A sketch of Toppesfield Parish, Essex Co., England

A SKETCH OF

TOPPESFIELD PARISH, ESSEX CO., ENGLAND,

BY REV. H. B. BARNES,

Rector of St. Margaret's,

AND

THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

TOPPESFIELD PARISH, ESSEX CO., ENGLAND,

BY PHILIP MORANT, CHELMSFORD, 1816.

Annotated and Edited
BY GEORGE FRANCIS DOW,

Secretary of the Essex Institute, Salens Mass.; Secretary of

the Topsfield [Mass.] Historical Society; Member of

the America^ Historical Association

Reprinted from the Topsfield, Mass., 250th Anniversary Proceedings.

TOPSFIELD,
I90O.

A SKETCH OF

TOPPESFIELD PARISH, ESSEX CO., ENGLAND,

BY REV. H. B. BARNES,

Rector of St. Margaret's,

AND

THE HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF

TOPPESFIELD PARISH, ESSEX CO., ENGLAND,

BY PHILIP MORANT, CHELMSFORD, 1816.

Annotated and Edited
BY GEORGE FRANCIS DOW,

Secretary of the Essex Institute, Salem., Mass.; Secretary of

the Topsfield (Mass.) Historical Society; Member of

the Americain Historical Association

Reprinted from the Topsfield, Mass., 250th Anniversary Proceedings.

£(Je (UtemW (press,

TOPSFIELD,
I9OO.

V

*>

•/

A SKETCH OF TOPPESFIELD PARISH,
ESSEX CO., ENGLAND.

BY REV. H. B. BARNES, RECTOR OF ST. MARGARETS.

For the last six months I have been trying to gather
material for a sketch of the history of ancient Toppesfield.
The work would be by no means easy even for an expert,
for there appear to have been no previous workers in this
field, from whom to gather without toil that which must in
the first instance have been discovered at the cost of much
time and labour.

Of course the chronicler has the old records on the
tombs, the old account books, as well as the old registers,
which he can always consult, and which probably would
reveal tales of deepest interest to any one who has leisure to
study them, and experience and skill to understand the
meaning of that which is written in these old-world records,
but the present writer confesses with sorrow that even had
he the time to spare he has not got the skill ; but he hopes
that he is no dog in the manger; so should any one (and
especially any one interested in the connection between
Topsfield and Toppesfield) wish to work up all that can be
learned from these original documents, he may count on being
met with the heartiest welcome, and the fullest help that can
be rendered.

(0

2 THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

As then, (in the absence of other men's writings from
which to steal, and of ability to make original researches)
it is impossible to write any account of ancient Toppesfield
which shall not be of an imaginative rather than an historical
character. I have thought that perhaps some short account
of the Toppesfield of to-day might be of interest.

The village is situated in the north-eastern corner of the
County of Essex, near to the borders of Suffolk on the east,
and of Cambridgeshire on the north ; the country is not by
any means of the level character that is usually attributed to
the whole of Essex. There are no great hills but there is no
flat country ; all is undulating. Toppesfield itself — whatever
the origin of its name — certainly by its position deserves its
designation ; the church does not stand on the highest
ground in the parish, but yet its tower serves for a land-mark
for miles around, on all sides except the west, on which side
a wood screens it from view; while in the parish about two
miles in a southerly direction from the church, is found the
highest point in this part of the county, excelled in the
whole county only, if at all, by Danbury Hill near Chelms-
ford.

The soil is almost uniformly clay, and very good for
wheat growing, and its fertility is such that even in the present
time of agricultural depression there is not an unoccupied
acre in the parish. Yet it must not for a moment be sup-
posed that Toppesfield has escaped unscathed ; very far
from it. Thirty years ago it was as rich and prosperous a
little place as could be found ; now it is miserably poverty-
stricken ; then, there were numbers of well-to-do farmers,
now, the land is farmed in large holdings by men who, for the
most part, live in neighbouring villages; then, many of the
old houses dotted about the parish were occupied by large
and thriving families ; now, the families have gone and many
of the houses are either occupied by labourers (e.g. Olivers,
Cust Hall and Fry's Hall) or are falling into decay as
"Mullows" has done. The impossibility of making a living
off the land, has driven the descendants of sturdy yeomen to
seek elsewhere, the livelihood which the ground their fathers
tilled, can no longer afford them.

Nor is the lot of the labourer better than that of the

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY. 3

farmer; though the cause of the trouble is in his case differ-
ent; for farm labourers wages, have this year stood higher
than they have ever been known to be before. But in the
old days the daughters and wife would earn more than the
father, and would do so without being necessarily taken away
from home ; even thirty years ago, straw plaiting was a great
industry in this part of England. Old crones maintained
themselves in comparative comfort by holding "schools" in
which infants of quite tender years were taught to plait, and,
as the children grew up, they plaited as they stood in their
cottage doors or as they lolled about the roads, and their
work was every week collected by higglers who came round
for the purpose. All this has come to an end now ; no straw
plait is made here for it can be more cheaply imported from
the East than it can be made at home ; and though the
money that was earned in this way is much missed, yet the
village is happier and better for the loss of this business, for
straw plaiting always seemed — wherever it was done — to
bring a moral deterioration in its train.

There is however an indirect way in which the agricul-
tural depression seriously affects the labourer; it makes it
very difficult for him to get a decent cottage. The profits
of farming having been so much reduced, the farmers have
been unable to pay anything like the old amount of rent and
this has hit the land-owning class very hard ; in some cases
the depreciation of the value of land has been so great that
its capital value now is little more than its old annual rent;
plenty of good land can now be bought for £j. an acre and
in this price are sometimes included farm houses and out-
buildings and cottages which have quite recently cost more
than now they can fetch, even with the freehold of the land
thrown in ; small pieces of land without buildings fetch
(except for some special reason) even lower prices. I heard
last week of thirteen acres of good land in an adjoining
parish being sold for no more than £40.

The landlords then, being so hard hit in all cases, and
sometimes having positively no balance left after they have
paid the "charges" on the estate (doweries it may be or pen-
sions determined upon during the fat years of prosperity) are
unwilling, even when, through having other sources of income,

4 THE TOWX OF TOPSFIELD.

they are able, to spend more money than can be helped, on
the up-keep of their farm buildings and the cottages on
their farms; hence on every side the barns and out-buildings
are more or less dilapidated, (though it must be owned that
in this respect there has been a considerable improvement
during the last two years) hence too the refusal to repair
old cottages, so that cottage after cottage is condemned by
the medical officer of health as unfit or unsafe for human
habitation, and the inhabitants of the condemned cottages
are obliged to seek their living elsewhere than in the old
parish. As for new cottages, none have been built lately
and none are likely to be built, for if the landlords cannot
build them no one else will except from philanthropic motives,
for it would be difficult to get a nett return of two per cent,
on the minimum cost of erection.

The necessary results of such a condition of things are
easily understood ; the best of the young men go off to the
towns, and there gain their living; many of them become
policeman or employes on the railways; others become
soldiers ; the young women go out to domestic service and
so the village is left with the old people and the young chil-
dren to inhabit it. The proportion of the old is something
remarkable ; that the climate is extremely healthy and that
longevity is much more common here than in most places,
may have a little to do with it, but fails altogether to account
for the wonderful proportion of old people in the population ;
no, the reason is that the young men and women as soon as
they grow up go off elsewhere to seek a better market for
their labour; and while we regret losing them, and fear that
many of the men like the married man of the story find the
change "none for the better and all for the worse," there can
be no doubt that the course they take is the one which must
seem most reasonable to those who have no knowledge of
the condition of unskilled labour in the great towns. The
extent to which this exodus is reducing the population of the
parish may be judged from the fact that while in 183 1 there
were 1088 inhabitants; in 1881 there were 861 ; in 1891 790,
and in 1901 there is no doubt that there will be a still further
reduction. It is impossible to form an accurate estimate,
but I should guess the number at 650, basing my calculation

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY. 5

on the number of children on the school books, which is now
115, while in 1891 it was 146. I am glad to say, however,
that the average number in attendance for this year is higher
than it was then, for while in 1891 the average was 1 1 1, it is
for the time that has passed since the beginning of the cur-
rent school year on April 1st last* 113, which we are proud
to consider would be a remarkable performance for any school,
but which is highly creditable in a parish where some of the
scholars live two and one-half miles away from the school
door. The school is a voluntary school supported by a
voluntary rate of 4d in the £1, in addition of course to the
Government grant; the total cost for a scholar in average
attendance being about £2. 10. O. per annum ; the buildings
are good and roomy, and would accommodate nearly double
the present number of scholars. In the school is also held
an evening continuation school for young men which was
begun this year and which has been doing fairly well. In
this same building are held the meetings of the members of
what is known as "the school club," an excellent Benefit
Society, a branch of the National Deposit Friendly Society.
The Toppesfield branch started some fifteen years ago by
the then Rector, the Rev. C. F. Taylor, has over 100 mem-
bers ; many of them however are now living in distant parts
and some come from neighbouring villages. Toppesfield
has reason to feel proud of its school and of its Benefit
Society.

Near the School is the church which is dedicated to St.
Margaret; the tower looks imposing from a distance but
when examined more closely proves to be a rather poor
specimen of the architecture of the beginning of the eighteenth
century; there was an old tower, the inside of which must
have opened on to the church, with a lofty early English
arch, and which is said to have been built of flint and rubble ;
this fell down on July 4th 1689, and was replaced by the
present structure of brick ; the tower contains five bells, two
of which however need recasting. The church consists of a
chancel, nave, and south aisle with a gallery at the west end,
against the tower. The chancel contains an interesting old

•It is only fair to state, that during the months April, May and June, there were ten more chil-
dren an the books, but the average weekly percentage of children present is, for this year, over
ninety-free.

6 THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

tomb surmounted with a cross, built half in and half out of
the south wall. There is no inscription on the tomb, and it
is not known to whom it belongs. In the floor is an old
brass, bearing the figures of a man and woman, and with the
inscription

Pray for the sowlys of John Cracherowd and Agnes his
wyff : the whyche John decesyd the yere of Our Lord
God 15 13, upon whose sowl Christ have mercy.

Near to this there is another brass plate with the inscription :

Here lyeth buryed William Cracherod, Gent, who died
Xth of January 1585, and Eliz ; his wyfe the XVIIth of
Feb. 1587.

Near to this again there is a tomb, with a full-sized effigy of
a man, bearing no inscription, but probably containing an
earlier member of the same family of Cracherod.

On the walls of the chancel are commonplace memorials
of three former Rectors,* and two memorials of ladies which
may be worth transcribing; on the north wall there is a
marble monument bearing various symbolical devicesf and
this inscription :

*Against the east wall of the chancel is a small mural monument,
upon which is written as follows: —Ego Richardus King, patria Here-
fordiensis, educatione Oxoniensi, pofessione theologus, officio capel-
loneus Jacobi Regis ferenissimi & hujus ecclesiae vicarius indignus,
hoc in loco sacrosancto sponte depono & recondo corporis exuvias
laus Deo, salus ecclesiae, & animae meae requies in aeternum. Amen.
[For illustration of this tablet, see, The Ancient Sepulchral Monuments
of Essex. By Frederic Chancellor, p. 325, London, 1890.]

In English: — I Richard King, by country an Herefordshireman, by
education an Oxonian, by profession a divine, by office a chaplain to king
James and the unworthy vicar of this church, willingly deposit my
remains in this sacred place. — Praise be to God, health to the church,
and rest to my soul for ever. Amen. — History of Essex (Co.). By a
Gen tleman . Chelmsford, 1 7 7 1 .

fTwo Bibles serve the office of trusses, upon which are two rows of
books, that instead of two pilasters support a neat pediment, in the
middle of which pediment is a beehive, and under the hive is written
indultria dulcis, meaning sweet industry. Over the hive is placed a
dove, with the words fida simplex (imparting simple fidelity) written
below it. Six of the books which compose the pilasters are labelled
thus: — Sacrae medit; Soliloquia; Publ. Prec; Praxis Pict; Flores Prac;
Psalmi. — History of Essex (Co.). By a Gentleman. Chelmsford, 1771.

VIEWS SHOWING the west porch and interior of

ST. MARGARETS CHURCH, TOPPESFiELD, ENGLAND,

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY. 7

Sacrum memorice pientiss* fcemince Dorcadi (sic)

uxori
Guil Smyth armigeri ; qui earn prius viduam Guil.

Bigg triumq
liberor matre, ob modestia, pietate prudentia singulare
duxit; et in familia prosapia celebre traduxit; ubi multos
annos ille, spendidce hospitalitatis et candoris, ilia
solertiae fideique matronalis exemplar; clara omnibusq
nobilib8 ceque ac infimis chara sui memoria reliqueru
Laudatiss08 avice suae, sacra senecta lectione, meditatione
bonisq operibus indefesse consolanti tandeq inter in-

credibilia
sanctissimae animas gaudia ultro in ccelu avolanti H. Bigg
nepos hisce symbolis parentat et lachrymis. Hoc pago

educata.
nupta ; Cressingce, mortua, sepulta.

Obiit 1663. Dec. 18 anno setat 76.*

*In English: — Sacred to the memory of that very pious woman Dorcas
the wife of William Smith, esquire; who married her, when the widow
of William Bigg and the mother of three children, for her singular
modesty, piety, and prudence; and placed her in a family of great
eminence; wherein, he was many years a bright pattern of hospitality
and goodness; she, of diligence and conjugal fidelity; persons of every
rank held her in great esteem: the memory of them was dear to all who
knew them. H. Bigg makes an offering of this and of his tears to his
much esteemed grandmother, who incessantly comforted her old age, by
reading the holy scriptures, by meditation, and by acts of goodness;
and who, at length amidst the inconceivable joys of a most pious soul,
willingly winged her way to heaven. She was brought up and married
in this town: she died and was buried at Cressing. She departed this
life December 18, 1633, in the 76th year of her age. Beneath this
inscription is the figure of a lamb placed upon a bible, upon which is
written these words: Biblia fides sacra, which mean, Faith in the Holy
Bible: on one side the bible is the representation of a bleeding heart, as
figurativeof her feelings for the distressed poor: on the other side is that
of an expanded hand; doubtless as a symbol of her readiness always to
assist them. The whole is prettily designed, and executed in a masterly
manner. — History of Essex {Co.). By a Gentleman. Chelmsford, 1771 .

8 THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

On the South wall is a memorial of a young lady of eighteen:

Her disposition was mild and benevolent

her manners gentle and simple

and most respectfully obliging

her sentiments enlarged and liberal

her understanding clear and comprehensive

enriched with an uncommon extent and variety

of attainments, of which she was so far

from making an ostentatious display

that she seemed unconscious she possessed them

nay, the degrading conceptions she unhappily formed

of her own worth moral and intelectual (sic)

were probably the source of insupportable sufferings

"The brain too nicely wrought

Preys on itself and is destroyed by thought."

One cannot but wonder whether the young lady overburdened
by the marvellous talents of which she was unaware sought
relief in suicide.

The South aisle has a fine old oak carved roof, the date
of which can be determined (by the combination of the
pomegranite and the rose found on it) to be about the year
1500. At the east end of the aisle there used to be a window
with fine old glass, but it having been found necessary, some
half century ago, to build a vestry out beyond the aisle, the
glass in the window was removed and left about to perish !
this is not the only loss — caused by neglect or ignorance —
that we have occasion to deplore. At the east end of this
aisle there can be seen on one side a piscina, showing that
an alter once stood there, and in the other, high up in the
wall, the entrance to the rood loft of which no other trace
now remains. The font, which stands in the aisle, has no
other interest than such as is derived from its great age.
The body of the church has nothing to recommend it, the
seats are mean looking and uncomfortable for use, the pulpit
is commonplace, the west gallery (in which, in the good old
days of even fifty years ago or less, sat the performers on the
fiddles and the flutes) is Jacobean, but while all built of oak
is faced on its pillars with carved oak ; the great oak beams
which span the nave are similarly cased, and unhappily

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY.

neither they nor the roof are in a sound condition. The
right of appointing the Rector rests with the Crown; there
were here at one time both a Rectory (which then was a
sinecure) and a Vicarage ; but the Bishop of London, about
1454, finding that the Vicarage had become too poor to
maintain a clergyman, united the Vicarage to the Rectory.
There is still a piece of the Glebe land known as "the vicarage,"
which forms a memorial of the old state of things.

The names are known of all the clergy of the Parish
since 1300:

DATE. SINECURE RECTORS.

I327-

1385.
1386.
1336.

I446.
1452.
1454.

1492.

1504.
1520.
I5SI.

1553-
1554-
1556.

1559-

John Hardy.*
William de Grytton
John Cory.
William Noble.
William Barret.
Thomas Haxeye.*
Thomas Banaster.*
William Gray.
Nicholas Manvell.
William Breden.*
John Hambalt.
William Parker.

(died)

DATE. VICARS.

William (died)
1 33 1. Stephen le Parker.

John Hokyngton.*
1385. William Lambeleye or

Welton.*
r394- John Cukkowe.

William Mersey, (died)

1431. Richard Pumpy.*

1432. John Scarlette.*

1433. William Meyr.
John Peteville.

1448. Henry Huyton.

RECTORS.

William Parker.
John Edenham or

Ednam, D. D.

Thomas Fermyn. (died)
Adam Becansawe.
Thomas Donnell, B. D.
Cuthbert Hagerston, M. A.
Thomas Havard.
Richard Wynne.
Thomas Donnell, B. D.

1 571. William Redman, D. D.

1578. William Whiting.

1598. Edward Graunt, D. D.

1601. William Smyth.*

1603. Theodore Beacon, M. D.

1604. Randolph Davenport, B. D.

1605. Richard Kinge, D. D.

Preferred. Dean of Stoke; Canon
of St. Paul's ; Master of Corpus
Coll.

Agent of Thomas Cromwell.
Deprived.

Restored. Prebendary of Lich-
field.

Preferred. Canon of Canterbury ;
Bishop of Norwich.

Canon of Ely ; Sub-Dean of West-
minster.

Chaplain to James I.

Resigned.

IO

THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

RECTORS.

Dean of Gloucester; Bishop of

Carlisle.
Chaplain to Charles I.
Thomas Overhead intruded.

Bishop of Clonfert.
Dean of Booking.
Chaplain of the Rolls.

Bishop of Bristol, Salisbury and

Oxford.
Dean of Bristol ; Bishop of St.

David's.

Canon of Westminster.

1621. Richard Senhouse, D. D.

1624. Lawrence Burnell, D. D.
1647-1 66 1. No rector.

1661. Clement Thurston, M. A.

1662. Nathaniel Ward, M. A.
1662. Edgar Wolley, D. D.
1664. Richard Collebrand, D. D.
1674. Robert Wild, M. A.
1691. Thomas Willett, M. A.
1735. John Hume, D. D.

1749. Samuel Squire, D. D., F.

R. S., F. S. A.

1750. Henry Herring, M. A.
1772. George Pawson, L. L. B.
1797. Lord Henry Fitzroy, M. A.
1828. George Henry Gooch, M. A.
1876. John Sherron Brewer, M. A.

* Resigned.

Since the death of which distinguished man in 1879 there
have been five other Rectors.

In the Church and Churchyard many of these worthies
lie buried, but none of their memorial stones are worth copy-
ing. There is one stone however near the Tower which
records that:

Here lieth the body of
Sarah Norfolk wife of
Samuel Norfolk the younger
who was cruelly murdered by
her husband Septr. 24 1775 at
a farm call'd Elms in this Parish
in the 25th year of her age
The said Samuel Norfolk
confessed the fact
was hang'd and desected

The Parish registers date back to 1558 and are in a good
state of preservation and fairly legible to those who have
mastered the difficulties of the old form of writing; there are
also old account books dating back to 1662, and deeds of an
earlier date.

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY. I I

On the first page of the earliest register is written in
Latin and in English, the doggrel rhymes:

Advent wills thee to contein

But Hilarie sets thee free again

Septuagesima said thee nay

But eight from Easter says you may

Rogation bids thee yet to tarrie

But Trinity gives thee leave to marrie.

The baptisms, marriages and burials are entered in separate
parts of the book but mistakes occur every now and then,
so that a marriage is entered among the funerals.

Near the church stand the two village inns, the Chestnuts,
and The Green Man, both of them picturesque in appearance.
The Green Man is as quaint and old-fashioned as it is com-
fortable and well-managed. The host, Mr. Charles Seaman,
has held his house for over forty years, and it is commonly
said that there is not an hotel in any of the neighbouring
towns for miles round where guests are made so comfortable
or where a dinner so well cooked and served can be had.

Standing back in a park-like meadow is the old Manor
House known as Berwick Hall ; a nice comfortable house,
with some old oak in it, inhabited by Mr. Charles Darby,
whose family name has been known in Toppesfield for some
three centuries at least.

Beyond the "Park" of Berwick Hall is the Rectory, part
of which also is very old, dating back to the 14th century.
There are traces of a moat round both Berwick Hall and the
Rectory. Two years ago (1898) a very fine oak ceiling with
large moulded beams, and an old oak doorway, were discov-
ered in one of the rooms, having previously been covered up
with plaister and canvas. The Rectory is very sheltered on
all sides being enclosed by well-grown trees and with a large
old Tithe Barn lying on its north side.

About half a mile from the Rectory on the road to
Yeldham, stands "Olivers," with a beautiful approach through
an avenue ; it is now inhabited by two labourers ; there is a
panelled room still in an excellent state of preservation
though the woodwork has been unfortunately covered with
paint.

12 THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

Toppesfield Hall, which like Olivers, belongs to Mr. J.
M. Balls, stands on the other side of the Yeldham road ; it is
a comfortable modern house inhabited by Mr. J. F. Benson,
one of the church-wardens, who is a nephew of the proprietor.

Bradfields is a picturesque house lying rather low, and
in a rather dilapidated condition.

Gainsfords is another old Manor house about two miles
from the church, occupied by Mr. C. Dean Darby, a son of
Mr. Darby of Berwick Hall ; it also has some nice oak.

Flowers Hall, about another mile beyond Gainsfords, is
another nice-looking house, not very large, but with a won-
derful range of out-buildings; it is now occupied by Mr.
Clarke who with his family of active sons gets excellent results
from some of the least fertile land in the parish.

I have given as fair a description as I can of the
Toppesfield of today. What is its future to be? there is I
think but little doubt. London is but fifty miles off, though
thanks to the bad railway accommodation it takes two hours
to get there. The Londoner is more and more developing a
love for a country residence, and when the favourite counties
of Kent, Surrey and Sussex get filled up, as they are doing
already, those who like quiet will go further afield. Auto-
mobilism, or electric railways, will make travelling easy, and
then this corner of Essex with its healthy climate, its quiet
beauty, its fertile soil, its fine oaks and other trees will attract
the class of persons who want a nice house and a few acres
of land. Then land will again fetch in this district ten times
what it fetches now ; then there will be plenty of employment
in stables, gardens and pleasure farms for the men who now
flock into the towns. But this will not be in my day. But
even now Toppesfield is a pleasant happy place with inhab-
itants who are not very fond of strangers, but who are
essentially good-hearted.

TOPPESFIELD, ENGLAND.

FROM

HISTORY AND ANTIQUITIES OF THE COUNTY OF ESSEX

(ENGLAND), BY PHILIP MORANT.

CHELMSFORD, l8l6.

This parish* was so called from some Saxon owner,
named Topa, or Toppa. It is otherwise written in records —
Toppesfend, Toppesford, Thopefield. In Edward the Con-
fessor's reign, some of the lands here belonged to freemen,
named Alestan ; to Duua ; to Got, &c, but, at the time of
the general survey, part was holden by Eustace, Earl of Bo-
logne, and his under-tenant, Bernard; part by one Ralph;
and a considerable share, called afterwards Camoys-hall, by
Hamo Dapifer.

These lands were divided, soon after, into the following
maners: — The maner of Berwick and Scoteneys ; Gaynes-
fords; The maner of Husees; Cust-hall ; The maner of Cam-
oys, and the maners, or reputed maners, of Flowers-hall,
Gobions, Hawkeshall, and Bradfield. Most of these, if not
all, are Duchy lands, and belonged to the honor of Clare.

*Is of large extent, fruitful in its soil, and pleasant in its situation,
but not being a great thoroughfare, the roads hereabouts are in general
heavy and narrow. The village is but small and rather mean in appear-
ance. History of Essex Co. By a Gentleman. Chelmsford, 1771.

This parish extends northward to Great Yeldham; to Finching-
field on the west ; southward to Wethersfield, and on the east, to the
Hedinghams. Distant from Clare, five, and from London, fifty miles.
The village is small, and none of the roads passing through this district
being leading thoroughfares, they are in general narrow, and not in very
good repair. The soil is a deep tenacious marl, retentive of moisture,
and universally requires draining. Wrights'1 History of Essex County.
London, 1836.

Toppesfield. A. 3332; P. 861; Rectory, value ,£900; 2 m. SW.
from Yeldham; B. 6. A pleasant, retired village on a commanding emi-

(13)

14 THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

THE MANER OF BERWICKS AND SCOTENEYS.

They were separate at first, but have been long united,
and took their names from their respective ancient owners, as
will appear in the sequel. Berwick-hall stands a little way-
south-west from the church. The mansion-house and lands
of Scoteneys lie near Yeldham, about half a mile from Ber-
wick-hall. These two constitute the chief maner in this
parish, though not the largest. In King John's reign, Albrey
de Wic, or Wykes, held this estate, of the honor of Bologne,
by the service of three parts of a Knight's-fee. He sold it to
Gerebert de St. Clere; it being then called 84 acres of arable,

3 acres of meadow and pasture, 4 acres of wood, 45 pence
rent of assize yearly, 49 days work, and ten hens. Part of
the estate, viz. : 8 acres of arable, 5 of meadow, 4 of wood,
&c, were holden of Ralph de Camoys.

Scoteneys was then distinct from it, and belonged to Wal-
ler de Scoteney, a Baron, who had also the maner of Hersham.
But, for giving poison to Richard Earl of Clare, whose Stew-
ard he was, and to William, his brother, of which the latter
died, he was hanged in 1259; and his estate, most probably,
given to John de Berewyk, who died in 13 12 ; holding the
the maner of Toppesfield, of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Glou-
cester, by the service of one Knight's-fee ; and his heir was
Roger, son of John Huse; more particularly mentioned under
the maner of Husees. From him it came to Tho. Rykedon ;

nence, 280 ft. above the sea. The Church (St. Margaret) is of brick, and
has a nave, S. aisle of four bays, chancel, and embattled brick tower with

4 corner pinnacles and 5 bells; 3 dated 1675; one 1720; and one 1779.
The body was built in 15 19, the tower in 1699. ^n the chancel are mural
tablets to Dorcas Smyth (1633); Robert Wildes (1690), rector: Thomas
Willitt (1731), rector; the Rev. George Pawson (1797); and Elizabeth Erie
(1655); also an uninscribed altar-tomb, on the S. side of the chancel, with
floriated cross, probably to the founder of the church; and brasses to
Wm. Cracherod, gent. (1585), and wife; and to John Cracherod (1534), and
wife. There is also a fine incised stone, with an effigy of a cross-legged
knight in armour, and a 14th century inscription to Thomas le Despen-
ser. In the chancel is a piscina and another in the nave. The font is a
rude, ancient one. The registers date from 1559. The women and chil-
dren in this parish are partially engaged in straw-plaiting. Essex (Co.)
Handbook, by Miller Christy. London, 1887.

TOPPESFIELD, ENGLAND.
The Parish Pump. Aq Old Resident.

The Winding Street,
St. Margaret's Tower.

Berwick Hail.

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY. 1 5

and Robert Rykcdon and others sold it, in 1420, to Jo Jin
Doreward, of Booking, Esq., who, at the time of his decease,
in the said year, held the maners and other lands, &c., called
Berewyk, Scoteneys, and Cardeaux, in Toppesfield, the two
Yeldhams, Mapiltrested, Haverill, Hengham Sible, and else-
where. John, his son, succeeded him ; and held this maner,
with the lands, tenements, rents, and services, called Berwykes,
Scoteneys, and Cardeaux, that composed the maner of Top-
pesfield, of Cecily, Duchess of York, as of her maner of
Stamburne. He died in 1476. John Doreward, of Great
Yeldham, Esq., held the same at the time of his death, the
last day of February 1496; and Christian, his neice, brought
it, in marriage, to her husband, John de Vere, the 14th Earl
of Oxford on whom it was settled, in case of failure of issue,
and on his heirs forever. In this noble family it continued,
till Edward [the 17th] Earl of Oxford sold it [he having
squandered away his various estates] 1st October 1584, to
William Bigge, of Redgewell ; who died possessed of it, 5th
January 1585, and of Gounces, Brownes Farm, Broad-oake,
with other estates adjoining. By his wife, Dorcas, daughter
of John Mooteham, of this parish, Gent.,* he had William,
Samuel, Edward, and Dorcas. William, the eldest son,
who lived at Redfens in Shalford, held several parcels of
land in this parish, belonging to the adjoining estate of
Gunces ; but Edward, the younger son had the maners of
Berwick-hall and Scoteneys. Edward, his son, kept his first
Court here on the 8th of October 1635.

In 1645, it came into the possession of Robert Jacob,
Gent, and, in 165 1, into that of John Blackmore, Esq. On
the 23d of April 1658, Robert Wankford, Esq., kept his first
Court here. He had two daughters by his first wife; and by
his second; Robert, baptized 12th June 1631 ; and Samuel, 1 8th
December 1632. Robert, his eldest son, seated at Berwick-
hall, married Elizabeth, daughter and heir of Thomas Shelley,
of Magdalen-Lavor in this county; and had by her, Berwick,

*She was remarried to William Smyth, of Cressing-Temple, Esq.
and dying 18th December 1633, was buried at Cressing. But her grand-
son, Henry Bigge, Esq. erected a curious monument to her memory in
the chancel of St. Margarets.

For illustration of this tablet, see, The Ancient Sepulchral M07111-
ments of Essex. By Frederic Chancellor, p. 325, London, 1890.

1 6 THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

who died young; Robert, Walter, Shelley; and seven daugh-
ters ; of whom, Anne was married to John Elliston of Over-
hall in Gestingthorp, and afterwards to George Gent, Esq.
Mary was wife of John Littel, of London, druggist; and the
youngest, of Thomas Todd, of Sturmere. He died in 1688.
Robert, his eldest surviving son, had no issue by his first
wife, Dorothy, daughter of John Fotherby, of Rickmans-
worth in Hertfordshire, Esq, ; but by his second wife, Mary,
daughter of the Rev. John Oseley, Rector of Pantfeild,
&c, he had several children. He was buried here on the
20th of June, 1708.

Some time after, the maners and demesnes of Berwicks,
Scoteneys. and Gaynesfords, coming into the hands of Mr.
John Poultnor, Attorney at Law, at Clare, he sold them to
Isaac Helbutt, a rich merchant ; from whom they passed to
Moses Hart, and to Wulph Ridolphus, or, as some call him,
Michael A dolphus, Esq.

THE MANER OF GAYNESFORDS,

Just now mentioned, took its name from an ancient fam-
ily, who had also Gobions in this parish, Ashwell-hall in
Finchingfield, Nicholls in Shaldford, &c. Richard Gayn-
ford, who died 20th May 1484. held lands in this parish,
which we suppose to be these. His brother John succeeded
him. William Butcher held this capital messuage, and 24
acres of land, in Queen Elizabeth's reign. June 14, 1669,
Thomas Guyver, with Samuel Edwards and Margaret his
wife, daughter of Francis Guyver, sold this capital messuage
to Robert Wank ford; from whom they passed as above.
Gaynesfords is near two miles south-west from the church.

THE MANER OF HUSEES.

Roger, son of John Huse, upon the death of John de
Berewyk in 13 12, inherited this estate, to which he gave
name. This Roger sprung from the ancient family of Huse
in Wiltshire and Dorsetshire ; was a great soldier ; became
a knight; had summons to Parliament in 1348 and 1349,
and died in 1361 ; being seated at Barton Stacy, in Hamp-
shire. John, his son, succeeded him. In 1419, Alexander

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY. 1 7

Eustace and John Wood sold this estate to John Symonds.
Henry Parker, of Gosfeild, Esq. who died 15th January
1 541, held this messuage, called Hosees, and 80 acres of
arable and meadow, of John de Vere, Earl of Oxford, in
socage ; besides other parcels here,* and great estates else-
where. Roger, his son, succeeded him. William Cratchrode,
junior, held this maner in 1585. About the latter end
of Queen Elizabeth, it was holden by John Alston, of
Belchamp Oton, who gave it to his third son, Matthew ; and
and he having no issue, bequeathed it to Thomas Cracherode',
of whom it was purchased by Colonel Stephen Piper \
and it is now in the possession of Dr. Piper [whose family
sold it to Henry Sperling, Esq., of Dines Hall].

THE MANER OF CUST-HALL.

The mansion-house stands near a mile south-west form
the church. It took its name from an ancient and
considerable family! which were seated herein King Edward
the Third's reign. Afterwards, it became the Cracherode
family that had long been settled at a place called from them
Cracherodes, in this parish. The first of the name that hath
occurred to us, was John Cracherode, witness to a deed,
17th Richard II. 1393. His son Robert, was father of John,
an Esquire under John de Vere, Earl of Oxford, at the battle
of Azincourt. John Cracherode, Gent., son of the latter,
married Agnes, daughter and heir of Sir John Gates, of
Rivenhall ; and had by her, John ; William, Clerk of the
Green Cloth to King Henry VIII, and Thomas, who had to
wife Brigett, daughter of Aubrey de Vere, second son to
John the 15th Earl of Oxford. John, the eldest son, paid
ingress fine for Cust-hall in 1504. He married Agnes,
daughter of Tho. Carter; and departing this life in 1534,
was buried in the middle of this church, under a grave-stone,

*Namely, Shoremeadow, Foxholes; a messuage, called Dudmans,
and 70 acres of arable and meadow; two tenements, called Griggs and
Algers; St. John's Land, &c.

fThe Cust family was originally of Yorkshire, but long seated in
Lincolnshire; as may be seen in the Baronetage, vol. iv, p. 629, under
the article of the Right Hon. Sir John Cust, present Speaker of the
House of Commons.

1 8 THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

with an inscription. They had four sons and four daughters ;
viz., Helen, wife of William Hunt, of Gosfeild, Gent.; Joan,
of John Tendring, of Boreham, Gent. ; Julian, of . . . Lee ;
and Jane, of Peter Fitch, of Writtle, Gent. William, the
only son whose name is recorded, married Elizabeth, daugh-
ter of John Ray, of Denston in Suffolk. They lived 56 years
together in wedlock. At the time of his decease, 10th
January, 1585, he held this capital messuage, called Custs,
and 20 acres of free land, belonging of old thereto ; also
a messuage, anciently called Cracherodes, and afterwards
Colman's, in this parish and in Hedingham Sible ; with
several other parcels of land ; particularly Albegeons, and
Camois Parke, Pipers Pond, &c. He, and his wife, which
died 17th February 1587, lie both buried in the chancel of
this church, under a blue marble stone. They had issue
five sons and one daughter; viz., Thomas; Matthew, of
Cavendish; John, Charles, William. The daughter, named
Anne, was wife of John Mootham. — Thomas, the eldest son,
married Anne, daughter of Robert Mordaunt, of Hemstead
in this county, Esq., a younger branch of the Lord Mordaunt,
of Turvey in Bedfordshire; by whom he had William, who
died without issue ; Thomas; and four daughters: Frances,
married to Robert Wilkins, of Bumsted ; Anne, to John
Alston, of Belchamp-Oton ; Elizabeth, to John Fryer, of
Paul's-Belchamp, and Barbara, to . . . Harris. He died
14th June 1619. — Thomas, his son and heir, then aged 40
years, married Elizabeth, daughter of Richard Godbolt, of
Finchamp in Norfolk; John, of Cranham-hall in Romford;
Richard ; and three daughters : Elizabeth, Brigett, and
Susan. — Mordaunt, the eldest son, married Dorothy, daughter
of Antony Sammes, of Hatfeild-Peverell. He died 2d of
February 1666, and she 6th of March 1692. Both lie buried
in this church. — They had issue, Thomas, baptized on the
17th of September 1646; Antony; Mordaunt [who was a
linen-draper of London] ; and Mary, wife of Christopher
Layer, of Boughton-hall, Esq. Thomas, the eldest son,
married Anne, daughter of Christopher Layer, of Belchamp
St. Paul; by whom he had Thomas, baptized the 1st of June
1680. He was buried in this church the 8th of July 1706.
Thomas, his son and heir, sold this maner, in 1708, to

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY. 1 9

Colonel Stephen Piper, mentioned a little before [whose
family sold in to Henry Sperling, Esq., of Dines Hall].

THE MANER OF CAMOYS,

Is the largest in this parish ; consisting, in time past, of
two Knight's-fees, holden in the honor of Clare. The
mansion-house stands near the church, and formerly had a
park. In Edward the Confessor's reign, Got held this lord-
ship, as lying in this parish and Stanburne, and then in two
maners; which, at the time of the survey, belonged to
Hamo Dapifer. How long it continued united with Stam-
borne, we cannot certainly discover.

Sir Ralph de Camoys,* from whom it borrowed its name,
held it under Richard de Clare, Earl of Gloucester and Hert-
ford, in 1262, as two Knight's-fees. He was a man of great
note in his time ; and after the taking of King Henry III,
prisoner at the battle of Lewes, was chosen, by the discon-
tented Barons, one of their Council of State, to govern the
Realm. f He was also summoned to Parliament, 24th Decem-
ber 1264. He died in 1276. — John,% his son and successor,
was father of Ralph, who gave this estate, in free-marriage
with his daughter Ela, to Peter Gonsell, or Gonshill. This
family was originally of Yorkshire, Giles Gonsell, by Emin-
entia, daughter of Fulk de Oyry, of Gedney in Lincolnshire,
had Peter; who, by the said Ela his wife, had Ralph and
Margaret. Ralph dying in 1295, was succeeded by his sister,
Margaret, who had two husbands, first, Philip le Despenser,
4th son of Hugh le Despenser, Earl of Gloucester. He

*The name of Cammois is in the list of those that came in with
William the Conqueror. — Chronic, y. Bromton, col. 963.

fSee Dtigdale's Baron, vol. i, p. 767.

JThis John married Margaret, daughter and heir of Sir John de Gates-
den; and she forsaking him, and living in adultery with Sir William Paynel,
John de Cameys, as he calls himself, quitted all his right and title to her, as
also to all her goods and chattels, spontaneously delivering and demising
her unto the said Sir William, and releasing all title and claim to her and
her appertenances; as appears by the deed, printed at length in Sir William
Dugdale's Baron, vol. i, p. 767. — After her lawful husband's decease,
she was married to the said Sir William, and claimed thirds of Camoys
estate; which the Parliament, out of due regard to morality and law,
refused her.

20 THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

departing this life in 13 13, she took to her second husband,
Sir John Roos, and lived till 1349. By her first husband,
she had Philip le Despenser; who, at the time of his decease,
in 1349, jointly with Joane his wife, held, of the Lady of
Clare, a tenement here called Camoy's-hall, by the service
aforesaid. Philips his son, by . . . daughter of . . .
Strange, had Philip, who died in 1400; leaving, by his wife,
Margaret Cobham, Sir Philip, his son and heir, that departed
this life in 1423, and held this maner of Edward, Earl of
March ; as also those of Lyndsells, Little Stambridge, and a
fourth part of the maner of Thaxted. He married Elizabeth,
one of the daughters and coheirs of Sir Robert Tiptoft; and
by her he had his only daughter and heir, Margery. She
was married, first, to Sir Roger Wentworth, third son of John
Wentworth, of Elmes-hall in Yorkshire, Esq. a younger
branch of the Wentworths, of Wentworth Woodhouse ; from
whence are descended the Earls of Stratford. Her second
husband was John Lord Rosse ; by whom she had no issue.
But by her first husband, she had two sons ; Philip; and
Henry, the first of this family seated at Codham-hall ; from
whom sprung the Wentworths, of Gosfeild and Bocking ; and
several daughters. She died the 20th of April 1475. Sir
Philip Wentworth, her eldest son, and heir to this estate,
married Mary, daughter of John Lord Clifford ; and had by
her, Sir Henry, father of Sir Richard, a Knight-Banneret;
who, by Anne, daughter of Sir James Tyrell, of Gipping
in Suffolk, had Sir Thomas Wentworth, of Nettlested, created
Baron Wentworth the 2d of December 1529. He married
Margaret, daughter of Sir Adrian Fortescue ; and had by
her, Thomas, Lord Wentworth, who held his first Court here
the 1 6th of June 1 5 5 1 . — He had also the maners Hackney
and Stepney ; and was the last Governor of Calais under
Queen Mary I. The 4th of 13th of May 1557, he sold
Camoys-hall to William Fitch, Esquire, of Little Canfield
It continued little more than twenty years in his name, for
he dying the 20th of December 1578, it came to his son
Thomas; who surviving him but a little while, it then fell to
his only daughter and heir, Mary, that had been married,

about the year 1556, to Francis Mannock, Esq

who died 3d of November 1590 and was succeeded by his

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY. 21

son William ; whose son and heir, Francis, was created a
Baronet the 1st of June 1627; and had for successors, Sir
Francis and Sir William. The latter sold this estate, the
25th of March 17 13, to Matthias Unwin, of Castle Hedingham,
Gent, who died the 1 8th of September 171 5; and, by will,
bequeathed Camoys-hall to his brother's son, Joseph. This
latter dying in September 1747, was succeeded by his
eldest son, Joseph Unwin, Gent, [of Castle Hedingham.]

FLOWERS-HALL,

Is about two miles south south-west from the church. From
a family that existed here from 1369 to 1572, it took the
name of Flowers. Thomas Glascock, who died 29th October
163 1. held the maner and capital messuage called Flowers-
hall, Giddings, and Brownes, with appertenances, of Edward
Benlowes, Esq, of his maner of Justices, in Finchingfield,
by the annual rent of 8 s. one cock, one hen, and an egg and a
half. It was afterwards Henry Glascocks* This estate paid
quit-rent to Nortofts in Finchingfeild.

GOBIONS,

Is denominated from an ancient knightly family, surnamed
Gobyon, that had considerable estates at Finchingfeild,

Bardfeild, Great Lees, Laindow, East Tilbury, &c

Sir Thomas Gobion was High Sheriff of Essex and Hertford-
shire in 1323. . . . John Gobyon is in the list of the
gentry of this county in 1433. Richard Gainford, mentioned
above, under Gaynesfords, held this maner of Gobyns in
1483, of John Doreward, as of his maner of Great Yeldham.
John, his brother, was his heir. It was afterwards in the
Wentworth family.

HAWKES-HALL,

Formerly belonged to a family surnamed De Hausted ; from
whom it passed to the St. Martins, and the noble family of
Bourchier ; in which last it continued long. Some of their

*This estate afcerwards became the property of Mr. Ralph Jephson,
by marriage with the daughter of William Raymond, of Notley.

22 THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

mesne or under-tenants were, Joane, daughter of John
Gilderich, of Peches in Finchingfeild, about 1422 ; and John
Helyoun, Lord of the maner of Bumstead-Helion, in 1450.
It is described as comprehending 100 acres of arable, 8 acres
of meadow, 8 acres of pasture, and 10 acres of wood. It
passed since to Bendlowes, &c, as Justices in Finchingfeild.

THE MANER OF BRADFIELD,

Near a mile sout-west from the church, was holden, about
the year 1393, by John Bradfend or Bradfeild, from whom it
received its name. He had also the maner of Nicholls in
Shalford. William Toppesfeild held it of John Durward, at
the time of his decease, in 1480; and his two daughters,
Elizabeth and Joane Toppesfeild, were his heirs. The latter
brought it in marriage to . . . Paynell, and was his widow
in 1498. The Paynell, or Pannell family, was in these parts
as early as the reign of King Edward I, and had an estate at
Redgewell, where John Pannell lived in 1385, and his poster-
ity continued till the reign of King James I. Henry Pannell,
Esq., who died the 18th of July 1573, held this maner of
Bradfield of the Earl of Oxford, as of his maner of Berewikes,
and other lands here. His son and heir, Henry, was then
12 years old. [This estate afterwards passed into the hands
of Mr. John Darby, of Little Waltham, Essex co., and at his
death devolved to Mr. Solomon Edwards of Thackstead.]*

*Some curious Roman remains were found on June 28, 1800, by a
labourer making a ditch at the bottom of Red Bamfield, belonging to
Bradfield Farm, situate about two miles west by south of the ancient
Roman road from Camulodunum to Camboritum, (Colchester to
Cambridge).

"The sword blade, which was very much corroded and broken in
two or three places, lay across the breast of the skeleton found
therewith; it was rather a singular situation, for in general they are
found by the side of the person interred.

The metal vase and patera merit attention. The vase was of that
form which Montfaucon calls a precefericulum used by the Romans at
their sacrifices for pouring wine into the patera.

The uses of the elegant little cups of Samian ware, one of which
has an ornamented border, have not, that I can find, been ascertained.
As they were interred with the corpse we may suppose them to
have contained holy oil, gums, balsams, unguents, &c, but this is
conjecture only. The real purposes to which they were applied must
remain at present in obscurity; we only know that such things were

L.ofC.

AN OLD COTTAGE, TOPPESFIELD, ENGLAND.
THE RECTORY, TOPPESFIELD, ENGLAND.

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY. 23

OLIVERS is an ancient capital messuage in this parish,
about three quarters of a mile south-east from the church.
John Oliver purchased an estate of John de Raclesden, about
1360, which is supposed to have been this. He was one of
Sir. John Hawkwood's Esquires, companions, and fellow-
warriors ; and concerned in founding his Chantry.*

Richard Simon was possessed, in 1627, of this tenement,
called Olivers and Dudmans, and, in 1 631, Thomas Glascock,
above mentioned, had a messuage, and 12 acres of land
thereto belonging, called Olivers ;| with Ashleies and Gadleies,
two other parcels. Here were in this parish two acres and
a half of land, called Molle, given for one obit and a lamp ;

used at their funeral obsequies, particularly unguents and perfumes of
several kinds for anointing the body before interment; therefore we may
conclude that they were used at the funeral, and were afterwards
deposited with the body, according to the custom of the ancients.

Only one Roman coin was found, and that very imperfect.
Whether it was the obolus, the naulum Charontis, is left for others to
determine. A nail and a handle of a bronze patera were found at the
same time." — Archceologia, vol. xiv,pp. 24-26, 2 plates, London, 1803.

*The friends and executors of Sir. John Hawkwood founded a famous
chantry, for one Chaplain in the church of Hedingham, to pray for the
souls of Sir John Hawkwood, Thomas Oliver, and John Newenton,
Esquires, his military companions, supposed to be born in this county.
The license for this foundation was in 1412; and the endowment
consisted of 4 messuages, 4 tofts, 420 acres of arable, 13 acres of meadow,
20 of pasture, 4 of wood, 22 of alder, and 12 s. rent, in Sible and Castle
Hengham, Gosfeild, Mapiltrested, Great and Little Gelham, and Toppes-
feild. The house where the Chantry Priest lived stands at some dis-
tance from the church, and bore then, and still bears, the name of
Hostage; having originally been a charitable foundation for the enter-
tainment of devout Pilgrims. The patronage of this chantry belonged
to the Lord of the maner of Hawkwoods.

fThis estate was occupied at one time, by Samuel Symonds, gent.,
who came to New England, in 1637, and settled at Ipswich, where the
town granted him a farm of five hundred acres, lying partly within the
present bounds of Topsfield. This farm was known on the records as
"Olivers." See ante, pp. 40, 41.

The family of Symonds was originally of Croft in Lancashire, where
they continued in a direct line for about twenty generations. Richard
Symonds of the third generation was seated in Great Yeldham, at "The
Pool," on the eastern bank of the river Colne. He married, Jan. 9, 1580,
Elizabeth, daughter of Robert Plumb, of Yeldham Hall. Samuel, the
third son, married Dorothy, daughter of Thomas Harlakenden, of Earl's-
Colne; was a Cursitor in Chancery; and had Oliver's in Toppesfield; but
retired to New England with his family. Morant.

24 THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

with about three acres more; which, at the suppression of
Chantries, were granted to Thomas Golding, Esq. Samuel
Hurrell, John Piper, Geffrey Cook, Matthias and Edmund
Davey, Tho. Orford, and Tho. Teader, have also estates
here. This parish is rated to the land-tax at 1692 £. 1 s. 4 d.
The CHURCH, dedicated to St. Margaret, is tolerably
handsome and spacious. It was formerly, all leaded ; but
is now only so in part. The chancel is tiled. About 70
years ago, the tower, which was built of flint and stone fell
down; but hath since been rebuilt, of brick, in a firm and
substantial manner ; towards which, Mr. Wilde, Rector at
the time it fell, bequeathed 100 £. To it belong five bells.
Here was, anciently, a rectory and vicarage ; of both which,
the Prior and Convent of Stoke near Clare, whilst a priory,
and when a college, the Dean and Chapter, were patrons.
In what year, and by whom given to them, is unknown.
The rectory was a sinecure; and so continued, till Thomas
Kemp, Bishop of London, finding the vicarage was grown so
poor* that it could not maintain a Vicar, or discharge the bur-
dens incumbent thereon, so that it had been vacant and neg-
lected several years, he reunited and incorporated again the
rectory and vicarage. At the dissolution of religious houses,
the patronage of this rectory coming to the Crown, King
Edward VI. gave it to his proeceptor, Sir John Cheke ; upon
whose unhappy fall, it reverted to the Crown, and hath re-
mained in it ever since ; it being a considerable living. There
are lands of about six pounds a year, belonging to the church.

TOPPESFIELD, Eng. * * * "I found the ride exceed-
ingly pleasant, along the narrow but excellent road, which
winds its way through an unbroken succession of luxuriant
cornfields and meadows. * * * It was evening when I
arrived, and the 'Green Man Inn' received me. This is a
small, but neat and comfortable tavern, and bears the marks

*At the petition of William Parker then rector, with the consent of
the clean and chapter of St. Paul, and the arch-deacon of Middlesex.

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY. 25

of a respectable antiquity. It is, in fact, just such a place
as the ale-house of Goldsmith's poem, and has been, I
presume, the nightly resort of the Toppesfield politicians,
for at least two hundred years.

When I went out the next morning, I found myself in a
small village, composed of stone cottages, mostly plastered,
white-washed and thatched. I saw nothing in them particu-
larly pleasing, beyond that aspect of neatness, and those
floral adornings, which rarely desert even the meanest rural
home in that beautiful country. My first visit was to the
church of St. Margaret. * * * The interior interested me
much. A place of worship more rude in aspect, or less
adapted to comfort, it would, I am sure, be difficult to find
in all New England. * * * The pews are narrow, upright
boxes, with high sides, and, with the exception of the
Rector's, are uncushioned and uncarpeted, a few of them,
however, were supplied with straw covered hassocks. Upon
the southern side there are four Gothic arches, which rest
upon short thick columns. On this side there is a low
gallery, erected, as an inscription shows, in 1833. The
pulpit and reading desk are on the opposite side. These are
of oak, and the former resembles, in shape and appearance,
that interesting relic, the old Capen pulpit. * * * [ln the
church registers I found] the name of Samuel Symonds, gent,
and that of Dorothy his wife. Between 1621 and 1633, I
found and copied the baptisms of ten of their children. * * *
The Parsonage is a charming residence, surrounded by
flowers and shrubbery, and smooth-shaven lawns. The
present incumbent lives among his people and seems to be
regarded with respect and affection. * * * Here I was in
a community of several hundred people, not a man of whom
owns one rood of the land which he cultivates — not an
individual of whom possesses the house that shelters him.
These skillful farmers are tenants at will — and are perpetually
struggling under an oppressive burden of rents, and tythes,
and taxes, and rates. These hardy laborers think they do
well, if their toil yields them the average remuneration of a
shilling a day. As to religious privileges they have indeed
a sitting, hired or free, in yonder rude church. Their Rector,
sent them by the Queen, may be a good man, or he may

26 THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

not. With the question of his appointment or dismission,
they have just as much concern as you have. They are,
however, permitted to pay him. From that glebe, which is
made so rich by their sweat, he draws an annual stipend, three
times as large as that which you raise for your two clergy-
men. And here, in a parish which pays its Rector more
than thirty-five hundred dollars a year, — here within four
hours ride of the grand metropolis of the world, here, in the
middle of the nineteenth century, a free school is a thing
which yet remains to be invented." — Nehemiah Clcaveland,
in Salem Register, Nov. 1851.

TOPPESFIELD, Eng. * * * "At Yeldham the only cab
we could find was a little dog-cart with a Welch pony that
hardly came up to the shafts. However, this was all that
was necessary and the owner told us he would take us for
two shillings if we 'didn't think that much would harm us.'
He proved himself capable of giving considerable informa-
tion about the church and the chapels (as Congregational and
Methodist churches are called in England) as his father had
been Parish Clerk at Yeldham for a good many years, but
when I asked him the origin of the name Toppesfield his
answer was : 'Well, that's a question I could hardly answer,
Sir. They must-a-caught it as it come along. Come by a
whirlwind perhaps.' Mr. Lane, the genial teacher of the
parish, told us that the only reason he could find was from
the fact of its being the topmost village in the shire. * * *
We had been informed that some years before, a gentleman
from Topsfield, America, had come to see the graves of his
ancestors ; the woman who told us could not remember the
name, and so we mentioned over the names of Cleveland,
Peabody, Bradstreet, thinking it might be some of these, but
none of them seemed familiar. Finally the mother came in
and said : 'Why, it was the one who had six wives, Joseph
Smith* was the name.'

♦Joseph Smith, the Mormon prophet, was of Topsfield ancestry.
The Smith referred to may have been a descendant.

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY. 2"]

The present school was built in 1856 by the then Rector,
Rev. Mr. Gooch. It has accommodations for two hundred
children and has one hundred and forty names on the
register." — Rev. Lyndon S. Crawford, in Salem Gazette,
Nov. 2J, 1886.

Toppesfield, Eng. * * * "All the fields are separated
by hedges and these are generally well kept. The whole
country looks neat and tidy. * * * The village was but a
handful of houses along a narrow road or two, without any
sidewalks to speak of. We left our traps at the 'Green Man'
inn and got a glass of home brew, rather sour and not very
good. * * * Xhe Church itself is not at all large, and
would hardly seat two hundred persons. It was built early
in the 16th century, and has been very well preserved,
Even during the Commonwealth, it was not much disturbed.
It is one of the very few parishes whose records are kept
throughout that period without a break. We were assured
that that was a very unusual circumstance." — Brandreth
Symonds, in Essex County Mercury, Oct. 24., 1894..

Toppesfield, Eng. * * * In approaching Toppesfield,
the high hills of the town come into view before the train
leaves you in the valley. The station building might be
called a primitive one: — old, dilapidated, and inconvenient.
Nevertheless it serves for the transaction of the limited business
of a small country station. The village is about one and a
half miles from the station, if one takes the short cut across
the fields on foot in a direct line. The road makes a detour
in a southerly and southwesterly and then in a northwesterly
course to avoid the steep acclivity, and covers about two miles
before reaching the village. The way for the most part is a
gentle ascent, — one rise of many rods being steeper than the
rest.

28 THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

We first reach that part of the village where the rectory
is located. It is large and commodious for a place of the
size of that in which it is situated. The building is almost
entirely obscured by shade trees, shrubbery and evergreen.
Passing on some twenty or thirty rods, in a northerly direc-
tion, going by several dwellings we come to the end of the
street that we have traversed. Here we meet another street
lying east and west, — the principal street of the village. Near
the right hand corner is St. Margaret's — the parish church.
Farther on to the right is the school house. Near the left hand
corner is a chapel where the Nonconformists worship. To
the westward some rods, is the post-office.

I did not explore the whole village, but it will be seen
by the location of the public buildings that I was in the
central and most important part of it. St. Margaret's Church
has been an active force in the village for eight hundred
years. . . . The interior as well as the exterior has all the
marks of an old structure. Few changes have been made in
modern times that conceal its ancient appearance. * * * A
tablet on the wall of the interior has a list of rectors extend-
ing back three hundred years and more, I transcribed
some of the names that may be interesting to Topsfield
people. 1559, Thomas Donnell, B. D. ; 1 601, William Smith ;
1604, Randolph Davenport; 1662, Nathaniel Ward; 1691,
Thomas Willett; 1694, Robert Wilde.

A curious fact to be noticed in the list of rectors is that
in the days of the Commonwealth there is a break in the list
with a statement that there was a vacancy in those years.
Although there was no "rector," doubtless there was preach-
ing in the church by Dissenters in that interval. The church
stands in the midst of, and is entirely surrounded by the
churchyard. The small cemetery is still in use for burials.
I noticed that they were opening graves in what appeared to
be the oldest part of the yard. The inscriptions on the
oldest monuments are illegible as well they might be in a
cemetery eight hundred years old. I noticed the monument
of Henry Howlett, who died in 1773, aged 72.

The chapel of the Nonconformists I did not enter. It is
a very plain and unpretending building.

TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTIETH ANNIVERSARY. 29

The post office is in the house of the post master.
Apartments of modest proportions are set apart for the
government office. There is no room for the floating popu-
lation of the town to assemble in for social intercourse, to talk
over the news of the day, and enjoy the village gossip. In
fact if there was such a place in the village I failed to dis-
cover it.

The houses, barns, and out-buildings are generally built
of brick. The style of architecture is not pretentious. There
is not the facility for architectural display in small brick
buildings, that there is by working in wood. I noticed here
as well as through England, as far as I travelled, the pro-
jecting second story of old houses, like that of our own
Capen house. One house in particular, better than the
average, in the old style, I was informed was a modern built
house. They have a way in England, and I think to a great
extent, of building after the style of several hundred years
ago, to have the buildings conform those in the neigh-
borhood.

The most of the people, I suppose, would be reckoned
in the middle class. Some as indigent or poor. The better
classes have comfortable homes, and show intelligence and
cultivation.

Toppesfield is especially an agricultural town. It has a
good soil. The soil of Essex is not as fertile as that of some
other parts of the kingdom. I heard Englishmen in speak-
ing of the county, say that the land in Essex is poor. Such
may be the case as far as the county in general is considered,
but I think an exception must be made in the case of the
plateau upon which Toppesfield is situated ; for there the
farmers were harvesting good crops and the land was making
abundant returns for the labor and skill of the husbandmen ;
much better probably than the average of the county. The
principal crops are wheat, barley, vegetables and hay. Being
remote from any large town, market gardening is not carried
on. Much of the hay crop is stacked in the fields where it
is gathered, as it is in other parts of England. I noticed
stacks that had breasted the storms of one or more winters,
notwithstanding the great demand for forage on account of
the wars in which the nation was engaged. The barley

3Q

THE TOWN OF TOPSFIELD.

product is largely used for malt to brew the universal English
beer. It was wheat harvest when I was there. I saw an
abundant yield of wheat on the highest land in the village,
as large, I should judge, as that of the most fertile parts of
the island. The parish of St. Margeret's has some of the
best land in the place, I do not know how many acres, some
of which is divided into small "allotments," each of an acre
or less, one half, one quarter, or one eighth of an acre.
These are let, at a low rental, to indigent people of the parish
who have no land, the proceeds of which go to help other
poor people.

The following Toppesfield names taken from the voting
list are of interest as being common to our own Topsfield
and vicinity: — Allen, Barker, Barnes, Clarke, Davison, Hale,
Hardy, Palmer, Reed, Rice, Smith, Wilson.

Justin Allen, M. D., March 15, igoi.

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