  it  Strath  Nairn),  flows  to  the  north-east,  aud  enters  the  sea  at  the 
small  town  likewise  of  its  own  name,  without  a  harbour  however. 

The  River  Findhorn  rises  in  those  ridges  which  separate  Badenoch 
and  Glentarf  from  Strathern  [Strathdearn],  and  with  the  designation  of 
the  Ern,  whence  the  tract  that  it  waters  is  called  Strath-Ern,  but  when 
it  is  nearer  the  sea  assuming  the  name  of  the  Findhorn,  passes  Tarnway 
Castle  and  the  town  of  Forres,  and  has  its  mouth  at  the  formerly  rich 
and  celebrated  Abbey  of  Kinloss.  Where  it  enters  the  sea,  at  its  very 
mouth,  it  bends  to  the  west,  so  that  though  the  harbour  is  quite  safe,  it 
is,  however,  difficult  to  find. 

The  Lossie,  rising  from  the  confluence  of  three  streams  a  few  miles 
above  Elgin,  and  washing  that  city  on  the  north,  flows  into  the  sea  not 
far  from  thence.  It  is  remarkable  for  nothing  except  that  it  does  great 
damage  to  the  fertile  fields  in  its  vicinity,  especially  when  its  waters  over- 
flow into  the  neighbouring  Loch  of  Spynie,  by  reason  of  which  a  great 
deal  of  fine  land  is  carried  away,  and  added  to  the  loch,  nor  does  the  evil 
cease  at  any  time. 


458  TRANSLATION:  MORAY 

The  mighty  river  Spey,  clear  and  swift,  and  the  largest  of  all  next  to 
the  Tay,  issues  from  a  small  loch  of  its  own  name  among  the  ridges  of 
the  mountains  between  Badenoch  and  Lochaber,  and  rushes  generally  in 
a  north-easterly  direction,  everywhere  flanked  by  lofty  mountains  and 
crowned  with  forests,  being  enlarged  by  many  rivers  and  innumerable 
burns  from  the  mountain  heights,  until  it  comes  within  six  miles  of  the 
sea.  Then,  turning  its  course  straight  to  the  north,  and  intersecting 
level  and  cultivated  ground,  to  the  great  damage  of  the  neighbouring 
places  and  fields,  it  enters  the  river-mouth.  Marked  by  no  harbour,  it 
admits  smaller  craft  with  difficulty,  being  hardly  affected  by  the  tide  for 
a  mile  ;  and  it  frequently  swells  in  the  heat  of  summer  when  there  is  no 
rain,  but  the  west  winds  are  blowing,  and  driving  its  waves.  No  river 
in  Britain  is  equal  to  it  in  the  yield  of  salmon,  except  the  Dee  and  Don, 
which,  however,  it  rivals,  though  with  variations  in  the  years,  for  there 
are  preserved  and  exported  from  this  in  a  year  eighty  and  often  more 
than  a  hundred  lasts,  as  they  call  them,  each  of  which  consists  of  twelve 
barrels,  and  if  its  proportion  to  a  ton  be  stated,  is  greater  by  a  fourth 
part.  The  whole  of  this  fishery,  so  lucrative  to  the  proprietors,  is  begun 
and  finished  within  a  very  few  months  in  summer,  and  within  the  space 
of  one  mile,  at  the  village  of  Germack  [Garmouth].  Fishing  is  practised 
in  the  whole  course  of  the  river  from  its  source  ;  yet  the  catch  is  hardly 
preserved,  but  goes  to  supply  daily  needs  ;  and  this  fishing  is  done  at 
night  with  three-pronged  leisters  aimed  at  the  fish  as  they  swim,  or 
with  wicker-boats  covered  with  leather.  Lucan  well  describes  these 
coracles  :  (  First,  white  willows,  with  the  twig  wetted,  are  woven  into  a 
little  skiff,  and  being  covered  with  neat's  leather  it  carries  its  passenger 
and  overtops  the  swelling  river.'  No  man  in  his  senses  or  without 
experience  would  go  on  board  such  coracles,  but  practised  men  boldly 
and  safely  trust  themselves  to  these  on  the  wild  river  swollen  beyond 
measure,  when  other  means  of  crossing  fail. 

The  rights  of  this  profitable  fishery  belonged  of  old  to  the  abbey  of 
Pluscarden.  A  story  about  this  has  come  down  to  us  to  the  effect  that 
one  of  our  olden  kings,  whose  name  is  forgotten,  while  on  a  journey 
lodged  at  this  abbey,  and  was  entertained  with  a  repast  by  no  means  fit 
for  a  king.  On  his  wondering  at  the  poor  service,  the  abbot  excused  it 
on  the  ground  of  poverty.  Then,  when  the  king  said  that  he  would  grant 
anything  that  could  be  conceded  without  injustice  to  others,  the  abbot 
replied  that  there  was  no  land  left  unappropriated,  it  being  all  possessed, 
but  that  he  only  asked  a  few  furlongs  of  the  river,  which  would  harm  no 
one,  and  was  in  the  king's  right.  The  king  readily  consented  to  this 
being  granted. 

This  province  is  divided  into  two  shires  or  sheriffdoms  :  the  larger 
one  goes  by  the  names  of  Elgin  and  Forres.  The  other,  which  is 
narrower,  is  called  after  the  name  of  the  small  town  of  Nairn.  From  this 
shire  are  excepted  the  farms  and  lands  which  formerly  belonged  to  the 
bishopric  of  Moray,  for  over  them  the  Bishop  had  sovereign  rights, 


TRANSLATION  :  MORAY  459 

which  have  now  passed  to  the  Treasury.  Some  small  portion  of  land 
near  the  town  of  Innerness  belongs  to  that  shire. 

The  towns  are  Innerness,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ness,  which  is  crossed 
by  a  wooden  bridge.  The  harbour  is  insecure,  and  capable  of  admitting 
only  smaller  vessels,  but  is  in  a  situation  very  commodious  and  suitable 
for  receiving  the  traffic  of  the  neighbouring  districts.  In  ancient  times 
it  was  a  home  of  the  kings.  Its  castle,  on  a  pleasant  hill,  commands  an 
extensive  view  of  the  town  and  the  whole  vicinity.  The  land  near  the 
town  is  fertile,  and  there  is  no  deficiency,  save  that  the  peat  of  which  I 
have  spoken  as  supplying  fuel  is  somewhat  scarce,  and  has  to  be  sought 
at  a  considerable  distance.  The  drink  of  all  these  shires  is  ale,  with, 
or  oftener  without,  hops,  brewed  in  the  old  fashion.  In  all  these  towns 
there  is  not  wanting  plenty  of  wine,  brought  from  foreign  parts,  at  a 
very  fair  price.  I  remember  that  when  in  my  youth  I  was  returning 
home  from  Paris,  I  saw  wine  sold  in  Rouen  at  a  far  dearer  price  than 
the  same  was  sold  at,  a  few  months  afterwards,  in  these  districts.  In 
both  instances  it  was  brought  from  Bordeaux,  and  the  reason  was  the 
moderate  duty  in  our  country ;  and  besides  wines  they  have  their  own 
native  liquor  called  water  of  life.  When  this  is  at  hand,  and  it  is  never 
faraway,  even  the  most  generous  wines  are  disdained.  This  beverage 
is  distilled  from  ale,  with  the  addition  of  spices,  almost  everywhere, 
and  so  great  is  its  abundance  that  it  is  supplied  to  all.  With  it  they 
drench  themselves  in  such  copious  draughts  as  to  astonish  strangers. 
Hardly  any  one  of  better  quality  abstains,  nor  do  the  ladies  escape 
this  disgrace.  Men  travelling  in  the  stormiest  time  of  winter,  amid 
the  intensest  cold,  fortified  with  a  flask  of  this  liquor,  and  some  small 
cheeses,  for  they  care  little  about  sauce  or  bread,  perform  the  longest 
journeys  on  foot  without  any  inconvenience.  And  though  I  have 
noted  these  points  at  this  town,  it  is  the  common  custom  of  all  these 
districts. 

In  following  the  coast  for  a  little  is  seen  the  new  building  of  the  Earls 
of  Moray  called  Castle  Stuart,  situated  in  a  pleasant  and  fertile  spot, 
and  adjoining  it  the  parish  church  of  Pettie,  where  in  former  times  were 
preserved  the  gigantic  bones  of  John,  called,  by  a  figure  implying  the 
opposite,  the  Little  [Petit],  which  are  no  longer  visible,  as  the  church 
was  consumed  by  fire  within  my  lifetime.  Nearer  the  town  is  Culloderi 
Castle,  and  not  far  from  thence  Dacus  [Dalcross],  a  mansion  of  Lord 
Fraser  of  Lovat,  is  to  be  seen  ;  and  in  skirting  the  coast,  and  after  pass- 
ing Ardirsyir,  where  the  ferry  is,  there  is  the  deserted  shore  on  which 
traces  of  the  slaughter  of  the  Danish  army  preserve  the  memory  of 
the  event. 

Next  comes  Nairn,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nairn  on  a  sandy 
shore,  where,  if  I  be  permitted  to  say  anything  contrary  to  the  view  of 
all  writers,  I  see  that  Ptolemy  places  his  Winged  Camp,  which  others 
have  referred  to  Edinburgh.  There  is  certainly  no  fault  in  his  figures, 
since  in  this  place  he  follows  his  regular  plan  of  delineation  with  exactly 


460  TRAXSLYITOX:   MORAY 

consecutive  numbers.  Time  has  changed  the  appearance  of  this  locality, 
and  the  sea  has  partly  destroyed  with  sand  hanks,  and  partly  washed 
away  a  good  part  of  highly  productive  land.  There  are  visible  at  the 
present  day  when  the  tide  ebbs  the  ruins  of  a  splendid  and  noble 
castle  ;  but  about  this  let  others  see. 

Near  the  river  are  seen  various  castles  and  mansions  of  the  lower 
nobility,  whom  they  call  gentlemen  in  the  native  speech.  I  will  merely 
give  the  names  of  some  of  these  places.  Lochluy,  named  from  a  loch 
because  the  sea  there  forms  a  short  inlet,  is  followed  by  Inshok, 
Kinudie,  Penig,  and  Kinsterie.  The  village  of  Auld-Ern  has  near  it 
a  rock,  of  which  fi-agments  when  struck  burn  with  fire  and  emit  a  flame. 
As  the  mass  of  the  rock  meantime  remains,  it  appears  to  me  to  be  a 
vein  of  native  sulphur,  for  it  is  of  an  ashy  or  grey  colour.  It  burns  in 
the  same  way,  and  smells  slightly  of  brimstone. 

As  we  ascend  the  river  we  come  to  Park-Caddel  [Caldal  or  Cawdor] 
Castle,  where  there  is  a  vein  of  pyrites  with  clear  traces  of  copper.  On 
the  opposite  bank  is  situated  Kilraok,  a  castle  of  the  Roses.  In  follow- 
ing the  shore  farther  nothing  is  met  except  fields  covered  with  bent 
and  low  juniper,  and  countless  herds  of  seals,  which  by  their  insidious 
attacks  do  much  damage  to  salmon,  until  Cowbin  [Culbin]  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Findhorn  are  reached.  Above  Cowbin  appear  Grangehill, 
Brodie,  Earlesmill,  Moynes,  and  Lethin  on  a  stream  that  flows  into  the 
Findhorn.  All  these  are  pleasant  dwellings,  and  situated  on  fertile 
soil.  On  the  river  below  a  wood  is  seen  Tarnway,  an  ancient  castle  and 
seat  of  the  Morays.  Two  miles  from  that,  on  the  opposite  bank,  is 
the  town  of  Forres,  in  as  agreeable  a  situation  as  any  other  in  the  north, 
once  noted  for  its  royal  dwelling  and  castle,  which  is  now  almost  gone. 
But  at  the  present  day  it  does  not  maintain  its  former  splendour.  A 
little  below  this  is  the  wealthy  and  splendidly  built  Kiiiloss,  once  very 
famous,  but  by  fate's  decree  little  of  its  ancient  magnificence  remains 
to-day.  Near  it  in  the  river  is  a  weir  for  catching  fish  at  ebb-tide,  such 
as  we  have  described  in  writing  of  Ross.  Midway  to  Forres  stands  a 
great  stone  column,  all  inscribed  with  pictures.  This  record  is  the 
evidence  of  a  celebrated  battle  fought  by  Malcolm,  son  of  Kenneth, 
against  the  Danish  forces,  which  were  commanded  by  Sweno's  generals. 
Now  it  is  mostly  effaced  through  lapse  of  time,  and  no  letters  are 
visible. 

Between  this  town  and  Elgin,  for  eight  miles,  there  are  countless 
castles,  mansion  houses,  and  villages  which  it  is  unnecessary  to  specify. 
I  will  touch  on  a  few  :  Altyr,  belonging  to  the  Cummings,  a  family 
which,  three  hundred  years  ago,  was  the  most  powerful  and  numerous 
of  all  the  Scottish  nobility,  but  now  is  almost  extinct.  That  family  had 
held  the  greatest  part  of  Buchan,  the  whole  of  Strathbogie,  Balvany, 
Badenoch,  Lochaber,  Athole,  and  many  other  districts  in  these  borders,  as 
also  many  in  the  south  of  our  kingdom,  which  do  not  occur  to  me  at  the 
present  moment,  and  no  small  ecclesiastical  revenues  as  well ;  but  on 


TRANSLATION  :  MORAY  461 

taking  the  part  of  Edward  i.,  King  of  England,  to  disgrace  their  father- 
land., against  Robert  i.,  the  champion  of  our  freedom,  they  were  charged 
with  treason,  lost  all  those  estates,  and  for  the  most  part  perished 
miserably  or  left  the  country. 

Next  come  Kilbuyac,  Boge,  Aslyisk,  Burgie,  Ernesyd,  Hemprigs, 
Pittendreich,  Mayue  [Mains],  Quarrelwood  [Quarrywood],  Inchebrok, 
Funrassie  [Findrossie],  Dufhous  [Duffus]  at  the  head  of  the  Loch  of 
Spynie,  by  whose  overflow  it  suffers  great  loss  every  day,  Gordonstoun, 
Kirktoun-Drainie,  and  on  the  coast  the  Burgh  [Burghead],  whence  there 
is  a  daily  passage  to  Ross,  Sutherland,  and  Caithness.  Nearest  is  Rosyl, 
where  the  sand  raised  from  the  seaside  by  the  winds  has  destroyed  a 
great  portion  of  the  best  land.  Lower,  on  the  banks  of  the  loch,  is 
Bellormie,  and  adjacent  to  it  King-Edward,  a  village  with  a  church 
situated  on  most  productive  soil,  and  called  by  the  name  of  that  king  of 
England,  who  had  seized  everything  in  his  usurpation.  In  that  village 
of  old  there  was  a  noble  palace,  as  charters  written  in  the  same  place 
still  testify.  But  of  this  nothing  now  remains.  On  the  other  side 
of  the  Lossie  is  limes,  the  house  of  the  Baron  Innes,  who  holds 
many  estates  in  the  neighbourhood  as  far  as  the  Spey,  and  no  small 
share  of  the  fishings  in  the  river.  There  follow  Leuchars,  Urchart, 
Cokston,  Ortoun  at  the  crossing  of  the  Spey,  and  above  it  Rothes 
Castle,  to  which  the  Earl  of  Rothes,  as  we  said  in  describing  Fife,  owes 
his  titles.  A  few  miles  above  the  city  of  Elgin,  on  the  Lossie,  is  Plus- 
carden,  an  ancient  and  wealthy  abbey  which  wanted  nothing  except  an 
Abbot,  for  it  was  ruled  by  a  Prior.  We  have  touched  on  these  places  out 
of  many,  for  I  consider  it  difficult  and  useless  to  review  the  whole. 
There  remains  Elgin,  the  capital  of  the  shire,  where  justice  is  adminis- 
tered, not  very  long  ago  the  seat  of  a  bishop.  The  Lossie,  winding  in 
various  loops,  surrounds  it  on  the  east  and  north.  The  ruins  of  a  castle, 
placed  in  sandy  but  remarkably  fertile  soil  on  a  hill  to  the  east,  overlook 
the  river.  There  is  a  cathedral  church  in  that  city,  or  rather  the  ruins 
of  the  chui-ch,  which,  while  it  flourished,  appears  to  have  surpassed  all 
the  churches,  not  only  of  the  north  but  of  the  whole  kingdom,  in  size,  in 
splendour,  in  fine  architectural  work,  and  generally  in  its  finished 
magnificence.  The  bishop  had  a  spacious  and  delightful  mansion,  pro- 
tected by  a  strong  castle  called  Spynie,  on  the  banks  of  the  loch  of  the 
same  name,  two  miles  from  the  city,  in  which  he  could  lodge,  and  which 
remains  at  the  present  day.  It  was  surrounded  by  charming  gardens 
and  a  wood,  not  now  in  existence.  The  loch  is  frequented  by  all  sorts 
of  aquatic  birds,  and  especially  swans,  of  which  there  is  here  a  great 
number.  In  the  loch  grows  a  plant  with  a  straight  stalk,  and  leaves  not 
unlike  those  of  the  St.  John's-wort,  but  larger,  with  seed  clustering  at 
the  top  of  the  stalk.  I  did  not  observe  flowers.  It  never  rises  above 
the  waters,  nor  does  it  see  the  pure  air.  The  people  living  near  call  it 
swanweed,  which,  like  countless  other  plants  indigenous  to  this  climate, 
botanists  have  not  vet  noticed.  The  swans  seek  this,  and  readily  feed 


462  TRANSLATION:  MORAY 

on  it,  whence  their  frequenting  of  the  loch.  Now,  if  you  look  at  the 
city,  there  are  no  beautiful  houses,  and  110  such  culture  as  so  favoured 
a  region  is  worthy  of.  This  clearly  shows  the  indolence  of  the  inhabi- 
tants, but,  when  you  have  entered,  nothing  will  be  missed  on  the  table, 
everything  is  plentiful,  everything  excellent,  while  the  community  is 
kindly,  cheery,  frank,  and  given  to  feasting,  and  especially  drinking. 

The  story  goes  that  Thomas  Randolph,  the  gallant  Earl  of  this  district, 
on  his  return  from  the  war  was  met  by  a  great  band  of  widows  from  this 
city,  whose  husbands  had  fallen  in  battle,  and  that,  taking  pity  on  them 
as  they  bewailed  their  bereavement  and  poverty,  he  decided  that  the 
suburban  land  should  be  divided  into  pieces  which,  even  at  the  present 
day,  are  called  the  Eighths,  not  because  there  are  only  eight  of  them, 
for  their  number  is  large,  but  that  name  was  given  to  them.  He  deter- 
mined besides,  that  for  the  future  the  widows  of  the  citizens  should, 
during  their  lives,  have  the  usufruct  of  the  parts  of  which  their  husbands 
were  possessors  when  they  died,  which  now  also  holds  good. 

Above  Elgin,  For  res,  and  Nairn,  as  we  go  inland  we  meet  hills  and 
more  arid  land,  not  to  be  compared  with  the  lower  ground  ;  they  call 
this  the  Brae  of  Murray,  that  is,  Upper  Moray ;  and  when  we  proceed 
farther,  wooded  and  pathless  country,  mountains,  and  grassy  glens 
appear. 

There  remain  the  three  small  districts  of  Strath-Arkeg,  Strath-Nairn, 
and  Strath-Herin  [Strath-ern,  now  Strathdearn],  for  we  have  put  Strath- 
Spey  in  another  place.  There  is  no  reason  why  we  should  linger  over 
them.  Strath-Arkeg  or  Errigeg,  or,  as  it  is  pronounced,  Strath  Herrig, 
is  situated  on  the  burn  of  the  same  name,  which  flows  into  Loch  Ness. 
The  country  is  all  rugged  and  cut  up  by  lochs,  rivers,  and  mountains. 
Its  inhabitants  live  in  hamlets,  and  it  belongs  to  the  Baron  Fraser  of 
Lovat,  and  his  vassals. 

Strath-Nairn,  with  better  land,  is  situated  on  the  course  of  the  River 
Nairn,  and  is  possessed  by  various  proprietors. 

Strath-Ern  [Strathdearn]  lies  along  the  River  Findhorn,  and  is  well 
cultivated,  and  studded  with  country  houses  and  villages.  In  it  is 
the  Loch  of  Moy,  and  on  its  island  the  mansion  of  the  Chief  of 
Mackintosh,  a  name  which  means  the  son  of  the  thane.  These  Thanes 
were  anciently  the  governors  of  districts,  and  leaders  among  the  chief 
nobles.  To  their  place,  about  the  time  of  Malcolm  Canmoir,  succeeded 
the  Earls,  a  kind  of  dignity  previously  unknown  to  us.  This  chief  of 
whom  we  speak  is  the  head  of  an  ancient  and  wide-spread  family.  That 
clan  is  called  Chattan,  and  is  spread  throughout  this  small  district  and 
also  many  places  in  lower  Moray.  Their  stock  also  occupies  Badenoch 
under  the  name  of  the  Macphersons,  and  also  Braemar  under  the  name 
of  the  Farquharsons. 

The  jurisdiction  of  the  shire  of  Elgin  and  Forres  heritably  belongs  to 
the  family  of  the  Dunbars,  which  rules  widely  in  the  localities  about 
Forres,  and  traces  its  origin  to  the  Earls  of  Moray  of  that  surname, 


TRANSLATION  :  MORAY  463 

who  became  extinct  long  ago.  Round  Elgin  and  its  neighbourhood, 
rivalling  the  Dunbars,  the  clan  of  the  Inneses,  whose  Head  is  Baron 
Innes,  have  their  abodes. 

The  title  of  Earl  of  Moray  frequently  passed  to  different  families,  and 
its  history  is  uncertain  and  confused.  It  was  held  by  Thomas  Randolph, 
sister's  son  to  Robert  i. ,  a  man  not  to  be  mentioned  without  praise, 
who,  on  the  death  of  his  uncle,  conducted  the  government  of  the  king- 
dom, faithfully  and  bravely,  with  the  title  of  Regent.  It  afterwards 
passed  to  the  Dunbars.  The  Douglases  held  it  about  the  time  of 
James  n.  Some  time  it  fell  to  the  Treasury,  and  once  the  Earls  of 
Huntly  acquired  a  right  to  it,  of  which  they  were  deprived  by  Mary 
of  Guise,  Dowager  of  the  kingdom.  Her  daughter,  Mary,  presented  her 
brother  James,  afterwards  Regent,  with  this  earldom.  His  illustrious 
and  noble  great-grandson  now  happily  possesses  the  titles  and  revenues 
of  this  earldom. 

Here  I  desire  to  let  my  reader  know,  when  mention  is  so  often  made 
of  Parliamentary  Barons,  what  I  wish  to  be  understood  by  this  novel 
term.  The  supreme  senate  of  our  realm,  which  has  the  right  of  making 
and  unmaking  [the  laws],  but  with  the  consent  of  the  sovereign,  con- 
sisted of  the  following  orders.  The  first  order  consisted  of  the  dukes, 
if  there  were  any,  marquises,  earls,  viscounts,  and  the  barons  whom 
I  call  Parliamentary.  Of  these,  the  marquises  and  viscounts  are  very 
recent  in  our  country.  The  rank  of  the  counts,  whom  in  the  native 
speech  people  call  earls,  and  of  the  barons,  likewise  in  the  native  speech 
lords,  is  the  most  ancient  of  all,  to  which  alone  our  ancestors  restricted 
themselves.  But  the  barons  simply  so  styled,  and  the  rest  of  the  gentry 
whose  numbers  and  power  are  great,  and  on  whom  the  strength  of  the 
kingdom  depends,  to  avoid  crowding,  filled  the  second  order  through 
persons  chosen  by  themselves.  In  the  same  way  citizens,  delegated  by 
their  own  towns  and  cities,  constituted  the  third  order.  Likewise  the 
bishops,  while  they  existed,  completed  a  regular  senate  with  their  order, 
and  were  reckoned  to  rank  first  on  account  of  their  sacred  office.  But 
the  dignity  of  knighthood  was  considered  by  our  ancestors,  and  not  with- 
out good  reason,  to  be  the  most  honourable,  and  was  held  as  the  reward 
of  military  prowess.  Now,  in  another  aspect  of  affairs,  having  come  down 
to  the  market-places,  the  cities,  and  the  common  populace  it  has  become 
worthless,  and,  especially  since  the  privilege  was  recently  sent  a-begging 
by  the  sovereign,  it  has  lain  open  to  all.  Of  the  squires,  who  are 
numerous  in  our  neighbour  country  of  England,  we  have  no  experience. 
I  also  wish  to  warn  my  reader  that,  though  our  district  contains  so  few 
villages,  paucity  of  population  must  not  be  inferred  ;  and  the  reason  is 
this.  Husbandmen  eager  for  tillage  appeared  to  themselves,  even  from 
the  earliest  times,  to  be  restricted  in  villages,  and  thought  that  sufficient 
provision  was  not  made  for  country  occupations  in  such  close  neighbour- 
hood. The  proprietors  therefore,  dividing  the  fields,  fixed  for  each 
his  own  bounds  according  to  his  means,  so  that  the  settlements  were 


464  TRANSLATION  :  SUTHERLAND 

continuous  but  not  contiguous  ;  consequently  there  was  a  migration 
from  the  villages  into  the  fields,  wherever  any  vein  of  fertile  soil  invited 
the  farmers ;  and  here  their  abodes  were  fixed,  and  with  more  house- 
room  and  without  quarrelling,  one  was  not  any  longer  an  annoyance 
to  his  neighbour,  as  in  the  villages,  and  there  was  greater  freedom  for 
agricultural  pursuits. 

A     TRUE     CHOROGRAPHICAL     DESCRIPTION 
of  SUTHERLAND. 

This  whole  shire  is  highly  productive  of  flocks  and  herds,  crops  and 
fruits,  and  other  things  necessary  for  the  uses  of  men.  The  fishing  here 
is  very  lucrative.  As  regards  its  position,  all  who  have  hitherto  under- 
taken to  describe  it  are  altogether  wrong.  For  Sutherland,  on  the  east 
and  north-east,  is  bounded  by  Caithness  and  the  German  Ocean,  on  the 
west  by  Assint,  on  the  north,  since  Strathnaver  is  now  a  part  of  Suther- 
land, it  is  beaten  by  the  sea,  and  on  the  south  it  has  partly  Ross  and 
partly  an  inlet  of  the  German  Ocean. 

It  is  separated  from  Caithness  by  the  burn  of  Altitudor,  and  by  the 
Ord  mountain,  which  extends  from  the  southern  sea  as  far  as  the  Deu- 
caledonian  Ocean.  Sutherland  is  also  separated  from  Strathnaver  by 
certain  mountains  that  stretch  westwards,  but  since  the  district  of  Strath- 
naver has  been  now  annexed  to  Sutherland  by  the  king's  writ,  we  can 
say  with  truth  that  the  boundary  of  Sutherland  on  the  north  is  the  sea. 
This  shire  is  also  separated  from  Assint  by  three  lakes,  Gormlogh,  Fin- 
logh  and  Loch  Narkel,  and  by  the  mountains  Glasvin  and  Binmoir, 
while  it  is  parted  from  Ross  by  the  rivers  Portneculter  and  Oikel. 
Therefore  all  the  lands  watered  by  the  River  Calsay  [Cassley]  as  far  as 
Aldnegalgus  [Altnacealgach]  and  Leadmore  in  Assint,  and  all  the  land 
that  pays  teinds  to  the  parish  of  Creich  belong  to  the  county  of  Sutherland. 

This  shire  was  originally  called  Cattey,  and  its  inhabitants  Catiegh 
from  the  Moravian  Cattaei  who  landed  here  from  Germany.  For  so  they 
are  named  in  the  Scoto-Irish  which  the  inhabitants  still  use.  But  after- 
wards it  was  named  Sutherland.  Formerly  this  district  embraced  all 
that  tract  of  land  lying  between  the  Portneculter  and  Dungisby,  and 
bounded  by  the  Ord  mountain,  which  runs  in  a  long  range  from  one  sea 
to  the  other.  But  that  county  which  now  rejoices  in  the  title  of  Caith- 
ness of  old  had  its  name  from  a  cape  in  the  shire  of  Cattey,  which  in  the 
native  tongue  they  call  nes,  so  that  Cateynes  is  nothing  else  than  the 
cape  of  Cattey  or  Sutherland,  which  juts  out  from  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Ord  mountain  ;  and  the  bishopric  of  Caithness  doubtless  had  this  title 
at  first  from  Cattey.  For  this  diocese  includes  within  its  bounds 
not  only  Caithness  but  also  Sutherland,  Strathnaver  and  Assint,  all  of 
which  were  known  at  one  time  by  the  single  name  of  Cattey.  Therefore 
the  bishopric  rejoiced  in  the  title  of  all  Cattey,  rather  than  of  that  part, 
and  of  the  headland  of  Cattey-uess.  Nay  more,  the  cathedral  church 


TRANSLATION:  SUTHERLAND  465 

with  the  canons'  residence  and  the  episcopal  seat  is  still  extant,  not  in 
Caithness,  but  in  Dornoch,  a  town  in  Sutherland.  Thus  in  course  of  time 
this  shire  of  Cattey,  with  the  old  name  dropped,  began  to  be  called  by  the 
title  of  Sutherland  ;  nevertheless,  the  name  of  the  bishopric  has  remained 
to  this  day.  And  since  the  diocese  was  first  called  Cattey,  and  this 
name  was  afterwards  discarded  as  obsolete  and  unusual,  the  bishopric  is 
designated  by  the  title  of  Caithness,  as  this  name  comes  nearer  to  the 
derivation  of  the  word  Cattey  than  Sutherland  does.  Boece  in  his 
History  derives  Catteyness  from  Gains  a  man's  proper  name,  and  nes  a 
headland.  The  antiquity  of  these  words  Cattey  and  Cattyness,  together 
with  ignorance  of  the  Scoto-Irish  language,  has  certainly  given  rise  to 
not  a  few  errors  in  naming  these  shires. 

At  the  present  day  Sutherland  is  divided  into  ten  parishes,  where 
there  are  as  many  parish  churches,  besides  innumerable  chapels  :  Dor- 
noch  or  Durnoch,  Crigh,  Lairg,  Rogard,  Culmaly,  Clyn,  Loth,  Kildonan, 
Durines,  and  Farr.  This  last  is  in  Strathnaver.  In  this  county  there 
are  three  forests  of  special  note,  namely  Diri-moir,  Diri-Chat  and  Diri- 
meanigh,  besides  various  glades  and  parks  shady  with  trees,  which  are 
very  well  adapted  for  preserving  and  rearing  wild  animals,  and  are 
devoted  to  the  chase,  being  replete  with  stags,  does,  wolves,  foxes,  wild- 
cats, otters,  martens,  and  every  class  of  woodland  birds.  In  this  shire 
there  is  a  class  of  bird  not  unlike  the  parrot,  called  by  the  inhabitants 
the  knag,  which  every  year  digs  a  nest  for  itself  with  its  beak  in  the 
trunk  of  an  oak.  Here  are  all  kinds  of  hawks.  In  these  forests  there 
is  not  even  a  streamlet  that  does  riot  supply  shoals  of  fishes  of  various 
kinds  for  human  wants.  The  half  of  the  forest  of  Diri-moir,  which 
looks  to  the  north,  belongs  to  Donald  Mackay,  Lord  Rae.  In  the  same 
forest  there  is  a  mountain  commonly  called  Arkil,  where  all  the  stags 
that  are  reared  here  have  forked  tails,  marked  with  a  length  of  three 
thumbs  or  inches,  by  which  they  are  easily  distinguished  from  the  other 
stags  of  this  region.  In  Durines,  where  it  inclines  to  the  south-west  of 
Diri-moir,  there  is  a  celebrated  hunting-ground,  commonly  called  Parwe. 
There  is  also  at  Slattadale  in  the  parish  of  Loth  a  great  abundance  of 
game,  and  these  two  localities  are  very  famous  throughout  the  whole 
kingdom  on  account  of  the  attractions  of  the  chase. 

The  chief  rivers  are  the  Uries  or  Floidac,  the  Evelick,  the  Brora,  the 
Loth,  Helmsdale  or  Ully,  the  Shin  and  the  Cassley,  also  two  border 
rivers,  the  Portneculter  and  the  Oikel,  which  separate  Ross  and  Suther- 
land. All  these  rivers  of  Sutherland  are  notable  for  the  yield  of  salmon 
and  other  fish.  They  have  also  harbours  that  are  very  commodious  for 
admitting  ships,  which  convey  from  hence  into  various  parts  of  the 
kingdom  grain,  salt,  salmon,  beef,  wool,  skins,  hides,  butter,  cheese, 
tallow,  and  other  products.  In  these  rivers  and  on  the  whole  sea-coast 
there  is  great  plenty  of  seals  (and  sometimes  of  whales),  shells  of  various 
kinds  and  sea-birds.  The  river-valleys,  which  here  stretch  in  a  long 
tract  from  the  sea  to  the  mountains,  arid  those  which  are  in  the  neigh- 


VOL.  ii. 


466  TRANSLATION:  SUTHERLAND 

bourhood  of  the  mountains  are  called  .straths  in  the  vernacular.  They 
are  all  cultivated  and  populous,  besides  being  not  only  fruitful  but 
delightful  with  woods  and  forests,  grass  and  corn,  flocks  and  herds,  and 
wild  animals.  The  strath  or  valley  of  the  Ully  stretches  from  south  to 
north  with  a  length  of  twenty  miles.  Strath  Brora,  adjoining  Diri-Chat, 
extends  eighteen  miles  in  length.  Strath  Fleit  or  Strath  Floid  from  the 
sea  to  the  mountains  is  fourteen  miles  long.  Here  there  are  many 
other  straths,  as  Strathterry,  Strath  ne  Seilg,  Strathskinnedel,  Strath- 
telleny,  Strath-dail-narwe,  Strathtolly,  Strath-dail-nemeyn,  Strath-ne- 
fin-ay,  etc. 

In  the  parish  of  Crigh  is  the  land  commonly  called  Slish-chilles, 
otherwise  Ferrin  Coskary,  extending  eighteen  miles,  and  having  the 
rivers  Portnecuter  (or  Tain)  and  Oikel  bounding  it  on  the  south,  where 
are  the  marble  mountains  often  mentioned  by  our  historians.  There  is 
also  another  part  of  Sutherland  commonly  called  Bra-Chat,  that  is,  the 
Height  of  Cattey  or  of  Sutherland,  the  whole  productive  of  crops  and  fish, 
pasturage  and  timber.  It  is  in  the  parish  of  Lairg.  The  length  of  Bra- 
Chat  is  twenty-two  miles,  and  it  is  divided  into  two  parts  by  the  River 
Shin,  which  issues  from  a  loch  of  the  same  name.  The  southern  part  of 
this  land  is  commonly  named  the  Barony  of  Gruids,  in  which  is  included 
Diri-meanigh.  In  the  River  Shin  there  is  a  huge  and  steep  rock,  from 
which  the  waters  flowing  and  meeting  with  a  great  rush  and  a  loud  noise 
create  a  deep  whirlpool.  Here  there  is  a  profitable  fishery  of  very  lar^e 
salmon.  This  river  never  freezes. 

In  Sutherland  there  are  sixty  lochs,  more  or  less,  that  yield  fish.  Of 
all  these  Loch  Shin  is  the  largest,  extending  fourteen  miles  in  length. 
In  most  of  the  lochs  there  are  islands,  very  suitable  for  being  inhabited 
in  the  summer  time.  In  Loch  Shin  there  are  certain  islands  which  pro- 
duce wild  swans  and  geese.  An  island  in  Loch  Brora  is  set  apart  as  a 
dwelling  for  the  Earls  of  Sutherland,  and  is  rendered  attractive  by  the 
stalking  of  deer,  of  which  here  in  the  woods  surrounding  the  loch 
on  both  sides  there  is  great  plenty.  This  island  is  three  miles  from 
Brora. 

In  the  lochs  and  rivers  already  mentioned  pearls  of  great  price  are 
sometimes  found  in  shells.  In  Sutherland  there  are  silver  mines  and 
other  subterranean  resources  which,  owing  to  the  carelessness,  or  rather 
the  ignorance  of  the  inhabitants,  have  not  yet  been  dug  out  of  the  bowels 
of  the  ground.  The  chief  town  of  this  shire  is  Dornogh,  notable  for 
a  castle  of  the  Earls  of  Sutherland,  and  a  cathedral  church  dedicated  to 
the  Blessed  Virgin.  The  founder  of  this  church  was  Gilbert,  Bishop  of 
Caithness,  and  it  is  therefore  designated  by  his  name.  In  the  right  or 
south  part  of  this  church  there  is  the  family  burying-ground  of  the 
Earls  of  Sutherland.  The  parish  church  of  this  town,  dedicated  to 
St.  Barr,  was  demolished  at  the  beginning  of  the  Reformation,  as  they 
call  it.  This  town,  which  Sir  Robert  Gordon,  tutor  of  Sutherland,  caused 
long  ago  to  be  erected  unto  a  royal  and  free  burgh,  is  also  famous  for  the 


TRANSLATION:  SUTHERLAND  467 

fairs  of  St.  Barr,  St.  Gilbert,  St.  Bernard  and  St.  Margaret,  to  which 
enormous  numbers  of  people  flock  every  year  from  the  northern  parts  of 
Scotland.  In  other  towns  also  of  this  shire  there  are  well-attended  fairs 
the  most  important  of  which  is  that  of  St.  Andrew  at  Golspie.  Near  the 
town  of  Dornogh  there  was  lately  discovered  a  quarry,  from  which  slates 
or  thin  slabs  of  stone,  suitable  for  roofing  buildings,  are  dug.  There 
also  are  far-stretching  links,  very  pleasant  on  account  of  their  level 
nature  and  their  nearness  to  the  sea. 

On  the  east  of  Dornogh  is  to  be  seen  a  monument  in  the  form  of 
a  cross,  commonly  called  Crask-Worwair,  that  is  the  cross  of  the  thane  or 
earl.  There  is  another  also  not  far  from  Embo,  Ri-cross,  that  is  the 
king's  cross,  so  named  because  there  a  king  or  leader  of  the  Danes  had 
been  killed  and  buried. 

Nine  miles  beyond  Dornogh ,  to  the  north-east,  is  situated  Brora  at  the 
mouth  of  the  River  Brora,  for  which  John,  Earl  of  Sutherland,  last 
deceased,  obtained  from  the  King  the  rights  and  privileges  of  a  burgh  of 
barony,  as  they  style  it.  Half  a  mile  more  or  less  from  the  mouth  of  this 
river,  and  west  of  it,  excellent  coals  are  dug.  These  they  use  in  the 
salt-pits  for  obtaining  salt,  which  not  only  supplies  Sutherland  and  the 
neighbouring  shires,  but  is  even  exported  into  England  and  other 
countries.  Not  far  from  the  coal-pits,  to  the  west,  is  a  quarry  from 
which  tuffs  are  conveyed  to  other  parts  of  the  kingdom.  Various 
mountains  also  of  white  marble  are  found  in  this  shire.  Not  far  from 
Golspie  occur  stones  from  which  lime  is  made  for  building  purposes. 
Here  also  in  different  localties  there  are  iron  mines,  where  iron  of  very 
fine  quality  is  worked. 

In  the  whole  district  no  dormice  are  seen,  and  if  they  chance  to 
be  brought  hither  in  ships  they  perish  as  soon  as  they  breathe  the  air  of 
this  district.  But,  what  is  more  incredible,  in  Caithness,  adjacent  to  this 
shire,  and  not  separated  from  it  by  either  river  or  sea,  there  are  endless 
swarms  of  dormice.  Sutherland  is  so  intersected  by  arms  of  the  sea  and 
by  rivers  that  there  is  no  town,  village  or  estate  in  it  that  is  not  washed 
by  the  sea  or  running  water,  whence  it  comes  that  the  inhabitants  are 
supplied  with  an  immense  quantity  of  fish.  The  Ord,  almost  the  highest 
mountain  in  this  shire,  and  nearly  impassable,  separates  Sutherland  from 
Caithness.  The  special  grain  here  is  barley,  of  such  excellent  quality 
that  it  is  sold  at  a  higher  price  than  the  barley  of  Orkney,  Caithness  or 
the  shires  in  the  vicinity. 

Here  there  are  various  castles,  but  the  principal  ones  are  Dornogh  and 
Dunrobin,  the  chief  seat  of  the  Earls  of  Sutherland,  by  far  the  most 
commodious  from  its  situation,  its  gardens  and  orchards,  its  varied 
flowers  and  thickly  planted  trees,  its  excellent  crocus,  its  deep  fountain 
constructed  of  dressed  stone,  and  its  park  extending  three  miles  in 
length  and  capitally  stocked  with  conies.  There  are  about  twenty  other 
castles  here,  as  Skelbo,  Skibo,  Pronsie,  Polrossy,  Invershin,  Cuttill, 
Embo,  Golspitour,  Golspie-Kirktoun,  Aberscors,  Ospidell,  Clyn,  Cracok, 


468  TRANSLATION:  SUTHERLAND 

Helmsdel,  Torrish,  Doun-crigh,  Castell-ne-goirr,  Durines,  Borve,  and 
Tongue,  of  which  the  last  two  are  in  Strathnaver.  Doun-Crigh  was 
built  by  a  certain  Paul  Mactire. 

The  length  of  Sutherland  from  west  to  south-east  is  about  fifty-five 
miles,  and  the  breadth  twenty-two  from  south  to  north  ;  but  if  we 
include  Strathnaver  also,  the  breadth  is  thirty-three  miles  from  the 
southern  sea  to  the  northern  ocean.  Assint  was  once  part  of  Suther- 
land, and  was  possessed  by  the  Lords  of  Kinnard  with  the  barony  of 
Skelbo. 

Now  [I  will  say]  something  about  Strathnaver,  since  it  also  is  a  part  of 
Sutherland.  The  country  is  more  fruitful  in  grass  than  in  grain  ;  it  is 
therefore  highly  suitable  for  rearing  cattle.  Here  the  herds  of  oxen 
and  shoals  of  salmon  are  almost  innumerable  ;  and  unless  the  inhabitants 
were  too  much  given  to  sloth  and  idleness,  this  country  could  be 
rendered  much  more  prosperous  and  fertile.  In  Strathnaver  there 
are  various  headlands  running  out  into  the  northern  ocean,  namely 
Eribol,  Hoip,  Strathy,  etc.  ;  it  is  also  watered  by  various  rivers  noted 
for  the  yield  of  salmon.  The  chief  are  the  Halledel,  the  Naver  or 
Farr,  the  Strathy,  the  Torrisdel  and  the  Hoip.  But  Durines  and  Edder- 
achillis,  though  they  belong  to  Mackay,  Lord  Reay,  are  yet  not  properly 
in  Strathnaver.  Strathnaver  is  fortified  with  two  strongholds,  Borve  and 
Tongue,  of  which  the  latter  is  the  principal  seat  of  the  Mackays.  The 
lords  of  this  family  are  buried  in  Kirkebol  Chapel,  recently  restored. 
Here  there  is  an  immense  supply  of  stags  and  does,  and  though  the 
whole  country  rises  into  lofty  mountains,  of  which  the  highest  is  Taine- 
band  [PFoinne-Cheinn],  still  it  is  adapted  for  grazing  cattle.  Strathnaver 
from  east  to  west  is  thirty-four  miles  long.  In  some  places  it  is  twelve 
miles  broad,  but  in  some  only  six,  from  south  to  north,  exclusive  of  Durines 
and  Edderachillis.  Here  are  many  lochs,  of  which  the  chief  is  Loch 
Naver.  In  Loch  Lyol  there  is  an  island  set  apart  for  summer  quarters. 
Near  the  shore  of  the  northern  ocean  various  islands  are  scattered,  namely 
Ellen  Com,  Ellen  Zeil  [losal],  Ellen  Roin,  and  Ellen  Niwe  [Neave]. 

Edderachilis  is  a  stretch  of  country  on  the  sea-coast  looking  towards 
the  west,  and  impassable  with  wild  rocks.  It  borders  on  the  limits  of  the 
Earl  of  Sutherland  at  Knockanchalligh  ;  and  though  it  now  belongs  to 
Mackay,  still  it  never  was  a  part  of  Strathnaver,  but  a  part  of  the  barony 
of  Skelbo  in  Sutherland,  and  Lord  Macky  still  possesses  Edderachillis  in 
right  of  the  Earls  of  Sutherland.  There  is  a  river  in  it  commonly  called 
the  Laxford,  from  which  Mackay,  or  Macky,  has  a  large  revenue  out  of 
salmon.  The  island  of  Handy,  or  Elian  Handey,  in  the  main  ocean 
belongs  to  Edderachilis,  or  rather  to  Durines. 

The  barony  of  Durines  enjoys  a  level  and  agreeable  soil  where  it  looks 
to  the  north-west,  and  though  Mackay,  Lord  Reay,  now  holds  possession  of 
it  in  right  of  the  Earls  of  Sutherland,  and  as  their  beneficiary,  yet  it  does 
not  belong  to  Strathnaver,  but  the  Earls  of  Sutherland  have  it  by  feuda- 
tory right  from  the  Bishop  of  Caithness.  Here  in  summer  the  days  are 


ABREDONIA  469 

very  long,  and  there  is  hardly  any  night.  No  laud  can  be  found  by  those 
sailing  hence  in  a  direct  line  towards  the  North  Pole.  Here  also  is  the 
river  commonly  called  the  Durines.  About  Parve  we  have  spoken  above. 
Thus  far,  enough  has  been  said  of  Strathnaver. 

The  principal  surnames  and  families  that  now  exist  in  Sutherland, 
apart  from  Strathnaver,  Durines,  and  Edderachilis,  are  the  Gordons,  the 
Sutherlands,  the  Monros,  the  Grays,  the  Clanugunn  or  Gunns,  the  Off- 
spring of  Thomas  [Thomsons],  the  Offspring  of  John  [Johnsons]  and  the 
Offspring  of  Paul  [Macphails].  The  oldest  family  is  that  of  the  Earls  of 
Sutherland,  celebrated  from  its  first  origin  down  to  the  present  day— 
always  most  dutiful  to  its  Sovereigns  and  never  justly  condemned  for 
treason,  it  continues.  The  Earls  of  Sutherland  have  their  place  in  Parlia- 
ment among  the  premier  nobles  of  Scotland.  They  have  always  been 
regarded  as  active  men  and  fearless  in  war.  Now  the  earl  has  great 
power  and  authority;  he  is  Sheriff  of  all  Sutherland,  Assint  and 
Strathnaver,  and  Admiral,  not  only  of  these,  but  also  of  certain 
surrounding  districts,  and  that  by  the  gift  of  the  Duke  of  Lennox. 
All  the  gentlemen  who  live  in  his  shire  are  his  vassals  and  beneficiaries. 
Within  his  own  jurisdictions  he  exercises  royal  powers.  Even  Lord 
Mackay,  Baron  Reay,  and  the  Lord  of  Duffus  are  in  dependence  on  him, 
and  Mackay  possesses  Edderachilis  in  his  right,  so  that  he  equals  his 
ancestors  in  authority  and  power. 


ABREDON1JB    Utriusq,    DESCRIPTION 
TOPOGRAPHICA  Autore  J.G. 

Abredonia  Scotise  septentrionalis  Urbs  ad  oram  regionis 
orientalem  posita,  qua  mari  Germanico  alluitur,  eademq^  non 
solum  urbes  reliquas  Scotise  borealis,  sed  et  alias  quaslibet 
ejusdem  latitudinis,  magnitudine  negotiationis,  frequentia, 
venustate  deniq^  facile  superat.  Poll  Elevatio  Abredoniae  57 
gradus :  10  min.  numeratur,  et  quamvis  Geographorum 
vulgus  ei  septentrionalem  multo  magis  adscribant  latitudinem, 
non  alia  tamen,  a  curatissima  observatione  D.  Wilhelmi  Mori 
mathematici  Abredonensis  frequenter  comperta  est.  Ager 
urbi  proximus  frugum  ferax,  pascuis  abundans,  verum  ultra 
mille  passus  quaquaversum  urbem  egredientibus  regio  aspera 
montibus  confragosis,  glebariis  cam  pis,  lapidibus  fere  obruta 
atq^  ericetis  horrida  occurrit.  Ager  interspersus,  his  collatus, 
rarus  ac  infrequens.  Magna  coeli  temperies  aerisq^  dementia, 


470  ABREDONIA 

quibus  fortassis  oppidani  polita  et  sagacia  debent  ingenia 
qualia  alibi  boreali  plaga  et  crasso  aeri  obnoxia  inventu 
difficilia.  unde  et  unica  Abredonia  tot  sapientum,  literatorum 
et  rei  militaris  peritia,  morumc^  comitate  atc^  urbanitate  illus- 
trium  nutrix  non  immerito  censetur.  Nomine  Abredoniae 
duo  insigniuntur  oppida,  vet  us  et  nova ;  haec  ad  Devse  amnis 
ostium  posita  est,  borealem  marginem  propter,  Abredea  seu 
potius  Aberdeva  proprie  dicenda.  Quidam  etiam  antiquo 
nomine,  poetico  potius  credo,  Devanam  dictam  volunt. 
Urbs  altera,  quae  et  vetus,  Abredoniae  nomen  jure  potiore 
vendicat  utpote  qua?  Donae  fluvio  contermina.  Abredonia 
nova,  aut  si  mavis,  Aberdeva  ci vitas  est  regia  ut  vocant,  ac  jure 
municipii  gaudet.  Abredonia  autem  vetus,  cum  nihil  tale 
jactitet,  vicus  seu  pagus  verius  quam  ci  vitas  dicenda  foret. 

Vocem  Abredoniam  idiomate  Hiernico  quidam  decani 
aedificium  significare  asserunt,  falso  tamen,  cum  revera  vox  haec 
composita  nihil  aliud  nisi  Devae  seu  Deae  fluminis  ostium 
lingua  antiqua  Britannica  sonet,  ipsis  enim  Aber  ostium  est 
fluminis.  Deva  seu  Dee  potius,  fluvium  Nigrum  seu  nigredinem 
aquae  propriam  exprimit.  unde  et  nomen  Dee  aliis  fluviis 
Britannicis  Hibernicisq^  cum  nostra  Deva  commune,  haec  de 
nominis  Etymologia  satis  superc^  dicta  sunto,  nee  est  quod 
413.  insulsae  vocis  etymon  inter  radices  linguae  Hebreae  disquirainus 
quod  et  non  ita  pridem  quidam  Urbis  Edinburgenae  tabulae 
descriptionem  subjiciens  factitavit,  ac  nominis  Edinae  rationera 
inter  fontes  Hebraicos  ridicule  investigando  lectori  imponit, 
chartamq^  justae  descriptionis  loco,  nugis  grammaticis  replens; 
de  quo  lectoros  monitos  velim,  quoniam  descriptio  ista  Edin- 
burgi  tabulae  per  me  ante  annos  aliquot  editae  subscripta 
omnium  manibus  hactenus  teritur,  meum^  opus  putatur,  cum 
interim  tricis  non  ego  solus  injuria  afficior,  quinetiam  civitas 
florentissima  Scotiae  prima,  descriptione  indigna,  omnium 
ludibrio  hactenus  expouitur. 

Quinam  antiquitus  Abredoniae  incolae,  aut  quo  saeculo  con- 
dita,  non  constat,  eo  usq^  Romanorum  aquilae  non  advolarunt; 
his  Mernia  et  Grampius  mons  australem  Devae  fluvii  ripam  e 
regione  Abredoniae  attingens  meta  fuerat  ac  Koinani  Imperil 
limes.  De  Abredonia  primo  legitur  temporibus  Gregorii 
Scotorum  regis.  Hie  si  Hectori  Boetio  annalium  scriptori 


ABREDONIA  471 

fides  adhibenda,  anno  Christ!  876  regnum  iniit.  Idem 
Gregorius  Abredoniam  antique  nomine  servato,  ex  pago  urbem 
fecit,  ecclesiamc^  ejus  privilegiis  atc^  praediis  plurimis  donavit. 
Ista  autem  ecclesia  atc^  privilegia  quaenam  fuerunt,  quaeve 
latifundia,  reticuit  aut  certe  nescivit  Boetius.  Haec  auxit 
postea  Wilhelmus  Scot :  Rex.  in  anno  Christi  1165  regnare 
coepit.  Abredoniae  quoque  aliquandiu  commorasse  dicitur, 
ibic^  regium  palatium  et  quale  quale  condidisse,  quod  ipse 
adhuc  vivus  Monachis  Ordinis  S.S.  Trinitatis  in  perpetuum 
diplomate  regio  donavit,  ut  ipsis  in  posterum  Ccenobium  fieret. 
Rex  quoc^  Scotorum  Alexander  ejus  nominis  secundus  qui 
regnum  iniit  anno  Chr.  1&14  Abredoniam  adiens  cum  sorore 
altera  Isabella  ab  Anglia  reversa,  ipse  quoq^  multis  privilegiis 
ornavit,  quod  et  Malcolmus  et  David  Scotorum  reges  ante 
hujus  tempora  fecisse  dicuntur.  Num  vero  alius  quispiam 
Scotorum  Rex  Abredoniae  habitaverit  incertum.  Compertum 
attamen  Abredoniae  privilegia  deinceps  omnes  Scotiae  reges 
ordine  succedentes  nostra  adusc^  tempora  vel  firmasse  vel 
auxisse,  ita  ut  de  hac  merito  dici  possit,  nullum  aliud  Scotiae 
oppidum,  Edinam  imicam  si  exceperis,  juraampliora  vendicare. 
Nee  solum  rei  nauticse  peritia,  quam  frequenter  nostro  saeculo  414. 
exercent,  agrorumc^  proventu  aut  salmonum  captura  ditescunt, 
sed  et  vicecomitatuum  regiuncularumc^  vicinarum  oppidula, 
pagi  ac  vicus  quotquot,  exceptis  Keantorra  et  Innerrurya, 
civium  Abredonensium  nutu  ac  bona  venia  terra  maric^  merca- 
turam  exercere  coguntur ;  his  negotiari  aliter  nefas. 

Prseter  salmonum  utriusc^  fluvii  piscationem,  multa  possidet 
civitas  latifundia,  quae  urbis  libertas  vocantur;  eo  nomine 
ager  Abredonensis  ad  quartum  ab  urbe  lapidem,  occidentem 
versus,  in  Marriam  provinciam,  in  qua  provincia  ipsa  sita  est 
Abredonia,  procurrit.  totum  huic  Scotiae  Reges  donarunt. 

Urbs  varias  hactenus  vices  experta  est,  anno  namq^  1333 
regnante  Davide  Brussio  Scotorum  rege,  triginta  naves 
Anglican  partium  Balliolanarum  auxiliares  noctu  Abredoniam 
appulerunt,  copiisc^  emissis,  urbem  tarn  subito  insciis  oppi- 
danis  sunt  ingressi  ut  maximam  eorum  partem  trucidarent. 
Urbem  deinde  incendio  cremarunt,  quae  sex  postea  diebus 
integris,  lugubre  intuentibus  spectaculum,  confiagravit,  Nihi- 
lominus  templa  atc^  aedificia  sacra,  collocatis  praesidiis  servata 


472  ABREDONIA 

ruinam  evaserunt.      Urbs  denuo  instaurata  Abredonia  nova 
deinceps  vocari  coepit. 

Nostra  aetate,  flagrante  in  Scotia  belli  civilis  aestu,  huic 
supra  reliquas  urbes  Scotiae  damna,  caedes,  rapinae,  clades, 
incendia  multo  frequentius  ac  majora  illata  fuere.  Praesidia 
militum  hie  plerumc^  diuturna,  ac  cuicunc^  pro  tempore 
viciniae  obtigit  imperium  eidem  tributa  persolvere  ac  militi- 
bus  annonam  ac  stipendia  dare  pro  victoris  arbitrio  jussa, 
ac  dum  victori  static  aliquandiu,  insolentiae  ac  barbaroruni 
militum  licentiae  non  raro  praeda  fuit ;  unde  urbem  non  ita 
pridem  opulentam  tristis  exercuit  inopia  atc^  oppidani  in- 
geniosissimi  diuturnis  atc^  indignis  rapinis  affecti  fere  languere. 
Milites  Montrossiani,  advenae  pleriq^,  non  parvam  urbi  cladeni, 
multis  oppidanorum  caesis,  direptac^  etiam  urbe,  intulere  anno 
1644.  Dein  Huntilaeus  a  presidiariis  Abredonensibus  in  ejus 
castranoctu  irrumpentibus  lacessitus,  horum  vestigiis  inhserens 
415.  postridie  urbem  obsidione  subitanea  ibidemq^  victores  jam 
fugaces  clausit,  ac  conjecto  in  tecta  incendio  post  paucarum 
horarum  urbis  expugnatione  moram  absumptam,  urbe  vi 
potitus  Huntilaeus  militem  praesidiarium  qui  csedem  evaserat, 
ornnem  captivum  cepit.  Urbs  capta  militi  Huntilaeano  vix 
unius  horae  spatio  praeda  fuit  cum  receptui  signum  daretur, 
Incendium  extinctum  nullo  oppidanorum  trucidato,  pleris^ 
etiam  suppellectile  integra  asservata.  Non  tamen  adeo 
nocuere  urbi  clades  a  Montrossio  illata,  vel  Huntilaei  incendia 
in  urbem  jacta;  levia  haec  si  cum  viginti  trium  annorum  malis 
diuturnis  conferantur,  quibus  hactenus  oppressa  subsedit. 

Illustrem  reddidit  Rob.  Brussius  Scot.  Rex,  dum  non  procul 
Abredonia  anno  Chr.  1306  ex  Anglia  redux  feliciter  primum 
hostes  profligavit.  Saeculo  superiore,  anno  1571  puta,  Achin- 
dunius  Comarcha  Huntilaei  frater  Baronem  Forbesium  cum 
sua  clientela  devicit,  nullo  oppidanorum  sequi  coacto,  quod 
Huntilaei  odio  impulsus  splendide  mentitur  Buchananus.  In  via 
qua  aditur  Deae  fluminis  pons,  cippus  e  lapide  rudi  prominens 
pugnae  nomen  dedit.  fcederatorum  quoc^  strage  ager  huic  lapidi 
conterminus  sanguine  denuo  imbutus  anno  supra  memorato, 
dum  oppidani  arma  capessere  cogerentur,  tali  obsequio  ac  suo 
sanguine  foederatorum  irae  litaturi,  quibus  anno  1639  sub 
vexillis  Jacobi  Gordoni  Abojnii  Comitis  sponte  semet  primo 


ABREDONIA  473 

portum  Stanhavenum  prope,  delude  ad  pontem  Devse  fluminis, 
quatridui  spatio  bis  objecerant.  Utraq,  tamen  pugna  a  Mon- 
trossio,  sane  tempore  foederatarum  partium  legato,  una  cum 
duce  primo  fusi,  deinde  Devae  fluminis  porta  vi  perfracta, 
urbem  victori  relinquere  coacti. 

Priscis  quoc^  temporibus  oppidanorum  virtus  bellica  cele- 
bratur  ad  Harlasi  praecipue  pugnam  cruentam  anno  Chr. 
1411.  Marrio  duce  felicius  quam  hoc  saeculo  dimicarunt, 
amisso  namc^  Urbis  praefecto  Roberto  Davisono  milite  strenuo 
ac  forti,  victorias  participes  signis  erectis  in  urbem  rediere. 
nostra  etiam  aetate  vexillum  istud  ostentabatur,  non  ante  in- 
felicem  cum  Montrossio  congressum  ultimum  amissum. 

Nee  paucos  literis  vel  armis,  artibusve  aliis  celebres  sibi  ven- 
dicat  Abredonia,  quorum  etiam  aliqui  natales  urbi  debent. 
Inter  hos  insigniores  ac  magni  nominis  viri  D.  Johannes 
Forbesius  a  Corse  Theol.  1).  ac  Professor,  D.  Gulyelmus 
Forbesius  Abredonensis  natione,  Edinburgensis  Episcopus.  D. 
Robertus  Baronius  S.  S.  Theologiae  quondam  Doctor  ac  Abre- 
doniae  professor  publicus,  D.  Guilielmus  Leslseus  Collegii 
regii  olim  Gymnasiarcha  doctissimus,  D.  Al.  Scrogaeus  veteris 
Abredoniae  nuper  ecclesiastes,  D.  Jacobus  Sibbaldus  eccle- 
siastes  quondam  Abredonensis  ac  postea  Dublinensis,  D. 
Robertus  Hovasus  theologus  Andreapoli  ante  annos  aliquot 
in  Academia  Mariana  P.  Professor,  D.  Alexander  Rosseus 
theologus,  historicus  ac  poeta,  Abredoniae  natus  vixit,  ac 
diem  suum  extremum  in  Anglia  clausit.  Juriconsulti  vero  cele- 
brantur  D.  Thomas  Nicolsonus  J.  C.  doctissimus,  D.  Johannes 
Skenus  Rotulorum  custos,  ut  vocant,  regni  Scotiae  quondam 
supremus,  D.  Jacobus  Robertsonus  non  ita  pridem  Burdigalse 
apud  Gallos  J.  V.  D.  ac  Professor  publicus,  Robertus  Burnetus 
a  Crimond  in  suprema  regni  Curia  Juridicus  Senator  doctis- 
simus, Jacobus  Forbesius  a  Corsindae  J.  V.  D.  qui  in  Gallia 
degit,  Alexander  Irwinus  a  Lenturke  Juriconsultus  olim 
eximiae  eruditionis,  D.  Wilhelmus  Andersonus  I.ctus  Theolo- 
gus et  Mathematicus. 

Humaniorum  literarum  vel  Philosophies  aut  Historiae  Mathe- 
seosve  notitia  insignes  D.  Johannes  Leslasus  saeculo  proxime 
elapso  Episcopus  Rossensis,  historicus,  David  Wedderburnus 
Grammaticus  Abredonensis,  Thomas  Rhsedus  regi  serenissimo 


474  ABREDONIA 

Jacobo  sexto  ab  Epistolis  Latinis,  D.  Gilbertus  Grains 
Academiae  Marescallanae  Primarius  Philosophiae  Professor,  D. 
Patricius  Graius  mathematicus,  D.  Gulyelmus  Graius  in 
Academia  Arausicana  apud  Gallos  Philosophise  quondam  Pro- 
fessor ac  M.D.,  D.  Johannes  Johnstonus  quondam  Andreapoli 
Theologise  Professor,  Alexander  Andersonus  mathematicus 
Abredonensis  clarissimus,  D.  Robertus  Gordonus  a  Straloch 
mathematicus,  historicus,  poeta,  ac  geographus. 

Medici  vero  D.  Duncanus  Liddelius  qui  et  Theologus,  Philo- 
sophus,  et  Mathematicus  celeberrimus,  D.  Jacobus  Cargillus, 
'417.  D.  Gilbertus  Jacchaeus  Philosophiae  in  Academia  Lugduno- 
Batava  non  diu  abhinc  Professor,  D.  Arcturus  Johnstonus 
Medicus  regius  poetarum  Scotorum  sui  saeculi  facile  princeps, 
D.  Gulyelmus  Johnstonus  olim  in  Academia  Marescallana 
Matheseos  professor,  D.  Gulyelmus  Gordonus  Medicinae  in 
Collegio  regio  Abredonensi  professor,  D.  D.  Patricius  et 
Robertus  Dunaei  medici  Abredonenses,  D.  Alexander  Rhedus 
qui  et  Londini  dudum  artis  Chirurgicae  professor  publicus,  D. 
Tho.  Burnetus  apud  Anglos  medicus,  1).  Gulielmus  Davisonus 
Regis  Polon.  Medicus. 

Militia  terra  marive  claros  jactitat  Keros,  Noreos,  Camer- 
arium  et  Johnstonum  tribunes  militum,  Strathquhanam 
navarchum  egregium,  equestri  ordine  (ob  rem  strenue  gestam) 
a  serenissimo  Principe  Carolo  n.  insignitum ;  his  omnibus 
adjungere  licebit  Davidem  Andersonum  mechanicum  egregium, 
ac  Georgium  Jamesonum  Pictorem  regium,  qui  primus  mor- 
talium,  artem  pictoriam  Abredoniam  invexit. 

Habet  et  Abredonia  tribus  aliquot  gentiles  sibi  proprias 
longa  aevorum  serie  claras,  qui  majorum  cognomina,  titulos  ac 
insignia  referunt,  saepe  etiam  majorum  munia  obeunt  atc^  in 
his  gens  Cameraria,  Menezii,  etiam  Culleni,  Colinsoni,  Lausoni, 
Graii,  Rutherfordii  et  Leslaei  illustres  notantur :  postquam 
oppidum  negotiatione  crebra  ac  felici  pariter  excrevit,  accessere 
et  alii  complures  fatniliis  non  obscuris  oriundi,  qui  civitatc 
donati  posteros  opulentos  Abredoniae  reliquere. 

Urbs  antiqua  primitus  ad  marginem  aestuarii  posita  fuisse 
videtur,  ac  vix  spatium  illud  totum  occupasse  quod  hodk- 
viridarium  suburbium  nominatur;  sunt  ejus  rei  testes  S.  S. 
Trinitatis  Caenobium  olim  Wilhelmi  regis  ut  asseritur  pala- 


ABREDON1A  475 

tium  in  ipsa  ripse  crepidine  situm,  ostenduntur  etiam  veteris 
praetorii  ruinae  ad  posticam  horti  aedium  amplissimarum 
Comarchae  de  Pitfodells.  Tractu  temporis  tumulos  quosdam 
vicinos  oppidani  aedificiis  complevisse  videntur  pedetentim  ; 
nostra  aetate  in  his  collibus  maxima  atc^  insignior  urbis  pars 
posita  cernitur.  Tres  omnino  numero,  inter  quos  ad  septen- 
trionalem  urbis  plagam  maxime  eminet  collis  seu  monticulus 
furcae  nomine  dictus,  nomine  vero  magis  usitato  tumulus  seu 
mons  venti  molaris  ob  venti  molam  hujus  summitati  imposi- 
tam,  alter  a  castello  seu  arce  illic  quondam  sita  nomen 
desumit.  Altissimus  a  Stffi  Catherinae  sacello  nomen  trahit.  hos 
urbis  praecipua  pars  seu  verius  ipsa  urbs  interjacet.  Singulorum 
clivi  plateas  obambulantibus  perceptu  difficiles,  in  suburbio  418. 
vero  degentibus  aut  aliunde  urbem  accedentibus  satis  prominere 
reperiuntur,  Angiportus  vici  ac  plataeag  quotquot  nulla  praevia 
designatione  aut  symmetriae  ratione  habita  ad-invicem  con- 
junctae  [sic]  facile  dignoscuntur ;  aedificia  ex  lapide  et  calce  ex- 
tructa  tectis  fastigiatis  tegulis  lapideis  co-operta,tristega  plerac^ 
nee  pauca  in  quatuor  vel  plurium  contignationum  altitudinem 
consurgunt ;  plateae  silice  aut  saxo  durissimo  silicem  referente 
stratae;  habitacula  exterius  interfuse^  admodum  venusta,  et  qua 
(contiguos  plerunc^  hortos  aut  pomaria  ostentant,  singulis 
hortis  proprias  habent  posticas)  vicos  prospectant  porticibus 
ligneis  decorata.  Obsita  quoc^  arboribus  omnigenis  regioni 
propriis,  ut  et  tota  urbs  nemoris  speciem  appropinquantibus 
prae  se  ferat.  Area  inequalis,  in  qua  posita  est  urbs,  vallorum 
fossarumq^  ac  propugnaculorum  hujus  aetatis  usitatorum  feli- 
citer  ac  magno  oppidanorum  commodo  incapacem  reddit.  bis 
tamen  omnino  aggeribus  belli  civilis  incendio  aestuante  claudi 
frustra  tentata,  vix  absoluta,  expugnantium  jussu  bis  solo 
aequata. 

Urbi  ad  occidentem,  tumulus  seu  colliculus  conterminus 
visendum  semet  offert  planus  idem  ac  gramineus,  feminamm 
corrupte  dictus  sed  verius  lanaepolarum  mons  dicendus,  quod 
olim  lana  venalis  temporibus  statutis  a  finitimis  exponeretur; 
ex  ipsius  montis  radicibus  scatet  fons  perennis  aquae,  ejusdemc^ 
altera  scaturigo  in  medio  praeterfluentis  ad  radices  montis 
torrentis  alveo  ebullit,  ipsa  tamen  colore  ac  sapore  facile  a 
torrente  distinguitur,  font  is  Spadani  seu  Spaa  appellative  ac 


476  ABREDONIA 

mutuato  nomine  Celebris,  ex  eo  dictum  sic  opinor  quod  et  sapore 
et  qualitatibus  referat  aquam  Spadanam  in  Episcopatu  Leodi- 
ensi,  octo  leucis  a  Tungrorum  civitate  dissitam.  Noster  tamen 
ab  isto  celebri  Tungrorum  fonte  in  quibusdam  absimilis,  aqua 
namc^  tactu  friget,  Leodiensis  vero  tacta  calida;  cetera  si  Plinio 
credamus,  habent  communia,  qui  de  isto  Nat.  Hist.  lib.  31. 
cap.  2.  scribens  haec  habet :  Tungri  civitas  fontem  habet  in- 
signem  plurimis  bullis  stillantem  ferruginaei  saporis  quod 
ipsum  non  nisi  in  fine  potus  intelligitur;  purgat  hie  corpora, 
febres  tertianas  discutit,  calculorumq^  vitia ;  D.  Gulielmus 
Barclaius  Medicus  Aberdonen.  nostra  aetate  tractatum  de 
aqua  Spadana  Abredonensi  edidit ;  plura  qui  scire  volet,  libel- 
419-  lum  istum  consulat.  Planities  quadrata  huic  proxima  theatri 
vices  olim  supplebat,  in  hortum  suburbanum  amcenum  mutata 
sumptu  pictoris  ingeniossissimi  Geo.  Jamesoni,  qui  et  ibidem 
Musaeum  manu  propria  depictum  exstrui  curavit. 

Platea  quae  et  furcaria  dicitur,  ab  occidente,  solo  uliginoso 
palustri  spatioso  premitur,  lacum  vocant,  stagnum  seu  eluvies 
verius.  Influit  torrens  aggeribus  conclusus  at<^  ambit  eluviemq^ 
reddit.  Nee  alia  aquaeductus  ratio  antiquitus  inventa  qui 
aquam  posticis  ac  tribus  molis  subministraret.  Cur  autem 
platea  vicina  a  furca  nomeri  acceperit,  non  satis  constat,  nisi 
fortassis  ob  furcae  cujusdam  hactenus  sublatae  viciniam,  aut  quia 
fures  capite  damnati  hac  ad  patibulum  deducebantur,  hodie 
tamen  latrones  per  portam  ipsorum  nomine  insignem  extra 
urbem  ad  supplicia  trahuntur. 

Sequitur  platea  lata,  quas  ab  insigni  olim  latitudine  nomen 
sumpsit,  cum  haec  cum  angiportu  seu  vico  parallelo  unam  dun- 
taxat  plateam  conficerent;  nunc  aedificiorum  longo  ordine  inter- 
jecto  distinguuntur,  cur  autem  angiportus  iste  hospitum  aut 
verius  1  emu  rum,  ambiguo  vocabulo,  nomen  acceperit,  nemo 
hactenus  rationem  novit. 

In  platea  lata  templum  Franciscanorum  notatu  dignum, 
quod  et  Academiam  Mareschallanam  a  platea  dividit,  e  lapide 
secto  exstructum,  opus  Gavini  Dumbari  Episcopi  Abredonen. 
sumptibus  absolutuni  circiter  annum  Christi  1500,  ac  Francis- 
canorum collegio  contiguo  donatum ;  Anno  1560  aegre  servatum 
et  nisi  Januarii  23  ejusdem  anni  fratres  Franciscan!  titulo  ac 
jure  suo  cedentes,  instrumento  publico  templum  caenobium 


ABREDONIA  477 

hortosq^  suos  oppidanis  donassent,  certo  certius  fatum  turn 
temporis  caenobiis  ac  basilicis  commune  subiisset,  sed  vetuere 
oppidani,  atq^  ab  his  senatusconsulto  cautum  ut  postea  im- 
pensa  ipsorum  sarta  tecta  servaretur  basilica;  vastam  deinceps 
ac  vetustate  pjene  collapsam  anno  1634  Abredonenses  reparare 
aggressi  opus  longius  provexerant.  cui  munificentia  non  defuit 
D.  Wilhelmus  Guild  ecclesiastes  Abredonensis  qui  multas 
easc^  amplas  templi  fenestras  vitro  clausit.  annis  vero  sequenti- 
bus,  dum  cuncta  licerent,  a  militibus  praesidiariis  occupatum.  420. 
excubiis  continuis  statio  fuit.  Coenobium  ipsum  Abredonenses 
anno  1593,  Septembris  4to  dono  dederunt,  ea  tamen  lege  ut 
Academiam  Philosophicam  conventus  loco  subrogaretGeorgius 
Kaethus  Illustrissimus  Mareschallanus  Comes,  nee  abnuit 
Marescallus  qui  vel  eodem  anno  Academiam  istam  ejusq^  jura 
diplomate  Regis  serenissimi  Jac  vitl  sancita  rataq^  instituit 
ac  fratrum  Carmelitarum  ac  Dominicanorum  Abredonensium 
latifundiis  redditis,  ut  ipsa  in  posterum  Professoribus  stipendia 
fierent,  nonnihil  etiam  ex  re  sua  familiari  addidit,  postea 
vero  nobilium  civium  ac  eruditorum  quorundam  liberalitate, 
Academiae  census  in  immensum  crevit.  Inter  hos  praecipui 
qui  praediis,  latifundiis,  pecuniave  hoc  Athseneum  locupletarunt 
non  silentio  praetereundi.  Anno  1630  D.  Alexander  Irvinus  a 
Drum  eques  auratus  ac  gentis  Irvinse  phylarcha,  D.  Thomas 
Cromby  a  Kemney  eques  auratus  natione  Abredonensis,  Jac. 
Cargillus  medicus,  Jo.  Johnstonus,  theologus,  Duncanus 
Liddelius  medicus,  Al.  Rhaedus  medicus,  G.  Guild,  Al. 
Rossaeus,  Patricius  Coplandus,  David  Chamberlan.  Tho. 
Rhaedus  Bibliothecam  dono  dedit  ac  Bibliothecario  stipen- 
dium  addidit,  quae  postea  ab  aliis,  multis  voluminibus  d.d.  ac 
instrumentis  mathematicis  aucta. 

Claruere  hactenus  in  hac  Academia  Rob.  Hovaeus,  Gulielmus 
Forbesius,  Gilbertus  Graius,  Patricius  Dunaeus  Gymnasiarchae, 
Rob.  Baronius  magni  nominis  theologus,  Wilhelmus  John- 
stonus Matheseos  professor  illustris,  de  quibus  supra.  Distincta 
hsec  primitus  ab  Universitate  Abredonensi  fuerat  ac  Scola 
Philosophica  verius  dicenda.  Clarissimus  Rex  Carolus  I  anno 
1641  Universitati  adjunxit,  atq.  utrunq^  Collegium  Universitatis 
Carolinae  nomine  deinceps  vocari  jussit.  Academia  haec  quam 
Mareschallanus  suo  etiam  nomine  primitus  Mareschallanam 


478  ABREDONIA 

vncavit  sex  onmino  pnrter  Uibliotliecarium  numeral  Professores 
seu  Didascalos,  Theologum,  Mathemalicuin,  Philosophise  Lec- 
.  lores  Ires,   e   quorum  numero   Gymnasiarcha   Graecae    linguae 
unus,  ac  humaniorum  lilerarum  Professor  alius. 

Plaleam  lalam  excipil  caslelli,  quae  per  vicum  vulgo  olilo- 
rium  diclum  adilur.  Area  quadrala  heleromekes  100  passuum 
lalitudine  el  ducenl.  pass,  longiludine,  nee  parem,  quod  scio, 
oslendil  Scolia.  Nundinis  hebdomariis,  e  vicinia  confluenlibus 
spalium  salis  amplum  praebel.  plateae  hujus  angulum  unum 
occupal  atc^  absumil  praelorium  anno  1191  conditum,  non  ila 
pridem  turri  ac  campanili  pinnalo  decoralum  publicis  oppi- 
danorum  ac  vicecomilalus.  Comilis  diriae  habenl  el  hie 
archivum  al<^  Senalum  oppidani,  ipsorum  quo<^  el  praeloris 
juridicendo  tribunal,  hie  quoc^  career  el  ergastulum.  Inclaruil 
olim  dicaslerium  hoc  Illuslrissimae  Mariae  Scotorum  Regius 
praesentia,  quae  Hunlilaeo  ad  Corrichaeam  profligalo,  e  fenestra 
praetorii  Abredoneii.  leslis  oculala  speclabunda  inlerfuil  nee 
sine  gemilu  dum  nobilissimus  juvenis  Joh.  Gordonius  Comilis 
Hunllaei  ea  lempeslale  anle  biduum  caesi  filius  caplivus 
Moravi  jussu,  invila  Regina  nee  lamen  prohibere  ausa,  capile 
oblruncalus  pleclerelur.  Inler  reliqua  aedificia  maxime 
eminenl  e  regione  praelorii  sedes  amplae  Comilis  Mareschalli  ac 
Toparchae  de  Pilfoddellis.  In  hac  quoc^  plalea  duae  cruces,  ul 
vocanl,  posilae  quarum  allissima  praelorio  proxima  Crux  car- 
naria  dici  solel  quia  esl  forum  carnarium  huic  vicinum  ;  ibi 
quoque  edicla  regia,  senalus  consulla  promulgare,  alc^  omnia 
solennia  publica  feslis  diebus  peragere  solenl  oppidani.  Crux 
allera  minor  piscaria,  ubi  quolidie  esl  forum  piscarium.  Ad 
seplenlrionale  hujus  plaleae  latus  inler  horlorum  areas  obscura 
quaedam  alq^  eadem  vepribus  dumisq^  obrula  cernilur  aedificii 
ruina  Templariorum  fralrum  quondam;  receplum  de  hoc  nihil 
ulterius  conslal,  hodie  enim  fere  periere  ruinae.  Mons  vicinus 
Castello  duabus  adilur  porlis,  lumulus  arenaceus,  cacumine 
piano,  plaleam  caslelli  non  mullo  alliludine  superanle,  lalere 
qua  liltori  vicinus  declivi  admodum,  ul  el  horli  plataea1 
lillori  imminenles.  Colliculus  aller  conliguus  fere  mons 
decollalorius  diclus,  ex  eo  quod  in  semila  angusla  quiv  utrius^ 
monlis  clivum  inlerjacet,  homicida?  nonnunquam  capile  poenas 
luanl.  Collis  ulerc^  proeul  inluenlibus  mons  conlinuus  esse 


ABREDONIA  479 

creditur.  Prisci  Scotorum  Rcges  in  hoc  arcem  posuere,  cui 
usui  nescio,  quum  nullibi  mons  hie  vel  alte  effossus  ullam  aqua* 
jugis  spem  ostendat,  quod  verum  esse  Angli  nuper  praesidiarii 
comperti  sunt.  Arx  post  aliquot  saecula  ab  oppidanis  capta, 
Anglis  turn  prassidiariis  caesis  expulsisve,  ac  ne  in  posterum  pre- 
sidii  jugo  iterum  graverentur,  oppidani  solo  sequarunt,  ejusq^ 
loco  sacellum  Niniano  sacrum,  prout  istorum  temporum  fere- 
bat  relligio,  extruxere,  hoc  modo  montem  istum  sacro  usui 
dicatum  in  profanes  usus  postea  convertere  nefas  futurum 
existimantes.  extat  adhuc  sacellum  et  vacuum  istud,  et  qua 
mare  littoraq^  vicina  prospectat,  pharos  olim  additus  qui  noctu 
portum  intrantibus  dux  ac  Cynosura  foret.  At  nocturnum 
istud  lumen  ante  nostra  tempora  omissum  at<^  exstinctum. 
Anno  1654  Ninianus  nulli  suo  monti  praesidio  fuit,  quominus 
ipse  atc^  Integra  sacelli  area,  vallo  atc^  aggere  e  lapide  et  calce 
in  altum  exsedificato  denuo  ab  Anglis  elauderetur.  Recepta- 
culum  autem  istud  vix  integro  quinquennio  permansit,  cum 
jussu  viri  Illustrissimi  Geo:  Ducis  Albemarlii  anno  1659 
exeunte  summo  oppidanorum  gaudio  ac  commodo  evocatis 
praesidiariis  Anglis  dirutum. 

E  platea  eastelli  digredientibus  cothonem  versus,  transitur 
scacarii  vicus,  sic  olim  dictus  quod  Quaestores  ac  fisci  regii  Pro- 
curatores  hie  Cameram  habuerunt  multis  abhinc  sseculis  trans- 
latam  ;  et  fidem  faciunt  fortasse  numismata  quaedam  argentea 
Abredoniae  olim  exeusa,  quae  inscriptionem  Urbs  Aberdee 
altera  facie  lectori  ostendunt,  quod  reliquum  est,  vici  illud 
nomen  hactenus  exolevit. 

Duse  restant  plateae  declives  quag  per  portas  totidem  e  platea 
lata  ad  templum  magnum  retro  deducunt,  harum  una  vicus 
templi  superior,  altera  vicus  templi  inferior  vocatur.  Basilica 
Nicolaum  olim  patronum  habuit,  e  lapide  secto  quadrato  con- 
dita,  plumbeo  lamine  contecta.  Campanile  pyramidis  seu 
obelisci  formani  referens  in  altum  elevatur.  id  quoc^  plumbeo  4%8. 
lamine  opertum  humilem  templi  situm  compensat:  nullum  aliud 
in  Scotia  venustius,  et  quamvis  quirigentis  retro  annis  condita, 
oninia  nitida,  adeo  sarte  tecta,  ut  et  noviter  asdificata  haec 
basilica  credi  possit.  In  tria  templa  olim  dividebatur,  horum 
maximum  vetus,  alterum  novum,  tertium  fornicatum.  Dominae 
Misericordiae  fornix  tune  et  adhue  propterea  nuncupatum. 


480  ABREDONIA 

Templi  novi  partem  orientalem  sustinet :  pavimentum  ex 
ccemiterii  clivo  efFossum,  ostiorum  limina  ipsius  piano  aequat, 
nee  fornicis  altitudine  superioris  templi  pavimentum  nisi 
orientem  versus  gradibus  tribus  attollitur  usc^,  ita  fabrefactis 
ut  in  majus  templi  cedant  ornamentum.  Templum  utrunc^ 
superius  duplici  columnarum  lapidearum  ordine  suffultum, 
structura  utrinc^  alata  conclusum  asseribus  querneis  laquear 
caelatum  habet.  Vetus  illud  ab  oppidanis  Anno  1060  aedificari 
coeptum,  paulatim  auctum,  donariiscj^  ditatum.  Nolae  magni 
ponderis  tres  tribus  tonis  continuis  saepius  repetitis  semihoras 
dividunt ;  harum  duae  ut  et  horologium  automatum,  donum 
fuere  Gulielmi  Leith  de  Barns  Urbis  Praefecti  anno  1313.  In 
utraq^  Ecclesia  monumenta  ac  sarcophagia  propria  habent 
oppidanorum  familiae  illustres :  nobiles  quoq^  finitimi  quidam, 
e  quorum  numero  Baro  Forbesius  gentis  Forbesiae  phylarcha, 
Irwinus  de  Drum  eques  auratus,  Menezius  de  Pitfoddells ;  hie 
quoque  sepultus  jacet  Duncanus  Liddelius  medicus,  monumento 
lamine  aereo  obducto,  epitaphio  tanti  viri  meritis  non  majore, 
aeri  inciso.  Templum  novum  anno  1478  aedificari  demum 
coeptitatum  anno  1493  oppidanorum  impensis  absolutum ; 
anno  1560  parum  abfuit  quin  dirueretur ;  ni  oppidani  armis 
tutassent  ac  conatui  obstitissent;  nostro  tempore  templum  forni- 
catum  lignis,  tignis,  plumbo,  atque  hujusmodi  suppellectili 
Ecclesiae  custodiae  inservit.  Dum  Hierarchia  Papalis  Abredonia 
pelleretur,  suppellex  utriusc^  templi  hastae  subjecta,  et  142 
libris  Scoticis  aestimata  ac  Quaestori  Patricio  Menezio  nomine 
tradita ;  hie  iisco  inferre  jussus,  oppidanis  quibusdam  ne  id 
Heret  frustra  reclamantibus  ac  publico  instrumento  anno  1562 
Januarii  26  obtestantibus. 

424.  Postea  vero  Maii  8  ejusdem  anni  statutum  ut  pecunia  haec 
in  usus  publicos  insumeretur.  Vigente  Papatu,  numerabantur 
in  his  tribus  templis  triginta  altaria  distinctis  Divis,  ut  in 
Papatu  mos  est,  dicata,  singulis  beneficia  addita;  nomina 
percurrere,  cum  vel.  hodie  ne  vel  minima  supersunt  vestigia, 
multis  offendiculo,  plerisq^  taedio  futurum  existimo.  Utrunc^ 
templum  pariete  integerrimo  distinctum  podiis,  sellis,  sub- 
selliis  omni  modo  pariter  ac  elegantibus  illignis  plerunq, 
inauratis  nitet.  totum  deniq^  aedificium  area  seu  coemiterio 
fraxinis  multis  procerisc^  obsito  clauditur ;  coemiterio  contigua 


ABREDONIA  481 

scola  musica,  huic  proxima  grammaticalis.  Didascalorum 
stipendia  annua  praeter  didactrum  persolvit  civis.  P.  Dunnseus 
Med.  Academic  Marescal:  nuper  gymnasiarcha,  prsedium  suum 
suburbanum  de  Ferrihill  Scolae  granimaticali  donavit  ut  in 
posterum  ejus  proven tibus  annuls  quatuor  hypodidascali  in 
Scola  grammaticali  alerentur.  Ludo  literario  proximum  Domi- 
nicanorum  sequitur  Collegium ;  hujus  ambitus  quicquid  spatii 
Scolam  grammaticalem  et  collem  lanaepolarum,  lacum  adusc^ 
interjacet,  muro  praealto  sed  ut  plurimum  semidiruto  inclusus 
adhuc  cernitur.  Coenobium  illud  Januarii  4.  1560  adeo  operose 
e  fundamentis  erutum  una  cum  templo,  ut  ne  vel  minimum 
supersit  vestigium.  Civium  quorundam  habitacula  conspicua 
satis  ;  nihilominus  e  macerie  excrevere. 

Vico  interjecto,  templi  novi  frontispicio  orientali  adstat 
gerontotrophium  civibus  Abredonensibus  pauperie  afflictis 
alendis  destinatum  :  olim  sacellum  D.  Thomae  sacrum,  huic  ad 
orientem  vicinum  aliud  sumptibus  propriis  Tinctores  Abredon- 
enses  etiam  nuperrime  instituere.  Mons  qui  Catharinae  dicitur 
aedificiis,  hortis,  ac  platea  continua  circumseptus  plateas  vicinas 
obambulantibus  semet  non  ostendit,  cujus  utpote  cacumen  ista 
intra  urbem  monti  vicina  exaequent,  toti  tamen  suburbio  quod 
Viridarium  appellatur  collis  hie  imminet,  ac  basilicam  Nicolai, 
Devse  aestuarium,  Torrii  vicum,  oram  maritimam,  montes 
campos  agrumq^  Abredonen.  e  regione  urbis  occidentali  ac 
boreali  superadstantibus  aperit.  Nomen  dedit  ei  sacellum 
Santae  Catharinae  olim  sacrum  montis  vertici  impositum  at<^ 
anno  1242  impensis  Conestabuli  Abredonensis  conditum. 
Quod  vero  fundatori  nomen,  non  invenio. 

Torrens  Convallis  nomine  urbem  ad  occidentem  praeterla-  j£5. 
bitur;  hujus  marginem,  prope  ponticulum  lapideum  qua  tor- 
rens  fluvium  Devam  influit,  Carmelitse  fratres  olim  occupabant 
quorum  templum  atc^  aedificia  omnia  uno  eodemq^  die  quo 
reliqua  Ccenobia  Abredon.  periere,  funditus  deleta;  fornix 
unicus  residuus  fratrum  dictus  Abredoniae  angulum  australem 
terminat. 

Templum  S.S.  Trinitatis  in  ipsa  aestuarii  ripa  positum,  huic 
contiguum  opificum  Aberdonensium  ptochodochium  a  Gulielmo 
Rege  aedificatum  ac  postea  fratribus  Ordinis  S.  Trinitatis 
donatum,  qui  multis  autehac  annis  abacti ;  templum  col- 

VOL.  n.  2H 


482  ABREDONIA 

lapsum,  ac  aedes  viciriae  anno  1630  restaurari  coeptae  Opificum 
Abredonensium  ac  D.  Guil.  Guild  impensis  qui  et  huic 
ecclesiae  salarium  Catechistae  dicavit. 

Nonnullis  interpositis  habitaculis  occurrit  Cothon  seu  pila  e 
lapide  secto  quadrato  condita  1526  prefecto  Gilberto  Menezio 
de  Findon,  aucta  ac  reparata  postea  anno  1562.  pretium  sup- 
pellectilis  S.  Nicolai  Ecclesise  erga  id  impendit  Quaestor  P. 
Menezius,  consciis  oppidanis.  Anno  1634  telonium  supra 
pilam  inaedificatum.  exinde  versus  vicum  de  Futtye  per  quin- 
gentos  passus  decurrit  vicoq^  adjungitur,  plurium  et  fuerat 
annorum  ac  ssepius  interruptum  opus  :  e  inacerie  arena  congesta 
magno  labore  anno  demum  1659  peractus  agger,  quo  factum 
ut  campus  magnus  maris  aestui  semper  antea  obnoxius  atq^ 
mari  aestuanti  receptaculum,  hactenus,  dum  arcetur  mare, 
frugum  olerum<k  factus  sit  feracissimus. 

Futty  vicus  cothonem  terminat  atc^  per  400  passus  austrum 
versus  Devae  fluminis  ripam  usq^  procurrit:  nautis  et  piscatoribus 
habitaculum ;  juxta  vicum  navale.  Templum  quoq^  sibi  pro- 
prium  habet  quod  et  Abredonensium  jussu  anno  1498  condi- 
tum  dementis  sacellum  vocatum.  Templi  hujus  ccemiterium 
muro  cinxit  non  ita  pridem  civis  quidam  Abredonensis.  Huic 
vico  proxima  Jemborum  statio.  Ulterius  progredientibus  ad 
promontorium  arenaceum  dictum,visitur  munimentum  quoddam 
cameratum  anno  1513  conditum  ut  Devae  ostio  e  propinquo 
hostiles  mari  incursus  prohiberentur,  tormentis  aeneis  ibidem 
collocatis,  aut  saltern  ut  ex  hoc  tanquam  ex  specula  piratarum 
conatus  observarentur.  opus  hoc  rude  absolverunt  Abredon- 
enses  anno  1542.  eodemq^  anno  Devae  ostium  vinculis  ac 
426.  repagulis  ferreis  ligneisc^  aquae  injectis  ipsorum  arbitrio 
patefactum  clausumc^;  E  regione  propugnaculi  ex  adversa  fluvii 
ripa,  specula  loco  edito  (cujus  etiamnum  visuntur  vestigia.) 
imposita;  ibi  cam  pan  a ;  assiduusq^  custos  aderat,  qui  quoties 
navigia  deprehenderet,  signum  nola  daret,  sed  exoleta  haec, 
ipsumq^  propugnaculum  non  nisi  magna  civium  trepidatione, 
dum  hostiles  aut  piratarum  subitanei  metuuntur  incursus 
praesidiariis  ex  oppidanis  dilectis,  statio  usurpatur.  Ultra 
fluminis  Devae  ostium  ad  austrum,  promontorium  per  mille 
passus  in  mare  Germanicum  extenditur.  Grampii  mentis 
terminus  orientalis,  qui  hinc  Glascuam  urbeni  versus,  multis  ac 


ABREDONIA  483 

magnis    montium,    silvarum    et    collium     vagis   ac    prseruptis 
anfractibus  excurrens  Scotiam  transversam  secat. 

Navigiis  portum  subeuntibus  a  pulvino  arenaceo  fluminis 
ostio  objecto  non  leve  periculum,  nee  nisi  naucleris  peritis  et 
qui  syrtes  norunt,  secundo  etiam  aestu,  tuto  intratur  portus ; 
alioquin  multorum  navigiorum  capax.  Naves  praesidiariae  atq^ 
onerariag  maximse  Devae  fluminis  alveo  ad  vicum  Torry  in 
anchoris  stant :  minores  aliae  usc^  ad  Futty  vicum,  aestuarium 
ingrediuntur  aut  vento  atq^  aestu  secundo,  cothoni  ante  ipsam 
urbem  allabuntur  ubi  merces  exponunt  accipiuntve.  Amnis 
ostium,  angustum  admodum,  pila  sibi  propria  e  macerie 
trabibus  intertextis  magis  contrahitur.  aestuarium  spatiosum 
aestu  fluente,  niari  refuso  Devae  alveo  excepto,  siccum  apparet, 
aestu  iterum  accedente  cuncta  aquis  operiuntur,  quibusdam 
nullius  momenti  insulis  exceptis  in  quibus  mapalia  habent 
salmonurn  piscatores  salmonibus  recipiendis.  hi  e  regione 
oppidi  mari  refluo  quotidie  salmones  captant,  omnium  optimos 
quos  et  Galli  aliis  prseferunt  atc^  hoc  quaestu  lucrum  quotannis 
non  spernendum  urbi  accedit.  Quod  vero  ad  maximam 
aestuarii  partem  attinet,  lembis  sive  linis  lintribuscj^  solummodb 
pervia. 

Orientale  oppidi  latus  ac  vicum  de  Futtye  claudit  ager 
frugum  atq^  olerum  leguminumc^  omnigenum  ferax ;  hie  planitie 
viridi  spatiosa  terminatur,  quas  reginae  nomine  nescio  quamo- 
brem  vocatur.  Campi  maritimi  inter  duorum  amnium  ostia 
propemodum  porrecti,  ubi  varia  exercitiorum  genera,  pila  puta 
pedalis,  strophalis  [sic],  globorum  lusus ;  hie  quoq^  sanitatis 
gratia  quotidianae  deambulationes  :  hos  excipit  littus  maris 
planum  atq^  arenosum  mari  refuso  per  duo  passuum  millia 
aream  insignem  equorum  generosorum  cursibus  praebet.  427. 

Qua  per  portam  furcatam,  vetus  Abredonia  aditur  aequali 
fere  ab  utraq,  urbe  spatio  dissitum  secus  viam,  hierocomium 
elephantiasi  laborantibus  olim  appositum,  sacellum  quoq, 
Sanctse  Annse,  hujus  morbi  inter  Papistas  patronissae,  sumptu 
M.  Al.  Galloway  Abredonensium  venia  additum  anno  1519. 
via  nomen  servat.  aedificium  utrunq^  sublatum. 

Secundo  ab  urbe  lapide  Austrum  versus  iter  facientibus 
Devae. fluminis  pons  occurrit.  hujus  pilae  in  universum  octo, 
septem  fornicibus  devinctae  e  lapide  secto  quadrato.  Nullum 


484  ABREDONIA 

venustiorem  ostentat  Scotia,  impensis  Gul.  Elphinstonii  Aber- 
donen.  Episcopi  circa  annum  1518  conditus.  Opus  curavit 
Gul.  exequutor  Gavinus  Dunbarrus  qui  ponte  absolute  anno 
1527  prsedium  de  Ardlair  Abredonen.  dono  dedit,  cujus  rediti- 
bus  annuis,  pontis  ruina  in  posterum  caveretur,  aut  labefactus 
repararetur ;  ponti  quoc^  adstabat  tutelaris  Mariae  Sacellum 
quod  et  saeculo  superiore  dirutum  salvo  adhuc  ponte. 

Quod  ad  urbis  regimen  politicum  attinet,  diplomatibus 
regiis  cautum  est  ut  quotannis  Praefectus  Urbis  e  civium 
numero  eligatur,  quatuor  Scabinis  seu  Ballivis  ut  vocant, 
Quaestore,  Decano  Guildi  aedili  ac  certo  senatorum  numero 
additis;  senatoribus  pro  tempore  existentibus  solis  jus  suffragii 
novos  eligendi  datum,  sic  alternis  vicibus,  civibus  virtute 
egregiis  publica  munia  obeundi  spes  at<^  occasio.  nee  hactenus 
humili  loco  nati  urbis  prasfecturam  exercuere,  e  quorum  numero 
Menezii  de  Pitfollis  Comarchae  summa  cum  laude  saepius 
praefuere.  Huic  quoc^  familiae,  oppidanorum  ac  civium  illtis- 
trium  non  pauci  sanguine  aut  affinitate  se  junctos  decori 
existimant.  Quinetiam  anno  1545  Georgius  Gordonius  Hunti- 
laeus,  omnium  Scotiae  septentrionalis  facile  primus  Urbis  prae- 
fecturam  suscepit,  cujus  pater  etiam  anno  1462  fnedere 
decennali  cum  Abredonensibus  pacto  arma  sociaverat. 

Negotiatores  non  paucos  habet  Urbs  qui  salmones,  pannuni 
lineum,  laneum,  terga  bourn,  ovium  pelles  ac  vulpinas  etiam, 
et  quicquid  fert  regio  vicina,  devehunt  distrahuntq^  ac  in 
Norvegia,  Suecia,  Dania,  Pomerania,  Germania,  Hollandia, 
Flandria,  Gallia,  Hispania,  Angliaq^  vicina  aut  divendunt  aut 
permutant  cum  his  regionibus  ipsis  commercium.  Singulare 
quinetiam  Abredonensibus  ac  JErae  urbis  civibus  praeter  alias 
Scotiae  civitates,  quod  jure  commercii  ac  civitatis  prohibean- 
tur  opifices,  unde  non  raro  civibus  ac  artificibus  intervenit  lis 
ac  nonnunquam  dissidia  civilia,  opificibus  frustra  obnitentibus 
ac  civibus  jus  municipii  antiquum  tutantibus.  Cetera  cum 
reliquis  Scotiae  ufbibus  communia. 

Urbis  insignia  sunt  tria  castella  argentea  planitie  coccinea 
seu  sanguinea  descripta,  eac^  duplici  linea  circundata;  Iridis 
floribus  seu  liliis  candidis  multis  adinvicem  obversis  intersects 
duobus  leopardis  suflfulta ;  symbolo  voce  Gallica  Bon  Accord 
quod  idem  ac  pax  inter  concives  sonat.  Haec  a  Davide  Brussio 


ABREDONIA  VETUS  485 

Scotorum  rege  usurpari  jussa  sub  id  tenipus  quo  Abredonenses 
arcem  urbi  praesidiariam  pulsis  Anglis  recuperaverant,  post- 
ciuam  Angli  abusq,  sasculo  Edwardi  primi  Anglorum  regis,  qui 
et  arcis  conditor,  tenuissent.  Dux  facti  Kennedus  de  Rear 
muick  Comarcha,cujus  poster!  titulo  honorario  Constabulorum 
de  Aberdeen  in  perpetuam  rei  memoriam,  quanquam  hodie 
titulus  exoleverit,  insigniti. 

Urbis  Abredoniae  Icnographiae  Orthographiam  seu  pro- 
spectum  occidentalem  addidi,  quod  Edinburgum  describens 
duabus  tabellis  factitavi,  de  qua  re  emptores  monitos  velim, 
Chalcographum  mihi  atq^  emptori  pariter  imposuisse,  qui  dum 
utramq,  tabellam  prospectus  Edinburgensis  auget,  suo  com- 
modo  ac  lucro  potius  quam  rei  veritati  studens,  meo  Arche- 
typo  atq,  quod  adhuc  pejus,  Urbi  Edinburgensi  utraiiq, 
dissimilem  penitus  delineavit,  vel  potius  de  novo  invenit  ac 
finxit. 


ABREDONIA  VETUS 

Ad  septentrionem,  milliaris  Italici  unius  spatio,  nova 
Abredonia  distat,  atc^  inter  utriusc^  oppidi  cruces  ut  vocant, 
unius  Scotici  milliaris  distantiam  viatores  numerant.  Pagus 
campis  amoenis  aut  colliculis  eisdemc^  frugiferis,  multis  quoc^ 
pascuis  interjectis  undiq^  cinctus.  Nullum  jus  municipale 
habet.  Propolae  si  qui,  neapolitanorum  venia  negotiantur; 
vicus  revera  aut  pagus  aut  burgum  baroniae  censendus.  funda- 
tor  Evenus  secundus  ordine,  Scotorum  rex  circiter  annum 
mundi  3894  affirmatur  nescio  quo  autore.  Sedis  Episcopalis 
istuc  translatione  e  Murthlac  vico  ubi  adhuc  templum 
parochiale  Balvaniam  arcem  prope  visitur,  primo  inclaruit.  4%*- 
extat  diploma  regium  quo  totum  veteris  Abredoniae  vicum 
David  Scotorum  rex  Episcopo  Abredonensi  dono  dedit. 
Alexander  primus  ejus  nominis  Scotorum  rex  anno  Christi 
1122  sedem  Episcopalem  Abredoniam  transtulit ;  tune  primo 
et  postea  Academiae  accessione  vicum  accrevisse  constat. 
Borealem  urbis  terminum  Dona  fluvius  attingit.  qui  et 
salmonum  piscatione  atc^  margaritarum  captura  nobilis. 
Uniones  non  spernendae  sic  in  mitulis  quibusdam  inveni- 
untur.  et  ab  hoc  fluvio  nomen  accepit  vicus.  Sinuose  Donae 


486  ABREDONIA  VETUS 

Hexui  pneterlabentia  Templum  magnum  Macharii  dictum  im- 

minet.    Ecclesiam  Cathedralem  olim  vocitabant,  hodie  parochi- 

alis.  hoc  e  lapide  quadrato  forma  atq^  mole  augusta  conditum. 

fundamina  prima  jecit  Henricus  Cheyne  Episcopus  Abredon- 

ensis  An.  Ch.  1320.  hujus  exilio  opus  interruptum,  causa  exilii 

quod  avunculo  Cuminio  rebelli  se  sociasset.     Opus  desertum 

promovit  Alexr  Keaninmont  Antistitum  Abredonen.  ordine  13lu 

an.  Ch.  1333,  quo  anno  Abredonia  Nova  concremata.     Angli 

etiam  hujus  Episcopi  et  Canonicorum  supellectilem  diripuere. 

Henricus  Leighton  Episcopus  Abredonen.  postea  templum  hoc 

ad   summitatem    parietum  construxit,  duabus  quoq^   turribus 

pinnatis  ad  occidentem  ornavit.     Anno  Chr.  1440  Iiigerhamus 

Lindesius  successor  Henrici  contignationem  addidit  ac  pavi- 

mentum  lapide  tessellato  stravit.    turrim  maximam  quadratam 

seu  campanile  exstrui  jussit  Wilhelmus  Elphinstonus  Episcopus 

Abredonen.  templum  lamine  plumbeo  contexit  ac  campanile 

tribus  nolis   12000  pondo   ditavit.      Huic  successor  Gavinus 

Dumbarius  insulam   ut  vocant  australem  e  lapide  quadrato 

secto  etiam  addidit.     Basilica  olim  duplici  columnarum  lapi- 

dearum  ordine,  templo  alio  transverso,  tribus  turribus,  haruni 

maxima  campanili  seu  turri  quatuor  columnis  opere  fornicato 

superimposita  insignis ;  nee  supellex  impar.  insignia,  calices, 

vasa  ecclesiastica  et  id  genus  alia  ex  auro  argentove  fabrefacta, 

gemmis  pretiosis  multis  variisq^  inclusis  ornata,  magni  ponderis 

numerabantur.     Infulae,  cascolae,  ac  quicquid  vestium  sacerdo- 

talium  tune  temporis  usae  fuere  omnia  vel  bombycina,  luxu 

plusquam  regio,  phrigiata  ac  picta,  gemmis  nitentia  aurove 

intertexta  ostendebantur.     Auri  argentic^  quanta  vis  creditu 

difficile,  nisi  fidem  faceret  codex  antiquus  M.S.  singula  enume- 

rans.   hoc  quoque   templo  Bibliotheca  inerat,  verum  circiter 

430.  annum  1560  omnia  pessumdata  aut  sublata;  Bibliotheca  exusta 

utplurimum,nam  circumcunc^  volumini  aderat  rubrica,  in  illud 

tanquam  superstitionem  redolens  flammis  ultricibus  saevitum. 

Maxima  turris  prima,  plumbeo  lamine  detracto  procellae  atrocis 

impulsu  non  multis  deinceps  annis  corruit.     Templi   chorus 

radicitus  evulsus.  Hodie  veteris  basilicae  cadaver  tegulis  lapideis 

tectum  vix  oppidani  a  ruina  tuentur;  praeter  monumenta  Epis- 

coporum  Leigh toun  et  Dunbar  hie  quoc^  sarcophagi um  habet 

hereditarium  Marchio  Huntilaeus.  Inclaruitc^  denic^  hoc  tern- 


ABREDONIA  VETUS  487 

plum  nuper  tumulo  juvenis  nobilissimi  atc^  illustrissimi  D. 
Georgii  Gordonii  Marchionis  Huntilasi  nati  primogeniti,  qui 
ad  Alford  victim  fortiter  dimicans  cecidit  Julii  2  anni  1645. 

Templum  Sti.  Marcarii  ad  occidentem  Gerontodochium 
excipit  duodecim  pauperibus  alendis  a  Gavino  Dunbarro  olim 
dicatum :  horum  eleemosinae  nostra  aetate  imminutae,  senesq^ 
inclusi  mendicorum  adinstar  illic  vitam  aegre  tolerant.  Ccemi- 
terii  latus  orientale  claudebat  olim  Episcopi  Aberdonen.  pala- 
tium  augustum ;  hortos  ac  aedificia  murus  praealtus  distinguebat 
ab  urbe  vicina  ac  contigua;  exstrui  curavit  Alexr  Keaninmond 
Episcopus  Abredonen.  hodie  vero  horto  excepto,  tanti  hospitii 
vix  lapillus  unicus  superstes.  Anno  1639  abacto  Cl.  viro  D. 
Ad.  Belladino  ea  tempestate  Episcopo,  foederatorum  militi 
praedae  fuit,  omnia  hinc  parietibus  exceptis  avulsa,  diruta,  rapta; 
Anno  1655  Angli  muros  ipsos  sustulere,  vicinia  coacta  Neapolim 
ad  castelli  montem  transferre  lapides ;  quicquid  e  materie  ac 
rudere  relictum  ad  Collegium  regium  anno  1657  devectum. 
Episcopi  aedibus  contiguae  fuere  Capellanorum  cameras  sic  olim 
vocitatae,  structurae  area  quadrata,  partim  collapsae;  quicquid 
reliquum  aliis  cessit.  minimam  partem  redemit  D.  Jo.  For- 
besius  Cotharisius  Comarcha  S.S.  Theologiae  Professor,  ac  licet 
anno  1640  a  federatis  e  cathedra  detrusus,  nihilominus  domi- 
cilium  illud  S.S.  Theologiae  Professoribus  dicavit.  e  regione 
templi  Marcarii,  quinetiam  collegii,  canonicorum  Abredonen- 
sium  sita  fuere  hospitia,  nunc  plerac^  collapsa ;  horum  unicum 
lemuribus  ac  cacodemoniis  per  multos  annos  obnoxium  atc^ 
infame,  ab  Anglis  quoq^  funditus  sublatum.  Aliud  quod  et 
portae  a  Canonicis  denominatae  proximum  pergula  egregia 
addita,  eaq,  multa  ac  varia  pictura  ornata  atq,  horto  totius 
Abredoniae  maxime  amaeno  atq>  amplo,  impensis  D.  Al.  Gor- 
donii Clunii  circa  an:  1622  auctum  ;  reliqua  possident  atq,  in-  431. 
colunt  oppidani,  Ordine  Canonico  tanquam  Papismum  redolente 
olim  amoto. 

Collegium  regium  Abredonense  ad  terminum  pagi  australem 
positum  inter  reliqua  aedificia  facile  conspicuum.  Non  aliud 
Collegium  structura  augustius  aut  venustius  jactitat  Scotia. 
Latus  unicum  arese  ex  consulto  tegulis  lapideis,  cetera  plumbo 
tecta.  Templum  atq,  turris  seu  campanile  e  lapide  secto 
quadrate,  fenestrse  vitro  depicto  insignes  olim,  et  supersunt 


488  ABREDONIA  VETUS 

prisci  decoris  reliquiae.  In  templo  Wilhelmi  Elphinstoni 
monumentum  cyppum  e  lapide  Lydio  insignem  ostentat ; 
statua,  atc^  tredecim  signa  aenea  inaurata  circumstantia  olim 
direpta  divenditac^.  Turris  nolas  decem  numero,  e  quibus 
duas  magnitudine  non  facile  aequandas  habet,  fastigium  duplici 
arcu  transverse  concameratum.  hoc  absolvit  Corona  Regia 
octogonalis  totidem  columnis  lapideis  fulta.  Coronam  claudit 
globus  lapideus  cruce  duplici  deaurata  in  altum  consurgens, 
hoc  quasi  insigni  Regium  Collegium  esse  innuens.  Anno  1631 
tempestatis  immensae  vi  eversum,  sed  statim  forma  augustiore, 
auspiciis  D.  Patricii  Forbesii  Episcopi  Abredonen.  procuratione 
D.  Wil.  Gordoni  M.D.  restitutum.  Opus  hoc  largitionibus 
amplis  nobiles  non  pauci  vicinarum  regionum  incolae 
provexere. 

Templo  contermina  Bibliotheca  multis  voluminibus  referta, 
sed  plerac^  infidis  custodibus  sufFuruta  ablatave.  Hodie 
privatorum  munificentia  repleta  ac  denuo  aucta.  Proximum 
est  Tabularium  ubi  Academiae  diplomata  reponuntur,  sicut 
olim;  praeterea  multa  ac  pretiosa  inerat  supellex  olim  a 
latronibus  direpta;  sequitur  Exedra  nunc  auditorii  vices 
supplens.  areae  latus  integrum  tenent  Auditorium  publicum  et 
Refectorium  dicta:  supr.  illud  atrium  vocant  venustum  ac 
nitidum.  Latus  australe  duae  turres  pinnatae  terminant.  post 
annum  1657  quadratum  areae  novae  Basilicas  additamento 
clausum  atc^  absolutum ;  haec  symmetria  et  architecture?  lege 
servata  tecto  piano  loricate  supereminet.  Academiae  Pro- 
fessores  temporibus  minime  pacatis,  opus  hoc  ausi,  adhortante 
ad  id  Juvene  ornatissimo  D.  Patricio  Sandilandio  Proprimario, 
e  censu  annuo  ac  salariis  Doctorum  unusquisc^  dum  opus  absol- 
veretur,  nonnihil  detraxit,  ac  prout  tempora  tributis  exliausta 
patiebantur,  nobiles  multi  et  presbyteri  fere  omnes  Scotiae 
septentrionalis  de  re  sua  familiari  sumptus  contulere.  Hacteims 
vero  Rege  serenissimo  Carolo  2do  feliciter  anno  1660  reduce, 
432.  D.  Andreae  Mori  M.D.  ac  Professoris  doctissimi  in  Aula  pro- 
curatione impetratum  ut  fiscus  erogaret,  et  ipsius  regis  nomine 
quantum  operi  huic  absolvendo  sufficeret. 

Totius  structurae  fundamentum,  solo  lubrico  atc^  udo  innitens, 
trabibus  querceis  stratum  magno  sumptu  ac  labore ;  atc^  ut 
sernel  in  universum  notet  lector,  qusecunc^  aedificia,  pontesve 


ABREDONIA  VETUS  489 

habet  Abredonia,  lapide  quadrato  secto  extructa;  his  ex- 
truendis  e  lapicidiis  ad  Forthae  aestuarium  positis  ant  Mora- 
viensibus  saxa  extrahunt,  quinetiam  omnes  tegulas  lapideas, 
ligna,  tigna,  calcem  mari  advehunt  Abredonenses  e  longinquis 
regionibus ;  sed  ut  ad  propositum  revertar. 

Collegio  adstat  Scola  Grammaticalis,  quinetiam  e  regione 
Academiae  Professorum  circumstant  domicilia,  horum  nonnulla 
diruta,  alia  ruinosa,  reliqua  sarta  tecta  asservantur.  Gymna- 
sium hoc  anno  1500  quarto  nonas  Aprilis  aedificari  coeptum 
auspiciis  Jacobi  Quarti  Scotorum  Regis,  quod  et  testatur  vetus 
inscriptio  frontispicio  templi  insculpta.  Inchoavit  Presul 
Clarissimus  D.  Will.  Elphinstonius,  ejiisq^  sumptibus,  spatio  in 
universum  duodecennali  postea  a  Gavino  Dumbarro  executore 
opus  finitum.  Patronatum  suscepit  Rex  illtistrissimus  ac 
nomen  Collegii  regii  indidit.  Alexander  VIUS  et  Julius  2dus 
P.F.R.R.  jura  ac  privilegia  Universitati  Parisiensi  ac  Bono- 
niensi  paria,  et  quae  retinere  scilicet  non  potuerant  prodigi, 
usurpanda  concessere,  atq^  his  sed  meliore  titulo  utpote  lege 
sancitis  in  hodiernum  diem  gaudet.  Instituit  fundator  Elphin- 
stonus  ut  42  omnino  publica  officia  et  beneficia  haberent 
quorum  singuli  distinctis  alerentur  stipendiis,  e  quorum 
numero  SS.  Theologies  Professores  4,  Juris  Civilis  unus, 
atq^  alius  Juris  Canonic!  Professor  additus  quoq^  Medicus  ac 
humaniorum  literarum  Professor  et  qui  Musicae  elementa 
traderet,  Cantor  idem  publicus.  Philosophiae  Doctores  tres, 
Graecae  linguae  Professor,  Theologiae  ac  Philosophiae  12  alumni. 
Cancellarii  dignitatem  successoribus  delegavit  fundator,  ac 
Academiae  Rectorem  quotannis  de  novo  eligi  voluit,  sed  horum 
quidam  sublati,  quorundam  institutio  immutata.  SS.  Theologiae 
Professor  (atq^  huic  salarium)  nuper  additus. 

Census  Academiae  olim  amplus  postea  imminutus  nostra 
iterum  aetate  non  parum  exauctus ;  postquam  fundata  mul- 
torum  clarorum  ingeniorum  excultrix  nutrixc^.  Celebrem 
inter  alios  reddidere  Hector  Boetius  natione  Taodunensis, 
Academiae  Gymnasiarcharum  ordine  primus,  historicus,  D. 
Gulielmus  Leslaeus  nuper  Gymnasiarcha  ac  dum  vixerat, 
reconditse  eruditionis  vir,  ac  D.  Johannes  Forbesius  a  Corse 
Theologiae  Professor  doctissimus. 

E  Collegio  digredientibus  Neapolim  versus,  ruinae  Ecclesiae  jss. 


490  ABREDONIA  VETUS 

parochialis,  Sanctae  Marine  ad  nives  olim  dictae,  segre  dignos- 
cuntur  vestigia,  cujus  fundator  atc^  initia  nesciuntur.  Alterius 
paulo  progredientibus,  secus  viam  publicam  olim  templum 
Petro  sacrum  positum  erat  templum  Nosocomii  dictum ;  illud 
quoq^  hactenus  sublatum,  nihil  de  fundatore  constat. 

Dona3  fluminis  pons  dicendus  restat,  quadringentis  aut  eo 
circiter  passibus  septentrionem  versus  Abredonia  veteri  dis- 
situs,  arcu  unico  sed  amplissimo  fluvii  ripas  jungens,  nee  facile 
parem  inveneris  e  lapide  ut  plurimum  secto  et  quadrato 
substructus,  pila  utrac^  crepidini  saxeae  defixa  atq^  imposita 
deflui  ac  torrentis  amnis  violentiam  flexu  sinuoso  frangit. 
Naturam  situm  ponti  ostendisse  dixeris.  hinc  Dona  recta 
in  mare  fertur.  Memoriae  tamen  proditum  est  Donam  colli- 
culum  maritimum  versus,  qui  et  mons  latus  dicitur,  olim 
deflexisse  atc^  juxta  montis  istius  radices  Mari  Germanico 
aquas  tributarias  persolvisse.  fid  em  facit  lacus  angustus  atc^ 
idem  oblongus,  ac  praealtus  campus  maritimus  objectus  ipsius 
alvei  fluminis  pars  fuisse  dicitur.  ac  antiquae  quaedam  Scotia? 
tabulae  geographicae  quae  ostium  Donae  sic  describunt.  Donae 
fluminis  pontis  fundator  quis  mortalium  fuerit,  nemo  novit. 
Asseritur  Robertum  Brussium  Regem  fortissimum  ea  tem- 
pestate  qua  Henricum  Chyneum  Abredoniae  Anstititem,  Abre- 
doniae  sede  Episcopali  ac  tota  denic^  Scotia  expulit,  annuos 
hujus  Episcopi  reditus  in  pios  usus  absumi  jussisse,  eorumc^ 
partem  quod  et  verosimile  pontis  hujus  egregii  structura 
absumptos.  Att^  haec,  quantum  instituti  fert  ratio,  de 
Abredonia  utraq^  dicta  sunto. 


TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN  491 

The  following  is  a  Translation  into  English  of 
the  Topographical  Description  of  both  Towns 
of  Aberdeen.  By  J.  G. 

Some  remarks  on  this  Description  are  given 
in  the  Preface. 

A  TOPOGRAPHICAL  DESCRIPTION  OF  BOTH 
TOWNS  OF  ABERDEEN 
BY  J.  G. 

Aberdeen,,  a  city  in  the  north  of  Scotland,  is  situated  on  the  east  coast 
of  the  country,  where  it  is  washed  by  the  German  Ocean,  and  it  also 
easily  surpasses  not  only  the  rest  of  the  towns  in  the  north  of  Scotland, 
but  even  any  others  in  the  same  latitude,  in  extent  of  trade,  in  popula- 
tion, and,  lastly,  in  beauty.  The  elevation  of  the  Pole  at  Aberdeen  is 
calculated  to  be  57  degrees  10  minutes.  Though  most  geographers 
assign  to  it  a  much  higher  latitude,  yet  no  other  has  been  found  from 
the  accurate  and  numerous  observations  of  the  learned  William  Moir,  a 
mathematician  of  Aberdeen.  The  land  close  to  the  city  is  fertile  in 
crops  and  abundant  in  pastures,  but  those  who  pass  beyond  a  mile  from 
the  city,  in  any  direction,  come  to  a  country  rugged  with  uneven  hills  and 
clodded  fields,  almost  covered  with  stones,  and  rough  with  heathery 
moors.  Compared  with  these  the  land  interspersed  is  rare,  and  occurs 
only  at  intervals.  The  geniality  of  the  climate  and  the  mildness  of  the 
air  are  great,  and  to  these,  perhaps,  the  townspeople  owe  their  sharp  and 
shrewd  intellects,  the  like  of  which  it  is  difficult  to  find  elsewhere  in  a 
northern  district  exposed  to  a  dense  atmosphere.  Hence  also  Aberdeen 
is  singular  in  being  deservedly  reckoned  the  nurse  of  so  many  men  of 
wisdom,  philosophers,  scholars,  and  men  celebrated  for  their  skill  in  the 
art  of  war,  and  their  politeness  and  courtesy  of  manners.  Two  towns  are 
designated  by  the  name  of  Aberdeen,  the  old  and  the  new  ;  the  latter  is 
situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  River  Dee  beside  its  northern  bank,  and 
should  properly  be  called  Aberdee,  or  rather  Aberdeva.  Some  will  have 
it  that  it  was  called  by  the  ancient,  or  rather,  1  believe,  by  the  poetical 
name  of  Devana.  The  other  town,  which  is  also  old,  claims  the  name 
of  Aberdeen  with  better  right,  as  it  borders  the  River  Don.  New  Aber- 
deen, or,  if  you  prefer  it,  Aberdeva,  is  a  royal  burgh,  as  they  call  it,  and 
rejoices  in  the  rights  of  a  municipality.  But  Old  Aberdeen,  since  it  can 
boast  of  no  such  privilege,  would  require  to  be  called  a  village  or  a  hamlet 
rather  than  a  city. 

Some  maintain  that  the  expression  Aberdeen  in  the  Irish  language 
means  the  house  of  the  dean,  but  falsely,  since  in  reality  this  compound 
expression  signifies  nothing  else  than  the  mouth  of  the  River  Dee  or  Deva 


492  TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN 

in  the  ancient  British  tongue,  for  among  those  speaking  it  aber  is  the 
mouth  of  a  river.  Deva,  or  rather  Dee,  represents  the  black  river,  or  the 
peculiar  hlackness  of  the  water,  whence  the  name  of  Dee  is  common  to 
other  British  and  Irish  rivers  and  our  Dee.  This  must  more  than 
suffice  about  the  derivation  of  the  name ;  and  there  is  no  reason  why  we 
should  investigate  the  origin  of  a  meaningless  word  among  the  roots  of 
the  Hebrew  language,  as  a  certain  writer  recently  did  in  adding  a  De- 
scription to  the  Map  of  the  City  of  Edinburgh,  and  by  absurdly  tracing 
the  explanation  of  Edina  to  Hebrew  sources,  imposed  upon  the  reader, 
filling  the  paper  with  grammatical  trifles  instead  of  a  proper  description  ; 
about  which  I  would  like  to  warn  readers,  since  that  Description  of 
Edinburgh,  annexed  to  the  Map  published  by  me  some  years  ago,  has 
hitherto  been  passing  through  the  hands  of  all,  and  is  thought  to  be 
my  work,  whereas  by  the  stuff  not  only  is  an  injury  done  to  me,  but 
even  the  highly  flourishing  capital  of  Scotland  has  now,  on  account  of 
an  unworthy  description,  been  exposed  to  the  ridicule  of  all  men. 

Who  the  inhabitants  of  Aberdeen  were  in  ancient  times,  or  in  what 
age  it  was  founded  is  not  known ;  the  eagles  of  the  Romans  did  not  fly 
so  far.  Mearns  and  the  Grampian  range,  which  touches  the  south  bank 
of  the  River  Dee  opposite  Aberdeen,  were  their  goal,  and  the  limit  of  the 
Roman  Empire.  We  first  read  about  Aberdeen  in  the  times  of  Gregory, 
King  of  Scots.  He  began  his  reign  in  the  year  of  Christ  876,  if  we  are 
to  believe  the  historian  Hector  Boece.  Gregory  also  made  Aberdeen  a 
city  from  being  a  village,  with  the  old  name  preserved,  and  made  a  gift 
of  many  privileges  and  estates  to  its  church.  Where  that  church  was, 
or  what  the  privileges  and  estates  were,  Boece  does  not  tell,  or  surely  did 
not  know.  These  were  afterwards  augmented  by  William,  King  of 
Scots.  He  began  to  reign  in  the  year  of  Christ  1165.  He  is  also  said 
to  have  resided  for  some  time  at  Aberdeen,  and  there  to  have  built  a 
palace  of  some  kind  or  other,  which  in  his  own  lifetime  he  gifted  by 
royal  charter  to  the  monks  of  the  Order  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  to  be  a 
monastery  for  them  in  perpetuity.  Also  Alexander,  King  of  Scots,  the 
second  of  that  name,  who  began  his  reign  in  the  year  of  Christ  1214, 
visiting  Aberdeen  with  one  of  his  two  sisters,  Isabella,  who  had  returned 
from  England,  himself  enriched  it  with  many  privileges,  as  before  his 
time,  David  and  Malcolm,  Kings  of  Scots,  are  said  to  have  done.  But  it 
is  uncertain  whether  any  other  King  of  Scots  resided  at  Aberdeen.  It 
has  been  ascertained,  however,  that  all  the  Kings  of  Scotland  who  suc- 
ceeded in  consecutive  order  down  to  our  times  either  confirmed  or 
increased  the  privileges  of  Aberdeen,  so  that  it  may  justly  be  said  of  this, 
that  no  other  Scottish  town,  if  you  except  Edinburgh  alone,  claims  more 
extensive  rights.  And  not  only  are  the  citizens  rich  from  their  nautical 
skill,  which  they  frequently  practise  in  our  age,  and  from  the  produce 
of  their  fields  or  the  capture  of  salmon,  but  also  all  the  small  towns. 
villages  and  hamlets  of  the  neighbouring  sheriffdoms  and  districts, 
except  Kintore  and  Innerurie,  are  bound  to  engage  in  commerce  by  sea 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN  493 

and  land  at  the  pleasure  and  with  the  permission  of  the  citizens  of 
Aberdeen,  and  it  is  unlawful  for  them  to  trade  otherwise. 

Besides  the  salmon  fishery  of  both  rivers,  the  city  possesses  many 
farms,  which  are  called  the  Liberty  of  the  town,  and  under  this  name 
the  land  of  Aberdeen  extends  four  miles  westward  from  the  town  into 
the  district  of  Mar,  in  which  Aberdeen  itself  is  situated.  It  was  pre- 
sented with  the  whole  of  this  by  the  kings  of  Scotland. 

The  town  has  hitherto  experienced  many  vicissitudes,  for  in  the  year 
1333,  in  the  reign  of  David  Bruce,  King  of  Scots,  thirty  English  ships, 
in  aid  of  Balliol's  party,  anchored  at  Aberdeen  during  the  night,  and 
troops  landing  entered  the  town  so  suddenly,  without  the  knowledge  of 
the  inhabitants,  that  they  butchered  most  of  these.  They  then  set  the 
city  on  fire,  and  the  conflagration  raged,  a  mournful  sight  to  spectators, 
for  the  next  six  days.  The  churches  and  sacred  buildings,  however, 
being  saved  by  the  setting  of  guards,  escaped  destruction.  The  city  was 
built  anew,  and  began  thereafter  to  be  called  New  Aberdeen. 

In  our  age,  when  the  tide  of  civil  war  surged  through  Scotland,  this 
town  suffered  damage,  slaughter,  sack,  defeat,  and  burning  much  more 
frequently  and  severely  than  the  other  towns  of  Scotland.  Here 
garrisons  of  soldiers  usually  remained  long,  and  in  whatever  neighbour- 
hood their  domination  prevailed,  the  same  city  was  subjected  to  exac- 
tions, and  ordered  to  furnish  provisions  and  pay  for  the  soldiers  at  the 
victor's  will.  And  while  it  was  the  victor's  headquarters  for  some  time, 
it  not  seldom  fell  a  prey  to  the  insolence  and  wantonness  of  barbarous 
soldiers,  so  that  a  town  recently  wealthy  was  oppressed  with  the  gloom 
of  poverty,  and  the  most  enterprising  citizens  almost  languished  under 
uudeserved  plundering.  The  soldiei's  of  Montrose,  mostly  strangers,  in 
the  year  1644,  caused  no  small  disaster  to  the  town  by  killing  many 
townspeople,  and  also  sacking  the  place.  Then  Huntly,  provoked  by  the 
raid  of  the  garrison  soldiers  on  his  camp  by  night,  closely  tracking  their 
footsteps  next  day,  invested  the  city  and  the  victors,  now  fugitives,  with 
a  sudden  siege.  Setting  the  houses  on  fire,  after  a  few  hours'  delay  spent 
in  storming  the  place,  Huntly  gained  possession  of  the  town,  and  took 
prisoners  all  the  garrison  soldiers  that  had  escaped  death.  The  captured 
town  was  the  prey  of  Huntly's  soldiery  for  hardly  an  hour,  when  the  signal 
for  retreat  was  given,  and  the  fire  was  extinguished  without  there  having 
been  any  slaughter  of  citizens,  most  of  whom  had  even  saved  their 
furniture  entire.  However,  neither  the  disaster  inflicted  by  Montrose 
nor  the  burning  of  the  place  by  Huntly  did  so  much  injury  to  the  town  : 
these  were  light  evils  if  they  be  compared  with  the  daily  misfortunes  of 
twenty-three  years,  under  which  now  borne  down  it  has  sunk. 

It  was  made  notable  by  Robert  the  Bruce,  King  of  Scots,  when,  not  far 
from  Aberdeen,  in  the  year  1306,  after  his  return  from  England,  he  first 
victoriously  routed  his  enemies.  In  the  last  century,  about  1571,  the 
laird  of  Auchindoun,  Huntly's  brother,  defeated  Lord  Forbes  with  his 
dependants,  though  none  of  the  townspeople  were  forced  to  follow  him, 


494  TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN 

about  which  Buchanan,  influenced  by  hatred  of  Huntly,  lies  magni- 
ficently. Beside  the  road  by  which  the  bridge  over  the  river  Dee  is 
approached,  a  prominent  object  in  the  shape  of  a  rude  stone  gave  its 
name  to  the  fight.  The  field  adjoining  this  stone  was  anew  stained  with 
blood  at  the  defeat  of  the  Covenanters,  also  in  the  above-mentioned  year 
[1644].  On  that  occasion  the  townspeople  were  forced  to  take  up  arms 
in  order,  with  this  subservience  and  with  their  blood,  to  satisfy  the  resent- 
ment of  the  Covenanters  whom,  of  their  own  accord,  they  had,  under  the 
standard  of  James  Gordon,  Earl  of  Aboyne,  twice  opposed  in  the  space 
of  four  days,  first  near  the  port  of  Stonehaven,  and  next  at  the  Bridge  of 
Dee.  In  the  two  fights,  however,  Montrose,  who  was  in  sooth  at  the 
time  a  lieutenant-general  of  the  Covenanters,  first  routed  them  with 
their  leader,  and  then,  the  gate  of  the  River  Dee  being  burst  by  force, 
they  were  compelled  to  abandon  the  town  to  the  victor. 

In  ancient  times  also  the  valour  of  the  inhabitants  in  war  was  re- 
nowned, especially  at  the  bloody  fight  of  Harlaw  in  the  year  of  Christ 
1411.  Under  the  leadership  of  Mar  they  fought  more  successfully  than 
in  this  century,  for  they  returned  to  the  town  sharers  in  victory  with 
flying  colours,  but  they  lost  the  provost  of  the  city,  Robert  Davidson,  a 
gallant  soldier.  In  our  age,  too,  that  banner  was  displayed,  and  was 
not  lost  till  the  last  engagement  with  Montrose. 

Aberdeen  claims  not  a  few  men  famous  in  arms  or  in  other  arts,  of 
whom  some  even  owe  their  birth  to  the  city.  Among  these  are  the 
following  most  learned  men  of  greater  note  and  name  :  John  Forbes  of 
Corse,  doctor  and  professor  of  theology ;  William  Forbes,  an  Aber- 
donian  by  birth,  Bishop  of  Edinburgh  ;  Robert  Barron,  formerly  doctor 
of  theology  and  public  professor  at  Aberdeen;  William  Leslie,  formerly 
the  most  learned  Principal  of  King's  College  ;  Alexander  Scrogy,  lately 
minister  of  Old  Aberdeen ;  John  Sibbald,  once  minister  at  Aberdeen 
and  afterwards  at  Dublin ;  Robert  Howie,  theologian,  some  years  ago 
primarius  professor  in  St.  Mary's  College  at  St.  Andrews  ;  Alexander 
Ross,  theologian,  historian,  and  poet,  a  native  of  Aberdeen,  lived  and 
died  in  England.  Then  [the  following]  lawyers  are  celebrated  :  Thomas 
Nicolson,  a  most  learned  lawyer;  John  Skene,  once  principal  keeper  of 
the  Rolls,  as  they  call  the  office ;  James  Robertson,  recently  doctor  of 
laws  and  public  professor  at  Bordeaux  in  France ;  Robert  Burnet  of 
Crimond,  a  most  learned  legal  senator  in  the  Supreme  Court  of  the 
kingdom  ;  James  Forbes  of  Corsindas,  doctor  of  laws,  who  lives  in 
France ;  Alexander  Irwine  of  Lenturke,  who  was  a  lawyer  of  extra- 
ordinary learning;  and  William  Anderson,  a  famous  theologian  and 
mathematician.  Celebrated  for  their  knowledge  of  humanity,  philo- 
sophy, history,  or  mathematics  are :  John  Lesly,  in  the  century  last 
gone  Bishop  of  Ross,  historian  ;  David  Wedderburn,  a  grammarian  of 
Aberdeen  ;  Thomas  Reid,  Latin  secretary  to  the  Most  Serene  King 
James  vi.  ;  Gilbert  Gray,  primarius  professor  of  philosophy  in  Marischal 
College ;  Patrick  Gray,  mathematician ;  William  Gray,  formerly  pro- 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN  495 

fessor  and  doctor  of  medicine  in  the  University  of  Orange  in  France  • 
John  Johnstone,  formerly  professor  of  theology  at  St.  Andrews ;  Alex- 
ander Anderson,  a  very  famous  mathematician  of  Aberdeen  ;  Robert 
Gordon  of  Straloch,  mathematician,  historian,  geographer,  and  poet 
Medical  men  are  :  Duncan  Liddel,  who  was  highly  celebrated  also  as  a 
theologian,  philosopher,  and  poet;  James  Cargill ;  Gilbert  Jack,  not 
long  ago  professor  of  philosophy  in  the  University  of  Leyden  ;  Arthur 
Johnston,  physician  to  the  king,  easily  chief  of  the  Scottish  poets  of  his 
time ;  William  Johnstone,  formerly  professor  of  mathematics  in  Maris- 
chal  College  ;  William  Gordon,  professor  of  medicine  in  King's  College, 
Aberdeen  ;  Patrick  and  Robert  Dun,  physicians  in  Aberdeen  ;  Alexander 
Reid,  who  was  also  lately  public  professor  of  the  art  of  surgery  in 
London;  Thomas  Burnet,  physician  in  England;  William  Davidson, 
physician  to  the  King  of  Poland.  Among  those  famous  in  war  by  land 
or  sea  it  boasts  the  Kers,  the  Norries  [Urrys],  Chalmers,  and  John- 
ston, military  officers,  and  Strachan,  a  distinguished  admiral,  honoured 
with  the  order  of  knighthood  by  the  Most  Serene  King  Charles  n.  for 
gallant  service.  To  all  these  we  may  add  David  Anderson,  an  excellent 
mechanician,  and  George  Jamesone,  the  king's  limner,  who  was  the 
first  man  to  introduce  the  art  of  painting  to  Aberdeen. 

Aberdeen  has  also  several  families  peculiar  to  itself,  and  famous 
through  a  long  series  of  years,  that  bear  the  surnames,  titles,  and  arms 
of  their  ancestors,  and  often  discharge  the  offices  of  their  ancestors. 
Among  these  the  family  of  Chalmers,  the  Menzieses,  the  Cullens,  the 
Collinsons,  the  Lawsons,  the  Grays,  the  Rutherfords,  and  the  Leslies 
are  distinctly  celebrated.  After  the  city  grew,  alike  by  extensive  and 
successful  trade,  many  other  men,  sprung  from  no  obscure  families, 
came  thither,  and  being  presented  with  the  rights  of  citizenship  left  rich 
descendants  at  Aberdeen. 

The  ancient  city  appears  to  have  been  originally  situated  on  the 
shore  of  the  estuary,  and  to  have  barely  occupied  the  whole  of  that 
space  which  is  now  called  the  suburb  of  the  Green.  As  proof  of  this 
fact,  there  is  the  monastery  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  once,  as  is  said, 
King  William's  palace,  situated  on  the  very  edge  of  the  bank,  and 
the  ruins  of  the  old  Townhouse  are  shown  at  the  back  gate  of  the 
garden  attached  to  the  extensive  mansion  of  the  laird  of  Pitfodels.  In 
course  of  time  the  townspeople  seem  to  have  filled  some  neighbouring 
knolls  with  buildings,  and  in  our  age  the  greater  and  the  better  part  of 
the  city  is  seen  to  have  been  placed  step  by  step  on  these  hills.  They 
are  three  in  number  altogether,  and  among  them  the  hill  or  small 
mountain  that  is  most  prominent  on  the  north  side  of  the  city  is  called 
the  Gallowhill,  but  by  a  more  usual  name  the  Windmill  Knoll  or  Hill, 
from  a  windmill  situated  on  its  top.  The  second  derives  its  name  from 
the  castle  or  citadel  once  situated  there.  The  highest  takes  its  name 
from  St.  Catherine's  chapel.  Between  these  the  principal  part  of  the 
city,  or  more  truly  the  city  itself,  lies.  The  slopes  of  each  are  hardly 


496  TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN 

felt  by  those  walking  in  the  streets,  but  are  found  to  be  sufficiently  pro- 
nounced by  those  living  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town,  or  coming  to  it 
from  other  places.  All  the  lanes,  rows,  and  streets  that  run  into  each 
other,  with  no  guiding  name  or  regard  to  symmetry,  are  [not]  easily  dis- 
tinguished. The  houses  are  built  of  stone  and  lime,  and  have  sloping 
roofs  covered  with  slates.  Most  of  them  are  three-storied,  and  not  a  few 
rise  to  a  height  of  four  flats.  The  streets  are  laid  with  flint  or  a  very 
hard  stone  resembling  flint.  The  dwellings  are  very  beautiful  outside 
and  inside,  and  where  (for  they  usually  show  gardens  or  orchards 
adjoining  them,  and  have  their  own  back  gates  for  particular  gardens) 
they  look  out  on  the  street,  they  are  adorned  with  wooden  porches. 
They  are  also  planted  round  with  trees  of  all  kinds  suitable  to  the 
district,  so  that  the  whole  town  presents  the  appearance  of  a  grove  to 
those  approaching  it.  The  uneven  ground  on  which  the  town  is  built 
renders  it  incapable  of  having  walls,  ditches,  and  the  defences  usual  in 
this  age,  to  the  delight  and  great  convenience  of  the  townspeople. 
Twice,  however,  in  all,  while  the  conflagration  of  civil  war  was  raging, 
there  were  vain  attempts  to  enclose  it  with  ramparts,  and  twice,  before 
the  works  were  scarcely  completed,  they  were  levelled  with  the  ground 
by  order  of  the  assailants. 

To  the  west  of  the  town  a  level-topped  and  grassy  knoll  or  hillock 
presents  itself  to  view,  incorrectly  called  the  Woman-hill,  but  more 
truly  to  be  styled  the  Woolman-hill,  because  wool  was  formerly  exposed 
there  for  sale  at  fixed  times  by  persons  from  the  neighbourhood.  From  the 
base  of  the  hill  itself  a  spring  of  never-failing  water  issues,  and  another 
well  of  the  same  kind  bubbles  up  in  the  mid-channel  of  a  burn  that  flows 
past  the  foot  of  the  hill,  but  is  easily  distinguished  by  colour  and  taste 
from  the  burn,  widely  known  by  the  specific  and  borrowed  name  of  the 
Spa.  It  was  so  called,  as  I  think,  because  it  resembles  in  taste  and 
qualities  the  well  of  Spa  in  the  bishopric  of  Lie'ge,  situated  eight  leagues 
from  the  city  of  Tongres.  Our  spring,  however,  differs  from  that  cele- 
brated spring  of  Tongres  in  certain  points,  for  it  is  cold  to  the  touch, 
while  that  of  Liege  is  hot  when  touched  ;  but  the  other  qualities  are 
common,  if  we  believe  Pliny  who,  writing  about  the  latter  (Nat.  Hint., 
lib.  31,  cap.  2)  has  these  words  :  '  The  state  of  the  Tungri  has  a  remark- 
able spring  that  drops  in  copious  bubbles  of  an  iron  taste,  which,  how- 
ever, is  not  felt  except  at  the  end  of  the  draught ;  it  purges  the  body, 
dispels  tertian  fevers,  and  troubles  of  the  stone.'  The  learned  William 
Barclay,  a  physician  of  Aberdeen,  has  in  our  age  written  a  treatise  on 
the  Spa  water  at  Aberdeen.  He  who  wants  to  know  more  should  con- 
sult that  booklet.  A  square  field  near  this  of  old  supplied  the  place  of 
a  theatre.  It  has  now  been  changed  into  a  pleasant  suburban  garden  at 
the  expense  of  the  talented  George  Jamesone,  who  has  also  caused 
a  museum  painted  by  his  own  hand  to  be  built  in  the  same  place. 

The  street  which  is  also  called  the  Gallowgate  on  the  west  has  close  to 
it  an  extensive  piece  of  damp,  marshy  soil  called  a  loch,  but  it  is  more 


THAXSLATION  :  ABERDEEN  497 

truly  a  swamp  or  overflow.  A  burn  confined  with  embankments  flows 
into  and  round  it,  and  inundates  it.  Nor  was  any  otber  form  of  aque- 
duct devised  of  old  to  supply  water  to  the  back  gates  and  three  mills. 
Why  the  neighbouring  street  received  its  name  from  gallows  is  not 
quite  clear,  unless  perhaps  it  was  owing  to  the  existence  of  some  gallows 
near,  which  is  now  removed,  or  because  thieves  condemned  to  death 
were  led  to  the  gibbet  by  this  way,  though  at  the  present  day  malefactors 
are  dragged  to  punishment  outside  the  city  through  a  gate  known  by 
their  own  name  [the  Thieves'  Port]. 

Next  comes  the  Broad  Street,  which  derived  its  name  from  its  remark- 
able breadth,  since  this  with  the  parallel  lane  or  row  formed  only  one 
street.  Now  they  are  separated  by  a  long  line  of  intervening  houses. 
But  why  that  row  received  the  name  of  guest,  or  more  correctly  ghuist, 
the  word  being  ambiguous,  no  one  now  knows. 

In  the  Broad  Street  stands  the  noteworthy  church  of  the  Franciscans, 
which  also  separates  Marischal  College  from  the  street.  ]t  is  built  of 
dressed  stone,  and  is  a  work  finished  by  Gavin  Dunbar,  Bishop  of  Aber- 
deen, about  the  year  of  Christ  1500,  and  presented  to  the  adjacent 
college  of  the  Franciscans.  In  the  year  1560  it  was  saved  with  difficulty ; 
and  unless,  on  the  23rd  January  in  the  same  year,  the  Franciscan  Friars, 
giving  up  their  title  and  rights,  had  gifted  their  church,  monastery,  and 
gardens  to  the  townspeople  by  public  instrument,  these  would  most 
certainly  have  met  the  common  fate  of  the  monasteries  and  churches 
of  that  time  ;  but  the  townspeople  forbade  it,  and  provision  \vas  made  by 
a  decree  of  the  council  that  the  church  should  thereafter  be  kept  roofed 
and  in  repair  at  their  expense.  Subsequently,  in  the  year  1034,  when 
it  was  derelict  and  almost  in  ruins  from  age,  the  Aberdonians  setting 
about  its  repair  had  made  considerable  progress  with  the  work,  to  which 
the  liberality  of  the  learned  William  Guild,  minister  at  Aberdeen,  was 
not  wanting,  for  he  filled  the  numerous  and  large  windows  of  the  church 
with  glass.  But  in  the  following  years,  when  all  outrages  were  allowed, 
it  was  occupied  by  a  garrison  of  soldiers,  and  was  a  post  for  constant 
watches.  The  Aberdonians  gifted  the  monastery  itself  in  the  year  1593, 
on  the  4th  September,  but  on  condition  that  George  Keith,  Earl  Marie- 
chal,  should  substitute  a  philosophical  academy  in  place  of  the  religious 
house.  Nor  did  the  Marischal  refuse,  and  even  in  the  same  year  he 
founded  that  university,  and  its  privileges  were  sanctioned  and  ratified 
by  the  charter  of  the  Most  Serene  King  James  vi.  To  the  estates  of  the 
Carmelite  and  Dominican  Friars  of  Aberdeen  given  up  to  furnish  salaries 
to  the  professors  for  the  future,  he  added  something  from  his  own  private 
property  ;  but  afterwards  by  the  generosity  of  certain  noble  and  learned 
citizens  the  revenues  of  the  university  increased  enormously.  Among 
these,  the  principal  donors  who  enriched  this  college  with  estates,  farms, 
or  money  must  not  be  passed  over  in  silence.  In  the  year  1630  they 
were  Sir  Alexander  Irvine  of  Drum,  Chief  of  the  Clan  Irvine,  Sir 
Thomas  Crombie  of  Kemney,  a  native  of  Aberdeen,  James  Cargill, 
VOL.  II.  ^  l 


498  TRANSLATION  :  ABERDEEN 

physician,  John  Johnstone,  theologian,  Duncan  Liddel,  physician, 
Alexander  Reid,  physician,  William  Guild,  Alexander  Ross,  Patrick 
Copland,  David  Chamberlan.  Thomas  Reid  presented  a  library,  and 
added  a  salary  for  the  librarian.  The  library  was  afterwards  enlarged 
by  others,  who  presented  many  volumes  and  mathematical  instruments. 

There  have  hitherto  been  famous  in  this  College  Robert  Howie, 
William  Forbes,  Gilbert  Gray,  Patrick  Dun,  principals  ;  Robert  Barron, 
a  theologian  of  great  repute,  and  William  Johnstone,  a  famous  professor 
of  mathematics,  about  whom  we  have  spoken  above.  This  institution 
was  originally  distinct  from  the  University  of  Aberdeen,  and  ought 
more  truly  to  be  called  a  philosophical  school.  The  most  illustrious 
King  Charles  i.,  in  the  year  1641,  united  it  to  the  university,  and  ordered 
both  colleges  to  be  thenceforth  called  by  the  name  of  King  Charles's 
University.  This  college,  which  at  first  the  Marischal  called  Marischal 
College  after  his  own  name,  besides  a  librarian,  numbers  six  professors  or 
teachers  in  all :  theological  and  mathematical  professors  ;  three  readers 
in  philosophy,  of  whose  number  the  Principal,  teaching  the  Greek 
language,  is  one;  and  another  master  is  the  Professor  of  Humanity. 

The  Broad  Street  is  succeeded  by  Castle  Street,  which  is  approached 
by  the  row  commonly  called  the  Huckster  Wynd.  It  is  a  rectangular 
space,  of  a  hundred  paces  in  breadth  and  two  hundred  in  length,  nor,  so 
far  as  I  know,  does  Scotland  show  its  equal.  At  the  weekly  market  it 
affords  room  for  those  who  flock  together  from  the  vicinity.  One  corner 
of  the  street  is  occupied  and  taken  up  by  the  Townhouse,  founded  in  the 
year  1191,  and  not  very  long  ago  adorned  with  a  tower  and  pointed 
steeple  at  the  public  expense  of  the  townsmen  and  the  sheriffdom.  The 
Sheriff  Court  has  its  archives  here,  and  the  townspeople  their  council- 
chamber,  as  also  their  own  tribunal  and  that  of  the  sheriff  for  the 
administration  of  justice.  Here,  too,  are  the  prison  and  the  workhouse. 
This  seat  of  justice  was  once  notable  for  the  presence  of  the  Most  Illus- 
trious Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  who,  after  the  defeat  of  Huntly  at  Corrichie, 
was  an  interested  eyewitness,  not  without  a  sigh,  from  a  window  of  the 
Aberdeen  Townhouse,  when  the  young  captive  nobleman  John  Gordon, 
son  of  the  Earl  of  Huntly,  who  had  been  slain  two  days  before  that  time, 
was  beheaded  against  the  queen's  will,  though  she  dared  not  prevent  the 
execution.  Among  other  buildings  the  most  prominent  are  the  large 
mansions  of  the  Earl  Marischal  and  the  laird  of  Pitfodels.  In  this 
street  also  stand  two  crosses,  as  they  style  them,  of  which  the  higher, 
close  to  the  Townhouse,  is  usually  called  the  Flesh-cross,  because  the 
fleshmarket  is  near  it;  there  also  the  townspeople  are  wont  to  publish 
royal  proclamations  and  decrees  of  the  council,  and  to  perform  the 
public  acts  customary  on  court  days.  The  other  and  smaller  cross  is  the 
Fish-cross,  where  the  fishmarket  is  held  daily.  On  the  north  side  of  the 
street,  in  the  garden  grounds,  is  seen  the  indistinct  ruin,  covered  too  with 
brambles  and  brushwood,  of  the  house  of  the  Templar  Friars  of  old. 
^Nothing  further  that  can  be  relied  on  has  been  recovered  about  this, 
for  the  ruins  have  now  almost  perished.  The  hill  near  the  castle  is 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN  4,99 

approached  through  two  gates,  and  is  a  sandy  knoll  with  a  flat  top, 
exceeding  the  level  of  Castle  Street  by  no  great  height,  very  steep  where 
it  is  next  the  shore,  as  are  also  the  gardens  of  the  street  that  overhang 
the  shore.  Another  hillock  almost  adjoins  it,  called  the  Heading  Hill 
from  the  fact  that  in  a  narrow  path,  which  lies  between  the  slopes  of  the 
two  hills,  murderers  sometimes  pay  the  penalty  of  their  crimes  by  decapi- 
tation. The  two  heights  when  viewed  from  a  distance  appear  to  be 
a  continuous  hill.  The  old  Kings  of  Scots  placed  a  castle  on  this  hill,  to 
what  purpose  I  do  not  know,  since  nowhere  does  it  even  when  deeply  ex- 
cavated hold  out  any  hope  of  perennial  water,  as  the  English  recently  in 
garrison  there  found  to  be  true.  After  some  centuries  the  castle  was 
captured  by  the  citizens,  the  Englishmen  then  guarding  it  being  slain  or 
expelled  ;  and  lest  in  future  they  might  be  again  oppressed  with  the  yoke 
of  a  garrison  the  townspeople  levelled  it  with  the  ground.  In  its  place 
they  built  a  chapel  sacred  to  Ninian,  as  the  superstition  of  those  times 
-directed,  thinking  that  it  would  be  a  sacrilegious  sin  afterwards  to  turn 
that  hill  to  secular  uses,  since  it  had  thus  been  dedicated  to  a  sacred  use. 
The  chapel  still  exists,  but  it  is  empty ;  and,  where  it  looks  out  on  the 
sea  and  the  neighbouring  shores,  a  lighthouse  was  placed  of  old  to  be  a 
guide  and  lodestar  to  those  entering  the  harbour.  But  that  night 
beacon  was  neglected  and  extinguished  long  before  our  time.  In  the 
year  1654  Ninian  proved  no  defence  to  his  own  hill,  so  as  not  to  be 
enclosed,  himself  and  his  chapel-cell,  by  the  English  with  a  high  rampart 
and  stone-and-lime  wall  which  they  again  built.  But  that  shelter  hardly 
lasted  full  five  years,  when  by  order  of  the  most  illustrious  George,  Duke 
of  Albemarle,  in  the  end  of  the  year  1659  it  was  demolished  and  the  English 
garrison  recalled,  to  the  great  delight  and  advantage  of  the  townspeople. 

As  we  go  from  Castle  Street  towards  the  quay  we  cross  the  Exchequer 
Row,  so  called  of  old  because  the  Treasurer  and  Commissioners  of  the 
Royal  Treasury  here  had  their  office,  which  was  removed  from  hence 
many  generations  ago  ;  and  it  perhaps  strengthens  the  credibility  of 
this  that  there  exist  some  silver  coins  struck  at  Aberdeen  at  a  remote 
period  which  show  to  the  reader  on  one  face  the  inscription  Urbs  Aberdee, 
but  the  name  of  the  Row,  which  remains,  is  now  out  of  date. 

There  are  left  two  sloping  streets  that  lead  back  from  the  Broad 
Street  down  to  the  great  church  ;  of  these  one  is  called  the  Upper  Kirk- 
gate  arid  the  other  the  Nether  Kirkgate.  The  church  had  Nicolaus  as 
its  patron  of  old,  and  is  built  of  square-cut  stone  and  roofed  with  sheets 
of  lead.  A  steeple  bearing  the  form  of  a  pyramid  or  an  obelisk  rises 
high.  This  is  also  covered  with  sheets  of  lead,  and  makes  up  for  the 
low  situation  of  the  church.  There  is  nothing  else  in  Scotland  finer, 
and  though  founded  five  hundred  years  back,  it  is  all  bright,  and  kept  in 
such  repair  that  this  church  could  be  thought  to  have  been  erected 
recently.  It  was  divided  of  old  into  three  churches.  Tbe  largest  of 
these  is  the  old,  another  is  new,  and  the  third  is  vaulted.  It  was  there- 
fore then,  and  still  is,  called  the  Vault  of  our  Lady  of  Pity.  It  supports 
the  eastern  part  of  the  new  church.  The  floor,  dug  out  from  the  slope 


500  TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN 

of  the  graveyard,  makes  the  thresholds  of  the  doors  on  the  same  level 
with  itself,  nor  is  the  floor  of  the  upper  church  raised  by  the  height  of 
the  arching  except  three  steps  at  the  east  end,  so  wrought  that  they  are 
conducive  to  the  greater  adornment  of  the  church.  Each  of  the  upper 
churches  is  supported  by  two  rows  of  stone  pillars,  being  constructed 
with  wings  on  both  sides,  and  has  a  carved  ceiling  closed  with  oaken 
boards.  The  building  of  the  old  church  was  begun  by  the  townspeople 
in  the  year  1060,  and  it  was  gradually  enlarged  and  enriched  with  gifts. 
Three  bells  of  great  weight  mark  the  half-hours  with  three  consecutive 
notes  several  times  repeated.  Two  of  these,  as  also  the  clock,  were  the 
gift  of  William  Leith  of  Barns,  provost  of  the  city  in  the  year  1313. 
In  the  two  churches  the  leading  families  of  the  townspeople  have  monu- 
ments and  tombs  ;  so  also  have  some  who  reside  in  the  neighbourhood, 
of  whose  number  are  Lord  Forbes,  chief  of  the  Clan  Forbes,  Irvine  of 
Drum,  a  knight,  and  Menzies  of  Pitfodels.  Here  also  lies  buried 
the  physician  Duncan  Liddel,  with  a  monument  having  on  it  a  brass 
plate  and  an  epitaph,  not  more  laudatory  than  the  merits  of  so  great 
a  man  required,  inscribed  on  the  brass.  The  new  church,  whose 
building  was  commenced  in  the  year  1478,  was  finished  in  the  year  1493, 
at  the  expense  of  the  citizens.  It  was  within  a  little  of  being  destroyed 
in  the  year  1560,  had  not  the  citizens  defended  it  with  arms,  and  resisted 
the  attempt.  In  our  time  the  vaulted  church  serves  for  the  storage  of 
logs,  beams,  lead,  and  materials  of  that  kind  for  the  church.  When  the 
Papal  hierarchy  was  being  expelled  from  Aberdeen,  the  furniture  of 
both  churches  was  sold  by  auction,  and  its  value,  amounting  to  one 
hundred  and  forty-two  pounds  Scots,  was  handed  over  to  the  treasurer, 
Patrick  Menzies  by  name.  He  was  instructed  to  pay  it  into  the  trea- 
sury, though  some  citizens  objected  in  vain  to  that  being  done,  and  pro- 
tested by  public  instrument  in  the  year  1562. 

But  afterwards,  on  the  8th  May  of  the  same  year,  an  act  was  passed 
that  this  money  should  be  spent  for  public  purposes.  When  the  Papacy 
flourished  there  were  numbered  in  these  three  churches  thirty  altars. 
dedicated,  as  the  custom  is  in  the  Papacy,  to  separate  saints,  with  revenues 
attached  to  each.  To  enumerate  their  names,  as  at  the  present  day  even 
the  faintest  traces  do  not  survive,  would,  I  think,  be  offensive  to  many, 
and  annoying  to  most.  The  two  churches,  which  are  separated  by  a 
substantial  wall,  are  beautifully  and  in  every  way  similarly  furnished, 
with  elegant  pews,  seats,  and  benches,  wainscotted  and  mostly  gilded. 
Lastly,  the  whole  building  is  surrounded  by  a  yard  or  cemetery  planted 
about  with  many  tall  ash-trees.  Adjoining  the  cemetery  is  the  Music 
School,  and  close  to  this  the  Grammar  School.  The  citizens  pay  the 
annual  salaries  of  the  masters  except  the  fees.  Patrick  Dun,  a  physician, 
and  lately  Principal  of  Marischal  College,  presented  his  suburban 
estate  of  Ferryhill  to  the  Grammar  School  in  order  that  for  the  future 
four  uudermasters  might  be  maintained  in  the  seminary  from  its  annual 
rent.  Next  the  school  follows  the  college  of  the  Dominicans.  Its 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN  501 

bounds,  embracing  all  the  space  that  lies  between  the  Grammar  School 
and  the  Woolman-hill  as  far  as  the  loch,  are  still  seen,  enclosed  within 
a  very  high,  but  for  the  most  part  ruined  wall.  That  monastery  was  on 
January  4,  1560,  together  with  its  church,  so  completely  overthrown 
»  foundations  that  not  even  the  slightest  trace  survives.  The 
dwellings  of  some  inhabitants  are  conspicuous  enough.  Nevertheless 
they  rose  from  its  stones. 

With  a  lane  lying  between,  near  the  east  gable  of  the  new  church, 
there  is  an  old  men's  almshouse  meant  for  maintaining  citizens  of  Aber- 
deen afflicted  with  poverty.  It  was  once  a  chapel  dedicated  to  St. 
Thomas.  Near  this  another  was  very  recently  erected  by  the  dyers  of 
Aberdeen  at  their  own  expense.  The  hill  which  is  called  St.  Catherine's 
Hill,  being  surrounded  by  buildings,  gardens,  and  a  continuous  street, 
does  not  show  itself  to  people  walking  in  the  neighbouring  streets,  as 
the  objects  near  the  hill  within  the  city  are  as  high  as  its  top  ;  this 
eminence,  however,  looks  down  on  the  whole  of  the  suburb  which  is- 
called  the  Green,  and  opens  to  those  standing  on  it  a  view  of  the  church 
of  St.  Nicolaus,  the  mouth  of  the  Dee,  the  village  of  Torry,  the  sea-coast, 
and  the  mountains,  plains,  and  fields  of  Aberdeenshire  towards  the  west 
and  north.  Its  name  was  given  to  it  from  the  chapel  dedicated  of  old 
to  St.  Catherine,  which  stood  on  its  summit  and  was  built  in  the  year 
1242  at  the  expense  of  the  Constable  of  Aberdeen;  but  what  the 
founder's  name  was  I  do  not  find. 

The  Den  Burn,  as  it  is  named,  flows  past  the  city  on  the  west.  Its 
bank,  near  a  small  stone  bridge  where  the  burn  enters  the  Dee,  was 
formerly  occupied  by  the  Carmelite  Friars,  whose  church,  with  all  their 
buildings,  was  completely  demolished  on  the  very  same  day  when  the 
other  monasteries  of  Aberdeen  perished.  A  single  vault  which  remains, 
called  the  Friars'  Kiln,  marks  the  southern  corner  of  Aberdeen. 

The  Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity  is  situated  on  the  actual  bank  of  the 
estuary.  Adjacent  to  it  is  the  almshouse  of  the  Aberdeen  Trades,  built 
by  King  William,  and  afterwards  gifted  to  the  Friars  of  the  Order  of  the 
Holy  Trinity,  who  were  expelled  many  years  ago.  Their  ruined  church 
and  the  neighbouring  house  began  to  be  restored  in  the  year  1630,  at 
the  expense  of  the  Aberdeen  Trades  and  the  learned  William  Guild,  who 
also  dedicated  a  catechist's  salary  to  this  church. 

After  passing  several  houses  we  come  to  the  quay  or  pier,  built  oi 
square-cut  stone  in  1526,  in  the  provostship  of  Gilbert  Menzies  of  Findon, 
and  subsequently,  in  the  year  1562,  enlarged  and  repaired.  The  price  of 
the  furniture  of  St.  Nicolaus's  Church  was  expended  on  that  work  by 
the  treasurer,  P.  Menzies,  with  the  consent  of  the  townspeople.  In  the 
year  1634  a  custom-house  was  built  on  the  pier.  Thence  it  runs  down 
towards  the  village  of  Footdee  for  five  hundred  paces,  and  joins  the 
village.  It  had  been  the  work  of  many  years,  and  was  frequently 
interrupted.  A  dike,  consisting  of  stone  walls  heaped  up  with  sand, 
\vas  finished  at  last  with  great  labour  in  the  year  1659,  by  which  it  was 


502  TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN 

brought  about  that  a  large  piece  of  ground,  ever  previously  exposed  to 
the  tide,  and  till  then  an  inlet  of  the  raging  sea,  has,  as  the  salt  water  is 
kept  back,  become  most  productive  of  corn  and  vegetables. 

The  village  of  Footdee  terminates  the  quay,  and  extends  for  four 
hundred  paces  southward  as  far  as  the  bank  of  the  river  Dee.  It  is  the 
abode  of  sailors  and  fishermen,  and  near  the  village  are  docks.  It  has 
also  a  church  of  its  own,  which  was  founded  at  the  instance  of  the  Aber- 
donians  in  the  year  1498,  and  called  Clement's  Church.  Recently  a 
certain  citizen  of  Aberdeen  surrounded  the  graveyard  of  this  church  with 
a  wall.  Near  the  village  is  the  roadstead  for  pinnaces.  As  we  proceed 
farther  to  the  cape  named  Sandness,  a  chambered  fort  is  seen,  built  in 
the  year  1542,  to  repel  hostile  raids  by  sea  from  the  mouth  of  the  Dee 
near  it,  with  brass  cannon  mounted  there,  or  at  any  rate  that  the 
attempts  of  pirates  might  be  watched  from  this  as  from  a  tower.  This 
rude  work  the  Aberdonians  finished  in  the  year  1542,  and  in  the  same 
•year  the  mouth  of  the  Dee  was  closed  with  chains  and  iron  and  wooden 
barriers  placed  in  the  water,  and  was  opened  and  shut  at  their  will. 
Opposite  the  fort,  on  the  other  bank  of  the  river,  stood  a  watch-tower, 
of  which  traces  are  even  yet  visible,  in  a  high  position.  There  a  bell 
was  hung,  and  a  man  was  in  constant  attendance,  who,  whenever  he  saw 
ships,  had  to  give  a  signal  with  the  bell.  But  this  custom  is  obsolete, 
and  the  block-house  itself  is  not  used  as  an  outpost,  except  by  a  picked 
town  guard  when  the  citizens  are  in  a  state  of  great  alarm  from  the  fear 
of  enemies  or  of  the  sudden  descent  of  pirates.  Beyond  the  mouth  of  the 
River  Dee  southward,  a  headland  juts  out  for  a  mile  into  the  German 
Ocean.  It  is  the  eastern  limit  of  the  Grampian  range  which  crosses 
Scotland,  running  out  from  hence  towards  Glasgow,  and  branching  into 
many  a  steep  and  winding  tract  of  mountain,  forest,  and  hill. 

To  ships  entering  the  harbour  there  arises  no  inconsiderable  danger 
from  a  sandbank  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  river,  nor  can  the  port  be 
safely  entered  even  when  the  tide  is  favourable,  unless  with  skilful  pilots 
who  know  the  shoals ;  in  other  respects  it  is  capable  of  receiving  many 
ships.  War  vessels  and  merchantmen  of  the  largest  size  ride  at  anchor 
in  the  channel  of  the  Dee  at  the  village  ofTorry;  other  smaller  ships 
can  enter  the  estuary  up  to  the  village  of  Footdee,  or  with  a  favourable 
wind  and  tide  may  reach  the  quay  at  the  city  itself,  where  they  land  or 
receive  merchandise.  The  mouth  of  the  river,  which  is  very  narrow,  is 
still  more  contracted  by  the  pier  belonging  to  itself,  and  consisting  of  a 
stone  wall  with  tying  beams  inserted.  The  estuary  is  spacious  when  the 
tide  flows,  but  when  the  sea  recedes  it  appears  as  dry  laud  with  the 
exception  of  the  channel  of  the  Dee  ;  again  with  the  advancing  tide  it  is 
all  covered  with  water,  save  some  unimportant  islands  on  which  the 
salmon-fishers  have  .huts  for  storing  salmon.  These  men  catch  salmon 
every  day  overagainst  the  town  when  the  tide  ebbs,  and  the  fish  are  the 
best  of  any.  Even  the  French  prefer  them  to  others ;  and  from  this 
trade  no  contemptible  gain  accrues  to  the  city  every  year.  But  so  far 


TRANSLATION:  ABERDEEN  503 

as  concerns  the  main  portion  of  the  estuary,  it  is  accessible  only  for  pin- 
naces, fishing  boats,  and  other  small  craft.  The  eastern  side  of  the  town 
and  the  village  of  Footdee  are  bounded  by  fields  rich  in  corn  crops,  vege- 
tables, and  leguminous  plants  of  all  kinds.  This  ground  ends  in  an 
extensive  green  plain  which  is  called  by  the  name  of  the  Queen's  Links 
—why  I  do  not  know.  The  links  by  the  seaside  stretch  almost  between 
the  mouths  of  the  two  rivers,  and  there  various  sports  are  practised,  such 
as  football,  golf,  bowls.  Here  also  people  stroll  every  day  for  the  sake 
of  their  health.  Beyond  these  links  is  the  level  and  sandy  beach,  afford- 
ing when  the  tide  is  out  a  grand  space  of  two  miles  in  length  for  the 
racing  of  high-mettled  horses. 

Where  Old  Aberdeen  is  approached  by  the  Gallowgate,  and  almost 
midway  between  the  two  towns,  near  the  road,  stood  of  old  the  Spital, 
appointed  for  those  suffering  from  leprosy,  and  the  Chapel  of  St. 
Anne,  the  patroness  of  people  ill  of  that  disease,  was  added  at  the 
expense  of  Mr.  Alexander  Galloway,  by  the  permission  of  the  citizens  of 
Aberdeen,  in  the  year  1519.  The  road  preserves  the  name.  Both 
buildings  have  been  removed. 

Two  miles  from  the  town,  travellers  to  the  south  come  to  the  bridge 
over  the  River  Dee.  The  piers  are  eight  in  all,  united  by  seven  arches 
of  square-cut  stone.  Scotland  shows  none  more  beautiful.  It  was 
founded  at  the  expense  of  William  Elphinstone,  Bishop  of  Aberdeen, 
about  the  year  1518.  The  work  was  superintended  by  Gavin  Dunbar, 
his  executor,  who  on  the  completion  of  the  bridge  in  the  year  1527  gifted 
his  estate  of  Ardlair  to  the  people  of  Aberdeen,  so  that  with  its  annual 
rents  the  fall  of  the  bridge  should  be  provided  against  for  the  future,  or 
if  damaged  it  should  be  repaired.  Near  the  bridge  also  stood  the  chapel 
of  the  tutelar  Mary,  which  too  was  destroyed  in  the  last  century,  while 
the  bridge  is  still  safe. 

As  regards  the  political  government  of  the  city,  it  is  provided  in  the 
royal  charters  that  the  provost  of  the  city  should  be  elected  every  year 
from  the  ranks  of  the  citizens,  and  in  addition,  four  judges-substitute  or 
bailies,  as  they  call  them,  a  treasurer,  a  dean  of  guild  to  look  after  the 
buildings,  and  a  fixed  number  of  citizens.  To  the  councillors  existing  at 
the  time  the  sole  right  of  voting  and  choosing  their  successors  was  given. 
Thus  citizens  eminent  for  their  good  qualities  have  the  hope  and  oppor- 
tunity of  discharging  public  offices  in  turn  ;  and  men  born  in  no  humble 
position  have  hitherto  filled  the  provostship  of  the  city,  of  whose  number 
the  Menzies  lairds  of  Pitfodels  have  frequently  been  at  the  head  of  affairs 
with  the  highest  distinction.  With  this  family  also  not  a  few  notable 
townsmen  and  citizens  count  it  an  honour  to  be  connected  by  blood  or 
affinity.  Nay  more,  in  the  year  1545  George  Gordon  of  Huntly,  indis- 
putably the  leading  man  in  all  the  north  of  Scotland,  undertook  the 
provostship  of  the  city.  His  father  also,  in  the  year  1462,  by  concluding 
an  agreement  lasting  for  ten  years  with  the  Aberdonians,  had  secured 
them  as  his  allies  in  arms. 


504  TRANSLATION:  OLD  ABERDEEN 

The  city  has  not  a  few  traders  who  export  and  distribute  for  sale 
salmon,  linen  and  woollen  cloth,  ox-skins,  sheepskins  and  even  foxskins, 
and  whatever  the  country  round  about  produces.  They  either  sell  these 
in  Norway,  Sweden,  Denmark,  Pomerania,  Germany,  Holland,  Spain, 
and  the  neighbouring  England,  or  exchange  trade  with  these  countries. 
It  is  also  peculiar  to  the  citizens  of  Aberdeen  and  of  the  town  of  Ayr, 
apart  from  the  other  towns  of  Scotland,  that  artisans  are  debarred  from 
rights  of  trading  and  citizenship,  so  that  frequently  disputes  and  some- 
times civil  disturbances  arise  between  citizens  and  artisans,  as  the  work- 
men agitate  in  vain,  and  the  citizens  defend  the  ancient  privilege  of  the 
municipality.  Their  other  rights  they  hold  in  common  with  the 
remaining  cities  of  Scotland. 

The  arms  of  the  city  are  three  castles  argent  described  on  a  scarlet  or 
purple  field  enclosed  with  a  double  tressor  intersected  with  numerous 
iris  flowers  or  white  lilies  mutually  obverted,  and  supported  by  two 
leopards,  the  motto  being  the  French  words  '  Bon  Accord,'  which  means 
the  same  as  peace  among  fellow-citizens.  They  were  ordered  to  adopt  this 
by  David  Bruce,  King  of  Scots,  about  the  time  when  the  Aberdonians 
gained  the  garrison-castle  for  the  city,  expelling  the  English,  after  they 
had  held  it  from  the  time  of  Edward  i.,  King  of  England,  who  was  also 
the  builder  of  the  castle.  The  leader  of  the  enterprise  was  Kennedy, 
the  laird  of  Kearmuick,  whose  descendants  received  as  a  distinction,  in 
perpetual  remembrance  of  the  event,  the  honorary  title  of  Constables  of 
Aberdeen,  although  this  title  is  now  extinct. 

To  the  ground-plan  of  the  town  of  Aberdeen  I  have  added  a  View  or 
Western  Prospect,  such  as,  when  delineating  Edinburgh,  1  made  in  two 
pictures  ;  about  which  matter  I  should  like  to  warn  purchasers  that  the 
engraver  has  imposed  both  on  the  buyer  and  myself,  since,  while  he 
enlarged  both  pictures  of  the  Prospect  of  Edinburgh,  consulting  his  own 
advantage  and  profit  more  than  the  truth  of  the  representation,  he 
engraved  both  quite  different  from  my  original,  and  what  is  worse,  from 
the  city  of  Edinburgh  ;  or  rather  he  invented  and  fabricated  them  anew. 

OLD  ABERDEEN 

is  distant  one  Italian  mile  north  from  New  Aberdeen,  and,  between  the 
crosses,  as  they  call  them,  of  the  two  towns,  those  going  by  road  reckon 
it  a  distance  of  one  Scots  mile.  The  village  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
pleasant  and  fruitful  fields  or  hillocks,  with  many  pastures  lying  between 
them.  It  has  no  municipal  rights.  Any  merchants  that  may  be  there 
trade  by  permission  of  the  people  of  the  New  Town.  It  should,  in  reality, 
be  considered  a  village  or  hamlet  or  burgh  of  barony.  Its  founder  is 
affirmed  by  some  author  to  have  been  Evenius  n.,  King  of  Scots,  about 
the  year  of  the  world  .3894.  It  first  came  into  notice  by  the  translation 
thither  of  the  Episcopal  See  from  the  village  of  Murthlac,  where  still 
the  parish  church  is  seen  near  the  Castle  of  Balvany.  The  royal  charter 


TRANSLATION:  OLD  ABERDEEN  505 

by  which  David,  King-  of  Scots,  gifted  the  whole  village  of  Old  Aberdeen 
to  the  Bishop  of  Aberdeen  is  still  in  existence.  Alexander,  the  first  of 
that  name,  King-  of  Scots,  in  the  year  of  Christ  1122,  then  first  removed 
the  Episcopal  See  to  Aberdeen,  and  afterwards  it  is  clear  that  the  village 
grew  by  the  addition  of  the  University.  The  river  Don  touches  the 
northern  boundary  of  the  town.  This  river  is  well  known  from  its 
salmon  and  pearl  fishing-.  Single  pearls,  not  to  be  despised,  are  thus 
found  in  certain  mussels.  From  this  river  also  the  village  received  its 
name.  The  great  church  called  Machar's  overhangs  a  bend  of  the  Don, 
which  winds  by.  Of  old  they  called  it  a  cathedral,  but  now  it  is  a 
parish  church.  It  is  built  of  squared  stone,  and  is  of  noble  proportions 
and  size.  Its  first  foundations  were  laid  by  Henry  Cheyne,  Bishop  of 
Aberdeen,  in  the  year  of  Christ  1320.  The  work  was  interrupted  by 
his  banishment,  the  reason  for  which  was  that  he  had  joined  his  rebellious 
uncle,  Comyn.  The  abandoned  work  was  forwarded  by  Alexander 
Keaninmonth,  the  thirteenth  in  order  of  the  Bishops  of  Aberdeen,  in 
1333,  the  year  in  which  New  Aberdeen  was  burned.  The  English  also 
plundered  the  furniture  of  this  bishop  and  his  canons.  Henry  Leighton, 
Bishop  of  Aberdeen,  afterwards  built  this  church  to  the  full  height  of 
the  walls,  and  adorned  it  with  the  two  pointed  towers.  In  the  year  of 
Christ  1440  Ingram  Lindsay,  Henry's  successor,  added  the  raftering, 
and  laid  the  floor  with  tesselated  pavement.  VV7illiam  Elphinstone 
ordered  the  largest  square  tower  or  steeple  to  be  built,  roofed  the 
church  with  sheets  of  lead,  and  enriched  it  with  three  bells,  weighing 
12,000  pounds.  The  south  aisle,  as  they  call  it,  also  of  square-cut 
stone,  was  added  by  his  successor,  Gavin  Dunbar.  The  sacred  building 
was  in  former  times  made  notable  by  two  rows  of  stone  pillars,  another  cross 
church,  and  three  towers,  the  largest  of  these  resting  on  arched  work, 
supported  by  four  pillars.  Nor  was  the  furniture  out  of  keeping  with  this. 
It  included  crosses,  chalices,  ecclesiastical  vessels,  and  other  articles  of 
that  sort,  made  of  gold  or  silver,  adorned  with  many  various  and  costly 
inlaid  gems,  and  of  great  weight.  The  chasubles,  cassocks,  and  all  the 
priests'  vestments  in  use  at  that  time  were  of  silk,  and  were  displayed 
in  more  than  regal  magnificence,  embroidered  in  colours,  and  gleaming 
with  jewels,  or  braided  with  gold.  The  quantity  of  gold  and  silver  plate 
one  could  scarcely  credit,  did  not  an  old  manuscript  confirm  the  estimate 
in  detail.  Jn  this  church  also  there  was  a  library,  but  in  the  year  15(50 
everything  was  destroyed  or  removed.  Most  of  the  library  was  burned, 
for  wherever  a  volume  had  a  rubric  round  it  the  people  vented  their 
rage  against  it  with  avenging  fire  as  savouring  of  superstition.  The 
great  tower  was  the  first  to  suffer  by  being  stripped  of  its  leaden  roof, 
and  succumbed  not  many  years  afterwards  to  the  violence  of  a  terrible 
storm.  The  choir  of  the  church  was  completely  wrecked.  At  the 
present  day  the  shell  of  the  old  building  is  covered  with  slates,  and 
is  hardly  kept  from  becoming  ruinous  by  the  townspeople.  Besides 
the  monuments  of  Bishops  Leighton  and  Dunbar,  the  Marquis  of 


506  TRANSLATION:  OLD  ABERDEEN 

Huntly  has  his  ancestral  burial  vault  here  also.  And,  lastly,  this  church 
was  recently  honoured  with  the  interment  of  the  illustrious  young  noble- 
man, Lord  George  Gordon,  eldest  son  of  the  Marquis  of  Huntly,  who 
fell  fighting1  bravely  at  Alford  village,  on  2nd  July  1645. 

Next  to  the  church  of  St.  Machar,  on  the  west  side,  stands  the  alms- 
house,  formerly  dedicated  to  the  maintenance  of  twelve  poor  men  by 
Gavin  Dunbar :  their  doles  are  much  diminished  in  our  time,  and  the 
aged  inmates  barely  support  life  there  like  beggars.  The  west  side  of 
the  churchyard  was  bounded  of  old  by  the  noble  palace  of  the  Bishop  of 
Aberdeen  :  a  high  wall  separated  its  gardens  and  buildings  from  the 
neighbouring  and  adjacent  town.  Alexander  Keaninmonth,  Bishop  of 
Aberdeen,  caused  it  to  be  erected,  but  to-day,  with  the  exception  of  the 
garden,  hardly  a  single  stone  of  so  great  a  lodging  remains.  In  the  year 
1039,  when  the  famous  AdamBellandine,  at  that  time  bishop,  was  expelled,, 
it  became  the  prey  of  the  Covenanters'  soldiery,  and  all  was  then  torn 
down,  and  destroyed  or  plundered,  except  the  walls.  In  the  year  l(!oo 
the  English  pulled  down  even  the  walls,  and  forced  the  people  in  the 
neighbourhood  to  convey  the  stones  to  the  Castlehill  in  the  New  Town. 
Any  timber  or  rubble  left  was  taken  to  the  King's  College  in  the  year 
1657.  Adjoining  the  bishop's  mansion  were  the  chaplains'  chambers,  so 
called  of  old,  structures  in  a  square,  partly  ruinous.  Whatever  remains 
has  passed  to  others.  A  very  small  portion  was  bought  by  the  learned  John 
Forbes,  laird  of  Corse  and  Professor  of  Theology ;  and  though  in  the 
year  1640  he  was  deposed  from  his  chair  by  the  Covenanters,  he  notwith- 
standing dedicated  that  house  to  the  professors  of  theology.  Opposite 
the  church  and  also  the  college  of  St.  Marcar  were  situated  the  lodgings 
of  the  canons  of  Aberdeen,  most  of  them  now  in  ruins.  One  of  these 
in  particular,  of  bad  repute  for  many  years,  as  tenanted  by  ghosts  and 
evil  spirits,  was  also  removed  by  the  English  from  the  foundation. 
Another,  which  is  close  to  the  gate  called  after  the  canons,  was  enlarged 
about  the  year  1622  at  the  expense  of  the  learned  Alexander  Gordon  of 
Cluiiy  by  the  addition  of  a  new  balcony,  adorned  with  many  varied  panel- 
lings, and  has  the  largest  and  most  delightful  garden  in  all  Aberdeen. 
The  rest  of  the  houses  are  owned  and  occupied  by  the  townspeople,  since 
the  order  of  canons  has  long  been  abolished  as  savouring  of  Popery. 

The  King's  College  of  Aberdeen,  situated  at  the  south  end  of  the 
village,  is  very  conspicuous  among  the  rest  of  the  buildings.  Scotland 
boasts  of  no  other  college  of  grander  or  more  beautiful  construction. 
One  side  of  the  quadrangle  is  designedly  roofed  with  slates,  the  other 
sides  with  lead.  The  church  and  the  tower,  or  steeple,  are  built  of 
square-cut  stone ;  the  stained-glass  windows  were  once  very  fine,  and 
traces  of  their  former  beauty  remain.  The  monument  of  William 
Elphinstone  in  the  church  shows  a  beautiful  tomb  of  Lydian  stone.  A 
statue  and  thirteen  images  of  gilt  brass  that  stood  round  it  were  lontr 
ago  plundered  and  sold.  The  tower  has  thirteen  bells,  two  of  which 
cannot  easily  be  equalled  in  size,  and  its  top  is  vaulted  with  two  arches 


OLD  ABERDEEN  507 

that  cross.  This  is  finished  with  a  royal  crown  of  octagonal  shape,  sup- 
ported by  as  many  stone  columns.  Surmounting  the  crown  and  completing 
the  structure  is  a  stone  globe  with  a  double  gilt  cross  rising  high,  this 
emblem  as  it  were  signifying  that  it  is  the  King's  College.  In  the  year 
1631  it  was  thrown  down  by  the  force  of  a  great  storm,  but  it  was  at 
once  restored  on  a  grander  scale  under  the  auspices  of  the  learned  Patrick 
Forbes,  Bishop  of  Aberdeen,  and  the  superintendence  of  the  learned 
William  Gordon,  doctor  of  medicine.  This  work  was  forwarded  by  the 
liberal  contributions  of  not  a  few  noblemen  living  in  the  surrounding 
districts. 

The  library  adjoins  the  church,  and  was  well  filled  with  many  volumes, 
but  most  of  them  were  stolen  or  taken  away  by  dishonest  keepers.  It 
has  now  been  replenished  and  added  to  anew  by  the  liberality  of  private 
individuals.  Next  to  it  is  the  muniment-room,  where  the  charters 
of  the  University  are  kept  as  of  old.  It  contained  in  addition  many 
valuable  articles  which  were  long  ago  plundered  by  robbers.  Close  to 
this  is  the  assessors'  house,  now  supplying  the  place  of  a  lecture-room. 
The  public  lecture-room  and  the  refectory,  as  they  are  called, 
take  up  one  whole  side  of  the  quadrangle.  Above  the  former  is  the 
principal  hall,  as  they  call  it,  beautiful  and  bright.  Two  towers 
with  spires  terminate  the  south  side.  After  the  year  1631  the  quad- 
rangle was  closed  and  completed  by  the  addition  of  a  new  building. 
This,  preserving  the  laws  of  proportion  and  architecture,  overtops  the 
main  building  and  has  a  level  roof  with  a  parapet.  The  professors  of  the 
University,  in  times  that  were  by  no  means  peaceable,  ventured  on  this 
undertaking,  being  encouraged  in  the  work  by  the  highly  accomplished 
young  man  Patrick  Sandilands,  the  sub-principal.  Until  the  work  was 
finished  each  of  the  masters  paid  something  out  of  his  own  income  and 
salary ;  and  according  as  the  circumstances  of  the  times,  drained  with 
exactions,  permitted,  many  noblemen,  and  almost  all  the  clergymen,  in 
the  north  of  Scotland  contributed  to  the  expense  from  their  private 
resources.  But  now,  since  the  happy  restoration  of  the  Most  Serene 
King  Charles  n.  in  the  year  1660,  it  has  been  granted,  on  the  representa- 
tions at  Court  of  Andrew  Moore,  Doctor  of  Medicine  and  a  most  learned 
professor,  that  the  Treasury  should  pay  even  on  the  king's  own  account 
as  much  as  should  suffice  for  the  completion  of  the  work. 

The  foundation  of  the  whole  structure,  as  it  rests  on  yielding  and  wet 
soil,  was  laid  on  oaken  piles  at  great  expense  and  trouble.  And,  as 
the  reader  should  here  note,  all  the  houses  or  bridges  that  Aberdeen 
possesses  are  built  of  square-cut  stone.  They  procure  stones  for  building 
these  from  quarries  situated  on  the  Firth  of  Forth  or  in  Moray!;  nay 
even,  the  Aberdonians  convey  by  sea  all  the  slates,  logs,  beams  and  lime 
from  distant  places.  But  to  return  to  my  subject. 

The  Grammar  School  is  situated  near  the  College,  and  also,  opposite 
the  University,  the  professors'  houses  stand  about.  Some  of  these  are 
demolished,  others  ruinous,  and  the  rest  are  kept  roofed  and  in  repair. 


508  TRANSLATION:  OLD  ABERDEEN 

The  building  of  this  college  was  begun  011  the  2nd  April  in  the  year 
1500,  under  the  auspices  of  James  iv.,  King  of  Scots,  as  is  also  testified 
by  the  old  inscription  on  the  gable  of  the  church.  It  was  undertaken  by 
the  famous  and  learned  Bishop  William  Elphinstone,  and  at  his  expense, 
and  in  the  space  of  twelve  years  in  all  thereafter  the  work  was  completed 
by  his  executor,  Gavin  Dunbar.  The  Most  Illustrious  King  undertook  its 
patronage,  and  gave  it  the  name  of  the  King's  College.  The  Roman 
Pontiffs  Alexander  vi.  and  Julius  n.  granted  it  the  enjoyment  of  rights 
and  privileges  equal  to  those  of  the  Universities  of  Paris  and  Bologna, 
being  liberal  with  what  it  is  plain  they  could  not  keep  back,  and  it 
rejoices  in  these  at  the  present  day,  but  with  a  better  title,  as  they  are 
secured  by  law.  The  founder,  Elphinstone,  appointed  that  forty-two 
in  all  should  hold  public  offices  and  benefits,  each  of  whom  should  be 
maintained  by  separate  salaries,  of  whose  number  there  are  four  pro- 
fessors of  theology,  one  of  civil  law,  with  the  addition  of  another  pro- 
fessor of  canon  law,  a  mediciner,  a  professor  of  Humanity,  one  to  teach 
the  elements  of  music  and  to  be  also  public  precentor,  three  teachers  of 
philosophy,  a  professor  of  the  Greek  language,  and  twelve  scholars 
in  theology  and  philosophy.  The  founder  bequeathed  the  office  of 
Chancellor  to  his  successors,  and  he  ordained  that  the  Rector  of  the 
University  should  be  chosen  anew  every  year  ;  but  some  of  these  officials 
have  been  romoved,  and  the  appointments  of  some  have  been  changed. 
A  professor  of  theology  (with  a  salary)  was  recently  added. 

The  income  of  the  University,  formerly  large,  was  afterwards  diminished, 
and  again  in  our  age  not  a  little  increased.  Since  its  foundation  it  has 
been  the  trainer  and  nurse  of  many  famous  intellects.  It  was  made 
celebrated  by,  among  others,  Hector  Boece,  a  native  of  Dundee,  the  first 
in  order  of  its  principals,  an  historian  ;  William  Leslie,  lately  principal, 
and,  while  he  lived,  a  man  of  profound  learning ;  and  John  Forbes  of 
Corse,  a  most  learned  professor  of  theology. 

As  we  go  from  the  College  towards  the  New  Town  the  ruins  of  a  parish 
church  formerly  called  that  of  St.  Mary  at  the  Snows  are  barely 
recognisable,  but  its  founder  and  beginnings  are  unknown.  There  are 
also  those  of  a  second  a  little  farther  on.  It  was  a  church  sacred  to 
Peter,  situated  near  the  road,  and  called  the  Church  of  the  Spital.  It 
also  is  now  removed,  and  nothing  is  known  of  its  founder. 

The  bridge  over  the  river  Don  remains  to  be  described,  standing  five 
hundred  paces  or  thereabout  north  of  Old  Aberdeen,  and  joining  the 
banks  of  the  river  with  a  single,  but  very  wide  arch,  nor  could  you  easily 
find  one  like  it,  with  its  substructure  mostly  of  stone  dressed  and  squared. 
Both  its  abutments  are  fixed  in  position  on  a  rocky  foundation,  and  with  a 
curve  break  the  force  of  the  strong  current.  One  might  say  that  nature 
pointed  out  the  site  for  the  bridge.  From  hence  the  Don  runs  in  a 
straight  course  to  the  sea.  There  is  a  tradition,  however,  that  the  Don 
in  ancient  times  turned  towards  the  seaside  hillock,  which  is  also  called 
the  Broad  Hill,  and  discharged  its  tributary  waters  into  the  German 


LENGTHT  OF  SCOTLAND  509 

Ocean  near  the  base  of  that  hill.  A  narrow  and  elongated  loch  with 
high  ground  on  its  far  side  by  the  sea  makes  this  credible,  [and]  is  said 
to  have  been  part  of  the  actual  river  bed.  And  there  are  some  old  maps 
of  Scotland  that  show  the  mouth  of  the  Don  thus.  Who  the  builder  of 
the  bridge  across  the  river  was,  no  one  knows.  It  is  said  that  the 
gallant  King  Robert  the  Bruce,  when  he  expelled  Henry  Cheyne,  Bishop 
of  Aberdeen,  from  his  Episcopal  see,  and  indeed  from  Scotland,  ordered 
the  annual  revenues  of  this  bishop  to  be  devoted  to  pious  uses,  and  that 
part  of  that  money  was  spent  on  the  building  of  this  fine  bridge,  which  is 
also  probable.  Now  let  this  be  what  according  to  my  purpose  1  have 
said  about  the  two  towns  of  Aberdeen. 


NOATES    and    OBSERVATIONS    of  dyvers  parts  434. 
of    the    HIELANDS    and    ISLES     of 
SCOTLAND. 

ANENT  the  lengtht  of  SCOTLAND. 

Dungisbie  head  in  Catnes,  the  most  nordern  poynt  in  Scot- 
land, differeth  from  Invernes.  upon  a  lyne  of  just  south  and 
north — 63  myles  but  there  is  much  more  ground  betwix 
them  to  go  the  hie  way. 

Dungisbee  head  and  Elgyn  differ  in  a  right  lyne  of  north 
and  south  be — 55  myles. 

Peterhead  lyeth  be  south  Elgyne  upon  a  straight  lyne — 
10  myle. 

Abirdeen  lyeth  be  south  Peterhead  upon  a  straight  lyne 
of  north  and  south — 18  myles. 

Dundee  lyeth  be  South  Abirdeen  upon  a  straicht  lyne 
of  North  &  South— 32  myles. 

Edinburgh  lyeth  be  south  Dundee  upon  a  straicht  lyne 
conforme  to  the  former  count — 25  myles 

South  Berwick  at  Tweed  mouth  do  ly  upon  a  straicht  lyne 
more  south  then  Edinburgh — 20  myles. 

The  latitude  of  Barwick  according  to  Cambden  and  the 
English  mens  account  is  —55  gr.  48  M. 

The  length  of  Scotland  upon  the  East  coast  from  Dungisbie- 
head  to  Barwick  upon  a  straicht  lyne  of  North  and  South  is 
160  myles.  but  upon  the  Westsyde  it  is  much  more  to 


510  COWELT, 

Sulway    firth    and   Eskmouth    for   theis    ly    upon   Southwest- 
ward  from  Barwick 

Latitude  of  Dungisbiehead,  according  to  Mr  Timothie  Pont 
his  setting  down  is  58  gr.  32  M. 

The  nordermost  poynt  of  all  the  Orkney  Yles  according  to 
him  is  59  gr  24  M. 

The  soudermost  poynt  of  Schetland  be  him  also  is  60  gr. 
3M. 

The  nordermost  poynt  of  Schetland  be  him  is  61  gr  6  m. 

Be  his  reconing  ther  run  of  Scottish  myles — 51  to  a  degree 
of  Latitude  and  10  Scottish  myles  answer  to  12  English  myles. 

Edinburgh  is  set  be  him  in  his  Mappe  of  Lothian  under 
55  gr  46  m.  According  to  his  reckoning  in  that  Mappe — 15 
Scottish  myles  do  answer  to  20  Minutes  of  latitude  so  that 
therby  45  of  our  myles  do  make  a  degree,  but  it  is  fals,  for  be 
his  count  Dungisbehead  sould  fall  to  be  58  gr :  51  m.  Which 
yit  in  his  Mappe  of  Orkney  he  maketh  to  be  onlie  58  gr. 
32  in  so  that  the  difference  is  29  min. 

435.  So  far  as  I  have  tryed  be  count  or  experience,  I  do  find 
a  common  myle  of  our  countrey  to  hold  of  el  Ins  sixteen 
hundreth,  sumtyms  they  ar  longer,  somtyms  they  ar  shorter, 
and  very  rudelie  ar  they  counted  but  I  do  hold  this  may  be  a 
just  proportion  to  stand  for  all,  being  measured  in  a  right  line. 

Now  comparing  the  latitude  of  placis  in  our  countrey,  be 
sum  few  observations  of  utheris,  I  do  find  a  sensible  difference 
among  them,  and  Mr  Timothie  in  his  Mapps  of  Lothian  and 
Orkney  doth  not  agrie  with  himself.  Wherfore  casting  all 
that  asyd,  in  Latitude  I  have  followed  Cambden  and  the 
English  as  most  accurat,  who  place  Berwick  under  55  gr. 
48  m.  and  I  do  find  that  50  of  our  myles  agreeth  best  of  all 
to  60  Italian  miles  or  a  degree,  wherupon  I  have  followed  out 
all  the  latitudes  of  Scotland. 


CO  WELL. 

Cowell  in  Argyll  lyeth  on  the  Northsyd  of  Lochloing  and 
upon  the  southwest  syd  of  Lochfyne.  therein  is  a  toun 
called  Dun-Oyne  where  there  is  ane  old  Castell,  sumtyms  the 
residence  of  sum  of  the  old  kings  to  it  do  pertain  sum  castell 


COWELL  511 

lands,  as  to  the  richt  of  his  majesties  housis  of  that  nature, 
the  Assemblie  of  the  kirk  for  the  dioces  not  long  since  used 
to  be  keaped  thair.  but  in  older  tymes  the  place  of  meeting 
wes  at  Kilmonne  upon  the  northeast  syd  of  Loch  Sean! 
in  English  the  holy  Logh,  plentie  of  herring  ar  taken  therin 

Mr  Timothy. 

The  lenth  of  Cowel  is  30  myles,  betwix  the  poynt  of  Towart, 
•and  a  craig  in  a  hill  upon  the  heid  of  Gl'enfynn  called 
Clachan  in  Foyeach.  Item  the  bread  of  Co  well  is  betwix 
Loch  lung  and  Lochfyn  being  12  myles. 

Thair -is  also  another  Loch  upon  the  eastsyd  of  Kilmoune 
called  Loch   Goill  whair  is  abundance  of  herring  also  ther 
runs  in  Loch  Scant  a  river  named  Eaghie     the  draught  of 
lands  through  which  the  river  runneth  is  called  Strath  Eaghie, 
it  lyeth  to  the  south  west  from  Lochfyne  and  betwix  thois 
two  sea  lochs,  there  is  a  freche  water  Loch  called  Loch-haick, 
rough  and  uneven  ground  about  it  yet  useful   for  pasture. 
Hard  by  is  another  valley  cald  Strathgurr     betwix  thois  two 
Straths  lyeth  that  freche  water  Lochhaick     The  one  end  of 
this  loch  lyeth   southward  towards  the  head  of  Loch  Scant, 
the  uthir  end  therof  looketh   almost  nordwest  to  Lochfyne.  436. 
In    this  Strathgurr  there  is  a  little   glen   on   the  northeast 
syd  therof  with  a  small  river  running  to  the  sea  throch  the- 
same.     There  is  one  Church  in  Strathgurr,  not  far  from  the 
ferry    of  Lochfyne   called   Kilmaglais.      It   is   15    myles   fra 
Dtm-Oyne  and  the  said   ferry  of  Lochfyne.     and  it  is  thrie 
myles  betwix  the  ferry  of  port  Chregan,  on  the  Northsyd  of 
Lochfyne  and  Innerara,  the  principal!  dwelling  of  the  Earls 
of  Argyll,  this  town  is  commodiously  situat,  lying  upon  the 
sea,  and  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  Reray,  which  falleth 
in  Lochfyne  which  loch  lyeth  eastward  of  Inneray.     At  the 
head  of  the  said  Loch  is  a  Church  called  Killmoirch.     The 
river  of  Fine  runneth  throch  a  glen  called  Glenfyne.     Upon 
the  south  syd  of  Lochfyne  is  the  Castle  of  Ardginglais  perteyn- 
'ing  to  Mack-ran-Riogh  of  the  surname  of  Campbell.     Upon 
the  eastsyd  of  this  Castell  is  a  pretty  river  called  Ginglais, 
falling  down  throch1  called  Glenginglasse.     Betwix  Kean-loch- 

1  The  words  'a  glen,'  between  'throch'  and  'called,'  are  omitted  by  Macfarlane's 
transcriber  in  copying  from  James  Gordon. — ED. 


512  COWELL 

goil  and  Ard-ginglas  ar  sum  five  miles  of  ground.  LochGoil 
is  a  salt  water  loch  and  therin  ar  plentie  of  herring  At  the 
head  therof  a  glen  calPd  Glengoilin  and  a  river  going  throcli 
the  same  called  Goilline.  There  be  also  divers  uthirs  small 
glens  at  the  east  or  southeast  and  west  or  north  syds  of  this 
Glen  and  a  church  at  the  southeast  syd  of  Lochfyne  not  far 
from  this  Glengoilin  called  Kil-Catherin. 

There  is  one  Glen  on  the  Northsyd  of  Lochfyne  called  Glen- 
syro  the  river  that  runneth  throch  it  called  Syro  or  Phyray 
rather  is  impetuous  and  falling  throch  rogh  ground,  runneth 
swyfly  vherby  be  the  ovirflowings  therof,  it  oftymes  much 
endammagethe  the  neerest  low  cornlands  and  specially  Kilblaen 
specially  on  the  southsyd  of  the  river. 

There  is  a  small  freche  water  Loch  wherin  this  water  doth 
run  betwix  it  and  Lochfyne,  it  is  not  far  from  Inneraray. 

Glenrarey  is  a  peice  of  good  land  being  of  length  from  the 
town  of  Innerraray  to  the  end  therof  sum  four  myles,  and  four 
uthir  myles  from  the  head  of  the  said  Glen,  to  the  ferry 
of  Loughow  called  Port-sorighan,  which  last  four  myles  ar 
troublesom  to  pas  ovir  the  hills  called  Monich-leac-ganich 
when  the  weather  is  tempestous  and  rough,  for  the  montagns 
ar  hie  and  steep. 

Loch-aw  is  a  freshe  water  Loch  of  24  myles  of  length  and 
one  myl  of  breadth  ;  one  end  therof  lyeth  southwest  nixt  to 
Glasrie  and  Ardskeodenes  the  uthir  end  therof  looketh  to  the 
nordeast  and  to  Glenurquhy,  or  sum  what  nordeast,  it  hath 
sum  ylands,  the  principal  is  calFd  Inche-Traynich,  another 
also  with  a  church  therein  cal'd  Inche-Ayle,  ther  is  a  castell 
on  the  southsyd  of  Loch- Aw  calFd  Inche  Chonill,  perteyning 
to  the  Earls  of  Argyll.  Another  castell  ther  is  at  the  east 
end  of  the  loch  perteyning  to  the  Laird  of  Glen-urquhy  called 
Castell  Cheilchoirne.  At  the  east  end  of  this  loch,  on  the 
north  part  therof,  there  is  a  toune  wherein  the  Mack  Gregoirs 
sumtymes  dwelt  called  Stroin  Miallachan  in  Glenstrae.  there 
is  one  church  in  Glenurquhy  called  Claghan  Diseirt.  the  river 
Aw  runneth  out  of  the  Northpart  of  the  Loch  and  on  the 
northsyd  therof  and  running  down  six  or  7  myles  endeth  in 
the  sea,  it  is  a  broad  and  deap  stream  with  plentie  of  salmon 
as  all  the  rest  have,  it  falleth  in  the  salt  Loch  call'd  Logh 


COVVELL 

Eel  iff.  The  south  west  end  or  head  of  the  said  Loch  Aw 
is  at  Ardskeodeness  and  Glasrie.  There  is  a  castell  in 
Ardskeodenes  calFd  Carnasrie  built  be  Mr  John  Carswell 
Bishop  of  Argyle,  to  the  use  of  the  Earls  of  Argyll,  the 
Church  town  is  a  myl  from  the  castell  and  is  caTd  Kilmartyn. 
At  the  East  or  Nordeast,  hard  of  Loch-Aw  ther  ar  two  glennis 
with  a  river  running  throw  every  ane  of  them,  one  of  them 
is  called  Glenurquhay,  plentiful!  in  salmond  and  good  land 
upon  the  brinks  therof,  it  is  sum  twell  myles  of  lenth,  cuming 
from  Loch  toylle  with  a  small  castell  at  the  head  of  the  Loch, 
the  other  glen  is  called  Glen-Strae  from  the  name  of  the  river 
which  runneth  through  it,  which  latelie  perteyned  to  Mac- 
Gregoir  the  cheif  of  that  Clane. 

In  Glasrie  ther  is  a  church  on  the  southsyd  of  the  south- 
most  end  of  Lochaw,  it  is  caPd  Kilmichaell.  Glasrie  is  holdin 
of  the  Constabill  of  Dundee,  the  Laird  of  Achinbrek  possesseth 
the  same  it  lyeth  betwix  the  westsyd  of  Lochfyne  and  Gnap- 
daill,  it  is  a  peice  of  good  &  fertill  land  for  cornis  and 
pasturage.  Ther  is  a  river  runneth  betwix  Glasrie  and  Ard- 
skeodeness. And  this  is  betwix  Gnapdaill  and  Ardskeodenes. 
Ther  is  a  castell  in  Glasrie  called  Duntruyne,  and  a  loch  on 
the  westsyd  of  Lochfyne  called  Loch-gurr,  15  myles  from 
Innerraray,  where  many  herring  ar  taken.  Another  Loch  there 
is  also  5  myles  therfrom  cald  Lockgailbe  or  Lochgilb.  both 
thir  ar  but  bays  and  creeks  of  Lochfyne. 

Knapdale  or  Gnaptill  followeth  at  the  east  syd  therof  ther 
is  a  Ridge  of  mountayns,  sum  eight  myles  of  length  calPd 
Slew-gaill,  whereof  the  inhabitants  have  opinion  that  ther 
groweth  ane  herb  therein,  which  if  so  ony  man  trod  upon,  it 
bringeth  hunger  and  fainting,  these  hills  ar  betwix  Loch 
Gilbe  and  Tarbat.  Tarbet  castell  at  the  Streit  of  Canty  re 
perteyneth  to  the  Earls  of  Argyll,  two  bays  meat  nearhand 
ther,  and  streighten  the  land  bearing  the  name  of  Terbart 
Lochs,  the  wholle  breadth  of  the  land  being  ther  but  a  short 
myl.  whiche  joyneth  Cantyre  to  the  Mainland.  Betwix  Cantyr 
and  the  Glinns  in  Ireland  the  distance  is  sixteen  myles,  whair 
runneth  a  furious  and  dangerous  tyd. 

Ther  is  a  litle  countrey  nixt  to  Ardskeodenes  upon  the  nord- 
west  syd  therof  called  Craigness,  divers  small  Hands  ar  upon 

VOL.   IT.  2  K 


514  COWELL 

the  coast  of  that  countrey  and  one  Castell  called  also  Craigness 
it  hath  also  one  church  near  the  sea  cald  Kilmore  in  Craigness. 
Melverd  is  a  small  countrey  nixt  unto  Craigness. 
After  Melverd  followeth  Glen  Enghie  Looking  toward  the 
Lome. 

Lome  is  twofold  one  part  therof  called  nether  Lome  per- 
teyneth  to  the  Laird  of  Rora.  Upper  Lome  perteyneth  to 
Mack  Coull  wherin  standeth  the  Castell  of  Dun-olich  or 
Dunolyffa  strong  castell  upon  a  rock  hard  be  the  sea. 

Dunstafnes  or  Dunstaffage  perteyning  to  the  Earls  of  Argyll, 
it  is  the  principall  castell  of  Lome,  very  ancient,  built  of 
old  be  one  of  the  kings  caled  Eugenij  or  Ewans,  it  standeth 
upon  a  hie  rock,  not  far  from  the  sea.  the  distance  is  of  3 
myles  onlie  betwixt  it  and  the  castell  of  Dunoliff  and  uthir 
3  myles  betwix  the  feray  of  Gonwell  in  Lome  and  Dunstaffage. 
this  ferry  or  passage  is  rough  and  dangerous  in  passing,  it 
is  sayd  the  Lordship  of  Lome  consisteth  of  700  merkland 
devyded  among  sundrie  possessours.  the  superioritie  pertayneth 
to  the  Earles  of  Argyll. 

Not  far  from  Dunoliff  ther  is  a  fresche  water  Loch  called 
Lochfaighin,  and  not  far  from  the  head  therof  a  Church  callud 
Kilmoir.  In  the  Church  town  there  is  a  spring  of  fresche 
water,  which  hath  therein  a  kynd  of  small  black  fisches  not 
found  elswhair.  which  fishes  the  townsmen  doe  observe  never 
to  encreas  in  number,  or  in  quantitie  but  still  to  remayne 
small  ones,  therfor  the  people  do  call  them  Eish  Saint,  that  is 
the  holy  fisches.  in  thir  countrey  ar  many  wild  gray  gees. 

Loch-na-yeall  is  nixt  to  this  countrey  of  Glenfaighin,  whiche 
serveth  itself  waill,  with  corn  buttir,  milk  and  cheese  and 
flesche.  In  this  Loch  ar  manie  Loch-leeches. 

Mucarne  followeth,  which  lyeth  from  Dunstaffage  southeast, 
it  hath  a  Church  callud  Kilelspic-Kerrel,  and  a  small  river 
going  by  the  Church  callud  Neant,  fruitfull  of  salmond,  it 
runneth  from  the  south  to  the  north,  and  falleth  in  Lochaediff 
it  is  not  a  full  myle  betwix  the  mouth  of  the  river  Aw,  and 
this  litle  river.  In  Lochaediff  ar  dyvers  kynds  of  fische  slain. 
Mucarne  lyeth  upon  the  south  syd  of  Locha?diff  and  upon  the 
north  syd  of  Loch- Aw. 

There  is  one  Church  upon  the  north  syd  of  Loch-aw  called 


COWELL  515 

Kilchreanan  a  myle  from  the  ferry  of  Lochaw.  it  is  5  myles 
betvvix  Kilchreanan  and  Kilespic  Kerrill  in  Mucarne  and  one 
myle  betwix  Kilespic  Kerrell  and  the  mouth  of  the  river  Aw. 
it  is  alledged  this  river  and  the  profits  therof  to  stand  for 
100  merkland  of  the  700  merklands  of  Lome,  but  it  is  not  to 
be  compared  to  the  land  althoch  this  river  of  Aw  be  plentifull 
in  fisches  especially  salmond.  the  laird  of  Inneraw  is  called 
Mac  Donachie,  alias  Campbell,  who  hath  sum  lands  upon  the 
eastsyd  of  this  river  and  upon  the  southsyd  of  Lochaediff. 

Nixt  to  Inneraw  is  a  glen  called  Glen-kindglas  and  a  small 
river  riming  throw  the  same  called  Kineglass. 

Not  far  from  thence  and  nixt  therto  is  a  glen  called  Glen-noo 
good  for  pasturings,  with  sum  cornis  also,  it  lyeth  upon  the 
westsyd  of  Glenkindglas  and  betwix  it  and  the  river  Aw. 

At  the  head  of  Lochaediff  ther  is  a  glen  called  Glenaediff, 
plentifull  of  fische  and  flesche.  the  river  sediff  runneth  throch 
it,  and  so  into  the  Loch. 

Beandirloch  is  upon  the  Northsyd  of  Lochsediff,  ovir  aganis 
Mucarne  upon  the  southsyd  of  the  Loch,  it  is  devyded 
betwix  two  owners,  it  is  cald  Bean-aedir-da-loch  that  is  a 
mountayn  betwix  two  Lochis,  and  so  it  lyeth  betwix  Lochaediff 
and  Loch  Greverin 

The  southsyd  of  this  countrey  perteyneth  to  the  Laird  of 
Caldor  and  the  Northsyd  to  the  laird  of  Glenurquhy.  Upon 
the  southsyd  of  Bean-aedir-da-loch  lyeth  Ardchattan  a  Priorie 
renowned  in  old  tyms  as  the  habitation  of  relligious  men.  it  4 
hath  a  small  town,  and  the  remaynis  of  a  good  Churche  the 
teynds  of  many  of  the  nixt  lands  perteined  therto,  yea  many  of 
the  teynds  of  Lochabyr  to  this  day.  it  hath  a  paroche  Church 
besyd  the  Abbay  Church  upon  the  syd  of  a  hill  looking  to 
the  East  and  SouthEast,  called  Kil-Bedan,  but  the  Priorie 
itself  is  more  pleasantlie  situated,  the  countrey  about  is  good 
and  fertill  both  for  corn  and  pasturage.  At  the  west  end  of 
this  countrey,  near  the  sea,  is  a  small  Chappell  cald  Gil- 
Challumkill>  a  myl  from  the  ferry  of  Gonnaill  in  Lome,  in 
the  village  therof,  ther  is  a  hie  hill  round  and  playne  about, 
levell  above,  a  spring  of  water  upon  the  top  therof,  it  seemetli 
to  have  been  a  fort  of  old.  the  countrey  people  do  speak  of 
giants  as  builders  or  inhabiters  therof.  in  this  town  ther  ar 


516  COWELL 

aboundance  of  pumick  stonis  floating  upon  the  water  if  they 
be  throwne  in  the  same,  not  elwhere  in  thir  quarters  to  be 
found  but  in  this  chappell  town  called  in  Inglish  St.  Colmis 
Chappell. 

The  northsyd  of  this  Countrey  perteyning  to  the  Laird  of 
Glenurquhy,  hath  a  castell  not  far  from  this  Chappell  called 
Bar-chaildein  it  is  thrie  myles  betwix  the  Gonnail  forsaid  and 
the  ferry  of  the  Sian,  which  is  betwix  Beanaedirdaloch  and 
the  Appin.  This  north  Bean  aedir  da  loch  is  a  good  and  com- 
modious countrey,  it  lyeth  on  the  southsyd  of  Loch  Greverin 
and  the  Appin.  On  the  uthirsyd  therof  being  the  Northsyd 
ther  is  a  glen  at  the  head  of  the  Loch  called  Glen  Greverin 
therein  is  a  fresche  water  Loch  upon  a  myl  from  the  sea.  In 
Loch  Greverin  ther  is  a  hie  mountayne  upon  the  northsyd 
therof,  in  the  midpart  therof  betwix  the  sea  and  the  mountayn, 
ther  is  a  Chappell  called  Craikwherreellan,  ther  ar  springs 
of  fresche  water  and  the  opinion  of  the  wholso nines  of  the 
water,  draweth  many  people  thither  upon  St.  Patricks  day 
yearlie  in  hopes  of  health  from  deseases  be  drinking  therof, 
the  toun  or  village  of  Ardnacloich  is  hard  by,  renouned  for 
a  well  also,  where  they  alledge  if  a  deseased  person  go,  if  he 
be  to  dye  he  shall  find  a  dead  worm  therin  or  a  quick  one 
if  health  be  to  follow. 

Appin  is  fertill  according  to  the  clime,  the  Steuarts  of  sur- 
name ar  possessors,  holding  the  same  of  the  Earles  of  Argyll. 
ther  is  a  hie  hill  upon  the  southwestsyd  therof  hard  by  the 
sea,  ovir  aganis  the  ferry  to  the  Isle  of  Lismor.  Upon  that 
441.  hill,  a  craig,  great  and  big  is  a  great  palace,  therin  is  a  great 
hole  quyt  throch  this  they  do  call  Cloich  holl.  or  the  stone 
hollowed  throch.  There  is  a  pretie  tour  in  the  Appin  not 
far  fra  this  stone,  build  on  a  rock  in  the  sea,  very  neer  the 
land  called  Hand  Stalker,  the  sea  all  alongst  hath  plentie  of 
fisches.  a  quarter  myl  from  the  castell  is  a  small  Hand  scarce 
of  a  myl  of  lenth  perteyning  to  the  Lord  of  the  Castell,  it  is 
the  most  fertill  of  all  the  small  Hands  scattered  in  abundance 
upon  that  coast. 

Lismoir  is  ane  Hand  of  eight  myles  of  lenth,  and  scarsle 
one  myle  of  breadth,  most  fertill  in  cornis,  and  fishes  taken 
in  the  nearest  sea.  her  wes  the  seat  and  dwelling  of  the  old 


COWELL  517 

Bishops  of  Argyll,  who  from  thence  had  thair  denomination 
of  Lismorensis  Episcopus.  being  neerhand  equidistant  from 
the  limits  for  Can  tyre,  Argyl,  Cowell  and  Lome  were  upon 
the  southhand,  and  Morverne  Swynord,  Ardnamurquhan  and 
Mudeor  and  the  Hands  of  Inchegald  upon  the  westsyd. 
Lochabyr  Arisaick,  Murrours,  Knoydeor  and  Glen-Elg  on 
the  North.  Ther  wer  ancient  Bishops  of  the  race  and  name 
of  Clan-vick  Gillemichaell.  After  them  succeeded  uthirs  of 
uther  races  wherof  one  being  about  to  putt  of  sum  gentlemen 
from  offices  which  they  and  thair  predecessors  had  held  long 
of  the  Bishops,  wer  killed  be  the  said  Clan-vick  Gille  Michaell. 
Whereupon  the  following  Bishops  left  off  all  residence  and 
dwelling  in  that  He.  The  paroch  Church  of  that  He  whair 
ye  Bishops  had  ther  residence  is  called  Kilmaluag.  Many 
lies  are  upon  the  southeast  syd  of  Lismoir  wher  wild  fowls 
do  hatche  and  nest.  Manie  Hands  ar  also  scattered  round 
about  it,  all  ar  for  the  most  part  rough,  craggie  and  desert, 
the  neighbouring  sea  riche  in  fisches. 

Durrour  is  the  next  countrey  to  the  Appin,  thair  is  one 
chappell  therin  cald  Kilchallumkill,  there  is  one  Illand  ovir 
agains  it  cald  Hand  Baillanagowne,  rough  and  full  of  wood, 
it  hath  upon  the  southeast  a  good  haven  for  shipping  and 
another  upon  the  west  therof.  This  countrey  of  Durrour 
extendeth  to  30  merkland  it  hath  two  small  rivers  in  it,  one 
called  Avon  Chultin,  the  uther  Avon  Durgur,  thai  cum  from 
the  southeast,  and  doo  run  West.  Salmond  ar  in  thois 
small  rivers,  there  is  one  glen  in  the  Countrey,  throch  which 
the  river  Chultin  runneth,  ther  ar  only  3  touns  in  the  said  , 
glen,  one  upon  the  south  syd,  one  at  the  head  of  the  glen, 
and  the  thrid  upon  a  hill  which  is  betwix  it  and  the  rest  of 
the  countrey. 

Glencoen  is  the  nixt  countrey  to  Durrour  eastwards,  it  is 
20  merkland  perteyning  to  a  gentleman  of  the  race  of  the 
Clandoneil.  it  hath  one  river  running  throch  it  called  Coen 
falling  out  of  a  small  Loch  called  Loch  Trighittane  from  the 
east,  and  goeth  nordwest  to  the  sea,  this  river  hath  salmond 
fisching  also.  The  sealoch  wherein  it  runneth  is  called  Loch- 
lieven,  which  Loch  lieven  goeth  up  7  myles  from  the  ferry 
of  Bale  Cheules,  or  therby,  it  devydeth  Lochaber  from  Glen- 


518  COWELL 

coen,  a  river  called  Lieven  falleth  in  the  head  therof  and 
giveth  name  to  it,  in  that  loch  or  bay  is  ane  Hand  called 
Hand  Moune,  which  hath  the  paroch  church  therein.  This 
Church  hath  70  merkland  perteyning  therto.  Lochlieven  and 
the  Countrey  about  it  after  Glencoen  is  a  part  of  Lochabyr, 
it  is  inhabited  be  sum  touns  and  villages  up  a  peice  of  the 
said  river. 

Mamoir  is  a  Countrey  of  Lochabyr,  it  hath  Lochlieven 
upon  one  syd,  the  long  bay  of  Lochyell  upon  another  syd, 
then  the  river  Nevesh  and  upon  the  last  syd  ar  the  hills, 
Looking  the  way  to  Rennach  far  of,  and  all  betwixt  vast 
ground  taken  up  with  hills  mosses  and  deserts. 

Innerlochy  doth  ly  a  myle  from  the  mouth  of  Nevess  build 
as  is  supposed  be  King  Eugenius,  certainlie  it  is  most  old 
and  wes  sumtymes  the  habitation  of  the  kings,  Standing  in 
a  most  commodious  seat  both  for  sea  and  land,  hard  by  it 
is  the  hill  called  Bin-Neves  one  of  the  hiest  if  not  the  very 
hiest  of  all  the  hills  of  Scotland  and  so  much  the  more  to  be 
admired  as  it  joyneth  not  to  any  hie  hills,  or  is  set  in  anie 
desert,  but  in  a  good  countrey  and  hard  by  a  long  bay. 

Glen-Neves  lyeth  along  the  river  Nevess  plentifull  according 
to  the  countrey  and  little  inferior,  it  is  ten  merkland  (for  all 
Lochabyr  is  onlie  160  merkland  altho  the  countrey  be  both 
good  and  large)  and  is  divyded  in  twa  parochins.  the  southsyd 
of  the  river  is  of  the  paroch  of  Hand  Moun,  and  the  Northsyd 
443-  is  of  the  paroch  of  Kilmanevag  whiche  is  at  the  Loch  Lochy. 

Loch  Lochy  runneth  the  way  from  Lochness,  twel.l  myles  long, 
of  breadth  a  myle  for  the  most  pairt,  it  cumeth  from  the 
North  and  Northeast,  and  looketh  to  the  south  and  southwest. 

At  the  end  of  Lochyiell  is  a  litle  river  called  Keand 
Lochyiell.  cuming  from  the  Northward,  among  rough  ground, 
there  is  plentie  of  great  firwood,  but  difficult  to  transport, 
and  on  the  northsyd  therof  great  stoar  of  fair  oaken  wood, 
and  espeally  one  fair  wood,  there  ar  in  Loch-yiol  inanie 
small  glenns  fitt  for  pasture.  Not  two  myles  from  the 
Church  of  Killmaille  which  is  at  the  syd  of  the  Loch, 
pvir  agains  the  Hand  cald  Loch-yioll,  is  the  Castell  of 
Torriechastell,  upon  the  West  bank  of  the  river  Lochy. 
Sum  suppose  this  to  have  been  the  place  of  Berigonium  so 


COWELL  519 

much  spoken  of  in  our  old  monuments,  how  trulie  or  upon 
what  grounds  I  cannot  judge. 

The  Clan-Chameron  the  ChieflF  inhabitants  alledge  them- 
selves to  be  cum  of  the  Danes,  and  thair  first  habitation  to 
have  been  Glendarvan  in  Argyll,  and  at  that  tyme  that  were 
called  Sleick  -  Allen  -  Wick  -  Oggri  -  Wick-Millananay  -  Wick- 
Ardan  &c. 

Glenluy  or  Glengluy  is  after,  a  draught  of  land  upon  the 
river  Luy  or  Gluy  which  earning  doun  betwix  the  river  of  Roy 
and  Lochlochy  falleth  in  the  said  loch. 

Upon  the  uthir  syd  of  Lochlochy  to  the  West  thereof  is 
Loch  Argaig  sum  twell  myle  of  lenth  and  not  one  myle  of 
breadth,  upon  the  southsyd  of  this  loch  ther  is  a  firrwood 
upon  fourteen  myles  of  lenth  and  upon  the  northsyd  fair 
oaken  wood,  the  countrey  about,  is  fitt  for  pasture,  but  no 
cornis  heir,  the  river  Airkgaig  coming  from  the  loch,  falleth 
after  short  running  in  LochLochy.  At  the  nordwest  head  of 
Locharkaig,  ar  two  glenns  viz.  Glenpean,  and  Glendessorie, 
the  river  pean  hath  pasture  and  salmond.  thir  two  glenns 
ar  devyded  be  a  Ridge  of  hills,  at  the  soudermost  end  of 
Loch-arkgaig  is  a  church  in  ane  Hand  called  Hand  Columb- 
kill.  it^s  ten  myll  betwix  this  Hand  and  the  kirk  of  Killmaillie  < 
in  Loch-yiell. 

Spean  or  Speachan  river  cuming  out  of  Lochlagan  at  the 
marches  of  Badenoch,  falleth  in  the  river  Lochy,  at  the 
Southeast  end  of  LochLochy,  hard  by  is  the  church  of  Kil- 
manevag,  the  uthir  best  river  is  Roy  running  directly  from 
the  head  of  Spey  river,  and  not  a  myl  betwix  the  springs  of 
both,  it  falleth  in  Speam  about  the  Keppach,  the  draught  of 
thir  two  rivers  have  much  good  ground,  and  manie  dwellings 
upon  them. 

The  Cumings  were  of  old  Lords  of  this  countrey  of  Loch- 
abyr.  After  it  fell  out  that  one  of  them  wes  mislykead  be 
the  people  who  therupon  be  a  devyce  of  a  house  built  upon 
the  waters  and  a  trap  in  the  floor  therof  destroyed  manie  of 
the  people,  wherof  they  relate  a  long  storie,  but  it  succeeded 
so  evill,  that  he  left  the  countrey  and  never  dwelt  anie  more 
therein,  the  two  part  therof  doth  now  perteyne  to  the  house 
of  Huntley,  and  the  rest  to  Mackintoise,  sum  the  Earls  of 


520  COWELL 

Argyl  pretend  to  hold  about  Lochyell  which  the  Chieff  of  the 
Clanchameron  hold  in  possession. 

It  is  two  myles  from  Innerloquhy  to  the  kirk  of  Kilmaillie, 
of  old  ther  wes  a  church  build  in  this  town  upon  a  hill,  above 
the  Church  which  now  is,  and  standeth  in  the  town,  the  people 
report  of  a  battell  focht  in  old  tymes  hard  by  thar  Church, 
and  how  long  after,  hirds  feeding  ther  cattell  in  that  place,  in 
a  cold  season,  made  a  fyre  of  dead  mens  bones  ther  scattered, 
who  being  all  removed  except  one  mayd  who  took  up  her 
cloaths  and  uncovered  hirself  sum  part  here,  a  sudden  whirl- 
wind threw  sum  of  the  ashes  in  her  privie  member,  whereupon 
she  conceaved  and  bore  a  sone  called  Gillie  dow-mak  Chravolick 
that  is  to  say  the  black  chyld  sone  to  the  bonis,  who  after 
becam  learned  and  relligious  and  built  this  Churche  whiche 
now  standeth  in  Kilmaillie 

Ardgaur  followeth  nixt  upon  the  firth  westward  and  nearer 
the  sea,  the  first  inhabitants  dwelling  as  is  reported  in  ane  He 
445.  were  chased  thence  be  a  monster,  the  nixt  inhabitants  wes  a 
race  called  Clan  Maister,  whereof  the  chief  man  having 
offended  his  Lord  Mackoneil  who  therupon  gave  it  to  house  of 
Mac-lean.  Cowl  is  the  principall  dwelling,  hard  upon  the 
sea,  there  are  dyvers  glenns  in  that  countrey,  altho  it  be  of 
small  extent.  the  principal  is  Conglen  sum  12  myles  of 
lenth.  Where  is  aboundance  of  good  pasture  and  plentie  of 
firrwood,  of  great  and  fair  timmer,  upon  the  southsyd  of  this 
glen,  ther  is  another  called  Glen-Scaflfadell,  ther  being  a  ledge 
of  hills  betwix  the  two  glenns.  ther  is  good  firrwood  upon  the 
water  of  Scaffadill  easie  to  be  transported,  the  whole  baronie 
of  Ardgour  is  25  Merkland.  There  is  the  uther  glen  called 
Glengour,  wherein  is  a  freshe  water  Loch,  and  salmon  fishing 
as  in  the  former,  the  river  Gour  runeth  throch  Glengour, 
the  wholl  countrey  is  a  great  deall  better  for  pasture  then  for 
cornis. 

Kean-gear-loch  is  nixt  to  Ardgour,  this  countrey  is  very 
roughe  and  mountainous;  hills  are  on  the  westsyd,  and  the 
sea  on  the  south  or  southeast  syde  therof ;  it  is  not  fertill  in 
cornis  but  fische  and  fieshe  in  aboundance.  ther  is  one  castell 
in  it  called  Castell  Nagair.  The  Inhabitants  ar  called  Siell- 
Eachin.  They  are  descended  of  MacLean  of  Lochbuy.  The 


COWELL  521 

whol  Clan-Lean  ar  devyded  into  two  casts  or  trybs  This 
Maclean  of  Lochbuy  is  called  Seill-Eachin  and  the  Clan-Leah 
of  Dowart  in  the  He  of  Mull  ar  called  Seill-Laughlan,  they 
are  both  of  once  race,  and  of  two  brethren,  the  eldest  named 
Hector  and  in  Iris  Eachin  the  uthir  Laughlan,  now  the  Clan- 
lean  of  Dowart  ar  the  principall.  they  all  were  of  old  de- 
pendaris  and  followers  of  Mackoneill  Lord  of  the  lies,  who 
advanced  them  but  the  great  ones  of  his  hous  decaying  they 
rose  up. 

The  nixt  countrey  is  Morverne,  it  is  profitable  in  cornis  milk 
stoar  and  fishes.  therin  is  one  castell  perteyning  to  Siel 
Laughlan  alias  Maclean  of  Dowart  the  castell  is  called  Ard- 
Torrenish.  it  stands  upon  the  south  end  of  the  countrey  upon 
the  sea. 

Swyneord  is  nixt  and  ovir  agains  Morverne,  a  fertill  and 
profitable  countrey,  for  fische,  salmond,  cattell,  milk  &c.  ther 
ar  good  pastures,  having  glenns  and  good  feeding  for  cattell 
amoimg  mountayns,  upon  the  nordwest  syd  therof,  and  upon 
the  uthir  syd  ane  sea  loch  betwix  Morverne  and  it,  it  is 
reckoned  30  merkland,  it  wes  holden  be  the  Clanean  of 
Mackoneil,  Lord  of  Yla  and  Cantyre  the  paroch  church  ik 
yland  Fynan,  which  standeth  in  a  fresche  water  Loch  called 
Lochsoell.  Muydeord  is  on  the  nordwest  syd  of  this  Loch 
and  Swyneord  upon  the  south  syd.  Lochabyr  and  Ardgaur  at 
the  east  head  therof,  out  of  this  Loch  runneth  a  river  of  the 
same  name  westward  into  the  sea,  it  hath  abundance  of 
salmond  when  thair  ar  no  speats  nor  rayn  but  fair  weather, 
ther  be  sundrie  good  glenns  upon  the  nordwest  syd  of  this 
loch.  One  of  them  called  Glen-Seanan,  with  the  river  Seanan 
running  throch  the  same.  Another  Glen  is  ovir  agains 
Swyneord  in  Mudeord  called  Glencalmadill  with  a  river  of 
that  name  thois  glenns  ar  for  pastur,  but  scarce  of  corn  lands, 
this  countrey  wes  also  holdin  be  the  Clan-lean  of  Mackoneill. 

Ardna-Murchen  is  next  to  Swyneord  on  the  westsyd  therof 
or  sum  what  southwest,  holden  as  the  former  be  the  Clan- 
lean,  this  is  a  fertill  ground  for  cornis,  cattell,  fishes,  and  all 
uthir  necessaries,  ther  is  therin  a  castell  on  the  sea  called 
Castell  Megarie.  The  Clan  Ean  Murguenich  wer  the  olcl 
inhabitants,  dispossessed  be  the  Campbells  who  have  planted  it 


522  COWELL 

with  other  people,  unless  it  be  a  few  remaynder  of  the  old,  it 
hath  one  church  called  Kilmore  and  it  is  fourscoir  merkland. 

Muideort  lyeth  nixt  upon  the  northwest  syd  of  the  former, 
plentifull  of  milk,  fishe,  dear  and  rae  but  not  fertill  of  corne, 
therin  ar  certain  rough  Hands,  the  countrey  itself  being  very 
rough  and  craggy,  ane  castell  it  hath  upon  a  rock  in  the  sea 
called  Hand  Tirrim,  ships  may  cum  to  it,  upon  the  west  and 
south  syd  of  the  castell  is  a  hie  mountain. 

Arysaig  cumeth  after,  nixt  to  Muideort,  it  is  no  corne 
countrey  but  for  pasture  and  fishes,  it  hath  a  Church  cald  Kil- 
maroy  in  Arisaig. 

Nixt  to  it  ar  the  two  Morroris  perteyning  to  the  Siell- 
Allan-Wick  Kaimald,  on  the  southsyd  or  sumquhat  west  of 
LochMurour  a  fresche  water  Loch  of  sum  four  myles  of  lenth, 
and  a  myl  of  breadth  which  loch  is  compassed  with  hie 
mountaynes  as  also  at  the  east  head  therof,  all  the  countrey  is 
rough  and  montanous,  with  a  river  running  from  this  Loch  to 
the  sea. 

The  uthir  Morrour  upon  the  northsyde  of  the  Loch,  per- 
taineth  to  the  Laird  of  Glengarry,  a  verie  litle  countrey,  it 
hath  fish,  bestial  and  pasture,  but  small  stoar  of  cornis.  Upon 
the  northsyd  of  this  Morrour  ther  is  a  sealoch  cumeth  in 
betwixt  both  the  countreys  of  Morrour  and  Knodeart. 

Knodeart  is  fertill  of  corne,  abundance  of  pasture  also,  in 
it  ar  dy vers  small  rivers,  and  specially  five,  two  whereof  at  the 
head  of  Loch  Neves,  there  is  a  great  mountayne  betwix  them, 
and  the  river  which  runneth  on  the  nordwest  of  this  moun- 
tayn  runneth  throw  a  glen,  one  of  the  glenns  is  called  Glen 
Medill,  ther  is  also  a  fresche  water  Loch  throw  which  another 
litle  river  doth  run,  the  two  rivers  meet,  and  so  run  by  the 
Church  of  the  Countrey  called  Kilquhoan.  which  is  also  the 
cheiff  dwelling  of  the  Lord  of  the  Countrey.  Upon  the  north 
of  this  Country  ther  is  a  glen  profitable  for  cattell,  and  a  river 
falling  throch  it,  the  river  called  Gasiran,  and  the  Glen 
Gasiran.  there  is  also  Glenbaristill. 

There  is  a  Loch  of  Seawater  on  the  northsyd  of  Knodeart. 
Loch  Owrin  it  goeth  far  up  to  the  eastward,  with  plentie  of 
fishe  therin  ther  is  a  glen  upon  the  southeastsyd  therof,  and  a 
smal  river  cald  Voirne,  and  the  sea  loch  is  cald  Loch-Voirne. 


COWELL  523 

Loch  Treig.  this  loch  lying  in  wast  ground  whair  is  no 
come,  but  good  pasture,  sendeth  out  a  river  4  myl  long  to 
Spean.  Lochgulbin  sendeth  another  river  also. 

Loch  Traig  lyeth  among  hie  mountayns,  the  one  head  lyeth 
north  and  somwhat  to  the  east,  the  uther  end  south  or  sum 
more  to  the  West : 

Glen-Garry  is  all  within  the  land  not  touching  the  sea,  it  is 
neighbour  to  Loch-arkgaik  in  Lochabyr.  Ther  is  a  little 
Strath  betwixt  the  head  of  Loch-Lochy,  and  another  small 
fresche  water  Loch  called  Loch-Eawich,  this  strath  is  scarce 
one  myl  of  length  and  not  the  eicht  part  of  a  myl  in  breadth, 
it  is  calTd  Achadrome  supposed  be  the  people  therabout  to  443. 
be  the  middle  part  of  Scotland  be  the  length,  there  is  a  stone 
in  a  playne  in  this  Strath,  caFd  the  stone  of  the  rigg  of  Scot- 
land that  runs  from  nordeast  to  southwest,  the  river  of  Garry 
is  but  two  myles  from  this  Strath,  cuming  out  of  Lochgarry, 
and  Loch  Coich  and  sundrie  uthir  Lochis.  Glengarry  hath 
cornis  and  bestiall  in  good  plentie.  On  the  southwestsyd 
therof  tlier  is  a  great  firr.  wood  of  sum  10  or  12  myles.  and 
upon  the  north  syd  of  Lochgarry  ther  is  a  fair  oaken  wood. 
Lochgarry  is  6.  myl  long,  the  river  falleth  in  Loch  Eawich, 
and  from  it  into  Lochness,  the  cheiff  dwelling  is  at  the  head  of 
LochEawich.  Glengarry  and  Achadrome  is  of  the  Lordship 
of  Lochaber  and  Sheriffdome  of  Innerneyss. 

The  names  of  the  whole  parts  of  the  Lordship  of  Lochabyr, 
ar  those.  Mamoir,  Loch  Levin,  or  Lieven.  Glenn evisli.  Garga- 
vach.  Glenspean,  Glen  Roy.  Daughnassie.  Loch-Yiell  Glenley, 
or  Glenluy.  Loch-Airkag.  Achadrome  and  Glengarry.  All 
thir  parts  ar  devyded  among  the  paroche  Churches  viz :  Ard- 
gour  in  the  Lordship  of  Morvern  and  Sherifdome  of  Innerness. 
Lochyiell,  Glenley,  Loch-Arkaig,  Achadrome,  and  Glengarry 
perteyne  to  the  paroche  of  Kilmaillie.  Loch-lieven,  Mamoir 
and  the  seven  merkland  and  half  merkland  of  Glen  Nevish 
perteyne  to  Hand  Mowne.  Thrie  merkland  and  a  half  of 
Glen  nevish,  Gargaveth  Glenspean,  Glen  Roy,  and  Daugh- 
nassie with  six  merkland  of  Glenley  perteyn  to  the  paroch  of 
Kilmanevack. 

There  is  a  small  town,  whair  a  chappell  wes  built  of  old  not 
two  myl  from  Kilmanevack.  wherin  the  oldest  men  declare 


524  COWELL 

they  did  sie  in  this  chappel  which  is  called  Achannathannait 
many  inhabitants  of  that  town  selling  wine,  ail,  aquavitae 
the  Scots  quart  of  wine  for  18  pennies  Scots  a  quart  of 
aill.  a  quart  of  hasill.  nutts,  and  a  quart  of  oat  meal  for 
thrie  pennies  Scots.  And  that  this  place  wes  a  sanctuarie 
among  the  countrie  people,  this  town  now  is  desolat  without 
inhabitants. 

Anno  1620  in  the  beginning  of  August,  the  people  of  the 
countrey  were  building  a  bridge  upon  the  river  Airkaig,  at 
449.  the  end  of  the  work  they  report  they  saw  an  infinit  number  of 
adders  swymming  upon  the  water,  a  litle  above  the  bridge, 
leaping  theron,  wherof  many  landing  creeped  away  throch  the 
grass  and  hather,  to  the  great  terrour  of  the  beholders. 

Abirtarf  is  next  to  Glengarrye,  at  the  north  or  nordest 
head  of  this  Loch,  it  is  devyded  in  two  parts  betwix  the 
Lord  Lovet,  and  the  Lard  of  Glengarry,  it  hath  two  rivers 
Eawich  whilk  draweth  his  water  from  the  Loch  of  his  awn 
name,  unto  Lochness.  the  uthir  is  Tarf  which  running  throch 
a  glen  cald  Glentarf,  from  the  east,  and  falleth  in  Lochness  to 
the  northward. 

Lochness  is  24  myles  of  lenth,  and  of  breadth  sumtyme  a 
myl,  sumtyme  litle  more,  on  the  west  and  nordwest  syd  is 
Glenmorisden,  with  sum  towns  therin,  it  is  renouned  for  fair 
tal  firr  wood  as  good,  if  not  better  than  any  in  Britain,  it  hath 
in  it  dyvers  glenns  and  straithes,  good  for  cattel,  altho  it  be 
not  very  spacious,  the  river,  is  cald  Morisden  which  cumeth 
from  sundrie  fresche  water  small  Lochis.  therin  is  a  small 
paroch  Church  called  Mullergheard. 

Followeth  Urquhardenn  upon  that  same  syd  of  the  Loch, 
and  more  to  the  North,  fertill  in  cornis  and  pasture,  the  cornis 
nearest  the  loch,  the  pasture  in  the  hie  parts,  cald  the  brae  of 
Urquhoden,  or  rather  Urquhattin,  in  the  mids  of  the  countrey 
is  a  fresh  water  Loch,  sending  a  small  stream  in  the  Loch 
caird  there  is  a  small  church  in  this  countrey  cald 

Kil-saint-Ninian,  whereunto  dyvers  used  to  resort  for  health,  a 
spring  being  renouned  more  the  said  churche.  from  Urquhattin 
to  Innvernes  ar  twell  myles,  whereof  the  Loch  taketh  up  large 
eight. 

Invernes  wes  the  greatest  shyr  in  all   Scotland  before  of 


KNODEORD  525 

late  that  Cathnes  and  Suderland  wer  made  shyres,  be  them- 
selves, for  it  conteyned  Lochabyr  and  all  north  from  it,  upon 
the  West  sea,  and  upon  the  uthir  syd,  whatsoever  was  be  west 
the  Shyr  of  Name,  onlie  Cromarty  and  a  small  parcell  of 
ground  about,  had  jurisdiction  be  itself. 

Strath-harrigag  or  Errigig  is  next  to  Abirtart.  upon  the 
east  and  southeast  syd  of  Lochness.  it  is  reconed  be  some  the 
hiest  countrey  in  Scotland,  yet  that  tale  seemeth  to  be  more 
truelie  applied  to  the  brae  of  Badenoch  betwixt  it  and  Athol.  450. 
the  rivers  of  this  countrey  are  unwholsum,  reddish  water  run- 
ning throw  mosses,  and  low  foul  grounds,  the  countrey  is  not 
very  fertill,  and  a  Ledge  of  hills  run  betwixt  it  and  Lochness 
so  that  the  best  part  of  it  is  upon  rivers  of  it  awne.  for 
Churches  ther  ar  in  Abirtarf  the  Church  of  Kilwhimen,  and  in 
this  countrey  Bolleskie,  it  hath  a  forrest  upon  the  southeast 
syd,  wher  are  stoar  of  dear  and  roe. 

Item  in  Badenoch  the  kirk  of  Lagankerrich,  the  kirk  of 
Kenzeossich  or  Kenguissy  commonlie  Kingussie  and  the  kirk 
of  Eallavie  commonlie  Skeir-Alloway. 

MEMORANDUM  FOR  KNODEORD. 

Knodeord  is  very  rough,  full  of  mountaynes  and  glenns  with 
divers  smal  rivers  therin,  with  plentie  of  salmon  fish.  Sum  of 
the  lands  therof  ly  south,  sum  parts  West  and  sum  to  the 
north,  ovir  aganis  Glen-Elg,  the  part  that  look  to  Loch 
Nevesh  is  rough,  being  the  southsyd  of  the  countrey.  the 
middest  therof  Looketh  west  ovir  aganis  Sleit  in  the  Skie  this 
is  the  playnest  and  best  part  of  the  countrey,  the  north  syd  is 
very  rough,  whair  plentie  of  salmon  and  herring  ar  taken  in 
the  Loch  called  Lochhuirne  and  in  sum  small  rivers  at  the  syd 
of  the  Loch,  and  in  the  river  of  Glen-Barristil.  and  another 
river  at  the  head  of  the  Loch,  ther  be  great  stoar  of  dear  and 
roe  in  Knodeord. 

Glen-Elge  lyeth  ovir  aganis  Knodeord,  north  from  it,  and 
looking  west  to  the  sea,  and  the  He  of  Skie,  devyded  therfrom 
be  a  small  arme  of  the  sea,  the  bay  which  runneth  up  from  the 
sea  far  eastward  devyding  it  from  Knodeord  is  called  Loch- 
huirne, it  doth  perteyne  to  MacLoid  of  Harray,  it  is  fertill  in 


526      KNAPDAIL— CANTYR— LORNE 

Cornlands  having  two  plesant  straths  of  corneland,  pasture, 
and  aboundance  of  salmond  in  the  two  rivers  of  thois  Straith's, 
There  is  one  Church  in  this  conntrey  called  Kill-chuimen.  a 
passage  or  ferry  be  sea  ther  is  ovir  to  Slait  in  Skie,  where 
abundance  of  fishe  is  taken,  it  is  cald  Kil-raa.  this  countrey 
marcheth  with  Kintail.  it  is  of  the  Dioces  of  Argyle  and 
Sherifdom  of  Inverness.  Upon  the  southsyd  ovir  aganis 
Knodeord,  ther  is  a  smal  village  and  a  small  river  running 
throw  the  same  to  the  sea,  wherein  if  a  tree  be  cassin,  al  above 
the  water  will  remayne  as  befor,  what  lyeth  in  the  water  therof 
will  becume  stone,  the  toun  is  called  Arnistill  in  Glen  Elge. 

MEMORANDUM    FOR    KNAPDAIL,    CANTYR 
&  LORNE. 

Upon  the  west  syd  of  Knapdail  is  a  castell  cald  Kilberry,  it 
hath  to  it  a  paroch  church. 

From  the  Terbart  upon  the  westsyd  of  Kyntyre,  there  is 
eight  myles  and  as  much  upon  the  eastsyd  perteyning  of  long 
tyme  to  the  Earls  of  Argyl,  thay  were  purchassed  be  them  at 
the  tyme  of  the  forfaltour  of  McDonald  Lord  of  the  lies. 
Killmayaille  upon  the  west  and  the  castell  of  Skeipnes  upon 
the  East,  mak  the  marche  the  rest  of  Cantyr  remayned  to 
Mackoneill. 

Skeipness  was  on  old  dwelling  of  the  Lords  of  the  lies,  the 
place  betwixt  the  Terbats  and  Skeipnes  is  called  Borlum  that1 
a  playne  land  betwixt  two  countreys.  the  lenth  of  Cantyre 
from  the  Terbarts  to  the  Mull  is  estimat  40  myles.  Mr. 
Timothie  exceedeth  not  36  at  most,  the  Mull  is  cald  be  the 
old  roman  wryters  Epidium  promontorium.  in  sum  parts 
nyn  8,  7,  or  6  myles  broad,  the  west  syd  generally  is  the  better 
ground,  the  northsyd  is  rough  and  mountainous,  full  of  hather 
and  glens,  and  fittest  for  pasture. 

Upon  the  eastsyd  ar  two  glennis  plesant  and  profitable 
calld  Glen-Arindil,  and  Glen  Saidill,  throw  thois  two  run 
streams  of  waters,  in  them  salmon,  and  upon  the  syds  plentie 
of  good  corneland,  and  woods  upon  the  skirts.  In  Glensaidill 

1  Instead  of  the  word  'that,'  Gordon's  MS.,  from  which  Macfarlane's  tran- 
scriber copied,  has  the  words  '  it  is.' — ED. 


KEAltEHA  527 

is  ane  antient  monasterie,  of  the  Order  of  St  Bernard,  it  was 
founded  above  300  years  ago  be  Donald  MackDonald  Lord  of 
the  Isles  and  dedicat  to  the  Virgin  Marie,  the  Marquis  of 
Hamilton  is  Superior  therof.  Eight  myles  from  Saidill  upon 
that  same  syd  is  the  Loch  called  Loch-Kilkcarayne,  two  myle 
long  and  one  of  breadth  of  saltwater,  a  saif  harbour  for  ships  452. 
having  in  mouth  the  Hand  called  Hand  Davar.  Upon  the 
south  syd  of  this  loch  is  a  church  called  Kilkearair  and  ane 
castell  build  be  King  James  4,  at  the  end  of  the  Loch  is  a 
village  and  a  castell  build  be  the  Earle  of  Argyl,  in  this  loch 
ar  plentie  of  herring  and  makarell.  Thrie  myles  from  the 
head  of  this  loch  is  a  fresh  loch  of  4  myles  of  length  and 
breadth,  called  Loch  Sanish  upon  the  west  syd  of  this  countrey 
it  is,  low  pleasant  sandie  ground  ane  myle  from  the  Lochhead 
marchis  the  Maghairmoir,  ther  is  a  glen  called  Conglen,  wher 
ar  good  fatt  corneland,  a  river  going  throw  it  with  plentie  of 
salmond.  Less  then  a  myle  fra  Maghairmoir,  is  ane  old 
castel  build  upon  a  rock  called  Dunawardie  at  the  foot  of 
Conglen. 

Eastward  from  Dunawordie  two  myles  is  a  small  Hand  of  a 
myle  long,  and  half  myl  broad  called  Avon.  Upon  the  syd 
wherof  to  Kintyr  a  good  harbour  Upon  the  east  end  is  the 
Sheep  Hand  heir  the  current  and  sea  streams  runs  furiously. 
Upon  the  westsyd  of  Dunawardie  2  myles  therfra  is  a  fine 
glen  called  Glenbreagrie,  thair  is  fyne  and  fertill  cornlands 
a  river  it  hath  with  salmond  fishing,  At  the  mouth  of  this 
river  beginneth  the  great  headland,  called  the  Mull  of  Cantyre 
in  old  tyme  it  wes  Epidium  promontorium,  mountainous  was 
the  headland,  and  unfitt  for  shipping  having  no  havens  ner- 
hand.  Dear  and  roes  wonted  to  be  heir,  but  now  ther  be 
none  in  all  Cantyre.  from  the  mountayne  of  this  promontorie 
a  man  may  discerne  the  corneland  and  housis  in  Irland.  In 
Cantyr  are  ten  paroch  kirks  more  then  the  Abbay  of 
Saidill.  24  myles  ar  betwix  Ila  and  Cantyre  and  four 
myles  our  to  Arrane. 

KEARERA 

This  Tie  perteynes  to  MacCoul  of  Lome,  it  is  near  Dunolith 
ovir  aganis  the  Northend  of  that  Hand  Dunolith,  standeth  not 


528  COLA— EIG—MUICK— RUM 

far  from  Dunstaffage,  it  is  fertil  in  fertill  in  corne  and  plentie 
of  pasture  is  in  it,  fisches  also  in  the  neighbour  sea.  it  is  two 
myles  and  a  half  or  therby,  and  not  one  myle  in  breadth, 
ther  is  a  small  castell  on  the  southwest  corner  of  it,  called 
453.  Dundouchy,  heir  are  many  foxes  dangerous  for  sheep,  they  ar 
greater  then  the  ordinarie,  and  mor  bold. 

COLA 

it  perteyneth  to  sum  of  the  race  and  name  of  Macklean,  fertil 
it  is  in  corne  specially  barly,  aboundance  also  of  fishes  round 
about. 

EIG 

it  is  fertill  of  Corne  and  grass  for  pasture,  fish  also  many,  but 
they  have  no  skil  of  fishing.  A  litle  Church  it  hath  cal'd 
Kildonain  where  the  Lord  of  the  countrey  resideth,  ther  is  a 
hie  strait  mountayne  upon  the  south westsyd  of  it,  where 
the  inhabitants  have  sure  refuge  in  tyme  of  danger  from 
enemies,  upon  the  top  therof  is  a  small  loch,  and  therin 
ane  Hand,  it  is  30  merkland.  it  is  3  myle  in  lenth,  and 
2  in  breadth 

ILAND  NA  MUICK. 

that  is  to  say  the  Swyne  Hand,  south  it  lyeth  from  Eig.  it 
hath  corne,  grass,  and  fische,  it  hath  a  strenth  built  upon  a 
rock,  it  perteyneth  to  the  Bishop  of  the  lies,  it  is  6  merkland. 

RUM 

is  a  big  Hand  upon  the  Westsyd  of  Eig,  and  upon  the  south- 
east of  Canna,  it  perteyneth  to  the  Laird  of  Cola,  it  hath  two 
touns  one  upon  the  nordwest  syd  cald  Kilmore,  the  uthir  upon 
the  southwest  syd  called  Glenharie,  it  hath  no  corneland,  but 
about  the  said  two  tounis.  the  rest  is  for  pasture,  it  hath  great 
mountayns  and  many  dear,  more  it  hath  certaine  wild  fowles 
about  the  bigness  of  a  dow,  gray  coloured,  which  ar  scarce  in 
uthir  places,  good  meat  they  ar,  but  that  to  them  who  are  not 
acquainted,  they  tast  sumwhat  wild. 


CANNA— BARRAY  529 

CANNA. 

it  perteyneth  to  the  Captain  of  the  Clan-rannald,  it  lyeth  nixt 
to  Rum,  west  therfra  betwixt  it  and  Viist.  it  hath  cornis,  milk 
and  fishes  and  the  forsaid  fowlis. 

BARRAY 

Barra  is  5  myles  long,  it  hath  many  glens  fitt  for  pasture,  it 
hath  also  cornis  in  reasonable  plentie,  the  sea  hath  stoar  of  454. 
fishes,  ther  be  sum  Hands  on  the  northsyd  perteyning  to  the 
Lord  of  it,  as  Erisga,  Fuda,  Linga,  Fera,  and  divers  uthers. 
To  the  southwest  or  south  of  it  ar  also  divers  small  Hands 
fertill  as  the  rest,  none  do  go  with  boats  into  thois  Hands,  in 
the  summer  and  harvest  seasons  befoir  the  Lord  therof  have 
his  dutyes  paid  to  him,  which  the  half  of  all  thair  cornis, 
buttir,  cheiss,  &c.  and  he  hath  an  Officiar  resident  ther  for  that 
use.  the  names  of  thois  Hands  ar  Watersa,  Sandera,  Pappa, 
Mewla,  Bearnera,  Ther  is  one  church  in  Barra,  upon  the 
north  or  nordeast  syd  calld  Kilbarray.  in  this  toun  is  a  spring 
of  fresche  water  whilk  the  inhabitants  do  believe  doth  prog- 
nostic^ warrs.  when  they  ar  to  be,  be  drops  of  blood  seen 
therm,  there  is  also  a  spring  of  fresche  water  falling  from  a 
green  hillok  above  the  Churche,  falling  into  the  sea  hard  by. 
with  this  water  ar  carried  down  in  the  sea,  innumerable  quan- 
tities of  small  cokils  so  small  as  they  show  no  more  but  the 
rudiment  of  ther  shellfishe  and  a  litle  from  that,  upon  the  sea 
sands  ar  digged  up  verie  great  number  of  great  and  fair  cokils, 
whereof  the  people  carie  away  to  their  use  infinit  quantities 
without  diminution  of  the  stoar.  Near  the  kirk  of  Kilmore, 
the  sea  hath  almost  with  continual  wirking  rent  the  Hand  in 
two.  The  inhabitants  ar  cald  Clan-Neill-Barray,  for  thois 
Hands  do  all  perteyn  to  Mckneill  of  Barray.  Ane  castel  it 
hath  in  the  south  end  in  a  litle  Hand  upon  a  rock  in  a  fresche 
Loch  called  Kisimull,  a  fresche  Loch  ther  is  betwix  this 
Kisimul  and  Kilbar,  the  toun  is  cald  Arinstill,  one  small  ri vei- 
ls in  this  yle  called  Quir,  the  south  part  of  Barra  perteyned 
of  old  to  Macdonald  Lord  of  Cantyre  and  Yla 

Wijst  is  next  to  the  north  of  Barray,  ther  be  16  myles  of 
VOL.  ii.  SL 


530  UIST— HARAY 

sea  betwixt  them  full  of  dyvers  Hands.  Vijst  is  fertill  of  corne 
milk  and  abundance  of  salmond  and  whytfishe  there  is  also 
plentie  of  wildfoul  specially  wild  geess  In  this  Isle  are  many 
small  towers  buildt  in  fresche  water  Lochis,  ar  strenthis  in 
455.  troublesum  tymes.  The  Isle  is  rough  and  mossie,  manic 
Lochis  also  there  be  many  great  and  hie  montaynes  upon  the 
southeast  part  therof,  where  the  great  plentie  of  fishing  is.  the 
most  part  of  the  habitable  lands  ar  upon  west  or  nordwest  syd. 
the  sea  cometh  into  the  fresche  water  Lochis,  so  that  almost  al 
the  water  of  the  Hand  tasteth  saltish,  under  it  be  fresche  springs, 
and  fountains,  here  doth  grow  much  barly  The  oldest  men 
report  this  Isle  to  be  much  empayred  and  destroyed  be  the 
sands  ovirblowmg  and  burieing  habitable  lands,  and  the  sea 
hath  followed  and  made  the  loss  irreparable,  there  are  destroyed 
the  tounes  and  paroch  churches,  of  Kilmarchirmoirand  Kilpetil. 
and  the  church  of  Kilmonie  is  now  called  Kilpetil,  that  is  the 
church  of  the  muir  for  so  it  lay  of  old  nearest  the  muirs,  but 
now  the  sea  and  the  sands  have  approched  it,  there  be  sum 
remaynes  of  the  destroyed  churches  yit  to  be  seen,  at  low 
tydes  or  Ebbing  water.  One  castel  is  in  this  Isle  called 
Bein  whaill,  one  Church  also  at  the  south  end  called  Kilfadrik. 
whair  is  a  toun  with  thrie  Churches  in  it.  that  we  have  sayd, 
is  touching  the  south  end  of  the  He,  the  owner  therof  is  the 
Captaine  of  the  Clan-rannald,  of  the  race  of  Seil-Allein,  or 
Clanrannald  being  of  the  Clandoneill  descended  of  MacDonail 
his  house. 

The  north  end  of  Vijst  is  a  pleasant  and  profitable  countrey 
fertill  of  cornis  specially  barly  with  plentie  of  fisches,  specially 
harring.  milk  also,  and  thois  commodities  that  cum  of  catteL 
ther  is  not  far  an  Hand  called  Heisker,  and  dyvers  other  Hands 
also,  all  perteyning  to  the  Lord  of  this  countrey,  whair  yearlie 
ar  felled  innumerable  numbers  of  seals. 

The  Yland  of  Haray  do  perteyn  to  MacLoyd,  who  is  styled 
after  this  He,  it  is  plentiful!  of  cornis,  fisches,  milk,  buttir, 
chees  &c  great  stoar  of  dear  ar  also  in  this  countrey.  this 
countrey  maketh  up  but  one  He  with  the  Lewis,  being  devyded 
be  a  small  cutt  of  land,  two  bayis  of  the  sea  or  salt  Lochis 
coming  on  both  syds  so  neer  that  they  leave  onlie  a  myle  of 


HARAY— SKIE  531 

land,  which  joy  net  h  Haray  to  the  uthir.  ther  is  a  paroch 
church  in  Haray  cald  Rovidil  and  a  small  tour  in  that  town 
named  after  the  Saint  Cleaman,  in  English  Clement,  the  lenth 
of  the  two  Hands  Haray  and  Lewis  reckonied  togidder  is 
accounted  60  myles  more  trulie  46  myles.  fra  the  Harray 
befor  you  cum  to  the  cornlands  of  the  Lewis  ther  ar  ac- 
counted 24  myles  all  consisting  of  mountayns  Glens  muirs 
and  mossis.  The  race  of  the  Clan-Loyd  of  Harray  ar  called 
Siel-Tormoid. 


SKIE  OR  SKIANACH. 

This  Hand  is  great  and  big  lying  northard  north  and  south. 
It  is  40  myle  in  lenth  viz.  betwixt  Tronternes  and  the  poynt 
of  Slait.  it  is  devyded  in  dyvers  parts  designed  be  several! 
names.  Sleit  one  of  them  lyeth  toward  the  south,  perteyning 
to  Donald  Gorum  Mackoneil.  it  is  fertill  of  cornis  and  pasture, 
ther  be  therin  two  ancient  castels,  the  one  lyeth  upon  the  east 
or  southeast,  ovir  agains  Knodeort  called  Castell  Chammer. 
the  uthir  upon  the  nordwest  syd  of  Slait  called  Dunskaigh, 
this  Slait  is  30  merkland. 

After  Slait  is  Strahuardill,  ther  ar  mountaynes  in  it,  whiche 
devyd  it  from  Slait,  and  from  Mackloyd  of  Harray  his  lands 
in  that  lie,  this  part  is  fertill  and  playne,  aboundance  is  therin 
of  herring  and  whit  fishing,  it  perteyneth  to  a  Gentleman  cald 
Mackfenine  or  Mackfenayne.  whose  predecessors  were  Marshals 
to  Mackoneyl  Lord  of  the  lies  in  the  tym  of  the  greatnes  of 
that  hous.  the  inhabitants  are  of  that  race  cald  Mackfenayne. 
besyd  cornis  and  fishes  and  pasture,  it  hath  abundance  of  dear 
and  roe.  it  hath  a  small  castell  called  Killakin,  hard  by  is  the 
He  Scalpa  plentifull  of  dear,  which  doth  much  harme  among 
the  corne  landis,  it  hath  also  wild  sheep,  which  evir  keep  the 
fields,  contrair  to  the  use  of  thois  countreys.  A  church  and 
churchtoun  it  hath  also  upon  the  eastsyd  therof 

Then  followeth  Brayhairport,  and  Troyndernes.  Brayhair- 
port  perteyneth  to  MacLoyd  of  Haray.  ther  ar  yit  thrie  uthir 
small  countreys  therin  viz.  Meiknes  or  Mingeness.  Bragadill 
and  Deurnes.  they  ar  all  good,  and  weill  inhabited,  and  have 
in  them  sum  rivers  stoared  with  salmond  one  castel  is  in 


532  RAASA— LEWIS 

Durenes  cald  Dunveggan.  Mackloyd  his  ordinar  residence  in 
that  countrey. 

Nixt  is  the  countrey  of  Vaternes,  perteyning  to  Mackloyd  of 
Harray,  being  of  old  the  possession  of  Macloyd  of  Lewis,  it 
is  32  merkland  that  is  four  daachs  of  land. 

Drointernes  lyeth  nixt  to  Vadirnes.  and  Brahairport.  Lying 
457.  north  from  Macluyds  countrey.  Two  Loghis  separat  it  from 
the  rest,  and  make  it  almost  ane  Hand,  one  cald  Loghrye,  the 
uthir  Loch-Snisort,  one  castel  it  hath  cald  Dun  Tuylim, 
build  upon  a  hie  rock  in  the  sea,  not  far  from  the  promontorie 
which  beareth  the  name  of  Trointerness,  being  the  most  nord- 
erne  part  of  the  whole  Isle,  ther  ar  dyvers  paroch  kirks  in  this 
countrey  it  is  also  fertil  of  corne,  pasture  and  fisching.  Moun- 
taynes  devyd  it  from  divers  neighbour  lands,  it  is  large  having 
of  lenth  16  or  20  myles,  and  sum  6  or  8  of  breadth,  it  is  reckoned 
fourscoir  markland  all  perteining  to  Donald  Gorum  of  Sleit. 

Raasa  ane  Isle  near  the  Skye  upon  4  myle  long  perteyning 
to  MacGillichallum.  Rasa  of  the  hous  of  Lewis  of  old,  now 
holds  this  lie  of  the  Earl  of  Seafort,  it  hath  one  paroch  kirk 
Kilmaluag  one  castel  called  Breokill,  hard  by  is  Rona,  a  smal 
He,  perteyning  to  that  gentilman  also 

LEWIS  or  LOD-HUIS 

Lewis  is  devyded  from  Haray  as  was  told,  by  a  smal  neck 
of  land,  and  much  wast  ground  is  betwixt  them,  before  you 
come  to  the  habitable  parts  of  Lewis,  ther  ar  certain  parochis 
and  Churchis  in  the  countrey,  the  first  calld  Wuig  ;  the  ordinal- 
place  of  Macloyds  residence,  in  this  countrey  was  Pappa  ane 
Hand  within  the  sea,  a  next  paroch  is  called  Bearnera,  ther 
is  therabout  three  sealochs,  Loch  garlua  on  the  north  of 
Bearnera,  Lochrogan  on  the  southwest  syd,  and  upon  the 
southeast  syd  Lochkeanhowliwaig  at  the  head  of  the  last 
ar  thrie  litle  rivers  with  salmond  fisching  in  them.  Nixt  to 
Bernera  is  the  parish  Charluy.  then  ar  the  parochis  of  Braig- 
garry,  Claddigh  and  Ness,  thois  ar  upon  the  northsyd  of 
Lewis,  but  the  parish  of  Ilayis  is  upon  the  east  syd.  Steorn- 
way  is  the  principal  toune  whair  MacLoyd  used  to  reside,  in 


LEWIS  533 

this  place  is  a  castell,  it  lyeth  betwixt  the  parochins  of  Nes 
and  Ilayis.  The  paroch  of  Loghur  is  upon  the  south  syd  of 
Steornway.  and  upon  the  eastsyd  of  the  countrey.  Upon  the  #& 
south,  wher  is  the  principall  forest  of  the  countrey  cald 
Oysserfaill  among  mountayns  and  glens,  which  abound  with 
great  heards  of  dear,  the  names  of  Lochis  in  this  He  ar  Loch 
Siward  nixt  the  Haray,  it  hath  the  head  eastward,  the  mouth 
southward,  one  smal  river  falleth  in  the  head  therof  cald  the 
water  of  Siward.  A  river  also  called  Logsa  cuming  from  the 
north  and  falleth  in  a  loch  called  Loch-aerisford,  the  mouth  of 
it  is  to  the  east,  it  is  neer  the  forest  spokin  of.  In  the  paroch 
of  Wuicgk  is  a  loch  cald  Loch  Dua,  with  a  river  falling  in 
the  head  therof.  whair  aboundance  of  fishe  in  a  round  water  at 
the  mouth  of  that  river,  which  ar  left  ther  destitute  of  water 
at  the  ebbing  of  the  sea.  At  the  nordwest  of  the  Hand  is  a 
loch  called  Loch  Berwais  of  fresche  water,  the  river  that 
cumeth  from  it  is  onlie  half  a  myle  long,  in  the  year  1585 
it  wes  observed  that  ther  wer  3000  great  salmond  taken  in 
that  smal  portion  of  river. 

Ther  is  a  great  forest  about  that  place  on  the  southsyd  of 
Lewis,  consisting  of  a  great  mountayne  cald  Cadsoil  or  Cad- 
feild  the  deer  of  this  mountaine  all  have  two  tayls,  wherby 
they  are  discerned  from  the  rest. 

Ther  is  a  place  not  far  of  called  Runacabaigh  wher  are 
taken  a  kynd  of  small  fishe,  which  hath  four  feet  lyk  a  lyzard. 
it  is  thick  bodied  and  reidish  coloured,  the  lenth  of  Lewis  is 
40  myles  the  bread  dyvers,  in  sum  place  24.  in  uthirs  half  so 
much,  it  is  fertil  in  every  thing  which  the  rest  of  the  lies 
have.  It  perteyned  to  the  race  of  MacLeod  a  very  ancient 
race  of  people,  who  besyd  were  masters  of  dyvers  uthir  lands, 
they  deryved  thair  descent  from  the  Danish,  thair  surname 
was  Targoill.  Thois  of  the  Haray  were  thair  friends  and 
kinsmen  but  distinguished  be  surname  being  calld  Clan-  459. 
Tormoyd  that  is  Clan  Norman  being  cum  of  one  Norman 
MackLoyd.  Thois  of  Harray  do  yit  remayne  and  have  dyvers 
lands,  but  MackLoyd  of  Lewis  wer  supplanted  by  sum  barons 
of  Fyf,  who  not  able  to  make  use  of  thois  lands,  made  ovir 
thir  rights  to  the  Earle  of  Seafort,  whose  son  now  hath  the 
same 


534  GLENDOCHART 

m  GLENDOCHART. 

This  is  the  draught  of  the  river  of  Dochart,  the  springs 
wherof  ar  very  small  way  from  the  springs  of  Shiro  river, 
which  being  but  a  smal  river,  falleth  in  the  head  of  Lochfyn 
in  Cowel  in  Argyl  not  far  from  the  fall  of  Avon  Fyn  in  the 
said  Loch,  it  runeth  from  west  to  east,  almost  but  sum  to  the 
north. 

Nixt  Carndrum  whilk  is  the  brae  of  Glendochart  upon  the 
northsyd  is  Achantuyn.  Item  upon  the  southwest  or  westsyd 
of  the  fute  of  Binluy  is  Avon  Cononess,  whilk  is  the  head 
spring  of  all  Dochart,  it  is  5  myl  long.  Item  at  the  syd 
Bindochary  an  hie  hill,  and  a  myl  above  Strafillen  is  Corie- 
chuirk  with  firr  wood  and  uthir  timmer  and  4  or  5  sheals. 
Item  upon  the  backsyd  of  Binluy  is  Glenshiro,  with  the  forest 
of  Binluy,  lying  betwix  Glenshiro,  and  Glen  Rara,  nixt  Cory- 
chuirk  is  Acharioch  a  myl  distant.  Heir  do  meet  Goneness 
and  Ederik  and  Corie-Chuirk  at  Acharioch,  foment  and  ovir 
agains  Strafilleu,  nixt  is  Ewich  a  myl  from  Acharioch.  Item 
the  water  of  Ederik  3  myl  long  betwix  Strafillen  and  Loch 
Dochart.  Item  Coryherif  2  myl  from  the  former  with  all 
Terif  a  great  burne  2  myl.  long.  2  myl  therfra,  Innerarduran 
with  Avon  Arduran  falling  out  of  StrickArduran  and  Cory 
Arduran  5  myl  long,  the  said  Avon  2  myl  still  be  east,  on  the 
southsyd  falling  in  Loch  Dochart  be  east  the  yland  is  Inner- 
monochill.  Item  Loch  Dochart  is  5  myl  long  having  pearlis 
and  Cardhergan  in  it.  Item  Corygewrach  3  myl  be  east  the 
former  with  a  great  burne  falling  down  from  Binmeir  with 
wood  upon  it,  it  entereth  the  river  Dochart  be  east  the  loch. 
Item  upon  the  Northsyd  of  Ederig  is  Achanaturig,  a  myl 
thence  Charchio  with  a  burn  cuming  throw  a  glen  4  myl  long 
called  Keul-glen  with  good  shoalings  in  it.  Item  falling  in 
Keulglen,  befor  it  enter  in  Ederig  is  Altcoryhewnan,  upon  the 
westsyd  of  Binhalloin.  Item  2  myl  thence  Strafillen,  whair  ar 
the  ruynes  and  monuments  of  a  fair  kyrk  and  relicts  of  Fillen, 
the  marveills  of  the  graves  therof  ar  known,  a  myl  thence 
Balindeer  with  a  burne,  a  myl  thence  Duynish,  a  myl  thence 
Leyragan  at  the  Lochsyd  of  Dochart  a  myl  thence  Ewyir  at 
461.  the  head  of  Loch  Ewyr  a  myl  long  with  ane  yland  and  sum 


GLEN-LOCHAY  535 

ew  trees  in  it.  At  the  east  end  of  Lochdosart  2  myl  be  east 
ther  is  Achaessen  with  a  great  burn  4  myl  long  cumming  out 
of  Loch  Essen  2  rnyl  long.  2  myl  thence  Creigewran  with  all 
Trebuyl  2  myl  long,  cuming  the  way  from  Glenlochay,  and 
falling  in  Dochart.  2  myl  be  east  ther  Inchewyn,  2  myl  thence 
Lyn,  with  2  burns  falling  in  Dochart  4  myl  long  over  in  one 
the  westermost  cald  JEchalyn,  the  eastermost  Alt  Darnaske 
with  Ardnaske  seat  upon  it.  2  myl  thence  Kreitchoish,  a 
myl  thence  Craignawhirr,  2  myl  therfra  still  east  Craigvain  a 
myl  thence  the  kirk  of  Killyn,  whair  Dochart  falleth  in  the 
west  end  of  Loch  Tay. 

Upon  the  southsyd  of  Dochart  3  myl  be  east  Corygewrach 
is  Suy  with  a  small  burn.  2  myl  thence  Eddira-weanneach 
with  a  woddie  burn  4  myl  long,  falling  from  the  skirts  of  Bin- 
moir.  A  myl  therfra  Leadcharry  with  a  burn  3  myl  long,  a 
myl  thence  Ardchaillie  Ocreach  and  Icrach,  with  a  burn  4  myl 
long,  a  myl  thence  Leyck,  with  a  great  burne  cuming  out  of 
Loch  Killen  and  falling  in  Dochart.  A  myl  thence  Acha- 
charne,  a  myl  thence  Chlewich  a  myle  thence  Kinauty,  hard  by 
is  Achamoir  with  a  burn  cuming  out  of  Lochenabrecolich,  the 
loch  2  myl  long,  the  burn  5  myl  long.  A  myl  thence  Innero- 
kehirt  with  a  great  wood  of  oak.  heir  Dochart  entereth  in 
Loch  Tay. 

GLEN-LOCHAY 

This  river  falleth  in  the  head  of  Loch  Tay  not  half  a  myle 
north  from  the  mouth  of  Dochart  and  the  kirk  of  Killyne  is 
betwix  ther  mouths,  it  cumeth  from  the  nordwest  and  west 
nordwest 

The  uppermost  place  upon  Lochy,  on  the  northsyd  is  Kean- 
knok,  it  is  only  5  myl  from  Achanich-galdan.  Keandknok 
is  5  myl  above  the  kirk  of  Kyllyn.  Item  ther  is  Pittoworny 
with  a  burn  4  myl  long  falling  from  BinGyroy  a  hie  mountayn 
2  myl  thence  Dalgyrdy.  2  myl  therfra  Dumchroisk  with  a 
burn  4  myl  long.  2  myl  thence  Creig.  being  2  myl  be  east 
Finlarig  castell. 

Upon  the  southsyd  of  Lochy  water  is  Dalgheirach  With  all 
Gyrach  2  myl  long,  Item  Cory  Charnuch  with  a  burne  2  myl 
long  and  wood.  Item  3  myl  to  west  Finlarig,  upon  the  north- 


536  GLEN-WRCHAY— LENNOX 

syd  of  Lochay  is  Murrulagan  with  a  burne  2  my  I  long,  a  myl 
east  therfra  is  Mou-yrlonich,  nixt  therto  is  the  Kirk  of  Kyllyne 


FORRESTS  in  thir  BOUNDS 

first  is  Coryba  in  Bra-glen-crevirne  Item  Maim,  Laerne  is 
the  kings  forrest  very  riche  in  deer,  lying  upon  Brae- Wrchay. 
Brae-Lyon,  and  BraeLochy  10  myl  of  lenth.  Item  Bin 
Dowran  a  forest  in  Bra-Glen- Wrchay  5  myl  long.  Item  the 
head  of  Fallacht  river  which  falleth  in  LochAw,  cumeth  out 
of  the  skirt  of  Bin-lhuy. 

GLEN-WRCHAY. 

The  river  Wrchay  falleth  in  the  nordeast  end  of  LochAw 
it  is  composed  of  thrie  branches,  the  sudermost  is  called 
Kaldaw  then  Kinlash  and  Koynlie.  Urchay  cometh  out  of 
Loch  Toelle  two  myl  long,  at  Achachalladyr,  and  meeteth 
with  the  former  waters  at  InnerGawnan  with  Avon  Gawnan, 
the  water  Kinglash  falling  from  Bindawran  is  8  myl  long,  the 
watirs  forsaids  5  myl  long  every  one.  Seats  in  GlenWrchay 
or  Castell — Chulcharn.  2  myl  thence  Stron  Meulachan  Mack 
Gregoir  his  hous.  A  myl  thence  Clachan  Disert  with  a  kirk. 
2  myl  thence  Korygoil  with  a  burne  entering  in  Lochy  river, 
which  is  12  myl  long. 


IN  the  LENNOX  upon  LOCH  LOMUND  SYD 

Errochon  moir  and  beg.  a  myl  thence  Caschill  with 
orchards  and  a  fyne  glen  and  burne  hard  by 

Hard  by  it  is  Arduylick,  2  myl  therfra  Sella  Chory  with  fair 
wood,  a  myl  therfra  is  Ross  standing  in  upon  the  loch  upon  a 
poynt  of  land. 

Haifa  myl  thence  Luirg.  A  myl  thence  Sellach-vin,  Blair- 
lochy  a  myl  thence,  Kaille-moir  with  a  burn  2  myl  thence 
hard  by  Rowisnach  with  the  burn  of  Douchory  hard  betwixt 
the  Loch  and  Meal  Ptermochan,  3  myl  thence  Knockeyilt.  3  myl 
thence  Rowchoishe,  a  myl  thence  Stuk-roy  a  myl  and  a  half 


DISTANCES— TAY— ERIN  537 

thence  Clachwy.  hard  by  Innersnaid.  3  myl  thence  and  foment 
Ylenow,  Powilchrow.  3  myl  hence  Do  win. 

2  myl  from  Dowin  and  ane  above  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Saill  is  Binglass. 

3  myl  above  that  is  Chuletyr. 


NOATS  OF  DISTANCES  OF  PLACES  about  head  of  LOCH- 
TAY  LOCH  ERIN,  L.  DOCHART,  GLEN- 
URQUHAY  &c 

This  I  had  from  Glenurquhay  himself  in  June  1644  at 
Abirdeen. 

Distance  betwixt  L.  Erin  and  L.  Tay — 9  myles.  others 
reckon  it  but  7  myl  at  the  farrest  betwixt  the  heads  of 
them. 

Loch  Erin — 5  myl  of  lenth. 

Loch  Tay  10  myl  the  nearest  way  betwixt  Balloch  and  the 
Kirk  of  Killyn. 

Killyn.  L.  Dochar  9  myl.  and  the  kirk  of  Strafillen  3  myl 
above  the  Loch,  the  loch  itself  is  of  lenth 

Castell  Cheul-Cheurn  and  Finlarig — 26  myl.  the  way  is  up 
Dochart  river  to  the  kirk  of  Strafillen. 

Wrchay  river  is  12  myl  long,  it  ends  at  end  of  Lochaw,  at  the 
Nordeast  part  therof  it  cums  from  L.  Tully  3  myl  long. 

Clachan  Disert  in  Glenurquhay  and  Loch  Rennach — 24 
myl. 

Innerara  and  the  neerest  part  of  Lochaw  to  it — 8  myl. 

Skibbones  in  Cantyr,  whair  L.  Fyn  is  counted  to  begin,  and 
head  of  L  Fyn— 40  m. 

Crowachan  Bain  the  hiest  hill  in  all  Lome  or  the  neighbor- 
ing countreyis  and  Binnevish  in  Lochabir — 24  m. 

Head  of  Loch  Fyn  is  distant  from  the  nearest  part  of  L. 
Aw  8  m. 

Loch  Gher  besyd  Rosneth,  is  of  lenth  above  the  narrow 
ferry— 3  m 

Neerest  distance  between  Arren  Yle  and  Argyl — 12. 


538  ROSS— KISERIN— TURRETAN 

Kirk  of  Clachan  Disert  upon  Lochaw  in  Glenurquhy  and 
the  feinte  of  Kilmourich  upon  L.  Fyn — 8  m. 

Innerara  and  Kilmourich — 6  m. 

Innerara  and  During  ferry  upon  L.  Aw. — 8  m. 

During  and  the  end  of  L.  Aw  14.  m. 

St  Jhonstoun  and  Ballach  at  the  foot  of  Loch  Tay  ar 
distant  26  m  if  you  go  be  Dunkeld  and  follow  the  river, 
but  be  the  nearest  way  throw  Glen  Almond,  it  is  only  18. 


ROSS  and  the  parts  thereof  out  of  Mr  TIMOTHY  PONT 
his  papers. 

LOCH  KISERIN,  LOCH  TURRETAN 

Loch  Kiserin  is  5  myl  long,  heir  is  a  michtie  hie  hill  calFd 
the  Strome.  Above  the  castel  of  Strome  3  m.  from  the  said 
castel  is  the  seat  of  Kiserin  upon  the  southeast  syd  of  Loch 
Kiserin  2  myl  thence  Achnatrad  2  myl  Reshert,  a  myl  thence 
at  Keanloch.  Kiserin.  Reshert  illie  with  Avon  Reshert  cuming 
out  of  Glen  Reshert. 

Item  in  the  Chambrich,  Abirskaig,  12  myle  from  Reshert 
ille  Chombrich  Abrich,  with  a  kirk  cald  Apil-corse,  a  myl 
thence  Chombrich  Mulruy,  then  is  great  desert  and  wildernes 
with  sundrie  burnis  and  smal  stryps,  and  a  row  of  mightie  steep 
hills,  very  roch,  craggy  and  wild  in  this  befor  named  space  of 
12  myles. 

Item  Row  na  Re  is  within  3  myl  to  Chombrich-Mulruy 
very  strait,  steep,  and  rockie  way,  cuming  in  agayn  upon  the 
backsyd  is  Turretan  a  sea  salt  Loch  calld  Loch  Turretan  of 
4  myl  broad,  and  5  myl  long.  There  is  a  litle  inche  at  Kean- 
loch Turretan  upon  the  northend,  called  Ylen  Kiback,  a 
quarter  myl  long  with  wood.  A  myl  from  Turretan  upon  the 
northsyd  of  the  Loch  is  a  seat  caFd  Kiback.  The  water  of 
Turretan  is  6  myl  long  cuming  doun  from  Glen  Turretan, 
whilk  marcheth  with  Kean  Loch-Ew,  cuming  down  from  Bra 
Glen  Turretan  and  hath  a  fresh  loch  upon  the  head  therof 
cald  Loch  Turretan. 


FORRESTS  IN  ROSS— LOCH  EW  539 

FORRESTS  IN  ROSS 

Chluony    upon    the    head    of  Glenmorisdan.    Glas    Letyr^J. 
Afarrig,  Monarr,  Frie  Chaillack  or  Nedd,  Frie  Rennach,  Frie 
Water. 

Upon  the  southsyd  of  Gherloch,  3  myl  from  Kiback  is 
Childaig  3  myl  thence  upon  the  southsyd  also  of  Gherloch 
is  Achaglen,  it  is  3  myl  from  the  saltwater  with  a  burne  of 
3  myl  long  called  Alt  Achaglen.  3  myl  thence,  hard  on  the  sea 
of  Gherloch  is  Achincoul.  3  myl  thence  Clachan-can-Gherloch, 
with  a  kirk.  Heir  at  this  kirk,  Gherloch  goeth  up  in  the 
land  7  myl,  cuming  doun  out  of  Glen-Rorie,  with  dyvers  seats 
upon  it,  it  hath  a  loch  at  the  head  of  a  myl  long  called  Loch 
Rorie  with  yland  Loch  Rorie  in  it.  This  Gherloch  is  10  myl 
long,  and  2  myl.  broad.  Yland  Rorie  hath  a  good  hous  in  it 
and  is  5  myl  up  from  the  kirk. 

A  myl  from  yland  Rorie  is  Letery. 

The  length  of  Ros  is  50  myl  from  Kyntail  to  Tervartness 
the  breadth  from  the  Stokfoord,  or  northeast  syd  of  the  river 
Farrar  parting  it  from  the  Bishoprick  of  Murray,  wherein  the 
countrey  of  the  Aird  is,  is  30  myl  to  Assyn  marche,  whis  is  in 
the  Bishoprick  of  Catnes. 

LOCH  EW  AND  LETYR-EW 

Achanacand  is  6  myl  from  Letery  in  Gherloch,  no  habita- 
tion but  wood  betwix  them.  2  myl  from  the  former,  Acha- 
glenie  with  a  good  river  caled  Avon-Aton  it  is  4  myl  long, 
and  hath  a  fresh  small  Loch  on  the  head  cald  Loch  Achinna- 
sheyn  3  myl  from  Achanacand  is  Achinachene  2  myl  thence 
Achalusk  on  the  northsyd  of  Avon  Con.  A  myl  thence 
Achacroy  2  myl  thence  Clachan-kean  Lochew  with  a  kirk 
situat  on  the  mouth  of  Avon  Con  upon  this  Lochew,  do  grow 
plentie  of  very  fair  firr,  hollyn  oak,  elme,  ashe,  birk  and 
quaking  asp,  most  high,  even,  thicke  and  great,  all-longst  this 
loch. 

The  fresch  Loch  of  Ew,  wherin  AvonCon  runneth,  is 
12  myl  long  and  4  myl  broad  with  24  fair  yles  in  it.  10  myl 
from  the  kirk  forsaid  is  the  seat  of  Ew  upon  Avon  Ew.  it  is 


540  LOCH  BRUYN 

466-  3  myl  from  the  mouth  of  Lochew,  and  the  falling  of  Avon  Ew 
in  the  sea. 

It  is  7  myl  of  hills  and  desert  betwix  the  head  of  Avon 
Grunord  and  Loch  Garavad  near  the  head  of  Letyr  Ew. 

Ther  ar  great  hills  betwix  Can  Loch  Ew  and  Loch  Bruyne 
whereof  the  special  is  called  Bin-Nedd  verie  plentifull  and 
rich  in  deer.  Item  2  myl  from  the  seat  of  Ew  is  the  seat 
of  Inner-Ew  the  woods  about  Loch-Ew  ar  called  generally 
Letyr  Ew. 

Loch  Grunord  upon  the  north  edge  of  Loch  Aw  is  3  myl 
long  and  als  much  broad. 

Avon  Brechack  8  myl  of  lenth,  falls  in  the  head  of  the 
fresche  Loch  Ew  and  the  head  of  the  said  river  march  with 
Strabran  on  the  River  Connan. 

The  salt  Lochew  is  7  myl  long,  and  3  myl  vyd  at  sum 
parts  and  narrower  at  the  mouth.  Ships  may  sayl  up  to  the 
Keanloch  at  Innerew,  (al  this  in  the  salt  Loch,)  wher  is  a 
proper  Hand  called  Yland  Ew,  this  Loch  is  very  commodiously 
seated  for  betwix  the  salt  and  the  fresch  Loch,  the  river 
runneth  scarss  a  myl,  and  in  winter  is  portative  for  boats  to 
bring  them  up  to  the  fresch  loch,  ther  ar  manie  salmond  in 
the  river,  this  river  Ew  with  Dochart,  Menister  Brochaig, 
Garriff  fall  in  Lochew,  by  sum  it  is  cald  Loch  Mulruy.  this  fair 
Loch  is  reported  never  to  freze.  it  is  compasd  about  with 
many  fair  and  tali  woods  as  any  in  all  the  west  of  Scotland, 
in  sum  parts  with  hollyne,  in  sum  places  with  fair  and  beauti- 
full  fyrrs  of  60,  70,  80  foot  of  good  and  serviceable  timmer  for 
masts  and  raes,  in  other  places  ar  great  plentie  of  excellent 
great  oakes,  whair  may  be  sawin  out  planks  of  4  sumtyms  5  foot 
broad.  All  thir  bounds  is  compas^d  and  hemd  in  with  many 
hills  but  thois  beautifull  to  look  on,  thair  skirts  being  all 
adorned  with  wood  even  to  the  brink  of  the  loch  for  the  most 
part. 

467.  LOCH  BRUYN  OR  WRUYIN 

It  is  counted  but  12  myl  betwix  the  kirk  of  Keanloch 
Breyin  and  the  kirk  of  Keanloch  Ew  but  it  is  indeed  15 
myle. 

It  is  betwix  the  kirk  of  Loch  Carrown  and  the  kirk  of  Kean- 


GLEN-ELCHEG  54-1 

lochew  12  myle.  24  myle  betwix  it  and  the  kirk  of  Contan,  24 
myl  betwix  Kean  Lochew  and  Contan  24  myl  twix  Keanloch 
breyn  an  Contan 

Four  myl  from  Innerew  is  Grunyeord  seat.  Ylen  Grunyeord 
in  the  sea,  2  myl  thence  Drumna-chork  3  myl  thence  Breck- 
lach  this  quarter  is  full  of  wood  and  steip  hills.  Hard  on  the 
sea  bank  at  Brecklach,  falleth  in  the  sea  the  water  of  Strabeg. 
upon  it  is  the  seat  of  Achglownachan,  the  water  is  4  myl  long- 
2  myl  from  Brecklach  is  Larg  upon  the  seasyd,  3  myl  thence 
is  Clachan  Loch  Bruyne  with  a  kirk  upon  Can  Loch  Bruyne, 
it  hath  Avon  Auchadren  running  in  the  said  Canloch,  of  the 
lenth  7  myl,  a  myl  from  the  kirk  upon  the  watersyd  is  Acha- 
lunachan  2  myl  thence  is  Achadreynie.  Item  upon  the  water- 
syd of  Avon  Achadren  a  myl  from  the  former  Achatiskaillie. 
A  myle  thence  Ballewlair  standing  upon  the  mouth  of  the  said 
water,  hard  upon  Keanloch  Bruyne  half  a  myl  thence  Inner- 
laenbeg,  with  a  burn  cald  Alt-Laen,  half  a  myl  thence  Innerlaen- 
Moir,  hard  on  the  salt  water  of  Loch  Bruyne  Loch  Bruyn  is 
10  myl  long. 

GLEN-ELCHEG. 

Killewlan  is  upon  the  southeastsyd  of  the  salt  loch  of  Loch- 
long  a  myl  thence  is  Achacharn,  a  myl  from  thence  Achacharne 
Meanach.  a  myl  thence  Achacharn-ocrach  from  thence  2  myl 
Achacharn  Rogan  with  Loch  Achachowrin 

Duilik  is  a  seat  in  Bra-Glen  Elcheg  2  myl  from  Achachowrin 
is  Maimmaig 

Item  the  countrey  of  Kantell  is  devyded  in  twa  parts  viz 
Lettyr  Aim  nearest  Loch  Duich  and  Letyr  Choylle  nearest  408. 
Glen  Elcheg. 

Avon  loing  falleth  in  Loch  loing,  a  salt  loch,  out  of  Glen- 
loing  and  is  10  myl  long.  Ther  are  two  Loches  upon  Avon 
loing.  Loch  Awich  nearest  the  brae  or  head  of  Glen  Elcheg, 
within  4  myl  to  the  brae  of  Glen  Elcheg,  the  said  Loch  Awich 
is  a  fresh  water  loch  of  3  myl  long  and  moir  with  certain  yles 
in  it,  and  sum  shaels  in  the  glen  about  it,  with  hills  and  woods 
the  other  loch  is  cald  Loch  Monery,  the  moss  hils  and  wilder- 
nes  of  Monie  Rioch,  marchis  hard  on  the  southeastsyd  of  Loch 
Monery. 


542  LOCH  AELSH— GLEN-ELG 

Loch  Monery  is  be  north  Loch-Awich  and  is  3  myl  long 
(but  I  do  suppon  rather  that  this  Loch  Monery  falleth  in  the 
head  of  Ferrar  or  rather  of  Connel  as  wil  be  specified  after- 
ward. The  said  Loch  Monery  hath  an  yland  or  two,  with  wood 
and  high  hills  about  it. 

Upon  Awich  is  Cory  Awich,  3  myl  thence  down  is  the  seat 
of  Cory-Go  wen,  3  myl  thence  Nonach  upon  the  mouth  of 
Loyng.  2  myl  thence  Con-ocra.  Item  the  town  ovir  agains  the 
castell  of  Ylon-donan 

About  the  kirk  of  Combrich  al  alongs  is  a  very  rough 
countrey  being  as  it  wer  a  cory  of  hills  hard  to  travail  in  it 
even  upon  foot,  it  hath  a  fair  hieland  kirk,  wher  hath  bene  a 
girth  or  asylum,  as  the  name  importeth  its  cald  Apil-cors  kirk 

LOCH  AELSH. 

Tua  myle  from  Con-Ocra  above  said  is  Ardelu,  tua  myl 
thence  Achinnacloick  with  a  water  and  great  wood.  2  myl 
thence  the  kirk  of  Kilchoen  in  Loch-Aelsh.  2  myl  from  Kil- 
choen  is  Balmac  cairen  with  a  burn  betwix  them,  and  also  the 
burn  of  Alt-Maccairen.  3  myl  thence  is  Achinnadarroch  2  myl 
thence  Duremness.  2  myl  thence  Derbissaig  foment  castell 
Chewlis  Akir.  Item  2  myl  from  Derbissaig  is  Creig,  from  that 
a  myl  is  Barnesaeg,  upon  the  mouth  of  Avon  Hasgeg,  which 
runneth  thro  StrathHasgeg,  a  myl  thence  Achaglen,  2  myl 
thence  Mameg  the  the  Uppermost  in  Strath  Hasgeg.  Tua 
myl  above  Mameg  is  Loch  Nonach  besyd  Nonach  above 
specified.  Item  from  Barnseg  Moir  and  Beg  in  Strathasgeg  a 
myl  betwix  them,  this  meikle  of  the  salt  Loch  Aelsh,  the 
countrey  perteining  to  it  is  almost  all  fyn  green  ground  with 
rued  soyl,  hillish,  and  banks  weel  stored  with  water  and 
wood. 

GLEN-ELG 

From  Canloch-Owrin  and  Barisdaill,  the  first  town  in  Glen 
Elg,  called  Auchacharne  is  distant  3  myl.  from  thence  four 
myl  Glenbeg  with  a  water  falling  in  Loch  Owrin  thrie  myl 
from  Achacharne.  the  said  Glenbeg  is  3  myl  long  environed 
with  hils  and  woods.  Item  from  Glenbeg  is  Childeg,  a  myl 


KEANTAILL 

upon  the  mouth  of  the  water  of  Glenbeg,  ther  ar  but  twa 
touns  moir  in  Glenbeg. 

Item  from  Kilchonen  is  Achmacre  in  the  mids  of  Glen  Elg. 
Item  from  Childag  a  myl  is  Glenmoir  5  myl  long,  a  myl  from 
Childag  is  Kilchonan  with  a  kirk,  half  a  myl  thence  Barnsaig- 
moir,  half  a  myl  thence  Barnsaig  Beg,  twa  myl  thence  on  the 
uther  syd  of  the  water  of  Glenmoir  is  Achintoul.  3  myl  thence 
Achacharn  with  a  loch  twa  myl  long  cald  Loch  Sell  falling  in 
Glenmoir  burn,  environed  with  hils  and  woods,  in  Glenshell  3 
or  4  touns. 

Upon  the  southsyd  of  Glenbeg  water  falleth  in  the  burn 
Achaglein,  ther  ar  twa  Achagleins  upon  this  syd  and  the 
younder  syd  of  the  burn. 

Item  north  from  Kilwhonan  2  myl  is  Leadgachulle. 

Item  ther  lacketh  here  about  10  seats  in  Glenelg.     A  myl  470. 
from  the  former  Achacharn  lyeth  another  Achacharne  under 
Bin  Achacharn  upon  the  northsyd  of  Bra  glen  moir. 

Item  3  myl  from  Chewlis  Re  at  the  mouth  of  Loch  Dowich 
is  the  seat  of  Toldowy. 

Item  the  march  betwix  Glenelg  and  Kantell  is  the  seat 
Rosaig  a  myl  from  Toldowy  Dowi  upon  the  southsyd  of  Loch 
Dowich. 

KEANTAILL. 

The  lenth  of  the  countrey  of  Keantell  from  the  west  at  the 
Castel  Ylen  Donen  to  the  hils  of  Avarig  (from  which  on  the 
east  syd  therof,  run  down  the  rivers  of 

to  the  east  sea  and  to  Beaulie)  is  twell  myles,  the  breadth 
betwix  Glenelcheg  of  Keantel  at  the  north  and  Glenelg  per- 
teyning  to  Mackloyd  at  the  south,  towit  betwix  the  seat  of 
Achacharn  in  Glenelg  and  the  seat  of  Killewnan  in  Glenelcheg 
or  Glenelicht. 

Item  from  Cosaig  a  myl  is  Toldowy  in  Keantell  upon  the 
southsyd  of  Loch  Dowich.  a  myl  thence  Rinaeg  Beg,  a  myl 
thence  Rinaegmoir  upon  Avon  Rinaeg  falling  out  of  Glen 
Rinaeg  8  myl  long  in  Loch  Dowich.  Upon  the  southsyd  % 
myl  thence  Achacharn  upon  Canloch  Dowich.  Item  upon  the 
southsyd  of  Achacharn  falleth  in  Canloch  Dowich,  Avon  Sell 
with  a  town  called  Innersell  twa  myl  from  Achacharn.  Item 


544  KEANTAILL 

a  myl  neerer  castell  Hen  Donen  is  Kildowich  Item  Inner 
Rinaeg  is  tvva  myl  up  in  the  glen  abow  Kildowich  upon  the 
water  of  Rinaeg.  Item  a  myl  thence  Kilrinaeg  a  myl  above 
Kildowich  in  the  Glen.  Item  Morroch  a  myl  from  Kildowich 
upon  Canloch  Dowich,  a  myl  thence  down  upon  Lochdowich 
another  Kilrinaeg  a  myl  thence  Auchaquhill,  a  myl  thence 
Coulchoullie  a  myl  thence  Castel  Hen  Donen. 

Memorandum  The  coast  of  Scotland  boweth  ever  inward 
to  the  south  southeast  fra  Row  na  Ra  at  the  north  cheek  of 
Gherloch,  whill  we  cum  to  Chewles  Rae  in  the  narrow  firth 
betwix  the  Yle  of  Sky  and  the  Mayn  be  south  West  Ylen 
Donen 

Kintuil  a  fair  and  sweet  countrey  watered  with  divers  rivers 
covered  with  strait  glenish  woods,  it  is  18  myl  long  and  more, 
it  hath  these  rivers,  Avon  luong  8  myl  long  and  fals  in 
Keanlochluong,  which  salt  Loch  is  thrie  rnyl  long,  seated  upon 
the  northsyd  of  that  goodlie  strait  of  sea  wher  Castel  lien 
Donnen  standeth  near  Avon  Elcheg  falls  in  the  head  of  this 
Lochluong  being  nine  myl  long,  having  sum  fresche  lochs, 
prettie  wood  and  sheiling  marching  with  the  hycht  of  the 
forest  of  Glasletyr.  Loch  Dowich  a  salt  Loch,  over  agains 
Castle  Hen  Donnen,  is  four  myl  and  strait  at  the  entrie  in  the 
sea.  Upon  it  is  the  kirk  of  Kil-Dowich  in  it  fall  the  small 
rivers  Connueg  and  Lyeck  who  joyned  in  one  are  called  Avon 
Chro.  About  a  myl  from  that,  fals  in  the  said  Loch  Avon 
Sheill,  13  myl  long,  out  of  the  freshe  Loch  Sheil,  marching 
with  the  head  of  the  forest  of  Chluony  cald  Maim  Chluony, 
heir  on  the  east  nordeastsyd  of  Avon  Sheill  ar  divers  hie 
mountaynes,  but  Skor  na  Morroch  and  above  al  and  ovirtopping 
all  is  SkorRoura.  Upon  this  river  of  Shiel  also  is  a  fair 
hollyn  wood  cald  Letyr  Choulynn.  the  Castel  of  Ylen  Donen 
is  composed  of  a  strong  and  fair  dungeon  upon  a  rock  with 
another  tower  compasd  with  a  fair  Barnkin  wall  with  orchards 
and  trees  all  within  ane  yland  of  the  lenth  of  twa  pair  of 
butts  almost  round  it  is  sayd  that  of  old  that  castel  consisted 
of  seaven  tours. 


ASSYN— STRA-OKELL  545 

ASSYN. 

Assyn  is  twell  myl  long  and  18  myl  broad,  upon  the  north 
a  salt  Loch,  is  march  betwix  it  and  Edera-Chewlis,  upon  the 
north  east  is  Stranavern,  and  Brachat,  upon  the  west,  the  sea, 
and  upon  the  south  Coygach. 

The  countrey  of  Assyn  is  devyded  in  four  portions  to  wit  472, 
Slesse  Chewles  upon  Chewles  gung.    Etyr  a  vyisk  reaching  from 
the  river  of  Trull igyr  to  the  river  Chircag.  party ng  Assyn 
from  Coygach.     the  third  is  Row  Stoir,  running  in  the  sea 
ovir  agains  the  Lewes,     the  fourt  is  Bra  Assyn. 

Loch  Assyn  is  15  myl  long.  Coygach  is  10  myl  long  and  7 
myl  broad.  12  myl  from  Langel  in  Coygach  to  Amad  na 
Gouillyin  in  Stra  Okell. 

Avon  Glenduy  is  5  my  11  long,  and  falleth  in  Loch  Assyn 
at  Achanahoglis. 

Avon  Stronchrowbie  of  4  or  5  myl  lenth,  cumeth  out  of 
Loch  Letyra,  which  hath  a  smal  yle  in  it.  it  falleth  in 
Trallygyr  river,  midway  betwix  Loch  Burrowlan,  and  Loch 
Assyn  at  the  northsyd  of  the  said  river,  and  at  the  seat  cald 
Stronchrowby. 

STRA-OKELL. 

Beginning  at  Dornoch  in  Sutherland,  a  myl  thence  up  to  the 
ferry  Dilleg,  a  myl  thence  is  Shyra,  a  myl  thence  Skibo,  with 
a  water  betwix,  half  a  myl  thence  Pulrossie,  with  a  salt  water 
loch,  and  a  burn  falling  in  the  head  therof,  a  myl  from  that 
Achacharrich  with  a  good  house  and  a  burne.  twa  myl  thence 
Spanyedall  with  Avon  Spanyedal.  thrie  myl  long,  with  Loch 
Migedal  a  myl  long,  with  Ylen  Loch  Migedall  with  a  house  in 
it,  a  myle  up  the  water  of  Spanydal  Cruiks  with  a  kirk,  a 
myl  thence  Sowerdil.  a  myl  thence  Makel,  a  myl  thence 
Innersinn. 

The  water  of  Stra  Okell  runneth  straicht  east,  it  is  30  myl 
betwix  Bra  stra  okell  and  the  toun  of  Tayne  it  is  4  myl 
betwix  Bra  Stra  Okell  and  Bra-Charroun,  that  bounds  is 
called  Bin  Achnagowen.  Item  the  head  of  the  water  of  alt 
Gellagach  cumeth  out  of  Assyn,  and  is  march  betwix  Assyn 
and  Bra-Stra-Okell.  Item  the  burn  of  Alt  Leachmoir 

VOL.   II.  2  M 


546  STRA  CHARROUN 

runneth  out  of  Locli  na  laid  moir  the  said  Loch  4  myl.  long, 
and  falleth  in  Okell. 

4?s.  Monie-Helaeg  is  the  wilderness  upon  Bra  Stra  Okell.  Six 
myl  from  Lochnalaydmoir  is  Turnaeg-ocrach  upon  the  riorth- 
syd  of  Okel,  hard  by  is  Turnaeg  lerach,  a  myl  beneth  that  on 
the  southsyd  of  Okel  is  Langol,  half  a  myl  thence  is  Bra  stra 
okel  down  a  quarter  myl  thence  is  from  it  twa 

myl  is  Tenuck.     Tenuck  is  above  the  river  mouth  of  Okel 
2  myl. 

Following  up  the  river  Okel  fra  the  mouth,  nearest  Ochtow 
is  Brae  on  the  southsyd  1  myl.  then  a  myl  above  it  on  that 
same  syd  Amad.  2  myl  above  it  Keurny.  and  J  myl  above  that 
Cragy.  on  the  northsyd  is  six  myl  above  the  mouth  therof 
is  Kean-loch-ailsh.  Turnaeg  era  is  beneth  it  on  that  same 
syde  1  myl  \  myl.  Turnaeg  ocra  above  it  on  that  same  syd 
Turnaeg  ocra  half  a  myl  beneath  the  lowest  Ocra  on  that 
same  syd  is  Tuytintervah  2  myl.  beneath  that  on  the  northsyd 
still  is  Knoken  with  a  kirk  \  myl.  then  is  Innerchassill.  a  myl 
and  half,  heir  the  water  of  Chafla  divydes  Stra  Okel  fra 
Sutherland. 

ther  is  up  Chassil  on  Stra  Okel  syd  Glenchassil  a  seat  up 
the  water  2  myl  and  a  litle  above  it  on  that  same  syd  \  myl 
is  a  seat  cald  Glenmuick. 

STRA  CHARROUN 

The  head  of  Strath  Carroun  is  30  myl  fra  Tayne  south 
south  west  *  The  uppermost  town  on  it  is  Achanagowen,  twa 
myl  bennoth  the  head  of  Glenmoir,  whilk  is  the  uppermost 
branche  of  the  water  of  Carrown,  a  myl  thence  Esbulg  Avon 
Esbulg  6  myl  long,  the  said  river  cumeth  out  of  Cory-Voynlie 
and  runneth  in  upon  the  north  syde  of  Carroun.  2  myl 
thence  Amad.  a  myl  thence  Amad  na  heglisse  with  gryt  firr 
woods,  these  twa  Amads  upon  the  north  syd  of  Carroun  a 
myl  thence  on  the  southsyd  Crunnord-ocrach  and  half  a  myl 
thence  Alt  Crunnord,  half  a  myl  thence  Crunnord-icrach.  3 
myl  thence  Downie  loerne,  with  a  burne  betwix  them,  a  myl 
^.thence  Layd-Clamag,  Ovir  on  the  mouth  of  Carroun  as  it 

*  It  is  rather  W.N.W.     [This  is  a  marginal  note  on  MS.— ED.] 


STRA  CHARROUN  547 

falleth  in  the  sea  is  InnerCarroun.  hard  on  the  north  syd  of  it. 
A  myle  thence  on  the  northsyd  of  Carroun  is  Knokinarrow, 
hard  by  it,  is  Langel-icrach,  ane  myl  from  it  is  Langel-Ocrach 
2  myl  thence  Scudechaell  and  then  there  ar  no  more  seats 
upon  Charroun. 

Hi  Is  in  Stracharroun.  Frie  water,  Iskinavar  Coryvoynlie 
with  the  hills  of  Glenmoir. 

The  Firth  of  Tayne  from  Tervartness  runneth  up  24  myl, 
opening  to  the  southward  as  al  the  draught  of  it  looketh 

There  ar  in  Stracharroun,  upon  the  ferry  that  goeth  up  to 
Okel  river,  Kilmachalmag  with  a  chappell,  and  a  burn  of  yt 
name  twa  myl  long,  cuming  down  from  Bra-Stra  Charroun.  2 
myl  from  Kilmachalmag  downward  is  Auchinnagat.  2  myl 
thence  Teneneur.  2  myl  therfra  Carbisdaill.  with  a  burn  be  east 
and  a  Chewlis.  myl  and  half  myl  therfra  the  seat  of  Inner- 
charroun  2  myl  from  Inner- Charroun  eastward  Kincarn  kirk 
with  a  toun  and  a  burn  2  myl  therfra  Faern-Ocrach  a  myl 
therfra  Faernlcrach  with  alt  Faern  5  myl  long,  half  a  myl 
thence  Dun-Alliskaeg  with  great  ruynes  of  a  Pictish  fort  or 
sum  ancient  building. 

Betwix  Tayn  and  Kincardyn  ar  8  myl,  the  sea  filleth  up 
above  Kincarne  14  myl. 

2  myl  from  Faern  Icrach  is  Dunivastray,  half  a  myl  therfra 
is  Ardmoir,  a  myl  thence  Dallashbeg,  with  Avon  Dallash,  hard 
by  Dallashmoir  upon  the  uther  syd  of  this  Avon,  hard  by  it  is 
Balinlich,  and  hard  by  it  Edir  Din,  with  a  kirk  a  myl  therfra 
is  Caimscurrv.  hard  by  Tarlagy.  a  myl  thence  to  Balegowich 
or  Tayne.  Item  Timort  a  myl  fra  Tayne.  heir  was  the  Laird 
of  Balnagown  killed  upon  the  bank  of  Alt-Row. 

Lochsynn  in  Sutherland  is  12  myl  long,  and  the  river,  after  475. 
it  cum  from  the  loch,  to  the  fall  in  the  firth  of  Charrown  is 
6  myll.     It  is  24  or  25  myl  betwix  Kincarne  kirk  beneth 
Innercharroun  and  Loch  Bruyn  the  string  way  is  up  the  water 
Okell  upon  2  myl  and  ther  throw  the  month. 

Betwix  Ardbrak  in  Assyn  and  Innercharroun  is  about  30 
myl  the  way  is  up  Okel  river  7  myl  and  then  north  throw  the 
months. 

Betwix  Skormyvarr,  whair  Charroun  springeth  and  Tayn  30 
myl.  Coygach  is  at  the  west  of  Skormyvarr. 


548          LOCH  CARROUN— GLEN  MORISDEN 

LOCH  CARROUN  upon  the  WEST  SEA. 

Imprimis  upon  Loch-Ailch  on  the  chuck  of  the  mouth  of 
Loch  Carroun  is  Loch  Waren.  3  myl  thence  upon  the  southeast 
syd  of  Loch  Carroun  Achawanie.  3  myl  thence  upon  the  syde 
of  Loch  Carrown  is  Atadill-moir.  Haifa  myl  thence  Atadilbeg 
a  myl  from  that  is  Achanty.  the  sea  tioweth  no  fardir  up  in 
Loch  Carrown,  and  heir  is  the  mouth  of  Avon  Carroun.  this 
river  is  ten  myl  long,  it  hath  Lochinbary,  in  Glengeisacham  a 
myl  uppermoir  upon  the  south  and  Lochscamen  falling  down 
from  Auchinashilach,  Lochscamen  a  myl  long,  with  an  yle  and 
a  hous  in  the  midst  of  it.  from  Achanty  3  myl  up  on  the 
southsyd  of  Carrown  is  Cory-nachtie.  3  myl  thence  Balnlair. 
2  myl  thence  Auchinashillach.  Upon  the  northsyd  of  Loch 
Carroun.  3  myl  thence  Dalmartyne.  A  myl  thence  Loch 
Dowill,  2  myl  long  streaching  betwix  Achanashillach  and 
Dalmartyne,  and  twa  myl  broad  with  ane  Inche 

From  Dalmartine  3  myl  upon  the  sea  of  Loch  Carroun 
agayn  Edira  Charrin.  a  myl  thence  Rivowchan  upon  the 
northsyd  of  Loch  Carroun  heir  is  Avon  Rivowachan  2  myl 
long  cuming  out  of  Glenowchan.  Half  a  myl  thence  Achachuil. 
Half  a  myl  thence  Bracklach.  A  myl  thence  Clachan  Mulruy 
with  a  kirk  and  a  toun,  nix  Mulruy  half  a  myl  from  it  is  Down 
476.  a  myl  thence  Lundy,  a  myl  thence  Stanoim  a  myl  thence  the 
castell  Stronie.  Loch  Carroun  is  2  myl  broad  foments  Acha- 
vanie,  but  uppermore  in  the  land  it  is  4,  5,  6,  or  7  myl  broad. 
The  countrey  of  Loch  Carroun  is  18  myl  of  lenth  from 
Achinashelach  at  the  nordeast  to  Strome  Castell,  at  the  south 
west  it  is  8  myl  broad.  It  is  4  myl  betwix  Kean  Loch  Carroun 
and  Rossoll  and  3  myl  more  to  the  kirk  of  Combaich. 

Ther  ar  two  great  mountains  within  4  myl  to  Achinashelach 
the  on  calld  Barranis,  the  uthir  called  the  hills  of  Binlaid  Gour 
and  Binglen-laid  Gour. 

GLEN  MORISDEN  and  the  MABCHIS  of  the  BORDERING 
LANDS 

The  burn  called  Alt  Beatadrum  4  myl  long,  cuming  down 
from  Glenconnel  in  Bra  Urchadyn.  the  seats  on  it  specified  in 


AIHD  549 

Aird  also.  The  Burne  of  Bomag  4  myl  long,  coming  out  of 
the  month  called  the  Caplosh  at  Bra  Urchadin,  the  seats 
therof  specified  in  the  Aird. 

Two  myl  from  the  said  burn  is  the  burn  of  Balnakeglise, 
3  myl  long,  ther  ar  5  seats  on  it  it  cumeth  out  of  the  month 
of  Caploch.  Nixt  it  a  short  burn  cald  Bunchrew  3  seats  upon 
it  mentioned  in  the  Aird. 

The  Bra  of  Glenmorisden  besyd  Corygaen  is  the  march 
betwix  Glengarif  and  Glenmorisden  It  is  6  myl  betwix  the 
head  of  Glenmorisden  and  Moni  riach 

Glenloyne  is  march  betwix  Glengariff  and  Can-loch-owrin 
in  Glenelg.  It  is  15  myl  from  Canloch-Owrin  to  Monie  riach 
all  montaynes  and  wood  in  Glenloyne  and  steap  hills.  Upon 
the  Northsyd  of  Glenloyne  a  row  of  hills  called  Moulchen- 
tirach 

North  betwix  Kentail  and  Bra  Glen  Morisden  the  Loch  of 
Clunie  3  myl  long  and  fals  in  the  head  of  Glemorisden  water,  477, 
the  said  Loch  Clunie,  and  Strath  Chluynie  is  march  betwix 
Kintail  and  Glen  morisden.    Item  the  hills  of  Chluynie.  ther  is 
never  a  hous  upon  Chluynie  but  sheils  and  wood. 

The  march  betwix  Knodeort  and  Glen-eglis,  or  Glenelg  is 
the  salt  water  loch  called  Loch  Owrin,  whilk  is  environed  with 
black  mountayns  and  uglie  rugged  steep  rocks  with  plentie  of 
wood  on  both  syds. 

Upon  the  height  of  Glenmorisden  water,  upon  the  southwest 
syd  therof  is  Doun-no-whurr  2  myl  thence  beneth,  on  the  south 
west  syde  is  Koynachan,  upon  the  southwest  syd  also  2  myl 
beneth  the  former,  and  hard  upon  the  water  is  Cresky.  2  myl 
thence  Blaerrie  upon  the  southwest.  Inner  Buick  a  myl  from 
the  former  with  Avon  Buick,  a  myl  thence  Dundreggan  Moir, 
and  Beg,  2  myl  thence  Achanagonnyr.  Item  Innermorisden. 

AIRD. 

Seats  in  Aird.  Familan  upon  the  water  of  Downy.  2  myl 
thence  Downy  or  Beaufort  Castell.  a  myl  thence  Doun  Bal- 
lach,  a  myl  thence  Lowed,  a  myl  from  Loved  is  Knokinomori, 
half  a  myl  Fumesk,  haf  a  myl  thence  Greame  on  the  sea  coast, 
a  myl  thence  Achinnagarin,  a  myl  from  Achinagarin  Bonieg- 


550  URWHODIN— CONNEL 

ocrach  half  a  myl  thence  Bonieg  Icrach,  a  myl  thence  on  the 
sea  Drumchardeny  2  myl  thence  Balnaheglish  a  myl  thence 
Bun  Chrew,  thir  ar  the  special  seats  in  the  Aird,  except  on  the 
hight  of  Glenconigh  Heglischoen,  a  myl  thence  Chulachie,  a 
myl.  thence  upward  Cloubakky. 

The  burne  of  Downie  or  Bewfort  is  3  myl  long,  the  burne 
of  Bruyok  fals  in  the  forsaid  burn,  this  last  burn  2  myl  and 
runeth  from  Loch  Bruvok  2  myl  long,  this  loch  hath  ane  Yle 
in  it  at  the  upper  end,  wher  the  ground  of  ane  hous  in  it, 
towards  the  west  the  seats  of  Alt  Downie  ar  reckoned  before 


478.  URWHODIN. 

In  Bra-Urwhodin,  3  myl  from  Geusachan  in  Strathglassie 
is  Corymony.  A  myl  thence  Agely,  a  myl  from  that  Scoggely, 
a  myl  therfra  Lodety.  4  myl  from  thence  Pitchorrell.  2  myl 
therfra  Bale-Mackaen,  a  myl  thence  Diveak.  Upon  the  south- 
syd  of  the  water  of  Kayiltie,  a  myl  besouth  the  former  is 
Borlan,  a  myl  thence  Kilmore  with  the  kirk.  A  myl  fra  that 
Stron  Chastell,  with  the  Castal  of  Urquhart  very  fair,  sumtyms 
perteyning  to  the  Lords  of  the  Yles,  and  build  be  them  as  is 
alledged  very  fair  in  situation.  Item  upon  the  north  syd  of 
the  water  of  Urwhodin  ar  these  following,  the  Chappell  upon 
Lochness  syd,  a  myl  thence  Drumbuy  2  myl  thence  Ach- 
achourny.  half  a  myl  therfra  Achachourny.  half  a  myl  thence 
Koul  na  kirk,  half  a  myl  therfra  Gartale  a  myl  therfra  Achin- 
taembrack  or  Fold  of  clavers  a  myle  therfra  Dowleshv  a  my] 
fra  that  is  Micklie  Icrach  a  myl  from  it  is  Micklie  Ocrach 
with  a  fresh  water  Loch  two  myl  of  lenth  cald  Loch  Micklie. 
Item  LochenRuddich  the  litle  as  we  pass  from  Urquhodin  to 
Invernes  the  hie  way 


CONNEL  or  CONNEN  RIVER 

This  river  rysing  out  of  the  hills  of  the  inlands  of  Ros, 
falleth  in  the  firth  of  Cromartie  some  myl  of  ground  be  south 
Dingwell.  The  uppermost  Glen  upon  the  head  of  it  is  called 
GlenWiaig,  there  the  river  springeth  out  of  the  hie  hill  of 
Barnis.  Avon  GlenWiaig  runneth  in  Loch  Branchar,  the  Loch 


CONNEL  551 

is  3  myl  long  with  ane  yle  in  it.  Nixt  that  is  Glen  Stra  Bran 
down  beneth  the  former  cuming  out  of  Loch  Chert,  whilk  is 
3  myl  long.  Item  7  myl  above  that  Loch  Krowye  Item  a 
myl  above  that  Loch  Achrosk  Item  the  high  hill  hard  by  cald 
Beanshyr  Layd.  The  high  hill  of  Bhearnish  with  the  haughis 
and  stank  therof  is  20  vulgar  myles  from  Dingwell.  Glenstra- 
bran  is  7  myl  long,  betwix  Kean  Loch  Luychart  and  Kean 
Loch  Chrosk.  Ther  ar  upon  the  northsyd  of  Loch  Luychart  47^. 
twa  small  Inches  of  fresh  water  betwix,  or  the  said  Loch 
Fannich  being  six  myl  long  falleth  in  the  river  of  Connel. 

Loch  Monery  is  midway  betwix  the  great  hill  of  Avarry  & 
Browlyn.  Item  Skurnagonery  in  Kintail,  half  a  myl  thence 
Skeal-na-mownan  (or  gushing  and  pissing  hills)  Beneth  that 
a  myl  Whoying  in  English  the  Yoak,  a  high  hill,  and  Cory- 
Whoyng.  Item  the  hils  of  Tol  na  Mewlich.  Besyd  is  Avon 
Riochar  cuming  out  of  Mony  Riochar.  Item  the  hie  hills 
upon  Loch  Fannich  or  Beanderawen  upon  the  south.  Upon 
the  north  therof  is  Mealanchoich,  ther  is  also  upon  the  north 
therof  Bellach  Kresky.  Item  Karrockinn.  Thrie  myl  thence 
upon  the  head  of  Fannich  is  Schron-Duf-Glash.  Item  3  myl 
north  from  this  is  Bindearg-garorain  with  Loch  Gorarain. 
Item  Strahendyrry  with  Avon  Dyrry  which  river  cumeth  out 
of  BinDearg.  Item  the  water  of  Strahendyrry  is  called  Dow 
Whillaig  (or  the  water  of  flies)  it  is  commonly  called  Avon 
Garera,  it  entreth  in  Connel  3  myl  above  Kildun.  Item  Loch 
Kildun  3  myl  longy  whilk  runneth  also  into  Connel.  Muybeg. 
Muig  is  the  greatest  Glen  and  branch  of  Connel,  the  water 
therof  cumeth  out  of  Loch  Bannachar  so  that  Connel  is  called 
the  water  of  Muig  unto  Strabran,  whilk  is  Connel.  Item  ther 
is  Loch  Bran  upon  the  head  of  Strathbran.  Item  Stravaich 
with  Avon  Vaich  and  Loch  Tolmuck  cuming  out  of  Mealdna- 
choich.  This  Stravaich  is  5  myl  long  it  entreth  upon  the 
northsyd  of  Connel,  twa  myl  beneth  the  water  of  Strabran. 

Item  a  myl  beneth  that  on  the  northsyd  of  Connel  is  Stra- 
Rennach,  Avon  Rennach  is  3  myl  long  falling  out  of  Loch 
Rennach.  Item  Glenavaryn  with  Avon  Ferbaryn  10  myl  long 
with  Loch  na  Whoying  3  myl  long  cuming  out  of  Ban  . 
Whoyng  it  entereth  on  the  south  syd  of  Connel,  a  myl  above 
the  cobil  whair  we  cum  ovir. 


552  STRA  FAIIROU 

Item  Lochovvsie  with  ane  yle  and  a  house  in  it,  is  a  myl  long 
and  2  myl  distant  from  Dingwell.  Item  Knock  Fermoil  a 
4SO.  great  work  and  ruynes  of  Fin-Mack-Coul,  upon  a  shoyrhil 
top,  having  a  gallant  prospect,  into  the  rich  and  fertill  valley 
of  Strafeor,  it  is  a  myl  distant  from  Dingwell.  Item  Avon 
Feor  is  3  myl  long,  and  cumeth  out  of  the  edge  of  the  Moun- 
tayne  Binwevesh.  Item  Dingwell  toun  and  castell  upon  the 
south  cheek  therof. 

STRA  FARROR 

This  is  the  draught  of  the  river  above  Lovat  &  Beaulieu 
Upon  the  bra  of  Glen  StraFarror  is  Inche  Muylt,  2  myl  thence 
Inche  Loichart,  these  ar  upon  the  syd  of  Mony-rioch. 

As  you  cum  out  of  the  south  part  of  Kintail  is  Loch 
Monery  4  myl  long,  it  hath  3  or  4  smal  lochis  falling  in  it 
called  Ged  Lochis.  Betwix  Kean-loch-Monery,  and  Stru-i  at 
the  mouth  of  Ferrar.  ar  10  myl,  it  is  betwix  Glashletyr,  and 
the  said  Keanloch  thrie  myl  of  hils  called  Tokkok  running  in 
drum  betwix  them.  Item  Lonquhart  moir  is  the  seat  upon 
Kean  Loch  Monery  Item  BinShyres  upon  the  south  syd  of 
Glasletyr.  Item  hard  by  is  the  hill  of  Karnet.  these  ar  the 
hills  of  Glas  Letyr. 

Item  upon  the  northsyd  of  Loch  Monery  half  a  myl  from 
the  same  is  Luirg  Moir,  twa  myl  be  west  towards  Loch-Ailsh 
is  Bin  Dronnaig.  Item  Skur  na  Gonnery.  Item  the  hie  hill 
of  Bhearnish  within  twa  myl  of  Luir-moir.  Item  Maul-Chail- 
lemish  a  myl  from  Sturnaig. 

Item  Kory  Finnarach  coming  from  the  said  hill  in  Loch 
Monery.  Item  3  myl  from  Inner  Lot-herd  is  Ochirro,  3  myl 
thence  is  Struy.  four  myl  above  Struy  is  Loch  Glen  Strafarrar 
with  ane  yle  and  a  hous  in  it. 

Item  Avon  Browlyn  cometh  out  of  Loch  Browlyn,  a  myl 
long  standing  hard  be  the  fut  of  Browlyn  hills,  this  water  of 
Browlyn  falleth  in  Farrar  or  Inche  Mult,  the  said  hills  of 
Browlyn  ar  8  myl  above  Struy. 

48/.  The  river  Afarig  cumeth  out  of  the  great  and  high  hill  Skor 
na  Kerrin  which  mountayne  is  a  common  marche  to  Glenelg, 
Kintail,  Afarig,  and  Glashletyr.  Sum  4  or  5  myles  northward 


ARD  MKANACH  553 

from  that  river  ryseth  the  river  Cannay  out  of  the  litle  loch 
Drommy.  Avon  Afarig  goeth  throch  Finglen  and  Glengrivy 
in  two  small  branches,  and  being  joy ned  goeth  down  to  Loch 
Afarig,  sum  4  myl  long,  the  hills  of  Afarig  and  the  forrest  of 
Afarig  on  the  south  hand,  which  lands  pertayn  to  Chesholme 
of  Straglass,  cuming  furth  of  the  Loch,  it  goeth  down  sum 
8  myles  and  taketh  in  the  river  of  Cannay,  at  the  kyrk  of 
Combyr  and  Innercanney,  then  going  furdir  sum  3  myles,  it 
taketh  in  the  river  Monar,  both  thir  rivers  on  the  northsyd, 
and  it  looseth  his  name  and  is  called  Avon  Glash,  and  the 
countrey  adjoyning  Straglass.  this  name  lasteth  to  it  from 
the  fall  of  Cannay  in  it  to  the  fall  of  Monar  at  Strowy.  fra 
that  becuming  a  great  river  it  runeth  7  myl  furdir  to  Beaulie 
whair  it  goeth  into  the  head  of  Murray  firth  and  is  called  the 
last  7  myles  Avon  Farrar  and  the  countrey  Stra  Farrar.  Mr. 
Timothie  Pont  judgeth  the  name  of  all  Murray  firth  to  cum 
from  the  name  of  this  fair  river,  being  called  be  the  Romans 
and  Ptolomie  Varar  restus.  for  this  river  shutteth  up  the 
whole  firth  from  Buquhannes,  no  less  then  fourscoir  myles 
long,  he  judgeth  also  the  name  of  Murray  itself  to  cum 
heirfrom,  and  neither  is  the  one  or  the  uthir  any  unlicklie 
conjecture. 

ARD  MEANACH. 

Logywreid  a  tonne  and  a  kirk  upon  the  river  of  Connel. 
Achachrok  a  myle  above  it,  and  nearer  to  Beaulie w.  3  myl 
thence  Ferberin  tour,  from  Achachraisk  a  myl  Bewlie.  above 
Bewlie  a  myl  Ruyendown.  a  myl  above  Bewlie  upon  the 
water  of  Ferror,  Kilteglon  hard  by  Altir.  Item  Logywreid 
the  first  seat  in  Ard  Meanach.  Item  the  ferry  ovir  Connel  48S. 
river.  Item  Kiukel  Icrach.  Kinkel  Meanach  a  tour,  and 
Kinkell  Ocreach  every  one  of  theis  thrie  a  myl  distant  from 
uthir.  Item  4  or  5  half  salt  water,  half  fresh  water  inshis 
in  the  river  Connel  with  great  cruifs  called  cory  na  gold,  and 
a  Corfhous  in  one  of  the  said  inchis.  2  myl  eastward  from 
Kinkel  Icrach  is  AltKaig  with  a  burne.  Half  a  myl  east- 
ward Kulbeky.  half  a  myl  thence  Urquhart  with  a  kirk. 
Half  a  myl  thence  Kulbeachy.  Half  a  myl  thence  Mulchaich 
with  a  wood,  half  a  myl  therfra  Fimlounbeg.  ^  myl  thence 


554  ARD  MEANACH 

Findown  moir.  }-  moir  thence  Langreid.  2  myl  thence 
Kilmartyn  with  a  kirk.  half  myl  thence  Drumwhiddin. 
J  myl  therfra  Cullecuddin  with  a  kirk.  J  myl  thence  Craig- 
hous  with  a  tour  of  4  hous  height.  2  myl  from  Kilmartyn 
southward  Brabeg.  hard  by  Bramoir  with  a  fair  wood  of 
thrie  myl  long.  A  myl  be  east  Brabeg  is  Ruysoles  beneth 
that  upon  the  Htle  loch  Portset,  here  is  a  litle  burne  falling 
in  this  Gherloch  coming  from  the  wood  of  Bramoir  it  is  2 
myl  long  and  a  half  with  dear  in  it.  a  myl  be  east  Poirt 
is  Langol,  item  Bralongol  a  myl  above  the  uthir,  the  muir 
betwix  this  and  the  Chanrie  is  called  Mulbuy.  be  east  Langol. 

2  myl  Balinach,  a  myl  from  the  sea.     from  Langol  to  Bannan 
Ocrach  it  is  3  mvl.     a  myl  thence  Bannan  Ocrach  a  myl  thence 
Bannan  Icracli.     heir  is  the  Den  mil  upon  a  burn  at  Bannan 
Icrach.    Half  a  myl  thence  Cromarty  with  a  toun  and  acastell. 

3  myl  thence  towards  Chanrie  is  Craig  upon  the  sea,     a  myl 
thence  Navetie,  a  myl  thence  with  a  good  burn  a  myl  thence 
Chanrie.     Item   the  Chanrieness.     Item  Easter  Reder  a  myl 
fra  Rosmarky.    Wester  Redery  a  myl.    Item  the  Former,    twa 
mvl  be  south  that  Killandrv.     Half  a  myle  above  the  Chanrie, 
Plotcok.     2  myl  thence  Auach  with  a  burne.     a  myle  above 
on   the  burne   Haddoch.     Half  a   myl  Arcanbuff  upon    the 
head  of  the  burne.     A  myl  thence  Suddie  moir  with  a  kirk 
on  the  burn  head,  a  myl  therfra  Suddie  Reg.     Half  a  myl 
Pitfeur  with   a  denn   mill.     Item  a  myl   from   Aach  on  the 
seasyd  Muir  ail  hous,  a  myl  thence  Casteltoun  with  the  ruvnes 
of  a  castell  called  the  castell   of  Ormond,  which  hath  gevin 
^tyles  to  sundrie  Earls  and  last  to  the  Princes  of  Scotland. 
Upon  the  westsyd  therof  cumeth  in  the  salt  Loch  of  Munlochy 
together  with  a  great  coave  foment  Bennetsfeild.     it  goeth 
up  twa  myl,  with  the  breadth  of  half  a  myle  at  the  mouth 
and  a  good   haven  for  shipps.     Half  a  myl  up  Munlochv  is 
Bennets  or  Binnage  field,     upon  the  head  of  the  bay  is  Mun- 
lochy (which  geveth  the  name  to  it,)  with  a  great  burne  a 
myl   therfra  upon   the  west   southwestsyd   is  Sligach,  a  myl 
thence  on  the  sea  is  Kilmorie  with  a  kirk.     Half  a  myl  above 
Pitlundie  Hard   by   Dreynie.     1    myl   thence  Easter  Kessak 
a  myl  thence  Wester  Kessak.     Half  a  myl  thence  Artasolie. 
\   myl   thence  Pulgormak,  1   myl  thence  Coul  Icrach  I   myl 


STRA-ARKEG— INNERNESS  555 

thence  Coul-ocrach  |  myl  thence  Balle  Knok.  J  myl  thence 
Castel  Riwy.  Item  St.  Andrews  Chappel  wher  ther  is  a  fair 
about  Lammes.  Half  a  myl  from  the  castell  is  Kirewran 
with  a  paroch  kirk  2  myl  thence  Tarradill,  with  the  old 
castell  of  Tarradill,  a  myl  thence  is  Kil  Christ  with  a  kirk. 
£  myl  thence  Achachroisk  with  manie  ancient  monuments 
betwix.  A  myl  thence  is  Beawlie.  A  myl  from  Castell-Ruy 
is  Culcowye  Castle.  J  myl  thence  is  Balnew.  2  myl  be  east 
Balnew  is  Alloinrence  or  of  the  hather.  \  myl  therfra  Alloin 
na  clach,  half  a  myl  thence  Allon-aspick.  2  myl  be  east  that 
Moritoun  a  myl  east  therfra  is  Drum  na  marg.  a  myl  east- 
ward Auchter-Anchle. 

In  Strafeor  is  Knok  Formal  Fin-Maccoul  his  seat. 

Nixt  Strafeor  is  Fern  Donel  upon  the  edge  of  the  firth. 
Glenskiach  in  Ferndonel.  AltGran  cumeth  out  of  Loch 
Glash  at  Binweves,  it  is  most  deep,  and  obscur  as  any  in  al 
Scotland.  Baknay  castel  sumtym  Mac  Conels,  betwix  Avon- 
Skiach  and  AltGran.  Item  Knokwievess.  Meal-Greish  upon 
AltGran.  Aen  river  cumeth  out  of  Loch  Moren  3  myl  long. 


SEATS  betwix  STRA-ARKEG  and  INNERNESS. 

Nixt  Irchet  in  Stra-Arkeg,  is  Druymmyn,  a  myl  be  east 
that  is  Durris  hard  on  Loch  Ness  with  a  paroch,  half  a  myl 
therfra  Balin  chappell,  a  quarter  myl  thence  Balewlax,  4  myl 
thence  Achinterga  quarter  myl  thence  Kuchaille.  quarter 
myl  thence  Shenwall.  J  thence  Coulyard  Ocrah  J  thence 
Knakfranga.  \  thence  Coulyard  Icrach  J  myl  therfra  the 
castell  of  Borland  2  myl  thence  Torbrek.  J  myl  thence 
Howm  upon  the  water  of  Ness  with  a  burn  cald  the  burn 
of  Howm.  2  myl  almost  and  be  south  that  Essich.  Hard 
by  it  Bale-Robert  upon  the  burn  of  Essich.  Item  a1  above 
Howm  is  Knoknagiall.  1  myl  thence  Coul  Dowell  within  2 
myl  to  Inverness  and  marcheth  with  Petty. 


1  The  word  'myl,'  which  occurs  in  the  MS.  from  which  Macfarlane's  tran- 
scriber copied,  is  omitted. — ED. 


556  ABIRTARFF— STRA-ARKEG 

SEATS  in  ABIRTARFF 

Upon  the  water  of  Tarf  is  Borlam  with  the  old  Castell, 
therfra  on  the  southsyd  of  Tarf,  a  quarter  myl  is  Airdoch 
I  thence  Glendo  moir.  -J-  thence  Glendo  Beg  with  AltDo,  ane 
iiglie  burne  falling  in  Loch  Ness  2  myl  be  east  Terrif  half  a 
myl  from  Glendo  Beg  is  Mourvalgan  upon  the  said  burn  of  Do 

SEATS  in  STRA-ARKEG. 

The  marche  betwix  Abirtarf  and  Stra  Arkeg  ar  the  hill  of 
Suy- Chum  man  twa  my  11  from  Glendo.  running  from  east  to 
west,  from  Glendo  a  myl  is  Lochen  Terif  with  ane  yle  at 
the  west  end  of  it.  3  myl  be  east  Glendo  is  Knock!  with  a 
Loch  of  twa  myl  long  having  a  stryp  passing  to  Lochness. 
Hard  upon  the  west  of  Knocki  is  the  hill  of  Bin-vacky  with 
sum  ew  tries  growing  among  uthir  tries  upon  it  as  some 
alledge.  A  myl  and  a  half  be  east  Knocki  is  Dalnagappull 
upon  the  east  syd  of  the  water  of  Brenaig,  five  myl  from 
Lochness,  this  Brenaig  enters  in  Faechloyn  upon  the  west  syd 
therof,  a  myl  be  east  Dalnakappul  is  Dun-Turket  upon  the 
east  bank  of  Faechloyn,  2  myl  therfra  is  Drumnymnoir.  Item 
Noerbeg  2  myl  north  from  it,  upon  Lochness.  3  myl  be  east 
it  Faechloyn  river  entreth  in  Lochness.  3  myl  be  east  Noerbeg 
is  Kinwonnowy.  3  myl  south  therfra  is  Gairtmoir  upon  the 
wester  end  of  Lochgairt.  2  myl  long,  one  myl  broad,  the 
burn  cuming  from  it,  falleth  in  Avon  Arkeg.  2  myl  be  east 
Gairtmoir  is  Megevy  upon  the  northsyd  of  Lochgairt.  2  myl 
be  east  that  Aubir-Challadyr-moir.  half  a  myl  thence  Aubir- 
Challadyr-beg,  upon  the  burn  falleth  in  Loch  Gairt.  1  myl 
Garteleck  upon  the  northsyd  of  the  said  Loch.  2  myl  thence 
upon  the  east  end  of  Loch  Gart  is  Farelin  with  Loch  Farelin. 
Item  upon  the  mouth  of  Faochloyn,  upon  the  west  syd  therof 
is  Fayir.  6  myl  be  west  Farelin.  Item  a  myl  be  east  is 
Bowleskyn  with  a  kirk  Item  a  myl  be  east  that  Balechernoch 
Beg  and  Moir  hard  upon  Lochness.  Item  Layd  Chroin  is  2 
myl  be  east  the  former,  these  thrie  ar  upon  the  westsyd  of 
Avon- Arkeg.  1  myl  thence  Bin  Chrowbin  upon  the  eastsyd 
of  Arkeg.  half  a  myl  thence  nearer  Arkeg  is  Dimicha.  half 


STRA  NAIRN— PETTYE  557 

a  myl  thence  upon  Arkeg  is  Abir  Esky.  1  myl  thence  Yrwy. 
3  myl  thence  Achinnabat  upon  the  west  end  of  Lochnashy. 
this  loch  is  2  myl  long  and  one  of  breadth  with  ane  yle  in  it. 
A  long  myl  be  east  Dunicha  is  Rowyn  with  Loch  Rowyn 
2  myl  long  and  one  broad,  with  ane  yle  and  a  house  in  it. 
this  Loch  falleth  in  Avon  Arkeg  and  Farelin  also.  Item 
north  from  Achnabat  a  myl  upon  Lochness  is  Yrchet.  Rowyn 
seat  is  upon  the  west  end  of  Loch  Rowyn. 

SEATS  in  STRA  NAIRN  in  MURRAY,  486. 

Drumming  glash  the  first  seat  in  Stra  Name  within  a  myl 
Faerlin  in  Strath  Arkeg,  2  myl  thence  is  Abir-ardour-moir. 
half  myl  therfra  Abirardour-beg.  %  myl  thence  on  the  south- 
syd  of  the  moir  of  Nairn  is  Tom-aken  or  Melmet  moat 
Melmet  is  Juniper.  A  myl  thence  Bruymoir  1  myl  thence 
Lechakely  2  myl.  thence  Far.  a  myl  thence  InnerErny  with 
the  water  of  Erny.  1  myl  thence  Tordarrach  2  myl  thence 
Lairg  Ocrah.  half  a  myl  thence  Lairg  Icrach  1  myl  thence 
Cragy  beg  J  myl  thence  Cragy  moir.  2  myl  thence  Coul 
Dawicli  1  myl  thence  Klawalg  hard  by  is  Kantra-doun.  ^  thence 
Kantra  Prish.  2  myl  thence  Budded.  2  myl  thence  Caddel 
Castell.  hard  by  Auld  Caddel,  a  quarter  therfra  Geddes.  a 
myl  thence  Geddes  Chapes.1  a  myl  thence  Kildrummy.  2  myl 
thence  Aid  Kilraog  thence  2  myl  Kilraog  Castell  A  myl 
thence  Home,  a  myl  thence  Kantra.  a  myl  thence  Kantra 
nager  1  myl  thence  Honach.  1  myl  thence  Coul  Whinnaig. 
2  myl  thence  Coul-clachy  a  myl  thence  Devy  moir.  half  myl 
thence  Devy-beg.  half  myl  Fadaelly,  half  a  myl  thence  Gask 
a  myl  thence  Drumbuy.  a  niyl  thence  Bonacken.  3  myl  thence 
Brumbeg.  a  myl  thence  Tullich  and  so  endeth  Stra  Narn. 

SEATS  in  PETTYE  in  MURRAYE 

Twa  myl  be  east  Innerness  is  Draky-beg.  half  a  myl  thence 
Draky-moir,  with  the  burn  of  Draky  betwix.  2  myl  south- 
east from  Innernes  is  Collodin  a  myl  therfra  Alt  Terly,  a 


1  The  word  *  chapes '  is  '  chapel '  in  the  original  from  whichJMacfarlane's  tran- 
scriber copied. — ED. 


558  STKA-EHIN 

myl  thence  Bony  a  myl  thence  Heglish-Colmekill.  a  myl 
thence  Balmascarr.  1  myl  thence  Daligill  of  time  house  hight. 
2  myl  thence  Koninch.  2  myl  thence  Ard-na-Seya  with  a 
kirk.  2  myl  eastward  Delny- Wester  half  a  myl  thence  Demy 
caster.  2  myl  upward  to  the  South  Bracklich  with  the  paroch 
kirk.  2  myl  thence  Crov  with  a  kirk  a  myl  therfra  westward 
Dacus,  with  a  kirk.  2  myl  be  east  that,  Cor  na-goen  or  hill  of 
bones  a  myl  thence  Urlarust  a  myl  thence  Coul  with  a  kirk 
487. 2  myl  west  fra  that  Dermet  twa  hous  high,  twa  myl  fra 
Dacus.  a  myl  thence  BaleChoweltich.  westward  half  a  myl 
Balecroy  half  a  myl  west  Cowlerny.  it  is  a  myl  from  it  to 
Cowlodin  a  myl  be  east  Coulorny  is  Skattag.  a  myl  be  ea>t 
that  is  Coul  Blair,  a  myl  be  east,  Flemingtoun.  a  myl  thence 
Loch  na  Claans  where  strangers  have  made  inonie  trenches 
and  forts. 

These  are  the  24  special  seats  in  Petty. 

Lochnaglamen  or  Clachan  is  2  myl  long. 

Pettv  is  10  myl  long  betwix  Coullodin  and  Delny  caster. 


SEATS  in  STRA-ERIN  in  MURRAY. 

Imprimis  is  Cognashy  or  the  Elfs  fyft  part.  Cogy-lewrach 
is  from  it  half  a  myl.  from  that  half1  is  Cogy  Scallan.  half 
a  myl  thence  Cogy  warn,  half  a  myl  therfra  Dal  mega  wy. 
half  a  myl  from  that  Dalomy.  therfrom  half  a  myl  i> 
Inner  Mastrachan.  with  Avon  Mastrachan  cuming  from  Glen 
Mastrachan  2  myl  long,  that  burne  entereth  upon  the  north- 
syd  of  Erin,  half  a  myl  from  it  is  Cowlachy.  a  myl  thence 
Bewnachar  Mackay.  a  mvl  therfra  Bewnacliar  Mack  Huchion. 
a  myl  thence  Stron-eyin  a  mvl  therfra  Corv-vory.  2  myl 
thence  upon  the  north  syd  of  the  water.  Moril-Beg.  2  niyl 
thence  Raeg-moir,  a  myl  thence  Raeg-Beg.  Upon  the  north 
Morilmoir.  a  myl  from  Moril  Beg.  2  myl  thence  on  the 
southsyd  of  the  river  Corybroichmoir.  half  a  myl  thenct- 
Corybroichbeg.  a  myl  thence  Pulocheg.  upon  the  northsyd 
Rowin  a  myl  from  the  former,  a  myl  therfra  Sleach  ;  a  myl 
from  that  Inner  Inn.  upon  the  water  of  Aldnakilie  running 


1  After  the  word  '  half  the  words  '  a  myl '  are  in  the  original. — ED. 


STRATH  NAVERN  559 

out  of  Glen  na  moy.  a  myl  thence  Innerbruachag  with  Alt 
Bruachag.  2  myl  thence  Frei  up  fra  the  water  north- 
ward, up  in  the  month  Muybeg  Ilan  na  Muymoir  in  Loch 
Muy  twa  myl  long,  a  myl  thence  Tulloch  Mackerry.  2  myl 
above  it  towards  the  mouth  is  Ardnaslanach  Item  Lochin  488. 
na  Clach  Skuilt  a  litle  Loch  on  the  head  of  Stra  Erin  3  myles 
above  Cogy  Shy,  and  5  myl  from  Abirchalladyr  in  Stra  Arkeg. 

STRATH  NAVERN 

This  countrey  conteyneth  in  lenth  50  myles  encluding  Etir 
a  Chewles  as  a  part  of  it.  the  breadth  of  it  is  22  myles. 

It  toucheth  at  the  East  Catnes  all  alongst,  upon  the  west  is 
Assyn  at  the  south  is  Suthirland,  and  the  great  green  sea 
upon  the  north. 

It  taketh  the  name  from  the  river  Naverne,  otherways  called 
the  water  of  Farr,  which  is  the  principall  river,  of  lentht  14 
myles  cuining  from  a  loch  cald  also  Loch  Navern,  abundant 
in  fishing  beyond  all  the  rest  of  the  countrey,  this  river  as 
all  the  rest  also  hath  his  cours  alongst  from  the  south  to 
the  north. 

The  Loch  of  Navern  is  of  lenth  5  myles,  and  cf  breadth  sum 
times  half  a  myl  sumtyms  a  quarter 

All  the  laboured  ground  lyeth  either  upon  the  seasyd  or 
upon  the  draught  of  sum  river  or  other  wherby  they  ar  excel- 
lentlie  served  both  of  fresche  water  and  sea  fishes. 

This  Province  is  devyded  as  followeth  first  Etyr  a  Chewlis 
separat  westward  from  Assyn,  nixt  to  the  east  therof  is  Dure- 
nish.  more  to  the  east  followeth  West  Moan  then  Kuntail, 
wherein  is  the  Lord  Chief  dwelling  called  Tung.  Eastward 
from  it  is  that  part  which  is  cald  Strath  Naver  therby  under- 
standing a  part  of  the  countrey  not  the  whole  the  last  is 
Hallowdail  marching  with  Catnes. 

This  countrey  is  exceedinglie  weelstored  with  fishes  both 
from  the  sea  and  its  own  rivers,  as  also  of  dear,  roe,  and  dy  vers 
kynds  of  wild  beasts,  specially  heir  never  lack  wolves,  more 
then  ar  expedient,  it  is  weel  stoored  with  wood  also,  by  trans- 
porting whereof,  manie  are  served  of  victuall  and  cornis  from  439. 
Catnes.  wherin  grow  aboundance  of  cornis,  but  indigent  of  wood. 


560  STRATH  NAVERN 

In  Durenish,  at  the  eastsyd  therof  upon  the  sea  coast,  is  a 
great  rock,  and  therein  a  great  hollow  cave.  In  the  said  cave 
a  freshe  pond  of  great  deep,  wherein  are  taken  nianie  trouts 
and  another  fische  calld  a  Cudding,  in  summer  it  is  stored 
with  grass  and  cattell  ar  fed  t heron,  but  in  winter  at  high  tydes 
it  is  filled  with  salt  water,  above  it  are  thrie  openings  throw  one 
wherof  runs  a  spring  of  water,  whilk  mantayn  still  the  said 
fresh  pond  and  fishes  therin. 

In  the  part  called  Strath  Navern  is  the  river  of  Strathie,  it 
runneth  shallow,  so  that  men  ar  able  to  wade  therin,  following 
the  salmond  cobills  and  helping  the  killing  of  the  fishe.  but 
how  soon  the  water  is  troubled  be  men  or  beasts,  the  whole 
fishing  is  spoyld  and  the  fishes  go  away  for  that  tyme 

Strath  Naverne  at  the  west  is  devyded  from  Assyne  be  ane 
inlet  of  the  sea,  and  a  small  river  at  the  head  therof.  this  bay 
is  called  Chewlis-cung,  having  divers  wodis  Hands  in  it,  the 
strangers  and  utheris  who  cum  often  to  fish  for  herring,  do 
call  it  Glendow. 

Ther  are  manie  small  ylands  alongst  the  coast,  and  in  thois 
bayis  which  the  sea  maketh,  which  are  inhabited  partlie  be 
the  countrie  people,  partlie  be  strangers  who  ar  drawn  thither 
be  the  commoditie  of  fishing  wherof  great  quantitie  is  taken 
and  transported. 

Betwix  Farr  and  Mowadill  which  marcheth  with  the  bounds 
of  BraChatt  and  Loch  Synn  it  is  24  long  myles. 

Item  betwix  William  Mackyes  hous  of  Balnakile  and 
Sandwait  seat  at  Keanloch-gareron  in  Edera  Chewlis  it  is 
8  myl. 

Item  betwix  Lochgareron  and  Luffbrd  7  myl. 

Item  betwix  Lufford  and  Skaury  moir  4  myl. 

Loch  Meady  is  4  myl.  long.  4  myl  betwixt  Strathy  and 
Strathy  head  called  Row  Racha. 

Betwix  Armidale  and  Strathy  is  3  myl.  betwix  Strathy  and 
Hallowdaill  ar  3  myl. 

Strathy  river  is  16  myl.  long.  Hallowdaill  river  is  17  myl 
long 

Armidale  river  is  7  myl  long. 

It  is  3  myl  from  Mowadyl  to  the  head  of  Navern,  flowing 
from  Dvrry-Chatt. 


STRATH  NAVEHN  561 

Loch  Navern  5  myl  long.  Loch  Kuntail  5  myl  loner.  Loch 
Howp  7  myl  long. 

Strathy.  Port  Skerry— 3  myl.  Far.  Strathy— 8  m  Far 
Tung  8  m 

Port  Skerry.  Rae.  4  m.     Ferso.  Tung— 32  m: 

All  thois  rivers  wherewith  the  countrey  is  watered,  ar 
exceedinglie  stored  with  fishes  both  of  the  sea  and  fresch 
water  so  that  is  the  greatest  and  most  marchan table  com- 
moditie  of  the  whole  countrey.  great  plentie  of  hyds  ar 
carried  from  it  also,  both  of  cattell  and  of  wild  beasts  specially 
deer 

The  Bey  and  river  of  Lasfoord  in  Ederachewlis  is  of  lenth 
— 4  myl.  the  river  of  Durenish  is  8  myl  long,  cuming  out  of 
Loch  Dinart,  the  said  loch  is  of  a  myl  of  lenth,  and  a  quarter 
myl  broad.  The  river  of  Hop  in  west  Moan,  of  lenth  thrie 
quarters  of  a  myl,  cums  from  Loch  Hop  four  myl  long,  and  a 
quarter  broad.  The  river  of  Kintall  or  Kuntal,  of  thrie  myl 
of  lenth  coming  from  Loch  Wlladoil  of  a  myl  long.  The  river 
of  Torisdail  six  myles  of  lenth. 

At  the  eastsyd  of  Edera  chewlis,  and  at  the  westsyd  of 
Durenish,  betwix  them  is  a  small  narrow  headland  shooting 
far  out  in  the  sea.  dangerous  for  seamen  called  Pharo  head 
and  heir  the  maynland  of  Scotland  beginneth  to  fall  to  the 
westward  and  south  befor  that,  still  tending  and  looking  to 
the  north 

Mem.  From  Faro  head  to  Chewles  cung  and  Assyn,  the 
coast  of  the  maynland  of  Scotland  crooks  and  bendeth  south 
southwest. 

South  from  Stra  Naverne,  in  the  hight  of  the  Brae  of  491. 
Suthirland  called  Bra  Chatt  is  a  loch  called  Loch  Shyn,  sixteen 
myles  of  lenth  and  of  a  small  breadth,  the  river  coming  therfra 
is  onlie  thrie  myles  of  lenth,  and  falleth  in  Charroun  on  the 
northsyd  therof.  a  litle  above  Inner  Charron,  the  salmon  killed 
in  this  Loch  ar  the  greatest  and  fay  rest  of  all  Scotland  and 
none  may  compair  with  them  for  quantitie. 

The  lenth  of  all  Strath  Naverne,  is  from  Chewlis  Hung,  (so 
named  from  Hung  a  Noble  Dane,)  at  Assyne  to  Drum  na 
Hallowdale  in  the  parochin  of  Rae  in  Cathnes  50  myles.  (sayth 
Th.  Paip  [sic])  which  is  not  far  by.  and  22  myl  the  greatest 

VOL.  II.  2  N 


562  GLENLYON 

breadth  from  Farr  to  Mowadill,  Avon  na  Heglise  and  Loch 
Meaty  and  Loch  Glastiloch,  which  is  the  headspring  of  the 
river,  marching  with  Bra  Chatt,  at  Avon  Teriff  falling  in 
LochSynn  in  Sutherland,  but  groweth  ay  narrower  as  it 
approacheth  to  Chewles-cung  at  Assyne. 

GLENLYON. 

first  the  northsyd  of  the  northsyd  of  the  river  Lyon. 

The  burn  of  Innermuick  2  myl  long  cum  out  of  Glenmuick. 

Kean-na-knock  is  the  uppermost  of  the  eastsyd  of  Glen- 
Lyon. 

4  myle  thence  Ghealdey 

Megerny  is  a  myl  thence,  a  tour  with  a  small  burn,  it  is 
Glenlyons  dwelling. 

3  myl  thence  Inner  Muick. 

3  myl  thence  Brakky  with  alt  Brakky  2  myl  long. 

half  myl  thence  Kreigeemy,  hard  by  Slatich,  then  1  myl  to 
Ruskick. 

half  myl  thence  InnerVar  with  a  burn  3  myl  long. 

Hard  by  is  CairnBain  somtime  the  principal  dwelling  of 
Glenlyon 

A  myl  thence  Sestel  with  a  small  burn. 

On  the  southsyd. 

first  is  Aldagob.  3  myl  long,  just  agains  Sestell.  it  falleth 
out  of  Bennen,  and  Bhellach-nacht  a  Cory  upon  the  north  syd 
of  Bin  Lawers. 
499.      2  myl  thence  is  Dirigams. 

a  myl  thence  Inneringneon  with  a  burn  4  myl  long  falling 
from  Corybuy  out  of  Binlawers. 

A  myl  thence  Rorow  with  a  burn,  whilk  fals  from  Larig 
Lochen  at  the  head  of  Loch  Tay  and  is  4  myl  long. 

Hard  by  Rorow  is  Balemouling. 

Hard  upon  the  west  of  the  former  burn  is  Balnahannord. 

Hard  by  Balemeanach  with  a  burn  4  myl  long  cumming  out 
of  ssual  and  Corynaherroshet,  falling  as  the  former 

from  the  month  betwix  that  and  Killyn. 

A  myl  thence  Creig  Elich. 


GLEN-LYON  563 

A  myl  thence  Balna-heglis  with  the  kirk  of  Brennow 

Hard  by  is  Kendrochart,  hard  upon  Balemoulin  with  a  burn 
4  myl  long  falling  out  of  Kaillach  Rannach,  betwix  Glenlyon 
and  Glenlochy  in  Braid  Albane. 

Half  a  myl  thence  Dalrioch  moir.  2  myl  from  the  former 
with  a  small  burn. 

Glenlyon  is  about  7  myl  broad,  the  broadest  part  is  betwix 
the  kirk  of  Brennow  on  the  north  and  the  kirk  of  Killyn  on 
the  south. 

Item  a  firr  wood  betwix  Dalmoir  and  Balemoulyn  called 
Leakgaur.  it  is  3  myl  long  and  a  myl  broad. 

Item  Kreach  na  Keir,  a  wood  of  firr,  2  myl  long,  and  as 
much  broad  with  a  great  glen,  and  a  burn  4  myl  long  called 
Connait  cuming  out  of  Loch  Daw  2  myl  long  and  Lochghyr 
1  myl  long,  the  burn  betwix  thir  2  lochs  being  2  myl  long 
Tonaig-Etera-loch. 

Item  Glendaw  2  myl  long  with  a  burn  falling  in  Lochdaw. 

Avon  Daw  cumis  out  of  Mealbuy  betwix  Rennach  and  Bra 
glen  lyon. 

Item  upon  the  northsyd  of  Glenlyon,  Grinen-dair-dyr,  a  hie 
steep  hill. 


CORYES  and  SHEELS  in  GLEN-LYON. 

The  westmost  part  of  all  Glenlyon  3  m.  be  west  Carnedruym 
is  the  marche  betwix  Glenlyon,  and  the  countrey  of  Glen- 
Urquhay  first  thair  is  Lhon  na  choill,  a  myl  be  est  that  Tom- 
Chewrin  a  sheel.  A  myl  be  west  Lochlyon  is  Lowbin  a  sheel.  493. 

Item  Lochlyon  3  myl  long,  the  water  of  Lochlyon  is  cald 
Finnalairbeg.  upon  the  north  of  Cory-cheech.  Nixt  within  a 
myl  is  Binteaskernich  upon  the  eastsyd  of  Corysheech. 

It  is  but  a  myl  betwix  the  Carne-Druym  and  the  head  of 
Loch  Lyon. 

Item  upon  the  northsyd  of  Bra-Lyon,  betwix  it  and  Loch 
Rennach  the  first  is  Glencaillich  3  m  long  falling  in  Lyon, 
the  water  falling  throw  this  Glen  is  called  Mearan. 

2  myl  more  east  is  Cory-hewnan  with  a  burn  2  myl  long 
running  throch  it  called  Quollow-eeran. 


564  BRAID  ALLABAN 

A  myl  thence  is  Estinanoion,  a  glen  and  a  sheel  cuming 
out  of  Cory  na  naion  upon  the  north  syd  of  Loch  lyon. 

Leac-vannah  a  sheel,  a  very  fair  pruce  of  2  myl  long,  the  sheel 
therof  is  called  Bat  cherk.  3  m  thence  Innermearan  a  sheel. 

A  myl  more  eastward  Cory-Chrevy  and  hard  by  Pubblefern. 

A  myl  thence  Coulsowble  with  a  burn  2  myl  long,  falling 
out  of  a  small  Loch  called  Lochen  Loisken.  all  thir  on  the 
north  of  Glenlyon. 

Upon  the  southsyd  of  Lyon  within  2  myl  of  Finnalan  beg  is 
Druymbe  with  a  burn  2  myl  long,  cumming  out  of  Bhellach 
na  ketaig  marching  with  Glen  Lochay. 

A  myl  thence  Cashill  na  clack  moir.  1  myl  therfra  Dal- 
chierklick  and  a  myl  therfra  is  Coryloinshick  with  Birk  wood, 
with  Craigvaddy  a  stay  craig  hard  by  it  upon  the  east  therof. 

Be  east  that,  hard  by  Chreigen,  Tullivern  verie  high  hills. 

Item  Bhellach  na  hetaig  with  Lairg  na  Lhowin  hard  on  the 
south  syd  therof  marchis  with  Glendochart. 

Glenwyir  upon  the  north  of  Bin  Lawer 

Finglen  marchis  with  the  east  syd  of  BinLawer 

Cory-reochy  marchis  with  the  east  syd  of  Finnalan 

Item  upon  the  north  of  Binlawer  is  Cory-Cloich,  with  a 
small  round  Loch  on  the  top  of  Lawer. 

Item  upon  the  southwestsyd  of  Binlawer  in  Broad-Albane- 
syd  is  Cory-muckie  Half  a  myl  more  is  More-inch. 

Cory-verawalt  is  be  east  the  former  hard  by  Cory-chary. 

Be  east  that,  3  myl.  above  the  place  of  Lawers  is  Lochnagatt 
most  difficill  for  hie  and  steep  rocks. 

the  burn  of  Lawers  cums  out  of  L.  nagat  falling  be  the  east 
syd  of  the  place  of  Lawers. 

Of  BRAID  ALLABAN 

From  Stron  Combre  to  the  head  of  Loch  Tay  14  myl. 

From  the  Lochhead  just  east  and  west  to  Strafillan  12  myl, 
but  in  June  1644  the  Laird  of  Glenurquha  counted  it  me  but 
9  viz.  6  to  Loch  Dochar  and  3  to  Strafillan 

From  Strafillan  just  west  4  myl  to  Aryween,  a  seat  in  Bra 
Glenurquha,  and  the  marche  betwix  Glenurchay  and  Braid 
Albin.  Braid  Albyn  is  30  myl  long  from  east  to  west,  and 


LOCH  ERIN  565 


ft  ,  n  an        ang-e  in 

Bawhidder  is  10  myl  from  south  to  north 

the^enn'of  e'   UP°"  *"  *****  ^  ^'"^  Bl'aid  Albyn  and 


Mo^teith  r°W~gartnay     eWX  Ba1uhidder  aild   Kilmahug  in 
Item  Stra-gartnay. 

Betwix  Came  Druyme  and  Badenoch  is  the  month  called 
Drum-Allabyn. 

Item  the  water  falling  in  Loch  Dochart  is  10  myl  Ion* 
to  the  brae  of  Glen-urquhay.  this  waters  is  at  the  bra  o&f 

len-Urquhay,  it  is  4  myl  southwest  ward  therfra  to  the  brae 
of  Glenfallach,  5  myl  long  or  it  fall  in  Lochrim 

Item  Glenstree  5  myl  long  with  a  seat  called  Chasell  in  it. 
ther  is  also  in  it  Stron-Miallachan. 

Item  Glenno  3  myl  betwix  it  and  Glenstree.  Glenno  burn 
falls  in  Loch  Glen-etif. 

Glen  Kendglass  4  myl  long. 

PLACES  about  the  head  of  LOCH  ERIN  4 

Na  Keandmoir  with  a  house  on  it. 

^  It  is  3  myl  betwix  Kean  Locherin  and  Kean  Loch  Tay,  but 
Glenurchy  reconed  it  to  me  to  be  9.  others  call  it  7.  that 
ground  is  called  Lairg-Kille. 

Ther  is  also  Glen  Ogle  with  Ogle  burne  a  myl  from  it  is 
Glen  Keandrum,  with  the  water  of  Glenkeandrum  3  myl  long 
falling  in  Loch  Erin. 

3  myl  hence  Larig  Eyrenach  3  myl  long. 
Distance  betwix  Loch  Erin  and  Glendochart  is  5  myl  of 
month  2  myl  thence  is  Glencrow,  with  a  water  3  myl  long.  2 
myl  thence  Glen  Monochill  and  4  myl  thence  is  Loch  Seul  2 
myl  long  with  ane  Yle  in  it.  Item  a  quarter  myl  thence  is 
Loch  Leyn.  Item  Glen  Loch  Larig  4  myl  long  marching 
almost  to  Ylen  Loch  Dochart,  at  the  head  of  thir  is  the 
hill  Cory-Arban.  hard  by  Cory  Owley  with  many  deer  and 
rae.  Nixt  that  is  Bin-moirs  whose  mouth  and  skirts  dis- 
tinguisheth  Glendochart  from  the  head  of  Forth  and  Brae- 
Glen-Falacht. 


566  STRA  GARTNAY 

STRA  GARTNAY. 

The  seat  of  Bochassill  is  upon  the  southsyd  of  the  brigend 
of  the  kirk  of  Kilmahugg.  a  myle  thence  is  Coulin-teugle. 

Ylen  Bennachar  in  the  east  end  of  L.  Bennachar. 

Teth  river  cums  out  of  L.  Bennachar  at  the  east  end,  a 
myl  thence  still  upon  the  northsyd  of  Loch  Bennachar 
is  BlairGarry,  a  myl  thence  Drippans,  at  the  skirt  of 
Binlydy. 

2  myl  thence  Affrance,  a  myl  thence  Keandrochart,  or  brig 
head  upon  the  water  of  Finglass. 

Glenfinglas  is  6  myl  long  with  a  water  cald  Mony-nach. 
It  hath  a  wood  on  the  southsyd  of  Glenfinglas  called  Kaille 
Newyrr. 

Item  upon  the  southsyd  of  the  glen  is  Groddich. 
496-      This  Glenfinglas  perteyneth  to  the  Lordschip  of  Doun,  and 
is  good  forrest  and  wood  for  hunting. 

3  myl  from  the  head  of  L  Bennachar,  is  Loch  Ardkean- 
knoken  twa  myl  long,  perteyning  to  the  Lard  Glenurquhay. 

Troislichen  3  m.  thence  upon  the  water  of  Dowgaray,  at  the 
head  of  Loch  Ketterny. 

This  water  Dowgarry  is  a  myl  long  betwix  L.  Ardkean- 
knoken  and  L.  Ketterny. 

Item  Port  Ylen  Moloch  is  3  myl  from  L.  Ardkeanknoken 
Yland  Moloch  in  the  east  end  of  L.  Ketterlin,  and  a  myl 
from  it  Brennachaylly,  a  myl  therfra  Lettyr.  Hard  by  is 
Edderalaekach  with  a  good  burn,  this  burn  fals  in  the  mids 
of  L  Ketterin,  2  myl  thence  Ard  mak  moynen.  2  myl  thence 
Kayllychrie,  a  myl  thence  Glengyle  seat  with  the  water  of 
Glengyle. 

The  uppermost  of  Strath  Gartnay  is  Clachan  Wraid.  Loch 
Ketterin  reacheth  above  it  2  myl  and  moir,  the  uppermost 
yle  in  it,  on  the  northsyd  and  west  end  is  Yland  Vernaik  or 
Mernock  and  a  myl  from  the  former  on  the  southsyd  is  Yland 
Verraik. 

Nixt  to  Glengyl  upon  the  southsyd  in  Monteeth  is 
Stron  Lochen  3  myl  thence  Caldnairt  3  myl  thence  Glash 
Chailly  with  the  great  wood  of  Kaillymore  betwix  them. 

Half  a  myl  from  Glash-chailly  and  be  east  is  Krantullich 


STRA  GARTNAY  567 

hard  be  east  it  is  Corynanourisken   and  a  my]    thence  Cory 
Kail  den  or  hasil  Cory. 

Twa  myl  therfra  is  Caillach  na  ba  a  myl  upon  the  southeast 
of  Loch  Ketterin. 

Item  the  great  hill  and  month  upon  the  west  southwest  is 
cald  Bin-Manniff. 

Half  a  myl  from  Murlagan  is  Achrai,  and  3  myl  therfra 
Keandrochart  upon  the  southeast  end  of  Ardkeanknoken  Loch 

Half  a  myl  be  south  that,  from  the  watersyd  is  Aldanabreik 
a  trout  burn,  hard  by  is  Cachray.  ane  myl  therfra  Doun  Bin 
Item  Trombuy  is  upon  the  southsyd  of  L.  Dronky  being  a 
myl  long. 

This  loch  Dronky  hath  a  burn  cald  Essgrowach  or  ugly 
Lynn  falling  in  it,  this  burn  is  2  myl  long,  and  cumeth  out 
of  Creig  mad,  a  very  craggish  hill,  a  myl  from  Trombuy  is 
Bartnasale  upon  L.  Dronky.  this  upon  the  north  back  of  Creig- 
moir  foment  Inche  Mahome. 

A  myl  thence  upon  L.  Bennachar  is  Tom  beck,  half  a  myl 
thence  Tomrye,  half  a  myl  thence  Kowilrigreen,  a  myl  thence 
Dowletyr,  both  thir  ar  Glenurchayis,  a  myl  thence  Dowletyr- 
ille.  Item  Garvie  Choyne  a  half  m.  from  the  former  Than 
further  down  is  Kilmahugg. 

Betwix  Killmahug,  and  Inch  Mahum  is  the  moor  cald  Lairg 
na  Ballach. 

Item  the  seat  of  Glenny  above  nixt  Monduy,  it  is  a  myl 
north  from  the  Loch  Inch  Mahome,  to  the  west  a  quarter. 

Item  nixt  the  mill,  a  quarter  myl  above  the  west  end  of  the 
Loch  is  Balchreigan  hard  by  the  said  mill. 

Mony  Wraky  lyeth  betwix  Balchreigan  and  Gleny.  a  myl 
thence  Achachyl.  half  a  myl  thence  Ard  nackie.  The  mil 
standeth  on  the  southsyd  of  the  burn  of  Inchmahume. 

Item  the  Dounen  is  betwix  Adischyll  and  Forth  and  is  hard 
on  Forth  southwest  from  Achachyll 

Item  the  tour  of  Kalendar  4  house  high.  Item  upon  the 
uthir  syd  of  Garvie  visk  is  the  Kirk  of  Leny.  3  myl  from 
Kalendar  is  Lannerik.  Upon  the  northsyd  of  Garvevisk 
is  Cammey  moir  a  good  home  1  myl  from  Lenrik  is  Torry 
upon  the  southsyd  2  myl  thence:  Daldauran  2  myl  thence 
at  the  south  end  of  the  wood  of  Doun  of  Monteeth 


568  CHAUKOUN— OKELL 

The     DRAUGHT     of     CHARROUN     RIVER     and 
OKELL  RIVER 

Charroun  falleth  out  of  the  great  hill  of  Scornivar  the 
hiest  be  far  of  all  the  bordering  mountayns.  for  the  name 
importeth  so  much  as  a  top  above  all  hills,  it  ryseth  on 
the  southsyd  therof  sum  2  or  3  myl  from  the  mayn  top. 
It  is  reckoned  from  that  top  to  the  toun  of  Tayn  in  Ros 
— 301 

It  hath  manie  branches  that  fal  in  on  both  syds. 
first  Altlenaslattoch  on  the  northsyd,  there  is  on  that  syd  a 
2  beneth  Lochen  Stronannach  with  a  burn  fra  it  then 
Alt  very  Gewiss.  and  dyvers  more  before  you  cum  to  the  mouth 
of  Aynick  a  good  river  on  that  same  syd.  which  hath  seats  and 
towns  upon  it  Lichnach,  Altna  Gurir  and  Achnagullan  3  myl 
above  the  mouth  therof  beneth  it  is  Esbulg  and  Rinastrone  at 
the  mouth  of  it. 

The  draught  of  Charroun  runs  wonder  straight  fra  W.N.W. 
to  E.S.E.  and  the  mouth  bendeth  norderly  to  the  ferry. 

Seats  on  it  ar  Achnagowen  and  Carnowaig,  Latyr,  Meuloch 
Badechaille  Scuddachall  9  myl  and  a  half  above  Innercharroun 
then  followeth  Langol  ocra  a  myl  and  a  half  from  Scuddachal 
then  is  Langol  meanoch  half  myl.  then  fra  it  Langol  Icra  half 
myl.  all  on  the  northsyd. 

Above  them  on  the  northsyd  and  half  a  myl  above  mouth 
of  Ainick  is  Amad  Hegls  and  a  quarter  above  it  Amad  Tua. 
Inner  Charroun  is  at  the  mouth  on  the  westsyd. 
Betwix  Inner  Charroun  and  the  lowest  Langol  is  Knokin- 
Arrow  and  then  Siol. 

On  the  southsyd  of  the  river  Charron  is  Layd  Clamoig 
above  it  Dounielareme.  then  Guir  or  Grunords  icra  and 
Ocra.  a  long  myl  above  them  fals  in  Alt  Caillevie.  Seats 
on  the  river  following  up  ar  Kreigsfraven,  Mairloch,  Laid- 
Be  Meal  na  Borin.  Loub  Varar.  Meal  nin-rinag.  Diroch 
Loub  Choyl.  Glashlayg  All  the  draught  above  Caile-vie 
is  called  the  forest  of  friewater,  and  that  part  of  the  river 

1  The  word  *  myl,'  which  is  in  the  original,  is  here  omitted. — ED. 

2  The  word  '  loche '  is  difficult  to  read  in  the  original,  and  has  been  left  out 
by  Macfarlane's  transcriber. — ED. 


CHABBOUN— OKELL  569 

hath    first   from    the   springs  down   six   myl   Glenbeg,  then  #M. 
Glenmoir. 

Now  to  go  from  Innercharroun  west  up  the  ferry,  the  way  to 
Stra  Okell  is  Carbsdaill  on  the  ferry  syd,  a  long  myl  string 
way  but  the  bending  of  the  ferry  maketh  the  jorney  a  great 
deall  longer.  Above  Carbsdaill  is  Tyninour  2  myl,  then  is  above 
it  Achnagart  2  myl.  nixt  is  Kilmachalmuy  a  kirk  1  myl  and 
ane  half.  Above  it  1  quarter  is  Achinahowach,  and  ane 
quarter  above  it  Ochtow,  heir  the  sea  endeth  aud  here  is  the 
mouth  of  Okel. 

It  is  betwix  Ochtow  and  Carbsdaill  7  myl  down  the  Ferry 
Seitt 

The  way  alongs  the  Ferry  syd  fra  Innercharroun  to  Tayn  is 
thus  Kincarn  kirk  a  myl.  Faern  Ocra  2  myl  Faern  Meanach 
half  myl  Faern  Icra  1  myl  (Alt  Faern  cum  in  betwix  them 
6  myl  long.)  Dun-Alliskaeg  half  myl  fra  the  former,  therfra 
Dounie  vastra  2  myl.  Ardmore  1  myl.  Dallash  bog  from  it 
1  quarter  myl.  thairfra  is  Dallash  mair  1  quarter  myl. 
therfra  to  Balinich  1  quarter  myl.  followeth  Edderdin  with  a 
kirk  and  a  burn  half  myl  fra  it.  Nixt  is  Cammey  currie  ovir  1 
quarter  myl  and  Cammey  currie  nether  1  quarter  myl.  fra  it 
standeth  Tarlagr  1  quarter  myl.  beneth  it  is  Morinshin  half  a 
myl  down,  and  last  is  Tayn  a  myl  fra  the  last. 

So  from  Innercharroun  to  Tayn  is  11  myl  and  a  half  Stra 
Okel  cumeth  no  furdir  doun  then  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Okel.  following  up  the  river,  nixt  above  Ochtow,  on  the 
southsyd  first  is  Brae  a  myl  above  Ochtow.  Above  it  a  myl  is 
Amad.  2  myl  above  it  is  Keurny.  about  that  half  a  myl  is 
Cragy 

Upon  the  northsyd,  six  myl  about1  the  mouth  is  Keanloch 
Ailsh.  beneth  it  a  myl  and  a  half  is  Turnaig  Ocr.  beneth  it 
half  a  myl  Turnaig  icr  Tua  myl  beneth  it,  is  Tuymtintervach 
and  followeth  a  quarter  myl  therfra  Knoken  with  a  kirk, 
beneth  that  a  myl  and  a  half  is  the  mouth  of  Chassil  river 
which  devydeth  Ros  from  Sutherland. 

Upon  the  Sutherland 2  at  the  mouth  of  Innerchassill,  and  on  500. 


1  Instead  of  '  about '  the  original  has  '  above.'— ED. 

*  The  word  <  syd  '  follows  '  Sutherland  '  in  the  original.— ED. 


570  RENNOCH 

the  Ross  syd  therof  up  that  river  2  myl  is  Glen  Chassil  a  seat, 
and  1  quarter  myl  above  it  upon  that  same  syd  Glenmuick  a 
seat. 


Of    RENNOCH,    CORYES,    BUKXS    LOCUS    and    SHEELS 
therin. 

Loch  Dormist  a  litle  falling  in  Tymmell. 

Loch  Reiinoch  7  common  myles  long  from  east  to  west. 

Loch  Eyracht  12  myl  long.  Avon  Eyrachty  3  myl  long 
falling  out  of  the  said  Loch  in  Loch  Rennach  at  the  west 
therof  but  enclining  to  north. 

L.  Barlagan  half  a  myl  long  betwix  Bra  Glenurquhay 
Monie  na  Crowach  in  Rennach  and  Braglen-Etyf. 

Haifa  myl  be  east  that  is  Loch  Eiach,  out  of  it  runs  the 
river  Gawir  the  Loch  half  a  myl  long. 

Loch  Luydan  2  myl  long,  1  myl.  from  the  former. 

Loch  Ewyr  is  hard  by. 

Lochen  na  dye  1  myl  thence  a  small  loch. 

Loch  Ba  having  the  great  hill  of  Crowach  Luydan  above  it. 

Craignachronan  a  hill  marching  Rennach  and  Glenurquhay. 

five  myl  be  east  is  Achachalladyr  with  the  Loch  cald  Lochen 
Duymaig. 

Loch  Tolle  2  myl  long,  at  Bra  Glenurchay  falling  in  the 
Rennach. 

Glenkoymbre  3  m.  long,  on  the  south  of  Loch  Rennach,  the 
burn  goeth  to  the  loch  at  Innerchoymbre. 

Fevady  a  sheel,  a  myl  above  Innerchoymbrie. 

East  from  that  and  hard  upon  it  is  Knokayvin. 

Hard  by  is  Stronferne  with  Alt  Innering-gauran 

2  myl  be  east  that  is  Glenkleynie  2  myl  long. 

2  myl  be  east  Glencars  2  myl  long. 

Glensassen  1  myl  from  the  former  and  in  the  mouth  therof 
Corynaluisken. 

Glenmoir  betwix  Gart  and  the  syd  of  Suy  Challen. 
Coryna  Sowy  in  the  head  of  Glenmoir. 

501.      Above  Gart  the  wood  Kylruy.  Item  Doungaillies  a  hie  hill. 
Loch  Kinvardochy  half  a  myl  long. 

3  myl  be  east  it  is  Loch  Langeluy  half  a  myl  long 


STORMONTH  571 

half  myl  thence  Loch  Glash  being  2  myl  from  the  Weem  it 
falls  in  the  burn  of  Cluny. 

3  myl  be  east  the  former  Loch  is  Loch  Yercullick  1  myl 
long  it  falleth  in  the  burn  of  Dercully  foment  Harntullich.  * 

L.  Largluy  falls  in  Timmell.  all  the  rest  of  the  forsaids 
Lochs  fall  in  Aid  Chailteny. 

L.  Nagat  fals  in  Tirnmel,  1  myl  benorth  Derculy. 


STORMONTH  fra  Mr.  D.  DRUMMONDS  PAPERS 

Stormonth  is  devyded  be  the  river  of  Tay  in  two  parts  viz. 
West  and  East  Stormonths. 

West  Stormonth  hath  in  lenth  10  myls  in  breadth  9  myles. 

West  Stormonth  hath  5  paroch  kirks  viz.  Logy- Almond, 
Litle  Dunkeld,  Ochtyr  Gevyn.  Loncartie  and  Kinclevin.  and 
it  is  bordered  on  the  west  with  the  mountaynes  which  go  to 
Stra  brane  and  with  a  part  of  Athoil.  Upon  the  south  it  is 
bordered  with  the  river  Tay  and  Almond.  Whilk  devyd  it 
fra  Angus  and  from  the  Lordship  of  Methven.  Upon  the  north 
and  East  it  is  circuit  with  the  said  river. 

Ancient  dwellings  therein  ar  Kinclevin  of  old  ane  dwelling 
of  the  Kings,  standing  upon  the  eastsyd  of  Stormonth  at  the 
meeting  of  Tay  and  Yla.  followeth  Logy  Almonth  in  the 
west  parts  therof  standing  upon  Almond  river  perteyning  to 
the  Earls  of  Erroll,  high  Constabil  of  Scotland,  whilk  office 
with  thir  lands  and  manie  uthir  lands  he  obtayned  at  the 
battel  of  Loncartie.  Straord  a  hous  perteyning  to  the 
Crichtoun.  Arne  Tully  perteyning  to  the  Stewarts  of  Arne 
Tullie.  Murthlie  now  perteyning  to  the  Stewarts  of  Gardin 
Tully.  Ochtergevyn  perteyneth  to  the  Simame  Ireland  gevin  509. 
to  Servin  of  Ireland  in  Wallace  his  tyme  the  Lard  of  Lon- 
cartie called  Petscottie  of  smal  rent. 

Inch l  and  Mukersie  perteyning  to  the  Names,  Innernytie 
sumtym  the  Crichtouns  land  now  to  Hay  late  Chanceler  of 
Scotland. 


1  The  word  is  illegible  in  the  original,  and  has  been  left  out  by  Macfarlane's 
transcriber.  — E  n. 


572  STORMONTH 

Ther  wer  another  great  victorie  had  agains  the  Danis  in 
Stormonth,  besyd  Almonth  anent  the  old  citie  Bertha. 

East  Stormonth  hath  10  myles  of  lenth  and  7  of  broadth. 
On  the  West  it  joyneth  with  Dunkeld  a  Bishops  seat,  and 
with  Athoil.  Upon  the  north  with  river  of  Ardill  whil  the 
said  river  fal  in  Yla,  upon  the  south  and  east  with  the  river 
Yla.  It  hath  6  paroch  kirks  viz.  Kepet,  Lethyndie,  Cluny, 
Lundief  Blair,  Banochy.  It  hath  9  Lochis  of  fresch  water. 
All  weall  stoared  with  varietie  of  fisches,  viz.  thrie  lochis  of 
Carynies,  the  loch  of  Cluny  which  hath  ane  Hand  and  a  good 
dwelling  therin  perteyning  to  the  Lard  of  Lethindie,  Loch 
of  Kynloch,  the  Roy  loch  perteyning  to  the  Lard  of  Ardblair. 
the  Whyt  Loch,  the  twa  lochis  of  Blair  in  Goray. 

The  principall  dwellings  ar  Inchtuthill  perteyning  now  to 
Ogilvie  of  Inche  Martyne.  Lethindie  perteyning  to  the 
Harings  with  Glascluny  ane  uthir  dwelling  of  his  also.  Mon- 
clour  cald  Merser.  Gormock  cald  Buttir.  Drumlochy  cald 
Chalmer.  Ardblair  cald  Blair.  Arne-Tullie  cald  Stuart, 
whair  ar  the  ruynes  of  a  hunting  hall  of  King  Robert  the 
first  of  the  Stuarts.  Gourdy  cald  Hoy.  Newtoun  of  Blair 
cald  Drummond.  Litle  Bar  cald  Hering.  Wester  and 
Midle  Gormocks  cald  Hering.  Ovir  and  Nethir  Fornochts 
cald  Hering 

Both  thir  Stormonths  ar  within  the  Sherifdome  of  Perth 
thair  thrids  are  of  the  Abbacy  of  Scone  and  provestrie  of 
Methven 

Upon  the  northsyd,  both  the  Stormonths  ar  bordered  with 

503.  the  wateris  of  Ardill  and  Yla,  whilk  devydeth  them  on  the  north 

from  the  forrest  of  Elit  and  on  the  East  and  south  fra  Angus. 

Both  the  Stormonths  have  pleasant  fields  for  halking  and 
hunting,  they  ar  also  fertill  of  all  sorts  of  cornis,  and  bestiall 
in  abundance  but  the  East  Stormonth  is  the  better  of  the  twa, 
having  aboundance  of  salmond  fisching  as  namelie  at  a  place 
cald  the  Keth,  and  at  Campsy. 


BADENOCH. 

This  is  wryten  out  of  Mr.  Timothies  Papers  and  in  it  thur 
manie  things  false. 


BADENOCH  573 

The  lenth  of  this  province  is  24  myles,  following  the 
draught  of  Spey.  lying  almost  west  south  west,  and  East  Nord 
East.  It  hath  waist  and  hillie  ground  round  about  upon  al 
syds  except  StrathSpey,  which  is  nixt  it,  down  the  river,  it 
goeth  southward  to  Atholl,  at  the  mountayn  of  Minegeg.  and 
to  Loch  Spidell.  Eastward  the  mountayns  of  Scairsoch'devyd 
it  from  Brae  Marr.  southwestward  is  Lochabyr  with  mountayns 
betwix  and  northward  is  Stra  Herin  and  Abirtarf.  and  the 
hight  of  Killyne  in  Strath  Harkeg. 

At  the  lower  end  of  it  Crage-alaachie  or  the  devyding 
Crag  is  24  myl  fra  Inverness,  the  head  of  Glen  Toulmen  is 
18  myl  fra  Innerness. 

The  first  seat  in  Badenoch  and  nearest  Innerness  is  Dale- 
chaggin,  upon  a  branche  of  Tulmen  river.  This  seat  marcheth 
with  Dale-na-gatnich  in  StrathSpey.  Upon  the  southsyd  of 
TuJnan  river  is  a  branch  therof  with  a  seat  theron  called  Tea- 
vorrar  or  the  Earls  Myre  it  is  1  quarter  myl  be  west  the  last 
seat  Dalnagatnich. 

Hard  by  is  the  hie  crage  called  Kareg-rank  or  the  freuch 
craig.     Be  west   that   a   quarter  myl  upon  Tulnan  is  Ruy-   . 
wowdin.     2  myl  thence  Ruyrich,  and  hard  ovir  aganis  it  upon 
the  northsyd  of  Tulnen  is  Daltan-Kreigach. 

Six  myles  from  Toulnan  southwestward  is  Lhon-whowllig 
icr,  half  a  myle  thence  Lhonwhollig  ocr,  hard  upon  Spay  upon  504. 
the  northwestsyd  therof.  half  a  mile  therfra  is  Dalraddy  up 
from  Spay  northward.  Half  a  myle  thence  upon  the  southsyd 
of  Spay  Kinrara,  which  is  esteemed  the  part  of  Spey  neerest 
to  the  springs  of  Dee  and  betwix  them  upon  8  myles 

The  head  of  the  river  Tulnan  doth  march  with  Killyn  in 
Stra  Harkeg.  Six  myle  above  Daltincreigach.  This  river 
Tulnen  is  14  myle  long,  and  endeth  in  Spey  ovir  aganis 
Abirnethie,  at  Innertulnan,  it  hath  wood  upon  the  six  myl 
therof  nixt  to  StrathSpey.  Ther  ar  6  or  7  seats  or  dwellings 
upon  it  above  Daltincreigach. 

Haifa  myle  from  Kinrara  is  Craig- Alvie  a  hie  craige  upon 
the  northsyd  of  the  river.  Item  Loch  Alvie  a  myle  long  with 
a  smaller  loch  hard  by  called  Dowlochen,  hard  by  upon  the 
southeast  syd  of  the  forsaid  craige  where  the  water  of 
Kowonaeg  falling  in  Dowlochen  ther  falleth  in  Loch  Alvie 


574  BADENOCH 

a  burne  called  Alt  Ruddaeg,  ther  falleth  in  that  same  loch  also 
Alt  Chriachie  or  the  marching  burn.  The  burne  that  falleth 
out  of  Loch  Alvie  to  Spay  is  called  Balgy 

Upon  the  southeast  syd  of  Loch  Alvie,  standeth  Gertne- 
nachre.  At  the  northfute  of  Craig  Alvie,  standeth  Skeir 
Alvie  Kirk,  betwix  the  twa  lochis  as  in  ane  inche. 

Above  Dalraddich  half  a  myl  westward  Dalfowir,  hard 
by  it  is  Petacheiring.  Half  a  myle  thence  Petaurie,  ther- 
fra  half  myl  up  Kincliraig.  half  myl  above  that  Dounach- 
tan  Beg.  All  thir  thrie  former  hard  upon  the  northsyd 
of  Spay. 

Half  a  myl  from  the  last  is  Dounachtan  Moir,  betwix  these 
twa  Dounachtans,  is  the  burn  Alta  Whowling. 

Ovir  aganis  thir  towns  last  spoken  the  river  Spey  disboggeth 
in  a  loch  a  myll  long  and  more  called  Lochenis. 

Westward  half  a  myl  above  Dunachtane  hard  upon  the  river 
is  Rait  Icre  a  quarter  myl  therfra  Rait-Meannach  with  Alt 
Rait  betwix  them  and  then  a  quarter  myl  furdir  up  is  Rait 
Ocre.  A  myl  above  that  is  Kingeusie  Beg,  a  myl  therfra 
505,  Ardvredach  a  myl  therfra  Kingeusie  Moir  with  a  kirk  and  a 
Priorie  upon  the  east  syde  of  the  water  of  Goynack  a  small 
river,  as  it  entreth  in  Spey,  it  falleth  out  of  Loch  Goynack  a 
myl  long,  with  Ylen  Loch  Goynack  besyd  Kraig  Breack. 
Kingeusie  Moir  is  upon  the  westsyd  of  Goynack.  A  quarter 
myl  be  west  Kingussie  is  Pitmaen  with  excellent  fyne  medowis 
upon  Spay,  a  quarter  westward  is  Balechroan,  half  a  myle 
above  that  a  burne  called  Alt  Laurie  with  a  dwelling  called 
Strone,  a  quarter  therfra  Chluyn  a  quarter  therfra  is  Ben- 
nachar,  heir  is  upon  the  west  of  Bennachar,  Avon  Kalladar 
falling  in  Spey  out  of  Glen  Kalladar. 

Craig  Ow  a  very  hie  and  steep  mountayne  is  betwix  Spay 
and  the  syd  of  the  said  Glen  Bennachar.  Hard  by  on  the 
uthir  syd  of  Kalladar  is  Bhealad  Moir  a  quarter  therfra  is 
Bhealad  Beg.  a  myl  therfra  Owy,  a  myl  from  that  Klowonie, 
with  a  smal  glen  called  Glen  Clowonie. 

A  myl.  therfra  hard  upon  the  river  is  Gask  a  myle  therfra 
Pit  Gawin.  with  a  burne  upon  the  westsyd  therof  a  myl  thence 
Gherr  Gask.  A  myl  therfra  Garvie  icre,  then  half  a  myle 
thence  Garvie  ocre. 


BADENOCH  575 

Upon  the  south  westsyd  of  Spay  is  Laggan  twa  mylebe  west 
Garvie  ocre,  with  a  loch. 

Six  or  seaven  myle  above  Garvie  ocre  in  the  wildernes 
betwix  Lochabyr  and  Badenoch  is  LochSpey,  out  of  which 
that  great  river  falleth,  it  is  small  not  a  myl  of  lentht,  the 
places  about  the  Loch  is  called  Kory-chertill  it  is  esteemed  to 
be  four  myle  tlier  fra  to  the  first  town  in  Lochabyr  called 
Lacroy  upon  the  river  Roy  in  Glen  Roy. 

This  River  of  Spey  is  accounted  the  longest  river  in  Scot- 
land, for  following  the  draught  thereof,  not  accounting  smal 
crooks  and  windings,  it  wilbe  no  less  then  thriescoir°myles 
long,  in  its  cours  it  is  swyft  above  them  all,  running  throw 
hills  and  cuming  from  hie  countrey,  it  is  most  myld  and  calme 
in  the  course  as  it  runneth  through  Badenoch  afterward  lower  506. 
down,  a  great  deal  more  furious,  yea  at  the  entrie  into  the  sea 
it  abateth  nothing  of  the  wonted  swiftness  and  suffereth  the 
sea  within  it  be  tyds  verie  litle,  not  above  a  myle  it  is  exceed- 
ing clear  water  so  that  a  man  looking  into  it  wold  judge  it 
shallow  in  many  places  and  foordable,  but  it  is  far  uthirwayis, 
and  a  great  deal  more  deep  then  it  doth  show,  it  hath  manie 
rivers  and  great  burns  fall  in  it.  All  very  clear  streamis  but 
Avin  river,  which  cometh  out  of  StrathAvin  on  the  southsyd 
above  them  all,  yea  more  clear  and  pure  then  anie  river  in 
Scotland  whatsoever,  this  swiftness  and  furious  course  of 
Spey,  suffreth  no  mills,  dams,  cruvis  years  upon  it.  wherby 
great  plentie  of  salmond  ar  therin  far  beyond  anie  river  in  the 
kingdom  even  from  the  springs  to  the  fall  therof.  the  greatest 
plentie  wherof  ar  fished  at  the  mouth  be  thrie  cobils  onlie, 
wherof  every  one  hath  a  number  of  men  to  attend  the  service 
of  them,  far  by  the  use  of  uthir  rivers  becaus  of  the  great 
strenth  of  the  streame  and  all  this  great  and  gaynefull  fisching 
is  done  in  less  space  of  the  river  than  a  quarter  myl  or  litle 


more. 


This  fisching  perteyned  to  the  Abbay  of  Pluscardine,  which 
lyeth  sum  four  myles  from  Elgyne  in  Murray  southwest 
therfra  and  as  is  reported  upon  this  occasion.  One  of  the  old 
Kings  travayling  that  way,  was  lodged  in  that  Abbey,  wher 
his  fair  wes  very  sobre  altho  the  monks  could  have  done  better, 
the  Pryour  a  subtle  greedie  man  had  so  devysed.  the  King 


576  BADENOCH 

enquired  the  reason,  the  Pryour  excused  all  upon  the  povertie 
of  the  hous,  which  being  easielie  believed,  the  King  myndfull  to 
help  that,  asked  what  they  desyred  perteyned  to  him  to  help 
them  the  Pryour  desyred  no  more  but  the  fishing  of  a  ridge 
lenth  in  Spey,  which  wes  easiely  graunted  whereby  they 
507.  became  masters  of  tha*t  riche  fishing  as  their  neighbours  of 
Killos  wer  of  the  fishing  of  Findorne  besyd  Forres  and  indeed 
there  are  no  rivers  whatsumever  from  Dow  north  to  Strath 
Naverne,  yea  far  beyond,  may  compair  in  plentie  of  fishing 
with  thois  two  rivers  of  Spay  and  Findorne. 

A  myle  be  east  Laggan  on  the  southsyd  of  Spay  is  Crechie 
Beg  hard  by  is  Creiche  Moir  with  a  burne  betwix  them.  Twa 
myl  thence  is  Shyro  Beg.  and  hard  by  Shyro  Moir.  Betwix 
the  twa  Creechies  runneth  in  the  water  of  Glen  Aermy.  A  myl 
from  Shyro  Moir  is  Katelaig,  a  myl  from  that  is  Gaskin- 
Lhoyne.  Aftir  it  ar  thrie  touns  forgotten. 

N.B  the  names  of  thir  thrie  towns  ar  Catelaig.  Brecachie. 
Cory  Altie,  and  the  fourt  is  Messin  Tullich  which  last  is  ovir 
agains  Owy. 

Ther  be  thrie  myles  from  Gaskin-Lhoyne  to  the  mouth  of 
Avon  Truym  falling  from  Glen-Truyme  five  mile  long  and 
cuming  out  of  Loch  Eiray. 

More  sum  burns  and  waters  cum  out  of  Carne  Derg  or  Rid 
Carne,  a  mightie  mountayne  riche  in  deer  and  Bin-Aillhoyr 
these  ar  the  twa  principal  hunting  places  in  Badenoch  betwix 
the  Rannoch  and  Badenoch  and  betwix  Bra-Vadenoch  and 
Lochabyr.  Loch  Eirak  is  but  4  myl  long,  and  two  of  breadth, 
and  is  upon  Avon  Truym.  2  myle  from  Loch  Eirak  on  the 
westsyd  therof  is  fress^muccara  upon  the  eastsyd  of  Truym 
half  a  myl  thence  is  Tallunoch  therfra  a  myl  on  the  west  is 
Krowbin  moir,  a  quarter  therfra  Krowbin  beg.  a  quarter  fra 
that  upon  the  east  syd  is  Etteress,  a  myl  thence  furdir  down 
upon  the  east  syd  at  the  mouth  of  Truyme  is  Innerhavon. 

South  from  Spay  a  myle  is  Fayenes  with  Alt  Fayenes  2  myl 
therfra  Naid-Moir  upon  Spay  with  a  litle  burne  a  quarter 
thence  Naid  Beg.  fra  that  it  is  half  a  myle  to  Ruven  castell 
the  onlie  and  principall  dwelling  of  the  Lord  of  the  Countrey 


1  The  word  '  fress'  is  '  press  '  in  the  original. — ED. 


BADENOCH  577 

weel  seated  upon  a  green  bank,  about  a  bowshot  from  the 
river  A  myle  be  east  the  Castell  of  Ruffen  is  the  Glen  m. 
Trummie,  4  myl  long,  cuming  out  of  Lochna-Schele-Chirnich 
towards  Athole,  a  Loch  of  twa  myle  long,  1  myl  broad,  twa 
myl  up.  Upon  the  eastsyd  of  Trummy  is  Kayllie-Whundenie. 
At  the  westsyd  of  the  mouth  of  Trummy,  a  myle  fra  Ruffen  is 
Inner  Trummie,  ovir  aganis  it  upon  the  othersyd  of  Trummy 
is  Inner  Dale,  half  a  myl  beneth  that  upon  Spay  is  Inner 
Owlass,  a  myl  therfra  is  Farlety  upon  the  west  of  Loch 
Inche  then  is  Loch  Inche.  A  myle  from  Farletie  is  Balnespick 
a  myl  from  it  is  Inner  Ishie,  upon  the  westsyd  of  Fischie  river 
at  the  mouth  therof.  Item  upon  a  half  Yland  in  Loch  Inche  is 
Tome  Inche,  a  seat  and  kirk,  a  quarter  myl  be  west  Inner  Ishie 

Tua  myl  above  Inner  Ishie  up  the  said  river  of  Fishie  upon 
the  west  syd  therof  is  Contelait  1  myl  up  on  the  same  syd  of 
that  river  is  Cory  Arnisdail  beg,  2  myle  thence  Cory  Arnis- 
daill  moir.  Upon  the  eastsyd  of  Fishie  is  Innermarky,  with  Alt 
Marky  cuming  out  of  Glen  Marky.  half  a  myle  thence  Croft 
Inner  Marky.  A  quarter  myl  from  InnerMarky  entreth  in 
AltRoy  falling  out  of  a  uglie  Corie  cald  Cory  Roy,  with  a 
mightie  steep  craggie  hill  called  Craig  Megevie,  with  manie 
deer  above  and  fair  firr  wood  below  2  myl  thence  foment  Inner 
Ishie  is  Dalnavert  a  myl  thence,  hard  upon  Spay  is  Kinrara  na 
Caille  with  good  firr  wood. 

All  the  Strath  of  Badenoch  is  not  ovir  a  myle  of  breadth 
untill  the  hills  beginne.  It  is  a  most  rich  and  fertill  valey  in 
cornis  and  riche  medow  pasturis.  With  manie  plesant  and 
commodious  situations,  the  cornis  ar  aboundant  and  soon 
rypened  whereby  they  never  want  plentie,  and  furnish  all  the 
neighbour  countreys  (wherof  many  ar  scars  of  cornis  altho 
plentifull  in  pasture)  aboundantlie  everie  year,  they  have 
stoar  of  cattell,  and  riche  pasturis  among  the  hills  and  glennis, 
they  have  aboundance  of  fresch  water  fische  specially  salmond 
and  no  lack  of  wood,  so  that  they  lack  little  which  ane  Inland  509. 
Countrey  can  require.  Altho  they  be  of  all  the  provinces  of 
Scotland  furthest  off'  from  seas,  and  scatred  as  it  were  in  a 
verie  hie  countrey,  no  other  countrey  be  dwellings  or  corne- 
land,  being  neer  them  except  StrathSpey,  which  lyeth  beneth 
alongst  the  river. 

VOL.   II.  ^° 


578  LENNOX— STERLINGSHYR 

Nixt  Kinrara  is  Rothymurchus.  Half  a  myle  southeast 
from  Kinrara  is  Lochnagawin  a  myle  long  with  firewoods  about 
it.  a  myl  be  east  this  loch  is  Rothymurcus  loch  a  myl  long 
with  a  burne  joyning  the  said  twa  Lochs.  In  this  last  Loch 
is  a  tour  in  ane  Inche.  A  myl  from  Kinrara  hard  upon  Spey 
is  Kean  na  pool,  heir  is  a  great  hie  hill  called  Torbain  just 
ovir  agains  Craig  Alvie.  which  is  on  the  northsyd,  and  betwix 
Rothymurcus  and  Spey.  Half  a  myl  be  east  Kean  na  Pool  is 
Balemore,  with  the  kirk  of  Rothymurkus.  Upon  the  west- 
syd  of  Avon  Rothymurcus  as  it  falleth  in  Spey.  A  myle 
above  Balemore  is  Tullich  Row  upon  the  east  of  Loch  Rothy- 
murcus with  great  and  large  firr  woods  Item  Avon  Trowy 
entereth  in  Avon  Rothymurcus  a  myl  befor  it  fall  in  Spey. 
This  Avon  Trowy  hath  a  glen  on  the  west  of  it  called 
Glen  Ennich.  With  Loch  Ennich  thrie  myle  long  cuming 
out  of  Cory  Ennich.  Item  upon  the  southeast  of  Trowy  is  a 
burn  cuming  out  off  Loch  Moirlich,  a  myl  long  in  Glenmoir, 
it  twa  myl  befor  Ennich  fal  in  Trowy  from  the  head  therof 
and  2  myl  befor  Moirlich  entreth  in  Trowy  from  the  head 
therof  also. 

Half  a  myl  from  Tulloch  Row  upon  the  west  is  Innertrowy. 
Upon  the  eastsyd  of  Trowy  hard  by  the  former  is  Innerdale. 

Item  upon  the  east,  beneth  Loch  Moirlich  twa  myle  is  Bale- 
rongan.  half  a  myl  therfra  Gewsalich,  it  is  a  myle  above  Dale. 


BIO.  NOATS  of  LENNOX  and  STERLINGSHYR 
gotten  fra  GENTLEMEN  of  that  countrey 
15  May  1644. 

The  springs  of  Kelvyn  river  cum  from  above  Colyam  Cast 
in  Sterlingschyr.  hard  by  on  the  north  hand  is  the  Catlin  burn 
another  spring,  and  to  the  south  hand  another  more  up  then 
Achinvoyl,  whilk  is  very  near  the  head  of  the  water  cald  Beny 
which  falleth  down  to  Dunipace.  thir  dyvers  springs  joyned 
beneth  the  kirk  of  Monyabrigh,  begins  to  be  cald  Kelvyn  and 
fals  in  a  litle  loch,  the  goynie  burn  falleth  therin  also  from 
the  north,  then  the  burn  of  Glashdyr  falleth  in  from  the  north 
about  half  a  myl  above  Kirkintillo. 


! 


LENNOX— STERLINGSHYR  579 

Kirkintillo  fra  Kinked  just  south  half  a  myl  and  Kelvyn 
betwix,  it  is  half  a  myl  up  on  Glasdyr.  the  lenth  of  Glasdyr 
3  myl.  the  cours  fra  N.W  to  S.E.  tlieron  first  Kinked  on  the 
west.  Woodhead  2  myl  above  Kinked  on  that  same  syd. 
Gloret  a  myl  above  Kinked  on  the  eastsyd.  Bandcloich  above 
it  on  that  same  syd,  a  quarter  myl,  and  a  quarter  from  the 
water  syd. 

Kirkintillo  and  Partkirk  at  Kelvyn  mouth  8  myl.  Kirkin- 
tillo Glasco  6  myl.  Glasco  Partkirk  2  myl.  Glasco  is  fra 
Kirkintillo  SS.W.  and  Partkirk  fra  Glasco  W. 

Luggy  river  runs  in  Kelvyn  at  Kirkintillo  on  the  south  syd, 
the  lenth  4  myl  large,  ther  is  upon  it  Baidlae  2  myl  fra 
Kirkintillo  upon  the  southsyd  of  it.  Bandheath  also  3  myl 
fra  Kirkintillo  upon  the  northsyd— it  is  not  a  myl  fra  Munk- 
land  paroch. 

Munkland  Kirk  3  myl  fra  Clyd,  8  myl  fra  Glasco. 

Kinked  fra  Sterlin  12.  myl.  Kinked  Kilsyth  3  myl.  Kilsyth 
Sterlin  9  myl. 

Kelvyn  runs  east  and  west  inclyning  somwhat  to  the  south 
Cader  is  theron  3  short  myl  beneth  Kirkintillo.     Kirkintillo  511. 
Dumbartan  12  long  myl. 

Bardovy  a  myl  fra  Kelvyn  on  the  northsyd,  besyd  a  prettie 
loch  it  is  a  myl  beneth  Cader,  Bankell  is  a  rnyl  and  half  fra 
Kelvyn  on  the  northsyd,  just  north  fra  Bardowye 

Northwest  from  Bardowye  is  Mugdock  besyd  a  loch.  2  myle 
fra  Bardowye  8  myl  west  fra  Cader  or  therby. 

The  paroch  of  Leinzie  is  on  the  southsyd  of  Kirkintillo  up 
and  down  Kelvynsyd,  but  most  part  therof  to  the  east. 

Garscub  on  the  northsyd  of  Kelvyn,  hard  upon  the  river,  it 
is  3  short  myl  beneth  Bardowy. 

Northwest  therfra  is  Maynis,  2  long  myl,  it  beginneth  Dum- 
bartanshyr. 

North  fra  it  Bavie  1  quarter  myl,  it  is  in  the  Lennox. 

Craigtoun  northwest  fra  Bavie  J  myl  and  fra  Craigtoun  just 
nordeast  J  myl  Achincloich 

Jordanhill  upon  the  nordsyd  of  Clyd  2  myl  beneth  Partkirk 

Cloberhill  nordwest  fra  Jordanhill  2  short  myl,  a  myl  fra 
Clyd. 

The  river  Clyd  runs  fra  Glasco  to  Dunbartan  north  and 


580  LENNOX— STERLINGSHYR 

west  soft)  what  to  the  north  as  it  were  W.N.W.  and  fra  Dun- 
bartan  to  the  Cloichstane  it  turnes  a  litle  to  the  south.  At 
the  Cloichstane  is  the  entrie  of  it  to  the  sea  for  ther  the  coast 
turneth  on  the  left  hand  to  the  south,  the  breadth  of  it  at 
Dumbarton  is  a  myl  and  half  or  sum  less. 

Drumrie    a    myl    north    fra    Clyd,   a    long    myl    beneth 
Cloberhill. 

Cochna  is  just  north  fra  Drumrie  a  myl  and  half,  and  fra 
Clyd  2  lang  myl. 

Barnis  on  the  river  just  south  from  Drumrie 
Dunotyr  on  the  river  2  myl  beneth  Barnis 
Kirk  of  Kilpatrick   and  the  kirktoun   a  quarter  myl    fra 
Kilpatrick  down  the  river 

512.  Dunglas  a  myl  and  half  fra  Kilpatrick  on  a  rock  in  the  sea, 
beneath  and  about  it  woods,  it  is  fra  Dumbartan  a  myl  and 
half  Betwix  them  is  a  great  hie  rock  cald  Dunbuckhill,  then 
folio weth  the  tounland. 

Mayns  of  Cahoun  lyeth  north  fra  Dunbuck,  fra  the  town  a 
short  myl,  nordeast  fra  the  town. 

There  is  a  great  moor  cald  the  Moor  of  Dunbartan,  it  lyeth 
betwix  Cragtoun  and  the  river  Levin,  above  2  myl  fra  Clyd 
long,  it  cums  within  2  small  myl  of  Dumbartan,  the  northsyd 
of  it  upon  Leadlewne  which  is  upon  the  midst  of  the  waters  of 
Blayne. 

Blayn  ryseth  at  Balagan,  which  is  a  myl  west  fra  Craig 
Bernard,  and  runs  just  west  first  to  the  kirk  of  Stra  Blayne 
i  myl  long  then  to  Duntraith  a  long  myl  fra  the  former,  both 
upon  the  northsyd. 

Duntraith  hath  upon  the  northsyd  onlie  muirs  and  twa  great 
hils. 

Dunguyn  and  the  Parkhill  just  north  fra  the  castel  Lead- 
lewne is  on  the  southsyd  of  Blayne,  West  fra  Duntraith  1 
short  myl.  Lead  Lewn  is  a  great  wood.  South  fra  Dun- 
traith is  a  pretty  round  hill  with  a  wood  Dungoyael,  just 
agains  Duntraith,  the  river  betwix. 

Fra  Duntraith  down  the  river  twa  myl  is  a  place  cald  the 
Mosse  on  the  south  or  South  west  syd.  heir  wes  Mr.  George 
Buquhanan  borne.  This  river  in  its  cours  runs  west  somewhat 
norderlie 


LENNOX— STERLINGSHYR  581 

Duntraith — Sterlin-15  myle. 

Then  ther  is  Blayne  Killern— 3  my]  down  on  the  northsyd 

Croy  on  the  northsyd  also  a  short  myl  fra  Killern  and  heir 
it  falls  in  Ainrik  river. 

Ainrik  river  fals  in  Lochlomund  4  myl  above  the  lower  end 
of  the  Loch,  whair  the  Loch  casts  out  the  river  of  Levin. 
Upon  Ainrik  2  myl  up  on  the  southsyd  is  Kilmaronok  a  kirk 
and  a  fair  castell  and  on  the  northsyd  just  agains  it  standeth 
Buchanan  a  great  Castell  and  a  Kirk. 

Furdir  up  is  Drummikill  half  a  myl  fra  the  water  on  the  5/3. 
northsyd  then  is  Gairtnes  on  the  northsyd,  2  myl  fra  Drum- 
mikill.    heir  the  river  hath  a  bow  and  windeth  about  with  a 
crook  of  half  a  myl  to  the  south,  and  then  turns  agayn  to  the 
West.     Heir  is  a  great  salmond  Leap  commonlie  eald  a  linn. 

Twa  myl  and  a  half  above  Gartness  is  Cragy  vairne,it  standeth 
2  myl  fra  the  water  on  the  northsyd.  Upon  the  river  is 
Ballindallach  with  a  wood  2  long  myl  above  Gartnes  upon  the 
northsyd. 

Just  agains  it  on  the  southsyd  Braneshogill  upon  the  fute 
of  a  Glen  upon  a  burn  ending  ther,  a  quarter  myl  fra  the 
river,  a  wood  beneath  it  upon  the  water. 

Followeth  Balinchannaim  half  a  myl  up  upon  the  southsyd, 
ovir  againis  on  the  northsyd  a  wood  cald  Kyi  Trochen.  furdir 
up  2  myl  on  the  southsyd  is  Balglash.  Then  on  the  north 
2  myl  fra  Balglass  is  Kilcroich  J  myl  fra  the  river,  then  on  the 
southsyd  is  a  kirk  cald  Fintray,  2  myl  and  a  half  fra  Balglash, 
then  on  the  northsyd  a  myl  and  a  half  fra  Kilcroich  is 
Fintray. 

At  the  head  of  the  water  about  2  myl  fra  Fintray  ther  is 
on  the  south  ane  old  ruinous  castell,  cald  Grayms-castell  of 
Dundaff  moor  it  wes  cald  Dundaff.  it  is  upon  the  head  of 
Carroun  river. 

The  springs  of  Ainrik  and  Carron  do  joyn  verie  near  and 
low  ground  betwix. 

The  heads  of  Ainrik  and  Blayne  these  two  rivers  are  taken 
up  with  a  great  moor,  beginning  at  Graymcastell  then  to  the 
Cory  of  Balglash  then  to  Drawguyin  then  to  Kilsyth,  then  to 
Terduff  which  is  thrie  myl  down  upon  Carroun,  and  to  the 
Meckle  Binn  upon  the  head  of  Carroun,  it  is  cald  at  the  west 


582  SKIE 

part,  the  moor  of  Blayne  and  at  the  east  end  the  Moor  of 
Campsie  fra  the  kirk  of  Campsie  which  is  upon  the  head  of 
Glashdur  water,  half  a  myl  west  fra  Craig  Bernard 


NOATES   AND   MEMOIRS   drawn  furth  of 
Mr  TIMOTHEY  PONT  his  papers. 

The  ISLE  of  SKIANA  commonlie  called  the  SKIE. 

Item  betwix  Bracadil  and  Tronternesse  is  the  water  of 
Snisort.  Item  twa  waters  betwix  Keylburg  and  Snisort  towit 
Glenhaltin  within  a  myle  to  Kysburg.  the  uther  water  of 
Glen  Rumbisdaill  or  Rumbisdaill  water.  Glentillisdaiil  water 
mouth  some  myles  be  north  Kysebourg.  Item  nixt  the 
water  of  Glenvig  five  myles  be  south  west  Duntuyllin,  called 
otherways  Dunringill.  it  is  8  myles  betwix  Dundonald  and 
Duntuyllin.  Duntuyllin  is  within  a  myl  to  the  poynt  of 
Trouterness.  Betwix  Duntuyllin  and  the  poynt  midway  the 
seat  of  Eriskew. 

The  port  of  Trouternesse  is  five  myle  broad,  betwix  Dun- 
tuyllin and  Ghervad.  Item  Kilmartin  a  myle  neere^then 
Ghervad.  Within  a  myle  thence  Stensboll  nix  Ghervad  be- 
yond the  water  of  Kilmartin.  Nixt  Ghervad  2  myls  Could  na 
grock,  2  myls  nixt  Touttin  Icra.  a  myl  thence  Touttin  Gere, 
half  a  myle  thence  Grouban.  hard  besyde  Growban  is  Avon 
Roik  or  Ryce,  with  Eik  and  the  fresche  Loch  Harry  a  myl 
thence  Bordmeanach,  Item  nixt  Hollom  Ocra  and  Ycra.  with 
Loch  Hollom.  Above  thise  is  Bonstoure  thence  thrie  myles 
Fairnan.  thence  a  myle  Port  Ry  with  Evon  Portry.  2  myles 
thence  Peinville  thence  2  myle  is  Kammey  Keanvaig,  one  myl 
Achanatraneg.  2  myl  thence  Meaassin.  Item  thrie  myl  up  on 
Lochsligach.  Keanlochsligach  and  Avon  Sligach  or  Sligachan. 
Item  the  ferry  toun  under  Binscard  called  Scosa.  That  trinket 
of  hills  ar  generally  called  Klammaig.  Item  the  hie  way 
throw  thois  hills  is  called  Bellachan-Scard.  Item  Strath  Houlin 
or  the  Strath  of  Hollyi. 

1  The  words  '  not  so  '  are  interlined  in  MS. — ED. 


583 
the  seat  of 

11. «  u,,  oKuuiacn.     Again  within  2  myle  to  Strathoulyn  is  us. 
Skenadyr.    Item  foment  Scalpa  on  Ski«n«^  T  „. 


Skev 

Skenadyr     Item  foment  Scalpa  on  Skianach  Leuras.    hard  by 

is  Harpool  a  myle  thence  Askemorruy. 

Item  in  the  countrey of  Stra  or  Stra  Ordell  is  the  Morruy. 
Item  Castel-Chewles-Akin  with  sum  small  Skyrrs.  foment  ar 
the  said  Chewles.  Item  nixt  Brackle,  Scoulonin,  hard  by  the 
IS  Shut.  Keanloch  thrie  myle  from  the  former.  2  myl 
thens  lyeth  Dowisgill  ycre  and  ocra  Thence  half  a  myle 
Tontamunch  that  is  to  say  a  toung  betwix  twa  seas.  A  myle 
thence  Castel-Chammey.  Betwix  this  and  Chewles-Akin  is 
8  myles,  then  the  first  in  Slait,  Tong,  a  quarter  from  thence 
Sasig,  a  myle  thence  Kilmoir.  Hard  by  Kil beg.  a  half  thence 
Ostaip  moir  and  Beg.  a  myl  thence  Tormaise,  thence  2  myl 
Ardlait. 

Item  Loch  Eissort  and  Slait,  it  is  half  a  myl  broad 

and  seaven  myle  long  it  is  4  myles  betwix  Castell  Chammey 
and  the  mouth  of  Loch  Eissort.  Item  Ord.  Item  3  myle  thence 
Dunshaich  thrie  myl  from  the  head  of  Loch  Eisort  upon  this 
syd  of  the  Loch.  Then  the  first  in  the  head  of  the  loch  on  the 
syd  farrest  from  us  4  myl  thence  is  Boreraig.  it  is  a  myl  betwix 
Kilchrist  which  I  did  see  and  Killurid.  Dunshaich  is  above 
Ord  a  myl  on  this  cheek  of  Loch  Eisort  which  is  the  march 
betwix  Sklait  and  Mingeness.  Loch  Eisart  is  the  marche 
betwix  Slait  and  Straordell.  it  is  about  ten  myles  broad  at 
the  mouth. 

The  first  toun  in  the  countrey  of  Mingennes  nixt  Stra  Ordell 
is  Rowendownen  which  is  foment  Rumm  2  myl  fra  Rowen- 
downen  is  Glenbretill  and  Saavetin  Isle  with  avon  Bretill. 
Kilrnolruy  is  3  myl  from  Rowendownen.  Item  thence  five 
myles  Braharpoirt  heir  cometh  in  a  Loch  betwix  Mingenes 
and  Bracadill.  Upon  the  head  of  this  Loch  which  is  6  myl 
long  is  the  seat  of  Dreynach,  this  Loch  is  called  Loch  Herport 
Item  Ferren  Isle  in  the  middest  of  Meginnes  Loch.  Item  516. 
Kelso  upon  Item  foment  Kysburgh  upon  the  uthir 

syd  of  Loch  Sneisport  nixt  Nisort,  Choislader,  nixt  Grisarness. 
nixt  Tuddinvain,  next  a  myle  thence  Kildonnen,  then  Burrough 
four  myl  from  Nisort. 


584  SKIE 

Item  in  Trouterness  countrey,  Kisburg  moir  and  Beg,  thence 
a  myle  Polldun,  thence  a  myle  Poolnahalla.  Heir  is  Dun- 
donald  Castell,  thence  a  myle  Ouig,  thence  twa  myle  Edirgill 
moir  and  Beg,  thence  a  myle  upon  the  water  of  Vig,  Bruchvig, 
thence  a  myle  Scoudbruch,  thence  a  myle  Mungistot,  hard  by 
Chroshemer,  thence  1  myle  Knocko  1  myl  Barranasketaig  a 
myl  thence  Kroshemer,  1  myl  Kilvakisa,  a  quarter  thence 
Kraaulan  thence  a  myle  Borraness  and  Borraness-fuille,  1  myl 
Hownacklead  1  myl  Chroshemer  thence  a  quarter  Kilmore 
with  Avo  Kilmore,  a  half  myl  thence  Ballach  a  half  thence 
Duntvyllim  it  is  a  myl  hence  to  Rowhoumish.  Ardnakeldan 
a  quarter  myl  from  the  poynt.  from  the  poynt  eastward  a  myl 
Brundestot,  hard  by  Kilmo-Lowag.  thence  half  a  myle  Balma- 
kuyan,  a  burne  betwix  it  and  the  former  a  myl  thence 
Keandendruym.  a  myl  thence  Altavise1  seat  and  Isle 
a  hill  in  Vaterness  called  Hei-feald. 

FllESCH    WATER    LOCHIS    IX    SKIANACH. 

Betwix  Tronterness  and  Bracadill,  Loch  Huiska.  Item  Loch 
Whouildan.  Loch  Raraeg.  Loch  Towagri.  Loch  Growban.  Loch 
Orroid.  L.  Led  ill.  L.  Hellohald  these  ar  in  Macloyds  bounds 
Item  Loch  Tellibart.  Loch  na  Rowen-dounen  :  L.  na  Elachan  : 
these  ar  all  in  MacLoyds  bounds,  who  is  esteemed  greater  of 
lands  in  Sky  then  Donald  gorim.  Item  L.  Cholumkill  twa  myl 
long  with  ane  Island  and  tour  Item  Lochshant  :  Loch  Fadd. 
Loch  Gilchrist 

SALT    LOCHIS 

Loch  Eisort.  L.  leipan.  L.  Sckasaeg.  L  Bretill.  L.  Einort. 
517.  L.  Helport.  L.  Haerloish.  L.  Rowaeg.  L.  Bracadill.  L.  Vurkansa. 
L.  Poltil:  L.  Faillord:  L.  Grenbaeg.  L.  Chriseness. 

DISTANCES     in     CARRICT     and     the 
adjacent  SHYRE. 

Glen  Ap  is  in  Galloway  in  the  way  betwix  Chappel  and 
Balintrae  betwix  a  place  cald  the  thrie  standing  stains  whilk 


1  The  word  '  Altavise'  is  '  Altavick  '  in  the  original. — ED. 


CARRICT  585 

is  in  the  hie  way  and  the  said  Glen  Ap  is  6  myl.  and  heir  endeth 
Galloway  and  beginneth  Carrict. 

Carrict  is  26  myl.  long,  and  20  myl  broad. 

Stincher  is  the  first  water  theron  following  the  coast  fra 
Galloway.  At  the  mouth  therof  Balintrae  3  mil  fra  the  3 
stains,  this  river  Stincher  is  upon  20  myl  long. 

fra  Balintrae  is  Knokdolean  4  myl  up  on  the  N.  syd. 

therfra  Craigneill  2  myl.  up  on  the  south  or  westsyd. 

therfra  Kirkhil  6  myl  on  the  N.  syd. 


then  followeth  up  the  river — 

Daljerak  4  myl.  Penewharry  1  myl.  Corskleyis  3  myl.  Kirk- 
land  3  myle.  Kirkdamnie  a  paroch  kirk  1  myl.  Aid  Knalbenoch 
52  myl.  Dochorn  3  myl. 

Nixt  followeth  Girven  River,  the  mouth  therof  is  fra 
Stincher  12  myl.  northeastward,  it1  sum  18  myl  long.  At  the 
mouth  thereof  is  Girven  a  small  town,  and  a  kirk  in  the 
westsyd. 

Then  follow  up — 

Trochrig  1  myl.  Pin  kill.  2  myl.  Kollochan.  2  myl.  upon  the 
N.  syd.  Bargeny.  4  myl  on  the  W.  syd.  Bruntstoun  1  myl. 
Dachorro  1  myl  Drimmellen  1  myl  on  the  N  syd.  Bartlenna- 
chan  |  myl  Drymmochrin  |  myl.  Dalduff.  3  myl  Kirk  Michael, 
a  kirk  2  myl  Clencaird  1  myl.  Blaquhane  1  myl.  Kirk  of 
Stratoun  1  myl. 

Dun  is  the  nixt  river,  which  river  is  the  march  betwix  Carrict 
and  Kyle,  of  14  myl  lenth  the  mouth  of  it  is  fra  the  mouth  of 
Girven  12  myl  it  cumeth  out  of  Loch  Dune. 

Towns  and  Castells  upon  it  ar  first  at  the  sea  is  Grinen  1 
myl  up  is  Brigend,  then  is  Blairstoun  1  myl.  up.  Achindren  2  618. 
myl  up.  Monkwood  is  a  myl.  Above  it  Cassils  1  myl  on  the 
westsyd  therfra  still  upward  Barvistoun  1  myl  then  Keirs  3 
myl.  .  Above  that  is  the  Loch  6  m  long,  of  breadth  2  myl. 
sum  places  less,  it  hath  an  He  with  an  old  house  in  it  cald 
Castle  Dune. 


The  word  '  is,'  which  is  in  the  original,  is  omitted. — ED. 


586  CARRICT 

Following  still  the  coast  which  bendeth  still  to  the 
nordeast — 

Nixt  is  a  small  river  calle'd  Millanderdaill  it  falleth  in  the 
sea  betwix  Girven  and  Stincher  rivers  and  should  be  insert 
be  description  in  that  place,  the  mouth  of  it  is  4  myl  fra 
Ballintrae 

Places  upon  it  ar  Carltoun  at  the  sea,  then  is  Millanderdaill 
2  m.  up.  Troquham  a  castel  is  betwix  Girven  and  Dun  3  m. 
fra  the  sea.  fra  Bargeny l 

Mayboll  the  head  town  of  Carrict,  the  seat  of  the  Justice 
it  is  fra  Ayre  6  myl.  fra  Girven  8  x  9  m.  and  fra  the  sea  4 
myl. 

Kilchemyeis  2  myl  fra  May  boll  just  west  and  fra  the  sea 
upon  5  myl. 

Baltessan  a  myl  fra  Mayboll  to  the  southwest. 

Gadiehorn  2  m.  fra  Mayboll  northwest. 

Knokdon  3  myl  nordwestward  fra  Mayboll. 

Dunduff  4  myll  nordwestward  fra  Mayboll. 

DIVERS  DISTANCES. 

Betwix  Aire  and  Lanrik  in  Clydsdail  ar  24  myles  and  New- 
mils  town  is  midway. 

Douglas  Castell  and  Lainrik  8  myl:  Lainrik  and  Biggar  4 
myl 

Craufurd  Jhon  and  Biggar  10  myl  Craufurd  Lindsa  and 
Biggar  6  myl 

Biggar  and  Peebils  12  myl.  Loudoun  Castel  and  Glasco  12 
myl. 

Loudoun  and  Hamiltoun  13  m.  Loudoun  Lanrick  13  myl. 

Irwing  and  Lairgs  in  Cuningham  12  myl. 

Cros-raguel  Abbay  is  fra  Mayboll  2  myl  and  westward  fra 
Beltassan  J  myl. 

Kilmaars  in  Cuningham  is  fra  Irwing  4  m.  and  fra  the  sea  4 
myl  also. 

Shelach  of  Minnok  in  Galloway  at  the  head  of  the  river 
619.  of  Cree  is  fra  the  neerest  part  of  Stincher  river  in  Carrict  3 
myl. 

1  After  the  word  '  Bargeny,'  ' m  '  is  in  the  original. — ED. 


KYLE  587 

Betwix  the  said  Minnok  and  the  neerest  part  of  the  river 
of  Dun  is  6  myl. 

Head  of  Air  river  and  Lainrik  on  Clyd  8  myl. 

Ailze  Yle  is  fra  Aire  24  myl  and  fra  Ardmillen  18  myl. 

Now  Ardmillen  is  fra  Girven  river  2  myl  on  the  westsyd 
therof  this  Ardmillen  is  the  neerest  shoar  to  Ailze 

Cumnok  Castel  in  Nithesdaill.  Crawfurd  Jhon  8  m. 

Town  of  Crawfurd  Jhon  and  Castel  Crawfurd  Jhon  2  myl 

Castell  Crawfurd  Jhon  and  Biggar  10  myl 


KYLE 

Kyle  beginneth  after  Carrict  following  the  coast  at  the 
mouth  of  Dune  river,  which  river  marcheth  it  alongst  from 
Carrict. 

It  is  betwix  the  mouth  of  Dun  river  and  mouth  of  Aire  river, 
upon  which  the  town  of  Aire  standeth  2  myl. 

This  province  is  sum  24  myl  long. 

The  town  of  Ayre  standeth  on  the  southsyd  of  the  river 
with  a  fair  stone  bridge  of  ane  arche,  a  good  port,  and  much 
frequented. 

Lugdour  river  falleth  in  it  8  myl  above  the  town  on  the 
southsyd 

Air  river  runneth  for  the  most  part  stracht. 

S.  Kebets  kirk  4  m.  up  the  water  on  the  northsyd  and  fra  it 
sum  two  myl. 

Achincrue  4  myl  up  the  river  on  the  northsyd. 

Sundrim  4  myl  up  the  river  hard  upon  it  on  the  southsyd. 

Above  Sundrim  is  Gaillard  2  myl  on  the  southsyd 

Above  Gaillard  is  Partik  a  myl  on  the  northsyd 

Etterkin  a  myl  up  on  the  northsyd. 

2  myl  hyer  up  on  the  river  still  is  Colsfeild  on  the  N.  syd 

3  myl  up  the  river  on  the  southsyd  is  Barskimmin 
Kingscleuch  is  a  myl  up  on  the  N.  syd. 

A  myl  furdir  Up  on  the  N  syd  is  Bulloch-myll 
Toun  Castel,  and  Kirk  of  Machlin  is  a  myl  fra  Bulloch  myl 
and  a  myl  fra  the  river  on  the  northsyd. 

Sorn  is  above  Bulloch  myl  2  myl  on  the  northsyd. 


588  KYLE 

Smiddie  Shawis  is  just  agains  Sorn  on  the  uthir  syd  of  the 
river. 

Kilmuils-croft  is  above  Smiddie-shawis  half  mill  on  the 
S.  syd. 

Just  agains  it  on  the  uthir  syd  of  the  river  is  Dergean. 

Dadillan  is  less  then  half  myl  above  Dergean  on  the  N.  syd 

Wallwood  4  myl  above  Dergean  on  that  same  syd 

Mid-Wallwood  half  a  myl  hier  on  the  southsyd. 

Ovir- Wallwood  half  a  myl  up  on  that  same  syd 

Kemms  a  myl  up  on  that  same  syd. 

therfra  a  myl  up.  the  Muirkirk  a  kirk  on  the  northsyd 

Above  the  kirk  Aishie  burn  a  myl  on  that  same  syd. 

Above  that  the  Spy-slack,  on  the  verie  springs  of  the  river, 
fra  whiche  to  Lainrick  the  neerest  part  of  the  Clyd  is  8  myl. 

Lugdour  river,  as  said  is,  falleth  in  Aire  River  8  myl  above 
the  toun  on  the  south  syd.  Ther  ar  dwellings  upon  it  first 
Afleck  a  myl  above  the  joyning  of  the  waters  on  the  northsyd 
of  Luggar. 

Nixt  above  it  is  Ochiltree  2  myl  on  the  southsyd 

then  is  Watersyd  a  myl  up.  on  the  northsyd. 

Followeth  Loch  Norries  half  myl  on  the  southsyd 

then  is  Torringen  Cast,  on  the  south  syd  a  myl  up 

Above  it  is  the  toun  of  Cumnock  half  a  myl  on  the  southsyd 

The  Castle  of  Cumnock  is  4  myl  fra  the  toun,  and  standeth 
upon  the  river  of  Nith  but  it  is  in  Kyle  as  al  the  paroch  of 
Cumnock  is  also. 

Following  up  Luggar  River.  Nixt  above  the  town  of 
Cumnok  is  Shankstoun  J  myl  on  the  southsyd. 

then  is  Temple  land  half  a  myl  up  on  the  north  syd. 

Followeth  Logan  on  the  southsyd  half  mile  up 

Craikstouii  J  mile  upon  the  N.S. 

521.  Barlannochan  1  mile  up  on  the  8.  syd.  Duncan-yeemer  1 
mile  up  northsyd.  GlenMuir  1  mile  up.  N.  syd.  Dornel  1  mile 
up.  N.  syd.  Kevil  1  mile  up  S.  syd.  Cruick  half  mile  up.  S.  syd. 

Dalblair  ovir  aganis  Cruick. 

Glenmuir-shaw  2  mile  up  at  the  head  of  the  river 

It  is  4  mile  betwix  the  head  of  this  river,  and  the  head  of  the 
river  Aire  and  upon  12  mile  fra  the  nearest  part  of  Clyd  whilk 
is  Comes  2  myl  fra  Lanrick. 


KVLK  589 

Inving 


Irwing  toun  is  on  the  northsyd       ero   «       i 
stone  bridge,  heir  is  a  convenient  hZfo       £*  "'*" 

Following  the  river  up  on  both  sydes  is  thus. 
Craig  2  mile  up  on  the  north  syd 
Dreghorn  2  mile  furdir  up  on  the  S.  syd 
Achans  2  myl  up  S.  syd.  Cragie-Wallace  4  mile  up.  S.  syd 
g  Ellers]       I  m,,e  up  on  the  S.  syd  Caprintoun  In.ikup. 

Ricardtoun.  2  mile  S.  syd.  Kilmarnock  a  town  ovir  a.ains 
Ricardtoun  the  river  running  betwix  them. 

The  Dinn  above  Kilmamock  1  mile  N  syd 

Crawfurdland  1  mile  furdir  up.  N.  syd.  Sloss  hard  by  on 
that  same  syd. 

Rowallen  2  mile  up  on  the  N.  syd.  from  the  river  2  mile 
Uamisternock  2  mile  up  on  that  same  syd. 
Ovir  againis  it  on  the  uthir  syd  Haning.  but  2  mile  fra  the 
river. 

Kirk  of  Gastoun  4  mile  above  Damisternock.  S.  syd. 
Barr  hard  by  on  the  same  syd.  Sesnock  hard  by  also  on  that 
same  syd. 

Gaston  Cast.  1  mile  above  the  Kirk  on  the  S.  syd. 

Lowdoun  Castle  ovir  aganis  Gastoun  on  the  N.  syd  and  a 
myl  up.  the  river 

Newmils,  toun,  kirk,  Castel  a  mile  above  Gaston  N.  syd.        stg. 

Bankheid  2  mile  up  N.  Syd.     Braidlie  1  mile  N.  syd 

The  Hill  called  Lowdounhill  is  the  head  of  this  river  joyn- 
ing  cloas  to  Clydsdaill 

Sesnok  river  falleth  in  Irwing  river  8  mile  above  the  town 
of  Irwing  at  the  place  called  Sesnock  on  the  S.  syd 

Above  Sesnock  is  Carnel  4  mile  on  the  westsyd. 

Above  it  Brighous  1  quarter1  mile  on  the  westsyd. 

Nixt  to  it  is  Killoch  1  mile  up  on  that  same  syd. 

Upward  on  the  river  is  Fouler  1  mile  north  syd 

After  on  the  river  is  Achmannoch  2  mile  on  the  north  syde 

1  The  word  'quarter  '  is  not  in  the  original.  —  ED. 


590  CUNINGHAM 

Sesnock  river  ryseth  as  far  up  as  Irwing  river,  it  is  4  mile 
betwix  the  springs  of  thir  two  rivers. 


CUNINGHAM. 

Following  the  coast  northward  fra  Irving,  is  Garnok  river 

1  mile  fra  Irving. 

and  fra  Garnock  3  mile  is  Kyle  river 

Caf  river  runneth  in  Garnok  3  mile  above  the  sea. 

Eglintoun  in  Cuningham  is  fra  Irwing  toun  2  mile  short, 
and  fra  the  sea  a  myl  and  a  half. 

Kilwinning  is  fra  Irwing  2  mile  and  fra  Eglintoun  a  short 
myle. 

Cuninghamhead  fra  Irwing  4  myl  east. 

It  is  fra  Irwing  whair  Cuningham  beginneth  to  the  end 
therof  viz.  Skelmorlie  of  coast  15  mile. 

Arnok  river  fals  in  Garnock  a  mile  above  Eglintoun  on  the 
southsyd,  it  runs  fra  the  east,  ther  is  theron  Cuninghamhead 

2  myle  fra  Eglintoun,  and  4  fra  Irwing. 

Above  it  upon  that  river  is  Leinsha  just  agains  a  prettie 
green  hill  cald  Castletoun  green  hill,  Leinsha  on  the  north 
syd. 

Furdir  up  half  a  myle  on  the  north  syd  Stuartoun  kirk 
523.      Just  againis  the  kirk  on  the  uther  syd  is  Loch  rige 

Half  a  myle  north  fra  the  Kirk  and  fra  the  river  is  Corsell. 

Betwix  the  kirk  and  Corsell  is  Cochelvy  and  betwix  them  is 
Chapil  burn  with  a  bridge.  North  fra  Corsell  another  bridge 
on  Chapill. 

Pokelly  on  the  southeast  syd  of  Arnok  1  myle  and  J  myle 
fra  the  river,  and  fra  Steuartoun  kirk  2  myle. 

Up  the  river  fra  the  said  kirk  on  the  southsyd  is  one  myle 
Robertland. 

Southeast  therfra  viz:  fra  Robertland  just  by  it  is  Swinstie. 

Up  the  river  on  the  northsyd  above  it  a  myle  is  Blacklaw- 
hill  a  great  hill,  the  springs  of  the  river  cum  fra  it  about  a 
myle. 

Southeast  fra  Blacklawhill  a  myle  is  Carnhill  at  the  head  of 
the  river,  whilk  river  Arnok  comes  out  of  the  Blackloch  J  myle 
above  Carnehill. 


CUNINGHAM  591 

Blackloch  1  myle  long  f  myle  broad,  and  J  fra  the  Whvt 
loch  south  fra  it  Blackloch  being  north. 

Whytloch  1  myle  long,  half  myl  broad,  between  them  half 
myle 

Carcarth  water  cums  out  of  Whitloch 

foment  Carnhill  is  Drumbuy  hill  due  south 

Lugdoun  water  is  hard  by  Eglintoun  on  the  northsyd 
therof.  it  runs  in  Garnock  a  myl  fra  Kilwinning  and  a  myle 
and  half  fra  the  sea,  it  hath  a  stone  brig  a  myle  fra  Kil- 
winning alsmuch  fra  Irwing,  midway  Garnoch  his  course 
bendeth  northwest. 

Upon  Garnoch  following  up  the  river  are 

Kilwinning  north  syd  2  mile  fra  the  sea. 

Montgrenan  half  a  myle  up  above  the  uther.  south  syd. 

Woodsyd.  northsyd.  just  agains  Mongrenan 

Blair  on  the  S.  or  E.  syd  4  myle  fra  Kilwinning. 

Achinhervy  2  myle  south  fra  the  River  4  myle  fra  Irwing 

The  tour  W.  syd  4  myl  fra  Irwing 

The  kirk  of  Dery  5  myle  fra  Irwing,  and  half  myl  above  694. 
the  joyning  of  Garnok  and  Caf  rivers,  and  the  river  Ry  runs 
in  Garnok  1  quarter  myle  above  the  kirk  on  the  northsyd.   Ry 
cums  fra  the  nordwest  with  a  great  crook. 

Carsland  is  on  Garnock  6  myl  fra  Irwing  East  syd 

Kilburniri  a  myl  fra  Garnok  on  the  northsyd,  besyd  the 
Loch  Kilburnin,  a  myl  therfra. 

Irwing  river  cums  fra  Loudounhill  20  myl  long. 

Saltcoats  a  toun  and  harbour  3  myl.  fra  Irwing  N.N.  West 

Stinstoun  a  myl  east  therfra  up  in  the  land. 

Kellylaw  1  myle  east  therfra,  it  is  4  myle  fra  the  kirk  of 
Kilbyrnie,  it  hath  a  loch  of  a  myl  long,  east  half  a  myl  fra  it. 

A  myle  fra  Saltcoatts  is  the  mouth  of  Stainlie  burn. 

A  myle  more  north  be  the  coast  is  Minfod  burn. 

Upon  it  Minfod  1  quarter  myle  fra  the  sea  N.  syd. 

Nixt  a  myle  is  Gorat  burn  6  myle  fra  Lairgs. 

A  myl  therfra  Seamil  burn. 

Poynt  of  Paincors  4  myl  fra  Lairgs  and  fra  the  Seamil  burn 
a  myl  heir  ther  is  a  poynt  runs  nordwest  in  the  sea  a  large  myl 
On  the  poynt  therof  standeth  the  Castle  Paincors. 


592  FIRTH  OF  CLYD 

following  the  coast  twa  myl  is  Hunterstoun,  and  here  you 
touch  the  sea  agayn  in  the  way  to  Largis 

therfra  the  coast  falleth  straicht  nordeast  to  Lairgis 

DISTANCES  in  the  FIRTH  of  CLYD. 

Between  the  toun  of  Air  and  the  nerest  poynt  of  the  lie  of 
Boot  neer  30  mile. 

Between  Irwing  and  Boot  20  mile 

Between  Ayr  and  the  neerest  land  of  Arren  He  24  mile 

Between  Arren  viz  the  Cote  and  Boot  14.  mile 

Between  Ayr  and  Ailze  24  m.  Between  Arren  &  Ailzie  16  m 

Between  Lamlash  and  Ayr  16  m. 

625.      Between  Ayr  and  the  Mul  of  Cantyr  the  neerest  way  36  myl 
viz  leaving.  Arren  off  the  left  hand  cuming  to  Ayr. 

Between  Arren  and  the  neerest  land  of  Cantyr  4  or  5  myle. 

Between  Boot  and  the  Clochstain  in  the  mouth  of  Clyde^T 
myle 

Between  the  Clochstain  and  Dunoyn  3  myle 

Lochlong  is  2  myle  broad  at  the  mouth 

The  firth  of  Clyd  runs  near  east  and  west  fra  the  Claichstane 
to  foments  Dumbartan  and  then  it  is  riordwest  and  southeast. 

Ailze  Ardmillen  18.  m.  and  Ardmillen  is  the  nearest  land  to 
it  upon  the  shoar. 

Mul  of  Cantyr  and  Ayr  about  36  the  way  be  sea  EN.E. 
and  WS.W  a  litle  more  to  the  south. 

DIVERS  DISTANCES  and  LENTHS  of  RIVERS 

Port  Patrick — Wigtoun21  m.  Karlinghops  Edinburgh  lOmyl. 
PortPatrick— Glenlus    9        Selkirk— Edinburgh       22 
Wigtoun — Dumfreis  30        Selkirk  Seaton  22 

Wigtoun  — Ayre          36        Peblis     Lanrik  16 

Wigtoun  — Glased       56        Peblis     Lithcow  18 

Pebles  — Edinburgh  16  Biggar  Drummailler  4 
Sterlin  — Dumbarton  20 myl  Reedhead — Dundie  15. 
Annand  town  in  Annandail  and  Edinburg.  56 

the  way  is  up  the  hail  river  Annand  to  the  springs  still 
north   then   down  Tweed   fra  the  springs  while  you    fall  in 


LENTHS  OF  RIVERS  593 

Lothian  the  draught  of  Tweed  falling  that  lenth  almost  nord- 
east. 

The  lenth  of  the  river  Annand  25  myl. 

The  lenth  of  the  river  Esk  in  Lidisdale  18  myl 

Dumbarton  and  the  ferry  of  Lochgher  as  you  goe  to  Rosneth 
8  m  and  2  to  Rosneth  fra  the  ferry. 

The  hie  way  fra  Edinburgh  to  Glasco  is  throw  Falkirk 

Innerara  and  the  Tarbats  in  Cantyr.  26. 

LochGilb  makes  a  bow  in  the  way  from  Innerara  to  Tarbat  SK 
castel  and  makes  it  28.  but  the  straight  will  be  26  be  the 
Marquis  Argyls  relation  from  whom  I  have  it. 

Head  of  Loch  Tay  and  Loch  Dochar  9  myl.  a  litle  river 
corns  from  Binluy  a  great  month  upon  the  north  head  of  Loch 
lomond  and  makes  the  spring  of  Dochar,  this  hill  yeilds 
water  to  Loch  Lomond  and  to  the  vest  sea  at  Dunstafa°-e  and 
to  Loch  Tay. 

Braid  Albayn  taketh  up  all  the  lands  north  fra  Loch  Tay 
to  the  march  of  Rennach  sum  6  myl  vest  to  Argyl,  sum  12 
myl  south  to  the  rivers  that  fall  in  Tay  beneth  the  Loch.  And 
litle  ground  to  the  east  of  the  Loch. 

Dunstaffage  Innerara  20  myle  as  I  remember  with  a  bow 
about  going  be  the  end  of  Lochaw. 

Balwhidder  stands  upon  the  water  of  it  hath  ane 

paroch  Church  cald  Balquhidder  this  river  fals  out  of  the 
hill  cald.  out  of  the  whilk  the  river  Earne  ryseth, 

whilk  Earne  falleth  in  Loch  Earne  the  said  kirk  is  twa  myl  fra 
the  Loch  Earne,  it  is  southwest  fra  the  Loch,  the  said  river 
runs  southwest  throw  Balwhidder  (the  lenth  of  the  countrey  9 
myl)  throw  Strahyr  under  Balquhidder  and  falls  in  Loch  Low 
benith  4  myl  long  and  1  myl  broad,  it  is  4  myl  fra  the  head 
of  the  Loch  to  the  head  of  the  river,  the  Loch  of  Earne  is  in 
the  paroch  of  Balquhidder.  After  it  cums  out  of  the  Loch  a 
myl  lower  it  falls  in  the  water  of  Teth  on  the  east  syd  at  the 
kirk  of  Kilmahug.  it  is  12  myl  fra  Kilmahug  to  Sterlin  doun 
Teth  all  the  way.  Teth  fals  in  Forth  1  myl  above  the  brig 
of  Stirlin  betwix  Kincarne  and  Kilmahug  about  24  myl. 

Glen  Ample  stands  upon  the  head  of  Loch  Arne,  it  is  of 
the  paroche  of  Balquhidder.  Loch  Erne  is  6  myl  long. 

The  lenth  of  Glenprossin  is  14  myl  to  the  fall  of  prossin 

VOL.  ii.  2r 


594  LENTHS  OF  RIVERS 

in  the  south  water  to  the  springs.  The  lenth  of  Caratie  is  9 
myl.  The  lenth  of  Southesk  fra  the  head  of  the  water  to 
Carathie  16  myl.  it  is  between  the  head  of  Southesk  and 
Casteltoun  in  Bra  Mar  15  myl. 

Between  Prossin  head  and  the  head  of  Yla  is  not  2  myl 
.  ther  is  between  the  two  rivers  a  small  river  cald  Lintrechin,  it 
hath  a  loch  of  the  same  name,  about  2  myl  in  circuit  being 
more  round.  Ila  runs  streight  to  the  brig  of  Ruffen  whilk  is 
of  stone  upon  Yla  a  myl  above  it.  it  is  fra  Ruffen  to  the  head 
of  Yla  20  myl.  Shin  and  Ardle  cum  fra  the  hills  between 
Angus  and  Mar.  Shin  to  the  east  whilk  after  the  lenth  of 
12  myl  be  many  crooks  fals  in  Ardle.  Ardle  looseth  the  name 
after  the  meeting  and  Shin  also  and  ar  cald  Ericht  and  fal  in 
Yla  at  Coupir  grange,  four  myl  beneth  Ruthven.  Between 
Ruthven  an  Kinclevin  9  myl.  Between  Kinclevin  and  St.  Johns- 
toun  6  myl  fra  St.  Jhonstoun  to  Dunkeld  10  myl  fra  Dunkeld 
to  Ballach  is  20  myl. 

The  lenth  of  the  Water  of  Dochar  and  Glendochar.  16  myl. 
it  cumes  out  of  Loch  Dochar 

Logy  river  runs  in  head  of  Lochtay  at  the  kirk  of  Killin 
whilk  kirk  stands  between  thir  twa  rivers  wha  run  very  near 
the  kirk  both,  it  runs  from  Northwest  and  cums  hard  by  the 
westsyd  of  Findlarig.  it  J  myl  between  Finlarig  and  Killin. 
Lochtay  is  12  myl  long. 

Glenample  at  the  head  of  Loch  Ern.  the  neerest  cutt  of 
land  betwix  Loch  Erne  and  Lochtay  is  7  myl. 

Betwix  Loch  Erin  and  the  Brig  of  Ern  18  myl  viz.  fra  the 
foot  of  the  Loch. 

Betwix  the  foot  of  the  Loch  Erin  and  St.  Jhonstoun  16 
myles. 

Betwix  Cowper  of  Angus  and  St.  Jhonstoun  12  myl 

Betwix  Couper  and  Dunkel  10  myl.  Cowpar  and  Kelly- 
moor  8  myl. 

Cowpar  and  Forfar  14  myle.     Coupar  and  Dundie  10  myl. 

Glasco  Kirkintillo  6  myl     Glasco  Hamiltoun  8  myle 

Dumbarton  and  the  end  of  the  firth  of  Clyd  ovir  agains  the 
Cloch  stane  is  ij  m. 

Glasco  Parthick  2  myl.     Hamiltoun  Lanrik  8  myl. 

Kirkintillo  Parthick  8  myl. 


BADENOCH-ST.  JOHNSTOUN-STRATH  ERNE   595 

Kalvyn  river  is  12  myl  long  the  one  spring  cum  fra  Sterlin- 
ihyr  about  Kilsyth  the  uthir  nordwest  therfra  sum  8  myles 
this  run  five  myl  or  they  join  Sterlin  Faukirk  7  m.  betwix 

NOATS  of  distances  for  BADENOCH  sta. 

RufFen  in  Bodenoch  and  Elgyn  ar  distant  the  nearest  way 
36  myl.  the  way  is  by  Creig  Elachy,  whilk  is  foment  Rothi- 
murcus  throw  Bulladorn,  by  the  kirk  of  Duchel  to  Lochen- 
duyrs,1 holding  the  southsyd  therof,  to  the  castell  of  Dunfale 
then  throw  the  Glen  of  Pluscardie. 

Lochenduyrs1  Elgyn  16  myl  Dunfal  Lochenduirs1  4  myl. 
the  kirk  of  Dunkile  1  myle  above  Dunfale. 

RufFen  and  Forres  26  myl  to  Dunfal  13. 

Balachastell  RufFen  16  myl,  viz  10  to  Rothimurcus  thence 
6  myl  to  RufFen  all  this  long  way. 

Keyth  Balachastell  18  myl. 

the  lenth  of  Talnen  River  is  10  myl,  the  head  therof  6  myl 
fra  the  neerest  part  of  Spey. 

NOATS   about   ST.   JHONSTOUN  and   in  STRATH 
ERNE. 

Duncrub  St  Jhonstoun  6  m     Duncrub  Bridge  of  Ern  6  m. 

It  standeth  on  the  south  syd  of  Ern  about  a  myl  fra  the 
river. 

Drummond  is  8  myl  above  it  up  the  river  on  the  same  syd. 
a  myl  fra  the  river  also. 

Drummond  and  fut  of  Loch  Erne  6  m. 

Drummond  Sterlin  12  m. 

The  bridge  of  Ern  is  fra  St.  Jhonston  sum  2  long  myl  just 
south. 

Duncrub  Falkland  10  m.     Duncrub  Abyrnethie  10.  m. 

OF  RENNACH.     Mr  T.  PONT. 

The  lenth  of  Rennach  from  Eastnordeast  at  the  brae  of 
Athoil  at  Boespick  the  first  in  Rennach  the  marche  on  the 
West  at  Pool-na-chaillach  or  Carlings  pooll.  betwix  the  head 

1  '  Lochenduyrs  '  and  '  Lochenduirs '  are  '  Lochenduryb '  in  the  original.— ED. 


596  KENNACH 

of  Brae  Loch  Lyon  &  Brae  glen  coen  this  is  a  moss  ther  ar 
manie  mightie  steep  hills  upon  GlenKoen,  scattering  out 
>.  stones  upon  the  seats  in  the  glen  therof.  Item  the  marche 
betwix  Rennach-Brae  Glen-Krevyrne  is  Lockgewsachan  and 
Kory-na-mein  in  Rennach.  Item  the  nordermost  part  of 
Rennach  is  at  Kory-eijach  or  Showting  corie  upon  the  east- 
most  end  of  Lekahuring  a  rowl  of  hills  distinguishing  and 
running  betwix  Rennach  and  Kean-loch-Treyg  in  Lochabir, 
which  Loch  is  aucht  myles  distant  from  the  said  hills,  no  seat 
at  all  upon  Loch  Treyg,  neither  in  these  aucht  myles 
specially. 

KORYES  IN  RENNACH. 

Item.  Nariff  twa  high  mountayns  betwix  Korygoan  and 
Rennach.  Hard  by  furdir  south  in  Rennach  is  Kory-mack- 
rennich.  nixt  and  hard  by  the  former  is  Kory  chercill.  Item 
upon  the  westmost  head  of  Loch  Garry  twa  myle  from  the 
former  is  Duynish.  nixt  hard  by  the  steep  high  hill  Meal  dyrry 
Mackone.  Meal  dyrry  Mackeon  is  betwix  Duynish  and  Cory- 
chercill  at  the  end  of  Lochgarry. 

Kori-eiyag  hath  Alt  Eijach  a  great  birne  falling  in  Loch 
Rennach.  Item  the  nordermost  part  of  Rennach  that 
toucheth  Badenach  is  Kori-goan  upon  the  nortwestsyd  of  the 
head  of  Lochgarry.  Lochgary  is  3  myl  long,  a  long  loch. 

Item  betwix  Rennach  and  Brae-glen  is  Na-lochen  a  high 
hill  with  certain  litle  loches  upon  and  about  it,  the  march 
betwix  Brae  Glenlyon  and  Finnaert  seat  in  Rennach.  Item 
the  head  of  Glen-tyiss  and  Glen  Krevirn  is  distinguished  from 
Rennach  by  the  highe  mountayne  Kory-chaba  and  the  twa 
Bochaletyrs  twa  seats  in  Bra  glen  Krevirn.  Ther  is  a  playn 
month  betwix  this  and  Krowach  Luydan.  Upon  the  westsyd 
of  Crowach-Luydan  is  the  great  mountayne  cald  Bin-Crowlash 
the  marche  betwix  Rennach  and  Loquhabyr.  Item  betwix 
Bin-Crowlash  and  Bin  Wreick  high  hills  in  Lochabyr  is  Vijsk- 
Alyin  (or  pleasant  streams)  this  Vijsk  Alyin  fals  in  Loch 
Eiach  or  shooting  Loch. 

Item  on  the  head  of  GlenKoen  is  Dowlochen,  twa  or  thrie 
small  Lochis  disbogging  for  the  space  of  thrie  myls  of  bounds 
a-myle  thence  eastward  is  Loch  Eiach  thrie  myle  long  with 


BUCH-WHYDDYR  597 

wood.  Upon  the  southsyd  of  this  Loch  Eiach  is  Kroach-  530. 
Luydan  five  myle  long  twa  myles  be  east  Luydan  in  Loch 
Eiach.  Item  the  westmost  toun  in  Rennach  is  called  Downen 
upon  Gawyrsyd,  and  als  a  myle  from  Loch  Luydan.  Item 
northwest  from  the  head  of  Loch  Treyig,  at  the  head  of  Glen 
Evish  is  the  great  moss  of  Mony-nedy,  or  moss  of  armour,  so 
cald  because  sumtime  the  Earle  of  Mar,  his  men  flying  from 
Maconeil  did  throw  away  thair  armour  in  this  moss,  this 
Monynedy  betwix  Nevish  water  and  the  water  of  Rha  being 
four  myle  long  and  falling  in  Loch  Treyig.  This  water  of 
Rha  cumeth  out  of  Kory  Rha. 

Item  upon  the  north  part  of  Rennach  at  the  westmost  head 
of  Loch  Eirachts  upon  Lochabyrsyd  is  Bellach  Triadan.  The 
eastmost  part  of  Loch  Hoishyn  is  upon  the  northsyd  of  Bel- 
lach-Triadan  the  westmost  head  of  Loch  Hoishyn  is  at  Chappie 
a  moss  upon  the  head  of  Loch  Treiyg.  Upon  the  south- 
westsyd  of  Loch  Hoishyn  betwix  the  said  Loch  and  Loch 
Treiyg  is  Lekanachailuy  in  English  the  broom  bank. 

Item  Glen  Roy  in  Lochabyr  is  10  myles  long.  Item  Glen- 
speachan  14  myles  long.  Item  the  southsyd  of  Glenspeachan 
is  called  Garvegaloch  four  myle  large  from  Ferseden  the 
nearest  seat  in  Lochabyr  to  Bellach  Triadan.  Howbeit  it  be 
12  myles  from  Bellach  Triadan  yit  ther  is  never  a  seat  in  the 
said  12  myles  lyk  to  Glenkynky  whence  it  is  evident  how 
great  deserts  ar  heir  betwix  Badenoch  and  Loch  Abyr.  onlie 
propre  for  deir,  nether  is  ther  yit  a  seat  in  other  ten  myles  on 
this  syd  Bellach  Triadan. 

Rennach  marcheth  with  the  south  of  Bra  Loch  Lyon, 
about  the  heads  of  Glen  Koen. 

Item  betwix  Loch  Rennach  and  Loch  Tinmel  upon  the 
southsyd  of  Tinmell  Kainnachan  forest  reaching  almost 
foment  Murrullagan.  Item  ovir  against  Kainnachan  upon 
the  northsyd  of  Tinmel  is  Bofaly  with  the  wood  an  forest  of 
Bofaly  reaching  to  Boespick. 

SEATS  in  BUCH-WH\T)DYR. 

The  kirk  of  Buquhyddyr.  half  a  myle  thence  Gartnafowar  1 
myl  Glenbocky,  a  myle  thence  Baleville.  half  a  myl  thence 


598  BRAID  ALBAYNE— STRATHTAY 

Baid,  half  a  myle  thence  Balevoulin,  1  myl  Tow,  hard  by 
another  Balevouling  with  Straheuure  with  a  burne  betwix  at 
Loch  heuure  head.  A  myle  thence  Ard  doun  dauf  twa  myle 
thence  Staink.  Item  Binlydy  above  Staink.  hard  by 
Kiurnach 

BRAID  ALBAYNE. 

Ther  is  a  way  from  the  yate  of  Blair  in  Athoil  to  Ruffen 
in  Badenoch  maid  be  David  Cuming  Earle  of  Athoill  for 
carts  to  pass  with  wyne.  and  the  way  is  called  Rad-na-pheny 
or  way  of  wane  wheills.  it  is  layd  with  calsay  in  sundrie 
parts.  Whair  this  Cuming  built  a  castell,  his  wyf  built  a 
kirk  he  ended  miserablie  being  torne  in  peices  with  a  hors  in 
Badenoch,  whair  falling  from  his  horse,  his  fate  stak  in  the 
stirrup  and  ane  of  his  thighs  stiking  in  the  styrrop  wes  brocht 
to  Blair  be  the  said  hors.  whilk  Blair  he  built  and  the  castell 
of  Mowlin. 

Item  ther  have  been  24  lairds  of  Weeme  thei  came  in  Scot- 
land with  Queen  Margaret  from  Hungary. 

Item  the  loch  of  Loch  Tay  is  affirmed  to  be  nnmeasurablie 
deep  foment  the  foot  of  the  skirts  of  Binlawers. 

Item  the  playn  haugh  upon  Tay  betwix  Beleachan  and 
Lyon  is  esteemed  5  myl  long,  in  sum  parts,  one  in  some  parts 
2  myl  braid,  most  pleasant,  fertyl,  even,  and  weel  exposed  to 
the  south,  protected  from  the  north  with  month 

Item  Blabalg  a  hill  betwix  Glenbreirnan  and  Mouling. 

Item  Binwyry  the  highest  hill  in  Strahardoch. 


IN  BOFRACK  foments  WEAME  in  STRATHTAY. 

Dunskiaig,  1  myl  thence  Farregill.  1  myl  Tonkry  1  myl 
Poirt  half  a  myl  be  west  that  Tullichowill,  1  myll  thence 
Striks.  Item  be  east  agayn  is  Tontwyne,  hard  by  Dintailler, 
half  a  myl  thence  the  mill  of  Aubrchalduy,  a  half  m.  above 
Bones  3  hous  high  a  half  above  Gun  Moness.  1  myl  be  east 
and  more  Moirluich  2  hous  high  also  Item  be  east  that  ii 
myl  and  more  be  west  the  kirk  of  Garntully  Tomteirvin. 


BRAID  ALBANE— APPIN-DOW 


599 


CORYES  of  BRAID  ALBANE 

Upon  the  west  southwest  syd  of  Binlawear  is  Cory  na  bruick 
or  cory  of  grilds  2  myl  thence  Cory  Chrennich  2  myl  be  west 
the  last  is  Kory  ghealduy,  2  myl  be  west  that  Cory  Mucky. 
2  myl  be  west  still  is  Lairglochen  6  myl  long  and  cumeth  out 
of  a  loch  1  myl  long,  thois  coryes  have  all  burns  falling  in 
Lochtay.  Item  Corylawer  betwix  Locknagat  and  Lawers. 

OF  APPIN-DOW  UPON  TAY. 

Item  upon  the  east  chek  of  Altchailtuy  3  Leignachar  and 
half  a  myl  be  east  Gairth  be  east  that  half  a  myl  Donafocus 
a  half  myl  be  east  that  Tome  Tewgle  or  Ryknow.  2  myl 
thence  Tygyrmach  the  kirk  of  Appin  na  Dow  hard  by.  Hard 
by  half  a  myl  thence  is  Dalrawer  or  fatt  haugh  upon  Tay. 
below  a  myl  thence  Kammer-awnan,  a  half  thence  is  Balchomas 
nixt  is  the  place  of  Weemh.  Item  be  east  Bateackan  half  a 
myl  Cowit  half  a  myl  thence  Borluik  half  a  myl  thence  Tom- 
choit  1  myl  thence  Cluny  1  myl  thence  Knockdar  2  hous  high 
in  Derkolly  be  east  Derkill  Knock f old uich. 

Item  Glenstrae  four  myl  long,  all  full  of  wood.  Mackgregor 
doth  styl  himself  Laird  of  Glenstree. 

SOMWHAT  of  the   HEIGHT  OF  BADENOCH  about 
LOCH  LAGAN 

Item  ther  cumeth  a  water  4  myl  long  out  of  the  northwest 
syd  of  Bin-Aillayr  called  Pottaig  at  in  the  end  of 

Loch  Lagan  Nixt  Badenoch  it  runneth  throw  Glen  Pottaig.  633. 
it  hath  but  certain  syminer  seats  in  it,  it  falleth  forth  out  of 
Binevin :  Item  Winchart  moir  Storne,  Leag,  Ruybaid  Shulag, 
Hard  by  is  Konyknappach.  Hard  by  Pool-dowbraik  these  ar 
in  Glen  Pottaig.  Item  Meinster  with  old  Meinster  running 
out  of  Cory  na  Varr.  this  burne  passeth  to  Avon  Pottaig. 
Item  the  kirk  of  Laggan  Chyirich  upon  the  northsyd  of  Patig 
at  the  head  of  Loch  Laggan.  Item  be  west  that  Tullichcromb. 
1  myl  from  the  kirk,  2  myl  of  wood  to  Abyrardour  and  Alt 
Ardour,  4>  myl  thence  Chaille-ross  with  Alt  Chaille-ress 
cuming  out  of  Cory  Chailleros.  2  myl  thence  Maig-craig  Chail- 


600  MONYGEGG— ASSYN— COYGACH 

lach,  at  the  ou teaming  of  Speachan  out  of  Loch  Laggan. 
Item  foment  Maig  forsaid  is  Torbullabin  or  know  of  Whaips. 
Hard  by  the  same  And ro widen  at  the  west  end  of  the  Loch. 
Corychouspick  is  3  myl  from  the  former.  3  myl  thence 
Stronsawar  a  myl  thence  Ardaurig.  Item  3  myl  from  the 
former  is  Muy-Etre-ta-Loch-Erich.  Item  Petraig.  3  myl 
thence  Knoyishyrnan.  Item  Kanloch  or  the  end  foment  the 
kirk,  a  myl  thence  Yaldowie  upon  the  southsyd  of  the  water 
of  Pottaig.  Item  Druymenourd  a  good  seat,  heir  is  triak  of 
month  distinguishing  Badenoch — Lachabyr.  Item  from  thir 
runneth  the  water  of  Massy  falling  in  Spey.  Item  Stra 
Masessy  the  first  seat  on  Masely.  Item  Tyrfegoun  upon  the 
height  of  the  rock  lyk  Dunbartun,  the  ruyns  of  the  old  castell 
cald  sumtym  Doutelair.  Item  besyd  Tullochcromb.  Strath 
Chrumachkan  with  old  Chrunachan  W.  Loch  Chrunachan 


OF  MONYGEGG. 

Item  the  stryp  that  crouketh  so  oft  upon  the  heid  of  the 
wild  Month,  and  hils  of  Mynygegg.  is  called  Keuchen-vin 
Lowib.  it  runneth  to  Athoil  and  falleth  in  Breur  and  Brour 
in  Garry.  Item  the  moss  descending  down  upon  the  uthir 
syd.  thrie  myl.  be  west  Stairsoch  is  called  Lekke-nyn-Tewnan 
684.  fra,  the  head  of  the  Krainlayd  being  the  first  seats  in 
Badenoch. 


ASSYN    EDERA-CHEWLIS,  COYGACH  and   the 

WESTERNS  PART  of  ROSS. 

The  countrey  of  Assyn  is  devyded  in  4  parts  the  first  Sliss- 
chewles  it  lyeth  upon  Chewles-gung.  the  secund  is  Etera  Vijsk 
reaching  from  the  river  Tralligher  to  the  river  Chireag  devyd- 
ing  Assyn  from  Coygach.  the  third  is  Rowstoir  where  a  great 
headlong  shooteth  into  the  sea  foment  the  Yle  of  Lewis,  the 
fourt  is  Brae  Assyn  being  the  Inland  countrey. 

Be  Mr  Timothie's  reconing,  betwix  Loch  Borrowlan  from 
which  Trallygher  river  falleth,  it  is  to  the  sea  19  miles,  at  the 
head  of  the  said  Locli  west  therfra,  hard  by  it,  beginneth 
Strockell  in  Ross. 


LOCH  LOMOND  601 

Avon  ^Ellevin  7  myl  long,  and  falleth  in  Kerkaid  upon  Assyn 
syd.  it  hath  Loch  Meady  three  myls  long. 

On  the  northsyd  of  Trallyghir,  beginneth  Macky  his  March 
ther  is  also  Ardnalynn  and  hard  by  Quinagg  a  verie  high 
hill. 

It  is  7  myles  betwix  Kean  Loch  Carrown  in  Coygach  and  the 
kirk  of  Combrich  and  it  is  4  myles  betwix  the  said  Keanloch 
and  Rossol  in  Coygach. 

It  is  7  myl  out  of  C.  Hen  Donen  to  Keanloch-Carrown 

Loch  Carron  is  a  bay  north  fra  Kyntail,  south  of  Loch-Ew. 
the  river  Carron  falleth  in  it,  the  head  of  that  river  marcheth 
with  Leadgaun,  going  down  to  Strath  Wrann. 

It  is  12  myles  from  Langoll  or  Cannord  (which  is  a  Loch 
hard  by  benorth  Loch  Breyn,  and  a  river  running  therein  the 
strath  of  which  river  is  called  Strath  Cannord)  and  Amad  na 
Goulin  in  Stra  Okell,  being  almost  both  alyk  east 

Bin-Moir-Assyne  a  very  hie  hill,  neer  Tralligher  river,  and  at  5S5. 
the  head  of  StraOkell,  hath  a  kynd  of  rough  marble  and  ovir 
looketh  all  the  neighbour  hills. 

Avon  Muckernich  ryseth  sum  8  or  9  myles  from  the  head 
of  Loch  Breyn,  and  the  Kirk  of  Loch  Breyn,  it  goeth  to  the 
eastward  to  Garrow-rachon,  and  falleth  in  the  river  Connan, 
and  so  in  the  fyrth  of  Cromarty  a  litle  from  Dingwell. 

LOCH  LOMOND  and  the  YLES  therin. 

Names  of  all  the  Yles  are  as  followeth 

1  Vealich  14  Darrach 

|  Two  smal  namles  15  Kowan 

4  Abbyr  16  Inche  Crowny 

5  Kernaig  17  Rosh 

6  Larinch  18  Karig-ow 

7  Inch  Chaille  19  Kerdaig. 

8  Turrinche  20  Bock. 

9  Laek-ow  21  Inche  Moin. 

10  Cre-inche  22  Chastel. 

11  Karig-ow  23  Gowloch 

12  Inche  Mourin  24  Inche-Davannan 

13  Inche  Fadd  25  Nowangh 


602  LOCH  LOMOND 

26  Inche  Connagan  34  Darragan. 

27  A  nameles  yle  35  Notyr-gannich 

28  Yland  beg.  36  Terbert. 

29  Inche-Lonaig  37  Rowglash. 

30  Freuch  Yland.  38  Ylen  ow 

31  KammerRaddach.  39  Ylen  Eaunlich. 

32.  Creigna  Skarrow.  40  Ylen  na  Chash. 

33.  Ylen  Rosh 

Yland  Vealich  a  bow  shot  of  lenth  nearest  to  the  river 
Levin.  Twa  smal  ylands  nearest  Porten  ylen  Item  ylen  Abbyr. 
536.  Ylen  Kerdaig  a  small  one.  Yland  Cuirnich  or  Kernaig,  full  of 
wood  it  had  in  it  a  good  dwelling  now  burned. 

Inche  Chaille  or  wood  inche  a  myl  long,  it  hath  good  corne 
land  wood  and  a  kirk  upon  it. 

Nearest  upon  the  southeast  end  therof  is  Turrinche  a  quarter 
myl  long,  then  is  Laekow  a  small  one. 

Kre  Inche  a  bow  shot  long  with  wood  in  it  Karigow  a 
small  one  these  do  ly  betwix  Inche-keillye  and  Inche 
Mourin. 

Inche  Mourin  twa  myl  of  lenth,  with  a  hous  of  twa  house 
hight.  wherunto  one  of  Duk  Murdocs  sons  fled,  when  his 
brethren  were  execute  be  King  James  the  first,  it  is  old  build- 
ing, and  is  cald  Chastell  Inche  Mourin.  in  this  yle  ar  many 
fallow  dear,  whair  the  kings  used  hunting  sumtyme,  it  hath 
also  plenty  of  wood. 

Thrie  myl  thence  northward  is  Inche  fadd,  with  wood,  and 
good  cornelands  low  ground  and  pleasant. 

Hard  by  upon  the  southeast  therof  is  Darrach  or  yle  of  oak 
a  flight  shot  of  lentht  a  quarter  myl  therfra  is  Ylen  Kowan 
and  quarter  be  west  Kowan  is  Inche  Crowny,  with  dwellings 
cornelands  and  wood,  nixt  is  Rosh  a  pair  of  butts  long  upon 
the  shoar  of  Erracher  moir. 

Hard  by  is  Carigow,  and  hard  upon  the  westsyd  of  Inche 
Crowny  is  Kerdaig  of  half  a  pair  of  butts  with  wood  in  it. 

Closs  be  west  it  is  Ylen  na  Bock,  or  goat  yland,  half  a  myl 
long  with  wood 

Item  hard  upon  the  nordwestsyd  of  Inche  Merin  is  Inch 
Moin  a  myll  long  with  wood  and  berryes  in  it. 


LOCH  LOMOND  603 


Nixt  upon  the  West  is  Inche  Devannan,  a  myle  and  a  half 
long,  and  of  the  same  breadth  with  wood  and  Excellent  fa  r 
broome  and  bernes  of  dyvers  sorts,  and  many  adders  upon  i 
The  hiest  top  of  ground  in  it  is  cald  Tom  naclag.  it  hath  the 
fiuiert  bmldmg.  of  all  thir  Hands  with  orchardf  and  fruitful! 
trees  hedged  about,  upon  the  west  southwest  syd  of  it  pertayn- 
mg  to  the  Earl  of  Glencairn. 

Two  bow  draght  therfra  upon  the  south  southwest  is  Nowach 
old  yl  of  lambs,  not  a  bow  draught  long. 

Hard  upon  the  Nordeast  of  Inche  Davannan  is  Inche-Con- 
nagan  a  myl  long,  a  half  broad,  with  birken  wood,  many  blae 
berries  and  plentie  of  Adders,  it  hath  dwellings  and  corneland 
A  small  nameless  Yland  betwix  Inch  Connagan  and  Inch 
Davannan. 

from  Row  chassil  a  bow  draught  is  Yland  Beg  a  smal  one 
with  wood. 

A  myl  of  water  from  the  foirsaid  Rowchassil  is  Inche  Lanaig 
a  myl  and  a  half  long,  and  half  as  broad,  adorned  with 
aboundance  of  Ew  tree,  which  it  alone  hath  among  al  the 
rest,  the  height  of  it  is  called  Meal-na,  gaur,  the  nordermost 
poynt  is  caFd  Row  newyr.  the  west  poynt  is  Rowna-harrach, 
with  Larrach  na  Heglish,  the  housis  and  buildings  ar  upon 
the  southeast,  syd.  wher  a  Kirk  hath  been,  it  pertyneth  to  the 
Laird  of  Luz,  surnamed  Colhun. 

Hard  upon  the  southsyd  is  French  yland.  two  bowshots  of 
lenth  with  many  blae  berries,  and  many  Adders  in  it. 

A  bowshot  therfra  upon  the  southsyd  is  Cammer-raddach,  a 
pair  of  butts  long  with  wood  up  on  it. 

Half  a  myl  thence  west  nord  west  is  Kreig  na-Skarrow. 
Northward  ovir  agains  the  seat  cald  Rosh  of  Glenegis  land,  ss 
is  Ylen  Rosh,  with  a  litle  yland  besyd  of  a  pair  of  butts  of  lenth 
perteyning  to  Makfarlan 

Item  Yland  na  Darragan  a  pair  of  butts  of  lenth  with  wood. 
3  myl  nord  west  from  the  former  upon  the  northsyd. 

3  myl  thence  north  and  be  West  is  Notyr  gannich  or  sandye 


604  DIVERS  DISTANCES 

Yle  2  pair  butts  long,  seven  myle  above  that  is  ylen  Terbart  a 
pair  butts  of  lenth  with  wood. 

five  myl  thence,  southward  is  Rowglash  with  a  prettie  hous 
and  duelling  perteyning  to  Mackfarlan. 

thrie  myl  thence  from  Terbart  to  the  north  Ylen-ow  with 
a  fair  dwelling  with  orchards,  it  is  of  equal  distance  from 
both  sydes  of  the  loch,  which  is  heir  a  myl  broad  or  rather  }. 

thrie  myl  above  it,  hard  upon  the  head  of  the  Loch  is 
Ylen  Eaunlich  of  a  flight  shot  long,  with  a  dwelling  upon 
it,  it  is  half  a  myl  distant  from  Dow-vysk  I  mean  the  mouth 
therof.  This  Dow  visk  in  the  uthir  syd  is  the  head  of  the 
water  of  Glen-fallacht 

MEMORANDUM, 

The  latitude  of  Edinburgh  is  56de*r  7  m. 
Latitude  of  Dundee  is  56  degr  37  m. 
Berwick  55  gr.  48  m. 

DIVERS  DISTANCES  14  JAXLARIE  1646 

IN     LENNOX,    STERLINSHYRE,    CLYDSDAIL, 
CUNINGHAM 

Above  Sterlin  upon  Forth,  Leckie  on  the  southsvd  4  myl  I 
myl  fra  the  water. 

Touch  is  on  that  same  svd  2  rayl  fra  Sterlin,  and  2  fra  the 
water  on  the  southsyd. 

Nixt  to  Luckie  2  myl  up  is  Cargannok  on  that  same  syd. 

furdir  up  is  Buquhann  2  myl  on  that  same  syd. 
53d.      On  that  same  syd  is  Ardmanwell  above  Buquhann  3  myl, 
and  fra  the  river  i  myl. 

Arnpriour  is  nixt  on  that  same  syd  fra  Ardmanwell  J  of  a 
myl  and  fra  the  river  1  myl. 

a  quarter  myl  above  it  ArnGibbon  fra  the  river  2  m.  J  on 
that  same  syd. 

3  myl  therfra  furdir  up  is  Cardros  on  the  northsyd  of  the 
river  closs  upon  it. 

2  myl  and  half  above  it  is  Bowmore  upon  the  river  on  the 
northsyd. 


DIVEKS  DISTANCES 


Buqu,,annan  sun, 


Kirk  hard  by  the  piace 

Buquhannan  Castel  fra  Sterlin  17  myl. 
Buquhanan  fra  Glasco  12  mjl.  and  Mugdok  midway 
D^mwhassil  upon  Ainrik  the  northsyd  from  Drummikil 
3  myl  beneth  Bochron  2  myl  \ 

Cragybairn  on  a  burn  that  falleth  in  the  northsyd  of  Ainrik 
fra  Buquhanan  3  myl  1.  and  fra  Bochron  Kirk  5  myl.        540. 


IN  GALLOWAY  AND  THEK  ABOUT. 

Drumfreis  San  chair  20  my]. 

Sanchair  and  Cumnok  in  Kyle  8  myl. 

Drumfreis  Drumlanrig  12.  m 

Drumfreis  Glentoun  upon  llm. 

Port  Patrik  Drumfreis  58.  m.  viz.  PortPatrickGlenluce  10 
Wigtoun  12  Ferrytoun  3.  Fleet  6  Drumfreis  24. 

Dumfreis  Algirth  8  m.     Algirth  Closburn  3  m. 

Brig  of  Drumfreis  and  brig  of  Cluden  2.  rn. 

Brig  of  Cluden  and  Brig  of  Dunskarr  2  m. 

Fra  the  head  of  Cree  to  the  BlackcraiV  at  the  mouth  therof 
21  m. 

fra  the  fute  of  Loch  Dun  and  the  head  of  Cree  6  m. 
Town  of  Lairgs  and  the  neerest  part  of  Cumbra  moir  yle  ar 
of  sea  a  just  myle. 

Lairgs  Irwing  12  myl.    Glascow  Kenfrow  4  myl. 


606  DIVERS  DISTANCES 

Renfrew  Paisla  2  myl.    Glasco  Erskin  10  m. 
Glasco  Irwing  18  m.     Irwing  Ay  re  8  m. 
Irwing  Monyboll  6  m.     Monyboll  2  fra  the  sea,  beneth  it 
on  the  sea  is  Achindrene. 

Moniboll  Ballintrae  16  which  is  cloass  on  the  sea. 
Chapell  at  the  head  of  Loch  Rian  in  Galloway  and  Balin- 
trae  12  with  a  bow  of  the  Loch. 

Kilmarnok  in  Cuningham  fra  Irwing  3.  fra  Ayr  9. 
Kilmaurs  northward  from  Kilmarnok  1  m  J  m 
Kil winning  2  m  fra  Irwing  northward  a  myl  and  less  fra 
the  sea. 

Lairgs  on  the  sea  north  fra  Kilwinning  10  m. 
541.      Newmils  a  toun  in  Kyle  upon  the  river  of  Aire  7  m.  fra 
Kilmarnok  and  7  fra  the  sea. 

Machlin  in  Kyle  just  be  south  the  Newmills  on  the  river 
Doun  7m  fra  Newmils  7m  fra  Kilmarnok 

Eglintoun  in  Cuningham,  fra  Kilwinning  2  m.  fra  Irwing  4 
fra  the  sea  J  m. 

Cassils  fra  Monibol  %  myl  east,  3  myl  large  fra  the  sea. 
Bargeny  on  Girven  river  3  m  J  fra  the  sea,  5  m  fra  Moniboll 
the  way  to  the  Chappell. 

Drochrig  J  m.  beneth  Bargenie  on  Girwen  water 
Monkwood  2  m.  fra  Monibol  on  the  north  therof  and  fra 
Cassils  less  than  a  m. 

Ardmillan  on  the  sea  3  m.  fra  Bargeny,  8  m.  fra  Monieboll 
and  fra  Balintrae  8  m. 

Port  Patrik  Chappell  4  Ballintrae  12  Monibol  16  Ayr  6 
Irwing  8  Glasco  18  sum  64.  but  it  is  scars  60  fra  Glasco  to 
Port  Patrik. 

Glasco  Kilmarno  14  m.  therfra  to  Irwing  4  in. 

Sent  out  of  the  south  to  me  in  Febr  1646. 

Annand  toun  and  Hermitage  Castell  in  Liddisdail  24.  m 
Annand  and  Haik  in  Teviotdaill.  28  m 

Annand  and  Jedburgh  36  m.  Anand  and  Peeblis  36  m 
Drumfreis  and  Lanrick  32.  m.  Drumfreis  and  Glasco  56  m 
Glasco  and  Air  24  m.  Lainrick  and  Peebles  16  m 

Hamiltoun  and  Peeblis  24  m  Glasco  and  Douglas  Castel  20  m 
Glasco  and  Sempil  Castel.  10  m.  Glasco  and  Paislay.  6  m 


STKATHEIREN  607 

Glasco  and  Irwing.  18  m  Glascow  and  Falkirk  18  , 

Irwing  and  Air  7  in.    Peeblis  and  Biggar  10  „ 

Dumbartan  and  Rosneth  8  in.    Drumfreis  Peblis 

Berwik  Kelso  20  m    Haick  Jedburg  8  n 

Jedburg  Selkirk  8  m    Jedburg  Kelso  7 

Douglas  C.    Lainrick  4  m 

Douglas  and  Dunfreis  26  in.    Douglas  and  Crawford 

Jhon  4  m     Interkinhead  6  m.    Dumfreis  16. 
Douglas  Kircowbrie  40.    viz  St  Jhons  Clachan  22  m. 

Kircowbrie  ie 

lo  in. 

Annand  town.  Esk  mouth  4.  therfra  to  Carlile  6  laro-e 
Annand  Muffot  16  m 


STRATHEIREN  in  MURREY  and  LOCHMUY 

Kirk  of  Muy  from  Inneresse  8  myle  south  situate  on  the 
west  syde  of  Loch  Muy.  Loch  Muy  is  two  myle  in  Jenth  and 
on  in  breadth  somewhat  ovale  shapen,  it  lyes  SE.  and  N.W 
Illen  na  Muye  is  in  the  midst  of  the  Loch,  but  neerest  the 
west,  a  Bowshot  in  lenth  its  shape  is  thus  CCD  and  in  it  is 
Mackintoish  his  house  scituate,  called  after  the  name  of  the 
Isle. 

In  this  Loch  are  founde  trowts  called  Reedwyns  taken  only  "~ 
betwix  Michelmess  and  Hallowmess. 

At  the  north  end  of  the  Loch  stands  Muymoir,  at  the  west 
a  wood  (Loichscoilk  the  cloven  stone)  equall  in  lenth  with  the 
Loch,  at  the  south  end  of  both  lyes  Tulloch  cleurr.  West  of 
the  Loch  stands  Muy  begg  and  the  kirk  Altnaslanach.  from 
the  Loch  NW  and  W.  J  myle  ane  wood  called  Kyle  na  hiren 
just  west  from  it  ane  other  called  Craig  na  en  or  the  birds 
wood,  heir  is  a  burne  twixt  the  tounes  and  the  wood.  2  myle 
in  lenth  and  a  burne  at  every  towne  running  into  the  loch. 
Item  a  third  wood  called  Derirr  na  cloich  or  the  Scrabblack- 
wood.  Item  another  wood  J  myle  above  Muy  beg  W  called 
Derirr  na  Shamprak  or  the  Cleverwoode  ane  other  wood  due  5^. 
S.  from  Muybeg  called  Hiadeirr.  or  Letir  the  lyart  woode  and 
a  Bush  beneath  it,  neer  the  south  nooke  of  the  Loch  called 
Letyir  beg. 


608  STRATHEIREN— OCHELS 

The  other  woode  which  extends  the  lenth  of  the  loch  is 
called  Letyr  Mair. 

The  water  of  Fintack  runnes  out  of  the  Loch  S.E.  and  upon 
it  is  a  milne.  it  runnes  into  Findorne  fourteen  myles  above 
Tarnowaye.  Tulloc  Smagarre  is  W.  of  Fintacke  Slyack  is  E. 
of  Fintack  lying  besyde  the  milne.  The  tounes  over  against 
other  midwaye  twixt  the  Loch  and  water 

At  the  inver  of  the  water  N.E.  of  Findorne  lyes  Ruven  on 
the  syde  of  Findorne  Water,  on  that  same  syde  lyes  Kean- 
craig  a  myle  beneath  Ruven  with  a  great  Craige  named  Craig- 
crokanor  the  Steepie  craige.  J  myle  under  it  on  the  same  syde 
lyes  Lagriach  or  the  spotted  valley.  The  nethermost  town  of 
that  part  called  Bothagan  not  J  myle  distant  from  the  other 
toune 

On  the  S.  syde  of  the  water  of  Findorne  which  runnes  from 
SW  to  NE.  stands  Cochlachin  4  myles  from  Muybegg.  above 
that  J  myl  stands  Baalcrokan.  and  from  that  1  myl  stands 
Pollochack  or  the  Lochpoole.  a  wood  interjected  twixt  the 
forsaid  townes  called  Dow  lettyir  then  a  wood  above  called 
Lettyir  gallerie,  Corry  bruoch  beg.  or  the  litle  bray  quarrell  a 
towne  standing  a  myle  S.W  from  the  last  named  town  and 
Letyir  galerie  interjected  betwixt  the  two.  ane  other  called 
Corry  bruoch  moir  J  myle  from  the  other  it  lyes  due  south 
from  Findorne. 

544.  THE  back  of  the  OCHELS  and  ALLON  RIVER 

Half  a  myl  from  Kippen  Ros  is  Drumnagon,  half  a  myl 
thence  Kippen  Devy  with  the  scouring  burn 

2  myl  from  Kippendevy  is  Lichill,  and  betwix  them  Barbuss 
with  a  small  loch. 

Item  a  myl  to  Clashinga,  and  a  myl  thence  hard  upon  Allon 
river  is  Kinbucks.  a  myl  thence  Glenbanks  with  a  burne. 
Hard  by  is  Bakady  with  a  burn  and  a  wood,  a  myl  thence 
Quoyigs  a  myl  thence  Onitsyd.  2  myl  thence  Rateirn  with  the 
burne 

Twa  myl  thence  up  to  the  Ochel  hils  is  Cockpla,  it  is 
within  half  a  myl  of  Glenvye. 

Hard  upon  Allon  water  agayn  is  Blewtoun,  and  a  myl  be 
east  that  is  Buddergask  with  a  burn  2  myl  long. 


AINRIK-BLAYNE-FORTH 


609 


A 
the 


myl  above  is  Rahalrig  and  half  a  myl  thence  Achalig  with 
burne  of  Glenany.  with  a  hill  above  it  called  the  Core 
i  is  betwix  the  Coir  and  green  forret  thrie  myls  cald  Bar- 
k'k'f  L°eWcktem  Kn°krall°n>  &°khi11'  the  -*  of  Keir,  the 


Nixt  is  Cromligs  2  myls  be  east  ar  thrie  Kammer  Shyinies 
and  *  myl  thence  thrie  Fedels  with  a  burn  4  myl  long,  with  a 
smaller  burn.  Item  a  myl  thence  Deanskeir  with  a  burn 

Item  there  entreth  Allon  foment  Porer  against  the  mil  of 
Kateirn  the  water  of  Knoick  6  myl  long  cuming  out  of  Glen- 
hkern  at  the  head  of  Glenairtnay. 

Item  upon  the  westcheek  of  Glen-licorny  is  Kinbrachy  Item 
upon  the  nordeast  cheek  is  Beny  Item  Clachan  Airdoch. 

SEATS  upon  the  bounds  betwixt  AINRIK  BLAYNE  545 
and  FORTH  RIVERS. 

Imprimis  Cragy  vairn  castell.  with  the  burn  Aid  wharr  falling 
by  it,  and  entring  in  Ainrick.  and  thrie  myl  thence  is  the 
burne  of  Balate  running  in  Forth  river,  and  upon  the  west- 
syd  of  this  burne  dwels  the  Baron  of  Achintroig  cald  Mack- 
lachan.  Item  Carchell.  Item  the  Abbot  of  Inch  Chaffrays 
hous.  Item  Balefoil. 

Half  a  myl  thence  the  Castell  of  Caerdenn.  Item  the  place 
of  Caerdros.  Item  be  east  half  a  myl  Achamoir.  Item  Am 
Gibbon.  2  myl  eastward  is  Broich.  Item  the  Kirk  of  Kippen 
and  a  myl  and  a  half  be  east  the  kirk  is  Glen  Tyrren. 

Item  upon  the  uthir1  of  the  mouth  of  the  burn  of  Buchan  is 
the  seat  of  Buchan,  half  a  myl  thence  the  Lacky.  and  upon 
the  hight  above  Lecky  is  Glenturnovir 

Upon  the  north  syd  of  Forth  ovir  the  coble  is  Wester  Frew. 
a  myl  benorth  it  is  Easter  Frew,  a  quarter  myl  to  the  south- 
west is  Kilmoir. 

Heir  is  the  river  of  Guydie  with  a  bridge.  Item  caster  and 
wester  Balintons  both  stone  slated  housis. 

1  The  word  '  syd  '  follows  the  word  '  uthir  '  in  the  MS.  from  which  Macfarlane's 
transcriber  copied.  —  ED. 

VOL.   TI.  2  Q 


610  FORTH 

Item  Poldyr  be  west  that.1 

Item  Coldoch.  Nixt  is  Balingrow.  and  not  far  therfra  the 
great  moss  cald  the  Kings  Moss  beginning  a  myl  be  west 
Coldoch,  and  reaching  east  to  Craigorth. 

Upon  the  SOUTHSYD  of  FORTH. 

Imprimis  the  burn  of  Achintraig.  Item  Garchel  a  my] 
thence.  Item  the  burn  of  Drummind  cumin g  down  by  chappel 
Larach.  nixt  is  Gartmoir,  nixt  is  Achintroig.  3  myl  be  east 
the  former.  Item  up  a  Balefool  or  Balevouil  a  half  myl 
thence  Carsillan  with  a  burn.  A  myl  thence  Kowdoun  of 
Bucklyvie  with  a  burn  and  a  mill. 

A  myl  and  more  eastward  is  Caerdenn.     Item  Arnpryour 

and  a  myl  be  east  Arngibbon  and  half  a  myl  therfra  Arnman- 

546.  nell  after  a  myl  therfra  Arnbog.     Hard  by  is  Arnemoir  a  myl 

thence  Aim   Finlay.     Hard   by   is  the  Broich   with  a  burn 

betwix. 

Nixt  that  is  Kippen.  Item  Gargannok.  Item  Touch, 
both  these  of  the  name  of  Seaton. 

THE    STRATH    of    MONTEETH    and    all 
upon  the  northsyd  of  GUDY 

Upon  the  south  therof  most  part  is  moss  except  litle  ward 

Imprimis  the  kirk  of  the  Poirt  of  Inch  Mahume,  half  a  myl 
thence  Kurroch  1  myl  thence  Rednock  with  a  burne  cuming 
doun  from  Achatreig.  then  is  the  Creig  of  the  Poirt 

Item  Loch  Rowiskich  with  an  yl  in  it,  the  loch  is  small, 
onlie  of  a  quarter  myl. 

The  burn  Rowiskich  fals  from  this  Loch,  the  burn  of  Red- 
noch  meets  with  this  burn  or  they  fall  in  Gudy. 

It  is  2  myl  north  from  thence  to  Kalender  which  standeth 
on  the  southsyd  of  Teth. 

A  myl  be  east  Rednoch  the  mill  of  Konisky. 

The  laird  of  Rowiskich  cald  Sir  Murdo  Meenteth  being 
killed  be  his  servant  besyd  Dumblane,  his  lands  went  in 

1  The  words  'and  be  south'  occur  here  in  the  MS.  from  which  Macfarlane's 
transcriber  copied. — ED. 


TEITH  6n 

division  among  thrie  daughters  who  were  married  to  the  Earl 

of  Lennox  and  the    Lairds  of  Marchiston  and  Glen-EiSe 

whose  heyres  do  to  this  possess  them  devyded  be  ridges     *    ' 

Blairchoil  a  myl  be  east  Rednoch,  half  a  myl  be  east  that 

upon  the  Moss  is  Kailly  muck,  then  Rowiskich  burn,  and  a 

myl  be  east  upon  the  Moss  the  Torr  of  Rowiskich  and  these 

ie  ar  upon  the  moss  marching  with  Gudy  river 

Be  west  the  last  is  Glen-owgader.  a  myl  above  it  Suyack  a 

myl  be  east  is  Achanasilt  with  a  burn,  the  chappell,  a  chapel 

with  orchards. 

Half  a  myl  thence  a  burn  and  a  myl  more  eastward  Sessin- 
illy  and  half  a  myle  from  that  is  Buchable.  547t 

Item  Mackorenstoun  is  a  myl  be  east  Buchable.  hard  by  is 
Murdachstoun  somwhat  be  west  the  former. 

Nixt  is  Balintoun.  Item  Burnbank.  Betwix  Balinton  and 
Burnbank  is  Coldoch. 

Be  north  Burnbank  half  a  myl  is  Balnagrew,  hard  by  is 
Spitteltoun,  and  be  north  half  a  myl  is  Makconstoun.  Nord- 
west  from  it  a  myl  is  Gartinkevyr 

Item  be  east  Burnbank  is  Tuggairt  with  a  burn  and  a  mill 
cuming  from  the  loch  of  Watstoun. 

Hard  by  is  the  kirk  of  Kincairn.  half  a  myl  East  therfra  Boir- 
land  and  hard  by  is  Torr  upon  Teith  from  Torr  1  myl  Loch- 
tertyrr  2  myl  be  east  Druyipfoord.  Item  Blackdubb  the  old 
way  whair  the  water  ran.  So  end  thois  on  the  South  of  Teith 


THE  NORTHSYD  of  TEITH  RIVER 

Loch  Bennachar.  Kilmahug  kirk.  Leny  kirk.  Kalendar 
kirk  and  tour. 

The  water  of  Garve  vijsk  meets  with  the  water  of  Teith 
above  the  kirk  and  place  of  Kalendar  half  a  myl.  Kalendar  is 
on  the  southsyd  of  Teeth.  A  myle  from  Kalendar  still  upon 
the  southsyd  of  Teeth  is  Grinok  with  the  burn  of  Alt  Whurr, 
a  myl  thence  N.  Torry  with  a  smal  burn.  Item  Ovir  Torry 
be  south  the  former  half  a  myl. 

2  myl  thence  Daldauran,  1  myl  thence  Lainrick  a  fair  castel 
of  Glenelgie  hard  upon  Teeth,  hard  by  is  Broich  a  myl  east 


612  TEITH 

is  Watstoun  half  a  myl  from  Teeth,  half  a  myl  therfra 
Deanstoun,  with  a  wood  and  crouves  for  salmond  fishing,  a 
quarter  myl  thence  the  brig  of  Doun. 

Be  east  the  bridge  is  Derrara  with  a  burn  and  Cowisky 
hard  by 

648.  This  marcheth  with  the  Strath  of  Menteth  agayn  where  we 
left  before.    These  upon  the  southsyd  of  Teth. 

NORTHSYD  of  TEETH. 

Leny  with  the  burn  of  Coryfoold,  the  old  Castell  of  Leny 
.  at  the  mouth  of  the  said  burn.  Item  Craigmoir  of  Kalendar, 
the  kirk  of  Kalendar  2  myl  Innerchailty,  this  burn  is  4  myl 
long. 

Item  the  uppermost  upon  Kailty,  betwix  that  and  the  brae 
of  Glen  Airtnay  is  Binchroin.  Item  Stew  Bakan  with  Bakan. 
Item  Glen  Shyro  be  west,  and  Stroin  Edernaig  2  myl  from  the 
former. 

Item  upon  the  head  of  Kailty  is  Drumbuy,  hard  by  is  Orb 
a  quarter  myl  be  east  the  head  of  Kailty  is  Wester  Brockland 
with  Easter  Brockland.  with  a  very  hollow  glen. 

A  myl  therfra  upon  the  westsyd  of  Kailty  Achalawich  and 
upon  the  eastsyd  Achaleshy.  foment  Achalawich 

Foment  Innerkailty  is  Cammez-moir  and  be  east  it  a  small 
wood  Calchaven  is  betwix  the  twa  Cammez  and  Gairt  with  a 
wood  be  west  Kailty. 

Nixt  Cammez-beg  1  myl  Cammez  moir 

A  myl  thence  Alden  Leacah  4  myl  long,  twa  myl  thence 
Kaillychat  with  a  great  burn  falling  out  of  the  mouth  of  Owa 
moir. 

A  myl  be  north  Kailly-chat  is  Heglis-Stinchenach,  and  2 
myle  be  east  that  Annets  standing  upon  the  head  of  the  burn 
of  Kailly  chat.  Twa  myl  furdir  is  Kaillintuy,  whilk  is  a  myl 
from  the  syd  of  Teeth. 

A  myl  furdir  nordeast  is  Cammez- Wallace. 

Half  a  myl  thence  the  burn  of  Cammez  falling  in  Teth 
hard  at  the  kirk  of  Kilmadok 

Heir  is  the  Park  of  Doun,  nixt  Doun  Newtooun 

649.  Foment  Innerallon  upon  the  mouth  of  Alloun  is  Cornetoune 


GLEN-GYLE— GLENFINGLAS  61 3 

A  myl  thence  is  Etthra,1  a  myl  thence  Cossburne.  Item  ther 
is  Aid  Whary  a  burn,  it  is  5  myl  long  cuming  down  from  the 
Green  ferret  be  east  Sherif  Moor,  the  uppermost  seat  on  this 
burn  is  called  Glenty.  A  myl  upon  the  southsyd  therof  is  the 
Park.  Item  Pendryich  be  west  it  Haifa  myl  the  standing 
stanes  in  Sherif  Moor,  a  myl  be  west  Coldhems,  2  myl  thence 
Kippen  Ros  upon  the  west  cheek  of  AldWhary  upon  a  myl. 
Drumadoul  from  Pendrick  half  myl  foment  Kippenross  upon 
Aid  Whary. 

SUMWHAT  of  GLEN-GYLE. 

As  you  go  down  the  south  Month  therof  the  uppermost 
seat  to  the  nordward  is  Achaduncriack  Marching  with  Bin- 
glash.  Item  there  is  Portinellen  foment  Yland  Meraoch 
2  myl  from  the  former.  Glen-cash  is  2  myl  long,  it  hath  on 
the  north  syd  Bhellach  Shanlarig.  The  uppermost  is  called 
Schelach  Chrombe  Item  the  ridge  of  the  month  betwix  this 
and  Glen  Maen  is  called  Stronavizairg. 


GLEN  MAEN 

The  uppermost  is  cald  Craigmenessich.  A  myl  thence 
Tassechuckary.  2  myl  thence  Corynachrich  al  thir  on  the 
north  of  Glen  Maen. 

Upon  the  southsyd  therof  is  Cory-Clach  %  myl  thence 
Craigna-Maddy.  a  myl  thence  Aeschnaclachdien. 

GLENFINGLAS. 

The  uppermost  is  LaggavanVinnich,  a  myle  thence  Tamna- 
banrie  a  myl  thence  Luirginraid  2  myl  thence  upon  the  ridge 
of  the  month  betwix  Glen  Maen  and  Glenfinglas  is  Boilnaif. 

Upon    the   southsyd   of  Glenfinglas  is  Keannaskie  2  myl  550. 
beneth  it  is  Dalcharry,  a  myl  thence  Dalnaif. 


'  Aithray  '  interlined  in  Macfarlane's  MS. — ED. 


614     PROVINCES  EDINBURGEN^E  DESCRIPTIO 

From  thrie  sheet  of  Paper  sticht  together 
marked  6  being  in  Sir  ROBERT  SIBBALDS 
Collection  of  Manuscripts  Now  in  Faculty 
of  Advocats  library. 

PROVINCE  EDINBURGEN.E  DESCRIPTIO. 

Provincia  Edinburgena,  vulgo  dicta  Lothiana  media,  (quae 
humanitatis  cultu,  et  ad  vitae  usum  necessariarum  rerum  copia, 
cseteras  hujusregni  provincias  longe  praecellit,)  in  longum  por- 
rigitur  a  declivitate  Inchbucklinensi,  quae  Mussilburgi  oppido 
paulo  est  orientalior,  occasum  hybernum  versus,  ultra  viginti 
millia  passuum,  usque  ad  Mulrani  rivulum,  qui,  ericeti  Calde- 
rensis  oram  occidentalem  perstringens,  Edinburgum  a  Lanarco 
disterminat.  Ejus  autem  latitude  admodum  est  insequalis,  si 
quidem  qua  in  ortum  aestivum  vergens  latissima  est  viz.  a 
dicta  declivitate,  ubi  fmitimam  habet  Lothianam  orientalem, 
per  octo  millia  passuum,  versus  occasum  solstitialem,  Almonis 
ostium  usque,  in  latum  procurrit ;  plus  minus  sedecim  millia 
551.  viz.  a  Forthae  aestuario,  meridiem  versus,  Twediae  praefecturam 
usque.  Qua  vero  occasum  hibernum  spectat,  per  passuum 
millia  tredecim  in  angustam  frontem  sese  coarctans,  trianguli 
paene  aequilateri  speciem  exhibet,  nisi  quod  versus  occasum 
hibernum  non  satis  exacte  sese  contrahat  in  angukim,  sed 
quandam  in  extremo  sinu  retineat  latitudinem,  nempe  bis 
mille  passuum.  Finitur  haec  provincia  ad  orientem  partim 
Hadina  seu  Lothiana  orientali  a  declivitate  Inchbucklinensi, 
juxta  Forthae  aestuarium,  meridiem  versus,  per  passuum  millia 
tredecim;  partim  Lauderiae  Ballivatu,  ultra  quatuor  millia: 
ad  meridiem  Tuediae  Vicecomitatu,  ab  Arcuagria  per  passuum 
millia  tredecim,  propemodum  ad  Dunsyri  limites  boreales : 
qua  ad  occasum  hibernum  vergit,  Lanarco,  per  passuum 
millia  septem,  quoad  Mulrani  rivulum  pertingat :  ad  occasum 
solstitialem  dicto  Lanarco,  a  dicto  Mulrani  rivulo  ad  montes 
Fallaios,  ultra  duo  millia  passuum :  ad  occasum  aestivum 
Lymnuchi  prsefectura  a  dictis  montibus  Fallaiis  ad  Almonis 
ostium,  ubi  in  Fortham  cadit,  fere  quatuordecim  millia 
passuum,  confinia  monstrante  ejusdem  Almonis  alveo  nisi 


PROVINCE:  EDINBUHGEVE  DESCRIPTIO   eis 

quod  amnis  ad  Lethemum,  Pomperstonam,  Holdusinum  utriiiiq, 
onentale  et  occidentale,  per  duo  millia  passuum,  relictis,  intra 
Lothianam  mediam  sibi  pandat  iter  :  denique,  qua  plagam 
septentrionalem  spectat,  Forth*  aestuario,  ah  Almonis  ostio 
Inchbuclinensem  declivitatem  usque  ad  fines  Lothian*- 
orientalis,  ultra  octo  millia  passuum.  Irrigatur  sex  amnibus: 
Almone,  Letha,  utroque  Eska,  qui  antequam  in  mare  cadant 
unum  coeunt  in  alveum,  Tina,  Gala.  Hi  partim  e  Lamyriis, 
partim  e  Pictlandicis  montibus  ad  provincial  oram  meridiona- 
lem  prominentibus,  in  Fortham  defluunt,  intra  eandeni  pro- 
vinciam  omnes  praeter  Tinam,  qui  in  Fortham  illabitur  juxta 
Tynighamiam  in  Lothiana  orientali,  et  Galam  qui  in  Tuedam 
cadit,  haud  longe  infra  Galaschelias  in  Selkerkensi  Praefectura. 
Almoni  fontem  et  originem  praestant  ericeti  capita  ad  extremes  S52. 
Glottianae  fines.  Ejus  alveus  ac  decursus  in  ortum  aestivum 
tendit  passuum  millia  quatuordecim,  quoad  in  Fortham  cadat, 
ad  Crammondam  inferioriem.  Magna  hicpiscium  fiuviatilium 
affluentia;  quin  et  salmonum  piscatu  nobilis  hie  amnis,  ab 
ipsius  ostio  per  tria  millia  passuum  sursum  ascendendo.  Id 
tamen  habet  incommodi,  quod  juxta  ostium  plus  minus 
quatuor  millia  passuum  humiliores  agros  et  sata  diluviis  suis 
inundans,  proximos  hinc  et  inde  accolas  multum  damnificet, 
praesertim  tempore  autumnali,  dum  eorum  segetes  vitiat,  aut 
recens  demessas  fruges  miro  quodam  impetu  in  Fortham 
rapit.  .Huic  amni  impositi  sunt  tres  pontes  lapidei :  unus 
trium  arcuum  ad  Cramondam  superiorem ;  alius  duorum 
arcuum  supra  Hallistonum  ;  tertius  unius  arcus  ad  Calderum  ; 
Insigniores  domus  et  arces  huic  amni  ab  occasu  aestivo  incu- 
bantes  sunt  Cavodunum  utrunque  orientale  et  occidentale, 
Liethemum  et  Pornpherstona.  Quibus  e  regione  in  altera  amnis 
ripa  respondent  Grandgium,  Alderstona,  Calderi  palatium, 
Elistonae  aula  cum  vico  cognomini,  Aulae  horti  vulgo 
Halyards,  Lenaium,  utraque  Cramonda,  superior  et  inferior. 
Almonem  suo  illapsu  augent  hi  minores  rivuli  Breighius, 
Killinghius,  Wyndhornius,  Austro-sylvius,  Gogarius.  Qui 
omnes  originem  trahunt  a  provincia  partibus  australioribus, 
in  unum  vero  alveum  cum  Almone  coeunt  ad  septentriones  et 
occasum1  aestivum.  Breighius  a  Mtilrano  defluit  orientem 

1  'occasum'  should  probably  be  read  as  'orientem.'— ED. 


616     PROVINCLE  EDINBURGEN.E  DESCRIPTIO 

aestivum  versus,  in  Edinburgi  et  Limnuchi  confinio,  quinque 
millia  passuum,  quoad  tandem  Almoni  se  adjungat  ad  Grand- 
gium.  Juxta  hunc  rivulum  sitas  domus  et  arces  insigniores  sunt 
Manusylvia,  Juncomontium,  Ericedomuri,  Adifontium,  Baidiae. 
Killinghius  ex  Ericeto  Carnwathensi  oriundus  in  Almonem 
devolvitur  supra  palatium  Caldarense,  haud  procul  a  Breighio. 
Rivulus  Cornuflexius  vulgo  Wyndhornius,  originem  trahens 
553  paulo  supra  Leporisylviam,  septentriones  versus  descendit, 
fere  quatuor  millia  passuum,  ad  Calderensis  sylvae  radices  et 
infra,  ubi  cum  Austrosylvio  in  unum  coit  alveum,  ut  simul  cum 
eo  paulo  inferius  in  Almonem  illabatur.  Propter  hunc 
rivulum  hinc  et  inde  sitae  domus  et  arces  insigniores  sunt 
Sylva  leporum,  Hermischeiliag,  Fraternia  vulgo.  Austrosylvius 
a  Garronsicko  (ubi  conterminae  sunt  tres  provinciae,  Lothiana, 
Glottiana,  Tuedia)  defluit  septentrionem  versus  tria  millia 
passuum,  usque  ad  australem  Calderi  pontem  paulo  infra 
svlvam  Calderensem,  ubi  in  Cornuflexium  sese  exonerat. 
Praecipuae  quae  hinc  rivulo  incubant  domus  et  arces  sunt 
Cataractria  vulgo  Linnehouse,  Corsetbornium,  Selmehum, 
Calderi  aula.  Duo  proxime  dicti  rivuli,  postquam  in  unum 
coierunt  alveum,  pontem  communem  patiuntur  paulo  infra 
coitionis  locum.  Gogarius  paulo  supra  Kirk  Nutonam  oriundus 
defluit  septentrionem  versus,  plus  minus  sex  millia  passuum, 
tamdemc^  a  pontibus  orientalibus  paulo  magis  ad  occidentem 
in  Almonem  devolvitur.  Huic  rivulo  ab  occidente  accubantes 
domus  et  arces  insigniores  sunt  Kirknutona,  Humbium, 
Haltona,  Aldistona,  Gogarum  Superius  cum  arce  cognomini, 
Quibus  ex  adverse  respondent  in  ripa  orientali,  villa  Dalma- 
hoiensis,  ad  saxosi  praecipitii  (quod  vulgo  Saxum  Dalmahoiense 
vocant)  radices  sita,  arx  Dalmahoiensis,  Waristona,  villa 
Hermistonensis  cum  arce  cognomini,  Rubrae  Fodinae,  vulgo 
Redhewes.  Gogarium  et  Austro-sylvium  interjacent  Mon- 
tona,  Corstaium,  Ormistona.  Eundem  Gogarium  et  Almonem 
interjacent  Pulchella,  Ratho,  Rathobubilia,  Nortona,  Inglis- 
tona.  Letha,  qui  ad  Karniae  montem  oritur,  postquam 
decem  millia  passuum  suo  decursu  emensus  est,  tandem  ad 
celebre  oppidum  cognomine,  ejusc^  portum  longe  celeberrimum, 
angustiam  omnem  quasi  vincula  declinans,  in  Forthas  aestua- 
rium  ultimum  detorquetcursum.  Huic  amni  incubant  quadra- 


PROVINCLE  EDINBURGEN.E  DESCRIPTIO     617 

ginta  tria  molendina  et  recens  erectum  manufactorium. 
Ejusdem1  orientalem  occupant  varise  domus,  arces  et  villae  viz:  654. 
Revilriggum,  Currihillum  cum  villa  cognomini,  Babertona, 
Stenopi-Molae,  Saughtonhallum,  Dena,  Innerletha  sive  Letha 
interior,  Waristona,  Pulchella  vulgo  Bonnetona,  Letha- 
borealis.  Quibus  e  regione  respondent  ab  oriente  Karnium, 
Bevellaium,  Ballenaium,  Lymphoium  utrumque  orientale  et 
occidentale,  Currium,  Killethum,  Aulusilvia,  Collintona,  Aula 
rubra,  villa  Gorghiensis  cum  mola  cognomini,  Dalrise  molae 
cum  arce  cognomini,  Ovilia,  Amnis  Lethae,  Cannomolae, 
Pilricum,  Pulchellae  molae,  Lethse  Oppidum.  In  Letham 
volvitur  ad  Pulveris  molam  exiguus  quidam  rivulus,  quern 
vulgo  Murraium  vocant  accolae:  ejus  fons  et  origo  paululum 
supra  Currimontium.  Huic  rivulo  accubant  Rickartona  et 
Saughtona.  Letham  et  Almonem  interjacent  Corstorphinium, 
Saughtona,  Curvisaxium,  Barontona,  Murraiae,  Piltona,  Lauris- 
tona  orientalis  et  occidentalis,  Sicca  Novalia,  Innerlethae 
rupes.  Australem  Forthae  ripam,  inter  Almonis  et  Lethae  ostia 
occupant  Cramonda,  utraque  Grantona,  orientalis  et  occiden- 
talis, vetus  Wyrdiae  castrum,  Novus  Portus,  ubi  nuper  con- 
stitutum  manufactorium  ad  rudentes  et  funes  omnigenos 
conficiendos.  ad  Dalkethensis  sylvae  radices  Esca  australis  in 
unum  coit  alveum  cum  boreali :  et  infra  duo  millia  passuum, 
ad  Pinkium  uterque  in  Fortham  cadit.  Communi  huic  alveo 
ab  occidente  incubant  Naltona,  Mons,  Montis  Aula,  Mons 
lapidum,  et  Vicus  piscatorius.  E  regione  vero  ab  oriente 
Smyttona,  Innerescae  vicus,  Mussilburgum,  Pinkium,  ubi  ultro 
citro^  commeantes  tramittuntur  ponte  lapideo  trium  arcuum. 
Esca  borealis  a  montibus  Penthlandicis  defluit  septentrionem 
versus,  plus  minus  novem  millia  passuum,  donee  ad  silvam 
Dalkethensem  cum  Esca  australi  conjungatur.  Huic  ab 
oriente  accubant  Ultramontium  vulgo  Utershillum,  Achin- 
denium,  Gortona,  Albaspinantria,  vel  Halthornedoune  Pal.  555. 
Ab  occidente  vero  Dalkethi  arx  cum  oppido  cognomini 
Grandgium,  Pennicockium,  Domosylviae-Novalia,  vulgo  Wood- 
houselie,  Roslinga,  Dradunum,  Lessuadum  Vicus,  Melvillum, 
Lugtona.  Eum  commeantibus  pervium  faciunt  tres  pontes 

1  '  ripam  '  occurs  here  in  the  original  from  which  Taitt  copied.— ED. 


618     PROVINCE  EDINBURGEN.E  DESCRIPTIO 

lapidei ;  unus  Dalkethi,  alter  Lessuadi,  tertius  Roslingae. 
Escam  borealem  et  Letham  inter  sunt  duo  rivuli  minores 
Figgatius  et  Metlandius,  qui  a  montibus  Pictlandicis  in  Forth  - 
am  deft  mint.  Figgatius,  inter  descendendum  septentrionem 
versus,  suo  alveo  perstringit  molas  Libbertonam,  Chartarias, 
Sacerdotis  campum.  Deinde  per  lacum  Duddistonensem 
placido  cursu  penetrans  recta  in  Fortham  pergit.  Metlandius, 
cujus  fons  et  origo  paululum  supra  montes  genistiferos, 
defluit  per  domum  lapideam  vulgo  Standhousium,  Parvani 
Franciam,  Niddriam,  Duddistonam  orientalem,  tandemque  in 
Fortham  se  devolvit,  a  vici  piscatorii  portu  paulo  magis  ad 
occasum  solstitialem.  Inter  Letham  et  Escam  borealem 
plurimse  sunt  memoratu  dignae  domus  et  nobilium  arces.  Et 
primum  quidem  inter  Letham  et  Figgatium,  sumpto  a  mon- 
tium  Pictlandicorum  radicibus  initio  et  continuato  septen- 
trionem versus  descensu  ad  Fortham  usque,  sunt  Cygnea  domus 
vulgo  Swanstona,  Comistona,  Rupes  Locarti  vulgo  Craig- 
lockartum,  Saxi  domus  vulgo  Craighussium,  Breda,  Aratri 
agellus,  Brunii  campus,  Grangium,  Monialium  Senensium  sedes 
Schynius  vulgo,  Lignariorum  domus,  Merchistona,  Campus 
Sacerdotis,  Dalria,  Ovilia,  Drumum,  Bruchtona,  Pilrigum, 
Restalrigum,  Duddistona,  Edinburgum  princeps  regni  civitas 
atque  unicum  hujus  provinciae  Burgum  regale,  ad  cujus  fines 
extremos  qua  scil.  ortum  et  occasum  solstitialem  spectat,  sitse 
sunt  Domus  Regia,  vulgo  Domus  Sanctse  Crucis,  ad  ortum,  et 
Civitatis  arx  superba  satis,  vulgo  Castrum  puellarum  ad 
occasum.  Infra  Edinburgum  mille  passus  ad  Lethae  ostium, 
556.  ubi  in  Fortham  devolvitur,  situm  est  Lethae  oppidum,  ubi 
navium  portus  celeberrimus  ac  frequentissimus,  quod  Edin- 
burgo  [sic].  Hoc  oppidum  non  ita  pridem  circumseptum  fossis, 
vallis,  pontibus  mobilibus  aliisq^  propugnaculis  omnifariis. 
Inter  Metlandium  rivulum  et  Figgattum,  sumpto  a  montibus 
unde  defluunt  initio,  et  facto  septentrionem  versus  descensu  ad 
Fortham  usque,  interjacent  Mortonensis  aula,  Domus  austri, 
Libbertona  superior  et  Inferior,  Insula,  Molitorum  rupes 
vulgo  Cragmillarum,  Niddria.  Inter  Metlandium  et  Escam 
borealem,  eodem  sumpto  initio,  et  similiter  continuato 
descensu,  sita  sunt  Penthlandium  vicus,  Stratona,  Murraiae, 
Gilmertona,  Dendragatha,  Drummum,  Comistona,  Lanaria, 


PROVINCIyE  EDINBUHGENVK  DESCRH'TIO 

Vicecomitis  aula,  vulgo  Shi  rreff  hall  urn,  Mons,  Brunstona, 
Albomontium.  Inter  montes  Pictlandicos  et  Escam  borealeni 
situm  habent  Spurcovadum,  Saltus  crucis,  Nov-aulia.  Esca 
australis,  a  Morpeti  montibus  defluens  septentrionem  versus, 
postquam  decem  millia  passuum  suo  decursu  emensus  est,  ad 
sylvam  Dalkethensem  cum  Esca  boreali  conjungitur.  Ei  ab 
oriente  accubant,  a  capite  amnis  sumpto  initio,  Morpetum, 
Malslia,  Eboracodomus,  Clerkintona,  Templum,  Arnistona, 
Schanka,  Cockpennum,  Stonflettum.  Quibus  ab  occidente 
respondent  Karintonae  vicus,  Dalhusium,  Neobotlia.  Huic 
amni  impositi  sunt  quatuor  pontes  lapidei ;  unus  infra  Dal- 
kethum,  alius  infra  Neobotliam,  tertius  ad  Neobotlire  caput, 
quart  us  ad  Dalhoussium.  Inter  Eskam  borealem  et  australem, 
priusquam  in  unum  coeunt  alveum,  ubi  exigua  tantum  distan- 
tia,  et  solum,  ut  plurimum,  satis  faecundum  frugibus,  doinus 
insigniores  sitae  sunt  juxta  amniuin  ripas  ut  ante  dictum, 
excepta  domo  Albomontana  quae  inter  dictos  amnes  pa?ne 
media  sedet  Carintona?  ex  adverse  respondens,  qua  Roslingani 
itur :  Garrus,  paulo  supra  Borthvici  castrum  originem  habens, 
defluit  occasum  versus,  quoad  in  Escam  australeni  cadat,  ad  557. 
angulum  Shankensem,  ubi  Shanka  ipsa  sedens,  utrius^  amnis 
Garri  et  Escae  amplum  et  amoenum  prospectum  habet.  Huic 
amni  accubantes  domus  insigniores  sunt  Halflakillum,  Borth- 
vici castrum,  Neobubilia,  Shanka.  Tina  paulo  supra  sylvam 
Crichtonensem  ortus,  orientem  aestivum  versus  descendit 
quatuor  millia  passuum  intra  hanc  provinciam ;  dein 
Lothianam  orientalem  recto  placidoc^  alveo  perstringit 
Tinnigamiam  usq^,  ubi  in  Fortham  labitur.  Huic  ab  oriente 
accubant  intra  Lothianam  mediam,  Crichtonae  casti-urn,, 
Vadum,  Cranstona  superior,  Prestona  Minor:  quibus  ex 
adverse  respondent  ab  occidente  Lacuquaretum,  Hagbunaum, 
Vogrium,  Cranstona  inferior.  Inter  Tinam  et  Escam 
australem,  descendendo  septentrionem  versus,  pr^ciptui- 
domus  sunt  Stobomontium,  Austrilatus;  domus  ad  occasum 
Mastertona,  Bryanum ;  domus  ad  ortum  Ovilia,  For- 
dellum,  Latus  longum,  Carberrium,  Couslandum,  Vallivadium. 
Inter  Tinas  ripam  orientalem  et  fines  Lothiame  orientalis, 
sedes  suas  sortiuntur  Crichtona  utrac^  oriental  is  et  occidentalis, 
Versimuri,  Corstorphinum,  Fallaum  vicus,  cum  arc?  cogno- 


620     PROVINCLE  EDINBURGEN.E  DESCRIPTIO 

mini,  Saughneilum,  Cakmurum.  Inter  omnes  quibus  hsec 
provincia  irrigatur  amnes,  meridiem  versus  suo  cursu  tendit 
solus  Gala :  cujus  origo  ad  niontem  Fallaium,  unde  defluit  per 
sex  millia  passuum  intra  hanc  provinciam,  deinde  Tuediam 
subintrat  et  in  Tuedam  volvitur  ad  Bolsydum  in  Tuediae  pro- 
vincia. Huic  amni  ab  occidente  accubant  Fallamontium, 
Herioti  domicilium,  Haltria,  Arcuagria.  Quibus  ab  oriente 
respondent  e  regione  Castleferrium,  Cruckstona,  Hopringlium, 
Stoutona,  Torsoncium.  Unicum  hujus  provincial  burgum  est 
Edinburgum,  siquidem  Dalkethum,  Mussilburgum  &c  emporia 
tantum  sunt,  non  burga  regalia.  Arx  Edinburgensis  qua  loci 
natura,  qua  hominum  arte  et  industria,  per  quam  munitissima 
est  quippe  sita  in  summitate  rupis  ingentis,  prsealtae  et 
638.  laterum  paene  perpendicular!  acclivitate  undiquaque  inaccessa 
nisi  quod,  prout  exigit  natura  rei,  a  civitate  unus  in  earn 
pateat  angustus  et  acclivis  aditus ;  qui  partim  muris  prevalidis 
hinc  et  inde  extructis,  partim  triplis  foribus,  extimis,  mediis, 
intimis,  partim  pontibus  pensilibus,  aliisc^  munimentis  neces- 
sariis,  abunde  fortificatus  est.  Insuper,  inter  omnes  nobilium 
arces  domusq^  magnitudine  et  amplitudine  insigniores,  quas 
ha?c  provincia  suo  claudit  ambitu  principatum  facile  obtinet 
domus  et  arx  Dalkethensis  ad  Balcleuchiae  Comitem  pertinens 
in  eoque  angulo  sita  quern  claudunt  Escarum  amnes  in  se 
mutuo  inclinantes,  et  in  unum  coeuntes  alveum.  Huic  adhaeret 
spatiosum  nemus  cum  pascuis  circumseptis,  iisc^  satis  amplis  et 
amcenis,  ubi  cervorum  copia.  Neobotliag  domus  structural  boni- 
tate  et  situs  amoenitate  inter  primas  reponenda.  Ei  adhaerent 
septa  pascua,  ubi  etiam  visuntur  cervi.  Castrum  Dalhoussiense 
amplum  est  et  bene  munitum,  scilicet  pinnato  muro  politioris 
operis  circundatum,  extructa  etiam  ad  quemque  angulum  turri 
valida.  Borthvici  castrum  turn's  est  magna,  valida,  ingentis 
altitudinis.  estque  totum,  quantum  est,  intus  et  extra,  operis 
etiam  politioris;  ejus  parietes  ultra  quindecim  pedes  crassi. 
Ad  turn's  fundamenta,  sponte  sua  scaturit  fons  praecellens  ab 
fossura.  Estque  ibidem  domus  fenestris  bene  illustrata,  aliisq^ 
requisitis  ad  habitandum  satis  accomodata.  Crichtonae  castrum 
domus  est  fabricae  bonae  ac  validae  ;  ejus  situs  baud  inamcenus  : 
annexa  enim  habet  nemus  et  septa  pascua.  Calderi  palatium 
domus  est  magna  et  ampla,  super  collem  satis  amrene  sita, 


PROVINCE  EDINBURGEN.E  DESCRIFTIO    621 

undiquaq^  rivulis  circundata.  Ei  ab  austro  adhwret  sylva 
spatiosa  unde  prospicere  licet  in  pulchram  planitiem  octo 
millia  passuum  longam,  occasum  solstitialem  versus.  Hal 
tonae  domus  est  multae  fortitudinis  et  borne  structure  ac 
politioris  operis,  estque  muro  mantelino  circumdata.  Hie 
silentio  praetereunda  non  est  Roslinga,  quse  ad  borealis  Escse 
marginem  in  loco  voluptatis  pleno,  praeruptae  rupis  summita-  55!). 
tern  occupat,  suaviter  praeterlabentis  fluminis  amoenitate  ac 
jucundo  nemorum  circumcirca  jacentium  prospectu  gestiens. 
Nullus  in  earn  patet  aditus,  nisi  per  pontem  pensilem  a  summa 
et  rape  et  domo  (eadem  enim  est  utriusc^  summitas)  ad 
extremum  finem  Roslingii  pontis  porrectum.  Intrinsecum 
domus  habitum  quod  attinet,  omnes  ejus  cameras,  divisiones, 
domunculse,  et  quibus  ad  singulas  descenditur,  scalae  ex  rupe 
solida  sunt  excisae,  adeo  ut  unaquaeque  camera  seu  domuncuk 
uno  constet  lapide.  Roslingae  sacellum  inter  omnes  hujus 
regni  fabricas  lapideas  maxima  elaboratum  est  accuratione,  ut 
nusquam  fere  visu  pulchrius  aut  exquisitioris  artificii  opus  in 
lapide  factum  invenias.  Haud  procul  a  Roslinga,  sed  paulo 
magis  ad  orientem,  Spinarum  antro  incubat  caverna  bene 
magna  in  tres  divisa  domunculas,  alias  aliis  interiores,  ad 
quam  unicus  patet  aditus,  isque  adeo  angustus  ut  vix  tabulam 
latitudine  excedat.  Hunc  ultro  citroque  transcendentibus  for- 
midinem  quandam  et  nonnunquam  etiam  capitis  vertiginem 
incutit  amnis  subterlabens,  ad  100  ulnarum  distantiam,  (jiii 
rupis  cavernam  contineritis  radicem  suo  lambit  alveo.  Prope 
Libbertonae  templum,  sed  magis  ad  meridiem,  ad  sacellum  S. 
Catharinse  scaturit  fons  memoratu  dignus,  quod  cum  ipsius 
aquis  mane  bulliat  oleum  vel  potius  balsamum  quoddam  vis- 
cosum  et  pingue.  Id  per  decem  [menses]  anni  legunt  et  con- 
servant  vicinorum  agrorum  domini :  est  enim  medicamentum 
solenne  luxationibus,  inflammationibus,  pulsationibus,  ustioni- 
bus,  contusionibus,  compressionibus,  aliisque  variis  morbis 
curandis  inserviens.  Haec  provincia  duo  complectitur  Pres- 
byteria,  Edinburgense  et  Dalkethense.  Presbyterium  Edin- 
burgense  constituunt  parochiae  sequentes  viz.  sex  intra 
Edinburgum  ipsum,  quibus  rem  divinam  faciendo  deserviunt 
Pastores  duodecim  ;  dein  viae  Canonicae  vel  si  mavis  Coenobium 
Sanctae  Crucis  Parochia ;  et  duodecim  [sic]  Parochiae  rurales, 


622     PROVINCLK  EDINBURGEN.E  DESCRIPTIO 

nimirum    Austro  -  Letheusis,    Septentrio  -  Lethensis,    Duddi- 

560.  stonensis,  Libbertonensis,  Divi  Cuthberti,  Halliensis,  Corstor- 
phinensis,  Cramondensis,  Curriensis,  Rathoensis,  KirkNewto- 
nensis.     Dalkethense    Presbyterium    ex    quindecim    coalescit 
Parochiis,   quae    sunt   hae ;    Innereskensis,    Naltonensis,    Dal- 
kethensis,   Lessuadensis,    Glencorsensis,   Pennicokensis,    Neo- 
botliensis,   Cocpennensis,    Carintonensis,   Templensis.    Herio- 
tensis,  Borthvicensis,  Crichtonensis,  Cranstoiiensis,  Falaensis. 
Porro  praeter  enumeratas  parochias,  hujus  provinciae  amplexu 
comprehenduntur    liae    quatuor;    Calderclarensis,    Calderensis 
utraq^  orientalis  et  occidentalis,  Stoboensis ;  quarum  postrema 
ad  Erslingtonense,  reliquae  tres  ad  Limnuchense  Presbyterium 
pertinent.       Haec    provincia    omnibus    ad    incolarum    usum 
necessariis  sibi  sufficiens  est,  frugibus  enim  abundat  omnifariis 
ut   tritico,  siligine,  hordeo,  avena  &c.  suis  etiam  non  vacat 
pascuis,   septis   et    pratis,    quibus    praeter    ovium    greges    ac 
jumentorum  armenta  ad  agrorum  cultum  necessaria  et  vita 
usum,  plurimos  alit  equos  clitellarios  quotidiano  commeatui, 
esculento  potulento  et  focali,  ab  oppidis,  pagis  et  villis  vicinis 
Edinburgum  invehendo  destinatos;  quorum  etiam  bajulis  et 
vectoribus  Lethensibus  et  Edinburgensibus  usus  frequentissimus 
invehendis   et  trahendis  a  Letha  ad   Edinburgum    mercibus 
omnigenis  man  importatis,  quod  civitas  Edinburgi  ultra  mille 
passus  a  portu  Lethensi,  quo  pro  suo  utitur,  dissita  sit.     Hujus 
provinciae  montes  insigniores  sunt  primum  montes  Pictlandici, 
(jui  in  longum  tractum  procurrentes,  ab  ortu  ad  occasum  in 
Australioribus    provinciae    partibus    prominent,    dein    Nigelli 
rupes,    Corstorphinensis.      Omnium    autem    maxime   celebres 
sunt  mons  Salisberiensis,  eic^  incubans  Arthuri  Sedes  prope 
Crucciam,  vel  si  mavis  cum  vulgo  S.  Crucis  Coenobium  pro- 
minentes  intra  septa  Regia,  quae  Jacobus  Quintusmuro  lapideo 
ultra  quatuor  millia  passuum  in  circuitu  circundari  princeps 
curavit  in  usum  sui  palatii  vicini  ad  dictam  Crucciam  ;  abundat 
etiam  haec  provincia  passim  calcis  et  carbonum  fodinis,  estque 

561.  mediocriter  arboribus  consita,  praesertim  circa  nobilium  arces 
et     generosiorum     incolarum     domicilia.       Denique     nemora 
habet  amoenitatis  plena,  Dalkethense,  Neobotliense,  Dalhous- 
siense,  Crichtonense,  Roslingense,  Calderense,  Shankense. 


EDINBURGI  DESCRIPTIO  623 

EDINBURGI  DESCRIPTIO 

Metropolis  regni  nostri   antiquissimis  indigenis  dicta  fuit 
Agneda,  »ve  Ageda,  sive  Agmeda  voce  composfta,  qua,  tantut 
dem  valet  ac  Rupes  alata.     Nam  Agne,  vel  Age,  sive  A  «J est 
rupes  a  Gr.co  M  a^  vel  ^f^i^™^^ 
j*  ay/m  passim  vetenbus  sunt  loca  fragosa,  et  Agneu  apud  nos 
m    Novantibus  est  locus  fragosus,  unde  est   nomen  familias 
obihs.     Ongo  est  a7o>  sive  dyvvco  frango,  rumpo,  a  quo  apud 
|08  Ag,  et  cum  aspiratione  crassiore  Hag,  rumpere,  in  frusta 
dividere.     Altera  pars  compositionis  est  Eda  sive  Eta    quae 
vox  notat  alam,  pennam  priscis  a  nostris.     Hujus  ori<r0  est 
ab  Hebraeo  rro  Ata  tego,  obumbro,  operio :  scimus  alas  sive 
nnas   avium    esse   tegumenta.      Britannicis    VVallis    etiam 
hodie  arx  nostra  vocatur  Myned  agned  i.e.  eminens  sive  alta 
rupes   alata.       Mined  autem    est   eminens,   altum,   a   Gr^co 
li&vm  maneo.      Hoc  ab2  }OK  aman,  constans.      Deinde  prisci 
nostri    boreales     loco    T«    agned    dicere    maluerunt   Duned, 
ponentes  Dun  pro  agne,  quae  voces  idem  notant;    et  adjecta 
syllaba  en  vel  in  servili  fecerunt  Duneden.     Ha>c  vcro  sjllaba 
en  solet  frequenter  apud  nos  adjici   nominibus  locorum,  ut 
hie,  et  compositis  interseri  ut  Ballendalloch   pro  Balldalloch 
&c.     Latini  Scriptores  pro  Duneden  levi  metathesi  fecerunt 
Edinodunum.     Nuperi   Germani  Scriptores  pro  Edinodunum 
dixerunt     Edinburgum.      Germani    enim     vocant     montem,  • 
collem,  rupem  burg  vel  berg  a  voce  Grseca,  Trvpyos.      Haec 
vox  venit  a  Chaldaica  voce 2  nns  parach,  crescere :  sunt  enim 
montes  excrescentiae  terras.      Hse  voces   significatione  secun- 
daria    tantum    denotant   aedes    editas,    molem    aedium,   quas 
vulgo  turres  vocant.      Et  "HD  tour  sive  "IW  tsour  est   rupes, 
saxum.     Hinc  vox  ster  Saxonibus  est  rupes  et  Graecis  areppov  66S. 
firmum,   durum    instar   rupis.     Quare  nugantur  Monachi    et 
eorum    sequaces   qui    scribunt   locum    hunc   nostrum   habere 
nomen  ab  Edwino   vel  Ethino   nescio   quo   Pictorum    Rege. 
GalH    hanc  urbem  vocitare  solebant   L'aileburg   quasi    dicas 
Burgum  alatum,  nam  aile  est  ala;  sed  vulgus  Gallorum  male 
pronunciat  Lisleburg.  Ptolomasus  vocat  locum  hunc  a-rparo- 
trebov  TTTepwrov,  castrum  alatum,  ubique  ab  eadem   ratione, 
non  quod  arx  vel  castrum  habere  alas  censeatur  cujusmodi 

1  See  footnote  on  p.  640. 

2  Blank  in  Macfarlane ;  filled  in  from  the  Buchanan  MS.  —  KD. 


624  EDINBURGI  DESCRIPTIO 

architecti,  docente  Vitruvio,  vocant  Trrepa^ara  quae  sunt  muri 
gemini  ita  surgentes  in  altitudinem  ut  alarum  speciem  prae  se 
ferant ;  nee  quod  alae  equitum  illic  locatae  sint,  cum  ex  anti- 
quissimo  nomine  manifestum  sit  rupem  sic  vocatam,  antequam 
ulli  super  ea  ejusmodi  muri  erecti,  si  unquam,  et  longe 
antequam  ullse  alae  equitum  illic  locatae  essent,  si  unquam 
fuerint.  Quare  aliunde  est  petenda  nominis  ratio,  nimirum 
ab  ipsa  natura,  quae  rationem  clare  suppeditat :  Duo  enim 
colles  vicini  huic  rupi  nostrae,  super  qua  sita  est  arx  (rupes 
puta  Sarisburii  et  rupes  Nigelli  sic  dictae  a  quondam 
dominis)  prae  se  ferunt  quodammodo  alarum  speciem,  quod 
aperte  notare  poteris  quando  venis  ab  ortu  hiberno  juxta 
littus  maris  Edinburgum :  tune  enim  hae  praedictae  rupes 
apparent  instar  alarum,  et  rupes  cum  arce  sua  instar  capitis 
avis  habentis  cristam.  Et  haec  est  genuina  nominis  ratio. 
Rupi  Sarisburii  inest  cacumen,  quod  vulgo  vocatur  sedes 
Arthuri ;  nam  nos  omnia  magna  attribuimus  Arturo  illi  nostro 
celebri  Britanno ;  ab  eo  etiam  multi  adulatores  repetunt 
origines  familiarum  plurimas  nobilium  nostratium,  ut  olim 
Graeci  fabulatores  referebant  ad  suum  Herculem  genus  mul- 
tarum  familiarum,  et  ei  attribuebant  omnia  magna.  Caeterum 
monachi  nostri,  qui  currente  manu  scribebant,  pro  castrum 
alatum,  castrum  alarum  legentes  ignari,  cum  nescirent  rationem 
563.  cur  castrum  dici  poterat  alatum,  vel  alarum,  putarunt  legi 
debere  Puellarum.  Et  deinde  ad  fulciendum  errorem,  invene- 
runt  fabulam  de  virginibus  nobilium  Pictorum  illic  custodiri 
solitis,  donee  nuptum  darentur.  Denique  vulgus  nostrum  ab 
antique  tempore  quum  audirent  castrum  illud  priscis  vocatum 
Mined  Castle,  putarunt  esse  Maiden  Castle.  Ansam  error! 
vulgi  praebuit  fabula  haec  monachorum.  Quod  ad  antiquita- 
tem  arcis  nostrae  attinet,  in  praesens  satis  nobis  sit  earn  repetere 
a  tempore  Antonini,  sub  quo  floruit  Ptolomaeus  i.e.  a  medio 
secundi  saeculi  post  Christum  natum,  licet  procul  omni  dubio 
longe  majoris  sit  antiquitatis.  Novi  esse  quosdam,  eosc^  non 
indoctos,  qui  o-rparoTreSoi'  7rrepa)rov  Ptolomaei  esse  in  diversa 
regionis  parte  volunt  et  non  esse  Edinodunum,  cum  Ptolo- 
maeus o-TparoTreSov  suum  statuat  inter  Vaccomages.  Ignoscen- 
dum  certe  Ptolomeo,  cum  errat  in  positu  locorum,  quippe  qui 
peregrinus,  isque  adeo  a  nobis  remotus  :  erat  enim  natione 


EDINBURGI  DESCRIPTIO  625 

^Egyptius  degens  Alexandria.  Quare  aliorum  relationem  et 
fidem  hoc  in  negotio  sequi  coactus  :  itaque  non  mirum,  si 
saepius  labitur.  Rupes  vero,  super  qua  arx  est  sita,  ab  austro, 
occasu  et  borea.  est  praerupta :  itaque  arx  ab  his  rupis  lateri- 
bus  est  omnino  inaccessa ;  ab  ortu,  unde  est  introitus  arc-is, 
rupes  habet  lentum  clivum.  Hoc  latus  arcis  loricis  et  muris 
spississimis  est  munitum.  super  hoc  clivo  condita  est  urbs,  non 
unica  die  certe;  nam  primum  vicini  construxerunt  pauculas 
domos  prope  arcem,  ut  sub  ejus  umbra  tutiores  essent  ab 
hostium  injuriis.  Ita  paulatim,  crescente  hominum  multitu- 
dine,  numerus  domuum  excrevit  ab  arce  ad  imum  extremuni 
clivi ;  ortum  versus,  per  mille  fere  passus,  nunc  si  comprehendas 
Canonicorum  suburbia.  Utrumc^  latus  clivi  a  supercilio  ad 
imum  sublimibus  vestitur  aedificiis,  longa  serie  per  medium 
clivi ;  relicta  platea  ampla  ab  uno  extreme  ad  alterum. 
Cseterum  aedificia  distinguuntur  per  vicos  et  clausuras,  qui  vici 
ornnes  fere  sunt  angusti ;  ita  sibi  invicem  sunt  propinquae  aedes 
ut  vix  illis  sit  aer  liber;  et  hac  in  parte  sibi  mutuo  nocent.  664. 
Nescio  an  ullibi  in  tarn  angusto  spatio,  tot  aedes,  tantumcj^ 
hominum  numerum  ac  in  hac  urbe  nostra  reperias.  Duo  sunt 
praecipue,  quae  nuperis  diebus  fecerunt  hanc  urbem  in  earn 
crescere  magnitudinem,  quam  hodie  vides.  Primum  quod  ab 
ultimis  aetatibus  Reges  nostri  diutius  hie  commorari  soliti  sunt 
quam  alibi.  Deinde  novissimo  saeculo,  cura  Jacobi  Quinti  hie 
est  forum  statum  supremi  senatus  totius  Regni,  quum  antea 
esset  deambulatorium,  prout  olim  apud  Gallos  ejusmodi 
mutatio  facta  est,  quorum  exemplum  Rex  noster  hac  in  re 
sequutus  est ;  olim  clivus  hie,  super  quo  urbs  est  condita  habebat 
a  latere  boreali,  et  hodie  etiam  habet  stagnum  quod  vulgo 
Lacus  borealis  audit.  A  clivi  latere  australi  erat  itidem 
stagnum  quod  dicebatur  Lacus  Australis.  Hi  duo  lacus 
terminabant  urbem  a  duobus  lateribus,  ut  etiamnum  Lacus 
borealis  facit  terminum  a  borea.  Lacus  autem  australis  altero 
ab  hoc  saeculo  desiccatus  est,et  ubi  ejus  erant  ripae,  sunt  series 
sedium  ab  ortu  in  occasum,  inter  quas  protenditur,  ubi  erat 
Lacus  ipse,  Platea  vaccina,  sive  bourn.  Atque  sic  versus 
austrum  perductum  est  in  latitudinem  pomrerium  urbis 
multum  ultra  antiquum  terminum,  et  in  longitudinem  versus 
occasum.  Nam  hodie  forum  gramineum  et  forum  equorum  est 

£)   „ 

VOL.  II. 


EDINBURGI  DESCRIP. 


t  adeo 

>.-ot:  eaisi 


.   pato  porra  AM  &V>  or:.:.  ... 


Areas  Inferior,  quod  sit  in  deciivi  platea?  urbis  primaria 
altar  plate*;   strand*  est  porta  Plate* 

^i  !*>>.'*•     ,!...•£.      >-!!.*     1  ~  .  ..I  c  111     iK'TT-'i   I      ^1  --  AT"fcIl 

Fbrta  Via   Figularam,  secunda  est   Fort*.  Societatis,  puta 
Quito    est    Porta    occidental^.      Arx    & 
culto  et  reparato  fait,  et  loricis  ad  ortum 
Est  in  uii>c  ana  «ana  Basilic*,    uarhodie  in  tit^s 

::  .•_::.  :.:: 

distioctas  panxoas.     Prope 
:  est  FklatHm  vu^o  do«iB  PartiaMenti,  ubi  «»- 
tres  regni  ofdines  coosultim  de  regni  aiduis,  ubi  etiam 
coavenit  KBilir   ad  jus  populo  dioendura;  austrum  Tt 
est 


Herioti  afiindatore. 
Son  procul  ab  hoc  Hospitio,  ortum  versus,  est  Templum 
Fratrum  Gnsiomnu  a  mitto  oolore  nomen  habentiunv,  ubi  est 

Ab  Aostro 


Boat  ea,  est  nova  Sacra  -fides  Aisteria  dicta,  constructa 
novissime  somptibus  Domin*  de  Aister.  Hanc  prope  est 
in  qua  fitene  humaniores  docentur.  Ad  latus 
alt*  est  magnifies,  nova  Aedes 

rds  desinit,  et  otagna  platea  incipi  t ;  vulgo  vocatur 
LJbne.     A  latere  boreah  •nagBS'   Baiahc*  et  prope 
Career  pubticns,  ubi  eat  antiqaum  Tekmium.     I 
est  in  saedio  plate*  saagnjc,  ad  quam  omnia 

palam  fieri.     Ab  aicu  inferiore 


In  hac  platea  abaustro 


Kl)INHrU(iI    I)i;s<  lUI'TK) 

is    diebutj    rst   iMiin,    platea    base   Gtaonioormn   .-t    Hi 

iu  urbis  intra,  ft  propius  Abbiitiam  est,  alia  (  ,-..\  nvrla, 
vulgo    Crux     prairinl.iira-    VOCfttUP,    (jiii.-i    infrr    ,.;,,„    ,.|' 
Abbatiarn,  certuin  spatium  pn.-dngitur,  (|iio,|  <>|jm  foterviebftl 
pro    Asylo    iis    (|ui    in    piiblimm    prndirr    nun    audrrrnt    pr:i- 
rioore  juris,  sivv  summi  Juris  injuria.      Abbatia  jam   in  tlioi 
conversa  est  usus  al>  nlt.cro  saviilo  :   nam  il,i  est  cl'c^.ns   I{r,rjs 
palatium    a  Jacolx)   (,)ui.it.o    a-dificatum,   licet    opus    non    sit 
absolutum.      Donius  Cjinoiiicorum  inserviunt  Aulicis.     Ihj  (-st 
^Edes  sacra  elegantis  ad  mod  urn  structurae,  sed  .-x  partc  dimta. 
Ab  austral!  latere  platen  Canonicfc,  non  procul  a  Cruce  puhl : 
sunt   horti    cum    wdibus   Comitis    Moravia?  tanta   elcn.,,,i 
tantaque  industria  culti,  ut  facile  provocent  hoi  tos  calidiorum 
regionum,  imo   fere   ipsius   Anglic.      Et   hie  videre  potdi 
quantum  ars  et  industria  humana  valeant  in  supplrndis  ipsin> 
naturae    defectibus :    vix    ullus   credat   in   frigidis   regionibus 
ejusmodi  hortorum  amcEnitatem  posse  dari.     Sed  ut  rc-dcam  ad 
Arctim    infcriorem    urbis ;    ab   eo   versus    boream    est   vims 
declivis,    vulgo   dictus  Clivus  Lethtc  quia   per  eum  itur  ad 
Letham.      Ad  imum    hujus    vici    est  porta,   juxta  quam   « 
Templum  satis  pulchrum,  vulgo  dictum  Tcmplum  Collegii,  a 
Collegio  Canonicorum,  qui  ibi  tempore  superstitionis  Romana 
sacris  rebus  vacabant.     Extructum  erat  hoc  Templum  a  \  idua 
Jacob!    Tertii.    Notare   singula   tcmporum    momenta   (juibiis 
haec  Urbs  incrementa  habuit  eta  quihus  I'rincipibus  privih-gia 
auctione  hac  obtinuit,  non  habeo  in  praesens  dicere.     1'olitia 
urbis  administrate  per  Praefectum,  cjui   ab  aliquo   tempore 
quotannis  eligitur  ex  numero  civium,  cum  pritis  unusex  vicini-> 
nobilibus  eum  magistratum  gerere  solebat.     Praefectus  Asses- 
sores  habet  Ex-praefectum  et  quatuor  Scabinos,  quos  Bali\ 
vocant,  et  hi  itidem  singulis  annis  eliguntur  e  numero  honc.sti- 
orum  civium.     Interdum   magistratus  Pra;fecti  et  Halivoruin 
prorogatur  ultra  annum.       Subtirbium  Platese  Canonical  < 
sub  Praefectura  Praefecti   Urbis,  a  qua  recipit  Halivum   cum 
Scriba  sive  Registri  Custode.1     Suburbium  extra  Portam  occi- 
dentalem  etiam  suum  habet  Balivum.     Tota  civita?>  c(jmpr«-- 

1  Macfarlane's  transcriber  has  here  omitted  the  following  sentence :  — L; 
itidem  Letha  etiam  a  nupero  tempore  est  sub  prsefectura  Edinburgi,  quae  singulis 
quoque  annis  ei  dat  Balivos  cum  Registri  Custode.— ED. 


628  TKANSLATION  :  SHIRE  OF  EDINBURGH 

hendit  sub  se  non  solum  Urbem  intra  mcenia,  sed  duo 
nominatim  suburbia  maxima,  puta  suburbium  extra  portam 
quae  spectat  occasum,  et  plateae  Canonicae,  atque  Letham. 
Edinburgum  est  apud  nos  nobilissimum  emporium,  ubi  non 
solum  merces  domesticae  vicinis  divenduntur,  sed  etiam  exterae 
merces  et  importatae  una  cum  domesticis  per  totum  regnum 
distrahuntur.  Tota  ci vitas  subdividitur  in  octo  pagos  sive 
vicinias,  quae  vulgo  vocantur  Quarter!  civitatis.  In  quoquam 
Pago  sive  Quartero  juventus  suum  habet  Ducem  sive  Capi- 
taneum,  Ducis  Legatum  et  Aritesignanum,  quorum  ductum  in 
armis  sequuntur.  Letha  est  sita  ad  ostium  amnis  synonymi ; 
ab  utroc^  ejus  latere  ita  in  duos  pagos  dividitur,  qui  conjun- 
guntur  ponte  lapideo  super  amne ;  uterque  pagus  suam  habet 
^Edem  Sacram.  Est  tan  turn  imum  Telonium  et  publicus 
career  unus  inserviens  utric^  et  publica  sch.ola  una.  Est  Portus 
in  ipso  ostio  amnis,  ut  commodissimus  ita  omnium  apud  nos 
nobilissimus.  Ab  ambobus  ostii  lateribus  sunt  pilae  procur- 
rentes  in  mare,  extructae  ex  sublicis  solo  infixis,  quas  trans- 
versae  trabes  frequenter  conj  ungunt.  Inter  sublicas  sive  palos  et 
trabium  transversa  ligna  injecti  sunt  lapides  ingentes,  quibus 
totum  spatium  inter  palos  usque  ad  summum  impletur,  quod 
tabulis  operiri  solet :  atque  ita  tota  moles  pilae  conn'citur. 
Pila  a  latere  orientali  ostii  est  longe  major  altera;  ideo  vulgo 
KCLT  e^o-^rjv  Pila  Lethae  dicitur.  Letha  identidem  et  tempore 
belli  vallo  sive  muro  cespititio  circundatur,  quern  tempore 
pacis  diruunt  incolae,  ne  urbem  occupent  prsesidiarii  milites, 
qui  solent  in  locis  munitis  obesse  mercaturam  exercentibus. 


The  following  is  a  translation  into  English  of  the 
Descriptions  of  the  Shire  and  City  of  Edinburgh. 
Some  remarks  on  these  Descriptions  are  given 
in  the  Preface. 

A  DESCRIPTION  of  the  SHIRE  of  EDINBURGH. 

The  Shire  of  Edinburgh,  commonly  called  Mid-Lothian  (which  far 
surpasses  the  other  shires  of  this  kingdom  in  the  refinements  of  civilisa- 


TRANSLATION:  SHIRE  OF  EDINBURGH          629 

tiou,  and  in  the  abundance  of  the  necessaries  of  life)  extends  in  length 
from  Inchbucklin  Brae,  which  is  a  little  further  east  than  the  town  of 
Musselburgh,  towards  the  south-west  for  more  than  twenty  miles  to  the 
Muldron  burn,  which  skirts  the  western  border  of  the  ('aider  Moor  and 
separates  Edinburgh  from  Lanark.  But  its  breadth  is  very  unequal, 
since  from  the  point  where  it  is  broadest,  as  it  stretches  towards  the 
north-east,  namely  from  the  said  brae  where  it  has  East  Lothian  as  its 
boundary,  it  runs  in  breadth  for  eight  miles  north-west  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Almond,  and  for  sixteen  miles  more  or  less  towards  the  south, 
namely  from  the  Frith  of  Forth  to  the  Shire  of  Tweeddale.  Where  it 
inclines  to  the  south-west  it  is  confined  with  a  narrow  front  of  thirteen 
miles,  and  almost  presents  the  appearance  of  an  equilateral  triangle, 
except  that  towards  the  south-west  it  is  not  quite  contracted  to  an  angle, 
but  at  its  farthest  corner  it  still  has  a  certain  width,  namely  two  miles. 
This  shire  is  bounded  on  the  east  partly  by  Hadina  or  East  Lothian 
from  Inchbucklin  Brae  near  the  Frith  of  Forth  southward  for  thirteen 
miles,  partly  by  the  Bailiery  of  Lauderdale  for  more  than  four  miles  ; 
on  the  south  by  the  Sheriffdom  of  Tweeddale  from  Arcuagria  [Rowland] 
for  thirteen  miles,  almost  to  the  northern  limits  of  Dunsyre ;  where  it 
inclines  to  the  south-west,  by  Lanark  for  seven  miles  till  it  reaches  the 
Muldron  Burn  ;  on  the  south-west  by  the  said  Muldron  Burn  to  the 
Fauldhouse  Hills  for  more  than  two  miles  ;  on  the  north-west  by  Lin- 
lithgowshire  from  the  said  Fauldhouse  Hills  to  the  mouth  of  the  Almond, 
where  it  flows  into  the  Forth,  for  almost  fourteen  miles,  the  channel  of 
the  Almond  also  marking  its  boundary,  save  that  at  Lethem,  Pumpher- 
ston,  and  the  two  Holdusinums  [Howdens]  Easter  and  Wester,  leaving 
them  the  river  makes  its  way  through  Mid-Lothian  for  two  miles  ;  lastly, 
where  it  looks  to  the  north,  by  the  Frith  of  Forth,  from  the  mouth 
of  the  Almond  to  Inchbucklin  Brae  on  the  confines  of  East  Lothian  for 
more  than  eight  miles.  It  is  watered  by  six  rivers,  the  Almond,  the 
Leith,  the  two  Esks,  which,  before  they  fall  into  the  sea,  unite  in  one 
channel,  the  Tyne,  and  the  Gala.  These,  some  from  the  Lammermoors 
and  some  from  the  Pentland  Hills,  which  are  prominent  in  the  south, 
flow  into  the  Forth,  all  of  them  within  the  same  shire,  except  the  Tyne, 
which  runs  into  the  Forth  near  Tyninghame  in  East  Lothian,  and  the 
Gala,  which  falls  into  the  Tweed  not  far  below  Galashiels  in  Selkirkshire. 
The  head  of  the  moor  on  the  farthest  borders  of  Clydesdale  shows  the 
source  of  the  Almond.  Its  channel  and  course  run  to  the  north-east  for 
fourteen  miles  until  it  falls  into  the  Forth  at  Lower  Cramond.  Here 
there  is  abundance  of  fresh-water  fishes,  and  this  river  is  notable  also  for 
salmon  fishing  in  the  reach  from  its  mouth  for  three  miles  up. 
has  this  drawback,  that  near  its  mouth  for  four  miles  more  c 
inundates  with  its  floods  the  low-lying  fields  and  cultivated  lands,  ai 
causes  great  loss  to  the  dwellers  in  the  vicinity  of  both  its  banks,  espe- 
cially in  the  autumn,  when  it  damages  their  crops  and  sweeps  the  i 
cut  grain  with  extraordinary  impetuosity  into  the  sea.  There  are 


630          TRANSLATION  :  SHIRE  OF  EDINBURGH 


- 


stone  bridges  on  this  river ;  one  of  three  arches  at  Upper  Cramon 
another  of  two  arches  above  Hallistonum  [Illieston],  and  the  third  of 
one  arch  at  Calder.  The  more  notable  houses  and  castles  situated  on 
this  river  on  the  north-west  are  the  two  Cavodunums  [Howdens],  Easter 
and  Wester,  Lethem  and  Pumpherston ;  to  which  on  the  opposite  bank 
of  the  river  correspond  Grandgium  [Grange],  Alderstone,  Calder  Castle, 
Illieston  Hall,  with  the  village  of  the  same  name,  Aulae  Horti,  in 
common  speech  called  Halyards,  Lenny  and  the  two  Cramonds,  Upper 
and  Lower.  The  Almond  is  augmented  by  the  following  smaller  rivulets 
as  tributaries  :  the  Breighius  [Breich],  the  Killinghius  [Killinich,  now 
the  Harvvood  Burn],  the  Wyndhornius  [now  the  Murieston  Water],  the 
Austro-sylvius  [the  Southwood,  now  the  Linhouse  Burn],  and  the  Gogar. 
All  these  take  their  rise  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  shire,  but  unite  in 
one  channel  with  the  Almond  towards  the  north  and  north-east.  The 
Breich  flows  from  Muldron  north-east,  on  the  confines  of  Edinburgh  and 
Linlithgow,  for  five  miles  until  at  length  it  joins  the  Almond  at  Grange. 
The  more  notable  houses  situated  near  this  river  are  Mamisylvia 
[Handaxwood],  Juncomontium  [Rashiehill],  Ericedomuri  [Muirhouse- 
dykes],  Adifontium  [Addiewell],  and  Baidiae  [Baads].  The  Killinich 
rising  in  Carnwath  Moor  falls  into  the  Almond  above  Calder  Castle  not 
far  from  the  Breich.  The  Cornuflexius  Burn,  in  common  speech  the 
Wyndhorn,  taking  its  rise  a  little  above  Leporisylvia  [Harwood],  de- 
scends towards  the  north  for  nearly  four  miles  to  the  foot  of  the  Calder 
Wood  and  below  it,  where  it  unites  in  the  same  channel  with  the  Lin- 
house  Burn,  and  along  with  it,  a  little  farther  down,  falls  into  the 
Almond.  Near  this  rivulet  the  most  notable  houses  and  castles  situated 
on  either  side  are  Sylva  Leporum  [Harwood],  Hermischeiliae  [Hermisheel 
in  Blaeu's  map],  Fraternia,  in  common  speech  Brotherton.  The  Austro- 
sylvius  from  Garronsick  [Craigengar],  where  the  three  shires  of  Lothian, 
Clydesdale,  and  Tweeddale  meet,  flows  towards  the  north  for  three 
miles  to  the  south  bridge  of  Calder,  where  it  discharges  into  the  Cornu- 
flexius. The  principal  houses  and  castles  which  stand  near  this  rivulet 
are  Cataractria,  in  common  speech  Linnehouse,  Corsetbornium  [Cross- 
woodburn],  Selmehum  [Selm],  and  Calder  Hall.  The  two  last-mentioned 
rivulets,  after  they  have  united  into  one  channel,  have  a  common  bridge 
over  them,  a  little  below  the  confluence.  The  Gogar,  rising  a  little 
above  Kirknewton,  flows  towards  the  north  for  six  miles  more  or  less, 
and  at  length  falls  into  the  Almond  slightly  to  the  west  of  the  eastern 
bridges.  The  more  notable  houses  and  castles  situated  near  this  rivulet 
on  the  west  side  are  Kirknewton,  Humbie,  Hatton,  Aldistone,  and 
Upper  Gogar  with  the  castle  of  the  same  name.  Opposite  to  these,  on 
the  eastern  bank,  are  the  village  of  Dalmahoy,  situated  at  the  base  of  a 
rocky  steep  which  they  call  in  common  speech  Dalmahoy  Craig,  Dal- 
mahoy Castle,  Warriston,  the  village  of  Hermiston  with  the  castle  of  the 
same  name,  and  Rubrae  Fodinae,  in  common  speech  Redhewes.  Between 
the  Gogar  and  the  Linhouse  Burn  lie  Monton,  Corstaium  [Corston],  and 


TRANSLATION:  SHIRE  OF  EDINBURGH          (j:H 

Ormiston  ;  and  between  the  Gogar  also  and  the  Almond  lie  Pulchella 
[Bonnington],  Ratho,  Rathobubilia  [Ratho  Byres],  Norton,  and  I.u:li>- 
ton.     The  Leith  which  rises  at  Cairn  Hill,  after  it  has  passed  over  ten 
miles  in  its  flow,  at  length,  avoiding  all  narrow  gorges  like  barriers, 
turns  its  course  finally  into  the  Frith  of  Forth,  at  the  town  of  the  same 
name  and   its  highly  celebrated   harbour.      On  this  river  there  are 
situated  forty-three  mills  and  a  recently  erected  manufactory.     Various 
houses,   castles,   and  villages  occupy  its  western  bank,  viz.  Ravelrig, 
Curriehill,   with   the  village  of   the  same   name,   Baberton,   Stenopi- 
Molae   [Stenhousemills],    Saughtonhall,    Dena    [Dean],    Innerleith    or 
inland  Leith,  Warristou,  Pulchella,  in  common  speech  Bonneton,  and 
North  Leith.      Corresponding  and   opposite  to  these  on  the  east  are 
Cairn,  Bevellaium  [Bavelaw],  Balleny,  the  two  Lymphoys,  Easter  and 
Wester,  Currie,  Killethum  [Kinleith],  Aulusylvia  [Woodhall],  Colintou, 
Aula  Rubra  [Redhall],  the  village  of  Gorgie,  with  the  mill  of  the  same 
name,    Oviliu  [West   Coates],   Water   of  Leith,    Canonmills,    Pilricum 
[Pilrig],  Pulchellae  Molae  [Bonuington  Mills],  and  the  town  of  Leith. 
At  the  powder  [snuff]  mill  there  flows  into  the  Leith  a  certain  small 
burn  which  those  who  dwell  near  it  call  the  Murray.      Its  orginal 
source  is  a  little  above  Curriemontium  [Curriehill].     On  this  burn  are 
situated  Riccarton  and  Saughton.     Between  the  Leith  and  the  Almond 
lie   Corstorphine,     Saughton,     Curvisaxium    [Craigcrook],    Barontona 
[Barnton],    the  Murrays,   Pilton,   Easter  and  Wester  Lauriston,  Sicca 
Novalia  [Drylea,  now  Drylaw],  and  Innerlethse  rupes  [Craigleith].     The 
south  bank  of  the  Forth  between  the  mouths  of  the  Almond  and  the 
Leith  are  occupied  by  Cramond,  the  two  Grantons,  Easter  and  Wester, 
the  old  Castle  of  Wyrdie  [ Wardie],  and  Newhaven,  where  lately  a  manu- 
factory has  been  established  for  making  ropes  and  cables  of  all  kinds. 
At  the  foot  of  Dalkeith  Wood  the  South  Esk  unites  in  one  channel  with 
the  North  Esk,  and  two  miles  below,  at  Pinkie,  both  fall  into  the  Forth. 
On  the  west  of  this  common  channel  are  situated  Naltona  [Newton], 
Mons   [Mountain,    for    Monkton],    Montis   Aula   [Mountain   Hall,    for 
Monktonhall],  Stonyhill,  and  Vicus  Piscatorius  [Fisherrow].     Opposite 
on  the  east  are  Smeaton,  the  village  of  Inneresk,  Musselburgh,  and 
Pinkie,  where  those  passing  to  and  fro  cross  by  a  stone  bridge  of  three 
arches.     The  North  Esk  flows  from  the  Pentland  Hills  towards  the  north 
for  nine  miles  more  or  less,  until  at  Dalkeith  Wood  it  joins  the  South 
Esk.     On  it  are  situated  to  the  east  Ultramontium,  in  common  speech 
Utershill,  Auchindenny,  Gorton,  and  Albaspinantria  or  Halthornedoune 
Castle.     On  the  west  are  Dalkeith  Castle  with  the  town  of  the  same 
name,  Grandgium  [Grange],  Penicuik,  Domosylviae-Novalia,  in  common 
speech  Woodhouslie,   Roslin,    Dradunum   [Dryden],  Lessuadum  Vicus 
[village  of  Lasswade],   Melville,  and  Lugton.      Three  bridges  afford  a 
passage  over  it  to  those  coming  and  going,  one  at  Dalkeith,  another 
at  Lasswade,  and  the  third  at  Roslin.     Between  the  North  Esk  and 
Leith  are  two  smaller  rivulets,  the  Figgate  and  the  Metland  [the  Median 


632          TRANSLATION  :  SHIRE  OF  EDINBURGH 

or  Magdalene,  now  the  Niddrie  Burn],  which  flow  from  the  Pentland 
Hills  into  the  Forth.  The  Figgate  in  its  descent  towards  the  north 
passes  the  mills  at  Liberton,  Chartariae  [Charters],  and  Priestfield  [now 
Prestonfield].  Then  flowing  with  a  gentle  current  through  Duddiston 
Loch  it  goes  in  a  straight  line  to  the  Forth.  The  Metland,  whose 
original  source  is  above  the  Broomy  Hills,  flows  by  Domus  Lapidea, 
in  common  speech  Standhousium  [Stenhouse],  Little  France,  Niddrie, 
and  Easter  Duddistoii,  and  at  length  falls  into  the  Forth  a  little  north- 
west of  Fisherrow  harbour.  Between  the  Leith  ;ind  the  North  Esk  are 
very  many  gentlemen's  houses  and  castles  worthy  of  mention.  And 
first,  then,  between  the  Leith  and  the  Figgate,  if  we  begin  at  the 
base  of  the  Pentland  Hills  and  continue  our  descent  northwards  to  the 
Forth,  there  are  Cygnea  domus,  in  common  speech  Swanston,  Comiston, 
Rupes  Locarti,  in  common  speech  Craiglockart,  Saxi  domus,  in  common 
speech  Craighussium  [Craighouse],  Breda  [Braid],  Aratri  agellus  [Plew- 
lands],  Brunii  Campus  [Bruntsfield],  Grange,  the  seat  of  the  Monks  of 
Siena,  in  common  speech  Schynius  [Sciennes],  Lignariorum  domus 
[Wrightshouses],  Merchiston,  Campus  Sacerdotis  [Priestfield],  Dairy, 
Ovilia  [East  Coates]  Drumum  [PDrumdryan],  Bruchtona  [Broughton], 
Pilrig,  Restalrig,  Duddiston,  and  Edinburgh,  the  chief  city  in  the 
kingdom,  and  the  only  royal  burgh  in  this  shire,  at  whose  extremities, 
namely,  where  it  looks  east  and  west,  are  situated  the  Palace,  in 
common  speech  Holyrood  House,  on  the  east,  and  the  magnificent  castle 
of  the  city,  in  common  speech  the  Maidens'  Castle,  on  the  west.  A  mile 
below  Edinburgh  the  town  of  Leith  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Leith, 
where  there  is  a  greatly  celebrated  and  very  busy  port  for  shipping, 
which  [serves]  Edinburgh.  This  town  not  long  ago  was  surrounded 
with  ditches,  ramparts,  movable  bridges,  and  other  defences  of  all  sorts. 
Between  the  Metland  Burn  and  the  Figgate,  if  we  begin  at  the  hills  from 
which  they  flow,  and  descend  northwards  to  the  Forth,  there  lie  Morton- 
hall,  Domus  Austri  [Southhouse],  Over  and  Nether  Liberton,  Insula 
[Inch],  Molitorum  rupes,  in  common  speech  Craigmillar,  and  Niddrie. 
Between  the  Metland  and  the  North  Esk,  if  we  begin  at  the  same 
place  and  similarly  continue  our  descent,  there  are  situated  the  village 
of  Penthland,  Straiten,  the  M arrays,  Gilmerton,  Dendragatha  [Good- 
trees,  in  Blaeu's  map  Guters],  Drum,  Comiston,  Lanaria  [Woolmet], 
Vicecomitis  aula,  in  common  speech  ShirreffhaH,  Mons  [Mountain, 
for  Monkton],  Brunstane,  and  Albomontium  [Whitehill].  Between  the 
Pentland  Hills  and  the  North  Esk,  Spurcovadum  [Fulford],  Saltus 
crucis  [Glencorse],  and  Nov-aulia  [Newhall]  have  their  position.  The 
South  Esk  flowing  from  the  Morpet  [Moorfoot]  Hills  towards  the  north 
joins  the  North  Esk  at  the  Dalkeith  Wood  after  it  has  completed  a 
course  of  ten  miles.  To  the  east  of  it  are  situated,  if  we  begin  at  the 
fountainhead  of  the  river,  Morpetum  [Moorfoot],  Malslia  [Mauldslie], 
Eboracodomus  [Yorkstone],  Clerkinton,  Temple,  Arniston,  the  Shank, 
Cockpen,  and  Stonflett,  to  which  the  village  of  Carrington,  Dalhousie, 


TRANSLATION  :  SHIRE  OF  EDINBURGH  683 

and  Newbotle  correspond  on  the  west.  On  the  river  there  are  four 
stone  bridges,  one  below  Dalkeith,  another  below  Newbotle,  the  third 
at  the  head  of  Newbotle,  and  the  fourth  at  Dalhoussie.  Between  the 
North  and  South  Esks,  before  they  unite  into  one  channel,  where 
there  is  only  a  small  space,  with  a  soil  for  the  most  part  highly 
fertile  in  crops,  the  more  notable  houses  situated  near  the  banks 
of  the  river  are  as  above  stated,  with  the  exception  of  Domus  Albo- 
montana  (the  House  of  Whitehill),  which  is  placed  almost  midway 
between  the  said  rivers,  corresponding  to  Carrington  on  the  opposite 
side,  where  the  road  goes  to  Roslin.  The  Garrus  [Gore],  rising  a  little 
above  Borthwick  Castle,  flows  westward  until  it  falls  into  the  North 
Esk  at  the  angle  of  the  Shank,  where  the  Shank  itself  is  situated  and  com- 
mands a  wide  and  pleasing  prospect  of  the  Gore  river  and  the  Esk.  The 
more  notable  houses  situated  on  this  river  are  Halflakiln,  Borthwick 
Castle,  Neobubilia  [Newbyres],  and  the  Shank.  The  Tyne,  rising  a  little 
above  Crichton  Wood,  flows  towards  the  north-east  for  four  miles  within 
the  shire;  then  it  passes  through  East  Lothian  with  a  straight  and 
gentle  flow  to  Tyninghame,  where  it  falls  into  the  Forth.  Situated  on 
its  east  within  Mid-Lothian  are  Crichton  Castle,  Vadum  [Ford],  Over 
Cranston  and  Little  Preston,  to  which  correspond  on  the  opposite  side 
Lacuquharetum[Loquhariot],  Hagbunaum  [Hagbrae],  Vogrie,and  Nether 
Cranston.  Between  the  Tyne  and  the  South  Esk,  as  we  descend 
towards  the  north,  the  principal  houses  are  Stobomontium  [Stobhill] 
and  Austrilatus  [Southside] ;  the  houses  to  the  west  are  Masterton  and 
Bryanum  [Bryans] ;  the  houses  to  the  east  are  Ovilia  [Coats],  Fordell, 
Latus  longum  [Longside],  Carberry,  Cousland,  and  Vallivadium  [\Vrally- 
ford].  Between  the  western  bank  of  the  Tyne  and  the  borders  of  East 
Lothian  the  two  Crichtons,  Easter  and  Wester,  Versimuri  [Turniedykes], 
Corstorphinum  [for  Costerton],  the  village  of  Fala,  with  the  castle  of 
the  same  name,  Saughneilum  [Saughland],  and  Cakemuir  have  their 
positions  allotted  to  them.  Among  all  the  rivers  by  which  this  shire 
is  watered,  the  Gala  alone  flows  in  its  course  towards  the  south.  Its 
source  is  at  Fala  Hill,  whence  it  descends  six  miles  within  this  shire ; 
then  it  enters  Tweeddale,  and  falls  into  the  Tweed  at  Bolsyde  in 
Tweeddale.  On  this  river  to  the  west  are  situated  Falahill,  Heriot 
town,  and  Arcuagria  [Bowland]  ;  to  which  on  the  opposite  or  eastern 
side  correspond  Cortleferry,  Halltree,  Crukstone,  Hopringle,  Stow 
town,  and  Torsonce.  The  only  burgh  in  this  shire  is  Edinburgh, 
since  Dalkeith,  Musselburgh,  etc.,  are  merely  market-towns  and  not 
royal  burghs.  The  Castle  of  Edinburgh,  owing  to  the  peculiarity  of 
its  position,  and  to  the  skill  and  labour  of  men,  by  which  it  has  been 
extremely  well  fortified,  is  inaccessible  on  all  sides,  as  it  is  situated  on 
the  top  of  a  great  and  very  high  rock,  with  sides  rising  perpendicularly, 
except  that,  as  the  nature  of  the  case  demands,  one  narrow  and  steep 
approach  is  open  to  it  from  the  city.  This  access  is  effectively  guarded, 
partly  with  strong  walls  constructed  on  both  sides,  partly  with  triple 


634          TRANSLATION:   SHIRE  OF  EDINBURGH 

gates,  outer,  middle  and  inner,  and  partly  with  drawbridges  and  other 
necessary  defences.  Further,  among  all  the  noblemen's  houses  and 
castles  of  importance  on  account  of  their  size  and  grandeur  which  this 
shire  contains  within  its  area,  the  leading  place  is  easily  held  by  the 
House  and  Castle  of  Dalkeith,  belonging  to  the  Earl  of  Balcleuch,  and 
situated  at  that  angle  which  the  Esk  rivers  form  as  they  approach  one 
another  and  unite  in  one  channel.  Adjoining  this  castle  is  an  extensive 
forest  with  enclosed  parks,  very  wide  and  beautiful,  where  there  are 
stags  in  abundance.  The  House  of  Newbotle  in  excellence  of  construct- 
tion  and  amenity  of  situation  must  be  placed  among  the  first.  Enclosed 
parks  adjoin  it,  and  there  are  also  stags  to  be  seen.  Dalhousie  Castle  is 
large  and  well  fortified,  since  it  is  surrounded  by  a  battlemented  wall  of 
fine  workmanship,  a  strong  tower  also  being  built  at  each  corner. 
Borthwick  Castle  is  a  large  and  strong  tower  of  great  height,  and  is  also 
in  its  whole  extent  within  and  without  of  fine  workmanship.  Its  walls 
are  more  than  fifteen  feet  thick.  At  the  foundations  of  the  tower 
an  excellent  natural  spring  issues  from  the  entrenchment.  And  the 
house  here  is  likewise  well  lighted  with  windows,  and  is  sufficiently 
fitted  with  other  requisites  for  occupation.  Crichton  Castle  is  of  good 
and  strong  construction.  Its  situation  is  very  pleasant,  for  it  has 
adjacent  to  it  a  forest  and  enclosed  parks.  Calder  Castle  is  a  large 
and  spacious  house  very  pleasantly  situated  on  the  top  of  a  knoll  and 
surrounded  on  all  sides  by  streams.  Adjacent  to  it  on  the  south  is 
an  extensive  wood,  from  which  one  may  view  a  plain  that  stretches 
eight  miles  north-west.  Hatton  House  is  of  great  strength  and  good 
construction  in  finished  workmanship,  and  it  is  surrounded  by  a  mantled 
wall.  Here  we  must  not  omit  Roslin,  by  the  North  Esk,  which  occupies 
a  most  agreeable  situation  on  the  summit  of  a  steep  rock,  and  rejoices 
in  the  amenity  of  the  river  gently  gliding  by,  and  in  the  pleasant  pro- 
spect of  woods  growing  all  around.  No  access  to  it  lies  open  except  by  a 
suspension  bridge  stretching  from  the  top  of  both  the  rock  and  the  house 
• — for  the  two  have  the  same  summit — to  the  far  end  of  Roslin  bridge. 
As  regards  the  interior  of  the  house,  all  its  chambers,  partitions  and 
rooms,  and  the  stairs  whereby  you  descend  to  each  are  cut  out  of 
the  solid  rock,  so  that  every  single  chamber  or  room  consists  of  one 
stone.  Roslin  Chapel,  among  all  the  buildings  of  this  kingdom,  is 
wrought  with  the  greatest  elaboration,  so  that  almost  nowhere  could 
you  find  a  work  constructed  in  stone  that  is  more  beautiful  to  see, 
or  of  more  exquisite  art.  Not  far  from  Roslin  but  a  little  more  to 
east,  Spinarum  antrum  [Hawthornden]  is  overhung  by  a  cave  of  con- 
siderable size,  divided  into  three  rooms,  one  farther  in  than  another, 
to  which  a  single  entrance  lies  open,  and  that  so  narrow  as  hardly  to 
be  broader  than  a  table.  Those  who  pass  this  in  and  out  are  seized 
with  a  feeling  of  fear  and  sometimes  with  giddiness  caused  by  the  flow 
of  the  river  underneath,  at  a  distance  of  a  hundred  ells,  as  it  washes 
with  its  current  the  rock  that  contains  the  cave.  Near  the  Church 


TRANSLATION  :   SHIRE  OF  EDINBURGH          635 

of  Liberton,  but  more  to  the  south,  at  the  Chapel  of  St.  Catherine, 
there  is  a  spring  which  is  worthy  of  mention  because  in  the  morning', 
along  with  its  own  waters,  it  sends  forth  oil,  or  rather  a  kind  of  viscous 
and  fatty  balsam.  This  the  owners  of  the  neighbouring  fields  gather  and 
store  ten  months  of  the  year,  since  it  serves  as  a  usual  medicament  to  heal 
dislocations,  inflammations,  blows,  burns,  contusions,  sprains,  and  various 
other  ailments.  This  shire  embraces  two  presbyteries,  Edinburgh  and 
Dalkeith.  The  Presbytery  of  Edinburgh  consists  of  the  following 
parishes,  viz.,  six  within  Edinburgh  itself,  which  are  served  by  twelve 
pastors  for  conducting  public  worship ;  then  the  parish  of  Canongate, 
or  if  you  prefer  it,  the  Abbey  of  Holyrood,  and  twelve  [#»>]  country 
parishes,  to  wit  South  Leith,  North  Leith,  Duddiston,  Libertou,  St. 
Cuthbert's,  Hailes,  Corstorphine,  Cramond,  Currie,  Ratho,  Kirknewtou. 
Dalkeith  Presbytery  is  made  up  of  fifteen  parishes,  which  are  the  follow- 
ing: Inveresk,  Newton,  Dalkeith,  Lasswade,  Gleucorse,  Pennicuik, 
Newbotle,  Cockpen,  Carington,  Temple,  Heriot,  Horthwick,  Crichton, 
Cranston,  and  Fala.  Further,  in  addition  to  the  parishes  enumerated, 
the  following  four  are  comprised  in  the  area  of  this  shire  :  Calderclare, 
East  and  West  Calder,  and  Stobo,  of  which  the  last-mentioned  belongs 
to  the  Presbytery  of  Erslington  [Earlston],  and  the  remaining  three  to 
the  Presbytery  of  Linlithgow.  This  shire  is  self-sufficient  in  all  that  is 
necessary  for  the  use  of  the  inhabitants,  for  it  is  rich  in  crops  of  all  kinds, 
such  as  wheat,  winter  wheat,  barley,  oats,  etc.  It  is  also  not  without  its 
pastures,  parks  and  meadows,  in  which,  besides  flocks  of  sheep  and  herds 
cf  animals  necessary  for  the  cultivation  of  the  fields  and  the  requirements 
of  life,  it  rears  very  many  pack-horses  meant  for  the  daily  conveyance  of 
food  and  drink  and  fuel  from  the  neighbouring  towns,  districts,  and  villages 
to  Edinburgh.  These  are  also  very  largely  used  by  the  porters  and 
carriers  of  Leith  and  Edinburgh  for  carrying  and  drawing  from  Leith 
to  Edinburgh  merchandise  of  all  descriptions  imported  by  sea,  because 
the  city  of  Edinburgh  is  situated  more  than  a  mile  away  from  Leith  port, 
which  it  uses  as  its  own.  The  more  notable  hills  of  this  shire  are,  first 
the  Pentland  Hills,  which  are  prominent  in  the  southern  parts  of  the 
shire,  running  in  a  long  range  from  east  to  west ;  then  Nigel's  Rock 
[the  Dhucraig  or  Calton  Hill],  and  Corstorphine  Rock.  But  the  most 
celebrated  of  all  are  Salisbury  Hill,  and  Arthur's  Seat  overtopping  it, 
near  Cruccia,  or,  if  with  the  common  people  you  prefer  it,  the  Abbey  of 
Holyrood,  which  rise  within  the  Royal  Park  that  James  v.  first  caused 
to  be  surrounded  with  a  stone  wall  more  than  four  miles  in  circuit,  for 
the  use  of  his  neighbouring  palace  at  the  said  Cruccia.  This  shire  also 
abounds  everywhere  in  lime  quarries  and  coal-pits,  and  is  moderately 
planted  with  trees,  especially  about  the  noblemen's  castles  and  gentle- 
men's houses.  Lastly,  it  has  woods  of  the  greatest  amenity  at  Dalkeith, 
Newbotle,  Dalhousie,  Crichton,  Roslin,  Calder,  and  the  Shank. 


636  TRANSLATION  :  CITY  OF  EDINBURGH 


A  DESCRIPTION  OF  EDINBURGH. 

The  Metropolis  of  our  kingdom  was  called  by  the  most  ancient  native 
inhabitants  Agneda  or  Ageda  or  Agmeda,  a  compound  word  which  is 
equivalent  to  Winged  Rock.  For  ague  or  age  or  agme  is  a  rock,  from 
the  Greek  dyrj,  vel  aypa,  vel  dyp.6s,  a  fracture  or  breakage,  a  rock,  and 
everywhere  in  ancient  writers  rough  places  are  dy/uu,  while  agneu 
among  ourselves  in  Galloway  is  a  broken  place,  whence  comes  the  name 
of  a  noble  family.  The  original  word  is  aya>  or  dyvva,  I  break,  I  burst, 
from  which  are  derived  in  our  language  ag,  and  with  the  rough  breathing, 
hag  to  break,  to  divide  into  bits.  The  other  part  of  the  compound  is 
f.du  or  eta,  a  word  meaning  a  wing,  a  feather,  among  our  old  inhabitants. 
Its  source  is  from  the  Hebrew  ntDV  atti,  I  cover,  I  shade,  I  close.  We 
know  that  wings  or  feathers  are  the  coverings  of  birds.  Even  at  the 
present  day  our  Castle  is  called  by  the  Britons  of  Wales  Mined  agned, 
i.e.  a  projecting  or  high  winged  rock.  Now  mined  is  projecting,  high, 
from  the  Greek  pevo),  I  remain.  This  is  from  J£tf  aman,  constant.  Then 
our  ancient  countrymen  in  the  north  preferred  to  say  Duned  instead 
of  the  word  Agned,  putting  dun  for  agne,  as  the  two  words  signify  the 
same  thing  ;  and  adding  the  syllable  '  en '  or  ( in  '  carelessly  they  made  it 
Duneden.  This  syllable  '  en  '  is  often  added  among  us  to  names  of  places 
as  here,  and  inserted  in  compounds  as  Ballendalloch  for  Balldalloch,  etc. 
By  a  slight  transposition  the  Latin  writers  made  Duneden,  Edinodununi. 
Recent  German  writers  for  Edinodununi  have  said  Edinburgum.  For  the 
Germans  call  a  mountain,  hill,  or  rock  burg  or  berg,  from  the  Greek  word 
Trvpyos.  This  word  comes  from  the  Chaldean  word,  n~lQ  pnrach  to  grow, 
for  mountains  are  growths  rising  from  the  land.  Jn  a  secondary  sense 
these  words  mean  simply  raised  habitations,  massive  houses,  which  they 
commonly  call  towers.  And  T)LD  tour  or  iiv  tsour  is  a  rock,  a  stone. 
This  word  ster  in  Saxon  is  a  rock,  and  in  Greek  a-reppov  is  firm,  hard  like 
a  rock.  Therefore  the  monks  and  their  followers  talk  nonsense  when 
they  write  that  this  place  of  ours  has  its  name  from  Edwin  or  Ethin, 
some  Pictish  king.  The  French  used  to  call  this  city  L'aileburg,  as 
if  you  said  Winged-burg,  for  aile  is  wing  ;  but  the  common  French  people 
wrongly  pronounce  it  Lisleburg.  Ptolemy  calls  this  place  o-rparoVeSoi/ 
irT€pa>T6v,  Winged  Fort,  everywhere  for  the  same  reason,  not  because  the 
Castle  or  fort  is  considered  to  have  wings  like  those  that  architects, 
as  Vitruvius  informs  us,  call  Trrtpw/iara,  which  are  twin  walls  so  rising  in 
height  as  to  present  the  appearance  of  wings,  nor  because  squadrons  of 
cavalry  were  posted  there,  since  from  the  oldest  name  it  is  plain  that  the 
rock  was  so  called  before  any  walls  of  that  kind  were  built  on  it,  if  ever 
there  were  such,  and  long  before  any  squadrons  of  cavalry  were  posted 
there,  if  ever  they  were.  The  reason  for  the  name,  therefore,  must  be 
sought  from  another  source,  without  doubt  from  nature  itself,  which 
clearly  furnishes  the  explanation.  For  two  hills  near  this  rock  of  ours 


TRANSLATION:  CITY  OF  EDINBURGH  637 

on  which  the  castle  is  situated,  namely  Salisbury  Crag  and  Nigel's  Crag 
[for  the  Dhucraig  or  Caltoii  Hill],  so  called  from  former  proprietors 
present  in  some  degree  the  appearance  of  wings,  as  you  may  plainly 
observe  when  you  are  coming  from  the  south-east,  near  the  sea-shore,  to 
Edinburgh,  for  then  these  crags  aforesaid  appear  like  wings,  and  the 
rock  with  its  castle  like  the  crested  head  of  a  bird.  And  this  is  the  real 
explanation  of  the  name.  On  Salisbury  Crag  there  is  a  summit,  which 
is  commonly  called  Arthur's  Seat,  for  we  attribute  everything  that 
is  great  to  Arthur,  our  celebrated  British  Chief.  From  him  also  many 
flatterers  derive  a  very  great  number  of  the  origins  of  our  country's 
families,  as  the  Greek  story-tellers  used  to  refer  the  descent  of  many 
families  to  their  own  Hercules,  and  to  attribute  to  him  all  great  exploits. 
But  our  monks,  who  wrote  in  a  running  hand,  reading  in  their  ignorance 
alarum,  '  wings'  fort/  for  alatam  <  winged  fort,'  and  not  knowing  the 
reason  why  the  castle  could  be  called  winged  or  wings',  thought  that  the 
reading  ought  to  be  puellarum  (Maidens'  Fort).  And  then,  to  support 
the  error,  they  invented  the  story  about  the  maidens  of  the  Pictish 
nobility,  who  were  wont  to  be  detained  there  until  they  were  given 
in  marriage.  Lastly  our  common  people,  when  from  the  olden  time 
they  were  in  the  habit  of  hearing  that  stronghold  called  by  the  ancient 
inhabitants  Mined  Castle,  thought  it  was  Maiden  Castle.  This  monkish 
story  gave  a  handle  to  the  popular  error.  As  regards  the  antiquity 
of  our  castle,  it  will  be  sufficient  for  me  to  trace  it  from  the  time  of 
Antonine,  under  whom  Ptolemy  flourished,  i.e.  from  the  middle  of  the 
second  century  after  the  birth  of  Christ,  although  beyond  all  doubt 
it  is  of  far  greater  antiquity.  I  am  aware  that  there  are  some,  and 
those  not  unlearned  men,  who  will  have  it  that  Ptolemy's  (rrpaTOTrtdov 
TTTepwrov  was  in  a  different  part  of  the  country,  and  was  not  Edinburgh, 
since  Ptolemy  places  his  a-rparoTrfdov  among  the  Vaccomagi.  Ptolemy 
must  of  course  be  pardoned  when  he  makes  a  mistake  in  the  position  of 
places,  since  he  was  a  foreigner,  and  one,  besides,  so  far  remote  from  us, 
for  he  was  by  birth  an  Egyptian,  and  lived  at  Alexandria.  He  was 
therefore  under  the  necessity  of  following  the  narrative  and  the  credi- 
bility of  others  in  this  matter.  It  is  not  surprising,  then,  that  he  makes 
a  slip  pretty  often.  The  rock  on  which  the  castle  is  built  is  precipitous 
on  the  south,  west,  and  north  ;  consequently  the  castle  is  quite  inacces- 
sible on  these  sides  of  the  rock.  On  the  east  there  is  a  gentle  slope,  and 
here  is  the  entrance  to  the  castle.  This  side  of  the  castle  is  fortified 
with  breastworks  and  with  very  thick  walls.  On  this  slope  the  city  was 
founded,  but  certainly  not  in  a  single  day ;  for  at  first  the  neighbours 
built  a  very  few  houses  near  the  castle,  to  be  safe  under  its  shade  from 
being  harmed  by  their  foes.  Thus  by  degrees,  as  the  population  grew, 
the  number  of  houses  increased  in  extent,  from  the  castle  to  the  extreme 
end  of  the  slope,  eastward  for  nearly  a  mile,  if  you  now  include  the 
Canons'  suburb.  Both  sides  of  the  slope  from  the  brow  to  the  foot  are 
covered  with  tall  buildings  in  a  long  line  in  the  centre  of  the  slope.  A 


638  TRANSLATION  :  CITY  OF  EDINBURGH 

wide  street  is  left  from  one  end  to  the  other.  But  the  buildings  are 
divided  by  lanes  and  closes,  all  of  which  lanes  are  narrow ;  thus  the 
houses  are  so  near  each  other  that  they  have  hardly  free  air,  and  here 
they  are  mutually  hurtful.  Nowhere  else,  perhaps,  could  you  find 
in  such  a  narrow  space  so  many  houses  and  so  great  a  population  as 
in  this  city  of  ours.  There  are  two  circumstances  in  particular  that 
in  recent  times  have  caused  this  city  to  grow  to  the  size  which  you  see  : 
first  the  fact  that  from  the  earliest  ages  our  kings  have  been  wont  to 
dwell  here  longer  than  elsewhere.  Then  in  the  last  century,  at  the 
instance  of  James  v.,  the  court  of  the  Supreme  Senate  of  the  whole 
kingdom  was  fixed  here,  instead  of,  as  before,  moving  about  from  place 
to  place,  just  as  a  similar  change  was  made  in  France,  whose  example 
the  king  followed  in  this  matter.  This  slope  on  which  the  city  is  built 
had  formerly,  and  has  even  at  the  present  day,  on  its  northern  side 
a  marsh  which  is  commonly  called  the  North  Loch.  On  the  south  side 
of  the  slope  there  was  likewise  a  marsh  which  was  called  the  South  Loch. 
These  two  lochs  bounded  the  city  on  the  two  sides,  as  the  North 
Loch  still  forms  its  limit  on  the  north.  But  the  South  Loch  was 
drained  two  centuries  ago,  and,  where  its  banks  were,  are  lines  of  houses 
from  east  to  west,  between  which  there  stretches  the  Cow  Street 
or  Cowgate,  where  the  actual  loch  was.  And  thus  towards  the  south 
the  free  space  of  the  city  was  extended  in  breadth  far  beyond  its  old 
boundary,  and  in  length  towards  the  west.  For  now  the  Grass  and 
Horse  market  is  within  the  city  walls,  which  according  to  the  custom  of 
the  nation  are  not  so  strong  as  to  stand  a  cannonade,  for  the  Scots  are 
accustomed  to  defend  their  cities  with  men,  and  not  with  walls.  There 
are  five  ports,  or  gates,  namely  two  011  the  east,  of  which  the  first 
is  called  the  Nether  Bow  because  it  is  at  the  foot  of  the  slope  of  the 
principal,  i.e.  the  High  Street:  the  second  is  the  Cowgate  Port. 
Towards  the  south  there  are  likewise  two  gates,  of  which  the  one  more 
to  the  east  is  called  the  Potterrow  Port ;  the  other  is  the  Society  Port 
(the  society,  that  is  to  say,  of  brewers).  The  fifth  is  the  West  Port. 
The  castle  was  beautified  and  repaired  by  recent  kings,  and  fortified 
with  breastworks  on  the  east.  There  is  in  the  city  one  great  church 
which  at  the  present  day  is  divided  into  three  sacred  edifices,  namely  the 
East,  Middle,  and  West  Churches.  Each  of  these  three  has  its  own 
separate  parish.  Near  this  church  is  the  palace  commonly  called  the 
Parliament  House,  where  the  three  orders  of  the  realm  assemble  to 
deliberate  about  high  affairs  of  state,  and  there  also  the  Senate  meets  for 
the  administration  of  justice  to  the  people.  To  the  south  beyond  the 
Cowgate  is  a  new  building  of  elegant  workmanship,  which  is  commonly 
called  Heriot's  Hospital  after  its  founder ;  near  it,  to  the  east,  is  the 
Church  of  the  Greyfriars,  who  have  their  name  from  their  mixed  colour. 
The  public  cemetery  of  the  city  within  the  walls  is  here.  Also  on  the 
south,  the  University  of  the  city,  adorned  with  extensive  buildings, 
now  stands.  Next  to  it  is  the  new  church  named  after  Yester,  recently 


TRANSLATION:  CITY  OF  EDINBURGH  (J39 

built  at  the  expense  of  Lady  Yester.  Near  it  is  the  Public  School,  in 
rhich  the  classics  are  taught.  On  the  south  side  of  the  great  or  High 
Street  stands  a  magnificent  new  church,  near  the  old  Tron,  whence  it  is 
usually  called  the  Tron  Church.  There  is  also  a  new  Tron  towards  the 
west,  where  the  Castle  Wynd  ends  and  the  High  Street  begins.  It  is 
commonly  called  the  Weighhouse.  On  the  north  side  of  the  Great 
Church  and  near  it  is  the  public  prison,  where  the  old  Tolbooth  stood. 
At  the  middle  of  the  High  Street  is  the  public  Cross,  where  proclama- 
tion of  all  public  acts  is  wont  to  be  made  by  the  voice  of  a  herald.  From 
the  Nether  Bow  there  runs  a  long  street  with  a  gentle  descent  usually 
called  the  Cauongate,  which  extends  in  length  to  the  Abbey  of  the  Holy 
Rood.  This  street  also  is  adorned  from  its  top  to  its  foot  on  both  sides 
with  elegant  buildings  adjoining  each  other.  In  this  street,  on  its 
south  side,  there  is  a  fine  Tolbooth,  where  the  public  prison  is  situated. 
At  the  middle  of  the  street  stands  a  cross,  at  which  the  market  of  this 
suburb  is  held  on  stated  days,  for  this  street  of  the  Canons  is  also  the 
way  leading  within  the  walls  of  the  city  ;  and  nearer  the  abbey  stands 
another  cross,  commonly  called  the  Cross  of  the  Precinct,  because 
between  it  and  the  abbey  a  certain  space  is  marked  off,  and  served  of 
old  as  a  sanctuary  for  those  who  dared  not  go  about  in  public  owing  to 
the  rigour  of  the  law,  or  the  injustice  of  extreme  law.  The  abbey  has 
been  turned  to  other  uses  for  now  more  than  a  century,  for  the  fine 
palace  built  by  James  v.  is  there,  though  the  work  is  not  finished.  The 
canons'  houses  accommodate  the  courtiers.  A  church  of  very  fine  work- 
manship, but  partly  ruinous,  stands  there.  On  the  south  side  of  the 
Canongate,  not  far  from  the  public  Cross,  are  the  gardens  with  the 
mansion  of  the  Earl  of  Moray.  These  gardens  are  cultivated  with  so 
much  taste  and  with  such  care  that  they  easily  challenge  comparison 
with  those  of  warmer  tracts,  and  even  almost  of  England  itself.  And 
here  you  can  see  how  much  human  art  and  industry  avail  in  supplying 
the  defects  even  of  nature.  Hardly  any  one  could  believe  that  in  cold 
countries  so  much  amenity  could  be  secured  in  gardens.  But  to  return 
to  the  Nether  Bow  of  the  city.  From  it  to  the  north  there  is  a  sloping 
lane,  commonly  called  Leith  Wynd,  because  it  is  the  road  to  Leith.  At 
the  foot  of  the  lane  there  is  a  gate,  near  which  stands  a  very  beautiful 
church,  which  generally  goes  by  the  name  of  the  College  Church,  from 
the  College  of  the  Canons,  who  in  the  time  of  the  Romish  superstition 
were  there  free  for  sacred  duties.  This  church  was  built  by  the  mother 
of  James  in.  I  cannot  at  present  note  the  exact  and  several  times  at 
which  this  city  received  additions,  or  tell  from  what  kings  it  obtained 
privileges  with  this  increase.  The  government  of  the  city  is  conducted 
by  a  Provost,  who  has  for  some  time  been  elected  yearly  from  the 
number  of  the  citizens,  whereas,  before  that,  one  of  the  neighbouring 
noblemen  usually  held  the  office.  The  Provost  has  as  assessors  the  ex- 
Provost  and  four  judges-substitute  whom  they  call  bailies,  and  these 
likewise  are  chosen  every  year  from  the  number  of  the  more  honourable 


640  TRANSLATION  :  CITY  OF  EDINBURGH 

citizens.  Sometimes  the  offices  of  provost  and  bailies  are  continued  for 
more  than  a  year.  The  suburb  of  the  Canongate  is  under  the  jurisdiction 
of  the  provost  of  the  city,  from  which  it  receives  a  bailie  with  a  clerk  or 
keeper  of  the  register.1  The  suburb  outside  of  the  West  Port  has  also 
its  own  bailie.  The  whole  city  takes  in  under  it  not  only  the  town 
within  the  walls,  but  two  very  large  suburbs  as  they  are  called,  namely 
the  suburb  outside  of  the  gate  that  looks  to  the  west  and  that  of  the 
Canongate,  and  also  Leith.  Edinburgh  is  the  most  important  trading 
place  in  our  country,  and  there  not  only  is  merchandise  that  is  produced 
at  home  sold  to  the  neighbours,  but  also  foreign  and  imported  wares  are 
distributed  along  with  the  home  products  throughout  the  whole  king- 
dom. The  city  is  subdivided  into  eight  wards  or  neighbourhoods,  which 
are  commonly  called  the  Quarters  of  the  city.  In  each  ward  or  quarter 
the  young  men  have  their  own  leader  or  captain,  lieutenant,  and 
standard-bearer,  whose  lead  they  follow  in  war. 

Leith  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  of  the  same  name,  and 
being  on  either  side  of  it,  is  thus  divided  into  two  districts  which  are 
joined  by  a  stone  bridge  over  the  river.  Each  district  has  its  own 
church.  There  is  only  one  Tolbooth,  and  one  public  prison  serving 
both,  and  there  is  one  public  school.  The  harbour  is  at  the  very  mouth 
of  the  river,  and  is  the  most  convenient  and  important  of  all  in  our 
country.  On  both  sides  of  the  river-mouth  are  piers  running  out  to  the 
sea,  and  constructed  with  wooden  piles  driven  into  the  ground,  which 
are  at  frequent  intervals  united  by  cross  beams.  Between  the  piles  or 
stakes  and  the  cross  beams  very  large  stones  are  placed,  with  which  the 
whole  space  between  the  piles  is  filled  to  the  top,  which  is  generally 
covered  with  planks,  and  thus  the  whole  structure  of  the  pier  is  finished. 
The  pier  on  the  east  side  is  much  bigger  than  the  other ;  it  is  therefore 
commonly  called  par  excellence  the  Pier  of  Leith.  Now  and  again,  in 
time  of  war,  Leith  is  surrounded  with  a  turf  rampart  or  wall,  which  in 
time  of  peace  the  inhabitants  destroy,  lest  the  town  should  be  occupied 
by  garrison  soldiers,  who  generally  injure  traders  in  fortified  places. 


1  What  follows  is  a  translation  into  English  of  the  sentence  omitted  by  Mac- 
farlane's  transcriber  (see  p.  627) : — '  In  like  manner  Leith  also  is  of  late  under 
the  jurisdiction  of  Edinburgh,  which,  too,  every  year  gives  it  bailies  with  a 
keeper  of  the  register.' — ED. 

NOTE. — With  reference  to  the  three  Greek  words  in  the  fourth  line  of  the 
Edinburgi  Descriptio,  p.  623,  it  is  desirable  to  point  out  that  Taitt,  Macfarlane's 
transcriber,  gives  them  as  cry^,  vel-  dy/jLos,  vel  dy/j.6s,  repeating  one  of  the  words. 
This  must  be  wrong.  The  David  Buchanan  MS.,  from  which  Taitt  copied, 
gives  the  three  words  as  dy/i,  vel  ayvfj,  vel  dyfji.6s,  but  there  is  no  Greek  noun 
dyvrj.  Therefore,  this  also  must  be  wrong.  If  the  middle  word  of  either  Taitt 
or  Buchanan  is  changed  into  &y/j,a,  then  we  have  the  three  words  as  ayy,  vel 
&yfj.a,  vel  dynbs,  and  all  these  words  give  the  sense  assigned  to  them,  namely, 
'  fractura,  ruptura,  rupes.' — ED. 


INDEX  REGIONU.M  641 

INDEX  HEGIONUM  preseriptarum  earundema  desmp- 
tionum.1 

1    Imprimis  Carictae  descriptio  per      Abercrummium          1 

2.  Item   Information  anent  the  shyre  of  Forfar  by 

Ouchterlony  of  Guide  [sic],  %Q 

3.  Item  description  of  Galloway  by  Andrew  Symson  63. 

4  Item  generall  description  of  the  Stewartrie  of  Kirk- 

cudbright j-j 

5  Item  Northside  of  Coast  of  Buchan  by  Gardin  of 

TrouP  155 

6  Item  description  of  certain  parts  of  the  Highlands       168 

7  Item  a  short  description  of  Dunbarton.  223 

8  Item  description  of  Renfrewshire  232 

9  Item  description  of  the  Lewis  by  John  Morison  242 

10  Item  a  short  description  of  lona  243 

1 1  Item  Jo.  Frasers  account  of  the  Isles  Tyry  Gunna  &c      250 

12  Item  description  of  Sky  253 

13  Item  Adnotata  ad  descriptionem  Aberdonise  et  Banfise  257. 

14  Item  Ad  tabulam  Aberdonensem  et  Banfiensem  285 

15  Item  descriptio  Abredonise  et  Banfiae  286 

16  Item  descriptio  Moravia?  307 

17  Item  Countreys  of  Scotland  by  their  names  310 

18  Adnotata  ex  Bedae  historia  312 

19  Adnotata  ad  Antiquitatern  Scotorum  320 
520    Adnotata  ad  praetenturas,  muros,  valla  325 

21  Adnotata  de  origine  linguae  Saxonicae  apud  nos.  328 

22  Dissertatio  de  Thyle  333 

23  Adnotata  ad  tabulam  veteris  Scotiae  per  R.Gordonium.  335 

24  De  Vestigiis  valli  Agricolae  et  postea  Adriani  per 

Tim.  Pont  344. 

25  Adnotata  de  pre ten turis  et  in uris  :H."> 

26  Exscripta  a  Cambdeno  de  Muro  vel  praetentura  347 

27  De  majoribus  gentis  nostrae  349 

28  De  adventu  Scotorum  in  Britanniam  351. 

29  De  etimo  nominis  353 


1  The  figures  in  this  Index  represent  pages  of  the  manuscript  as  shown  in  the 
margins. — ED. 

VOL.  II.  2s 


642  INDEX  REGIONUM 

30  De  Anthropophagia  354 

31  De  origine  gentis.  355 

32  Anent  the  government  of  Scotland  before  the  troubles   357 

33  Descriptiones  Latinse  lmo  Ad  Tabulam  Fifse  369 

34  Cathenesia,  Strathnavernia.  Rossia,  Sutherlandia  375 

35  Descriptio  Rossise  377 

36  Assynt  378 

37  Southerlandise    descriptio    per     Ro.     Gordoun    a 

Gordounstoun  382 

38  Cathenesise  descriptio  386 

39  Strathnavernae  descriptio  390 

40  Edir-da-Cheulis  392 

41  Moravise  descriptio  393. 

42  Southerlandise  chorographica  descriptio  404. 

43  Abredoniae  utriusc^  descriptio  autore  I.G.  412 

44  Abredonia  Vetus  428 

45  Notes   and    observations   of    divers   parts   of    the 

Hielaiid  and  Isles.  434 

46  Anent  the  lenths  of  Scotland  ibid 

47  Cowell.  435 

48  Lochaw  436 

49  Knapdaill  438 

50  Lome  ibid 

51  Mucarne  439 

52  Appin  440 

53  Lismoir,  Durrour  441 

54  Glencoen,  Mamoir  Innerlochy  Glen-neves  442 

55  Lochlochy,  Lochargaig,  Glenluy  443 

56  Spean  or  Speachan,  Argour  444 

57  Keangearloch,  Morvern,  Swyneord  445 

58  Ardna  Murchen,  Muydeort,  Arisaig.  Murrours  446 

59  Knodeart,  Loch  Owrin,  Loch  Traig.  Glengarry  447 

60  Abirtarf,    Lochness,     Glenmoristen,     Urquhattin, 

StrathErigig.  449 

61  Knodeord,  Glen  Elge  450 

62  Kilberry  castill,  Skeipness,  Borlum,  Glensaidill.  451 

63  Avon  Isle,  Glenbreagrie,  Mull  of  Cantyr  Kearera         452 
54    Cola,  Eig,  Ilan  na  Muick,  Rum,  Canna,  Barray,  453. 
65    Viist,  454 


INDEX  REGIONUM  643 

66  Heisker,  Haray 

67  Skie  or  Skianach,  Strahuardill,  Brahairport  &< 
Drointernes  fourscoir  merkland.  Lewis 

69  Glendochart, 

70  GlenLochay 

71  Glen-Urquhy  JJJ 
In  the  Lennox  upon  the  Loch  Lomundsyd 

73  Noats  of  distances  of  places  about  the  head  of 

Lochtay  &c.  463 

74  Ross  and  the  parts  therof  out  of  Tim.  Pont  464 

75  Loch  Ew  and  Letyr-Ew 

76  Loch  Grunord,  Avon  Brechak  4gg 

77  Loch  Bruyne  or  Wruyne.  Glen  Elcheg.  Kantell. 

78  Avonloing,  Loch  Awich,  Loch  Monery,  Loch  Aelsh    468 

79  Glen-elg.  4fic) 

80  Keantill  ^ 

81  Assyn  471 

82  Coggach,  Stra  Okell.  47^ 

83  Stra  Charroun  473 

84  West  Carroun  upon  the  west  sea.  475 

85  Glen-moris-den,  and  the  Marches  of  the  bordering 

lands  476 

86  Aird.  477 

87  Urwhoddin,  Connell  or  Conen  River  478 

88  Stra  Farror.  draught  of  a  river.  480 

89  Ardmeanach  and  Seats  therein.  481 

90  Seats  betwix  Stra  Arkegg  and  Innerness  484 

91  Seats  in  Abirtarff  in  Stra  Arkegg  484 

92  Seats  in  Stra  Nairne,  and  Pettye  both  in  Murray  486 

93  Seats  in  Stra  Erin  in  Murray  487 

94  Strath  Navern  488 

95  Glenlyon  491 

96  Coryes  and  Sheels  in  Glenlyon  492 

97  Of  Braid  Allaban  494 

98  Places  about  the  head  of  Loch  Erin  495 

99  Stra  Gartnay  495 

100  The  draught  of  Charroun  and  Okell  rivers  498 

101  Of  Rennach.  Coryes,  burns,  lochs  and  sheels  therin     500. 

102  Of  Stormonth  East  and  West  501 


644  INDEX  REGIONUM 

103  OfBadenach  503 

104  Notes  of  Lennox  and  Sterlingshyr  510 

105  Isle  of  Skiana  or  Skie  514 

106  Distances  in  Carrict  and  therabout  517 

107  Distances  of  divers  places  518 

108  Kyle  rivers  and  dwellings  upon  them  519 
109.  Irvyng  river  521 

110  Cuningham,  rivers  and  dwellings  theron  522 

111  Distances  in  the  firth  of  Clyd  524 

112  Divers  distances  of  places  and  lenths  of  rivers  525 

113  Noates  of  distances  for  Badenoch.  528 

114  Noates  about  St.  Jhonstoun  and  in  Strath  Ern  528 

115  Of  Rennach  Mr.  T.  Pont.  Koryes  in  Rennach  529 

1 16  Of  Buwhiddyr.  Of  Braid  Albayne  531 

117  Of  Appin  Dow  upon  Tay  532. 

118  Somwhat  of  the  height  of  Badenoch  about  Loch 

Lagan  532. 

119.  Of  Monygegg  533. 

120  Of  Assyn  and  the  Western  part  of  Ross  534. 

121  Of  Loch  Lomond  and  the  Yles  therein  535. 

122  Divers  distances  14  Januar  1646  Lennox  Sterlin- 

shyre  &c.  538 

123  Divers  distances  sent  out  of  the  soutli  Febr.  1646  541. 

124  Stratheiren  in  Murrey  and  Lochmuy  542. 

125  The  back  of  the  Ochells  and  Allon  River  544. 

126  Seats  upon  the  bounds  betwix  Ainrik,  Blayne  and 

Forth.  545. 

127  The  Strath  of  Monteeth  and  Northsyd  of  Gudy  546. 

128  Sum  what  of  Glengyle,  Glen  Maen,  Glenfinglas  549. 

129.  Provincise  Edinburgena?  descriptio  550 

130.  Edinburgi  descriptio.  561 

NOTE. — On  p.  427  areas  subdiales  is  translated  on  p.  456  as  open-air  threshing- 
floors,  and  may  possibly  mean  stack-yards. — ED. 


END    OF    VOLUME    II. 


Printed  by  T.  and  A.  CONSTABLE,  Printers  to  His  Majesty 
at  the  Edinburgh  University  Press 


THE    EXECUTIVE. 

1906-1907. 

President. 
THE  EARL  OF  ROSEBERY,  K.G.,  K.T.,  LL.D. 

Chairman  of  Council. 
DAVID  MASSON,  LL.D.,  Historiographer  Royal  for  Scotland. 


Right  Rev.  JOHN  DOWDEN,  D.D.,  Bishop  of  Edinburgh. 
ROBERT  FITZROY  BELL,  Advocate. 
,G.  M.  PAUL,  D.K.S. 
DONALD  CRAWFORD,  K.C. 
RALPH  RICHARDSON,  W.S. 
J.  MAITLAND  THOMSON,  LL.D.,  Advocate, 
P.  HUME  BROWN,  M.A.,  LL.D.,  Professor  of  Ancient  History 

and  Palaeography  in  the  University  of  Edinburgh. 
Sir  ARTHUR  MITCHELL,  K.C.B.,  M.D.,  LL.D. 
A.  FRANCIS  STEUART,  Advocate. 
Sir  THOMAS  GIBSON  CARMICHAEL,  Bart. 
JOHN  RANKINE,  K.C.,  LL.D.,  Professor  of  Scots  Law  in  the 

University  of  Edinburgh. 
Sir  JAMES  BALFOUR  PAUL,  Lyon  King  of  Arms. 

Corresponding  Members  of  the  Council. 

Prof.  C.  H.  FIRTH,  LL.D.,  Oxford;    Rev.  W.  D.  MACRAY,  Oxford  ; 
Prof.  C.  SANFORD  TERRY,  Aberdeen. 

Hon.  Treasurer. 
J.  T.  CLARK,  Crear  Villa,  196  Ferry  Road,  Edinburgh. 

Hon.  Secretary. 
D.  HAY  FLEMING,  LL.D.,  4  Chamberlain  Road,  Edinburgh. 


RULES 

1.  THE  object  of  the  Society  is  the  discovery  and  printing, 
under   selected    editorship,    of  unpublished    documents   illus- 
trative of  the  civil,  religious,  and  social  history  of  Scotland. 
The  Society  will  also  undertake,  in  exceptional  cases,  to  issue 
translations  of  printed  works  of  a  similar  nature,  which  have 
not  hitherto  been  accessible  in  English. 

2.  The  number  of  Members  of  the  Society  shall  be  limited 
to  400. 

3.  The  affairs  of  the  Society  shall  be  managed  by  a  Council, 
consisting   of  a    Chairman,  Treasurer,   Secretary,  and   twelve 
elected  Members,  five  to  make  a  quorum.    Three  of  the  twelve 
elected  Members  shall  retire  annually  by  ballot,  but  they  shall 
be  eligible  for  re-election. 

4.  The  Annual  Subscription  to  the  Society  shall  be  One 
Guinea.     The  publications  of  the  Society  shall  not  be  delivered 
to    any    Member   whose    Subscription    is    in    arrear,   and   no 
Member  shall  be  permitted  to  receive  more  than  one  copy  of 
the  Society's  publications. 

5.  The  Society  will  undertake  the  issue  of  its  own  publica- 
tions, i.e.  without  the  intervention  of  a  publisher  or  any  other 
paid  agent. 

6.  The  Society  will  issue  yearly  two  octavo  volumes  of  about 
320  pages  each. 

7.  An  Annual  General  Meeting  of  the  Society  shall  be  held 
at  the  end  of   October,  or   at   an    approximate   date  to  be 
determined  by  the  Council. 

8.  Two  stated  Meetings  of  the  Council  shall  be  held  each 
year,  one  on  the  last  Tuesday  of  May,  the  other  on  the  Tues- 
day preceding  the  day  upon  which  the  Annual  General  Meeting 
shall  be  held.     The  Secretary,  on  the  request  of  three  Members 
of  the  Council,  shall  call  a  special  meeting  of  the  Council. 

9.  Editors  shall  receive  20  copies  of  each  volume  they  edit 
for  the  Society. 

10.  The  owners  of  Manuscripts  published  by  the  Society  will 
also  be  presented  with  a.  certain  number  of  copies. 

11.  The  Annual  Balance-Sheet,  Rules,  and  List  of  Members 
shall  be  printed. 

12.  No  alteration  shall  be  made  in  these  Rules  except  at  a 
General  Meeting  of  the  Society.     A  fortnight's  notice  of  any 
alteration  to  be  proposed  shall  be  given  to  the  Members  of  the 
Council. 


PUBLICATIONS 

OF   THE 

SCOTTISH    HISTORY    SOCIETY 

For  the  year  1886-1887. 

1.  BISHOP  POCOCKE'S  TOURS  IN  SCOTLAND,  1747-1760.     Edited  by 
D.  W.  KEMP. 

2.  DIARY  AND  ACCOUNT  BOOK  OF  WILLIAM  CUNNINGHAM  OF  CRAIG- 
ENDS,  1673-1680.     Edited  by  the  Rev.  JAMES  DODDS,  D.D. 

For  the  year  1887-1888. 

3.  GRAMEIDOS  LIBRI  SEX  :    an  heroic  poem  on  the  Campaign  of 

1689,  by   JAMES    PHILIP   of  Almerieclose.       Translated  and 
Edited  by  the  Rev.  A.  D.  MURDOCH. 

4.  THE  REGISTER  OF  THE  KIRK-SESSION  OF  ST.  ANDREWS.     Part  i. 

1559-1582.     Edited  by  D.  HAY  FLEMING. 

For  the  year  1888-1889. 

5.  DIARY   OF  THE  REV.  JOHN  MILL,  Minister  in  Shetland,  1740- 

1803.     Edited  by  GILBERT  GOUDIE. 

6.  NARRATIVE  OF  MR.  JAMES  NIMMO,  A  COVENANTER,  1654-1709. 

Edited  by  W.  G.  SCOTT-MONCRIEFF. 

7.  THE  REGISTER  OF  THE  KIRK-SESSION  OF  ST.  ANDREWS.     Part  n 

1583-1600.     Edited  by  D.  HAY  FLEMING. 

For  the  year  1889-1890. 

8.  A  LIST  OF  PERSONS  CONCERNED  IN  THE  REBELLION  (1745).    With 

a  Preface  by  the  EARL  OF  ROSEBERY. 

Presented  to  the  Society  by  the  Earl  of  Kosebc.ry. 

9.  GLAMFS  PAPERS:  The  '  BOOK  OF  RECORD,'  a  Diary  written  by 

PATRICK,  FIRST  EARL  OF  STRATHMORE,  and  other  documents 
(1684-89).     Edited  by  A.  H.  MILLAR. 

10.  JOHN  MAJOR'S  HISTORY  OF  GREATER  BRITAIN  (1521).     Trans- 
lated and  edited  by  ARCHIBALD  CONSTABLE. 


4  PUBLICATIONS 

For  the  year  1890-1891. 

11.  THE  RECORDS  OF  THE  COMMISSIONS  OF  THE  GENERAL  ASSEMBLIES, 

1646-47.     Edited  by  the  Rev.  Professor  MITCHELL,  D.D.,  and 
the  Rev.  JAMES  CHRISTIE,  D.D. 

12.  COURT-BOOK  OF   THE   BARONY  OF    LJRiE,    1 604-1747.      Edited 

by  the  Rev.  D.  G.  BARROX. 

For  the  year  1891-1892. 

13.  MEMOIRS   OF    SIR   JOHN    CLERK   OF  PENICUIK,   Baronet.      Ex- 
tracted by  himself  from  his  own  Journals,  1676-1755.     Edited 
by  JOHN  M.  GRAY. 

14.  DIARY  OF  COL.  THE  HON.  JOHN  ERSKINE  OF  CARNOCK,   1683- 

1687.     Edited  by  the  Rev.  WALTER  MACLEOD. 

For  the  year  1892-1893. 

15.  MISCELLANY  OF  THE  SCOTTISH  HISTORY  SOCIETY,  First  Volume — 
THE  LIBRARY  OF  JAMES  vi.,  1573-83.     Edited  by  G.  F.  Warner.— 

DOCUMENTS  ILLUSTRATING  CATHOLIC  POLICY,  1596-98.  T.  G.  Law. 
— LETTERS  OF  SIR  THOMAS  HOPE,  1627-46.  Rev.  R.  Paul. — CIVIL 
WAR  PAPERS,  1643-50.  H.  F.  Morland  Simpson. — LAUDERDALE 
CORRESPONDENCE,  1660-77.  Right  Rev.  John  Dowden,  D.D. — 
TURN-BULL'S  DIARY,  1657-1704.  Rev.  R.  Paul. — MASTERTON 
PAPERS,  1660-1719.  V.  A.  Noel  Paton.  — ACCOMPT  OF  EXPENSES 
IN  EDINBURGH,  1715.  A.  H.  Millar. — REBELLION  PAPERS,  1715 
and  1745.  H.  Patou. 

16.  ACCOUNT  BOOK  OF  SIR  JOHN  FOULIS  OF  RAVELSTON  (1671-1707). 

Edited  by  the  Rev.  A.  W.  CORNELIUS  H  ALLEN. 

For  the  year  1893-1894. 

17.  LETTERS  AND    PAPERS    ILLUSTRATING   THE   RELATIONS    BETWEEN 

CHARLES    n.    AND    SCOTLAND    IN    1650.      Edited    by   SAMUEL 
RAWSON  GARDINER,  D.C.L.,  etc. 

18.  SCOTLAND   AND   THE    COMMONWEALTH.       LETTERS   AND    PAPERS 

RELATING  TO  THE  MILITARY  GOVERNMENT  OF  SCOTLAND,  Aug. 
1651— Dec.  1653.     Edited  by  C.  H.  FIRTH,  M.A. 

For  the  year  1894-1895. 
19-  THE  JACOBITE  ATTEMPT  OF  1719-     LETTERS  OF  JAMES,  SECOND 

DUKE  OF  ORMONDE.     Edited  by  W.  K.  DICKSON. 
20,  21.  THE  LYON  IN   MOURNING,  OR  A  COLLECTION  OF  SPEECHES, 

LETTERS,  JOURNALS,  ETC.,  RELATIVE  TO  THE  AFFAIRS  OF  PRINCE 

CHARLES    EDWARD    STUART,   by   BISHOP    FORBES.      1746-1775. 

Edited  by  HENRY  PATON.     Vols.  i.  and  n. 


PUBLICATIONS  5 

For  the  year  1895-1896. 

22.  THE  LYON  IN  MOURNING.     Vol.  m. 

23.  ITINERARY  OF  PRINCE   CHARLES  EDWARD  (Supplement  to  the 

Lyon  in  Mourning).     Compiled  by  W.  B.  BLAIKIE. 

24.  EXTRACTS  FROM  THE  PRESBYTERY   RECORDS  OF  INVERNESS  AND 

DINGWALL  FROM  1638  TO  1688.     Edited  by  WILLIAM  MACKAY. 
•25.   RECORDS    OF    THE    COMMISSIONS    OF   THE  GENERAL   ASSEMBLIES 
(continued]  for  the  years  164S  and  1649.     Edited  by  the  Rev. 
Professor  MITCHELL,  D.D.,  and  Rev.  JAMES  CHRISTIE,  D.D. 

For  the  year  1896-1897. 
•26.  WARISTON'S  DIARY  AND  OTHER  PAPERS — 

JOHNSTON  OF  WABISTON'S  DIARY,  1639.  Edited  by  G.  M.  Paul.— 
THE  HONOURS  OF  SCOTLAND,  1651-52.  C.  R.  A.  Howden.— THE 
EARL  OF  MAR'S  LEGACIES,  1722, 1726.  Hon.  S.  Erskine.— LETTERS 
BY  MRS.  GRANT  OF  LAGGAN.  J.  R.  N.  Macphail. 

Presented  to  the  Society  by  Messrs.  T.  and  A.  Constable. 
•"27.  MEMORIALS    OF    JOHN    MURRAY    OF    BROUGHTON,     1740-1747. 
Edited  by  R.  FITZROY  BELL. 

28.  THE   COMPT    BUIK   OF   DAVID   WEDDERBURNE,    MERCHANT    or 

DUNDEE,  1587-1630.     Edited  by  A.  H.  MILLAR. 

For  the  year  1897-1898. 

29,  30.  THE  CORRESPONDENCE  OF  DE  MONTEREUL  AND  THE  BROTHERS 

DE  BELLIEVRE,  FRENCH  AMBASSADORS  IN  ENGLAND  AND  SCOT- 
LAND,    1645-1648.       Edited,    with     Translation,    by   J.    G. 

FOTHERINGHAM.       2  Vols. 

For  the  year  1898-1899. 

31.  SCOTLAND    AND    THE    PROTECTORATE.      LETTERS    AND     PAPERS 

RELATING    TO    THE    MILITARY    GOVERNMENT  OF    SCOTLAND,    FROM 

JANUARY  1654  TO  JUNE  1659.     Edited  by  C.  H.  FIRTH,  M.A. 

32.  PAPERS  ILLUSTRATING  THE  HISTORY  OF  THE  SCOTS  BRIGADE  IN 
THE     SERVICE    OF    THE     UNITED     NETHERLANDS,     1572-1782. 
Edited  by  JAMES  FERGUSON.    Vol.  i.  1572-1697. 

33.  34.     MACFARLANE'S    GENEALOGICAL    COLLECTIONS    CONCERNING 
FAMILIES  IN  SCOTLAND  ;  Manuscripts  in  the  Advocates'  Library. 
2  vols.    Edited  by  J.  T.  CLARK,  Keeper  of  the  Library. 

Presented  to  the  Society  by  the  Trustees  of  the  late  Sir  William  Eraser,  K.C.B. 


6  PUBLICATIONS 

For  the  year  1899-1 900. 

35.  PAPERS    ON    THE    SCOTS    BRIGADE    IN    HOLLAND,    1572-1782. 
Edited  by  JAMES  FERGUSON.    Vol.  11.  16*98-1782.     (Nov.  1899.)- 

36.  JOURNAL  OF  A  FOREIGN  TOUR  IN  l6'6'5  AND  1666,  AND  PORTIONS  OF 

OTHER  JOURNALS,  BY  SIR  JOHN  LAUDER,  LORD  FOUNTAINHALL. 
Edited  by  DONALD  CRAWFORD.  (May  1900.) 

37.  PAPAL  NEGOTIATIONS  WITH  MARY  QUEEN  OF  SCOTS  DURING  HER 
REIGN  IN    SCOTLAND.       Chiefly  from    the    Vatican    Archives. 
Edited  by  the  Rev.  J.  HUNGERFORD  POLLEN,  S.J.     (Nov.  1901.) 

For  the  year  1900-1901. 

38.  PAPERS    ON    THE    SCOTS    BRIGADE    IN    HOLLAND,     1572-1782. 
Edited  by  JAMES  FERGUSON.     Vol.  in.      1.   Rotterdam  Papers: 
2.  The  Remembrance,   a  Metrical  Account  of  the  War   in 
Flanders,  1701-12,  by  JOHN  SCOT,  Soldier.  (July  1901.) 

39.  THE    DIARY    OF    ANDREW     HAY    OF     CRAIGNETHAN,    1 659-60. 

Edited  by  A.  G.  REID,  F.S.A.Scot.  (Nov.  1901.) 

For  the  year  1901-1902. 

40.  NEGOTIATIONS  FOR  THE  UNION  OF  ENGLAND   AND  SCOTLAND  IN 

1651-53.     Edited  by  C.  SANFORD  TERRY.  (March  1902.) 

41.  THE  LOYALL  DISSUASIVE.      Memorial  to  the  Laird  of  Cluny  in 

Badenoch.     Written    in    1703,   by    Sir    ^ENEAS    MACPHERSON. 
Edited  by  the  Rev.  A.  D.  MURDOCH.  (July  1902.)^ 

For  the  year  1902-1903. 

42.  THE  CHARTULARY  OF  LINDORES,  1195-1479-      Edited  from  the 

original  MS.  at  Caprington  Castle,  Kilmarnock,  by  the  Right 
Rev.  JOHN  DOWDEN,  D.D.,  Bishop  of  Edinburgh.   (July  1903.) 

43.  A  LETTER  FROM  MARY  QUEEN  OF  SCOTS  TO  THE  DUKE  OF  GUISE, 

Jan.  1562.  Reproduced  in  Facsimile  from  the  Original  MS.  in 
the  possession  of  the  late  JOHN  SCOTT,  of  Halkshill,  Esq.,  C.B. 
Edited,  with  historical  Introduction  and  Appendix  of  original 
illustrative  Documents,  by  the  Rev.  J.  HUNGERFORD  POLLEN,. 
S.J.  (Jan.  1904.)' 

Presented  to  the  Society  by  the  family  of  the  Me  Mr.  Scott,  of  Halkshill. 


PUBLICATIONS  7 

44.  MISCELLANY  OF  THE  SCOTTISH  HISTORY  SOCIETY,  Second  Volume— 

THE  SCOTTISH  KING'S  HOUSEHOLD,  14th  Century.  Edited  by  Mary 
Bateson. — THE  SCOTTISH  NATION  IN  THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  OHM  \N~. 
1336-1538.  John  Kirkpatrick,  LL.D.— THE  FRENCH  G.\UKI>OX 
ATDUNBAR,  1503.  Robert  S.  Rait.— DE  ANTIQUITATK  KI:U«.IOM> 
APUD  SCOTOS,  1594.  Henry  D.  G.  Law.— APOLOGY  n.u  WILLIAM 
MAITLAND  OF  LETHINGTON,  1610.  Andrew  Laiig.— LKTTER-  <n 
BISHOP  GEORGE  GRAEME,  1602-38.  L.  G.  Grame.— A  Srom-.ii 
JOURNIE,  1641.  C.  H.  Firth.— NARRATIVES  ILLUSTRATING  THE  DUKE 

OF  HAMILTON'S  EXPEDITION  TO  ENGLAND,  1048.     C.   H.  Firth. 

BURNET-LEIGHTON  PAPERS,  1648-168-.  H.  C.  Foxcroft— PAPERS 
OP  ROBERT  ERSKINE,  Physician  to  Peter  the  Great,  1077-1720. 
Rev.  Robert  Paul. — WILL  OP  THE  DUCHESS  OF  ALBANY,  1789. 
A.  Francis  Steuart.  (Feb.  1904.) 

45.  LETTERS  OF  JOHN  COCKBURN  OF  ORMISTOUN  TO  HIS  GARDENER, 

1727-1743.    Edited  by  JAMES  COLVILLE,  D.Sc.     (March  1904.) 

For  the  year  1903-1904. 

46.  MINUTE   BOOK  OF  THE  MANAGERS  OF  THE  NEW  MILLS  CLOTH 

MANUFACTORY,  1 68 1-1690.  Edited  by  W.  R.  SCOTT,  Lecturer 
on  Political  Economy  in  St.  Andrews  University.  (Jan.  1905.) 
47-  CHRONICLES  OF  THE  FRASERS;  being  the  Wardlaw  Manuscript 
entitled  '  Polichronicon  seu  Policratica  Temporum,  or,  the 
true  Genealogy  of  the  Erasers.'  By  Master  JAMES  FRASER. 
Edited,  from  the  original  MS.  in  possession  of  the  Trustees  of 
the  late  Sir  Wm.  Augustus  Eraser,  Bart.,  by  WILLIAM  MACKAY, 
Inverness.  (Feb.  1905.) 

48.  THE  RECORDS  OF  THE  PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  JUSTICIARY  COURT 

FROM  1661  TO  1678.  Vol.  i.  1661-1669.  Edited,  from  the 
MS.  in  possession  of  Mr.  John  W.  Weston,  by  Sheriff  SCOTT- 
MONCRIEFF.  (July  1905.) 

For  the  year  1904-1905. 

49.  THE  RECORDS  OF  THE  PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  JUSTICIARY  COURT 

FROM  1661  TO  1678.  Vol.  ii.  1669-1678.  Edited,  from  the 
MS.  in  possession  of  Mr.  John  W.  Weston,  by  Sheriff  SCOTT- 
MONCRIEFF.  (Oct.  1905.) 

50.  RECORDS  OF  THE  BARON  COURT  OF  STITCHILL,  1655-1807.    Tran- 
scribed from  the  original  in  Stitchill  House,  Roxburghshire, 
by  the  late  Rev.  GEORGE  GUNN,  Minister  of  Stitchill.     Edited 
by  CLEMENT  B.  GUNN,  M.D.,  Peebles.  (Oct.  190.x) 

51.  MACFARLANE'S  GEOGRAPHICAL  COLLECTIONS.      Vol.   i.     Edited, 
from  the    MS.   in  the  Advocates'  Library,    by  Sir  ARTHUR 
MITCHELL,  K.C.B.  (April  1906.) 


8  PUBLICATIONS 

For  the  year  1905-1906. 

52,  53.  MACFARLANE'S  GEOGRAPHICAL  COLLECTIONS.  Vols.  n.  and  HI. 
Edited,  from  the  MS.  in  the  Advocates'  Library,  by  Sir 
ARTHUR  MITCHELL,  K.C.B. 

54.  STATUTA    ECCLESI.E    SCOTICATSLE,   1225-1559.      Translated  and 

edited  by  DAVID  PATRICK,  LL.D. 

For  the  year  1906-1907. 

55.  THE  CHARTERS  OF  THE  ABBEY  OF  INCHAFFRAY.    Edited  by  W.  A. 

LINDSAY,  K.C.,  and  the  Right  Rev.  Bishop  DOWDEN,  D.D. 

56.  THE  HOUSE  BOOKS  OF  ACCOMPTS,  OCHTERTYRE,  1737-39.    Edited, 

from  the  original  MS.,  in  the  possession  of  Sir  Patrick  Keith 
Murray,  by  JAMES  COLVILLE,  D.Sc. 

57.  A  SELECTION  OF  THE  FORFEITED  ESTATES  PAPERS  PRESERVED  IN 
H.M.  GENERAL  REGISTER  HOUSE  AND  ELSEWHERE.     Edited  by 
A.  H.  MILLAR. 

In  preparation. 

RECORDS  OF  THE  COMMISSIONS  OF  THE  GENERAL  ASSEMBLIES  (con- 
tinued}, for  the  years  1650-53.  Edited  by  the  Rev.  JAMES 
CHRISTIE,  D.D. 

SIR  THOMAS  CRAIG'S  DE  UNIONE  REGNORUM  BRITANNLE.  Edited, 
with  an  English  Translation,  by  DAVID  MASSON,  LL.D. 

RECORDS  RELATING  TO  THE  SCOTTISH  ARMIES  FROM  1638  TO  1650. 
Edited  by  C.  SANFORD  TERRY. 

ANALYTICAL  CATALOGUE  OF  THE  WODROW  COLLECTION  OF  MANU- 
SCRIPTS IN  THE  ADVOCATES'  LIBRARY.  Edited  by  J.  T.  CLARK. 

CHARTERS  AND  DOCUMENTS  RELATING  TO  THE  GREY  FRIARS  AND 
THE  CISTERCIAN  NUNNERY  OF  HADDINGTON. — REGISTER  OF  THE 
MONASTERY  OF  INCHCOLM.  Edited  by  J.  G.  WALLACE- 
JAMES,  M.B. 

REGISTER  OF  THE  CONSULTATIONS  OF  THE  MINISTERS  OF  EDINBURGH, 
AND  SOME  OTHER  BRETHREN  OF  THE  MINISTRY  SINCE  THE 
INTERRUPTION  OF  THE  ASSEMBLY  1653,  WITH  OTHER  PAPERS  OF 
PUBLIC  CONCERNMENT,  1 653-1 660. 

A  TRANSLATION  OF  THE  HISTORIA  ABBATUM  DE  KYNLOS  OF 
FERRERIUS,  together  with  some  inedited  Letters  of  the 
Author.  By  ARCHIBALD  CONSTABLE,  LL.D. 

RENTALE  SANCTI  ANDREW.  The  Household  Book  of  Cardinal 
Beaton,  1539-1545.  Edited,  from  the  MS.  in  the  Advocates' 
Library,  by  D.  HAY  FLEMING,  LL.D. 

PAPERS  RELATING  TO  THE  REBELLIONS  OF  1715  AND  1745,  with  other 
documents  from  the  Municipal  Archives  of  the  City  of  Perth. 


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