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SHMIHKEETON'S
LAST VOYAGE
THE STORY OF
THE "QUEST"
COMM:,^NDER
. FRANK WILD, C.B.E,
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The Estate
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SHAGKLETON'S LAST VOYAGE
Photo: Wilkins.
THE CAIRN
SHACKLETON'S
LAST VOYAGE.
The Story of the Quest. By
Commander FRANK WILD,G.B.E.
From the OflScial Journal and Private
Diary kept by Dr. A. H. MACK LIN
With Frontispiece in Colour, numerous Maps
and over lOO Illustrations from Photographs
CASSELL AND COMPANY, LTD
London, New York, Toronto and Melbourne
1923
Gr
if J I
ia
?"irst Published Afay 1923.
Second Edition June 1923.
Reprinted November 11^23
848750
Printed in Great Britain
To
THE BOSS
"Yonder the far horizon lies,
And there by night and day
The old ships draw to port again.
The young ships sail away.
And go I must and come I may,
And if men ask you why,
You may lay the blame on the stars and the sun
And the white road and the sky."
Gerald Gould
PREFACE
SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON died suddenly; so
suddenly that he said no word at all with regard to
the future of the expedition. But I know that had he
foreseen his death and been able to communicate to me
his wishes, they would have been summed up in the two
words, " Carry on ! "
Perhaps the most difficult part of my task has been
the recording of the work of the expedition. It has been
to me a very sad duty, and one which I would gladly
have avoided had it been possible. The demand, how-
ever, for the complete story of Sir Ernest Shackleton's
last expedition has been so widespread and insistent that
I could no longer withhold it.
In the subsequent pages of this book the reader will
find recorded the story of the voyage of the Quest, the
tight little ship that carried us through over twenty thou-
sand miles of stormy ocean and brought us safely back.
I make no claim to literary style, but have
endeavoured to set forth a plain and simple narrative.
The writings of explorers vary, but in my opinion
they have all one common fault, which is, that they have
attempted to combine in one volume the scientific results
with the more popular story of the expedition.
This book is for the public. I have sought to
vii
Preface
eliminate the mass of scientific details with which my
journal is filled, to avoid technical terms, and to retain
only that which can be easily understood by all.
Of the parts of the narrative that deal with Sir
Ernest Shackleton I have passed over very shortly.
Pens far more able than mine, notably those of Mr.
Harold Begbie and Dr. Hugh Robert Mill, have written
of his life and character.
Though I was his companion on every one of his
expeditions, I know little of his life at home. It is a
curious thing that men thrown so closely together as
those engaged in Polar work should never seek to know
anything of each other's " inside " affairs. But to the
" Explorer " Shackleton I was joined by ties so strongly
welded through the many years of common hardship and
struggle that to write of him at all is extremely difficult.
Nothing I could set down can convey what I feel, and
I have a horror of false and wordy sentiment. I trust,
therefore, that those readers who may think that I have
dealt too lightly with the parts of the story which more
intimately concern him will sympathize and respect my
feelings in the matter.
I must take this opportunity of acknowledging my
deep feeling of gratitude to Mr. John Quiller Rowett.
What the expedition owes to him no one, not even its
individual members, can ever realize. There have been
many supporters of enterprises of this nature, but usually
they have sought from it some commercial gain. Mr.
Rowett's support was due solely to his keen interest in
scientific research, which he had previously instituted
viu
Preface
and encouraged in other fields. He bore practically the
whole financial burden, and this expedition is almost
unique in that it was clear of debt at the time of its
return.
But, in addition to this, I owe him much for his
kindly encouragement, his clear, sound judgment, and
his unfailing assistance whenever I have sought it. Mrs.
Rowett has given me invaluable assistance throughout
the preparation of the book and has corrected the proofs.
For her kindly hospitality I owe more than I can say,
for to myself and others of the expedition her house has
ever been open, and we have received always the most
kindly welcome. In this connexion I could say a great
deal, but it would be inadequate to convey what I feel.
The expedition owes also a debt of gratitude to Sir
Frederick Becker, for his encouraging assistance was
rendered early in its inception.
To the many public-spirited firms who came forward
with offers of assistance to what was considered a
national enterprise I must make my acknowledgments.
It is regrettable that many of the smaller suppliers of
the expedition seized the chance of a cheap advertise-
ment at the time of our departure, but a number of the
more reputable firms made no stipulation of any sort,
but presented us with goods as a free gift. I can assure
them that I do not lightly regard their share in helping
on the work, for we were thus enabled to carry in our
food stores only the best of products. Sir Ernest
Shackleton rigidly eliminating all goods which he felt
unable to trust.
IX
Preface
To Mr. James A. Cook I owe much for the hard
work he has done at all times and for the help which he
rendered whilst the expedition was away from England.
To my many other friends who have at one time and
another been of assistance I tender my grateful acknow-
ledgments, knowing full well that they will realize how
impossible it is for me to thank them all by name.
I must thank Dr. Macklin for the care he took in
keeping the official diary of the expedition. This and
his own private journal, from which I have freely quoted,
have both been invaluable to me.
To " The Boys," those who stood by me and gave
me their loyal service throughout an arduous and trying
period, I say nothing — for they know how I feel.
Frank Wild.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER
I. Inception
2. London to Rio de Janeiro
3. Rio to South Georgia
4. Death of Sir Ernest Shackleton
5. Preparations in South Georgia
6. Into the South
7. The Ice .
8. Elephant Island
9. South Georgia (Second Visit)
10. The Tristan da Cunha Group
11. Tristan da Cunha . . By Dr. Macklin
12. Tristan da Cunha (continued) ,, ,,
13. Diego Alvarez or Gough Island
14. Cape Town
15. St. Helena — ^Ascension Island— St. Vincent
16. Home
Appendices
I. — Geological Observations
II. — Natural History .
III. — Meteorology
IV. — Hydrographic Work
V. — Medical
List of Personnel .
Index ....
I
16
44
64
71
80
122
155
173
199
210
243
265
287
294
310
314
328
340
343
352
366
367
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
The Cairn Colour Frontispiece
Plate facing page
1. Sir Ernest Shackleton in Polar Clothing ... 4
2. Mr. John Quiller Rowett ...... 5
3. A Diagrammatic View of the Quest . . . .6
4. Sectional Views of the Quest 7
5. The Sperry Gyroscopic Compass 10
6. The Enclosed Bridge of the Quest 11
7. The Quest at Hay's Wharf 12
8. Kerr (Chief Engineer) Examining the Lucas Deep-sea
Sounding Machine ....... 13
9. The Wireless Operating Room — The Ward Room of the
Quest ......... 20
10. The Quest Passing the Tower of London on her way to the
Sea — The Schermuly Portable Rocket Apparatus . 21
11. The Quest in the North-east Trades .... 28
12. The Tow Net in Use 29
13. A Porpoise which was Harpooned from the Bowsprit . 32
14. Query — The Boss Gives Query a Bath .... 33
15. Landing the Shore Party at St. Paul's Rocks . . 48
16. The White-capped Noddy {Anous stolidus) on St. Paul's
Rocks — The Booby (Sula leucogastra) ... 49
17. Commander Worsley Superintending Work in the Rigging
at Rio de Janeiro ....... 50
18. The Quest in Gritviken Harbour . . . . -Si
19. The Whaling Station at Gritviken .... 62
20. Sunset on the Slopes of South Georgia .... 63
21. The Resting Place of a Great Explorer .... 64
22. The Picturesque Setting of Prince Olaf Station . . 65
23. Prince Olaf WhaHng Station . . . . . 68
24. A Steam WTialer with Two Whales brought in for
Flensing — Huge Blue Whales at South Georgia . 69
25. The " Plan " at Gritviken, with a Whale in Process of
Being Flensed . . . .... 76
xiii
List of Illustrations
Plate facing page
26. Leith Harbour, South Georgia 77
27. Chart of Larsen Harbour — The Entrance to Larsen
Harbour 80
28. An Expedition in Search of Fresh Food — Marr, Mcllroy,
Commander Wild, MackUn . . . . .81
29. Commander Wild ....... 82
30. A Small Berg — A Curious " Toothed " Berg ... 83
31. A Lovely Evening in the Sub- Ant arctic ... 86
32. Too Many Cooks — Our First Deep-sea Sounding . 87
33. The Western End of Zavodovski Island, showing
Grounded Icebergs ....... 90
34. Sentinel of the Antarctic ...... 91
35. A Typical Scene at the Pack Edge .... 94
36. Killers Rising to " Blow " — The Quest Pushing Through
Thin Ice ........ 95
37. Loose Open Pack— Loose Pack Ice, with the Sea Rapidly
Freezing Over . . . . . . .96
38. The Midnight Sun 97
39. The Loneliness of the Pack 100
40. An Unpleasant but Necessary Duty — Taking Crab-eater
Seals for Food ....... loi
41. Commander Wild at the Masthead .... 108
42. Pushing South Through Heavy Pack — The Quest Plough-
ing Through Heavy Ice Pack 109
43. The Quest at her Farthest South— Jeffrey and Douglas
taking Observations for Magnetic Dip . . .112
44. Heavy Pressed-up Pack Ice, the Quest in the Distance —
Commander Wild and Worsley Examining a Newly
Formed " Lead " in the Pack Ice . . . .113
45. The Quest Pushing North Through Rapidly Freezing Ice 114
46. " Watering " Ship with Floe Ice 115
47. Emperor Penguins on the Floe : A Still Evening in the
Pack 118
48. Frozen Spray . . . . . . . .119
49. Commander Wild's Watch : Mcllroy, Carr, Wild, Macklin —
The " Black " Watch : Ross, Argles, Young, Kerr, Smith 122
50. Worsley's Watch: Douglas, Wilkins, Watts, Worsley—
Jeffrey's Watch : McLeod, Marr, Jeffrey, Dell . .123
51. Chipping Frozen Spray from the Gunwales . . .126
52. The Quest Beset near Ross's Appearance of Land . 127
53. Rowett Island, off Cape Lookout, Elephant Island . 150
xiv
List of Illustrations
Plate facing page
54. The Kent " Clear- View " Screen — Approaching Cape
Lookout 151
55. Loading Sea-elephants' Blubber, Elephant Island . . 154
56. Somnolent Content : a Sea-elephant on Elephant Island —
Ringed Penguins and a Paddy Bird (Chionis alba) . 155
57. Shackleton's Last Anchorage — McLeod and Marr clearing
up After a Blizzard 160
58. Sugar Top Mountain, Part of the AUardyce Range, South
Georgia ......... 161
59. A Glacier Face in South Georgia .... . 176
60. A Rocky Outcrop in South Georgia .... 177
61. Distended Whale Carcasses in Prince Olaf Harbour . 178
62. Cape Pigeons {Daption capensis) at South Georgia . 179
63. The Northern Coast of Drygalski Fiord — Cape Saunders 182
64. The New Type of Whaler— The Black-browed Albatross
or MoUymauk ........ 183
65. A Pair of Adult Wandering Albatross — A Young Albatross 186
66. Gentoo Penguin Feeding its Chick — The Chick after
Feeding 187
67. On the Way to the Cairn — Looking Shorewards from the
Cairn 190
68. Our Farewell to the Boss 191
69. The Settlement at Tristan da Cunha from the Sea — View
of the Settlement from the East .... 208
70. Landing at Big Beach, Tristan da Cunha — A Tristan
Bullock Cart 209
71. Nightingale Island — Inaccessible Island . . . 224
72. Wireless Pole being erected, Tristan — Carr and Douglas
with Two Tristan Guides, Henry Green and Glass . 225
73. John Glass and Family — ^The Mission House on Tristan
da Cunha . . ... . . . . 240
74. The " Potato Patches " on Tristan da Cunha . . 241
75. Tristan Women Twisting Wool — ^The Tristan Method of
Carding Wool 256
76. Henry Green's Cottage, Tristan da Cunha — ^The Oldest
Inhabitant of Tristan da Cunha, Miss Betty Cotton . 257
77. View of Gough Island from the Glen Anchorage . . 262
78. The Apostle, an Acid Intrusive near the Summit of Gough
Island — ^The Little Glen where the New Sophora was
Discovered ....... 263
XV
List of Illustrations
Plate facikg page
79. On the Way to the Summit 266
80. The Glen Anchorage from the Higher Slopes . . . 267
81. The Quest seen through the Archway Rock, Gough Island 276
82. Dell Rocks, at the North-eastern End of Glen Beach . 277
83. Lot's Wife Cove and Church Rocks, Gough Island . . 284
84. Lot's Wife, Gough Island 285
85. The Quest Entering Table Bay— The Quest in Dock at
Cape Town ........ 288
86. The Summit of Ascension Island ..... 289
8y. The Abandoned Wireless Station on Ascension Island —
Flowering Plants Growing in the Volcanic Ash at Ascen-
sion Island ........ 304
88. Wideawake Plain, Ascension Island — A Wideawake . 305
89. Weatherpost Hill, Ascension Island, Looking East . . 308
90. A View in San Miguel in the Azores .... 309
91. Booby with Chick — A Booby Chick .... 316
92. Types of Fish Caught in the Lagoon at St. Paul's Rocks
— White-capped Noddies at St. Paul's Rocks . . 317
93. Gent 00 Penguin with Two Chicks — Nesting Ground of the
Mollymauk 320
94. Giant Petrel at Nest 321
95. The Surface of a Glacier, showing Numerous Crevasses . 336
96. Sea-elephants in Tussock Grass ..... 337
97. The Island Tree {Phylica nitida) — Sea-elephants among
the Rocks 340
98. Commander Worsley taking Observations of the Sun by
Sextant — Hussey (Taking Sea Temperatures), Com-
mander Wild and Mcllroy ..... 341
99. Setting up Kites for the Taking of Meteorological Observa-
tions 348
100 An Apparatus for Bringing Up Specimens of the Sea
Bottom ......... 349
XVI
Shackleton's Last Voyage
CHAPTER I
INCEPTION
AFTER the finish of the Great War, which had
. employed every able-bodied man in the country in
one way or another, Sir Ernest Shackleton returned to
London and wrote his famous epic " South," the story
of the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. Before it
was finished he had again felt the call of the ice, and
concluded his book with the following sentence :
" Though some have gone, there are enough to rally
round and form a nucleus for the next expedition, when
troublous times are over, and scientific exploration can
once more be legitimately undertaken."
For many years he had had an inclination to take
an expedition into the Arctic and compare the two ice
zones. He felt, too, a keen desire to pit himself against
the American and Norwegian explorers who of recent
years had held the foremost position in Arctic explora-
tion, to win for the British flag a further renown, and to
add to the sum of British achievements in the frozen
North.
There is still, in spite of the long and unremitting
siege which has gradually tinted the uncoloured portions
of the map and brought within our ken section after
section of the unexplored areas, a large blank space
B 1
2 Shackleton's Last Voyage
comprising what is known as the Beaufort Sea, approxi-
mately in the centre of which is the point called by
Stefansson the " centre of the zone of inaccessibility."
It was the exploration of this area that Sir Ernest made
his aim. In addition he felt a strong desire to clear up
the mystery of the North Pole, and for ever settle the
Peary-Cook controversy, which did so much to alienate
public sympathy from Polar enterprise.
It is characteristic of him that before proceeding
with any part of the organization he wrote first to Mr.
Stefansson, the Canadian explorer, to ask if the new
expedition would interfere with any plan of his. He
received in reply a letter saying that not only did it not
interfere in any way, but that he (Stefansson) would be
glad to afford any help that lay in his power and put at
his disposal any information which might prove valuable.
Sir Ernest's plans were the result of several years
of hard work with careful reference to the records of
previous explorers, and his organization was remarkable
for its completeness and detail.
The proposed expedition had an added interest in
that the whole of his Polar experience was gained in the
Antarctic. It met with instant recognition from the lead-
ing scientists and geographers of this country, who saw
in it far-reaching and valuable results. The Council
of the Royal Geographical Society sent a letter which
showed their appreciation of the importance of the work,
and expressed their approval of himself as commander
<tiid of the names he had submitted as those of men
eminently qualified to make a strong personnel for the
expedition.
Sir Ernest Shackleton was fortunate in securing the
active co-operation in the working out of his plans of
Inception 3
Dr. H. R. Mill, the greatest living authority on Polar
regions.
The scheme, however, was an ambitious one, and
was likely to prove costly.
The period following the end of the war was perhaps
not a suitable one in many ways to commence an under-
taking of this nature, for Sir Ernest had the greatest
difficulty in raising the necessary funds. In this country
he received the support of Mr. John Quiller Rowett and
Sir Frederick Becker.
Feeling that the work of exploration and the possible
discovery of new lands in what may be called the Cana-
dian sector of the Arctic was likely to be of interest to
the Canadian Government, he visited Ottawa, where he
was in close touch with many of the leading members
of the Canadian House of Commons. He returned to
this country well pleased with his visit, and stated that
he had obtained the active co-operation of several
prominent Canadians and received from the Canadian
Government the promise of a grant of money.
He was now in a position to start work, and
immediately threw himself into the preparation of the
expedition. He got together a small nucleus of men
well known to him, including some who had accom-
panied him on the Endurance expedition, designed and
ordered a quantity of special stores and equipment,
and bought a ship which cost as an initial outlay
;^ii,ooo. Dr. Macklin was sent to Canada to buy and
collect together at some suitable spot a hundred good
sledge-dogs of the '' Husky " type.
It would be impossible to convey an accurate idea of
the closely detailed work which is involved in the pre-
paration for a Polar expedition. Much of the equipment
4 Shackleton's Last Voyage
is of a highly technical nature and requires to be specially
manufactured. Everything must be carried and nothing
must be forgotten, for once away the most trivial article
cannot be obtained. Everything also must be of good
quality and sound design; and each article, whatever
it may be, must function properly when actually put
into use.
At what was almost the last moment, whilst prepara-
tions were in full swing, the Canadian Government,
being more or less committed to a policy of retrench-
ment, discovered that they were not in a position to
advance funds for this purpose, and withdrew their
support. This was a great blow, for it made impossible
the continuance of the scheme.
In the meantime the bulk of the personnel had been
collected, some of the men having come from far distant
parts of the world to join in the adventure, abandon-
ing their businesses to do so. Some of us, know-
ing of the scheme, had waited for two years, putting
aside permanent employment so that we might be free
to join when required; for such is the extraordinary
attraction of Polar exploration to those who have once
engaged in it, that they will give up much, often all they
have, to pit themselves once more against the ice and
gamble with their lives in this greatest of all games of
chance. Yet if you were to ask what is the attraction
or where the fascination of it lies, probably not one could
give you an answer.
Sir Ernest Shackleton received the blow with out-
ward equanimity, which was not shaken when, with the
decision of the Canadian Government, the more timorous
of his supporters also withdrew. Always seen at his best
in adverse circumstances, he wasted no time in useless
w^^^
Photo: F. &^ A. Sivnine
SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON IN POLAR CLOTHING
I i
Photo : F. &f A. Swauie
MR. JOHN QUILLER ROWETT
Inception 5
complainings, but started even at this eleventh hour to
remodel his plans.
Nevertheless, the situation was a very difficult one.
He had committed himself to heavy expenditure, and
what weighed not least with him at this time was his
consideration for the men who had come to join the
enterprise. At this critical point Mr. John Quiller
Rowett came forward to bear an active part in the work,
and took upon his shoulders practically the whole
financial responsibility of the expedition. The import-
ance of this action cannot be too much emphasized, for
without it the carrying on of the work would have been
impossible.
Mr. Rowett had a wide outlook which enabled him to
take a keen interest in all scientific affairs. Previous to
this he had helped to found the Rowett Institute for
Agricultural Research at Aberdeen, and had prompted
and given practical support to researches in medicine,
chemistry and several other branches of science. His
many interests included geographical discovery, and he
saw clearly the important bearing which conditions in
the Polar regions have upon the temperate zones. He
saw also the possible economic value of the observations
and data which would be collected.
His name must therefore rank amongst the great
supporters of Polar exploration, such as the brothers
Enderby, Sir George Newnes and Mr. A. C. Harms-
worth (afterwards Lord Northcliffe).
Mr. Rowett's generous action is the more remarkable
in that he was fully aware in giving this support to the
expedition that there was no prospect of financial return.
What he did was done purely out of friendship to
Shackleton and in the interests of science. The new
6 Shackleton's Last Voyage
expedition was named the Shackleton-Rowett Expedi-
tion, and announcement of it was received by the public
with the greatest interest.
As it was now too late to catch the Arctic open season,
the northern expedition was cancelled, and Sir Ernest
reverted to one of his old schemes for scientific research
in the South, which again met with the approval of the
chief scientific bodies.
This change of plans threw an enormous burden of
work not only upon Sir Ernest, but also upon those of
us who formed his staff at this period, for we had little
time in which to complete the preparations. Dr. Macklin
was recalled from Canada, for under the new scheme
sledge-dogs were not required.
The programme did not aim at the attainment of
the Pole or include any prolonged land journey, but
made its main object the taking of observations and
the collection of scientific data in Antarctic and sub-
Antarctic areas.
The proposed route led to the following places : St.
Paul's Rocks on the Equator, South Trinidad Island,
Tristan da Cunha, Inaccessible Island, Nightingale and
Middle Islands, Diego Alvarez or Gough Island, and
thence to Cape Town.
Cape Town was to be the base for operations in the
ice, and a depot of stores for that part of the journey
would be formed there. The route led eastward from
there to Marion, Crozet and Heard Islands, and then
into the ice, where the track to be followed was, of
course, problematical, but would lead westwards, to
emerge again at South Georgia.
From South Georgia it led to Bouvet Island, and
back to Cape Town to refit. From Cape Town, the
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Inception 7
second time, the route included New Zealand, Rara-
tonga, Tuanaki (the " Lost Island "), Dougherty Island,
the Birdwood Bank, and home via the Atlantic.
The scientific work included the taking of meteoro-
logical observations, including air and sea temperatures,
kite and balloon work, magnetic observations, hydro-
graphical and oceanographical work, including an exten-
sive series of soundings, and the mapping and careful
charting of little-known islands. Search was to be made
for lands marked on the map as " doubtful." A collec-
tion of natural history specimens would be made, and
a geological survey and examination carried out in all
the places visited. Ice observations would be carried on
in the South, and an attempt made to reach and map
out new land in the Enderby Quadrant. Photography
was made a special feature, and a large and expensive
outfit of cameras, cinematograph machines and general
photographic appliances acquired.
The Admiralty and the Air Ministry co-operated and
materially assisted by lending much of the scientific
apparatus. Lieut.-Commander R. T. Gould, of the
Hydrographic Department, provided us with books and
reports of previous explorers concerning the little-known
parts of our route, and his information, gleaned from all
sources and collected together for our use, proved of
the greatest value.
It was decided to carry an aeroplane or seaplane to
assist in aerial observations and to be used as the " eyes "
of the expedition in the South. Flying machines had
never before been used in Polar exploration, and there
were obvious difficulties in the way of extreme cold and
lack of adequate accommodation, but after consultation
with the Air Ministry it was thought possible to overcome
8 Shackleton's Last Voyage
them. The machine ultimately selected was a *' Baby"
seaplane, designed and manufactured by the Avro
Company.
One of the first things done by Sir Ernest Shackleton
in preparing for the northern expedition had been the
purchase of a small wooden vessel of 125 tons, named
the Foca i. She was built in Norway, fitted with
auxiliary steam-engines of compound type and 125
horse-power. She was originally designed for sealing
in Arctic waters, the hull was strongly made, and the
timbers were supported by wooden beams with natural
bends of enormous strength. The bow was of solid oak
sheathed with steel. Her length was iii feet, beam
23 feet, and her sides were 2 feet thick. Her draught
was 9 feet forward and 14 feet aft. She was ketch-
rigged, and was reputed to be able to steam at seven
knots in still water and to do the same with sail only
in favourable winds.
At the happy suggestion of Lady Shackleton she
was re-named the Quest.
Sir Ernest received what he considered the greatest
honour of his life. The Quest as his yacht was elected
to the Royal Yacht Squadron. Perhaps a more ugly,
businesslike little " yacht " never flew the burgee, and
her appearance must have contrasted strangely with the
beautiful and shapely lines of her more aristocratic
sisters.
She was brought to Southampton in March, 192 1,
and placed in the shipyards for extensive alterations.
The work was greatly impeded by the strike of ship
workers, the general coal strike which occurred at that
time, and by difficulties generally with labour, which was
then passing through a very critical period.
Inception 9
It had been intended to take out the steam-engines
and substitute an internal combustion motor of the
Diesel type, but owing to the difficulties mentioned this
had to be abandoned, and on the advice of the surveying
engineer in charge of the work the old engines were
retained. The bunker space was readjusted at the
expense of the fore-hold, allowing a carrying capacity
of 120 tons of coal, and giving a steaming radius which,
with economy and use of sail, was estimated at from four
to five thousand miles.
This work was in process when it became necessary
to alter the plans of the expedition, and Sir Ernest
realized that the Quest, which had been considered
eminently suitable for the northern scheme, was not so
well adapted for the long cruise in southern waters. It
was impossible at this stage to change the ship, but
further alterations were made on deck and in the rigging
generally to adapt her for the new conditions.
Two yards were fitted, a topsail yard, 39 feet in
length, and a foreyard to carry a large squaresail, 44 feet
in length. The mizen-mast was lengthened to give a
greater clearance to the wireless aerials. The existing
bridge was enlarged, carried across the full breadth of the
ship, and completely enclosed with windows of Triplex
glass. The roof formed an upper bridge open to the air.
To improve the accommodation, which was inadequate, a
deck-house, 12 feet by 20 feet, was erected on the fore-
deck. It contained five rooms : four small cabins, and a
room for housing hydrographical and meteorological in-
struments. New canvas and running gear was fitted
throughout, and no expense spared to make her sound
and seaworthy. Mr. Rowett was absolutely insistent that
everything about the ship must be such as to ensure her
10 Shackleton's Last Voyage
safety and the safety of all on board in so far as it was
humanly possible. To everything in connexion with the
ship herself Sir Ernest, as an experienced seaman, gave
his personal attention. The work of the engine-room,
which, as he was not an engineer, he was not able to
supervise directly, was entrusted to a consulting
engineer.
The Quest, though strong and well equipped, was
small, and consequently accommodation generally was
limited and living quarters were somewhat cramped.
The forecastle was fitted as a small biological laboratory
and geological workroom. In it were a bench for the
naturalist and numerous cupboards for the storing of
specimens. Leading from it on one side was a small
cabin with two bunks for the naturalist and photographer
respectively, and on the other was the photographic dark
room.
The amount of gear placed aboard the ship was
large, and the greatest ingenuity was required to stow
it satisfactorily.
Two wireless transmitting and receiving sets, of
naval pattern, were installed under the immediate super-
vision of a wireless expert, kindly lent to us by the
Admiralty. The current for them was supplied by two
generators, one a steam dynamo producing 220 volts,
and a smaller paraffin internal-combustion motor produc-
ing no volts. The Quest being a wooden yessel, there
was great difficulty in providing suitable " earthing."
For this purpose two copper plates were attached to
either side of the ship below the water-line.
The more powerful of these sets was never very
satisfactory, and we ultimately abandoned its use. The
smaller proved entirely satisfactory for transmitting at
THE SPERRY GYROSCOPIC COMPASS
Fhoto: Topical.
THE ENCLOSED BRIDGE OF THE QUEST
Photo: Topical
Inception ii
distances up to 250 miles. The receiving apparatus was
chiefly of value in obtaining time signals, which are sent
out nightly from nearly all the large wireless stations,
and which we received at distances up to 3,000 miles.
By this means we were frequently able, whilst in the
South, to check our chronometers ; but atmospheric con-
ditions in those regions were very bad, and by producing
loud adventitious noises in the ear-pieces interfered so
much with the clarity of sounds that the obtaining of
accurate signals was generally impossible.
A Sperry gyroscopic compass was installed, the gyro-
scopic apparatus being placed in the deck-house, with
repeaters in the enclosed bridge and on the upper bridge.
The dials were luminous, so that they could be read at
night. This apparatus has the advantage that it is inde-
pendent of immediate outside influences. It is usually
supposed that at 65° north or south it ceases to be
effective, but we found that the directive force was still
sufficient at 69° south. It is interesting to note that this
compass was designed by a German scientist to enable
a submarine to reach the North Pole. It has been of the
greatest use to ships in a general way, but for the one
specific purpose for which it was designed it proved to
be useless owing to the loss of directive power at the
Poles. We found that bumping the ship through ice
caused derangement, and as the compass took several
hours to settle down again to normal, it proved ineffective
whilst we were navigating through the pack.
Fitted into the enclosed bridge and looking forward
were two Kent clear-view screens. They were elec-
trically driven. They proved, when running, to be
absolutely effective against rain, snow or spray.
The ship was fitted throughout with electric lighting,
12 Shackleton's Last Voyage
including the navigating lights. Whilst in the South,
however, the necessity for economy of fuel forbade the
use of electricity and we had recourse to oil lamps. As
we were then completely out of the track of shipping,
navigating lights were not used.
Two sounding machines were installed, one an eleC'
trically-driven Kelvin apparatus for depths up to 300
fathoms. To obtain accurate soundings whilst the ship
was under way, the sinker was fitted to carry sounding
tubes, and had also an arrangement for indicating the
nature of the bottom, whether rock, shingle or sand.
For deep-sea work we had a Lucas steam-driven
machine, which was affixed to a special platform on the
port bow and supplied by a flexible tube from the steam
pipe feeding the forward winch. This apparatus regis-
tered depths to four miles. Sounding with it was often
difficult on account of the swell and the liveliness
of the Quest, but the machine itself gave every satis-
faction. The wire used with the Lucas machine was
Brunton wire in coils of 6,000 fathoms, diameter .028,
weight 12.3 lbs. per 1,000 fathoms, with a breaking
strain of 200 lbs.
The meteorological equipment included :
Screens, containing wet and dry bulb thermometers,
placed in exposed positions on the upper bridge.
One large screen, containing hair hygrograph, stand-
ard thermometer and thermograph.
(The heavy seas which broke over the ship and flung
sprays over the upper bridge greatly interfered with the
efficient working of these instruments by encrusting them
with salt, and necessitated constant cleaning.)
Hydrometers, for determining the specific gravity of
sea-water, which gives a measure of the total salinity.
Photo : Topical
THE QVEST AT HAY'S WHARF,
Where she was fitted out for the trip
Inception 13
Sea-thermometers, for determining the surface tem-
peratures of the sea-water.
Marine pattern mercury barometer.
Aneroid barometers, checked daily from the mercury
barometer, in case the latter should be broken.
Barograph, to obtain continuous records of the air
pressure.
For upper-air work four cylinders of hydrogen and
several hundred pilot balloons were taken. (These
latter were sent up on many occasions from the ship,
but the Quest proved to be so lively that it was impos-
sible to keep them in the field of view of a telescope or
even of field-glasses.)
All the instruments were very kindly lent to us by
the Meteorological Section of the Air Ministry, and were
of standard make and pattern.
We carried a good set of sextants, theodolites, dip
circles and other accurate surveying instruments.
Several chronometers of different makes and patterns
were placed aboard. Two of them, specially rated for us
by Mr. Bagge, of the Waltham Watch Company, gave
excellent results and, in spite of the violent motion of the
ship and the difficulty of keeping a uniform temperature,
maintained a remarkably even rating.
The medical equipment was designed for compact-
ness and all-round usefulness.
Sledges, harness, warm clothing, footgear and an
amount of scientific equipment were forwarded to Cape
Town and warehoused to await the arrival of the Quest.
The greatest difficulty was experienced in the housing
of the seaplane, but, after dismantling wings and floats,
room was eventually found for it in the port alleyway,
which it almost filled.
14 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Sir Ernest Shackleton, as has already been said, in
choosing his personnel selected first of all a nucleus of
well-tried and experienced men who had served with him
before, appointing me as second in command of the
expedition. They included Worsley, Macklin, Hussey,
Mcllroy, Kerr, Green and McLeod. Applications for
the remaining posts came in thousands, and many women
wrote asking if a job could be found for them, offering to
mend, sew, nurse or cook.
Two other men with previous experience were
obtained : Wilkins, who served with the Canadian Arctic
Expedition under Stefansson, and Dell, who had served
with Captain Scott in the Discovery, and was thus known
to Sir Ernest Shackleton and myself. Lieut.-Com-
mander Jeffrey, an officer of the Royal Naval Reserve,
who had served with distinction during the war, was
appointed navigating officer for the ship. Major Carr,
who had gained much experience of flying as an officer
of the R.A.F., was appointed in charge of the seaplane.
A geologist was required, the selection falling upon
G. V. Douglas, a graduate of McGill University, whom
Sir Ernest had met in Canada.
Mr. Bee Mason was appointed photographer and
cinematographer.
Amongst the remainder there was need of a good
boy. Sir Ernest conceived the idea of throwing the
post open to a Boy Scout, and the suggestion was
taken up with the greatest enthusiasm by the Boy Scout
organization. The post was advertised in the Daily
Mail, and immediately a flood of applications poured in
from every part of the country. These were finally
filtered down to the ten most suitable, and the applicants
were instructed to assemble in London, the Daily Mail
Inception 15
making the necessary arrangements and defraying the
costs. These ten boys all had excellent records, and
Sir Ernest, in finally making his selection, was so
embarrassed in his choice that he selected two. They
were J. W. S. Marr, an Aberdeen boy, and Norman E.
Mooney, a native of the Orkneys.
There remained but three places to fill : C. Smith, an
officer of the R.M.S.P. Company, was appointed second
engineer; P.O. Telegraphist Watts, wireless operator;
and Eriksen, a Norwegian by birth, was taken on as
harpoon expert.
Sir Ernest, in order fully to carry out his programme,
was anxious to leave England not later than August
20th, but owing to a general strike of ships' joiners,
dilatory workmanship and other unavoidable causes,
the sailing was postponed well beyond that date.
At length all was ready; food stores and equip-
ment, which included not only the highly technical and
specialized Antarctic gear, but also such minute details
as pins, needles and pieces of tape, were placed on board,
and the ship was ready for sea.
The new expedition had been organized, equipped
and got ready for departure all within three months.
There are few who will realize what this means. No
other man than Sir Ernest would have attempted it, and
no other could have accomplished it successfully. It
was, as he often said himself, only through the staunch
support and active co-operation of Mr. Rowett, who
aided and encouraged him throughout this period, that
he was able to leave England that year. Postponement
at such an advanced stage was impossible, and would
have meant the total abandonment of the expedition.
We left London finally on September 17th, 192 1.
CHAPTER II
LONDON TO RIO DE JANEIRO
WE dipped our ensign in a last farewell to
London as we passed out from St. Katherine's
Dock, and turned our nose down-river for Graves-
end, a tiny vessel even amongst the small ship-
ping which comes thus far up the river. We were
accompanied on this part of our journey by Mr. Rowett,
who had taken a keen personal interest in everything
connected with the expedition. Enthusiastic crowds
cheered us at the start, and everybody we met wished us
" Good luck and safe return." The ensign was kept in
a continuous dance answering the bunting which dipped
from the staffs of every vessel we met. Ships of many
maritime nations were collected in this cosmopolitan
river, and these, too, joined in wishing success to our
enterprise.
At Gravesend Mr. Rowett left us, and Sir Ernest
returned with him to London with the object of
rejoining at Plymouth. A strong north-easterly wind
was blowing, and we lay for the night oif Gravesend. In
the small hours of the morning we were startled from
sleep by the watchman crying, " The anchor's drag-
ging ! " and turned out to find that we were bearing
down on a Thames hopper that was moored near by.
The Quest would not answer her helm, and before we
were able to bring her up she had fouled the stays of the
hopper with her bowsprit. Pyjama-clad figures leapt
i6
London to Rio de Janeiro 17
from their bunks, and in the dim light presented a
curious spectacle. Two or three of our men jumped on
to the deck of the hopper, and by loosening a bolt
succeeded in letting go one of her stays, when we swung
free.
Kerr rapidly raised a sufficient pressure of steam in
the boilers to get the engines going, and we soon
regained control.
We brought up with our anchor, which had been act-
ing as a dredge, the most amazing collection of stuff,
which gave an interesting sidelight on the composition
of the Thames floor.
No damage was received beyond a chafe to the bow-
sprit. We were anxious, however, to leave with every-
thing in good order, and so proceeded to Sheerness
Dockyard, where a new spar was put in for us by the
naval authorities with a promptness and dispatch that
contrasted strongly with the dilatory methods employed
previously in the shipyards.
We had an exceptionally fine trip down Channel
under the pilotage of Captain F. Bridgland, who was an
old friend of ours, having taken the ship from Southamp-
ton to London.
We reached Plymouth on the 23rd, and were joined
there by Sir Ernest Shackleton and Mr. Gerald Lysaght,
a keen yachtsman, who had been invited to accompany
us as far as Madeira. The Boss brought with him an
Alsatian wolf-hound puppy, a beautiful well-bred animal
with a long pedigree, which had been presented to him
by a friend as a mascot. " Query," as he was named,
quickly became a fast favourite with all on board. Mr.
Rowett also came from London to see us off, and we
had with him a last cheery dinner. He was very popular
0
i8 Shackleton's Last Voyage
with all of us, for in addition to his support of expedition
affairs he had taken a personal interest in every member
of the company.
On the 24th we steamed out into the Sound and
moored to a buoy, where the ship was swung and the
compasses adjusted by Commander Traill-Smith, R.N.,
who kindly undertook this important work. The
Admiralty tug used to swing the Quest accentuated her
smallness, for she was many times our size and towered
high above us.
This task completed, we put out to sea, pleased, as
Sir Ernest Shackleton said at the time, to be making
our final departure from a town that has ever been
associated with maritime enterprise.
The following extracts are from Sir Ernest Shackle-
ton's own diary :
Saturday y September 24/^, 192 1.
At last we are off. The last of the cheering
crowded boats have turned, the sirens of shore and
sea are still, and in the calm hazy gathering dusk on
a glassy sea we move on the long quest. Providence
is with us even now. At this time of equinoctial
gales not a catspaw of wind is apparent. I turn from
the glooming immensity of the sea and, looking at
the decks of the Quest, am roused from dreams of
what may be in the future to the needs of the moment,
for in no way are we shipshape or fitted to ignore
even the mildest storm. Deep in the water, decks
littered with stores, our very life-boats receptacles for
sliced bacon and green vegetables for sea-stock;
steel ropes and hempen brothers jostle each other;
mysterious gadgets connected with the wireless, on
London to Rio de Janeiro 19
which the Admiralty officials were working up to the
sailing hour, are scattered about. But our twenty-one
willing hands will soon snug her down.
A more personal and perplexing problem is my
cabin — or my temporary cabin, for Gerald Lysaght
has mine till we reach Madeira — for hundreds of
telegrams of farewell have to be dealt with. Kind
thoughts and kind actions, as witness the many
parcels, some of dainty food, some of continuous use,
which crowd up the bunk. Yet there is no time to
answer them now.
We worked late, lashing up and making fast the
most vital things on deck. Our wireless was going
all the time, receiving messages and sending out
answers. Towards midnight a swell from the west
made us roll, and the sea lopped in through our wash-
ports. About I A.M. the glare of the Aquitania s lights
became visible as she sped past a little to the south-
ward of us, going west, and I received farewell
messages from Sir James Charles and Spedding.^ I
wish it had been daylight.
At 2 A.M. I turned in. We are crowded. For in
addition to Mcllroy and Lysaght, I have old McLeod
as stoker.
Sunday^ September 2^th.
Fair easterly wind; our topsail and foresail set.
All day cleaning up with all hands. We saw the last
of England — the Scilly Isles and Bishop Rock, with
big seas breaking on them; and now we head out to
the west to avoid the Bay of Biscay. With our deep
draught we roll along like an old-time ship, our fore-
^ Captain and chief purser respectively of the Aquitania.
20 Shackleton's Last Voyage
sail bellying to the breeze. The Boy Scouts are sick
— frankly so, though Marr has been working in the
stokehold until he really had to give in. Various
messages came through. To-day it has been misty
and cloudy, little sun. All were tired to-night when
watches were set.
Monday, 26th. 47° 53' N., 9° 00' W.
A mixture of sunshine and mist, wind and calm.
Passed two steamers homeward bound, and one sail-
ing ship was overhauling us in the afternoon, but the
breeze fell light, and she dropped astern in the mist
that came up from the eastward. Truly it is good to
feel we are starting well, and all hands are happy,
though the ship is crowded.
Two hands have to help the cook, and the little
food hatchway is a blessing, for otherwise it is a long
way round. Green is in his element, though our decks
are awash amidship. He just dips up the water for
washing his vegetables.
With a view to economy he boiled the cabbage in
salt water. The result was not successful.
The Quest rolls, and we find her various points
and angles, but she grows larger to us each day as we
grow more used to her. I asked Green this morning
what was for breakfast. " Bacon and eggs," he
replied. " What sort of eggs.^ " " Scrambled eggs.
If I did not scramble them they would have scrambled
themselves " — a sidelight on the liveliness of the
Quest. Query, our wolf-hound puppy, is fast becom-
ing a regular ship's dog, but has a habit of getting
into my bunk after getting wet.
We are running the lights from the dynamo,
THE WIRELESS OPERATING ROOM
Photo: Sport Ss^ Genet al
THE WARD ROOM OF THE QUEST
Flioto: Topical
Photo: Sj>ort <5r» General
THE QUEST PASSING THE TOWER OF LONDON ON HER WAY TO THE SEA
Photo: Dr, MackUn
THE SGHERMULY PORTABLE ROCKET APPARATUS
London to Rio de Janeiro 21
and, when the wireless is working, sparks fly up and
down the backstays like fireflies. A calm night
is ours.
Tuesday, lyth — Wednesday, 2%th.
43° 52' N., 11° 51' W. 135 miles.
Another fine day. Not much to record. All hands
engaged in general work on the ship. In the after-
noon the mist arose and the wind dropped. At night
the wind headed us a bit, and we took in the topsail.
Marr was at the wheel in the first watch, and did well.
Mooney, at present, is useless. A gang of the boys
were employed turning the coal into the after-bunkers
— a black and dusty job; but they were quite happy.
We passed a peaceful night. This morning the wind
practically dropped. What little there was came out
ahead, so we took in all sail. The Quest does not
steam very fast, 5^ being our best so far. This rather
makes me think, and may lead to alterations in our
plans, for we must make our time right for entering
the ice at the end of December, and may possibly have
to curtail some of our island work or postpone it until
we come out of the South. This morning we are in
glorious sunshine — the sea sapphire-blue and a cloud-
less sky ; but, alas ! noon, in spite of our pushing,
gives us only 135 miles. We have allowed a current
of 7 miles N. 12° W.
Gerald Lysaght is one of our best workers, and
takes long spells at the wheel. Occasionally little
land-birds fly on board, and our kittens take an
interest in them, as yet unknowing their potential
value as food or game ( ?). How far away already we
seem from ordinary life !
22 Shackleton's Last Voyage
I stopped the wireless last night. It is of no
importance to us now in a little world of our own.
Wednesday, 2%th — Thursday, September 29//?, 192 1.
Lat, 42° 9' N. Long., 13° 10' W. Dist., 116'.
A strong wind, with high seas and S.S.W. swell;
strong squalls were our portion. The ship is more
than lively and makes but little way. She evidently
must be treated as a five-knot vessel dependent
mainly on fair winds, and all this is giving me much
food for thought, for I am tied to time for the ice. I
was relieved that she made fairly good weather of it,
but I can see that our decks must be absolutely clear
when we are in the Roaring Forties. Her foremast
also gives me anxiety. She is not well stayed, and I
think that the topsail yard is a bit too much. The
main thing is that I may have to curtail our island
programme in order to get to the Cape in time.
Everyone is cheerful, which is a blessing, all singing
and enjoying themselves, though pretty well wet;
several are a bit sick. The only one who has not
bucked up is the Scout Mooney. He seems helpless,
but I will give him every chance. I can see also that
we must be cut down in crew to the absolutely efficient
and only needful for the southern voyage.
Douglas is now stoking and doing well. It will,
of course, take time to square things up and for every-
one to find themselves ; she is so small. It is only by
constant thought and care that the leader can lead.
There is a delightful sense of freedom from responsi-
bility in all others; and it should be so. These are
just random thoughts, but borne in on one as all
being so different from the long strain of preparation.
London to Rio de Janeiro 23
It is a blessing that this time I have not the financial
worry or strain to add to the care of the active expe-
dition. Lysaght is doing very well, and so is the
Scout Marr.
Sir Ernest Shackleton's diary ends at this point, and
there are no other entries till January ist, 1922.
We now began to settle down to our new conditions
of life.
In the deck-house were five small cabins. The Boss
and I had the two after ones, but at this time Mr.
Lysaght, or the " General " as he was called by all of
us (like most nicknames, for no particular reason), occu-
pied one of them, whilst the Boss and I shared the other.
Worsley and Jeffrey had a cabin running the full
breadth of the house and the roomiest in the ship, but
it had also to act as chart-room. Macklin and Hussey
occupied a tiny room of six feet cubed on the starboard
side, which contained the medicine cupboard. Here, in
spite of restricted space, they dwelt in perfect harmony,
due, as they were wont to say, " to both of us being non-
smokers." They were known collectively as " Alphonse
and D'Aubrey," but how the names originated it is
impossible to say, for though the versatile Londoner
might at times have passed as a Frenchman, the same
could not be said for the more phlegmatic Scot.
The corresponding room on the port side housed the
meteorological instruments and the gyroscopic compass.
Wilkins and Bee Mason had bunks in the converted
forecastle, which contained the photographic dark room,
a work bench for the naturalist, and numerous cupboards
for the storing of specimens. Wilkins, an old cam-
paigner, had used much foresight and ingenuity in
24 Shackleton^s Last Voyage
fitting it up, and had utilized the limited space to the
utmost advantage. Their cabin was indeed a dim recess
and at first proved very stuffy, but before we were many
days out Wilkins had designed and fitted an air-shoot,
which acted very well and enormously improved the
ventilation. Green, the cook, had a cabin beside his
galley, which was always warm from the heat of the
engine-room — too much so to be comfortable in temper-
ate climes, but he looked forward to the advantage he
would derive when we entered the cold regions. All the
others lived aft and occupied bunks which were situated
round the mess-room and opened directly into it, un-
screened except by small green curtains, which could be
drawn across when the bunks were unoccupied. It was
by no means a pleasant or convenient arrangement, but,
with the small size of the ship and general lack of space,
the only one possible under the circumstances. The
mess-room itself was small, boasting the simplest of
furniture : two plain deal tables, four forms, a cupboard
for crockery, and a small sideboard. At the foot of the
companion-way was a rack of ten long Service rifles.
Two of the forms were made like boxes with lids, to act
as lockers.
The seating accommodation just admitted all hands
to sit together, not counting the cook and the cook's
mate and four men who were always on watch. They
sat down to a second sitting. The food was of good
quality, plain, and simply cooked. Three meals a day
were served : breakfast, lunch, and supper. The Boss
presided, and under his cheery example the new hands
soon learned to make light of the strange and rather
uncomfortable conditions.
Every day for breakfast we had Quaker oats, with
London to Rio de Janeiro 25
brown sugar or syrup (salt for the Scotsmen) and milk,
followed by bacon, with eggs (as long as they lasted),
afterwards sausage or some equivalent, bread or ship's
biscuit, marmalade, and tea or coffee.
For lunch we usually had a hot soup, followed by
cold meat, corned beef, tongue or tinned fish, and bread
or biscuit, cheese, jam and tea.
Supper consisted of a hot meat dish, with vegetables,
followed by some sort of pudding, bread or biscuit, and
tea.
The galley was small, and contained a diminutive
range and a number of shelves fitted with battens to
prevent things flying off with the roll of the ship. The
oven accommodation was small, and admitted of the
cooking of one thing only at a time. Here Green
reigned over his pots and pans, which, owing to the
motion of the ship, proved more often than not to be
elusive and refractory.
At meal-times the dishes were passed through a large
window port into the messroom by the cook's mate, and
received by the " Peggy " for the day, who served the
food and waited at table. Duty as " Peggy " was per-
formed by each man in turn (with the exception of the
watch-keeping officers), who also washed the dishes,
cleaned the tables, and generally tidied up after each
meal. Sir Ernest Shackleton had made it plain to all
hands that no work was to be considered too humble for
any member of the expedition.
Table-cloths were never used, but the tables were
well scrubbed daily, so that they soon took on a fine
whiteness. Fiddles were a permanent fitting except
when we were in port, for the Quest never permitted us
to do without them at sea, whilst in the worst weather
26 Shackleton's Last Voyage
even they proved useless to prevent table crockery from
being thrown about.
In addition to Query there were on the ship two
other pets in the form of small black kittens, one pre-
sented to us as a mascot by the Daily Mail, the other, I
believe, the gift of a girl to one of the crew. They
suffered a little at first from sea-sickness, but soon
developed the most voracious appetites, and showed the
greatest persistence in coming about the table for food.
They clambered up one's legs with long sharp claws,
" miaowed," and at every opportunity put their noses
into jugs and plates. No amount of rebuffs had any
effect upon them, and they had a curious preference for
food on the table to that which was placed for them in
their own dishes. Two more importunate kittens I have
never seen. It is to be feared that one or two of the
party slyly encouraged them, for we could never cure
them of their bad habits.
The companion steps leading from the scuttle to the
messroom were very steep, and at this time Query had
not learned the art of going up and down, though he
acquired it later. It used to be a common sight to see
his handsome head framed in the opening of the window
port through which Green passed the food, gazing wist-
fully at the dainty morsels which were being transferred
to other mouths.
These first days with the Boss were very cheery
ones, and I like to look back on them. There was little
refinement on the ship and more than ordinary dis-
comfort, yet each meal-time was a happy gathering of
cheery souls, and conversation crackled with jokes, in
the perpetration of which Hussey was by no means the
least guilty. The strain of preparation had been a heavy
London to Rio de Janeiro 27
one, and Sir Ernest seemed to be enjoying the quiet,
the freedom and the mental peace of our small self-
contained little world. I think he liked to find himself
surrounded by his own men, and he was always at his
best when he had a definite objective to go for.
There is something about life at sea, and the com-
panionship of men who have lived untrammelled lives
free from the restraints of convention, that I find hard
to describe. I think it must be that it is more primitive.
Certainly, one drops into it with a contentment that
contrasts strongly with the feeling of effort with which
one braces oneself to meet the more conventional
circumstances of the return to civilized life. It is, I
suppose, a matter of heredity and transmitted instinct
which makes falling back to the primitive more easy
than progress, meaning by " progress " the advance of
artificiality and the tremendous speeding up of modern
existence. Some such instinct must be present, for what
else is there to tempt one from a cosy fireside and the
morning paper?
We kept three watches, the watch-keeping officers
being Worsley, Jeffrey and myself. The Boss kept no
particular watch, but was always at hand to give instruc-
tions and take charge on special occasions. In my
watch were Mcllroy, Macklin and Hussey ; in Worsley's,
Wilkins, Douglas and Watts; in Jeffrey's, Carr, Eriksen
and Bee Mason. Dell and McLeod acted as stokers.
The two Scouts were at first employed in a generally
useful capacity, helping the cook and lending a hand
wherever required. In addition to his deck duties, each
man had his own particular job to attend to. Before
we had been out many days it became clear to all that
in this trip we were to have no picnic, and that in life
28 Shackleton's Last Voyage
on the Quest we would have to adapt ourselves to all
sorts of discomforts and inconveniences. However, we
were committed to our enterprise, our work lay before
us, and we settled down cheerfully to make the best of
things.
A few extracts from the official diary will give an
indication of conditions about this time.
Tuesday, September 2jth,
The wind came round to S.E. and freshened up
during the day. The Quest is behaving badly in the
short head seas. We have had to take in sail and are
proceeding under steam, making poor progress. Bee
Mason and Mooney are rather off colour.
September 28/^.
The wind has increased, with heavier seas.
During the day the engines were stopped for adjust-
ment. Kerr says the crank shaft is out of alignment,
and expects further trouble. This happening so early
in the voyage does not promise well for the trip, for,
as the Boss says, we are already late and cannot afford
much time in port.
September 2,0th.
A moderate gale blowing from the S.W. We
made no headway into it, and the Boss decided to
heave to with the engines at slow speed. This has
given us an idea of the Quest's behaviour in bad
weather. The Boss is pleased with her sea-going
qualities, for in spite of fairly heavy seas she has
remained dry, taking aboard very little water.' She
^ The papers at the time made much of this gale. It was, however, little
more than a strong blow and a zephyr compared with what we were to
experience before our return to these same latitudes on our homeward run.
By courtesy of Mr. John Lister
THE QUEST IN THE NORTH-EAST TRADES
; 1')-. iUackiin
THE TOW NET IN LSE
London to Rio de Janeiro 29
has a lively and very unpleasant motion, which has
induced qualms of sea-sickness in many of the " land
lubbers." Bee Mason and young Mooney are hors
de combat. They are both plucky. The Scout makes
no complaint, but it is obvious that life to him just
now is a terrible misery. He has tried hard to carry
on his work. We wish we could do something for
him, but there is little comfort on the ship.
October 2nd.
Head winds have continued to blow, against which
we have made little headway. The engines have
developed a nasty knock which is appreciable to all
on the ship. Kerr insists that an overhaul is neces-
sary, and Sir Ernest has decided to make for Lisbon.
We accordingly headed up for " The Burlings," and
picked up the light about 6 p.m.
On October 3rd Kerr had to reduce the pressure
of steam in the cylinders, as we were now proceeding
slowly along the coast of Portugal in the direction of
Cape Roca. The coast-line is very picturesque, dotted
all along with old castles and pretty little windmills.
We plugged slowly on, passed by many steamers which
signalled us "A pleasant voyage," to which we were kept
busy answering " Thank you." One of the beautiful
modern P. & O. liners, coming rapidly up from behind,
altered course to pass close to us, and we could not help
envying her speed and comfort as, making nothing of
the short steep seas in which we were rolling and pitch-
ing in the liveliest manner, she rapidly drew out of sight
ahead.
Just before nightfall we reached Cascaes, at the
mouth of the Tagus, where the pilot came aboard, but
30 Shackleton's Last Voyage
decided not to proceed till daybreak. We lay at anchor
for some hours, and I rarely remember a more uncom-
fortable period than we spent here, jerking at the cable
with a short steep roll that made one positively giddy.
It was more than the Portuguese pilot could stand, for
he moved us farther up the river into shelter, enabling
us to get the first comfortable sleep since leaving the
Scilly Islands.
We were taken by tug up the fast-running Tagus to
Lisbon in the early morning, and later the Quest went
into dock.
The work was entrusted to Messrs. Rawes & Co.,
and put in hand without delay. The source of all the
trouble in the engine-room proved to be the crank shaft,
which was out of alignment, and thus caused the bear-
ings to run hot. The high-pressure connecting rod was
found to be badly bent. The rigging also was altered
and reset up.
We did not get away from Lisbon until Tuesday,
October nth.
Those whose work did not confine them to the ship
made the most of their time ashore, the first move being
to a hotel for the luxury of a hot bath and a well-cooked
dinner. We were warmly entertained by the British
residents, who during the whole of our stay showed us
the greatest kindness and hospitality. Mooney was
carried off by the Boy Scouts of Lisbon, who showed him
the sights of the place. Marr, although an enthusiastic
supporter of the Boy Scout movement, did not care to
spend his whole time as a " kilted spectacle for curious
Latins," and, doffing his uniform, accompanied the
others in their movements. Amongst other things, we
paid a visit en masse to a bull-fight, which we found to
London to Rio de Janeiro 31
be a much more humane undertaking than those carried
out under the old Spanish system. The bull is not
killed and, though goaded by the darts of the picadors
to a fury, does not seem to be subjected to great ill-treat-
ment. The horses, instead of being old screws meant to
be gored, are beautiful animals, which the matadors take
the greatest care to protect.
We had many visitors on board the ship, including
the British and American Ministers, who were shown
round by Sir Ernest. All, as in London, expressed their
amazement at the size of the Quest, imagining her to be
far too small for the undertaking.
We set out on October nth for Madeira, having
expended seven days of precious time.
On leaving the Tagus we again encountered strong
head winds, which lasted four days, during which the
Quest's movements were such as to upset the strongest
stomachs. Bee Mason and Mooney were once more
hors de combat, and few except the hardened seamen
amongst us escaped feeling ill, though they managed to
carry on their work.
I think there must be very few people in these days
of luxurious floating palaces that ever really have to
endure the agonies of sea-sickness. If they do feel ill
they can retire to their bunks, where attentive stewards
minister to their wants. Few, however, have been in
such a condition that they dared not take to their bunks,
but have spent days and nights on deck, sleepless,
sodden and cold, in a vigil of misery unbroken save to
turn to when " eight bells " announces the watch, and
struggle through the work until the striking of the bells
again announces relief, unable to taste or bear the
thought of food, and with a stomach persistently and
32 Shackleton's Last Voyage
painfully rebellious in spite of an aching void. Such is
the fate of those who go to sea in small vessels, without
stewards and without comforts, and where there is work
to be done. I have nothing but admiration for the way
some of the sea-sick men were sticking to their jobs.
Among them was Marr, the Boy Scout, who showed
the greatest hardihood and pluck.
Winds continued to blow from ahead till, on
October 15th, the weather changed and we had a beauti-
ful clear day, with little wind or sea and bright sunshine.
Mooney and Bee Mason continued to suffer from sea-
sickness all the way, the latter becoming quite ill with
a high temperature. As the conditions we had met were
likely to prove mild as compared with those we would
encounter in the stormy southern seas, Sir Ernest
Shackleton decided to send both of them home from
Madeira. Let it be said here that it is probable that,
if they had had their own way, each of them would
have elected to continue with us, and this decision
to send them back carries with it absolutely no stigma,
for they showed extraordinary pluck and bore their trials
uncomplainingly. To Mooney especially, a young boy
gently nurtured, who had never before left his Orkney
home, this portion of the trip must have meant untold
misery. We greatly regretted losing both these com-
panions.
On leaving Lisbon the Boss had put the other Scout,
Marr, to work in the bunkers, where he went through a
gruelling test. He came out of the trial very well, show-
ing an amount of hardihood and endurance that was
remarkable. He suffered from sea-sickness, but never
failed to carry out his allotted task, and thoroughly
earned his right to continue as a permanent member
London to Rio de Janeiro 33
of the expedition. I find in his diary the following
entry :
I volunteered to go down the stokehold, and my
first duty was that of trimming coal. It is a delightful
occupation. It consists of going down to the bunkers
and shovelling coal to within easy reach of the fire-
men. The bunkers are pitch black, and the air —
well, there is no air, but coal dust. This gets into one's
ears, eyes, nose, mouth and lungs; one breathes coal
dust. After I had trimmed sufficient coal, I com-
menced stoking. I got on fairly well for a first
attempt, but did not like the heat.
Another entry which this boy made during the bad
weather shows what he must have gone through, though
nothing which he said at the time would have led one
to suspect it :
Indeed, I was feeling more dead than alive . . .
what with the rolling of the ship and the unsteady
nature of my limbs — I was sea-sick, and I was much
afraid I should fall into the fire or down the bilges.
When I came off (my watch) I immediately made for
my bunk, where I remained, without partaking of my
breakfast or dinner, until 12.0 noon, when I got up
again for my next watch. ...
Before leaving England the Boss had ordered a
brass plate to be made, on which was inscribed
two verses of Kipling's immortal "If?" and had it
placed in front of the bridge. Hussey, after a heavy
day's coaling in bad weather, was inspired to a version
specially applicable to the Quest, which reads as
follows":
34 Shackleton's Last Voyage
If you can stand the Quest and all her antics,
If you can go without a drink for weeks,
If you can smile a smile and say, " How topping ! "
When someone splashes paint across your "breeks";
If you can work like Wild and then, like " Wuzzles,"
Spend a convivial night with some "old bean,"
And then come down and meet the Boss at breakfast
And never breathe a word of where you've been;
If you can keep your feet when all about you
Are turning somersaults upon the deck,
And then go up aloft when no one told you.
And not fall down and break your blooming neck ;
If you can fill the port and starboard bunkers
With fourteen tons of coal and call it fun.
Yours is the ship and everything that's on it,
Coz you're a marvel, not a man, old son. . . .
We arrived at Madeira on the i6th. Kerr had again
a number of adjustments to make in the engine-room,
and, with Smith, toiled hard all the time we were in
harbour.
Madeira has been a favourite stopping place for all
expeditions to the Antarctic. Here on October 4th,
1822, Weddell was received and assisted by Mr. John
Blandy, whose firm has rendered help to many sub-
sequent expeditions. On this occasion we were wel-
comed by the present Mr. and Mrs. Blandy and visited
their beautiful estate on the hill.
We left after a two days' stay. " The General " was
due to return from here, but he had made himself so
universally popular that Sir Ernest persuaded him to
go on as far as the Cape Verde Islands. Neither our
discomforts nor the vagaries of the Quest had upset him
in the slightest, and he had proved himself a useful
member of the crew, taking a trick at the wheel and
London to Rio de Janeiro 35
carrying on the work on deck generally. We now
entered fine weather, and, running comfortably before
the north-easterly trade winds, reached St. Vincent
on October 28th. The engines had continued to give
trouble, and Kerr reported that extensive repairs and
readjustments would be necessary before continuing
farther. They were carried out quickly and effectively
by Messrs. Wilson, Sons & Co., who acted as our agents,
and most generously supplied us on leaving with one
hundred tons of coal free of all charge.
We said good-bye to " General " Lysaght, whom we
saw depart with genuine regret. We had a farewell
dinner, at which was produced all the best the
Quest could offer, and when the Boss proposed " The
General ! " we drank his health and wished him luck.
Although he was returning to home and comforts, he
would, I believe, had it been possible, have accompanied
us farther on our way. At the conclusion he was
presented with an illuminated card, the combined work
of all the artists aboard, but chiefly, I think, of Wilkins,
which bore the following poem composed by the Boss :
To Gerald Lysaght, A.B.
After these happy days, spent in the oceanways,
Homeward you turn !
Ere our last rope slipped the quay and we made for the open sea
You became one of us.
You have seen the force oi the gale fierce as a thresher's flail
Beat the sea white;
You have watched our reeling spars sweep past the steady stars
In the storm-wracked night.
You saw great liners turn ; high bows that seemed to churn
The swell we wallowed in ;
They veered from their ordered ways, from the need of their time
kept days,
To speed us on.
36 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Did envy possess your soul ; that they were sure of their goal
Never a damn cared you,
For you are one with the sea — in its joy and misery
You follow its lure.
In the peace of Chapel Cleeve, surely you must believe,
Though far off from us.
That wherever the Quest may go ; what winds blow high or low —
Zephyrs or icy gale :
Safe in our hearts you stand ; one with our little band.
A seaman, Gerald, are you ! — E. H. S.
On the 28th we set out, making course for St. Paul's
Rocks. We enjoyed excellent weather, with smooth seas
on which the sun sparkled in a myriad of variegated
points. We felt the heat considerably, which is natural,
considering the confined space and general lack of
artificial means of keeping cool, such as effective fans,
refrigerators and iced water. Most of us slept on deck,
under the stars which twinkled above us, large and
luminous, in the tropic nights.
The Boss took Marr out of the stokehold about this
time and placed him to assist Green as cook's mate, a
not very romantic job, but one which he carried out with
his usual thoroughness. He had by now thoroughly
found his feet, and took a deep interest in the sea life
of the tropics : flying fish fleeing in shoals before the
graceful bonito, which, leaping in the air to descend
with scarcely a splash, followed in relentless pursuit;
dolphins, albacore and the sinister fins of occasional
sharks.
On November 4th a large school of porpoises came
about the ship and played around our bows. Eriksen
seized the opportunity to harpoon one of them, which
we hauled aboard. Wilkins found in its stomach a
number of cuttle-fish beaks. The meat we sent to the
London to Rio de Janeiro 37
larder. The porpoise is not a fish, but a mammal, warm
blooded and air breathing. It provides an excellent red
meat, against which British sailors have for many years
felt a strong prejudice, but which is eaten with relish by
Scandinavians. We found it a pleasant change from
tinned food.
One day we encountered a magnificent five-masted
barque becalmed in the doldrums, all sail set and flap-
ping gently with the slight roll. She was flying the
French ensign, and on closer approach proved to be the
La France, of Rouen. She presented such a beautiful
sight,' with her tall masts and lofty spars reflected in the
smooth sea, that we altered course to pass close to her
and enable Wilkins to get some photographs. Sir
Ernest spoke her captain, who replied in excellent
English, asking where we had left the trade winds,
voicing what is the uppermost thought in the mind of
every master of a sailing ship, the probability and direc-
tion of winds, on which depends their motive power.
We were amused to notice that though the Boss sent
his voice unaided across the water with the greatest ease,
the Frenchman required a megaphone to make audible
his replies.
These beautiful vessels are fast being driven off the
ocean in the competition with modern steamships, yet
it is with a feeling of genuine regret that one sees them
go, for with them departs much of the romance of the
sea. The apprentice of to-day takes his training in
steamers, and the modern seaman is beginning to regard
sail as a " relic of barbarism." ^ In the days when I first
went to sea one might count masts and yards by the
* On our return to England we learned that this beautiful ship had become
a total wreck on the Great Barrier Reef of Australia.
* An expression of Jeffrey's.
38 Shackleton's Last Voyage
hundred in harbours such as Falmouth or Queenstown,
but now they are to be found only in ones and twos.
They were fine ships, the old clipper ships, and bred a
fine type of seaman, yet " the old order changeth," and
in spite of an attempt to bring them into general use
again, it is to be feared that they will gradually die out
altogether.
Early on the morning of November 8th we sighted
St. Paul's Rocks, standing solitary and alone in the
midst of a wide tropic sea. They were the first objec-
tive, and Sir Ernest arranged for a party to land there.
We lay to under their lee and dropped a boat. Imme-
diately a countless shoal of sharks came about us, their
fins showing above water in dozens on every side. A
considerable swell was running, making the approach
difficult, but we effected a landing in a little horseshoe-
shaped basin lying in the midst of the rocks. Wilkins,
assisted by Marr, took ashore camera and cinematograph
apparatus, and was able to get some excellent photos
of birds,
Douglas, assisted by Dell, carried out an accurate
survey and made a geological examination of the rocks.
Hussey and Carr carried out meteorological work, taking
advantage of a fixed base to send up a number of
balloons for measuring the upper air currents. I had
charge of the boat, with Macklin, Jeffrey and Eriksen
as crew.
We noticed that the cove in which we had made the
landing was simply alive with marine life of every kind,
and so returned to the ship for fishing tackle. For bait
we used crabs, which swarm in large numbers all over
the rocks. There were two sorts, a large red variety and
a smaller one dark green in colour. They were evil-
London to Rio de Janeiro 39
looking things, and seemed always to be watching us
intently, moving stealthily sideways, now in this direc-
tion, now in that. At the least sign of approach they
darted with amazing rapidity into crevices in the rocks.
Occasionally we saw them gather their legs under them
and give the most extraordinary leaps of from two to
three feet. Their jaws worked continually and water
sizzled and bubbled at their mouths. Some of them had
found flying fish which had flown ashore or been brought
by the birds. It was a horrible sight — they tore the flesh
into fragments with their powerful claws and crammed
it into their mouths. The ownership was often disputed,
the bigger crab always winning. Occasionally a small
crab, hoping for some of the crumbs which might fall
from the rich man's table, would creep cautiously up
behind. The bigger crab, however, permitted no depre-
dations, but, waiting till the smaller one reached within
a certain limit, would kick out suddenly with an unoccu-
pied leg, causing the smaller one to hop hastily out of
reach.
We spiked what we required with a boat-hook, and
they made excellent bait, for it was necessary only to
lower the hook to get an immediate bite. The landing
of the catch, however, proved not so easy. The little
cove swarmed with sharks, which were attracted by the
boat, and came about us in scores. Looking down
through the clear water, we could see fish in plenty
flitting hither and thither with leisurely whisks of their
tails, obviously quite at ease and not at all perturbed by
the proximity of the marauders. The moment, however,
we hooked one and started to pull it up, the sharks
turned like a streak and went for it with such voracity
that we had the greatest difficulty in getting it to the
40 Shackleton's Last Voyage
surface. What was worse, they frequently bit through
the lines and took the hook also. Finally, we were com-
pelled to reinforce the lines with wire. On one occasion
I succeeded in getting a fish clear of the water, and,
thinking that for once I had eluded the sharks, was in
the act of swinging it aboard when there was a flash
of something white, an ugly snout broke water, and I
was left gazing stupidly at half a head which still
dangled from my line. The shark had got the rest.
Indeed, it was not safe to put a hand over the gunwale,
for immediately a head rose towards it.
We had with us in the boat a harpoon and trident,
and getting tired of losing our fish, waged war upon the
sharks. We harpooned several, which we killed and
threw back to their brethren, who voraciously set upon
them and tore them to bits. While they were thus dis-
tracted we secured a number of fish. There is something
sinister and evil-looking about sharks. Some of them
grow to large size, attaining a length of thirteen or four-
teen feet ; there are records of larger ones than that, the
largest I know of being twenty-five feet, but this is
exceptional. Their mouths, which are composed of a
curved slit, are situated on the under surface of the head
some distance from the snout. Their teeth, which are
sharp and set backwards, are not true teeth, but modified
scales. The eyes are small and poorly developed, but
they have a phenomenal sense of smell which attracts
them from long distances to potential sources of food.
Macklin and Hussey dissected the brain of one of them,
which showed that the olfactory bulbs — the portion
devoted to the sense of smell — is larger than all the rest
of the brain.
These rapacious beasts are the most dreaded and
London to Rio de Janeiro 41
most generally hated of all animals in the seas, and have
accounted for many sailors who have fallen overboard.
They are very suspicious of bait on a line, but have often
been caught and hauled on board. It was at one time
the custom on sailing ships to perpetrate in revenge all
sorts of mutilating atrocities upon them, such as gouging
out the eyes and filling the sockets with gunpowder,
removing the heart and entrails, afterwards throwing the
animal back into the sea to be torn to pieces by others
of the species.
In addition to the sharks, we caught with the trident
a number of large, round, black-coloured fish of a kind
commonly regarded as poisonous. Their flesh looked so
firm and white and excellent that we decided to try them.
When cooked, they proved to be of good flavour, and
no one suffered from the experiment of eating them.
We caught a number of smaller " black fish," but
I took them for specimens only, for I have seen them
in other waters and know them as garbage eaters of the
worst kind, though it is possible that those we caught
here, living far from the filth and sewage of towns, might
prove edible enough. The kind, however, of which we
obtained the greatest number were yellow and blue.
Merely to sit in the boat and gaze down through
these pellucid waters was a pleasure, for the bottom
showed clearly, covered with countless seaweeds, whilst
over it passed fish of all sizes and of the brightest and
most varied colourings in endless panorama.
We enjoyed the day immensely, providing as it did
a pleasant change from the routine of ship's life.
The recall flag was hoisted by the Boss at 4 p.m.,
when we gathered up our lines and took off the shore
parties.
42 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Before finally leaving the rocks we encircled them
slowly to enable Worsley to get a series of soundings.
There is very little shoaling in the approach to these
rocks, which rise sheer and straight from the sea bottom.
The soundings of the depth of water round about
them, which were verified and amplified by those taken
by Worsley on this occasion, show that the " hundred
fathom line " is nowhere distant more than four cables
from the rocks, and in places is within nine hundred feet.
As we set off on our course we were surrounded by a
number of bonito, which followed us in graceful leaps
and dives. They can be caught sometimes from the jib-
boom by dangling a strong line, baited with a piece of
white rag, in the foam of the bow wave. When pulled
out of the water they are difficult to hold on account of
a strong vibration which is set up by rapid movement of
the tail. It is customary to have a sack handy into which
the fish is dropped, when it can be safely passed on
board.
For a while after leaving St. Vincent the engines had
run smoothly, but now they started to give more trouble,
requiring the most careful nursing by Kerr and his staff.
The rigging also was not proving satisfactory, and the
scarfed topmast yielded in a most alarming manner to
the strain of the gaff. Sir Ernest Shackleton began to
worry tremendously about her condition, and confided to
me that he had trusted too much to others in the prepara-
tion of the engine-room. The work had been placed in
the hands of a consulting engineer in whom he had
reason to feel that he could place the most implicit
trust.
Sir Ernest decided, however, before continuing the
southern part of the expedition, to put into harbour at
London to Rio de Janeiro 43
Rio de Janeiro and make a complete overhaul of every
part of the ship under his own direct supervision, though
he was possessed of no special engineering knowledge.
We had intended calling first at South Trinidad Island,
but, conditions becoming worse, we made direct for Rio.
Before entering harbour we repainted the ship,
changing the white deck-house and superstructure and
the yellow funnel to a uniform naval grey. This was
done at the suggestion of Jeffrey, who also entered
energetically into the carrying of it out, and there is no
doubt that the grey was a much more serviceable colour.
The ports, skirtings and boats were painted black, which
relieved the monotony of the grey and gave the whole a
pleasing effect.
On the night of November 21st we sighted the lights
of Rio de Janeiro stretching in a row along the sea shore.
It was a lovely still night, and the Boss was in good
spirits. We gathered outside the surgeon's cabin whilst
Hussey strummed tunes on his banjo. The Boss loved
these little musical gatherings, and though he himself
was unable to produce a tune of any sort, he liked
listening to music.
The next day dawned with a wonderful sunrise
which lit up the mountains round the harbour, tinting
them with crimson, rose and pink. A slight mist on the
surface of the water was turned into a wonderful red
haze, through which appeared the masts and spars of
sailing ships at anchor. The harbour is magnificent,
dividing with Sydney the claim to be the finest in the
world.
We steamed slowly in, past the Sugar Loaf
Mountain which guards the entrance to the harbour,
and came to anchor opposite the town.
CHAPTER III
RIO TO SOUTH GEORGIA
SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON lost no time in
going ashore to make arrangements for the
necessary work, and set it going with the least
possible delay. Messrs. Wilson, Sons & Co. were
appointed agents, and their engineer, Mr. Howard,
came aboard the same day. In addition, a consulting
engineer was employed to make a report on the con-
dition of the engines. The crank-shaft was badly out
of alignment, and from this had resulted all the other
disabilities which had so continuously cropped up
during the voyage. It was considered also that the
heavy four-bladed propeller was too great a strain for
the small engines, and that a lighter two-bladed pro-
peller, giving of a greater number of revolutions, would
prove more satisfactory. The scarfed topmast, which
had been badly strained, required renewing, for which
purpose it would be necessary to take out the foremast.
It was decided also, whilst this work was in process,
to recaulk and tar the hull.
On the second day we moved across the harbour to
Wilson's Island, where the ship was emptied of all stores
and equipment, which were placed for the time being in
a large covered lighter. A large floating crane, of which
we were allowed the use by courtesy of the Brazilian
Government, was placed alongside, and tlie foremast
taken out and placed in the sheds. This completed, the
44
Rio to South Georgia 45
ship was placed on the slips and the work proceeded
rapidly, the firm concentrating their resources to get us
ready for sea in the shortest possible time. Mr. Howard
worked unceasingly on our behalf, and we received at
all times the greatest help from all responsible members
of the firm.
Sir Ernest Shackleton decided during the early part
of the voyage that the living accommodation, which had
been adequate for his original scheme, was insufficient
for a programme which entailed prolonged periods
aboard ship, and planned an addition to the deck-house.
The existing structure was carried forward to within a
few feet of the foremast and the new portion made two
feet broader on each side. This meant enclosing the
main hatch, but the difficulty was overcome by building
another hatch in the roof of the deck-house and cutting
the coamings of the original hatch flush with the deck.
Although an uncomfortable arrangement in many ways,
it had the advantage that Macklin could open it up at
any time he wished to go below independent of weather
conditions, for under the old arrangement the getting
up of stores was limited to fine weather, there being no
other access to the hold than through the hatch, render-
ing the work in other conditions very dangerous.
Whilst this work was in progress it was impossible to
live aboard, and a number of the British residents offered
to billet the different members of the expedition in their
houses. To Mr. and Mrs. Causer, Mr. and Mrs. Lloyd,
the Secretary of the British Club, and the members of
the Leopoldina Chacara I must take this opportunity of
offering my most sincere thanks for their kindness and
hospitality. Thanks are due, not only to these " god-
parents " (as we called them), but to others too numerous
46 Shackleton's Last Voyage
to mention, from the British Minister downwards, from
all of whom we received the greatest hospitality and who
took a keen interest in our project.
In spite of all the energy employed in getting the
Quest ready for sea, it became apparent that it would
take fully four weeks to complete the work. The delays
caused through repairs since leaving England had now
amounted to six weeks. It would be quite impossible to
carry out the programme and reach Cape Town in time
to enter the ice this season. It was this factor which
caused Sir Ernest to decide to abandon, or postpone,
the first part of the programme and make direct for
South Georgia. Unfortunately, much of our scientific
apparatus, stores and nearly all the special winter equip-
ment, clothing, sledges, etc., had been sent to Cape
Town, which was to have been our base of operations.
Sir Ernest decided, however, that much of the foodstuff
necessary to make up the deficiencies could be obtained
locally, and hoped to get sledges, dogs and winter cloth-
ing at South Georgia. The German Deutsckland expe-
dition, under Filchner, had been abandoned there, and
when we visited the island in 19 14 we found that the
whole of the equipment had been carefully stored and
was in excellent condition. Sir Ernest hoped that much
of this would still be available. Previous to this, in the
belief that we should still be carrying on the full pro-
gramme, the aeroplane had been sent on to the Cape by
mail steamer, and we should therefore be compelled to
do without it at the time when it would be of the greatest
value. At the end of the month most of the essential
work had been completed, but there was still much that
required doing. Mr. Howard was anxious that we should
delay another week to enable him to put in the necessary
Rio to South Georgia 47
finishing touches, but already we were late, and the Boss
decided that further delay was impossible.
The new addition to the deck-house, intended as a
forward messroom, was a mere unfinished shell. Four
bunks were hastily and roughly knocked up, and we left
with no other furniture than a plain deal table, which
was built round a central stanchion, and two benches.
I may say here of the work put in for us at Rio by
Messrs. Wilson & Sons that it was all good and reliable,
and withstood all the usage to which it was subjected,
and Kerr never again had any trouble with the engines
beyond minor adjustments. Mr. Howard had done all
that was possible short of building new engines, which
he maintained was what we required, making no secret
of his opinion that the present ones were unsuitable for
the work to be undertaken. There was nothing for it,
however, but to go forward, and Sir Ernest, though fully
alive to the Quest's disabilities, determined to do the
best possible under the circumstances. He had that
peculiar nature which shows at its best under difficulties.
He was the most undefeated and unconquerable man I
have ever known. His whole life had been spent in
forcing his way against what to most people must have
seemed unsurmountable obstacles. Yet he had always
triumphed, and I, who knew him, felt no doubt that he
would carry this expedition through to a successful con-
clusion. Yet, if the reader will but cast his mind over
the part of this book which he has read and think of
how, since the inception of the expedition, one difficulty
after another had risen to baulk the enterprise, and how
on board the ship one thing after another had gone
wrong and required repair, he will agree that the Boss
might well have thrown in his hand and retired from the
48 Shackleton's Last Voyage
unequal struggle. But nothing could have been more
foreign to his mind — each obstacle but strengthened his
resolve to carry on, and we who served with him never
for one moment felt distrust or doubt that under his
leadership all would go well.
Whilst at Rio a change was made in the personnel.
Eriksen returned home, and three new men were taken
on : Young and Argles as stokers, and Naisbitt as cook's
inate.
We left Wilson's wharf on December 17th, and lay
at anchor for the night in a small bay on the Nictheroy
side, close to the entrance to the harbour. In the morn-
ing we made a final complete stowage, lashing securely
all the loose articles on deck and getting the ship
trimmed ready for sea. Whilst we were engaged in this
an urgent message was sent by motor boat for Dr.
Macklin to go to Sir Ernest, who had slept ashore as
the guest of the Leopoldina Chacara, and who had been
taken suddenly ill. Macklin went off at once, but on
arrival found him fully recovered, saying that he had
merely felt a slight faintness and had really sent for him
to know whether the stores were complete. That this
attack had a greater significance than was appreciated
at the time later events showed.
We set off on December i8th. Sir Ernest, who had
naturally worried a good deal over the continual troubles
which cropped up, became once more his old cheery self,
looking forward to a respite from further alarms regard-
ing the welfare of the ship.
On the day of sailing Jeffrey suffered an injury to his
leg which Macklin pronounced serious, and ordered
three weeks' complete rest in bed, to which Jeffrey, being
an active man, none too willingly assented. As a matter
THE WHITE-CAPPED NODDY \ANOUS STOLIDUS) ON ST. PAUL'S ROCKS
Photos: Wilkins
THE BOOBY iSVLA LBUCOGASTRA)
Rio to South Georgia 49
of fact, as a result of this injury he was incapacitated for
nearly six weeks. Sir Ernest kept his watch.
The first few days at sea were fine and pleasantly
cool. The old system of watches was altered, the men
taking their turns at the wheel in rotation, following
alphabetical order. For the day's work they were called
at 7.0 A.M. and knocked off at 5.0 p.m. The messes were
divided. Sir Ernest, myself, Hussey, Mcllroy, Worsley,
Macklin, Kerr, Jeffrey, Carr and Douglas messed in the
new wardroom forward, and Smith took charge of the
after messroom, with Dell, McLeod, Marr, Young,
Argles and Watts. Green and Naisbitt messed in the
galley.
Three of the bunks in the forward messroom were
occupied by Mcllroy, Kerr and Carr, the fourth being
used as a locker for their personal gear.
Although we had increased the accommodation, it
was still far from being commodious, and the bare,
unfinished condition of the new quarters offered little
comfort. " Roddy " Carr was appointed to make some
cupboards and shelves, and his work, though a bit rough
and ready, answered its purpose well, which was the
main thing. Hussey congratulated him on his new
appointment as joiner, calling him thereafter " Roddy
Carr-penter," which I can assure my readers is the least
of the atrocious puns which we endured from him.
Always a cheery soul, his very presence was worth much
to us on the trip, for it is the small jest which goes
farthest and still sparkles when the more subtle wit has
fallen flat.
On December 22nd we saw our first albatross, a
fine " Wanderer *' which attached itself to the ship and
followed us on our way South. We saw also a
50 Shackleton's Last Voyage
" Portuguese man-o'-war." The two form a combination
rarely seen in the same latitude (30^ 47' S.).
The albatross has a wonderful flight, and our flying
experts, Carr and Wilkins, watched the bird as it soared
and dipped and " banked " and " stalled " and per-
formed numerous evolutions, for each of which they had
a technical or a slang expression.
I had the 4.0-8.0 a.m. watch on December 24th,
during which the wind blew up wet and misty and came
ahead. The Boss gave instructions to call the hands to
take in sail. Whilst the square-sail was being taken in a
corner carrying a heavy block and shackle was whipped
across the deck, catching Carr a violent blow in the face.
He was badly stunned, but picked himself up, with hand
to face, blood flowing freely from between his fingers.
When examined, it was found that his nose was broken.
After some trouble the surgeons replaced the bones in
position, but Carr, standing in front of a looking-glass,
attempted to improve the work, with the result that the
operation had to be carried out a second time, with
pertinent remarks from Hussey as to the effects upon
his personal appearance if further interfered with.
Later in the day the mist cleared and the sun
came out. In the evening we were able to set sail
again.
This being Christmas Eve, we sat after supper and
talked of the various Christmases we had spent. Each
man pictured the Christmas he would like to spend
to-morrow if he got the chance. It is funny how we
cling, in spite of long years of disillusionment, to the
mind-pictures of our childhood, and conjure up visions
of a snow-covered countryside, with robins, holly trees,
waits, and all the things that go into the Christmas card
Photo: Dr. Macklin
COMMANDER WORSLEY SUPERINTENDING WORK IN THE
RIGGING AT RIO DE JANEIRO
Fnoto: li'iikins
THE QUEST IN GRITVIKEN HARBOUR. MORANEN FIORD AND
THE ALLARDYCE RANGE BEHIND
Rio to South Georgia 51
We forget the warm, wet, miserable Christmas days ; and
perhaps it is just as well.
Our position, situated as we were in the midst of a
waste of stormy waters, was not an ideal one, but we
looked forward to celebrating Christmas in a cheery way.
Mr. and Mrs. Rowett had sent us as a parting gift a big
box of Christmas fare, which included such delicacies
as turkeys, hams, plum puddings, and muscatels and
raisins. The evening was fine, and in spite of sundry
croakings from Hussey, our weather prophet, we antici-
pated a cheery Christmas dinner.
During the night it became apparent that a gale was
brewing, and Hussey's prediction seemed to be only too
correct, for by Christmas morning the Quest was heaving
and pitching and behaving in such a lively manner that
we saw that any attempt at festivity on this day would
be futile. At breakfast-time it was almost impossible to
keep anything on the table; cups, plates and crockery
generally were thrown about, and the fiddles proved
useless to keep them in position. We therefore put
away Mrs. Rowett's delicacies for a more favourable
occasion. Green had a hard and trying time in his
galley. The Boss told him not to bother about serving
a decent lunch, but to serve out each man w^ith a good
thick bully-beef sandwich. This we ate in the shelter
of the alleyways, well braced against the roll of the ship.
It was a pleasant surprise when Green was able to pro-
duce some hot cocoa, which from its taste I suspected
to have been made from engine-room water. It was,
however, hot and wet and comforting to our chilled
bodies.
For our Christmas dinner we had a thick stew, which
was not bad. Two bottles also materialized, one of rum
52 Shackleton's Last Voyage
and one of whisky. Each man was allowed a tot of
whichever he preferred. Rum, being the stronger, was
generally selected. The Boss gave us the toast of *' Our
good friends, John and Ellie Rowett," which we drank
enthusiastically. Afterwards the Boss asked each man
where he had spent the last Christmas, and it was inter-
esting to find how much scattered over the globe we had
been. The Boss was in London, Mcllroy and myself
were in Central Africa, Worsley in Iceland, Macklin in
Singapore, Jeffrey in New York, Kerr in Hamburg,
Carr in Lithuania, McLeod in Mauritius, Naisbitt in
Rio, and Young in Cape Town. Green was wandering
somewhere round the East as steward of a tramp
steamer, and of all of us only the Boss, Hussey and
Marr, the Boy Scout, seemed to have spent theirs at
home.
During the day we were visited by numbers of sea
birds which seemed to be in no way perturbed by the
high winds : albatross, whale birds, Mother Carey's
chickens. Cape pigeons and a Cape hen. It was cheer-
ing to see them again, these old friends of ours, and to
watch their flight as they sailed cleverly from the shelter
of one wave to another, rarely meeting the full force of
the gale.
On the 26th the weather had abated somewhat,
though a strong wind continued to blow from the west.
The temperature dropped to 60° P., making the air quite
chilly, and we were glad to don heavier clothing.
Kerr came to me with a report that the forward water
tank was empty. He had sounded several times, and
had gone below to tap the sides, the tank yielding a
hollow note, so that there was no doubt about it. The
small after tank, which had been freely used since leav-
Rio to South Georgia 53
ing Rio de Janeiro, was also nearly empty, so that there
was very little fresh water left on the ship. It was
necessary to report this to Sir Ernest, though I did not
like doing so, for I knew that the former troubles had
caused him much worry, and he was now in hopes that
he had heard the last of them. Though he took the
news, which was serious enough, in all calmness, I could
see that it caused him some uneasiness. We had to
economize rigidly in the use of what water was left, using
it for cooking and drinking purposes only, and making
the best use we could of sea water for washing and clean-
ing. There was a small exhaust tank in the engine-
room, which collected the steam after it had passed
through the cylinders. The amount of water from this
source was small, and tasted somewhat oily, but it helped
to eke out the supply. Kerr removed the tank lid and
made a search from inside for the site of the leak, which
proved fortunately to be not in the walls of the tank itself
but at the junction with the feed pipe.
During the night of the 27th-28th the wind again
freshened. I had the middle watch. By 2.0 a.m. a
furious gale was blowing from the W.N.W. Rapidly
rising seas came along in quick succession with big curl-
ing tops, and breaking with a roar ran along our rails
with a venomous hiss. The wind was on our starboard
quarter, and under topsail and square-sail we made good
speed before it. The ship's log registered nine knots.
With each drive forward of the big seas the ship overran
her engines, ultimately compelling us to shut off steam.
We were making such good headway that I was loath to
heave-to, and we continued to rush along in a smother of
foam and spray, veering and twisting to such an extent
that the man at the wheel had all his work cut out to
54 Shackleton's Last Voyage
maintain a course and prevent her from broaching-to. I
was afraid that some of the gear might carry away, and
strained continuously into the darkness ahead. There
was, however, something about the leap and swing of
the ship as she tore along that caused our spirits to rise
and created a tremendous feeling of uplift.
I was relieved at 4.0 a.m. by Worsley, who carried on
for another two hours. At 6.0 a.m. the seas had risen
to such an extent that Sir Ernest decided to heave-to,
and all hands were called to take in sail. Putting the
ship straight before the wind we let go the square-sail
with a run, all hands rushing forward to gather up the
canvas and stow it securely. Dell, jumping to assist
another man, got his foot caught in a coil of rope, which,
running out at high speed, threw him violently off his
feet, causing an injury from which he took months to
recover. We let go the topsail sheets and started to
clew up, the wind causing the sail to flap with loud
reports and bending the yard like a bow. Worsley and
Macklin clambered aloft to take it in and pass the
gaskets which secure it to the yard.
The gale increased in violence. I was agreeably
surprised with the Qtiest's behaviour, for she lay-to much
more comfortably than I had expected, and took com-
paratively little water over her sides. There was enough,
however, to make things uncomfortable, for it filled the
waist of the ship, flooded the cabins, and sweeping along
the alleyways entered the galley and extinguished the
fires. Green stuck valiantly to his post and managed at
each meal-time to serve us out some good solid sand-
wiches and, what was of especial value under the cir-
cumstances, a good hot drink, which sent a warm glow
through our arteries and put new life into us. We con-
Rio to South Georgia 55
siderably reduced the amount of water coming on board
by placing a series of oil bags over the bow, which
subdued the seas in a manner scarcely credible except
to those who watched its effect upon them, as with break-
ing tops they rushed angrily upon us, suddenly to lose
all their sting and slip harmless under our keel. With
regard to the use of oil bags, if they are to be used at all,
it is necessary to let the oil run freely, though not neces-
sarily wastefully. Small driblets are valueless and not
worth the trouble of putting over the side.
The next day there was still a strong sea running,
but it was merely the aftermath of the gale, which lost
its sting about midnight. In the morning the sun came
out and brightened things up considerably. Later in
the day we were able to set sail and proceed on our way.
Our friendly sea-birds, which had disappeared during
the worst of the storm, returned and followed in our
wake.
We had not long been under way when Sir Ernest
approached, saying quietly : " Wild, you came to me
with bad news the other day; I have some news for
you."
"Good or bad.?" I asked.
" Bad," he replied; " worse than yours; bad enough
perhaps to stop the expedition."
He then told me that Kerr, who had been the
harbinger of so much evil tidings, had again to report
the discovery of a most serious condition. Whilst clean-
ing fires he had discovered a leak in the furnace from
which the water bubbled out and ran in a thin stream
down the sides. He was unable to state definitely the
exact condition, which could not be examined until our
arrival in South Georgia, as it required that the fires
56 Shackleton's Last Voyage
should be drawn to enable him to creep bodily into the
furnace. He explained that it might be a small matter
which could be repaired, or it might prove to be so serious
that the boiler could not be used further. In spite of
the quiet way in which Sir Ernest took this news, and
the calm which he outwardly exhibited, I think it proved
to be a pretty severe blow and the cause of a good deal
of worry.
Indeed, all this recurrence of trouble from below
decks, in departments which he personally had not been
able to supervise, must have proved very trying. From
the very first inception of the expedition he had had
difficulties innumerable which might well have broken
the spirit of a lesser man.
For the present Kerr was instructed to keep a watch-
ful eye on the condition and, unless it appeared to be
getting worse, to carry on under reduced pressure.
The wind again blew up to a moderate gale from the
westward on December 30th, much less severe, however,
than the last one, though with very violent squalls. We
ran off before it, making good speed, and though the
rising seas rushed down upon our stern as if to poop us,
the Quest rose to let them pass frothing and sizzling, but
harmless, under our counter.
Towards evening, however, both wind and sea had
increased, and Sir Ernest decided to take in sail and
heave-to. Much water came on board and found its
way into Sir Ernest's cabin and my own, the doors of
which opened on to the waist of the ship. The bunks
were sodden, so much so that Sir Ernest left his and
made up a bed on one of the benches in the wardroom,
refusing to deprive any other man of his bunk. During
the long spell of bad weather he had spent nearly the
Rio to South Georgia 57
whole time on the bridge, and though I repeatedly sug-
gested to him that he should lie down and rest, he would
not do so. On this particular night he took Worsley's
watch as well as his own, so that Worsley's rest might
not be disturbed. He was always doing little things like
this for other people.
About this time I began to feel a little bit uneasy,
for it seemed to me that he was doing too much and
subjecting himself to too great a strain.
Macklin's diary shows that he had the wheel during
the second dog-watch, and was relieved at 8.0 p.m. by
Sir Ernest, who told him to lash the wheel and go to bed.
Macklin noticed, however, that the Boss was looking
tired and ill, and urged him to call Worsley (whose real
watch it was) and turn in himself. The Boss would not
hear of it, saying :
" You boys are tired and need all the sleep you can
get."
The diary says :
He was looking so tired that I offered with some
diffidence, for I am not a trained seaman, to stay on
myself, saying that on the least sign of anything unto-
ward happening I would blow a whistle. Somehow
or other a long conversation ensued, in which he told
me many things. He said :
" If this crack in the furnace proves serious I may
have to abandon the expedition — my reputation will
stand it — but I am not beaten; John Rowett under-
stands me, and will trust me to make the best of things,
even if I have to get a new ship."
He reverted to his original northern scheme,
saying :
58 Shackleton's Last Voyage
" The Quest would have been suitable for that; in
the Davis Strait, even if we lost her, we should have
had no difficulty in reaching land, where we could
subsist on game and carry on without her."
So ended the Old Year. New Year's Day brought
us a calm sea with long oily swell, and over all a drench-
ing mist. Being a Sunday little work was done, and all
hands were allowed a rest after the somewhat trying
days we had just experienced.
With the new year Sir Ernest Shackleton again
commenced to write in his journal, which I insert
verbatim.
January ist, ig22.
Rest and calm after the storm. The year has
begun kindly for us; it is curious how a certain date
becomes a factor and a milestone in one's life. Christ-
mas Day in a raging gale seemed out of place. I
dared not venture to hope that to-day would be as it
was. Anxiety has been probing deeply into me, for
until the very end of the year things have gone awry.
Engines unreliable; furnace cracked; water short;
heavy gales ; all that physically can go wrong, but the
spirit of all on board is sound and good.
There are two points in the adventures of a diver,
One when a beggar he prepares to plunge,
One when a prince he rises with his pearl.
January 2nd^ 1922.
Another wonderful day, fine, clear, a slight head
wind, but cheerful for us after these last days of stress
and strain. At i p.m. we passed our first berg. The
old familiar sight aroused in me memories that the
strenuous years had deadened. Blue caverns shone
Rio to South Georgia 59
with sky-glow snatched from heaven itself, green
spurs showed beneath the water.
And bergs mast high
Came sailing by,
As green as emerald.
Ah me ! the years that have gone since in the pride
of young manhood I first went forth to the fight. I
grow old and tired, but must always lead on.
January yd^ 1922.
Another beautiful day ; fortune seems to attend us
this New Year, but so anxious have I been, when
things are going well, I wonder what internal difficulty
will be sprung upon me. All day long a light wind
and clear sky was our happy portion. I find a diffi-
culty in settling down to write — I am so much on the
qui vive; I pray that the furnace will hold out.
Thankful that I can
Be crossed and thwarted as a man.
January ^th, 1922.
At last, after sixteen days of turmoil and anxiety,
on a peaceful sunshiny day, we came to anchor in
Gritviken. How familiar the coast seemed as we
passed down : we saw with full interest the places we
struggled over after the boat journey. Now we must
speed all we can, but the prospect is not too bright, for
labour is scarce. The old familiar smell of dead
whale permeates everything. It is a strange and
curious place.
Douglas and Wilkins are at different ends of the
island. A wonderful evening.
In the darkening twilight I saw a lone star hover
Gem-like above the bay.
6o Shackleton's Last Voyage
These were the last words written by Sir Ernest
Shackleton.
I continue my own narrative.
Early in the morning of Wednesday, January 4th, we
sighted Wallis Island, and soon after the main island of
South Georgia opened into view, with its snow-clad rocky
slopes and big glaciers running to the sea. With fair
wind and in smooth water we passed along the coast.
Sir Ernest at sight of the island had completely thrown
off his despondency, became once more his active self,
and stood with Worsley and myself on the bridge, pick-
ing out through binoculars, with almost boyish excite-
ment, the old familiar features, and recognizing places
with such words as, " Look, there's the glacier we
descended ! " or, " There, do you see, coming into view,
the slope where we lit the Primus and cooked our
meal ? " He kept his spirits throughout the day, and it
was with the greatest pleasure that I recognized once
more the old buoyant, optimistic Boss.
The day cleared beautifully, and we entered Cumber-
land Bay in bright sunshine, with not a ripple on the
surface of the water. How familiar it all seemed as we
rounded the point and entered Gritviken Harbour, with
the little station nestling at the foot of the three big
peaks, the spars of the Tijuca, the small whalers along
the pier; all exactly as we had left them seven years
before. The Boss, looking across at the slopes above
our '' dog-lines," remarked, '* The Cross has gone from
the hillside ! " '
The poles which had been set up by us to mark the
north and south direction were still standing; we were
^ Referring to a conspicuously placed cross set up by the crew of the
Deutschland to one of their members who had died there.
Rio to South Georgia 6i
informed that they were used regularly by the whalers
in adjusting their compasses.
We passed the spit with the little Argentine meteoro-
logical station, behind which lay the house of the
Government officials, and dropped anchor in the Endur-
ance's old anchorage.
One familiar landmark was missing — the little
hospital hut in which I had lived with Mcllroy, Macklin,
Hussey, Crean and Marston, the dog-drivers of the last
expedition. We found later that it had been moved
from its old site close to the " dog-lines " to a more
central position amongst the huts of the station.
Mr. Jacobsen, the manager, an old friend of ours,
came aboard, and shortly afterwards returned to the
shore with Sir Ernest, who was full of vigour and
energy.
I had the boat lowered and went ashore with Mcllroy,
Hussey, Carr, Macklin and some others to look about
our old quarters.
The season was now midsummer, the snow had dis-
appeared from the lower slopes, and with the bright
sunshine and warmth the place had a very different
aspect from what it had when we were here in 19 14, much
earlier in the season. In other respects there was little
change, and we recognized amongst the workers at the
station a number with whom we had been familiar; in
particular, one of the flensers, a hard-bitten individual
who was standing with spiked sea-boots on a huge whale
carcass, assisting the stripping process by deft cuts here
and there with his long-handled knife.
We visited our old hut in its new situation. It was
now being used as a hospital again, and a young Danish
doctor was in charge. We passed along to its old site
62 Shackleton's Last Voyage
beside the stream, which runs clear and icy cold straight
from the snows. There was much less volume of water
than when we were here before, but the little basin we
had cut out as a bathing place was still there. Here,
with the others, I used to take a morning dip. That was
in the days of my hardihood. Macklin used to lie down
in it, and stand in the snow to dry himself.
We went on to the *' dog-lines," passing en route
the little cemetery, which we glanced at casually enough.
The stakes to which we had secured the tethering lines
were still standing as we had left them, as were also the
boards with which we had made a flooring for the tent.
We climbed the hill to a lake, on the frozen surface of
which we used to exercise the dogs — it was now a sheet
of open water. We sat down on the banks, enjoying the
lovely sunshine, and watched the countless skua gulls
and terns which, attracted by the unwonted visitors, flew
close down over our heads. The younger spirits, full
of exuberance, and revelling in the change from the
confinement of the ship, threw stones at them, and
tempted Query, who had accompanied us, to retrieve
pieces of wood from the lake.
On our way back we were accosted by an incongruous
figure — a coal-black nigger, on whose head was perched
a bowler hat many sizes too small. He addressed us
with a marked American twang :
" Say, you boys from the Quest, you goin' to the
South Pole, ain't you.^ Wal, guess I'm comin' along
with ya ! "
We guessed he wasn't, and passed on. We learned
from Mr. Jacobsen that he was a stowaway from St.
Vincent, who was a perfect nuisance to them, and who
was being sent away ai the earliest opportunity.
Rio to South Georgia 63
This being the first time we had been on an even keel
since leaving Rio de Janeiro, we had dinner in comfort
and spent a cheery evening, the Boss being full of jokes.
At the finish he rose, saying, " To-morrow we'll keep
Christmas." I went on deck with him, and we discussed
a few details of work. He went to his cabin to turn in.
I arranged for an " anchor watch " to be kept, and also
turned in early for a good sound sleep.
CHAPTER IV
DEATH OF SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON
ON Thursday, January 5th, I was awakened about
3.0 A.M. to find both of the doctors in my cabin —
Macklin was lighting my oil lamp. Mcllroy said :
" We want you to wake up thoroughly, for we have
some bad news to give you — the worst possible.''
I sat up, saying :
" Go on with it, let me have it straight out ! "
He replied : " The Boss is dead ! *'
It was a staggering blow.
Roused thus in the middle of the night to receive
this news, it was some minutes before I felt its full
significance. I remember saying mechanically :
" The Boss dead ! Dead, do you mean.? He can't
be dead ! "
On asking for particulars, I learned from Macklin
that he was taking the 2.0-4.0 a.m. anchor watch. He
was patrolling the ship, when he was attracted by a
whistle from the Boss's cabin, and on going in, found
him sitting up in his bunk. His own account, written
almost immediately after, is as follows :
Was called at 2.0 a.m. for my watch. A cold
night but clear and beautiful, with every star showing.
I was slowly walking up and down the deck, when I
heard a whistle from the Boss's cabin. I went in, and
he said : " Hullo, Mack, boy, is that you } I thought
it was." He continued : *' I can't sleep to-night, can
64
^^i^'^^-^..^^^ ^^ "
Photo: Wilkins
THE RESTING PLAGE OF A GREAT EXPLORER
Photo : Wilkins
THE PICTURESQUE SETTING OF PRINCE OLAF STATION
Death of Sir Ernest Shackleton 65
you get me a sleeping draught ? " He explained that
he was suffering from severe facial neuralgia, and had
taken fifteen grains of aspirin. " That stuff is no
good ; will you get me something which will act ? "
I noticed that although it was a cold night he had
only one blanket, and asked him if he had no others.
He replied that they were in his bottom drawer and
he could not be bothered getting them out. I started
to do so, but he said, '' Never mind to-night, I can
stand the cold." However, I went back to my cabin
and got a heavy Jaeger blanket from my bunk, which
I tucked round him. He was unusually quiet in the
way he let me do things for him. . . . He talked of
many things quite rationally, and finding him in such
a complacent mood, I thought it a good opportunity
to emphasize the necessity of his taking things very
much more quietly than he had been doing. ..." You
are always wanting me to give up something. What
do you want me to give up now ? " This was the last
thing he said.
He died quite suddenly.
1 remamed with him during the worst of the attack,
but as soon as I could leave him I ran to Mcllroy and,
shaking him very roughly I am afraid, said : " Wake
up, Mick, come at once to the Boss. He is dying ! "
On my way back I woke Hussey, and told him to get
me certain medicines. It must have been rather a
shocking awakening for both of them, but they leapt
up at once. Nothing could be done, however. I
noted the time — it was about 2.50 a.m.
I had Worsley called and informed him of what had
occurred. To the rest I said nothing till the morning.
66 Shackleton's Last Voyage
At 8.0 A.M. I mustered all hands on the poop, and
told them the bad news. Naturally it was a great shock
to them all, especially to those who had served with
him before and thus knew him more intimately. I added
briefly that I now commanded the expedition, which
would carry on.
On that day, and on the several that followed, rain
fell heavily, fitting in with our low spirits.
I immediately set about making arrangements for
sending home the sad news to Lady Shackleton, and
for notifying Mr. Rowett.
I sent for Watts, our wireless operator, and asked
him if he could establish communication. He said he
would try. From his log : *' My ambition was to get
the type 15 set working, so as to pass the news as
quickly as possible. The whole set I stripped and
tested thoroughly, and ' made good ' minor defects, but
luck was still against me. The dynamo was run at
5.45 P.M., and whilst testing the installation the machine
suddenly raced, and fuses were blown out, so further
working of the set had to be abandoned."
I went ashore to see Mr. Jacobsen, who was deeply
shocked at the news. I learned from him that there
was no wireless apparatus on the island other than those
carried by the oil transport steamers, none of which,
however, had a sending range sufficient to get into touch
with a receiving station from here. He told me that
the Alduera, a steamer lying at Leith Harbour farther
round the coast, was due to sail in about ten days. He
said that if I cared to go to Leith and make arrange-
ments with her captain for sending the news, he would
put at my disposal the Lillle Karl, a small steam whaler
used by him for visiting different parts of the island.
Death of Sir Ernest Shackleton 67
I accepted his offer, and whilst the vessel was being
got ready went with Mcllroy and Macklin to notify the
resident magistrate. He was away at another station,
but I saw Mr. Barlas, the assistant magistrate. It is
curious how one notices small things at a time like this.
One incident stands out vividly in my memory. At
the moment of my telling him he was lighting a cigarette,
which he dropped on the table-cloth, where it continued
to burn. I remember picking it up for him and placing
it where it could do no harm. This done I left for Leith
with Mcllroy, who during the whole of this time was of
the greatest help and assistance. Everyone at Leith
showed the greatest kindness and sympathy, and Captain
Manson, of the Albuera, readily undertook to send off
the message as soon as he got within range of any
wireless station.
Arrangements for the disposal of the body I left to
Macklin, and to Hussey I entrusted the care of papers
and personal effects.
At first I decided to bury Sir Ernest in South
Georgia. I had no idea, however, of what Lady Shackle-
ton's wishes might be, and so ultimately decided to send
him home to England. The doctors embalmed the
body, which was placed in a lined coffin kindly made
for us by Mr. Hansen, of Leith. There was a steamer
named Professor Gruvel lying in Gritviken Harbour,
which was due to sail in about ten days, and her captain,
Captain Jacobsen, offered to carry the body as far as
Monte Video, from where it could be sent on by mail
boat.
As soon as the necessary arrangements had been
made we carried him ashore. All hands mustered
quietly and stood bareheaded as we lifted the coffin,
68 Shackleton's Last Voyage
covered by our silk white ensign, to the side of the
Quest, and passed it over into a motor launch. All the
time the rain soaked heavily down. From the pier we
carried him to the little hospital and placed him in the
room in which we had lived together seven years
before.
The next day we carried him to the little church,
which is situated so romantically at the foot of towering
snow-covered mountains, over ground which he had so
often trod with firm, eager steps in making the final
preparations for the start of the Endurance expedition.
Here I said good-bye to the Boss, a great explorer,
a great leader and a good comrade.
I had served with him in all his expeditions, twice
as his second-in-command. I accompanied him on his
great journey which so nearly attained the Pole, shared
with him every one of his trials and vicissitudes in the
South, and rejoiced with him in his triumphs. No one
knew the explorer side of his nature better than I, and
many are the tales I could tell of his thoughtfulness and
his sacrifices on behalf of others, of which he himself
never spoke.
Of his hardihood and extraordinary powers of endur-
ance, his buoyant optimism when things seemed hopeless
and his unflinching courage in the face of danger I have
no need to speak. He always did more than his share
of work. Medical evidence shows that the condition
which caused his death was an old standing one and was
due to throwing too great a strain upon a system weak-
ened by shortage of food. I have known personally and
served with all the British leaders of exploration in the
Antarctic since my first voyage in the Discovery. For
qualities of leadership and ability to organize Shackleton
A STEAM WHALER WITH TWO WHALES BROUGHT IN FOR FLENSING
HUGE BLUE WHALES AT SOUTH GEORGIA
Fkoi,:: i^-uK.
Death of Sir Ernest Shackleton 69
stands foremost and must be ranked as the first explorer
of his day.
I felt his loss, coming as it did, most keenly.
In order to ensure safe disposal of the body, and to
arrange for its transference at Monte Video, I detailed
Hussey to accompany it home. I could ill spare him,
but I considered him the most suitable man I could select
for the purpose. Naturally it was a disappointment to
him to give up the expedition, but he accepted the
responsibility without demur, and I am grateful to
him for the spirit in which he complied with my
arrangements.
As subsequent events turned out, Hussey received
a message at Monte Video from Lady Shackleton ex-
pressing her wish that Sir Ernest should be buried in
South Georgia, which was the scene of one of his greatest
exploits, and which might well be described as the
" Gateway of the Antarctic." The coffin was returned
to Gritviken by the Woodville, through the courtesy of
Captain Least, and Sir Ernest was ultimately buried in
the little cemetery beside our old " dog-lines." Of his
comrades, only Hussey was present at the funeral, for the
rest of us had already sailed into the South, but there were
many amongst the hardy whalers of South Georgia who
attended, men who knew him and could, better than most
people, appreciate his work. Nor was the sympathetic
presence of a woman lacking, for at the funeral was Mrs.
Aarberg, wife of the Norwegian doctor at Leith, who
with kindly thought had placed upon his grave a wreath
made from the only flowers on the island, those which
she had cultivated with much care and patience inside
her own house. She was the only woman on South
Georgia.
70 Shackleton's Last Voyage
I have not the least doubt that had Sir Ernest been
able to decide upon his last resting-place, it is just here
that he would have chosen to lie, and would have pre-
ferred this simple funeral to any procedure carried out
with greater pomp and ceremony.
Not here ! the white South has thy bones ; and thou,
Heroic sailor-soul,
Art passing on thine happier voyage now
Toward no earthly Pole/
* Adaptation from Tennyson's lines on Franklin.
CHAPTER V
PREPARATIONS IN SOUTH GEORGIA
We can make good all loss except
The loss of turning back. — Kipling.
THOUGH we all felt very keenly the loss we had
suffered in the death of the Boss, we could not
allow our depression of spirits to take too strong a hold
on us, for there was much work to be done.
The season was now well advanced, and I had to
make up my mind at once as to what we were going to
do. Sir Ernest Shackleton's death, occurring at this
critical juncture, left me with no knowledge of his plans,
for he had withheld any definite decision as to future
movements until he should be able to arrange for another
complete overhaul of the engines. Since hearing of the
crack in the furnace he had outlined several alternative
propositions without, however, showing any definite
leaning to any one of them.
The entry in his diary of January ist shows how
fully he realized the condition of the engines. Yet he
added : " But the spirit of all on board is sound and
good " ; and later, " I must always lead on " ! There is
not the slightest doubt that he intended to go on with
the work, and I knew that had he lived he would have
found some way to carry on.
My position, when summed up, was as follows :
I was out of communication with the rest of the
world, and there was no possibility of my receiving any
71
72 Shackleton's Last Voyage
message from Mr. Rowett. I had therefore to act for
myself.
The Antarctic open season was well advanced, and
thus limited the time available for manoeuvring in the
ice. I had therefore to act without delay.
With regard to the ship, the recent heavy storms had
shown her to be a fine sea-boat, capable of standing any
weather at sea. Rigging and hull were sound. The
troubles which had so continuously cropped up since our
leaving England had shown, however, that the engines
could not be regarded as reliable.
We were short of both food stores and equipment,
for our depot for the South was to have been Cape
Town, and as a result of all the delays involved since
our start we had not been able to go there and take them
up. The food stores included those things most suitable
for cold regions. The general equipment included
warm clothing, footgear, sledging gear and harness;
special ice equipment in the way of ice-picks, ice-
anchors and hand harpoons; oil and paraffin for the
engines and dynamos, and a quantity of scientific gear.
As to personnel, I knew that I had with me men who
would staunchly stand by me and support me in whatever
decision I should come to.
Sir Ernest had spoken on one occasion, just before
arrival at South Georgia, of proceeding down Bransfield
Strait, finding a suitable spot somewhere on the western
side of Graham Land, and freezing the ship in for the
winter. When summer appeared he would cross Graham
Land to the Weddell Sea and explore the coastline on
that side as far as time and conditions should permit.
Of his different plans, this and his published pro-
gramme of proceeding eastwards and making an attempt
Preparations in South Georgia 73
to penetrate the pack ice as near to Enderby Land as
possible, and from there to push south, were the only
two which I could consider.
As to the first, for the carrying out of this I should
require a large quantity of stores, sledging equipment
and good winter clothing. As before stated, these were
at Cape Town, and unless I could obtain them in South
Georgia this scheme must fall through.
Sir Ernest's last message home had been that all was
well with the ship and the expedition, and he had never
had a chance to announce publicly the final situation.
Mr. Rowett might therefore wonder at any change of
plan occurring after his death. On this score, however,
I was not greatly concerned, for I felt that in anything
I should undertake I would have his support and carry
his trust.
With regard to the original published programme, I
realized that to enter an area which had hitherto proved
impenetrable to every ship which had made the attempt,
would with the Quest be a hazardous undertaking even
under the most favourable circumstances. Any ship
entering heavy pack ice runs a risk of being beset and
frozen in, and when that has occurred her fate lies abso-
lutely with the gods. Should the ship be crushed, the
chances of escape from the area in which we should be
working could only be regarded as remote, for even if we
succeeded in escaping from the pack with our boats, the
nearest point we could make for would be Cape Town, a
distance of over two thousand miles, through stormy seas,
dependent for water supply upon what we could collect
in the way of rain.
Any fool can push a ship into the ice and lose her —
my job was to bring her back again.
74 Shackleton's Last Voyage
On careful weighing of the two alternatives the
Graham Land proposition appealed to me more
strongly, for it offered the prospect of good work; and
in case of accident we should be within measurable reach
of whalers, which in their search for whales penetrate
deeply amongst the islands of the Palmer Archipelago.
Though I was faced with an innumerable number of
smaller considerations, the above represents roughly the
situation at the time.
Therefore with these points of view in mind before
coming to any decision at all, I gave instructions to Kerr
to examine thoroughly and overhaul the engines and
boilers and report to me his considered opinion. This
he did. The work done at Rio had been good and
sound, and he considered the condition of the engines
to be fit for proceeding. The boiler presented a difficult
problem. On looking up the record of the Quest (or the
Foca I as she was previously named) in the Norwegian
Veritas, I discovered that though the ship was compara-
tively new, the boiler had been built in 1890, and was
thus thirty-one years old.
Kerr made an examination from inside, and I had
also the second opinion, by courtesy of Captain Jacobsen,
of the chief engineer of the Professor Gruvel.
The report showed that the condition was not repar-
able, but at the same time was not likely to develop
further and become serious.
I threw upon Kerr the onus of deciding as to whether
the engines and boiler were fit to continue with into the
ice or not. With true native caution (he comes of Aber-
deen stock) he replied that there was always a risk of
breakdown, but not an unreasonable one ; he was willing
to take it himself.
Preparations in South Georgia 75
So far as that was concerned I decided to go
ahead.
My next step was to see about the special winter
equipment which Sir Ernest had hoped would be
available here.
I learned to my dismay from Mr. Jacobsen that
Filchner's store had been opened up and the contents
scattered. There were no dogs on the island. They
had proved so voracious and such a nuisance to the
station that they had been shot. Food could be ob-
tained, and a certain amount of clothing from the slop
chests' of the different stations, but this was considered
of doubtful quality and not recommended for our pur-
pose. I thought bitterly of the good stuff lying in a
Cape Town warehouse.
These considerations caused me reluctantly to rule
out the Graham Land proposition.
There remained now only to carry on as the Boss
had intended or to go back. As a matter of fact,
I hardly gave the latter a thought. To go back was
intolerable and quite incompatible with British prestige.
To carry out against all difficulties the work the Boss
had set out to do appealed to me strongly. I made my
decision, and let it be known to all hands, giving each
one a chance to back out before it was too late. I
believe there was not one who ever so much as thought
of it, and none seemed to doubt but that we would go on.
Such is the onus of leadership. Where you must con-
cern yourself for the safety and welfare of those under
your charge, they place in you their trust and do not
worry at all. This is as it should be.
I told Macklin, who was in charge of stores and
* Clothing stores.
76 Shackleton's Last Voyage
equipment, to take a complete and accurate tally of
everything we had aboard and then work out and make
a list of requirements for the period to be spent in
the ice.
When this was done I sent him to visit the different
stations and pick out from their slop chests anything
that he might consider necessary in the way of clothing.
Nothing was available at Gritviken, and so on
January i6th we left for Leith Harbour, where we
received the greatest kindness from Mr. Hansen, the
manager of the whaling station. His keen interest and
practical assistance meant a great deal to me at this
critical time, and his genial qualities and kindly hospi-
tality did much to dissipate the gloom which had fallen
upon us. We obtained from him all the food stores we
required and a general outfit of clothing and blankets,
which, though by no means the equivalent of our own
specially prepared stuff, was at least adequate to meet
the demands of a single season. Amongst other things,
each man was provided with a fur-lined leather cap, an
abundance of socks and mitts, a pair of stout ankle
boots, a pair of sea boots, a quantity of warm under-
clothing, heavy pea-jacket, light windproof jacket, a
stout pair of trousers, three good blankets and a warm
coverlet.
It was necessary before starting to fill the bunkers
with coal. Mr. Hansen had none to spare, but he took
me round in a whaler to Husvik Harbour, where Mr.
Andersen, the manager, promised to supply me with
what we required.
On January 14th I told Worsley to take the Quest
to Husvik, where she was placed alongside the Orwell,
the station oil carrier, from which we took aboard 105
Preparations in South Georgia ^^
tons of best Welsh coal. In the meantime work had
been going on busily on board, for Worsley and Jeffrey
had much to do in their preparations for the ice. The
forward water tank had been made sound and a hand
pump fitted. Dell, McLeod and Marr tested all run-
ning gear and rigging, which was set up in good order
and any defective material replaced. Marr, since leav-
ing Rio, had been replaced in the galley by Naisbitt,
and now assisted Dell about the deck, a job very much
more to his taste. He was also appointed " Lampy,"
having charge of all the non-electrical lighting of the
ship.
Wilkins and Douglas, who had preceded us here
from Rio de Janeiro in order to have more time for their
scientific work, rejoined us, and were much shocked at
the news we had to give them.
We were now ready for sea, but returned first to
Leith Harbour to pick up two ice anchors and a number
of hand harpoons, ice picks and ice axes which Mr.
Hansen had turned out for us in his workshop.
We received from the Norwegian people in South
Georgia during the whole of our stay nothing but the
greatest kindness and sympathy and the most valuable
practical assistance in our somewhat extensive prepara-
tions. This is the more remarkable in that they are not
of our nationality and Norway has ever been our keenest
rival in Polar exploration. They were, however, as Sir
Ernest would have said, " of the Brotherhood of the
Sea," and that explains much.
We were about to embark upon what would most
certainly prove to be the most arduous part of our pro-
gramme, which I had briefly outlined in a last letter to
Mr. Rowett as follows :
78 Shackleton's Last Voyage
As I am at present out of communication with you,
and in view of the lateness of the season, which
necessitates that any attempt to enter the ice must be
carried out without delay, I have decided to carry on
the work of the expedition, adhering as nearly as
circumstances permit to the plans as most recently
expressed by Sir Ernest Shackleton.
Consequently ... I intend pushing to the east-
ward to a position dependent upon the date as mark-
ing the advancement of the season, striking south
through the pack ice, and making an attempt to reach
the Great Ice Barrier. If I am successful in this, I
will turn westwards and map out, as far as possible,
the coastline in the direction of Coats Land, but
taking steps to escape before the ship gets frozen in.
There are, however, certain factors which may
compel me to use my discretion in altering the pro-
gramme, as follows :
I. In addition to the defects of the ship already
notified to you by Sir Ernest Shackleton, compelling
alterations at Lisbon, St. Vincent and Rio de Janeiro,
during this last stage of the voyage two other grave
defects were discovered : a crack and a leak in the
boiler furnace, and a leak in the forward water
tank which almost emptied it. On arrival here
the boiler was examined by Mr. Kerr, the chief
engineer of the Quest, and by engineers from the
whaling station. After careful consideration they
have decided that it is possible to go forward, and Mr.
Kerr states that it is quite reasonable to enter the ice
under the conditions.
Whilst ashore, I took the opportunity of looking
up the record in the Norwegian Record of Ships, and
Preparations in South Georgia 79
found that the boiler was built in 1890, and is con-
sequently 31 years old, a fact of which I feel quite
sure Sir Ernest was ignorant. . . . From the time the
expedition started various defects of the engines have
appeared, and any further developments in this
respect may entail change of plan.
2. The capability of the Quest to deal with pack
ice. It has been shown during the voyage that she is
of lower engine power than was originally expected,
and much will depend upon what speed and driving
power she can maintain in the ice.
3. The lateness of the season limits the amount of
time in which it is possible to operate in the ice pack.
4. Progress will depend upon conditions which
cannot altogether be foreseen, viz. weather conditions,
and the depth and density of the pack ice when we
encounter it, varying greatly as it does from year to
year. ... I expect to leave the ice towards the end
of March, and will probably return to this island
(South Georgia) or the Falkand Islands for coal and
water. . . .
This briefly indicates my plan and the outlook at
the time we left South Georgia. In working to the
eastward I intended to make for the charted position of
*' Pagoda Rock," and verify or wash out its existence;
also, if possible, I wished to visit Bouvet Island.
It will be seen that throughout this projected route
we should have the winds to the best advantage, for
while working east we should be in the westerly belt,
which extends approximately from lat. 35° S. to lat.
60° S., whilst above these latitudes, on our return, we
should enter the belt of prevailing easterly winds.
CHAPTER VI
INTO THE SOUTH
WE left Leith Harbour on January 17th, and pro-
ceeded along the coast to Cooper Bay. Douglas
and Carr had gone there some days before to carry on
their geological examination of the island.
On arrival we found that they had set up a tent on
the beach and had built outside it a fireplace of stones.
For fuel they used driftwood, which lined the beach in
large quantities. Douglas came to meet us in the kayak,
a small skin-boat which had been presented to us by
Mr. Jacobsen. I lowered the surf-boat and went ashore.
Both Carr and he looked well, being very sunburnt and
fatter than when they left us. A meal was in process
of preparation in the fireplace, and when I saw the quan-
tity of food they were about to dispose of I felt satisfied
as to their health and the state of their appetites.
I wanted a supply of fresh meat to take with us on
the ship, for although we had no refrigerator on board,
there was no fear of the meat going bad in the low
temperatures of these regions. I sent Macklin and Marr
to catch and kill a dozen penguins, and went myself,
with Mcllroy, to shoot some skua gulls. I intended
taking a seal also, but found that Douglas, with consider-
able forethought, had already killed and cut one up.
The day was bright, with warm sunshine, turning
Cooper Bay, which I had previously visited under less
favourable circumstances, into a beautiful spot. Sea-
80
DRYGALSKI
-^.'r//f-<.^./.-^
Saddle
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sk.,>h .-...rt *
\
"v
LARSEX HARBOUR
"QUEST* «,>.s.l9il
ScaU of Yards
■"MP --:2>
CHART OF LARSEN HARBOUR
THE ENTRANCE TO LARSEN HARBOUR
Photo: Wilkins
a
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Z
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o
u
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o
u
O J
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as
Into the South 8i
birds of all sorts covered the rocks and flew overhead,
filling the air with raucous cries, which sounded, how-
ever, not unpleasant, fitting the wild environment. Seals
and sea-elephants were ashore in hundreds, lying lazily
on the shingle of the beach or in the hollows of the
tussock grass behind. Ringed and Gentoo penguins
strutted solemnly about like leisurely old gentlemen
taking the sea air. On the hills behind were large
rookeries where these quaint birds were gathered
together in thousands.
I had no difficulty in obtaining the necessary number
of skua gulls, and I saw that Macklin and Marr had
made a little heap of penguins close to the boat, Macklin
rejecting, with the discriminating care of one whose
staple diet they have formed for months, the old tough
birds and picking out the young and tender. Marr was
delighted with his new experiences, being particularly
fascinated with these almost human looking little
creatures.
So pleasant was the day that I was loth to tear
myself away.
We returned to the ship, where we prepared the birds
for the larder, and hung them, together with the meat,
from the mizen boom, the poop at the finish resembling
a butcher's shop.
Green, who had been before into the Antarctic and
had wintered with me on Elephant Island, came out of
his galley to regard with a professional eye this new
addition to his larder. I asked him if he had forgotten
how to cook seal and penguin meat, to which he replied,
" Not likely ! If I was to live to be a hundred, I would
not forget that."
We weighed anchor and proceeded to Larsen Har-
82 Shackleton's Last Voyage
hour, which is approached through Drygalski Fiord, a
long, narrow channel situated at the extreme south-
eastern end of South Georgia. The entrance, which is
very picturesque, lies between steep and high mountains.
As one nears the end it appears as if one is about to
charge a steep wall of snow-covered rock, but suddenly
the little opening of Larsen Harbour comes into view,
and one enters a wonderful little basin shut in on all
sides by steeply rising mountains and offering a secure
anchorage for small vessels. Across the entrance lies
a ledge of rocks from which grows a belt of kelp, where
the soundings gave a depth of 38 fathoms.
Douglas went ashore in his kayak to make a
geological examination of the place and bring away
some specimens of rock.
At daybreak on January i8th we made our final
departure from South Georgia, setting course to pass
close to Clerk Rocks. Douglas and Carr had reported
that whilst ascending the slopes behind Cooper Bay they
had seen what appeared to be a volcano in eruption.
They had taken a rough bearing of its direction, and
from their description generally we concluded that the
site of the phenomenon could only have been Clerk
Rocks. I was anxious, therefore, to visit them ; but the
day unfortunately turned out to be thick and misty, and
we were unable to get a good view of them. As every
day was now a matter of importance to us in our attempt
to push South, I did not delay in the hope that we might
effect a landing. From observations made by Worsley
and Jeffrey, their position as charted seems to be in-
correct, but as the thick weather prevented accurate
sight, their exact position cannot be definitely given.
We were now about to undertake the most difficult
fhoto: Reg. Haines
COMMANDER WILD
Photo: Dr. Macklin
A SMAI-L BERG
I' koto: n ilk ins
A CURIOUS "TOOTHED" BERG
Into the South 83
part of our enterprise, the plans of which I have indi-
cated in the preceding chapter.
I divided up the hands into three watches : In
my own — Mcllroy, Macklin and Carr; in Worsley's —
Wilkins, Douglas and Watts; in Jeffrey's — Dell,
McLeod and Marr. The Boy Scout had become a fine,
handy seaman, and developed an all-round usefulness
which made him a valuable member of the expedition.
The engineers, Kerr and Smith, kept watch and watch
about in spells of six hours. I had added, in the person
of Ross, to their staff in South Georgia, where a number
of Shetlanders are employed at the flensing. Young
and he acted as firemen, and Argles as trimmer. Green
and Naisbitt, who formed the galley staff, were, of
course, exempt from watch keeping.
At first we had misty weather, and soon encountered
a heavy swell in which the Quest rolled heavily. We
met numerous icebergs travelling in a north-easterly
direction — beautiful works of Nature passing slowly to
their doom.
Hundreds of sea-birds tailed in our wake, including
numbers of every species known to this part of the
world : albatross, cape pigeons, whale birds and every
kind of petrel, from the giant " Stinker " to the dainty,
ubiquitous Mother Carey's Chickens.
Thursday, January 19th, broke bright and clear.
We were surrounded on all sides by bergs, those in sight
numbering more than a hundred. Many of them were
flat topped, evidently pieces which had recently calved
from the Great Ice Barrier and floated out to sea. Others
were more irregular in shape, with pinnacles, buttresses,
and caves and tunnels through which the water rushed
with a roar. The imaginative could see in them a
84 Shackleton's Last Voyage
resemblance to all sorts of things; churches with spires,
castles with heavy ramparts, steamships, human profiles,
and the figures of every conceiyable kind of beast.
Some were stained with red-coloured mineral deposits,
blue bottom-mud and yellow and brown diatomaceous
material. A few sloped towards the sea at such an angle
as to enable penguins, all of them of the ringed variety,
to clamber up. Some of the groups of penguins thus
formed numbered as many as two or three hundred.
There was a high following sea, and the deeply
laden Quest wallowed in it heavily, dipping both gun-
wales and filling the waist with water, which rushed to
and fro with every roll. Smith was thrown off his feet
and swept violently across the deck, fetching up with
considerable force against the lee rail. He was much
bruised and shaken.
During the day a number of soundings were taken
with the Kelvin apparatus, but no bottom was found
with 300 fathoms of wire.
In the evening Worsley altered course to look at
what appeared to be a small half-submerged rock, but on
approach it proved to be a heavily stained piece of ice.
January 20th was another fine day. I saw Marr come
on deck wearing a fur cap, heavy sea-boots, and a belt
from which hung a ferocious-looking sheath knife. The
scrubby promise of a thick beard adorned his chin, and
I had the greatest difficulty in associating the kilted boy
who joined us in London with this tough-looking sailor
man. If Hussey had been there he would have sung,
" If only my mother could see me now ! " Indeed, I
would have liked to have had for a short while the use
of a magic carpet and been able to transfer him exactly
as he stood to the bosom of his family.
Into the South 85
Jeffrey, who had been confined to his cabin since
leaving Rio de Janeiro, returned to duty on this day.
We continued to pass through a sea filled with ice-
bergs, which in the sunshine stood out white and glisten-
ing against the blue-black of the sea. Worsley saw what
looked like a new island with high summit, but even as
he pointed it out a breeze flattened off its top, proving it
to be only a cloud. These little rebuffs on the part
of Nature have no influence upon Worsley, whose
enthusiasm is unconquerable.
In the afternoon we sighted a number of icebergs in
line, and a few minutes later Zavodovski Island showed
up. The bergs were evidently aground, most of them
having a distinct tide-mark and showing considerable
wear along the water-line. As we drew nearer we saw
that all those which were accessible were thickly covered
with ringed penguins, which showed the most marked
astonishment at our approach. There were many also
in the sea, and they came swimming towards us, uttering
their familiar " CI - a-a - k ! " Some of the bergs were
so steep that we wondered how the penguins ever
managed to get a footing on them. We passed one with
a side which sloped gradually to an edge some twenty
or thirty feet above water, against which the sea broke
heavily. A number of penguins were attempting a land-
ing, and we watched their efforts with interest. They
took advantage of the swell to leap out whilst the sea
was at its highest, often to fail and fall back with a
splash into the wash below; but they sometimes
succeeded in getting a footing in a crack in the ice.
They showed the greatest agility and skill in clambering
from one little foothold to another, and their attitude of
triumph when at last they gained the gentler slope and
86 Shackleton's Last Voyage
waddled off to join their companions in the group was
most amusing. These little creatures are so absurdly
human in every one of their aspects that one could watch
them for hours without tiring. Those of the party who
had not been previously in Antarctic regions were greatly
fascinated by them and laughed outright at their quaint
antics.
The island takes its name from Lieut. Zavodovski,
chief officer of the Vostok, of Bellingshausen's Expe-
dition, who landed in 1820. It is barren and snow
covered, except on the western side, which presents an
unattractive bare surface of rock. Bellingshausen
described this bare surface as being warm from volcanic
action, and says that the penguins found it an attractive
nesting-place. On that occasion the island presented
the appearance of an active volcano, with thick clouds
of steam belching from the summit. Owing to the low-
lying mist we could not see the top of the island, and
so were unable to gauge accurately the height, but from
general contour it seemed to be not more than 3,500
feet.
The coastline presents a rugged face of rock broken
here and there by glaciers which descend from the slopes
behind to finish abruptly above narrow beaches of black
sand. A red line of volcanic staining surrounds the
island. Generally speaking it is inaccessible, and there
are no good bays or anchorages for a ship. There are
places where a landing could be effected by boat, but at
no time would it be easy, for the rock faces rise sheer
from the sea and the beaches are shut off from the island
by the glaciers behind and laterally by steep cliffs.
Nevertheless, penguins are able to get ashore. On the
beaches were a number of the large and beautifully
Into the South 87
marked king penguins, whilst covering the slopes behind
were whole battalions of the ringed variety, forming
very large rookeries. I have seen larger rookeries than
these in one place only — Macquarie Island, which I
visited during the Mawson Expedition. There one can
look over square miles and never see a piece of ground
for the number of penguins of all varieties which collect
there.
On the southern side of Zavodovski Island are a
number of caves, from the mouths of which sulphurous
fumes were issuing in a thin reddish cloud. We could
feel their effects in a smarting sensation of the eyes,
nose and throat. It was noticed that the penguins did
not collect round the caves, but gave them a pretty
wide berth. Larsen, who explored this group in the
Undine in 1908, was overcome by these fumes whilst
attempting to land on this island, and became seriously
ill.
We made a running survey of the island and ob-
tained a number of soundings. Before leaving I took
the ship close to a berg which was thickly covered with
ringed penguins to enable Wilkins to get some cinema-
tograph pictures. To stimulate them into movement I
told Jeffrey to fire two or three detonators. The loud
reports caused the utmost consternation amongst them,
and, stretching their flippers, they rushed en masse for
the lower edge of the berg. Those in front were loth
to take to the water, which is not surprising, seeing the
difficulty they have in climbing back* again, but those
behind pressed them so hard that they were forced over
into the sea, and, as Kerr facetiously remarked, " It was
just as well that they could swim." Their attitude of
surprise and indignation was very amusing.
88 Shackleton's Last Voyage
We continued (Saturday, January 21st) to pass in-
numerable bergs. The sea was literally filled with them.
It is fortunate that in these latitudes there is compara-
tively little darkness at this time of the year, for at night
these bergs form the most unpleasant of companions and
necessitate a continuous and unremitting look-out. The
long swell rushes against them with a heavy surge, and
a collision with any one of them would prove a nasty
accident from which we would not be likely to escape
scot free, whilst the dislodgment of a heavy portion on
to our decks could have nothing but the most disastrous
results.
The Quest rolled like a log and the seas in the waist
rushed like a swollen flood from side to side, so that one
rarely passed about the ship without a wetting. The
water foamed over the tops of our sea boots and filled
them up. This was particularly annoying when going
to take over the watch, for one had then to endure the
discomfort of four hours on the bridge with wet feet,
which in this temperature is extremely unpleasant.
Before leaving England Sir Ernest Shackleton had
designed a weather-proof bridge, completely enclosed,
but with windows which could be opened up on all sides.
Owing to the strikes which occurred before our start,
skilled labour was not available, and the work done in
the building of it was so bad, and the windows and doors
were so ill-fitting, that it was quite impossible to exclude
draughts. Except that it was to some extent rain- and
snow-proof, we would have been much better off with an
open bridge protected with a canvas dodger. There was
always a strong draught along the floor, which made it
very hard to keep the feet warm, no matter how well
clothed and shod we might be. When the footgear
Into the South 89
became wetted the difficulty was increased, and in the
long night watches we often endured agonies from this
cause.
Macklin reported to me on the 21st that there were
fifteen inches of water in the hold. The ship had always
leaked, but hitherto the engine-room pumps had been
sufficient to keep down the water. I instituted a daily
pumping, which, as the hand pump was situated in the
waist amidst a rush of water, was no pleasant task for
those engaged in it.
I began to feel my responsibilities now, for each day
made it more abundantly clear to me that this trip was
to be anything but a picnic and demonstrated the fact
that the Quest was by no means an ideal ship for the
work. Often I was made to doubt the wisdom of the
undertaking, but, having put my hand to the plough,
there was to be no turning back.
This being Saturday night, we drank the time-
honoured toast of " Sweethearts and Wives," to which
some wag always added, " May they never meet ! '' On
such occasions as these I issued to each man who wanted
it a tot of whisky or rum. Rum was generally selected,
as being the stronger drink.
On Monday, January 23rd, we passed close to two
large and beautiful bergs, full of cracks and chasms,
with a number of caves of the deepest blue colour. This
appearance of blue in cavities surrounded by colourless
ice is a phenomenon for which physicists have not yet
offered a satisfactory explanation.
There is something about these huge bergs, bucking
and swaying in the long heavy swell, which always
attracts. One wonders at their age and where they have
come from. It is a pity that there is no way of marking
go Shackleton's Last Voyage
them. Worsley, ever inventive, and never at a loss for
a suggestion, proposes firing into them bombs filled with
permanganate of potash, or, better still, to have rifles
firing small projectiles, by which one could mark the
date. " Why not? " says he.
There is much difference of opinion regarding the
length of life of these bergs, some saying two or three
years, whilst others suggest that they last forty or more.
Much undoubtedly depends upon their movements. A
grounded berg is likely to exist for a long time, and I
have seen many, marked by the rise and fall of tide and
washed by the action of the sea, which had obviously
endured for many years. Those which do not go
aground drift about for varying periods till carried
eventually to the north; they meet their fate amongst
warm currents, which leave not a vestige of their
original selves. A berg floats with about seven-eighths
of its bulk below water, and is consequently more
susceptible to deep than to surface currents. I have
often seen them moving through pack at a rate of two
or three miles an hour, brushing aside the lighter ice in
their undeviating progress. In open water, too, I have
seen them moving up against strong winds at a similar
speed.
During our boat journey from the breaking-up
pack on the Endurance expedition we nearly came to
grief from this cause, a large berg of several hundred
yards in length almost jamming us against a line of floe
ice, and requiring all our efforts to pull free.
Worsley met with a slight accident on the 23rd.
While passing round the front of the deck-house he was
struck by the forestay-sail sheet block, and was hurled
across the deck. He picked himself up, with blood run-
Into the South 91
ning freely down his face, but the intensity of his impre-
cations relieved me from fear of a bad injury, and,
indeed, on examination it proved to be slight. He felt
a little hurt when someone asked him if he could not
do it again because there were several who had missed
the incident. I omit his reply.
Our daily mileage had proved disappointing up to
this point, and it became clear to me that we could not
hope to reach Bouvet Island and still be in time to enter
the ice this year. The coal consumption also proved
higher than I had anticipated. I decided, therefore, to
make a more southerly course to meet and enter the ice
in a position somewhere about 20° E. Long. On my
westward run I intended to cross the mouth of the Wed-
dell Sea, and attempt to examine and sound the charted
position of " Ross's Appearance of Land," probably
call at Elephant Island to obtain sand for ballast and
blubber for fuel, and proceed to Deception Island for
coal for the return to South Georgia.
After a long spell of bad weather, on January 25th
we at last experienced a change for the better, the day
breaking bright and clear, the water a deep blue and the
icebergs a dazzling white. The sea was comparatively
smooth, and the Quest behaved moderately well.
I seized the chance to get on with an amount of
work which had been difficult during the bad weather.
Worsley, Dell and Carr overhauled the Lucas sounding
machine and fixed a roll of wire all ready for a running
out. When this was done, I set Carr to blocking some
of the scupper holes, in the hope of keeping a drier deck.
Macklin, assisted by Marr and Green, spent a busy
morning in squaring up the hold, and there was work
for everyone in one way or another. Mcllroy and I
92 Shackleton's Last Voyage
baled out our cabins and put the wet gear out to
dry/
The ship was found to be taking more water, Macklin
reporting that it had reached the level of the kelson, and
I had to institute longer spells at the pumps, each taking
from one and a half to two hours to pump her dry.
I got Mcllroy to cut my hair, after which I acted as
barber for him, and for Kerr and Worsley also. They
were no half cuts, but good convict crops ! Wilkins,
with a view to stimulating the laggard hairs on his
crown to more active growth, shaved the top of his head,
and looked like a monk. He was growing a beard, as
were a number of the men. McLeod's was the most
flourishing; Dell and Macklin each showed a respect-
able growth, and Kerr, Smith, Young, Argles and Watts
gave a promise of better things. Marr, not to be out-
done, was also making the attempt, but so far could
show only a stubble, which gave him rather a ferocious
appearance.
In the afternoon Worsley took a sounding, with the
unsought assistance of all the men on board, who
crowded round with a great willingness to help, but
who, like the cooks at the broth, only impeded things.
Four miles of wire were reeled out without finding
bottom, but, this being the first time we had used the
Lucas machine on this trip, it was probably incorrect.
When it came to winding up, the machine ran well, but
when only about half the reel had been taken in the
wire broke, and we lost the sinkers and the snapper
(which is used to bring up specimens from the sea
^ On leaving South Georgia, I had moved into Sir Ernest's cabin, and
Mcllroy took my old one. Both cabins opened on to the waist of the ship, and
were consequently frequently flooded with the heavy seas which rushed to and
fro there.
Into the South 93
bottom). From this time forward Dell took charge of
the sounding machine, and under his management it ran
without a hitch. It was often a cold and tedious job, but
he took the greatest interest in the work, and enabled
Worsley to get some excellent results.
Whilst the sounding was in process a mass of pul-
taceous material floated past the ship, some of which we
collected. Macklin examined a small portion of it under
a microscope, and reported that it was composed of
feathers in a state of decomposition. Its occurrence was
hard to explain, but Wilkins thought it may have come
from one of the carnivorous mammals of these seas : a
sea leopard or a killer, which had swallowed a number
of penguins or other birds, and afterwards vomited the
indigestible portions of them, just as our sledge dogs
used to vomit bones which they had eaten.
Naisbitt asked me if he might start a ship's magazine,
to which I assented.
I saw an Antarctic petrel, the first I had seen this
trip. The presence of these birds usually indicates
proximity of ice.
The fine weather did not last long, for the next day
the wind and seas increased, and the Quest took full
advantage of the excuse to behave as badly as ever.
We encountered fewer bergs, but were never out of
sight of them altogether. One which lay two or three
miles to starboard had a very peculiar appearance,
closely resembling a sailing ship under canvas. Worsley
examined it long and attentively through binoculars, and
exclaimed, " A sailing vessel ! " I cast some doubt on
the probability, but after a second look he cried
excitedly, " It is a sailing vessel; I can see her top-
sail yard ! Let us go and talk to her ! " A gleam of
94 Shackleton's Last Voyage
sunshine lighting upon the " topsail yard " dispelled the
illusion. I wonder what ship he expected to see down
there !
An extract from Marr's diary on this date gives an
interesting sidelight :
A fairly strong sea was running when we came on
deck for " the middle," but this did not deter us from
our usual occupation in the night watches, i.e. the
consumption of food and drink. Indeed, it must
appear that our watch is very hungry, but it is not so.
This is merely our very effective method of passing
the four long hours on the bridge.
It was customary for the engine-room staff to make
a hot drink once a watch. The galley fire was always
allowed to go out at night because of the necessity for
economy in coal consumption, and the stokers used to
boil the water in a tin on the furnace fires. The result
was that there was often some difficulty in diagnosing
the nature of the concoction, but under circumstances
like this one could not be over particular. We used to
turn to each other, saying : " Well, at any rate it is hot
and wet."
We had two casualties on January 30th. Douglas,
whilst skipping to keep himself warm, sprained his
ankle, and had to take to his bunk. Worsley also came
to grief in a much more serious way. Shortly after
leaving South Georgia I had instructed Macklin to pro-
vision each of our three boats for thirty days. As the
surf-boat was likely to be in frequent use, I had the
provisions moved from her and divided equally amongst
the port and starboard life-boats, the total in each weigh-
ing not less than a quarter of a ton. I decided to swing
f^
KILLHKS RISING TO 'BLOW
THE QUEST PUSHING THROUGH THIN ICE
rhotos: iytlKins
Into the South 95
the port life-boat outboard on her davits, both in order
to have her the more ready to lower away and to give
us a little more sorely needed space on the bridge deck.
The sea was smooth, but there was a long swell running
which caused the Quest to give an occasional heavy roll.
We were in the midst of proceedings, and I had got
into the boat the better to direct operations, when sud-
denly a guy fixing the forward davit carried away; the
heavily laden boat took charge, swinging inboard and
out and in a fore and aft direction with the swing of the
unsecured davits. It was all I could do to hold on,
for I had been steadying myself with the after davit
head, which now swung in a semicircle. Many times I
felt as if I must be flung headlong into the sea. All
hands gathered round to regain control, but with the
strain the after davit guy also parted. The boat swung
aft, sweeping Wilkins and Macklin off the bridge deck
on to the poop, where they met with no damage, and,
surging forward again, caught Worsley and drove him
with tremendous force against the after wall of the
bridge house. The impact was heavy. I heard a cry
and a crash of splintering wood as the wall gave way.
I felt sure Worsley was killed. Mcllroy immediately
went to his assistance, whilst the rest of us, after an
effort, secured the boat and lowered her on to the skids
again.
Worsley appeared at first to be terribly damaged.
His face turned a deathly grey and was covered with
perspiration, and he could scarcely breathe. We carried
him to his cabin, where the surgeons made a careful
examination. He had sustained severe damage to his
chest and broken a number of ribs. His whole body
was covered with bruises and abrasions, and he was
96 Shackleton's Last Voyage
suffering severely from shock. The doctors reported
his condition as serious, but thought that the outlook
was favourable unless signs of internal haemorrhage
appeared. It was a great relief to feel that I had with
me as surgeons two reliable and experienced men.
Worsley had undoubtedly to thank the workmen who
had this particular job in hand for his life, for had the
bridge house been of more solid workmanship and shown
greater resistance to the impact, he must infallibly have
been crushed to death.
On this same day we reached the charted position of
Pagoda Rock. It was first reported by Lieut. T. E. L.
Moore, in the Pagoda, in 1845, in the following words :
In the afternoon of the same day (Thursday),
January 30th, 1845, we fell in with a most singular
rock, or rock on an iceberg. It appeared to be a mass
of rock about 1,600 tons, and the top was covered with
ice, and did not appear to have any visible motion,
with a heavy sea beating over it. It had a tide mark
round it. We tried for soundings with 200 fathoms,
and the first time we fancied we had struck the
ground, but before we could try again we had drifted
some distance off. We could not send a boat or beat
the ship up against the breeze that was then blowing.
In our position, lat. 60° 11' S. and 4^ 47' E. long.,
however, there was no sign of it, though we made a
traversing cruise, and a sounding which showed a depth,
of 2,980 fathoms gave no indication of shoaling in the
vicinity.
It is rather remarkable, however, that towards even-
ing we sow a very curious-looking berg, very dark green
in colour and heavily stained with some earthy material.
LOOSE OPEN PACK
Photos : Dr. Macklin
LOOSE PACK ICE. WITH THE SEA RAPIDLY FREEZING OVER
Into the South 97
We altered course to pass close to it, and examined it
carefully. It was an old, weather-beaten berg which
had evidently capsized. Our meeting with it in this
particular spot was a curious coincidence.
On the first day of February the maiden number of
Expedition Topics appeared under the editorship of
Naisbitt. It was got up simply, consisting of a number
of sheets of typewritten matter, chiefly on the humorous
side, and containing a sly hit at most of the company.
There were also some clever drawings. Like every-
thing else that created an interest it was of value just
then when the daily life in those cold grey stormy seas
was necessarily very monotonous.
On February 2nd we had a strong gale from the
south-east, during which I was compelled to take in sail
and heave to — very disappointing, as we needed every
mile we could make to the eastward. The Quest be-
haved in the liveliest possible manner, and everything
that was not tightly lashed took charge. A bookcase in
my cabin had battens three inches wide placed along
the shelves, but they proved useless to keep in place
the books, which hurled themselves to the floor, where
they were much damaged by the seas which found their
way in and swished up and down with every roll.
On deck everything had been lashed up and tightly
secured, but in the galley pots and pans took charge and
defied all Green's efforts to make them remain on the
stove. All kinds of utensils escaped into " Gubbins
Alley," where they were carried up and down by the
wash of water, whilst Green splashed knee deep in pur-
suit. As he recovered one lot so another leapt away,
regardless of his imprecations, till, some helpers coming
along, order was once more restored.
98 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Naisbitt, whose work compelled him to pass fre-
quently between the wardroom and the galley, often with
both hands full, had a very trying time. At meals we
had the greatest difficulty in keeping things on the table,
and we had to hold plates, cups, etc., in our hands,
balancing them against the roll of the ship. We had to
abandon all idea of comfort and wait patiently till the
rage of the elements should abate.
During this time of bad weather Worsley suffered
very much, for, with the violent rolling, he could get
no rest in his bunk. He improved, however ; the doctors
pronounced him out of danger, and he spoke of soon
getting up.
Macklin reported another fifteen inches of water in
the hold — it was obvious that it would be necessary to
increase the daily spells of pumping. All hands took
to this unpleasant and monotonous job very cheerfully,
saying that it was good exercise ! Indeed, there is not
much else that can be said for it.
In lat. 65° 7' S. and 15° 21' E. long, we entered, on
February 4th, what appeared to be the edge of very open
pack, which lay in several strips and bands of light,
loosely packed ice, with large open spaces of water
between. I made my course due south and pushed
into it. For some time I had doubts as to whether
it was the real pack or streamers carried north by the
late south-easterly gale. The sky to the south was very
indefinite, and from the crow's nest the same conditions
of loose ice and open water extended as far as the eye
could reach. The two " signs " which one looks for in
the sky are " ice-blink " and " water sky." A sky with
ice-blink presents near the horizon a hard white appear-
ance which indicates the proximity of close pack, ice
Into the South 99
barrier, or snow-covered land. A " water sky " is a
dark patch in a lighter sky, which indicates open water
below the horizon. In each case when these skies are
well marked they are definitely of value, but it requires
much experience to gauge accurately the meaning of
some of the more indefinite appearances, and conclusions
too hastily drawn often prove erroneous.
Whilst we were at sea I had watched the petrels
which followed in our wake attempting to come to rest
on the water, but breaking seas always drove them up
again. I was interested to note that as soon as we
reached the pack they flew forward and came to rest
on a piece of ice, where they preened their feathers and
settled down on their breasts.
The ice had a wonderfully settling effect upon the
sea, deadening all but the heavier swells. The Quest
became more comfortable than she had been for a long
time, and at lunch we dispensed with the fiddles. This
she would not tolerate, and a sudden roll swept every-
thing to the floor. Later in the day the belts of ice
became broader and the pools of water much smaller.
There could be no doubt that this was the real pack ice
and that the most strenuous part of our work was now
to begin. Quoting from a diary :
Now the little Quest can really try her mettle.
What is in store for us.? Will the pack, as variable
in its moods as the open sea, prove friendly or will it
rise in its wrath to punish man's temerity in thus
bringing to the attack so small a craft.? Before this
effort the smallest ship to make a serious attempt to
penetrate the heavy Antarctic pack was the Endure
ance, and she lies crushed and broken many fathoms
100 Shackleton's Last Voyage
deep in the Weddell Sea. We are but half her size !
Shall we escape, or will the Quest go to join the ships
in Davy Jones's Locker, and the queer deep-sea fish
nose about amongst her broken spars? We are not
in the least pessimistic, but the man who blinds himself
to the possibility is a fool.
My sense of responsibility was growing daily, for
though I always welcomed the suggestions of my senior
officers I realized that on me alone must devolve the
final decision in every plan and in every movement. This
was my fifth expedition — nearly half my life has been
spent in Antarctic exploration — and every accumulated
year of experience has taught me more and more how
much in this work we are the playthings of chance. Ex-
perience counts a great deal, of course, but no amount
of experience, care or skill can be of much avail against
prolonged and overwhelming pressure. Yet in those
first days in the ice, as I stood on the bridge and
looked down on the decks I saw amongst my men
nothing but elation. Carr, Douglas and others who
saw the ice for the first time were fascinated by it, and
amongst the old hands there was obvious pleasure at
again meeting the pack. Old McLeod, veteran of many
expeditions, said to Mcllroy : '' Here we are home again !
Doesn't it do you good to get back ! " Even Query was
affected with the general air of uplift, and with paws on
gunwale gazed with twitching nostrils at this new pheno-
menon. Nor could I long resist a similar feeling, for
as I gazed south over the ice, with the cold, keen air
in my nostrils, I, too, felt pleased and elated, glad of a
tough problem to tackle and rejoicing in the long
odds.
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Into the South loi
We soon began to meet old acquaintances in the
form of crab-eater seals which, wakened from sleep on
the floe, turned a curious eye in our direction and,
scratching themselves the while with their queer hand-
like flippers, pondered drowsily on the strange pheno-
menon which had come amongst them. Most of them
seemed satisfied with their scrutiny, treating us as of no
particular importance, and rolled over to sleep again. With
their light silvery coats these are the most elegant of the
southern seals and also the most active. They are char-
acteristic of the pack, being found in large numbers
about its free edge, where they obtain their living from
the small Crustacea of these regions, eufhausice and
amphipods. These small creatures live on the diatoms
of which the Antarctic seas are so rich, and which often
become embedded in the floe ice, which is stained brown
or greenish-brown by their presence. Eufhausice re-
semble small shrimps, and the amphipods are very like
the sandhoppers of home beaches, but redder in colour.
Whalers speak of them collectively as whale food, for
they form the staple diet not only of the crab-eaters but
of most of the Antarctic whales. It is an extraordinary
thing that so large an animal as the whale should depend
for its existence upon so small a creature, especially
when one considers the millions necessary to make one
meal. The side of natural history which interests me
most is the consideration of animal habits, mode of life
and source of food. There is something intensely fas-
cinating about this study, but I confess to a lack of
enthusiasm when it comes to a question of minute differ-
ences in structure and classification of species.
The ordinary whale has a gullet so small that one
can scarcely pass one's fist into it, and no whale could
102 Shackleton's Last Voyage
certainly ever have swallowed Jonah. The animal
referred to in the Bible story is no doubt the Orca
gladiator, which, though commonly known as the Killer
whale, differs considerably in many features from the
true whale. It is much better referred to by the name
Killer only. It is smaller than the larger varieties of
true whale, but it has immense jaws and a wide gullet,
and lives not on whale food but on seals and penguins,
and it is conceivable that it has on occasions accom-
modated a man ; though whether it ever let one go again
is a different matter. The killer is certainly an evil-
looking monster. Before we had entered deeply into
the pack we saw numbers of them gliding about us,
driven smoothly forward by almost imperceptible move-
ments of their powerful flukes, the downward strokes of
which produce small whirlpools on the surface of the
water. One could mark their progress by watching
these whirlpools. Every now and then they rise to
breathe, for they are not fish but mammals, and exhale
a spout of fine vapour which in the distance looks like
water. It is dangerous to cross leads of young ice whilst
killers are about, for they are able by charging upwards
from below to break through considerable thicknesses
with their heads. The round holes produced in this way
are quite common, and one frequently sees their evil
heads and wicked little eyes appear suddenly above the
surface, scattering fragments of ice in a wide circle.
When sledging along newly frozen leads, it is customary
to keep close in to solid ice, and when a crossing is
necessary it is made as rapidly as possible.
By February 5th there was a certain amount of day-
light all night, and we were not held up on account of
darkness. The ice had increased all the time in density
Into the South 103
and thickness, and at times it was all we could do to
push ahead. Already I began to feel the need of greater
engine power, though the small size of the ship made
her very handy to manoeuvre, and we were able to dodge
and squeeze past where a bigger ship would require to
push and ram. For the man at the wheel the spell was no
longer two hours of monotony, but a period of hard work
for which he shed his bulky garments, finding all the
warmth he required in the exercise entailed. It was
only when we entered the leads that we could keep a
steady course, and usually the commands, " Port !
Steady ! Starboard ! " etc., followed each other in
rapid succession as we turned and twisted and wriggled
our way ahead.
Worsley appeared again to-day. This evergreen
youth of fifty years certainly made a rapid recovery, for
I did not think when I saw him after his accident that
he would be up so soon. Although a very good patient,
he chafed so much at his confinement to bed that Macklin
thought it better to let him out of his bunk, taking, how-
ever, the precaution to strap and bandage his injured
parts in such a way that he could not do himself much
harm, and was unable to make any attempt to climb aloft
— which is the first thing he would have wished to do !
He was keenly anxious to take his watch, and I must
confess I was looking forward to his return to duty, for
Jeffrey and I had been doing " watch and watch "
alternately, and I had to be frequently on deck during
my watch below, which under the arduous circumstances
was a heavy strain.
I kept a keen look out for a convenient floe with seals
on it, for I was anxious to obtain fresh meat. Our food
stores included an ample and varied supply of all foods,
104 Shackleton's Last Voyage
with the exception of meat, lor which we were prepared
" to live on the country." Seal meat is quite palatable
when one is used to it, and has the advantage over tinned
stuff of being fresh. It is also a valuable antiscorbutic,
and I was relying on its regular consumption to prevent
the onset of scurvy.
Sighting a good solid floe with three seals on it, I put
the ship alongside and shot them all with my heavy rifle.
I went over on to the floe with Macklin to bleed them,
which done, they were hoisted aboard, and Mcllroy,
Dell and Macklin flensed and cut them up. The
blubber went to the bunkers to eke out our supply of
coal. Practically the whole of the meat of the seal can
be used for eating; whilst the liver, kidneys and heart
make very dainty fare. Fried seal's brain is a dish that
can hardly be excelled anywhere in the world. The
seal's brain is large and well developed, and when shoot-
ing these animals I always make a point of aiming at the
neck just behind the skull so as not to spoil the brain
for cooking. There is quite an art in removing the brain,
and the heads were usually handed over to Macklin
and Mcllroy, who took them out complete and unbroken.
Whilst the flensing was going forward Worsley seized
the opportunity to take a sounding, finding it lat. 66°
12' S. and 16° 21' E. long., 2,330 fathoms of water.
On February 6th we continued pushing on through
fairly heavy pack. Often the Quest was brought to a
stop by heavy pieces of ice across her bows, which she
was powerless to move or break up. When this occurred
we backed down the lane formed in our wake, where her
short length usually enabled her to turn, and getting
her nose inserted between two floes, we pushed ahead
with all the power the engines could give us till she
Into the South 105
finally worried through. So tar we had not been held
up for any considerable time.
Macklin reported another fifteen inches of water in
the hold, requiring an extra spell at the pumps to clear.
There can be no doubt that the continual bumping and
jarring of the ship against the ice caused a starting of
the timbers which had then no chance to settle and swell.
Everybody was in wonderful health and spirits, and
appetites were keen. For lunch on that day we had
the seal brains taken the day before ; they were delicious.
All hands took to the seal meat, with the exception of
Jeffrey and Carr. Carr tasted it and said that it pro-
duced a sickly feeling, but with the former it was a case
of pure prejudice, for he would not even taste it, and pre-
ferred to live on what else might be going. Stefansson,
in his books, dilates upon the theory that men who m
their normal lives have been used to all sorts and varieties
of food take more readily to kinds which they are ex-
periencing for the first time than those whose dietary
has been more monotonous and composed of much the
same thing day after day and week after week. That
this is very true there can be no doubt, but it does not
hold in the case of Jeffrey and Carr, for out of the whole
party I doubt if there was anyone more used to the
highly faked and varied dishes which the modern chef
succeeds in producing. Hunger is a wonderful sauce
and will break down most prejudices. Those of us who
accompanied Sir Ernest Shackleton on his previous ex-
pedition lived entirely on seal and penguin meat for
eleven months, and except that we were thin at the time
of rescue as a result of not having enough of it, we were
otherwise healthy and fit and had no sign of scurvy.
Stefansson, in speaking of scurvy, attributes his free-
io6 Shackleton's Last Voyage
dom from it to eating his meat raw or " rare done," and
states definitely that this is the secret of preventing and
curing scurvy, whatever the food may be. On the occa-
sion to which I have referred we always cooked our meat,
except when circumstances or the exigencies of the
moment did not permit of it and when we were short
of fuel.
Nature has providentially arranged that most of the
animals of south polar regions, for example the seals,
provide in addition to meat the fuel necessary to cook it
in the form of blubber. It is true that the use of heat in
cooking meat does very slightly destroy the antiscorbutic
principle, but when the consumption is sufficiently large
this factor can be neglected. Much depends upon the
method of cooking, for a more thorough investigation of
the subject shows that the detrimental influence is not
heat but oxidization. It is also stated that scurvy may
be cured by eating meat which has gone bad. It is pos-
sible that a few isolated cases may have recovered in spite
of the additional intoxication, but this teaching must be
regarded as a most dangerous one. The subject is one
of the greatest importance to explorers, for scurvy has
caused the failure of many well-found expeditions. I
cannot enter more fully into it here. The investigation
of scurvy and other food deficiency diseases is at present
occupying the minds of the medical profession, much
new knowledge is being brought to light, and it is prob-
able that the next few years will show great advances.
I am greatly opposed to the making of generalizations
based upon one or two isolated observations by writers
with little or no knowledge of the fundamental facts;
they are of little value for guidance and are apt to
prove misleading.
Into the South 107
Query was in great spirits at this time, never
having been in better condition since we left England;
his coat was thick and bushy, and his tail made a fine
brush. He was really a most handsome dog. He be-
came a thorough ship's dog, and climbed all over the
place. Wilkins fixed a camera case to the front of the
deck-house, and Query discovered uia it a way to
the top. So delighted was he with his new discovery
that he ran up and down just for the joy of doing it.
All day long he pestered one to play with him, bringing
in his mouth a stick or tin or a lump of coal, or even a
potato looted from the galley, which he wished thrown
for him to fetch. Of this game he never tired, and no
matter where one threw the object, he searched until it
was found, when he brought it back, calling one's atten-
tion to the fact by a short bark or a dig in the calves with
his nose.
Another game which he was very fond of was to
drop things from the deck-house on to the head of
someone standing below, whose share in the game was
to return the thing dropped so that he could do it again.
He was greatly excited by a seal which followed the
ship and whenever we were stopped by floes rose
high out of the water alongside us as though trying to
come aboard. Possibly it regarded us as a strangely
elusive and inaccessible piece of land. Up to now we
had not seen any penguins in the pack.
On coming on deck at 4.0 a.m. on February 7th I
discovered that during Jeffrey's watch the ship had
entered a cul-de-sac and that further progress was im-
possible. From the crow's nest I could see nothing but
dense pack stretching away to the southward as far as
the eye could reach, with no sign of a water sky beyond
io8 Shackleton's Last Voyage
it. To the east and west the same conditions prevailed,
and there was no hope of working the ship in any
direction except that in which we had come. I therefore
decided to stay where we were for a day (lat. 67° 40' S.
and 17^ 6^ E. long), and if there was no sign of opening
of the ice at the end of that time to retrace my steps
and look for open leads farther to the west.
There were a number of seals within reach which I
determined to collect, and so putting the ship alongside
a suitable floe I sent off some of the men to kill and bring
them aboard. They secured nine altogether, far more
than we required for meat, but I wanted the blubber
to help out the coal supply. We took for the larder,
therefore, only the dainties, such as the brains,
kidneys, livers and hearts, and the choicest pieces of
flesh, which are the undercuts from the inside of the
ribs.
We saw that day the first emperor penguin of the trip
standing solitary, as is the wont of this species, upon a
floe. Wilkins secured it as a specimen. The emperors
are the most stately of all the penguins and have the
finest markings. The king penguin is more brightly
coloured, but the emperor has the more delicate shades
which merge gradually into one another. Seen on the
floe in bright sunshiiie they have a really beautiful
appearance.
If approached slowly they make no attempt to run
away, but may even take a few sedate steps forward to
meet the stranger. When within a few paces they stop
and commonly make a profound bow, just as if they were
greeting one's arrival. If approached quickly and sud-
denly they take alarm and retire, first of all upon their
feet; but if hustled they drop upon their bellies and
Photo : Dr. Macklin
COMMANDER WILD AT THE MASTHEAD
PUSHING SOUTH THROUGH HEAVY PACK
I
Photos: Dr. Ma:klin
THE QUEST PLOUGHING THROUGH HEAVY ICE PACK
Into the South 109 4
using both feet and flippers, sledge themselves along at
a considerable speed. Seen from behind they look like
gigantic beetles, and there is something about this mode
of progression which is provocative of laughter. I have
noticed this when I have been showing pictures upon the
cinema screen, the audience invariably breaking into
laughter when it occurs.
This species is found only in the far south, and has
i the peculiarity of nesting during the winter. The term
* " nesting " may be misleading, for they do not make any
nests but lay their egg (only one egg is laid by each bird)
upon the snow surface. Both male and female birds
take turns in hatching out. They have a small depres-
sion on the foot into which the egg is wriggled by means
of the beak. They are able to move about carrying the
egg, and as Sir Ernest Shackleton used to say, " they
act both as a cradle and a perambulator." When they
wish to transfer the egg from one to another they stand
belly to belly and indulge in a vast amount of wriggling ;
but in the process the egg is often dropped on to the ice
and has to be wriggled on again from there. Two of
the most marked characteristics of penguins are their
patience and tenacity of purpose, both of which are
extraordinary.
A few days before we entered the cul-de-sac Dell
killed the South Georgia pig which was presented to
us by Mr. Hansen, of Leith Harbour. It proved excel-
lent eating and a pleasant change from seal meat. The
head remained, and as it would make a meal for only
one of the messes, we agreed to gamble to decide which
should have it. Kerr was deputed to represent us, but
lost to the after-mess. Even such small incidents as this
attracted an interest just then.
no Shackleton's Last Voyage
A sounding taken on this day (February 7th) showed
2,356 fathoms in position lat. 67° 40' S. and 17° 6' E.
long.
At 5.0 A.M. on the following day the ice had shown
no signs of opening, so I decided to turn back and look
for a more open route to the east or west. We steamed
north until noon, when, not caring to expend coal in
going away from our objective, I gave orders to reduce
steam, and proceeded under sail. The wind was
southerly and of moderate strength. I gathered in this
way some idea of what ice navigation meant in the days
before the introduction of the steam engine. Progress,
in spite of favourable winds, was slow, but I was sur-
prised at the effect of a long-continued steady pressure
against floes, some of them of quite considerable weight.
They gave way slowly before our bows, and the Quest
slipped of her own will (for she would not answer her
helm) into the cracks between them and slowly wedged
her way through.
We were now so deep in the pack that there was no
appreciable swell, and the Quest was consequently
steady. I continued the operation which we had been
compelled to give up before, and swung out the port
life-boat, Worsley being a spectator only. This time
there was no accident.
Worsley now started to go on the bridge and keep a
watch, though of course he was compelled to take things
very quietly, at any rate in so far as his movements were
concerned. Quiet in other respects his watch certainly
was not, for members of it carried on long-continued,
and often argumentative, dialogues, usually at the top
of their voices. This was especially the case with one
of them, and many times I have leapt on deck with a
Into the South iii
sense of impending danger, wakened by shouting that
proved to be the most trivial of remarks.
The weather was fair during the day, with a moder-
ate southerly wind, no sunshine, and occasional snow
squalls. At 7.30 p.m. we had made thirty-five miles to
the northward. This was all to the bad and a bit dis-
appointing. However, we hoped for a change before
long. Seals appeared on the floe in quantity during
the day and also a number of emperor penguins stand-
ing, as usual, stately and alone.
Killers were about and a large number of birds —
Antarctic petrels, Wilson's petrels, and a few pretty pure
white snow petrels.
During the night (February 9th) our luck changed
and we were able to make southerly again. Through-
out the morning we met loose pack and a number of
leads of open water, so that by 12.0 noon we were only
eleven miles north of the previous position. We had
the same conditions till 4.0 p.m., when we met with dense
pack. From the crow's nest, however, I saw " water
sky " to the southward and determined to push on to
the utmost ability of the ship. We progressed very
slowly and only with the greatest difficulty. It took
much hard steaming and consumption of valuable coal
for the Quest to make any impression on this heavy floe.
The evening of this day was fine, beautiful and still,
the sort that takes hold of one and sends mind and
memory wandering far afield. There was not a ripple
on the small pools between the floes, in which were
numbers of small eufhausice swimming about. Four or
five seals came about the ship and accompanied us,
rubbing themselves against the sides and popping their
heads out to regard us with large eyes of a beautiful soft
112 ShackIeton*s Last Voyage
brown colour. They were evidently in a playful mood.
On the ice seals are sluggish and very helpless, but in
the water they are wonderful, and their swimming move-
ments are most graceful as they dart about twisting and
turning and occasionally rising to look round.
Killers were about earlier in the day, but no penguins.
An ugly-looking sea-leopard put his head out of the
water and gazed malignantly over the edge of the floe.
In a pool at some distance from the ship I caught sight
of a black mass rising and falling, and through my
binoculars witnessed what appeared to be a fight between
two sea-leopards. One of them leapt continually from
the water to a height of some six feet, and the water was
churned to a mass of foam. Suddenly it all ceased.
What tragedy was enacted on that perfect evening ? On
such a night, amidst the pure whiteness of one's sur-
roundings, it was hard to realize that in the struggle
for existence the unrelenting laws of Nature must
hold.
We passed close alongside a floe with a seal on it.
I shot it; Macklin jumped off on to the floe and made
fast a line, scarcely taking time to stop we hauled it
aboard and proceeded on our way. Looking back I saw
the surface of the snow smirched with its blood. So
Man passed leaving a red stain; and yet but a few
moments before I had been moralizing on " Nature red
in tooth and claw."
Very few birds were about, with the exception of
snow petrels, a few Antarctic petrels and a single young
Dominican gull.
We were pushing on, but the prospect at the moment
was not promising. From aloft there was nothing to be
seen but ice closely packed and stretching as far as the
>
^
THE QUEST AT HEK FARTHEST SOUTH
Photes: Wilkins
JEFFREY AND DOUGLAS TAKING OBSERVATIONS FOR MAGNETIC DIP
I
4
HKAVY PRESSED-UF PACK IGE-THE QUEST IN THE DISTANCE
^.
ii^^ *'^^X,mZ2jt>^^i
Photos: Dr. Macklin
COMMANDER WILD AND WORSLEY EXAMINING A NEWLY FORMED "LEAD *'
IN THE PACK ICE
Into the South 113
eye could reach in all directions. I distrust fine weather
in the pack; it usually means lowered temperature, close
ice and little open water.
February loth opened as a beautiful morning, with
bright sunshine. The ice was white and sparkling and
the water a deep blue. The air was keen and crisp, and
all hands revelled in the improved weather conditions.
Less so myself, however, for I feared what was por-
tended. I prefer damp misty weather in the pack, for
that means the presence of a considerable amount of
open water amongst the ice and better conditions for
navigating, in spite of poor visibility.
The number of seals that accompanied us increased
to twenty or more. They refused to leave us, though
they occasionally took fright and dashed off with a swirl
of water. Seen from aloft a school of seals is a wonder-
ful sight. There was evidently something on the ship's
side which had an attraction for them, for they seized
the chance of every stop to rise out of the water and
nibble at frozen pieces of ice which had formed just
above the water-line. The ice on the patent anchors
which projected from the hawse holes two or three feet
above the surface especially attracted them, and they
collected in clusters of five or six to nibble at it.
In the early morning the pack was composed of
dense, heavy old floes, much broken up and bearing the
remains of pressure ridges through which progress was
very slow. At 7.30 a.m. we entered a lead with surface
just freezing over, which offered little resistance to the
ship. It was literally full of killers, which crossed and
recrossed our bows and " blew " all about us. Our seal
friends did not accompany us into the lead, for which
the presence of the killers was no doubt a good and
114 Shackleton's Last Voyage
sufficient reason. The crab-eaters seem to have no fear
of them whilst in closely set pack with only small pools
of water between the floes, but one rarely sees crab-eaters
in larger stretches of water. Occasionally they have been
seen in large numbers travelling at high speed. Hurley,
the photographer of the last expedition, was able to get
a photographic record of them passing close to the ship,
the number being so great that the surface of the water
was lashed to foam. That they are hunted by the killers
is beyond doubt, for one frequently sees them shoot out
of water and land with a heavy wallop on a piece of ice,
look all round and bump themselves violently along,
finally disappearing with a dive into the water again.
This differs largely from their ordinary method of land-
ing when they wish to rest. In this case they may be
seen first of all rising high out of the water and looking
over the edge of the floe, obviously noting its nature,
and searching for a shelter from the wind. They land
with the same heavy flop, but show none of the excite-
ment when up.
On one occasion at my base in Queen Mary's
Land during the Mawson Expedition I was stand-
ing on an ice foot with Mr. Harrison, my biologist,
when I saw a killer actually attack a seal which,
however, escaped and effected a landing on the ice
foot. It was bleeding profusely and was in a very
exhausted condition. On close examination we found
six large wounds, all of which had penetrated the blubber
to the flesh, none of them less than three inches deep.
At first I was inclined to put the animal out of its misery,
but my biologist asked me to let it remain so that we
might see whether or not it would recover. It lost an
amazing amount of blood, which melted its way into the
■%;
THE QUEST PUSHING NORTH THROUGH RAPIDLY
FREEZING ICE
Into the South 115
ice beneath, but on the fourth day it had recovered
sufficiently to enter the sea again. Nearly all seals bear
the scars of old wounds in vertical strokes down their
sides. Wilkins collected a number of skins in which
these scars were more extensive than usual, and prepared
them for sending back as specimens to the British
Museum.
The water in the hold had increased so much by now
that it required four hours of hard pumping to reduce.
It was hard, monotonous work.
In the afternoon we encountered the first Adelie
penguin which we had seen on this expedition. It was
standing alone on a flat piece of floe, and at sight of us
evinced the most marked surprise, looking at us first with
one eye and then the other, and finally started towards
us at a run. Its waddling gait resembled that of a fat
old white-waistcoated gentleman in a desperate hurry.
Many times it fell forward, but, picking itself up, hurried
on till, reaching the edge of the floe, it tumbled rather
than dived into the water. In a few seconds it shot out,
to alight upright upon another floe where it continued
the chase, but by this time we were drawing away and
he gave it up, uttering a last " Cl-a-a-k," as much as to
say, '* Well, I'm jiggered ! " Later we saw many more
who showed the same interest, some of them taking to
the water and coming about the ship or following in
our wake.
We entered a broad belt of large flat pieces of one-
year-old floe interspersed with thinner new ice which the
Quest was able to crack, although it usually required
several blows to split it widely enough to let her through.
Following on this we entered a broad lead of open
water, but about 10 p.m. encountered very thick and
ii6 Shackleton's Last Voyage
solid floe. Owing to the dim light it was impossible to
distinguish rotten mushy ice which we could safely ram
from solid pieces which badly jarred the ship. About
midnight I lay to till more light should give me a chance
to get a better view from the mast head.
We obtained a sounding of 2,163 fathoms in position
lat. 68° 3' S. and 16° 12' E. long., and as soon as the
light improved we set off again and spent the whole
of February nth energetically pushing south. The
temperature fell rapidly, reaching 18° F. at midnight.
All the open water started freezing over and was covered
with a skin of ice which offered little resistance to the
ship when she was well under way, but impeded her
considerably when in the dense pack she was forced to
be continually stopping and restarting again.
As far as the actual weather was concerned the Ant-
arctic can offer nothing better than that which we were
experiencing, fine and clear, the air crisp and cold, yet
not sufficiently so to be unpleasant. As the sun sloped
down to the horizon with the gentle decline it takes in
these latitudes, in contrast to the suddenness with which
it disappears in the tropics, we had a beautiful long
sunset, the sky taking the most wonderful colours,
crimson, amber and gold. The snow surface was a
lovely pale pink except where each hummock threw a
long black shadow. The surface of the newly freezing
parts, still and polished, reflected a pale green. Across
the vault of the sky were little fleecy rolls of pink cloud,
while nearer the horizon were heavier banks of a deep
crimson. Stretching away behind in an ever-narrowing
ribbon one saw the lane cut by the passage of the ship
disturbed only in the foreground by the ripple of the
screw. In contrast to the vivid colouring ahead that
Into the South 117
astern had the black and white effect of a pencil sketch.
A perfectly wonderful evening and yet — timeo Danaos
— I do not like the pack when it smiles. The prospect
was not good. I knew that unless we got a rise of
temperature things might be bad for us, for it would be
quite impossible to forge through the thickening ice,
which had the effect of cementing together the heavier
floes so that a much more powerful ship than the Quest
would have been quite unable to make any impression
upon them.
There was one thing I knew I must avoid. The
Quest was not suitable for " freezing in." Her shape
was not such as would cause her to rise with lateral pres-
sure, and it was almost certain that should she become
involved in any of the heavy disturbances which fre-
quently occur she was not likely to survive. The hazard
of a boat journey was not likely to meet with the same
fortunate ending that we experienced in the Endurance
expedition, where our escape was indeed a miraculous
one. Nearly all our special winter equipment was at
Cape Town, which was to have been our base of opera-
tions. But weighing even more than these factors was T
another on which one can only briefly touch : in spite of f.
a solid nucleus of old, tried Antarctic men, and others ]
of proved worth in different fields, there was a discordant /
element in the personnel which I was anxious to adjust 1
before I exposed the party to the trials and vicissitudes |
of a polar winter. r
During the afternoon Worsley took a sounding, find-
ing in lat. 68° 52' S. and 16° 55' E. long, a depth of
1,555 fathoms, which showed a shoaling of 608 fathoms
in 49 miles of southing. The snapper contained a
specimen of grey mud which was handed to the geologist.
4
ii8 Shackleton's Last Voyage
I had no rest during the night, for I realized that
on the next few hours hung the fate of this effort.
Unless the temperature rose and the ice showed signs
of loosening it would be necessary to turn back, little
though I liked the prospect. I was in the crow's nest the
moment that the dim midnight light began to improve,
searching all round the horizon with binoculars. Every-
where the ice lay tightly packed and solid. Mcllroy
reported a further drop of two degrees Fahrenheit. The
filmy, freezing surface of the leads had become definitely
frozen over, so that there was not a drop of water to be
seen anywhere. Even to the northward the outlook was
bad, and I began to fear that after all we might be beset.
That we could push no farther into the heavy ice was
certain. I decided to remain where I was for the day,
but longer than that would be fatal unless a change
occurred in the meantime. I manoeuvred the ship to a
large solid floe to enable the scientists to take their
instruments over the side, and give all hands a chance
of exercise after the cramping spell of shipboard. Near
by a fat Weddell seal lay asleep. I shot it, and Mcllroy
and Macklin skinned it and took the blubber to the
bunkers. Carr, with the assistance of Marr, Naisbitt
and Argles, brought in some ice for use as drinking
water.
Sea ice, although salt, has the peculiar property that
if piled up for two or three days, either naturally as
pressure ridges or artificially by heaping up a number
of frozen slabs, the salt leaves the upper pieces, which
can be melted down and freely used as drinking water.
Physicists have not been able to explain fully the pheno-
menon. It is, however, an easily demonstrable fact,
and it is by this property of the ice alone that ships have
Photo: ll'ilkifis-
EMFEROR PENGUINS ON THE FLOE: A STILL EVENING
IN THE PACK
Into the South
119
/
been able to winter in the pack. In the height of summer,
when the sun beats down strongly upon the ice, pools of
water form on the surface of the floes. They are fresh
and can be used for drinking. It is necessary, however,
if water is being taken from this source, to see that the
floe is a good solid one, not " rotted " underneath, in
The track of the Quest as compared with the tracks of Biscoe and
Bellingshausen.
which case it may be brackish. During some of our
marches over the ice of the Weddell Sea after the loss
of the Endurance the going was very bad and the work
tremendously hard on account of soft snow, which let
the men down to the hips and the dogs to their bellies,
and we suffered severely from thirst. When we encoun-
tered any of these pools they were freely used by men
and dogs for drinking, and we never noticed any salty
flavour.
^,
120 Shackleton's Last Voyage
The eating of snow is bad; of this there can be no
doubt, though I have seen it stated in the writings of
some explorers that it is quite suitable for quenching
thirst, and all that is necessary is to overcome the pre-
judice against its use. The eating of a little snow is
harmless, but if one indulges in the practice for a long
time the mouth becomes very dry due to the paralysing
effect of cold on the salivary glands. The result
is that more and more of it is required and the dry-
ness of the mouth is intensified. Any weak spots
which may have developed in the teeth are at once dis-
covered, with consequent severe facial neuralgia. The
swallowing of the scarcely melted water tends to upset
digestion, as is well seen in the United States of
America, where the frequent taking of iced drinks is
a national practice and dyspepsia is the national com-
plaint. This is not a theoretical observation, for as an
enthusiastic young man in my early days of exploration
I made the experiment to my sorrow, and I have noted
the effects upon other members of the different expedi-
tions which have entered these regions.
Worsley, with the assistance of Dell and Watts, took
a sounding, finding bottom at 1,089 fathoms in lat. 69°
17' S. and 17° 9' E. long. This showed a shoaling of
466 fathoms in twenty-nine miles, and certainly indi-
cated the approach to the continental shelf. Once again
I climbed to the crow's nest and scanned the horizon to
the south. The sky in that direction had a hard white
look such as one would get over snow-covered land, but
is also seen over densely packed ice. I felt sure that if
we could only work our way for another fifty miles to
the south we should sight or find indications of land, but
no ship ever built could possibly have pushed through
Into the South 121
the ice to the south of us, not even the most powerful
ice-breakers.
Of animal and bird life there was very little, but
though if present they would have been additional
evidence in favour of the proximity of land, their absence
did not necessarily negative it.
Looking backwards to the north I saw that the ice
in that direction, though less dense than that to the
south, was settling firm and hard, and I decided that
as soon as the scientific staff had completed their observa-
tions I must beat a hasty and energetic retreat.
Few people can realize what an effort it had been to
force the little Qztest to this position. It was hard to
have to turn back. It was necessary, however, to make
every effort to escape this freeze up, but once in loose
pack I was determined to seize the first chance to push
south again.
CHAPTER VII
THE ICE
AT about 4.0 P.M. on February 12th, having come
to my decision, I blew the steam whistle for the
recall of all hands, who had thoroughly enjoyed their
day on the ice. Query had had a splendid time in spite
of having once or twice fallen through mushy holes into
freezing water, and he came back to the ship thoroughly
tired from the unwonted exercise.
We had some difficulty in getting under way, but
once the ship had gathered momentum she was able to
push on through the new ice. Navigation required the
utmost watchfulness and care; we could not afford to
delay, for minutes totalled up, and the ice was increasing
hourly in thickness. Every stop added to the difficulties
of getting under way again. I must pay a high tribute
to the unremitting energy and unfailing resource of
Worsley and Jeffrey at this critical period as we forced
our way from the closing grip of the pack. Macklin
writes in his diary :
The way in which the Quest is made to push ahead
and to dodge and wriggle past the most awkward
places is wonderful. Kerr is excelling himself below
— I hope he does not bust her up, for these engines
have given at one time and another a lot of trouble.
It is interesting to compare the different watches at
work. Commander Wild goes about the job quietly
122
COMMANDER WILD'S WATCH— MolLROY, CARR, WILD, MACKLIN
F kotos : IVilkins
THE "BLACK" WATCH— ROSS. ARGLES, YOUNG. KERR. SMITH
WORSLEYS WATCH DOUGLAS. WILKINS. WATTS. WORSI.EY
JEFFREY'S WATCH-McLEOD, MARR. JEFFREY, DELL
Photos: lV,lki„s
The Ice 123
and steadily, without fuss or shouting, and un-
doubtedly makes the best headway. Old Wuzzles
(Worsley) also goes ahead energetically, but to an
accompaniment of noise that might waken the dead,
for which, perhaps, he is less responsible than some
members of his watch. Jeffrey also makes surpris-
ingly good headway, with a running commentary
usually the reverse of complimentary on all things
frozen.
I was wakened at 4.0 on the following morning
by McLeod, who shouted in at my door, " One bell and
the ship's afire ! " In a moment I was out of bed and
on deck, to find dense smoke and flame ascending from
what appeared to be the engine-room skylight. Rushing
to the engine-room door, I was met by Smith, who said
that everything was all right below. The flames were
leaping up alongside the funnel. I went up on to the
bridge and shouted to the other members of my watch
who had turned out to get Pyrene extinguishers, of which
we kept a number always on hand. We squirted their
contents vigorously into the midst of the flames, and
soon had them subdued, when I discovered that the
cause of the trouble lay in some cork fenders and coils
of tarry rope which had been placed against the funnel
on the previous day. The flames had spread to two large
wooden sidelight boards and to some canvas gear. Our
portable hand-sounding machine was also involved, and
was, unfortunately, rendered almost useless. The fire,
while it lasted, was a brisk one, and had we been com-
pelled to rely on the old hose system for its extinction
there is no doubt that it would have proved serious. The
rapidity with which we were able to control it speaks
124 Shackleton's Last Voyage
much for the efficacy of the extinguishers in use, which
were of the carbon-dioxide producing type.
Having leapt straight from our bunks, we were
exceedingly lightly clothed, and, now that the excite-
ment was over, we noticed the cold atmosphere and
scampered off to garb ourselves more warmly.
We continued vigorously pushing north all day.
Numerous crab-eater seals were seen, many of them on
our direct route ; but although I was anxious to lay in a
store of their blubber I did not stop. We saw also a
number of emperor penguins. Bird life, as I have
said, had been very scarce, and represented only by
snow petrels, a number of which, outlined in silvery
whiteness against the blue of the sky as they passed
overhead on their way south, presented a very beautiful
picture.
In the evening we passed by a floe on which five
large seals lay asleep, and I determined to stop for a
short time and take them up. There is no difficulty in
killing and obtaining any number of Antarctic seals, no
matter how small the floe they are on, provided one
approaches them quietly and gets within a range at which
they can be picked off rapidly and with certainty one
after the other. On this occasion I gave the word to
withhold fire till we were close alongside, but Douglas,
apparently unable to restrain his impetuosity, fired too
soon and succeeded in wounding one, which heaved itself
about frantically and startled the others to sudden wake-
fulness. To make matters worse, Douglas continued
firing, and some of them dived into the sea. It is a
characteristic of these seals that if wounded they prefer
to be on a floe, and all but one came back again, when
they were properly dispatched and hoisted aboard for
The Ice 125
removal of their blubber. The moment they were aboard
I set off again, scarcely waiting for the men on the floe,
who scrambled up as the ship was moving away.
There is a great difference between Arctic and
Antarctic seals. In the North the seal has always to be
on the look out for the polar bear, and when it comes
ashore to sleep does so fitfully, frequently raising its
head to look about, and slipping back to the water on
the least alarm. Its enemies are above and not below
water. The contrary holds in the Antarctic, where the
seals are vigorously preyed upon by the killers and
sea-leopards. On the surface, however, they have no
enemies, and although they take fright if approached
quickly or noisily, one can, by moving quietly, get so
close to them that they can, if so desired, be clubbed
instead of shot. This clubbing should be done with a
heavy instrument, such as the loom of an oar, and the
point to be aimed at is the nose. If the blow is delivered
accurately and with sufficient weight, the seal is imme-
diately rendered unconscious, after which the jugular
yeins and the main arteries of the neck are severed with
a knife, without one of which at his belt no good sailor
or explorer goes anywhere. In any case the carcass of
the seal should always be thoroughly bled. Another
useful instrument by which the animal can be instan-
taneously killed is an Alpine ice-pick, the point being
driven by a smart downward tap through the vault of the
skull. This has the disadvantage of destroying the
brain, which we always used for cooking, and is, indeed,
the greatest dainty provided by these animals. The
method of killing seals which we always adopted when
we had plenty of ammunition was to shoot them. I
always aim at the neck, just behind the skull, where
126 Shackleton's Last Voyage
many vital structures are brought into close relationship.
Death is instantaneous, bleeding takes place freely, and
the brain is not destroyed.
Macklin sustained a nasty cut during the flensing,
running his hand off the haft of the knife on to the blade.
He rather prided himself on his knives, on which he
kept a razor edge, and on his flensing, and I think he
felt annoyed at his clumsiness, for it was with an almost
shamefaced air that he went to Mcllroy to get his hand
bound up.
The art of keeping a hunting-knife in really good
order is one which few people understand. A keen edge
is essential for neat and rapid work, yet I have seen
many people hacking laboriously away with a blade
which would scarcely penetrate butter. I always carry
a pocket carborundum stone, and I carefully clean and
sharpen my knife every time I use it. Before using the
stone it is important to see that there is no blood or
blubber remaining on the blade. After a heavy day's
flensing it may take from half an hour to an hour to
bring the edge to perfection again, and I am always
amused at the man who brings something resembling a
butcher's steel and says : " You might just sharpen that
for me, will you ? "
Another art is the making of a good leather sheath,
for that is a thing one cannot buy. It is careful and con-
tinued attention to small things that makes for efficiency
at this kind of work.
It did not get completely dark at midnight. The
increasing light in the early morning produced a wonder-
ful sunrise. Owing to the gradual upward curve of the
sun in these latitudes, the effects last for hours and
change slowly, contrasting strongly with the evanescent
Photo : U iikins
THE QVEST BESET NEAR ROSS S APPEARANCE OF LAND
The Ice 127
tropical skies, where the sun rises abruptly above the
horizon and in the evening falls back so suddenly that
there is no twilight. The sky to the eastward was lit up
with the most delicate and beautiful colours, which were
reflected on the surface of the floe. The old floes passed
slowly from pale pink to crimson and, as the sun came
over the rim, to the palest and most delicate heliotrope.
The darker newly frozen ice changed from bronze to
light apple-green. To the westward a large golden
moon was poised in a cloudless sky, turning the floes to
the palest of gold. No words of mine can adequately f
convey the beauty of such a morning. \
These days impressed themselves vividly in one's
memory, which has the knack of picking out the brighter
spots in the greyness of these regions. I think it is
impressions like these which, working perhaps subcon-
sciously, produce that haunting restlessness which makes
one feel suddenly, and without apparent cause, dis-
satisfied with civilization, its veneer and artificiality, its
restrictions and its ugliness. Certain it is that few
people who have travelled away from the beaten track \
and spent long, unbroken periods face to face with \
Nature can hope to escape the sudden feelings of rest-
lessness and disquietude which come upon one without '
warning and drive one to pacing up and down, to face
the rain on a gusty night, or do anything so long as one
can be alone for a while. I think that every living being
has at one time or another experienced that curious feel-
ing— it is hard to say of what exactly — a sort of wonder-
ing lostness that comes over one in certain circumstances.
In our own country one feels it on fine nights in the
gloaming, when everything is stilled and the silence
unbroken save by the full-throated song of some bird.
128 Shackleton's Last Voyage
which seems only to accentuate it. One feels something
of it even in the cities in the quiet of a summer evening,
with the smoke of countless chimneys winding lazily
upwards, but it is in the great untouched areas of the
earth that it makes its deepest impression and grips one
with the greatest intensity.
It has been my fortune to visit many parts of the
world, and I can recall wonderful evenings in many
places which have created a deep impression on me, but
there particularly stand out in my mind's eye some of the
long Antarctic autumn twilights too beautiful to describe.
I have seen the most materialistic and unimpression-
able of men strung to an absolute silence, scarcely daring
to breathe, filled with something intangible and inexplic-
able. The very sledge dogs stand stock still, gazing
intently into the farness, ears cocked, listening — for
what.'* Suddenly the spell is broken and with a deep
breath one turns again to work.
We pushed on and on throughout the 14th and made
on the whole pretty good headway. I stopped just long
enough to let Worsley take a sounding, depth 1,925
fathoms (lat. 68° 21' S. and 16° o' E. long.). With
every hour the ice increased in thickness and the Quest
had all she could do to push forward. Work at the
wheel was strenuous, for in the new ice the ship did not
make a straight track, but swerved all the time from
side to side, and the helm had to be swung repeatedly
in either direction to check the deviation.
About midday we encountered heavy floe against
which we made poor headway, and I began to realize
that it would be touch and go as to whether we would
get out or not. I sent for Kerr and told him to give
his engines all they would stand. He increased the
The Ice 129
pressure of steam, and the ship began to make headway
slowly but surely.
In the early afternoon the weather changed. Mcllroy
reported a rise of temperature to 22° Fahr., and there
was a swell, very faint but quite noticeable. A skua
gull and a giant petrel appeared. All these signs were
good, indicating a more open pack ahead of us and open
water within reasonable distance.
By 8.0 P.M. we were once more making good head-
way, and I went below, to fall soundly asleep after my
days of anxiety and broken rest.
Owing to the darkness we were compelled to heave
to for two hours at midnight, for with the northing we
had made there was less daylight, and one cannot dis-
tinguish in the dim light between rotten floes and solid
ones, which if rammed would fetch up the ship all stand-
ing and possibly start the timbers and carry away a
certain amount of gear.
The temperature had risen to 24° Fahr., but when I
came on deck in the early morning of the 15th the out-
look was not good. The air was not warm enough to
prevent freezing of the ice, and from the mast-head I
saw heavy pack to the northward. There was one good
sign, however, and that was an increased northerly swell
coming along in slow leisurely rolls. It is a fine sight
to see a huge field of ice rising and falling in this manner.
We pushed energetically on and later in the day we
entered loose open pack. I had no doubt now that we
were out of danger of being beset. It was a relief to
be able to relax a little after the constant effort of the
last fortnight.
Although we were now free from danger of being
beset we had entered a new set of conditions which were
130 Shackleton's Last Voyage
by no means a sinecure. The ice had the effect of
deadening swell, but the pieces of floe about the pack
edge were often thrown into violent motion and made
to bump and grind together by the action of the sea. By
coming north also we were losing daylight, and we had
now from two to three hours of darkness to contend
with each day. Navigation under these circumstances
required constant care and watchfulness, so that I had
still to maintain a pretty active vigilance. For much of
our journey about the northern limits of the pack I was
compelled for the sake of economy to shut off steam and
proceed under sail only, which gave me some idea of
the difficulties which Bellingshausen and Biscoe had to
contend with, and enabled me to appreciate their reti-
cence to push deeply into the ice. To both of these
predecessors I must pay a tribute of the highest praise
for their determined and persevering work about this
segment. In the whole of my experience as a seaman
I have never encountered a part of the world where
weather and sea conditions generally are so uncomfort-
able. Periods of gale, with heavy swell and grinding
floe, when the outlook is obscured by driving wind and
blinding snow squalls, alternate with periods of calm,
when fog settles in a dense pall of fine mist which forms
heavy rime on all spars and running gear, and freezing
solid interferes greatly with their working. It takes
days for the huge rollers to subside, and the floes grind
and groan incessantly. I had always the feeling that I
could raise steam at short notice, but these early ex-
plorers were dependent entirely on winds, which blow
either too hard or not hard enough, and never seem to
strike the happy medium. To John Biscoe, British sea-
man, the trip must have been one of long continued
The Ice 131
struggle, for he was ill equipped, scurvy set in and he
lost the greater part of the crews of both his vessels.
On his own ship, the Tula, there were only three men
able to stand when the ship reached Hobart, and on
the Lively only three were alive when she reached Port
Philip. His story, told baldly, makes enthralling read-
ing for those who can appreciate it.
We made good progress to the northward, the day's
run at noon on the i6th being estimated by Worsley at
seventy-seven miles. We passed through much open
water with a strong easterly swell, but encountered also
several belts of heavy, closely packed ice consisting of
old floe which had undergone heavy pressure. Owing
to the swell it was impossible to avoid some severe
bumps. Birds were about in large numbers, including
Antarctic petrels, giant petrels and terns. We saw
numerous killers, and witnessed a most interesting
display by two of them which were playing and disport-
ing themselves on the surface, flinging their huge bulks
high into the air, and creating a tremendous turmoil in
the water. Crab-eaters were seen in numbers on the
floes, sometimes singly, often in bunches of five or six.
We saw no penguins or snow petrels. Worsley reported
a single Mother Carey's Chicken as having been about.
They all pointed to the proximity of open ocean, and I
expected that we should be clear of ice by next day.
A sounding taken in lat. 67° of S. and 14° 29' E.
long, gave a depth of 2,341 fathoms.
In the evening we again entered an area of heavy
old floes, which moved about and pressed together in
the swell. Snow squalls and dim light made the naviga-
tion of them a difficult matter, but by noon of the follow-
ing day we had got clear of pack and were in open water
132 Shackleton's Last Voyage
with a clear sky to the northward. Numerous solitary
pieces of floe and heavy growlers were still dotted about.
Growlers are heavy, solid pieces of ice, grey or greenish-
grey in colour, which float with their tops just awash.
They are consequently difficult to see, especially in poor
light, and a close watch has always to be kept for them.
Some of the floes carried passengers in the shape of
crab-eater seals. We saw a number of huge blue whales,
which are recognized by their large size, high vertical
spout which opens out into a dense cloud of spray, and
the presence of a fin. Killers also were about in large
numbers.
In the early morning of the i8th we turned south
again in another attempt to push through to land or ice
barrier. From the lateness of the season we knew this
must necessarily be the last attempt for this year.
We had not proceeded many miles when we again
encountered pack, which compelled us to take a south-
westerly direction, passing through a good deal of brash,
but keeping clear of heavy ice. The weather was thick
and snowy. Later we encountered some very old floes
full of small caves, and with well-defined necks where
the sea had worn them away by the continual wash, so
that they resembled gigantic mushrooms growing from
the surface of the water.
Marr was taken ill at this time with sore throat and
hign temperature. He said nothing of the condition
himself and would have struggled on had not Dell in-
formed Macklin that he looked a bit sick. He is a hardy
youngster and showed his contempt for the cold by
walking about inadequately clothed. He had a vivid
maroon-coloured muffler, beautifully soft and warm. I
once asked him if it was a present from his best girl.
The Ice 133
" Yes," he replied, " from my mother." I threatened
him that if he appeared without this round his neck in
future I would pack him off to bed and keep him there.
The doctors reported that his condition was not serious,
and a day or two in bed would put him right again.
We continued in a southerly direction till the night
of the 20th, when we met heavy pack which compelled
us to turn west. At noon on the 21st we were forced
to come back in a north-westerly direction. In the even-
ing we skirted a line of ice running west-south-west, and
on the morning of the 22nd again entered open sea.
The 22nd was Worsley's birthday. He had reached
his fiftieth milestone, but could easily have passed for
ten years less. We celebrated the occasion by an extra
special spread at which, to the surprise and (needless
to say) delight, of nearly everyone, some bottles of beer
materialized. The piece de resistance was a large pink
cake bearing in sugar the inscription, " Wuzzles' 21st."
He was called upon to cut it himself, and was given a
large steel chopper with which to do it. Having per-
formed a Maori war dance, he proceeded to cut it into
slices. It proved to be a bit hard, so he attempted to
lift it to a better position, to find, to his amazement, that
he could scarcely budge it. The cake turned out to be
a 56-lb. sinker, which Green had covered with sugar.
However, a proper cake was forthcoming, and the even-
ing was spent merrily.
The Quest was not a comfortable ship, and there
was little to take the mind from general routine and the
business in hand. The continuous struggle with the
pack became after a time very exhausting, and there
was a chance also of its becoming something of an ob-
session. Consequently, occasions such as birthdays.
134 Shackleton's Last Voyage
which provided a diversion and helped to lift the men
out of themselves, were of the greatest value.
February 23rd was a dull grey day. We hoisted the
squaresail at daybreak and continued to run off before
a strong easterly wind. With sails set there was great
difficulty in getting the wardroom stove to burn, for both
topsail and squaresail created a powerful and baffling
down draught for which we designed and made all sorts
and shapes of cowls, but without much success. The
wardroom became filled with dense acrid smoke, and
the fire was generally allowed to go out when the
temperature fell so much that no one could use it to
sit about, and those taking their watch below were driven
to their bunks. Wilkins and Douglas in the forecastle
had the same difficulty. Wilkins, ever resourceful, built
a cowl, but it fouled the sheet of the forestay sail and
was swept away. Nothing daunted, he built another,
which met the same fate. With exemplary patience he
built a new one each time the other was lost ! We did
our best to protect the cowls when setting or taking in
sail, but in heavy winds, when the squaresail was let go
at the run, it was almost impossible to do so.
Since the evening of the 21st we had made in a west
to west-south-westerly direction, but, seeing what ap-
peared to be open seas with sky to the horizon a deep
black, I now turned south again. Within an hour, how-
ever, we met with small pieces of ice, which became more
numerous as we proceeded. We then entered an area of
sea full of small round pieces, like snowballs, covered
with a fine powdery ice. Snow settling on this area gave
it the appearance of a " sea of milk." The swell con-
tinued, but the surface was like oil, unbroken by a single
ripple. We passed from this into a belt where the sur-
The Ice 135
face was just beginning to freeze, forming the thinnest
possible film of ice. The snow on this gave the impres-
sion of a grey sea. Visibility, owing to the snow which
fell quietly and continuously, was poor. The whole
outlook gave a curious impression of greyness, grey sea,
grey sky, and everything grey wherever one looked.
As we progressed still farther the filmy surface was
replaced by definite pancake formation. Amongst the
pancakes were numerous heavy old lumps, much water-
worn at sea level, but heavy underneath with long pro-
jecting tongues.
The night was cold and snowy and the decks became
covered with a very slippery slush on which, with the
rolling of the ship, it was not easy to keep a footing.
We took in sail, a cold and unpleasant job because all
spars, sails and running gear had become coated with
a thick covering of ice.
Dinner that night was a cold business, and the dull-
ness of the day and general outlook had rather damped
our spirits. Macklin writes on this date :
Owing to the stove refusing to burn, the ward-
room was cold, and we gathered round the dinner-table
feeling pretty miserable. Green had prepared a big
dish of hot potatoes in their jackets. I placed the
biggest I could find under my jersey and it warmed
me up finely. I kept moving it round so as to warm
as much of my body as possible, and finally ate it,
warming also my inside. One has to be economical
these hard times.
As the light failed the ice began to thicken, and as
the swell was causing the floes to grind heavily together
I lay to till daybreak. All night long we heard the
136 Shackleton's Last Voyage
moaning and complaining of the grinding floes, a number
of which, with long underwater tongues, drifted down
upon us, causing the ship to take some very bad bumps.
To economize our now much-depleted coal I had given
Kerr instructions to let the steam fall off, and we had
to be constantly sheeting home the topsail and pointing
the yards to get her to fall away from our unpleasant
neighbours, contact with which might prove dangerous.
The floes looked very weird in the darkness as they
surged up on the swell and fell back again into the
trough of the sea, the water sucking and gurgling
amongst the cracks and chasms and making the most
uncanny noises.
At daybreak on the 24th steam was raised and we
continued south, pushing through pancake ice which
contained many heavy floes. Seen from aloft the pan-
cake formation makes a most beautiful mosaic. Much
of our finest art is surpassed by Nature, and in these
southern regions there is much to attract those who have
an artistic temperament.
The ice rapidly increased in thickness, and by
noon we were again held up by dense impenetrable
pack in position lat. 68° 32' S. and 0° 5' E. long. To
the south the outlook was hopeless. I climbed to the
crow's nest to scan the horizon to the southward, but
saw only closely packed and heavy ice stretching away
to the horizon, whilst in the sky was a strongly marked
ice-blink. It was bitterly disappointing. There was no
alternative but to retrace our steps and work to the west-
ward. I went below, where once more I pulled out all
the charts and examined again the records of old ex-
plorers in these regions. I had a long talk with Worsley
and Kerr. The season was well advanced; the Quest
The Ice 137
had neither the driving power nor the amount of coal
to enable me to batter hard at heavy floe. As a matter
of fact, I do not think that any ship, however powerful,
could have made any impression on the stuff to the south
of us. As far as finding land in this segment was con-
cerned I felt that we had shot our bolt. I was, however,
determined to have another try, and to make Cape Town
my base, where I could overhaul and refit my ship, where
there was a big supply of good winter stores and equip-
ment, and where I could readjust the personnel. I
intended to make the start early in the season^ and I felt
confident that with the time to spare to enable us to wait
for the ice to move we should reach new land.
My intention was now to make as directly as possible
for the charted position of " Ross's Appearance of
Land," the accuracy of which I hoped either to verify
or to disprove, and to take a series of soundings on the
spot. We should by that time be very short of coal
and consequently also in need of ballast. I determined,
therefore, to call at Elephant Island, where I felt sure
we would find sea-elephants in sufficient numbers to
supply us with blubber as fuel. Blubber is by no means
an ideal form of fuel for the furnace, for it burns with
a fierce, hot flame and is very messy. Mixed judiciously
with coal, however, I knew it would materially help to
spin out the supply. I hoped, also, to be able to take
aboard a quantity of sand or shingle as ballast. From
there I proposed proceeding to Deception Island to coal,
and thence return to South Georgia.
At this point I must mention that which is not a
pleasant subject, but one which should not be glossed
over, because it indicates what is a most important
feature in the preparation for a polar expedition : the
138 Shackleton's Last Voyage
choice of personnel. It is a matter which requires the
greatest possible care, for one discordant or unadaptable
spirit can do a vast amount of harm in infecting others.
There can be no doubt that since leaving South
Georgia we had had a very wearing time and one which
tried the temper and patience of all hands. It must be
admitted that before leaving England the arrangements
for the comfort of the personnel had in some directions
been overlooked, and long-continued discomfort is
bound sooner or later to have an effect upon the temper.
Life on board ship entails a certain amount of dull
routine, providing at times an amount of exhausting
work but very little active exercise. We had experi-
enced long spells of bad weather, with a large propor-
tion of dull, grey days and little sunshine. I therefore
expected and was prepared to find that individuals
would experience periods of irritability, and that things
would not always run as smoothly as might be desired.
The personnel had been selected from men of marked
individual character, and in order that a body of men
of this type shall be able to live in absolute harmony
over a long period of time it is necessary that an out-
standing quality of each shall be a good " give and
take " sporting spirit. The effect of one or two selfish
and discordant natures can easily be understood. There
was surprisingly little friction amongst the various
members of the expedition, which is due largely to the
sound qualities of the nucleus of old, tried men.
I began to be aware, however, about this time of an
amount of dissatisfaction and grumbling occurring in
both the forward and after-messes that I did not like.
Men who sat at table with me and to a certain extent
enjoyed my confidence discussed and freely criticized
The Ice 139
expedition affairs with members of the after-mess. Of
this I had ample confirmation. Some of those thus em-
ployed were officers who from their position on the ship
should have been my most loyal supporters. In the
after-mess also I was surprised to find that the men
affected were those in whom I had placed the most im- -
plicit trust. It was a condition of things that required '
prompt measures. I assembled each mess in turn, and I
going straight to the point told them that further con- j
tinuance would be met with the most drastic treatment. i
I pointed out that although I would at all times welcome j
suggestions from the officers and scientific staff, and i
would consider any reasonable complaints, I could \
consider no selfish or individual interests, and my own /
decision must be final and end discussion of the /
matter.
I was glad to notice an immediate improvement.
On February 25th we passed through a lot of
loose ice, and in the evening entered a patch of
heavy, old, deeply stained diatomaceous floes. Scores
of crab-eater seals lay asleep on them in batches
of five or six. Passing close to one piece on which
six were lying in a clump, I laid the ship along-
side and with my heavy rifle shot them all. I sent
Macklin, with Douglas and Argles, on to the floe to
secure them, which is best done by passing a strop round
the body and tightening it close up under the flippers.
Having fixed up a block and tackle we hauled them
aboard — an awkward job on account of the swell in
which the Quest rolled heavily. In the subsequent
flensing Douglas jabbed his knee, the knife penetrating
the joint. The wound itself was small, but Macklin
insisted on absolute rest until he could be sure that there
140 Shacklcton's Last Voyage
was no infection. Carr also cut his finger. These ac-
cidents were largely due to the movement of the ship,
which rendered the operation a difficult one. Two in-
experienced men wielding their knives on the same seal
are a source of danger to each other, for with the sweep-
ing strokes employed there is the chance of a mutilating
cut. I always insisted in cases like this that only one
man at a time should have a knife in his hand.
Watts succeeded in getting Greenwich time by wire-
less from Rio de Janeiro, which enabled us to check our
chronometers. Long-distance messages were not easily
obtained owing to bad atmospheric conditions, which
produce loud noises in the ear-pieces.
By February 28th, as a result of our depleted
bunkers, the ship was very light and ill-ballasted. I told
Worsley to remove from the decks all heavy gear and
place it below, for which purpose I arranged to clear the
coal from the forward part of the bunkers and put it aft
into the side pockets. I divided the men into two work-
ing parties, one to go down in the morning, consisting of
Mcllroy, Marr, Macklin and Dell, and one to work in
the afternoon, of Wilkins, Carr, McLeod and Watts.
So much vigour did the morning party put into this work,
however, that at lunch-time there was little for the others
to do beyond stow the gear from above.
March ist was another fine day, and we took full
advantage of it to hang up the spare sails to dry prior to
placing them below. All hands seized the opportunity
to put out blankets and bedding for an airing.
The deck clearance made a wonderful improvement
to the ship. Unfortunately, it made it necessary that we
should have the gear up again when we coaled at
Deception Island.
The Ice 141
Worsley obtained a sounding of 2,762 fathoms in
position lat. 65° 22' S. and 10° \f W. long.
In the late afternoon we passed a yery curious berg
composed of a solid mass with a long, upright tooth-like
portion separated from it on the surface by ten or twenty
yards of water. Perched on it were several Antarctic
petrels and one solitary ringed penguin. How the latter
ever attained its position is a mystery, for the sides of
the berg were steep and precipitous.
On Saturday, March 4th, there was a strong north-
east to easterly wind, with heavy swell, and the motion
of the Quest was simply awful, so bad, indeed, that in
spite of our long time at sea several of the party were
sea-sick. Macklin writes under this date.:
It has been impossible to stand without holding
firmly to some support, and movement about the ship
can only be accomplished by sudden jerks and starts,
with hurried gropings for something to catch hold of.
A wet, snowy slush on the deck does not help matters.
Argles was thrown off his feet and, crashing across the
deck, fetched up on the other side against a bucket,
severely bruising face, chest and hands. Meals are a
screaming comedy or a tragedy, as you like to take
them ; everything placed on the table promptly charges
for the scuppers, and fiddles are almost useless.
Mcllroy, " Kraskie," Kerr and myself were sitting
on a wooden bench, secured to the floor, holding
on to plates and spoons, and endeavouring to guide
some food into our mouths. Suddenly, during
a particularly violent roll, the bench was torn from
its fastenings, and we were thrown backwards into the
lee of the wardroom, intimately mixed with knives.
142 Shackleton's Last Voyage
forks, plates and treacle dough. During the evening
watch Commander Wild was talking to Mick and my-
self on the bridge when suddenly he shot away into the
darkness, and a few moments later sounds the reverse
of complimentary were heard issuing from the end of
the bridge-house. Ross brought some tea a few
minutes later, apologizing for having spilled much of
it en route. He, too, suddenly disappeared in dark-
ness, and when he next materialized there was less
tea than ever, but it was a good effort his getting it
there at all. When I went below I saw Wuzzles try-
ing to work out his calculations on the wardroom
table, with first a book, then a pencil or a ruler shoot-
ing suddenly to the floor. The Quest is a little
"she-devil," lively as they are made. She has many
uncomplimentary things said of her, and deserves all
of them.
On March 5th we passed within sight of several large
and beautiful bergs emerging from the Weddell Sea,
the mouth of which we were now crossing, and met with
heavier floes than we had hitherto encountered. On the
9th we ran into broad belts of heavy ice. I took this
chance of " watering " ship, placing her alongside a floe
with some solid pieces of blue ice. Owing to the swell
the ship would not lie comfortably, and so, taking with
me Macklin, Carr and Douglas, I went off to secure her
fore and aft. We broke up and passed aboard a con-
siderable quantity of fresh ice. The men thoroughly
enjoy a job of this nature and make a great joke of it.
On this occasion they broke the ice into fragments of
convenient weight and threw them at Jeffrey, who had
undertaken to catch them all, subjecting him to a regular
The Ice 143
fusillade from which it was all he could do to defend
himself. On the floe there was a seal which had come
up to sleep, and we took this also. While this work was
going on, Worsley took a sounding, finding in position
lat. 66° 5' S. and 38° 16' W. long., 2,521 fathoms.
Query came on to the floe, where he took a
tremendous interest in a killer which was swimming
about. The killer rose close to the floe and "blew"
with such a blast that Query tucked in his tail and ran
for dear life — much to our amusement.
On Friday, March loth, we encountered still heavier
belts, and were compelled to take a north-easterly
direction. In the evening it turned much colder, the
temperature dropping to 17° Fahr.
A number of Adelie penguins were seen on the floe.
Seals were scarce, only one being seen. Snow and
Antarctic petrels flew about the ship in considerable
numbers.
During the night we continued to push in a north-
easterly direction, meeting very heavy broken-up old
Weddell Sea floe. The temperature rose again to
24° Fahr. A strong easterly wind was blowing, with
snow, which made it difficult to see far in any direction.
Water was again reported in the hold to the level of
the kelson, and required three hours' additional pumping
to reduce.
At 6.0 P.M. the snow thickened so much that we could
see nothing, and so lay to for the night. All about we
heard the cries of Adelie penguins. The wind and snow
continued all night, but at 4.30 a.m. on the 12th we
started off again, pushing through thick pack composed
of heavy old Weddell Sea floe with the water in between
freezing solidly, making headway difficult. Often during
144 Shacklcton's Last Voyage
this period I bemoaned to myself the low driving power
of the Quest. With the onset of darkness we again lay
to. During the night Marr, who was now a trustworthy
seaman, was on the look out. He makes the following
entry in his diary : " There was no one to talk to and
all round lay that vast cold wilderness of ice. Never
in my life have I felt so lonely. . . ." This is indeed a
feeling which one gets frequently in these regions,
especially at night — a great sense of loneliness such as
I have never felt elsewhere. On Monday, March 13th,
the temperature dropped during the night to 8° Fahr.,
and the sea froze solidly about the ship. In the strong
wind, with jib and mizen set, there was just enough way
to keep the ship from being beset. About 4.0 a.m., how-
ever, she did become fast, but as soon as daylight came
in we got up steam and proceeded as rapidly as possible.
The skies cleared beautifully, but the sea continued to
freeze so swiftly and solidly that we had the greatest
difficulty in getting ahead, and many times we had to
back off into our own water to get up sufficient impetus
to break through. How we got the Quest along at all
I cannot understand.
The outlook was very bad. Worsley and I spent
long hours aloft searching for signs of land in the direc-
tion of '* Ross's Appearance," but though it was a beauti-
fully clear day, we could see no indication of it. Ahead
of us the ice stretched thick and solid as far as we could
see. Headway became more and more difficult, and soon
I saw that it would be useless to attempt to push on. A
sounding showed 2,331 fathoms of water in lat. 64° 11' S.
and 46° 4' W. long., which did not indicate the proximity
of land. Owing to the low driving power of the ship I
could make no impression through the ice ahead, nor
The Ice 145
could I afford the coal for prolonged ramming. It
seemed to me that we were in imminent danger of being
beset, and I decided that we must push north in the hope
of meeting more open pack. I had to give up all thought
of attempting to return to " Ross's Appearance," because
I was now desperately short of fuel, and unless we could
get blubber at Elephant Island we should be in a bad
way.
About us during the day were numerous Adelie
penguins, occurring in twos and threes, and in a few
larger clusters of forty or more. None of the floes bear-
ing the large clusters were accessible to the ship, or I
would have taken them up, for their skins burn well.
Crab-eaters were scarce. Seeing two on a floe, with
about a dozen penguins, we lay alongside. Argles
jumped off to try and catch one, but in the soft snow
the penguin had the advantage, and Argles' efforts were
very amusing to the rest of us. He is an active fellow,
however, and was at last successful, bringing a squawk-
ing young Adelie in his arms to the ship, where Query
paid it marked attention. We killed the rest of them,
also the seals, and put them aboard the ship. Owing to
the darkness, we lay to at night in rapidly freezing ice
with the outlook as regards escape not at all promising,
and at 4.30 the next morning we raised full pressure of
steam and attempted to get away. After two hours of
hard ramming we had made so little headway that I
gave up the attempt and lay to alongside a floe. By
breakfast it had become apparent that we were fast, hard
frozen in. The temperature had dropped to 6.5° Fahr.
It blew hard all day. Birds with the exception of
a few snow petrels disappeared early. Macklin says
of these birds :
146 Shackleton's Last Voyage
I always regard the snow petrel as symbolic of
the Spirit of the Pack, for they are never entirely
absent, in fair weather or foul. Even in winter when
all is dark one can hear the gentle " whisp-whisp "
of their wings as they fly close. Their pure white
bodies with jet black beak and legs give them a
beautiful appearance when seen at a distance, but
when gathered about a piece of offal at closer range,
there is something unpleasant and almost evil in their
appearance, with their sinister curved beaks, hard
bright eyes and pock-toed waddling gait. They are
seen at their best on a bright clear day with a back-
ground of blue sky. Like the pack they can give an
attractive impression or a most unpleasant one.
Killers were about during the day.
We were still solidly frozen in on the 15th. A fairly
strong westerly wind blew with a temperature of 8.5°
Fahr. The day was bright and clear, and Jeffrey and
Douglas took theodolite and dip circle on to the floe
for observations, which were impossible on a moving
deck. In the morning I put all hands to cleaning up
the ship and pumping her dry, a process which took two
hours daily. Whilst engaged in this a killer appeared
in a small lead which had formed on the port bow, and
continued to swim slowly backwards and forwards,
affording us an excellent close view. His motion
through the water was a marvel of graceful movement,
but in other respects he was an ugly looking monster,
with slightly underhung jaw and a small wicked eye
which gave him a very evil appearance. His back and
flanks were covered with large brown-coloured patches,
probably parasitic. I called Marr's attention to him;
The Ice 147
he remarked that it did not make him feel inclined to
fall overboard.
At noon Worsley got an observation of the sun and
worked out a position which showed a drift of eighteen
miles in direction N. 43^ E. This was very encourag-
ing, for I knew that if it continued we should not be
long in reaching a point at which the floe would begin
to open up and give us a chance to get away. A sound-
ing gave 2,321 fathoms in lat. 63° 51' S. and 45° 13' W.
long. The steam pipe of the sounding machine froze,
so that Dell was unable to get in the wire, which was
left all night in the hope of getting it in next morning.
By daylight, however, the ship had altered her position
relative to the hole in the ice by about fifty yards and
the wire was as taut as a harp string. I made an effort
to clear it with an ice-axe, but did not succeed in doing
so. This single sounding wire held the weight of the
ship, maintaining it and the floe in the same relative
positions for forty-eight hours before finally parting. It
was not subjected to any jerking strain, but this test says
much for its strength.
We remained frozen in till March 21st. At times
I felt very anxious, for with the lateness of the season,
failing light and shortage of coal, I realized that our
position might turn out to be a very awkward one. In-
deed things looked so bad on the sixth day that I made
up my mind that we might remain a long time before
breaking free, and told Macklin, in dealing with the
issue of stores and equipment, to have in mind the
possibility of wintering. I had taken care to provision
the ship with a view to this eventuality, but it would have
necessitated the most rigid economy and a much more
monotonous dietary than we had hitherto enjoyed, for
148 Shackleton's Last Voyage
it must be remembered that the bulk of our equipment
was awaiting us in Cape Town. I did not, however,
mention the possibility to the men, for they seemed quite
to enjoy the break from routine, and I did not wish their
minds to be occupied with any sort of gloomy forebod-
ings. I encouraged them to amuse themselves in any
way they could by taking walks out over the floes and
by playing football. They were not slow to avail them-
selves of the opportunity. On one occasion I watched
Douglas, Argles, Carr and Macklin earnestly engaged
in a strange pastime, which more resembled a free fight
than anything, and consisted of flinging themselves at
one another and grappling and wrestling fiercely in
the snow. At the finish they all bore marks of the
contest, Douglas with an eye that threatened closure
within a few days. They informed me that they
had been playing American football, and said they
enjoyed it !
'* Soccer " was the favourite game. I frequently
joined in, as did Worsley, whose fiftieth birthday we
had celebrated a short while before, but who was by no
means the least active. The games were marked by
many amusing incidents. On one occasion Naisbitt
while chasing the ball sank suddenly from view through
a hole in the ice, from which he was promptly rescued,
soon to be covered with a coating of icicles. On another
day we were visited by a small Adelie penguin which
spotted us from a floe some distance away, and came
running as fast as his short legs would carry him to
join in the game. What he thought of it all I do not
know, but he insisted on taking an active part, neglect-
ing the ball and fiercely attacking with beak and flippers
any man who came near. Query took a great interest
The Ice 149
in the visitor, but was fiercely repulsed when he showed
too marked an inquisitiveness. In the ordinary way
too inquisitive penguins pay for their temerity with their
lives and go to swell the larder, but this little fellow
showed such pluck and sportiveness that we let him
go free. He waddled off to join his companions, to
whom, no doubt, he would spin the most marvellous
yarn.
In honour of our two Irishmen, Jeffrey and Mcllroy,
we celebrated St. Patrick's Day with a specially good
dinner, for which Green had produced some shamrock-
shaped scones tied up with green ribbon. I was also
able to produce some cigars and a bottle which we
cracked for the occasion.
On the 1 8th Worsley and Wilkins put down a dredge
with reversing thermometer attached. At first steam
was used for heaving up, but this proving very slow we
fell back on man power. It was hard work, but the men,
as they always do on these occasions, threw themselves
into it with a will, and we soon brought it to the surface.
We obtained fifty-seven specimens of quartzite, tuffs,
etc. There was no living matter, but the rocks were
filled with worm cells.
The next day we were closely invested by dense
pack, composed of heavy old pressure floes. On one
was a huge sea-leopard which I shot with my heavy rifle.
With the assistance of Worsley, Douglas and Watts I
brought it in to the ship, where Wilkins claimed head
and skin as specimens.
Later in the day I went with a party composed of
Worsley, Mcllroy, Kerr, Carr and Macklin to look at
a berg, distant four or five miles from the ship. It was
a bright morning and we much enjoyed the walk. The
150 Shackleton's Last Voyage
ice was very treacherous, and we had to proceed care-
fully from floe to floe, making many wide detours.
On the morning of the 20th the outlook was bad, for
we were closely beset on all sides, and the clouds to the
north showed no signs of *' water sky." The tempera-
ture was 10° Fahr., and the new ice was freezing more
thickly than ever. Macklin, Carr and Marr set off to
visit a large berg which appeared on the horizon. They
thought they were making wonderfully good progress
till it became evident that the berg was moving rapidly
towards them, charging heavily through the floe, throw-
ing aside fragments which lay in its path and leaving
a wide lane of open water behind it. I watched it
anxiously as, travelling at from two to three miles an
hour, it approached the ship, and I feared that we might
be involved in pressure as a result of the displacement
of floes about it. To my relief, however, it passed about
three-quarters of a mile astern of us and finally disap-
peared over the horizon to the northward. There was
something awe-inspiring about this huge structure as it
moved inexorable and undeviating on its path, relent-
lessly crushing and pushing aside the smaller structures
which sought to impede its progress.
In the evening there was a marked change in the
weather. The temperature rose to 14.5° Fahr., and the
day became more dull and grey. From the crow's nest
I could see a distinct water sky to the northward.
I was up at daybreak on March 21st and climbed to
the mast-head to scan carefully the horizon to the north-
ward for signs of opening up of the ice. There was a
heavy black water sky, and as daylight increased I could
distinguish fairly open and easily navigable pack. Un-
fortunately, between us and it were three miles of dense
I'Jioto: ^port cr' ucnciai
THE KENT " CLEAR.VIEW" SCREEN
Wilkins
APPROACHING CAPE LOOKOUT
The Ice 151
heavy floe solidly cemented by a foot of new ice. An
irregular line of weakness ran through the heavy floe
towards the now open pack, about half a mile distant
from the ship. I thought that if I could cut my way
into this a hard and determined effort might succeed
in getting us free or at any rate into a more favourable
position for escape should the ice about us begin to open
up. I had to consider very carefully whether to make
the effort or not, for the coal supply was such that we
could not afford a day's hard steaming with no tangible
result.
Accompanied by Macklin I walked across the ice to
examine this line of weakness more closely. It did not
look promising and I cogitated for some time as to what
to do. While we were walking back a crack opened in
the new ice ahead of the ship. It presented a chance
and I determined to take it. I gave orders for all hands
to stand to, and told Kerr to get up full pressure of
steam so that at any minute he could give the engines
every ounce they would stand. He accomplished this
very quickly, but before I had time to get under way
a large, solid, heavy floe had turned across our bows and
was completely blocking the lead. The full pressure of
the engines could make no impression. I sent Macklin
over the side with an ice anchor, and put all hands to
warping her ahead. After a long effort we effected a
turning movement of the floe, and the Quest, being able
to insert her bow as a wedge, slowly but surely forced
her way into the lead.
After some hard ramming and pushing at the floes we
reached the line of weakness, to find that the most diffi-
cult part of our work lay before us. For a long time,
in spite of tremendous efforts, we made little headway.
152 Shackleton's Last Voyage
We persisted, however, and after several hours of hard
ramming and squeezing our way between heavy floes we
won at last into loose pack, and soon after into com-
paratively open water. It was a great relief to me to
get away. Had we remained frozen in till mid-winter
and the ship been involved in heavy pressure our
position would have been a precarious one, for there
would have been little daylight to enable us to see
what was happening, and there would have been
long hours of darkness in which to contend with the
heaving pack.
Throughout the whole period that we were navigat-
ing about the pack edge, I was constantly made to feel
how extremely fortunate we were to have escaped un-
scathed from the ice after the loss of the Endurance.
That we got away at all is truly marvellous, for not once
in a dozen times could a frail ship's boat win free under
similar circumstances where the floes, coming together,
must have cracked her like an eggshell.
For a while I continued north, entering all the time
a more and more open sea dotted all about with bergs
and large solitary pieces of floe.
The day after leaving the pack we encountered
heavy swell, which caused the Quest, with her empty
bunkers, to pitch and roll in the most uncomfortable
manner. Decks, rails and running gear became iced
up with sprays which broke over her gunwale and
froze solidly, necessitating the greatest care in moving
about.
At night I could not distinguish white horses from
growlers, and so took in sail and lay to. I sent McLeod
and Macklin aloft to take in the topsail, which they
found an unpleasant job on account of the treacherous
The Ice 153
condition of the rigging, which was ice-covered and
slippery, and the jerky movement of the ship.
We continued on at daybreak encountering a few
bergs but no floe ice. There was a heavy swell from
the east-south-east, and though the wind seemed to have
dropped a little squalls of great violence continued to
pass over us. On this day we reached the maximum of
discomfort, and though the men maintained their cheer-
fulness I see now from some of the diaries that it must
have cost an effort :
It has been another unpleasant day with all the
discomforts of yesterday accentuated, the ship rolling
just as heavily and all gear more thickly coated with
ice, which is hanging in festoons and stalactites from
every possible place. Sprays have been flying over all
day and everything in the ship is damp. There is no
comfort anywhere except in one's bunk, and even
there it is all one can do to prevent being thrown out.
On the bridge to-day Commander Wild remarked :
" The man who comes down here for the sake of ex-
perience is mad ; the man who comes twice is beyond
all hope; while as for the man who comes five times
(himself) " Words failed him.
Poor Query is utterly miserable; he cannot get
a minute's rest anywhere. Nor can any of us. Yester-
day I caught my thumb in the jackstay, and it is so
swollen and tender that to touch anything gives me
agony. This beastly motion makes me sea-sick — I
am full of sorrows to-day. We are getting near to
Elephant Island, the home of all foul winds that
blow — what crazy impulse sent me again to these
abandoned regions.? (writes Macklin).
154 ShackIeton*s Last Voyage
Indeed at this stage of the voyage it took all our
fortitude to keep up our spirits. We again hove to for
the night, and the gale increasing in violence we lay to
all next day.
It moderated about midnight of the 24th, and we set
off under topsail only in the direction of Elephant and
Clarence Islands.
H
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m
SOMNOLENT CONTENT
A Sea-elephant on Elephant Island
Photos : IVilktns
RINGED PENGUINS AND A PADDY BIRD iCHIOMS ALBA)
CHAPTER VIII
ELEPHANT ISLAND
THE wind hauling ahead about 6.30 a.m. on
March 25th we took in sail and under steam pro-
ceeded south-west by south in the direction of Clarence
Island. We got a sight of it at 7.35 a.m., but
snow flurries obscured it again. About midday the
weather cleared v/hen both it and Elephant Island
showed up distinctly. It is hard to describe the memories
which these two islands revived for those of us who took
part in the Endurance expedition. Readers of Sir
Ernest Shackleton's " South " will find a description of
our arrival and landing — the first landing to be made
on Elephant Island. We stood gazing through bino-
culars picking out old familiar landmarks, each one
reminiscent of some incident that came rushing back to
the memory. There was Cornwallis Island, the shape
of which was so familiar, and beyond it Cape Valentine,
where we landed eight years ago, a haggard, worn-out
and bedraggled party, rejoicing at the sight of firm,
solid land, the first we had seen for nearly two years.
We had just spent eight days and nights in the boats
battling with ice, darkness and storm, toiling unceasingly
at the oars with brief spells of the most fitful slumber.
There our old Boss, whose indomitable will had over-
come every obstacle and surmounted each difficulty as
it arose, lay down on the shingle and had his first sleep
for eight days — slept for eighteen hours without a wink !
155
156 Shackleton's Last Voyage
In the distance we could see Castle Rock, unmistak-
able from its peculiar shape, and beyond it we knew
lay Cape Wild, though invisible just now. There I
wintered with my party while the Boss went for help,
living hand to mouth on penguins, limpets and seaweed.
From a sentimental point of view this was the place I
wished to visit more than any other, but I knew only
too well that it did not provide a good anchorage, and
I was anxious while the weather was favourable to find
a suitable place for ballasting the ship and obtaining
sea-elephants for their blubber. We therefore set
course to pass between the two islands and along the
south-eastern side of Elephant Island.
As evening approached there was a wonderful
mirage. Looking to the south-west we saw a number
of large icebergs poised high above the horizon in a
sky of the purest gold, whilst all about and in between
them were numerous whales spouting. These mirages
are by no means uncommon in these latitudes, but this
was by far the most extraordinary I have ever seen in
any part of the world, and certainly the most beautiful.
Later on the sun sank with a peculiar effect — both Clar-
ence and Elephant Islands seemed to be afire, a rosy
glare rising from each of them to the sky. Over Cape
Wild lay a reddish-golden glow and the whole appear-
ance of the island was beautiful, giving an impression
of the most peaceful calm. Any ship passing the island
on that evening would have carried away a very wrong
idea of the place, and I am sure that many of our party
who had listened to our unqualified, or perhaps I should
say much qualified, descriptions of our sojourn here must
have thought we were rather drawing the long bow.
However, they were soon to learn differently.
Elephant Island 157
During the night we had kept a safe margin between
ourselves and the shore, but with the advent of daylight
we stood in more closely and kept a sharp look out for
possible anchorages and suitable spots for our purpose.
We saw none on this side of the island, which presents
nothing but steep mountainous rocks and sheer glacier
faces. As we approached Cape Lookout at the south-
western end of the island we saw a small spit lying
between two high rocks. The wind was blowing from
the west-north-west and this seemed to offer a shelter.
We approached cautiously, sounding continuously with
the hand lead. As we drew near I looked carefully
through binoculars for signs of sea-elephants. Penguins
were present in large numbers, but I saw no sign of
larger game, and I was not altogether pleased with the
place as an anchorage. I therefore decided to turn
round Cape Lookout and look for a better place on the
western coast. Once round, however, we met strong
head winds against which we could make little headway,
and the coast did not promise anything better, so we
returned to the spit and came to anchor in five fathoms.
The surf boat was lowered and I went ashore with
Wilkins, Mcllroy, Macklin, Carr, Kerr and Douglas.
As we approached the spit I saw several seals and sea-
elephants ashore, but they did not seem to be in suffi-
cient numbers for my purpose. There was little surf
on the beach and landing proved easy. Wilkins and
Douglas went off on their respective jobs, and I landed
Macklin and Kerr with instructions to reconnoitre and
look for seals and sea-elephants, but on no account to
scare away those which were present. I went back with
Mcllroy and Carr to the ship to bring off more hands.
On the return trip I landed on a narrow strip of beach
158 Shackleton's Last Voyage
overhung by a large glacier which abutted on the north-
west end of the spit, and with Mcllroy and some others
walked along it to where the sea-elephants lay. This
is a practice I do not often adopt, for one never knows
at what moment these glaciers may calve, sending down
masses of many tons' weight on to the beach below.
However, nothing happened and we crossed safely.
The landing-place in its essential features closely
resembles Cape Wild, being composed of a narrow low-
lying spit connecting the main island with an outstand-
ing rock. This, again, is separated from another higher
outlying rock by a channel through which the seas surge
with some force. At the inner end of the spit is a high
shoulder of rock which bounds the glacier on this side,
whilst on the far side of it is another similar shoulder.
The main part of the island seems to be much more
accessible than it is at Cape Wild, but the place seemed
to be no more suitable as a site for a permanent camp,
for there were signs that the spit is at times sea swept,
and it is equally unsheltered from strong winds.
Penguins were present in large numbers. There
were two varieties, ringed and gentoo, which had segre-
gated into two camps, the ringed occupying the outer
rock whilst the gentoos collected together on the inner
buttress. The former, which derive their name from a
thin but clearly defined ring round the throat, are quaint,
deliberate little animals which show not the least fear of
man. They are the most wonderful climbers and form
their rookeries in the most inaccessible places, often on
the faces of steep and precipitous rocks where the foot-
ing is very precarious. After coming in from their
fishing it often takes them hours to reach their final
positions, but they show extraordinary patience and per-
Elephant Island 159
severance as they hop from ledge to ledge and from one
small foothold to another. They are often to be seen
on the slopes of large icebergs out at sea. The gentoo
is a larger, more brightly coloured bird, with orange beak
and legs, and has a small white patch over each eye
which gives it a curiously inane expression. It is more
shy of man than any other of the Antarctic penguins,
and when chased can travel at quite good speed and
dodge cleverly. As we came up a number of both kinds
were stalking slowly and solemnly along the beach.
Amongst them moved little pigeon-like paddy birds
{Chionis alba) which look very pretty at a distance, but
at close vision are seen to have very ugly heads and
beaks. They darted about with little quick steps and,
like the penguins, watched us curiously, no doubt
wondering what strange new creatures we might be.
Dominican gulls, skuas and Cape pigeons flew all about
the place, and numbers of blue-eyed shags perched on
rocks close to the sea or, with necks outstretched and
stiff as ramrods, flew with an intent air to their fishing
in the bay.
I walked across the spit to find a beach on the other
side leading down to a small bay. My mind was im-
mediately set at rest regarding our blubber requirements,
for, lying about in the shelter of rocks and large pieces
of stranded glacier ice, were a number of seals and sea-
elephants, including three enormous bulls, each of which
weighed many tons, whilst on a strip of beach on the far
side of the little bay was a large harem of cows. I shot
those on the spit and set all hands to the flensing. I
have a mind-picture of my men : Mcllroy, Kerr, Carr
and Macklin busily plying their knives, arms bare to
the shoulders and red with blood. Soon the place
i6o Shackleton's Last Voyage
resembled a shambles. I loathed having to slaughter
all these creatures, but the matter was one of the direst
necessity, and I had to put aside any feelings of senti-
ment. I have never at any time countenanced the un-
necessary taking of life, and whenever it has been
necessary to kill I have always insisted that it should be
done in the most humane way possible, and that steps
would be taken to ensure that no wounded animal should
escape.
The blubber was removed in large strips from the
carcasses, and a party led by Jeffrey dragged it over the
beach to the edge of the water. Another party secured
it to lines and towed it out to the ship.
Whilst the flensing was in process a curious incident
occurred. I had given orders for a dozen penguins to
be killed. One gentoo, in taking flight, had splashed
through a small pool of blood and came out with white
waistcoat dyed a vivid red. He went to rejoin his fellows
on the hill, but they, failing to recognize him in his new
colourings, pecked at him so viciously that he at last
drew away and went off, to stand disconsolate and soli-
tary at the head of the beach. Some little while later
Watts, who had not witnessed the incident, suddenly
exclaimed with much excitement, " Look, there's a new
species of penguin ! Quick ! Somebody help me to
catch him ! '* Taking pity on the penguin's outcast
condition I drove him into the sea, from which he
returned clean and white, once more a normal penguin.
This time his friends received him without comment.
I pushed on energetically with the work, for I feared
a change of weather, my previous sojourn here having
taught me never under any circumstances to trust
Elephant Island. In the late afternoon the wind came
SHACKLETON'S LAST ANCHORAGE
Fhotos : Dr. Macklin
McLEOD AND MARR CLEARING UP AFTER A BLIZZARD
rhoto: Wilkins
SUGAR TOP MOUNTAIN— PART OF THE ALLARDYCE RANGE,
SOUTH GEORGIA
Elephant Island i6i
round to the south-cast, and a swell began to come into
the anchorage. I kept the men at it as long as possible,
but at last such a surf started running on to the beach
that I was compelled to take them from the flensing
and put all hands to getting the blubber aboard. Before
leaving I took off also a load of glacier ice for melting
down to water. It was as well that I stopped the work
when I did, for the surf increased so rapidly that we
had the greatest difficulty in getting away the last few
boatloads, and in assisting to push out from the shore
I got soaked to the waist with the icy cold water. Some
hours elapsed before I was able to change into dry
clothes and my legs became absolutely benumbed.
On returning to the ship I found that Worsley was
growing very uneasy and was anxious to get away before
darkness set in, so as soon as the boat was up we heaved
anchor and proceeded out to sea.
Just as we were leaving the glacier fired a salute in
the form of an enormous mass of ice, which fell with a
reverberating crash on to the narrow beach below and,
entering the sea, caused a large wave to come out
towards us. I was glad that it had not happened earlier
in the day whilst we were walking underneath it. This
was the source of the pieces which we collected from
the spit. Some of them are of great bulk and weight,
and, with the erratic boulders which also are of great
size, give an indication of the force of gales which blow
in these regions, and show clearly that at certain seasons
of the year the spit is so sea-swept as to be untenable
by any temporary structure which might be set up there.
These pieces of ice, except when salt encrusted, are
crystal clear in appearance, and when melted down form
the purest of water. When we were living at Cape
i62 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Wild we used to be very fastidious about our ice. It
was the one thing about which we could afford to be
particular.
During the night of the 26-2 7th we kept well out
from the coast to avoid outlying rocks, of which we had
seen a number when we rounded Cape Lookout. When
morning broke we stood up for the north-westerly point
of the island, keeping a close look out for Table Bay
or any other harbour which would afford a good anchor-
age. The reports of whalers speak of a large bay in this
locality with safe anchorage, where the landing is good,
where seals, sea-elephants, penguins and all sorts of
seabirds abound, and where tussock grass grows luxuri-
antly. It was a common expression amongst the
marooned party at Cape Wild to say : " If we could
only reach Table Bay ! " We talked of the things we
would do when we got there. I remember that one man
(Greenstreet') had sketched an elaborate plan which
made all our mouths water. He was going to kill a
seal and, having removed its entrails, fill it up with
penguins similarly prepared. The seal was to be
covered with stones and a blubber fire kindled on the
top. The cooking was to last a whole day, at the end
of which we were to eat not the seal but the penguins,
which had thus lost none of their own juices but received
those of the seal as well. Can you not imagine us sit-
ting with tightened belts listening to the proposal, with
our mouths watering at the very prospect ?
We were never able to make the attempt to get there,
and it is perhaps as well that we did not do so, for on
this occasion we saw no signs of anything resembling
the paradise we had so fondly pictured. There are
* First oiBcer of the Endurance.
Elephant Island 163
places at the north-west end of the island where a land-
ing could be effected, but the coastline is composed
largely of rocky bluffs and sheer glacier faces, some of
them of immense size.
We started, therefore, to cruise in a north-easterly
direction, and sighted a narrow beach some miles in
length running along the foot of steep mountains. On
the beach were several harems of sea-elephants, each
containing as many as forty cows. Jeffrey, Wilkins and
Douglas wished to go ashore to carry on their scientific
work, and I thought this a good chance to get some more
blubber. I had contracted a chill as a result of my pro-
longed soaking in the cold water, so I sent Macklin
ashore with McLeod, Marr and Young to deposit the
scientists and bring off in addition to the blubber some
meat for cooking. I gave Macklin a revolver with which
to dispatch the seals, and he took with him also a B.S.A.
airgun in the hope of obtaining some paddy birds, which
make very dainty fare.
Shortly after midday I noticed a change in the
weather and with the steam Whistle signalled to the party
to return. This they did, bringing a small but useful
addition to our supply of blubber and some paddies.
We killed in all nine sea-elephants and about the
same number of seals. There were many hundreds
which we did not molest. I found on my return to
England that a report had been published in which it
was suggested that we had slaughtered all the sea-
elephants on Elephant Island. As a result some alarm
was felt by the directors of the Natural History Museum
at South Kensington that these animals were in danger
of extinction, and without any reference to me a protest
was published to that effect.
i64 Shackleton's Last Voyage
I can only repeat what I have already said : that I
have always set my face against unnecessary killing. In
all the expeditions in which I have taken part I have
n€ver seen a case of wanton destruction of any animal.
I believe that amongst explorers as a class there is much
greater sympathy for animal life generally, and especi-
ally for those types which they have known in the natural
state, than exists amongst those who know them only as
stuffed specimens. I may add, however, that had it
been a matter of saving the life of any one member
of my party I would unhesitatingly have ordered the
slaughter of every sea-elephant I could find. Without
wishing to labour the point I think the following taken
from Macklin's journal may be of interest :
I do not know how to explain the attraction of
this life ... it is certainly more primitive . . . one
meets Nature on more familiar terms and learns to
love her and all her works. One feels drawn into
much closer companionship with the lower animals,
though I am not sure that the word " lower " is always
correct. ... I have no doubt that what I have written
is so much Greek to the town-dwellers. One cannot
explain — these things are '' felt " and are not to be
learned from a book. . . . The English natural history
museums are such hopeless failures ; at any rate, in so
far as they attempt to instil a love of Nature. They
are so gloomy, and the stuffed, unnatural creatures in
glass cases are to me positively revolting. I believe
every healthy boy gets the same impression and comes
from them into the fresh air with a feeling of
" escape." This surely is bad.
My first visit to the Natural History Museum of
Elephant Island 165
New York brought me a revelation. The building
itself is a bright, well-lighted place and contains
things of the most absorbing interest beautifully set
up. In the hall the whole history of polar exploration
is set out on two immense half-globes; there is the
sledge taken by Peary to the North Pole and the one
used by Amundsen in his race for the South Pole.
The specimens are wonderful and the setting of them
is the work of artists who know their job, for every-
thing is lifelike and natural. In a snow-covered
forest glade there are timber wolves on the prowl after
game, flamingoes stand amongst the reeds in a swamp
where the muddy ripples seem almost to move, one
can gaze into tree-tops and see monkeys on the swing
from branch to branch, reptiles swarm about a pool of
water in a tropical forest, and there are other examples
too numerous to mention. It is a place where boys
stand fascinated, and one to which they return again
and again. . . .
Space forbids the full entry, though much of which
he writes is interesting and very true, for once wedded
to Nature there is no divorce — separate from her you
may and hide yourself amongst the flesh-pots of London,
but the wild will keep calling and calling for ever in
your ears. You cannot escape the " little voices."
They're calling from the wilderness, the vast and god-like spaces,
The stark and sullen solitudes that sentinel the Pole.
I now set off along the coast in the direction of Cape
Wild, and about 4.0 p.m. came in sight of the large rock
lying at the end of the spit. We picked out many old
familiar marks about the place. The weather was look-
ing very unsettled and I decided not to attempt a nearer
approach before darkness, but to lie off for the night.
i66 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Just before dusk the wind increased, blowing up strongly
from direction north-west by west, and many nasty willy-
waughs came gustily down the glaciers from the hills.
Worsley suggested spending the night under the
shelter of Seal Rocks, to which I assented, and we
crept up under their lee, feeling our way carefully
with the hand lead, finally coming to anchor in eight
fathoms.
Seal Rocks is the name given to a group of very
barren islets lying about a mile from the northern coast
of Elephant Island. They are covered on the northern
side with lichen, the only form of vegetable life which
exists in these regions. They are the resting-place of a
number of seabirds, and penguins go there after their
fishing to sleep and digest their food. Our berth was
by no means a comfortable one, for the rocks are not
large and give a very imperfect shelter from the winds,
whilst in addition there are round about them a number
of small ledges and submerged rocks, the proximity of
which caused me no little anxiety. I was very anxious,
however, to revisit Cape Wild, as were all those who had
wintered wifh me there, and I hoped that the weather
might moderate by daybreak.
I was feeling a little feverish as a result of my chill
and turned in early, having arranged that a careful
watch was to be kept, and having given instructions to
be called in the event of anything untoward happening.
Macklin relieved Jeffrey at midnight, the latter telling
him that both wind and sea were increasing, and advising
him to call me at once should he get the least bit uneasy.
This he did at about 12.30 a.m., to say that we seemed
to be dragging anchor and asking me to come on deck.
I got up at once. The wind had come round to the
Elephant Island 167
south-west, so that we were no longer in a lee and the
sea had risen considerably. The rocks showed up in-
distinctly as black masses against scudding clouds. I
perceived that we could not stay there any longer, so at
once called out the hands and rang the engine-room
telegraph for full steam in the boilers.
We started to get up anchor right away, but as we
shortened cable the ship began to drag more rapidly,
and as there was little sea room I began to fear that we
might foul some of the rocks or ledges before we could
get clear. I kept her going ahead with the engines, but
to add to the awkwardness of the situation the cable
fouled in the chain locker, so that the incoming links
would not enter the spurling pipes but, piling on deck,
jammed the winch. I ordered Macklin and Carr to jump
below, taking with them a heavy maul and a chain hook
to break open the chain locker and free the cable.
Worsley had by this time joined me on the bridge, and
we had some anxious moments as we waited for the
signal that all was clear, peering through the darkness
to where a seething line of breakers indicated sunken
rocks and reefs. From the darkness we heard the weird
" jackass " call of the gentoo penguin, like a wild
lament for a ship in peril — fitting properly the stormy
environment.
At last the cable was freed, we brought home the
anchor and were able to steam away without damage
from our unpleasant neighbours. All the time the wind
rose. For a while I steamed east, hoping to be able to
hang on, for I was loath to give up the landing at Cape
Wild and we were not yet properly ballasted. In a
short time, however, the gale had increased to hurricane
force and such a steep sea started running that I could
i68 Shackleton's Last Voyage
think of nothing but the safety of the ship, and so ran
away before the storm.
Dawn broke on a stormy scene, and our last view of
Elephant Island, seen through the driving spume astern
of us, was a very different one from the calm and
beautiful appearance with which we were greeted on the
day of our arrival. I had hoped with the coming of
light to be able to get under the lee of Elephant Island,
but to have attempted to put our now light and un-
ballasted ship across these seas would have been fatal.
I had to make up my mind at once as to what course
to adopt. We had in the bunkers sufficient coal for one
day's steaming which, mixed with sea-elephant blubber,
might be made to spin out three or four days. To beat
back to Elephant Island was therefore out of the ques-
tion. My chief object in making for Deception Island
had been to obtain the coal necessary to take the ship
to South Georgia, and, even under the most favourable
circumstances, I should have had against me the strong
current which runs out of Bransfield Strait. The hurri-
cane, though driving me away from the desired landing
at Cape Wild, was fair for South Georgia, and under
single topsail, with fires banked and the engines stopped,
we were making better progress than the Quest had ever
accomplished before. Mcllroy reported that he could
see no sign of change of wind for some days, though
a falling off in force might be expected. This was just
what we required. I decided, therefore, to make direct
for South Georgia under sail, reserving the fuel to enable
me to steam round the island and take the ship into
harbour. I called all hands to set the squaresail, which
was coiled in a frozen mass on the top of the deck-house.
This was covered with a thick, smooth coating of ice on
Elephant Island 169
which no one could keep a footing. We were com-
pelled to clamber up the stays and seize the right moment
to let go so that the roll would shoot us across to the
loresail gaff, to which we clung desperately with one
hand while we used the other to free the sail. The
Quest rolled and pitched in the liveliest manner.
Wilkins, in casting off a frozen lashing, lost his grip
and I saw a form shoot to leeward and disappear. A
voice behind me shouted in my ear, " Wilkie's gone ! "
and indeed there seemed no doubt that he had fallen
overboard. No attempt to pick him up was possible,
for no boat could have pulled back into these enormous
breaking seas, and in any case to have broached the ship
to would have meant losing the masts and probably the
ship as well. It was with tremendous relief that I
saw Wilkins appear some minutes after and go to the
halliards. He told me later that he had shouted that he
was all right, but the sound of his voice was swept away
by the violent wind. He had grabbed the backstay and
fallen to the deck, fortunately without damage.
We swigged home the squaresail and felt the ship
lurch and stagger under its influence, but it increased
our speed and enabled us to put the miles behind us.
We tore through the water, which bore down on our
stern as though to overwhelm us and passed sizzling and
hissing along our sides. We were swept continually.
One heavy sea, coming over our stern, fell with a smash
on the poop, carried away the after-scuttle, broke the
skylights and filled the after-cabin with several feet of
water. Dell, McLeod and Marr immediately set to to
repair the damage with temporary structures, which
would at least be watertight. Dell and McLeod were
required for another job, and Marr carried on alone.
170 Shackleton's Last Voyage
The work was difficult and extremely unpleasant. The
seas kept coming over the stern, compelling him to grab
some support to prevent being swept forward with the
wash. He was soaked from head to foot, the water
freezing and casing him in a solid suit of ice. I kept a
watchful eye on him. He stuck gamely to his work
and made an excellent job of it. If he is a product of
Boy Scout training it says much for the organization. I
warn Sir Robert Baden-Powell that he will find himself
hard put to it to " skin alive " this hefty young seaman.*
We continued running all day and kept the sail on
throughout the night.
On March 29th the wind abated a little, but it still
continued to blow a full gale. The seas had not gone
down and the Quest was thrown about like a plaything
of the ocean, so that the man at the wheel had his work
cut out to maintain the course and prevent her from
broaching-to. I hung on, however, for we were making
good progress in the right direction and saving coal.
We had irrevocably cut ourselves off from any chance
of seeing our old winter quarters at Cape Wild, which
was a great disappointment to us all, especially to
Mcllroy, who in the excitement of the rescue had left
behind his diary. It was wrapped up in an oilskin cover-
ing and he had great hopes of recovering it. One writer
says in his diary :
This is a great disappointment, but one meets
many in this kind of work, and it is no good making a
moan about them. ... I would like to have got there
all the same (he adds irrelevantly).
^ Referring to a telegram sent by Sir Robert Baden-Powell to Sir Ernest
Shackleton just as we were leaving England to the effect that if the Scouts
did not serve him well he would " skin them alive " on their return.
Elephant Island 171
The rest of the run to South Georgia was not marked
by any outstanding incident. On the 30th we saw a
school of piebald porpoises, and Worsley reported seeing
a " blackfish " about four feet in length, which leapt
several times out of the water. Numerous birds tailed
in our wake, increasing daily in numbers till we reached
South Georgia. The winds dropped a little, but con-
tinued to blow freshly from the west-south-west on to
our port quarter, enabling us to set all sail. The noon
observation on the 31st showed a run of 197 miles. This
was the Quest's record, and was made without use of the
engines. On the same day we were struck by an enor-
mous breaking sea which almost broached us to and half
filling the foresail dropped in a deluge on the deck-
house, pouring in through the ventilators and flooding
the cabins and wardroom. Much of it found its way
through the main hatch, which is in the wardroom, and
wetted many things in the hold. As we approached South
Georgia we noticed about the ship a number of small
seabirds somewhat resembling puffins, with short tail
feathers and a very quick movement of the wings in
flight. Worsley recognized them as " the same little
flippity-flip-flop short-tailed birds that flew round the
boat and annoyed the Boss so much," referring to Sir
Ernest Shackleton's historic boat journey from Elephant
Island to South Georgia during the last expedition.
On April 3rd we were in the vicinity of South
Georgia and expected to make a landfall about dark.
Worsley, who had not been able for some days to get
an observation of the sun, was unable to pick up the
island and we lay off all night. A number of soundings
was taken. A large school of whales surrounded the
ship and we could hear their " blowing " all about.
172 Shackleton's Last Voyage
April 4th was also thick and hazy, and Worsley made
a traversing cruise looking for the island, the proximity
of which was indicated by the presence of birds, which
we saw in hundreds with many young ones. In the
afternoon the fog cleared and we caught sight of land,
which we made for under steam. Night coming on,
however, we stood off till daybreak.
At dawn on the 5th we recognized Anenkov Island,
and decided to make for Leith Harbour round the north
end of South Georgia.
During the afternoon we saw several steam whalers,
a welcome sight after having had the world to ourselves
for so long. At night there was a fine sunset, and out-
lined against the rosy horizon to the westward these little
steamers made a very pretty picture.
We entered Leith Harbour at daybreak on April 6th
and moored to the buoy. Scarcely had we made fast
when we saw the motor-boat coming off with the familiar
figure of Mr. Hansen and another smaller one wearing
a white yachting cap. It proved to be Hussey, whom
I had imagined back in England long before this. Mr.
Hansen gave us a most cordial welcome, and I learned
from Hussey all the news he had to tell.
CHAPTER IX
SOUTH GEORGIA (SECOND VISIT)
SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON'S body had been
brought back to South Georgia for burial. I insert
an account written by Hussey of what had occurred
since I saw him last.
" The journey up to Monte Video was marked by
wretched weather. The ship's wireless was out of order,
so that I was unable to acquaint the world with my sad
news. We arrived on Sunday morning, January 29th,
and I immediately went on shore and cabled to
Mr. Rowett, asking him to break the news to Lady
Shackleton.
'' That afternoon, while I was in Wilson, Sons &
Co.'s office, a telephone message came through from the
Uruguayan Government asking me if they might take
charge of any arrangements that had to be made there
as a last tribute to the great explorer. I acquiesced,
and they immediately set about bringing Sir Ernest's
body ashore. Within half an hour they had sent a naval
launch out to the Professor Gruvel to fetch the coffin.
It was met on the quay by a guard of honour of 100
marines and taken to the military hospital, where a
guard of two soldiers was mounted over it day and night.
" Next morning the medical officers at the hospital
re-embalmed the body, as it was at first intended to
bring it to England for burial.
173
174 Shackleton's Last Voyage
" That day, however, a cable came from Mr. Rowett
saying that Lady Shackleton was sure that Sir Ernest
would have wished to be buried on South Georgia, the
scene of his greatest exploit, and asking me to make
arrangements to do this.
" The next ship to leave for South Georgia was the
Woodville, with Captain Leaste in command. He was
most courteous and sympathetic, and immediately placed
such accommodation on his ship as was necessary at our
disposal.
" The day before she sailed a commemoration service
was held in the English church at Monte Video, Canon
Blount, and Canon Brady, an old friend of Sir Ernest,
officiating. The coffin had been transferred from the
military hospital to the church on the previous day.
" While Sir Ernest's body was lying in state in the
military hospital the matron and one of the nurses placed
fresh flowers on it each day from the hospital garden.
" For the memorial service the church was packed.
Many members of the Uruguayan Government were
present, and representatives from nearly every country
in the world either sent wreaths or came in person. The
President of Uruguay came into the church and stood
a few minutes in silent contemplation before the rough
wooden coffin which, covered by the Union Jack, stood in
front of the altar. The Republic of Uruguay also sent
a magnificent bronze wreath to be placed on the grave.
The French Maritime Society sent a bronze palm, and
Mr. Ogden Armour, representing the United States of
America, brought a huge wreath of lilies. The British
Minister at Monte Video came with a bronze wreath and
a memorial plaque, both of which I screwed up later on
the walls of the little wooden church in South Georgia.
South Georgia 175
" At the conclusion of the service the coffin was
carried to a waiting gun-carriage by ten British ex-
Service men. Huge crowds had assembled to pay their
last tribute to the great explorer, and the whole of the
route from the church to the quay where the Woodville
was lying was lined by troops. Along one part of the
route women showered rose petals down on to the coffin
from overhanging balconies.
" On arrival at the ship the coffin was taken aboard
and the Uruguayan Minister for Foreign Affairs made
a short speech, in which he said that not only England
but the whole world was made the poorer by Sir Ernest's
death. The British Minister replied, thanking the
President and the Republic of Uruguay for the way in
which they had honoured the dead explorer's memory.
" The coffin was then lowered into the hold, and the
Woodville put out into the harbour.
" The Uruguayan Government had asked to be
allowed to take the coffin down to South Georgia in a
warship, but owing to the bad ice conditions which
existed at that time I considered that to take an ordinary
steel ship down there would be unnecessarily risking the
lives of all on board as well as the safety of the ship.
So they very reluctantly gave up the idea, but when the
Woodville left next day the warship escorted her to the
three-mile limit, fired a salute of seventeen guns — the
highest possible honour that could be shown to anyone
less than their own President — and steamed up along-
side the Woodville with the marines formed up at the
salute while their buglers sounded the " Farewell,"
which is usually only sounded for the fallen after victory
in battle. This seemed to me to be the most touching
tribute of all, symbolizing as it did their idea of Sir
176 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Ernest's life-struggles and his triumphant passing
over.
" We reached South Georgia on February 27th,
1922, and in a blinding snow-storm we took the
coffin ashore to the little wooden Lutheran church at
Gritviken.
" Sunday, March 5th, broke clear and calm. The
managers from all five whaling stations had assembled
at the church by three o'clock that afternoon, and a
crowd of about one hundred fishermen were present to
pay their last respects to Sir Ernest. The first part of
the funeral service was said in English and Norwegian,
Mr. Binnie, the magistrate, officiating. Then the coffin
was taken by six Shetland islanders — all ex-Service men
who happened to be working at Leith Harbour whaling
station — to a light decauville railway, and carried over
tiny mountain streams formed by the melting snow, and
past huge boilers and piles of whalebones to the little
cemetery on the hill. On arrival there the funeral
service was completed, and with the British and Nor-
wegian flags at half-mast at the gate of the cemetery
the coffin was lowered to its last resting-place.
" After the grave had been filled in I had a simple
wooden cross erected, and on it I hung wreaths which
I had brought from Monte Video on behalf of Lady
Shackleton and her children, Mr. and Mrs. J. Q. Rowett,
and the members of the expedition.
'* Many more floral and other tributes were placed
round and on the grave.
" When the funeral service was over Mr. Hansen,
the manager of Leith Harbour whaling station, very
kindly offered me the hospitality of his house till I could
get passage in a homeward-bound ship. Nothing had
South Georgia 177
been heard of the Quest, and I was anxiously waiting
for news of my companions. On the morning of April
6th Hansen wakened me with the news of the ship's
arrival. We were not long in going aboard, and I re-
ported at once to Commander Wild, giving him a full
account of all that had happened. While the Quest
was in harbour I went aboard and shared in such work
as was necessary, and Commander Wild decided that I
had better return to Monte Video as quickly as possible,
collect all Sir Ernest's gear which I had left there in
store, and proceed to England, there to report to Mr.
Rowett and Lady Shackleton and give them any in-
formation that they might require.
" Accordingly I arrived at Monte Video on the Neko
on April 24th, and, accompanied by the British Minister,
I thanked the Minister for Foreign Affairs, Dr. Buero,
on behalf of Mr. Rowett and the members of the expedi-
tion for the way that this great little Republic had
honoured our late leader's memory.
" I arrived in England on May 28th and was met
at Southampton by Mr. Rowett, whose many encouraging
and sympathetic cables had greatly cheered me on my
sad and lonely mission, and to whom I gave a full
report of all that had happened since the Quest had
left England in September, 192 1."
Whilst Hussey was telling me all that happened
there flashed into my mind the remark Sir Ernest had
made when the Quest first entered Gritviken Harbour —
" The cross has gone from the hill-side ! " When he
spoke I little thought that when next we should round
the headland and look across the harbour to those slopes
another cross would be there to replace the one that had
M
178 Shackleton's Last Voyage
gone, erected this time to the memory of his own brave
spirit.
Hussey was still awaiting a chance to go home, for
since the arrival of the Woodville there had been no
return steamers. The Neko, a floating factory belonging
to Messrs. Salvesen & Co., was due from the South
Shetlands in about ten days, and he hoped to secure a
passage in her. I was glad to see this cheery little man
again, who within a few hours had settled down amongst
us as if he had never been away.
The first work to be done after our arrival in South
Georgia was the getting up again from the bunkers of all
the heavy deck gear which had been placed below as
ballast for the run from Elephant Island, where, owing
to depleted stores and small remaining supply of coal,
the ship had become very light and top heavy. It was
not at all a pleasant job, for the bunkers contained a
considerable quantity of blubber, and, owing to the
heavy seas, the gear had shifted about and become
covered with the most disgusting mixture of coal and
grease, which had to be removed from each article as it
came on deck. The remaining pieces of blubber were
passed up and dumped overboard, for with the heat from
the engine-room they had started to become very offen-
sive. This done, the bunkers were cleared completely
and made ready to receive coal. Attention was then
turned to the ship and engines, to both of which there
was a good deal to be done, as may be understood, owing
to the severe bumping and the continued bad weather
we had experienced.
Under Jeffrey's direction, Dell, McLeod and Marr
proceeded with* the deck work, reset up the rigging
generally, replaced all worn gear, and put everything
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South Georgia 179
into shipshape order ready for once more proceeding to
sea. The greater part of the next portion of our journey
would be in the " Roaring Forties," which by no
means belie their name, so I was particularly anxious
that this part of the work should be thoroughly carried
out.
Kerr and his staff had a busy time in the engine-
room, where all parts of the machinery were subjected
to a complete overhaul. The main pump was taken
down, new parts fitted, and the whole put into good
working order. The hull was still leaking badly, and all
the time we were in harbour we had to keep the hand
pumps going vigorously whilst the steam pump was out
of action. It was found that the engines as a whole had
withstood the unusually hard conditions much better
than was expected, and credit is due to the engine-room
staff for the careful nursing they gave them throughout
the period spent in the South.
The contents of the hold were tallied and re-stowed,
and space made to receive the mails for Tristan da
Cunha, which had been deposited here in charge of Mr.
Hansen. Whilst in the ice regions I kept the boats
provisioned for thirty days, but I now reduced the
amount to supplies for ten days only, as the larger weight
is apt to make the boats unhandy.
I found it necessary to take aboard some fresh pro-
visions, and a small amount of equipment to replace
damaged gear, but our requirements in this respect were
small. I was fortunate in obtaining from Mr. Hansen a
supply of fresh potatoes, which are, perhaps, the most
valuable of all foodstuffs to people living under our
conditions.
Wilkins and Douglas were set free from all work
i8o ^ Shackleton's Last Voyage
about the ship so that they might have all their time
free to carry on their scientific observations.
A certain amount of carpentry was necessary about
the ship, for which work the managers of the whaling
stations supplied me with men. The broken after-scuttle
was renewed and strengthened, and the deck-house,
which had leaked badly, re-canvassed and covered with
a coating of red lead.
Throughout the whole of this work I received the
most valuable assistance from Mr. Hansen, to whom
nothing proved too much trouble. In addition, he gave
us a most cordial welcome to his house, where we
renewed our acquaintance with Dr. and Mrs. Aarberg.
It was indeed " Liberty Hall," for we came and went
as we pleased; the bathroom was thrown open for our
use, and there was always an unlimited supply of hot
water. We certainly needed it — words cannot give an
idea of the luxury of that first long wallow in the bath.
I was much touched by Mr. Hansen's kindly and prac-
tical hospitality, and tried many times to express my
thanks, but he brushed them aside as if it were all a
matter of no moment. Indeed, I was surprised at the
warmth of welcome we received from everybody we met.
I have an inkling that the Quest was regarded as far too
small a vessel for the undertaking, and that the enter-
prise was considered a somewhat hazardous one.
While the work of the ship was going forward I
made a point of allowing the members of the expedition
as much time for rest and recreation as possible. The
period spent in the South had proved a trying and wear-
ing one to everybody, and all were in need of a rest and
change of exercise. Time also was required for " make
and mend," washing of clothes and attention to personal
South Georgia
i8i
gear generally, which had been impossible whilst the
Quest was the plaything of the heavy southern seas.
I sent the men ashore, whenever the opportunity
afforded, to walk over the island, play football, or
yisit the people employed at the station, of whom a
number were British, chiefly Shetlanders. There
was a football ground behind the station, situated
at the foot of a high mountain and overlooked by
a glacier; the ground was more remarkable, however,
for its romantic position than for the condition of its
surface. We received a challenge from the Shetlanders,
which I accepted. In so small a company as ours,
numbering nineteen all told, it was not easy to raise
eleven footballers, for many were Rugby players, and
had never played the Association game. However, we
succeeded in putting out a side which, after a good game,
defeated the Shetlanders by one goal to nil. Anxious
i82 Shackleton's Last Voyage
for revenge, they challenged us to a return match, and
beat us. Unfortunately, the opportunity for a third and
decisive game did not occur.
I encouraged incidents of this nature, for they pro-
vided an entire change from the routine of ship's work
and served to draw the men more closely together on a
common level than the routine ship's work could ever
do. Also they gave a new topic for conversation and
discussion which lasted for days.
On April 14th the N eko arrived, and I accompanied
Mr. Hansen on a visit to her, when I discovered that her
master, Captain Sinclair, was an old friend whom I had
met in South Georgia eight years before. He readily
consented to take Hussey to Rio de Janeiro, where he
could transfer to a mail boat for home, and offered him
the only accommodation available on board — the settee
in his cabin. The N eko is a floating factory. Each
spring, as soon as the ice opens, she proceeds to Decep-
tion Island, and thence as her captain may think fit.
She is accompanied by four steam whale-catchers, which,
when they have killed a whale, bring it in and lay it
alongside the parent ship. She herself is provided with
boilers and vats and all the apparatus necessary for try-
ing down the blubber into oil. The pursuit of whales
has changed largely since the days of the old Dundee
fleet, when the actual killing was carried out from boats
by means of hand harpoons and lances. Now, instead
of boats, small but fast steel steamers are used, which
carry in their bows powerful guns from which the har-
poon is fired. Attached to the harpoon is a strong rope
coiled ready for running on a small sloping platform
over the bows. A bomb is fitted to the end of the
harpoon and forms the point. If the aim is good.
THE NORTHERN COAST OF OKYGALSKl HuKU
Photos: Wtlkins
CAPE SAUNDERS
Plioto: Dr. Macklin
WW. NhW lYlM Ol- W H \1 IK
A modern steam " catcher " entering harbour at South Georiiia throufih newly freezing ice
Fhoto: W'itkms
THE BLACK-BROWED ALBATROSS OR xMOLLYMAUK
South Georgia 183
this bursts inside the animal, causing instantaneous
death.
In the case of the stations located on South Georgia
the process is much the same, but the shore factory
replaces the parent ship and everything is on a larger
scale.
The newer method of hunting is a much more lethal
one — for the whale; from the catchers' point of view it
is, of course, much safer and more comfortable. In the
old days the chase of these huge animals was looked
upon as a dangerous undertaking and might be regarded
in the nature of a sport, for the whale had more than a
sporting chance of getting away and the hunters stood
a good chance of being drowned. Nowadays it has
become a mere business. Nevertheless, the floating
factories, in pushing south to good whaling grounds, take
considerable risks of being crushed by the ice.
Captain Sinclair is an old and very experienced hand
at the work, and in addition to his whaling activities
has added largely to" the charting of the South Shet-
lands and the Palmer Archipelago. He has succeeded
also in bringing home some unique live specimens of
seals and penguins, which have been added to the collec-
tion in the Zoological Gardens in Edinburgh.
On the 15th we went to Stromness Harbour, where
we were welcomed by the manager, Mr. Sorlle.
When Sir Ernest Shackleton, accompanied by
Worsley and Crean, made the crossing of South Georgia
during the Endurance expedition, it was here that they
arrived and were received by Mr. Sorlle, who fed them
and provided them with hot baths and beds, and was
instrumental in fitting out a relief ship to go to the rescue
of the marooned party on Elephant Island, getting it
184 Shackleton's Last Voyage
ready within twenty-four hours of his first hearing of the
state of affairs. This relief ship, the Southern Sky, was
unfortunately held up by the ice, and her return was
dictated, not by the Norwegians who manned her — they
were ready to hang on for many more days — but by Sir
Ernest Shackleton, who was anxious to get to the Falk-
land Islands so that he might set going the preparation
of a larger, properly ice-protected wooden ship.
I decided to lay the Quest alongside the Perth, a
large oil transport which acted as tender to the station.
A strong breeze was blowing, which made the Quest very
unhandy to manoeuvre, and whilst Worsley was putting
her alongside she struck her bowsprit against the steel
sides of the Perth and snapped it off short. This might
have proved a serious disability, but, fortunately, Mr.
Sorlle had a spar which he not only presented to us, but
had cut down and shaped to our requirements.
Here, as at Leith, we received every kindness, and
we had hardly made fast before a present of a pig and
a reindeer — the latter shot by Mr. Sorlle himself — were
sent aboard. All the officers were invited to dine with
Mr. Sorlle at his house in the evening, and we received
a dinner of six or seven courses which rivalled anything
to be had in civilization. Afterwards we spent a very
pleasant evening with reminiscence, story and song. Mr.
Sorlle is a most charming host.
Whilst lying in Stromness Harbour we experienced
one of those tremendous hurricanes which are character-
istic of the southern volcanic islands. Descending from
the hills without a moment's notice, it blew with such
violence that the whole surface of the bay was lashed
into a torn mass of driven water, the tops of the seas
being snatched off and blown in a blinding spume to
South Georgia 185
leeward. One of our boats lying alongside the ship was
swamped, and all gear that would float, such as oars,
bottom boards and fishing tackle, were swept out of her
and lost. Fortunately, the painter held, and there was
no damage to the boat itself.
There was no coal available at Leith, Stromness or
Husvik, so on the 17th I proceeded to Prince Olaf
Harbour to see if I could obtain what I required. The
whaling station there is the property of Messrs. Lever
Brothers, and is under English management. On my
arrival I called at once on the manager, Mr. Bostock,
who relieved my mind very much when he said he would
give us what we required for our purpose. We accord-
ingly lay alongside the Southern Isles, the oil transport
steamer and station tender which was to supply us.
Here, again, we received much help from Captain Sapp*
who supplied all the labour necessary to put the coal
on our decks.
Whilst we were here Carr developed a nasty abscess
of the face, and on the invitation of the company's
doctor went ashore to the hospital, where he could get
a bed, with clean sheets and other comforts not available
on the ship. Macklin was suffering from an inflamed
hand, the result of an accident whilst in the ice, and
Mcllroy found it necessary to incise it for him.
On the 19th we had completed coaling, and on the
20th set off for the Bay of Isles to study the bird life of
the numerous islands dotted about it. On this day
Hussey left us to join the Neko at Leith. He had taken
his old place amongst us and had joined fully in all the
work of the ship. His unfailing optimism and cheerful-
ness had done much to enliven us, and it was with
genuine regret that we said good-bye. I think he felt
x86 Shackleton's Last Voyage
the going. With him went Carr, who was now suffering
a good deal from his face. Hussey had instructions to
take medical charge of him, and if his condition became
worse to take him home on the Neko, but if it showed
signs of improvement he was to hand him over to Dr.
Aarberg, to await our arrival at Leith Harbour.
We made first for Albatross Island, under the lee of
which I lay to, and sent Jeffrey with the boat to put
Wilkins and his party ashore. They effected a landing
in a small cave, and, having scaled a cliff, reached the
summit of the island, where they found albatross and
giant petrels in large numbers.
Macklin, whose hand prevented him from working,
asked permission to go with them, and I quote from his
diary :
We landed on a little beach inside a cave which
was occupied by a number of sea-elephants, which
showed their resentment of our approach by opening
their mouths very wide and making stertorous windy
noises which could hardly be described as *' roaring "
— " breathing " defiance with a vengeance.
In the enclosed atmosphere they smelled horribly,
for they are unclean, swinish brutes. From the cave
we clambered up a steep cliff to the top of the island,
which we found to be irregular in shape and covered
with tussock grass. Wilkins, with the assistance of
Marr and Argles, immediately set about collecting
albatross for addition to the natural history collections.
These birds, when seen at close quarters on the
ground, prove to be much larger than one would
imagine, being about the size of large geese, but with
much longer legs. Their appearance on land is ugly
and ungainly, and contrasts strongly with the grace
A PAIR OF ADULT WANDERING ALBATROSS
Fnotoi :■ IVukins
A YOUNG ALBATROSS
GENTOO PKNGUIN FEEDING ITS CHICK
The beak of the young is thrust right inside the throat of the parent
Fhotos : ivitkins
THE CHICK AFTER FEEDING
South Georgia 187
and beauty they exhibit when in flight. Wilkins, by
going slowly, was easily able to get within reach, when
he grabbed their beaks and " pithed " them by pass-
ing a needle through the back of the skull into the
brain. He took the heads, wings and legs as speci-
mens and made them into neat parcels for transmission
to the museums. Jeffrey and McLeod had stayed to
look after the boat, so, being at a loose end and
remembering Worsley's ecstatic remarks concerning
baby albatross, I set about collecting enough of them
for a meal for all hands. The island was covered
with little paths worn by the birds, which formed a
regular maze amongst the tussocks and hummocks of
grass. Here and there one came across little circular
plateaux which apparently formed a meeting-place for
numbers of birds, for they were worn absolutely bare
to the mud. The nests of the albatross are placed on
the top of small, raised, cone-shaped mounds com-
posed of earth and tussock grass, which are nearly
always situated on the windward side of the island,
so that the birds when preparing for flight have merely
to spread their wings to get a good take off. The
inside of the nest is hollowed sufficiently deep to allow
the young bird to crouch and take shelter from the
winds. The young are pretty little things covered
with white down, and from the highest point of the
island I could see them all round me standing out in
marked contrast to the dark green of the tussock grass.
The giant petrels, " Nellies " or " Stinkers," as
they are variously called, nest in much the same way.
They are most unpleasant creatures and receive from
sailors none of the veneration accorded to the alba-
tross. We had been ashore some hours when
i88 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Commander Wild sent up a detonator as a signal for
our recall. The cliffs on the side where we had landed
are steep and overhanging, so that we had to approach
cautiously, and had some difficulty in finding the way
back to our cave. We at length found the spot where
we had ascended. I flung my collection of birds over
the cliff to be picked up below, and all of us having
got safely down we rowed back to the ship.
Macklin, in speaking of " the veneration accorded
to the albatross," voices a yery old superstition
amongst seamen of the old sailing ship days. When I
first went to sea as a boy this was still a common belief
amongst sailors, but though there are a few of these old-
timers left who still hold to the old romantic ideas, they
are becoming more and more scarce. Romance is not
dead, as Kipling says, but it moves with the times.
Masefield says :
Them birds goin' fishin' is nothin' but souls o' the drowned,
Souls o' the drowned an' the kicked as are never no more ;
An' that there haughty old albatross cruisin' around.
Belike he's Admiral Nelson or Admiral Noah.
I recalled the party on account of the weather, for a
strong wind had blown up, the seas were increasing and
there were indications of a heavy storm. I did not care
to be caught with the Quest on a lee shore, so went back
to Prince Olaf Harbour, where we found that all their
own whale catchers had returned for shelter. In addi-
tion there were a number belonging to other stations
which had put in here till the weather should abate. We
had for dinner the next night the baby albatross which
Macklin had brought off. This was the first food ob-
tained by Sir Ernest Shackleton on his arrival at South
South Georgia 189
Georgia from the boat journey, and often had we listened
to Worsley's telling of the story, this much of which
never varied : " Baby albatross just off the nest — we ate
them ! By jove, they were good, damn good ! " By
one of life's little ironies he was having dinner ashore
that night and so missed them; his disappointment on
hearing of it was keen.
On the 22nd, the weather having abated somewhat,
we left to carry out an extensive series of soundings
about the north-western end of South Georgia. This we
accomplished in spite of very bad weather. The Quest,
as usual, behaved abominably, having a most uncomfort-
able motion as we butted into the head seas, which sent
the spray in clouds high over the yards.
We returned to Prince Olaf Harbour on the 25th.
There was still much to be done, and Mr. Bostock kindly
lent me his shore carpenter for some jobs that were still
outstanding on the ship.
On the 27th we said good-bye to our friends and left
for Leith, passing en route the Woodville, which was
coming up the coast, and presented a fine sight as she
dipped her nose deeply into the swell.
We arrived in Leith Harbour in a blinding snow
squall which made mooring to the buoy a difficult matter.
The Quest's engines were of such low power that man-
oeuvring in close spaces was an extremely difficult matter
during the squalls, which came out of the mountains with
hurricane force and startling suddenness.
On the 29th Mr. Hansen was able to make room for
us alongside his little pier, where we proceeded to take
in water. Owing to the low temperature the water in
the hose froze solid and it became necessary to clear the
galley to thaw it, the process being carried out section
igo Shackleton's Last Voyage
by section till all was clear. Green had the dinner in
process of cooking, and was quite perturbed when he
had to sweep away all his pots and pans to make room
for the hose — such is an example of what a cook has to
put up with at sea.
On May ist we took aboard what stores we required
and the mails for Tristan da Cunha. We received from
Mr. Hansen some final presents in the form of a pig and
several small but useful sundries, and from Captain
Manson of the Albuera an additional two crates of fresh
potatoes.
On the 2nd we said good-bye to Leith Harbour,
which we had regarded as our South Georgia home and
where we had received so much kindness, not only from
Mr. Hansen, the manager, who had done everything in
his power to assist us, but from Dr. Aarberg, who had
looked after Carr whilst we had been carrying out the
soundings about the island and had been of assistance
to the surgeons in many ways. Our thanks are due to
Mrs. Aarberg also, for with much kindly thoughtfulness
she had asked us to entrust to her care such articles of
clothing as might require the " stitch in time."
As a result of our stay we were refreshed and full of
vigour, for the spell ashore and in harbour had done us
all good. Thanks also to the various managers we had
been able to vary the diet from our own preserved pro-
visions to fresh food in the form of pork, reindeer and
whale-meat, which provided a most pleasant change.
We were able to catch also Cape pigeons and albatross,
which when properly cooked make quite good eating.
The former have an oily taste which can be largely
removed by soaking them for twenty-four hours in dilute
vinegar.
te"
^wirt
ON THE WAY TO THE CAIRN-SEEN IN THE DISTANCE
Photos: Dr. Macklin
LOOKING SHOREWARDS FROM THE CAIRN
A winter view of Gritviken Harbour, with the magistrate's house in the foreground
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South Georgia 191
I seized every chance of sending away the boats to
catch fresh fish, which are found in great quantity about
the coast. Macklin, Jeffrey, Green and Hussey (whilst
he was with us) were those most often engaged in this
work, which was not always pleasant. An entry in one
diary reads :
Some people fish for fun, some consider it a sport,
others fish because they have blooming' well got to.
I am one of them. Down here the job is often any-
- thing but a joyous one in cold driving wind and snow,
fingers so cold that one can scarcely remove the hooks
from the fishes' mouths. Sometimes the blizzards
sweep down and it is all we can do to fight our way
inch by inch back to the ship. . . .
Macklin writes in this connexion :
The fish here are of excellent quality and have
the peculiarity that when cooked they do not taste
fishy. Green usually fries them in olive oil and they
are particularly good. The best spots for finding fish
are in belts of kelp close to the edge where the tides
sweep in and out. Whale meat (not blubber) makes a
good bait and a spinner (or any piece of bright tin)
helps to attract the fish. One can usually moor the
boat to the strands of kelp, but it is advisable always
to have on board a small kedge anchor and a good
length of line in case of being swept away by the
blizzards which blow from the hills with strong, sudden
blasts.
Green is a great enthusiast, and is always willing
to come, whatever the weather. . . .
For the substitution of the adjective I apologize to the entrant.
192 Shackleton's Last Voyage
There is no sport in the actual fishing, for the fish
abound in great quantities and are very sluggish. The
chief art lies in knowing just where to go for them.
There are two kinds, which we speak of as " ordinary "
fish and " crocodile " fish. The first, as the name im-
plies, have nothing peculiar about them. The latter
have immense mouths with crocodile-shaped jaws and
look hideous. The tail is small, and indeed it may be
said that there is more mouth than anything else.
The trip to Gritviken was uneventful and we arrived
there the same day.
Before leaving South Georgia we had rather a sad
duty to perform. For a long time I had desired to erect
some mark which would serve to perpetuate the memory
of Sir Ernest Shackleton. We had no time to do it
before we left for the South, for every day was precious
and it was essential that we should get away at the
earliest possible moment. After some consideration I
decided that the mark should take the form of a cairn
surmounted by a cross, and I selected as a site for it a
prominent spot on the headland which stands out from
the lower slopes of Duse Fell, at the entrance to Grit-
viken harbour. I determined that it should be the work
of his comrades, something which we ourselves could
create without help from outside sources. Everyone on
board was anxious to have a hand in the building, so
I arranged things that they might do so. On the night
of our arrival the temperature fell very low and the
surface of the harbour froze over, not sufficiently to
permit of walking but enough to make it an extremely
difficult matter to get the boat to the shore. Also snow
fell thickly. We broke a way through the ice and pro-
ceeded to the headland, where we made a search for
South Georgia 193
suitable building stone. There was none convenient,
and to obtain it we had to go some distance up the hill-
side to where a shoulder of rock jutted out through
the tussock grass. Having removed the snow we bored
the rock and blasted it with sabulite, afterwards breaking
away suitable pieces with crowbar and pick. For sledg-
ing it down the hill we had to make special box-con-
tainers; even then with the steepness of the declivity
and the roughness of the track it was a difficult matter
to prevent the loads from falling off. The work was
awkward and hard; on several occasions the sledges
broke away and careered down the slippery hillside with
the men clinging desperately behind. No one grudged
the labour and time spent, for it was the last job we
should do for the Boss. The foundations were laid and
the cairn began to grow. There were no expert masons
amongst us, but the work when completed had a most
pleasing appearance. Into the stone we cemented a
brass plate on which was engraved very simply :
SIR ERNEST SHACKLETON
Explorer
died here, january 5th, i922.
erected by his comrades.
The cairn is solid and will stand the ravages of frost
and blizzards for many years to come.
It will be the first object picked out by any ship
entering the harbour, and to anyone looking back as
the vessel steams away it will stand out in lonely promi-
nence long after the station has disappeared from view.
It can be seen also from every part of the harbour.
Our last act before leaving was to pay a visit to the
Boss's grave, for which purpose I gathered together all
N
194 Shackleton's Last Voyage
those who had served under him on the Endurance and
had shared with him all the trials and vicissitudes that
followed her loss in the ice. There were, in addition to
myself, Worsley, Macklin, Mcllroy, Kerr, Green and
McLeod. That I included none of the newer men who
had known him for so short awhile casts no shadow of
aspersion upon them. My feelings in the matter are
hard to describe. We were joined to each other and
to him by ties so strongly welded through the long
months of common danger and uncertainty that I felt
there would be something wrong in introducing anything
in the nature of a less intimate element.
So our little party rowed across the bay, walked to
the little graveyard and gathered for the last time round
his grave. It was deeply snow-covered. We carefully
removed the snow and disclosed a number of bronze
wreaths : from Lady Shackleton and from numerous
friends and relatives at home. There were others from
the Uruguayan Republic, the British residents in Uru-
guay, the Freemasons of Uruguay and the French Mari-
time Society. Two others hang in the little church,
placed there by Hussey : one from His Majesty King
George V and the British people, the other from his
old schoolfellows resident in South America. There
was also the flower wreath placed with such kindly
thought by the doctor's wife, Mrs. Aarberg.
The graveyard is a simple little place. In it are
already a few crosses, some of them very old, mute
reminders of forgotten tragedies. Four of them mark
the resting-places of officers and men of the sailing ship
Esther, of London. They had died of typhus fever
and were buried here in 1846. There is one inscribed
to W. H. Dyke, Surgeon, who in his devotion to duty
South Georgia 195
in attending the sick had also contracted the disease and
died. There are some newer crosses erected to Nor-
wegian whalers who had lost their lives in the arduous
calling which brings them to these stormy waters. All
of them are the graves of strong men.
It is a fitting environment. Gritviken is a romantic
spot. All around are big mountains, bold in outline
and snow-covered. Below lies one of the most perfect
little harbours in the world, at times disturbed by the
fierce winds from the hills and lashed by the gusty
squalls to a mass of flying spume and spindrift. Often
it lies calm and peaceful, bathed in glorious sunshine
and reflecting in its deeps the high peaks around, whilst
the sea-birds, " souls of old mariners," circle in sweep-
ing flights above its surface and fill the air with the
melancholy of their cries. An ideal resting-place this
for the great explorer who felt, more than most men, the
glamour of such surroundings.
So we said good-bye to the " Old Boss," and I who
have served with him through four expeditions know
that if he could have chosen his own resting-place it
would have been just here.
Here — here*s his place, where meteors shoot, clouds form,
Ligihtnings are loosened,
Stars come and g-o! Let joy break with the storm,
Peace let the dew send !
Lofty designs must close in like effects :
Loftily lying",
Leave him — still loftier than the world suspects.
Living and dying. —Robert Browning.
We had still some work to do before finally setting
course for Tristan da Cunha.
Before leaving Gritviken I entrusted our last lot of
196 Shackleton's Last Voyage
letters and messages for home to Mr. Binnie, the magis-
trate, who, together with the other Government repre-
sentatives on the island, had been very helpful to us in
many ways.
We went alongside the little pier where we hardened
up' the water tanks. Mr. Jacobsen paid a last visit to
the ship and presented us with a parting present in the
form of a fine young sow, which was carried aboard in
a box, receiving the excited attentions of Query. I did
not kill her at once, intending to keep and feed her up
so that we might have some fresh meat when at sea.
Someone gave her the name " Bridget," and so she was
known until her demise some weeks later at the hands
of Dell, who did our butchering.
We received also from Mr. Jacobsen some packets of
dried Swedish oaten cakes, which were of particular
interest in that they had formed part of the stores of
Filchner's German expedition which had come to grief
and been abandoned here. They were still, after eleven
years, in excellent condition.
We left on May 7th and had been some hours at
sea when we discovered a stowaway aboard. This was
'' Micky," a small black-and-white dog belonging to
Mr. Binnie, the magistrate. He was discovered by
Macklin who, whilst descending into the hold, stepped
in the darkness upon something which moved and yelped
and which proved, upon being dragged to the light for
inspection, to be this animal. We lavished upon him
no loving remarks, but knowing that Mr. Binnie set
great store by him I put back and in the small hours of
the morning sent Jeffrey with the boat to put him ashore,
having previously tied to his neck a message to Binnie,
* A sea term, meaning that we filled the tanks full to the top.
South Georgia 197
explaining his disappearance and requesting him as a
magistrate to award a punishment of at least three days
jail for having caused us so much trouble and loss of
time.
On May 8th we visited Royal Bay and Moltke
Harbour, where the German Transit of Venus Expedi-
tion had had a station in 1882. One of the huts then
set up is still standing.
The glacier running into this harbour is of great
geological interest because in the last forty years it has
advanced about a mile and receded to its original posi-
tion. I sent the boat ashore with Jeffrey, Macklin and
Ross to find suitable landings for the scientific parties.
There was a heavy surf running which made the opera-
tion difficult, but they succeeded in putting Douglas with
Carr and Argles on to a steep rocky beach which ran
along the side of the harbour. Marr, still very inexperi-
enced in boat work, fell overboard during the process
and was rolled over and over in the surf, to be eventually
cast upon the beach ; but he escaped with nothing worse
than a ducking — which is not a joke in these tempera-
tures. Wilkins, who with Marr had wished to land on
the beach at the side of the glacier, was unable to
do so.
I sent Macklin, Mcllroy, Marr and Green to catch
as many fish as possible for taking away with us. Find-
ing a suitable spot at the edge of a belt of kelp, they
secured a good haul and brought back enough to last
for several days, for in these temperatures there was not
much fear of its going bad.
Shortly before dark I recalled all hands, who were
picked up and brought off safely.
Before leaving, Worsley took a line of soundings
198 Shackleton's Last Voyage
along the front of the glacier. This was our last work
in South Georgia.
This remote island has drawn to it scientists from all
nations, yet there remains much to interest the investi-
gators of to-day. During our stay we made a great
number of observations and collected a mass of data
which when sorted and worked out fully will, I hope,
be of great interest to the scientific world.
We now put to sea and set course for Tristan da
Cunha. As we left the bay the moon came out — a big
golden moon which cast a broad pathway on the sea and
bathed the huge glaciers and the snow-covered moun-
tains and valleys in a soft golden glow. Our last sight
of South Georgia was a very beautiful one, and my last
thoughts as I gazed back over our rippling wake, gleam-
ing in the moonlight with brighter phosphorescence, were
of my comrade who stayed there, and I hoped for his
sake that our completed enterprise would be the success
that he himself would have made it.
CHAPTER X
THE TRISTAN DA CUNHA GROUP
FROM South Georgia we proceeded first in a
northerly direction in order to get into the belt of
prevailing westerlies which would give us a fair quarterly
wind for Tristan da Cunha.
Whilst still in the vicinity of the island a number
of soundings were carried out by Worsley and his
assistants.
From the first we had bad weather, and the winds
increased in force during the next few days until, on
Friday, May 12th, so fierce a gale was blowing that I
was compelled to take in sail and heave to. We had a
most uncomfortable time, though we could expect
nothing less since we were now in the " Roaring
Forties."
Macklin's diary of May 13th is fairly descriptive of
conditions about this time :
Had the middle watch. Heavy seas were run-
ning and the wind was strong with violent squalls
of rain and snow. It was a dirty night. The Quest
rolled worse than anything I have ever known, with
staggering jerks that made it impossible to let go a
support.
At times the ship sagged down so heavily to
leeward that my heart was in my mouth, for it seemed
as if she could never recover herself. Peering to
199
200 Shackleton's Last Voyage
windward as the great seas bore down upon us I was
reminded of Kipling's
Be well assured that on our side
The abiding- oceans fig"ht,
Though headlong wind and heaping tide
Make us their sport to-night.
which is comforting to know. He always seems to
catch just the right expression, as :
Out of the mist into the mirk
The glimmering combers roll.
Almost these mindless waters work
As though they had a soul —
However, as the Boss used to say : " When things are
bad any change is likely to be for the better." We
pour some vile epithets upon the head of poor old
Quest, but she really does not deserve them, for she
is always at her best when things are bad. Com-
mander Wild says she is like a woman, quoting some-
thing about *' Women in our hours of ease, perfidious,
fickle, hard to please ! " I suppose he knows all
about it. Anyway, she has brought us through what
might well have caused many a more stately ship to
founder. Things have remained much the same
during the day — water keeps coming over the gun-
wales in huge masses and hundreds of tons pass
hourly across " The Rubicon," as we call the wash
of water in the waist of her. Occasionally big green
seas come aboard en masse, flooding the whole ship,
and find their way everywhere, through cracks in the
doors, spirting through the keyholes and through the
ventilators, which, with all the ports tightly closed,
must be kept open.
Macklin places in my mouth an incorrect rendering
which I would never apply to the gentler sex, but which
is certainly very appropriate to the Quest.
The Tristan da Cunha Group 201
" Bridget," the pig which was presented to us by Mr.
Jacobsen on leaving South Georgia, had a very miser-
able time, and I was almost giving instructions to have
it killed right away. It was totally unable to keep its
footing on the slippery deck and it was very sea-sick.
I handed it over to the care of McLeod, who found it a
snug berth in the bathroom, where it quickly recovered
its spirits and began to develop an insatiable appetite.
In passing I may mention that the bathroom, so-
called, was a small recess containing a tub situated at
the side of the engine-room and opening into the star-
board alleyway. It was always warm from the heat of
the engines and we used it chiefly as a drying-room for
clothes. It was used occasionally also on very cold
nights as a warming-room for chilled night-watchmen.
We possessed nothing so luxurious as a real bathroom,
and, sinking modesty, we bathed ourselves from a bucket
on deck. In the very cold weather those who were able
to ingratiate themselves with Kerr, the chief engineer,
could sometimes take their tub in front of the furnace
fires. This was a real luxury.
I was glad to notice on May 14th a falling off of
both wind and sea, and Mcllroy predicted a spell of
finer weather. On the 15th it was distinctly calmer and
we were able to continue the work on deck, which in a
ship at sea is interminable, but which the heavier weather
had compelled us to suspend temporarily. " Bridget "
emerged from her retreat and started to move about the
deck, where she quickly made friends with Query. It
was highly amusing to watch the antics of the two of
them. She also started to make friendships amongst
the hands — notably with Green, whom she quickly
learned to regard as the source of her food supply. At
202 Shackleton's Last Voyage
times she became too friendly, for she began to take an
interest in the cabins and wardroom. Another bad
habit was that of moving about the decks at night, where
she had repeated collisions with the men working the
sails.
In spite of the improvement there was still a big
enough sea to cause the Quest to roll heavily, and on
the 1 8th we nearly had a nasty accident.
I had set a party, composed of Macklin, Mcllroy,
Jeffrey, Carr and Marr, to hoisting up from the lower
hold a number of sacks of beans which had got wet and
become offensive. The work, which was hard and diffi-
cult on account of the awkward motion, was being
carried out, and to clear a space Macklin had sent up
a large heavy ice-basket full of sundry stores, the whole
weighing many hundredweights. Carr was on deck, and
had received the basket when the ship gave an unusually
heavy lurch. Both he and the basket were shot to the
opening, and though he was able to save himself the
basket fell with a crash into the hold where the men
were working. Carr yelled a warning and they man-
aged to leap clear, receiving the impact of some of the
cases but escaping a direct blow. This is but one
example of many " incidents " of the kind that occurred
throughout the trip.
Worsley, Jeffrey, Carr, Macklin, Kerr and Green all
at separate times fell through the hatch, and that none
of them received serious injury is remarkable. I was
fully prepared on any day to witness some accident,
and that so few occurred can only be due to the special
Providence that guards children, drunken men and
sailors. " There's a sweet little cherub that sits up
aloft, looks after the soul of poor Jack " (sea song).
The Tristan da Cunha Group 203
Leaving the " Roaring Forties/' the air became
milder and the temperature rose, so that we were able
once more to go about without heavy clothing and could
cast aside mufflers, mitts and woollen caps.
We sighted Inaccessible Island just after midnight
on May 19th. It appeared as a high mass with dimly
marked outline obscured at the top by dark banks of
cloud. As we came abreast of it the moon came out,
creating a very weird effect. The island itself stood
out in deep, almost Stygian, blackness, and from its
summit smoke seemed to be belching in great rolling
masses. High above all was the moon, showing fitfully
from between scudding clouds, and in front, accentuat-
ing the effect, was a rippling silvery pathway. It
reminded me of a scene from Dante's Inferno.
I now set course direct for Tristan da Cunha, where
we arrived about daybreak.
The summit of the island was entirely obscured by
heavy clouds and rain fell thickly, so that everything
had a dreary aspect. As the light increased we were
able to pick out the little cascade which gives a good
mark for the anchorage and dropped our anchor in 7^
fathoms. Looking ashore I saw a number of small,
thatched houses situated on a piece of flat ground
bounded on the side of the sea by short steep cliffs.
This was the settlement where the whole population of
the island lived. As we saw it now, on this soaking early
morning, it might have been a dead village, for there
was no sign of life, either beast or human, not a wreath
of smoke ascended from the chimneys, and nothing at
all stirred. To attract attention I blew a blast on the
steam whistle, when there was an immediate change.
The people came running from their cottages and the
204 Shackleton's Last Voyage
settlement sprang to life. The men launched their
boats and came off to us. The sailor's eye was at once
attracted by the boats, which are made of canvas over
a wooden framework. The men themselves were an
uncouth lot. They were very excited and talked a
great deal in thin jabbering voices. They hastened to
board us and started at once to ask for things. They
proved to be a great nuisance, so I sent them all ashore,
retaining only one man, Robert Glass, who seemed to
be the most intelligent of them. I learnt from him that
the islanders were very destitute. He asked in the
name of the community for our help and, realizing that
they were indeed in a bad way, I determined in the
name of Mr. Rowett, who I felt sure would sympathize
with my action, to give them all the relief I could.
I gave instructions to Worsley to see what could be
done for them in the way of deck gear, nails, canvas,
rope, paint, etc., things of which they were in great
need, and told Macklin to find out what could be spared
in the way of food and general equipment.
We had brought fifteen bags of letter and parcel
mail from England for these islanders; we had on board
also a large number of packages and cases which
Macklin, who had been compelled to find room for
them in the sorely restricted space at his disposal, was
pleased at the prospect of being able to hand over.
They included a large gramophone, a gift from the
^olian Company, and some Bovril sent by the firm as
a present to the islanders.
As I was anxious to learn all I could about these
people, their ways and customs and mode of life
generally, I detailed Macklin to go ashore for this pur*
pose. I also g^ave him instructions to take a complete
The Tristan da Cunha Group 205
census, which might be of use to the Cape Government.
He remained there while the ship visited Nightingale
and Inaccessible Islands, and as I have asked him to
write his own account, to avoid repetition I will refrain
from any further description of Tristan da Cunha
itself.
The Tristan da Cunha group of islands includes
the three just mentioned and two smaller islets known
as Middle and Stoltenhoff respectively. They lie
roughly in latitude 37 south and 12 west longitude, and
they are approximately 4,000 miles from the Cape of
Good Hope. Tristan is probably the most isolated
inhabited island in the world.
The group was discovered by the Portuguese
admiral whose name they bear, in 1506. The Dutch,
at the time of their settlement in the Cape Colony,
examined it with a view to making it a naval station.
The East India Company also sent a ship to see if it
would be worth while forming a settlement there. No
one lived there, however, till early in the eighteenth
century, when a man named Thomas Currie landed and
decided to remain. He was joined by two American
whalers, named Lambert and Williams respectively.
There is a vague report, too, of a Spanish boy having
somehow or other joined the party. Lambert and
Williams were drowned whilst making a visit to In-
accessible Island. What happened to the other is not
clear. The history of the present settlement is dealt
with in the following chapter.
A British naval officer, named Nightingale, visited
the group in 1760, and the crew of a sealing vessel,
under command of John Patten, spent six months about
the islands, collecting the skins of fur seals. The first
2o6 Shackleton's Last Voyage
accurate survey was made by the hydrographic staff of
the Challenger, which in the course of her historic
voyage round the world spent a short time here in
All hands having been recalled from the shore,
we left Tristan da Cunha at 7.30 p.m. on May
20th and proceeded in the direction of Inaccessible
Island, which loomed up in the dark ahead of us
about midnight. We reduced speed, waiting till
daylight should give us a chance to see what we were
doing.
I took with me on the Quest three of the inhabitants
of Tristan da Cunha to act as pilots and guides about
the islands. They were Bob Glass, his brother John
Glass, and Henry Green.
In the early hours of the morning the wind increased
and blew from the north-east with very heavy rain
squalls. A landing on Inaccessible Island seemed
quite impossible, so I ran for shelter under the south-
west end of Nightingale Island, which we reached at
about 7 A.M. I put out the surf boat and sent ashore
a party, composed of Wilkins and Marr, for natural
history work, and Douglas and Carr for geological pur-
poses. Jeffrey was in charge of the boat, and I sent
with him Henry Green and John Glass. They effected
a landing on the south-east corner of the island, at a
point where the rock rose sheer from the water, but
where there was a rough ledge, on which they managed
to get a footing and place their equipment, which con-
sisted of theodolites, guns, pickaxes, bags, etc.
Here the parties separated, John Glass accompany-
ing Wilkins, whilst Henry Green acted as guide to the
geologists.
The Tristan da Cunha Group 207
Marr writes in his diary :
We climbed a short way along the jagged rocks
with our baggage and came to a flat table-like area
backed by high cliffs with gigantic boulders at their
base. The other party went right on up a narrow
gully with the intention of inspecting a guano patch
at the far side of the island. We remained here for
a short space whilst Wilkins shot a number of birds
and then followed up the hill. From the ship we
had thought that this would be easy going up a grassy
slope. We were sadly disillusioned, however, for the
grass was rank tussock and grew high above our
heads, from six to ten feet in length, and was ex-
tremely difficult to break through. Underfoot the
ground was rotten and soaking, and at every step
it gave way and we sank knee-deep and further. Mr.
Wilkins kept shooting birds on the way up, but we
had great difficulty in finding them in the grass. We
were drenched to the skin by the time we arrived at
the top, where there was open land covered with small
trees and loose rocks and a peculiar round-bladed
grass which grew in close tufts very difficult to walk
upon. Here more birds were shot, and we started on
the return journey, sliding down the soaking rotten
earth, stumbling blindly through the long grass and
slipping into the holes.
On reaching the bottom the party returned in the
boat to the ship without waiting for the geologists.
The latter had crossed the col to the northern slopes,
finding, like the others, that the going was very hard on
account of the tussock grass. " These (grass reeds)
grow to about eight feet high," says one of the party,
2o8 Shackleton's Last Voyage
*' and are about half an inch in diameter, and are so
dense that a man five feet away is invisible." Examina-
tions were made and survey work was carried out, and
when it was finished the party set off back to the landing-
place. Douglas writes :
. . . Upon reaching a small eminence we saw the
Quest steaming around the north-east point. This
was one of the few occasions when she added to the
picture and not, through the ugliness of her lines,
detracted from it. In the brilliant sunshine as she
came into the mouth of the passage between Nightin-
gale and Middle Islands, gently dipping in the north-
east swell but still rolling, she made a very pretty
picture.
I suppose Douglas is right when he remarks that the
Quest is not a beautiful ship, for her lines certainly
cannot be described as yacht-like. Yet as my affection
for her grew she appeared more and more beautiful in
my eyes, till, thinking of her in retrospect, I have almost
a feeling of resentment at any such criticism. After
all, beauty is largely a matter of what we are educated
to regard as such, and our ideas change, as witness what
are to us to-day the extraordinary " fashions " of only
fifty years ago ! The Quest is neither stately nor grace-
ful, but she certainly has a beauty of her own. What-
" she "has not?
The geological party also was safely taken off, and
we lay off for the night about a mile from the land. In
the morning I brought the ship closer in and, feeling
my way carefully with the hand-lead, proceeded to the
north of Nightingale Island. I was anxious to put
Douglas ashore on Middle Island, and sent off the boat
THE SETTLEMENT AT TRISTAN DA CUNHA FROM THE SEA
VIEW OF THE SETTLEMENT FROM THE EAST
Photo: Dr. Macklin
LANDING AT BIG HIiACH. TRISTAN DA CUNHA
Photos: Dr. Macklin
A TRISTAN BULLOCK CART
The Tristan da Cunha Group 209
with Jeffrey, Dell and the three islanders. Douglas
and Henry Green effected a landing, and in the mean-
time I dropped anchor in the passage where we were
in shelter, the wind having come round to the west.
Whilst waiting here we fished for sharks, which abound
in considerable quantity and of which we caught
several. They were of little use, but I have the
sailor's hatred of these rapacious brutes and had no
compunction in destroying as many of them as my
men could catch.
During the afternoon a strong wind blew up, and
Jeffrey and Dell had the greatest difficulty in getting in
to the island to pick up the party. During the more
violent squalls they shipped oars and clung to the kelp
which grows about here in long, strong strands. Dell
describes this as the worst row he had ever experienced.
They succeeded eventually and returned with the party
to the ship.
Weather conditions at this time of year are not very
suitable for carrying out an extensive survey and ex-
amination, and I was unable to allow Douglas any great
opportunity for accurate work. He made good use of
his few chances, however, and his observations are likely
to prove of value.
A landing (was effected) at the south-east corner
(of Nightingale) where a platform of lava extends
from the foot of the low col which forms the easiest
passage to the north of the island. The island is
rectangular in plan, about one mile by three-quarters.
The south shore is bounded by fairly high cliffs, ex-
cept for one or two small platforms. The east shore
is also high, and the highest point of the island rises
210 Shackleton's Last Voyage
here in very steep slopes. The col above mentioned
is the low feature joining the high peak with the
other high points to the west and interior of the island.
It is probable that the island was once a volcano, as
the central depression and various agglomeritic occur-
rences would testify. From the centre the island
slopes down gradually towards the north, ending in
low cliffs of about thirty feet high.
Nightingale Island has a single sharp peak about
2,000 feet high. Middle Island lies to the north, and is
separated from it by a passage half a mile in width.
Douglas says :
. . . The island owes its existence to two causes —
first the lavas from Nightingale . . . must have ex-
tended well to the north, and secondly, there has been
local out-welling of lava. The latter lava is extremely
hard and has formed the col which has resisted the
action of the sea. The first lava is so soft that it is
easily worn away, which accounts for its separation
from Nightingale. The island is comparatively small,
being less than half a mile on its longest axis. Being
close to Nightingale its flora is similar. The island
does not rise higher than two hundred feet, and is girt
with vertical cliffs on the west, north and east sides.
The landing is at the south-east point, and there is a
large cave at the most southerly point.
The island of Stoltenhoff, a little more than half
a mile distant, is a huge flat-topped rock rising from
the water for two hundred feet. No landing possible.
The island is probably an extension of " Middle " to
the north, but may represent another separate centre
of activity.
The Tristan da Cunha Group 211
We remained at anchor for the night in the passage
between Nightingale and Middle Islands, and sailed at
4 A.M. for Inaccessible Island.
This island has been the scene of several shipwrecks,
including that of the Blendon Hall in 182 1. It does
not belie its name, for as we approached it certainly
looked inaccessible enough. No low land is apparent,
and the whole rises sheer from the sea on every side.
The weather was so uncertain that when sending the
party of scientists ashore I gave instructions that stores
sufficient for several days should be taken in the boat
in case it should be impossible to pick the men up when
we wanted to. The party took also biological and geo-
logical gear, surveying instruments, two good Alpine
axes and a coil of good Alpine rope.
A landing was effected near the north-east corner,
largely through the help of the Tristan islanders, whose
intimate local knowledge proved of the greatest value
during the whole time we spent about these islands.
The beach was steep and stony, and big curling seas
were breaking on it. Intervals of comparative calm
occur, and by taking advantage of them a boat can be
fairly easily beached. The landing effected and the
gear removed, the boat was hauled up whilst the party
went about their work. The beach is about a mile long
and forms a very narrow strip, behind which the cliffs
rise vertically for an average height of from three to
four hundred feet. Half a mile to the south-east of the
landing-place a narrow waterfall drops in a cascade over
the edge of the cliff about three hundred and fifty feet
up and has hollowed out a deep pool below. The ascent
to the summit lies beyond this, and here Douglas, with
John Glass and Henry Green, started the climb. These
212 Shackleton's Last Voyage
two islanders are strong, active, nimble men and won-
derful climbers. Douglas gave them the greatest praise,
and said that but for their assistance he could never
have attained the summit. On one occasion during the
descent they had to lower him over a particularly steep
part with the rope. Douglas writes :
Inaccessible Island is pear-shaped, the longer axis
being about three miles and the shorter two and a half
miles. The land rises around the island in almost
vertical cliffs about five hundred feet high. On the
south and south-east there is a gradual slope up to
the highest point, which is about 1,500 feet above
sea level. On the north and north-west sides the rim
continues to rise to about 1,300 feet, and then it slopes
down towards the interior and the foot of the slope
of the central cone. In fact, it is a great caldera,
with the southern side blown out and having a central
small cone.
The interior is really a beautiful landscape of
broken country, clad in verdure with a stream running
through it.
Wilkins, assisted by Carr and Marr, carried out
natural history investigations on the lower slope and
shot a number of birds for preparation as museum
specimens.
During the years 1871-73 two brothers, Germans
named Stoltenhoff, lived here. They gave their name
to Stoltenhoff Island. Nightingale Island derives its
name from the British navigator who visited it in
1760.
All the islands of the Tristan da Cunha group have
a similar flora and fauna. They are covered in parts
The Tristan da Cunha Group 213
with tussock grass (sfartina arundinacea) and bracken.
One small tree, the ** Island tree " {phylica nitida),
grows at levels up to about 2,000 feet. The smaller
plants include twenty-nine species of flowering plants
and twenty-six ferns and lycopods. Numerous seabirds
nest on the islands, including mollymauks, terns, sea-
hens or skua gulls, prions, black eaglets, " Pediunkers,''
and several kinds of petrel. On the rocky beaches we
saw a number of small land birds, one species of which
resembled a thrush and the other a finch. They were
very tame and could be easily caught. The islanders
showed us several rookeries where rockhopper penguins
congregate in large numbers during the nesting season.
The rockhopper is a pretty bird with a crest of yellow
and black feathers. Its call is rather deep and harsh —
" Aloh-ha ! " as nearly as I can write it.
But for the difficulty of landing Inaccessible Island
would be almost as suitable a spot for a small settlement
as Tristan da Cunha. A few cattle are kept there. The
islanders from Tristan make frequent visits in their
boats. Experience has taught them what are the most
suitable weather conditions for effecting a landing. It
appears that the winds follow a fairly definite cycle,
and the islanders can predict with some degree of
certainty the conditions likely to be met with in the
next few days.
One has to give the islanders credit for their boat-
manship, for their craft are frail and require the most
careful handling to prevent their being stove in.
Of the men taken with us on the Quest, Henry Green
and John Glass had never been away from the islands.
They were really two extremely nice men. Douglas
writes of Henry Green who accompanied him :
214 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Henry proved to be a delightfully refreshing
character. His simple outlook on life, facts being
facts to him and needing no reason, the pride he took
in his ability to climb and find his way over the
islands, notwithstanding his years, and his love of
his own hearth, marked him out as one of the best, if
not the best, of those who live on Tristan.
What a strange life they lead, passing day after day
of their long lives in this restricted environment with
the same outlook, amongst the same people and with
only occasionally the sight of a new face, which passing,
never returns, for no one ever goes back to Tristan. As
Macklin shows, their longevity is remarkable; few seem
to die under ninety years of age.
I returned to the settlement via the southern side of
Tristan to enable Worsley to carry out a series of sound-
ings, and arrived there at daybreak on May 24th. We
proceeded in through the kelp and came to anchor.
I allowed most of the hands ashore for the day, and
detailed a party to install a portable wireless receiving
apparatus which Mr. Rogers, the missionary, had brought
from Cape Town. One of the masts for the aerials
broke whilst being erected, and the pieces fell amongst
a crowd of islanders who had gathered to watch pro-
ceedings, causing them to scamper wildly in all direc-
tions. Mr. Rogers told me that he had not learned the
code, and as there are several mechanical details to be
mastered it is doubtful if the apparatus is likely to be
of great value.
I was up before daybreak on May 25th, to find that
the wind had come round to the west and a strong swell
had started to run into the anchorage. I saw that the
The Tristan da Cunha Group 215
sooner we were off the better, and blew the steam whistle
for the recall of those who had spent the night ashore.
When I had told Glass on our arrival that I would be
able to leave a considerable amount of general supplies
for the islanders, he had said that he did not think they
had stock enough on the island to pay for it. When I
replied that I did not require any payment, he was most
agreeably surprised, and promised to send us two or
three good sheep and some fresh potatoes. I had also
asked for a number of geese and poultry with the idea of
placing them on Gough Island in the hope that they
would settle there and breed.
The blowing of the steam whistle caused the most
marked excitement amongst the islanders, who came
rushing to their boats, which they launched, and, having
rowed out to us, crowded aboard in dozens. Immedi-
ately there was a noise like babel let loose. Many of
them approached Bob Glass, saying : " Can't you get
nothing more out of them. Bob ? " As I had emptied
the holds and stripped the ship of everything I could
spare, and in the name of Mr. Rowett given all the
relief I could to these people, I was not very well
pleased at their attitude. On my asking for the sheep
and potatoes and the live stock for Gough Island they
suddenly remembered that they owed us something in
return, and dragged up from the bottom of the boat what
looked for all the world like two large and skinny
rabbits. They proved to be sheep, the most miserable
creatures I had ever set eyes on. They dumped aboard
also two bags of potatoes which in size resembled
marbles and some very indifferent-looking geese and
poultry. They seemed to lose all restraint and begged
for anything which caught their eye or their fancy, each
2i6 Shackleton's Last Voyage
man trying to get in his request before his neighbour or
endeavouring to overshout him. There were no longer
any requests on behalf of the community, each man
trying to scrounge what he could for himself. A boat-
load containing some of the steadier men brought off
six bags of mail, six bales of feathers and about nine
bags of potatoes. These were dumped over our rail,
and when I sent Macklin to find out what it was they
had put aboard, they replied that they were parcels which
they wished delivered to their friends in Cape Town
who would send them something in return. These
casual folk had made no arrangements and had not even
addressed them sufficiently.
Rain had started to fall and Macklin, who knowing
nothing of their coming had not prepared a place for
them in the hold, turned to a group of the islanders and
asked for some help to put the bales in the shelter of the
alleyway, where they would be protected from the rain.
Not a man stirred, each saying it had nothing to do with
him. Macklin had to search out each man in turn to
help with his own bag for none of them would touch
anything that did not belong to him personally. We
were all thoroughly disgusted with their behaviour, and
on this last morning they undid any good impression
we had gained of them whilst ashore.
One group of men brought me some bundles of
whalebone which they asked me to buy for twenty
pounds. As I had no idea of the value of the stuff I
could not do it, but offered to take it to Cape Town and
hand it over for disposal and have the value sent them
in general goods. This arrangement they regarded with
suspicion and tried hard to induce me to barter with
them. It was a curious thing that all the islanders
The Tristan da Cunha Group 217
seemed to think that we had a mysterious bottomless
store from which we could go on supplying quantities
of pipes, tobacco, foodstuffs, etc. etc., in exchange for
the most valueless trash. Knowing that as a community
they stood in great need of copper nails for their boats
I offered them a seven-pound bag, our all, which we
could ill spare. No one man would burden himself
with this on behalf of the community and it was finally
left aboard.
I made full allowances for the limitations of these
people, but at last they became so troublesome that I
ordered them back to their boats and got ready to put
to sea. Just before the last lot left some of the older
men came to me and thanked me for what we had been
able to do. They included Henry Green, John Glass,
Tom Rogers, Old Sam Swaine and Lavarello, the
Italian. I told them that they must not thank me alto-
gether, for they owed what I had given them to a man
named John Rowett far across the sea in England.
John Glass said in his high piping voice : '* You will
see Mr. Rowett again.? Then tell him that he is the
koindest man that I ever know." I promised I would.
Bob Glass also brought me a letter which he wanted
me to send to Mr. Rowett for him. In return I thanked
them, etc. etc. Just before leaving I received a long
letter from the missionary Mr. Rogers, in which he
expressed the appreciation of the islanders and sent
a message of gratitude to Mr. Rowett.
Though very disgusted at the time with the behaviour
of these people, I felt on more mature consideration
that one could not fairly judge them by instances like
this. They are ignorant, shut off almost completely
from the world, horribly limited in outlook, and they
2i8 Shackleton's Last Voyage
realized that at this moment there was slipping away
from them the only possible source of acquiring the
many things they so badly needed. Indeed, looking
back on the whole visit to Tristan da Cunha, I am sur-
prised that they were not much more wild and uncivilized
than we found them, and they were, I believe, at any
rate the older men among them, really grateful for what
we had been able to do.
I think their characters may be somewhat roughly
summed up by describing them as " a lot of grown-up
children."
CHAPTER XI
TRISTAN DA CUNHA'
WE arrived at Tristan da Cunha on May 20th,
1922, just as dawn was breaking. A fine rain
was falling and all the upper part of the island was
shrouded in mist. The islanders seemed to be still in
bed, for we saw no signs of activity until Commander
Wild blew the steam whistle, which brought them run-
ning from their houses in haste, evidently yery excited,
for we saw them pointing towards us. The men ran
down a steep winding path leading to a beach of black
sand where a number of boats were drawn up. They
launched the boats and came out towards us as fast as
they could row.
At first sight the people presented a curious
spectacle. They were rather a wild-looking lot, and
were clothed in every conceivable kind of male attire,
which seemed to be the cast-off clothing of sailors who
had called at the island. One man in particular was
wearing the queerest mixture : an evening dress jacket,
striped cotton shirt, dungaree trousers, whilst on his
head was an officer's peaked cap !
The majority of them were white, but many showed
signs of a coloured ancestry in a dusky complexion and
features of a distinctly negroid type.
Their boats attracted our attention, for they are
made of canvas over a framework of wood. These are
ingenious pieces of work and built on very shapely lines.
* Dr. Macklin's account.
219
220 Shackleton's Last Voyage
The canvas is begged from passing ships. The cross-
pieces are made from the branches of small, stunted
apple trees which are grown on the island, but for the
pieces which form the keel and the main part of the
frame they are dependent on chance bits of driftwood
thrown up on the beaches.
On this day there was a considerable swell running,
which made it dangerous for more than one boat to come
alongside at a time, the others lying off at a safe distance.
It was apparent that the islanders did not care to submit
their frail craft to any more bumping than was necessary.
In their excitement they made a tremendous noise, shout-
ing to each other in voices which were curiously thin
and high-pitched.
As soon as the first boat came alongside a strong
active man with a cheery face leapt on to our gunwale
and clambered aboard. He told us his name was John
Glass, and he seized those of us whom he could reach
in turn by the hand, exclaiming in a piping voice that
contrasted strangely with his powerful frame : " I'm glad
to see you all. How are you.'* Have you had a good
trip ? " Another man, taller and more slimly built,
quickly followed him and made his way to the bridge.
He was wearing an old khaki overcoat, and was shod
on one foot with a worn-out leather boot and on the other
with a sort of moccasin made of cowskin. Several others
came aboard and started at once to ask for things, say-
ing : " Say, Mister, you ain't got an old pair of boots,
have you ? " or " Mister, I'm building a boat — can you
spare a few nails? " " Mister, can I have a piece of salt
beef ? " — always the prefix of " Mister," said in a most
ingratiating tone. The requests were made to anybody
whom they encountered, no matter how busily engaged.
Tristan da Cunha 221
When told to " Wait a little and we'll see what can be
done," they would say, for example, " Well, my name's
Swaine — young Sam Swaine, son of old Sam Swaine.
You won't forget, will you ? " Often two or three of
them bombarded one man at the same time, when they
raised their voices, both in volume and pitch. They
made themselves such a general nuisance in this way
and, together with those in the boats, who kept calling
continually to those aboard, raised such a pandemonium
that Commander Wild approached John Glass and
asked him if there was a " head-man *' of the island or
recognized representative of the community.
John Glass promptly replied, "I am ! " but con-
tinued in the same breath, " There ain't no head-man
now. Bob Glass, my brother — that's him on the bridge
— he's head-man. Anyways, he's the best one for you
to talk to. He's got the larnin' ! " Having " got the
larnin' " meant that he could read and write.
Bob Glass was told to remain on the ship. The rest
were packed off into their boats and sent ashore to await
the blowing of the steam whistle as a signal for their
return. Glass, the tall, slim man who had made for the
bridge, proved to be an intelligent fellow. We asked
him to have breakfast with us. He accepted the invita-
tion without embarrassment, and showed himself much
more at ease than one would have expected from any-
one living in so remote a part of the world.
From him Commander Wild learnt that there had
been only one ship to the island in the last eighteen
months — a Japanese steamer, which had brought a
missionary and his wife, but which had immediately pro-
ceeded without letting them have supplies of any kind.
Glass had made his way to the captain in the hope that
222 Shackleton's Last Voyage
an explanation of their needs and of their peculiar
situation might induce him to allow them some stores,
but he was promptly ordered off the ship. The captain,
relenting a little at the last moment, gave him as a
personal present a bundle of coloured postcards, all of
them with the same picture — a very highly coloured
impressionistic view of Fuji-yama, the sacred mountain
of Japan ! They had received quite a considerable mail
from people in the outside world who took an interest
in this isolated community, but, as Glass remarked con-
temptuously, " Chiefly clothes for the womenfolk."
The missionary had brought some supplies, but, accord-
ing to our informant, hardly enough for himself and his
wife. The people were at the present time very badly
off and were, indeed, destitute of what elsewhere might
well be considered absolute essentials, such as articles
of clothing, cooking and table utensils, wood, canvas for
the upkeep of their boats, nails, tools, rope, wire, etc.
For a long time they had been without luxuries in the
way of food, such as tea, sugar, flour or biscuit, and
commodities such as soap, .candles, etc.
In the old days, said Glass, the settlement had been
much better off, for ships had appeared within reach of
their boats many times a year, and with them they had
bartered live stock and potatoes, produced on the island,
for what they themselves required in the way of general
commodities. Nowadays, ships seemed to have entirely
left the ocean, and they were in a bad way.
He and his brother, John Glass, are direct descend-
ants of Corporal William Glass, who founded the settle-
ment. He accounted for his " larnin' " and general
knowledge of conditions by the fact that he had been
away from the island for eighteen years, had apparently
Tristan da Cunha 223
travelled a good deal on one job and another, and mixed
with people. During the South African war he had
served with Kitchener's Scouts, and had received the
Queen's medal. We gathered that he was not lacking
in common sense and had a pretty shrewd knowledge
of the value of things.
Of the truth of his statements with regard to the
condition of the community there could be little doubt,
and a yisit to the settlement made later in the day
showed that he had not exaggerated. They made an
earnest appeal to us for help, and Commander Wild
decided to do all that was in his power to alleviate their
hardships.
We had, fortunately, on board a considerable
quantity of bulk stores in the way of biscuits, flour,
Brazilian meal, beans, etc., which had been kept in
reserve in view of the possibility of our being frozen in
and compelled to winter in the Antarctic. These Com-
mander Wild offered to Glass, with as much as could be
spared from our stores of a wide variety of foods, such
as tea, sugar, coffee, cocoa, dried milk, Quaker oats,
lentils, split peas, jam, chocolate, cheese, tinned meats,
tinned fish, salt beef, candles, matches and soap. We
gave them also from the deck stores a quantity of
planking, rope, wire, nails, paint, canvas, and two
good spars.
In addition to this we had brought with us in the ship
a large letter and parcel mail and numerous packages
sent privately for the islanders, including several sent in
gratitude by a sailor who had been shipwrecked there and
who had been very kindly treated. We had a busy day
getting all these goods out of the hold and stacking
them along the ship's side ready to be placed in the
224 Shackleton's Last Voyage
boats. When all was ready we signalled the return of
the others, who, as soon as they had approached to within
a measurable distance of the ship, started shouting in-
numerable questions to Bob Glass. The purport of them
all was : " What are they going to give us ? "
Glass clambered on to the gunwale of the ship and
started shouting back in a high, piping voice. We saw
their faces, which had worn a look of anxiety, suddenly
break into smiles when they heard what we could do,
and they became like a lot of schoolboys informed of
a holiday, shouting gleefully to each other and singing
snatches of song. Indeed, these people are very child-
like in many of their ways.
The loading was an awkward job. Everything had
to be lowered slowly and carefully over the side and
placed gently in the boats, for, being made of canvas
and frail craft at best, anything dropped into them with
a bump would assuredly have gone through the bottom.
The difficulty was increased by the swell and the rolling
of the Quest, which caused the boats to rise and fall and
surge in and out in the most awkward manner. We were
interested to note that many of the islanders who came
aboard were sea-sick, but recovered when they clambered
back into their own boats. Evidently they were used
to the short, quick motion of the smaller boats, whilst the
more pronounced roll of the Quest upset them. They
plied to and fro till everything was ashore, where
it was stacked in an imposing pile at the top of the
beach.
After lunch I went ashore with Worsley and some
others of the party. We went in an " island " boat.
Worsley, known amongst the South Sea Islanders as
" Tally ho," from his habit when approaching through
ftiHl
sift' ut...
NIGHTINGALE ISLAND
i INACCESSIBLE ISLAND
^^'
F kotos : IVilkifis
Fhoto : Dr. Mackun
THE WIRFXESS POLE IN PROCESS OF ERECTION FOR THE MISSIONARY AT
TRISTAN DA CUNHA. McLEOU. WATTS AND COMMANDER WILD STANDING
BY POLE
Photo: iVilkins
CARR AND DOUGLAS WITH TWO TRISTAN GUIDES-HENRY GREEN AND GLASS
Tristan da Cunha 225
the surf of shouting the well-known hunting call,
" Yoicks ! Tally ho, tally ho, tally ho-000-oh ! " insisted
on taking the steer oar, and as the boat neared the beach
raised his cry, to the amusement of the crew and the
people on shore. They enjoy little jokes. On the beach
there was a scene of activity. The goods were being
loaded into small carts, each drawn by two bullocks.
They were rough and primitive affairs. The wheels
were made from sections of a tree which had been blown
up on the island some years previously. The oxen were
small but strong looking.
The way from the beach led up a winding rocky
pathway to the top of a cliff, and thence along to the
settlement, distant about half a mile.
Tristan da Cunha, in the greater part of its extent,
is very mountainous, but on the northern side there is a
stretch of flat land about six miles long and from half
to one mile deep. Behind it rises the mountain, sheer
and steep, to a height of from two to three thousand
feet, from where it slopes more gradually to the summit.
In front cliffs, fifty or sixty feet high, drop abruptly to
the sea, but are broken here and there by beaches of
black sand.
The settlement, composed of a number of small
stone cottages, is situated on the eastern end of the flat
land, which is grass-covered and strewn with boulders.
The western end provides good grazing ground for
sheep and cattle, and in the sheltered spots small
portions are set aside for growing potatoes.
On the way we met several women and children.
The women were well built and healthy looking, and
wore, like the men, a variety of clothing. They also
showed differences of colour and feature, one whom I
226 Shackleton's Last Voyage
noticed being quite blonde. The children are attractive,
very quiet and demure in their deportment — what the
islanders themselves call " old fashioned." I do not
think their demureness was altogether due to the
presence of strangers amongst them, for before I finally-
left the island I had had a chance to observe them in
their play and made friends with a number of them, but
I never saw anything approaching boisterousness.
In many respects the settlement differed little from
an Irish village. Geese waddled about the common and
showed their resentment of too close an approach with
the usual hissing and stretching of the neck. All about
were little pigs — long-nosed and lean-flanked, obviously
not far removed in type from the original " wild pig " —
which were rooting up the earth with their snouts. Each
had an attendant fowl which accompanied it in its move-
ments and picked at the newly turned earth. There are
a number of dogs on the island, mongrel curs of which
one would grudge even the admission that they were
" just dog," and there seems to be a regular feud
between them and the pigs. Whenever a dog, accom-
panying his master on a walk, encounters a pig, it rushes
up, barking furiously, and only desists when the pig,
squealing violently, is stretched at full speed. The pig
gets very angry, but immediately after goes on rooting.
There was something very ludicrous about this little
piece of byplay, which always provoked a laugh from us.
On the slope behind the settlement a flock of sheep,
numbering a hundred or so, was grazing. Here and
there about the common I saw donkeys, all of them
very diminutive.
At the entrance to the settlement we came to a brisk
little stream of clear water, which we crossed by a ford.
Tristan da Cunha 227
We were met by Mr. Rogers, the missionary, who had
recently come to the island.
Therd are in all about twenty completed houses and
others of which the walls have been built, but which,
from lack of material, have never been roofed over.
The first one we came to belonged to Henry Green, a
small, self-reliant man whom we had already met on the
ship. He gave us a cordial invitation to come in at any
time we cared. He had a small flagstaff, from which
flew a Union Jack that had been presented to the
islanders.
Commander Wild had detailed me to stay on Tristan
da Cunha whilst the ship proceeded to Nightingale and
Inaccessible Islands, and I now made inquiries as to
where I could stay. Bob Glass said immediately : " You
come right 'long to my house, and Til tell my wife she
got to look after you and give you everything she got,
which ain't much, I may tell you." He now led me to
it, and introduced me to his wife and family, which
numbered eight — six boys and two girls. His wife, who
was a second wife and not the mother of any of his
children, was a very pleasant woman, with quiet, natural
manners. She told me she would be glad to put me
up for as long as I cared to stay on the island. The
members of the family varied in age from a young man
of twenty-two years — who was married and had two
children of his own — to a bright lad of eight. The girls,
aged twenty and seventeen respectively, seemed to be
very pleasant, but had little to say, being, I think, rather
shy and bashful in the presence of a stranger. Bob
Glass said to me after : " That gel Wilet " — Violet, the
elder — " she's a f oine gel ; me and she never had a cross
word. But that there Dorothee — she's wery loively."
228 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Quite what form the liveliness took I never learnt, but
his words led me to believe that Miss Dorothy was a less
dutiful and obedient daughter than Violet.
This house resembles all the other houses of the
settlement, which are erected to more or less the same
design, being long, low, oblong structures built of stones
of considerable size and weight. The side walls are
usually a little more than two feet thick, and the end
walls are heavily buttressed. They all face the same
way, so as to be end on to the prevailing winds, which
blow at times with great strength and with sudden
violent gusts.
The roofs are composed of wooden beams, and are
thatched over with tussock grass, which is made into
bundles and lashed securely to the beams so that they
overlap from above downwards. A layer of turf is
placed to cover the apex where the two sides meet. The
ceilings and floors are made of wood — odd pieces begged
from ships, taken from packing cases or found along the
seashore — collected only with much patience over a
period of months or years before enough is accumulated
for the purpose. Much of the planking in the older
houses has been derived from ships wrecked on one or
other of the islands. In the house of Mrs. Repetto there
is a piece from the stern of a small vessel bearing the
name Mabel Clarke which had gone ashore forty years
previously. The insides of the stone walls are faced
with wood in the same way. The space left between
thatch and ceiling is used universally as a store room.
Windows, except in the case of one of the houses, are
on one side only, and face the sea to enable a good look
out to be kept for passing ships. The exception is in
the house just mentioned, that of Mrs. Repetto, whose
Tristan da Cunha 229
husband (deceased), an Italian sailor, survivor of a ship
wrecked on the island, must have been a man of much
ingenuity and practical ability, for the house is much
better equipped and furnished in every way than any
other in the settlement.
Taken on the whole, the houses keep remarkably
dry and are durable, though the tussock thatch often
requires renewing in patches and the turf is often lifted
away in the fiercer gales. They are divided, in the
majority of cases, by a single wall into living-room and
bedroom, but a few have an additional room. There is
a fireplace at one end of the living-room made of stone,
with two or three pieces of iron let in. In some of the
houses the cooking is done in these fireplaces, but in
others, especially where the family is a large one, an
annexe is built on to the end of the house to act as a
kitchen. In one or two of the better houses a separate
kitchen is included in the main building. Each house
boasts a table and some chairs, often very rickety, and
most of them have also a wooden settee, or " sofa," as it
is generally called. Some possess tablecloths and sofa
covers and have a few bright pictures on the walls.
Others are lacking in these luxuries, the walls being bare
or adorned only with one or two tracts. As a rule the
houses are kept clean, but in this they vary very much,
depending upon the occupants. One must understand
some of the difficulties they have in this respect. Brushes
and brooms are a rarity ; they use whisks made from the
" island tree," which answer only moderately well. They
are often without soap, and when there is any on the
island it has to be used with the greatest economy.
Taking everything into consideration, I think they are
to be congratulated upon what they achieve in this way.
230 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Rats came ashore from a ship called the Henry B.
Paul, wrecked on the back of the island. They increased
and multiplied so rapidly that they have overrun the
place and are found in the lofts of every house. To
combat them a few cats are kept, but whilst I was living
ashore I preferred the company of the rats to that of the
cats, which are most unpleasant brutes and more than
half wild.
Fleas swarm all over the settlement, and none of the
houses seem to be wholly free from them. As a doctor,
I had occasion to examine many of the people. Nearly
all of them were extensively flea-bitten, but some seemed
to have escaped their ravages. I found no trace of
other body parasites.
Any man starting to build a house here sets himself
a difficult task. The stone is fairly easily obtained and
set up. Boulders carried down from the mountain strew
the lower slopes, and there are plenty in the neighbour-
hood of the settlement. They are brought in by secur-
ing them with chains to which bullocks are attached, the
number of animals varying with the size of the boulder.
They are dragged bodily over the ground, the work,
however, being the easier in that most of the distance is
down hill. Soft boulders are selected, and are cut to
shape with small axes. A number of men sit or kneel
about the boulder to be cut, chipping away little pieces
in turn with rapid strokes of the axe.
Wood presents to the prospective builder a much
harder problem, and many a young man anxious to
marry or a young married couple eager for their own
home have to spend long weary months, or even years,
in accumulating the wood necessary to make the roof,
the ceiling or the floor. The shores, not only of Tristan
Tristan da Cunha 231
da Cunha, but also of Inaccessible and Nightingale
Islands, are eagerly searched for driftwood. Especially
is it difficult to collect the crossbeams, those in existence
having come from wrecked ships. The islanders regard
it as a regrettable fact that " wracks " are becoming more
and more scarce. Many of the occupied houses are only
partially ceilinged over, and have holes in the floor which
their occupants are unable to complete or repair for lack
of the necessary wood. The holes in the floor, if not too
large, are covered by boxes in which belongings, the
lares et fenates, are kept.
When completed, the houses make snug little
dwellings and adequately meet the needs of the
islanders.
As Commander Wild was not leaving for Inacces-
sible Island till next day, I slept that night on the
Quest, but told Mrs. Glass that I should come ashore
the next day to stay. I felt that my board might be a
bit of a burden to her, and was anxious to bring with me
sufficient stores amply to cover my stay.
The next day (May 20th) was beautifully fine, with
bright sunshine. Commander Wild sent ashore the
scientific staff, with assistants, to carry on their special
work. Jeffrey verified the position of the settlement and
took bearings of all the more salient points on the
northern side of the island. Wilkins took his cameras
and cinematograph machine, and had a busy day pho-
tographing the people in the various stages of their
work, family groups, cottages and, indeed, anything of
interest. Carr made observations of the flat land to the
west of the settlement with regard to its future useful-
ness as a landing-place for aircraft. Douglas made
an ascent to the peak of the mountain for geological
232 Shackleton's Last Voyage
purposes, whilst Mcllroy seized the opportunity of dis-
cussing with Mr. Rogers, the missionary, meteorological
work and observations.
The most interesting event of the day was a parade
of the Tristan troop of Boy Scouts, which was turned
out for Commander Wild's inspection. The troop was
instituted by Mr. Rogers on his arrival, and was, of
course, still very raw. It was surprising to note how
well these boys looked and how altered in appearance
they were after changing from their nondescript gar-
ments to the smart new uniforms. After considerable
manoeuvring, they were finally drawn up on parade,
when Marr, in full Scout uniform with kilt, formally
presented a Scout flag specially sent out by Sir Robert
Baden-Powell for this purpose. The boys felt a little
bit overcome by the occasion and responded indifferently
to the words of command, but under the circumstances
any but the most friendly criticism would be unfair. The
boys appeared to be keen, Mr. Rogers was keen, and
it is probable that the next people to hold an inspection
will see a very different turnout. Everyone on the island
witnessed the ceremony, and all the women donned their
best clothes for the occasion. I had thought that they
would have taken a greater interest in the kilt, but they
seemed hardly to notice it — unlike the women of France
and Italy, who during the war were so fascinated by the
Highland uniforms. Mr. Rogers and Marr had quite a
lengthy talk on Scout matters.
The islanders very hospitably looked after all who
had come ashore, which included most of the crew of the
Quest, inviting them to their houses for meals. Jeffrey
and I had both lunch and dinner with Bob Glass, waited
upon royally by Mrs. Glass, " Wilet " and '' Dorothee,"
Tristan da Cunha 233
whilst a large number of peeping faces grouped them-
selves about the door and windows.
After the parade of Scouts Commander Wild went
back to the ship. He permitted the others to stay longer,
but gave instructions that they were to go aboard before
dark. There was some delay, however, and to hurry
them up he fired a detonator, which burst with a loud
report and a spangle of stars and reverberated in
numerous echoes from the hillside. The effect was
extraordinary. Every living thing on the island was
thoroughly startled; dogs bolted and yelped, girls and
children screamed and ran for the houses, whilst sheep,
pigs, geese and poultry scampered in all directions in
the wildest confusion.
Soon afterwards I saw the lights of the Quest pass-
ing out in the direction of Inaccessible Island. With her
went three of the islanders whom Commander Wild had
taken to act as pilots and guides. They were Robert
and John Glass and Henry Green.
I had spent the day in seeing sick people or people
who thought that, seeing a doctor had come to the island,
they might just as well get him to have a look at them.
The men came to see me at Robert Glass's house, and
later Mrs. Glass conducted me on a tour of the settle-
ment to see a number of women patients. There were
numerous minor ailments : sprains, old fractures, or
" brocks," as the islanders call them, which had reunited
with serious deformity, rheumatism, and a condition they
call " ashmere," meaning asthma. This seems to be the
most prevalent complaint on the island. Taken on the
whole, however, they are a very healthy little community.
I had with me in my medical equipment a small port-
able electric battery. In the evening a man named Tom
234 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Rogers, who had received an injury to his arm some
time before, came for treatment, and I gave him some
electrical massage. He was delighted with the sensa-
tion, and made everyone who came to the house take the
terminals and feel it also. I got several of them to join
hands, and passed the current through all of them at one
time. Tom Rogers kept sending for more and more
people to " feel the electricity " until the house was full.
Finding that the current passed through any part of the
body that was touched, he determined to play a joke on
a new-comer, suddenly touching his ear whilst a strong
current was passing. The new-comer, Gordon Glass,
who had never seen such a thing before, was consider-
ably startled, to the great joy of all the others, who
thoroughly appreciated the joke and retailed it all over
the settlement, to my undoing, for I had to demonstrate
the experiment again and again.
I found that these islanders, when gathered together,
were a genial, pleasant lot, very good tempered, and
quick to see humour. Though intelligent in many
respects, most of them had absolutely no interest in
anything happening outside the island ; but, considering
their isolated position and lack of communication with
the rest of the world, together with their inability to read,
this can easily be understood.
Bob Glass had given his family instructions to put
me in his bed and to clear out of the house and leave
me to myself. Goodness knows where they went to. I
turned in and quickly fell asleep, to awake very soon
with a sensation that all was not well. The trouble
proved to be a countless host of small marauders, which
were very persistent and voracious. I had no more sleep
that night.
Tristan da Cunha 235
The next day (Sunday, 21st) I was up early. Mrs.
Glass brought me a cup of very strong black coffee with-
out sugar or milk. Acting probably on her husband's
instructions, she brought me also some hot water for
shaving. This accomplished, I sallied forth to the clear
brook and started sponging down, to find myself, much
to my embarrassment, an object of interest to sundry
small children of both sexes.
Breakfast was served to me in solitary state, which
was a disappointment, for I had hoped to sit down with
the family. The meal consisted of mutton and potatoes,
as did all the meals I had whilst remaining on the island.
Mrs. Glass would have fed me on her share of the stores
from the Quests but I told her I was tired of ship's food
and wanted a change.
The weather had changed; it was raining hard, and
the wind having come round to the north-west, from
which direction it blew up strongly, it looked as if a land-
ing would not be effected on Inaccessible Island. I
wondered what the Quest was doing — at least, I knew
very well what she was doing, and felt glad I was on
terra firma.
I called on the Rev. and Mrs. Rogers, and later went
to church, the service being held in the little schoolroom.
It was well attended. One side of the room was filled
by the women, who left their husbands to get in where
they could. They looked well in their best cotton
dresses, with bright-coloured handkerchiefs tied over
their hair. This form of headgear is very picturesque,
very practical, and eminently suited to this wind-blown
island. I was accompanied by my hostess, and hoped
to get a back seat where I could see all that was going
on; but room being made for me on the front bench, I
236 Shackleton*s Last Voyage
was bound to accept. I regret to say that I was guilty
of many turnings of the head. The service was short
and simple. I was surprised at the hearty way in which
everyone, both men and women, joined in the hymns,
which, as most of them could not read, they must have
learnt by heart. I was told that the wife of a previous
missionary had taught them a number of the best-known
hymns, and that the " New Missus " (Mrs. Rogers) was
bringing them up to scratch again in their singing. A
larger place is necessary, for the room was filled and
several people hung about the door unable to find a seat.
All the missionaries who have been on the island have
tried to persuade the people to build a church for them-
selves, but without success.
After church I called on Gaetano Lavarello, one of
the shipwrecked sailors from the Italia, a Genoese by
birth. I spoke to him in his own language, which he
understood, but found when he attempted to reply that
he had lost the fluent use of his mother tongue, having
for nearly forty years spoken nothing but English. He
expressed himself as quite content with life on the island.
He had married a Glass, and had several children. He
said the thing he felt the lack of most was tobacco. He
had not had a smoke for a long time, and asked me if I
could give him some plug or a stick of hard tobacco,
offering in exchange a sheep. He said : " I have the
largest flock and the best sheep on the island, and I will
give you a good one." Unfortunately, I had no tobacco,
but told him I had no doubt that Commander Wild
would give him some when the ship returned, and would
not require the sheep.
I then called on Mr. and Mrs. Rogers. They are
known by the islanders as " Reverend Rogers " and
Tristan da Cunha 237
" The Missus," which names I adopted, for there are
so many " Rogers " on the island as to be confusing.
They asked me to have lunch, during which they told
me of the difficulties and heavy expenses they had been
put to in order to come out and take up their work on
this island. Apparently it was an entirely individual
enterprise, and the Church organization had taken no
part in it at all. The first assistance of any sort which
they had received was at Cape Town, where considerable
interest is taken in this little outpost.
The " Missus " was only nineteen years of age, and
had had no previous experience to guide her in her
preparations for the life she was to lead. It takes a lot
of pluck for a woman to cut herself off from all home
connexions and bury herself in a small spot like this,
shut off entirely from the outside world, without guid-
ance or counsel in the changes and chances which fall
to the lot of every married woman. I admired the
courage and enthusiasm with which she faced her self-
imposed task, which included not only the instructing
of the unwilling youth of Tristan da Cunha in clean-
liness, morality and the " three R's," but also such
multifarious duties as nurse, midwife, scribe, reader and
general adviser to the womenfolk.
In the afternoon I again visited some of my patients.
One woman was really very ill and in need of hospital
attention. I did my best to persuade her to go to Cape
Town. The husband, on having things represented to
him, was agreeable, but there were numerous objections.
I asked " The Missus " to use her influence to persuade
her to seize the chance of a passing vessel to go. It
must be admitted that this reluctance to leave the island
is natural. These people have no money and are not
238 Shackleton's Last Voyage
well off for clothes (I believe this was the chief objection
in the mind of the good lady herself), and the leaving
of the island to those who have known nothing else
resolves itself into a great adventure into an unknown
world.
Commander Wild had asked me to take a census of
the island, and this I proceeded to do, visiting the houses
in turn. There was considerable vagueness about ages,
and in many cases about names also. On more than
one occasion a man (it was always the stupid male sex)
did not seem clear about his own name, sometimes con-
tradicting himself or appealing to bystanders for con-
firmation. As may be gathered from the history of the
settlement, with comparatively few exceptions everyone
on the island is either a Glass, Green, Swaine or Rogers.
Consequently, individuals are better known by Christian
names than by surnames, which probably accounts for
their vagueness. It is rather remarkable that with so
few names amongst them the new chaplain should be a
Rogers.
The history of Tristan da Cunha is interesting. The
island was discovered in 1506 by a Portuguese navigator,
Tristao da Cunha, from whom it takes its name, and
though individuals on different occasions lived on it for
short periods at a time, for three hundred years it
remained nobody's property. It was formally annexed
by Great Britain in 18 16, and a garrison, consisting of
about one hundred men, placed there, with the object of
resisting any attempt by foreign Powers to use it as a
base of operations for the rescue of Napoleon from
St. Helena. The garrison remained for a year only.
Corporal Glass, of the Royal Artillery, a native of
Kelso, in Scotland, asked for, and received, permission
Tristan da Cunha 239
to stay. He had married a coloured woman from Cape
Colony, and had at the time two children. It was no
doubt the possession of this black wife that chiefly
influenced his decision. He was joined by Alexander
Cotton and Thomas Swaine, two members of the relief
ship. This little party was augmented by some ship-
wrecked American whalers, but none of them remained
long, the only names persisting to-day of the original
settlers being Glass, Swaine and Cotton. Some twenty
years later Pieter William Green, a Dutchman, was
wrecked on Inaccessible Island, and having made his
way to Tristan da Cunha, elected to remain. About the
middle of the century two American whalers, Rogers and
Hagan, also settled there, and more recently, within the
present generation, two Italian sailors, Andreas Repetto
and Gaetano Lavarello, survivors cast upon the shores
from the wreck of the sailing ship Italia^ were so deter-
mined never again to risk their lives upon the ocean that
they also threw in their lot with the islanders and stayed.
Of the original settlers, only Glass was married.
The others obtained wives through the good offices of
the captain of a whaling vessel, who brought five women
from St. Helena. It was a funny way of choosing their
mates, and the islanders of to-day speak of the incident
as a great joke, guessing at the feelings of their great
grandsires when they went to meet their brides and
speculating upon the methods adopted in the selection.
Occasionally the settlement has been temporarily aug-
mented by other shipwrecked sailors, who seized an early
opportunity to get away in some passing ship. There is
evidence to show that they introduced a certain amount
of new blood amongst the islanders, for some of them
had children which were born after their departure. No
240 Shackleton's Last Voyage
new names were introduced, however, for the children
adopted the names of the mothers. This factor must be
taken into account when considering the effects upon the
present generation of intermarriage and consanguinity.
The original garrison brought to the island a con-
siderable quantity of live stock in the shape of cattle,
sheep, pigs, geese, poultry, donkeys and goats, and were
responsible for the laying down of the " potato patches,"
small walled-in potato gardens situated about two miles
to the west of the settlement under the lee of some high
mounds. The live stock throve, and there are repre-
sentatives to-day of every species except the goats, which
took to the hills, but were destroyed by the heavy torrents
which rapidly form and sweep down the gullies whenever
there is heavy rain.
From time to time attempts have been made to intro-
duce corn, maize and vegetables of different sorts, but
owing to the violent winds which prevail they have never
been a success. Practically the only vegetable grown
in useful quantity to-day is the pumpkin, and this is in
no great abundance. In the sheltered gullies at the
back of the island there are some very stunted apple
trees which produce small crops of apples.
The herds, from which they derive their supply of
meat, milk and butter, and the potatoes have met the
chief food requirements of the islanders, but for every-
thing else they have relied upon trade with passing
merchant ships and whalers.
In the days, not very remote, when a number of sail-
ing ships were making the Australian passage round the
Cape of Good Hope and during the period of whaling
activity, the islanders throve, for the ships were glad to
obtain fresh meat and potatoes, and gave in exchange
JOHN GLASS AND FAMILY
Photos: Dr. Macklin
THE MISSION HOUSE ON TRISTAN DA GUNHA
Tristan da Cunha 241
things of general value, such as clothes, tools and
materials, and flour, sugar, tea and soap. With the
establishment of fixed whaling stations ashore and the
rapid disappearance of sailing ships in favour of
steamers, which are more or less independent of winds
and follow fixed routes, carry refrigerating plants, and
to whom delay means loss of money, this trade by barter
has languished and died away. They are a prolific
people. The population has increased and is likely to
increase more rapidly with every generation, so that
their needs to-day are greater than they have ever been
since the foundation of the settlement.
For this history of the island I am indebted to Miss
Betty Cotton, an interesting old lady of ninety-five years,
to whom I paid many visits. In spite of her age she is
still very bright and active, with a clear memory for past
events, of which she took a pleasure in narrating to me
the salient facts I have set down, together with a wealth
of more intimate detail which might well fill a volume.
In everything which it was possible to yerify I found her
to be very accurate. Indeed, she was really a wonderful
old lady, for she still moved actively about the settle-
ment on fine days. She regretted, however, that she was
no longer able to face the fiercer gusts of wind and her
sight was very bad. She asked me to give her some
pills, not because she felt ill, but had, I suppose, the
general impression that some pills would do her good.
It is extraordinary how all the inhabitants carry their
age, many of those who should normally be entering the
" sere and yellow " being still bright and active and in
appearance middle-aged. Many middle-aged people,
in the same way, give the appearance of youth. This
applies to both sexes, but more particularly to the men.
Q
242 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Certainly in this island, situated " far from the mad-
ding crowd," there is little of the nerve-racking wear
and tear of modern civilization. Freedom from epidemic
diseases, the impossibility of over-indulgence in tobacco,
alcohol or faked-up foods, the pure atmosphere and the
healthy open-air life which they are compelled to lead
are, no doubt, factors in producing this longevity.
CHAPTER XII
TRISTAN DA CUNHA (continued) '
A GAIN during the night I was attacked by marauders,
/jL which allowed me little rest. In the morning,
after breakfast, I took a walk out along the bluff to
see if I could pick out through my binoculars any
signs of the Quest at Inaccessible Island. It was too
misty to get a clear view, but as there was a strong nor'-
westerly wind and a heavy swell with much surf, which
would have made a landing there quite impossible,
it did not seem likely that they would be successful.
I was followed out from the settlement by the husband
of the woman whom I wanted to go to Cape Town. He
was anxious to discuss further the possibilities. Poor
fellow ! he was very concerned for his wife's welfare. I
went with him to his house, which is one of the cleanest
and neatest on the island, situated some little distance
from the rest of the settlement, to see my patient again.
Some mischievous though probably well-meaning body
at home had sent her a large supply of pills, with which
she had been drugging herself heavily.
The morning was wet and squally, so I did not go
far from the settlement, but walked about watching the
men and women at their work and inducing the children,
by sundry small bribes of chocolate, to come and talk to
me. They were wonderfully free from shyness. Later,
I called on *' Reverend Rogers " and " The Missus."
At I2.0 noon the day cleared, and so I set off with
^ Dr. Macklin's account.
243
244 Shackleton's Last Voyage
Frank Glass, one of Bob Glass's sons, to climb the
mountain face. My companion, aged seventeen years,
was a bright, cheery youth with a firm belief that there
could be no place in the world like Tristan da Cunha nor
such an all-round lot of fine fellows as the " Tristanites."
He expressed, however, a willingness to leave the island
and see something of that other place, " the world," but
would seize an early chance to come back again.
We crossed the settlement and the land lying behind
it, passing at the foot of the mountain the springs from
which the water supply is derived. In this respect the
people are well off, for the water is good and beautifully
soft. The original garrison, in order to divert the water
past the houses, had built a canal, which in some places
passed through little tunnels in the hillocks, and was
quite a small feat of engineering. The volume is con-
siderable, and the water running to the cliff edge falls to
the beach in a good-sized cascade, which makes a useful
mark for ships looking for the landing-place.
The ascent of the mountain lay first up a steep,
grassy, boulder-strewn slope, from the top of which we
made a traverse across the face of the mountain to a
ridge where the climbing was steep, but where there was
good hand- and foot-hold. We zigzagged up this for
several hundred feet. There was abundant vegetation,
numbers of ferns, including a species of tree fern, tus-
sock and other forms of grass, mosses, lichens and the
" island tree " {phylica niiida\ a gnarled and stunted
tree which is found all over the island and which offers
firm holding for climbers. There were also on the
lower slopes a number of field daisies, or marguerites,
and a species of wild geranium bearing a small flower
with a pleasant aromatic smell. To another plant my
Tristan da Cunha 245
guide gave the name of " dog-catcher," because during
the summer it grows a sort of '' burr " which catches in
the hair of the dogs and is very hard to remove.
Our route followed a faint but definite track which is
used constantly by the islanders in their search for wood
to burn, and in the season for the eggs of mollymauks
and other seabirds which nest there. Even the women
make this ascent.
We crossed several bold rocky bluffs and gullies.
Nowhere was there any danger, provided reasonable
care were used, but in one or two places one crept along
dizzily poised ridges where a false or careless step would
have been sufficient to precipitate one to a drop of two
or three thousand feet.
Near the top we were enveloped by dense mist
accompanied by squalls of rain. Everything was
obscured, and so we returned to the scrub, where we
built a shelter from branches of the " island tree,'' under
which I sat and talked with Frank Glass. For one with
such a limited outlook, this young man had very
advanced ideas on life in general. He told me quite
cheerfully that the island was faced with starvation and
ruin. He also remarked that it would not do to go on
marrying each other, and that they needed new blood.
I recognized many of his expressions, however, as those
of his father. Bob Glass.
Our shelter after a while ceased to be effective, and
the water started pouring through in little rivulets.
There were no signs of the weather clearing, so we
descended some distance and made a traverse to a high
projecting rock known as ''The Pinnacle." This is a
high, straight mass crowned with a little vegetation. It
is inaccessible except by a tunnel running up the middle
246 Shackleton's Last Voyage
and emerging at the top, up which we scrambled with
free use of elbows and knees. Here we were out of the
mist, and had a fine bird's-eye yiew of the flat part of
the island and the settlement. The sea, edged with a
long irregular line of white where the surf was breaking
on the shore, stretched like a flat board to a dim, far-
distant horizon.
We were now in bright sunshine, and I felt quite
content to lie, chin in hand, gazing at the tiny objects
far below; but whilst I was enjoying the view the mist
came down the hill and again enveloped us. We there-
fore descended to the settlement, where we arrived
soaked to the skin.
I noticed a large crowd collected about one of the
houses, and so, having put on dry clothes, I approached
to see what was happening. I found that the islanders
were engaged in dividing up the goods we had sent
ashore into approximately equal lots.
They have a system of their own for dealing with
common stores. When the boats go out to a ship barter
is first of all carried out in the name of the community
for such stores as tea, sugar, flour, etc. Each family in
turn provides whatever goods are necessary for these
exchanges in the way of cattle, sheep, geese or potatoes.
When this has been done, the individuals who have
manned the boat may barter with their own goods for
any particular article which they or their families may
require. This includes articles of clothing, general
household utensils, knives, wood, nails, etc. In ex-
change they can give of their own live stock or polished
horns, mats made from penguin skins, socks knitted by
the women, shells and other curios. The goods brought
ashore in the name of the community are divided equally
Tristan da Cunha 247
amongst the families irrespective of the size of the
family, so that a man with eight or nine children draws
no more than a man who has none.
Everything that is divisible is divided up even to
the smallest amounts, so that one family's share of rice,
for example, may amount to no more than one spoonful !
One single piece of soap has been known to be divided
into eight pieces ! Things which are obviously in-
divisible, such as stone jars, baskets, pots and pans, tins
or sacks, are made up into little batches of as nearly as
possible equal value and allotted by the system of say-
ing " Whose ? " In carrying this out one person points
in turn to each batch, saying " Whose ? " whilst another,
blindfolded or with back turned, answers the name of
one of the families. It is a very fair system. Supposing
that there are only twelve lots and twenty families to
draw, the caller shouts " Whose ? " twenty times, occa-
sionally indicating a blank by pointing at the ceiling or
floor. No name, of course, is called twice. The women
adhere very rigidly to this division of goods, even to the
extent of quantities which are valueless. The men, on
the other hand, occasionally decide to own things jointly,
such as spars, chains, tools or implements, or where a
thing is obviously of use to one man only — e.g. an empty
cask — they will agree to take turns in acquiring it. Also,
a man who is collecting wood for his house will be
allowed to have for his own use one or more packing-
cases on the understanding that he must compensate
in one way or another later on. No written note is
made, but they seem to have tenacious memories in this
respect.
Again, in the case of an article which has been blown
up on the island too heavy or bulky to be dealt with by
248 Shackleton's Last Voyage
the finder alone, such as a large tree or a stranded whale,
those who help to bring it to the settlement participate
equally in what profit may result from it.
This system was evolved by the patriarchs of the
community, men such as Corporal Glass, the founder,
and Pieter William Green, each of whom was for long
the virtual head of the island. On the whole it is a very
fair one, and even though it seems unjust that the large
families should share equally with the small ones, it must
be remembered that the small family, when it comes to
its turn to find the goods for barter, has to bear an equal
brunt with the larger. Children also are not regarded
as a handicap, but as an asset, for from the time they
are able to run about and drive sheep or geese they work
for their living. In England one's income does not vary
with the number of children, and a bachelor employee
receives the same wages as a married man if he does
identical work.
On this particular occasion the work of dividing was
going on merrily, and the young people and children
were kept busy running to and from the houses with the
shares. The missionary and his wife were acting as
umpires at the " sheering " (they pronounced long " a "
as " ee "). When it was over I returned with Mr. and
Mrs. Rogers to their house, and sat talking for a while.
They brought their house with them from England, cut
in sections all ready for putting up. It is small but snug.
Their chief fear in connexion with it is that it may be
lifted and carried away by some of the fiercer gusts of
wind, and they were proposing to have it walled over
with stone. They were very wise in bringing their own
dwelling, for the housing problem is as difficult in Tris-
tan da Cunha as it is in England in these post-war days.
Tristan da Cunha 249
Whilst I was sitting and talking darkness set in. The
wind outside was blowing hard, with sharp rain squalls.
Mrs. Glass, accompanied by one of her family, thinking
I might be lost, set out on a pilgrimage round the settle-
ment in search of me, and was relieved when I was
discovered to be all safe and sound. She said that get-
ting about was awkward for a stranger, and thought I
might have walked past the house (which is the lowest of
the settlement) and fallen over the cliff. She said : " You
stop now and finish your talk with the Missus, and I'll
tell Tom Rogers (who lived near by) to bring you down
when you are ready." The latter had supper with us.
He is a pleasant, talkative fellow. Mrs. Glass says he
will talk all day to anyone he can get to listen to him.
" Usually," she says, " grown-ups is too busy, so he has
to talk to one of the children."
In the course of conversation Tom Rogers said that
he was going to the back of the island to " turn over "
his cattle. By " turn over " he meant drive them from
one pasturage to another. I asked if I might accompany
him. He was willing, but thought that I might find it a
bit far, as it entailed a considerable walk and a good deal
of climbing. I smiled to myself, thinking that I could
hold my own well enough with any islander, more
especially as Gordon Glass, a slim-looking young fellow,
was also to join the party. I was to have my eyes
opened, however.
After Tom Rogers had gone " Wilet " and
" Dorothea " came in. Mrs. Glass went to the door and
called into the darkness : " Come in, don't be shoi ; no
one ain't going to hurt you ; come in, they'se both in ! "
Whereupon after a good deal more urging two very
sheepish-looking youths entered, and planting them-
250 Shackleton's Last Voyage
selves down on a form said no word at all but gazed
across at the two girls. It seemed to me that I was
very much de trop, and not wishing to be in any way a
spoil-sport, I made some excuse to go out. It was not
a pleasant night, being cold, and there was a slight
drizzle. After about half an hour of stumbling blindly
into every quagmire on the common, crossing the stream
at its deepest and most slippery part, and causing all
the dogs in the settlement to bark, I decided that I had
been '' sporting " enough and returned to find them in
exactly the same attitude as I had left them. Later on,
touching on the subject to Mrs. Glass, she remarked :
" Oh, they'se been coming every night like that for years,
but Mr. Glass he ain't going to let none of the gels marry
till they'se twenty-one."
I had with me in my medical equipment a small bottle
of essential oil of lavender, and with it I plentifully
sprinkled my bedding in the hope that it would keep
away the fleas. I believe they liked it, and the only
result achieved was that I acquired a distaste for the
smell of lavender which will probably last my lifetime !
However, as a result of my exercise in climbing, I slept
well.
In the morning at 8.0 a.m. Tom Rogers, Glass and I
set off for the back of the island. The road, a mud track,
ran westwards, and led across a deep gulch which had
been cut some years previously by a torrent from the
mountain. We had a stiff wind against us, which, in a
narrow passage between a big bluff and the side of the
mountain, blew in gusts, against which it was hard work
to force a way and which occasionally drove us back a
step or two. Behind the bluff were several pyramidal
grass-covered mounds, in the shelter provided by which
Tristan da Cunha 251
are the " potato-patches." They consist of small walled-
in areas, the walls serving to protect the plants from the
force of the winds, which have a yery deleterious effect
upon the " tops." This is amply demonstrated by com-
paring those in well-protected areas with those which are
more exposed, the latter being stunted, dry and withered
looking. The potatoes are planted in September and
early October, and taken up in February. They are
small in size, but otherwise of good quality. At the time
of my visit (late May) the islanders were engaged in
collecting seaweed from the shore and conveying it in
bullock-carts to the patches, where it is allowed to rot,
mixed with sheep manure, and placed on top of the
potatoes when they are planted. The manure is
obtained by corralling the sheep and leaving them
closely penned in for twenty-four hours. We passed
across several more gulches and encountered some broad
patches of stone which had been swept down out of the
hills during the rains.
The soil in this part of the island is better than that
at the settlement, and provides a flat grassy plain, giving
good grazing for the sheep and cattle which are dotted
all about its surface and climb up into the lower slopes
of the mountain. Both are small, but of fairly good
quality, the meat which I tasted on the island being
tender and of good flavour. A number of the cattle had
calves, which were pretty little creatures.
On this part of the island the land ends in short
cliffs, at the foot of which are numerous narrow beaches
on which, as we went along, a heavy surf was breaking,
looking pretty in the sunlight and having a pleasant
sound.
About five miles from the settlement the flat ground
252 Shackleton's Last Voyage
ends in a high straight bluff running steeply down to
the sea. To get round this we had to ascend the moun-
tain, having a steep climb of about two thousand feet.
The cattle and sheep, to get to the back of the island,
have to make this climb, and there is a narrow track,
worn by them, which zigzags upwards, passing across
places where one single slip would mean destruction for
the animal. I am told that very few of them fall. They
must be amazingly sure-footed.
On several occasions as we wound along my com-
panions pointed out to me in some of the sheltered
gullies what they called " orchards," little clumps of
apple trees so small, bush-like and stunted as to be
almost unrecognizable. Nevertheless, each year they get
small crops of apples from them. I tasted some, and
found them to have quite a good flavour. It is from
these trees that the cross-pieces for their boats are made.
The vegetation in the gullies is very luxuriant, and the
grass, being sheltered from the winds, grows lush and
long. Far below the clefts ended in little bays, where we
caught glimpses of the surf breaking in creamy ridges
against the shore. We continued upwards, and came
suddenly to a sharply defined ridge above a steep preci-
pice across which the wind blew strongly. We threw
ourselves on our faces and peered over the edge, and got
a view of the " back of the island." Far below us was a
flat grassy plain with many cattle grazing, and away out
to sea we saw Inaccessible and Nightingale Islands. I
carefully scanned their base lines through my binoculars
for any signs of the Quest, but the day was too hazy to
permit of a clear view.
Tom Rogers proposed to descend from here to the
plains to " turn over " his cattle, but, having climbed so
Tristan da Cunha 253
far, I was anxious to continue up till I could get a clear
view of the top of the mountain, so he good-naturedly put
off the job to another day, and we went on upwards,
laboriously working through long tussock-grass and thick
masses of tree fern.
These men with whom I had thought to hold my own
so easily seemed to be absolutely tireless, and they took
a keen interest in the outing and in showing me all
things of interest.
Here and there we came across little bundles of
branches cut from the " island tree." These were loads
in process of being collected to be taken finally to the
settlement for firewood.
Some of the branches which went to the formation
of these bundles had to be dragged for a considerable
distance across the face of the cliff, often only with the
utmost difficulty. They are collected eventually at a
point above a gully which will give a clear drop to a
point thousands of feet below, where they can be
gathered up and loaded into bullock-carts for taking
home.
Through my binoculars I could see men at work all
about the ridges, and I was deeply impressed by the
hardihood of the life they must lead in having thus to
fare abroad for their daily needs.
Gordon Glass had with him his dog, which occasion-
ally discovered a " pediunker," a species of seabird
which frequents the island and about this time of year
is preparing to nest. They lay in holes in the hillside,
and a search was made for a chance egg, though it was
still early in the season for them. We allowed the birds
to go free.
We reached at last a point where the heavier vegeta-
254 Shackleton's Last Voyage
tion ended and the hill was covered with a rather coarse
grass interspersed with patches of moss. It was very
damp. From here we had a fine view, and the air was
keen and cold. We descended by another route, which
led eventually to a cattle track where the going was
easier, but the steepness and tortuosity of which again
impressed me with the remarkable climbing powers of
the animals.
Reaching the plain again, we set off at a good round
pace for the settlement, where I arrived, I am not
ashamed to say, pleasantly fatigued with the day's out-
ing, whilst my companions seemed to think they had
. done nothing out of the way. I mention this particularly
I because it has been stated from time to time by visitors
I that these islanders are becoming a decadent lot and are
suffering from the results of intermarriage and con-
[ sanguinity. That they are physically decadent is not
J' true. Taken on the whole, they are of medium height
and slimly built, but they are very tough and wiry. John
Glass, whom I have already mentioned as having been
the first man aboard the Quest is a powerful man. Some
of the elderly men of fifty years or thereabouts are
wonderfully nimble and active. They are hardy walkers
and climbers, and in their attempts to reach passing ships
are often compelled to row long distances against heavy
winds — a procedure which requires plenty of stamina.
Speaking of them collectively, they are not good
workers, and attempts to get them to work together in
an organized way for their mutual profit have not been
successful. An attempt was made some years ago by a
Cape Town firm to introduce a fish-curing industry and
to get them to export sheep, but the islanders did not pull
together and the scheme failed. They themselves give
Tristan da Cunha 255
as a reason that they were being exploited and that the
return was totally inadequate.
It is possible that due consideration was not given to
their insularity and limitations of outlook, and that the
use of a little more patience and diplomacy might have
met with better results. I doubt very much, however,
whether these islanders would ever settle down to a daily
routine of work, having all their lives been more or less
their own masters and able to decide when th^y shall or
shall not work. Nevertheless, the necessities of life com-
pel that the days spent at home be few, and the qualities
of hardihood to which I have referred are not developed
by doing nothing.
It has been stated also that through intermarriage
there are numerous signs of deformity and mental
degeneration. There are xery few of these signs. As
to mental degeneration, I considered these islanders to
be very intelligent. They are uneducated, limited in out-
look, and generally " insular," but how could they be
anything else in their peculiar circumstances ? They are
bright, quick to see humour and enjoy a joke, and are
morally much sounder than many civilized peoples.
They live on good terms, with little quarrelling, crime is
unknown, and petty misdemeanours are rare.
One youth is dumb and is peculiar in manner, but
works and carries out ordinary duties with quite average
intelligence. Of deformities : one old woman (the island
midwife) has two thumbs on each hand, but is otherwise
normal. One man, a particularly noticeable case, has
stunted arms, with ill-developed hands and absence of
some fingers. Otherwise, he is strong, level-headed and
intelligent, works as a shepherd, and in his duties roams
far and wide over the hills. There are no other signs of
256 Shackleton's Last Voyage
mental or physical degeneration. The man with the
stunted arms is able to do wonderful things, can carry
small packages, hold a cigarette, feed himself, and, most
extraordinary of all in this community of illiterates, can
write. He was taught by a former missionary to the
island, Mr. Dodgson (brother of Lewis Carroll, author
of " Alice in Wonderland "). It is surely a triumph of
patient teaching. In carrying it out, the paper is placed
on the floor and the man lies down. Though the writing
IS large and scrawly, it is legible.
I devoted as much time as possible to conversation
with different people, trying to learn what I could of their
manners and customs.
In religion they are mostly Protestant, but there are
some who were baptized as Roman Catholics at Cape
Town. There is, however, no distinction made between
the religions, and they intermarry. There have been
several Protestant missionaries on the island at one time
and another, but never a Roman Catholic priest. Young
men and women wishing to marry select their own mates
by mutual agreement and are uninfluenced by their
parents. The marriage service is conducted (in the
absence of a missionary) by Bob Glass, who reads it from
the Prayer Book. There is generally no fuss and no sort
of function, but occasionally they have a dance after-
wards in one of the houses. All the women go to hear
the marriage service read, and such of the men as are
about and have nothing better to do. I noticed in talk-
ing of weddings that the women spoke with an absence
of enthusiasm and showed none of the interest that such
a subject would arouse amongst civilized feminism.
Frequently it happens that a couple do not become
married until after a child has been born; often a
TRISTAN WOMEN TWISTING WOOL
Photos: Wilkins
THE TRISTAN METHOD OF CARDING WOOL
HENRY GREENS COTTAGE. TRISTAN DA CUNHA
The Union Jack was piesentcd by the British Government to the Islanders for bravery in saving
lives from shipwreck
Photos: Wilkins
THE OLDEST INHABITANT OF TRISTAN DA CUNHA. MISS BETTY COTTON
(AGED 95 YEARS)
Tristan da Cunha 257
considerable period elapses. They are not, however,
" marriages of necessity." A young man in Tristan da
Cunha is very peculiarly placed. There are no jobs or
trades or form of employment in the ordinary sense.
There is no currency. If any individual wants help, his
neighbours give him a hand, during which time he is
expected to feed them. A young man, therefore, can
acquire nothing except as a gift from his parents. In
many ways it may not suit his parents to allow him to
marry, for it means, first of all, another family on the
island drawing a full share of common goods. It means
also the loss of an adult worker. Again, they may not
be in a position to spare him anything in the way of
household goods, and, if he has not already built a house,
it means a wife and any family he may have quartered
upon them. So the young couple use compulsion, for
with the advent of the child the parents think it is time to
make a move, and present the pair with a cow, a sheep
or two, and a few household necessities to enable them
to make a start. Until the formal marriage takes place,
the child takes its mother's name, and so it occasionally
happens that a bewildered tot of three or four year^ of
age suddenly finds one day that, instead of being
Tommy Green, its name has become Tommy Swaine, or
vice versa, as the case may be.
Promiscuity is not common and morals, on the whole,
appear to be remarkably good, though to the casual
observer the reverse might seem to be the case. The
remarks in " Sailing Directions " seem to me to cast an
unfair stigma upon the islanders.
In some ways they are very casual. Appointments
are rarely kept punctually, and they are apt to put things
off for another day.
258 Shackleton's Last Voyage
In the hours of rising and going to bed they are
governed by the sun. The only form of artificial illumin-
ation known to them is candle-light, and frequently they
have no candles. They have, as a rule, three meals a
day, which they take at times convenient on any one day.
The men seek to avoid going out to work in wet weather,
but at times — for instance, in the potato season — ^they
fare forth before dawn so as to be ready for work the
moment daylight appears, and do not return till dusk.
On these occasions it is the duty of the womenfolk to
take them out their meals.
There is an island custom that when the men have
been engaged on an arduous piece of work at some dis-
tant part of the island or have had a heavy day in the
boats, the women come out to meet them on their return
with something hot to drink. Indeed, the women are by
no means idle, for they have all the inside housework,
cleaning, cooking, mending, sewing and washing of
clothes, to do. They card the fleece from the sheep into
wool and twist it into strands, using for the purpose old-
fashioned wheels which are manufactured with much in-
genuity from all sorts of odds and ends of wood and
metal. They knit excellent socks of pure wool, which
are soft and comfortable to wear. Usually, also, they
take charge of the geese and poultry, and, of course,
have the children to look after. They frequent each
other's houses a good deal, but there are one or two who
keep to themselves and do not encourage visiting.
Sanitation is very much neglected. Closets do not
exist, and the present clergyman had the greatest diffi-
culty in getting one built for his own house. Animals
are slaughtered in close proximity to the houses, and no
proper steps taken for the removal of entrails and offal.
Tristan da Cunha 259
which are left for the dogs to eat. Nothing is done to
protect the water supply, which is derived from open
streams that have been diverted to pass close to the
houses, and the water becomes fouled before it reaches
the lower parts of the settlement. Nevertheless, the
settlement compares favourably in this respect with many
of the remote villages in European countries.
The people are very free from sickness of any kind,
which is probably due to their simple mode of life and
the absence of any epidemic diseases. They escaped the
widespread epidemic of influenza. It is likely that any
infectious disease introduced would run rapidly through
the whole community. They say that almost invariably
when a ship has visited the island " colds " run the round
of the settlement.
Maternity cases are dealt with by an old midwife,
who adopts the wise policy of leaving things very much
to Nature.
This strange little community is run without any laid-
down system of government. There are no written laws.
In the early days of the settlement Corporal Glass,
Pieter Green and William Rogers in turn ruled in patri-
archal fashion, all disputes being referred to them for
settlement.
By a process of evolution certain customs and un-
written laws have come into use and are, perhaps, more
rigidly adhered to than any definite written rulings.
Crime does not seem to exist. In the history of the
island there has been one case of suicide. Petty thiev-
ing is said to occur occasionally, but in so small a com-
munity, where everyone knows everybody else so well
and their goings and comings, any stolen article would be
quickly recognized, so that their honesty in this way may
26o Shackleton's Last Voyage
be enforced through certainty of detection. Sheep are
occasionally missed, and it is thought that theft may
account for some of them, the depredations being carried
out at night and the animal immediately skinned and cut
up so that it is unrecognizable in the morning. There
is no policeman, no jail, and no system of punishment
for offenders. It seemed to me that they liyed very
harmoniously together, with much give and take and very
little quarrelling.
It is curious that the minds of visitors to this settle-
ment have been mainly struck in two very different ways.
To the first class this island community seems to have
approached the ideal. The French captain, Raymond
du Baty, who visited the island in 1907, says :
The social status of Tristan da Cunha is a
commonwealth of a kind which has been dreamed of
by philosophers of all ages and by our modern
Socialists. There is no envy, hatred or malice among
them ; everything is done for the common good ; they
render each other brotherly service ; they are free from
all the vices of civilization; they worship God in a
simple way; they live very close to Nature, but with-
out pantheistic superstition; greed and usury are un-
known among them; there are no class distinctions,
no rich or poor. Truly on this lonely rock in the South
Atlantic we have a people who belong rather to the
Pastoral Age of the world than to our modern unrest-
ful life, and who, without theory or politics or written
laws, have reached that state which has been described
by the imaginative writers of all ages, haunted by the
thought of the decadent morality of the seething cities,
as the Golden Age or the Millennium.
Tristan da Cunha 261
I have often wondered as to what place the fleas,
the rats, the offal outside the window and the fouled
water supply take in the Golden Age.
The second class of people are struck at once by the
extreme poverty, the squalor and lack of comforts, the
illiteracy and ignorance and the extreme isolation. The
captain of a steamer who had once called to drop mails
said to us :
They are a greedy lot of beggars and thieves.
When they come aboard they ask you for everything
they see, and if you do not give them what they want
they will try and pinch it. When it comes to a matter
of a bargain, they give you diseased sheep and bad
potatoes, though they have good enough stuff ashore.
The question which arises to the mind of everyone
is : What is to become of these people, with a rapidly
increasing population and a decreasing touch with out-
side civilization owing to lack of shipping ? The pastur-
age on the island will support only a limited number of
live stock, which soon will be insufficient for the increas-
ing number of mouths.
I inquired of many of them, especially the younger
ones, as to whether they would leave the island and settle
elsewhere if they had the opportunity. The reply in
most cases was : Yes, provided they were given a
chance to make a decent living. They realize, however,
that without money and knowledge of its use and value,
without experience of outside ways of working and
living, without education and unable even to read or to
write, they are likely to be at a disadvantage in a hard,
workaday world.
Robert Glass and some of the others who have spent
262 Shackleton's Last Voyage
some time away from the island fully realize that there
is a day of reckoning to come, and they feel that, were
it possible, it would be a good thing for the young men
when they have reached a certain age to go away and
work for a while at Cape Town or elsewhere. They could
then decide whether they would return to the island or
not, and, if they did, it is likely that they would bring
back wives from the outside, thus periodically introduc-
ing new blood to the community. Glass himself says
he would like his boys to serve a period in the army or
navy, where they would have a more or less sheltered
life and to a certain extent be cared for and looked after.
It is not likely that any offer of a wholesale trans-
ference of the community to another part of the world
would be accepted when it came to the point — at any
rate, by the elder people. After all, this is natural
enough, for how many people in England, told that the
population was getting too big for the country, would
consent at a day's notice to make a sudden shift to
Canada or Australia?
Nevertheless, I gathered from conversation with
many of the young men that there is deep down a seed
of unrest and a desire to see something of the outer
world, where there are so many more opportunities to
get on and acquire greater wealth, including such things
as wrist-watches, electric torches, and boots of real
leather. For this Robert Glass is largely responsible.
The seed, however, requires cultivation. A missionary,
by throwing himself into the interests of the islanders
and becoming to some degree one of themselves, might
effect considerable good by holding out continually in
his daily talk and conversation prospects and mind
pictures of a greater world where opportunities wait for
THH APOSTLE: AN ACID INIRUSIVK NFAR THE SUMMIT OF GOUGH ISLAND
Photos : Mackltn
THE LITTLE GLEN WHERE THE NEW SOPHORA WAS DISCOVERED
Tristan da Cunha 263
the young men who can grasp them. Equally good
results might be effected by influencing the women in the
same way. A missionary, however, to obtain a good
influence on these people must be a man of broad mind
and sound common sense. One previous missionary, for
example, undid much good work by an attempt to stop
them going out to passing ships on a Sunday, a maxim
which they must necessarily reject when the chances of
trade on any day at all are so few and the taking of them
so vital a matter to the whole community. Mr. Rogers,
the present missionary, who replied yery frankly when I
asked him his views on the subject, agreed that much
harm might be done by holding too narrow a view and
trying to force a bigoted religion on these people. He
has an uphill fight in front of him, for he has to undo a
feeling that the observance of a religion is a bugbear
which entails a number of things that may not be done.
Unfortunately, the chances of leaving the island,
even if an individual has made up his mind to make the
venture, have now become very scarce. There is no
regular communication, and consequently arrangements
for a job cannot be made beforehand, and as there is no
money on the island those who do find a passage cannot
maintain themselves until work is found.
It so happens, however, that there are people in Cape
Town who take an interest in Tristan da Cunha and who
would be willing to give temporary help.
It is hardly likely that the Government will ever
again do anything for the relief of these people, though
all that is required is a small vessel to make the journey
once a year from Cape Town.' It should be prepared to
1 I learn on going to press that H.M.S. Dublin is to visit the island in
the near future.
264 Shackleton's Last Voyage
spend at least a week at Tristan da Cunha. Unfortun-
ately, there is no good shelter, and on many days a land-
ing could not be effected. Bad weather might compel
the ship at any moment to leave her anchorage, and so
she should have some power other than sail.
The best time of year to make the trip is January,
when bad weather would least likely be met with. A
vessel of a hundred tons burden would be adequate.
This is but a tiny portion of our Empire, but who
knows, with the development of flying machines, of what
use it may not ultimately become. Carr, our flying
officer, late of the Royal Air Force, says there is a good
site for an aerodrome, and the island is on the direct
route from Cape Town to Buenos Aires.
The Church organization also could do a vast amount
of good by arranging for a permanent mission change-
able, say, every three years, and thus ensure an unbroken
education to those growing up. Much money is collected
yearly for missions — for instance, to the Esquimaux —
but there is evidence from the Arctic to show that the
introduction of Christianity to these primitive people,
who are not sufficiently evolved to receive it intelligently,
has not always been productive of good, and in some
cases has done much harm, whereas the value to Tristan
da Cunha of a good sound practical religion combined
with good schooling cannot be doubted.
CHAPTER XIII
DIEGO ALVAREZ OR GOUGH ISLAND
ON May 26th the wind was fair for Gough Island
and we made good progress. Our ship had be-
come a floating farmyard, for our live stock included
sheep, geese, fowls, pig, cat, and, to stir them up
and make things lively, our own dog Query, who had
never before had so many interesting real live things
to play with. The sow Bridget and the geese wandered
all about the decks and got in the way generally. One
gander was quite a character. He was blind of one
eye and had a curious knack of standing with head on
one side, quizzically regarding anyone he encountered.
Regularly about once an hour he uttered a loud and very
startling goose-call. We called him Nelson, and his
mate, who followed him like a shadow wherever he went,
was known as Jemima. Worsley in his watch below way
being continually wakened by Nelson's harsh noises,
and on one occasion I saw his head appear through his
port and heard him shout : ** Be quiet, you silly beggar,
you are not saving Rome now. That happened years
ago!"
Bridget was a tyrant; she would not let the sheep
alone, but rooted about in their grass feed, and having
collected it into a nice bed for herself, lay down on it
in stertorous sleep whilst the sheep looked on, advanc-
ing now and again to take an apologetic nibble at their
own grass. Dell, who had taken in hand the attempt
265
266 Shackleton^s Last Voyage
to fatten these poor animals, drove her off relentlessly
to the accompaniment of much squealing.
We had a busy day squaring up after our upheaval
at Tristan, and in getting ready the camping gear for
use on Gough Island.
On May 27th at about 12.0 noon the island showed
up. In spite of the comparatively short run we had had
some difficulty in picking it up on account of winds,
strong tides and no sun, which made it impossible for
Worsley and Jeffrey to locate exactly our position, and
the visibility was so poor that we could see less than a
mile in any one direction. About noon, however, it
appeared as a high mass crowned with mist.
This island lies about 250 miles south-south-east of
Tristan da Cunha. It was discovered by Portuguese
navigators in the sixteenth century and received the
name Diego Alvarez. In 1731 Captain Gough in the
Richmond sighted an island which he placed on the
chart as lying to the east of Diego Alvarez and named
Gough Island. For many years two separate islands
were believed to exist, but now there can be no doubt
they are one and the same. The name in most common
usage is Gough, which seems hardly fair to its original
discoverers.
In 181 1 it was sighted by H.M.S. Nereus under
Captain Heywood. He effected a landing, described
as being safe and easy, and discovered the remains of
two huts which apparently had been set up some time
previously by sealers. The height of the summit of the
island was estimated by him at 4,380 feet. American
sealers landed in 1825 but soon left. Morrell visited it
in the Antarctic in 1829, and came to anchor in twelve to
fourteen fathoms in a cove on the north side, where he
Photo: Dr. Mack it n
ON THE WAY TO THE SUMMIT. THE APOSTLE AND
MT. ROWETT BEHIND
Diego Alvarez or Gough Island 267
was able to water his ship. H.M.S. Royalist arrived in
1887, and a survey was carried out by Lieut. J. P.
Rolleston from which the Admiralty Chart (2228) was
made. Towards the end of the same year an American
schooner, Francis Alley n, left a party of five sealers
for six months who met, however, with little success.
Amongst them was George Comer who kept a diary. He
seems to have been a keen observer very interested in
natural history, and his diary contains a complete daily
record of weather conditions during his stay. One of
the party was frozen to death whilst attempting to cross
over the island, and his grave was marked by a board
bearing the inscription, " Jose Gomez perished in the
snow." Another sealer, the Wild Rose, visited the
island at the beginning of 1891 and landed a party which
remained for about a year. They had little luck in the
sealing. A harbour known as Snug Harbour is described
by one of them as being situated at the southern end
of the island lying between two large rocks known as
Castle and Battery Rocks, suitable, however, only for
small vessels and boats. Landing is said to be not
difficult, and the higher ground easily accessible at this
point.
On only one occasion previous to our arrival had
scientific investigators landed : in 1904 Dr. Bruce and
members of the staff of the Scotia succeeded in effect-
ing a landing. They were ashore for one day only,
and bad weather and the necessity of " standing by "
for a sudden recall prevented their going far afield.
Nevertheless they made full use of their time and suc-
ceeded in collecting a number of new specimens of both
animal and plant life. Accounts had shown the island
to be difficult of access, but I was particularly anxious
268 Shackleton's Last Voyage
to allow the naturalist and geologist with their assistants
as many chances as possible for the collection of speci-
mens and the examination of its natural features. This
being mid-winter I feared that weather conditions might
not be altogether propitious.
We passed along the coast, keeping a close look out
for an anchorage for the ship and good landing-places
for the boats. Through binoculars we saw that the
island was covered with vegetation, of which tussock
grass, tree ferns and island trees were the most distin-
guishable. In most places the land rose steeply from
the sea, and down the face of the cliffs numerous water-
falls, long and thin, resembling mare's tails, fell in long
cascades. Every now and then they had the appearance
of being cut abruptly in half, the wind in strong gusts
catching the lower portions and blowing them away in
fine, almost invisible, spray. The rocky outline of the
island was marked with numerous caves and chasms, and
striking features of its formation were pinnacles which
stood up distinct, bold in outline, some smooth and
tapering, others jagged and irregular. Steep rocky
islands, sharply cut off from the shore and separated
from it by narrow channels, rose sheer and straight from
the sea, some bare, some crowned with a mass of vegeta-
tion, most of them so steep as to be quite inaccessible.
Of bird life we saw very little as we passed along
the coast. A few sea-hens fiew out at our approach,
while here and there on the rocks, usually near the
entrance to some cave, we could distinguish the white
bodies of terns.
We rounded in turn West Cape, South West Cape,
South Cape and South East Cape. Snug Harbour on
the east side of South West Cape much belies its
Diego Alvarez or Gough Island 269
name, for " snug " it is not. Indeed, it can hardly be
said that there is a harbour there at all. Although it
offers a lee and a useful anchorage during high westerly
winds, with no swell from south or west, to obtain any
real shelter it is necessary to lie very close in to the
shore, closer than is safe for any but the smallest of
craft. As we passed there was a heavy swell and strong
surf which made it quite unsuitable.
In the " Glen Anchorage " on the east coast we
found shelter and dropped anchor in twelve and a half
fathoms.
Just about this time the light began to fail, and in
the gathering dusk the island had a most romantic
appearance. The glen forms a deep cleft at the back
of which the island rises to a height of several thousand
feet, marked here and there by bold outstanding masses
of rock. Most remarkable of these is the " Apostle,"
a lofty solid crag which from its commanding position
overlooks and dominates the glen. High up on one
side is a long narrow obelisk, rising straight and steep.
On the other side facing the harbour is a heavy broad
mass with straight, clean-cut face crowned at the top
with buttresses resembling a mediaeval castle. The glen
itself was in black shadow, and the last rays of the set-
ting sun lit up the summit of the island on which was
gathering a rolling mass of sombre clouds. The whole
setting was very beautiful and held us momentarily spell-
bound, none caring to speak. Fancy carried thoughts
back to the tales of childhood when gloomy keeps and
dungeons, knights and fiery dragons — the myths of later
years — had not ceased to be haunting realities.
I did not feel altogether at ease in this spot. Fierce
winds blowing gustily down the glen caused the ship
270 Shackleton's Last Voyage
to swing continually in different directions. There was
a considerable swell running in from the sea, and I knew
that a change of wind blowing strongly round South
East Point would make our position a very uncomfort-
able one. There was no moon and the night was black
as pitch. I had a sharp watch set, and as it was difficult
to get good bearings of the land ordered that soundings
with the hand lead be taken every half-hour.
I had already arranged for a party to go ashore the
next day : Wilkins and Marr to make natural history
collections, Douglas, Carr and Argles to do geological
and survey work, and Naisbitt, whose steady work on
the ship had earned him a run ashore, to act as cook.
Wilkins, as being the most experienced of these, was
placed in charge. I warned them to be ready at
daybreak.
The next day was fortunately fine. I took the boat
ashore with Macklin, Mcllroy and Kerr at the oars.
At the mouth of the glen there is a narrow beach
of large boulders. On the south side a stream runs
into the sea. " Archway Rock," a large rock eighty-
five feet high with a tunnel obviously drilled by the
running stream, gives an imperfect protection to this
side of the beach. A strong surf was running, but I
managed to effect a landing under the lee of the rock,
and after two journeys succeeded in putting the party
ashore with their equipment. This was not accom-
plished without considerable wetting. A strong wind
was blowing down the glen, and I was able to let the
boat lie off and with the boat's crew go ashore also.
Owing to the changeable conditions I did not care to
go far away from the landing-place, but I sent Macklin
up the glen to get a general impression of the higher
Diego Alvarez or Gough Island 271
parts of the island and if possible obtain some photo-
graphs, while with the others I explored the parts around
the landing-place and the glen.
The scientific party had brought with them two tents,
one of which they started to set up. The other was not
required, for we found on the flat piece of ground above
the beach two huts, one of wood and corrugated iron,
the other built of boulders from the beach and thatched
with tussock grass. Both of them were in fairly good
condition, and showed that the island had been recently
inhabited by someone. Mice swarmed; they were very
tame and showed little fear of us. All around lay in-
struments for mineralogical examination ; picks, shovels,
hand pump and hose, washing pans, mortar and pestle,
rope, axes and many other things. In the huts were cook-
ing utensils and a few unopened tins of preserved food,
some of which were badly " blown." I found on one
of the shelves a half-used box of matches, and test-
ing one I was surprised to find that it ignited readily.
There was a little cave to the right of the huts above
which a stone had been affixed, bearing the following
inscription :
F. X. Xeigler, R. I. Garden, J. Hagan,
W. Swaine, J. C. Fenton, Cape Town,
1/6/19.
The carving had been done by someone who knew
his job for it had been very neatly executed.
At the back of the hut and along the sides of the
stream were numerous trenches and excavations, appar-
ently where examinations had been made. One had
the impression that a search had been carried out for
diamonds or precious metal, but that nothing having
272 Shackleton's Last Voyage
materialized the party had just dumped down their tools
and decamped.
Vegetation appeared to be very luxuriant, tussock
grass growing in large clumps covered the flat ground.
Close to the beach and along the side of the stream
there were numerous wallows, which from their shape
and from the smell which emanated from them showed
that sea elephants frequented the island in large
numbers during certain seasons. I discovered two
young bulls lying in the stream close to the sea.
Ferns of many kinds grew everywhere. The slopes
were covered with masses of tree fern, and amongst
the smaller varieties was a very pretty maidenhair.
There were several clumps of wild celery. The only
trees on the island were island trees, which appar-
ently never grow to great size, but many of which were
larger and thicker than any I saw on Tristan da Cunha.
Birds resembling thrushes but of a yellowish-green
colour flew down and hopped about close to us. They
seemed to be quite unafraid, and were so tame that if
one kept still for a few minutes they would perch on
one's feet and could be easily caught by dropping a
hat over them. Sea-hens flew about overhead showing
a marked interest in the invaders, or, perched on some
near point of vantage, regarded proceedings with a
watchful eye. They did not allow anyone to approach
very close, but Argles, with a well-aimed geological
hammer, succeeded in knocking over two of them, which
proved a useful addition to the cooking-pot. Every
now and then I heard coming from the slopes the
occasional " chuck-chuck " of landrail, but the birds
remained hidden in the vegetation.
I went for a walk up the glen, following the course
Diego Alvarez or Gough Island 273
of the stream. Foothold was bad owing to the rocks
being covered by a slimy deposit brought from rotting
vegetation on the slopes. The water was coloured
slightly green by the products of decomposition, but was
used by the shore party for drinking and cooking pur-
poses, apparently with no ill effect.
In spite of the luxuriance of growth there is a great
deal of dampness and dank rottenness of the vegetation
which takes away much of its attractiveness. It is
possible that this is most marked at this time of the
year, i.e. June, mid-winter in the southern hemisphere,
and that in summer things are drier, fresher and more
pleasant. As I went along I caught an occasional
glimpse of the landrails with their bright red combs,
shiny black bodies and yellow legs. These flightless
birds have little runways amongst the grass where it
would be almost impossible to catch them alive. To
draw them out I tried a trick which I had often carried
out with success on Macquarie Island, imitating their
" chuck-chuck " by knocking two smooth stones sharply
together, but though I heard their answering calls draw-
ing nearer they showed a great reluctance to venture
into the open.
This is an island where a marooned or shipwrecked
party might live in comparative comfort. Instinctively,
whilst taking in all its possibilities, my mind reverted to
Elephant Island, the grim and barren spot where I
wintered with my party during the last Antarctic expedi-
tion, short of food and fuel, bitterly cold and devoid of
everything that makes life endurable. Here there is
abundance of food and plenty of wood to burn, drift
wood from the beach and the island tree wood. In
addition to the animal life we saw about us, the sea
274 Shackleton's Last Voyage
swarms with fish of excellent quality, and crayfish can
be easily caught from the rocks. There are also large
rookeries of rockhopper penguins (as we saw later)
which provide good meat and in the season abundance
of eggs. Small weather-proof dwellings of the type
used on Tristan da Cunha could be built from the
numerous small boulders on the beach and roofed over
with tussock grass. True, too long a sojourn might pro-
duce some of the disquietude of Alexander Selkirk, but
there would at least be no fear of starvation, and conv
pared with Elephant Island the place is a perfect
paradise. I returned to the landing-place, and with
Mcllroy and Kerr put off in the boat and rowed into
the belt of kelp where I was anxious to see what kinds
of fish could be caught about the island. It was un-
necessary to bait the hooks, a spinner bait or bright piece
of tin was sufficient. The fish bit readily and we quickly
collected all we required for food. The variety found
in the kelp and about the shore is a reddish-coloured
fish with strong horny spines. It is excellent to eat.
From the ship with strong lines and hooks we caught
" blue-fish " weighing up to forty pounds, which also
make good eating. Watts and Green, who are tireless
disciples of Izaak Walton, were responsible for many
of these catches. Crayfish were obtained by lowering a
weighted net baited with fish. Usually we hauled this
up full of them with others clinging to the outside. They
were to us a great delicacy.
In the afternoon Worsley and Jeffrey, with the
assistance of Dell and Ross, carried out a series of
soundings from the boat with a view to charting accur-
ately the anchorage. Later they went ashore and
measured the height of Archway Rock.
Diego Alvarez or Gough Island 275
I sent in the boat to be put ashore three of the geese
which we had brought from Tristan da Cunha. As the
boat neared the beach they did not wait to be lifted out,
but jumped over the gunwale into the water. They swam
round the Archway Rock and made a landing at the
foot of the small glen which opens to the sea there.
We did not see them again, but I was in hopes that
they would settle and breed.
Jeffrey, who is a keen observer and takes a close
interest in things generally, discovered a very pretty
maidenhair fern, a number of which he assiduously set
about collecting with roots complete for taking home.
On returning to the ship he placed them carefully in
a large pot. Having inadvertently left this on deck,
he returned to find that Bridget had discovered them
and with much appreciation had eaten the lot.
Before returning the party picked up Macklin and
brought him off. He had followed the main glen to
where it divided into two, taken the one to the right
till he reached the grass-covered higher slopes of the
island, made a traverse to the base of the " Apostle "
and returned by the other glen. The following descrip-
tion is from his diary :
After leaving Commander Wild I set off up the
glen, following as far as possible the course of the
stream. To appreciate the keen enjoyment of a walk
like this one must have spent many weary months
knocking about at sea in a small ship. The little
stream was very beautiful as it wound down the glen
with its deeps and shallows and little torrents. Every
turn produced a new and attractive picture, and the
setting behind with the Apostle standing out dominant
276 Shackleton's Last Voyage
and high was really magnificent. One had to pro-
ceed carefully, for the stones and boulders were very
slippery. Sometimes it became necessary to leave
the stream and take to the bank, but nowhere was the
going good. Having passed several waterfalls, I
came to a long straight stretch running between steep
sides covered over with branches of island tree to form
a long tunnelled archway. I waded along this to
encounter a high waterfall up the sides of which there
was no way. I was compelled to take to the bank,
climbing a steep mossy slope, and plunged in amongst
the trees and tree ferns which grow in thick masses
on either side of the glen, running upwards from the
edge of the stream to a height of about a thousand
feet. The going was now very difficult, for the water-
falls became too numerous and steep for one to con-
tinue following the stream. I forced my way with
difficulty through masses of fern and island tree all
soaking wet, much of it rotten and thickly covered
with lichen and other forms of parasite.
The glen divided into two and I chose the one
to the right, working my way laboriously till I reached
at last the upper edge of thick vegetation and emerged
on to grassy slopes, which were very sodden and
covered with numerous grasses and mosses. The air
blew pure and fresh, rather cold, but a welcome
change from the stuffy atmosphere of the thicker
vegetation. I was now able to get a look round.
The island certainly had a curious formation with
its rugged rocky pinnacles and ridges. I was at-
tracted by the huge mass of the Apostle and deter-
mined to make for it. This necessitated descending
into the glen, crossing the stream and climbing again
Photo: Dr. Macklin
THE QUEST SEEN THROUGH ARCHWAY ROCK, GOUGH ISLAND
rhoto: Dr. Macklin
DELL ROCKS, AT THE NORTH-EASTERN END OF GLEN BEACH
The photograph shows the steepness of the cliffs on Cough Island
Diego Alvarez or Gough Island 277
through the thick belt. I chose wherever possible
the course of small tributaries, but these dropped very
steeply and had many long thin waterfalls which fell
over smooth rock covered with moss, which readily
came away and afforded no hand or foothold. I
reached a ridge which rose in a series of thin sharp
rocky pinnacles, and working along this at last reached
the grass land at the foot of the Apostle. I made an
effort to climb the mass from the front, but was not
successful. The time limit allowed me by Com-
mander Wild was now up and I had to make my way
down again. The geological party, Douglas, Carr
and Argles, who came here later found an easy way
up by walking round to the back.
I descended into the other glen and attempted to
work down the stream, but found myself in a narrow
gorge between high, smooth walls of rock and, coming
to the head of a high waterfall, could find no way
down, so that I was compelled to go back out of the
gorge and come down through the vegetation on the
banks. This was almost as hard work as going up,
and long before I reached the bottom the climb had
ceased to be a pleasure and had become mere hard
work, increased by the fact that I had overstayed my
time and had to hurry. The fresh upland air was
changed again to the hot stuffiness of the valley, and
when I arrived at the landing-place I was soaked to
the skin as much with perspiration as with wet from
the outside. Anyone working through this vegetation
at this time of year must be prepared to get wetted
through, for everything is sodden.
Through being late I had to wait some time for
the boat, and cooled so rapidly that I was soon shiver-
278 Shackleton's Last Voyage
ing. Naisbitt had kindled a fire of driftwood, and I
was glad to sit in front of this. He also made me a
cup of tea which helped to warm me up.
A number of small and very tame mice came out
to regard me curiously; they must have been intro-
duced by the people who built the huts. One very
old one crept up to the warmth of the fire — it had very
shaky limbs and moved slowly and carefully — rather
like a doddery old man. I was taking a great interest
in it when Query came up to me, and catching sight
of it sitting in the fireglow casually bit it, killed it and
dropped it. The utter thoughtlessness and callous
cruelty of the act ! — and all the time he slowly
wagged his tail, oozing with friendliness and good
nature. . . .
It is probable that anyone visiting this island in
January would find conditions much more pleasant,
and to a botanist especially it should appeal as a fertile
field for research.
The early part of the night was fine. All round us
was a beautiful phosphorescence, the sea being covered
with waves of flame. Anything thrown overboard caused
ripples and splashes of liquid fire and the cable was a
chain of living light, the whole being accentuated by the
intense blackness of the night.
Whilst passing along the port alleyway I noticed just
opposite the galley a weird luminous glow emanating
from two large spots set closely together. They were
like the eyes of a large animal and produced momentarily
a creepy feeling. Closer examination revealed two cray-
fish as the source of this phenomenon. The flesh of
these creatures is brightly luminous, and wherever there
Diego Alvarez or Gough Island 279
are chinks in the horny coating and where it is thin the
light shines through.
Towards daybreak of the next morning the wind
increased and a strong swell started running into the
anchorage. Not caring to take any undue risks with
such an unpleasant lee shore, I heaved anchor and
steamed out past South East Point, keeping close into
the island to enable Worsley to carry out a series of
soundings.
The land along the south side of the island slopes
much more gradually to the summit than it does opposite
the Glen Anchorage, and the vegetation which is the
greatest bar to climbers is much less dense. Getting
ashore would be less easy than at the glen. There are
places where in fine weather a boat landing could be
effected, but the beaches are very narrow and unfit for
camping on. It would be necessary also before the
slopes are reached to surmount a short steep cliff up
which in many places a man unhandicapped by gear
might with comparative ease find a way, but where the
hauling up of camping equipment would be more diffi-
cult. Soundings were carried on throughout the day,
and Worsley and Jeffrey made a rough running survey
of the coast, mapping as accurately as possible the most
salient points and headlands. The wind coming more
westerly we returned at night to the Glen Anchorage.
The next day I intended putting Worsley and
Macklin ashore and set off in the boat with Mcllroy
and Kerr at the oars. There was, however, a much
bigger surf than we had encountered the previous day,
and a landing at the beach was quite out of the question.
I succeeded in putting the boat alongside the outer edge
of the Archway Rock on to which they scrambled. This
28o Shackleton's Last Voyage
side is very steep and they were unable to reach the
top which is overhanging. As a matter of fact, we dis-
covered later that there is a way up by a '* chimney "
at the point nearest the beach, but it was so thickly
covered with tussock grass as to be invisible from below.
Up this an active man carrying a coil of rope would
have comparatively little difficulty in making his way,
and a landing could be effected by this route when it
would be impossible at the beach.
Not willing to give up the attempt I took the boat
to the far side of the beach where a considerable swell
was running, but where the surf was to some extent
broken by a thick mass of seaweed. The swell, how-
ever, in spite of the weed was so high and steep that
we narrowly escaped being capsized and had to abandon
this also. I therefore gave up the attempt for that day
and rowed along the coast examining rocks and entering
numerous small caves. The water was beautifully clear
and the bottom easily visible, with growths of beautiful
seaweed and all manner of fish and crayfish.
During the next three days the swell increased, and
though we tried each day to land the attempt was
attended with so much risk of damage to the boat that
on each occasion I gave up the attempt.
The beaches are composed of large and irregularly
placed boulders, and many rocks but little submerged
and often awash complicate the approach. Our surf
boat was very lightly built, and under circumstances
like this there was a danger of her bottom being stove in
against the boulders. There was also a risk should she
get across one of the outlying rocks of being capsized
and swamped by the inrushing swell. We found that
the seas were so steep that when they had passed
Diego Alvarez or Gough Island 281
under our bottom the boat came down heavily on the
water with such a resounding smack that had she struck
something hard she must have immediately been stove
in. Indeed our attempt at landing provided us with
no little excitement, but I was fortunate in having with
me amongst the crew a number of cool and capable
oarsmen, and we escaped damage.
Another factor which adds to the difficulty of landing
at Gough Island is the force of the gusts which blow
down the glen. They come in whirls so that the boat
is blown violently first in one direction and then another,
and at this time of year are bitingly cold.
Examination of the records of other explorers who
have visited this island shows that there has always been
a difficulty in landing.
The time spent lying off an island in an exposed
anchorage is a trying one for all concerned, especially
for those on whom lies the responsibility of action. One
has to be continually on the watch for signs of change
of winds. At this time there was no moon and it was
difficult to fix the position of the ship by objects on shore.
The fierceness of the squalls and their continually
changing direction with consequent swing of the ship
created a danger of dragging the anchor. By bringing
the ship closer into the shore we escaped some of the
effects of wind and swell, but there was less room in
which to manoeuvre in case of accident. We had always
to keep the sounding-lead going, and I gave orders to
Kerr that he was to maintain the fires so that at fifteen
minutes' notice there could be a full pressure of steam
in the boilers.
I began to feel uneasy about the party on shore, for
unless we were very fortunate we might have to wait
282 Shackleton's Last Voyage
many days before we could take them off. At any time
we might be driven by stress of weather away from the
island, and in a ship of such low engine-power as the
Quest getting back might be a matter of difficulty. I
had also to consider the question of coal expenditure.
I determined, therefore, to seize the first opportunity of
picking them up.
During the night we had vicious hailstorms, and
the squalls which blew off shore out of the mouth of the
glen increased in violence.
In the morning, with Mcllroy, Macklin and Kerr,
I took the boat in to the beach, and using a stern anchor
was able to effect a landing close to the Archway Rock.
I shouted to Wilkins to get together his party and
equipment and come aboard. Unfortunately Douglas,
Carr and Argles had gone out the previous day and had
camped for the night farther up the hill, and Wilkins did
not expect them back till late. I therefore took off
Naisbitt and him, with as much equipment as was not
necessary for the night. I left Marr behind with a
message that all were to be ready to come off as soon
as possible. Getting the gear aboard was a ticklish
matter, for seas came heavily over the stern, and fierce
squalls with hail blowing in our faces from the hills
helped to make things more unpleasant. Macklin and
Kerr leapt into the sea to assist with the loading, and no
one escaped a good soaking. We got off without mishap,
however, and returned to the ship. During the night
the gusts at the mouth of the glen had been so violent
that the tent was blown in and the party compelled to
move to the hut. Wilkins writes : " During a violent
squall of hail and sleet our tent was literally blown from
the ropes, leaving us exposed beneath the skeleton of
Diego Alvarez or Gough Island 283
ridge pole and guys. The wind, although not blowing
a continuous hurricane, sweeps down the gullies and over
the cliffs in terrific gusts at the rate of more than a hun-
dred miles an hour." As a matter of fact, the party,
none of whom apparently were accustomed to tent life
under these conditions, were asking for trouble, for they
had pitched the tent broadside to the gusts and had left
guys and skirting very slack. It is important in high
winds to cut out all shake and flutter or the canvas will
eventually tear itself to ribbons.
I had a good look round for any signs of the geese
which we put ashore, but saw nothing of them. They
should have no difficulty in finding ample food.
In the afternoon Worsley, with Macklin, Dell and
Watts, took the boat to look at a cave farther along the
coast. On entering they found that it had a large shaft
open to the sky down which a cascade of water was
pouring. Worsley carried out some more soundings
with the hand-lead, taking a line across the mouth of
the bay.
Next morning the upper slopes of the island were
covered in white, the result of the hailstorms.
I saw that landing would be no easy matter, but
determined to make an attempt to take off the rest of
the shore party. I attempted the beach landing, but
had to give it up. I therefore told the party to carry
their equipment to the top of Archway Rock, taking
with them a rope to lower themselves to the rocks at
the bottom, from which it would be possible to pick
them off. Rain and hail squalls blew all the time and
waiting in the boat was very unpleasant. They had a
difficult job but succeeded in massing the gear at the
top. Carr descended, having secured the rope to an
284 Shackleton's Last Voyage
island tree. He discovered the chimney which had been
invisible from below. It is situated on the bay side of
the rock close to the corner nearest the beach. Twice
Marr nearly stepped over the overhanging edge, but was
warned in the nick of time by our shouts. Query, who
accompanied the shore party, was lowered in a sack.
Ultimately we got the whole party safely off and
returned in violent squalls to the ship.
We left the Glen Anchorage and proceeded in a
north-westerly direction to a sheltered spot close to the
high rounded column of " Lot's Wife," certainly well
named for it forms an unmistakable mark. We anchored
opposite a waterfall in eight and a half fathoms, and
Worsley, Macklin, Wilkins and Douglas went ashore.
At this point there is a narrow beach with a small piece
of flat land behind it from which the island rises steeply
to a summit crowned with a mass of rock. Between the
waterfall and the point there is a large penguin rookery,
deserted at this time of the year except for a few rock-
hoppers, whose lives were claimed on scientific grounds.
Wilkins added a number of specimens to his collection,
and Macklin caught a landrail alive, which was found
to be blind of one eye, this no doubt being the reason
why he was able to stalk it. He materialistically de-
signed it for the pot, but as it was a perfect specimen
Wilkins asked if he might have it for his collection.
We lay at anchor for the night, and at daybreak next
morning, June 3rd, set off for Cape Town.
Wilkins and his party during their stay on the island
had accomplished some very good work. Assisted by
Marr, who thoroughly enjoyed his camping experience,
he made a large collection of animal and plant life and
obtained a number of photographs. Unfortunately the
Photo: Dr. RlackUn
LOT'S WIFE GOVE AND CHURCH ROCKS, GO UGH ISLAND
Diego Alvarez or Gough Island 285
light was not good. Douglas, Carr and Argles made a
rough survey of this part of the island and carried out
a geological examination of the glen and uplands. They
reached the highest point, which proved to be 2,915 feet
in height. To do this they spent a night in the open
covered only by a floor cloth. It was bitterly cold but
the vegetation was far too damp to enable them to start
a fire.
Douglas, though not a botanist, made a very interest-
ing observation. In the " Little Glen," just to the south
of Archway Rock, he discovered a grove of trees which
he describes as " growing as if planted in an orchard,"
attaining a height of thirteen or fourteen feet, and
covering ground of about twelve feet diameter. It
differs in many respects from the island tree, and
Wilkins considers it to be a species of sophora which is
found in New Zealand and parts of South America. Its
features are intermediate in type between those of the
trees found in these respective places.
Naisbitt took charge of the camp and acted as cook,
which duties he seems to have carried out well.
The party left behind a considerable quantity of
preserved provisions, which they carefully stored in the
hut, for they had taken ashore a larger supply than was
necessary for their own needs. I hope if it is the lot
of any to be compelled by accident to sojourn on this
island that these stores will add something to their
comfort, though with all the equipment and shelter
left by the mining party and the abundance of natural
resources I would have no fear for their safety.
As much hydrographical and survey work as possible
was carried out on the ship. An examination of anchor-
ages, one on the north coast, one on the south coast,
286 Shackleton^s Last Voyage
and two on the east coast showed that shelter might
be found from northerly, southerly or westerly winds.
There are no sheltered bays, each anchorage being an
open roadstead. None of them can be considered safe
for ships without steam, and the latter should at all times
be prepared to get under way at very short notice.
The Glen Anchorage affords good holding ground.
The positions of Penguin Island, the Glen Anchor-
age and Lot's Wife Cove were definitely established.
A good rough survey was made of the eastern and
northern coasts and a rough running survey of the rest
of the island. Soundings and examinations were made
for all dangers and rocks round the coast. The height
of several rocks and cliffs on the eastern coast were
accurately determined.
There are no outlying dangers about Gough Island.
Jeffrey carried out tidal observations during our stay.
There is no doubt that the work of the scientific
parties and the observations taken on and about
Gough Island, when fully worked out, will prove most
interesting.
CHAPTER XIV
CAPE TOWN
ON June 3rd we set course for Cape Town, where
I should be able to get into communication with
Mr. Rowett. We had had a pretty hard and trying time,
but I should have liked to have one more season in the
Enderby Quadrant. The Quest had her faults — ^too
many — but yet I had learned to love this little ship for
all her waywardness. I had come to believe that much
might be accomplished by making Cape Town our
starting point and setting out early in the season.
On mature consideration, however, I realized that it
was inevitable that we must return home, for I knew
that we had almost reached the time limit arranged by
Sir Ernest Shackleton. There was still much work to
be done, for we had to call at St. Helena, Ascension
Island and St. Vincent. If time permitted, I intended
to include South Trinidad Island also. I was anxious
for Douglas to make a geological examination of these
places so that he might be able to link them up with the
islands we had already visited.
After leaving Gough Island we had had head winds
and seas, and consequently made little progress.
We slaughtered Bridget and cut her up, Dell being
the murderer. She was very fat and in excellent condi-
tion, and made a welcome change of fare.
The wind fell off a little on June 4th and 5th
and came abaft the beam, enabling us to shut off steam
287
288 Shackleton's Last Voyage
and proceed under sail only. We were now short of coal
and had to economize so that we should have a supply
sufficient to take us into port. The ship also was very
light, as a result not only of the depleted bunkers, but
also from the lightening of the fore-hold of the mails and
stores which were put ashore at Tristan da Cunha.
I was now proceeding to enable Worsley to look for
a reef reported by the whalers of South Georgia as seen
in the neighbourhood of position lat. 35° 4' S. and
5° 20' W. long. (350 miles east by north of Tristan da
Cunha). Captain Hansen, of the Orwell, was very
positive on the matter, stating that whilst proceeding
from Cape Town to South Georgia he had seen breaking
water and strands of kelp in this position. We took a
series of soundings, which showed no signs of shoaling,
and the snapper revealed bottom specimens of white
clay.
On June 6th we started cleaning up the paint-work
in an endeavour to make the ship look moderately
respectable for our entry into Cape Town, but I am
afraid that as a result of the hard battering which she
received in the South she still had a very weather-beaten
appearance in spite of any efforts we made in this way.
Dell again had some butchering to do. He skinned one
of the Tristan sheep, which proved to be very scraggy.
We spent the day making a traversing cruise, looking
for the reported reef, but saw absolutely no indications
of its presence in this position. Three successive sound-
ings showed not less than 1,900 fathoms, with the same
globigerinous ooze bottom we had found since leaving
Gough Island.
On June 7th we still traversed in search of the reef.
We made another attempt to obtain soundings, but the
THE QUEST ENTERliNG TABLE BAY
Note the scarring of her timbers
TJ//; QUEST y.
THE QUEST IN DOCK AT GAPE TOWN
Showing her size as compared with that of a modern sailing ship
Photo: W ilk ins
TflE SUMMIT OF ASCENSION ISLAND
Cape Town 289
wind and sea increased so much that it was impossible
to keep the ship over the lead. Dell, at the Lucas
machine, had a trying time, for he was continually being
immersed. After 580 fathoms of wire had been run out
I ordered him to reel in, and we headed off direct for
Table Bay. The wind continued to increase in force,
and, coming ahead, blew up from the south-east with
heavy squalls of rain.
On the 8th and 9th we had a strong gale in which the
now much lightened Quest flung herself about in the
most lively manner, and much water came over our rails.
On the 9th the Quest excelled everything she had
ever done in the way of rolling, and though we were by
now well accustomed to her little ways, it was only with
the greatest difficulty that we could move about the
decks, passing quickly from one support to another.
On this day Query was washed overboard. He had
become so confident and sure-footed that we had long
ceased to have any fears on his behalf. Dell had just
finished skinning our second Tristan sheep, and was in
process of hanging it to a stay on the bridge deck.
Query, taking as usual an active interest in the pro-
ceedings, had followed him up. The ship was struck by
a heavy sea, which caused her to throw herself violently
to leeward, and Query was carried under the griping spar
of the port life-boat. Jeffrey, who was on watch, imme-
diately stopped the engines and attempted to wear ship,
but in these heavy seas any attempt at a rescue was
impossible. Poor Query ! he must have wondered why
the usual helping hand was not forthcoming, as it had
so often been on previous occasions to help him out of
his scrapes. His loss caused a real hurt.
On the loth conditions were much the same, with
T
290 Shackleton's Last Voyage
heavy squalls at intervals. The wind hauled a point, and
at 2 P.M. we set the foresail and stopped the engines.
We logged 5 knots as an average, and 6 to 7 during
the squalls. In the middle watch at night I saw a perfect
lunar rainbow stretching in a big arc across our bows.
On the I ith and 12th the wind fell light and we had
fine weather. I set all hands to cleaning up, for this
work had been suspended during the bad weather. We
could do nothing to the outside of the ship, which was
so scratched and scarred as to make hopeless any attempt
to improve it. We managed, however, to brighten up the
wardroom and cabins a little. " Old Mac " scraped the
foremast — a difficult job on account of the heavy rolling
— but it greatly improved our appearance. This fine old
seaman is a product of the old-time sailing ships, a real
sailor of a type only too rare to-day. He has made three
voyages to the Antarctic.
The rest of this portion of the trip was uneventful
till, on the 17th, we sighted on the horizon the Cape of
Good Hope and saw Table Mountain appear from
behind the clouds. We entered Table Bay early in the
morning of Sunday, June i8th.
At Cape Town we were met by our agents and Mr.
Cook, who was acting as Mr. Rowett's representative.
They brought us a big mail. It was interesting to see the
members crowd round till they had received their letters,
when each man sought out a quiet corner to which he
might retire and read them undisturbed by anyone.
After the usual formalities had been gone through,
we were piloted to a snug berth in the Alfred Dock. It
was not until I had seen the comments in the Cape Town
Press that I realized how much battered our little ship
had been in her arduous struggle with the heavy seas and
Cape Town 291
ice. One paper spoke of her as " small, unpretentious,
but grizzly looking, and bearing signs where the ice
had scored furrows in her planks." Another described
her as " a black, stubby little boat, steaming into Cape
Town unknown, unannounced . . . the leaden skies, the
cold green waters of the harbour, the sullen murkiness
of the distant sea, the little furtive showers of rain, all
seemed to claim the little ship as part of themselves,
catch her up and absorb her into them as an essential
part of the picture. . . ."
All were amazed at her size, and few believed that so
small a craft could have accomplished so much and
covered so great a distance. We had the warmest of
welcomes from the people of South Africa, and during
our stay were so lavishly entertained by these hospitable
folk that each one of us must carry for ever a warm spot
in his heart for Cape Town and its inhabitants.
We were received by the Prime Minister (General
Smuts) and entertained by him and his wife at their
beautiful house at Groote Schur.
The ship was visited by many of the prominent
people of South Africa, including members of the House
of Parliament, which was then in session. All of them
took a very keen interest in the regions we had visited,
especially in Tristan da Cunha, the islands about it, and
Gough Island. Much sympathy was expressed at the
state of destitution in which we had found the people of
Tristan da Cunha, and the Ca-pe Argus, an enterprising
and yery efficiently staffed daily paper, immediately
started making arrangements for a relief ship to visit
them, and asked our advice as to the most suitable type
of vessel for the work. It was hoped that she would be
able to sail about the beginning of January, that being
292 Shackleton's Last Voyage
the most suitable time of year for effecting a landing on
the island.
The Enderby Quadrant of the Antarctic is also of
special interest to South Africans because the climatic
conditions there have a large bearing upon the weather
of Cape Colony. The Meteorological Office of South
Africa was anxious for a preliminary report of our
meteorological work, which Mcllroy gave them.
I gave Douglas permission to spend his time in
Johannesburg, for as a geologist he was very anxious to
visit the mining areas. He was accompanied by Wilkins.
Invitations poured in for the various members to visit
the different parts of the country about Cape Town, but
though I much regretted having to decline them, I was
unable to give any further leave, as the different
members were required for work about the ship.
As is common on the occasion of the return of an
expedition from the Antarctic, most of the party were
attacked by " colds in the head." Influenza was preva-
lent in the town and found two ready victims, first in
Macklin, who contracted it soon after our arrival, and,
later, myself.
Much repair work and general overhauling was
necessary on the Quest. I had it put in hand at once.
The engines, which under the careful nursing of Kerr,
Smith and their staff had withstood the hard conditions
remarkably well, now required an overhaul before we
could again put to sea. The rigging was reset up and all
necessary repairs completed. The ship received a new
coating of paint, which completely transformed her
battered appearance and made her once more a smart-
looking little vessel. Fresh stores were taken aboard,
and, the work completed, we left next day for the naval
Cape Town 293
dockyard at Simonstown. Several of our friends made
the trip with us, including a number of Boy Scouts who
had been assisting aboard the ship, but the Quest, revert-
ing quickly to her old antics, made them wish they had
stayed ashore.
We were most kindly received by Admiral Sir
William Goodenough, who gave us a snug berth in the
harbour. I am much indebted to him for his kindness
during the time we remained in Simonstown. Here again
we received every kindness from the officers of the ships
attached to this base, especially those of H.M.S. Lowes-
toft and Dublin, who welcomed us with the proverbial
open-handedness of the Navy.
On July 13th, the day of our departure, we had the
honour of a visit from the Governor-General, H.R.H.
Prince Arthur of Connaught, who, accompanied by
Admiral Sir William Goodenough, made an inspection
of the ship and took a keen interest in everything he saw.
My attack of influenza had been a very severe one
and left me feeling very weak. I was fortunate in
making an uncomplicated recovery. My best thanks are
due to Mr. and Mrs. John Jeffrey, old friends with whom
I stayed during my illness and whose many kindnesses
I shall not easily forget.
In order not to delay the sailing of the Quest, I re-
joined her earlier, perhaps, than was advisable, and on
arrival at the dockyard felt so exhausted that I was com-
pelled to take to my bunk at once.
Before finally leaving we swung the ship to adjust
compasses. This was again done for us by Commander
Traill-Smith, R.N., who had so kindly performed this
office on our leaving Plymouth, and who had since our
departure been transferred to this base.
CHAPTER XV
ST. HELENA — ASCENSION ISLAND — ST. VINCENT
FOR the first few days at sea after leaving Cape
Town I was obliged to keep my bunk, but the
care of the doctors, the solicitous attentions of Green,
who went to all sorts of length to produce delicacies for
me, and the good salt air worked wonders, and I began
to regain strength and was soon up and about.
As I was in bed the following is quoted verbatim
from Macklin's diary :
July i^th.
A lovely sunny day with smooth sea, and the Quest
behaving better than she has ever done before. Surely
this is a prelude to something wicked — I do not trust
the Quest when she is good.
Worsley took the ship close in to Sea Point to
enable us to signal good-bye to our many friends
there, after which we put out to the open ocean. We
passed close to a small fishing boat and called her
alongside to enable one of our members to pass
over a letter for his latest best girl. A sailor, of
course ! with a girl in every port, but I omit his
name. I took the opportunity of buying some fresh
fish, for which I exchanged some tobacco and ship's
biscuits.
It was a lovely afternoon, and all about the ship
were numbers of seabirds — gulls, albatross and shags.
294
St. Helena to St. Vincent 295
In the water were penguins (a type not found in the
Antarctic), seals, turtles and sharks. This part of the
ocean must simply teem with life to support all these
large animals.
About 5 P.M. a big Castle liner passed us homeward
bound, and Wuzzles changed course to enable us to
give a shout to Cookie, who was aboard. The skipper,
however, must have been watching through his glasses,
and, seeing what a crowd of toughs we were (Wuzzles
prominent on the bridge), sheered widely off and
passed us too far away to distinguish individuals.
Commander Wild is very limp. He had a very
bad attack of " flu." He's a hard case, and it takes a
lot to upset him. A few of Green's egg-flips and the
salt air will soon set him on his feet again.
Sunday, July i6th.
Yesterday was a fine day, most of which I spent
below hatches making, with Marr's assistance, a final
stowage and getting things ready for sea.
To-day has been perfectly lovely. Had the
4.0-8.0 A.M. watch, and Dell, Mick and I had just
scrubbed down decks, and made a jolly good job of it
too, when the stokers started cleaning pipes and
simply covered the whole ship with soot and ashes.
We blessed them fervently for this good beginning to
a Sabbath Day, the rest of which we spent trying to
get our cabins and living quarters clear of the mess
they had made.
Commander Wild is much better, though he is not
yet all right, as he seems to think. I allowed him up
to sit in the sun for a little while.
The Windsor Castle passed and signalled us " A
296 Shackleton's Last Voyage
pleasant yoyage." We dipped ensigns. There is
something rather nice about these sea courtesies.
Bosson, Green's new mate, entrusted with a carv-
ing knife, succeeded in nearly severing one finger.
July i()th.
Weather has continued fine, with fair, following
winds. Commander Wild improving steadily and eat-
ing better than I have ever known him to do. He has
a good deal to make up, for he lost a great deal of
weight in Cape Town.
Yesterday I stowed some cases for Jeff and bound
them with pyrometa wire. To-day Jeff and Dell re-
moved the wardroom stove, which we shall no longer
need, thank goodness, for with the down draught from
squaresail and topsail the smoke nearly always went
the wrong way.
July 20th.
Engines stopped, and we lay to for a bottom
dredging. We wound in the line by hand. Good old
man-power ! — we always come down to it in the end.
The whole job took about eight hours; it is good
exercise, but towards the end becomes a bit of a toil.
Whilst stopped we were surrounded by albatross,
and Green and Watts succeeded in catching some
alive. Good-looking birds were passed to Wilkins,
the poorer specimens were set free (this is subject for
a moral).
The next few days were uneventful. I had by now
quite got over my illness and begun to go about as usual.
On July 27th we arrived at St. Helena, which was of
interest to me because in my first voyage as a boy in an
St. Helena to St. Vincent 297
old sailing ship we had called here and I had not been
back since.
This island has a most interesting history. It was
first discovered in 1592 by Juan de Nova Castilla, one
of the enterprising Portuguese navigators of those days,
who claimed it for Portugal. Since then it has two or
three times changed hands. The East India Company
used it as a port of call for a long time, but handed it
over to the British Government in 1833. Under the
company's administration the island prospered exceed-
ingly. The famous navigator, Captain Cook, who visited
the island in 1775, speaks of finding its people " Hying
in delightful little homes amongst pleasant surround-
ings," and describes them as the nicest people of English
extraction he had ever met. The Government, on taking
over, seemed to have a much less sympathetic under-
standing of the island and its people, for since that time
its prosperity has steadily declined. It was used and is
chiefly known to the world as the prison of such men as
Napoleon, Cronje and others.
From the sea the island is very unprepossessing,
rising steeply from the water's edge and looking bare,
hot and dry. Jamestown, the port, lies in a valley which
runs backwards and upwards from the sea in a straggling
and ever-narrowing line. From the anchorage one gets
a refreshing glimpse of green on the inner slopes. One
of the first things that catches the eye on looking ashore
is a huge ladder, nearly a thousand feet long and over
six hundred feet high, which passes from Jamestown to
the summit of Ladder Hill. It contains seven hundred
steps, to the top of which, in days gone by, a postman
carrying his bag of letters used to run without a halt.
Having passed through the usual port formalities, I
298 Shackleton's Last Voyage
got ready to go ashore. Whilst preparing to leave, the
ship was called up from the " Observatory," and I
received an invitation from H.E. the Governor to lunch
at his house, together with two or three of my officers.
I took Worsley, Mcllroy and Macklin with me.
Jamestown is protected from the sea by a wall, and
we entered through iron gates which no doubt in the
days of Napoleon always had an armed guard. There
is nothing of that sort to-day, and, indeed, St. Helena
is an island that has " seen better days." At one time
a flourishing settlement and an important military station
famous as the prison of Napoleon, it is now almost
forgotten by the rest of the world.
We procured a carriage, drawn by two small but
sturdy horses, and set off for the " Plantations " at the
summit of the island where the Governor's house is
situated. The climb was a stiff one, and to ease the
horses we walked up most of the way. At first the road
was bare and dry, cut from rocks of obviously volcanic
origin, the only vegetation an occasional dusty cactus
growing here and there. As we mounted, however, we
entered a greener area, with vegetation which increased
in luxuriance till, at the top, we saw that the inner parts
of the island were really very fertile. The air also was
purer and more fresh. I was struck by the appearance
of the " mina " birds, which have a pretty dark brown
and white colouring, and at first sight resemble magpies.
They were introduced to the island for the purpose of
killing insects.
We had a most pleasant lunch with H.E. the
Governor (Colonel Peel) and his wife. The house has a
very fine outlook down a valley to the sea, and is situated
in very beautiful grounds which contain a number of
St. Helena to St. Vincent 299
interesting trees : oaks, Scotch firs, spruces and Norfolk
pines, and a tree with dark foliage and brilliant scarlet
blossom. Numerous white arum-like lilies grow in pro-
fusion, and many other flowers, including a beautiful
small blue flower with a pleasant fresh scent. It was a
very happy change from our sea life. We were intro-
duced to a huge tortoise, reputed to be two hundred years
old, which sometimes leaves the grounds for the road
and causes all the horses which encounter it to shy.
When this happens a cart is sent out to fetch it home.
It takes six men to lift it off the road.
After lunch we paid a visit to the tomb of Napoleon
and the house at Longwood where he lived whilst on
the island. The tomb is in a deep hollow, and for so
great a man is very unimposing. It is covered with a
large marble slab, blank, with no inscription of any sort.
Some time after his death his body was exhumed and
taken to Paris, when it was laid finally in Les InvalideSy
where a magnificent and more fitting tomb has been
erected to his memory. The house at Longwood also is
unimposing. One can imagine how his restless spirit
must have chafed at its confinement. The rooms are
kept spotlessly clean, but are bare except that in the
small chamber where he died there is a bust set on a
long pedestal hung with a few bedraggled pieces of
tricolour ribbon. It contained also, when we were there,
a baby's perambulator, but was otherwise empty. The
sight of this house caused me to feel a great pity for its
prisoner.
I learned from the Governor that whilst aliye he had
been well treated, having had an allowance from the
English Government of ^12,000 per annum.
The island inland from the sea is very hilly and
300 Shackleton's Last Voyage
divided into numerous ridges and valleys. There is not
a really good piece of flat land anywhere. The valleys
are very fertile. Owing to the steepness of the roads we
proceeded most of the way on foot, leaving the paths,
which zigzagged, and making straight traverses across
the fields. Brambles grow profusely, and at this time a
number of blackberries were ripe. Gorse and broom
covered the hillsides with yellow. The chief industry
of the island seems to be the growing of New Zealand
flax and the making of it into fibre. During the war
they obtained the most phenomenal prices, which, how-
ever, have since dropped to normal. The flora generally
of St. Helena is very interesting, for there are over sixty
native species of plants, nearly all of them peculiar to
the island. Every now and then we caught glimpses of
pretty little residences situated in gardens of their own.
We met numerous people, including a number of British
folk, driving in their carriages — it seems to be the custom
here to greet everyone one meets.
The natives we met showed unmistakable signs of a
very mixed origin. In the days of the East India Com-
pany labour was imported from India and from China,
and on frequent occasions natives of different parts of
Africa have been introduced. The African type pre-
dominates.
We next visited the station of the Eastern Telegraph
Company, where we met the manager and his wife.
They have a very nice place, situated in beautiful
grounds containing masses of bougainvillaea, geranium,
scarlet hibiscus and many other kinds of blossom. They
have bananas and guavas in abundance, but oranges do
not grow well.
They told me that the natives of the island, of which
St. Helena to St. Vincent 301
there are about 3,000, are very badly off, for there is
practically no work for them to do. Some of them look
half starved. A lace industry was started about twenty
years ago by an Englishwoman. The lace is said to be
of good quality, but I did not have the opportunity of
seeing any.
We returned to the ship about 6.30 p.m., and imme-
diately set off for Ascension Island.
In the meantime Douglas had made a brief geological
examination of the main features of the island. There
was not time to do more.
Bosson, the new hand taken on at Cape Town, whom
I had allowed to go for a run ashore, fell into a cactus
bush, and did not forget the fact in the next few days.
We had an uninterrupted run to Ascension Island,
where I intended to take in coal. As we approached we
saw hundreds of birds, which flew squawking overhead,
but were apparently intent on their fishing, and took
very little notice of the ship. We arrived and dropped
anchor about 8 p.m. on August ist.
From the shore we received a signal to ask if we had
a clean bill of health, and soon after the officer com-
manding the station came off to visit us in a boat pulled
by several hefty bluejackets. He announced that at the
moment of our arrival an interesting and unusual event
had taken place : the birth of a child. I learned from
him that I could get what coal I required to take me on
to St. Vincent.
August 2nd was a rather muggy day. The ship was
surrounded by thousands of fish of a dark purple colour
with white patches on their tails. They rushed at any-
thing edible that was thrown overboard, and the water
was lashed into foam by their efforts to get at it. It was
302 Shackleton's Last Voyage
really a wonderful sight. They could not be induced to
take a hook and fought very shy of anything with a line
on it. Green, the enthusiast, tried all morning to catch
some, but without success. He succeeded, however,
by putting out more line, in catching a red spiny variety
at a deeper level. He also caught a shark.
I sent ashore the scientists, and later went myself
with Mcllroy and Macklin. On landing, Macklin saw
an officer of marines to whom he said : '* Your face is
familiar to me. Where have I seen you before ? "
Apparently they had met somewhere in Russia. It was
rather extraordinary meeting again in this out-of-the-way
little spot in tropical mid-Atlantic. We went on to the
" Club," where we met several more officers of the station
and a number of the Eastern Telegraph Company's
officials.
The island is bare, sandy and desolate looking. The
barracks and officers' quarters are at sea level. The
latter consist of neat little bungalows, about which some
pretty blossom has been induced to grow.
The troops and naval ratings wear solar topees,
khaki shorts and shoes. Usually they have no stockings.
The soldiers have khaki shirts, and the ratings white
jumpers. There are a number of women on the island.
They wear light cotton dresses and often have no stock-
ings— a sane and healthy fashion for this part of the
world.
After lunch Macklin went off to see one of the sights
of the island — the nesting-ground of the " Wideawakes."
He writes :
After leaving Commander Wild and Mick, I
walked out to " Wideawake Valley," so called because
St. Helena to St. Vincent 303
of the number of birds which nest there. It is an
extraordinary sight. There are millions of them,
covering the ground for acres. They lay a single egg,
about the size of a bantam's and spotted. Many of
the chicks had hatched out. If one goes too near they
rush frantically about and lose their parents, and if
they intrude too much on their neighbours sometimes
get pecked to death. Many of the birds rise up and
come flying, with raucous din, all about one's head.
The noise is maddening. Having seen what I wanted
to see, I was glad to get away. I left the track I had
come by and returned across country. The going off
the tracks is very bad indeed, the surface of the island
being much broken and covered with a short dry grass
amongst which were numerous stones and boulders,
which tired one's feet very much. The heat, too, was
considerable, and I was glad when I reached the club
and obtained a long, cool drink, which was very
comforting to my parched throat.
During the afternoon the Durham Castle came
in. This is a bi-monthly event, and throws the
whole island into a fluster. I took Worsley, Mcllroy
and Macklin aboard, when we met the captain and
the ship's doctor. I dined in the evening with the
commandant.
On August 3rd preparations were started for the
coaling. The coal is of the poorest quality, consisting
of dust and slag, and the price we were charged was
exorbitant, but I was obliged to the commandant for
being at pains to give us the best he could under the
circumstances.
Scientific work was continued, and Macklin and Kerr
304 Shackleton's Last Voyage
went off in the boat to another part of the island to obtain
some different varieties of fish.
In the evening we dined at the mess of the Eastern
Telegraph Company, where we had a very merry even-
ing. Most of us slept ashore, being kindly put up by
members of the telegraph company. Douglas and Marr,
who had ascended to the high part of the island, were
very kindly accommodated by Mr. and Mrs. Cronk at
their pretty house on the hill.
Coaling was continued on the 4th. The coal is put
into bags at the dump and loaded into lighters, which
are taken off by a tug and laid alongside the ship. The
work is often awkward on account of the swell. It was
a messy business, and the ship soon became covered in
every part of her with dust. It took us many days to get
really clean again. In order to keep an eye on things,
I stayed near the scene of operations. Macklin ascended
to the summit, and the following account from his diary
is fairly descriptive of the island :
I went ashore early with Wilkins, who had with
him his camera and cinematograph machine. He was
going off with the commandant in a pinnace to an
island where there was a large number of birds.
I first of all walked about the station and took a
number of snapshots, after which I set off up the dusty
track leading to Green Hill. It was a blazing hot day,
and I wore nothing but singlet, shorts and shoes, and
had a good sun hat. This garb was cool and gave a
delightful sense of freedom in movement, but it
proved, to my cost, to be an inadequate protection
from the sun.
I passed en route the wireless station, which has
Photo: Dr. Mncklin
THE ABANDONED WIRELESS STATION ON ASCENSION ISLAND
•dk.
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:F
' ^A /
^-^' y^
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PJwto: IVilkins
FLOWERING PLANTS GROWING IN THE VOLCANIC ASH AT ASCENSION ISLAND
> >
WIDEAWAKK PLAIN. ASCENSION ISLAND. WHICH IS COVEKKD WITH
THOUSANDS OF BIRDS
A WIDHAWAKE
St. Helena to St. Vincent 305
been abandoned. Its six immense poles are cemented
and stayed in such a manner as to make the removal of
them not worth the labour. The track led up a gentle
slope over sandy ground that supported a few low-
lying shrubs but very little else. Farther towards the
summit the vegetation increased a little, with cactus
plants and a few aloes. Still farther up an attempt
had been made to plant trees along the sides of the
track, and, considering the dry, hard nature of the
earth, they were growing not badly, but gave little
impression of greenery. I continued along the main
track till I reached eventually a point marked by the
two halves of a boat which had been set up on
either side* of the road. The gentle slope was now
replaced by a more steeply rising mountain face, up
which the main track zigzagged so much as to make
the total distance a very long one. I accordingly left
it for a steeper but straighter track. The air was now
fresher, and the higher one climbed the more abund-
ant became the vegetation, which included trees —
palms, pines, firs, eucalyptus — and a tree with bright
yellow flowers which I did not recognize. There were
ferns of several sorts, small flowering shrubs, thistles
with a yellow flower, and, higher up the mountain, a
species of scarlet hibiscus.
Grasshoppers were numerous. They hopped off
the ground in much the same manner as an English
grasshopper, but were capable of a certain power of
flight. I saw also a number of beetles, rats and land-
crabs, but animal life generally is scarce.
Near the top of Green Mountain there are a few
little residences situated in very pretty gardens.
Indeed, the whole of the island above a certain level
3o6 Shackleton's Last Voyage
is very beautiful and a paradise as compared with
the hot, dusty garrison at the base.
Near the summit I came to a house surrounded by
a picturesque garden containing many trees and
shrubs with bright blossom. I learned that it belonged
to the " Farm Superintendent." At this point a
corporal of marines approached me, and remarking
that I looked hot, asked me if I would like a glass of
beer. I was hot, and the suggestion was too alluring
to be refused, though I had doubts as to the wisdom
of it, seeing that I had still many miles of hot walking
ahead of me. There is a small signal station here,
and the corporal took me to his quarters, from where
I had a magnificent view of the slopes of the island
and of the sea, covered with twinkling points, stretch-
ing like a flat board to a far distant horizon. There is
a small farm which supplied the station with fresh
meat, milk, etc. I had a look at the cowhouses, which
literally swarmed with rats of enormous size. There
are also some hen-runs and pig-sties, and a number of
sheep graze on the hills.
Thanking the friendly corporal, I pushed on over
a grassy slope dotted about with trees, and finally
reached the summit, where there is a thick plantation
of bamboos, the stems of which rattled in the strong
south-east trades. In the middle of it there is a pond
of very stagnant water. The view from the top is
wonderful, every part of the island being clearly
visible. All about the upper slopes are asphalted
watersheds leading to storage tanks. All the water
for the garrison and the other buildings at the base
of the island comes from the summit, and is conducted
there by pipes.
St. Helena to St. Vincent 307
Descending the farther slopes, I came to the
entrance to a long narrow tunnel cut through the hill.
It had been dug by the military detachment many
years before, quite for what purpose I did not learn.
It is low, narrow and pitchy black, but there is a hand-
wire by using which as a guide one can go steadily
forward. It emerges in a corner of the farm superin-
tendent's garden.
I had lunch on the summit with Mr. and Mrs.
Cronk. They have two pretty children. Mr. Cronk
has been farm superintendent for twenty-five years.
It must be a funny life in this remote spot. He is
responsible for all the vegetation, and takes a great
pride in his work — certainly he has made his mark on
the world. The whole garrison is being removed, and
is due to leave in a few months. He goes too, and
regrets that no one is being left to carry on the work
he has so carefully inaugurated. He has had to over-
come many difficulties, and is disappointed that the
labour of so many years will be thrown away. The big
plants grow all right and do not require much atten-
tion. The young ones must be shaded from the fierce
sun, and unless this shade is provided artificially the
only seeds that flourish are those which fall beside the
parent plant and derive shade and a certain amount
of moisture from it. The summit of the island, being
often clouded in mist, is very damp, and those who
live there for any length of time suffer considerably
from rheumatism.
I descended towards " Wideawake " Plain again,
visited the circular crater of a Kolcano, and crossed it
to enter a belt of loose, broken pieces of cellular
lava. The inside was covered with sand, was bare of
3o8 Shackleton's Last Voyage
vegetation, and had round it a circular track which
gives it the name of the " Devil's Horse-ring."
On my way back I passed again oyer a sandy
plain, where I saw a number of small rabbits. I
enjoyed my day immensely and was pleasantly
fatigued after my climbing. I suffered badly from
sunburn, which will probably get worse in the next few
days. My neck and legs are chiefly affected. Marr,
who had spent the day with Douglas on a geological
expedition, was also badly burned, and had a tempera-
ture of 103^ F. I had to put him to bed. . . .
The coaling was completed during the afternoon.
We had many visitors to see us off, and left finally
at 4.30 P.M., setting course for St. Vincent.
The next part of our journey proved uneventful.
We crossed the equator to run into hotter weather, the
sun being near its northern limit of declination. With
a light following wind there was no draught, and the
ship was covered daily with dust and ashes from the very
dirty Ascension Island coal. So bad did it turn out that
Kerr and his staff had the greatest difficulty in maintain-
ing a sufficient pressure of steam, and the work of the
stokers was consequently very hard. Young, Ross and
Murray (a new hand taken on at Cape Town) stuck
splendidly to their work during this uncomfortable and
trying stage of the journey.
We obtained at Ascension Island a number of live
baby turtles, which I proposed to present to the Marine
Biological Laboratory at Plymouth. On its staff are
two old shipmates of mine, Messrs. Hodson, of the
Discovery, and Clark, of the Endurance, We placed
the turtles in one of the waterbutts on the after deck,
thoto : IViikhis
A MEW IN SAN MIGUEL IN THE AZORES
St. Helena to St. Vincent 309
where Wilkins fed them on small pieces of flying fish.
They spent the whole day diving for pieces and fought
with each other for possession of them. They are
curious little creatures.
One of the men brought off a small rabbit, of which
a few run wild on Ascension Island. It became a great
pet and was most extraordinarily tame.
We arrived at St. Vincent on August i8th, where we
completed our coaling. Here, as on our outward trip,
we received kindness from the members of Messrs.
Wilson, Sons and Company, Limited, and were enter-
tained by the Eastern Telegraph Company mess.
Douglas and Wilkins carried on their investigations.
Macklin, Jeffrey and Green, our fishing enthusiasts,
went off to bring in a supply of fish, but returned with
a small result, their time having been spent apparently
in sailing the surf -boat out to Bird Rock and in bathing.
CHAPTER XVI
HOME
WE left on Sunday (20th), intending to call at
Madeira, but the north-east trades proving too
much for the Quest I adopted the sailing ship route and
proceeded '' full and by " in the direction of the Azores.
Conditions were now more pleasant than we had had
them since setting out from England at the commence-
ment of our enterprise. The weather became daily
cooler and the air fresher. The winds blew the dust and
ashes away to leeward, and we were able to have a
clean ship.
It was quite like the old days, the young, happy days
of those fine old clipper ships of Messrs. Devitt and
Moore :
Beating- up for the western isles
Close hauled in the north-east trades.
Early in the morning of September 3rd we picked up
the Azores, and about 5 p.m. entered the harbour of
Ponta del Gada, in San Miguel. I was anxious to give
the hull a coating of paint, but as it was Sunday, and a
feast day, there was no hope of any work being done.
We stayed two days, the only incident of interest
being a visit to the United States ship Wilmington^
which had put in here with a broken crank shaft on her
way home from Shanghai. The captain and some of his
officers, in turn, visited us.
310
Home
311
Tbe Course of the Quests Outwards and Inwards
Our work done, we set out, and on a perfect evening
proceeded along the coast of the island, which is very
picturesque. The land is terraced, and there is evidently
a considerable amount of intensive cultivation. Pretty
little villages nestle in its hollows, and windmills are
dotted all about the hills. The Quest proceeded
smoothly. The sea was calm, and in the still air of this
lovely summer evening one felt that nothing could be
more perfect and that one could go on and on for ever.
We had had so much bad weather and our trip through-
312 Shackleton's Last Voyage
out had been so arduous that we felt this respite all the
more.
I had hoped on leaving the Azores to run imme-
diately into westerly winds, but for some days we had
light north-easters. The wind finally came round to
north-west and blew up strongly on our beam. The
ocean gathered itself up for one more fling at us, but it
was but a half-hearted one; we were homeward bound,
and what did we care? In a few days we should be in
England, and though I have experienced many goings
and comings since those unforgettable first ones, the
parting never seems to lose its hurt nor the home-coming
its thrill.
God gave all men all earth to love,
But since our hearts are small,
Ordained for each one spot should prove
Beloved over all ; . . . — Kipling.
On September i6th we entered Plymouth Sound
and anchored in Cawsand Bay. As was fitting, the first
man to join the ship was Mr. Rowett, who gave us the
warmest of welcomes home. He was very interested in
all I had to tell him, but was deeply touched when I
spoke of our old " Boss " whom we had left " down
there."
So we returned, quietly, as was befitting. My task
when the leadership fell on my shoulders was to " carry
on." This, with the aid of the men who gave me
their unquestioning obedience and showed unswerving
loyalty, I was able to do. It gave me great pleasure
when Mr. Rowett, whose support and co-operation alone
made the expedition possible, said, " Old man, youVe
done splendidly ! "
We had made observations and brought back a mass
Home 313
of data gathered through long days of hardship and
bitter toil, and I hope, when all is sorted and fully
worked up, that our efforts may prove of value in
helping to solve the great natural problems that still
perplex us.
I have taken part in five expeditions to the Antarctic,
and though I think that my work there is done, I shall
never cease to feel glad that it has fallen to my lot to
pioneer and guide the groping fingers of Knowledge on
the white edges of the world.
APPENDIX 1
GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS, by G. Vibert Douglas,
M.C., M.Sc, Geologist to the Expedition.
As planned by the late Sir Ernest H. Shackleton the voyage of
the Quest to Southern Regions was intended to explore the coast
from Enderby Land westwards to Coats Land, a length of
approximately 2,500 miles. On the routes to and from this main
objective it was his intention to call at many seldom-visited islands
in the Atlantic, Southern, Indian and Pacific Oceans.
A part of the second objective was attained, and the
reader who desires to learn of the detailed geological results
of the expedition is asked to consult the full scientific report
which is now being prepared, and which, by the courtesy of the
authorities of the British Museum of Natural History, is to be
published as one of their Memoirs. It is the purpose of the writer
in these notes to give an outline of the general geology of the
islands which were visited. The names given to the rocks are
only field terms, as no microscopic examination has been made
up to the present.
Methods Employed
It was found to be seldom possible to do accurate and close
geological mapping, owing to the limited time that was available
for work ashore. Maps of the areas had to be made, as those
of the Admiralty are of too small a scale to do more than provide
a skeleton upon which the larger scale sketches can be based.
The sketches were generally the result of a rapid reconnaissance
with plane table or compass and pace, or in some cases simply
a freehand sketch from the summit of a ridge.
Wherever possible hand specimens were collected and the
general geological associations noted.
The order in which the following islands are described is
not that in which they were visited, but they are grouped as
follows :
{South Georgia (68)
zlTodovskr^'si Sand-
wich Gp. (o)
314
Appendix
315
Islands of the South Atlantic
Ocean
Islands of the Mid-Atlantic
Gough Island (5)
Tristan da Cunha (2^)
Nightingale (i)
Middle (i)
Stoltenhoff (o)
Inaccessible (1)
St. Paul's Rocks (1/2)
Sao Miguel A9ores, St. Vin-
cent (Cape Verdes) (3)
Ascension (3)
St. Helena (i)
(The numbers in brackets refer to the days spent ashore.)
ISLANDS OF THE SOUTHERN OCEAN
South Georgia. — Lat. 54° S. Long. 37° W.
Topography
This island is about 116 miles long by 20 miles wide, with the
longer axis lying in a general N.W. and S.E. direction. It has
the appearance of an upland dissected by cirque recession and
\ -^...-.-^.-^-^-^^^-^
enlargement. The highest peak, Mount Paget, which is an
isolated remnant of the upland, is about 8,000 feet high.
The average peaks in the comb ridges are about 2,000 feet,
and the average level of the interior would be placed by the writer
as about 600 feet above sea level. The glacial valleys run in
3i6 Appendix
general across the longer axis and are separated from each other
by comb ridges. The majority of the glaciers show signs of
withdrawal. At the N.W. end of the island many of the valleys
are free of ice altogether.
One interesting investigation was carried out at Royal Bay,
where the Ross Glacier comes down to the sea. The position of
the foot of the glacier relative to the shore was first measured
by the Gauss Expedition of 1882, then again by Nordenskjold in
1902, and then by the members of the Quest in 1922.
These measurements show this interesting fact — that there was
an advance of the foot of over 4,000 feet during the period 1882
to 1902, and that now it is back in the position of 1882. It is
suggested that this does not indicate any general advance or
withdrawal, but rather that the glacier, which is operating, to use
an hydraulic term, under a high head is being forced out to sea
where the foot is afloat. It will continue to advance until the
effect of the rollers on the floating mass of ice overcomes the
tensile strength of the ice and it breaks away. If we assume that
twenty (20) years represent this period (it may be a multiple of
a smaller period), then this gives an advance per year of about
two hundred and twenty (220) feet.
Geology
From Cooper Bay to Bird Island the rocks seen by the writer
were of sedimentary origin. They are of the nature of grits,
tuffs and phyllites. To the east of Cooper Bay the rocks are
igneous. The basement is of a basic nature, with flows, at
least two in number, over it. Back from Cooper Bay, and just
east of the contact with the sediments, there is a small stock
of a more acid rock, which has been called a syenite.
A provisional table is here drawn up to show the relative age
relations, with the more recent at the top :
AT LARSEN HARBOUR
Soilit'^^ ^ I I^oleritic dykes cutting
Gabbro J t''*^'-
NORTH-WEST OF DRYGALSKI FJORD
Tectonic Movements
The sedimentary rocks have been subject to considerable
folding and faulting. From the direction of the folds and the
general trend of the line of schistosity it would appear that the
pressure had come from the S.S.W. or N.N.E,
BOOBY WITH CHICK ON ST. PAUL'S ROCKS
>^
^^*m>^
^m
Photos: Wilkins
A BOOBY CHICK ON ST. PAULS ROCKS
TYPES OF FISH CALGHl IN IHL LACiOON AT ST. PALLS ROCKS
Photos: Wilkius
WHITE-CAPPED NODDIES AT ST PAUL'S ROCKS
Appendix
317
Age
A few fossils of a very indefinite character were obtained,
and are now being worked out/ Provisionally it may be said
that one, a fossil plant probably of the Araucaria type, points
to an age not older than lower carboniferous.
Elephant Island. — Lat. 61° 5. Long. 55O W.
This is one of the easterly islands in the Powell group of the
South Shetlands, and was only landed on at two points. Lookout
Harbour and Minstrel Bay.
Topography
The features of Elephant Island probably are similar to what
those of South Georgia were before the intense glacial erosion
sculptured the island as already described.
SEAL fflLs q
MtNSTREL
C.LINDSAY
CORNWAU/S I.
CLLOYOS
UCARLOAFl
t^ 9^,^ (^$^ NARROW I.
POWELL GROUP
SOUTH SHETLANDS
1
w
It is a plateau 300 feet at the rim, but rising gently towards
the interior. It appeared to be covered by an ice sheet, and the
same may be said of Clarence Island, which lies a few miles to
the eastward; only in the latter case there was a definite cliff of
ice visible above the rock face.
The glaciers were more of the hanging than of the valley type.
Especially was this so on the west coast.
1 W. T, Gordon, D.Sc, King's College, London.
3i8 Appendix
Geology
The rock specimens collected and the little mapping which
was done indicate that the island is composed mostly of sedi-
mentary rocks which have been much metamorphosed. Phyllites
predominated, but various schists, slates and banded limestones
were also seen.
Zavodovski. — Lat. 56° S. Long. 27° W.
This island, the most northerly in the South Sandwich group,
was not landed on by the members of the Quest, and the follow-
ing observations from the ship must be considered only probable
and in no way certain.
The island is of volcanic origin, rising as a cone from the
sea. The upper levels were not seen by us, but the height of the
summit is given by Bellingshausen as 1,200 feet. The cliff rises
vertically from the sea about 40 feet, and then there is a long,
gentle slope gradually getting steeper.
The lava flows seen on the cliff face appeared to consist of a
compact columnar basalt at the base. Above there was a line of
red cinder, and above this again what looked to be rough pahoehoe
lava. A number of clefts and vents were seen on the face of the
cliff, and from these there issued bluish fumes.
Soundings with the Kelvin were taken every half-mile or so,
and the material collected corresponds with the basalts and cinder
mentioned.
It was unfortunate that we were unable to visit the other
islands in this group, for with the exception of the scanty reports
of Bellingshausen, C. A. Larsen and a German expedition, the
geology and natural history are practically unknown, and the
existing charts are not by any means complete.
PETROLOGICAL REPORT, by W. Campbell Smith, M.C,
M.A., British Museum of Natural History.
Rock fragments washed from material dredged at 19 fathoms
off Zavodovski, South Sandwich group, 20/1/22.
The sample consisted of a few grammes of rounded black
pellets varying in diameter from i to 5 mm. They consisted of
the following :
Ten dense black glassy basalts. All appear free of olivine.
Some are crowded with minute laths of plagioclase ; others
contain fewer minute laths but show a few small phenocrysts
of plagioclase, or of augite, or both.
Four dense dark-brown glassy olivine-basalts, some con-
taining many crystals of plagioclase, and a few crystals of
olivine and augite. The glass is crowded densely with
magnetite and sometimes with other undetermined microliths.
Appendix 319
Four rather paler basalts with holocrystalline-porphyritic
texture. These contain very small phenocrysts of plagioclase
and sometimes of augite, in a ground mass of very minute
laths of felspar and grains of augite and magnetite. The
texture of the ground mass is intergranular. One of the
specimens contained no augite phenocrysts, but rather
numerous microphenocrysts of magnetite.
Tvi^o small fragments of pale basalt-glass, deep olive-buff
in colour. Microliths are absent in one specimen, but they
are abundant in the other and consist of small laths of plagio-
clase, and minute prisms of augite and a few crystals of what
is probably olivine. The felspar laths gave extinction angles
of 15°, but only a very few measurements could be made.
This material resembles the pale patches of glass in the
palagonite tuffs of Sicily and of Kerguelen Land,^ and a
somewhat similar though darker coloured rock has been de-
scribed from Schwartzenfels Hesse as vitrophyric basalt, and
has been elegantly figured by Berwerth.'
ISLANDS OF THE SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN
GouGH Island. — Lat. 40° 5. Long, 10° W.
Cough Island lies roughly 200 miles south of the Tristan da
Cunha group. It is 8 miles long by 3 miles wide.
Topography
The island forms a monoclinal block with dip slopes to the
west and escarpments to the east. The highest point on the
long ridge which runs down the longer axis of the island is
about 2,915 feet above sea level.
The west side of the ridge goes down in a long slope to the
cliffs bordering the sea.
The escarpments on the east side are cut by three or four
glens. The largest one, about half-way down the coast, gives
access to the interior.
The most striking feature, looking up the glen, is the great
stock of an acid intrusive rock, which rises to 2,270 feet. It
can best be described in the words of Scott :
"Shooting abruptly from the dell
Its thunder splintered pinnacle."
Geology
The island is the result of a series of fissure flows of a basaltic
and trachytic nature. These flows have been intruded by the
1 Renard (A). Voyage of H.M.S. Challenger, Phys. and Chem., Vol. ii, i88g, p. 120
« Berwerth (F). Mikroskopische Structurbilder der Massengesteine, Lief II, No 16
(1897).
320
Appendix
stock just mentioned above, and many fissures were opened by
it. These have subsequently been filled by dykes. The rock
forming the dykes is very hard, with the result that they are now
a very prominent feature, and stand up in some cases about
50 feet above the surrounding country. This is due, of course,
to differential weathering.
It is probable that the east coast represents a fault plane,
but as the erosion has been great, direct evidence is wanting.
Apart from this fault no faulting nor folding was observed.
Tristan da Cunha. — Lat. 37O S. Long. 12^ W.
Topography
Tristan is an island octagonal in plan, about 8 miles across.
It rises as a prism for about 2,000 feet, and then tapers off as a
cone to about 6,400 feet above sea level. The crater is now filled
with water, and at that level is about 200 feet across. The rain-
fall on the upper slopes is very great, and they are deeply
eroded. At the foot of the cliff, on the northern shore, there is a
gently sloping lava plain, upon which the settlement is situated.
Hardy Rock^
Swam Bay
West Pb.
Cotton Bay
TMSTAN DA CUNHA
■2CA MlLtS
In extent it is about 3^ miles long by half a mile wide. About
midway between the extremities there are a few small craters
rising above the plain. The plain is grass clothed, and the upper
slopes are covered in moss, bracken and scrub trees. This
GENTOO PENGUIN WITH TWO CHICKS
f/iotoi : Wilkins.
NESTING GROUND OF THE MOLLYMAUK
Appendix 321
vegetation continues up to about 4,000 feet, above which point
the rocks are bare.
Geology
The island consists of a great series of lava flows which have
poured from the volcano, and are of the nature of scoriae, cinder,
trachyte and basalt in succeeding and alternating layers. As is
so common on these volcanic islands, the lower lava is generally
a hard, compact basalt showing rough columnar structure.
Only one section was observed, which is placed below, but
there is good reason to believe that to the west, in the neigh-
bourhood of Swain Bay, more complex conditions exist, as many
samples of bombs of a rock carrying large crystals of felspar
and hornblende and other coarse grained rocks were given to
the writer by some of the islanders, who stated that they came
from this locality.
Preliminary note by W. Campbell Smith, M.C, M.A.,
on the samples given by islanders at Tristan da Cunha and
reported to have come from the neighbourhood of Swain Bay.
The specimens can be grouped in four types :
(1) Rocks with felspar almost nil. Probably consist mainly
hornblende and pyroxene, with perhaps some olivine,
apatite and magnetite.
(2) Rocks with a little felspar and characterized by large
poikilitic plates of hornblende. These contain abundant
pyroxene, and some olivine, apatite and magnetite.
(3) Rocks with long, thin blades of hornblende in a fine-
grained matrix of labradorite, and with some patches of
black "glass" and abundant minute prisms of apatite.
In hand specimens these look like dyke-rocks, but I
think the texture and the patches of magnetite show that
they are segregations.
(4) Coarse-grained rocks with perhaps more felspar than horn-
blende. Hornblende in large crystals in a matrix of
labradorite. The texture is coarser than in the preceding
type. Felspars reach 2 or 3 mm. in diameter. The
hornblende includes some small ctystals of yellow
pyroxene. Apatite and magnetite are given abundant.
All four types appear to be closely inter-related. They con-
tain the same minerals in varying proportions and probably grade
one into the other.
The obsidian and the pieces of red glass are basalt glass, and
are probably similar to the specimen described by Renard in the
Report on the Challenger Collection, p. 82. He states that the
inhabitants use the rock for striking fire.
V
322
Appendix
OBSERVED SECTION FROM THE PEAK TO HERALD POINT
Elevations.
FEET
6,400
6,2cx)-5,7oo
5,700-5,500
5,000-4,550
4,400
4.300
4,250
4,150
3,950
3,750
3,600
3,520
3,420
3,220
1,200
225
223
222
220
216
To sea
level.
Rock provisionally named.
Scoriae and vesicular basalt.
Loose scoriae and bombs.
Basalt.
Trachy-basalt.
Vesicular basalt.
Trachytic agglomerate.
Compact basalt.
Red scoriae.
Basalt.
Scoriae.
Scoriae and basalt.
Basalt and scoriae.
Scoriae and basalt.
Grey basalt.
(Break in the observations).
Basalt and scoriae.
(Break in the observations).
Basalt.
Cinder.
Scoriae.
Tuff.
Agglomerate.
Compact basalt.
Remarks.
Forming summit.
Crater cone.
A contact.
A contact.
A contact.
A contact.
fThis rock is used for
building the dwell-
ings by the inhabi-
tants.
Rough columnar
structure.
A number of vapour vents were observed at different points.
It is apparent that the small craters mentioned above as exist-
ing on the settlement plain sprang up after the main period of
eruption when the island was built.
To the west and about 22 miles from Tristan there are the four
islands — Nightingale, Middle, Stoltenhoff and Inaccessible.
Topography Nightingale
This island, which is the most southerly of the group, is
rectangular in plan, one mile by three-quarters. High cliffs bound
the south, east and west sides. The northern slopes descend
gradually to the sea, where they terminate in cliffs about 30 feet
high.
The highest point is on the east side of the island, and is about
1, 000 teet above sea level. It is connected by a low featured col
Appendix
323
to the high land to the south-west. To the west, that is, towards
the interior of the island, there is a depressed area which now has
a small pond in it. It is probable that this was once the crater
from which the lavas issued.
iTOLTCNworr I
mioolc z
NI6HTINSALE I&
)* // ^ fSJLAUiUL,
Geology
One day only was available for work on this island, and orders
were that the supposed guano deposits which were reported at the
north side were to be examined. These deposits are of no
economic value, and an analysis is here appended.
Certificate of Analysis.
Ogston and Moore,
Analytical Chemists,
8g Aldgate, London.
July 28, 1922.
Guano from Nightingale Island.
Moisture 72.12
Organic matter and ammonia salts 24.70
Phosphoric acid nil
Lime nil
Magnesia, alkalies, etc 1.60
Silicious matter i-5^
100.00
324 Appendix
Guano jrom Cave on Middle Island.
Moisture
17.00
Organic matter and ammonia salts
15-15
Phosphoric acid
3.85
Lime
5- 10
Magnesia, alkalies, etc
10.20
Silicious matter
48.70
100.00
The rocks, however, appeared to be in general of a trachytic
nature.
Topography Middle Island
Middle Island lies less than half a mile to the north of Nightin-
gale. It is in plan about a quarter of a mile square, and rises
to a height of about 200 feet. It is flat-topped, with minor
depressions.
Geology
There have been questions asked as to the origin of Middle
Island, and to the writer, who had this in mind when visiting the
island, the following were the reasons for its existence.
The trachytic flows from Nightingale probably extended at
one time about a mile farther to the north than the present
northern shore of Nightingale. This is evidenced by the trachytic
agglomerate and trachyte seen on Middle. Following this there
was an effusion of a hard, compact lava from a neck which exists
on the latter island. The border of the neck is marked by a
breccia. The dykes emanating from this lava are not seen on
Nightingale, but some of the rocks which infest the channel
between the islands are probably their eroded remains. The
action of the sea on the mass of altered trachyte between Middle
and Nightingale Islands has in the course of time cut a channel
^^^^ ' Stoltenhoff
It is not possible to land on this island, as it rises sheer from
the sea to about 200 feet. It is flat-topped, and in area about
500 yards by 150 yards. The rock of which it is composed
appears to be of a trachytic nature, and may be the northern
limit of the flows from Nightingale, which have already been
mentioned ; it may, however, be a centre of activity, such as is
described as existing on Middle Island.
Topography Inaccessible Island
Eleven miles to the N.N.W. from Stoltenhoff is this island,
which is the most northerly one of the group. In plan it is pear-
shaped, being about 3 miles by 2^
Appendix
325
In its general features it is a basin, being a great caldera, the
south-east side of which has been blown out. A cone rises to
about 1,500 feet towards the north-east of the depressed central
area. The interior is broken country clothed in verdure, and
on account of the high rim, which affords protection from the
winds, would be suitable for human habitation. A stream winds
through the interior, finally falling in a beautiful cascade to the
North Pt,
West PL
Pyramid ;{•<<> South Hill
INACCESSIBLE ISLAND
* ^ f* \ u1 i
beach at the north-east shore, where a landing is easily made if
the wind is not from the north.
Geology
The central cone is a mass of scoriae, and the section from here
to the sea near the waterfall shows that there have been succes-
sive flows of basalt and trachyte. The high cliffs to the west of
the landing are cut by a series of parallel dykes, which are an
outstanding feature.
ISLANDS OF THE MID-ATLANTIC OCEAN
The St. Paul's Rocks
These lie just north of the equator, almost midway between
Africa and Brazil. These rocks are almost unique in occurrence,
for, as Charles Darwin remarks in his journal, "Its mineralogical
constitution is not simple. ... It is a remarkable fact that all
the many small islands, lying far from any continent, with the
exception of the Seychelles and this little point of rock, are com-
posed either of coral or erupted matter."
326
Appendix
The St. Paul's Rocks are a group of eight or nine small rocky
islands, the largest of which is only about 350 feet long by 150
feet wide. This island and the most northerly were the only ones
where a landing was effected.
The whole of the southerly portion of the main island is com-
posed of a highly weathered rock which has thin veinlets of
serpentine cutting through it. Running in a north and south
direction, and in places dragged and folded and cutting this
O
o
SKE.TCH MAP .r-^
S^ PAULS ROCKS.
Stale :- | Inch - too fi»«c.
0«nu<i Ju»4t9ftBn<UUcMr««y.
Bl 3 46 ref«r to samples taken
formation, there is a dyke, which stands up prominently from the
main country rock. About 30 yards to the east the rock is cut by
a series of irregular interlacing narrow dykes having the appear-
ance of old concrete. The ground mass is hard and to the eye
amorphous. It contains rounded pebbles and possibly shell
remains.
Towards the centre of the main island the rock formation
changes abruptly to a compact glassy green rock, probably a
peridotite. It has developed a jointing, and but for the con-
glomerate forms the remainder of the island and possibly the other
islands as well, because the country rock on the north island is of
a similar nature.
Appendix 327
Along the inside of the central basin at two points there
occurs a conglomerate — pebbles ranging from 3 inches in diameter
to a fraction of an inch cemented in a matrix.
Towards the north end there is a fault which crosses the
island in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and parallel to which there is
a dark, rusty dyke.
In two or three places on the main island, one of which is
near this fault, there are small pot holes. There was a rounded
boulder in each, and probably, as the sea comes swirling in at
high tide, a rotary motion is given to the boulder and the pot hole
develops.
The general formation of the islands might be described as
a stock of glassy peridotite which has risen from the bed of the
ocean and of which only the highest points are now visible.
SaS Miguel Azores, St. Vincent (Cape Verde), Ascension and
St. Helena
The above islands were called at and examined, but as the
geology has already been described by others who had more time
at their disposal, no new light was thrown on them. The visits,
however, were valuable in that they will enable the wTiter to
compare the conditions existing at these places with the seldom
visited islands already above described.
DEEP-SEA SOUNDINGS
In collaboration with the hydrographer, material from the
sea floor was obtained by soundings in various localities. This
material is being examined microscopically, and its physical
properties are being determined (specific gravity, gradation of
sizes, radioactivity, etc.).
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
The general reader is reminded that the geological observa-
tions recorded here are in no way complete. Much detailed work
is necessary on these various islands before the full record can
be written. Nature has laid open the story of her history to
the careful investigator, but from the casual one she withholds
the deeper meaning.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The writer wishes in conclusion to thank the following for
their hearty co-operation, which made the above results possible :
Capt. G. H. Wilkins, M.C., F.R.G.S.
Major C. R. Carr, D.F.C.
Messrs. Dell, Argles and Marr.
328 Appendix
The work at South Georgia would have been impossible but
for the kind assistance of the managers of the whaling com-
panies : j^^ j)g pgg^^ Company, of Buenos Aires
The Southern Whaling Company (Lever Bros.)
The Tonsberg Company, of Norway
The Westfahl Company, of Norway
The Salvesen Company, of Leith, Scotland
The excellent surveying instruments which were so kindly
lent by Messrs. Troughton and Simms proved invaluable under all
conditions.
Thanks are specially due to Mr. John Quiller Rowett, LL.D.,
without whose generous support the expedition would have been
impossible.
APPENDIX II
NATURAL HISTORY
Soon after leaving England numbers of landbirds were seen about
the ship. In position lat. 43° 52' S. and 11° 51' W. long, we saw
a heron passing overhead, steering in a S.S.E. direction towards
the northern coast of Africa. After leaving Lisbon on the way to
Madeira, numbers of robins, wrens, doves, larks and sparrows
flew aboard in an exhausted condition. They were captured,
measured and their colourings noted, afterwards given food and
water, and allowed to go free. One dove that came near the ship
was so exhausted that it fell several times into the sea, which was
very choppy. We expected it to drown, but on each occasion it
rose from the break of the wave and finally settled on the topsail
yard, where it rested and dried itself, and finally set off with
renewed vigour in the direction of land. Mother Carey's Chickens
joined us soon after our start, and we were rarely without them
throughout the voyage.
At St. Vincent we collected specimens of vultures, mostly black
or dark brown, but some were white with black markings. A few
crows, larks and other small binds were seen. A white owl was
presented to the naturalist by one of the residents. The species
is not common to the island, but is reported to have been seen
after high winds blowing from the mainland.
In latitude 60° 26' N. we were surrounded by a particularly
large school of porpoises, and secured one by harpooning it from
the bowsprit. It was a male, 7 feet 7 inches in length, and the
stomach contained the remains of 5 squids and 114 octopus beaks.
We visited St. Paul's Rocks on November 8th, when two species
Appendix 329
of birds were found to be nesting : the Noddy Tern and the Booby.
The Noddy Tern {Anous stolidus) is shy, and few except those
with young remained on the island. We collected some of their
eggs, many of them addled. The young were almost fully fledged,
but each was attended by the parent bird, which stayed to defend
it. These birds varied largely in colourings, chiefly in the degrees
of white and lavender grey of the forehead and back of the neck,
the lighter phase being the more common. Nests were built
roughly to a height of from 12 to 15 cm., and composed largely
of seaweed and guano. Built-up nests predominated, but several
eggs and young were found in depressions in the broken rocks.
The Brown Gannet, or Booby (Sula leucogastra)^ is so called
from its stupid expression. The nests consisted of rocks, a few
feathers and guano, or merely depressions in the rock. We
collected some eggs and several young ones in all stages, from
one which was newly hatched, without down or feathers and eyes
closed, to those which were almost fully fledged. The nests are
so set in the irregular and sloping surfaces that the birds con-
tinually foul each other, the young especially becoming very filthy
in this way. They live largely, if not entirely, on flying fish, and
gorge themselves so heavily with them that when taking flight
on our going amongst them each bird disgorged one, two or three
fish in different stages of digestion.
Crabs abound on the rocks. They are very active and nimble,
and at the approach of man scramble into crevices. They are able
to jump, and on several occasions were seen to gather their legs
under them and leap squarely forward a distance of two or three
feet. Some grow to large size and develop powerful claws, but
apparently they make no attempt to seize the birds, the chicks or
the eggs. When the adult bird disgorged on rising, the crabs
hastened to seize the flying fish, and, tearing them to pieces,
crammed them voraciously into their jaws. There is a lagoon in
the middle of the rocks, the floor of which is covered with marine
plants of many varieties, whilst fish swim to and fro in great
numbers. Sharks, varying in length from four to eight feet,
swarmed in it, and we harpooned several. The stomachs of most
of them were empty, and the others contained only a few squids.
A full description of the fish of St. Paul's Rocks will be found
elsewhere. Numerous specimens of all species were taken from
the rocks and preserved for sending to the museums.
We left Rio de Janeiro on January i8th for South Georgia.
During this part of the journey we were followed by stormy
petrels, Wilson petrels, wandering albatross, mollymauks, Cape
pigeons, Cape hens, sooty albatross, and saw several terns. As
we neared the island we observed penguins, skua gulls and giant
petrels, and, as we passed along the coast, prions, diving petrels
and dominican gulls.
330 Appendix
The whaling stations of South Georgia are visited by many
varieties of seabirds, which congregate there in hundreds of
thousands for the offal which finds its way into the sea. By act-
ing as scavengers they serve a very useful purpose. Cape pigeons
thickly cover the water for hundreds of square yards and present a
really extraordinary sight. They chatter and squabble incessantly.
Terns flit gracefully about, never settling on the water, but making
occasional short dives for morsels. Wilson petrels flit like fairies
over the surface, their feet touching, but their bodies never enter-
ing the sea. Dominican gulls, skua gulls, mollymauks and giant
petrels also come about in hundreds, for there is food in abundance
in the harbours.
There are about twenty-four species of birds in South Georgia,
including a wagtail (Anthus antarcticus), which is found on the
lower slopes of the island about the beaches. The Wandering
Albatross {Diomedea exulans) is the most stately and graceful
of all flying birds, yet when seen ashore or at close range
has a curiously foolish expression. It nests on the grassy
promontories of the main island and on some of the smaller
outlying islets. The nests are pyramidal mounds composed of
tussock grass, mud and a few feathers. The hen lays one egg,
which the parent birds take turns in incubating. The chicks are
pretty white fluffy things, which later take on a brown adult
plumage. As the bird increases in size so the brown colouring
gives way to a white phase, the very old ones being almost entirely
white. The nesting season commences about the middle of January.
Wilkins observed that inter-mating took place between birds of
neighbouring nests, a male bird wandering off to visit an already
mated female. This usually took place when the husband bird was
out at sea in search of food, but occasionally it was observed that
the apparently true mate would appear on the scene, and, discover-
ing the intruder, would show fight, and a battle would ensue.
This, however, was never a serious matter, and was mainly an
exhibition of side-stepping, feints and vicious snaps of the beaks,
but the combatants rarely came to real pecking or blows. The
female looked on and kept up a chattering noise with the bill whilst
the fight lasted. Only once was a female seen to leave nest and
egg unprotected. In a moment a skua had swept down and thrust
his beak into the egg. The albatross does not nest on the north-
east coast of South Georgia farther south than Possession Bay.
The Sooty Albatross {Phoehetria palpehrata) rivals, or even
excels the " Wanderer" in gracefulness of flight. It is not very
common in South Georgia, those found being at isolated points
on the north-western coast.
The Blackbrowed xMbatross, or Mollymauk, is found in two
varieties {Thalassogeron melanophrys and T. chrysostoma). They
are found breeding at the north-western end and on the neighbour-
Appendix 33i
ing islets. Numbers of the former are common ; of the latter, rare.
Wilkins discovered a nest and egg, and succeeded in obtaining
specimens — the first to be collected. He also cinematographed
the bird on its nest. The newly hatched chick is covered with
light grey down, slightly darker on the wings, and increasing in
depth of colour with age. The bill is a dark horn colour, the iris
light brown, and the feet light grey.
The Giant Petrel — Nellie, or Stinker — (Ossijraga gigantea) is
found nesting on all the grassy bluffs, but most commonly on the
islets of the Bay of Isles, amongst the "Wanderers." They are
exceedingly ugly and ungainly, have an unpleasant smell, and
their feathers are infested with ticks.
Cape Hens [Majaqueus aequinoctialis) are seldom seen near
land except in the evening, when they sit at the doors of their
burrows chattering away in neighbourly fashion.
Wilson Petrels flock in great numbers about the whaling
stations. They nest in burrows.
The Diving Petrel {Pelecanoides urinatrix) frequents the west
coast of South Georgia in greatest numbers, but an occasional
one may be found at any place near the shore.*
Whale Birds (Prion) are very common on most of the small
islands and on some places on the main island. They live in
burrows. They are rarely seen by day, as they can only leave
and return to the burrows under cover of darkness, for they are
preyed upon relentlessly by the skua gulls. They flock out tO' sea
in clouds just after nightfall and return in the early morning.
Those which fail to get in by daybreak almost certainly fall
victims to the rapacious skuas, which are responsible for the death
of thousands of them yearly. They lay a single egg.
Cape Pigeons {Daption capensis) are the brightest and cheeriest
of all seabirds. They frequent the whaling stations in hundreds
of thousands. Their chattering and chaffering as they squabble
over choice pieces of offal goes on unceasingly all day and all
night. They nest in clefts high up in the cliff faces.
Snow Petrels {Pagodroma nivea) have been seen in the vicinity
of the island, but are rare.'
Silver-Grey Petrels (Priocella glacialoides) were seen during
our second visit to the island, but are also rare in this locality.
There are two varieties of skua gull : Megalestris McCormicki
and M. antarctica. They are pirates and live by acts of piracy.
All the seabirds have in one way or another to protect themselves
from their depredations. The smaller birds live in narrow clefts
or in burrows. The larger birds, which nest in the open, have to
keep a continuous watch over nest and chick. The skua Is brown
in
^ Mr. Clark, the biologist of the Endurance, found them nesting in burrows
the middle of Moraine Plain, Cumberland Bay.
* Mr. Clark found them in numbers at Larsen Harbour in November, 1914.
332 Appendix
coloured and has a strong, curved, hawk-like beak. Its habits
and mode of life present a fascinating- study, but space prevents a
full description. Skuas make their nests on grassy slopes about the
island, and resent any approach by strangers. Often when pro-
ceeding over the bluffs one is annoyed by these birds, which have a
disconcerting habit of circling in the air, to descend with a swoop
and a loud rush of air straight at one's head, clearing it by only a
few inches.
The Dominican Gull {Larus dominicanus) is a fine-looking
black-backed gull which nests in the tussock grass. It is found
in large numbers about the whaling station.
The Tern {Sterna vittata) is a prettily-marked little bird which
nests in the open, and is also found about the stations. It has a
pretty, graceful flight, and hovers continually above the surface
looking for scraps, in search of which it occasionally makes short
dives.
The Blue-Eyed Shag {Phalacrocorax atriceps) is found in large
numbers round the island. It is a most business-like bird, and
goes steadily about its daily work, taking very little notice of
outside interruptions. It is more prettily marked than the
northern shag, having a black back and white belly. The back
of the head is black, and carries a tuft of black feathers. The
white of the belly is continued up over the under part of the neck
and head. The eye is blue coloured. It lays two or three greenish-
white eggs, and the young are covered with a dark-coloured down.
Their food is fish, which they obtain by diving, and of which they
consume an enormous number daily.
Paddies, or Sheathbills {Chionis alba)^ are not common on
this island, though a few were seen about the coast by the
naturalist.
South Georgian Teal {Nettion georgicum) are said to be getting
very rare. A few were noticed and some specimens collected.
Falkland Island Geese — introduced by man — are also rare, and
none were seen by the naturalist.^ The whalers say that a few
are still to be found about Cumberland Bay.
There are three species of penguin : Gentoo (Pygoscelis papua),
King {Aptenodytes patagonica), and Rockhopper {Eudyptes Chryso-
lophus). The Gentoo is a brightly marked bird with black head and
neck, black back and white belly, yellow legs, and a white patch
over each eye that gives it a curiously inane expression. It is the
most shy of the penguins, and easily takes fright if rapidly
approached. By dropping on its breast and using both feet and
flippers it can travel at considerable speed and can dodge cleverly.
It nests in tussock grass. The King is larger than the Gentoo,
and has very bright markings about the neck and upper part of
* Mr. Clark, of the Endurance, saw a few in West Bay, Cumberland Bay,
in November, 1914.
Appendix 333
the breast. It nests in tussock grass, but keeps nearer to the
sea edge then the Gentoo. The Rockhopper is less common than
either of the others. It is smaller than the Gentoo and resembles
it somewhat in appearance except that the feet are of a more
browny yellow, the patch over the eye is lacking, and it has a
tuft of yellow and black feathers. Occasional Ringed and Adelie
penguins were noticed, but they are stragglers and not commonly
seen on the island.
Sea-elephants are common on all the beaches of South Georgia
during the summer months, and are found also throughout the
winter. They lie on the beaches or in wallows amongst the clumps
of tussock grass. The smell from them is unpleasant and unmis-
takable. The bulls, except in the rutting season, usually remain
apart from the cows, which collect, together with their young,
into harems numbering from fifteen to fifty. The flippers,
though short, are wonderfully flexible, and have curious little
rudimentary fingers with which they scratch themselves in
what is, at times, a ludicrously human way. They are fond
of heaping sand upon themselves. When approached they make
a curious windy roaring noise, and they may often be heard
trumpeting from their wallows. Wilkins, in crossing the island,
saw a sea-elephant track which led the whole way over. It was
in soft snow and was unmistakable. Many other tracks went for
a mile or so inland, but turned and came back to the beach from
which they started, and only one was found to cross all the way.
Weddell Seals come ashore in numbers, and also occasional
sea-leopards.
The managers of the whaling stations reported that whales
were plentiful during the height of the season (1921-22), though,
as was to be expected, the numbers fell off with the onset of
winter. The most numerous were humpback and blue whales,
and a few sperm and sei-whales were caught. The return of the
humpback is interesting, for in the early days of the whaling
industry in 1904 and for several years afterwards this species
formed the bulk of the catch (over 90 per cent). The numbers
fell off rapidly, till in 19 12- 13 they formed 38 per cent. ; in
1915-16, 12 per cent. ; and in 1917-18, only 2.5 per cent. It was
generally considered and admitted by many of the whalers that
the decline was due to ruthless hunting, but the explanation seems
to lie in the distribution and drift of food supply. For a
fuller description of South Atlantic whales and whaHng, readers
are referred to Appendix I of "South," by Robert S. Clark,
M.A., B.Sc.
During our second visit to South Georgia Mr. Hansen, the
manager of Leith Harbour Whaling Station, showed us a porpoise
which had leapt ashore. It was coloured bluey black and dirty
white; total length, 531^ inches; tip of nose to blowhole, 6 inches;
334 Appendix
tip of nose to dorsal fin, 17^ inches; tip of nose to flippers,
9 inches. It has been provisionally determined as Phocaena
dioptrica.
Small shore-life in South Georgia comprises flies, found along
the beaches and breeding in the semi-rotting seaweed cast up by
the tide; several forms of spiders, beetles [Hydromedion)^ mites
{Bdella)^ tiny jumping flies, and an earth worm (Acanthrodilus).
Vegetation ashore is very scarce, the only grass which grows
in evident quantity being the tussock grass [Poa flabellata). The
naturalist was able to collect specimens of plants referable to six-
teen species, but many of them were marine algae.
Seventeen reindeer which were brought to the island in the
years 191 1 and 1912 have increased and multiplied to such an
extent that there were about 250 when we were there, and this
notwithstanding the fact that the whalers have periodically killed
numbers for food. Wilkins examined the stomachs of some that
were killed, and found them normal in size, not distended, as
usually happens when the food is of poor quality.
The Quest left South Georgia on January i8th, 1922. A few
miles out from the coast we passed thousands of whale birds {Prion)
feeding on the surface of the water, probably upon crustaceae,
which were so plentiful that the sea was highly coloured. Cape
pigeons, Wilson petrels, sooty albatross and a number of molly-
mauks came about the ship, but wandering albatross were con-
spicuously absent at this stage. On the second day we met snow
petrels {Pagodroma nivea)^ which remained intermittently with us
till our return to South Georgia.
On January 20th we visited Zavodovski Island. The slopes
were covered with Ringed penguins, and the beaches under the
glaciers were occupied by a number of King penguins. Fumes
were issuing from caves on the eastern side of the island, and it
was noticed that the penguins kept clear of them. Many Giant
petrels flew round the ship, and a number were seen resting ashore.
Cape pigeons, Wilson petrels and a blue petrel were noticed in the
vicinity of the island. As we turned farther south prions became
more scarce, but Wilson petrels and Cape pigeons kept up in
numbers. The light-mantled sooty albatross seen in these areas
was conspicuously light-phased, and became markedly so in the
more southern latitudes. Silver-grey petrels {Priocella glacialoides)
were first seen in lat. 57° S. and 15° E. long. They were observed
throughout the voyage till we returned to South Georgia, where
the naturalist obtained some specimens.
In lat. 58° S. we met the Antarctic petrel (Thalassoeca ant-
arctica). They occurred in groups of ten or fifteen, but never in
large numbers, as seen in the Ross Sea. In this latitude also an
occasional Sooty petrel (Oestrelata macroptera) was seen, and a
species of whale bird, classed temporarily by the naturalist as
Appendix 335
Prion desolatus. We saw a Cape hen in lat. 61° S., and a Giant
petrel after we had crossed the circle; the latter is very rare in
the Antarctic proper. One of the latter seen in 67*^ S. had a very
white phase.
In lat. 68° S. Arctic terns were noticed. Some of them were
already (on February 8th) beginningf to change their plumage, the
dark cap in many cases being streaked with grey. Emperor
Penguins (Aptenodytes Forsteri) were seen in numbers south of
lat. 67° S., but, taken on the whole, were not common through-
out the trip. They are the "farthest south" penguins. Numbers
of cheery Httle Adelies were seen in greatest numbers near "Ross's
Appearance of Land." Crab-eater Seals {Lobodon carcinophagus)
were seen in large numbers about the pack edge, especially in
those parts where the ice showed marked diatomaceous bands.
Often as many as a dozen of these seals were seen on a single
small floe heaving up and down on the swell. Killer whales
were present in numbers at the time we were in the pack,
and were frequently seen in the open leads. The Crab-eaters,
on the other hand, seemed to avoid the larger leads of open
water. On February 13th we had occasion to kill a number of
Crab-eaters, when each female was found to be pregnant, the
foetus varying in length from one to three inches. Sea-leopards
were seen, but were rare.
We visited Elephant Island on March 28th, and effected land-
ings at Cape Lookout and on a narrow beach at the western end
of the northern coast. Animal life is scarce, and plants are con-
fined to a lichen, which grows on some of the rocks on the sides
facing north, and a species of moss. The bird life consists of Gentoo,
Ringed and Rockhopper penguins, the latter being very scarce ;
seabirds, including Cape pigeons. Skua gulls, Dominican gulls,
Blue-eyed shags (all of them plentiful), and Molly mauks and Giant
petrels (more rare). The Paddy, or Sheathbill {Chionis alha)^ is
plentiful.
The Ringed penguins made their rookeries on steep rock-faces
clo'se to the sea, and spent many patient hours in climbing up and
down from their positions, hopping carefully from ledge to ledge.
The Gentoos selected easier slopes. Rarely a Gentoo was found in
a Ringed rookery, but Ringed were found fairly frequently among
the Gentoos. The Paddies haunted the rookeries, their food being
obtained largely from the excreta of penguins, from which they
pick small round worms or nematodes, with which the penguins
are infested. The stomach and intestines of the Paddies themselves
are wonderfully free from parasites. They eat readily of any offal
which may be lying about. Those which remained during the
winter were very thin, due to the departure of the majority of
penguins. Numerous seals and sea-elephants were lying on the
beaches. On the rocks are dark-shelled limpets (Patella polaris),
336 Appendix
which never come above low-water mark; no doubt they would
freeze to death in the colder air.
We returned to South Georgia on April 6th, and left for
Tristan da Cunha on May 9th. During the voyage we saw
Wandering Albatross, two Sooty Albatross (P. palpehrata and P.
fusca)y mollymauks, Silver-Grey petrels (Priocella glacialoides)^
Wilson petrels, Giant petrels, Diving petrels, several varieties of
prions. Cape hens, Cape pigeons, Terns, Skua gulls and Shear-
waters. As we neared Tristan da Cunha we lost Phoehetria palpe-
hrata, and the only kind of Sooty Albatross seen was P. fusca.
The islands of the Tristan da Cunha group are so close together
that the animal life is similar to them all. The naturalist found
eggs of the following : The yellow billed moUymauk {ThalassO'
geron chlororynchus), greater Shearwater (Puffinus gravis), Rock-
hopper Penguin {Eudyptes chrysocome) and Catharacta antarctica.
The evidence of the islanders regarding the bird life of the islands
is as follows (birds are recognized by general description and
plates) : Wandering Albatross used to breed on Tristan, but now
only found rarely on Inaccessible Island. Sooty Albatross (P.
fusca) nests in August. Young birds leave the nest in April (the
young of P. palpehrata were hatched on January 15th at South
Georgia).
Yellow-nosed mollymauks (T. chlororynchus) nest in August.
Young birds leave the nest in April (the young of T. chrysostoma
were hatched on January ist in South Georgia).
Oestrelata macroptera moults in May, lays in July.
Oestrelata mollis lays in November.
Pachyptila vittata Keyteli lays in September.
Priofinus cinereus lays in May and June.
Sterna vittata lays in November.
Stercorarius antarcticus lays in August.
Anous stolidus arrives in September, lays in November, but
goes away for the winter.
Eudyptes chrysocome moults and leaves the island in March,
comes again in August, and lays in September.
A thrush {Nesocichla eremita) and a finch {N esospiza acunhae)
are found on Inaccessible Island, but seem to have left Tristan.
Wilson petrels, Cape hens, Cape pigeons and gulls are not
often seen and do not nest on the island. A diving petrel is
frequently seen, but no eggs have been found. With regard to
sea-life, fish abound in plenty in the kelp about the island. The
naturalist had little opportunity for a collection of specimens.
The following is the list given by Mrs. K. M. Barrow, who spent
three years on the island : *
Blue-fish, Snoek (Thyrsites atun), Mackerel (Scomber colias),
Five finger (Chilodactylus fasciatus Lac), Soldier-fish, Craw-fish
* " Three Years on Tristan da Cunha," by K. M. Barrow.
Appendix 337
and Klip-fish. The southern blue whale is occasionally seen, as
are also seals and sea-elephants. Sharks are common, and several
were caught from the ship whilst lying off Nightingale and
Inaccessible Islands.
We arrived at Gough Island on May 27th. At first sight it
appears as a green island clothed in verdure. As we approached
the western side we saw a number of birds, prions, wandering
albatross, moUymauks, a diving petrel, skua gulls and terns.
Both Phoehetria cornicoides and P. fusca were seen. After round-
ing south-west and south points few birds were seen except skua
gulls and terns, and they were not common. No albatross were
seen on the eastern side during the whole of our visit. Just after
passing south-east point Wilkins saw what he thought was a
noddy tern {Anous stolidus), which was previously reported as
visiting the island. Immediately on landing on the Glen beach
buntings {Nesospiza goughensis) came tamely about, but did not
let themselves be caught by hand. Numbers were seen feeding on
flies, which swarmed in the decaying seaweed, and also inland,
where they were seen on the stems of tussock grass or clinging to
the branches of the tea plant [Chenopodium tomentosum). They
were found everywhere up to the level of the thicker vegetation,
which ends at about 2,000 feet. There are two types : one, black-
throated and mouse-coloured ; the other, light and dark brown,
with yellowish markings. They were feeding together, and seen
to be in about equal numbers and of equal size.
On every part of the island visited the sharp "Chuck ! chuck ! "
of water hens could be heard, and several were shot for specimens.
They were shy, and at sight of man hastened in amongst the
tussock grass, where it was impossible to see them. The frontal
shield is bright red ; bill and feet, bright yellow ; plumage, black
and cinnamon. All parts of the Glen which gave a sufficient depth
of earth and which were not overgrown with trees were honey-
combed with the burrows of different kinds of petrels. They did
not come out by daylight, but their croaking frequently betrayed
them, and in this way several specimens were added to the collec-
tion, These included Priofinus cinereus and broad-billed prions
{Pachyptila vittata Keyteli). At night a large fire was lighted on
the beach, and several specimens were shot as they flew inwards
through the light. Some of them fell into the tussock grass, and
in the dark could not be found. In the morning, when taken up,
they were seen to have been almost entirely picked to pieces and
eaten by mice, which swarmed in large numbers at the foot of
the Glen. These mice are the ordinary Mus musculus, and were
no doubt introduced by earlier landing parties. On several parts
of the island were large penguin rookeries, deserted at this time
of year except for a few straggling Rockhoppers {Eudyptes chryso-
come). The thrush, common on Nightingale and Inaccessible
w
338 Appendix
Islands, was not seen at all on Gough Island. No albatross or
moUymauk nests were seen, but there might have been some on
the north-west side, which is the most exposed to the winds, and
thus most likely to be selected by these birds.
The collection of birds from Gough Island numbered over fifty
specimens, referable to nine species :
Garrodia Nereis Chuhhi (Matthews), which was shot as it flew
over the light of the camp fire.
Priofinus cinereus, found in burrows on the hill.
Oestrelata mollis (Gould), found in burrows near the beach.
Their croakings could be heard all night.
Pachyptila vittata Keyteli (Matthews), found as above. From
the noise they were making there must have been many in the
neighbourhood of the camp.
Stercorarius antarcticus (Lesson). Skuas were not common,
and only about twenty were seen during the visit.
Sterna vittata (Reich). Many terns were seen, both in adult
and juvenile plumage.
Nesospiza Goughensis (Eagle Clarke). Birds of this type were
brought back by the Scotia and described by Eagle Clarke, Orn.
Report Scottish Nat. Antarctic Expedition. They have been classed
as two species, but from examination of the twenty-eight specimens
in the Quest collection it is thought that these birds are of one
species, and the difference in plumage can be accounted for by age.
(N.B. See paper by Mr. P. R. Lowe, M.B.O.U.)
Gallinula or Porphyriornis Comeri (Allen). This water-hen is
common on Gough Island, but is not seen on Tristan da Cunha.
Some of the islanders say they have seen it on the western side
of Inaccessible Island.
Eudyptes chrysocome. Only two or three were seen.
Gough Island gives an impression from the sea of almost
tropical greenness, and on landing at the Glen one has much the
same impression, for the slopes and hillsides are thickly covered
with vegetation. Trees, tree ferns and tussock grass are most
abundant, whilst the rocks and cliff faces are covered with mosses
and lichens. The trees are the Island Tree (Phylica nitida). An
interesting discovery was made by the geologist of a grove of
trees of a different sort. They were in the "little glen" on the
southern side of Archway Rock, and he describes them as "grow-
ing as if planted in an orchard," reaching a height of four to
five metres and spreading to four metres or more. It has since
been identified as a variety of Sophora tetraptera J. Mull, var. nov.
Goughensis. About the beach there is a luxuriant growth of dock
{Riimex fructescens and Rtitnex Ohtusifolius). There was also a
wild celery, which was found by comparison to differ considerably
from the type species from Tristan da Cunha (Thouars Fl. Trist. p.
43 Apium Australe). This plant was also collected by the Scotia,
Appendix 339
and after an examination of the specimens, as well as those from
the Quest, it has been decided to name it as a new species, Apium
Goughensis. In the sheltered parts of the cliffs were several
varieties of maidenhair fern (Adiantum aethiopicum) ; mosses and
lichens were everywhere. On the flat ground bordering the beach
grew a thick covering of grasses, mostly dwarfed Scirpus sp.,
with here and there some bunches of Agrostis ramulosa. Thistles
and Gnaphalium grew rankly near the edge of the penguin
rookeries. The wild tea plant (Chenopodium tomentosum)
flourished luxuriantly. The small Hydrocotyle (most probably
leucophalica), though dwarfed by its environment, was noticed by
its distinctive leaf. The thicker vegetation grew to a level of about
2,000 feet, when most of it ceased. At this level the cranberry in
its southern temperate form {Empetrum nigrum var. ruhrum)
grows abundantly. At this season of the year (June ist) it was
loaded with bright red fruit. Lycopodium was found by the
naturalist at the highest level attained by him, but in a dwarfed
condition. Agrostis ramulosa and A. media seemed to thrive at
higher levels. Cotula Goughensis, a new species described by
Dr. Rudmose Brown of the Scotia, which grows to a height of
30 cm. near the beach, is dwarfed to 5 or 6 cm. on the higher
slopes. Only closely related forms were noticed at the higher
levels, but a longer period ashore and a more careful and
prolonged search at these levels might produce something new.
In all thirty specimens referable to nineteen species were col-
lected. Of these, three were not in the collection made by the
naturalists of the Scotia, but they collected several species not
collected by us. Two of the new specimens are of plants common
to the Tristan da Cunha group. Sophora tetraptera had not been
previously collected, though Mr. Comer, who' was amongst one
of the earliest parties to visit the island, described two different
types of trees. The members of the Scotia, whose visit, owing to
bad weather, was very hurried, not finding the second tree, decided
that the tree fern (Lomaria horyana) was meant.
We left Gough Island for Cape Town on June ist. We saw
several kinds of petrels. Wandering albatross. Cape pigeons,
many shearwaters (Puffinus gravis and Priofinus cinereus)^ and two
species of mollymauk, black-browed and yellow-nosed, in juvenile
plumage with a showing of grey under the throat, were observed.
Several attempts were made to catch a specimen with a grey
marking on the throat, but without success. It appeared to
resemble the mollymauk described by Dr. Harvey Pirie and Mr.
Eagle Clarke, but identification was impossible whilst it was on
the wing. Several dark-brown petrels, probably Oestrelata mac-
roptera, were seen. A number of Sooty albatross which came
about the ship had white spots on the head and shoulder. Attempts
were made to hook one with a fishing line, but failed. As we
340 Appendix
approached South Africa albatross of a darker phase and a number
of mollymauks with dark-grey heads and throats were seen, prob-
ably the young of Thalassogeron chlororynchus. Nearer land
many gannets were noticed diving into the sea.
This report* cannot be regarded as an exhaustive account of
the natural history work of the expedition, being merely a r6sum6
of the naturalist's provisional report. Much work still requires to
be done before the full value of the collections can be esti-
mated. The collection, especially of birds, is a large one, and has
added considerably to the material already available in the
museums. Several new species and varieties have been provision-
ally determined. Throughout the whole period of the expedition
conditions were never favourable for natural history work, and
change of plan compelled that many of the parts should be visited
in mid-winter instead of in summer, with consequent disadvantages
as regards weather and landing facilities. The amount of mate-
rial brought home reflects great credit on Captain Wilkins as a
collector and on his assistants.
KoTE. — At the time of going to press I learn that one of the buntings
taken from Inaccessible and Nightingale Islands has been determined as a
new species, and that the larger Gough Island finch is a new genus. The
latter is being named Rowettia, after Mr. Rowett.
APPENDIX III
METEOROLOGY
J. A. McIlroy, M.R.C.S., L.R.C.P., and L. D. A. Hussev, B.Sc.
Meteorological observations made at one single station are of
little value by themselves. Their full value lies in the possibility
of their being correlated with observations made contempora-
neously at other stations in neighbouring parts of the world.
Particularly is this so where the station is a moving one, as in the
case of the Quest. Consequently no attempt can be made here to
draw any general conclusions from the observations which were
made on the voyage.
The complete meteorological logs have been handed over to
the Marine Meteorological Section of the Air Ministry, as, with
all the material that they can collect from ships all over the world,
that body is in a position to make the best use of our results.
At the outset of the expedition the Air Ministry very kindly
gave us every assistance, and lent us a great deal of apparatus
and many instruments on the understanding that they would be
allowed to use the information that we gathered. This arrange-
* A complete and interesting report has been received at the last moment
from Capt. Wilkins, too late to go to press. It is hoped that this will be
published separately at an early date. — Author.
fhoto : IVilkins
THE ISLAND TREE CPHYLICA NITIDA)
SEA-ELEPHANTS AMONG THE ROCKS
Fhoto: Wilkins
COMMANDER WORSLKY TAKING OBSKRVATIONS OF THE SUN BY SEXTANT
Photo: Dr. Macklin
HUSSEY (TAKING SEA TEMPERATURES). COMMANDER WILD AND McILROY
Appendix 341
ment has been carried out, and we hope that among the many
scientific results of the expedition we have been able to add one
link to the chain of observations which is being made daily all
round the world, and so we may have justified our existence.
The instruments used consisted of the following :
(a) Two standard ships' screens, in each of which were a
wet and dry bulb thermometer. These were placed one on each
side of the bridge, well exposed and as far as possible away from
any draughts and convection currents from galley and engine-
room. The readings were taken from the screen on the weather side.
(b) A marine-pattern mercury barometer, hung in the gyro-
scope-compass room, which was also used to check the ship's
aneroid which was placed in the wheel-house.
(c) A barograph, which was, however, of little use owing to
the bad weather that we experienced and the continual rolling
and pitching of the ship.
(d) Several sea thermometers and hydrometers for surface work.
(e) Various equipment, such as kites, balloons and meteoro-
graphs, which were taken for experimental purposes.
Complete observations were taken every four hours of air
and sea temperatures, humidity, pressure, wind, direction and
form of clouds, etc., in the usual ship's meteorological log.
Except when the ship was in port, where permanent stations
existed, these observations were carried out continuously during
the whole of the voyage, making roughly about two thousand
odd sets of observations in all.
Although no general conclusion can yet be drawn from these
observations, a general summary of the weather conditions
experienced by the Quest may be of interest.
As far as actual wind force is concerned, the first part of the
journey, to Lisbon, was uneventful, except for a short but heavy
gale when off the Bay of Biscay. This gale lasted at its height
for about eight hours, after which it gradually eased off. It was
accompanied by a sudden very marked fall in the barometer,
but no corresponding change in the wind, which was blowing from
the south all the time.
The day after leaving Lisbon, when well out to sea, a large
waterspout was observed only about a mile away westward.
From now onwards, until after leaving St. Vincent, the wind
was steady but weak, never once approaching gale force. The
north-east Trades, even, almost failed us, and were of very little
assistance indeed.
This state of affairs continued till we reached Rio de Janeiro,
and it was after leaving this port on December i8th, 1921, that
our troubles from the weather commenced.
Two days before Christmas, 192 1, a very calm sea and still,
damp air, with the horizon obscured, gave us fears for the future.
342 Appendix
That these were only too well founded was proved next day,
when, with a steadily falling barometer and an equally steadily
rising sea, the wind increased from the south. The sky became
overcast and intense squalls followed each other in rapid succession.
Conditions became worse during the next three days, and on the fol-
lowing two days, December 29th and 30th, the wind blew with hur-
ricane force. Huge seas threatened to swamp the ship, the helm
was lashed, and everyone except Sir Ernest and Captain Wild were
sent below. Sir Ernest said that never in all his life had he seen
such mountainous seas. Oil-bags were hung out, and we ran before
the storm. On the fifth day conditions seemed to improve, but it
was only a temporary lull, and a storm of equal violence succeeded
this, lasting for two days. This gale lasted in all over seven
days, and during most of this time it was rarely possible to cook
a proper meal or, indeed, keep one's balance on deck at all; and
the mere taking of the observations under these circumstances
entailed a pretty thorough soaking. Fortunately a barographic
curve was obtained during the whole of this storm, and it shows
in a striking way the sudden rapid fall in atmospheric pressure
which occurred during this time.
There was not a dry spot left on the ship, and the hydrograph
and maximum and minimum thermometers were encrusted with
salt from the seas, which even washed over the upper bridge
where these instruments were placed.
January, 1922, gave promise of fair weather, and as far as wind
was concerned that promise was fulfilled. The voyage from South
Georgia down to the pack was marked by one or two gales of
moderate severity, with the sky almost continuously overcast.
Close, heavy pack seemed nearly always associated with fine, clear
weather and southerly winds, while the reverse obtained as the
wind veered to the opposite direction. When actually frozen in
and drifting with the pack the weather was generally fine.
The lowest temperature experienced was 6°F. on March 15th
in latitude 63° 45' S. and longitude 45° 12' W., and again on
March i6th and 17th in about the same position. At these tem-
peratures— 26° below freezing — the water round the wet-bulb was
frozen, and so dry-bulb readings alone were obtainable.
From this time onwards gales generally from the south were
of much more frequent occurrence than fine weather or even
moderate winds, and Elephant Island lived up to its evil reputa-
tion by being the centre of such bad weather as to make landing
extremely dangerous.
From South Georgia to Tristan da Cunha — May 8th to
May 19th — the journey was marked by such bad weather that
winds of under gale force occurred on less than half a dozen
occasions only. This can to some extent be accounted for by the
lateness of the season and the approach of mid-winter.
Appendix 343
With the exception of one sharp gale, the weather experienced
round Gough Island was a considerable improvement on that
which had been our almost daily lot for the previous two months.
Our stay at Tristan was not long enough for us to collect
information as to general weather conditions on the island, but
the padre who is now there, and who is erecting a meteorological
station, will doubtless supply a useful series of observations.
From Gough Island to Cape Town — June 2nd to June i8th,
1922 — similar weather was experienced, only about four days not
showing gales. Slight, but very slight, improvement in weather
conditions occurred on the way up to Ascension from the Cape,
but from thence onwards much finer weather was cur lot till we
were two days off England, when another gale welcomed us home.
As we made clear at first, this memorandum is not intended to
be a compleiie and detailed dissection and analysis of the two thou-
sand odd series of observations that were made during the voyage,
but only to indicate how bad weather handicapped all our efforts
in the southern hemisphere.
If, when these results come, in the course of time, to be
considered in conjunction with others made in those parts, we
shall have added our little bit to the present very meagre know-
ledge of weather conditions there, we shall feel satisfied. For
every addition to our knowledge of regional meteorology con-
tributes to our knowledge of meteorology in general, and so helps
us to understand the many perplexing problems which meteorolo-
gists all the world over are up against.
In conclusion, a word of thanks is due to Captain Brooke-
Smith and Commander Hennessey of the Meteorological Section
of the Air Ministry, for much valuable advice and assistance, both
before we sailed and after our return home.
APPENDIX IV
HYDROGRAPHIC WORK
The following is a brief account of the hydrographic work carried
out hy Commander Worsley, R.N.R., assisted by Lieut-
Commander Jeffery, R.N.R., J. Dell, P.O., R.N., and
Captain G. V. Douglas.
The hydrographic equipment consisted, besides sextants, theodo-
lites, chronometers and compasses, of three sounding machines
— a Kelvin and two Lucas machines — a gyroscope compass, two
rangefinders, and a wireless set.
344 Appendix
The Kelvin sounding machine has a 7-stranded steel wire
.35 of an inch in circumference and 300 fathoms long. It is
intended for soundings to a depth of 100 fathoms, for which
purpose thin glass tubes of chemicals are provided which record
the pressure to that depth, but we frequently took soundings to
280 fathoms by stopping the ship and getting a perpendicular
cast.
The Lucas machine, which, in addition to having been lent to
Sir Ernest Shackleton on his different expeditions and supplied
to the French, German and Australian Antarctic Expeditions of
1908-10 and 191 1 and also the Canadian Arctic Expedition of
1913, has done the major part of the work of exploring the
profound depths of the world's oceans, and is, I believe, easily
the best machine to-day for the work.
Ours had 6,000 fathoms Brunton wire, having a diameter of
028 inches and weighing 123 lbs. per 1,000 fathoms, with a
breaking strain of 200 lbs. We also had a 500-fathom Lucas,
suitable for boat work, and with which I have always hoped at
some time to sound, through a crevasse, for the thickness of the
Great Antarctic ice sheet. Tlie 6,000-fathom machine could also
be used for kites, small balloons and other aerial work.
The Sperry gyroscope compass worked well as far South as
we went— 69O 13/ — but the liveliness of the vessel made the initial
adjustments difficult, and the constant ramming and blows from
the ice threw it out again. The new type of mercury ballistic
with which it was fitted minimized much of the bad effects of the
bumping. Add to this the small size of the vessel not enabling
us to carry more fuel for the actuating dynamo, and the lateness
of the season prevented us stopping often for the necessary time
to steady it up.
We can, however, say from our experience of it that in a
slightly steadier vessel, with more time and dynamo fuel, that
even in latitudes beyond 70° it would be most useful for quickly
ascertaining the variation of the magnetic needles and, in con-
junction with the rangefinder, for quickly making a chart of a
coast or islands which the vessel might be passing. Much of
our survey of Gough Island was so made. Our average time
taken to get the gyro running correctly from the start was about
six hours.
The 65 cm. Barr and Stroud rangefinder was useful in giving
the distances to lay off the bearings of the various points in
survey work and, with vertical angles, obtaining the heights of
peaks, islands and icebergs.
The larger 4 feet 6 inches rangefinder was virtually useless,
as we could only use it in a completely land-locked harbour.
The naval wireless set, rotary spark transmission and con-
tinuous wave, lent us by the Admiralty, was particularly useful
Appendix 345
in giving us G.M.T., and so correct longitude. Our reception
was very good; we received, when 68"^ 49' S., time signals from
Rio Janeiro at a distance of 3,206 miles. We heard messages
from 'Frisco at a distance of about 8,000 miles while in 65*^ S.
lat., and later in lat. 50° S. received time signals from Nauen,
Germany, 9,000 miles distant. The latitude appeared to be a
governing factor, as S. of 50° S. lat. we experienced very bad
atmospherics, while S. of 55° there appeared to be an almost
constant roar in the receivers, making it impossible to read
signals, although they could be often heard. There may have
been more silent intervals than appeared, as we only had one
operator, and being busy on ship's work he only listened for
half an hour at the appointed time for the signals.
The greatest distance that we transmitted signals was about
400 miles in Cape Colony ; normally we could get 200 miles. The
earth was rather a problem; being a wooden ship, we fastened
large copper sheets to the ship under water, but they were
repeatedly torn loose when forcing our way through the ice.
The wireless telephone lent by Marconi's worked very well.
We spoke for a distance of 100 miles with it approaching Rio,
and it was made evident that on any expedition it would be very
useful, its only drawback being the loud roar made by the engine,
which could be. silenced considerably.
A new large-scale chart was made of St. Paul Rocks and
surrounding submarine plateau contained within the hundred-
fathom line on a scale of 200 feet to the inch, the Admiralty
Chart 388 being on a scale of 2,029 f^^* ^^ the inch.
From their small size (the largest being 380 feet by 180 feet)
and the probability that erosion is taking place, it is doubtful
if they can ever be used for an aerial station or any other purpose
except a lighthouse or wireless meteorological and directional
station.
At South Georgia we carried out series of over two hundred
soundings W., S.W. , N. and E. of South Georgia, discovering
several banks, one with apparently a fairly clear bottom for
trawling in from 50 to 100 fathoms from 10 to 30 miles offshore
to the N.W., but this area requires more examination than we
had time to give it. All the other banks had very irregular
bottoms.
We found no indication of a bank at a greater distance to
the N.E., as has been reported, but the 200-fathom line is much
father off to the S.W. than was expected.
From whalers' reports and our soundings it would appear
that there is a more or less continuous bank to the N. and N.E.
of and parallel to the island, with deeper water forming a sub-
marine valley between. With a limited examination, we found
the bottom to consist mainly of a dark grey sand, gravel and
346
Appendix
stones. The whalers report that these banks swarm with an
incredible number of very good eating fish, so easily caught that
they can be "jigged " up with no bait, but a bit of bright metal
on the hook.
There is a large Roman Catholic population eight days' steam
away in South America, and it is possible that a profitable trawling
and fish-curing industry could be started here.
U.»C CH'flW 1
\
[*i
V
^<^'
^--\
" L
"^ m
m
ST PAUL ROCKS
I(y C«f FA V«brOr».1UUtn< V' Om^ OO-JtOrrrXHM
•QUCST'bv*. 1921
ScaU of Yard*
A sketch chart of Prinz Olaf Harbour in Possession Bay,
where Lever Brothers have a whaling station, was made. This
is the best harbour at the west end of South Georgia.
Some additions to the plan of Stromness Bay, Admiralty
Chart No. 3,579, were made.
Soundings from Cumberland Bay to Cooper Island were taken.
The bottom here is rocky and irregular, with several reefs and
dangers, all, however, fortunately marked by kelp — the great
safeguard and aid to the navigation around South Georgia, except
Appendix 347
on the south, south-west and west coasts, where icebergs tear much
of the kelp off. The kelp is useless, however, if steering towards
bright sunlight, as the glare on the water makes it impossible
to see it soon enough. The ss. Fridtjof Nansen was so wrecked
on a reef 7 miles offshore near Cape George in 1907; but the
whalers steam full speed straight for the coast in thick fogs,
and being very handy turn in almost their length immediately
they see the kelp, which frequently reaches to the surface in
60 fathoms and even deeper water.
A sketch chart of the passage inside Cooper Island and of
Cooper Bay anchorage for small vessels was made.
A rough chart of Larsen Harbour, the best harbour at the
S.E. end of South Georgia, was made. There is enough fiat
ground here to make a small whaling station, and sufficient water
could be got from the glacier streams.
We took new soundings in Royal Bay and across the front
of the Great Glacier, steaming along a quarter of a mile inside
the line of the glacier front of 1902 (Nordenskjold), but along the
Hne laid down by the German survey of 1882, showing an advance
and then a retreat of the glacier front.
Lastly, we sounded from Cooper Island out to and east of
Gierke Rocks, and obtained a bearing and sketch of Gierke Rocks
from the hills at the back of Cooper Island.
A running survey with soundings was made round Zavodovski,
the northernmost island of the Sandwich group, an inhospitable
island, difficult or dangerous to land on, and still more so to gain
a way up the cliffs of rocks and ice to the upland.
The peak, unfortunately, was hidden by clouds, and rio signs
of activity of the volcano were seen. No outlying dangers were
visible — in several places we got 20 fathoms 100 yards from the
shore. On the north side were numerous grounded bergs,
indicating shoal water. These bergs were about 40 to 50 feet
high. On the basis of i fathom below water to i foot above
they would give a depth of 40 to 50 fathoms. On the eastern
side we saw faint blue hazy smoke issuing in several places from
clefts and caves in the cliffs, and when we got to leeward could
distinctly perceive an unpleasant sulphurous smell. In this con-
nexion Captain C. A. Larsen, in November, 1908, reported :
*' . . . An active volcano; air poisonous with fumes of burning
sulphur; landing impossible owing to steep-to coasts. . . ."
(Larsen, as a matter of fact, was ill for some days as a result of
breathing such fumes in one of the group.)
Two gently sloping uplands on the S. and E. afford a breeding
ground for myriads of penguins, who appear to keep scrupulously
clear of the fumes on the eastern side.
At Elephant Island we made a rough survey of Cape Lookout
anchorage where we anchored, and took several soundings S.
348 Appendix
and W. of Elephant Island. We anchored at Cape Lindsay
(N.W. of island) and Seal Rocks, taking bearings and soundings.
None of these anchorages can be described as harbours, and with
an onshore breeze they must be left at once. We steamed through
the intricate nest of rocks and reefs that stretch for over 20 miles
to the west and north-west of Cape Lindsay. This was very
ticklish navigation, requiring a very close, unremitting watch
from the crow's-nest, there being no warning kelp, the only guides
being a brown discoloration under the water and an occasional
swirl of the sea.
The existence of Pagoda Rock was practically disproved by a
sounding of 2,902 fathoms 2 miles east of its reported position.
It can with safety be expunged from the chart.
Forty miles north-east of the position assigned to Ross's
appearance of land we obtained a sounding of 2,446 fathoms
blue mud, and could see no land from the masthead with clear
weather. It seems improbable, therefore, that it exists, unless
it is south or west of the position given, as Ross appears to
have been working on dead reckoning, nor could it have been
far in those directions or we should have found indications of it
during our drift in Shackleton's Expedition 1914-16.
At Gough Island we determined the position of Penguin Island
(on the east coast) to be 40° 18' 10" S. and 9° 54' o'' W., which
is 2' 22" S. and 4' 6" E. of the latest Admiralty Chart, but only
50" N. and 2' o" E. of the Admiralty's previous position. These
positions were taken by a mean of a number of solar and stellar
observations on different days by sextant from the ship and
bearings and rangefinder distance to Penguin Island, being only
able to use the northern and eastern horizons.
Our chronometers were kept correct by W.T. time signals.
(It would be interesting to know if this is the first time that the
position of an outlying island like this has been verified by W.T.
time signals.)
The position of Glen Anchorage was also accurately observed,
agreeing with the position by Captain Robertson ss. Scotia of
Bruce's Scottish Expedition.
We determined the position of the anchorage in Lot's Wife's
Cove, north end of island, by three observations for latitude and
one for longitude, surveyed and sounded two new anchorages,
and sounded the southern, eastern and part of the northern
coast.
A new chart of Gough Island, with large and important
corrections, on a scale of 1/3643 1 was made.
The highest point of the island was ascertained with an
aneroid by Captain Douglas to be 2,915 feet in the centre of the
island, not 4,380 feet at the northern part, as previously charted.
Very good fish were caught in great abundance in the whole
Photo: Wilkins
SETTING UP KITES FOR THE TAKING OF METEOROLOGICAL
OBSERVATIONS
il
Appendix
349
group, and crayfish abound, at Gough Island in particular, to such
an extent that it is possible a profitable cannery could be started
there.
The February-March, 1922, limits and conditions of the pack
ice for 2,500 miles from 18° E. to 52° W. between the latitudes
of 63^-70° S. were determined. These, compared with Ross's,
Biscoe's, Bellingshausen's and Shackleton's, are very interesting.
GOUGH ISLAND \
ByCainfFjLjVoraley^Jl. '\ SouthWe»tP^*'
"QUEST" R.Y.s. 1922
W1m»
...l.
J I
BsighU in. A<e . Jttptht in, ra^Ums
^•-v
/
showing the great difference between one year and another, and
even one month and another.
In the Tristan da Cunha — Gough Island group, additional
information for the sailing directions was obtained. Materials
and directions were given to Robert Glass, at Tristan da Cunha.
to erect beacons at Falmouth Bay for convenience of the in-
habitants when landing in their boats during darkness, and to
act as leading marks for a safe anchorage for visiting ships.
We practically disproved the existence of a reef reported by
two whaling captains as having been seen by them on voyages
from Cape Town to South Georgia in 35° 40' 5). and 5° 20' W.
350 Appendix
(350 miles E. by N. of Tristan da Cunha). We steamed over
the position and searched for two and a half days in the vicinity,
half the time with a heavy southerly gale, in which a breaking
reef would show 6 or 7 miles away. We sounded in i ,940 fathoms
3 miles south-east from the position given, 1,942 fathoms 15 miles
east, 1,994 fathoms 15 miles south-east, and 1,989 fathoms 8 miles
to the east, besides four soundings of 240 fathoms no bottom and
one of 560 fathoms no bottom at varying distances from 15 miles
south-west to 5 miles north-west. Although I do not think the
reef exists, this instance gives some idea of the time and trouble
a survey ship may expend in searching for danger, and then not
finding it, through having been given a wrong or doubtful
position; but vessels passing this position would be well advised
to keep a good look-out for breakers.
DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS
Thirty-two soundings were taken in the southern ocean,
practically all in previously sounded areas, and so of great value
in adding to our bathymetrical knowledge of the ocean between
the Atlantic Ocean and the Antarctic Continent.
They were made with a Lucas machine, driven by a small
Brotherhood engine, all kindly lent to Sir Ernest Shackleton by
the Telegraph Construction and Maintenance Company, who also
provided the Endurance's Lucas, with which we sounded the
Weddell Sea. Our first line of soundings was run from a position
500 miles east of the Sandwich group to our farthest south point
in 69O 18' S. 17O 11' E., where we unfortunately were barred from
further progress by heavy impenetrable pack to the south, south-
west and south-east. The soundings here were of great interest,
having shoaled from 2,356 fathoms to 1,089 fathoms in a distance
of 100 miles. This, with other indications, made it practically
certain that land lay a short distance south, possibly not more
than 60 to 70 miles.
An irregular line of soundings for over 2,000 miles was then
carried out from 17O E. to 46^ W., mainly within and along the
Antarctic Circle. The bottom, as usual, was mostly blue mud,
droppings from icebergs, but north of "Ross's Appearance of
Land " we dredged up a large haul of angular rocky fragments,
to the joy of the geologist.
Very heavy weather unfortunately prevented us sounding the
blank area between Elephant Island and South Georgia.
Three soundings were taken between South Georgia and
Tristan da Cunha, but heavy weather again prevented our doing
more.
Our last series were taken from 50 miles north of Gough
Island to 35O 40' S. and 5O W., the bottom over this area con-
sisting mainly of white clay (globigerina ooze).
Appendix
351
sano _ ssyo . g?io ss* syso ... sf40
54?30 54T20 54n0
.^"'"ti*.^
SCALE OF NAUTICAL MILES
The three is indi
three Anchorages
"QUEST
O'Brien 1^
ate the
of the
iX-i^i-£^
54?50
51*70
Difficulty was experienced at all times in sounding owing to
the extraordinary liveliness of the Quest, and many more sound-
ings would have been taken but for the slowness of the vessel,
lateness of the season, limited time and bad weather.
A number of heights in the Tristan da Cunha, Gough Island
group, were ascertained by Captain G. V. Douglas with an aneroid
to be marked in excess on the Admiralty charts.
The new heights as determined by him and compared with those
in Admiralty charts are : By By Admiralty
Douglas Chart 2228
Tristan da Cunha ...
... 6,400
7,640
Middle Island ...
200
150
Inaccessible Island ...
... 1,508
1,840
Gough Island
,.. 2,915
4,380
It will be noted that an increase is to be applied to the
Admiralty height of Middle Island only.
352 Appendix
APPENDIX V
MEDICAL
By A. H. Macklin, M.D.
The following is intended to 'give briefly an idea of the special
conditions met with in Antarctic regions and the steps taken
for the prevention of disease.
The chief work of the surgeon of a polar expedition is done before
the ship leaves England, and if it has been properly carried out
there should be little to do during the actual journey. In this
respect casualties are excepted, for naturally they cannot be
foreseen. They are prepared for by providing a good general
surgical outfit, the exact composition of which will depend upon
the amount of money available for its purchase and on the space
at disposal for its storage. Also, as the practice of medicine and
surgery is more of an art than an exact science, it will depend
largely upon the individual surgeon. Many things can be omitted ;
for example, splints, which can be improvised as required.
There are, however, definite lines upon which the prevention
of sickness may be carried out, and the following are important
points : —
Ordinary sickness can be largely ruled out by careful examina-
tion of personnel and insistence on absolute physical fitness. In
making the general examination the following points should be
specially looked for : bad teeth, pyorrhoea, septic tonsils, and any
chronic disease about the mouth, nasal passages or the accessory
sinuses. They are often the cause of latent trouble unsuspected
by the applicant, and their importance will be seen later in deal-
hig" with scurvy. The ears should be tested for hearing and for
any signs of middle ear disease. One should examine for varicose
conditions, haemorrhoids and anal fissure or fistula, rupture, flat
feet, and other deformities of the feet and toes, however slight,
old-standing corns, bunions, etc. A history of dislocations should
be inquired for, especially of the cartilages of the knee. My
opinion is that any of these conditions should absolutely rule out
all new applicants, for the presence of any one of them will inevit-
ably lead to trouble. Their occurrence in men of previous polar
experience must be carefully considered. Venereal disease should
be an absolute bar. The wearing of spectacles does not necessarily
rule out an applicant, but the necessity for them is a great
handicap in cold regions.
There are three main conditions which must be specially
Appendix 353
considered and prepared against ; Scurvy (and allied conditions),
frost-bite and snow-blindness. Sea-sickness is a fourth condition
which may cause disability, but as in the prevention and treatment
of any disease the main principle is to remove the cause, this
cannot be arranged for except by peace offerings to ^^olus. The
individual must "go through it." If he gets over it — good;
if he shows no signs of ever adapting himself, and much of the
work of the expedition is to be done at sea, he must be sent away
at the first opportunity, for chronic sea-sickness is a very wearing
condition and renders the subject of it useless for work. The
Quest was a particularly lively ship, and we lost in this way two
otherwise very useful members of the company.
With regard to sea-sickness remedies which depend mainly
upon drugs having a depressing influence on the brain, I think
they are useful for short journeys of a few hours. For long
journeys with continued bad weather I consider them not only
useless, but harmful.
Scurvy {and allied conditions). — The history of scurvy in war
and famine, in the early days of long voyages, and in Arctic
and Antarctic exploration shows the important part which this
disease has played. Fully developed scurvy is a horrible condition
which renders the individual an offence to himself and to those
about him. A famous Austrian physician, Kramer, described it
as "The most loathsome disease in nature," so that the
demoralizing effect of an outbreak in a small and crowded ship
or land base can easily be imagined.
Although a disease which has been recognized for centuries,
it is only in recent years that medical science has been brought
to bear upon it and the causation fully investigated. The result
is that much new knowledge has been brought to light.
For practical purposes it may be regarded as due to two
main causes :
(i) The lack in the food of an essential factor or vitamin,
which leads to a condition of the body with diminished
resistance to deleterious influences.
(2) The addition to the system during this devitalized state
of a poison.
Prevention aims, therefore, at the provision of food containing
the active vitamin in sufficient quantity and in taking steps to
eliminate as far as possible poisons from the system.
With regard to supplying the vitamin, naturally much of the
provisions carried must be in the form of preserved foods. Un-
fortunately, most canning and preserving processes have a
detrimental effect upon the vitamin, and it is under conditions
where men are compelled to live on them for long periods, witli
no access to fresh foods, that the danger of scurvy arises.
X
354 Appendix
For many years lime-juice was regarded as a sure preventive
and a certain cure, but this has proved fallacious.
There are, however, certain canned and dried foods which
contain active anti-scorbutic vitamin, though not in such great
amount as fresh vegetables. One should endeavour to rely, there-
fore, not on any one product, but on the regular provision of all
foods which are of value in this way.
With regard to the dietary, there are two sets of conditions
to be prepared for : Life on the ship or at a well-stocked base,
permitting of a full and varied diet for which more or less bulky
foods can be used ; and sledging conditions, including abnormal
circumstances arising from accident, which require a close ration.
In making my arrangements I placed reliance on the
following foods : For the first set of conditions, lemon-juice con-
centrated by the method advocated by Surgeon Rear-Admiral
Sir P. W. Bassett-Smith ; dried milk made by the "roller"
process, condensed milk prepared by evaporation in vacuo ; canned
tomatoes ; peas, beans and lentils for being made to germinate,
and on prolonging the use of potatoes, carrots and onions as far as
conditions should permit.
Under sledging conditions the party is placed on a definite
limited allowance. A sledging ration is composed somewhat as
follows : Pemmican, nut food, biscuit, tea, sugar and dried or
condensed milk, amounting to a total weight of about 2}4 lbs.
per man per day, and having a food value of about 5,000 calories.
Of these, only the milk can be said to contain active vitamin,
and not in sufficient quantity to prevent scurvy.
Shackleton added to his Endurance sledging ration capsules
of lime-juice prepared without heat. This was in 191 3 when
the vitamin theory was scarcely evolved, and is an example of
his remarkable ability to organize in detail.
For this expedition I added lemon-juice prepared as for use
aboard ship, but made into tablets and packed in air-tight con-
tainers, and dried milk packed in small air-tight packages, each
package containing only one day's ration, thus avoiding undue
exposure to air.
Three different vitamins are described by investigators :
The anti-rachitic fat-soluble A vitamin.
The anti-neuritic * water-soluble B vitamin, and
The anti-scorbutic water-soluble C vitamin.
I have spoken only of the last ; the first hardly needs considera-
tion here. The anti-neuritic vitamin is more easily preserved and
•upplied than the anti-scorbutic, and for the prevention of beri-
oeri the following foods were added to the ship's dietary : Rice
(containing the germ), wholemeal flour, oatmeal, dried eggs,
* Anti-beri-beri.
Appendix 355
dried peas, beans and lentils, and marmite, a yeast product, for
adding occasionally to soups and stews. For sledging conditions :
Marmite, ^ oz. per man per day (to be placed in the " hoosh ").
In preparing the supplies we carried a large variety of foods,
for it is of importance to prevent monotony in meals. This
Shackleton always realized. The following from the ** The Worst
Journey in the World" is interesting: ** Meanwhile Shackleton 's
hut was very pleasant at this time of year . . . and the food.
Truly Shackleton 's men must have fed like turkey cocks for all
the delicacies here. ..." The addition of a few delicacies adds
little to the cost of an expedition, but means a great deal to those
engaged in it. I think it would surprise most people to know
what can be done in the way of supplying wholesome and attrac-
tive foods in a preserved state by modern plants. There should
be one standard of quality only : the best, and goods should be
obtained only from firms of the highest repute.
The elimination of poisons from the system is aimed at
firstly, by thorough preliminary examination, as already indicated,
to avoid sources of poisons in the body itself, e.g., the mouth,
teeth, throat, and nasal passages with their accessory sinuses,
and, secondly, by ensuring that no bad or ** high " food shall
be eaten.
Constipation in any of the personnel is a factor which must
be avoided, and it is necessary that all hands be impressed with
the importance of a regular daily movement of the bowels and
a complete evacuation at each act. Defaecation is apt to be
hurried or neglected in bad weather at sea and in cold and snowy
weather ashore. Polar travel does not admit of comfortable
latrines, and this often means exposure to wind and drift, for
the daily functions are carried out in the ordinary way. This
exposure of the body, though exceedingly uncomfortable, leads
to no lasting harm, for, as will be shown, it is in the comparatively
bloodless extremities that frost-bite usually occurs. Constipation
is follovv'ed by absorption of poison from the bowel, and so must
be especially avoided if the risk of scurvy is imminent. Its
correction in bad weather must be carefully carried out, for the
cruelty of drastic purgation under these conditions can be
imagined.
In future those responsible must make themselves au fait with
the steps necessary to prevent the onset of deficiency diseases.
Scurvy caused the failure of Lord Anson's expedition ; in Captain
Cook's brilliant voyages it was absent. Compare the bad coM-
ditions in the Alert and Discovery in 1875 with the earlier voyages
of Sir Robert McClure in the Investigator. Always success and
failure have depended upon its presence or absence. In more
recent times, take the case of Captain Scott and the gallant
companions who met their fate so bravely. Mr. Cherry Garrard
356 Appendix
attributes their failure to return from the Pole to several condi-
tions, one of them a deficiency in the calorific value of their ration.
"It is a fact that the polar party failed to make their distance
because they became weak, although they were eating their full
ration or more than their full ration of food, save for a few days
when they were short on the way down the Beardmore Glacier. ..."
He goes on to say : " The Summit (S) ration consisted of biscuits
i6, pemmican 12, butter 2, cocoa 0.57, sugar 3, and tea 0.86 oz. ;
total, 34.43 oz. daily per man."
I do not know the composition of the pemmican, but this ration
should yield nearly 5,000 calories. I should consider it to be
devoid of anti-scorbutic and anti-neuritic vitamin, and, indeed,
the whole medical history of that return journey shows that these
men were fighting an unknown enemy greater than all the forces
of the Antarctic. In a footnote Mr. Cherry Garrard mentions the
possibility of vitamin deficiency, and it is noteworthy that Dr.
Atkinson added fresh onions (brought by the ship) to the next
year's ration. I think there can be no doubt that there was
vitamin deficiency, and it all goes to emphasize my point of the
absolute necessity for careful medical organization to prevent
these preventable conditions, for it is my firm belief that the
cause of Scott's death lay not in the Antarctic, but in his
preparations in England prior to setting out. The knowledge of
the subject necessary to enable him to prepare a sledging ration
containing active vitamin was not then available.
As there are two definite causes of fully developed scurvy,
viz. the lack of "vitamin" and the addition of a poison, so the
symptoms and signs divide themselves into two stages :
(i) A stage of general lassitude with loss of vigour and a
diminished resistance to outside influences.
(2) A stage of toxaemia which once started progresses
rapidly and produces the symptoms and signs usually
associated with scurvy.
One must be constantly on the watch for the first stage, for
unless carefully looked for it will probably not be recognized, as
the man affected can give little clue to what is wrong with him.
I saw many hundreds of such cases during the war in North
Russia when scurvy was common, none of them showing any
local signs at all. When the better-known signs appear, such as
spongy gums, blotches in the skin and lumps in the legs, the
disease is in an advanced stage.
My own arrangements for prevention were published in full
prior to our start in the Lancet, August 13th, 192 1. I believe
this is the only Antarctic expedition that on setting out has
not taken chances with scurvy, though the absence of any signs
of the disease from any of Sir Ernest Shackleton's own parties
Appendix 357
is remarkable. The reason is that the necessary knowledge had
not till that time been available.
Space forbids a full description here, but there are two
important points to which I must refer : Dried cereals by
themselves do not contain active anti-scorbutic vitamin, but
if made to germinate the green shoots which sprout from them
are rich in it. This is a point of immense practical value,
the application of which is obvious. With regard to fresh meat,
it has been shown by Stefansson in the North, and by members
of the Endurance expedition in the South, that health can be
maintained on a purely meat diet, and that fresh meat, if taken
in sufficient quantity, is effective to cure scurvy. Stefansson, in
the Friendly Arctic, says that it must be eaten raw or very much
underdone, but our experience in the South showed that this is
not necessary. In fact, a certain degree of cooking is advisable.
He states also that putrefactive meat is an effective cure for
scurvy. This I think is dangerous teaching; in any stage of
scurvy anything putrefactive should be avoided if possible unless
there is nothing else.
Those general readers who desire to learn more of this most
interesting disease are referred to the bibliography at the end of
the report.
On this expedition there was no scurvy, and no risk of it,
for we were never long enough away from sources of fresh food.
Yet I would emphasize the necessity of strong anti-** deficiency
disease" measures in polar work, whatever the programme may
be, for in the pack ice accidents may at any time occur leading
to altogether unforeseen conditions as regards food supply.
Frost-bite is a condition well known to all polar explorers.
If neglected it may lead to most crippling results, and, like
scurvy, requires careful preventive measures.
The parts of the body most commonly affected are the exposed
parts of the face, especially where the skin is drawn tight over
underlying bone, e.g. the sides of the nose, the cheekbones and
the chin ; the ears, the fingers and the toes. In parts other than
the fingers and toes the condition is usually not serious, for frost-
bite of the face and ears, if neglected, may cause disfigurement,
but no real crippling. It is a good practice for men in company
to scrutinize each others' faces, and a valuable piece of equip-
ment is a small mirror in which a man without companions can
examine his own face. Frost-bite of the fingers, though more
serious, is usually quickly recognized and promptly treated.
Frost-bite of the toes and feet is an extremely dangerous
condition and may have far-reaching results. The danger lies
in the fact that its incidence is often unknown to the man
attacked, and, though he may suspect its onset, he may neglect
to examine his feet, for polar footgear is elaborate and cumber-
358 Appendix
some, examination of toes on the march means a halt, and a
certain amount of time is consumed in unfastening and securing
the foot-coverings.
Prevention is aimed at generally by maintaining health and a
vigorous circulation. Anything which depresses the health and
lowers vitality predisposes to frost-bite. In polar work the most
important are exhaustion, hunger and vitamin deficiency. During
a sledge journey vitamin deficiency, the consequent lack of
resistance, and the more easily induced frost-bite create a condition
of the gravest danger to the man or the party so affected.
Locally, prevention lies in providing suitable clothing. In
whatever form it takes the principle aimed at is the same, viz.
to provide a non-conducting air space round the skin. The head
and ears are protected by woollen and windproof helmets. The
face cannot be covered, for masks get so heavily iced up as to
make things worse. A cowl can be fitted to the helmet which,
when thrown forward, to some extent shields the face from winds.
The hands are enclosed in mitts, not gloves, in which the fingers
are all together. The finger portion should be large enough to
allow inclusion of the thumb when the hand is not in use.
Sometimes two or three pairs are worn, the outer pair being of
windproof material.
To provide adequate foot protection which shall not at the
same time be cumbersome is not an easy matter, for things which
are loose about the feet are unwieldy. Woollen socks which
enmesh the air in their stitches provide a good insulating air space.
In low temperatures two, three or four pairs may be necessary.
To prevent constriction of the feet it is of importance that each
outer pair of socks should be a size larger than the one inside,
and so they should be supplied in series. The cramming of a
foot with too many pairs of socks into a boot too small for them
is bad, for the circulation of blood to the toes is restricted and
the air space is lost. Cold feet have often been cured by telling
the wearer to remove a pair of socks.
All possible steps must be taken to see that the air space is
not replaced by moisture, i.e. the feet and coverings must be
kept dry. This is a difficult problem ; coverings which allow of
ventilation allow access of damp from the outside, and waterproof
coverings retain perspiration. It is usually impossible to ensure
absolute dryness, and therefore socks should always be changed
before turning in to sleep. This should be made an inviolable
rule, yet it is one which is often broken. Damp socks should
not be placed in a freezing atmosphere, for the moisture in them
will freeze and render difficult the putting of them on in the
morning. They should be kept in the sleeping-bag or placed
under the jersey. By this means they dry rapidly. Sennegrass
may be used for taking up perspiration ; it has the property of
Appendix 359
rapidly giving up its moisture. Some people prefer to use pieces
of flannel instead of socks ; the pieces are wrapped about the feet,
and have the advantage that when taken off they can be spread
out and thus dry more rapidly.
All tight fittings and all constrictions which serve to impede
the circulation should be avoided. Success in preventing frost-
bite is attained only by continued and careful attention to detail.
Precautions which are carried out by men in good condition
are liable to be ignored by those who are exhausted or weak from
any cause, and under these conditions frost-bite occurs frequently.
A frost-bitten part becomes waxy white in appearance. If treated
at once no harm results, if neglected death of the part ensues.
Treatment on the spot consists not in rubbing the part with snow
(men have been killed for less), but in applying dry, gentle warmth.
Very light massage may be used, but violent rubbing, especially
of the face, is liable to remove the cuticle and leave a weeping
sore. Fingers can be thrust inside the affected man's own cloth-
ing next to the warm skin. A frozen toe can be similarly nursed
back by a " Good Samaritan " placing the toe against his skin
and enfolding the ankle — a most unpleasant job, but most excellent
treatment. A hand taken from a warm mitt can be placed on
the face, nose or ears. Recovery is accompanied by an intense
feeling of "pins and needles." A part that does not immediately
come back to normal must be kept warm and dry, and the appli-
cation of a little methylated spirit or turpentine is good.
It is essential to avoid grease and wet. I have, in the
Antarctic, the Italian Alps, and in Russia, made extensive tests
of oils, fats and grease, and have come to the conclusion that
the application of vaseline or ointment is the worst treatment
possible, especially if the part is liable to be again exposed to
cold. Too great heat is bad. The circulation must be coaxed
back gently. Too sudden a return leads to exudation and choked
capillaries, just as theatre passages are choked at the cry of
"Fire!"
Non-recovery leads ultimately to gangrene. If superficial, the
part may separate of itself, leaving a good new skin underneath
which is at first very tender ; if deeper, judicious amputation may
be required. The gangrene may be dry or moist. In the former
case the part shrinks and becomes black and scaly, the condition
having little effect upon the general health. It is dry and in-
offensive. In the case of moist gangrene the part becomes septic,
is very offensive, and absorption of poisons leads to impaired
health. The amount of the limb that requires amputation depends
upon the severity and extent of the frost-bite. It must be em-
phasized that in examining a part for frost-bite the waxy
appearance may not be present. It does not follow that the part
has not been frost-bitten or is not seriously affected. There is a
36o Appendix
more slowly produced condition, due to the action of prolonged
cold, in which blood returning- into the capillaries which have
been damaged by the continued constriction due to the cold sets
up inflammation and exudation, which may lead to death of the
part. Signs of mottling, at first pinky white, later blue-grey,
should be looked for, and if they appear the parts must be treated
with the greatest care. If circumstances permit, the limb should
be raised, rested, and dry, warm (not hot) dressings applied.
For unbroken parts I use cotton wool which has been thoroughly
dried, bandaged lightly; for cases when the skin is broken, lint
which has been warmed and the surface scorched to render it
sterile, covered with warm, dry wool, and again lightly bandaged.
This simple treatment can be applied under any conditions in
which it is possible to produce a flame. Cases take a long
time to recover fully. Ointments, hot wet dressings, and
poultices should be avoided. A milder though similarly pro-
duced effect leads to an irritable condition resembling chilblains.
It affects commonly the tips of the ears. The momentary exposure
of bare skin does not lead to immediate frost-bite, but the length
of time that it can be exposed depends upon the temperature,
the amount of moisture present, and the strength of wind. It is
often necessary in carrying out a piece of work to expose the
hands, which may require periodical warming up. Much depends
upon the circulation, for if a job is attempted after the body has
been for some time at rest frost-bite sets in quickly. If, on the
other hand, the individual has been working hard, walking or
running, and the blood is pulsating actively, the hands and other
parts can be exposed for comparatively long periods without harm.
As a result of unrecognized and untreated frost-bite strong
men have been crippled for life. Constant watchfulness is
required ; its danger cannot be over-estimated, nor too much
emphasis placed upon measures for its prevention.
Notes on Oils and Grease
It is commonly believed that fats, oils and grease are good
non-conductors of heat and if placed on the clothes or on the
skin help to keep one warm. There was never a greater fallacy,
for it is common experience of polar explorers that the reverse
is the case. Circumstances do not permit of regular laundrying
or even of regular hot baths, and situations are not rare at this
work in which men have spent several months without a wash
or a change of clothes. After the loss of the Endurance the party
had neither for a year. The clothes inevitably became greasy,
especially about the elbows and thighs. The cold could be felt
"striking through" the greasy parts.
It was often necessary to kill and cut up seals. In the process
the left hand grasped the blubber and became very greasy, whilst
Appendix 361
the right hand, which wielded the knife, very largely escaped.
Usually it was possible only to wipe with snow, which had little
effect to remove the grease, before replacing the hands in mitts.
Subsequently the left hand felt colder and was more liable to
frost-bite. Socks which have been worn for some time and become
slightly greasy are less warm than clean, dry socks. There are
socks of a type manufactured by certain firms which have been
deliberately imbued with grease to make them warmer. The
wearing of them produced the opposite effect. During the war
I made experiments upon myself and with troops, in which two
stretcher-bearers massaged the feet of each man, the left foot
with whale oil and the right by rubbing only. Both were done
at the same time and for the same length of time. The results
were greatly in favour of the dry rubbing. I collected also a
number of socks which had been worn (and were therefore greasy)
and dried them thoroughly. I acquired some absolutely new socks,
and issued one dry, greasy sock and one new sock to each man.
Evidence in this case was not unanimous, but was numerically
in favour of the clean sock.
The conclusion is that oils and grease are of small value for
protection against cold and should as far as possible be avoided.
It may be thought that by not washing or having a change
of clothes for a long period the skin gets Into a bad state.
Fortunately, in the Antarctic there are no human parasites, and
one does not perspire so freely as in warmer climates. Never-
theless, when working hard in very low temperatures perspiration
may be very free, and consequently well-ventilated clothing is
necessary. Modern Antarctic equipment consists of warm woollen
underclothes and very light windproof overalls made of closely
woven material. Furs are not used, though they are favoured
still by some Arctic explorers. The theory is often put forward
that the best procedure to adopt in the Arctic is to copy as nearly
as possible the clothing of the Esquimaux, for, that being their
home, naturally they know what is best. This view is strongly
urged by Canadians who trade along the Arctic coast. Certainly
it has the advantage of cheapness, but I wonder if they went
to Central Africa whether they would adopt the loin cloth — also
cheap? As a matter of fact, experience has shown that the skin
improves in condition and takes on a white, silky softness that
some women might envy. It is advisable under the conditions
to seize any chance of still air and bright sunshine to remove the
clothes, dust from them the flakes of skin which are constantly
being shed, and give the body an air bath.
Snow-hlindness is a condition of acute and sudden congestion
of the eyes, affecting chiefly the conjunctivae (the delicate mem-
branes which cover the greater part of the front of the eye).
The little blood-vessels become dilated, producing a prickly sensa-
X*
362 - Appendix
tion of grit in the eyes, which become painful in strong light.
The condition may become worse, leading to a marked congestion
with heavy discharge and total blindness. Snow-blindness is
produced less frequently by sun-glare on the snow than by a
diffuse dull light which casts no shadows and requires continuous
strain to pick out hummocks and unevenness of the ice. It is
said that people with less pigment, i.e. "blue-eyed" people,
suffer more than those with darker, more heavily pigmented eyes,
but this is not always the case.
The condition can be prevented by wearing goggles with
tinted lenses ; e.g. the ordinary dark Crookes lenses are quite
effective. The frame is of importance, for it must allow of free
ventilation without side glare. The Rowley snow goggle, as used
by Amundsen and Shackleton, is a thoroughly effective design.
The contour of the face and the depth of the eye sockets differ
so much in different individuals that each man should be fitted
for goggles prior to starting.
If treated early the condition gives little trouble. Even bad
cases are easily treated on board ship, or at a base, by protecting
the eye from strong light, and frequent bathing with warm water,
boracic lotion, or, better still, very dilute zinc sulphate. If on
the march, treatment is more difficult, for lotions will probably
not be available. Small, portable and very effective tabloid outfits
are obtainable, containing eye drugs in small lamellae, which,
when placed in the eye, are dissolved in the tears and so form
lotions. It must be remembered, when selecting the small outfits,
that one which may be easily manipulated in the warm show-
rooms of Messrs. Burroughs and Wellcome may not be so easily
handled with fingers benumbed and made clumsy with cold.
For the non-medical man the best treatment is first to place
in the eye a cocaine lamella to relieve pain, and follow it in a
few minutes by another of zinc sulphate. Pituitary and adrenal
extracts have a very rapid effect, but must be used with great
care. Untreated snow-blindness in bad cases may lead to per-
manent results. The condition is preventable and easily treated
in its early stage, hence once more the great importance of careful
preparation.
Bacterial affections are rare. "Colds in the head" hardly
ever occur, and if they do are probably due to germs brought
by the party themselves. Wounds, however, readily become septic.
Even clean cuts take a long time to heal, and unite with more
scarring than usually happens in more temperate regions. This
is due to the comparatively bloodless condition of the skin. Steps
should always be taken to keep the injured part as warm as
possible. When possible it is an economy to rest and carefully
look after open wounds however slight, for the reluctance to heal
often causes long-continued annovance.
Appendix 363
Every polar surgeon must be prepared to do his own nursing.
There is no one else to do it. Conditions for a sick or injured
man, even under the best circumstances, are far from being ideal,
yet much can be done by improvising and keeping an adaptable
mind. Comfort, even for an invalid, is a relative term. The
great thing is to keep the patient cheery, and in the ship, at a
base hut, in a tent, or even under an upturned boat, one can be
continually doing little things to make him feel that he is being
well looked after.
The surgeon's advice is often sought with regard to
local food supplies. There is very little in the way of
animal flesh that one cannot eat if put to it, and a few precautions
in cooking can make almost anything palatable. The meat
of whales, seals, sea-elephants, sea-leopards and penguins is
all very similar, being composed of a dark red coloured flesh
of coarse texture. They have a somewhat strong oily taste,
which one learns not to dislike in cold regions. The organs, such
as the brains, hearts, livers and kidneys, are edible and are said
to be rich in anti-neuritic vitamin. One has to beware of
parasites. Fish form the diet of most of these animals, and are
a prolific source of tape worm, round worm and small thread
worms. Often, also, the liver contains small trematodes. Weddell
seals and sea-leopards especially seem to be infested with these
parasites ; on being cut open they have often an unpleasant toxic
smell, the Intestines swarm with worms, the heart may have small
cysts on its surface, small animalculae may be detected in the
bile which flows from the cut liver, and the spleen and lymph
glands are often enlarged, showing that the animal is suffering
from a general poisoning. Unless the party is starving, such an
animal should naturally be rejected in toto, although the meat
may appear to be sound.
The crab-eater seals, which live largely on small crustaceae,
are much more healthy animals. Penguins also require careful
examination. Seabirds have a rather strong taste of oil and
fishiness, which can largely be removed by soaking them in dilute
vinegar for twenty-four hours. Young albatross and paddy
birds require no special treatment and are delicious. Fish
swarm in Antarctic and sub- Antarctic regions wherever there
is shoal water and kelp, as also round the South Atlantic
islands, where crayfish also can be obtained. Every effort
should be made to vary a diet of preserved provisions by
seizing the chance whenever possible of obtaining any of the
above.
There is much of interest in the medical side of exploration
that space forbids me to touch on, but there is one point which
is likely to concern the surgeon of a polar expedition, whose
department is an all-embracing^ one : the health and physical
364 Appendix
fitness of sledge dogs.^ Many explorers have found dogs unsatis-
factory as a means of transport. This is especially the case
with British explorers. Scott found them a failure on his first
expedition and put little trust in them on his last. Shackleton,
in his own first expedition, as a result of his experience with Scott,
used ponies in preference. Careful organization has been put into
providing and preparing for various forms of mechanical trans-
port before the expeditions concerned left England, yet Shackleton
in getting ready for the Endurance expedition is, so far as I
know, the only British explorer who seriously organized and
thoroughly prepared for an efficient service of dog transport
prior to his start. Sledges, harness, traces and, last, not
least, food and sledging rations were worked out in detail. Com-
mander Wild, who associated with him in this work, is a strong
advocate of their utility. During the expedition the dogs
were rigidly disciplined and carefully "vetted," and the results
were splendid. We were unable to attempt the cross-country
journey, yet the work of the dogs day by day was marvellous.
There was no ice too rough for them, they crossed broad leads
of water at high speed over nothing but rubble, wherever men
could take a sledge they could take it faster, and sometimes go
where men could not. They required no tents or sleeping-bags —
only a minimum of one pound of good food per day.
Dogs are living organisms, like men, and require treatment
as such. Their characters must be studied and their health looked
after. To begin with, like men, they must be physically fit, they
must be kept fit, their coats brushed and combed, their skin
and paws kept in good order, they must be freed from parasites,
and their fighting wounds made to heal. Like men, they must
be well disciplined and trained, and then they are fit to send out
on a sledge journey.
The sledging ration must be as carefully worked out as that
of the men with a view to calorific value and vitamin sufficiency.
Dogs are possessed of a high degree of intelligence, are hardy,
and can look after themselves. As I have said, they can take
a sledge anywhere that men can, therefore they are worth looking
after. Yet one of the most pitiable things in the history of polar
exploration is the way in which dogs have been neglected, left in
miserable condition when probably all that was required was a
dose of castor oil and a good vermifuge, made to work to the last
ounce on a totally inadequate ration, and finally driven to death.
Amongst the names of non-British explorers which stand out
are those of Sverdrup, Amundsen and Peary. They looked after
the health of their dogs, and were amply repaid for the care
expended.
» As events turned out, dogs were not used in the Qugst expedition, but the writer has
decided to include this point m his observations.
Appendix 365
During the voyage of the Quest there was little sickness. A
number of casualties occurred, most of them trivial and easily
dealt with, none producing serious results.
There was one death : Sir Ernest Shackleton. The cause was
atheroma of the coronary arteries. The condition was a long-
standing one and in my opinion was due to overstrain during a
period of debility. In his history there are many occasions when
it may have been produced. The scurvy which he developed
during the southern journey of the Discovery expedition may have
produced lasting results. It. has been stated that his collapse
caused the failure of that journey. I must make it plain that
the development of scurvy in an individual during a sledge journey
is not in any way the fault of the individual, but results from
faulty organization. Sir Ernest Shackleton has never had a single
case of scurvy, or any condition allied to it, in any party under
his charge. His condition may have been produced during his
own great pioneer journey towards the South Pole.
What is remarkable is that in such an advanced condition he
was able to carry on as he did. It shows, psychologically, a
wonderful will power and an unyielding determination to over-
come difficulties. In this respect may be noted one of the last
things which he wrote (in a final letter to Mr. Rowett) :
*' Never for me the lowered banner.
Never the lost endeavour."
In other psychological respects he was remarkable, as is seen
in the combination of a happy and apparently carefree tempera-
ment with an ability for accurate and detailed organization. As
a leader he was always ** boss." He was condemnatory of short-
coming and exacting in the service rendered by subordinates,
yet he drew from all who worked for him a deep liking and an
unfailing loyalty. His physical qualities are well known. As a
living organism he was wonderful.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Bassett-Smith. " Scurvy ; with Special Reference to Prophyllaxis in the Roya
Navy." Proc. Roy. Soc. Med. 1920, Vol. xiii (War Section).
Chick, H., and Delf, E. M. " The Antiscorbutic Value of Dry and Germinated
Seeds." Biochem. Jour., 1919, xiii, 199.
Chick, H., and Hume. " The Distribution amongst Foodstuffs ... of the Sub-
stances Required for the Prevention of (a) Beri-beri and (6) Scurvy." Trans.
Soc. Trop. Med. and Hyg. 1917, x, 141.
CouTTS. (Upon an inquiry as to dried milk, etc.). Report to the Local Govern-
ment Board, 19 18. New Series, No. 116, 31.
Hess. Scurvy Past and Present. Lippincott, 1920.
" Newer Aspects of Some Nutritional Disorders." Jour. Amer. Med. Assocn.,
March 12, 1921. Vol. 76.
LiND. Treatise on Scurvy. London, 1772.
McCarrison. " Studies in Deficiency Disease." Oxford Med. Publication, 1921.
Macklin. "A Polar Expedition." Lancet, March, 1921.
Macklin and Hussey. " Scurvy : Its Prevention on a Polar Expedition." Lancet,
Aug. 13, 1921.
Medical Research Committee. " Report on the Present State of Knowledge
Concerning Accessory Food Factors (Vitamines), 19 19."
PERSONNEL
Sir Ernest Shackleton, C.V.O. Died in South Georgia.
Frank Wild, C.B.E.
F. A. WoRSLEY. D.S.O., O.B.E.,
R.D., R.N.R.
D. G. Jeffrey, D.S.O., R.N.R.
A. J. Kerr
C. E. Smith
Commander.
Hydrographer and Sailing Mastef
Navigator.
Chief Engineer.
Second Engineer.
A. H. Macklin, O.B.E., M.C., Surgeon, and in charge of stores
M.D. and equipment.
J. A. McIlroy, M.R.C.S., L.R.C.P. Surgeon and Meteorologist.
L. D. A. HussE
Y, B.Sc.
Meteorologist and Assistant
Surgeon.
G. H. WiLKINS.
M.C.
Naturalist.
G. V. Douglas,
M.C.. M.Sc.
Geologist.
C. R. Carr, D.F.C.
Aviator.
J. W. S. Marr
Boy.
J. W. Dell
Electrician and Boatswain.
C. J. Green
Cook.
Harold Watts
Wireless Operator.
T. F. McLeod
A.B.
S. S. Young
Fireman.
G. H. Ross
Fireman.
H. J. Argles
Trimmer.
Christopher Naisbitt
Ship's Clerk.
INDEX
AARBERG, Dr., i8o, 1 86, 190
Aarberg, Mrs., 69, 180, 190, 194
Admiralty, 7, 10, 314, 344, 348
Air Ministry, 7, 13, 340, 343
Albatross, 49, 52, 83, 186-189, 190, 294,
296, 363, see also Appendix iii
Island, 186
Albuera. 66, 67, 190
Amphipods, loi
Andersen, Mr., manager, Husvik, 76
Anenkov Island, 172
Argles, H. J., 48, 49, 83, 92, 118, 139,
141, 145, 148, 186, 197, 272, 327
Ascension Island, 287, 301-309, 327
Atmospheric effects, n6, 126, 156, 290
B
Badkn-Powex,!,, Sir Robert, 170, 232
Barlas, Mr., Assistant Magistrate,
South Georgia, 67
Barrier, Great Ice, 78, 83
Bay of Biscay, 19, 341
Isles, 185
Beaufort Sea, 2
Becker, Sir Frederick, ix, 3
Begbie, Mr. Harold, viii
Biunie, Mr., Resident Magistrate, South
Georgia, 176, 196
Bird life, E^lephant Island, 335
Gough Island, 272, 337-338
St. Paul's Rocks, 329
St. Vincent, 328
at sea, 52, 83, 329. 334-335, 339
South Georgia, 330-333
Tristan da Cunha, 213, 336
Zavodovski Island, 334
Bird wood Bank, 7
Biscoe, John, voyage of, 130
Blendon Hall, wreck of, 211
Blubber as fuel, 106, 108, 137, 145, 168
Bostock, Mr., manager, Prince Olaf
Harbour, 185, 189
Bouvet Island, 6, 79, 91
Bransfield Strait, 72
Bridgland, Captain F., 17
Buenos Aires, 264
Canadian Government, 3, 4
Cape Colony, 205, 292, 345
Cape George, 349
of Good Hope, 205, 29c
I^indsay, 348
Lookout, 157, 162
Roca, 29
Valentine, 155
Wild, 156, 158, 162, 165-167
Cape hen, 52, see also Appendix iii
pigeon, 52, 83, 159, 190, see also
Appendix iii
Cape Town, 6, 13, 46, 72, 73, 75, 137,
148, 214, 216, 237, 243, 254, 256,
262-264, 271, 284, 287-294, 343
Cape Verde Islands, 3^
Carr, C. R., 14, 27, 38, 49, 50, 52, 61,
80, 82, 83, 91, 100, 105, 118, 140,
142, 148, 149, 157, 159, 167, 185,
186, 190, 197, 202, 206, 212, 231,
327
Cascaes, 29
Caves, ice, 89
Gough Island, 280, 283
Middle Island, 324
Zavodovski Island, 87, 334, 347
Challenger, 206, 321
Christmas celebrations, 50-52
367
368
Index
Clarence Island, 154, 155, 156, 317
Clark, Mr. R. S., of Endurance. 308,
331 (notes). 332 (notes). 333
Clerk Rocks. 82, 347
Clothing, 76, 358, 361
Coats I^and, 78, 314
Continental Shelf, 120
Cook, Mr. James A., x, 290, 295
Cooper Bay, 80, 82, 316, 347
Island, 346, 347
Comwallis Island, 155
Cotton, Miss Betty, 241
Crayfish, 274, 278, 280, 349, 363
Crozet Island, 6
Cumberland Bay, 60, 346
Dbception Isi^and, 91, 137, 140, 168,
182
DeU, J. W.. 14. 27. 38. 49. 54. 77. 83.
91-93, 104, 120, 132, 140, 147, 169,
178, 196, 209, 265, 287-289, 327,
343
Diatoms. loi
Diego Alvarez Island, see Gough Island
Diet, 353-357
Discovery. 14, 68, 308, 365
Dogs, sledge, 364
Dominican gull, 112, 159, see also
Appendix iii
Dougherty Island, 7
Douglas, G. v., 15, 22, 27, 38, 49, 59,
77, 80, 82, 83, 94, 100, 124, 134,
139, 142, 146, 148, 149, 157, 163,
179. 197. 206, 231, 287, 292, 304,
309. 343. 348. 351
diary, 208, 209, 210, 212, 214
geological observations, 314-318
Dredging, 149, 296
Drygalski Fiord, 82
East India Company, 205, 297, 300
Elephant Island, 81, 91, 137, 145, 153-
168, 171, 178, 183, 273, 317-318,
335. 342. 347-348. 350
Enderby Brothers, 5
I,and, 73, 314
Quadrant, 7, 292
Endurance, 3, 61, 68, 90, 99, 117, 119.
152, 155. 183, 194, 308. 350, 354,
357. 360, 364
Equipment, general, 15, 72, 76
scientific, 10-13, 34^. 343
Eriksen, 15, 27, 36, 38, 48
Euphausiae. loi, iii
Expedition, Bellingshausen's, 86
Canadian Arctic, 14, 344
Deutschland, 46, 196
German Trtmsit of Venus, 197
Imperial Trans-Antarctic, i
Mawson, 87
Shackleton, 191 4-16, 348
Shackleton-Rowett, 6
Expedition Topics, 93, 97
Fai,ki.and Isi,ands, 79, 184
Falmouth Bay, Tristan da Cunha.
beacons, 349
Foca I, see Quest
France, 37
Frost-bite, 353. 357-36o
Garrard, Mr. A. Cherry, 355, 356
The Worst Journey in the World,
355
Glaciers, Elephant Island, 158, 161,
317
South Georgia, 197, 198, 316
Zavodovski Island, 86
Glass, Corporal William, 222, 238-239.
248, 259
Gough Island, 6, 215, 265-286, 287, 291.
319-320. 337-340, 343. 348. 350.
351
Gould, Lieut. Comdr., 7
Graham Land, 72, 74,^75
Index
369
Green, C. J., 20, 24, 26, 36, 49, 51. 54.
81, 83, 97, 190, 191, 194, 197, 202,
294. 296, 302, 309
Gritviken Harbour, 59, 60, 67, 69, 76,
192. 195
Growlers, 132, 152
Hansen, Mr., manager, Leith Harbour,
67, 76, 77, 109, 172, 176, 179, 180,
182, 190, 333
Harmsworth, Mr. A. C, 5
Heard Island, 6
Hodson, Mr., of Discovery, 308
Hussey, L. D. A., 14, 23, 27, 33, 38, 40,
43. 49-52. 61, 65, 67, 69, 76, 84,
172, 178, 182, 185, 194
account of the burial of Sir B.
Shackleton, 173-177
Husvik Harbour, 76, 185
Ice, fresh water from sea, 118
pack, 79, 98-100, 102, 104, 107, 112,
118, 129-133. 136, 143. 149, 150.
152. 350
pancake, 135, 136
see also Growlers and the Pack
Icebergs, 58, 83, 85-91, 93, 96, 141, 142,
149, 152, 156, 159, 350
Ice-blink, 98, 136
Illness, prevention of, 352
Inaccessible Island, 6, 203, 205, 206,
211-213, 239, 324-325. 351
J ACOBSEN, Captain, of Professor Gruvel,
67. 74
Jacobsen, Mr., manager, Gritviken, 61,
66, 75, 80, 261
Jeffrey, D. G., 14, 23, 27, 38, 43, 48,
49. 52. 77. 82, 83, 85, 87, 103, 105,
122, 142, 146, 149, 163, 166, 178,
186, 187, 191, 196, 197, 202, 206,
209, 231, 266, 309, 343
K
Kelp, 82, 191, 209, 214, 274, 346, 348,
363
Kelvin sounding machine, 12, 84, 318,
344
Kerr, A. J., 14, 17, 28, 29, 34, 42, 47,
49, 52. 53. 55. 56. 74. 78. 83, 87,
92, 109, 122, 128, 136, 149, 151,
157, 159. 179. 194. 202, 292, 303,
308
Killer whales, 93, 102, 111-114, 125,
131, 132, 143, 146, 335
I^ARSEN Harbour, 82, 331 {note 2),
347
Least, Captain, of Woodville, 69, 174
Leith Harbour, 66, 76, 77, 80, 172, 190
Lisbon, 29, 30, 32, 78, 341
Lucas sounding machine, 12, 91, 92,
289. 344. 350
Lysaght, Mr. Gerald, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25
M
McIivROY, J. A., 14, 19, 27, 49, 52, 61,
65, 67, 80, 83, 91, 92, 95, loo, 104,
118, 126, 129, 140, 141, 149, 157,
159. 168, 170, 185, 194, 197, 201,
202, 232, 292
Macklin, A. H., x, 3, 6, 14, 23, 27, 38,
40, 45, 48, 49, 52, 61, 62, 67, 75, 80,
81, 83, 89, 91-95. 98, 103-105, 112,
118, 126, 132, 139, 140, 142, 147-
152, 157, 159, 163, 166, 167, 185,
188, 191, 194, 196, 197, 202, 204,
214, 216, 270, 284, 292, 298, 302,
303. 309
diary, 57, 64, 122, 135, 141, 145, 153
164, i86-i88, 191, 199, 275, 294-
296, 302, 304-308
medical, 352-365
Tristan da Cunha, 219-264
Macleod, T. F., 14, 19, 27, 49, 52, 77
83, 92, loo, 123, 140, 152, 163, 169,
178, 187, 194, 201, 290
370
Index
Macquarie Island, 87, 273
Madeira, 17, 19, 31, 34, 310
Manson, Captain, of Albuera, 67, 190
Marion Island, 6
Marr, J. W. S., 15, 21, 23, 30, 32,
36. 38, 49, 52, 77. 80, 81. 83. 84,
91. 118, 132, 140, 146, 150, 163,
169, 178, 186, 197, 202, 206, 212,
232, 304. 327
diary, 33, 94, 144, 207
Mason, J. C. Bee, 14, 23, 27-29, 31,
32
Middle Island, 205, 208, 210, 324, 351
Mill, Dr. H. R., viii, 3
Mollymauk, 213, 245, see also Appendix
iii
Moltke Harbour, 197
Monte Video, 67, 69, 173-177
Mooney, N. E., 15, 21, 22, 28-32
Mount Paget, 315
N
Naisbitt, C, 48, 49, 52, 77, 83, 93, 97,
98, 118, 148, 270, 278
Natural History Museum, British, 163,
314
New York, 164
Neko, floating factory, 177, 178, 182,
185, 186
New Zealand, 7, 285
Newnes, Sir George, 5
Nightingale Island, 6, 205-210, 211,
212, 322-324
Orwell, oil transport, 76, 288
Pediunker, 213, 253
Penguin Island, 286, 348
rookeries, 81, 87, 213, 274, 284
Penguins, 80, 86, 93, 102, 156, 162, 166,
295. 363
Adelie, 115, 143, 145, 148
Emperor, 108-109, iii, 124
Gen too, 81, 158, 160, 167
King, 87, 108, 334
Ringed. 81, 85, 141, 158, 334
Rockhopper, 213, 274, 284
see also Appendix iii
Personnel, 14-15, 48, 366
Perth, oil transport, 184
Petrels. 99
Antarctic. 93, iii, 112. 131. 141, 143
Giant, 83, 129, 131. 186, 187
Mother Carey's Chickens, 52, 83, 131
Snow, III, 112, 124, 143, 145
Wilson's, III
see also Appendix iii
Plant life, Ascension Island, 305
Gough Island, 268, 272, 285, 338-339
Nightingale Island. 207
St. Helena. 299. 300
South Georgia. 334
Tristan da Cunha, 213. 240, 244,
252. 320
Plymouth, 17, 293, 308
Sound, 18, 312
Ponta del Gada. 310
Portugal. 29
Positions, 20, 21. 22. 50. 79, 98, 104,
108, no, 116, 117, 120, 128, 131,
136, 141. 143. 144, 147, 288, 342,
see also Appendix v
Possession Bay. 346
Prince Olaf Harbour, 185, 188, 189,
346
Prion, see Whale bird
Professor Gruvel, 67, 74. 173
Pack, the, 73. loi, no. 113. 117, 122,
146
Paddy birds, 159, 163, 363, see also
Appendix iii
Pagoda Rock, 79, 96, 348
Palmer Archipelagc 74. 183
Queen Mary's Land. 114
Query, dog, 17, 20, 26, 62, 100, 107,
122, 143, 145, 148, 153, 196. 201,
265, 278, 284, 289
Index
371
Quest, adaptation and equipment,
8-13 ; voyage to Rio, 16-37, 42-43 ',
overhauled, 44-47 ; first visit to
South Georgia, 48-63, 72-74, 76-79 ;
pushing South, 80-98 ; in the ice,
98-144 ; beset, 145-152 ; visits
Elephant Island, 153-172 ; second
visit to South Georgia, 177-190 ;
visits Tristan da Cunha group,
199-203, 206-209, 213, 224, 231,
233. 235. 243, 252 ; Gough Island,
265-270, 279-284 ; Cape Town,
287-293 ; homeward voyage, 294-
296, 301, 308-313 ; alluded to,
vii, 314, 316, 318, 340 ^41, 351,
353. 365
Raratonga, 7
Reef, sounding for reported, 288, 349
Rio de Janeiro, 43-48, 53, 63, 77, 78,
85, 140, 182, 341, 345
" Roaring Forties," the, 179, 199, 203
Rogers, Rev. Martin, 214, 217, 227,
232, 235, 236, 243, 248, 263
Rogers, Mrs. Martin, 235-237, 243, 248
Ross, G. H., 83, 142, 197
Ross's Appearance of I^and, 91, 137,
144, 145, 350
Rowett, Mr. J. Q., viii, 3, 5, 9, 15-17,
51. 52. 57. 66, 72, 73, 77, 173, 174,
176, 177, 204, 215, 217, 287, 290,
312, 328, 340, 365
Rowett, Mrs. J. Q., ix, 51, 52, 176
Royal Bay, 197, 316, 347
Royal Geographical Society, 2
St. Hei,Ena, 287, 296-301, 327
St, Paul Rocks, 6, 38-42, 325-327, 328,
345
St. Vincent, 35 ,42, 62, 78, 287, 308, 309,
327, 328, 341
San Miguel Azores, 310, 327
Sapp, Captain, of Southern Isles, 185
Scilly Isles, 19, 30
Scotia, 267, 348
Scott, Captain, 14, 355, 364
Scurvy, 104-106, 353-357. 3^5
Sea-elephants, 81, 137, 156, 157, 159,
162-164, 186, 272, 333, 337, 363
Sea hen, see Skua
Sea-leopards, 93, H2, 125, 149, 333.
335. 363
Sea life, St. Paul Rocks, 38-42
Tristan da Cunha, 336
tropical, 36
Seal meat, 103-105, 108, 125, 363
Seal Rocks, 166
Seals, 81, 107, 111-115, 143, 295, 337,
360
Arctic and Antarctic, 125
Crab-eater, loi, 114, 124, 131, 132,
139, 145. 335. 363
Weddell, 118, 333, 363
Sea-sickness, 31, 353
Shackleton, I^ady, 8, 66, 67, 69, 173,
174, 176, 194
Shackleton, Sir B. H., vii-ix ; plans
and finance, i-io, 14-15 ; on the
Quest, 16-38, 41-43, 48-59; at Rio,
44-48 ; arrival at South Georgia,
60-63 ; death, 64-67, 365 ; arrange-
ments for burial, 67-70, 173
memorial service, 174 ; fimeral,
1 76 ; memorial cairn and grave,
192-195 ; alluded to, 71-79, 88,
105, 155, 156, 171, 183, 188, 312,
314. 342, 344. 350, 354-356, 362,
364
diary, 18-23, 58-59
South, I, 155, 333
Sharks, 38-41, 209, 295, 337
Sinclair, Captain, of Neko, 182, 183
Skua, 80, 81, 129, 159, 213, 268, 272,
see also Appendix iii
Smith, C. E., 15, 49, 83, 84, 92, 292
Snow-blindness, 353, 361-362
Sorlle, Mr., manager, Stromness Har-
bour, 183, 184
Soundings, 84, 92, 96, 104, no, 116,
117, 120, 128, 131, 141, 143, 144,
147, 171, 189, 197, 199, 214, 274,
279, 283, 286, 288, 318, 327, see
also Appendix v
372
Index
Southampton, 8, 17, 177
South Georgia, first visit, 60-63, 80-82 ;
second visit, 168-172, 178-198 ;
geology, 315-317 ; natural history,
329-334 ; hydrographic work, 345-
347 ; alluded to, 8, 57, 67, 69, 72,
73. 77. 79. 91. 94. I37. 138. 173-
176. 197. 201, 328, 342, 350
Sandwich Group, 347, 350
Shetlands, 183, 317
Trinidad Island, 6, 43, 287
Southern Isles, oil transport, 185
Southern Sky, 184
Sperry gyroscopic compass, 11, 344
Stefansson, 2, 14, 105, 357
Stoltenhofif Island, 205, 210, 212, 324
Stromness Harbour, 183-185
Surveys, 38, 87, 279, 285, 286, see also
Appendix v
Tagus, river, 29, 31
Temperatures. 52, 129, 143, 144, 145,
146, 150. 342
Terns, 131, 268, see also Appendix iii
Traill-Smith, Comdr., 18, 293
Tristan da Cunha, 6, 179, 190, 198, 199,
203-206, 213-264, 266, 274, 291,
320-322, 336. 342, 349-351
U
Uruguay, Repubwc op, 174, 194
Uruguayan Government, 173-175
Minister for Foreign Affairs, 175, 177
W
Waixis Island, 60
Water sky, 98, 107, in, 150
Watts, IT., 15, 27, 49, 66, 83, 92, 120,
140, 149, 160, 296
Weddell Sea, 72, 91, 100, 119, 142, 350
Whale birds, 52, 83, 213, see also
Appendix iii
food, 101-102
him ting, 182-183
Whales, loi, 102, 132, 171, 333, 363
" Wideawake Valley," 302-303
Wild, Frank, 55, 122, 142, 153, 200,
221. 223, 231-233, 236, 238, 295.
296, 342. 364
Wilkins, G. H., 14, 23, 27, 35, 37, 38
50. 59. 77. 87, 92, 103, 108, 115,
134, 140, 149, 157, 163, 169, 179,
186, 187, 197, 206, 207, 212, 231,
285, 292, 304, 309, 327, 330. 333,
337. 340
Wind at Gough Island, 281, 283
South Georgia, 184
Tristan da Cunha, 213, 228, 251,
see also Appendix iv
Wireless, 10. 19, 22, 66, 140, 344-345,348
Woodville, 69, 174, 175, 178, 189
Worsley, F. A., 14, 23, 27, 42, 49, 52,
54, 57, 60, 65, 76, 77, 82-85, 90-92,
94-96, 98, 103, no, 117, 120, 122,
123, 128, 131, 133, 136, 141, 143.
144, 147-149, 161, 166, 171, 172,
183, 184, 187, 189, 194, 197, 202,
204, 214, 265, 266, 288, 294, 343
Wounds, treatment of, 362
Young, S. S., 48, 49, 52, 83, 92, 163
Vttamines, 354-358, 363, 364
Volcanic appearances, 82, 86, 347
Zavodovski Island, 85-87, 318, 334,
347
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