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LIBRARY  OF  CONGRESS. 


PRESENTED     BY 

UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERIOA. 


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SKETCHES 


OF    THE 


EJLK.1-."^   HIISTOE.^^ 


OF  THE 


CITY  OF  RALEIGH, 


CENTENNIAL  ADDRESS. 

FOURTH  OF  JULY,  1876, 

BY 

/ 

HON.  kp:iMP  p.  battle, 

DET.IVKRKD  AT  THE  RKQUIOST  (IK 

THE  HC)AKI>  OF  ALOIOHMEN. 


RALFJGJI: 

THE  HALEIOH  NEWS  STEAM  JOli  JMUNT. 
1877. 


SKKTCHES 


OF     TJIE 


E^IE^Il.'^   HIISTOI^IZ" 


OF  THE 


CITY  OF  RALEIGH. 


CENTENNIAL  A  DDRESS, 

FOUETH  OF  JULY,  1876, 


TIY 


HON.  KEMP  P.  BATTLE, 

PEMVEREI)   AT  THK  RKQUEST  OK  'J'HE   i{OAH]>   OF   ALDERMEN. 


RALEIGH : 

THE  RALEIGH  NEWS  STEAM  JOB  PEINT. 
'^1877. 


V 


CORRESPONDE  NOE. 


Raleigh,  N.  C,  July  5th,  1870. 

Hon.  Kemp  P.  Battle. 

Dear  Sir: — In  behalf  of  the  Board  of  Aldermen  and  the 
citizens  of  Raleigh,  we  respectfully  ask  for  a  copy  of  your 
excellent  address  on  the  4tli  inst.  for  publication. 
Very  respectfuhy, 

J.  C.  S.  LUMSDEN, 

JouN  Armstrong, 
Wm.  E.  Anderson, 
Jos.  H.  Green, 
P.  C.  Flemming. 


Raleigh,  July  6th,  1870. 

Messrs.  J.  C.  S.  Lumsden  and  others,  Committee, 

Gentlemen  : — ^Your  comnnmication,  requesting  a  copy  of 
my  address  of  the  4th  inst.  for  publication,  is  to  hand. 
Though  the  address  was  prepared  while  I  was  under  great 
pressure  of  business  in  other  matters,  and  is  not  so  full  as 
I  could  have  wished  it,  I  herewith  send  you  a  copy  thereof, 
which  you  are  at  liberty  to  use  at  your  discretion, 
Very  respectfully, 

Kemp  P.  Battle. 


REMARKS  OF  DR.  GRISSOM. 


Mr.  Battle  was  introduced  to  the  audience  by  Dr. 
Eugene  Grissom,  Superintendent  of  the  Insane  Asylum  of 
IS'orth  Carolina,  in  the  following  language,  in  substance  : 

Mr.  President,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen  : — "We  have 
a,ssembled  here  to-day  in  obedience  to  a  solemn  recom- 
mendation of  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives 
of  the  United  States,  with  executive  approval,  and  in 
concert  with  millions  of  our  fellow-citizens,  to  celebrate 
the  Centennial  Anniversary  of  the  Declaration  of  Amer- 
ican Independence,  and  to  dedicate  a  page  of  histor}^  to 
the  progress  of  an  hundred  years — an  independence  pro- 
claimed by  the  people  and  statesmen  of  an  age  charac- 
terized by  purity,  patriotism  and  ability,  and  achieved 
iifter  a  pn)tracted  contest  in  which  the  resources  of  the 
country,  both  of  blood  and  treasure,  were  freely  otfered 
and  well  nigh  exhausted. 

Whatever  of  glory  or  of  good  attaches  to  that  event  is 
largely  shared  by  North  Carolina.  And  whatever  of 
gratification  for  the  material  prosperity  flowing  therefrom, 
to  any  part  of  the  common  countr}^  is  a  legacy  of  com- 
mon inheritance. 

I  congratulate  you  that  the  task  of  analyzing  the  his- 
tory of  this  locality  has  been  assigned  to  one  so  well 
qualified  for  its  performance,  and  so  acceptable  to  public 
approval  ;  to  one  whose  well-merited  reputation  for 
scientific  attainment,  literary  acquirement  and  profes- 
sional ability,  together  with  all  the  accomplishments  and 
graces  of  tlie  patriot,  the  gentleman,  the  scholar  and  the 


(6) 

christian,  extends  far  beyond  the  limits  of  state  linesy 
and  is  eherislied  as  the  common  pride  and  common  prop- 
erty of  the  community  in  which  he  lives,  and  the  section 
that  gave  him  birth.  Hon.  Kemp  P.  Battle,  whose  name 
a  household  word,  will  address  you.     Let  us  hear  him  r. 


MB.  BxVTTLE^S  ADDKESS. 


Fkllow-Citizens  : — I  appear  before  you,  designated  by 
the  Board  of  Aldermen  of  the  city  of  Raleigh,  in  accord- 
ance with  an  Act  of  Congress  and  the  proclamation  of  the 
President  thereupon,  to  deliver  an  address  on  the  history 
of  the  city  of  Raleigh.  The  time  allowed  me  has  been 
short,  tilt'  materials  for  the  construction  of  such  a  sketch 
are  not  easily  accessible,  and  the  difficulty  of  the  under- 
taking is  increased  by  the  destruction  of  the  records  of 
the  city  in  18G5,  when  Sherman's  army  entered  Raleigh, 
Still,  believing  that  if  I  should  refuse,  probably  the  v.'ork 
would  be  undone,  I  have,  as  far  as  other  demands  on 
my  time  which  could  not  be  omitted  or  postponed,  allow- 
ed, done  my  best  to  aid  in  perpetuating  facts  in  the 
histor}'  of  our  city  which  neitlier  we  nor  our  posterity 
siiould  allow  to  be  forgotten. 

Tne  task  is  all  tlie  more  difficult  because  it  is  demand- 
ed to  compress  these  facts  about  the  past  into  the  limits 
of  a  single  address — material  worthy  of  a  volume  into  a 
slender  pamphlet. 

It  is  within  the  spirit  of  this  (Centennial  [)eriod  to  recall 
events  long  since  passed.  I  therefore  will  not  chronicle 
recent  transactions,  within  your  own  memories.  I  will 
]iot  attempt  a  complete  history  of  our  city.  I  will  only 
endeavor  to  perpetuate  what  is  in  danger  of  passing  into 
oblivion. 

HISTORY    OF    WAKK. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  no  special  effort  is  to  be  made 
to  unfold  the  history  of  Wake  county.     I  hope  this  will 


(8) 

be  done  hereafter.  The  Centennial  of  Raleigh  has  not 
yet  arrived.     The  Centennial  of  Wake  has  passed. 

The  county  of  Wake  was  born  in  stormy  times. 

A  little  over  one  hundred  years  ago,  on  the  IGth  of  May, 
1771,  the  roar  of  cannon  in  battle  was  heard  for  the  first 
irae  in  the  forests  of  Middle  North  Carolina.  One  army, 
1,200  disciplined  troops,  "was  led  by  the  Governor  of  the 
Province,  and  under  him  were  able  officers.  On  the  other 
side  were  2,000  half-armed  men  without  experienced 
■officers,  unprovided  with  artiller\'.  In  tliis  fight  between 
Royalists  and  Regulators  the  victory  was  with  the  former, 
and  in  Hillsboro,  where  now  are  the  beautiful  grounds 
of  Mr.  Paul  Cameron,  six  of  the  leaders  met  the  fate  of 
felons  on  the  gallows.  Their  deluded  followers  were  dis- 
persed and  the  war  of  the  Regulation  was  ended.  What 
was  the  cause  of  this  fratricidal  contest? 

Of  all  forms  of  oppression  the  hardest  to  bear  patiently 
is  the  payment  of  onerous  taxes  and  other  exactions  to 
alien  officers,  to  be  expended  at  points  distant  from  the  tax 
payers,  and  for  objects  for  which  they  have  no  sympathy. 
Such  levies  in  our  Saviour's  time,  for  the  sensual  luxuries  of 
Roman  Emperors,  caused  the  names  of  tax  gatherers  (or 
publicans)  to  be  synonymous  with  robbers.  It  w^as  the  hard 
and  grinding  sheriffs  and  other  officers,  with  an  occasional 
lawyer  like  Fanning,  who  drove  so  many  from  Granville 
to  the  mountains  into  the  war  of  the  Regulation. 

I'revious  to  1770  the  county  of  Rowan  covered  nearly 
all  the  territory  west  of  the  Yadkin,  and  a  portion  east  of 
that  river.  Orange  adjoined  it  on  the  east  and  was  of 
extensive  area.  The  Regulators  were  widely  scattered 
throughout  all  this  country.  To  prevent  combinations 
among  them,  Gov.  Tryon,  who  had  great  abilities  as  a 
statesman,  procured  the  incorporation  of  four  new  oounties. 
On  the  east,  out  of  parts  of  Orange,  Johnston  and  Cumber- 
land he  erected  Wake,  and  called  it  after  the  maiden  name 
of  his  wife — "  the  Countv  of  Wake  and  Parish  of  St.  Mar- 


(0) 

garet's."  Tradition  hath  it  that  her  sister,  Miss  Estlier 
"Wake,  was  the  chief  lobhy  member  who  so  turned  the 
heads  of  our  impressible  ancestors  by  her  rare  beauty  and 
accomplishments,  that  they  voted  $100,000  out  of  tlieir 
meagre  stores  for  a  grand  Governor's  palace  at  Newbern 
— a  measure  so  unpopular  afterwards  as  to  be  one  of  the 
principle  causes  of  the  disaii'ection  to  the  government.  It 
was  a  proof  of  the  gallantry  of  our  forefathers,  even  in 
the  midst  of  war,  that  when,  in  1770,  they  expunged  trom 
the  list  of  counties  the  hated  name  of  Tryon  and  substituted 
those 4)f  Rutherford  and  Lincoln,  they  allowed  the  name 
of  the  beautiful  Miss  "Wake  to  remain. 

In  the  same  vear,  notwithstandins;  the  sriant  arm  of  Pitt 
was  no  longer  wielding  the  forces  of  England,  from  mo- 
tives of  policy,  Governor  Tryon  gave  to  the  district  through 
which  flow  the  waters  of  the  Haw  and  Deep  rivers,  as  a 
peace  offering,  the  name  of  Chatham,  with  its  county  seat  at 
Pittsborough. 

While  Tryon  thus  conciliated  one  party,  he  neglected 
not  to  pay  court  to  the  rising  sun.  He  called  one  of  the 
other  counties  created  then  after  the  Earldom  of  Guil- 
ford, of  which  the  new  prime  minister,  Lord  North,  was 
the  heir  apparent,  and  the  fourth  after  the  sliire  of  Surry 
in  England  of  which  Guilford  is  the  county  seat. 

Our  county  thus  formed,  although  honored  with  the 
name  of  the  Governor's  wife,  did  not  hesitate  to  cast  in  her 
lot  with  the  other  colonists.  At  the  Provincial  Congress 
of  20th  August,  1775,  which  took  measures  for  effectual 
resistance,  appeared  her  delegates:  Joel  Lane,  John  Ilinton, 
Theophilus  Hunter,  Michael  Rogers,  Tignal  Jones,  John 
Head  and  Thomas  Ilines,  honored  names  in  our  county, 
many  of  whose  descendants  are  among  us  now. 

But  time  does  not  allow  me  to  detail  the  part  taken  by 
the  county  of  Wake  in  the  great  struggle,  suffice  it  to  say 
that  our  county  sustained  without  faltering  the  great  cause 
of  independence,  sharing  in  the  dangers  and  privations  of 


(10) 

the  period,  rejoicing  with  her  whole  soul  in  the  final 
victory. 

A  copy  of  the  charter  of  Wake  county  may  be  found 
recorded  in  our  Clerk's  office.  It  is  signed  by  Gov.  Tryon 
at  Newbern,  May  22,  1771.  The  first  court  was  held  in 
a  log  building,  on  the  open  ground  fronting  the  residence 
of  Miss  Kate  Boylan,  on  the  4th  June  1771.  The  place 
was  then  called  Bloombury.  Probably  some  poetical 
sentimentalist  of  the  day  coined  the  name  but  the  times 
were  too  stormy  for  flowers  and  blooms  and  soon  we  find 
the  county  seat  is  called  "  Wake  Court  House,"  and  this 
so  cr>^ tinned  until  it  merged  into  "  Raleigh"  in  1794. 

But  I  mu-t  hasten  to  my  immediate  task. 

A    MIGRATORY    CAPITAL. 

The  settlement  of  North  Carolina  has  one  striking  pe- 
culiarity. In  most  of  the  States,  streams  of  emigrants 
arrived  successively  at  the  same  ports  and  flowed  into 
the  interior  along  the  same  highways.  But  the  early 
settlers  of  North  Carolina  came  into  its  limits  along  dif- 
ferent routes  and  made  divers  centres  of  colonization. 
They  spread  from  those  centres  on  the  right  hand  and  on 
the  left,  by  natural  increase  and  by  accessions  from 
abroad.  Thus  the  emigrants  from  England  eitlier  direct- 
ly from  the  mother  countiy,  or  from  Virginia,  spread 
over  the  Northeastern  or  Albemarle  section,  and  as  far 
West  as  the  upper  waters  of  the  Tar  and  the  Neuse.  Ger- 
mans and  Swiss  under  DeGraffenried  transferred  the 
]iame  of  Berne  to  tlie  town  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Neuse  and  the  Trent.  Cavaliers  iVom  England  and 
l/uguenots  from  France  swarmed  along  the  lov/er  Cape 
Fear  and  pressed  northward  along  the  Pee  Dee  and  the  tri- 
butaries of  the  Santee.  Kinsmen  of  tiie  brave  Scotch- 
Irish,  who  defended  Londonderry  with  a  heroism  unex- 
ampled for  human  endurance,  and  Lutheran  Germans, 


(11) 

who  had  fled  from  the  atrocities  of  Louis  XIV  iu  the 
Palatinate,  took  possession  of  the  larger  parts  of  the  val- 
leys of  the  Haw,  the  Yadkin  and  the  Catawba.  Flora 
McDonald  with  her  countrymen  from  the  Highlands  of 
Scotland,  heart-broken  from  Culloden,  found  new  homes 
on  the  Upper  Cape  Fear  and  the  Lumber,  and  Moravians, 
worn  out  with  persecutions  in  the  old  country,  fondly 
hoped  to  rest  in  a  home  of  Peace— a  blessed  Salem — 
among  the  hills  between  the  Yadkin  and  the  Dan. 

Hence,  North  Carolina,  wathin  whose  borders  are 
representatives  of  the  Teuton  and  the  Celt,  the  Anglo- 
Norman  and  the  Frank,  the  Scandinavian  and  the  Cym- 
ric— Cavalier  and  Roundhead,  Episcopalians  and  Pres- 
byterians, Catholics  and  Huguenots,  Lutherans,  Mora- 
vians, Quakers,  Protestants  of  every  denomination,  and 
those  who,  like  Gallio,  care  for  none  of  these  things,  has 
never  been  a  homogeneous  State.  All  great  enterprises 
have  been  accomplished,  and  can  only  be  accomplished, 
by  conciliation  and  compromise — from  overturning  a 
government  to  building  a  railroad,  from  founding  a  State 
to  the  location  of  its  capital. 

The  places  of  meeting  of  the  General  Assembly,  and 
of  the  officers  of  the  executive  branches  of  the  govern- 
ment, were  always  in  early  times  chosen  by  the  operation 
of  these  principles. 

Under  the  Proprietary  government  which  lasted  until 
1731,  and  then  under  the  Colonial  government  which 
lasted  until  the  flight  of  Governor  Martin  in  1775,  the 
place  of  assembling  of  the  Legislatures  depended  chiefly 
on  the  will  of  the  Governor.  The  town  of  Governor  Eden, 
which  looks  on  the  tranquil  waters  of  Albemarle,  New- 
bern,  set  like  an  emerald  between  the  Neuse  and  the 
Trent,  Wilmington,  so  named  from  the  Earl  of  Wilming- 
ton, Secretary  of  the  colonies,  the  home  of  a  refined, 
chivalric  and  hospitable  people,  destined  to  be  leaders  in 
the    fierce   struggles  which    were  to   follow,  were    most 


12) 

favored  by  the  court  favorities,  fresh  from  the  old  world, 
who  liked  not  the  rough  life  of  the  interior  wilderness. 

After  the  expulsion  of  the  Royal  Governor,  and  the  new- 
born State  had  started  on  its  own  career,  the  Legislatures, 
whether  called  Congress  or  Committee  of  Safety  or  Gen- 
eral Assembly,  for  long  time  convened  at  their  own  will 
at  different  points,  sometimes  during  the  war  to  avoid 
danger  from  the  enemy,  butoftener  like  our  Church  Con' 
ventioKS  for  reasons  of  convenience  and  mutual  accom- 
modation. "We  find  Newbern,  Kinston,  Halifax,  Smith- 
field,  Wake  Court  House,  Hillsboro,  Salem,  Fayetteville, 
Tarboro,  all  honored,  some  of  them  several  times,  with 
being  for  a  few  weeks  the  seat  of  government.  To  this 
pernicious  practice  we  owe  it  that  so  man}-  valuable 
documents  have  been  lost  or  are  so  arranged  that  they 
cannot  be  made  useful  without  great  expenditure  of 
labor  and  time. 

How  could  public  business  be  intelligently  transacted 
when  the  officers  of  the  State  were  located  as  they  were 
before  tlie  birth  of  Raleigh  ?  Take  for  example  1789, 
when  Martin,  of  Guilford,  was  Governor  ;  James  Glasgow, 
of  Greene,  was  Secretary  of  State ;  John  Haywood,  of 
Edgecombe,  was  Treasurer  ;  John  Craven,  of  Halifax,  was 
Gomptroller,  and  James  Iredell,  of  Chowan,  was  Attorney 
•General — all  the  chief  ofiScers  of  the  State  residing  in 
different  counties  hundreds  of  miles  apart. 

One,  who  at  this  day,  holding  an  account  against  the 
State,  grumbles  because  he  cannot  get  his  money  in  an 
liour  after  its  presentation  should  note  the  trials  of  a 
claimant  in  what  the  venerable  James  T.  Morehead  called 
the  "  chaotic  times." 

The  evil  became  insupportable,  and  notwithstanding 
the  jealousies  of  conflicting  sections,  the  General  Assem- 
bly of  1787,  in  providing  for  calling  a  Convention  to  con- 
sider the  adoption  of  the  Constitution  of  the  United 
States,  recommended  the  people  of  the  State  to  instruct 


(13) 

their   representatives   to  "  fix  on  the  place  for  the   un- 
alterable seat  of  government." 

This  convention  met  in  1788  at  Hillsboro.  After  re- 
fusing to  adopt  the  new  Constitution  by  one  hundred 
majority,  they  proceeded  to  carry  out  the  instructions  of 
the  people  in  regard  to  the  seat  of  Government. 

After  debate  it  was  determined  to  select  by  ballot  some- 
point  in  the  State,  and  leave  it  to  the  General  Assembly 
to  designate  the  exact  spot  within  ten  miles  thereof. 

The  plantation  of  Isaac  Hunter  was  on  the  North  side- 
of  Crabtree,  on  the  great  road  between  the  North  and  the- 
interior  of  South  Carolina  and  Georgia.  His  residence, 
at  the  fork  of  the  Louisburg  and  Forestville  roads,  was  a 
notable  country  tavern  in  those  days.  After  balloting  be- 
tween several  competitors,  this  was  chosen  as  the  centre- 
of  the  ten  mile  circle  within  which  the  sovereignty  of" 
North  Carolina  was  to  find  a  local  habitation. 

The  mandate  of  the  Convention  the  General  Assembly 
was  in  no  haste  to  obey.  Fayetteville,  and  the  friends- 
of  that  old  town,  having  their  due  share  of  Scotch  te- 
nacity,  and  using  no  doubt  the  blandishments  of  social 
life,  succeeded  in  deferring  the  execution  of  the  scheme- 
In  1790  the  vote  was  so  close  that  the  proposal  was  tied 
in  both  Houses,  the  speaker  of  the  House  of  Commons,  an- 
eastern  man,  Stephen  Cabarrus,  of  Chowan,  voting  in- 
favor,  but  the  speaker  of  the  Senate,  a  western  man,  Gen. 
Lenoir,  of  Wilkes,  killing  the  measure. 

The  General  Assembly  of  the  following  year,  1791,  con- 
vened atNewbern,  out  of  reach  of  the  plucky  *'  Macs,"  of 
the  Cape  Fear,  and  at  this  session  the  ordinance  of  178S 
was  carried  into  effect.  Ten  commissioners  were  appoint- 
ed to  locate  and  lay  off  the  city  in  accordance  with  the 
ordinance.  At  the  same  time  five  commissioners  were  ap- 
pointed to  erect  a  State  House. 


(14) 


THE  LOCATION  AT   WAKE  COURT  HOUSE. 

The  day  of  meeting  of  the  Commissioners  was  the  4th 
of  April,  1792.  Only  six  attended.  Their  names  were, 
Frederick  Hargett,  Senator  from  Jones;  Willie  Jones, 
member  from  Halifax ;  Joseph  McDowell,  Senator  from 
Burke,  one  of  the  gallant  mountaineers  who  gained  the 
battle  of  King's  Mountain  ;  Thomas  Blount,  member  from 
Edgecombe,  afterwards  to  be  promoted  to  a  seat  in  the 
House  of  Kepresentatives  of  the  Union ;  William  John- 
ston Dawson,  member  from  Bertie,  grandson  of  Gov. 
Gabriel  Johnston,  soon  to  be  a  member  of  Congress,  and 
James  Martin,  member  from  Stokes,  who,. as  an  officer  of 
militia,  had  marched  against  the  Cherokees  in.  1776, 
and  against  Cornwallis  in  1782.  They  were  among  the 
best  men  of  the  State.  Jones  was  the  most  active  and  in- 
fluential, had  been  dn  ardent  patriot  of  the  Revolution. 
His  body  lies,  without  a  stone  to  commemorate  him,  in 
the  North  East  corner  of  the  land  he  aided  to  buy,  in  the 
garden  of  the  St.  Augustine  Normal  School. 

The  plantation  of  Joel  Lane,  adjoining  Wake  Court 
House,  was  so  plainly  the  best  place  within  the  limits 
assigned  that  the  Commissioners  hesitated  but  little  and 
on  the  following  day,  April  5th,  1792,  a  deed  was  execut- 
ed by  Lane  to  Alexander  Martin,  Governor,  for  the  use 
of  the  State,  of  one  thousand  acres  of  land  of  an  irregular 
shape,  about  one  mile,  three  hundred  yards  from  north 
to  south  and. still  more  from  east  to  west.  The  tract  thus 
purchased  was  tiien  mostly  in  forest.  The  oak  trees  still 
standing,  as  well  as  tradition,  show  that  nearly  all  east  of 
Salisbury  street  was  in  original  growth.  Where  the  State 
House  rears  its  lofty  dome  was  a  noted  "stand  "  by  which 
a  deer  running  from  the  dense  forests  of  the  Crabtree  to 
the  dense  forests  of  Walnut  was  sure  to  pass.  The  "  old 
field  pines,"  a  few  years  ago  standing  on  Gallows  Hill  and 


(15) 

the  Rex  Hospital  land  and  in  the  North  West  Reservation 
showthatthey  were  oncecult.vated  fields,  whiletheravines 
opening  into  Pigeon  House  and  Rocky  Branches,  starting 
from  the  water-shed  of  the  Capitol  Square,  were  for  some 
time  covered  with  beech  and  poplar  of  large  growth. 
The  giant  trees  which  have  given  us  the  name  of  City  of 
Oaks,  are  remnants  of  the  forest  which  sheltered  the 
venerable  men  who,  eighty-four  years  ago,  chose  tlieSeat 
of  Government  of  North  Carolina. 

The  site  is  certainly  most  favorably  situated.  The  rail 
of  the  Raleigh  &  Gaston  Rail  Road  is  303  feet  above  the 
sea  level.  The  surface  of  the  ground  at  the  West  door 
of  the  State  House  is  42  feet  higher,  so  that  the  highest 
point  of  Union  Square  is  345  feet  above  the  Atlantic, 
The  latitude  of  the  capital  is  35°  17'  N.  Tiie  longitude 
7S°  41'  West  from  Greenwich.  Its  isothermal  line  (line 
of  equal  temperatures)  enters  Europe  a  little  North  of 
Lisbon,  passes  through  Madrid,  near  by  Genoa  and 
Floreu'ie,  leaves  Europe  not  far  from  Constantinople, 
y)asses  near  the  spot  designated  by  tradition  as  the  Gar- 
den of  Eden,  then  tiH'ongh  Cliina  ami  Southern  Japan 
hard  by  Shanghai  and  Yeddo,  and  strikes  the  American 
continent  South  of  San  Francisco.  Its  climate  is  there- 
fore the  climate  of  the  grape  and  the  fig,  of  cotton  and 
tobacco,  of  corn  and  wheat.  Its  compromise  character  is 
apparent  in  many  lespects.  Its  average  temperature  for 
the  year  is  69°  1'.  Farenheit.  That  of  the  whole  State  is 
59°.  lis  spring  temperature  is  58°,  its  summer  78°,  its 
autumn  60°,  its  winter  40°.  The  State  is  a  little  le.ss  in 
each  of  these  seasons.  Its  rainfall  is  48.2  inches  ;  that  of 
the  State,  including  the  mountains  and  sea  coast, 
is  53.1  inches.  It  is  near  the  centre  of  the  central  county. 
It  is  near  the  line  between  the  lands  which  grow  cotton 
and  the  lands  which  grow  tobacco.  The  census  tables 
show  that  on  a  single  acre  in  lialeigh  can  be  grown,  and 
profitably  grown,  not  only  every  product  of  North  Caro- 


(16) 

lina,  but  of  the  United  States,    with   the   exception  of 
oranses  and  sugar  cane. 

PLAN  OF  THE  NEW  CITY. 

The  commissioners  lost  no  time  in  carrying  out  the  other 
branch  of  their  duties.  They  proceeded  to  lay  out  a  plan 
for  a  city,  to  comprise,  besides  streets,  276  lots  of  one  acre 
each,  the  whole  making  four  hundred  acres,  I  am  inclined 
to  think  that  the  true  acre  (208.67  feet  square)  was  adopted 
and  the  faihire  to  follow  this  and  the  practice  of  using  the 
conventional  acre  (210  feet  square)  are  the  causes  of  the  dis- 
putes about  boundaries  and  encroachments  on  streets. 

Besides  Union  Square,  which  the  old  maps  call  516  feet 
square,  four  other  squares  of  four  acres  each  were  left  for 
the  use  of  the  public.  Reservations  at  each  corner  of  the' 
city  were  left  open,  not  included  in  the  city,  so  as  to  pro- 
vide for  a  future  extension  of  the  corporate  limits. 

Four  streets  radiate  at  right  angles  from  Union  Square 
99  feet  wide,  viz :  to  thelSrorth,  Halifax  ;  to  the  East,  New- 
hern  ;  to  the  South,  Fayetteville  ;  to  the  West,  Ilillsboro; 
all  the  others  being  66  feet  wide.  It  must  not  be  supposed 
that  these  names  were  given  in  order  to  express  ideas  of 
superiority  of  those  towns.  The  roads  from  Wake<Cou]'t 
House  in  the  directions  of  these  streets  were  similarh'  c:'.-'!  • 
ed  before  the  estal>lishment  of  Kaieigli.  Tlie  streets  adjoin- 
ing Union  Square  on  each  side  were  laid  out  through  the 
length  and  breadth  of  the  cit3^  Tliey  were  honored  with 
the  names  of  leading  towns  in  the  State,  two  east  and  two- 
west.  Running  north  and  south  we  have  Wilmington  on 
the  east  and  SaUsbury  on  the  west ;  running  east  and  west 
we  have  Edenton  on  the  north  and  Morgan  on  the  south. 
In  those  days  the  name  of  the  beautiful  county  scat  of 
Burke  being  written  Morgan  Town,  the  selection  of  this 
name  in  preference  to  other  western  towns  was  doubtless 
in  compliment  to  Gen.  McDowell. 


(17) 

The  other  north  aud  south  streets  to  the  east  were 
Blount,  Person,  Bloodworth  and  East.  To  the  west  were 
McDowell,  Dawson,  Harrington  and  West. 

The  other  east  and  west  streets  to  the  north  were  Jones, 
Laue  and  North,  and  to  the  south,  llargctt,  Martin,  Davie, 
Cabarrus,  Lenoir  and  South. 

The  cit}'  of  Raleigh  was  named  after  the  great  historian, 
soldier  and  statesman,  whose  energies  were  so  long  directed 
to  the  settlement  of  North  Carolina.  The  appellation  of 
"  city  "  was  given  because  it  was  to  be  the  home  of  the 
sovereignty  of  the  State,  derived  from  Civitas. 

I  have  told  you  whollargett,  Jones,  McDowell, Blount,. 
Dawson  and  Martin  were.  Of  the  others.  Person  street 
commemorates  Gen.  Thos.  Person,  long  a  member  of  the 
Legislature  from  Granville,  wlio  was  one  of  the  first 
Brigadier  Generals  of  the  Revolution  ;  was  an  ardent 
patriot,  a  liberal  benefactor  of  the  University.  Ileenjuyw 
the  triple  honor  of  giving  his  name  to  a  Hall  at  Chapel 
Hill,  a  street  in  Raleigh  and  to  a  gallant  little  county 
carved  out  of  Granville. 

Timothy  Bloodwoitli  is  a  striking  example  of  the 
ephemeral  nature  of  political  fame.  He  was  a  very  \)V(t- 
minent  man  in  his  day  ;  was  member  of  the  Legishiturc 
from  New  Ilanover,  Sj)eaker  of  the  Senate,  and  attained 
the  high  dignil}^  of  Senator  in  Congress.  He  is  said 
to  have  lost  a  portion  of  Ids  popularity  in  consequence 
of  giving  the  casting  vote  in.  favor  of  Raleigh,  aufS 
fairly  earned  the  honor  of  l>eing  handed  down  to  posterity 
in  connection  with  one  of  its  streets. 

Davie  street  commemorates  one  of  thu  most  accom- 
plished men  of  the  day,  Wm.  Richardson  Davie,  after 
whom  the  county  of  Davie  is  called,  a  gallant  oflicer  iu 
the  Revolution,  member  of  Congress,  Ambassador  near 
the  Court  of  Napoleon,  one  of  the  founders  of  tlie  Univer- 
sity, and  a  true  friend  of  the  education  of  the  })eople. 
(Cabarrus  street  commemorates  Stephen  Cabarru'^,  after 


(18) 

whom  a  flonrishins^  county  is  also  named  ;  was  often 
Speaker  of  the  House,  was  member  of  the  Legislature  from 
Ohowan,  a  genial  and  popular  man. 

Gen.  Wm.  Lenoir  was  a  .distinguished  soldier  of  the 
Revolution  ;  was  senator  for  many  years  from  AVilkesand 
was  Speaker  of  the  Senate.  He  likewise  gave  a  name  to 
a  county  in  the  Enst  and  to  a  town  in  the  AVest,  as  well 
as  to  a  street  of  Raleigh. 

Lane  street  was  after  Joel  Lane  from  whom  the  land 
was  bought. 

The  four  squares  of  the  city  are  named  in  honor  of 
distirjguished  men  of  the  Revolutionary  period.  Caswell 
Square,  as  well  as  Caswell  county,  hands  down  the  name 
of  the  great  General  and  Governor,  Richard  Caswell,  of 
Lenoir;  Moore  Square,  of  Alfred  Moore,  who,  after  emin- 
ent services  for  Korth  Carolina,  was  appointed  a  Judge  of 
the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States  ;  ISTash  Square,  of 
Abner  Nash,  and  Burke  Square,  of  Thomas  Burke,  both 
Governors  and  eminent  statesmen  of  Revolutionary  times. 
The  plan  thus  laid  off  was  reported  to  the  General  As- 
sembly of  1792,  and  adopted.  The  language  of  the  act 
should  be  carefully  noted  as  Ijeing  of  imjiortance  to  the 
inhabitants  of  the  city. 

"  The  plan  of  the  city  so  laid  off  and  reported  to  the 
General  Assembly  by  the  Commissioners  aforesaid,  shall 
be  and  the  same  is  hereby  received,  confirmed  and  ratified 
by  the  name  of  the  City  of  Raleigh  ;  and  the  several 
streets  represented  in  the  plan,  and  the  public  square, 
whereon  the  State-house  is  to  be  built,  shall  be  called  and 
forever  known  by  the  names  given  to  them  respectively 
by  the  Commissioners  aforesaid  ;  which  plan,  together 
with  the  deed  for  the  land  purchased,  with  a  plat  thereof 
annexed,  shall  be  forthwith  recorded  in  the  Secretary's 
office." 

Section  3.  "The  public  square  composed  of  Nos.  246, 


(19) 

247,  262,  203,  shall  be  called   and  known  by  the   name 
of  Casvs^ell  Square,"  &c,  &q. 

And  lots  were  sold  by  order  of  the  Legislature  fronting 
on  these  squares. 

Proposals  have  been  made  in  the  CJeneral  Assembly  to 
sell  to  the  highest  bidder  the  public  squares  of  the  city, 
except  that  on  which  the  State  House  and  the  Deaf  and 
Dumb  Asylum  are  situate.  I  contend  that  according  to  ' 
plain  principles  of  law,  those  who  have  purchased  lands 
in  the  city,  and  especially  those  loho  purchased  lots  on  the 
MCjiuares^  have  legal  right  to  prevent  such  sale  and  insist 
that  according  to  the  pledge  of  the  State  they  shall  be 
perpetually  "  Public  Squares." 

The  streets  of  the  city  of  Raleigh  are  under  the  pro- 
tection of  the  law.  The  city  authorities^  may  and 
shall  improve  them,  but  they  cannot  enclose  or  discon- 
tinue them. 

The  same  rules  of  law  do  not  apply  to  the  reservations 
in  the  corners  of  the  city,  but  it  is  important  that  the 
city  authorities  shall  as  soon  as  practicable  carry  out  the 
provisions  of  chapter  205  of  the  Acts  of  1871-72,  so  as  to 
found  by  enclosing  and  improving  a  valid  claim  for  se- 
.curing  the  Nash  and  Moore  squares  as  valuable  breath- 
ing places  of  the  citv. 

At  the  session  of  the  General  Assembly  of  ]Sr)C>-'o7,  the 
corporate  limits  were  extended  one-fourth  of  a  mile  each 
way.  This  was  resisted  in  the  Courts  by  persons  livii.g 
in  the  included  portion,  but  the  Supreme  Court  sustain- 
ed the  action  of  the  Legislature.  Within  this  new  part  of 
the  city,  other  streets  have  been  laid  out:  East  of  the 
the  Capitol,  running  nortii  and  south,  Swain  street 
named  after  the  distinguished  ex-Governor  and  President 
of  the  University,  David  L.  Swain  ;  Linden  Avenue,  a 
fancy  name,  west  of  the  Capitol  ;  Boylan  street,  after  the 
late  Wra.  Boylan,  who  was  in  the  beginning  of  the  cen- 
tury  editor   of  the    M/uerva,  the   rival   of  the  I^rt/istcr, 


(20) 

and  was  for  over  sixty  years  one  of  our  most  enterprising: 
citizens  ;  Saunders  street,  after  the  late  eminent  ex-Judge 
Romulus  M.  Saunders,  once  minister  to  Spain.  Then 
north  of  the  Capitol,  running  east  and  west,  is  Peace 
street,  after  AYm.  Peace,  in  old  times  a  leading  merchant^ 
the  founder  of  Peace  Institute,  one  of  the  best  of  our 
men;  Johnson  street,  after  our  worthy  fellow-citizen,. 
Albert  Johnson  ;  Polk  street,  after  Col.  Wm.  Polk,  who' 
will  be  more  particularly  mentioned.  And  south  of  the- 
Capitol  are  Smithfield  street,  after  the  town  of  Smith- 
field  ;  Cannon  street,  after  Robert  Cannon,  once  a  lead-^ 
ing  citizen  ;  and  Manly  street,  after  our  late  distinguished 
ex-Governor  Charles  Manly. 

SALES    OF    LOTS. 

The  same  Commissioners  who  laid  out  the  city  made'- 
sales  of  the  lots.  I  cannot  find  their  reports  to  the  Leg- 
islature, and  the  Registry  books  of  that  period  have  been! 
burnt,  but  I  can  state  some  of  the  early  subsequent  sales^ 
which  are  a  measure  of  the  value  of  property  in  that  day- 

In  1801  one  quarter  of  an  acre  of  No.  160,  on  Fayette- 
ville  street,  above  Ilargett,  sold  for  S(>0.  It  is  worth  now 
$12,000  to  $15,000. 

In  1801  W.  &  J.  Peace  bought  a  lot  nearly  opposite  the- 
above,  on  Fayetteville  street,  above  Ilargett,  part  of  No.. 
147,  fronting  21  feet  and  running  back  60,  for  $165. 

In  1797  W.  J.  Humphries  sold  to  Matthew  Machlim 
the  west  half  of  No.  173,  on  Newbern  avenue  where  .J.  J.- 
Litchford  lives,  for  $30,  which  was  probably  what  wasi 
paid  for  it. 

Dr.  R.  P.  Haywood  tells  me  that  it  appears  from  the- 
account  books  of  Joel  Lane  that  he  advanced  for  afriendi 
$79,  to  pay  for  No.  216,  now  the  residence  of  W".  J.  Hicks.- 

Mr.  David  Royster,  in  1802,  bought  of  Oliver  Fitts,  of 
Warren,  two  acres  Nos.   142  and  143,  on   Moore  square,.. 


(21) 

where  David  L.  Royster  now  lives,  for  .S]00  and  a  break- 
fast table. 

On  the  east  of  Moore  square  Mr.  Roj'ster,  about  the 
same  time,  bought  two  acres  for  $50 — afterwards  sold  one 
for  $40,  and  was  considered  to  have  ]nade  a  great  specu- 
lation. 

On  October  10,  1801,  J.  Harvey  sold  to  Stephen  Hay- 
wood the  two  acres  where  Mr.  Wni.  Dallas  Haywood 
lives,  for  "$120  in  silver  dollars,"  or  $60  per  acre. 

In  1801  Nat.  Jones  sells  to  Dugald  McKeethan  No.  27(), 
fitN.  "NV.  corner  of  North  and  Lane  streets  for  $51. 

Many  of  the  first  sold  lots  were  purchased  b}'  those  who 
•did  not  intend  to  make  Raleigh  their  home.  Some  of 
the  leading  politicians  of  the  day  were  purchasers — such 
^s  Bloodworth,  Ashe,  Davie,  Hawkins,  Dawson  and  Lane 
— who  bought  on  speculation  and  lost  mone}'  on  the  re- 
sale. 

Four  acres  owned  by  the  wealthy  descendants  of  Tho^'. 
D.  Bennehan  are  the  only  instances  of  continuous  owner- 
ship in  any  family  from  the  beginning,  and  Mr.  Benne- 
ham  was  a  resident  of  Orange. 

The  foregoing  sales  are  mentioned  because  they  atlbrd 
standards  of  comparison  as  to  the  general  rise  of  values, 
the  prices  now  being  from  fifty  to  seventy  and  eighty 
times  as  high  as  at  the  dates  mentioned.  Near  the  busi- 
ness centre,  however,  lots  have  been  sold  at  the  rate  of 
nearly  $200,000  to  the  acre,  or  five  and  six  thousand 
times  the  original  cost. 

SALKS  OK  ]8!3. 

In  1813  the  General  Assembly  appointed  Ilenr}'  Potter, 
Henry  Seawell,  Wm.  Hinton,  Nathaniel  Jones,  (Crabtree) 
Theophilus  Hunter,  and  Wm.  Peace,  to  sell  the  lands  of 
the  State  south,  west  and  north  of  the  old  corporate  limits. 
The  first  named  had  been  a  Citv  Commissioner.     He  was 


(22) 

Judire  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  about 
sixty  years.  Henry  Seawell  was  a  member  of  the  Legis-^ 
lature  from  "Wake,  elected  at  that  time  Judge  of  the  Su- 
perior Court,  an  able  lawyer.  Wm.  Ilinton  was  repeated- 
ly Senator  from  Wake.  Nathaniel  Jones,  father  of  the 
late  Kimbrough  Jones,  called  of  "Crabtree"  to  distin- 
guish him  from  Nathaniel  Jones  of"  White  Plains,"  near 
Cary,  the  ancestor  of  the  late  Wesley  and  Alfred  Jones, 
had  been  often  Senator  and  member  of  the  House  from 
Wake.  Theophilus  Hunter  was  the  respected  and  hospita- 
ble owner  of  "Spring  Hill,"  which  adjoins  Raleigh  on 
the  west.     Wm.  Peace  has  already  been  described. 

The  commissioners  were  ordered  to  reserve  lots  around 
the  different  springs  in  the  State  lands,  and  on  this  ac- 
count it  is  that  Rex  Spring  on  the  north,  and  the  springs 
near  the  Governor's  Mansion  and  the  colored  Deaf  and 
Dumb  Asylum,  are  public  property. 

It  was  at  this  sale  that  John  Rex  bought  the  land  de- 
vised by  him  to  provide  a  comfortable  retreat  for  the  rich 
and  the  afflicted  poor.  The  money  bequeathed  by  him 
for  the  same  purpose  had  accumulated  to  over  $20,000, 
when  by  the  contingencies  of  the  late  war  a  great  part  of 
it  was  lost.  The  object  is  a  noble  one,  and  the  name  of 
John  Rex,  the  tanner,  should  be  honored  among  us. 

The  proceeds  of  the  sale  of  1813  were  devoted  to  the 
erection  of  what  is  by  a  kind  of  grim  joke  called  "the 
Governor's  Palace."  Before  that  time  the  acre  where  the 
Raleigh  National  Bank  is  located,  No.  131,  having  on  it 
a  two-story  house  of  wood,  which  was  removed  about 
1859,  was  the  Executive  Mansion.  Governor  Miller,  of 
Warren,  was  the  first  occupant  of  the  new  mansion.  It 
has  been  the  scene  of  many  gay  festivities.  In  the  good 
old  days  it  was  the  custom  for  the  governors  to  give  fre- 
quent entertainments.  The  members  of  the  Legislature 
and  officers  of  State,  and  all  decent  people  of  the  city,  as 
well  as  strangers,  were  generally  invited  to  attend.     The 


annual  "  i)artie.s  "  of  the  Governor   wcie  looked  forward 
to  and  enjoyed  by  young  and  old. 

The  '••  Palace  "  continued  to  be  occuttied  by  the  Execu- 
tive until  April,  18(15,  when  Governor  \'ance  yielded  the 
occupancy  to  Gen.  Sherman,  who  took  possession  of  it  as 
his  headquarters.  Alter  the  officers  of  the  army  left  it 
in  18(38,  Governor  lEolden  declinina-  to  leave  his  own 
handsome  residence,  and  Governors  Caldwell  and  Brog- 
den  preferring  hotel  life,  it  was  for  several  years  rented 
to  the  highest  bidder.  It  is  now  used  for  a  flourishing 
graded  school,  undo-  th(>  superintendency  of  Mr.  .].  E. 
Dugger. 

SALE  OF  1810. 

In  1819  the  lands  of  the  State  east  of  the  city,  except 
the  llock  (Quarry,  wei'e  ordered  to  be  sold,  the  commis- 
sioners being  Duncan  Cameron,  .John  Winslow,  Joseph 
Gales,  Wm.  Robards  and  Henry  Potter.  Of  these  Dun- 
can Catneron  for  many  years  was  one  of  the  most  trusted 
men,  not  alone  of  Raleigh,  but  of  North  Carolina,  lie 
was  an  eminent  lawyer,  a  Judge  of  the  Superior  Courts, 
Senator  and  Member  of  the  House  from  Orange,  from 
1829  to  1849  President  of  the  leading  'oanks  in  theState, 
and  was  considered  of  highest  authority  in  the  State  on 
matters  of  hnances.  .John  A\'inslow  was  member  of  the 
House  from  the  borough  of  Fayetteville.  Josej.h  Gales 
was  Intendant  of  Police  of  Raleigh  for  over  twenty  years, 
was  an  able  editor,  the  founder  of  the  JlaleUfh  licf/isfrr 
which  was  a  leading  paper  of  the  State  for  fift}'  years,  the 
father  of  the  distinguished  editor,  Joseph  Gales,  of  the 
National  Intelligencer^  in  Washington,  and  of  Western  R. 
Gales,  his  successor  as  editor  of  the  Rccjisicr.  Mr.  Robards 
was  of  C!ranville,  an  excellesit  man,  Treasurer  of  the 
State.     Henry  Potter  has  been  mentioned. 

The  proceeds  of  tlie  sale  were  applied  to  repairing  and 


(24) 

enclosing  the  State  House,  which  was  well  done  under 
the  supervision  of  an  able  architect,  AV^m.  Nichols. 

This  was  the  last  sale  of  the  lands  of  the  State. 

The  sales  of  1813  were  low  according  to  our  standard. 
For  example,  John  Rex  bought  the  land  given  by  him 
for  a  hospital,  $481  for  15|  acres. 

The  sales  of  1818  were  called  "very  good."  This  ap- 
plied chiefly  to  the  land  in  theN,  E.  part  of  the  city  com- 
prising thf  noble  forest  owned  by  the  late  Henry  Mor- 
decai,  which  brought  filOO  per  acre.  The  lots  along  New- 
bern  Avenue  west  of  the  old  grave3^ard  averaged  about 
$50  per  acre,  while  those  on  the  south  side  of  Hargett  op- 
posite the  old  graveyard,  commanded  from  ^40  to  $70  per 
acre  ;  the  broad  slopes  of  Vinegar  Hill  were  rated  at  about 
$50  per  acre,  and  all  this  on  a  credit  of  one,  two  and  three 
3'ears,  without  interest. 

Some  persons  of  speculative  turn  of  mind  and  im{ier- 
fect  knowledge  of  the  law  have  cast  hungry  eyes  at  the 
unoccupied  lots  belonging  to  the  State  around  the  city 
with  a  view  to  take  possesion  of  them  under  the  Enti'y 
Laws  at  I'ii-  cents  per  acre.  But  counsel  "learned  in  the 
law"  have  quickly  informed  them  that  as  the  land  had 
been  once  entered  by  and  granted  to  .Joel  Lane,  the  re- 
purchase by  the  State  did  not  restore  them  to  the  class  of 
"  vacant  and  unappropriated  lands,"  which  are  only  sub- 
ject to  entry. 

THE    EARLIEST    DAYS. 

The  growth  of  the  city  was  slow.  The  State  House, an 
ugly  pile  of  brick  and  wood,  without  porch  or  ornament 
of  any  kind,  said  to  have  been  built  by  Rhody  Atkins, 
^vas  finisiied  in  1794,  so  that  tiie  General  Assembly  met 
in  it  for  the  first  time  in  November  of  that  year.  Richard 
Dobbs  Spaiglit,  of  Craven,  met  the  Legislature  as  Gov- 
ernor, and  on  the  first  day   of  the  succeeding   .January, 


(  25  ) 

Sani'l  Ashe,  of  New  Hanover,  took  his  phxce.  Tlie  first 
settlers  were  State  ofRcers,  and  hotel  (then  called  tavern) 
keepers,  followed  of  course  by  the  "country  merchant." 

Ill  February  1705,  the  General  Assembly  appointed  as 
\I!ommissioners,  a  board  of  seven,  who  (as  would  be  said 
in  our  neighboring  town  of  Durham,)  were,  the  (jemdne 
original  "Fathers  of  the  city  ;  viz:  Jolm  Haywood,  of  Edge- 
combe, Treasurer  of  the  State  ;  John  Craven,  of  Halifax, 
Comptroller;  John  Marshall  and  James  Mares,  Hotel- 
keepers  ;  Dugold  McKethan  and  John  Pain,  whose  busi- 
ness I  cannot  discover ;  Joim  Rogers,  a  member  of  the 
Legislature  from  Wake,  not  a  resident  of  the  city.  In 
1801,  the  Legislature  added  as  Commissioners,  Joshua 
Sugg,  a  very  respectable  farmer.  Col.  AVni.  Polk,  who 
had  lately  become  a  resident,  whom  I  shall  mention 
again  more  particularly,  and  Theophilus Hunter,  Senior, 
wlio  had  served  the  State  in  Revolutionary  times. 

The  buildings,  with  the  exception  of  the  State  House, 
were  for  years  all  of  wood.  Covernor  Swain,  in  his  in- 
teresting Tucker  Hall  address,  says  that  the  Kagle  Hotel 
of  Charles  Parish,  now  the  National  Hotel,  was  the  next 
house  of  brick  built  after  the  Ccipitol.  The  old  State  Bank, 
now  the  Episcopal  Rectory,  the  Bank  of  Newbern,  now 
Dr.  F.  J.  Haywood's  dwelling,  wsre  built  in  the  following 
year. 

As  late  as  1803,  Henry  IL  Cooke  advertises  that  living 
ut  "  Wake  old  Court-PIouse,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of 
the  State-House,  he  can  accommodate  10  or  12  gentlemen 
with  board  during  the  session,  and  will  take  a  few  horses 
to  feed  at  2s.Gd.  (25  cts.)  a  day." 

But  in  r^ecember,  1803,  the  banner  of  the  "•  Indian 
Queen  "  is  thrown  out  as  the  best  stand  in  the  city,  with 
13  rooms,  0  of  which  have  fire-places  !  This  was  on  the 
site  of  the  new  Federal  Court-House  and  Post-Oftice. 

This  was  followed  by  Casso's  tavern,  in  1804,  on  the 
N.  E.  corner  of  Fayetteville  street,  next  the  State  House 


(  20  ) 

square,  Oi)e]ied  by  "  the  })ublic'y  juost  obedient  and 
humble  servant,  Peter  Casso,"  who  enhances  the  attract- 
iveness of  his  tavern  by  announcing  that  "  the  ISTorthern 
and  Southern  stages  leave  iiis  door  three  times  a  vveek.'^ 

The  hotels  (or  tavern?,  as  they  were  called.)  were  of  a 
primitive  nature. 

A  gentleman  tells  me  that  many  years  ago  he  was  at 
Cooke's  Hotel,  when  besides  himself  Chief  .Justice  Mar- 
shall and  Judge  Cameron  were  the  onl}'  guests.  A  trav- 
eler drove  up  and  asked  for  quarters.  I'he  answer  was, 
"  I  can't  take  you,  I  am  full."  The  furniture  of  Judge 
Mars!. nil's  room  consisted  of  a  l)ed  and  bedstead,  two 
split-bottom  chairs,  a  pine  table  covered  with  grease  and 
ink,  a  cracked  pitcher  and  broken  bowl.  The  next  morn- 
ing wlien  breakfast  came  on,  the  host,  disdaining  the  use 
of  forks,  transferred  from  the  d\A\  to  his  {date  pieces  of 
the  dismembered  fowl  with  his  fingers. 

TERMANENT    CPIARTER. 

The  charter  of  1795  was  superceded  by  a  permanent 
charter  granted  in  J803,  by  which  the  election  of  Intend- 
ant  and  seven  Commissioners  was  given  to  the  people. 
The  c|uali{i cation  of  such  officers  was  that  they  should 
be  seized  in  fee  of  land  in  the  city,  with  a  dwelling  house 
thereon,  and  should  be  actual  residents.  Any  free  male 
of  full  age,  resident  for  three  months,  or  owning  land  in 
the  city,  whether  a  resident  or  not,  could  vote.  The  cor- 
porate name  of  the  government  was  "The  Commission- 
ers of  the  City  of  Raleigh." 

The  public  lands  being  in  forests,  for  their  protection 
a  Ranger  was  appointed.  Tije  }  ower  of  taxation  was 
doubled,  i.  c,  raised  to  fifty  cents  on  the  ^100  value,  it 
having  been  twenty-five  cents  under  the  act  of  1795.  A 
poll  tax  as  high  as  $1  was  authorized  on  all  male  polls 
and  on  male  slaves  between  twelve  and   fifty.     Under 


(  -^7  ,) 

this  cliartei'  the  inhabitants  were  not  conipolled  to  work 
on  the  streets  in  person.  On  failnre  to  pay  the  tax  on  a 
lot  on  or  before  the  first  of  August  the  coniiiiissioners 
were  authorized  and  directed  to  sell  the  whole  lot.  It  is 
remarkable  that  no  right  of  redemption  was  allowed,  no 
saving  of  the  rights  of  infants  and  others  under  disability. 
This  seems  hard.  It  was  probably  caused  by  the  fact 
heretofore  mentioned  that  many  of  the  lots  were  bought 
on  speculation  by  those  who  would  neither  improve  nor 
allow  others  to  improve  them.  It  is  said  that  the  large 
estate  of  the  late  Dr.  Cooke  was  greatly  attributable  to 
the  purchases  b}'  his  father  and  grandfather  at  these  tax 
.sales. 

It  seems  strange,  too,  as  land  was  so  very  abundant 
and  cheaf),  the  charter  of  1804,  as  well  as  that  of  1794-95^ 
should  have  contained  stringent  regulations  in  regard  to 
encroachments  on  streets.  They  were  required  to  be  an- 
nually measured  and  entered  on  the  city  journalfj,  and  a 
tax  was  required  to  be  imposed  not  over  fifty  cents  a  foot's 
width.  These  regulations  were  propably  aimed  chiefly 
at  shop-keepers  and  tavern-keepers,  who  built  in  this 
manner  to  attract  the  attention  of  pa.ssers-by.  Most  of  the 
"stoops"'  and  cellar-doors,  which  are  an  offence  and 
stumbling  block  to  so  many  were  constructed  in  these 
ancient  days,  when  much  of  the  city  was  in  forest  and 
oak  trees  waved  their  boughs  in  our  most  populous  streets.^ 

The  charter  of  1803  did  not  divide  the  city  into  wards. 
This  was  done  in  1800,  five  commissioners  being  author- 
ized from  the  Middle  ward,  three  from  the  Eastern,  and 
one  from  the  Western,  showing  that  the  western  half  of 
the  city  was  settled  more  slowly  than  the  other.  The 
taxes  of  each  ward  were  to  be  expended  by  its  commis- 
sioners in  that  ward,  and  nowhere  else.  The  commis- 
sioner of  the  Western  ward  had  a  pleasant  office,  being  a 
full  board  all  by  himself,  so  that  he  could  in  truth  say,  as 
an  eminent  public  man  of  this  State  once  announced,  "I 


(28) 

have  convened  for  business,"  the  solitary  instance  in 
municipal  government  where  the  voting  was  always 
unanimous.  This  was  remedied  in  1809,  by  giving  three 
commissioners  to  the  Western  ward. 

A  difficulty  occurred  about  the  act  of  180G,  which 
shows  that  our  ancestors  were  troubled  about  ward  divis- 
ions, as  we  have  lately  been.  By  that  enactment,  "  all 
east  of  Wilmington  and  Halifax  streets  constituted  the 
Easterri  ward ;  all  west  of  Salisbury  and  Halifax  streets 
constituted  the  Western  ward,  and  all  the  residue  of  the 
•city  was  the  Middle  ward." 

The  following  preamble  of  an  act  of  1811  shows  at 
once  the  trouble  and  the  remedy.  It  is  a  curiosity  of 
legislation.  I  copy  it  literatim,  with  all  its  blunders. 
Note  how  evidently  its  draughtsman  was  an  ill-tempered 
and  unlearned  "  Middle  ward  man  :" 

"■  AN  ACT  TO  EXPLAIN  AND  AMEND  THE  FIRST  SECTION  OF  AN 
ACT  PASSED  IN  1806,  AS  FAR  AS  RESPECTS  THE  DIVISION 
OF  THE  CITY    OF    RALEIGH  INTO  THREE  WARDS. 

Whereas^  It  is  found  and  discovered  that  the  division 
of  the  cit}^,  as  prescribed  by  the  aforesaid  act  of  1806,  is 
unequitable,  and  the  boundaries  of  each  ward  not  so  pre- 
cisely described  as  to  prevent  disputes,  and  that  said 
division  into  wards  is  not  nor  neither  can  be  as  was  in- 
tended, viz  :  that  the  Eastern  and  Western  wards  should 
receive  all  the  taxes,  and  leave  the  main  street  North 
from  the  State  House,  called  Halifax  street,  for  the  Mid- 
■dle  ward  to  keep  in  order  ;  and  as  the  division  now  is, 
the  commissioners  of  the  Eastern  ward  do  collect  and 
receive  all  the  taxes  on  the  East  of  said  street,  leaving 
the  naked  street  for  the  Middle  ward  to  keep  in  order, 
.although  the  commissioners  of  the  Eastern  and  Western 
wards  acknowledge  there  is  no  equity  for  them  to  receive 
the  taxes  and  leave  the  naked  street  for  the  Middle  ward 


(29) 

to  keep  repaired,  and  consider  that  they  are  bound  to  act 
agreeable  to  the  law  of  ISOG;  the  commissioners  of  the 
Middle  ward  have  always  been  willing  to  act  justly,  to 
give  them  the  taxes,  and  they  will  keep  the  street  in 
repair,  &c." 

Two  3'ears  after  thin,  in  1813,  the  evil  of  having  four 
boards,  one  general  board  and  one  from  each  ward,  was 
remedied,  and  the  commissioners  reduced  to  seven,  three 
from  the  Middle  and  two  from  the  others,  were  consti- 
tated  into  one  board.  The  injunction  to  expend  the 
taxes  of  each  ward,  not  needed  for  general  purposes,  in 
the  ward  whence  they  were  raised,  was  continued  until 
1856. 

In  the  same  year  the  constable  of  the  city  was  vested 
with  the  powers  of  the  constable  of  the  county.  There 
was  only  one  constable.  Tthc  inhabitants  of  the  city  were 
compelled  to  serve  as  a  city  watch.  This  was  done  with- 
out fee  or  reward  until  1813,  the  best  citizens  generally 
in  person,  though  substitutes  were  allowed,  taking  their 
turn  in  patrolling  the  streets  at  night.  It  grew  into  a 
custom,  which  had  the  force  of  law,  that  the  captain  of 
the  guard  should  adjourn  his  men  to  a  restaurant  and 
till  them  with  Dutch  courage  to  enable  them  to  perform 
their  dangerous  duties  and  drive  away  sleep — hence  a 
glass  of  brandy  and  water  received  the  name  of  "  eye- 
opener."' 

WATER   WORKS. 

In  1815  the  question  of  supply  of  water  was  mooted,  and 
for  its  introductionfor  the  first  time  in  the  historj'  of 
the  city  a  public  debt  was  authorized.  A  dam  was 
erected  on  Rocky  Branch,  east  of  the  Insane  Asylimu 
The  working  of  a  water-wheel  forced  the  water  into  what 
was  called  a  "  AVater  Tower,"  situate  on  the  hill  cast  of  Syl- 


(30) 

vester  Smith's  house,  whence  the  unfilterecl  water  was  car- 
]-ied  by  wooden  pipes  by  force  of  gravity  to  Hargett  street, 
thence  down  Fayetteville  street.  There  were  spouts  at 
various  points  along  the  street.  The  engineer  was  an  inge- 
nious mechanic,  Sam'l  Lash,  of  Salem.  The  water  was  of 
great  convenience  to  the  citizens  of  the  Middle  ward,  but 
on  tlie  whole  the  scheme  was  a  failure.  The  pipes  became 
frequently  clogged  with  mud,  and  leaky,  sometimes  burst 
by  the  pressure,  and  there  being  no  filtration,  whenever 
there  was  rain  the  water  became  of  the  hue  of  the  "  Yellow 
Tiber."  To  crown  the  whole,  there  were  great  heart-burn- 
ings among  the  citizens  of  the  section  of  the  city  not  bene- 
fitted. Alter  a  few  vears — seven  or  eis-ht — the  oldeno-ineer 
died.  His  son,  who  succeeded  him,  took  to  intoxicating 
liquors,  and  the  more  he  drank,  the  less  freel}'  the  water 
ran.  The  water-works  failed.  The  first  money  our  city 
l)orrowed  was  buried  in  the  ground  ;  the  first  debt  incurred 
was  for  a  profitless  work.  It  was  not  until  that  genera- 
tion passed  away,  about  the  year  1845,  that  a  second  debt 
was  incurred,  for  transferring  the  new  market-house  from 
Hargett  street  to  its  present  position. 

The  year  1817  is  memorable  in  our  history  as  being  the 
time  when  the  General  Assembly  allowed  incorporated 
towns  to  lay  a  tax  on  dogs.  In  the  early  state  of  the  coun- 
try, these  canine  pests  were  useful,  but  at  present  they  are 
a  fruitful  soui'ce  of  poverty. 

The  taxation  on  dogs  in  our  city  has  always  been  un- 
equal, paid  by  a  few,  who  are  aifiicted  with  consciences, 
while  the  rest  go  scot  free.  Few  have  the  tender  regard 
for  truth  of  a  good  old  citizen  of  sixty  years  ago,  who,  in 
giving  in  liis  taxables,  stated  that  he  had  one  dog.  After 
he  had  finished,  the  list-taker  handed  him  a  Bible.  "What! 
have  I  got  to  swear  to  my  list  ?"  "  Oh,  yes,  sir  !"  "  Then," 
with  a  heavy  sigh,  '^'put  me  down  another  dog." 

The  charter  of  1803,  amended  in  important  particulars 
IVom  time  to  time,  continued  until  the  charter  of  1856, 


(31) 

which  was  drawn,  with  liis  usual  ability,  by  lion.  B.  F* 
Moore,  then  city  attorney.  By  tliis  the  name  of  the  In- 
tendcnt  of  l^ohce  was  changed  to  Mayor.  By  direction  of 
the  Commissioners  an  amended  charter  was  prepared  by 
myself  as  city  attorney  in  18(3<),  Init  the  (general  Assembly 
made  its  going  into  operation  dependent  on  a  vote  of  the 
people,  and  because  it  increased  powers  of  taxation  it  was 
defeated.  A  compilation  of  the  charter  of  185G  incorpor- 
ating subsecpient  amendments,  was  made  by  Mr.  R.  11. 
Battle,  in  18G7.  In  187G,  Fabius  II.  Busbee,  Esq.,  city 
attorney,  at  the  instance  of  the  Board  of  Aldermen,  made 
an  able  compilation  of  all  the  laws  relating  to  Raleigh,  now 
in  existence,  with  reference  to  those  which  are  obsolete 
also  all  the  ordinances  of  the  Board  now  in  operation. 

Bv  an  act  passed  by  the  Cieneral  Assembly  of  1874-'75 
the  city  is  divided  ir. to  live  wards.  This  lias  been  attack- 
ed in  the  courts  on  the  grounds  of  unconstitutionality, 
the  plaintiffs  alleging  amouir  other  things  that  the  lines 
of  the  wards  were  ran  in  order  to  give  voters  of  one  polit- 
ical part}'  more  weight  than  those  of  the  others  in  the 
government  of  the  city.  Four  wards  elect  three  Alder- 
men each,  and  one  dec's  five,  making  a  Board  of  seven- 
teen     The  matter  is  still  in   litigati(>n. 

•      CORPORATION  OFFICERS. 

It  is  creditable  to  the  public  spirit  rif  our  ])cople  that 
for  over  half  a  century  tbe  Intendants  of  Police  served 
without  compensation.  iSome  of  them,  particularly  Jos- 
eph Gales,  and  Weston  R.  Gales,  his  son,  were  conspicu- 
ous for  their  generous  hospitality,  and  the  elegant  style 
with  which  they  entertained  strangers  and  supported  the 
dignity  of  the  city.  In  1831  the  former  removed  to 
Washington  city,  but  returned  in  1830,  and  was  imme- 
diately elected  to  his  old  post,  which  he  held  until  bis 
death  in  May,  1848.     The  charter  of  tbe  city  was  amend-. 


(32) 

ed  in  January,  1843,  giving  to  the  Intendant  the  judicial 
powers  of  a  Justice  of  the  Peace,  and  autiiorizing  the  cor- 
poration to  pay  him  a  salary.  Under  this  authorit}'^  the 
commissioners  voted  the  venerable  editor  who  had  served 
the  city  so  many  years,  whose  time  and  talents  and 
means  had  been  almost  from  the  beginning  of  the  centu- 
ry expended  liberally  on  every  great  public  enterprise, 
the  paltry  salary  of  $100  per  annum,  which  he  lived 
only  a  few  months  to  enjoy. 

I  have  taken  great  pains  to  ascertain  all  the  Intend- 
ants  and  Mayors  and  Commissioners,  from  the  beginning 
of  the  city.  It  was  a  difficult  task  in  consequence  of  the 
destruction  of  the  records,  as  heretofore  mentioned,  and 
I  have  not  met  with  entire  success. 

From  the  fact  that  Treasurer  John  Haywood  was  first 
mentioned  of  the  commissioners  appointed  by  the  Legis- 
lature in  the  charter  of  1795,  I  assume  that  he  was  the 
first  Intendant.  He  was  Treasurer  of  the  State  from  1787 
to  1827,  one  of  the  most  hospitable,  kindly  and  popular 
men  who  ever  lived  in  tlie  State.  The  first  Intendant 
elected  by  the  people  was  AVm.  White,  the  highly  esteem- 
ed Secretary  of  State,  whose  excellent  wife  the  daughter 
of  Gov.  Caswell,  survived  to  our  own  times.  [  can  not. 
learn  who  held  the  office  in  1801,  but  in  1805  the  intci  - 
dant  was  Joseph  Ross.  In  1806  it  was  William  Hill,  \. '.'• 
was  clerk  in  the  office'of  the  Secretary  of  the  State,  who.~c; 
stern  integrity  and  devotion  to  duty  were  such  that  he- 
was  elected  to  the  office  of  Secretary  of  State  continuous- 
ly from  1811  until  his  death  in  1857,  nearly  half  a  cen- 
tury, amidst  all  the  mutations  of  parties. 

For  many  years  the  most  prominent  and  influential 
citizens  were  known  as  the  "  five  Williams,"  viz  :  William 
Polk,  William  Peck,  William  Boylan,  William  Peace, 
and  William  Hill,  of  whom  the  three  hitter  were  living 
when  I  began  the  practice  of  law  in  the  city  in  1854. 

After  the  Intendancy  of  Mr.  Ilill,  we  find  in  succession 


(33) 

Dr.  Calvin  Jones  in  1807,  John  Marshall  in  1810  and 
1811.  John  S.  Raboteau  in  1812,  Sterling  Yancey  in 
1813,  then  Joseph  Gales  until  1832,  then  Thomas  Cobbs, 
Weston  R.  Gales,  Wra.  C.  G.  Carrington,  Thomas  Loring. 
Mr.  Wm.  Dallas  Haywood  was  a  very  popular  Intcndant 
for  many  years,  and  so  was  his  successor  Wm.  II.  Har- 
rison. Messrs.  C.  B.  Root,  Wesley  Whitaker  and  .Joseph 
W.  Ilolden  have  of  late  years  held  the  office  for  one  or 
two  terms,  and  the  list  is  closed  by  the  present  worthy 
incumbent.  Major  Basil  C.  Manl3% 

The  list  of  Commissioners  is  most  instructive.  In  the 
earlier  days,  when  the  population  was  small,  it  shows  the 
names  of  the  founders  of  the  city,  and  in  the  large  ma- 
jority of  cases  it  contains  very  fair  representatives  of  the 
business  talent  and  integrity  of  our  people.  We  see 
among  those  gone  to  their  last  homes  Wm.  Boylan,  John 
Craven,  Charles  Parish,  William  and  Joseph  Peace, 
Henry  Potter,  Southey  Bond,  Robert  Williams,  Wm. 
Peck,  Benj.  S,  King,  Robert  Cannon,  AVesley  Whitaker, 
Richard  Smith,  Thomas  Henderson,  Sherwood  Haywood, 
Wm.  Henry  Haywood,  James  McKee,  Wm.  Shaw,  Alex. 
Lucas,  David  Royster,  Charles  Manly,  James  F.  Taylor, 
Thos.  G.  Scott,  Wm.  F.  Clarke,  Wm.  Tliompson,'Ste- 
piien  Birdsall,  Ruffin  Tucker,  Dirk  Lindeman,  Henry 
M.  Miller,  Benjamin  B.  Smith,  Beverly  Daniel,  Alex- 
ander J.  Lawrence,  F.  H.  Reeder,  E.  B.  FreemaiK 
.lohn  Christophers,  John  O'Rorke,  Wm.  Ashley,  H.  J). 
Turner, Daniel  Murray,  James  Litchford,  John  Ilutchins, 
John  Primrose,  W.  II.  McKee,  S.  W.  Whiting,  David 
W.  Stone,  A.  M.  Gorman,  Edward  Yarborough,  Silas 
Burns  and  many  others  who  enjoyed  the  confidence  and 
respect  of  their  fellow-citizens.  And  we  find  that  some 
of  our  best  elderly  men  now  living,  who  have  lost  the 
taste  for  municipal  office  life,  such  as  Dr.  F.J.Haywood, 
Jordan  Womble,  Alfred  Williams,  Sylvester  Smith,  Wm. 
W^hite,  Geo.  W.  Haywood,  and  John  J.  Christophers,  at 


(34) 

an  earlier  period  of  their  lives  consented  to  serve  the  city 
in  this  capacity,  in  which,  as  in  all  other  cities,  the  in- 
cumbents are  liable  to  abundant  and  sharp  criticism, 
with  no  possibility  of  pay,  and  little  possibility  of  praise. 
And  Mr.  Christophers  should  be  especially  remembered 
for  his  long-  and  faithful  services  as  clerk  of  the  city — 
services  only  paralleled  by  those  of  Mr.  James  IT.  Murray^ 
as  City  Constable. 

The  Intendant  of  Police  originally  was  only  what  thev 
name  implies,  viz:  a  Superintendent  of  the  Police  force,;, 
without  judicial  powers.  The  powers  of  a  Justice  of  the- 
Peace  were  conferred  in  1843.  The  name  was  changed 
to  "Mayor  "  in  1854,  and  the  name  "  Commissioners" to> 
"  Aldermen,"  in  1875. 

These  names  "Intendant  of  I'olice  "  and  "Mayor'" 
show  not  only  the  composite  nature  of  our  language,  but 
call  to  mind  interesting  liistorical  facts.  The  former  is^ 
a  French  official  name,  taken  from  French  municipal! 
government,  at  a  time  when  America  greatlyadmired  ite 
ancient  ally. 

The  word  "  Mayor,"  same  as  "'Major,"  has  a  splendid 
ancestry.  It  came  into  England  with  the  jSTormans  whc 
conquered  the  countr}'  at  Hastings  s©ve«- hundred  years; 
ago,  and  the  Xormans  got  it  from  the  majestic  Romans^ 
the  conquerors  of  Gaul,  whosedescendants  intermarrying 
with  the  natives  of  tiie  land,  were  in  turn  subjugated  by 
ihe  adventurous  northmen.  So  that  after  the  lapse  of 
over  half  a  century,  the  foreigners  'Tntendant  of  Police"' 
gives  place  to  the  ISTorman  "  Mayor,"  and  the  name 
"Commissioners"  likewise  yields  to  the  Anglo  Saxow 
"Aldermen  "  (or  Elder-men),  which  emigrated  to  Eng- 
land from  Germany  with  Ilengistand  Ilorsa. 

FOURTH  DAY  OF  JULY. 

Among  the  first  Commissioners  appointed  by  the  Teg.-- 


(35) 

islature  in  1801,  was  a  colonel  of  the  Revolution,  with  the 
wounds,scarce  healed, of  Germantown  and  Eutaw  Springs, 
long  a  leader  in  Raleigh  society,  Col.  Wm.  Polk,  who  re- 
moved to  Raleigh  from  Mecklenburg  county.  It  was  with 
him  not  only  a  duty,  but  a  pride,  to  keep  alive  the  glories 
of  177C).  The  celeln^ation  of  the  4th  of  July  filled  so  lare-e 
a  space  in  the  minds  of  the  peoj)lc  of  that  day,  this  ad- 
dress would  be  incomplete  without  an  attempt  to  recall 
them.  With  our  fathers  this  celebration  was  no  idle  holi- 
day. It  was  in  vivid  reality  to  them  the  birthday  of  the- 
nation — the  day  of  deliverance  from  slavery,  the  great 
Passover,  keeping  in  remembrance  the  staying  of  the 
hand  of  the  destroying  Angel. 

The  day  was  ushered  in  by  tiring  of  cannon.  Then  at 
sunrise  there  was  prayer  at  the  Presbyterian  church. 
]jarge  numbers  attended  and  thanked  with  devout  hearts 
the  Almiglity  for  his  blessings  on  the  country,  a  custom 
kept  up  until  the  breaking  out  of  the  great  civil  war, 
but  revived,  I  re:joice  to  see,  on  this  da^^ 

At  12  o'clock  there  was  a  Federal  salute,  as  it  was  called 
— one  gun  for  each  State  in  the  Union.  Then  a  proces- 
sion was  formed  at  the  Court  House,  and  moved  to  the 
music  of  fife  and  drum  to  1  he  capitol  square.  There  an 
ode  was  sung.  Then  the  Declaration  of  Independence 
was  read.  Then  an  ode.  Then  the  Oration,  which  was 
followed  by  an  ode.  These  odes,  sung  with  spirit,  were  far 
more  soul-stirring  than  the  brass  bands  of  these  days. 

At  12  o'clock  a  good  dinner  was  set.  There  were  two 
tables  presided  over  by  President  and  Vice  President. 
Toasts  were  drunk,  followed  by  speeches  and  convivial 
songs. 

Here  are  specimens  : 

'•The  sriKiT  of  1776,  encircled  by  Wisdom  and  reclin- 
ing on  Peace,  but  possessing  tiie  eye  of  the  Eagle  to  dis- 
cern and  the  arm  of  a  Lion  to  avenge  our  country's 
wrong." 


(36) 

"  Tl)e  PEOPLE  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES,  ma\'  they  become 
tiioreand  more  in  feeling  and  fact,  a  band  oe  p.rotiieks; 
whilst  they  remain  in  principle  and  conduct  a  l)and  of 
PATRIOTS  and  thus  prove  themselves  Americans  without 
alloy." 

A  participant  enables  me  to  give  an  account  of  one  of 
these  scenes,  which  is  a  iair  sample  of  all.  Gov.  Holmes 
presided  at  one  table,  Col.  Polk  at  the  other.  Three 
Judges  were  appointed  to  decide  which  table  furnished 
the  best  song  and  the  best  speech,  viz:  Joseph  Gales,  the 
distinguished  editor.  Chief  Justice  Taylor  and  Judge  Hall 
of  the  Supreme  Court.  The  lavorite  singer  at  Gov.  Holmes' 
table  was  one  Reeder,  a  tinner,  v/ho  bad  gallantly  run 
"  for  bis  country's  fame"  at  Bladensburg.  The  cbam]Mon 
of  the  other  table  was  Leonidas  (or  Lonny)  Polk,  son  of 
the  Colonel,  afterwards  the  great  Missionary  ]^>ishop  of 
the  South-west,  the  soldier  Bishop  who  was  killed  at  Chic- 
amauga.  By  the  vocal  powers  of  the  future  Bishop  the 
Judges  awarded  the  victory  to  the  table  of  his  father. 
The  prize  of  tlie  victory  was  the  privilege  of  taking  the 
occupants  of  both  tables  to  the  home  of  the  victor  and 
treating  them  to  new  viands.  The  crowd  hurried  tumult- 
ously, singing  and  shouting  as  they  went,  to  theresidence 
of  Col.  Polk,  following  him  as  a  leader,  dragging  a  can- 
non as  they  went.  An  ample  table  was  found  spread  for 
them,  new  toasts  were  drunk,  new  songs  sung,  the  cannon 
was  fired,  and  amid  shouts  and  hurrahs  for  Col.  Polk  and 
Independence,  the  patriots,  their  bosoms  too  full  for  ut- 
terance, meandered  to  their  homes. 

At  such  seasons  "King  Bragg"  reigned  supreme.  The 
following  poetry  copied  from  a  newspaper  of  a  later  date 
shows  the  proud  boasting  of  the  patriotic  heart  : 

"  Of  one  thing,  reader,  be  thou  sure — the  Yankee  eagle  one  day 
Will  stretch  his  wings  from  Behring's  strait  beyond  the  bay  of  Fun- 
day. 
And  from  the  pole  to  Panama,  when  sleeping  I  and  you  lie 
Will  all  belong  to  Uncle  Sam,  some  future  Fourth  of -July."" 


Every  great  event  was  celebrated  in  those  days  of  clieap 
"hog  and  lioinony,"  (spelt,  I  niciitioii  for  tlie  information 
of  boys  and  girls  und  spelling  l)ee>)  h-o-ni-on-y,  and  I 
nmst  add  of  cheap  li(jn()i',  and  in  the  exnlicrance  of  spirit. 
tlie  toasts  soared  to  the  skies  and  got  lost  in  the  clouds. 

Here  is  one  given  at  a  dinner  during  the  war  of  1(S]2, 
on  Oct.  2i)th  ISI;:;: 

"  Lawrknck  and  Ludlow  ;  at  the  tremendous  thunder 
of  whose  cannon  the  Fates  in  astonishment  snapt  their 
thrciid  and  left  a  nation  drowned   in  tears." 

I'his  {  icture  of  the  giiiu  P'/rtv?6'  losing  their  self-|)OS- 
session  at  the  sound  of  cannon  in  asea-fight  and  sna[>ping 
off  life  threads  at  random,  is  above  anything  in  lEonier 
or  Yirgil. 

At  the  same  dinner  was  given  a  toast  which  shows  liiat 
our  fellow  citizens  from  OKI  .l^i'in  were  then,  as  they  ai-o 
now,  friends  of  edneation. 

"  Tne  Kalkigii  Academy — May  the  sons  of  St  Tam- 
many and  the  sons  of  St.  Patrick  dance  hand  in  baud  to 
the  music  of  the  Iiisii  harj),  new  strung  by  the  ;:oddess 
of  liberty." 

But  I  cord'ess  with  slnnne  that  in  blood  and  thunder 
sentiments  Raleigh  was  beaten  by  our  sister,  Wilming- 
ton. At  afeast  given  in  honor  of  the  Father  of  his  coun- 
try at  that  good  city  Feb.  22nd  1813,  the  following  toast 
was  given  and  enthusiastically  apjdauded. 

"The  American  Fi,ag— Wra['pe(l  in  a  blaze  of  boan- 
less  glory,  like  the  resplendent  shield  of  Jove,  shaken 
aloft  in  the  skies.  May  it  flash  lightning  in  the  faces  and 
strike  terror  into  the  hearts  of  its  enemies  and  in  every 
confiictmay  it  triuniphantly  wave  ov^r  continued  streams 
ofincessant  i)eals  of  destructive-,  all  subduing  thunder, 
until  it  renders  itself  a  free  pass  and  an  inviolable  i)ro- 
teetion  to  every  citizen  who  may  sail   under  it.'' 

It  is  needless  to  add  that  the  music  which  followed  this 
toast  was — Yankee  l^oodle. 


(38) 

I  here  remark  tliat  the  division  between  Federalists  and 
Repul)licans,  the  friends  of  peace  and  the  friends  of  war, 
was  sharply  defined.  At  this  anniversary  of  the  birth  of 
AVashington,  in  Wilmington,  the  Federalists  called  by  pub- 
lic advertisement  for  a  separate  celebration  hy  "  Federal- 
ists and  the  friends  of  Peace,"  and  were  sharply  repri- 
manded therefor  by  the  Raleigh  Registe)'. 

The  division  was  not  so  marked  in  Raleigh,  as  the  evils 
of  the  war  did  not  fall  so  heavily  in  the  interior  towns,  but 
it  is  certain  that  there  was  mucli  opposition  to  the  war  here 
and  in  the  county  of  Wake.  Notwithstanding  his  military 
temperament,  Col.  Polk  refused  a  Brigadier  Generalship, 
tendered  him  by  President  ^Madison,  and  the  late  venerable 
Wm.  Boylan,  a  staunch  Federalist,  always  in  the  minority 
before,  was  elected  to  the  Legislature  from  Wake  during 
all  the  time  of  the  war.  Still  there  was  no  factions  oppo- 
sition. The  people  of  Raleigh  seem  to  have  done  their 
whole  duty.  A  Raleigh  company  volQnteere(h  On  July 
4th,  1812,  they  held  a  separate  celebration.  In  a  papei  of 
that  day  I  read  : 

"  The  Raleigh  Yolunteer  Guard,  and  a  nundjcr  of  citi- 
zens, (all  dressed  in  home-spun,)  mot  at  Rex's  Spring  to 
celebrate  the  Da}^  Capt.  Wiatt  was  President  and  Allen 
Rogers  Vice-President.  After  plain  but  plentiful  dinner 
the  following  toasts  were  drank  in  home-made  liquors,"  &c. 

The  toasts  were  in  good  taste,  entirely  free  from  the  fire 
and  fury  I  have  just  given  you — the  toasts  of  men  going  to 
the  battle,  rather  than  of  "bomb-proof,"  stay-atdiome  men 
boasting  of  the  deeds  of  others. 

And  I  find  that  on  the  4rh  of  July,  1813,  the  usual 
firing  of  cannon  was  dispensed  with,  the  reason  given  be- 
ing that  "  the  [)Owder  was  needed  for  the  war." 

The  services  of  the  Raleigh  Volunteer  Guards  were  ac- 
cepted and  they  were  ordered  to  Beaufort,  but  they  had 
DO  opportunity  to  show  their  valor.  A  company  of  draft- 
ed militia  of  the  countv  was  sent  to  Norfolk.     Mi'.  James 


(3!)) 

D.  lioyster,  to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  much  information, 
remembers  well  this  draft,  which  was  held  at  the  north 
<loor  of  the  State  House.  The  great  crowd  collected, 
the  terrified  countenances,  the  agony  of  suspense,  the 
lamentations  of  the  women,  as  the  unlucky  lot  fell  to 
their  sons,  husbands,  or  lovers,  are  fresh  in  his  mind  al- 
though he  was  a  mere  boy.  Their  fears  were  justified,  for 
many  a  good  Wake  man  lost  his  life  in  the  fever-stricken 
camp  on  the  shores  of  Hampton  Koads. 

THE    NEWSPAPERS    OF    EAPJA'    DAYS. 

It  is  difficult  to  realize  the  condition  of  the  society  of 
the  city  in  its  early  days.  The  population  was  small, 
travel  was  so  difficult  and  tedious  that  strangers  were 
rare,  and  welcomed  with  peculiar  cordiality  as  bringing 
news  from  abroad.  A  trip  to  New  York  was  a  matter  of 
weeks  of  tedious  journeying. 

We  now  pick  up  our  morning  papers  and  read  the 
tidings  from  San  Francisco,  and  Vienna,  London,  and 
>St.  Petersburg,  Calcutta  and  Japan  of  the  day  before. 

I  have  in  my  hand  copies  of  the  rival  news})apers  of 
the  day — the  Raleigh Hegister  and  the  Jlinerva — furnisli- 
ed  me  by  my  friend,  jNIajor  Gales.  The  Bcyister  is  dated 
April  12th,  1810.  The  latest  news  from  Congress  is 
March  30th,  a  speech  from  John  Randolph.  Under  the 
head  of  Foreign  Intelligence,  we  read:  "Norfolk,  April 
2.  By  the  ship  Portia,  Cab.  Tabb,  we  have  received  Lon- 
don papers  to  January  24."  In  a  postscript  we  have 
accounts  from  Cadiz  to  lOth  of  February.  The  news  of 
the  battle  of  New  Orleans  was  not  heard  in  Raleigh  until 
the  17th  of  I'^ebruary. 

As  we  read  these  papers  we  seem  to  be  among  a  differ- 
ent people.  It  may  interest  you  to  give  some  idea  of  the 
kind  of  newspaper  literature,  which  amused  and  in- 
structed the  Raleigh  man  of  seventy  odd  years  ago.    Here 


(40) 

is  a  co[)y  of  the  Treaty  of  Am-eriens  in  1802.  In  another 
column  is  an  account  of  a  lottery  had  for  the  University 
— 1,500  tickets  at  $5  each — the  highest  prize,  $1,500, 
drawn  hy  Gen.  Lawrence  Balcer,  of  Gates.  The  lucky 
number  is  1,138.  In  Aict,  all  through  the  paper  we  see 
notices  of  lotteries — for  schools,  for  churches  and  other 
objects.  Here  is  an  account  of  a  negro  insurrection  in 
Bertie,  about  wdiich  all  Eastern  N.  C.  was  excited  to  mad- 
ness. Horse  stealing  seems  to  be  common,  the  country 
being  thinly  settled,  and  there  being  no  railroad  or  tele- 
graphs, escape  was  easy.  Amusements  they  had,  some- 
times in  the  Court  House,  sometimes  in  the  Capitol.  Here 
are  some  grand  wax  figures — "  Washington  and  Lady — 
Gen,  Bonaparte — 1st  Consul — The  late  Gen.  Butler,  who 
fell  in  St.  Clair's  defeat,  represented  as  wounded  in  leg 
and  breast,  and  Indians  rushing  on  him  with  toma- 
hawks." 

Big  tales,  too,  they  tell.  AVhat  do  you  say  of  this  as  a 
specimen  ? 

"William  Weldon,  of  Warren,  saw  a  hern  (as  a  heron 
Avas  called),  seized  by  a  turtle,  and  went  to  relieve  the 
hern,  when  it  darted  its  bill  into  the  socket  of  Weldon's 
eye,  and  holding  it  by  the  ball,  suspended  itself  and  the 
turtle,  hanging  to  its  legs.  He  will  probably  lose  the 
sight  of  the  eye." 

And  here  is  a  correspondent  who  waxes  wroth  at  a  re- 
cent announcement  of  the  State  Treasurer  that  £5,847^ 
10s  of  "  ragged  money,"  have  been  burnt.  The  corres- 
pondent says  such  contraction  will  ruin  the  country.  It 
should  be  duplicated  and  re-issued. 

And  they  had  anecdotes  in  old  times.  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh,  while  at  a  nobleman's  house,  overheard  early 
one  morning  the  nobleman's  wife  ask  the  servant,  "  Have 
you  fed  the  pigs  ?"  At  breakfast  he  said  to  his  hostess, 
with  a  meaning  look,  "  Have  the  pigs  been  fed  ?''  "  Yes," 
said  she,  "  all  but  one  strav/jc  jiig,  and  I  am  about  to  feed 


(41) 

him  noAv."     A  boy  in  this  day  of  cant  would  say  "she 
was  heavy  on  Sir  Walter." 

The  election  news,  too,  see  how  slowly  it  comes  in  ! 
The  election  was  on  the  1st  Thursday  in  August.  August 
1(),  heard  from  11  counties;  August,  23,  18;  August  30, 
19;  September  6,  7 ;  September  13,  Tyrrell;  September 
27,  Guilford  comes  creeping  in. 

Duels  are  common.  In  one  paper  there  was  a  des- 
perate tight  between  Clinton  and  Swartwout,  between 
Peter  Van  Allen  and  Crawford.     Van  Allen  was  killed. 

Then  the  duel  between  Stanly  and  Spaight  on  the  out- 
skirts of  Newbern  with  many  lookers  on,  in  which  Spaight 
was  killed.  I  am  proud  to  say  that  I  find  no  record  of 
any  duel  fought  by  citizens  of  Raleigh  while  they  were 
such,  although  blood  was  hot  and  spirit  high  here  as 
elsewhere. 

Here  is  an  advertisement  of  the  opening  of  the  Uni- 
versity with  Rev.  Joseph  Caldwell,  Professor  of  Mathe- 
matics, and  Rev.  William  Bingham,  (grand-father  of  Col. 
William  and  Major  Robert  Bingham,)  Professor  of  Langu- 
age :  "  Tuition,  $20  per  year.  Board  at  Steward's  Ilall, 
$57  per  year.  Grammar  schools  hereafter  to  be  separated 
from  the  college."  And  here  is  an  account  of  the  pre- 
sentation of  two  handsome  Globes  to  the  University  by 
the  ladies  of  Raleigh.  The  names  of  the  donors  are  not 
published.  Our  forefathers  shrank  from  putting  the 
names  of  the  ladies  into  print,  as  I  grieve  to  see  is  be- 
ginning to  be  the  abominable  custom  now. 

What  indignation  and  disgust  the  announcement  by 
our  Supreme  Court  that  attornies  should  not  be  allowed 
to  practice  before  the  Court  would  cause  among  our 
lawyers,  yet  we  find  such  a  notice  by  the  Court  of  Con 
ference  in  1802,  made  in  pursuance  of  an  Act  of  As- 
sembly. 

Xor  does  the  present  time,  with  its  Kuklux  trials  and 
its  "  Kirk-war "  habeas  corpus  cases,   Swazey   suits,  and 


(42) 

•Self  special  tax  bonds  mandamus,  have  the  monopoly  of 
great  forensic  displays.  In  January,  1805,  came  on  be- 
fore Judge  Potter,  Chief  Justice  Marshall  declining  to  sit 
for  personal  reasons,  the  grand  ejectment  suit,  in  which 
the  Lord  Granville  of  the  day  endeavored  to  establish 
title  to  the  magnificent  territory  granted  to  his  ancestor, 
one  of  the  Lords  Proprietors,  stretching  from  about  the 
latitude  of  Raleigh  to  the  Virginia  line,  from  the  Atlan- 
tic to  the  Pacific.  We  read  that  on  Thursday  Gaston 
■"  spoke  at  great  length  and  with  much  method,  perspi- 
cuity, eloquence  and  strength.  The  defence  was  con- 
ducted by  Cameron,  Baker  and  Woods,  with  great  inge- 
nuity, skill  and  force,  and  the  argument  was  closed  on 
Saturday  by  Mr.  Harris  for  the  plaintiff  with  much 
learning  and  ability."  The  case  was  decided  against  the 
plaintiff,  and  the  appeal  to  the  Supreme  Court  of  the 
LTnited  States  was  never  prosecuted  to  a  hearing. 

On  February  21st,  of  1803,  there  was  a  great  fall  of 
snow,  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  on  a  level.  This  was 
equalled,  I  think,  in  January,  1857,  when  there  was 
great  suffering  among  us  ibr  want  of  fuel,  and  there  were 
traces  of  snow  on  the  north  sides  of  walls  six  weeks  after- 
wards. 

And  how  grateful  subsequent  events  have  proved  the 
coal  owners  of  Pennsylvania  have  been  for  the  following 
advice  editorially  given  in  1802:  "  We  recommend  the 
people  of  Eastern  Pennsylvania  to  adopt  the  practice  of 
forcing  the  earth  for  pit  coal.  We  are  credibly  informed 
that  ill  England  coal  has  been  discovered  at  a  depth  of 
120  fathoms — 720  feet!"  Since  then  coal  has  been  profit- 
-ably  mined  at  2800  feet. 

How  delightful  it  Avould  be  to  road  as  of  July  4th, 
1876,  this  announcement  made  June  29th  1802.  "To- 
morrow will  die,  unregretted  by  the  American  people,  the 
death  awarded  them  by  Congress,  all  our  Internal  Feder- 
al Taxes,    consisting   of  duties   on   stills   and    domestic 


(48) 

spirits,  on  refined  sugars,  license  to  retailers,  sales  at  auc- 
tion, carriages,  and  all  stamped  duties.  May  they  have 
an  eternal  sleep." 

What  spicy  news  tins  is  of  the  loth  May  1802,  just  re- 
ceived on  July  12th  1802: 

"Bonaparte  has  at  last  reached  the  acme  of  his  ambi- 
tion. Before  this  time  it  is  presumed,  he  has  been  de- 
clared Perpetual  Consul." 

The  editor  annexes  the  notice  of  the  Mayor  of  Havre 
that  a  vote  will  be  taken  on  this  question  on  the  2oth 
Floreal  (15th  :\[ay). 

For  the  benefit  of  my  school-boy  hearers,  I  state  that 
Pizarro's  speech  by  Sheridan  so  familiar  to  them,  l>cgin- 
ning:  "  AJy  brave  associates,  partners  of  my  toil,  my 
feelings  and  m}^  fame,"  was  first  received  and  printed  at 
Raleigh,  October  24th  1803.  And  for  the  benefit  of  my 
older  hearers,  I  state  that  this  speech  was  circulated 
throughout  England  as  an  attack  on  the  ministry. 

It  is  amusing  to  read  how  fiercely  the  editor  assails  so 
distinguished  a  cliaracter  as  Noah  Webster,  who  edited  a 
paper  in  Connecticut,  for  complaining  that  Jefferson 
prefers  the  society  of  mechanics  to  that  of  men  of  man- 
ners and  education.  "We  would  like  to  know  which  is 
the  most  useful  of  the  two,  the  inventor  or  maker  of  a 
mathematical  instrument,  for  example,  or  the  mechanical 
compiler  of  a  spelling  book."'  He  declares  his  opinion 
that  Webster's  writings  "might  have  required  industry 
but  not  half  as  much  ingenuity  as  is  necessary  to  con- 
struct a  quadrant,  clock  or  watch  !" 

In  justice  to  the  editor,  (by  the  bye  in  those  days 
"editors  "  were  called  "  printers  "),  I  state  that,  when  this 
was  written,  "Webster's  Unabridged  Dictionary"  was 
only  in  (lie  brain  of  its  great  "mechanical  compiler." 


(44) 


INSURRECTIONS. 

It  is  impossible  for  us  to  imagine  what  terror  minors 
of  iiisurrectiohs  among  slaves  caused  among  our  ances- 
tors. They  created  a  wild  panic  in  which  reason  and 
sense  had  no  part.  We  find  such  rumors  common  in  the 
early  part  of  the  century.  The  most  notable  w^as  in  June 
1802  when  the  discovery  that  one  Frank  Sumner  had 
embodied  a  company  of  13  men  under  his  leadersliip  as 
Captain,  threw  the  whole  country  from  Tar  River  to  the 
Atlantic  into  consternation.  Volunteer  companies  were 
orgaiiizod  for  patrolling  and  for  arresting  suspected  per- 
sons. Martial  law  reigned  supreme.  The  writ  oi habeas 
corpus  was  suspended  in  practice,  though  not  by  law,  as 
to  the  negro  rase.  At  the  time  100  men  were  locked  up 
in  Martin  county  jail.  Poor  Captain  Frank  Sumner  for 
his  ill-timed  ambition  was  promptly  hung  by  judgment 
of  a  special  court  and  his  deluded  followers  were  glad  to 
escape  one  with  the  loss  of  his  ears,  one  with  branding, 
the  rest  with  flogging. 

A  similar  panic  about  that  time  occurred  in  Franklin 
county,  but  after  great  excitement  in  all  middle  ISTorth 
Carolina  and  many  arrests,  the  accused  were  pronounced 
by  the  court  hastily  convened  for  the  emergency,  to  be 
not  guilty. 

When  ISTat.  Turner's  massacre  of  fifty-five  persons  oc- 
curred in  Southampton,  Virginia,  in  1831,  the  whole  of 
Raleigh  was  placed  under  arms.  The  able-bodied  were 
divided  into  four  companies,  each  to  patrol  the  streets 
every  fourth  night.  The  old  men  were  organized  as 
Silver  Grays.  The  fortress  was  the  Presbyterian  Church 
and  it  was  agreed  that  whenever  the  State  House  bell 
should  sound  the  women  and  children  were  to  hasten  to 
its  protecting  walls.  At  last  one  night  O'Rourke's  black- 
smith shop  took  fire.  It  was  night — says  my  informant — 


(45) 

liisliair  is  iVosled  now  ;ljat  he  remembers  as  vividly  us  it' 
it  were  yesterday,  the  women  with  dislieveled  hair  and  in 
their  ni^ht  clothes  running  for  life  through  the  streets. 
It  was  no  laughing  mattei-  lo  them.  One  of  our  most 
veneral)!e  and  intelligent  old  ladies  (and  she  is  an  un- 
coniinonly  bravo  woman),  although  she  disbelieved  tlie 
stories,  yet  when  she  heard  the  loud  clangor  of  the  bells 
at  midnight,  drew  her  children  around  her,  determined 
to  beg  the  enemy  to  kill  them  first  so  that  she  might  see 
them  safe  in  death  rather  than  be  the  first  to  die,  leaving 
them  to  brutality  and  torture.  But  her  son,  then  a  mere 
boy,  brandished  his  deceased  father's  sword  and  jirepared 
to  defend  the  household.  I  hope  he  will  pardon  me  for 
mentioning  an  act  so  much  to  his  credit.  It  was  our 
Raleigh  poet,  James  Fontleroy  Tayloi-. 

The  negroes  were  frightened  more  than  the  whites. 
They  lied  and  hid  unfler  houses,  in  garden  shrubbery, 
la}'  between  corn  rows — anywhere. 

There  never  was  a  time  when  the  colored  people  of 
Halcigh  would  have  risen  against  our  people.  It  is 
greatly  to  the  credit  of  botli  races  that  notwithstanding- 
party  animosity  and  sudden  emancipation,  the  kindly 
personal  feeling  between  the  whiles  and  their  old  servants 
lias  never  been  interrupted. 

CON T A G 1 0 L'S  DIS K A S ES. 

A  similar  terror  in  regard  to  smallpox  often  seized  the 
city.  When  this  disease  jn-evailed,  the  city  was  actually 
in  a  state  of  blockade.  The  country  })eople  shunned  it 
as  an  object  of  horrible  dread.  Ropes  were  stretched 
across  the  infected  streets.  Many  families  would  not  al- 
low their  inmates  to  leave  their  lots  for  an}-  cause.  An 
old  citizen  had  a  colored  man  who,  he  discovered,  had 
made  a  forbidden  visit  to  one  of  his  ohl  cronies.  On  his 
return  he  was  :-nioked  with  tar  aiMl   feathers  to   kill   the 


(46) 

pestilence.  The  same  citizen  owed  a  neighbor  some 
mone}'.  He  handed  it  to  him  tiirongh  the  fence  with  a 
pair  of  tongs.  The  doctors  were  kept  busy  with  vaccina- 
ting. A  nurse  who  had  been  attacked  and  cured  of  the 
disease  could  command  any  price.  A  country  woman 
came  into  tvown  to  sell  a  bushel  of  potatoes, sitting  on  the 
bag  on  horseback.  She  called  at  Mrs.  Royster's  and  ask- 
ed her  if  she  wished  to  buy  her  potatoes.  "Yes,"  said 
Mrs.  Royster,  "I  would  like  to  buy."  Before  alighting 
the  woman  said,  "Mrs.  Royster,  I  wish  you  would  tell  me 
honestly  whether  the  small-pox  is  here?"  "Yes,"  said 
Mrs.  Royster,  "Don't  you  see  the  ropes  across  the  streec 
yonder?"  She  started  with  a  scream,  put  whip  to  her 
horse  and  raced  him  for  miles,  carrying  the  potatoes  w.th 
her.  I  record  it  to  the  honor  of  old  Mr.  Wm.  Peck-, 
whose  strong  sense  of  justice  was  remarkable  that,  when 
lie  was  the  only  grocer  who  had  flour  for  sale,  he  refused 
to  sell  it  by  the  quantity  but  retailed  it,  a  few  pounds  to- 
each,  to  the  families  known  to  be  needy. 

Scarlet  fever  aroused  a  feeling  almost  as  intense  a-s 
small-pox.  I  myself  remember  when  a  camphor  bag. 
suspended  around  the  neck  was  as  nece-sary  an  adjunct 
to  a  school-boy  as  a  "shining  morning  face"  or  as  an  Ele- 
mentary Spelling  Book- 

PRICKS  OF  NECESSARIES. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  the  pri(;es  of  ai'ticlesin  ordinary 
us'^.  I  have  examined  the  account  liooks  of  W.  &  J- 
Peace,  for  1S05  and  1814,  kept  in  a  beautiful  manner, 
page  after  page  without  erasure  or  blot  or  interlineation, 
kept  in  pounds,  -hillings  and  })encc. ;  |2  to  the  £;  10  cts> 
to  the  shilling. 

The  war  of  1812  did  not  cause  such  rise  in  values  as  I 
expected  : 

Salt  in  1805  $1.75,  in  1815  $4.75  per  bushel  ;  Calico  iii 


(47) 

1805  87i  cts.  per  yd,  in  1814  $1  per  yd;  Xails  (8d)  in 
1805  20"cts.  per  100,  in  1814  25  cts.  per  100 ;  Shot  in  1805 
20  cts.  per  ft,  in  1814  37|-  per  it)  ;  Tea  in  1805  $2.50  per 
ft),  in  1814  $3.20  per  lb;  Loaf  Sagar  in  1805  37^  cts.  per 
ft),  in  1814  50  cts.  per  lb. 

The  prco  of  advertisements  in  the  newspapers  of  the 
city  continued  for  years,  unafFocted  by  wars  and  financial 
panics,  "not  over  twenty  lines,  for  the  first  insertion,  half  a 
dollar  ;  for  each  succeeding  insertion,  a  quarter  of  a  dollar." 

During  our  late  civil  war  the  following  were  the  prices^.. 
in  February  18()5,  when  gold  was  selling  at  $1  for  $50  Con-  ' 
federate  currency. 

Nails  $3.50  per  pound,  in  gold  7  cts  ;  Flour  $500  per' 
barrel,  in  gold  $10  :  Quinine  .$200  per  oz,  in  gold  $4  ;  Mor^ 
phine  $800  per  oz,  in  gold  $1(). 

These  prices  were  terrible  to  salaried  men  and  mechanics,, 
whoso  compensation  by  no  means  rose  as  Confederate* 
pciees  depreciated. 

THE    RALEGH    ACADEMY. 

The  attention  of  the  people  of  Raleigh  was  early 
directed  to  the  subject  of  education.  The  most  active- 
man  in  inaugurating  schools  was  Joseph  Gales,  the  editor 
of  the  Register^  one  of  the  most  enlightened  of  the  fathers 
of  Raleigh. 

The  following  is  the  list  of  the  Trustees  elected  March 
27th,  1802:  .Joiin  Ingles,  Wm.  White,  Nathaniel  Jones^ 
(of  White  Plain),  Henry  Beawell,  Simon  Turner,  Wm.. 
Boylan,  John  Marshall,  and  Joseph  Gales. 

Nathaniel  Jones,  who  had  donated  $100,  Avas  chosen. 
President,  and  Joseph  Gales  Secretary. 

One  month  afterwards  $800  is  reported  subscribed  and 
soon  an  academy  is  built  b}'  permission  of  the  General 
Assembly,  on  ]>urke  square,  one  building  for  the  males^ 
one  for  the  females. 


(48) 

This  Academy  became  a  power  in  the  land.  It  ground- 
ed tlie  education  of  nearly  all  the  boys  of  that  day  in 
central  Xortli  Carolina.  It  was  the  pride  and  glory  of 
Raleigh  for  the  third  of  a  century. 

The  Academy  began  in  grand  style.  In  1804  we  read 
an  advertisement  which  announces  the  teachers  as  fol- 
lows : 

Rev.  Marin  Detargney  (late  of  Princeton,  and  of  the 
college  of  Maryland)  as  Principal. 

Chesley  Daniel,  graduate  of  the  University  of  jSTorth 
Carolina,  and  late  one  of  the  Tutor's  assistants. 

Miss  Charlotte  Brodie,  Teacher  of  Needle  Work. 

Greek,  Latin,  Spanish,  French,  Mathematics,  with  ap- 
plication to  the  system  of  the  World,  Astronomy,  Navi- 
gation, etc.,  all  at  $5  per  Cjuarter.  A  less  amount  might 
be  had  for  $4  per  quarter.  The  English  branches  for  $3 
per  quarter,  and  Needle  "Work  free. 

Such  array  of  all  the  sciences  seems  to  have  been  above 
the  demands  of  young  Raleigh,  and  in  1810  it  is  an- 
nounced by  William  White,  the  Secretary  of  the  Board? 
that  the  Trustees  of  the  Academy  had  engaged  the  Rev. 
William  McPheeters,  from  Virginia,  a  gentleman  emi- 
nently qualified  for  the  undertaking,  to  become  the 
Principal  of  the  Academy  and  "  Pastor  of  the  City." 

The  leaders  in  the  great  contest  with  the  social  and 
political  evils  of  the  day,  those  who  must  drill  the  young 
to  their  full  powers  and  enable  them  to  cope  with  the 
active  adventurous,  nothing  fearing,  all  daring  spirit  of 
this  age,  are  the  teachers  of  the  land.  Our  people  cap- 
tivated by  the  eloquence  of  the  statesman,  or  the  brilliant 
achievements  of  the  warrior  do  not  fully  appreciate  the 
grandeur  of  their  calling. 

We  honor  with  abundaut  praise  that  man  by  whose  in- 
vestigation into  the  laws  of  nature,  rich  harvests  of  golden 
grain  beautify  the  sterile  heath,  fat  cattle  crop  a  grateful 
food  on  a  thousand  barren  hills.     How  much  more  worthy 


(49) 

of  histing  glory  is  the  luun  l)y  wlioso  aid  heavon-boni  ideas 
spring  up  and  flourish  in  a  desert  mind,  principles  of  noble 
•conduct  in  a  moral  "waste,  high  aspirations  for  the  beautiful 
and  sublime  in  the  place  of  low  and  vulgar  prejudice. 

Dr.  Wra.  MePheeters  was  one  of  the  best  of  his  class, 
pains-taking,  conscientious,  thorough,  parental  and  kind  to 
the  dutiful,  but  a  terror  to  the  truant — high-minded,  brave 
frank,  abhorring  all  meanness,  he  not  only  instructed  the 
minds  of  his  boys,  but  he  trained  their  consciences  to  aim 
at  his  own  lofty  standard. 

He  was,  too,  pastor  of  the  city  for  several  years.  Tlis 
ministrations  in  the  Commons  Hall  were  attended  by  all, 
iiud  Episcopalians  and  Baptists,  Presbyterians  and  Metho- 
dists, in  their  triumphs  and  their  sorrows,  on  the  bed  of  sick- 
ness, and  in  the  hour  of  death,  found  in  him  a  sympathiz- 
ing friend,  a  safe  counsellor,  a  true,  tried,  well-armed 
Oreat-Heart. 

Under  this  remarkable  man  the  Raleigh  Academy  grew 
and  nourished,  and  the  Kaleigh  people  insensibly  looking 
up  to  him  as  a  common  guide,  were  a  united  community, 
mipretentions,  sociable,  cordial  to  one  another  and  cordial 
to  strangers. 

Dr.  MePheeters  did  not  consider  his  responsi1)ility  for 
the  morals  of  the  children  under  his  care  to  cease  with  the 
dismissal  of  school  on  Friday  evening.  On  Sunday  morn- 
ing they  were  called  to  assemble  at  the  Academy  for  Sun- 
day School,  and  after  the  Presbyterian  churcli  was  built  in 
1816,  a  procession  was  formed  with  the  assistance  of  the 
female  teacher,  Miss  Nye,  and  all  marched  to  the  Presby- 
terian church.  On  Monday  the  roll  was  called  and  woe  to 
the  chap  who  could  not  give  a  good  reason  for  non-attend- 
ance. He  firmly  believed  in  'nnoral  suasion,"  provided  it 
was  rul)l)ed  in  with  a  little  hickory  and  chin({uapiri  oil. 
As  illustrating  his  management,  as  well  as  displaying  his 
grim  humor,  one  of  our  best  and  most  dignified  citizens 
tells  me  that,  when  a  bov,  he  with  two  others  concluded 
4 


(50) 

that  hunting  birds'  nests  on  Pigeon  House  Brancli  was- 
more  agreeable  than  learning  the  Shorter  Catechism.  Ac- 
cordingly their  handsome  faces  were  not  found  for  severaE 
Sundays  in  the  procession  marching  from  the  Academy  to-^ 
the  church.  One  morning  the  good  Doctor  drjdy  observed,. 
"I  have  noticed  that  several  of  these  boys  are  affected  with  jg. 
new  disease — the  Sunday  fever — ^I  have  a  sovereign  remedjr 
for  it  and  for  fear  it  may  prove  contagious,  I  will  now  pro- 
ceed to  administer  it."  Whereupon  he  drew  forth  his- 
stout  hickory  and  gave  them  such  a  dose  as  cured  the  fever* 
never  to  return.  He  was  no  respecter  of  persons  ;  regardedl 
neither  position  nor  the  age  of  badly  behaved  boj's.  Om 
one  occasion  he  was  about  to  whip  a  large  youth,  weighing; 
175  lbs.  The  boy  expostulated,  "Dr.  I  am  too  old  to  be- 
whipped."  The  reply  was,  "As  long  as  a  boy  misbehaves' 
he  is  young  enough  to  be  punished." 

It  is  to  the  credit  of  the  Ancient  Freemasons  that  they' 
were  the  first  benevolent  organization  to  occupy  Raleiglr.- 
They  even  preceded  any  religious  denomination. 

The  first  Lodge  of  Ancient  Freemasons  in  the  city  ot" 
Raleigh  was  organized  February  11th,  1793,  at  the  house" 
of  Warren  Altord,  under  the  charter  granted  by  tlie  Grand 
Lodge,  Friday,  December  14th,  1702,  styled  Democratic 
Lodofe,  No.  21,  with  John  Macon,  Master;  Rodman  At- 
khis,  Senior  Warden  ;  and  Gee  Bradley,  Junior  Warden,- 
This  Lodge  existed  for  two  or  three  years.     Iliram  Lodge- 
No.  40,  was  established  under  a  dispensation  of  Wm.  R 
Davie,  Grand  Master^  dated  the  10th  day  of  March,  1799  ., 
with  Henry  Potter,  Master;  John  Marshall,  Senior  warden!; 
and    Robert    Williams,  Jr.,   Junior  warden.     Its  charter' 
bears  date  15th  of  December,  1800;  was  signed  by  Wm. 
Polk,  Grand  Master.     The  names  of  many  of  the  men  who> 
composed  the  early  membership  of  this  Lodge  are   promi- 
nently coimected  with  the  history  of  Raleigh,  either  from;*^ 
its  foundation  or  from  a  date  not  far  remote  from  it.     Tlie* 
names  of  Henry  Potter,  Theophius  Hunter,  John  Marshall. 


\  r^l ) 

William  Boylan,  William  Hill,  Calvin  Jones,  William  W. 
Seaton,  and  many  others  are  remembered  now  by  the 
Masonic  Fraternity  with  fraternal  reverence. 

Tlie  Grand  Lodge  of  Masons,  after  holding  its  commun- 
ications alternately  in  Tarborongli,  Tlillsboro,  Newbern  and 
Fayettcville,  met  for  the  first  time  in  Raleigh,  on  the  3rd  day 
of  December,  1794.  It  has  since  held  its  Annual  Communi- 
cations in  Raleigh.  Many  of  our  worthy  citizens,  some  of 
whom  are  now  living,  have  been  and  are  3'et  active  mem- 
bers of  this  body.  There  are  many  interesting  facts  con- 
nected with  the  history  of  this  order  in  Raleigh,  which  I 
regret  cannot  be  given  to  you  on  this  occasion. 

CJIUKCHES.. 

¥oY  a  long  time  after  tlie  foundation  ol  the  city  the 
people  worshipped  in  the  Statediouse  or  the  Court-iiouse, 
only  too  glad  to  listen  to  the  teachings  of  the  missionary 
of  any  denomination  who  might  tavor  them  with  his  mini- 
■i>trations.  The  great  Methodist  Bishop  Asbury  records- 
that  he  officiated  in  the  former  place  in  1800.  When,  in. 
ISIO,  Dr.  Wm.  B.  McPheetei-s  was  employed  as  prin- 
cipal of  the  Raleigh  Academy,  it  was  announced  that  he 
was  likewise  engaged  as  "■  Pastor  of  the  City,"  and  traditioin 
hath  it  that  for  years  he  actually  exercised  this  great  charge 
with  a  wise  and  fearless  hand. 

The  tirst  church  edifice  in  the  city  was  erected  by 
Rev.  Wm.  Glendenning,  a  half  crazy  O'Kellyite  parson, 
who  made  money  enough  by  trading  on  week  days  to 
sup[)ort  himself  in  preaching  on  Sundays.  Thi.s  was 
wiiere  the  residence  of  Mr.  X.  S.  Harp  is  now. 

A  Methodist  church  of  wood  was  next  erected  on  the 
site  where  the  present  building  now  stands,  as  we  learn 
from  the  excellent  address  of  Prof.  A.  W.Mangum,on  the 
liistory  of  the  Methodist  Church  in  Raleigh.  A  Baptist 
church  was  built  in  1813  which  had  a  singular  history. 


(52) 

It  was  at  first  on  a  lot  east  of  the  Moore  square,  ''once 
called  Old  Bapti.it  Grove),  was  afterwards  moved  to  the 
square  and  was  used  by  all  the  Baptists  of  the  city  until 
1835.  A  lady  friend  remembers  when  each  ])ious  mem- 
ber, whenever  services  were  conducted  at  night,  carried 
his  or  her  individual  tallow  candle  to  aid  in  the  illumi- 
nation of  the  l)uilding- — ^which  illustrates  the  wonderful 
growth  of  that  denomination  in  the  city.  In  1835  there 
w-as  a  division  in  this  church  and  the  majority  holding 
the  building  joined  themselves  to  the  sect  called  "Chris- 
tians." They  gradually  dwindled  until  since  the  war, 
Mr.  Mark  Williams,  being  the  last  survivor,  sold  the 
building  to  a  colored  congregation  who  removed  it  to  a 
part  of  the  city  known  as  "Ilayti."  The  minority  built 
the  church  at  the  corner  of  Wilmington  and  JNIorgan 
streets,  which  was  afterwards  ])urchased  by  the  Catholics 
when  the  Baptists  erected  the  handsome  Salisbury  street 
building. 

The  Presb}' terian  church,  the  first  of  any  architectural 
pretensions,  was  finished  in  1817,  and  is  the  only  build- 
ing still  occupied  by  the  denomination  which  erected  it. 
It  was  used  with  true  christian  liberality  as  the  llouse 
of  Worship,  not  only  by  the  Presbyterians,  but  by  others. 
In  the  Farish  Registers  of  Christ's  Church,  we  find  an 
entry  by  Bishop  Ravenscroft  in  his  own  hand-writing  of 
the  baptism  in  the  Presbyterian  church,  in  presence  of  the 
congregation,  of  an  infant  son  of  Episcopal  parents,  who 
is  now  one'  of  the  most  trusted  officers  of  Christ  churcli. 

The  first  Episcopal  church  was  built  in  1829,  the  con- 
gregation before  that  time  occupying  a  house  known  as 
the  "Museum."  This  was  erected  by  Jacob  Marling, 
near  where  the  Citizens'  Bank  stands,  for  the  exhibition 
of  phantasmagaria,  minerals,  insects,  mechanical  inven- 
tions and  curosities,  for  a  visit  to  which  12A  cents  a  head 
was  charged.     The  Episcopalians  sold  their  building  to 


(53) 

tlie  colored  Methodists,  after  erectiiiii  their  j)resont  hand- 
some .c;ranite  structure. 

FlfiKS. 

It  was  in  iS-il  that  hre  c()m[)auies  were  lirst  authoriz- 
ed, and  in  I8-26  provision  was  made  for  drafting  in  case 
tliere  were  not  snflicient  volunteers.  An  engine  had,  lon<r 
ago,  as  early  as  1802,  been  i)urchased  by  voluntary  con- 
tribution. It  may  he  of  interest  to  some  of  my  firemen 
iViends  to  state  the  prices  of  seventy-four  years  ago. 

An  engine  for  24  hands,  tin-owing  ."iO  yards,  180  gallons 
per  minute,  8560. 

One  for  IS  hands,  throwing  100  gallons  per  minute. 
47  yards,  $414. 

One  for  1<)  hands,  throwing  44  yards,  Ml  gallons  per 
UHnute,  '^o74. 

The  cheapest  of  the  above  was  bought  lor  Raleigh. 

Tile  Rescue  Steam  Fire  Engine  can  throw  a  H  inch 
stream  a  vertical  height  of  120  feet,  (iOO  gallons  per 
minute. 

A  brief  notice  of  some  of  the  princi{»al  lires  in  Raleigh 
mav  not  be  without  interest,  and  may  serve  as  warninas- 

Raleigh  has  liad  an  uncommon  share  of  disasters  from 
fire.  All  of  Fayetteville  street,  on  botii  sides,  from  Martin 
to  the  Caj)itol  Square,  except  from  the  spot  where  Fraps' 
beer  garden  reminds  our  German  l)rethren  of  the  glories 
of  the  "  \^iterland,"  to  the  corner  where  the  Raleigh  Na- 
tional I>ank  reminds  us  that  the  time  was  when  monev 
could  be  borrowed  at  six  per  cent,  interest,  and  excepting 
one  other  house,  have  been  swept  b}'  fire,  some  parts 
twice,  others  three  or  four  times. 

The  first  great  fire  on  record  was  in  ISIG,  on  the  east 
side  of  Fayetteville  street,  extending  from  Martin  street 
to  Ilargett,  and  thence  nearly'  to  AVilmington  street. 
Zach.  Miller  owned  a  store  on  the  corner  of  Ilargett  and 


(54) 

Wilmington  streets.  He  hail  in  liis  house  ten  harreis  of 
vinegar  stored.  Not  having  water  vvherewitli  to  encoun- 
ter the  advancing  fiames,  he  dashed  upon  them  and  on 
his  smoking  walls  the  precious  apple  juice,  and  stayed 
their  progress.  My  informant,  our  old  friend,  John  K. 
Harrison,  tells  me  he  remembers  well  how  strangely  the 
yellow  fluid  looked  as  it  streamed  over  the  planks  and 
spluttered  in  the  flames.  The  ill-fated  water-works  here- 
to mentioned  were  the  result  of  this  fire  of  1816. 

In  1821  a  second  fire  broke  out  near  the  site  where  the 
market  house  stands,  an.d,  without  interruption,  the  flames 
rushed  to  Hargett  street,  sweeping  all  in  tlieir  r»ath. 
Here  they  leaped  across  to  the  opposite  corner  and  levelled 
to  the  earth  all  the  buildings  on  both  sides  of  Hargett, 
two  dreadful  jxirallel  columns  of  tire  to  Wilmington 
street.  I'hey  likewise  hurried  north  with  unchecked 
fury,  until  stoi)ped  by  the  unconquerable  energy  and 
pluck  of  a  Avoman. 

This  lady  deserves  especial  mention  on  an  occasion 
like  this.  Her  house  stood,  a  two  storied  wooden  buihl- 
ing,  where  Tucker's  handsome  hall  rears  its  iron  front. 
It  was  about  20  feet  from  the  nearest  house  on  the  south 
and  a  little  further  from  its  next  neighbor  on  tin  North. 

She  was  a  widow,  sister  of  our  venerable  old  friend  still 
living  (Mrs.  Lucas)  the  daughter  of  Casso,  who  has  been 
mentioned  as  keeper  of  one  of  the  principal  hotels.  By 
lier  unaided  exertions  in  keeping  a  private  boarding 
;house  she  w;is  rear.ncr  the  large  familv.  the  niembei-s  of 
■wdiich  are  among  our  best  citizens. 

Not  only  in  the  conflagration  of  which  I  speak,  but 
afterwards  when  the  fire  demon,  starting  from  tlie  corner 
luxt  to  Capitol  squitre,  moved  down,  levelling  all  the 
liouses  on  its  way,  and  assailed  her  from  the  north,  did 
this  heroic  woman  stand  like  a  bulwark  against  the  on- 
ward march  of  the  flames.  While  the  hearts  of  others 
failed,  hers  stood  firm.     While  strong   men  gazed,  helj>- 


(55) 

^ess  and  despairing-,  at  ihe  grand  but  awful  sight,  she 
sprang  forth  to  active  conflict  with  the  danger.  She 
:Spurrcd  on  the  lagging,  she  animated  the  faint  hearted, 
she  heeded  not  the  advancing  column  of  the  liames,  the 
falling  cinders,  the  suffocating  smoke,  the  crasliing  tim- 
bers; she  forgot  for  a  time  the  natural  timidity  of  her  sex. 
Armed  with  "wet  blankets  and  hastily  filled  buckets,  siie 
stood  in  the  very  jaws  of  the  terrible  heat,  until  others, 
.-shamed  into  action  by  the  recklessness  of  her  daring, 
lushed  to  her  aid.  Twice  she  conquered.  Twice  did  she 
save  from  destruction  her  own  propert}'  and  long  rows  of 
ilier  neighbors'  houses.  Among  her  contemporaries  her 
praise  was  in  the  mouths  of  all.  Let  our  young  men  and 
young  women  remend)er  the  deeds,  and  honor  the  name 
■of  Mrs.  Hannali  Stewart. 

It  will  grieve  you  all,  I  know,  to  learn  that,  twenty 
years  afterwards,  when  old  age  had  diminished  her 
strength,  she  was  again  assaulted  by  her  ancient  foe,  and 
.this  time  defeated.  A  fire  broke  out  in  Depkin's  shoe 
:shop,  the  nearest  house  on  the  north,  and  from  sudden - 
^icss  of  the  attack  and  the  direction  of  the  wind,  her 
•dwelling,  so  often  s-aved,  was  destroyed.  The  flames 
.again  swept  down  to  and  along  llargett  street,  until 
checked  within  one  house  of  Wilmington  street.  The 
Jiose  of  the  engine  was  burst  soon  after  it  was  brought 
into  action.  The  water  llowed  on  the  ground  and  mix- 
ing with  earth  formed  an  improm])tu  imitation  of  Fay- 
•etteville  street,  as  once  macadamized  by  the  transcendent 
genius  of  our  city  "commissioners,  with  thick  layers  of 
soft  red  clay  from  the  basement,  of  the  market  house. 
The  ready  witted  firemen  gathered  this  plastic  material  by 
handsfuU  and  buckets  full,  and  dashing  it  against  tiie 
walls  of  the  threatened  store,  formed  a  non-conductor,  im- 
pervious to  heat.  The  fire  was  extinguished  and  the 
grateful  citizens  dultbed,  I  should  say  (hmbcd,  this  heroic 


(56) 

band  as  the  "  mud  company,"  and  this  well-earned  name 
stuck  fast  up  to  the  day  of  its  dissolution. 

Those  tracing  titles  to  propert}^  are  often  perplexed  by 
inability  to  find  records  of  deeds  made  over  forty  years 
ago.  This  is  in  consequence  of  the  loss  of  twenty  registry 
books  in  a  disastrous  lire,  which  originated  in  the  store 
of  Richard  Smith,  the  county  Register,  which  was  located 
at  the  corner  where  an  excellent  friend  of  ours,  A. 
Creech,  sells  goods.  This  fire  was  caused  by  an  incen- 
diary, Benjamin  F.  Seaborn,  who  kindled  the  flame  in 
order  to  hide  his  theft  of  the  money  of  his  employer.  On 
this  occasion  all  the  buildings  on  the  west  side  of  Fay- 
etteville,  from  Hargett  street  to  the  Capitol  Square  were 
destroyed,  except  the  Newbern  banking  house,  now  the 
residence  of  ^r.  Haywood.  It  will  be  a  great  satisfaction 
10  the  lawyers,  when  groaning  over  thel  oss  of  the  registry 
books,  as  it  was  to  the  citizens  of  Raleigh,  to  know  that 
Seaborn,  afler  removing  hi?  trial  to  Fayetteville,  and  ob- 
taining, by  an  appeal  to  the  Supreme  Court,  an  excel- 
lent opinion  against  him  from  Judge  Ruffin,  was  hungv 
as  he  deserved  to  be. 

BURNING  OF  THE  CAPriOL. 

In  1831  occurred  an  event  of  momentous  consequence 
to  the  people  of  Raleigh,  which  not  only  caused  great  loss 
of  itself  but,  according  to  tradition,  came  near  ruining  the 
city.  This  was  the  burning  of  the  Capitol.  The  old  State 
House  way  constructed'in  1792.  It  was  described  as  whol- 
ly without  architectural  beauty,  an  ugly  mass  of  brick  and 
mortar.  Ii  was  repaired  in  1822,  under  the  supervision  of 
Capt.  AVm.  Nichols,  an  experienced  architect,  who  covered 
its  dingy  walls  with  stucco,  and  rendered  it  more  sightly 
by  the  addition  of  porticos  and  a  dome.  The  form  of  the 
building  was  similar  to  the  present  noble  granite  structure 


(r>7) 

which,  by  its  unpretending  but  stately  beauty,  fitly  repre- 
sents the  soUd  virtues  of  North  CaroUna  character. 

By  a  freak  of  liberality, unusual  in  those  good  old  days, 
when  the  State  never  spent  over  $90,000  a  year  for  all 
purposes,  when  taxes  were  six  cents  on  the  $100  value  of 
real  estate  only,  and  personal  property  was  entirely 
exempt,  the  General  Assembly  had  placed  in  the  rotunda 
a  magnificient  statue  of  A\'^ashington,  of  Carrata  marble, 
by  the  great  Canova,  It  was  the  pride  and  boast  of  the 
State.  Our  people  remembered  with  peculiar  pleasure 
that  La  Fayette  had  stood  at  its  base  and  commended 
the  beauty  of  the  carving  and  the  fitness  of  the  honor,  to 
the  great  man  under  whom  he  had  served  in  our  war  for 
Independence,  and  whom  he  regarded  witli  a  passionate 
and  reverential  love. 

The  carelessness  of  an  artisan  engaged  in  covering  the 
roof,  lost  this  great  work  of  art  to  the  State.  On  the 
morning  of  the  21st  of  June,  1831,  while  the  sun  shone 
bright  in  the  heavens,  flames  were  seen  issuing  from  the 
roof  The  owls  and  flying  squirrels,  which  had  built  their 
nests  among  the  rafters,  hastened  through  the  ventilator 
to  escape  from  the  doomed  building,  followed  by  thick 
smoke  and  then  by  bright  flame.  With  no  such  power- 
ful machine  as  the  Rescue  engine,the  progress  of  the  fire 
was  unchecked.  A  few  citizens,  incited  by  a  gallant  little 
lady,  Miss  Betsy  Geddy,  who  had  all  the  spirit  of  her  Re- 
volutionary fathers,  endeavored  with  frantic  haste  to  re- 
move the  statue.  But  its  great  weight  was  too  much  for 
their  strength.  They  were  forced  to  witness  its  desiruction. 
Fort}^  years  have  not  erased  from  iheir  memories  the 
splendors  of  the  closing  scene  of  this  drama.  For  man}' 
minutes,  like  its  great  original,  serene  and  unmoved 
among  the  fires  of  Monmouth  or  of  Trenton,  the  statue 
stood,  the  central  figure  of  numberless  blazing  torches, 
untouched  and  majestic,  every  lineament  and  feature  and 
graceful  darpery  white — hot  and  of  supernatural  brill- 


(5S) 

iancy  and  beauty.  Then  suddenly  the  burning  timbers 
fell,  and  the  master-piece  of  Canova,  was  a  mass  of  broken 
fragments. 

ROCKY  EKANCII    NAVIGABLE. 

I  have  said  that,  according  to  tradition,  this  tire  came 
near  raining  our  city.  Haywood  was  in  old  times  an 
ambitious  little  village,  situate  as  you  know,  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Haw  and  Deep  rivers.  The  digging  of  the 
Erie  canal  across  the  State  of  New  York,  and  the  great 
increase  to  the  commerce  and  wealth  of  New  York  City, 
caused  thereby,  aroused  a  wild,  speculative  fever  on  the 
subject  of  canal  and  navigation  works  throughout  the 
whole  country.  Civil  engineers  could  not  be  manufact- 
ured fast  enough  to  supply  the  demand.  In  this  State, 
so  eager  were  the  statesmen  of  the  day,  headed  by  Judge 
Murphy,  President  of  the  Board  of  Internal  Improve- 
ments, to  realize, the  vast  benefits  to  accrue  from  the 
navigation  of  our  water  courses,  that  Peter  Browne,  the 
eminent  lawyer,  then  in  Scotland,  wasauthorized  to  send 
■out  an  engineer  at  any  price  for  which  he  could  be  ob- 
tained. In  those  days  of  low  salaries,  when  the  Secretary 
of  State  and  Treasurer  received  only  a  few  hundred  dol- 
lars per  annum,  the  Intendant  of  Police  in  Raleigh  noth- 
ing, and  all  the  Clergymen  of  the  county  of  Wake  put 
together  only  received  i?3,.500.  Mr.  Browne,  an  able,  hard- 
headed,  long  headed  and  5^7 ware-headed  Scotchman,  was 
obliged  to  pay  $6,000  per  year  in  gold,  salary  to  Mr. 
Hamilton  Fulton,  for  his  services.  Great  works  were  pro- 
jected. Tar  River  was  to  be  made  navigable  to  Louis- 
burg.  The  corn  and  wheat  of  the  Yadkin  Valley  as  high 
as  Wilkes,  of  the  Broad  River,  in  Rutherford,  of  Haw 
River  in  Alamance,  of  Neuse  River,  up  to  Orange  county, 
of  the  Roanoke  and  Dan,  up  to  tiie  county  of  Stokes,  of 
Deep  River  to  the  interior  of  Randolph,  were  to  be  trans- 


(59) 

■ported  to  the  ocean  in  ennal  boats.  A  dam  across  Koa- 
iioke  Sound  \va=!  to  force  the  water  to  re  open  Nag's TTead 
Inlet. 

T  have  before  me  tlie  estimate  for  connecting  Kocky 
Branch  at  tlieFayctteville  road  crossing,  at  Tucker's  Mill, 
with  the  ocean,  by  way  of  Walnut  creek  and  Neuse  river. 
The  fall  from  the  I'^iyetteville  road  to  Neuse  river  is 
■seventy-four  feet  three  inches.  The  distance  is  ten  miles 
four  furlongs  and  eleven  rods.  From  the  mouth  of  Walnut 
creek  to  Major  Turner's  ferry  (below  Smithfield)  the  des- 
cent is  60  feet,  S  inches.  The  distance  is  .'51  miles,  (!  fur- 
longs 8  yards. 

1  have  also  the  survey  from  the  Kimbrough  Jones 
l)ridge  down  Crab  tree  to  Neuse  river.  The  descent  is 
oidy  23  feet  10  inches,  the  distance  8  miles  0  furlongs,  11 
ynrds. 

The  engineer  advises  against  making  Walnut  creek 
and  Rocky  branch  navigable  for  4  reasons.  1st,  the 
sinuosities,  2d,  the  number  of  dams  and  locks  required  to 
overcome  the  fall,  od,  the  flatness  and  width  of  the  val- 
leys, 4th  the  purchase  of  tlie  lowlands  flooded. 

But  Mr.  Fulton  sees  no  difliculty  in  making  Crabtree 
navigable.  I  have  his  estimates  includiiiiz  a  rail  road 
from  Raleigh  to  the  creek  at  thelvimbrough  .Jones  bridge. 
Total  $35,25.",. 

The  Engineer  seems  to  recommend  a  railway  (or  tram- 
way) from  Raleigh  to  Neuse  river  9  miles,  making  the 
total  cost  of  connecting  Raleigh  with  the  ocean  $27,87'^>. 

To  us  who  have  witnessed  so  many  failures  in  naviga- 
tion works  it  seems  strange  that  sensible  men  should  have 
credited  these  estimates,  yet  they  were  credited  and  acted 
•on.  We  had  a  Neuse  River  Navigation  Company  in 
which  our  people  took  stock,  paid  in  their  money  and 
elected  their  oflicers.  They  built  boats  and  launched 
them.  Mr.  James  II.  Murray  so  long  known  among  us 
i\s  the  fearless  and  incorruptible  Constable  of  the  city,  as 


(60) 

Captain  of  a  flat-boat,  made  one  trip  from  Stone's  (now 
W.  R.  Pool's)  mill  on  the  Xeuse  to  Newbern,  and  after 
many  and  tedious  da}'  she  retuined.  And  that  was  the 
end  of  makin.2;  Raleigh  a  seaport  town. 

To  those  who  indulged  in  all  these  visions,  Ilaj'woody 
•at  the  confluence  of  the  Haw  and  the  Deep,  seemed  to  be 
the  exact  spot  for  building  a  new  London,  or  Paris,  Liver- 
pool or  Glasgow,  New  York  or  Philadelphia.  It  was  a 
central  point,  certainly  to  be  joined  to  the  ocean,  tlie 
land  high,  health}^  and  suitable  to  the  location  of  a  city. 
It  seemed  so  certain  that  Haywood  should  be  the  metroj)- 
olis  of  North  Carolina  that  many  of  the  leading  men  of 
that  day  bought  lots  and  hoped  to  be  millionaires. 

When  therefore  after  the  burning  of  the  Capitol  in 
1831,  the  General  Assembly  was  called  on  for  appropria- 
tions to  re-build,  in  such  a  manner  as  not  to  incur  the 
risk  of  loss  by  fire,  the  new  State  house,  Hugh  McQueen, 
of  Chatham,  put  in  a  claim  for  Haywood.  It  is  true 
Raleigh  was  fixed,  unalterable  except  b}^  a  convention  of 
the  people.  But  then  a  new  convention  was  shortly  to 
be  held.  It  is  firmly  believed  among  our  old  people  that 
Haywood  failed  by  only  one  vote.  I  must  confess  that  I 
am  unable  to  verify  this  legend.  It  is  true  that  in  Dec. 
1831  the  proposal  to  rebuild  the  Capitol  in  Union 
square  was  voted  down  68  to  65  in  the  House  of  Com- 
mans,  but  that  does  not  prove  that  a  |)ro})Osa]  to  build  at 
Haywood  would  have  been  carried  b}'  the  same  vote. 
Certain  it  is  that  in  Dec.  loth  1831,  the  bill  to  appro- 
priate $50,000  towards  rebuilding  the  Capitol  here  passed 
the  House  by  73  to  GO  and  the  Senate  by  35  to  28. 

KEBUILDIX(i  OF  S'I'ATE-HOUSE. 

The  State  house  of  Raleigh  (the  old  acts  call  it  by  this 
name,borrowed  from  our  Holland  allies,  thenameCapitol 
borrowed  from  Rome  is  of  later  growth),  is  a  signal  ex- 


(CI) 

nmple  of  Legislature;^.  "  building  better  than  they  knevv." 
It  was  well  known  at  the  date  of  the  first  appropriation 
that  the  inexperienced  members  of  the  interior  counties 
fully  expected  that  the  sum  of  $50,000  would  complete 
the  new  edifice  and  have  it  ready  for  occupany  in  a  year 
or  two.  The  old  building  of  r7*.>2,  of  brick  from  the 
})ul)lic  brick-yard  on  lots  No.  loS  and  lol  was,  by  the  act, 
to  cost  onl}^  S20,00().  The  repairing  of  the  same,  the  ad- 
dition of  porticos,  it c,  in  ISli)  was  paid  for  out  of  the 
sale  of  the  public  lands  east  of  the  city  and  that  cost  was 
not  known.  If  $20,000  could  build  a  house  in  1792,  why 
could  not  $50,000  in  1832? 

The  first  commissioners  were  among  our  strongest  and 
best  men,  "William  Boylan,  Duncan  Cameron,  AV'illiam 
S.  Mhoon,  Henry  Seawell  and  liomulus  M.  Saunders. 

They  were  succeeded  by  such  eminent  men  as  Samuel 
F.  Patterson,  Beverly  Daniel,  Charles  AHuily.  Alfred 
Jones,  Charles  L.  Plinton. 

These  commissioners  were  enlightened  men  and  de 
serve  great  credit  for  their  jierservance  and  courage 
in  giving  us  a  building  worthy  of  the  State.  Demagogues 
criticised  them,  Legislative  committees  carped  at  them, 
but  they  were  in  all  respects  sustained  not  only  by  the 
Legislatures,  but  bv  the  people. 

I  am  enabled  to  give  you  the  cost  of  the  building  as 
finally  summed  up  in  1S40,  viz:  $530,084.15. 

I  have  found  and  copied  a  full  description  by  David 
Paton,  who,  after  the  first  year  or  two,  became  the 
architect.  1  will  not  I'cad  the  whole  but  will  mention 
now  that  the  building  is  100  x  140  feet.  It  is  04.]  fee^ 
high  to  top  of  dome;  to  apex  of  the  j)ediment,  G4  feet. 
The  columns  are  5  feet  2\  inches  m  diameter  and  30  feet 
high.  The  entablature,  including  blockinL^  is  12  feet 
high.  The  columns  and  entablature  are  Grecian-Doric, 
copied  from  the  Parthenon  at  Athens.  The  dome  is  de- 
corated after  the  manner  of  the  monument  called   the 


(02) 

Lantern  of  Demostlienes.  The  lobbies  and  bull  of  the 
House  of  Representatives  have  columns  and  antiis  model- 
ed after  the  Octagon  Tower  of  Andronicus  Cyrrhestes, 
and  the  plan  of  the  hall  is  that  of  a  Greek  Theatre. 

COMPLETION  OF  K.  ct  G-  R.  R. 

The  same  year  that  the  Capitol  was  finished,  the  lirst  lo- 
comotive steamed  to  Raleigh  over  the  Raleigh  and  Gaston 
Railroad.  The  name  of  the  locomotive,  the  Tornado,  ex- 
pressed fitly  the  wild  excitement  which  swept  through  the 
bosoms  of  the  people.  It  was  determined  to  hold  a  cele- 
bration in  honor  of  the  double  event,  the  completion  of 
the  Railroad  and  completion  of  the  Cnj>ito!. 

For  three  days  in  June  was  this  celebration  held.. 
Everybody's  door  was  thrown  wide  open.  From  distant 
counties,  from  the  cities  of  \^irginia,  men,  women  and 
children  flocked  in  to  see  the  new  wonder.  Rufhn's; 
Richmond  band  discoursed  sweet  music  for  the  occasion ,. 
The  Tornado  wao  constantly  employed  in  making  ex- 
cursion trips  into  the  country  for  the  delectation  of  visit 
ors.  A  grand  procession  under  the  marshalling  of  Gen.. 
Beverly  Daniel,  marched  IVoui  the  Court  house  to  the; 
depot. 

There,  on  tive  tables  each  90  feet  long,  wasspre"!  i. 
mighty  dinner,  j^repared  by  the  best  etfbrts  of  Mrs.  liui 
nab  Stewart.  Gov,  Dudley  wn.s  President.  AVeston  R.. 
Gales  was  toastniaster.  The  Vice-Presidents  were  Gas- 
ton, Iredell,  Branch,  Bryan,  Ilinton,  Mordecai,  Patterson^ 
Dr.  Jos.  AV.  Hawkins,  Dr.  Watson  Dupuy.  There  weie- 
13  regular  toasts,  and  70  volunteer  toasts.  Speeches  grave 
and  gay,  eloquent  and  witty,  were  delivered.  -ludge- 
Gaston's  speech  was  worthy  of  the  finest  orators  of  the- 
century. 

At  night  thetrees  of  the  Capitol  square  were  illuminated; 
with   colored  lamps,  and    similar  lamps   on  P\ayetteville 


(63) 

street  made  a  splendid  vista  oi'brilliaiicy,  terminated  by  the 
Capitol  and  the  Governor's  Mansion,  whoreevery  window 
was  a  blaze  of  light.  Every  important  house  in  the  city 
was  illuminated.  Gorgeous  transparencies  could  be  every 
where  seen.  One  was  a  representation  of  the  Capitol,  an- 
other of  a  Locomotive,  another  of  mountains  and  the  sea. 
Gay  couples  danced  in  Commons  Hall  under  the  light  of 
the  old  chandelier,  while  in  the  Senate  chamber  the 
more  staid  talked  over  the  great  wonders  of  the  Iron 
Horse,  the  splendid  architecture  around  them,  the  Presi- 
dential Campaign  on  which  they  were  entering. 

THE  FIRST  RAILROAD    IN  NORTH  CAROLINA. 

One  of  the  toasts  given  at  the  grand  dimior  was  sent  b_y" 
Mr.  Wm,  I'eck.  Tt  was  "  to  the  distinguished  female  who- 
suggested  the  construction  of  the  Experimental  Railroa(.l.. 
She  well  deserves  a  name  among  the  benefactors  of  the 
fetate." 

The  Kaleigh  Experimental  Railroad  Avas  the  first  at- 
tempt at  a  railroad  built  in  North  Carolina.  It  was  a  cheap 
strap  iron  tramway,  costing  $22p0  per  mile.  It  was  the 
suggestion  of  Mrs.  Sarah  Polk,  the  widow  of  Col.  Wm.  Polk, 
and  the  mother  of  Bishop  Polk.  She  l)ecame  the  principal 
stockholder,  which  showed  lior  liaancial  judgment,  for  it 
paid  over  three  hundred  per  cent.  Capt.  Daniel  H.  Bing- 
ham was  the  Engineer,  an  accomplished  scholar  who 
taught  a  mihtary  school  in  Saunders'  house,  on  Ilillsboro 
street,  and  was  assisted  by  two  of  his  advanced  students — 
Dr.  R.  B.  Haywood,  of  this  city,  and  Col.  Wm.  C.  Abbott, 
of  Mississippi.  The  road  ran  from  the  east  pociUfn  of  the 
Capitol  to  the  stone  quarry,  turning  to  the  right  at  the' 
Ilutchings  House  until  it  reached  the  middle  of  the  ridge^ 
a  hundred  yards  south  of  Xewbern  Avenue  ;  thence  down 
said  ridge  to  within  iifty  yards  of  Camp  Russel ;  thence 
bending  to  the  right,  ruiming  under  the  site  of  Lambright's- 


(04) 

Beer  Garden,  and  so  on  to  the  qnany.  Quite  a  deep  cut 
was  made  in  the  Capitol  square,  which  was  afterwards  filled 
np  with  the  debris  of  the  yard.  A  six  foot  embankment 
was  raised  in  front  of  Dr.  Little's  residence,  and  a  part  of 
the  embankment  is  yet  visible  at  the  Hutchings  House,  a 
row  of  elms  having  been  planted  on  it.  It  was  finished 
January  1st,  1833,  and  a  handsome  car  was  put  on  it,  as 
was  announced,  "for  the  accommodation  of  such  ladies 
and  gentlemen  as  desired  to  take  the  exercise  of  a  railroad 
airing."  The  motive  power  was  a  good  old  horse  that  was 
warranted  not  to  run  away.  People  came  from  the  adjoin- 
ing counties  to  avail  themselves  of  this  opportunity,  and 
the  passenger  car  often  interfered  with  the  regular  car  for 
iiauling  stone. 

REMOVAL    OF    THE    MARKET. 

The  market  house  was,  in  the  early  part  of  the  century, 
a  small  octagonal  house  in  the  middle  of  Fayetteville 
street.  It  was  afterwards  on  Hargett  street,  between  Fay- 
etteville and  Wilmington.  Shops  for  the  sale  of  spirit- 
uous liquors  clustered  around  it  in  such  numbers  that 
tliis  portion  was  called  "  Grog  Alle}^  " — the  scene  of  much 
drinking  and  disorder,  of  many  a  fisticuff  figlit  and  oc- 
casionally a  homicide.  A  party  was  formed  for  the  re- 
moval of  the  market  to  its  present  location,  which  party 
after  a  fierce  struggle,succeeded  in  carrying  the  municipal 
election  in  1840.  The  conquerors  were  so  elated  that 
they  marched  through  "  Grog  Alley  "  with  torches  and 
shouts  of  victory.  This  so  irritated  the  valorous  inhabi- 
tants of  that  place  of  resort  that  a  bloody  riot  ensued,  the 
only  riot  in  the  history  of  the  city.  Brickbats  and  other 
missiles  flew  so  furiously  that  the  victors  retreated  in 
great  disorder  without  the  loss  of  a  man.  It  was  in  this 
battle  that  the  expression  "who  struck  l>illy  Patterson," 
arose.  Patterson  being  a  noted  free  negro  of  stuttering 
fame,  who  Avas  smitten  b}'  an  unknown  assailant. 


(Ga) 

This  new  Market  liouse  was  burnt  in  1865  and  the 
"Market  house  debt"  of  $50,000,  now  afflicting  the  city, 
was  incurred  in  erecting  the  present  building. 

GROWTH  OF  THE  CITY. 

The  increase  of  population  and  risein  value  of  property 
since  the  beginning  of  the  century  need  some  mention. 

The  total  population  in  1807  was  726. 

In  1810  this  had  increased  to  976. 

Thirty  years  after,  in  1840,  we  find  the  population 
2,240,  very  little  over  twice  as  much  in  thirty  years. 

In  1850,  however,  we  find  the  population  4,518,  having 
increased  as  much  in  ten  years  as  it  had  done  before  in 
thirty. 

This  increase  was  probably  due  to  the  certainty  of  Ral- 
eigh's continuing  to  be  the  seatof  Government,  caused 
by  the  completion  of  the  Capitol  and  to  the  increased 
communication  caused  by  the  finishing  of  the  Raleigh 
and  Gaston  Railroad. 

But  the  city  seems  to  have  stood  still  in  the  decade  from 
1850  to  1860,  increasing  only  to  4,780  in  the  aggregate. 
Indeed  as  the  corporate  limits  were  extended  in  1856,  the 
inference  seems  to  be  that  there  was  a  positive   decrease. 

In  1870,  however,  the  number  is  proved  to  be  7,700, 
and  in  1876  it  is  generally  supposed  to  be  over  10,000. 

In  1870,  Raleigh  township,  being  a  square  whose  sides 
are  distant  one  mile  from  the  Capitol,  had  2,379  inhabi- 
tants, besides  those  in  the  corporate  limits,  so  that  the 
population  of  Raleigh,  including  those  living  in  its  out- 
skirts and  contributing  to  its  wealth,  was  10,169. 

In  1860  this  outside  population  was  very  small  in  com- 
parison to  that  of  1870. 

I  conclude  that  Raleigh  more  than  doubled  in  the  de- 
cade from  1860  to  1870,  nearly  all  of  which  increase  was 


(GG) 

after  1865,  and  certainly   there  has  been  a  marked  in- 
crease since  1 870. 

The  increase  in  the  value  of  property  in  Raleigh  has 
been  striking,  especially  in  localities  near  the  market 
house. 

The  lot  on  the  corner  of  Martin  and  Wilmington, 
streets,  on  part  of  which  the  Adams'  building  rears  its 
imposing  front,  140  by  120,  was  bought  for  $2,500  in 
November,  1851.  In  February,  1874,  nine-fourteenths  of 
it  were  sold  for  $15,050,  at  the  rate  of  over  $22,000  for 
the  whole. 

The  ground  where  the  Citizens'  National  Bank  stands 
was  bought  about  thirty  years  ago  for  $2,200.  It  was 
sold  at  auction  in  18G8  for  $8,200. 

The  southeast  corner  of  Fayetteville  and  Martin  streets 
was  bought  by  Dr.  F.  J.  Haywood  in  1 838  for  $750,  and 
sold  in  1872  for  $10,000  cash.  It  has  been  rented  as  high 
since  the  war  as  $1,200  per  year  and  generally  at  $800 
$1,000. 

The  lot  fronting  105  feet  on  Fayetteville  street,  owned 
by  the  late  E.  B.  Freeman,  was  bought  about  1858  for 
$3,500.     It  was  sold  in  1875  for  $7,100. 

Various  vacant  lots,worth  before  the  war,  $400  or  $500 
to  $800  have  been  easily  sold  since  the  war  at  $2,000  to 
$3,000  per  acre. 

The  half  acre  where  Dr.  Wm.  Little  lives  between 
Newbern,""  Blount  and  Edenton  streets,  was  bought  in 
1838  for  $500.  It  was  sold  two  or^three  years  ago  for  $2,- 
000  cash. 

The  Bank  lot,  including  this  half  acre,  sold  for  $4,500 
in  1838.     In  1867  it  brought  $11,025  at  auction. 

The  increase  of  the  trade  of  the  city  has  been  as  as- 
tonishing as  the  rise  of  property.  The  cotton  trade  of 
Raleigh  has  increased  from  500  to  600  bales  10  years  ago 

to bales  in  1875  and  during  this  year  the  trade  will 

handle  over  40,000  bales  and  the  receipts  are  increasing 


(07)    . 

ever}'  year — about  fifteen  counties  sending  their  produc- 
tions to  us. 

Tile  dry  goods  trade  lias  advanced  in  astonishing  ratio. 
"When  in  1852  AV,  II.  &  R.  S.  Tucker,  who  have  been 
pioneers  in  mercantile  adventure  knoclied  out  the  parti- 
tion of  their  old  store,  now  used  by  the  Express  Corn- 
pan}',  and  increased  its  length  to  100  feet,  they  were 
looked  on  as  so  daring  that  an  old  kinsman  refused  on 
this  account  to  be  surety  on  their  papei".  When  after  the 
war  in  ISGG  they  further  dared  to  construct  Tucker  Ilall, 
the  finest  store  in  the  State,  they  equally  defied  what 
some  thought  the  rule  of  prudence.  But  in  each  case  the 
success  justified  the  venture.  Their  sales  have  been  .300 
per  cent,  over  what  they  were  before  the  war. 

The  noble  buildings  along  Fayetteville  and  Martin 
streets,  the  Briggs  Building,  the  Fisher  Building,  the 
Holleman  Building,  the  Adams  Building,  the  State  Na- 
tional Bank,  the  Andrews  Building,  the  Citizens'  Bank 
Building,  the  enlargement  of  the  Yarborough  House,  the 
ISTational  Hotel,  the  completion  of  Peace  Institute  and 
Baptist  Seminary,  and  many  smaller,  but  in  the  aggre- 
gate, very  important  edifices,  and  the  magnificent  private 
residences  on  Blount  and  other  streets,  together  with 
countless  cheaper  dwellings  in  all  parts  of  the  city,  the 
homes  of  the  rich  as  well  as  of  our  mechanics,  show  that 
we  have  entered  on  a  new  era  of  prosperity.  The  gener- 
al grocery  and  hardware  business  have  grown  so 
enormously  that  it  may  be  said  they  have  been  created 
within  the  last  ten  years. 

And  all  this  improvement  is  in  despite  of  the  want  of 
banking  capital. 

The  total  banking  capital  of  Raleigh  is  only  $(300,000. 
As  the  bonds  required  under  the  National  banking  act 
for  the  issue  of  currency  were  of  necessity  bought  in  New 
York,  and  as  the  maximum  currency  allowed  to  be  issu- 
ed is  ninety  per  cent,  of  the  bonds,  the  banks  actually 


(68) 

sent  out  of  the  community  considerably  more  money 
than  they  brought  in.  The  Bank  of  North  Carolina  had 
$2,500,000  capital,  and  after  parceling  off  to  thebranches 
what  they  required  could,  before  the  war,  reserve  for  Ral- 
eigh what  our  people  needed.  In  those  days  a  solvent 
man  could  always  get  money  in  bank  on  proper  securit}^ 
at  six  per  cent.  Since  the  war  the  percentage  has  been 
as  high  often  as  18  and  24  per  cent,  and  frequently  can 
not  be  had  at  any  price,  not  even  with  the  best  collaterals. 

Great  foitunes  measured  by  a  North  Carolina  standard, 
have  been  accumulated  b}'  industry  and  thrift  in  Ral- 
eigh. For  the  encouragement  of  young  men  I  will  give 
some  striking  instances,  not  mentioning  any  living  per- 
son. 

The  late  William  Boylan  must  have  been  worth  nearl}* 
a  million  when  he  died.  The  foundation  of  it  was  laid 
here.  Part  of  this  however  was  in  the  increase  of  slaves, 
which  in  some  instances  was  very  great.  In  the  first  place 
the  intrinsic  value  advanced.  The  highest  price  I  can 
find  paid  for  the  best  man  about  1801  was  $425.  In 
18G0,  $1,500  was  not  uncommon.  But  the  natural  in- 
crease in  the  number  of  slaves  was  often  enormous.  Mr. 
Boylan  some  years  ago  gave  $300  for  a  young  woman 
and  talked  about  suing  the  seller  for  her  unsoundness. 
That  woman  had  twenty-four  children,  fifteen  of  whom 
grew  up  and  were  valuable.  Gov.  Swain  had  a  woman 
who  was  a  grand  mother  at  the  age  of  twenty -six.  But 
there  are  striking  cases  of  great  accumulation  of  wealth 
where  it  was  not  in  negro  property. 

Mr.  Ruffin  Tucker  came  into  Raleigh  as  a  clerk  at  a 
salary  of  $25  per  year.  He  was  obliged  to  furnish  his  own 
candles.  His  employer  thought  sunlight  cheaper.  He 
died  possessing  a  large  estate,  part  of  which  was  the  very 
store  where  he  had  commenced  life  so  j)lainly. 

William  and  Joseph  Peace  made  all  their  large  estate 
bv  merchandising  in  Raleigh,  and  the  rise  of  city  prop- 


(GO) 

erty.  And  Richard  Smith  started  life  as  an  humble  clerk. 
The  real  estate  he  left  is  worth  largely  over  $100,000. 

And  there  are  divers  men  in  Raleigh,  worth  now  from 
$50,000  to  $80,000,  who  at  the  end  of  the  war  had  not  a 
twentieth  part  of  it.  Let  my  young  friends  remember 
that  it  is  extravagance  which  ruins  so  many  fortunes. 
Micawber  sums  up  it  up  exactly:  "Annual  income  £20; 
annual  expenditures  £19.10.^.  Result,  happiness.  Annual 
income  £20  ;  annual  expenditure  £20.10s.  Result,  misery. 
The  God  of  Night  goes  down  on  the  cheerful  day.  In 
fact  you  are  floored. 

I  must  bring  this  series  of  .sketches  to  a  close,  leaving 
much  unsaid  of  great  interest  and  value.  It  would  be  a 
pleasing  task,  if  I  had  time,  to  continue  the  history  of  the 
institutionsofour  city  to  the  present.  I  would  like  to  tell  of 
more  of  the  great  and  good  men  who  have  resided  among 
us,  learned  divines,  members  of  the  bar,  of  the  medical 
fraternity,  of  the  counting  house,  of  the  woikshop  ;  of  the 
ladies  who  were  distinguished  in  church,  in  the  social 
circle,  in  charitable  work,  in  the  instruction  of  youth.  I 
would  like  to  give  the  history  of  the  Tress  of  Raleigh 
from  the  Register^i\\Q  3Iinerva,ihe  Star, down  to  the  news- 
papers of  our  day  ;  of  the  schools,  male  and  female,  which, 
since  the  days  of  McPheeters,  have  done  so  much  good 
in  the  land  ;  of  their  teachers,  especially  of  those,  my 
preceptors,  whom  I  remember  so  afFectionatel\%  Rev. 
Edwin  Gier,  John  Y.  Ilicks,  Silas  Bigelow,  and  that 
nestor  of  the  school-room,  still  pursuing  his  honorable 
calling,  J.  M.  Lovejoy  ;  of  the  Episcopal  school  for  boys, 
under  the  late  learned  Librarian  of  the  Astor  Library  of 
Xew  York  and  Rev.  Dr.  Curtis,  distinguished  as  a  bota- 
nist among  all  the  savans  of  the  world — and  then  of  St. 
Mary's  school  for  girls,  which,  under  Rev.  Dr.  Smedes, 
has  been  shedding  abroad  its  light  for  thirty-five  years, 
and  of  those  other  excellent  schools  of  more  recent  origin. 
Peace  Institute,  under  Rev.  Dr.  Burwell,and  the  Baptist 


(70) 

Female  Seminary,  under  Prof.  Hobgood.  I  would  like 
to  describe  the  beginnings  and  progress  of  the  societies 
of  Raleigh ;  the  Masonic  order,  the  Odd  Fellows,  Knights 
of  Pythias,  Sons  of  Temperance,  Friends  of  Temperance, 
Good  Templars — the  Fire  Companies,  Military  Compa- 
nies, Insurance  Companies.  A  sketch  of  the  Banks  of 
Raleigh,  of  the  progress  of  the  Churches,  of  the  Cem- 
eteries, would  be  instructive,  and  then  I  would  like  to 
narrate  the  trials  of  our  people  in  the  great  civil  war, 
of  its  occupation  b}'  the  armies  of  the  Confederacy  and 
by  the  armies  of  the  Union,  of  the  part  taken  by  our 
boys  in  that  great  strife,  their  victories,  their  defeats, 
their  sufferings,  their  deaths.  And  then  I  would  give — 
I  give  it  now,  with  my  whole  heart — -a  sentiment  uttered 
with  great  enthusiasm  at  a  dinner  had  March  loth,  1815, 
after  peace  with  Great  Britain  was  declared : 

"To  THE  HEPxOES  ON  EACH  SIDE  wlio  havc  fallen  in  the 
late  war.  The  memory  of  the  brave  is  consecrated  by 
the  love  of  their  countrymen  and  hallowed  by  the  ad- 
miration of  the  world." 

The  great  civil  war  is  like  a  mighty  flood  between  the 
old  time  and  the  new.  The  habits  and  ways  of  the 
Raleigh  of  thirty  years  ago  are  becoming  unknown 
among  us ;  they  are  mere  matters  of  tradition  to  our 
children.  They  are  passing  away,  those  dear,  good,  kind- 
ly-loving people  of  the  old  school.  Many  have  crossed 
the  deep  and  dark  river,  and  have  been  lifted  up  the 
farther  banks  by  the  angels  of  light.  A  iew  still  linger, 
their  feet  almost  touching  the  swift  water  as  it  rushes 
past.  Let  us  who  are  taking  their  place  among  the  old 
folks  of  Raleigh  strive  to  follow  their  virtues  and  reap 
their  reward. 

I  have  known  Raleigh  well  for  thirty-six  years.  She 
has  been  a  loving  mother  to  me.  Her  people  have  been 
to  me  as  brothers  and  sisters.  Stern,  imperious  duty  will 
soon  demand  my  most  active  labors  elsewhere.     I  feel  I 


(71) 

will  carry  your  good  wishes  with  me.  I  know  I  will  nev- 
er abate  my  good  will  and  affection  for  you.  If  I  have 
contributed  in  any  degree  to  arouse  your  feelings  of  city 
pride,  to  infuse  into  any  of  you  one  glorious  resolve  to 
be  worthy  of  our  good  city's  past,  to  lift  her  to  a  higher 
position  among  the  foci  of  civilization  and  religion,  I  will 
have  reaped  my  reward. 


ERRATA 


On  page  34,  for  ^^ seven  hundred"  read  '^ei(/ht  hundred." 

40,  for  "  Americus  "  read  "AilllLllb."   6'^t.W<-^<-C*<-^C'^4*^ 
"        47,  for  " Confederate />r?ces  "  read  "Confederate  c'!frre?«^y." 
"•        57.  for  "carrata"  read  "carrara." 
"        63,  near  the  bottom,  for  "east  portion  "  read  '•  east  portico." 


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