917.731
V58s
SECOND
BOOK
or
KORTH SHORE
HIGHWAYS
PAST AND PRESENT
LIBRARY OF THE
UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS
AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN
IN MEMORY OF
STEWART . HOWE
JOURNALISM CLASS OF 1928
STEWART S. HOWE FOUNDATION
91 7 . 731
W58S
I.H.S.
SECOND BOOK of the NORTH SHORE
Photo by Ben
THE HEIGHTS AT "MIRALAGO"
Highland Park. 111.
SECOND
BOOK of the NORTH SHORE
HOMES, GARDENS, LANDSCAPES
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS
PAST AND PRESENT
By MARIAN A. WHITE
.Author and Lecturer
CHAPEL TOWER
Lake Forest College
CHICAGO
J. HARRISON WHITE
1911
Price Two Dollars
Copyright. 191). by J. Harrison While
TO THE
PATRONS AND SUBSCRIBERS
WHO HAVE MADE
ITS PRODUCTION POSSIBLE
THIS BOOK
IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY
THE PUBLISHER
FOREWORD
The Treaty of Chicago, whereby the Indian, on the twentieth day
of September, eighteen hundred and thirty-three, ceded all that
remained of his birthright, in Illinois and Wisconsin, was consum-
mated on the North Shore. Therefore the "First Book of the North
Shore" (1910), naturally dwells upon the traditions and legends
associated with Chicago and this immediate environment. The
author, in the preparation of this earlier work, realized how much
of traditional interest, the "North Shore" in Lake County, possessed.
In the "Second Book of the North Shore" effort has been made to
tell its story. As a similar work on the highways and byways in the
same county, but a little more remote from the west shore line of the
Great Lake, is in contemplation, but brief mention is made of these
particular localities, and, only in so far as their traditions are closely
associated with those of Waukegan, Lake Forest and Highland Park.
In the first work, Cook County was largely represented. The present
work is also illustrative of the "present" in Glencoe, Hubbard Woods,
Kenilworth, Wilmette, Evanston, Birchwood, Rogers Park, Edge-
water, and Glen View. Later, the author hopes to feature the past
and present of Evanston in an illustrated work of like kind. "Out
of scraps and fragments, diamond dust of the past," must we link
together, not only that which is of import locally, but that which
shall swell the budget of tradition, nationally.
Page six
J. OGDEN ARMOUR'S SUMMER HOME
Lake Forest
Highways and Byways
Past and Present
THE HIGHWAY IS OPENED
Thou givest all
An equal chance to work, to do their best
Free land, free hand thy son must work or fall
Grow strong or die ! That message shrieks the storm-wind's call !
A. C. Laut
BEFORE the seventeenth century had rounded to maturity,
England and France were vieing with each other for territorial
aggrandizement in that newer country, far, far beyond the
Atlantic seaboard. The latter territory was still in the throes of
pioneer development, while that of the Great Lakes, the unexplored
region, became the land of romance, of heroic deeds, of new pleasures
and wealth in the imagination of those who were willing to brave
its hardships.
The church, too, was caught in the spirit of the age. Its mis-
sionaries, young men of learning and of unquenchable zeal, were
urged to join the various expeditions of exploration with a view to
converting the aborigines to the Faith. A brave and noble band were
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
these ambassadors of the Cross. How they struggled to gain con-
verts amid hardships inconceivable, as well as their sufferings from
exposure and fatigue, can better be imagined than described. Their
letters tell very little of these features of the expedition, so thoroughly
had self become absorbed in caring for others. Yet one may read
between the lines of these precious documents.
The Indians had brought to the traders of the Upper St. Lawrence
wonderful stories of a country in the vicinity of a Great River which
no white man had seen. Across seas spread this legend of the Mis-
sissippi Valley, and in due course, the highways and byways of river,
lake and wilderness trail became familiar to explorer, missionary,
voyageur, trader and adventurer, each and all urging their impetuous
way northward and westward. Advance or retreat, encouragement
or despair, according to the will or notion of the warring Indians
through whose territory they must of necessity pass; beset with
privations of every kind ; running the gauntlet of capture and torture
worse than death, undaunted and courageous to recklessness, passed
band after band of those wilderness pioneers, and messengers of the
story of the Cross from New France over the route which might bring
them to this Eldorado.
Nicolet, Groseillier and Radison, Joliet and Marquette, La Salle,
Tonty and Hennepin, each in due course making their way to Green
Bay, singly or in company, and from thence journeying to the west,
northwest and southwest, in their ambition to annex territory to the
New France that had established itself at Quebec, as well as for the
conversion of the aborigines to Christianity. Associated with each
and all of these names is an interesting amount of legend and tradi-
tion but partially told.
It is early Autumn and the year 1673. The wood-crested bluffs
of the shore north from the "Chicagou" are struggling to retain
pretentions of summer finery, while coquettishly appropriating frag-
ments of that regal splendor suggestive of the ripening season, that
imperceptibly melts into the rime of winter. Fair and fickle wert
thou, dear old woodlands! Even as today. Yet 'twixt thy changing
moods, through vistas that were fast telling the story of crumpled
leaf and wind-swept distances, on this particular Autumn day in
question, might be found an Indian watching the purpled billows
making sport of two frail canoes.
A moment before and his bow was taut ! But the graceful creature
now peacefully browsing in the depths of yon ravine, owes its present
immunity to the fact that its would-be slayer has become distraught
from suspicion. Cherished as one of the special gifts of "Manitou
the Mighty," the red man experiences feelings of resentment toward
the purposeful urging of two birch-bark canoes over his own particular
highway. Besides the merry chansons of the irrepressible coureurs
de bois, fall on his ear as if in defiance or challenge.
Among the occupants of the foremost canoe he singles out one
with darkly-bearded face, and notes with apprehension that a pair of
eagle eyes are keenly scanning the bluffs, while significant gesticula-
tions are made in the same direction. The throb of irritation, that
like an arrow pierced the bosom of the Indian, now yields to one of
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
less antagonism, as he becomes aware of a wasted and gaunt form
enveloped in a dark, travel-stained garment, being borne along by
the less boisterous movements of two engages, in the second canoe.
"Black Robe!" Yes, the Indian had already become familiar
with its significance, for not so many moons had waxed and waned
since a "Black Robe" (Father Allouez) had told to the Winnebagoes
in the northland the Story of One who had died to save. He was
a Pale Face, as was the Black Robe who brought the message. And
now a number of pale faces and another Black Robe are adown the
waterway bordered by the favorite hunting grounds! What does it
portend? The Indian soon learned.
Had the darkly-bearded man (Joliet) succeeded in conveying the
valuable memoranda and charts outlining this particular expedition
of exploration, the North Shore might be more rife with tradition and
legend than at present. How did its bluffs and dunes, its forests and
ravines, its inlets and sandy and pebbled beaches impress the first
white men who dared its mutable waters?
But the Lachine Rapids of the beautiful St. Lawrence hold within
their maw of turmoil and never-ceasing action the story we would
fain tell. Nothing in the way of discovery and exploration seems
difficult in these modern days of scientific acquirement, and if these
documents were on parchment and protected by skin covering, it is
not improbable that at some time in the future when the Lachine
Rapids come under the manipulation of engineers, bent on making
them navigable, that the lost documents will be found and in such
condition as to be of service to those interested.
Marquette, the gentle missionary, has left in his diary unmis-
takeable evidence of his voyage adown the North Shore in the autumn
of 1674. Two shelter places are clearly denned in this particular
vicinity in the neighborhood of what is now Lake Bluff and Evanston
(See "Book of North Shore", 1910). Two local historians claim the
present site of Waukegan as one of the shelter places on this particular
expedition to the Illini. This is not an improbable conclusion. The
band of Pottawattomies, in five canoes acting as escort, would be
familiar with the shore line and its advantageous inlets for rest and
shelter, as well as its immunity from unfriendly expressions on the
part of the natives. But the assertion that Marquette landed some-
where in the vicinity of what is now designated Waukegan, and from
thence journeyed over the inland trail to the mouth of the Chicago
river, has no foundation in fact.
True, the smaller band of Illini, whom he had suffered to accom-
pany him in four canoes, were not in favor of the water the Great
Lake in particular. They were not "canoe-men" in the same sense
as the Pottawattomies. Therefore, supposing the Illini to have sug-
gested the inland trail, the Pottawattomies, the all-powerful tribe in
this vicinity at that period, would have over-ruled the proposal, for
Marquette was not in condition, physically, to undergo the fatigue
attending this latter route.
The lake, in spite of stress of weather, seemed the more feasible,
for in his canoe the missionary might be borne along in reclining
position when fatigue necessitated that change. Again, Lake Mich-
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
Photo by Beniin
A TURN IN THE ROAD
Lake Forest, 111.
igan was then, as today, smiling in its azure bewitchingness one hour,
the next finding it the plaything of winds, which transform its placid
waters into heaving bulkheads, threatening dire destruction to all
craft caught within their power. And also as today, after a night of
storm and unrest, the sun rose fair and promising from the eastern
horizon, bestowing upon lake, bluff and woodlands a beneficence of
warmth and brightness like the smile of heaven itself.
So our early voyageurs took heart of grace, and, encouraged by
the trend of the wind to the westward, where the faraway prairies,
touched with the decorative effects of autumn, were waving their long
grasses in sea-like motion, and in phantasies of gold, amethyst and
crimson, launched their canoes on the sappharine waters, and again
missionary-explorer and his engages, as well as the two bands of
friendly disposed Indians, are gliding toward the mouth of the
" Chicagou."
The ice-floes of the same shore were braved by Father Claude
Allouez, in the winter season of 1676 and 1677. What a world of
tradition and romance might be wrought from the passing of this
second heroic soldier of the Cross adown our storm-lashed shores!
Father Allouez was no longer young. He had endured great hard-
ships among the Indians of Lake Superior previous to his first coming
to Green Bay. It was after Marquette, journeying northward on the
eastern shore of the Lake, was seized by illness, terminating in death,
that Allouez journeyed to the Illinois Indians, among whom he
worked until the coming of La Salle.
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
A VISTA IN THE LAKE PARK
Lake Forest, 111.
La Salle ! Another name with which to conjure in the legendary
and traditional of this particular vicinity. Scholar, gentleman,
explorer, La Salle became ambitious for his country's territorial
expansion. His imagination fired by the legends that reached him
of the vast, unexplored wilderness westward of the New France,
La Salle forced himself here, there and everywhere with the impetu-
osity of the whirlwind, so active, enthusiastic and intrepid was he in
urging the extension of French dominion in the New World. Link
his name with that of the devoted Tonty, with Hennepin, Membre
and a host of others, and a whole volume of tradition and legend
might be woven around this combination of church and state, of
political intrigue and treachery.
It was La Salic who first introduced to the waters of Lake Mich-
igan the forerunner of the white-winged craft that was later to skim
or plough its waters in the interest of commerce. More than dis-
courteous and lacking in hospitality was our dear old lake at this
particular period. It was nothing less than brutal in its treatment
of the frail, bird -like vessel that had come to it as a messenger of
promise. And somewhere, no one knows just where, the "Griffon"
(forty-five tons burden) fraught with La Salle's earnest hopes and
heavily laden with a cargo of valuable furs while on its return trip
eastward, battered and affrighted, sank, with broken pinions beneath
the relentless waters.
Six years have elapsed since the Indian beheld with mingled
emotions of curiosity and resentment the first invasion of the shore
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
Photo by Re
BROADLY SWEEPING RIGHT AND LEFT
Lake Forest, III.
line by the pale face. He had then been somewhat mollified by the
sight of the " Black Robe," the order which he had learned to respect.
Now a little to the northward and within shelter of the bluffs, the
members of another expedition have been forced to the beach by
stress of weather. Upon landing they discover signs of Indian
occupancy, although no red man is in sight. Appointing a guard
for the night the remainder of the company settle themselves for
sleep. But the sentinel (and who shall blame him?) screened himself
from the bitter chill and torrential downpour.
The Indians were watching, and when opportunity for a closer
investigation was afforded, they came silently down their accustomed
trail, and keeping closely within the shelter of the bluffs stealthily
approached the sleepers. Nearer and nearer they crept and closely
scanned the faces of the slumbering men. The rugged lineaments
and resolute expression of one of the number drew forth the exclama-
tion of "Big Chief!" The curiosity of the Indian has ultimately got
the better of his wonted wariness with the result that the band of
prowlers is discovered. The red men are encouraged to come for-
ward, and protestations of friendliness on their part are received by
La Salle and his men in good faith. Small gifts were bestowed upon
them and they departed.
The grey lines of dawn had no sooner tricked the eastern horizon,
than the members of the expedition awakened to the fact that they
had been the prey of thieves. La Salle knew the Indian character
and he acted accordingly. Followed by his men and the three friars
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
he took to the trail and seizing a young warrior held him as hostage
while he pushed his way toward the chief and boldly demanded the
return of the stolen articles, at the same time making him under-
stand that in the event of his request not being honored, the life of
the prisoner would be forfeited.
The Indians, conscious of the fact that they outnumbered the
white men, prepared to fight. What a moment for the intrepid
explorer and his little band! But fearless, and resolute, and with
guns in hand they faced more than a hundred yelling, whooping
savages, yet forbore from being the first to attack. The Indians,
surprised and doubtful, also hesitated to begin the fight. These pale
faces seemed to know no fear. So they resorted to a parley, whereby
most of the stolen articles were restored.
But the Indian of the North Shore had now become familiar with
another kind of pale face the fighting man, as well as with that
other "medicine man," the "Gray Robe." It is not so very long
before he feels the power and purpose of the one for whose imple-
ments of warfare he hungered and the earnestness and zeal of the
other. Then "Black Robe" and "Gray Robe" became associated in
his intelligence as "Long Robe," and he was never again quite as
interested in that Wonderful Story of the Cross. There were doubts
within, and fears without, and he began to look with suspicion upon
the pale face, whether he came in the garb of priest or trader, and
he rested his hopes in his own Manitou, regardless of the self-sacrificing
lives of the two orders of missionaries that strove to bring his people
within the Christian fold.
THE STONE GATE
Lake Forest
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Photo by Be:
APPROACH TO THE ONWENTSIA CLUB
Lake Forest, 111.
GLIMPSES OF LAKE COUNTY
"We pluck from the vines they set ;
We walk in the ways they made ;
We harvest their fields ; and their forests yet
Are giving us rest and shade.
The fathers the men of old
Who builded a place for us,
A country magnificent ; brave and bold
In their faith all glorious."
IN the early period of its political history, Lake County was a
part of Cook County; that is it was in the Chicago precinct or
election district. September, 1835, the county commissioners of
Cook, created a new precinct which comprised most of the territory
north of Chicago, naming it the Lake Precinct. March first, 1839,
by act of the general assembly, the boundaries and distinguishing title
were bestowed on what is now known as Lake County. It received
its designation from the fact that its whole eastern boundary is
denned by the Great Lake as well as in consideration of its territory
about 460 square miles embracing a number of smaller lakes, forty
of which were familiar at the time, the number since discovered and
acknowledged, reaching the hundred mark.
Little is known of the ancient people that possessed this charm-
ing section of inland lakes, of rich forest growth, and undulating
stretches of open prairie. The Mound Builders were here, but they,
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
as the Indian, had no written language, therefore the little tradition
gathered from their occupancy has been through the excavation of a
few mounds which have yielded relics of much interest to the student
of archaeology. That this pre-historic people were superior to our
aboriginal, even as the latter is of inferior race to the white man,
there is little doubt, and that Lake County was a favorite territory
of the Indian, we are sure. Game was here in abundance; lakes and
streams furnished a variety of fish, while the marshes became the
breeding places of a variety of waterfowl. Our red brother preyed
upon these as a means of sustenance, as well as to obtain skin for
clothing, so when the first settlers came, they, too, found game, fish
and fowl in rich variety.
Prairie and forest were penetrated by a network of byways that
intimated a direct route to some given point. Perhaps a war trail
pushed itself directly in the vicinity of a hostile tribe. Later, the
same trail designated the most direct route to the cabin of hunter
or trader, or to some small settlement of the pale face. Other trails
were the outcome of the chase, certain pathways through forest or
woodland, or over undulating prairie, designating the habitual route
of the tribe when on a hunting expedition. There were trails exempli-
fying the migratory spirit of whole villages, for parallel with the
moccasined-patted footpath were the deeply indented traces of the
tepee sticks.
Through the intricate forest ways the Indian would frequently
twist or bend the lithe branches of a young sapling in such form
that it would ultimately grow and show a marked difference from
anything of neighboring development, thereby designating a particular
route which would afterward become a known trail. The white oak
and the white elm trees seem to have been selected along the North
Shore for this purpose.
A few of these trail trees remain. Some of the early settlers
recognized them as landmarks of import so made an effort toward
their preservation. Others, and these were in the majority, con-
sidered them freaks of nature, or "deformed trees," and so destroyed
them. The ax was the most useful of implements to the pioneer,
but he did not always wield it judiciously. Historical landmarks
were destroyed, and highways and byways unnecessarily denuded of
that which he could never hope to replace.
With regard to the Indian trails in Lake County Hon. C. A. Part-
ridge, who was brought to this region by his parents when but a child
of twelve months, and who is now in the ripening years of an honor-
able and useful life, and after becoming personally familiar with the
trend of these byways of the past, says the "red man without
scientific instruments and with no knowledge of the surveyor's art,
in a country dotted with lakes and sloughs, laid out long routes of
travel in a way to avoid and pass between the numerous undrained
ponds and marshes, and yet allow travel in a straight line."
In 1835 one of the oldest of these trails on the North Shore, under
the supervision of General Scott, U. S. A., was converted into a high-
way for military purposes, thus linking "Little Fort" (Waukegan),
Green Bay and Chicago. This highway is still known as the Green
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HIGHWAY S AND BYWAYS PAST AND P RESENT
Bay Road, and its greatest charm and picturesqueness lies within
the boundaries of Lake County.
Soon after the evolution of the old trail into that of a military
road, a plank road pushed its way westward and northward, also
over a byway of the past, from Chicago into Lake County, where in
the neighborhood of Indian Creek it crossed the Des Plaines and
united with the Green Bay Road about a mile north of Libertyville.
In less than a year this latter road became a stage route, and though
the vehicle used was nothing but a common lumber wagon it received
added dignity in being drawn by four horses, and as pioneer repre-
sentative of the United States Mail service through Lake County.
Previous to this, mail had been carried by runners between Chicago
and Green Bay, over the old historic trail before mentioned.
On the arrival of the first settlers in Lake County, the Indian
realized his day of doom was at hand, so he peacefully acquiesced in
the new order. True, he caused the pioneer settler some discomfort
by tenaciously hovering in the vicinity of farm or cabin, and per-
chance, appropriating that upon which he had set his fancy, but as
a rule he was orderly and inclined to be peaceful, except when under
the influence of the white man's "fire water." The final treaty by
which the Indians ceded their right to this particular territory had
not been consummated when the first settlers came to the county,
and in spite of the warnings issued by the government, a few daring
pioneers staked claims while the Indian was still the lawful possessor
of the land. By this time the red man had become somewhat pro-
ficient in the use of firearms, his children alone using bow and arrow.
So products of the chase became objects of trade and barter between
himself and the earlier white settlers. The latter found some prim-
itive attempts at cultivation of the soil, and corn, squashes and beans
were struggling for mastery under these crude conditions of fanning.
By 1839 the Indian title was extinguished and the tribes were
gradually coralled into reservations beyond the Mississippi. As in
previous history the red man's abandonment of territory meant the
white man's settlement thereon, and Lake County proved no excep-
tion to this rule. The white man, as the Indian, preferred the vicinity
of rivers and streams, so the first real influx of settlers to Lake County
selected the banks of the Des Plaines river which traverses the county
from north to south at an average distance of six miles west of the
Great Lake. The French explorers designated this river in the old
maps as "Aux Plaines," while later it became localized on modern
maps as "O'Plain." In early times it had gone by the name of the
Des Plaines River, signifying river of the plains, while to the Indian
it had been familiar as the " She-shick-ma-wish-sip-pe, " meaning
"soft maple tree river."
There was a number of creeks in this vicinity, all of which were
distinguished by Indian names of significance, and those which have
not been dried up by evaporation, or by drainage, still preserve the
Anglo-Saxonized interpretation of the aboriginal title. One may
roam throughout this region today, wondering if tradition is not
playing him false in its assertion that here in the long and yet not
so very long ago (1836), a boat was rowed and poled up the north
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H I r. H \V A V S A \ I) B Y \V A Y S P A S T AN D P R K RENT
branch of the Chicago River to its source the Dady Slough a little
west of the present site of Waukegan.
This boat resolved itself into a sort of relief expedition, its cargo
consisting of thirty bushels of potatoes and other badly needed sup-
plies for the families of the settlers. So far as can be learned, in the
person of Jacob Miller was combined that of captain and crew, pro-
prietor and sole occupant of the pioneer river-boat that pushed its
way over the birch-bark-canoe byway of the Indian. And it speaks
well for the peaceful attitude of the Indian at this time, who, it will
be remembered, was still the "lawful possessor of the land," that
the courageous pale face reached his ultimate destiny without let or
hindrance and with his scalp still safe under his twist of red handker-
chief. It is a pity that Jacob Miller left no detailed account of this
expedition. Yet, tramping beside parts of this water-course today,
one realizes some of the difficulties encountered by this intrepid boat-
man, whose name and that of his descendants figure largely and
honorably in the history and evolution of Lake County.
Legends of the importance of grist mills and saw mills, keeping
parts of this same waterway busy and excited in its pioneer work
of turning the old type of waterwheel, are many. Today these
designated sites show either a dwindling, lifeless stream, or a sinuous
trail of stagnant water, by courtesy, designated "river," that has
neither current nor power sufficient to float a toy boat or turn a
bauble wheel. But communities have grown and flourished here,
and today, smiling farmlands and enterprising cities and villages all
bear evidence of that which is up-to-date and progressive, while still
retaining that subtle charm of an interesting and historic yesterday.
The next desirable location for the early settlers proved to be
the territory adjacent to and in the immediate vicinity of the old
trail. Here, on the Green Bay Road, in the early forties, a scattering
of pioneers might be found whose acres trended toward the lovely
valley westward, or eastward toward the beautifully timbered por-
tions nearer the lake. In the aeons that have come and gone, long
before the coming of the Mound Builders and the Indian, this ridge,
according to students of archaeology, was the boundary of the lake
itself. So in the early history of Lake County this former bluff that
had in the infinite ages of which there is no record, defined the
boundary of the waters which are now a mile or more distant from
it, and over which the prairie grasses waved and the lordly forest
trees towered, in the early forties of the last century, is found the
pioneer home-builder.
In these years, and in the vicinity of what we now know as Lake
Forest and Highland Park, the one-time Indian trail and military
highway became conscious of a new order. There was an unfamiliar
sound penetrating this silent highway. It was the ring of the wood-
man's ax. Presently within the clearing made by the slaughter of
the monarchs that had for centuries spread their beneficence over
the red man's sinuous byways, whose limbs had become sturdy and
gnarled during the passing of tribe after tribe of the most interesting
and powerful of savage nations, might be seen a little dun-colored
structure, so in keeping with the hues of the forest itself that it
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
imparts a grace note to the scale of magnificent vistas by which it
is environed.
The first log cabin was not one foot larger than absolutely neces-
sary. It was generally the product of a single man's labor. By
and bye he induced a woman to share it with him. Perhaps he
traveled weary distances, either on foot or by ox team, to win her
as his wife and persuade her to come to the log cabin in the wilderness
and make a home for them both. Brave and sturdy were the men
of pioneer times! But the women, considering the conditions, were
even more courageous and buoyant. Then honor to them both.
Together they blazed a trail whose glory scintillates in the homes
of the nation. Their descendants are still building homes and empire.
The mountains have yielded to their energy and perseverance, the
desert smiles and blossoms as they pass. The snows of Alaska
recognize their indomitable will and never-tiring energy; the tropics
languish no longer in do-nothingness after the magic of their mood
has penetrated its somnolency. No monument is needed to per-
petuate their memory, for they are a vital part of the nation itself,
and so long as home-life is honored and the nation's best asset is
found in the integrity of its representatives America will be all that
these early pioneers dared hope it would be a power for good among
the nations of the earth.
After awhile, family emergencies necessitated a second and larger
home, or an addition to the first one. This time the man did not
hew and cut and build alone. Other settlers had, in the meantime,
located within a mile, maybe five or ten miles of distance, and the
neighborly, helpful spirit prevailing under conditions fostered by this
early time, a second and more commodious log structure came into
being. When finished a house-warming was in order. Among the
invited guests, be sure there was one, and perhaps two, who knew
how to manipulate flute or violin, either or both of these instruments
having been smuggled in among his other "pioneer belongings."
Then feet were compelled to keep rhythmic movement, while eyes
blinked through tears both joyous and sad as strains reminiscent of
days that knew not the hardship and privations of the later years
were wafted from end to end of the primitive, yet happy home in
the wilderness.
Schoolhouses, also built of logs, were used for religious services
and for community gatherings, political and otherwise, as occasion
demanded. Legend tells of the first schoolhouse in Lake County
being built at Libertyville in the Autumn of 1836; that it was of
the block-house style that is the logs were hewn on both sides.
This schoolhouse was built, as most of the schoolhouses of this period,
by subscription, and supported by contributions. There were many
bachelors in Libertyville and its vicinity at this time, and to their
credit be it said, the little log schoolhouse not only received better
care in its building, but larger financial support from this band of
enterprising pioneers, who builded better than they knew.
It was the period of rail fences, and what an amount of time and
labor was expended in the making of the same ! Ax, maul and wedge
were the onlv available tools and the labor commanded a remuner-
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ation of one cent per rail. These fences meant greater onslaughts
upon the forests, and as timber was plenty, no effort was made toward
economizing the supply. Stacks of rails would be piled ready for
use or for sale only to be later devoured by prairie fires that destroyed
the already constructed fences. Wood was the only fuel and this
was used steadily for more than thirty years after the first timber
had been felled in the region of the Green Bay Road, while steam-
boats and railroads, that followed some years after the first settlers,
used wood as fuel continuously until the early eighties.
So the magnificent forests seen by the pioneer were fast tending
toward destruction, and the fact that the actual Lake Shore, with its
intercepting ravines, forbade easy transportation of material, this
particular vicinity would also have suffered the fate of the earlier
settled regions, and much of its attractiveness and beauty its charm
of the present have been lost.
In this day of agricultural labor-saving devices, it is difficult to
bring oneself in complete sympathy with the tiller of the soil at a
period when the "back-breaking cradle" was the principal harvest-
ing machine and when threshing was performed by a vigorous wield-
ing of the flail or by the treading-out process, when grass was cut
with a scythe in the hand of the laborer, and the hay loaded and
unloaded by a fork in the hands of each individual of a group of
workers. The slow process of hand-seeding has given place to the
more expeditious methods of "planter" and "cultivator" devices.
These pioneer settlers wrought and struggled and conquered under
conditions of which we can form no conception.
Yesterday the plow and the shovel were the only available road-
making devices, the forests being stripped in order to corduroy
marshy places, and later, when sawmills were at hand, material was
provided for the planking of roads. Today, over highways where the
ox team plodded in the long ago, the automobile may now safely pass
at a speed forbidden by most of the municipalities through which it
recklessly appropriates right of way.
Road-making has not yet reached perfection, to be sure, but Lake
County has some finely constructed highways, quite a few of which
stretch over trails associated with a past that must ever be of interest
to those who realize that the fostering of tradition and legendary
lore ultimately trends to poetical expression, either by pen or by
brush. In other words, an art, national of type, can never be evolved
without tradition and legend upon which to build and create the
coloring of bygone periods.
Township organization was not adopted in Lake County until
1850, and the first county seat was established on the site now
occupied by Libertyville and designated Burlington. The county was
divided into sixteen townships, four of which border Lake Michigan,
and three of these, Waukegan, Shields and Deerfield become of
particular interest in this present narrative of the North Shore.
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GYMNASIUM
Lake Forest College
LAKE FOREST THE COLLEGE CITY
OF THE NORTH SHORE
When courage fails, or hopes are dying,
Our thoughts shall ever turn to thee;
Our watchword be, till time is ended,
"For God, Lake Forest, Victory!"
Alvah W. Doran ('93. )
THE story of Lake Forest is so closely affiliated with its educational
institutions that one cannot be written without aid of the other.
Yet is there a period when the first white settler came, when the
first little dun-colored structure, designated "home," appeared on
the old Indian trail, known as the Green Bay Road. This was in
1834, when settlers first came to Lake County, and at the time when
the Indian was still in possession. Perhaps Otis Hinckley, who built
this first log cabin, came as a hunter and a trader among the abor-
igines. There are two other names associated with him at this period,
that of Thomas McLaughlin and John Strong, both of whom had
pioneer homes in this section of the county.
That in 1838 there were young folks here needing an education
is proven by the fact that on the Green Bay Road, and in the vicinity
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of Lake Forest, one William Cunningham taught school in his own
house. In early times, not only in Lake County, but in other early
settled communities, the homes were frequently used, not only for
school purposes, but for religious services. Of these homes, in the
middle thirties, and of the descendants of the families occupying the
same, the writer has been unable to gather very little that is pertinent
to this present narrative. But those who traverse this section of the
old Indian trail, which later became the military Highway, and now
one of the fine driveways of the county, will note with interest, the
past and the present closely allied in the home architecture.
At this particular point the Skokie Valley begins to develop a
picturesqueness that becomes more and more attractive as one travels
southward. Its finest development in this vicinity is at the extreme
south of Lake Forest. Just at this terminating point the Green Bay
Road assumes some altitude, its eastern boundary being marked by
beautifully rising ground, said to be the highest point between Chicago
and Milwaukee, which designates the home site of Mr. J. Kuppen-
heimer. This acreage evidently covers much of traditional import in
connection with the Indian occupation. A very important village
must have been here located, and its position, together with the fact
that the Skokie is visible for miles, suggests its occupation by the
representatives of various tribes during a session of Council. This
site has yielded rich finds of almost everything associated with the
occupancy of the Indian, while the student becomes imbued with the
thought, that here, long, long before the red man held his councils,
another nation builded mounds and earthworks. From this particular
point of vantage the Skokie is plainly seen trending sinuously toward
the south. It reaches its culmination of scenic beauty and the charm
of far-reaching distances, in Highland Park.
Those building modern homes on the west side of the Green Bay
Road, in Lake Forest, have faced them toward the valley, with
driveways as an outlet to the historic highway, while the earlier homes,
those that succeeded the log cabin period and a decade or so later,
are found fronting the same highway, with lovely undulations trend-
ing toward the valley. It is here, and just a little north of West-
minster Avenue, where a group of the pioneer band of settlers to Lake
Forest came. On one particular site, now occupied by a charming
structure of frame somewhat old-fashioned in style maybe, but with
interior modern as any up-to-date city mansion, that legend centers
in the beginnings of Lake Forest.
The log cabin, which stood a few feet to the north, was retained
many years after it had been abandoned as a home, from a feeling
of sentiment. In this cabin was born on March i, 1843, William
Atteridge, who ultimately became one of the four original students
in the first graduating class ('62) of the Lake Forest Academy. The
distinction is also claimed that Mr. Atteridge was the first white child
born on the North Shore within the limits of Lake County.
Miss Fanny Atteridge, the sister of Thomas, and who is residing
in the pleasant homestead before mentioned, was also born in the log
home and was one of the first students to graduate from Ferry Hall.
There are some interesting legends connected with the Atteridge log
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home. Mrs. Atteridge, the mother, was a Miss Mary Cole, and she
lived to the ripe age of ninety-six.
When Mrs. Atteridge first came to live in the log cabin on the
Green Bay Trail, the Indians had not yet left the vicinity, and she
used to see them frequently passing back and forth, while others,
without invitation, would walk in and stretch themselves in front of
the hearth. This proves the confidence with which the earlier settlers
looked upon the Indian. Most of them in their hearts held him as
an object of commiseration, and treated him accordingly. The door
was ever on the latch for either wanderer, be he Indian or white man.
Miss Atteridge says her mother "knew no fear."
Another time, seeing an Indian passing with his blanket tucked
snugly around him, the weather being chilly, and with no covering
on his head, Mrs. Atteridge bethought her of an old hat belonging to
her husband, and taking it in her hand, hurried after the lone Indian
along the Green Bay Trail. He took it from her and really seemed
grateful for it, put it on his head and resumed his dogged trot, while
Mrs. Atteridge hastened to the shelter of her snug home. After some
little time had elapsed, the door of the cabin opened, and in walked
the Indian, and without sign or gesture, laid the hat at her feet. He
had evidently given it a trial and it had been found wanting, at least
in his Indian intelligence.
Mrs. Atteridge also used to love to tell of the French Canadians,
who from time to time would enter the cabin and seek permission to
cook by her fire. Of course, the hospitality of the wilderness demanded
that this favor should be granted and our early settlers became accus-
tomed to these demands. The French Canadians of whom Mrs. Atter-
idge tells, were in all probability hunters and traders, leading a more
or less adventurous life, keeping in the neighborhood of the streams
principally, but frequently portaging quite long distances over the
well-known trails. But all these legends add to the interest of the
vicinity, and it is a pity that so much of this has escaped us, simply
because we have been so energetic in our trend toward everything
that is commercial.
This Atteridge farm is on a very historical site. Miss Atteridge
has a wonderful collection of Indian relics found during the first early
ploughings, and she treasures them with the right kind of sentiment.
Her mother's spinning wheel, brought from Ireland together with her
reel and butter print, and an old violin belonging to her father are
among the heirlooms of this family, who at one period owned most
of that which is designated Lake Forest. Other descendants of this
pioneer family are living in the vicinity and the third generation is
in attendance at the Lake Forest College.
Lake Forest is -wonderfully favored by nature, and it was fortunate
that its early projectors, grasping the possibilities of this favored site,
sought to add to, rather than detract from its magnificence. It is
located on a bluff varying from seventy-five to one hundred feet above
Lake Michigan, with a delightful stretch of sandy beach forming the
boundary of the waters. This bluff' is a dream, so tender and artistic
has been the care bestowed upon it. It trends inward and outward
in corrugated sections, and here the landscapist has draped with the
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loveliest collection of tree and shrub growth, much of it indigenous,
a number of small trails or by-ways leading to the water. It is all
so natural that one feels as if no hand ever directed those downward
trending, shaded by-ways which are a part of the magnificent park
on the plateau above, for Lake Forest has preserved much of its lake
front as a public pleasure ground.
Intercepted by curving ravines, the streets take their way accord-
ingly by the aid of bridges, and the whole of the city is as far as the
boundary of the electric road and the Chicago and North- Western
Railroad, as one big domain of curving highways and byways shaded
by the richest of tree growth. Very few of the fine homes are visible
from the street, as the grounds adjoining each are undulating parks.
Gardens are brought into subtle view through the most charming
vistas of lordly tree growth. The landscape architect who conceived
this exquisite method of designing a city was a Mr. Hotchkiss of
St. Louis.
Lake Forest is a college center and as such it was devised. If
environment has, as we believe, anything to do with the moulding of
character, what ought we to expect of those who are privileged to
attend college under conditions which tend to develop all that is
best in young manhood and young womanhood. It is little wonder
that Alma Mater at Lake Forest draws the student body into closer
affiliation with the true spirit of brotherhood, and that her sons and
daughters seek, through their active alumni associations, to make the
annual gatherings suggestive of the coming together of one family.
In February, 1856, the Lake Forest Association came into being.
It was conceived by those who desired to establish an educational
institution within a country environment ; remote from Chicago, but
at the same time near enough to the latter to derive metropolitan
advantages. Thirteen hundred acres were purchased by this organiza-
tion. Half of this acreage was set apart as Association property, and
Lake Forest was platted and recorded in 1857, each alternate lot
being assigned as a university endowment, sixty-two acres set apart
as an inalienable campus.
In 1861 Lake Forest was incorporated as a city, and by an Act
of the Legislature in 1865, the title of the Lind University under
which the charter was granted to the proposed institution when first
under contemplation, was changed to that of the Lake Forest Univer-
sity. The first steps toward establishing a preparatory school for boys
was in the fall of 1858, when the Lake Forest Academy came into
being. In 1869 a similar school was established for girls by means of
a thirty-five thousand dollar legacy from the Rev. William Montague
Ferry of Grand Haven, Michigan, and Ferry Hall was born.
In 1870 the Lake Forest Hotel and Manufacturing Company pur-
chased three hundred acres of the endowment lands, and on the
shores of the Lake, erected a very fine hotel six stories in height and
thoroughly equipped. For five years the company conducted this
hostelry at a loss, and in order to cancel its indebtedness it turned
over the hotel and its twelve acres of park to the University. A
commodious and convenient building was now in the hands of the
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trustees, and a college was organized. The Rev. Robert W. Patter-
son, D.D., of the Second Presbyterian Church, Chicago, came to the
college as its first president, serving in that capacity until 1878.
Until September, 1876, there was no collegiate institute of high
grade, not under State control, where a woman might receive the
same educational facilities as those offered to men, and on the date
named, eight young men and four young women entered Lake Forest
College, as pioneers in the system of co-education. In 1887 the
college building was destroyed by fire. One hundred thousand dollars
was quickly raised for a new building, and in 1878 the Rev. Daniel
S. Gregory, D.D., of Wooster University, came to the presidency.
The building now known as College Hall was erected in 1878,
chapel, library, recitation rooms and dormitories being under one roof.
The Academy building was destroyed by fire in 1879, but the same
year a new Academy, and three other structures, were erected.
Most of the present College buildings are monuments to the kindly
benefactions of Lake Forest's distinguished citizens. These structures
not only add extension to college facilities but the artistic atmosphere
is enhanced by the well selected plans of exterior and interior. The
Durand Institute, the Lois Durand Hall, the Calvin Durand Commons,
the Alice Home, are all associated with the beneficence of one family;
and the same might be said of the charming group of buildings known
as Reid Hall, the Lily Reid Memorial Chapel, and the Reid Library
and Cloister, the Blackstone Hall and the Blackstone dormitories and
the Harlan Hall, while Mr. Andrew Carnegie (not a resident) but
of public library fame, donated a Science Hall.
In short, Lake Forest College shows a group of finely equipped
structures, designed for the work of its students, collectively as well
as individually, while its faculty, under the aggressive and progressive
spirit of President Scholte Nollen, are pushing toward efficiency in
the several departments of learning and study, with the result that
the past year is characterized by the largest enrollment of students
in the history of the College. Of the eighteen members composing
the body of trustees, twelve are residents of Lake Forest, four of
Chicago, one of Evanston and one of Milwaukee. Mr. John V. Farwell
is president of the official board, while the name of Mr. Cyrus H.
McCormick appears on the roll of most of the active committees.
A unique feature of the College student life is found in the fact
that both men and women are housed and fed upon the campus, the
men rooming in four dormitories with every modern convenience for
their well-being, taking their meals at the Calvin Durand Commons,
while the women students live in the beautiful Lois Durand Hall,
its accommodation providing for sixty-two in a home that is ideal in
every respect.
Lake Forest, with its blessed out-of-doors significance, with a
water supply of the purest, with a sewage system of the best, with
streets kept in condition by a top dressing that precludes any possi-
bility of inconvenience from dust, with neither smoke of factory nor
other undesirable structures at hand, presents many advantages to
college students seeking an environment conducive to health and the
best educational facilities. Its college campus is an inspiration.
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There, while the last century was in budding promise for American
progressiveness in empire-building, the Pottawattomies, one of the
most aggressive as well as intelligent of the Indian tribes, trod the
trails with softly-moccasined feet, in pursuit of the gentle and graceful
creature of the forest, which abounded in this vicinity.
Today, glad voices mingle in enthusiasm as the modern sports,
football, basketball, baseball and track exercises occupy their respect-
ive places of merit as a pastime amid much of the original forest
environment, for Lake Forest has zealously guarded its native tree
growth.
One of its leading thoroughfares preserves in its title its former
significance. Deerpath Avenue was an old hunting trail, while the
Deerpath Inn occupies the former site of a hunter's cabin. Before
its evolution into the present, neat, well-equipped hostelry, however,
it was one of the early homesteads of Lake Forest, having been built
by the late Colonel Johnson and occupied by him and his family for
many years. Nestled in its beautiful tree growth, the Deerpath Inn,
which is just east of the charmingly arranged depot of the Chicago
and Milwaukee Electric Railroad, presents an attractive feature as
one enters Lake Forest at this particular point. All business structures
are west of the railroad, the east side being devoted to residence and
college purposes.
The Onwentsia Club of Lake Forest has long been associated with
equine sports as well as with that of golf. Its annual horse shows
are a feature of entertainment eagerly sought and thoroughly well
appreciated by North Shore residents who have not lost all interest
in that which constitutes breeding and style in this noble animal as
well as good equestrianship and easy and graceful driving, on the
part of both men and women.
Should Lake Forest develop its shore line as is anticipated, it will
become one of the most perfect centers for aquatic sports, as well as
the most artistically finished line of shore on either of the Great
Inland Lakes. Mrs. Harold F. McCormick has given this subject
much thought and has had the project put into practical form by
engineers who are authorities on the subject by issuing an illustrated
booklet in which are given estimates of the proposed work of con-
struction, each part of the work being itemized in separate expense.
The idea is to have lagoons for sports, to establish a yacht harbor
opposite the public park whose dimensions shall accommodate the
largest steam yachts, as well as the smaller craft sailing the waters
of Lake Michigan, and afford a refuge for yachts coasting the shore
line or running long racing distances on the Lake. The project is a
feasible one, and the motive of its originator calls for appreciation.
Lake Michigan, as we know, is anything but encouraging to aquatic
sports. There are no adequate shelter places for such outside the
city limits of Chicago. A properly equipped water front would add
to the many advantages already possessed by this queen city of the
North Shore.
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Charles S. Frost, Architect
NEW PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH
Highland Park, 111.
HIGHLAND PARK THE NORTH SHORE
PIONEER OF COUNTRY SEATS
"The fathers the men who thought
Of all the future held,
And, hearts uplifted, essayed and wrought
All the work their dreams compelled."
FOLLOWING Sheridan Road, after it passes the lovely home of
Mr. Frederick Morgan Steele, and the dear old homestead of
the Turnley family, in Highland Park, the highway curves
northward in close proximity to the Lake, until reaching the southern
boundary of Fort Sheridan Government Reservation, it trends west-
ward and entering the latter, again proceeds northward. During this
time the tourist has been covering a site of traditional import in
connection with the early beginnings of this beautiful home city.
Apart from the fact that all this territory, as well as that lying south-
ward, is of Indian legendary significance, its evolution into the city
of today, possesses tradition and legend of equal interest.
Just within the enclosure of the reservation is the site of one of
the earliest, ambitious undertakings on this portion of the North Shore.
In 1845 a sawmill and a warehouse were erected, while a pier of con-
siderable length reached like a long arm out into the lake. The site
was known as St. Johns, and for a period it received quite a boom,
for many settlers found their way here, and home-building began in
earnest. But the title to the land became involved in litigation and
the enterprise was finally abandoned, while the town plat was declared
void. This small beginning was but the prelude to the other singing
activities that were to soon begin on its southern border, and which
Page fifty-three
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE
THE OLD PORT CLINTON LIGHTHOUSE
were destined to evolve themselves into that grand orchestration of
Nature, among the harmonies of which "Home, Sweet Home!"
became the leading theme toward a City Beautiful.
Port Clinton, as this second venture toward a town was known,
had its site also on the Lake shore, while its promoters cherished the
ambition that it would be not only a rival of Little Fort, but possibly
of both Milwaukee and Chicago. Ambitions ran at fever heat in those
days, for everything was couleur de rose to those who came and dared.
This second town made a most promising start in 1850. A steam
sawmill was doing a thriving business, and from its pier, even of more
extensive proportions than its predecessor, were shipped large quan-
tities of wood and lumber.
Tradition says that 200,000 feet of oak plank was shipped in one
year from this pier to Chicago for the building of plank roads. Large
quantities of wood for fuel, together with wagon materials, and " ships
knees" were also loaded into the white-winged vessels that had now
begun to skim the waters of the Lake in the interests of commerce.
In the manufacture of "ships knees" Port Clinton became a close
rival of Little Fort, both places shipping to New York and Baltimore.
Westward from the lake the farmers had begun to grow grain,
and the warehouse at Port Clinton held this in storage while awaiting
shipment. The United States Government had established and main-
tained a lighthouse here, and soon a brickyard was started, the father
of the late Washington Hesing, one of Chicago's mayors, being the
projector of the same. A postoffice was established in 1850, and a
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Photo by Beniin
HOME OF MR. FRANK P. HAWKINS
Highland Park, 111.
(The third house built on the east side)
wagon express. It is said that the postmaster slept with the mail bag
under his bed, and his gun under his pillow.
Just at the eastern termination of the lovely Ravine Drive in
Highland Park another little community budded into life and did
considerable business in the shipping of wood and lumber from a
point of vantage known as "Stowell's Pier." In 1854 cholera found
its victims in both of these little bustling, thriving lumber sites, and
the first to succumb to its dire effects was Andrew Steele, who had
been the leading spirit in the Port Clinton project, and was its most
prominent merchant. His wife died the same day, while others in the
vicinity, as well as throughout the county, succumbed to the same
epidemic. But for these unforeseen circumstances Port Clinton might
have developed into a lumber region, and the forest growth, that is
now such a marvel of beauty in Highland Park, have degenerated into
unsightly stumps.
After the Chicago and Milwaukee Railroad had established a
station, effort was made by the Port Clinton Land Company to build
a town in its vicinity. The present hotel, west of the depot, is a
pioneer structure of that day and was then known as the "Central."
This particular site was platted in 1855, and among the stockholders
of the company appear the names of most of the substantial business
men of that time, all residents of Chicago. One of these, Mr. Walter
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BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE
S. Gurnee, ultimately purchased all the stock of the company, and
became the owner of its property.
In 1867 a special charter was granted to the Highland Park
Building Company by Act of the General Assembly, and a corporation
embodying the above title was then organized, and Mr. Gurnee sold
the entire property of the Port Clinton Land Company to the Highland
Park Building Company. The stockholders of the latter were mostly
citizens of Chicago, and, Mr. Frank P. Hawkins was appointed its
general agent and manager. In 1869 Highland Park was incor-
porated as a city and Mr. Hawkins became its first mayor. He still
lives in one of the first three homes erected east of the railroad in
that city, and is the pioneer builder of the first ten residences erected
between Highland Park and Glencoe.
Courtesy Bahr, Bowen Co., Landscape Engineers
WAVERLY AVENUE BRIDGE
Reinforced Concrete, Designed by H. L. Bowen
The Port Clinton lighthouse, having served its purpose, was
abandoned, but stood as an old landmark, picturesque yet pathetic
in its ruined and unkempt condition until about ten years ago, when
it was destroyed. But its tradition remains, and the writer of this
present work, has been fortunate enough to gather a few of the inter-
esting legends associated with it. The lighthouse projected some
distance from the present bluff where Sheridan Road, after trending
eastward, curves to the north, giving a broad, expansive view of the
lake. On the bluff itself was a fine orchard and garden for the keeper
of the lighthouse and his family. Its first and only keeper was Owen
Monaghan. The bit of parchment containing his appointment is one
of the precious heirlooms of a daughter, born in the lighthouse, and
her children. It was a proud day when the Port Clinton mail brought
the following:
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"Treasury Department, Washington, D. C., July 1st, 1856.
"Sir, you are appointed Keeper of the Lighthouse at Port Clinton, Illinois, at
a salary of Three Hundred and Fifty Dollars per ann."
(Signed) James Gu (the rest of signature undecipherable)
Secretary.
To Owen Monaghan.
Deer abounded in the neighboring forest, and the lighthouse keeper
shot many a one on the edge of the bluff. Wolves were not altogether
strangers at this period and in this vicinity the children's "bogey"
was " Hush! the wolf will hear you cry!"
On the site now occupied by a charming home in the Spanish
mission style of architecture, and bearing the pretty Spanish designa-
tion of "Miralago," meaning "Behold the Lake!" the view of its
waters from this point being superbly grand, originally stood the
homestead of the Monaghan family. On the edge of a small ravine
that picturesquely cuts through a portion of the lawn, is seen a
magnificent specimen of weeping willow. When the wife of the light-
house keeper was a young woman she planted a sprig of willow
never dreaming it would grow which had been brought to her by a
Catholic priest from the grave of the Great Napoleon. In its alien
environment it grew and flourished, until now it has become a land-
mark of wonderful grace and beauty.
A little distance westward, and in a home, the center of which
was built for a schoolhouse by the Port Clinton Company and which
was also used for religious purposes, resides Mrs. Mary Josephine Cox,
a married daughter of Sarah and Owen Monaghan. Mrs. Cox was
born in the lighthouse. She has this remembrance of the wreck of
the Lady Elgin: A body of a well-dressed woman having on a hoop
skirt and wearing a long gold chain attached to a watch, being washed
ashore in the vicinity of the lighthouse and the identity being estab-
lished some long time after the remains had been laid to rest. The
little red brick schoolhouse which followed the pioneer structure of
frame, is still a feature of this neighborhood, being used as a boy's
club. In early days, it, too, was used for religious services.
The site of the Moraine Hotel is also included in this old Port
Clinton venture. The following legend is associated with the ravine
that gashes this property, in a horseshoe curve formation. During
the time of the construction of the Illinois and Michigan canal, in
1855, a band of counterfeiters were unearthed here. Everything of
their outfit, with the exception of the counterfeit plates, was dis-
covered and two of the men were captured, tried and committed.
The third, who was the maker of the plates, could not be found.
Twenty years afterward Judge H. W. Blodgett in driving home
to Waukegan from Chicago, when in the neighborhood of Deerfield,
overtook an old man toiling along by the wayside. The Judge proffered
him a seat in his vehicle, and the man became chatty and appeared
to know the Judge, although his name had no significance to the latter.
Before Judge Blodgett set the man down at his destination he had
promised to accept at some future time an invitation to call at the
home of his companion, who intimated he had a "great curiosity"
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that might "interest" him. A day came when the Judge recalled his
promise, and having time on hand, went to see the old man. He
recalled to the mind of the eminent jurist the trial of the counter-
feiters, in which he, the Judge, then a young, bright attorney, had
a part. Then inviting him to an inner room, in which was a bed,
the host turned up one of the mattresses and disclosed to view the
engraved plates used in the making of the counterfeit bonds!
"The statute of limitation has expired, Judge," said the old man
grimly, "or I would not have dared to show you these, but they are
my work. I have never left the county; have had the plates all the
time in my possession, and never even changed my name. You
lawyers are not so smart, after all!" The Judge acknowledged it
with a laugh. He knew, as the counterfeiter had intimated, the case
was outlawed.
As in the traditions of other cities along the North Shore the little
dun-colored structures had dotted the landscape in Highland Park,
even before the platting of the site of St. Johns. Legends of the
log cabin period should be cherished, for, after all, is it not the man
who blazed the trail, he who came to the wilderness with a " faith
all glorious" to make a home for himself and those dear to him, of
whom the American poet that is yet to arrive, shall sing? Yes, our
Homer will come, for the Iliad of this Middle West has yet to be
written. So let us never forget that "we only hold the comfort
within and the peace without by grace of the men of old."
About seventy-seven years ago, a family started in an ox-team
from Erie, Pennsylvania, to make a home in the new country north
of Chicago, now within the township of Deerfield, and in a straight
line on Central Avenue west of the Green Bay Road. The little daughter,
now a woman of eighty-six years, still hale and hearty, was held in
the arms of her mother for safety as they passed over the corduroy
roads. This family settled on one hundred acres of land, where a log
cabin was built, and, as in most of these pioneer homes of like struc-
ture, it was provided with two doors immediately opposite each other.
There was reason for this architectural design.
Wood was the only fuel, and huge logs were used to retain the
heat. When the logs were ready a yoke of oxen would be stationed
outside the open door opposite the other open door through which
the log was to be brought. A chain was fastened to the yoke of
oxen and the end trailed across the floor and attached to the log,
which had first been drawn into position near the other door. The
oxen were now urged into action and the log would be drawn to a
place where it might easily be rolled to the hearth.
The child in question grew to young womanhood, and, in the
meantime, her brother had become acquainted with a young man
about his own age, in Chicago, who had also come from the east to
look for opportunity for investment. This young man had been offered
four blocks of land in the vicinity of Chicago Avenue for eight hundred
dollars! Before coming to any decision he went with his friend to
their country home in Deerfield. Here he found he could get eighty
acres for eight hundred dollars. Perhaps the bright and interesting
sister of his friend had something to do with his decision in favor of
Page fifty-nine
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE
the farm. Be this as it may, it was a case of love at first sight, and
in due course Philip Brand married and settled down to his future
responsibilities in a home built of logs.
To this couple were born eight children five sons and three
daughters. Of this family, four sons and two daughters survive, all
of whom are still living in the township of Deerfield, some of them
long time citizens of Highland Park. Soon after her marriage,
Mrs. Brand, in the preparation of breakfast reached for the coffee,
which was in a small cupboard built against the wall. She felt a sharp
sensation of pain in one of her fingers, and quickly withdrawing her hand,
in a frightened voice told her husband she had been bitten by a mouse.
The young husband looked at the wound but said nothing. He
took a lighted tallow dip and investigated the cupboard. There,
coiled on a plate, lay a rattlesnake. After disposing of the same he
ran to the nearby neighbors and told them what had happened. They
went to his wife, while he for no one had a horse ran for a doctor,
the nearest being stationed at Dutchman's Point, some twelve miles
distant !
The early settlers were more or less familiar with a kind of " first
aid" remedy and they administered to the needs of the young wife,
binding the arm tightly from wrist to shoulder, and it was the " blood-
letting" period of the medical fraternity! However, Mrs. Brand suf-
fered no material injury. She still bears the scar, a memento of those
early, anxious days. This story is related to illustrate one of the many
dangers to which the log cabin dwellers were subjected. The women
required brave hearts and nerves of steel. And in these qualifications
the pioneer mothers of the North Shore were not found wanting.
In 1872-3, the southern half of the city of Highland Park was put
into the hands of Cleveland and French, landscape architects, to plan
toward an evolution of highways and byways that should be artistic
as well as practicable, for the promoters of the project had long since
resolved that the city should be devoted to the fostering of country
homes. For assurance that the projectors and landscape architects
succeeded in their individual parts, it is only necessary to take just
a glimpse at the Highland Park of today. The French, named in this
partnership is no less a personage than W. M. R. French, whose name
figures large in the evolution of the Art Institute of Chicago, and
who for many years has been its able director. Mr. French had grad-
uated from Harvard in 1864, practicing civil engineering and land-
scape gardening for seven years before he, as a member of the firm
named, sought to untangle the forest-bound and ravine-gashed site
of Highland Park. The highways, no matter how much they trend
in waving beauty toward and over the wooded ravines which are
bridged, find their final outlet to one main leading street bounded
by the railroad.
Highland Park has always been a city of good roads. The writer
recalls these roads some twenty-five years ago. They were a delight
in driving, even then. Today they are simply magnificent. The
beautiful spirit manifested by this burgh in their careful thought of
the stranger within their gates each street being clearly defined by
name which is printed on neat guide posts at street intersections is
Page sixty
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
only equalled by their generous home hospitality. To visit Highland
Park is to be brought within an atmosphere of old-time hospitality,
coupled with a modern up-to-dateness that is simply enchanting. It
is the blending of the true and the beautiful in life, this rare combina-
tion of refining influences that has ever made Highland Park a desirable
home city.
In entering Highland Park, the Sheridan Road takes its way
through Ravinia on its southern border, in close proximity to the
Lake, where one may still find superb acreages for those desiring the
water front. Just east of the magnificent Ravinia Park, and at this
outlet's intersection with the Sheridan Road, is a tableland of some-
thing less than twenty acres, rising eighty feet above the Lake, and
belted with timber. The bluffs at this particular point have assumed
corrugations that suggest sculptor's chisel. On the plateau above
and within shelter of the timber, once stood a log cabin the home
of the settler who cleared and farmed the land in the long ago. Except
the clearing there is nothing to suggest the home, that once com-
manded an expansive view of the Lake. But a pathetic little legend
is associated with the spot. There was a well dug here and excellent
water obtained, but the two young children of the tiller of the soil,
met their death by falling into the well. This fair acreage, lifting in
lovely contour from the Lake, with all its woodland sweetness and
charm, awaits the coming of the builder of a country seat, for this
is its destiny. (Illustrations page 62.)
Highland Park, as most of the North Shore communities, found
its most prosperous development in home-building, east of the rail-
road and in the immediate vicinity of the Lake. And like all these
communities, too, it has but recently awakened to the fact, that west
of this boundary line, and at an altitude of from one hundred and
thirty to one hundred and fifty feet above the Lake, lies a most fair
land of promise, and whether she recognizes it, the fact remains, that
Highland Park between the county line and, perhaps, a little to the
north of the Exmoor Golf Grounds on the Green Bay Road, has the
richest and finest bit of the Skokie Valley of any other city in its
historic vicinity. The writer, who has known this section, and who
has tramped over it, from Evanston to and including Lake Forest, for
years, knows whereof she writes. " Upland, Vale and Grove, Seen
from a Highway of Historic Import, " was the thought born of this
inspiration from the Green Bay Road and the beautiful Valley of the
Skokie, seen in the vicinity of Highland Park.
"Skokie?" The Indian for "marsh," says one; "bad squaw," in
the same language, says another. But have you seen the Skokie after
a dry Summer and Fall? If you have you will know that the Indian
named it rightly when he gave to it the designation of " Waub-Skokie, "
meaning "land fire." Its wonderful peat beds have almost been
consumed since the Indian so designated it. Observing its red, steady
glow creeping sinuously over the earth, and upland and grove bathed
in ruddy phantasmagoria, he was awed into reverent mood, and
among all his gods, that of "Waub-Skokie," the "land-fire" manitou,
became associated with a mysticism which he could not probe.
At an early period of the settlement of Lake County log cabins
Page sixty-one
THE BLUFFS EAST OF RAVINIA PARK
PLATEAU ON BLUFFS EAST OF RAVINIA PARK
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
were dotted here and yon along the Green Bay Road in the vicinity
in question. These gradually gave place to structures of frame and
of brick, the present Stipe homestead being the pioneer in the latter
material. A Catholic Mission church, "St. Mary's in the Woods,"
was here in 1846, intimating there were settlers in that vicinity of
the faith represented. And how far they traveled, the majority of
the members of this congregation, in order to attend mass and receive
that spiritual comfort from which their sojourn in the wilderness had
seemed to deprive them ! This little log church was not in any way
associated with Marquette's missions, as has been erroneously taught
and accepted. Neither Marquette nor his immediate followers were
in this neighborhood. He was a missionary of the Jesuit Order, and
it was the same religious Order that promulgated the setting up of
the little log church by the side of the old Indian trail converted
into a military road in 1835 and the same Order that devised its
second use as a schoolhouse during the week day. This can only be
the chain of circumstances connecting it with the name of the good
Father Marquette.
Today, a country home occupies the site of the burial ground that
was attached to the little log mission church, while the immediate
site of the latter is in the southeast corner of the charming lawn and
garden fronting the old-time trail. How quickly historic landmarks
disappear! And who would recognize this particular vicinity, not
having seen it in many years? The old is little blended with the new,
for the finely cultivated farmlands, and the extensive stock farms
have disappeared. While the highway itself is macadamed and has
a top dressing which precludes dust, and along its smooth surface
speed the automobiles, where but yesterday wearily plodded the
ox-cart.
This is a vicinity of large acreages the ideal site for country
seats and here they are coming as fast as appreciation of the locality
is accepted. From off the old trail, trend eastward the most charmingly
macadamed, curving highways. The lay of the land is undulating and
crested with tree growth of more or less interest, while adown the
highways trending westward are glimpses of the valley beyond. The
little red schoolhouse that stood on the hill, and which became a
landmark at the corner of Roger Williams Avenue on the Green Bay
Road, has passed away. It is superseded by a noble structure on the
corner of Lincoln Avenue, in the midst of delightful parkways, and
commanding a view of the charming valley.
Near the county line the tourist is confronted by suggestions of
yesterday, in the form of farmhouses. The west entrance to Ravinia
Park is at this point. Yonder, overlooking the valley, is a frame
house which superseded the log cabin of one of the early settlers.
Four generations of the same family have trodden these byways of the
past and are now far afield in every other occupation but farming.
The representative of the second generation is a hail and hearty man.
He attended school in "St. Mary's in the Woods;" he also recalls
memories of the soldiers passing over the Green Bay Road while on
their way to or from Green Bay, Wisconsin, and Chicago. Mr. Hesler
has kept pace with the times. He has not given any attention to
Page sixty-three
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE
farming for years. His winters are spent in California or some other
congenial clime, while he returns to the "old farm" in summer as a
matter of sentiment, and here come his bonnie grandchildren from
some distant part of the state to spend their vacation, to climb the
trees which their great-grandfather planted, and slide from the roofs
of the unused buildings which "grandpa" erected in the long ago.
The women of Highland Park, organized into various clubs, are
very active in all that makes for a city healthful and beautiful. The
public park on the Lake front, is left in as natural a state as possible,
and on the broad sandy beach at the foot of the bluff on Central
Avenue, is a children's playground, equipped with every gymnastic
and aquatic device for the pleasure of the young folks. On a hot
day this summer the writer was amused for the best part of an hour
watching the youngsters launching a raft, the water part of the play-
ground being bounded eastward by a net-guard, to prevent the too
adventurous spirits from effectively playing "Columbus" or "Robin-
son Crusoe. "
The Exmoor Country Club is located in the picturesque Valley of
the Skokie. No more ideal environment can be conceived for a golf
course, with its lovely emerald-hued uplands and woodlands holding
within their tremulous distances an atmosphere that is invigorating
and inspiring. Schools and churches and a public library, aids to a
city set apart as Highland Park is, for all that is best in home-building,
impress the visitor with the fact that guardian spirits are watching
over the welfare of this lovely North Shore city.
Photo by Beintn
ROGER WILLIAMS AVENUE, RAVINIA. ILL.
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THE ORGAN AND STAIRCASE AT " RIDGEWOOD'
(Built by owner)
Green Bay Road, Highland Park, 111.
From a Pencil Drawing by Miss I. M. Kimball
Page ninety-three
Page ninety-four
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Page one-hundred
Page hundred and one
Photo by Bmm
HOME OF MR. R. J. BEATTY
515 South Sheridan Road Highland Park, 111.
Photo by Benin:
Page hundred and two
"BRENTWOOD"
Home of Miss Grace Glidden
Highland Parlc. 111.
Photo by Bemin
HOME OF MR. WALTER WARDROP
815 Lincoln Avenue, Highland Park, 111.
Photo by Bern
HOME OF MR. ROBERT SEYFARTH
South Sheridan Road, Highland Park, 111.
Page hundred and Jhree
Photo by Hemni
HOME OF MRS. MAUD HOLBROOK SHANNON
116 Moraine Road, Highland Park, 111.
Photo by Bern
"BOSCOBEL"
HOME OF THE MISSES IRWIN AND MRS. H. R. RITCHIE
222 Maple Avenue, Highland Park, 111.
Page hundred and jour
Page hundred and five
Page hundred and six
HOME OF MR. FRITZ BAHR
Laurel Avenue, Highland Park, 111.
Photo by Heinni
"TIMBERTOP"
HOME OF MR. GEORGE C. EBELING
Ravinia, 111.
Page hundred and seven
Photo l>y Bemi
HOME OF MR. HURT J. FITZGERALD
868 Lincoln Avenue, Highland Park, 111.
Patton & Miller. Architects
THE NEW UNION CHURCH
Glencoe. 111.
Page hundred and eight
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Page hundred and seventeen
Photo by Benim
HOME OF MR. C. P. WHITNEY
1637 Judson Avenue, Evanston. 111.
I'holo by Ben
HOME OF MR. FRED KAEMPFER
7joo North Ashland Avenue, Birchwood, Chicago
Page hundred and eighteen
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HALL, HOME OF MR. E. D. MOENG
Oj^Columbia Avenue, Rogers Park, Chicago
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Photo by Bemm
HOME OF MR. ROBERT S. SMITH
Cumnor Road, Kenilworth, 111.
THE HIGHWAY SOUTHWARD TO CHICAGO
When the city's rush is over, and the monthly ticket shown,
And the platform's crowd has scattered like leaves in Autumn blown,
Then the engine feels the throttle, as the racer feels the whip,
And sends its drivers whirling for its little homeward trip.
Horace Spencer Fiske
IN the vicinity of the pretty little station of Braeside, Chicago &
North Western Railroad, or at the nearby county line station
of the Chicago & Milwaukee Electric Railroad, and on the Cook
County side, is seen a venerable tree of quaint and almost forlorn
aspect. It is an Indian trail tree. A farmer, who has been a long-
time resident on the Green Bay Road, is fond of declaring that this
is "no trail tree." In short he ignores all tradition associated with
the Indian. He asserts that within his remembrance, 1866, a tornado
"twisted" this particular tree. With all due respect to his observa-
tion of the "tornado's" havoc, those who are authorities on the sub-
ject, having made a study in the timbered regions frequented by
the Indian, know for certain that this was an Indian trail tree long
before the "tornado" undertook to rend one of its limbs. The
members of the Lake Shore Country Club have shown a praiseworthy
sentiment, as well as a keen appreciation of an old historic land-
mark, by affording it the protection of a neat fence against the
vandalism that walketh abroad to destroy.
Page hundred and thirty-five
Photo by Bemm
INDIAN TRAIL TREE
COUNTY LINE ROAD AND LAKE SHORE COUNTRY CLUB
Page hundred and thirty-six
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
That the tree in question was in its sapling period bent by the
Indian, in order to designate a particular route, there is no doubt.
The early hunters appreciated the significance of such landmarks;
the settlers coming later, and at a period when the Indian was leaving
the territory, also realized that they were as signposts by the way.
The settler himself blazed a trail, either by cutting down timber or
by hacking off portions of the bark, and the North Shore is rife with
legends of this nature, most wonderful stories being told of how
"mother's father blazed the trees while walking toward Chicago,"
or "to Waukegan." As a rule, the trails of the Indian, particularly
when marked by these peculiar trees, proved guide sufficient for the
early settlers.
Cook County was named as a compliment to the Hon. Daniel P.
Cook, member of Congress, and Glencoe, which forms the county's
northern line on the North Shore, was originated by the same Walter
S. Gurnee whose name figures in the merging of Port Clinton into
Highland Park. Mr. Gurnee was impressed by the glen-like aspect
of the vicinity, and then gallantly added his wife's maiden name
of Coe. Glencoe for many years nestled itself within such rich wood-
land environment as to forbid an attempt at acquaintance. It is
now a suburb of distinction, having many beautiful homes, some
good business houses and a bank, and its citizens have just erected
a magnificent Union Church, costing forty thousand dollars.
The Green Bay Road in this vicinity trends eastward, being inter-
sected by the railroad, then diverging northward, it is a beautifully
paved highway, paralleling the tracks for some distance when it again
turns westward and northward. Melville E. Stone of Daily News
and Associated Press fame, built the first pretentious home in Glencoe,
bridging a ravine on Sheridan Road before the necessary material
could be brought to the selected site. Sheridan Road at this time
was little more than a wagon trail, and impassable at certain seasons
of the year. The Lake Shore Country Club and the Skokie Country
Club are both within the corporate limits of Glencoe. Street improve-
ments in the southern part of the village are being rapidly pushed
as are those in the adjoining suburb, Hubbard Woods.
This latter place was originally known as Taylorsport, after the
Taylor family, its earliest settlers. In 1870 David Gage of Chicago,
named it Lakeside, because of its proximity to the Lake. It is only
recently, however, since it has been designated Hubbard Woods,
that this charming tract of land has received the attention it deserved.
It is named after Gurdon S. Hubbard, who at one time, owned the
whole acreage comprising this site. As the Sheridan Road takes its
way in close proximity to the Lake, the slopes and curves present a
panorama of wonderful views. There are some charming homes in
this picturesque environment, and in the woodlands west of the rail
road, a very unique home has just been completed. It is built of
logs, but nothing about it to suggest the home of the early pioneer.
It is a pretentious affair, and was built and is owned by Adam Emory
Albright, who has become known as the painter of country children.
This country home is constructed of Oregon pine logs, sixty feet long
and ranging in diameter from twelve to fourteen inches. This unique
Page hundred and thirty-seven
I'hoto by Be:
TRAIL TREE AT WILMETTE, ILL.
Tenth and Greenwood Avenues
Page hundred and thirty-eight
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
structure together with the artist's reputation, will surely bring fame
to Hubbard Woods. It will be interesting to read the legends of
the future in connection with the building of this home. How the
logs were hauled on a train of six flat cars to be again transported
by two teams of horses, two logs at a time, to the proposed site ; the
many problems encountered in obtaining workmen who could put
the material together, for every log, as well as the oak window frames,
is held in place by spikes half an inch square and ten inches long!
Winnetka is an Indian word, signifying "beautiful place," and
no one will dispute its right to the title. Here may be found many
pretentious as well as artistic homes, charmingly environed in trees
and shrubbery. It has winding thoroughfares, with little parks at
street intersections. Its natural undulations are very pleasing, and
its outlook to the Lake delightful. The maple growth is simply
glorious, and in Autumn Winnetka 's coloring rivals that of any other
North Shore village or city. The Sheridan Road takes its way
through the village one block west of the Lake.
Kenilworth, within the past year, has shown considerable awaken-
ing in the northern portion. Here quite a number of homes have
come into being, and streets laid out and paved in keeping with the
original plan of the site. From the " Book of the North Shore,
1910," is culled the following paragraph of interest regarding this
particular vicinity :
"About fifteen miles north of Chicago is Kenilworth, which has
a marked individuality. Here was opportunity for landscape artist
and architect to work in unison, and here, too, it being the youngest
of the North Shore settlements, each could profit by the advantages
or disadvantages of the planning and building of the earlier com-
munities; and to their credit, be it recorded, Kenilworth stands alone
in having made the best of all that Nature bestowed. Even Evanston,
as well as Highland Park and Rogers Park, have had to destroy in
modern times that which was planned and builded in earlier times.
Not so will it be with Kenilworth. The entrance to this lovely home
town is beyond reproach; its large fountain and cemented angles of
streets, together with its superb tree growth, suggest a park of some
magnitude and beauty. No straggling line of one-story stores, no
freaks of the builder of the "railroad" street offend the eye. The
noble forest growth of oak, elm, ash and other native trees have been
barely cleared to admit of residences being built, yet all is in order
and arranged with artistic taste. The large trees are trimmed so as
not to interfere, their tops forming a canopy of varied green in
summer, while in winter they are etched against the sky line or cast-
ing athwart the snow-covered lawns blue and purple traceries, such
as no artist could hope to imitate with any degree of success. Noth-
ing had stood in this wilderness of forest previous to its being platted
as a desirable residence site, except the wigwam of the Indian and
a solitary log cabin, which stood on the bluff, thirty-five feet above
the lake, and in which Elizabeth Ouilmette was married to Michael
Welch. Well paved avenues, over which much of the original forest
growth throws its grateful shade and protection, make of Kenilworth
a desirable home place."
Page hundred and thirty-nine
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE
Wilmette is a live, active village. During the past five years it
has grown beyond comprehension ; grown in beauty as well as in
strength. It was always a favored site. Nature did much for it,
and interest is shown in the preservation of its tree growth. There
are many lordly elms, trees that prove by their girth that they were
here while the Indian was in possession. There are a few trail trees
cherished in this neighborhood, and whether on private property or
on the boulevards, they are sacred to their particular environment.
The Ouilmette Country Club, located on the edge of the public park
fronting the Lake, forms one of the many social features associated
with this village. The enterprise of the Woman's Club is evidenced
in the beautiful club home erected by that organization, and which
is said to be the first club house of its kind devoted to the special
interests of a woman's organization built on the North Shore. Its
Village Hall is a monument to its originators. Pure and chaste in
design and finish it is unlike any other structure of its kind on the
North Shore, and its ensemble is such, that one feels as if one of
the temples of ancient Greece had been dropped into a more modern
environment and fitted to its alien surroundings with advantage.
Wilmette has much of traditional interest. It was named after the
wife of Antoine Ouilmette, a Frenchman, who married Archange, a
Pottawattomie maiden. Ouilmette was one of the first white settlers
in Chicago occupying one of the four cabins that constituted the
settlement of Chicago in 1803. There were born to the Ouilmettes
eight children, the names of whom appear in the several affidavits,
deeds and documents relating to the title to the reservation, upon
the site of which the greater portion of Wilmette, as well as a part
of Evanston, now stands. Ouilmette's marriage to Archange, the
Pottawattomie, is historical, for it is said to be the first North Shore
wedding of which there is any record. The wedding took place at
Gross Point in 1796. Ouilmette's daughter, Elizabeth, was twice
married. Her first husband was Michael Welch, who has the honor
of being designated not only the "first Irishman" in Chicago, but
the first of his nationality on the North Shore. His marriage with
Elizabeth Ouilmette took place on May n, 1830, and in a log cabin
that stood until 1903 on the east side of Sheridan Road, two blocks
north of the Kenilworth water tower.
The North Shore channel of the Chicago Sanitary District has
its entrance from Lake Michigan in Wilmette, where a harbor has
been built and where the commissioners have created from the
material taken from the ditch a site for a park on its north bank.
At this point the Sheridan road will cross the channel over a hand-
some concrete bridge, which is nearing completion. The water flows
into the canal at the rate of one thousand cubic feet per second,
which is of sufficient force to dilute all sewage that may be turned
into it. Great possibilities for beautifying its banks through the
suburban residence sections is evident, and will, in all probability,
be considered seriously in some well organized association, such as
our Park Boards. The right of way of the channel is six hundred
feet in width; the canal is from twenty-six to thirty feet in width
at bottom, with a one hundred and thirty feet width at top, and
thirteen feet of depth, and the approximate cost is $2,500,000.
Page hundred and forty
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
Reaching Rogers Park the northern limits of Chicago are des-
ignated by the site of an old Indian trail. This thoroughfare was
for years known as " Indian Boundary." Its title should never have
been changed and the writer is glad to know that the Chicago His-
torical Society has entered a protest to this effect on its records.
"Indian Boundary" would always imply tradition; would signify
that which as time passes one is apt to forget. The northern section
of Rogers Park is designated "Birchwood." The whole suburb
might rightfully have claimed this designation, so prolific were the
birch trees here.
The Edgewater Golf Club, which for years made a beauty spot
of the southwest corner of Rogers Park, has its new grounds at the
intersection of Pratt and Ridge Boulevards the latter being laid
over an old trail. The Birchwood Golf Club has its links adjoining
the historic Indian Boundary.
Quoting again from the "Book of the North Shore 1910."
"Before streets were opened the byways leading to the Lake, par-
ticularly east of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul tracks Sheridan
Road then being little more than a trail the woodlands were rich
in flower growth. The hepatica, the violet and a host of other sweet
blossoms, together with a veritable riot of roses, made the months
of May and June a delight in this particular section. The cucumber
vine, with its delicate lace-like beauty, vied with woodbine, wild
grape and bittersweet in gracefully draping each defect of shattered
and fallen treegrowth. These same charming artists of the forest
persisted in veiling the real estate signs, as if in protest at their
intrusion. The stately elder with its broad umbels of cream-colored
and white blossoms, followed by the rich purple and red fruit, imparted
to the byways an ever-varying touch of form and hue. The great
charm of the Rogers Park woodlands, however, was its silver birch
growth, the "lady birch" as it is designated by some authorities.
Tenderest touches of green splashed with yellow in the spring; their
columns of silver imparting a striking note of beauty in the dense
and shadowy byways of summer ; while autumn changed their delicate
foliage to veritable flakes of gold, and my Lady Birch then declared
herself Queen of the Woodlands ! In the winter they assumed a rare
individuality, standing like pillars of light in purpled shadows, and
outvieing the snow-blanketed earth in their brilliancy. Oh! how
radiant they appeared when caught in the slanting rays of a rose-
colored sunset ! And when Old Sol arose from his bed on the eastern
horizon of the Lake, how tenderly mysterious they became, quivering
with something akin to the emotion of a messenger who has some-
thing surprising to impart. You dear old birch trees! Why was
speech denied you? Our distinguished New England poet immor-
talized thee
"Give me of your bark,
O Birch-Tree!"
"Lay aside your cloak, O birch-tree!
Lay aside your white-skin wrapper,
For the summer-time is coming,
And the sun is warm in heaven,
And you need no white-skin wrapper!"
Thus aloud cried Hiawatha.
Page hundred and forty-one
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE
"There were many
'Hiawathas,' before the
coming of the white man,
in the birchwoods on the
site of what is now called
Rogers Park, busy build-
ing canoes from the mate-
rial at hand. In a few
instances the birch tree
has been coaxed to remain
well cared for on private
property.
"The two Edgewaters
and Argyle Park as Rogers
Park, form a part of the
municipality of Chicago.
Edgewater's founder was
Mr. J. Lewis Cochran.
He subdivided three
hundred and fifty acres,
putting in street im-
provements and building
some three hundred
houses. It required not
only a large amount of
capital, but unbounded
faith in the future. The
only transportation was
the Evanston branch of
the Chicago, Milwaukee
& St. Paul Railroad, with
terminus at the Union
Depot. In 1893, the elec-
tric surface road was
opened. Many of us re-
call the delight with which
we hailed this buzzing innovator, whose bumblebeeish vibrations
were as music to the ears of the long-suffering ' better transportation'
advocate. Then the 'trolley-parties' with which the road favored
its patrons ! We recall how the single track, interspersed here and
there with convenient sidings, pushed through byways, tangled and
overgrown with brushwood and trees. In the open car, on a summer
evening, this ride was particularly enjoyable, for trees and bushes
reaching out on either side swished against the invader in musical
protest, while the air was fragrant with woodsy sweets, and between
whiles, the Lake might be seen under the silvered sheen of moonlight.
Now the North Western Elevated carries a host of patrons over the
original Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul tracks.
"While on this subject of transportation, a word for the enterprise
of Chicago's first railroad (1848), now generally designated as the
Chicago & North Western. It has passed through so many vicissi-
SILVER BIRCHES
Page hundred and forty-two
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
tudes that its evolution into the road of today reads like romance.
Witness now its finely equipped Milwaukee Division, for this has
been a power in the development of the North Shore suburbs and
towns. Its fine embankments and subways, its artistic stations in
an environment of parkway and gardens, have all helped toward
evolution from the country village, with its primitive methods, to
the fair and progressive suburbs of the city and the prosperous towns
and cities beyond."
Future traditions of Edgewater will ever be associated with the
fact that here, in "Paradise Flat," lived and wrote and died, the
talented authoress and deeply lamented Myrtle Reed.
Evanston is a beautiful city, ideal in its preservation of the forest
trees and in its system of well-paved and neatly kept thoroughfares.
The stranger is impressed with the fact that each individual Evan-
stonian takes a personal pride in the neat appearance of his city.
There are many beautiful homes, many dear, old-fashioned structures,
as well as those of more modern design and imposing appearance;
but all in an environment of emerald lawn, graceful shrub, clinging
vine and stately trees. The immediate Lake front has been preserved
for park purposes, considerable land having been redeemed from the
Lake itself; the famous Sheridan Road, as a rule, forming the western
boundary of this most perfect system of devoting a choice stretch
of land to the public good. This highway, which extends for thirty
miles northward from Chicago it being a part of the latter's boule-
vard system was conceived by an Evanstonian, the late Volney W.
Foster. Evanston's beginnings center in the history of its University,
five hundred and sixty acres being purchased by the trustees in 1854,
for the purpose of developing this higher class education, and the
growth of the university is, to a certain extent, the development of
the city itself. Founded in love and in sincerity, is it wonder that
Evanston should later become known as the "classic" city of the
West? It received its name in honor of Dr. John Evans, who took
a very active part in securing the site for the University. Ten
students in a frame building in 1855! Over four thousand in hand-
some brick and stone edifices in 1911!
The highways and byways of the past in Evanston are of unusual
interest, and its Historical Society has been active in perpetuating
memories of the native people that roamed at will through its superb
forest environment, hunting the deer or other animals then familiar
to its vicinity. Besides the ever-present trail, the natural highway
of the Indian, has, as in other places along the North Shore, been
appropriated by the white man, and converted into well-paved
streets and boulevards, along which the automobile has taken right
of way; while Indian mounds and graves have been found in many
localities within the boundary of the city. Within two miles of its
limits, Father Pinet, in 1696, had his "Mission of the Guardian
Angel" among the Miami Indians, and here, in 1699, he was visited
by Saint Cosme and others, with Henry de Tonty as guide and pro-
tector, while on their way to the Illinois country, via the Chicago
portage.
Page hundred and forty-three
Page hundred and forty-four
THE LAKE SHORE COUNTRY CLUB
Glencoe, 111.
THE FAVORITE PASTIME ON THE
NORTH SHORE
"The Royal and Ancient Game of Goff"
GOLF, or "goff," as it was designated in ancient Scotland, was
a pastime of record not only in Scotland but in England, long
before Columbus discovered America. Twelve years previous
to the landing of the Pilgrims a golf club had been established at
Blackheath, London, a site teeming with historic interest in the
traditions of Great Britain.
Ten years before Marquette passed in view of our North Shore, the
most famous of all golf clubs, that of St. Andrews, was established
in Scotland for it is practically of Scotch origin it is known as a
fascinating sport, so much so, that in 1457 a note of alarm was sounded
because of the fear that "the most important pursuit of archery"
would be neglected on its account. And soon a Scottish Act of
Parliament decreed that "futeball and golfe be utterly cryit down
and nocht usit."
No particular attention seems to have been given to this decree,
however, and a stronger one was issued in which "futeball and golfe"
are "forbidden." This edict was signed by James the Fourth, but
it was not long before this monarch became so infatuated with the
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
.."!
Photo by llenini
"THE ELM"
GLEN VIEW CLUB HOUSE
Golf, III.
game that he set his own command at defiance and "joyneth" in
the "unprofitable sport." This monarch comes down to tradition
associated with golf as the first royal personage formally figuring
in the game.
James the Fifth and his daughter, the unhappy Mary Stuart,
also played golf. The latter was charged by her enemies in show-
ing a "shameless indifference" to the fate of her husband, when a
few days after his tragical end, she was seen "golfing." Charles the
First and his brother, Prince Henry, were devotees of the game.
This unfortunate monarch, while in the hands of the Scots at New-
Page hundred and forty-seven
"REDCROFT"
HOME OF MR. FREDERIC W. UPHAM
Golf, 111.
"REDCROFT"
HOME OF MR. FREDERIC W. UPHAM
Golf, 111.
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GLEN VIEW CLUB
"Apartment B"
GLEN VIEW CLUB
"The Elm" and "Apartment C'
Page hundred and fifty
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
castle and awaiting their surrender of his person to the English
Parliament, found much diversion in this ancient game. The golf
ball at this period was a circlet of leather, roughly stitched together
in sections, and containing a stuffing of feathers packed so tightly
as to render it as hard as a stone. It was twice the size of the present
ball and much less durable.
India, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the United States,
in fact, everywhere that Scots congregate, cometh the sport that
imparts health and vigor, and which affords splendid relaxation
after sedentary habits connected with business. The fact that
women are taking an active part in the game predicts much for the
future, as this outdoor sport involves a covering of distances on foot,
an exercise which the women, as a rule, eschew.
It is little wonder that the North Shore, with its reaches of undulat-
ing country, should have proven a golfer's paradise. Whether Scots
were the originators of the sport in this particular vicinity, the writer
is not prepared to state, but the golf links are here and in an environ-
ment that even bonnie Scotland itself cannot outdo.
Lake Forest has its Onwentsia, Highland Park its Exmoor golf
links, both on sites that are exceedingly beautiful. While the Lake
Shore Country Club and the Skokie Club of Glencoe are on sites
designated by their individual titles, each in its own particular environ-
ment of scenic charm. The Evanston Golf Club has its links adjacent
to the drainage canal. The Glen View Club is a few miles west of
Evanston and on a very historic site. The North Branch of the
Chicago River passes through the links, and is suggestive of "trouble."
In the grounds and overlooking the links are two structures of Eliza-
bethan style of architecture. These are designated " Apartments
B and C," and are rented by members wishing to sojourn here with
their families. Apartment A was originally a brick farm house.
Here to the wilderness in 1836 came Robert Dewes. His family,
French Huguenots, had held farmlands in Yorkshire, England, for
three hundred years. Descendants are still there. In the brick
house on the golf grounds was born the son of the pioneer farmer
in 1846. John Dewes sold the property to the Glen View Club.
Mr. Dewes now lives in a brick home on a rising slope just west of
the links, and with acreage enough to keep him occupied. For, as
he says, he is a "born farmer" and therefore feels the need of living
in close acquaintance with the soil. Another member of the family,
an uncle of the present representative, also came to Chicago in the
early thirties, and was offered a tract of eighty acres for one dollar
and a quarter per acre, on what is now Lake Street west of the river.
There is a little log cabin, built in 1836, for an Englishman by the
name of Swales, who was associated with Mr. Dewes' father.
The Glen View golf grounds occupy the site of the farm that
followed Indian occupation of the land. It is a site of intense
interest, traditionally, for here was a very important Indian village,
and the earth has yielded relics of a past with which the average
man is totally unfamiliar. The balconies of the club house afford
vistas of this undulating country, and here is inspiration for both
poet and artist.
Page hundred and fifty-one
GLEN VIEW LINKS
"Sweet Home" and the "Ball Bearing Stream"
LOG CABIN
Glen View Club
Page hundred and fifty-two
THE SKOKIE COUNTRY CLUB
i. The Entrance. 2. The Club House. 3. The Summer House.
Page hundred and -fifty-three
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hundred and fifty-four
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MICHAEL SWEENEY LOG CABIN
Fort Sheridan, 111.
PASSING VISTAS
It is necessary to look forward as well as backward.
Madame de Stael
ROCKLAND was the name of a little station on the west side of
the Chicago and Northwestern Railway, and somewhat north
of the present Lake Bluff station. After twenty years of service
it merged its identity into that of Lake Bluff, which in 1877, had
become a Methodist camp meeting ground. The position on the bluff
and its proximity to the Lake became sponsor for the newer name.
Later, Lake Bluff became the western Chautauqua center and large
crowds gathered on this picturesque site each season. Its great audi-
torium stood in an environment of forest and from its platform were
heard many of the leading orators of the day. It suffered a period
of depression and financial hindrance, and in 1895, the "Lake Bluff
Camp Meeting Association" surrendered control of the property,
which then became incorporated as a village. Many improvements
have been made in an up-to-date spirit, and Lake Bluff, with its
charming location, promises much in its future evolution toward
home-building.
Page hundred and fifty-five
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE
About six miles south of Lake Bluff is Fort Sheridan, said to be
the model military station of the United States. Its inception came
in 1887, when an association comprised of Chicago's prominent busi-
ness men, realized the time had arrived when urgent need demanded
that a military post of some importance be established within con-
venient distance of the city. To this end, funds were raised to pur-
chase a tract of three hundred and fifty acres, located between the
railroad and the Lake. This tract was donated to the Government,
and by Act of Congress it was named in honor of the hero, General
Philip H. Sheridan. It is one of the most picturesque sites and its
original beauty of contour has been faithfully preserved. Additional
acres have been added until the reservation embraces about one
thousand. Its architectural features are excellent, and an appropria-
tion is being sought for further improvements. These will add materi-
ally to its present facilities for accommodation of numbers, and it
will make Fort Sheridan the best equipped military post in the world.
The famous Sheridan Road takes its way through the reservation
over finely bridged ravines.
This tract of land has its traditions. On the site now occupied
by the Post Cemetery, the woodman's ax awakened the echoes in
1840, and soon the pioneer structure of logs was seen in a small
clearing, and Benjamin Marks possessed a home in the North Shore
wilderness. Four years later Michael Sweeney came into the dense
timber growth between the Lake and the old trail or military road.
Now another little brown structure came into existence. This
memento of early pioneer days, is still seen just southwest of the
handsome station of the Chicago and Northwestern Railway at Fort
Sheridan. In the early fifties the railroad cut this acreage in two.
Mr. Sweeney, who had purchased his acres from the government,
arrived in an ox wagon in the late summer of 1844. He died in
September, 1909, but is survived by his widow and eight children,
two of the latter, Mr. William and Miss Frances, occupy, with their
mother, the spacious brick home, near the site of the former log cabin,
to which the latter had come as a bride. This modern home is on
a gentle elevation and in a delightful environment of lawn and
woodland. One is impressed with the care evidenced in the preser-
vation of the natural tree growth and the pioneer orchard the first
apple tree being still tenderly nurtured in remembrance of the hand
that planted and fostered it.
Highwood was projected in 1871, and the writer recalls the days
of its pretty suburban existence. Mrs. Holden (the "Amber" of
blessed memory) dwelt here, writing those delightful little heart
touches under the title of "Amber Beads," as well as other essays
of equal interest. Highwood seemed to lose its identity after Fort
Sheridan was established. But efforts are being made toward its
rehabilitation. The lay of the land is delightful and the deserted
village aspect should at once be corrected, by a well-organized effort
toward home-building, and its evolution into one of the beauty spots
of the North Shore, for Highwood has undiscovered possibilities.
Page hundred and fifty-six
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RAVINE AT "THE MORAINE"
EXPLORATION AND DISCOVERY
"Many of the most valuable discoveries have been the work of chance."
Cotton.
IS it not true that the particular designation of a site serves either
to attract or repel? While on an electric car headed northward,
and just beyond the immaculate and famous "Crab Tree Farm,"
there flashed across the vision the word "Lakewoods!" It was a
title on a signboard, the latter having no objectionable feature in
its composition, but impressing one with the conviction that refine-
ment of taste originated its design.
"Lakewoods!" It suggested to the imagination something more
tender than "forest" growth. "Woods!" We may be lost in the
forest; we may roam without fear through the woods. With these
thoughts uppermost, the conductor is instructed to stop at the "very
next station." By me troth! The same is familiar, for it was noth-
ing more nor less than Downey's Crossing at the southwest corner of
the beautiful parade grounds of the Great Lakes Naval Training
Station, the Sheridan Road forming the dividing line.
This famous driveway offered a good footpath southward. The
stout fencing of wire forbade intrusion upon this lovely domain with
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I! I (1 II \V A V S A N I) li Y \V A Y S P A S T A N U P R E S E N T
its waving undulations and belts of timber that called forth exclama-
tions of delight, as well as an irresistable desire for exploration of its
hidden recesses. Presently, after a delightful tramp of about half a
mile a gate is discovered, and oh, joy! it stands at an inviting "ajar"
angle just room to squeeze through!
Through? Yes, and following an old wagon trail the explorers
for there are two (He and She) find themselves trending eastward
through a valley of perfect delight. It is one of those wonderful
ravine formations, without any perceptible descent into it and with
the contour of its sides broken into slopes that appear to trend off
into lost distances. Each and every slope has its peculiar charm of
woodland, and just now, Autumn had touched the foliage with an
indescribable charm. See the maples yonder! How they revel in
their glory of gold! And what an inspiration they are in their uplift
of gladsomeness ! And the number of them! Here, enthroned by a
group of courtly satellites all garbed in liveries of splendor, is a queen
of the woods. See how the flakes of gold float, as 'twere, between
earth and heaven. Later, they will become the sport of the winds.
The atmosphere is charged with woodsy sweets, such as only
Autumn distils. It is reminiscent of an old cedar chest in which
dried rose leaves and lavender, sweet marjory and thyme all com-
bine, with no particular essence predominating. Hark! 'Tis the
whisper of waters. Only a brooklet, clear and deep, but quickly
pursuing its onward way between a growth that helps to conceal
its course. It is not, as tradition asserts of its kind, a "babbling
brook." Like the Indian, it learned to be stealthy. So it just
whispers, low yet musically, fearing that some scientific explorer
may happen along and propose to harness it for a purpose. Poor
little brook! How nervously you swish beneath the primitive bridge
of logs and rude planks!
She: "This byway, in the long ago, was an Indian trail."
He: "Quite possible. Let's hunt for spear-heads, arrow-heads
and the like." She shakes her head as an intimation that she realizes
the little vein of irony in his proposition, and continues the tramp
onward.
"There! There it is!" And there was an " I-told-you-so!"
implied by the tone of voice. But, presently, both He and She,
delighted and proud, are chuckling before this magnificent old trail
tree. Close at hand there is water, a spring to all appearance. It
is probably the source of the low-purling brook which has been
crossed and re-crossed on their trend eastward.
There is now a gentle slope upward, but the explorers, like their
predecessors of old, thinking they are heading in a particular direc-
tion, discover a surprise, but not the one they had set out to find.
The ravine, or " Valley Road," as they designated it on their " charts,"
did not have its terminal at the Lake shore. It has surreptitiously
vanished beneath their feet and they find themselves on a plateau
of untold possibilities in its suggestion for a country seat. To tell
the truth, our explorers had expected to find something of the kind
already here, as the highway by which they had come was a well-
defined wagon road, not having been used perhaps for some twenty
Page hundred and sixty-one
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
years. But the problem of the road is solved. Observation of the
beautiful "Lakewoods" site imparts this solution:
That here, the Indian had a paradise along the North Shore; trails
ran in and out like a network. After the Indian, one leading trail
was used by the hunter and then covered by a wagon road, and
much later, it received a covering of slag, and primitive bridges were
built across the brook. For what purpose? That wood for fuel
might be conveyed to the railroad. The trees tell the story. Many
old monarchs have been slain. Some few remain. While the second
growth is now attaining its glory. The woods are, for this reason,
beautiful and promising in their rich variety. Groups of hemlock
growth are here, as well as the richest development of hickory trees
found in so close a proximity to the Lake along the North Shore.
One old trail tree lay prone. It must have been a marvel when
standing. Seated on its trunk, the crooked part forming a support
to the back, the explorers became familiar with the feathered tribe
haunting these particular woods. Allowing that many had migrated
southward, there remained variety enough to afford pleasurable
entertainment.
The bluff itself is finely sculptured, and has wooded inlets from
the beach that suggest great possibilities to the landscape architect.
One of these in particular, has a well-defined trail, descending from
the plateau, and continuing at a very gentle slope to the beach.
The red man undoubtedly originated this byway, and the white
hunter followed its lead.
"Lakewoods" is all that its title implies, woods by the lake.
The contour of this mile of frontage, and half a mile of depth is so
varied and so entrancing that its future as a site for country seats
to those desiring frontage, either on the Lake or Sheridan Road, is
assured. The automobile or the horse will solve the question of
living remote from the railway station.
LAKE FROM PORCH OF "THE MORAINE"
Highland Park
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CONGRESSMAN FOSS RECEIVING BATTALION
(Administration Building and Officers'
Quarters in Background.)
THE GREAT LAKES NAVAL
TRAINING STATION
I sing the sailor of the sea, breed of the oaken heart,
Who drew our world together and spread the race apart.
T. F. Day
CONGRESSMAN GEORGE EDMUND FOSS and the late
Graeme Stewart made no error of judgment when as delegates
to Washington they urged the merits of a particular site on our
beautiful North Shore, as one of desirability for the Great Lakes
Naval Station. The members of the Merchants and Commercial Clubs
of Chicago are also to be congratulated on their enterprise in pur-
chasing this tract of one hundred and eighty-two acres, and donating
it to the Government for the purpose named.
Thus far, the total amount expended for the construction of the
station, is $3,475,000. This station is located about half a mile south
of the incorporated village of North Chicago, and a mile and a half
north of Lake Bluff. It is on a plateau about eighty feet above Lake
Michigan and commanding an expansive view of the waters. Here,
where a ravine intersects the property, has been built a good harbor,
while the ravine itself has been evolved into the most picturesque
Page hundred and sixty-seven
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HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
lagoon, both harbor and lagoon serving its purpose for training in
the art of naval seamanship. On the beach is located a powerhouse
and pumping station. It is right within shelter of the high bluff
and forms no detriment to the scenic beauty of the site itself nor to
adjoining properties.
All the structures are of the most classic type, substantial and
imposing by reason of their very simplicity. They are as fireproof
as construction warrants, steam-heated and lighted by electricity.
The Administration building with its tower reaching an altitude of
300 feet above the bluff, commands a wide view of the water from
the east, and stretches of upland and prairie, forest and dreamy
ADMINISTRATION BUILDING
(West Entrance)
SKYLARKING WHILE OFF DUTY
woodlands to the west. From the entrance gate looking east this,
building is about a mile distant, and as the visitor walks over fine,
broad cement walks in this direction he is greeted by group after
group of structures facing the parade ground, that are in perfect
harmony in every detail with the central structure. Along the edge
of the bluff are placed the homes of the officers, the admiral's home
commanding the central point.
There is a fine drill hall and a mess hall, the entrance to the latter
might be that of a palace of the renaissance period. A magnificent
auditorium, fitted with a stage in proportion to its dimensions, where
entertainments as well as religious services are held and where verbal
instruction relating to the various branches of the service is given.
Entering the dormitories one becomes impressed with the absence of
cots. Looking upward, a series of queer-looking tackle, neat and
orderly in appearance, but suspended within a few inches of the
Page hundred and sixty-nine
Awaiting Drill Call, front of Drill Hall
South Entrance to Mess Hall
Signal Drill on the Receiving Group
GREAT LAKES NAVAL TRAINING STATION
Page hundred and seventy
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
ceiling is seen. At night these being lowered, develop into hammocks.
For our candidate for naval development must be no coddled, feather-
bed sailor ! It also requires courage to go under the shower in the
morning!
The kitchen designated galley is equipped with everything that
is up-to-date in the culinary art, and so immaculate that one almost
feared to set foot on the floor; while the bakery, with its automatic
dough mixer and dough trough, its mechanical cream whipper and
egg beater is as good as an appetizer. A fine gymnasium, fully equipped,
and containing devices for boom swinging, as well as a speedway, a
swimming pool and a bowling alley, all contribute recreation as well
as instruction.
The acres composing this site are enclosed by a high wrought-
iron fence on a base of masonry, presenting with its enclosure of
shrub growth and neatness of approach from whichever direction,
features that will prove a valuable asset to the future upbuilding of
the immediate vicinity.
For three weeks after the recruit is accepted, he is not allowed
outside the station. During this time the rough edges are toned
down and he has become accustomed to the rigid discipline, and at
recreation moments, he may, perhaps, be found prone on the grass,
battling with homesickness, or undergoing a tug with his inner con-
sciousness of the conditions to which he has bound himself. If he
is built of the right stuff, and this is the environment where the test
becomes critical, he gradually falls into the routine of duty and
begins to view life under a different aspect.
He now feels he is pressing toward a goal, for at the end of three
months he will be drafted to one of the various ships of the United
States Navy. In the meantime he has acquired considerable control
of himself, has learned to accomplish, and begins to feel he has a pur-
pose in life. His figure shows the effect of physical training, his
cheeks have assumed a ruddy hue, his eyes are bright with enthusiasm,
and love for the flag has become a religion. During all this time he
has slept in a hammock, has fed upon wholesome rations neither too
much nor too little. He has had lots of pleasure, too, football and
other sports, and his immaculate white uniform has now become a
matter for pride and he glories in the fact that he is associated with
an arm of the Government service entitled to respectful consideration.
O Jackies of the Great Lakes Naval Training Station, may war
never come! Yet if it should, the nation will find you are better
fighters, braver, more courageous and intrepid, from your sojourn on
our beautiful North Shore!
Future traditions will incorporate the visit of the Hon. William H.
Taft, President of the United States, who, on October 28, 1911,
dedicated the Naval Training Station to the "normal, physical and
ethical development of the young men of the nation." Legends will
tell of the reverberating echoes along the North Shore as heavy guns
welcomed the coming of a President; of his greeting to an elderly
woman who had known him some forty years ago ; of how the Jackies
in a thin white line advanced upon the encroaching crowd causing it
to fall back in an orderly manner.
Page hundred and seventy-one
Indian Trail Tree at Lake Bluff, 111.
THE CITY OF WAUKEGAN ITS LEGENDS
AND TRADITIONS
O'er that which hath been and o'er that which must be;
What we have seen our sons shall see;
Remnants of things that have passed away,
Fragments of stone reared by creatures of clay.
Byron.
THE "Little Fort" of the pioneer is Waukegan of today. "Little
Fort" received mention in a history of the United States, pub-
lished in London, 1795. There is also a map in this old work,
made according to the treaty of 1783. Two places are indicated on
the western shore of Lake Michigan, Chicago and Little Fort, the
latter being designated at the mouth of a stream Old Fort River.
It is but natural to infer then, that previous to 1783, there was a
fort of much older significance, than that which is later brought
to notice.
Tradition cherishes the probability of La Salle and one or more
of his company having been in this immediate vicinity in 1679. Did
he build a fort here? And was this "Old Fort" to which reference
is made in the early English map? La Salle's scheme, as we know,
was to erect a chain of forts from Lake Ontario to the mouth of
the Mississippi, and so establish the supreme right of France to reign
over this broad inland territory.
When the very earliest settlers hunters and traders, principally
came among the Indians, on the site now covered by the city of
Waukegan, legends were not wanting in the confirmation of the
supposition that La Salle here builded a fort. The descendants of
the tribes occupying"*this vicinity in the seventeenth century, per-
sisted in the statement that an Indian village of some pretentions,
Page hundred and seventy-two
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
existed in this neighborhood at the time the "Old Fort" was erected.
That the designation of " Little Fort" was used by the Pottawattomies
to distinguish the latter and its location from the earlier structure and
its site. This legend was again and again detailed to the early settlers,
and is rightly cherished by their descendants.
These settlers found decaying timbers enough, together with some
rude earthworks, to verify the fact of the existence of the " Little
Fort." It had probably been erected by hunters and traders as a
protection against, or an intimidation toward any hostilities on the
part of the Indians. This rude stockade enclosure stood at the inter-
section of Water Street and Sheridan Road, Waukegan.
It is also interesting to be able to confirm the existence of this
latter structure previous to 1825. One, William Hamilton, drove a
herd of cattle from Springfield, Illinois, to Green Bay, Wisconsin, in
the year named, following, from Chicago, the Lake as closely as
possible, though not immediately on its shore. Mr. Hamilton clearly
stated that these ruins were designated "Little Fort." He is not
very clear, however, in speaking of distances, although he describes
the location. Undoubtedly, this was one of his landmarks by the
way, as he was taking cattle to a detachment of the United States
soldiery, then stationed at Green Bay, and his instructions as to the
highway he should follow, as well as of the particular landmarks by
which he might recognize the same, would be explicit. This is why
that of "Little Fort" remained in his memory. It was a distin-
guishing object of guidance along the route.
The acknowledgment in the old English book of a stream here
designated as "Old Fort River" would indicate the existence of a
well known fort in this vicinity, while the ruins of "Little Fort,"
together with the rich yield of Indian relics, spear-heads, arrow-heads,
tomahawks, and even skeletons, together with bits of wrought metal
suggestive of accoutrements worn by the French soldiery of La Salle's
day, are all strong links in a chain of evidence of the site of Wau-
kegan being rife with traditional import. This atmosphere yet lingers.
The student of research becomes possessed with an intense desire to
dig and to delve, until the secret of that which is now vague and
mysterious be forced to the open. For Waukegan of today, is an
association of past with present; of the yesterday treading closely
upon the heels of today. It is old, it is new; it is youthful yet aged;
it puzzles, it distracts, this city by the lake which retains its Indian
title.
The early settlers aspired to build a city that should become of
some importance as a shipping point. With this end in view, a com-
pany was organized in Chicago as early as 1835. One of its members,
Thomas Jenkins, became Waukegan's pioneer merchant and the
builder of the first frame structure in the township. Tradition locates
it within shelter of the bluff just north of the big ravine. The popu-
lation of "Little Fort," at this period, was represented by those who
inhabited the five log cabins and who worked in the very unpre-
tentious sawmill.
By vote of the people, Little Fort obtaining a majority of 188
out of 744 votes, the county seat, on April 13, 1841, was established
Page hundred and seventy-three
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE
here. Feeling ran high at this change of location on the Lake, and
for years the resentment made itself felt in political issues. One
hundred and sixty acres at one dollar and twenty-five cents per acre
were pre-empted for the county seat. Those who possessed claims
upon the chosen site showed their appreciation of the conditions by
releasing them in favor of the county.
The latter had no funds in its treasury wherewith to make the
purchase, but it had been whispered among those directly interested,
that one of the pioneers had been heard to say that he had two
hundred dollars in gold, which the commissioners might have as a
loan. And Elmsley Sunderlin became immortalized in the traditions
of Lake County. He was a live, active worker for progression, and
Waukegan owes much to just such men of this period, that earnestly
worked for the good of the community at large. The first courthouse
was destroyed by fire in 1875. In 1887 the present courthouse was
erected at a cost of forty thousand dollars. It is barely large enough
at the present time to meet its requirements.
In connection with the changing of the county seat to "Little Fort"
there are many incidents worthy of record. The "For Burlington"
people charged the "For Little Fort" contingent with illegal voting,
which was easily and readily disproved. Then followed a question
of legal technicalities, and Dr. Richard Murphy, the first resident of
Lake County to represent the people in the Illinois legislature, secured
the passage of an Act declaring the county seat should be considered
permanently established at "Little Fort." Captain Morris Robinson,
who had been one of the active workers toward this end, resolved
to go to Springfield to also urge the passing of this Act.
It was mid-winter, and the legend runs that neither he nor his
friends in or about "Little Fort" had a horse available for the trip.
Nothing daunted, the enthusiastic pioneer set out on foot. Much of
his life had been spent on the sea, but pioneering had developed a
love for walking and he footed it to Springfield, ever after boasting
that he had beat the stage from Chicago by two days!
"Little Fort Porcupine and Democratic Banner" was the pioneer
newspaper. Its distinguishing insignia was a wood engraving, repre-
senting a porcupine with quills set in battle array, intimating the
spirit of its projectors, who fearlessly hit right and left, regardless of
political party, and pricked the pride and temper, if not the con-
sciences, of all public officials, who, in its estimation, stood in need
of editorial lambasting. Its initial number, issued March 4, 1845,
proclaims the fact, that in Little Fort, at that time, there were 452
inhabitants, three commodious public houses, seven stores, two black-
smith shops, one tin and sheet iron factory, two shoe shops, three
tailor shops, one chair and cabinet factory, three warehouses, one pier
and a second being constructed, and two brickyards. In this same
number is also the following introductory:
"Today, March 4th, is notable for two things. It is inauguration
day with President Polk and Vice- President Dallas, as well as with
'Little Fort Porcupine and Democratic Banner.' Great day this at
Little Fort and Washington!" The paper does not seem to have
met with all the encouragement the enterprise deserved, for on April
1 6th of the same year, appears the following:
Page hundred and seventy-four
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAY S P AST AND PRESENT
" Eugene Sue in his new work, 'The Wandering Jew,' endeavors
to show that this being is to wander over every foot of earth, try
every imaginable plain of life, occupy all stations and to drain to the
dregs the cup of each conceivable misery. We wonder if the punish-
ment can be complete without he published a newspaper at 'Little
Fort'!"
"Little Fort" having attained a population of 2,500, sought incor-
poration as a village, desiring, also, that the Act of Incorporation
provide for the change in its title, to that of the Pottawattomie
equivalent, Waukegan, and by an Act of the Legislature, February 12,
1849, these petitions were granted.
New Year's Day, 1855, is incorporated in the traditions of Wau-
kegan as the beginning of a new era. For the high bluffs upon which
the city of today stands, became conscious of an unusual tremor and
vibration, as smoothly gliding over a magic trail, at their base, came
the advance guard of a new order. The iron horse snorts with satis-
faction, and every now and again, gives vent to bursts of exhilaration
as it appropriates the right of way, inch by inch, over the highway
of accommodation and commerce. It has urged its way northward
over part of an historic by-way, which of necessity it has cut in two
here, and paralleled there, but the adjoining wooded heights now
catch the rhythmic melody of its joyous progress, and " Hap-py-New-
Year! Hap-py-New-Year! Fair- Waukegan ! New-Wau-ke-gan" is
projected through and over the site, where, but yesterday, the Indian
was lord of the soil, and where tradition avers that the ambitious
ambassador from France erected the fort, which in a little more than
a century afterward, was designated on the English map as "Old."
Many legends are still afloat regarding the method of transporta-
tion during the period of railroad construction. Stage routes were
established between Milwaukee and Waukegan, and between the
latter and the nearest point of approach of the railroad, each trip of
the stage being shortened according to the closer reach of the rail-
road. A twelve mile walk was nothing in those days, and men and
women in these earlier times more frequently "rode shank's mare,"
covering distances which today is looked upon as impossible.
On January eleventh of this same year, Waukegan resolved itself
into the position of host and hostess and gave a party in commemora-
tion of the coming of the railroad. The day before, a detachment of
artillery, under Lieutenant Hadley, had arrived from Chicago, to take
part in the celebration. On the morning of the eleventh Old Sol
emerged from the far horizon of the Lake, in very gracious mood.
The waters were touched with regal splendor, the corrugated bluffs
smiled and dimpled in response, while the forests stood etched against
a sky-line of ethereal blue. It was "unusual weather," and as such
has found its way into tradition.
It is now noon and the "special" from Chicago, composed of a
train of flat cars, bearing officials and guests to the celebration will
soon hove in view. And right on time it came at half past twelve
having covered the distance 35 miles in two hours and a half!
Quick time in that early day. A boom of cannon, the cheers of the
enthusiastic people, and a band of music proclaimed its arrival.
Page hundred and seventy-five
BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE
Imagine what an event this was to the pioneers and their families!
Many of whom were seeing a locomotive for the first time! Yes,
little by little, the east was being linked with the west and then they
would not seem so far apart. A procession to the courthouse square
where speeches were made, a banquet, at which four hundred partici-
pated, and a ball in the evening, closed a memorable day in the his-
tory of Waukegan.
Later, over the steel trail, came the Hon. Stephen Douglas, address-
ing an audience from an improvised platform close to the railroad
station. Mr. Douglas had been a visitor before the coming of the
railroad, addressing a large audience from the courthouse square.
The second of April, 1860, Abraham Lincoln spoke to a large audi-
ence in Dickinson Hall. He was warmly welcomed, for already Mr.
Lincoln was looked upon as a possible candidate for the presidency.
"The Waukegan Gazette," however (a live paper today), named
Lincoln for second place on the ticket, giving preference to Simon
Cameron as president. The Hon. C. A. Partridge, in his reminiscent
mood of this particular occasion, writes, in his valuable " History of
Lake County:"
" Looking back upon it, and remembering that this gathering was
but six weeks prior to the date set for the convention in which Mr.
Lincoln was finally named for the highest office in the gift of the
American people, and that the very air was surcharged with political
excitement and with forebodings of the great military struggle so
soon to begin, it seems remarkable that all mention of the meeting
in the local paper was confined to a brief paragraph."
During Mr. Lincoln's speech there came the ominous sound of the
firebell. Naturally, the audience evinced symptoms of uneasiness.
The chairman, Hon. E. P. Ferry, endeavored to allay the fears of
the audience by remarking that there was no cause for alarm for it
was but a practical joke on the part of political opponents in an
endeavor to break up the meeting, and begged the distinguished
speaker to proceed. But Mr. Lincoln had caught sight of the red
glare from without, and in his quiet manner, said: "I think there
is a fire. You had better go and try to save the property. I can
come some other time and speak to you." With a few friends and
from a point of vantage on the beach Mr. Lincoln witnessed the
destruction of a warehouse on the lake shore.
For a number of years before the coming of the railroad Waukegan
had been considered a thriving shipping port. Before its first pier
was constructed, in the summer of 1841, passengers and freight had
been transferred from passing vessels to lighters. But not until 1845
did steamboats come with any marked regularity. Each River and
Harbor Bill since 1881 carried an appropriation for the maintenance
and improvement of the harbor.
Waukegan is about thirty-five miles north of Chicago. It had
every advantage for the evolution of a City Beautiful, but was destined,
even from its earliest incipiency, to become a City Commercial; and
the "beautiful," except in instances, in which individual citizens and
the City Fathers have striven to retain the rich gifts bestowed by
Nature, lies in abeyance.
Page hundred and seventy-six
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT
At the base of its towering and picturesque bluffs is a stretch of
smooth sandy beach from ^one-eighth to/me-third of a mile in width.
This latter has been appropriated to manufacturing purposes and the
right of way of the railroad. The city itself is on the plateau above.
Its streets are intersected by beautifully wooded ravines, which are
bridged for convenience, and Sheridan Road takes its way along the
bluff, commanding an expansive view of the Lake. Many of the
early homes and a few of the most pretentious houses were built
along this street, long, long before it became designated as a part of
one of the world's famous driveways; and, perhaps, long before it
was realized that an array of smokestacks, albeit out of direct view,
might frequently veil the sapphire of the waters in a murk of smoke.
Waukegan has well paved streets, up-to-date curbings and avenues
rich with a fine maple growth. It has good schools, fine churches
and a well built and artistic public library. In the basement of the
latter are the headquarters of the Lake County Historical Society.
A wealth of material is gathered here awaiting classification.
Awaiting a throb of responsive appreciation from the people of the
county itself, who should, without unnecessary delay, awaken to the
fact that it is absolutely essential, if they expect consideration in the
archives of the future, to swell the membership of this small but
enthusiastic organization, that is doing so much to preserve the
traditions and legends of Lake County.
When one realizes what has already been accomplished under
difficulties, the assurance presents itself that Waukegan is destined
in the near future to an evolution in which the artistic will touch
elbow with the commercial, and laying hold of its many natural
advantages, seek development in the interest of the utmost good for
the greatest number, by making a city park which shall be unequalled
in scenic beauty and picturesqueness by anything of the kind along
the North Shore.
Page hundred
Trail Tree at Glencoe, 111. an3 twenty-seven
BOOK OP THE NORTH SHORE
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Jesuit Relations, Thwaites.
Early Voyages Mississippi, Shea.
Indian Landmarks North Shore, Grover.
Past and Present Lake County, Illinois, Haines.
Lake County, Partridge.
Old Newspaper Files.
The Author also desires to express appreciation of the helpful courtesy
shown by the Chicago Historical Society; by Mr. Robert M. Ingalls, Mr. C.
T. Heydecker, and Miss Bess T. Bowers, all of Waukegan, 111., and to the
descendants of the families of the early settlers.
CONTENTS
PAGE
FOREWORD 5
HIGHWAYS AND BYWAYS PAST AND PRESENT:
The Highway is Opened 7
Glimpses of Lake County 23
Lake Forest, the College City of the North Shore 39
Highland Park, the North Shore Pioneer of Country Seats S3
The Highway Southward to Chicago 135
The Favorite Pastime on the North Shore, "The Royal Game of Goff" t4S
Passing Vistas 155
Exploration and Discovery 159
The Great Lakes Naval Training Station 167
The City of Waukegan, its Legends and Traditions 173
Index to Illustrations 179, 180
Page hundred and seventy-eight
ILLUSTRATIONS
Alice Home, Lake Forest 18
Bluffs at Ravinia Park 62
Bridge at " Haven Wood," Lake Forest. . . 8
"Broadly Sweeping Right and Left" 19
Country Clubs Onwentsia, Exmoor, Lake
Shore, Skokie and Glen View
23-37, 65, 144-153
Diverging Highways 22
Durand Commons, Lake Forest 45
Durand Institute, Lake Forest 42
Entrance to "Pinewold," Lake Forest. , .Cover
Fort Sheridan 154
Gymnasium, Lake Forest 39
Harlan and Blackstone Halls, Lake Forest. 44
Heights at "Miralago," Hlghand Park... 2
High School, Highland Park 58
Index Homes and Gardens 180
Indian Trail, Lakewoods 158
Indian Trail Trees 136, 138. 172, 177
Interior North Shore Trust Company Bank,
Highland Park 106
Lake and the Forest 16
Lake and Lawrence Avenue Crib 133
Lake from the Lake Forest Park 20
Lake from the Bluffs at Lakewoods 163
Lake from "Moraine," Highland Park. . . . 165
Lakewoods, Views in 157-165
Lois Durand Hall, Lake Forest 48
McCormicks' Bridge, Lake Forest 38
Moonlight on Lake Michigan 6
Naval Training Station, North Chicago
i 66- 170
New Presbyterian Church, Highland Park. 53
Old Port Clinton Lighthouse 54
Ouilmette Country Club 1 16
Parkway and Nursery, Highland Park 93
Ravine, Highland Park 159
Reid Hall, Lake Forest 40
Reid Memorial Chapel, Lake Forest 46
Reid Memorial Library, Lake Forest 50
Roger Williams Avenue, Ravinia 64
Stone Gate, Lake Forest 21
Suggested Harbor at Lake Forest 52
Sweeney Log Cabin, Fort Sheridan 155
Trail to the Beach, Lakewoods 162
Turn in the Road 15
Union Church, Glencoe 108
Valley Road, Lakewoods 158
Valley of the Skokie, Highland Park 87
Vista in Lake Forest Park 17
Waverly Avenue Bridge, Highland Park.. 56
White Birches 142
Wooded Bluffs 26
Page hundred find seventy-nine
ILLUSTRATIONS
HOMES AND GARDENS
Albright, Adam Emory 1 1 .j Kuppenheimer, J 28
Alexander, H. E i 20, i 2 i Laflin, Louis E 30
Armour, J. Ogrlem 7 Lynch. M i 23
Bahr, Fritz 93, 107 Marsh. Marshall S 70
Beatty, R. J 102 McCormick, Harold Fowler 10, 1 1
Cagney, James E 126 Metzel, E. B : 79
Carpenter, A. A. Jr 12 Moeng, E. D 124. 125
Carqueville, Alexander R 97 Moras, Edmond R., M. D 66-69
Case, Frank A 130, 13 i Patterson, J. W 24
Clarke, Henry Bertrande 74,75 Raymond, Jules N 119
Clements, Thomas 77 "Ridgewood" 88-92
Compton, F. E 109 Ritchie. Mrs. H. R 104
Couch, Ira J 146 Roberts, Charles J 117
Curtis, John F. L 105 Roberts, George W 100
Deerpath Inn 24 Seyfarth, Robert 103
DeMuth, Benj. F 78 Shannon, Mrs. Maud Holbrook 104
Dox, Charles E 149 Shaw, J. B 134
Dyer, George T 115 Smith, C. F. Mather 81
Ebeling, George C 107 Smith, Robert S 135
Everhart, George P 96 Squire, Benjamin A 122
Fahrney, Wm. H 128 Terbell, J. B 82
Fishback, Hon. Chas. F 98, 99 Thayer, Clarence Holmes 71
Fitzgerald, Burt J 108 Thayer, Henry J 76
Foreman, Oscar G i 1 1 Tyner, E 83
Frost, Charles S 14 Upham, Frederic W 148
Glidden, Grace 102 Wardrop, Walter 103
Gunder, S. H 127 Washington, Alf 1 10
Hardin, John R 1 1 2, 1 13 Watkins, Elias M 101
Harrington, Stephen Harris 72, 73 Wean, Frank L 80
Hately, Walter C 94, 95 Weinand, Mrs. John N 132
Hawkins, Frank P 55 Whitney, C. P 118
Irwin, The Misses 104 Will, Dr. Harry Clayton 129
Kaempfer, Fred 118 Williams. Lucian M 84-86
Page hundred and eighty
UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS-URBAN*
SECOND BOOK OF THE NORTH SHORE. HOMES. G
