SONORA:
ITS EXTENT, POPULATION, NATURAL PRODUCTIONS.
INDIAN TRIBES, MINES, MINERAL
LANDS, ETC., ETC.
TRANSLATED FROM THE SPANISH OF FRANCISCO VELASCO
M
BY WM. F. NYE.
LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF
CALIFORNIA.
SAN FRANCISCO:
H. H. BANCROFT AND COMPANY.
1861.
Entered according to Act of Congress, A. D. 1861,
BY WM. P. NYE AND WM. T. KOBINSON,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Northern District of California.
TOWNE <fc BACON, PRINTERS, 503 CLAY STREET, SAN FRANCISCO.
PREFACE.
OF the original Spanish work from which this translation
is made, there are but few copies in existence ; one of which
WAS obtained by Mr. Robinson, through the courtesy of the
Prefect of Alamos.
The author, Don Francisco Velasco, was a native of Sonora,
and held various official positions of responsibility — among
others, that of Secretary of State, and member of the Federal
Congress. Although he modestly remarks in his preface, that
his principal motive in giving his book to the public was that
it might induce some person better informed than himself to
furnish more full and accurate statistics, his work is universally
recognized in Sonora as the best, and in fact, the only reliable
one that has yet been published upon this subject. The
translator has selected such portions of the original as in
his judgment will be the most interesting to the general
reader, and the most important to those having a direct in-
terest in Sonora.
SAN FRANCISCO, May, 1861.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
SITUATION, EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES OF SONORA.
CHAPTER II.
CLIMATE 17
CHAPTER III.
POPULATION 25
CHAPTER IV.
CAPITAL OF THE STATE 31
CHAPTER V.
CITY OF HERMOSILLO AND ITS DEPARTMENTS 34
CHAPTER VI.
RIVER YAQUI AND ITS SETTLEMENTS 47
CHAPTER VII.
RIVER MAYO AND ITS SETTLEMENTS 61
CHAPTER VIII.
PRESIDIO OF ALTAR, NOW THE TOWN OF GUADALUPE 65
" OF SANTA CRUZ, 68
CHAPTER IX.
PRESIDIO DE BACUACHI 70
" OF FRONTERAS 72
" OF TUBAC 73
" OF TUCSON. ., ,74
VI CONTENTS.
CHAPTER X.
PRESIDIO OF BABISPE 79
" OF SAN CARLOS DE BUENAVISTA 81
CHAPTER XI.
CERIS AND THE ISLAND OF TIBURON 87
PUEBLO OF CERIS, OR SAN PEDRO DE LA CONQUISTA 93
CHAPTER XII.
OPATA SETTLEMENTS 97
PAPAGOS « 100
CHAPTER XIII.
MINES IN SONORA 104
CHAPTER XIV.
MINES THAT ARE WORKED AT THE PRESENT DAY 125
CHAPTER XV.
MINES OF IRON, LEAD, COPPER AND QUICKSILVER 146
OTHER MINERALS AND STONES OF VALUE 151
CHAPTER XVI.
APACHE TRIBES: THEIR POPULATION, MANNERS, CUSTOMS, ETC. 156
APPENDIX.
PRESENT CONDITION OF SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL MINES OF
ALAMOS DISTRICT 174
PROVISIONS RELATIVE TO THE DISCOVERY AND DENOUNCE-
MENT OF MINES .. .181
SONORA.
LIBRARY^
UNIVERSITY OF
ALIFORNIA. .
CHAPTER I.
SITUATION, EXTENT, AND BOUNDARIES OF THE
STATE OF SONORA.
WHEN Sonora and Sinaloa formed one
State (called the Western State) it extend-
ed from the river " de las Canas," which di-
vided it from the State of Jalisco, to the
river Gila on the north, and was four hun-
dred and sixty-five leagues in length. But
when, in 1830, this State was divided into
two, the south-eastern boundary of Sonora was
fixed on the border of the Mezquite rancho,
eighteen leagues south of the city of Ala-
mos, on the road to "villa del Fuerte." The
distance from the said Mezquite (the divid-
ing line between Sonora and Sinaloa) to
Ures, is one hundred and eighteen leagues,
10 SONORA.
and thence to the Gila one hundred and
forty-five leagues; the entire length of the
State thus being two hundred and sixty-
three leagues.
Its breadth is very irregular, as from the
Mezquite towards the interior, the Sierra
Madre gradually recedes until it is out of
sight from the main road, whilst numerous
plains exist, of ten or more leagues in ex-
tent, some broken by small ranges of hills,
which appear from the road to be isolated
mountains. Its mean breadth from the west-
ern side of the Sierra Madre, which divides
it from the State of Chihuahua, to the gulf
of California, has not been exactly ascer-
tained; but all the inhabitants who are ac-
quainted wTith the geography of the country
.agree that its breadth, in its narrowest part,
viz: between Mezquite and Alamos, is not
less than forty leagues; in the parallel of
Arispe it exceeds one hundred and thirty
leagues, and at the Gila, reckoning from the
pass of Carretas — which is the lowest of the
EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES. 11
Sierra Madre — to the river Colorado, one of
its western boundaries, trie breadth is far
greater and has not yet been denned.
The general direction of the State is from
north-west to south-east, along the Gulf of
California, its western boundary. It is
bounded on the north by New California,
and by a number of barbarous tribes beyond
the Gila, whose limits are unknown.
The name of Sonora, according to the
most authentic accounts, is derived from the
Opata word Sonot, which means Senora, an
appellation bestowed by the Spanish con-
querors upon an Indian woman, who treated
them with great hospitality when they vis-
ited the settlements of that tribe ; the In-
dians, in attempting to imitate the Spaniards^
pronounced the word Sonot, instead of Seno-
ra, and it was gradually corrupted into So-
nora. This State comprises the province
that was formerly called Upper Sonora, and
contains the departments of Arispe, Ciene-
guilla, Horcasitas and Hostimuri, in which
12 SONORA.
are included the department of Alamos and
the settlements on the rivers Mayo and Ya-
qui. The territory of the State also includes
the presidial establishments, viz : Buenavista,
Pitic — now the city of Hermosillo — Altar,
Santa Cruz, Fronteras, Tubac, Bacuachi,
Babispe and Tucson, where the captains or
commanders of garrisons formerly exercised
all political, judicial and military authority ;
at present there are no presidios in exist-
ence.
The face of the country is of unequal ele-
vation; being in the neighborhood of the
Sierra lofty and broken, whilst in the inte-
rior, and also on the coast, there are plains
and valleys of immense extent. Its area,
between the Mezquite and the Gila, may be
estimated at 42,869 square leagues.
The rivers are few in number in compari-
son with Sinaloa, which contains eleven. In
the State of Sonora there are really no riv-
ers, except the Buenavista or Yaqui, the only
one of importance, and the Conicari or Mayo,
EXTENT AND BOUNDARIES. 13
both of which emanate from the copious
springs of the Sierra Madre. After these,
we may mention the Arispe or Sonora, which
passes through Ures and Hermosillo, and
loses its waters in the sandy plains of Siete
Cerritos, seven leagues to the west of Her-
mosillo, and the Horcasitas, also called Ray-
on, Opodepe and Cucurpe, which joins the
Arispe one league and a half east of Her-
mosillo. The Oposura, Aribechi, Santa Cruz,
San Jose de Pimas, Tecoripa, Altar and Ca-
borca are mere creeks, fordable when their
waters are high, and partially dry in times
of drought, some of them disappearing in
the sands.
On the northern frontier are two rivers
which truly deserve the name, viz: the Col-
orado, the largest of all the streams in So-
nora or Sinaloa, and the Gila, which joins
the Colorado near the point at which it emp-
ties into the Gulf of California. The only
rivers that empty into the sea are the Colo-
rado, Buenavista and Conicari ; all the oth-
B
14 SONORA.
ers either join these first, or are lost in the
sandy plains of the coast.
The State contains no port suitable for
commerce, except that of Guaymas, which,
according to manners, is the best in the
Gulf of California. In Santa Cruz de Mayo,
in the department of Alamos, there is a small
bay or roadstead, commonly called the port
of Santa Cruz, which is occasionally visited
by a schooner or launch from Lower Cali-
fornia, laden with dried fruit and olives.
That portion of Sonora lying between
Merzquite and the ancient capital city, Ar-
ispe, is sterile in comparison with the region
further north. The most thickly settled
places are upon the banks of the rivers and
creeks, whilst in the interior settlements be-
tween Alamos and Hermosillo there is so
great a scarcity of water on the roads, that
the traveler is compelled to carry a supply
with him. It is not uncommon to travel
eight, or even sixteen leagues, without find-
ing a stream, or a place where water may
EXTENT AND BO
be procured by digging. On that part of
the coast called Tiburon, to the west of
Hermosillo, the distance between watering
places is still greater, and the supply more
scanty ; and on the old road of Cieneguilla,
which is from fifty to sixty leagues in length,
there are but three watering places, includ-
ing one well.
On the road from Hermosillo to the port
of Guaymas, in the dry season, no water is
to be had for thirty-six leagues, except at
La Posa and La Cieneguilla \ and it is occa- N
sionally so scarce at these places that foot
passengers perish from thirst. The coast is
so dry that the rancheros have sunk wells
in different parts of it thirty and forty yards
in depth, without finding moisture. The
region between Arispe and the Gila, how-v
ever, is well watered by numerous creeks,
and abounds in pools and swamps ; and the
mountains are well supplied with water and
timber of various kinds, such as cedar, pine,
evergreen-oak, ebony, etc., well stocked with
16 SONORA.
deer and birds, and contain medicinal herbs
of marvelous efficacy, one of which, called
" Colorada," is used by the Apaches for the
treatment of wounds. The valleys are ex-
pansive and beautiful, abundantly watered,
and clothed in verdure during the entire
year ; and nature has lavished her vegeta-
ble and mineral wealth upon these frontier
regions with so prodigal a hand, that they
may well be called the Paradise of Sonora.
The- inscrutable decree of the Almighty has
bestowed them upon savages, incapable of
appreciating or enjoying his munificent gift.
LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF
CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER II.
CLIMATE.
THE climate of Sonora is subject to the
extremes of heat and cold. In the winter
season, especially in the frontier settlements,
the cold weather commences in the latter
part of October, and is extremely severe
from November until March. Ice has fre-
quently been formed in October; but this is
not usually the case until November or De-
cember. In the settlements nearest the
frontier, the frosts set in earlier than in the
interior towns ; indeed, in these last, three
or four years occasionally pass without frost,
and this is especially the case in the settle-
ments nearest to the coast, such as Hermo-
sillo, Buena Vista, Alamos, Yaqui, Mayo, etc.
18 SONORA.
Warm weather commences in May, and
the heat becomes extreme during the months
of June, July and August — in September it
is moderated by refreshing rains — the mer-
cury frequently reaching more than one
hundred degrees Fahrenheit at Hermosillo,
Guaymas, Ures, Buena Vista, and San Anto-
nio de la Huerta, these places suffering more
from heat than any others in Sonora.
Hermosillo is occasionally visited by a hot
wind, which blows from eleven of the morn-
ing till four of the afternoon, during which
period no one ventures into the street, un-
less urged by business or imperative neces-
sity. On one occasion, a few years since, such
was the fury of the withering blast, that it
seemed to scorch the skin like a furnace ;
hares, deer, cayotes and other wild animals
flocked to the settlements for refuge, and
plants and trees perished at the root. In
Guaymas, this wind makes its appearance
every year, when least expected, and some-
times blows for four and twenty hours. It
CLIMATE. 19
is a remarkable circumstance that it does not
extend more than a league from the coast,
seaward, and that while it prevails, fresh
water deposited in jars continues deliciously
cool, even in summer.
It is the general custom throughout the
States to throw aside, in the beginning of
June, the woolen mattresses that have been
used during the winter, and the poorer
classes abandon the interior of their houses,
and pass the night in the corridors or court
yards ; others, so unfortunate as to have but
one room or no enclosed corridor, sleep in
the streets in front of their huts, when the
heat within becomes insufferable. In some
towns, however, as in Hermosillo, the nights
are cooler, on account of the southerly
breeze, which sets in at eight o'clock ; when
this fails, as sometimes happens, the inhabit-
ants court sleep in vain.
In some of the frontier settlements, such
as Arispe, Bacoachi and Fronteras, the win-
ter is longer than the summer ; and at the
20 SONORA.
presidio of Santa Cruz, cold weather pre-
vails during the entire year, this phenome-
non being confined to that particular local-
ity.
We see, then, that the climate of Sonora
is neither moderate nor temperate, notwith-
standing which serious epidemic diseases are
unknown, except in a few places ; as, for
example, in Hermosillo, where diarrhoea and
phthisic prevail to a limited extent. On the
rivers Oposura and Laguaripa, as well as in
Cosola, Rosario and other towns in Sinaloa,
the inhabitants are subject to an excres-
cence or fleshy tumor upon the neck, called
"buche." This is more common among wo-
men than men. In the frontier settlements,
and especially in those of "Pimeria Alta,"
intermittent fevers are not uncommon, but
are to be attributed rather to the immoder-
ate use of fruit than to the climate. These
fevers sometimes make their appearance in
the interior of the State, but they do not
spread, nor are they of long continuance.
CLIMATE. 21
It may safely be affirmed that the climate
of Sonora is not only salubrious, but far more
so than that of the adjoining States or those
in the center of the Republic. This may be
attributed to the purity of its atmosphere,
the dryness of its soil, which contains no la-
goons or pools of stagnant water, exhaling
noxious vapors, and to the various and con-
stant winds from the Sierra Madre, the north
and the sea, which, sweeping over deserts
and sparsely settled regions, have necessa-
rily a purifying effect upon the atmosphere.
Those terrible epidemics that have decimat-
ed the human race in other climes, are as
yet unknown in Sonora. In Guaymas, Mat-
ape, Horcasitas and Arispe, days and even
months frequently elapse without the occur-
rence of a single death. It is not uncom-
mon to encounter in these, places as well as
in the presidio of Altar or Cavorca, persons
over one hundred years of age (two attained
the respective ages of a hundred and four-
teen and a hundred and thirty) and the av-
22 SONORA.
erage duration of human life, when prudence
and temperance are observed, may be set
down at from seventy to eighty years. It
is true that such longevity is not common in
the interior; but this is owing more to ex-
cesses than to the climate. The strongest
proof of the purity of the atmosphere is the
fact that even the Indian tribes, exposed as
they are to the inclemency of the weather,
half naked, poorly fed, subjected to severe
and exhausting labors and deprived of med-
ical assistance, generally attain the same age
as the whites.
In the last century, according to tradition
and the statements of the oldest inhabitants,
the small pox and the measles made their
apppearance about every twenty years ; in
the present century, the intervals have been
less, viz : from sixteen to eighteen years.
The ravages of the small pox, however, are
trifling, in comparison to what they were
before the introduction of vaccination, which
is now practised in all parts of the State.
CLIMATE. 23
There is not a hospital in the State, nor a
drug store worthy of the name ; the only
one being in Hermosillo, poorly supplied
with drugs of inferior quality, and without
any practical chemist or apothecary. Neith-
er are there any established physicians of
accredited skill and experience, the few who
are found in the State being foreigners, who
are only applied to in cases of urgent neces-
sity; the inhabitants, in case of sickness, be-
ing generally left to the tender mercies of
quacks and old women.
Venereal diseases are not common, except
in the settlements near the coast, especially
those of the river Yaqui ; in the interior
they are rarely seen.
At. the changes of the seasons, catarrhs
frequently prevail, but are generally mild
and seldom induce fever.
Although the night air, on the coast and
in the central States of the Eepublic, is
deadly in its effects, in Sonora, no harm re-
sults from sleeping in the open air. The
24 SONORA.
most dangerous diseases among children are
those which accompany teething, such as
diarrhoea, intermittent fevers, vomiting, op-
thalmia, and eruptions of the face. These
are so prevalent as to annually cause the
death of quite one-fourth part of the children
born in the State. Those that pass the pe-
riod of teething in safety, generally enjoy
good health until they arrive at the age of
puberty.
LIBRARY
NIVERSITY OF
CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER III,
POPULATION.
IN the absence of positive and reliable sta-
tistics, based upon a census properly taken,
it is impossible to ascertain the exact popu-
lation of the State of Sonora, or to classify
the inhabitants by sexes, ages, occupations,
etc., but we will endeavor to make an esti-
mate, which, although imaginary, may be
approximate to the truth, and therefore call
attention to the following facts.
The city of Hermosillo, in 1830, contained
according to the census 5,000 souls; and in
1840, 13,665, including, as estimated, about
2,000 Yaqui Indians, of whom no census
could be taken. The same rate of increase
c
26 SONORA.
for the last ten years, would give 20,482 as
the present population; this we consider
to be above the mark ; but there is no doubt
that the population, including Indians, does
not fall short of 15,000.
Ures, the present capital of the State, con-
tained according to the census of 1822 less
than 2,000 souls; at present its population
is not less than 7,000.
The population of the town of Oposura,
in the same year, was 2,534 ; at present it
does not contain more than 3,000, the emi-
gration thence having been very great, on
account of its exposure to the incursions of
the Apaches.
The port of San Fernando de Guaymas,
with the town of San Jose — generally called
the rancho of San Jose de Guaymas, did not
contain one thousand inhabitants in 1828 ;
the present population is not less than 3,000.
The city of Alamos, in 1828; was supposed
.-
to contain from 5,000 to 7,000 inhabitants,
but owing to the emigration resulting from
POPULATION. 27
the decadence of its mines, the present pop-
ulation does not exceed 6,000.
The town of Guadalupe del Altar, one of
the frontier presidios, contained but 2,645
inhabitants in 1822, but since the important
mineral discoveries in 1837, its population
has increased to 6,000.
The population of the town of Horcasitas
was, in 1822, 2,460, and in the twenty-three
years since, it has probably not increased
more than one-third, owing to the depopula-
tion of many ranchos, on account of the
ravages of the Apaches. We may estimate
its present number of inhabitants at 3,280.
The mineral region of Yaroyeca probably
contains about the same number of inhabi-
tants as in 1822, viz : 2,460 ; frequent emi-
gration having retarded its increase.
, The population of the old capital city, x
Arispe, which in 1822 amounted to 2,079,
does not at present exceed 1,000 of all ages
and sexes.
The entire population of all the settle-
28 SONORA.
ments on the river Yaqui, in 1822, was esti-
mated at 5,501 persons; add to which 6,000
others beyond the river and scattered over
the State, and we have a total of 11,501.
This we may consider to be the present
number of these Indians, as many perished
in the outbreaks of 1825, 1826 and 1832,
and in the civil wars of Gandara and Urrea.
The town of Ceris, according to the last
census in 1844, contained 3,000 inhabitants
of all ages and sexes.
From the preceding statistics of the pop-
ulation of the larger or principal towns and
settlements of the State in 1822, and their
probable rate of increase up to 1845, they
should now contain 72,995 souls, as shown
by the following statement :
Population of the above mentioned pueblos in 1822 58,396
Add one-fourth as the probable increase in twenty-three
years, from 1822 to 1845 14,599
Total 72,995
Add to this the population of the small settlements, which
have not increased on account of the depredations of
the Apaches 12,669
Total population 85,664
POPU
NOTES.
1. The mining region of Cieneguilla,
which in 1822 contained 1,589 souls, is en-
tirely depopulated.
2. The mineral region of Aigame had a
population in 1822 of 2,543, but is now noth-
ing more than a private rancho.
3. The presidio of Basuchi had a popula-
tion of nine hundred and fifty-nine, but is
now nearly depopulated.
4. Fronteras, a presidio, formerly had six
hundred and thirty-five inhabitants, but is
now entirely depopulated on account of the
Apaches.
5. Bananchi formerly had a population of
1,746, but is now nearly depopulated for
the same reason. Many other pueblos and
ranches have shared the same fate.
Although the Papago Indians do not as-
sociate with the whites, they nevertheless
form a part of the population of the State,
and recognize its government. As they
number 20,000 souls, and the Mayo Indians
30 SONORA.
— who may also be included — 7,000 more,
we may safely estimate' the Copulation of
Sonora at over 100,000 persons.
L I B 11 A R Y
UNIVERSITY OF
CALIFORNIA.
CHAPTER IT.
CAPITAL OF THE STATE,
THE capital city, Ures, is situated in a most
beautiful valley, stretching from east to west,
the soil of which is exceedingly fertile, and
suitable for the production of all kinds of
fruits, excellent wheat and other cereals.
Several hundred " cargas " of sugar are an-
nually produced, also cotton of superior
quality; but the progress of the place is
slow, owing to the epidemic which visits it
every two or three years.
The environs of Tires are picturesque, and
contain several important haciendas of ara-
ble land, such as Santa Kita, Molino, Guad-
alupe, Topagui and others. There are no
public buildings, except certain small houses
32 SONORA.
purchased during the administration of Gen-
eral Urrea to form a palace. The present
Governor is erecting a penitentiary, or house
of correction, there being but one prison on
the skirts of the city, and that extremely
insecure.
The private buildings are irregular, frail,
and with no pretensions to beauty. All are
built of adobe, although there is excellent
stone for building in the neighborhood of
the city.
Ures has the great misfortune of being
subject to frequent inundations, since it is
immediately surrounded by various creeks,
which, when swollen by heavy rains, con-
stantly threaten the city with ruin. Its
principal branch of industry is the manufac-
ture of mantillas, but much progress might
be made in other branches, under a quiet
and peaceable order of things.
It is particularly exposed to the depreda-
tions of the Apaches, notwithstanding which
its population has materially increased since
CAPITAL OF THE STATE. 33
1825 ; this, however, is partly owing to the
emigration from the frontiers of many, who,
having witnessed the slaughter of their fam-
ilies by the savages, sought refuge and pro-
tection in the city.
Ures has an ayuntamiento, prefecture,
judge of first instance and a primary school.
The attorney general also resides there, but
the Supreme Tribunal of Justice holds its
sessions at Hermosillo.
CHAPTER V.
CITY OF HERMOSILLO AND ITS DEPARTMENT.
THE capital of this department is the city
of Hermosillo, distant from the Gulf of Cal-
ifornia thirty leagues on the west, and thirty-
six leagues on the south. It was originally
called Pitic, having been one of the old pre-
sidios. It is now the first town in the de-
partment, its elements of progress being
certain and increasing. Its climate is dry
and very warm ; from the middle of spring
till the beginning of autumn, the thermom-
eter frequently reaching ninety-six or nine-
ty-eight degrees Fahrenheit, and sometimes
over one hundred; but immediately after
sunset, a refreshing westerly breeze springs
up, which compensates for the intense heat
CITY OF HERMOSILLO. 35
during the day. The winters are not severe,
and their temperature is very variable, some-
times rising nearly to summer heat. The
atmosphere during the greater part of the
year is clear.
No epidemics visit this city, excepting
catarrhs and light fevers ; neither are there
any noxious insects, the only ones found be-
ing ants, the bite of which is neither painful
nor dangerous.
It is situated in a valley about three and
a half leagues in length and one and a half
in breadth, sheltered on the north by vari-
ous hills, on the west by the range of hills
called Chanate, and on the east by the
" Cerro de la Campana " — hill of the bell —
so called because its rocks, when struck to-
gether, produce a sound similar to that of a
bell. The base of this hill is bathed by a
small stream running from east to west,
which is sufficient to irrigate the lands be-
tween San Juanico and Chanate cultivated
by the inhabitants of the city, and of the
36 SONOBA.
pueblo of Ceris, which is in sight to the
south ; the said lands being in length, from
east to west, four to five leagues. A large
aqueduct passes through the middle of the
settlement, which also serves for irrigating
the neighboring lands ; another passes near
the river and the " Cerro de la Campana,"
and a third divides the city north and south,
furnishing water to the houses, orchards and
gardens in the immediate neighborhood.
Hermosillo, according to the last census
of 1840, contained 11,655 inhabitants, to
which should be added 2,000 Yaqui Indians,
making the total population 13,655. Its
present population — in 1843 — according to
the regular rate of increase, should not be
less than 14,000.
The average annual quantity of its agri-
cultural products, as near as we can estimate,
is 25,000 fanegas of wheat— about 64,000
bushels ; 100,000 fanegas of maize, and
5,000 of other cereals, beans and lentiles.
There are also raised in abundance, Chile
CITY OP HERMOSILLO. 37
pepper, garlic, onions, gourds of all classes
and sizes, and sweet potatoes.
Other vegetables are scarce, as they are
seldom cultivated.
The fruits are abundant, and of excellent
quality, especially the grapes, musk and wa-
ter melons ; and figs grow in such profusion
that large quantities are wasted ; poor peo-
ple are permitted by the owners of land to
gather all that fall from the trees. Sweet
and sour oranges, lemons, citrons, limes,
pomegranates and peaches, are also abun-
dant, though not equal in quality to those
of Arispe and San Ignacio. The guava is
cultivated, and the plantain tree attains a
large size, and is loaded with fruit, which
gradually falls as it ripens.
The cultivation of the vine has tended
much to the aggrandizement of the city.
The average annual product of the grape
is 1,500 barrels of aguadiente of one hun-
dred and twenty-five quarts each, as many
of vinegar, and but a few barrels of wine ;
D
38 SONORA.
since it has been found impossible, even with
the greatest care, to make good wine, it in-
variably turning sour on the approach of
hot weather. But few raisins are made, and
those are of inferior quality. We have
heard from various proprietors of vineyards
that their profits were two, three and four
thousand dollars per annum; but, if they
exercised greater economy, and possessed
sufficient experience to manufacture wines
and brandies equal to those of Europe, their
gains would be infinitely greater.
The cultivation of cotton was commenced
in the year 1811 by several persons; among
them, Don Kafael Diaz, who succeeded in
raising good crops, and manufactured narrow
cloths, half a yard in width. For two or
three years this enterprise steadily advanced,
but then an incurable disease attacked the
plant, and after many fruitless attempts to
remedy this, its cultivation was abandoned.
This continued until 1842, when a few per-
sons, stimulated by the establishment of the
CITY OF HERMOSILLO. 39
cloth manufactory of Los Angeles, took steps
to revive the cultivation of cotton, and there
are now several considerable plantations on
the estates, four to eight leagues to the west
of the city, called Tennaje and Palomos, and
at " Chino Gordo," four leagues to the east.
The cultivation of the sugar cane has
also been unsuccessful, the general opinion
being that neither the soil nor climate is
suitable for this plant ; some " cargas " of
sugar, however, are produced, mostly in San
Jnanica and Ceris. Within two years, the
cultivation of the large cane of the coast
has been commenced, and this, if success-
ful, will be an important branch of agri-
culture.
The soil of Sonora is not generally fertile,
though more so in some parts than in others.
Upon a hacienda of Messrs. Astiaseranes,
and that of Topajui, on the road to Ures,
the average yield of wheat is two hundred
and fifty or three hundred to one ; and many
others are equally productive. In the haci-
40 SONORA.
endas of Hermosillo, the yield, though not
so large, is still respectable, being from one
hundred and fifty to one hundred and sev-
enty to one from the better lands, but not
more than fifty to one from the least pro-
ductive.
Hermosillo contains several carpenter and
blacksmith shops, and great improvement
has been made in these branches, thanks to
foreigners who have settled in the country.
We have seen wardrobes and other pieces
of furniture quite equal to those made in
the United States.
The public buildings are: First — The
mint, which has been idle for some years, for
want of direction and supplies, and. now
serves as barracks for the troops. Second —
The assayer's office, which is much dilapi-
dated. Third — The municipal buildings, in-
cluding the prison — almost in ruins — and
the primary school. This school is now
held in a building purchased by the city,
and is in charge of Don Antonio Villalpando.
CITY OF
It consists of two departments, male and
female, and the number of pupils exceeds
one hundred ; public examinations are held
every six months. The principal plaza, in
front of the church, is four hundred varas
square, two of its sides being enclosed by
private dwellings, and the other two .by
the church and municipal buildings. The
church was built when Hermosillo was the
presidio of Pitic, and is sadly in want of
repairs. It is poorly supplied with sacred
utensils, but three of which are of silver,
viz : a cibary and two censers. The former
is valued at $2,000.
To the west of the city is a chapel, dedi-
cated to San Antonio, which is fast falling
to decay on account of the encroachments
of the river, and has consequently been
abandoned. On the east is the chapel of
Nuestra Senora del Carmen — small, but in
good condition — and a ruined chapel on the
north.
The trade of Hermosillo was formerly car-
42 SONORA.
ried on with the city of Mexico, but at pres-
ent it is confined to the port of Guaymas.
There are about twenty-five or thirty
shops and mercantile establishments in the
city, and only three or four merchants can
be called capitalists ; all others transact bus-
iness on credit, and are frequently compelled
to borrow money upon interest to meet their
engagements.
The exact value of the goods annually
used and consumed in Hermosillo we can-
not positively state ; but to the best of our
knowledge, it is not far from $800,000.
There is a small market for the sale of
meat, fruits and vegetables ; but, in the ab-
sence of proper regulations, it is neither
cleanly nor commodious. There are no reg-
ular bakeries ; and consequently, in a coun-
try that produces an abundance of excellent
wheat, it is almost impossible to procure
good bread.
Inns, hotels, or public houses, are un-
known. Travelers supplied with letters of
CITY OF HERMOSILLO. 43
introduction take up their quarters in pri-
vate houses; those not so fortunate must
either hire apartments, or, failing in this, en-
camp under the trees outside of the city.
The towns belonging to the department
of Hermosillo are six in number ; of these,
Guaymas is the most important.
It is situated on the Gulf of California,
on the western coast of Mexico, in latitude
27° 22' north, and longitude 104° 30' west
of Cadiz. It is completely sheltered from
the sea and winds, and is one of the best
harbors upon the Pacific. The entrance
runs north and south, and is formed by the
island of Pajaros on the east, and the islands
of San Vicente, Pitayas and Tierra Firma
on the west. There is also another en-
trance, called Boca Chica, formed by the
island of Pajaros, on the south, and the
beach of Cochin on the north. The length
of the bay is four to five miles. The bot-
tom is muddy, and when vessels remain for
some time, it is necessary to sight the an-
44 SONORA.
chors every fortnight. The depth of water
at the island of Pajaros is seven fathoms,
which gradually decreases to two, alongside
of the mole. This latter, according to the
opinion of mariners, is one of the best on
the Pacific, excepting that at Callao. The
depth of water at the anchorage is three
fathoms, and vessels drawing fifteen feet are
loaded, discharged and hove down with fa-
cility. There are three landing places ; but
no fortifications, although there are several
points well suited to the purpose.
The tides are irregular and uncertain, i>6;
ing influenced by the winds from the gufif
In time of full and new moon, they rise and
fall eighteen to twenty inches, and in the
autumnal equinox, about four feet.
The harbor abounds in various kinds of
delicate fish ; and shell-fish are also numer-
ous, comprising the shrimp, crab, lobster,
oyster, and muscles of different kinds. The
town is situated on the north of the bay, and
is surrounded by a range of hills of moder-
CITY OF HERMOSILLO. 45
1 '
ate height, which leave but one single en-
^trance from the land side. There is but one
principal street from the entrance to the plaza,
the other being short and narrow; the soil
**• is dry and rocky. The cold is not severe,
but the north and north-west winds blow\y
with great violence from November until
March, and cause much inconvenience. The
summer heat is excessive, the thermometer
occasionally rising to 104° in the shade, and
never falling below 96° from June to Sep-
tember; and when the north wind blows
during this season, it is so dry and parching
in its effects, that it ruins the finer articles
of furniture.
The health of the place is good, the prin-
cipal disorder being a catarrh, of little im-
portance arid of short duration.
Water, for drinking, is drawn from wells
sunk on the skirts of the town, on the land
side ; it is brackish, but very wholesome,
especially to those suffering from intestinal
disorders.
46 SONORA.
Guaymas derives its provisions, especially
flour and meats, from the interior of the
State ; San .Antonio and Santa Rosa furnish
maize, beans, etc., whilst from the Yaqui are
produced fowls, sheep, and grain.
The political and judicial administration
of Guaymas are entrusted to two Justices
of the Peace, a Judge of First Instance, and
a Prefect.
The custom house lacks proper offices
and storehouses, which deficiency is supplied
by hiring private buildings, the cost of which,
during the many years that this has been the
custom, would have more than sufficed to
erect suitable and substantial buildings.
The commerce of Guaymas is very inac-
tive, the importations not exceeding five to
seven cargoes in the busiest years. The only
article of export in Sonora is flour, and the
average annual quantity shipped does not
exceed seven or eight thousand " cargas " of
twelve arrobas each — equivalent to 11,000
or 12,000 barrels.
LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF
.1FOHNM,
CHAPTER VI.
RIVER YAQUI AND ITS SETTLEMENTS.
THIS river, also called Buenavista, rises in
the Sierra Madre Maicova, and runs from
east to west, through Babispe, Todos Santos,
the pueblos of Soyopa, Honavas, Tenichi,
San Antonio, and Comuripa, to the city of
Buenavista, where it enters the Yaqui set-
tlements, and finally empties into the Gulf of
California, in front of the pueblo of Bahum.
In the time of high water, it is navigable
for small vessels ; but this has not yet been
put in practice. After the rains have ceased
it is fordable, though still deep until the
droughts in April, May, and June. In So-
yopa, Buenavista, and Honavas, there is
48 SONORA.
plenty of land susceptible of cultivation;
but except in the pueblo of Nuris, no steps
have been taken to irrigate the soil, and the
harvests are uncertain.
During the heavy rains of January, 1853,
the river changed its bed, dividing at Sanic,
between Eahum and Potun, and leaving its
old channel dry ; the lower settlements, as
far as Belen, were in imminent danger of be-
ing overwhelmed ; several persons lost their
lives, and many cattle were swallowed up.
The Governor, who was at Huirivis, with
three hundred men, was forced, with his
command, to seek protection from the ruins
of the old mission house, the only point that
remained above water. Here they were
compelled to remain two months, losing all
their horses, and suffering acutely from
hunger; at the expiration of which time
they were relieved by the Indians, who, in
one day, constructed a causeway of poles
and branches, from Huirivis to Rahum, a
distance of three leagues. The river, in
RIVER YAQUI AND ITS SETTLEMENTS. 49
this change of its channel, abandoned the
towns of Rahum, Huirivi, and Belen.
The agriculture of all the settlements on
the river is confined to the cultivation of
beans, maize, lentiles, and a small quantity of
wheat. The people dispose of their crops
at Guaymas, Baroyeca, and Alamos, and sub-
sist principally upon shell-fish, "zayas," a
sweet and succulent root, the " quelite," mes-
cal, wild strawberries, and other fruits. They
also eat the iguana, snakes, and squirrels,
and many of them are fond of horse-flesh.
These settlements possess excellent salt-
pits, which supply all the interior towns,
and are considered as the property of the
Yaquis. In 1843, General Urea monopo-
lized the salt-pits at the mouth of the river,
paying to the Indians four reals per " carga/1
and delivering it in launches at Guaymas,
at four dollars per " carga ; " but as it was
impossible to prevent the importation of salt
from the island of Carmen, this monopoly
was withdrawn.
E
50 SONORA.
The distance from Cocori to Cochori
(places which are about seven leagues east
of the coast) is thirty leagues. All of the
intermediate land is susceptible of a high
degree of cultivation, as the soil is moist.
The irrigation produced by one overflow of
the river during the year suffices for the
production of wheat, maize, beans, lentiles,
and various kinds of fruit. The sugar cane
flourishes ; also cotton, flax, and coffee ; but
these articles have only been raised by a
few persons, by way of experiment. The
sheep of these settlements attain the size of
a yearling calf, and are so fat that eight dol-
lars' worth of candles has been made from
the tallow of one animal; their flesh is
most savory and tender.
Beef cattle are also raised in perfection,
and their flesh is excellent ; but both flocks
and herds, formerly so numerous in these
parts, have been reduced to an insignificant
number. At the end of the last century,
when the Yaquis held an established posi-
RIVER YAQUI AND ITS SETTLEMENTS. 51
tion, the mission of Huirivis owned more
than 40,000 head of cattle, and many Indi-
ans were reputed to be rich, on account of
the number of their stock ; many of them
were said to possess concealed treasures,
some of which amounted to three or four
large jars of coin.
Their trade with the lower settlements
was carried on through Guaymas, and with
the upper, through Buenavista, Baroyeca,
and Alamos ; here they brought their grain
and other articles of merchandise.
This race of Indians possesses remarka-
ble natural abilities, and with very little appli-
cation they soon become proficient in all the
mechanical arts. We find among them ma-
sons, blacksmiths, carpenters, coppersmiths,
makers of fireworks, and skillful players on
the harp and violin — all of which they seem
to acquire intuitively.
Their character is resolute, and they are
daunted by no obstacles in the execution of
their plans ; and they keep a secret intrusted
52 SONORA.
to them most religiously, preferring death to
the betrayal of their trust.
The Yaqui, with few exceptions, desires
nothing more than a sufficiency of food, and
a cotton shirt and drawers for himself, and
a shawl and petticoat for his wife ; while his
children are allowed to go naked, with the
exception of a cloth about the loins. His
nature is gay and joyous, and he is fond of
his native dances, in which he excels. His
manners and customs being entirely differ-
ent from those of the whites, he is naturally
suspicious; and so positive, that when he
supposes he has been deceived, it is almost
impossible to persuade him to the contrary.
Some of these Indians, who have been liv-
ing from childhood among the whites, read-
ily conform to their habits and mode of life.
They are generally copper-colored, and well
made ; the women are of medium height,
and corpulent. In some of the settlements
the women are exceedingly fair and hand-
some ; these are children of the " Coyotas,"
RIVER YAQUI AND ITS SETTLEMENTS. 53
who are the result of the intercourse between
the Yaqui priests and the Indian women.
Their language is distinct, easy of com-
prehension, and capable of being reduced to
grammatical rules. We have seen two works
on the Yaqui idiom — one a vocabulary and
the other a grammar — which were compiled
by the missionaries, under the Spanish rule.
In the year 1740, there was a general re-
volt of the Yaquis; induced, it is said, by an
escaped convict, who persuaded them that
the Government intended to deprive them
of their lands. Eight or ten thousand Indi-
ans took arms, but were met by the Gov-
ernor, Don Agustin Vindasola, who gave
them battle, with five hundred men, and
utterly routed them, killing more than 2,000
of their number.
A few days afterwards, they reassembled
at the hill of Otancahui, and the battle was
renewed ; but although they were more
numerous and better prepared than on the
previous occasion, they were again defeated,
54 SONORA.
with the loss of 3,000 men. This terrible
reverse induced them to sue for peace, which
was granted ; and Yindasola, after shooting
the leaders of the insurrection and restoring
tranquility, retired with his troops.
The result of this chastisement was pro-
found peace for eighty-five years, until 1825,
when the Yaquis again rose, committing
frightful murders in the towns and ranches,
burning houses and completely desolating
the country. Since that period, the Yaquis
may be said to have lived in a constant
state of rebellion, and independent of any
government.
In 1826 another outbreak took place,
headed by a cunning Indian, called Juan
Vanderas, who persuaded his fellows that he
was inspired by Our Lady of Guadalupe.
In 1832 another occurred, headed by the
same Yanderas, who, according to common
report, had an understanding with some of
the whites. The Yaquis, to the number of
one thousand, set out for the settlements of
KIVER YAQUI AND ITS SETTLEMENTS. 55
the Pimas and Opatas, in order to prevail
upon them to take part in the revolt. At this
time, a company of mounted men — one hun-
dred in number — under the command of
Don Leonardo Escalante, a retired officer,
left Hermosillo, and their ranks being
swelled to three or four hundred by volun-
teers from other places, they pursued and
came up with the rebels at Soyopa, Vande-
ras being on the other side of the river at
San Antonio de la Huerta. A battle ensued,
which lasted three* hours, when the Indians
were routed, leaving the field covered with
their dead ; among others, Don N. Cacillas,
one of their leaders, a man of good family,
from Tepic. Yanderas and an Opata, his
second in command, were taken prisoners,
conducted to the capital, Arispe, and there
shot, after having confessed that their object
was to exterminate the inhabitants of the
entire Department.
It is impossible to give the exact popula-
tion of the Yaqui towns, as many are par-
56 SONOKA.
tially deserted, the Indians being scattered
among the thickets of reeds that line both
banks of the river. All efforts of the gov-
ernment to take a correct census of these
tribes have been unavailing. In Hermosillo
there are over one thousand Yaquis engaged
in tilling the soil and in other occupations ;
about the same number in Horcasitas, Ures,
etc., and many others are engaged in gold
mining, for which they have a strong predi-
lection. Persons who have resided in their
settlements, and officers who have been en-
gaged in the different campaigns against
them, state positively that there are not, at
present, three thousand warriors in the river
settlements.
The customs of the Yaquis are diametri-
cally opposed to our own- from childhood
they are addicted to theft, licentiousness,
gambling and drunkenness. They shun the
society of the whites, although they live
near them for the sake of employment, and
they have never been observed to manifest
RIVER YAQUI AND ITS SETTLEMENTS. 57
the slightest feeling of generosity or grati-
tude.
They allow no white persons to live among
them, except such as pander to their vices
and passions, and even these are regarded
with distrust and slain upon the slightest
suspicion.
Although some of them understand Span-
ish, they always use their native tongue in
addressing the whites, knowing perfectly
well that they are not understood, which
seems to afford them much amusement. In
their conjugal relations, they are not at all
jealous; they frequently exchange wives,
and an elopement, on the part of the latter,
is regarded with the most philosophical in-
difference.
Notwithstanding these degrading traits, it
is but just to say, that by them is performed
nearly all the labor in Sonora — in working
the mines, tilling the soil, building houses,
etc., and in whatever they undertake, they
display rare skill and intelligence.
58 SONORA.
They are skillful players upon the flute,
violin, harp and guitar ; they are also firm
and persevering in their enterprises, and
daring in war.
When the Spanish government first took
notice of this tribe, it granted them the priv-
ilege of raising tobacco for their own con-
sumption, and it is still cultivated by them,
although it is not equal in quality to that
used by the whites. The plant is yellowish,
and has nearly the strength of our tobacco,
without any disagreeable taste; the differ-
ence being, that while our tobacco plant has
broad leaves, the "macuchi" — as it is called
by the Yaquis — has a narrow leaf, and when
gathered, is formed into large balls and cov-
ered with the husks of maize. Notwith-
standing this privilege, their salt pits and
their spacious lands, which seem to invite
the hand of man to develope their resources,
it may be safely said that the Yaquis are
the most wretched beings in Sonora. They
also possess about thirty leagues of sea
RIVER YAQUI AND ITS SETTLEMENTS. 59
coast, abounding in all kinds of shell-fish, in
which they might drive a profitable trade ;
but addicted as they are to vice, indolence
and revolt, for the purpose of robbery and
murder, they are of no benefit to themselves
or to the State.
They alone, of all the Indians, are skillful v
pearl-divers ; but so great is their love of rob-
bery, that they abandon any occupation,
however profitable, for the purpose of steal-
ing cattle and horses from the ranches in
the neighborhood of the river; this they
practise even in time of peace.
In the last century, good missionaries es-
tablished themselves among these Indians,
and so long as they were protected by the
garrison of Buena vista, and were regularly
visited by the commander of that post, they
enjoyed perfect safety and tranquility ; but
this protection having been gradually with-
drawn, the Indians rose in 1825, under Juan
Vanderas, and committed the most frightful
atrocities. After having dispersed a small
60 SONORA.
body of troops, with the loss of seven men,
they murdered Padre Arguelles, curate of
Torin, Juan Encinas and several others; they
butchered women and children without mer-
cy, and put many of their captives to death
under circumstances of the most revolting
cruelty.
In the month of June, 1842, upon the eve
of the revolution of " Las Gandaras," they
murdered the Alcalde of Cocori, who was of
their own tribe, and whose only fault was
that he performed his duties with fidelity, and
refused to connive at their robberies. The
same fate overtook their general, Juan Ma-
ria Jusacamea, who, from being a rebellious
and dangerous Indian, was converted into
an enthusiastic and faithful supporter of the
government. He also undertook to repress
the thieving propensities of his fellow Ya-
quis, and was assassinated by them in the
year 1840.
CHAPTER VII.
RIVER MAYO AND ITS SETTLEMENTS.
THIS river, like the Yaqui, rises in the
Sierra Madre, and waters all the settlements
of the Mayos. This tribe is of the same
stock as the Yaquis, and is only distin-
guished from them by its name, which
it takes from the river. Their language,
with the exception of a few words, their
customs, propensities and vices are all the
same. In all the outbreaks of the Yaquis,
the Mayos have taken an active and promi-
nent part in murders, robberies and burning
of ranchos in the department of Alamos \
and owing to their depredations, the hacien-
das of this department do not now possess
one-third as many cattle as in former times.
F
62 SONORA.
Among the Mayos are found more Indians
of fair complexion than among the Yaquis,
owing to the more frequent intercourse of
the former with the whites at the mines of
Alamos, and to their allowing white persons
to dwell in their towns. Especially in the
settlements of Nabajoa and Santa Cruz there
are many whites, and some in Conicari, who
occupy themselves in cultivating the lands
that are watered by the river. These lands
furnish the same fruits as those of the Ya-
qui, and their products are consumed in the
city of Alamos, Varoyeca, and the other
white settlements.
The only articles manufactured among the
Mayos are " zarapes," of so firm and fine a
texture that they are not excelled by the
best from Saltillo. In agriculture they are
as backward as the Yaquis. There are,
however, among them many persons who
are well inclined, who have never taken part
in any revolt, and who profess friendship for
the whites.
RIVER MAYO AND ITS SETTLEMENTS. 63
Their towns are more numerous than those
of the Yaquis, but their population is less.
The most celebrated of all the revolution-
ary leaders of the Mayos, was Miguel Este-
van, noted for his cunning and audacity.
He was at one time the chief of a political
party among the whites, during a civil war,
and under this pretext committed numerous
depredations in the white settlements. Af-
ter peace was restored, he pursued the same
career for a long time, causing serious dam-
age to the honest citizens of Alamos, Yaro-
yeca, etc. He was at last defeated by the
miners of Varoyeca, under Palamores, and
having thus lost his prestige, he sank into
obscurity. Finally, he was apprehended and
taken to Ures, where instead of suffering the
penalty of his crimes, he was allowed to es-
cape by the officer who had him in charge.
Of his subsequent career, nothing is known;
it is not unlikely that he joined the Apaches.
The Mayo pueblos, reckoning from the
Sierra on the east to Conicari on the west,
64
SONORA.
and thence south to the mouth of the river,
are as follows:
Macollagui, in the Sierra, Conicari, Camoa,
Tecia, Nabajoa, Cuirimpo, Guitajoa, Echojoa,
Santa Cruz and Masiaca.
The following is a list of the settlements
on the Yaqui river :
From Buenavieta —
To Cocori 8 leagues.
To Bocum 3
To Torin 4
To Bicam 3
To Potam 4
To Rahum 1*
To Huirivis 2^
ToBelen... ...2
28
CHAPTER VIII.
PRESIDIO OF ALTAR, NOW THE TOWN OF GTJADALUPE.
THIS presidio is the most populous of all;
in 1822 it contained 2,645 inhabitants, and
since then its population has doubled, owing
to the discovery of its mineral wealth.
Grain is raised in small quantities, and a va-
riety of fruits, such as pomegranates, figs,
grapes, etc.
It is watered by a river that springs from
Agua Caliente, but its waters, in the dry
season, are insufficient for the purposes of
irrigation. It is the capital of its depart-
ment, which comprises the following pue-
blos, viz : Altar, the capital, formerly called
Santa Gertrudis del Altar; the Pina settle-
ment Oquitoa, which in 1828 contained six
F*
66 SONORA.
hundred souls ; Tabutama, another Pima set-
tlement, which contained about five hundred
inhabitants; Cavorca, a settlement of the
same tribe, which place, on account of the
scarcity of water, is uninhabited except tem-
porarily by a few families — population in
1828, six hundred; the old mining region of
Cieneguilla, sixteen leagues to the south,
containing a few families, a curate and some
Yaqui Indians, in all about five hundred
persons ; the mining region of Zoni, twenty
to twenty-five leagues to the north ; that of
Cuitavac, forty leagues to the north-west,
on the road to Upper California ; its popu-
lation is so much scattered that it cannot be
calculated with certainty — probably about
one thousand.
The discovery of mines of gold and silver
in the neighborhood of Altar gave a great
impetus to its progress, and its population
may now be estimated at four or five thous-
and. It contains several retail shops for the
sale of foreign and domestic goods, the pro-
PRESIDIO OF ALTAR. 67
prietors of which depend on the market of
Hermosillo, where they purchase partly for
cash and partly on credit.
The principal business of the place is
raising cattle and horses. There are but
few of the inhabitants who are not owners
of stock, although they are exposed to the
incursions of the Apaches, who persecute
them with the greatest tenacity ; the neigh-
boring ranchos are exceedingly fertile and
abundantly watered, but have frequently
been abandoned to the merciless barbadians.
The town is situated in a plain ; its streets
are irregular, the houses of adobe and with-
out architectural beauty. It contains a small
church poorly supplied with the sacred uten-
sils, and without chaplain or curate.
A few Papago Indians, at times, reside on
the skirts of the town, and are employed by
the inhabitants in the manufacture of earth-
enware and baskets.
The town is garrisoned by about a dozen
soldiers, has two justices of the peace, a pre-
68 SONORA.
feet, and judge of first instance. The ex-
tremes of heat and cold prevail, notwith-
standing which the climate is healthy, as
proved by the longevity of the inhabitants.
A certain Contreras reached the age of one
hundred and fourteen years; many might
be mentioned who lived more than one hun-
dred years, and the ordinary duration of life
is from sixty to eighty years.
PRESIDIO OF SANTA CRUZ.
This is one of the most northern presidios
of Sonora in the Pimeria Alta ; it is situated
in a beautiful valley, clothed in verdure
during the entire year, in latitude 32° 15'
N. It is watered by a river which takes its
rise from a spring to the north of the valley.
Its lands are suitable for stock raising and
for all kinds of grain, especially wheat, which
is produced of excellent quality; it also pro-
duces the best red pepper in the State, and
its hides are large and much esteemed. To
this presidio belong the town of Cocospera,
PRESIDIO OF SANTA CRUZ. 69
the rancho of San Lazaro and four others,
entirely ruined and depopulated by the
Apaches; it has always been particularly
exposed to the attacks of these Indians, on
account of its proximity to their territory,
and its being on their direct road to the
interior.
Its distance from Villa de Guadalupe is
forty leagues, passing the following places,
viz: Ocuca, Santa Ana, Santa Marta, San
Lorenzo, Santa Magdalena, San Ignacio, Ten-
enate, Imuris and San Lazaro. Its climate
is not salubrious, and the winters are ex-
tremely severe ; and when the other pueblos
of the Department are suffering from intense
heat, heavy clothing is necessary at Santa
Cruz. Its population does not exceed five
hundred, including soldiers, and its houses
and walls are nearly demolished; the only
chronic diseases are fevers, owing to the
numerous swamps that environ the town.
CHAPTER IX.
PRESIDIO DE BACUACHI,
THIS presidio is distant from Santa Cruz
twenty-seven leagues, by the road through
Arispe, and from the city of Mexico, by way
of Chihua, six hundred and twelve leagues.
Its garrison is composed of Opatas, whose
number has greatly diminished, owing to
poverty and the scarcity of the necessaries
of life ; it is an infantry corps, and formerly
distinguished itself in the wars with the
Apaches and the revolts of the Yaquis.
The population of the presidio ten years
ago was about 2,000, besides the garrison ;
but it is now reduced to less than one-fourth
of this number by emigration to the interior
of persons fleeing from the ravages of the
Indians.
PRESIDIO DE BACUACHI. 71
It was at one time exceedingly rich in
cattle, sheep and horses, but all were swept
away by the Apaches ; this, and the daily
assassinations committed in sight of the pre-
sidio, induced a general emigration of the
terrified inhabitants. Its climate is cool and
healthy, epidemics are unknown, and many
of the inhabitants reach the age of seventy,
eighty and ninety years.
It produces good wheat, but very little of
the other cereals is sown, as the early frosts
generally destroy the crops before harvest;
there are also various wild fruits used for
food, and among them the acorn of the ever-
green oak, which has a most agreeable flavor.
There are gold mines in the neighbor-
hood, from which, before the invasions of
the Apaches, great quantities of the precious
metal were extracted of more than twenty-
two carats fine ; and we have known a small
trader, who visited the mines with his wares,
to accumulate more than forty marks in a
few days.
72 SONORA.
The church, houses and barracks are in a
most ruinous condition; the local govern-
ment is vested in two justices of the peace,
subject to the Sub-Prefect of Arispe.
PRESIDIO OF FRONTERAS.
This presidio is situated in latitude 31° N;
before the rising of the Apaches it contained
2,000 inhabitants, but its present population
does not exceed five hundred.
The lands in the neighborhood of the pre-
sidio produce excellent wheat, maize, pep-
pers and beans; also the most delicious
peaches in Sonora, apples and the bergamot
pear.
The town of Fronteras contains but one
street, at the foot of which runs a creek,
whose waters irrigate the neighboring lands.
Its distance from Bacuachi is forty leagues ;
the greater part of the road lies between
dense thickets, and travelers are constantly
liable to be surprised and murdered by the
Apaches, for which reason they always go
PRESIDIO OF TUBAC. 73
armed and travel by night, concealing them-
selves during the day in thickets or ravines.
Since the year 1832, two hundred persons
have been killed by the Apaches in the pre-
sidio of Fronteras alone.
The climate is cold but healthy; good
timber is abundant ; also wild animals and
birds suitable for the table. The plains are
fertile and well watered ; the local Govern-
ment is administered by two justices of the
peace.
PRESIDIO OF TUBAC.
This presidio, distant eighteen leagues
from Santa Cruz, is garrisoned by thirty
men ; it contains the pueblo of San Jose de
Tumacacori, the old mission of that name,
formerly rich in cattle and horses.
It is situated in a spacious valley, at the
foot of a range of low hills, the soil of which
is fertile and susceptible of a high degree of
cultivation, producing all kinds of fruits;
the pastures are excellent, and water for
74 SONORA.
stock abundant and of the best quality.
The climate is salubrious; present popula-
tion about four hundred.
There is a rancho in this district called
" las Calabazas," which, as well as a rich gold
mine in its neighborhood, has been aban-
doned for fear of the Apaches ; the presidio
is watered by the same river that flows
through Santa Cruz.
PRESIDIO OF TUCSON.
This is one of the most northern presidios
of the frontier, and contains no white inhab-
itants; it is garrisoned by a company of
cavalry numbering sixty men, and its popu-
lation, including the garrison, is less than
1,000. Tucson has several times been be-
seiged by the Indians in bodies from 1,000
to 2,000 warriors ; but, although these have
succeeded in reaching the walls of the town,
they have always been repulsed by the
bravery of the troops. The climate is warm,
PRESIDIO OF TUCSON. 75
notwithstanding its situation so far north,
and the only prevailing diseases are fevers
at the changes of the seasons.
It is watered by the river that passes
Santa Cruz, on each side of which is a spa-
cious valley, thirty leagues in length, sus-
ceptible of cultivation ; it could be irrigated
with the greatest facility by canals from the
river, and from an abundant spring which
lies between the village and the presidio.
The small quantity of land that is tilled
produces wheat, corn, beans, lentiles and
pulse in great abundance and of excellent
quality, and the orchards yield a large sup-
ply of quinces, peaches, pears, apples and
grapes.
The distance from Tucson to the river
Gila is forty leagues, over a smooth road,
no hills being encountered until near the
banks of the river.
The Indians of the Gila are known as
"Pimas Gilenos." There is another tribe
on the other side of the river, on the road
76 SONORA.
to Monterey, called the " Cocomaricopas del
Tesotal ;" these two tribes are very numer-
ous, and their respective languages are dif-
ferent. They live in straw huts, and are
united in a number of settlements on both
sides of the river. They raise corn, beans,
melons and gourds of exquisite flavor and of
so enormous a size that two of them have
been known to weigh six arrobas — 150
pounds.
They also raise cotton, from which they
manufacture cloth remarkable for its fine
texture and enduring quality ; and they are
fond of hunting the game that abounds in
their country.
There has existed on the Gila, from time
immemorial, a white house, the origin of
which is unknown, much dilapidated by the
wear of time ; also, the remains of a large
aqueduct and fragments of fine porcelain,
all of which seems to prove the existence of
a civilized race in these regions at some
remote period of antiquity.
PRESIDO OF TUCSON. 77
The Gilas wage war constantly with the
Apaches, and since the Spaniards have also
been the bitter foes of the latter tribe, the
Gilas have been warm friends of the whites,
and treat them with the greatest hospitality
when they visit their rancherias. When
they take prisoners in war, they release
them upon the payment of an adequate
ransom in money and clothing.
They frequently visit Guaymas in parties
of twenty to forty, commanded by chiefs
who speak Spanish fluently, and offer their
services to the Government. Their arms
are bows and arrows, and some have guns.
They are of medium height, stout, cop-
per-colored and with a profusion of hair,
which they take great pains to preserve.
They wear a strip of goat skin about the
loins, and some have shoes of the same; the
greater part of them have no covering for
the head. The chiefs alone wear breeches
and straw hats ornamented with feathers;
the Government lately presented uniforms
78
SONORA.
to the chiefs, and a quantity of cloth to the
common people, at which they expressed
great satisfaction.
LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF
t :. \LIFORNI A.
•x
OHAPTEE 1L.
PRESIDIO OF BABISPE.
THIS presidio is situated in the north-east-
ern portion of the Department, on the road
to Vizeaya. It was formerly garrisoned by
seventy-two Opatas, who are now reduced to
thirty. It contains the towns of Guachinera
and Baserae, and the haciendas Santa Ana
and Loreto ; it formerly comprised a num-
ber of wealthy ranches, but all have been
despoiled by the Apaches.
Babispe possesses excellent grazing lands,
well supplied with water, and traversed by
the river " Yaqui," commonly called, in this
Department, the Bio Grande.
The population does not exceed six hun-
dred, including the garrison and their fami-
80 SONORA.
lies ; they manufacture excellent soap, and
leather of good quality. Two leagues east
of Guachinera is a rich silver mine, deserted
on account of the Apaches.
The Opatas comprising the garrison de-
serve a place in the history of Sonora, for
their daring intrepidity in war. They par-
ticularly distinguished themselves in the
campaigns against the Apaches, and in the
civil wars were staunch defenders of the
Government.
The only revolt in which they were ever
engaged took place in 1820, for some cause
unknown ; when, being joined by others of
their tribe, making their force three hun-
dred men, they marched to Tonichi, where
they defeated Colonel Lomban, at the head
of 1,000 troops, having previously routed
the command of Captain Lurion, and taken
him prisoner. After these successes they
proceeded to Arivechi, where they complete-
ly annihilated a company of sixty men, from
Chihuahua, under the command of Captain
PRESIDIO OF SAN CARLOS DE BUENA VISTA. 81
Moreno. After leaving Arivechi, they were
surprised by two divisions of troops — one
from Chihuahua, commanded by Falco, and
the other led by Colonel Antonio Narvona,
the two composing a force of over 2,000
men. The Opatas met them with coolness
and resolution, and maintained the unequal
contest in the open plain for more than four
hours, when they retreated into the church of
Arivechi, where they defended themselves
until their last cartridge was expended.
This battle, unparalleled in the annals of
Sonora, lasted two days and one night.
Babispe is six leagues from the boundary
line of Chihuahua ; forty leagues from Aris-
pe ; thirty from Tucson, and forty-eight from
Tubac.
PRESIDIO OF SAN CARLOS DE BTJENAVISTA.
This presidio is in the south of the De-
partment, on the main road to the city of
Alamos ; it is distant from Arispe one hun-
dred leagues, by the way of Hermosillo, and
82 SONORA.
eighty-five leagues by the road of Matape.
It is situated upon a small hill of naked rock,
for which reason the summer heats are intol-
erable ; and were it not for the Kio Grande,
which laves the eastern base of the hill,
affording frequent and refreshing baths to
the inhabitants, the place would be unin-
habitable during the hot months.
Notwithstanding its importance as a mili-
tary position, forming a barrier against the
encroachments of the Yaquis and Mayos, it,
like the other presidios, has been neglected
and suffered to decay.
Its garrison, since 1817, when the presidio
began to decline, has been decreasing, and
now comprises but one-fourth of its proper
force ; the soldiers, too, are poorly equipped
and seldom paid.
Buenavista deserves to be a place of im-
portance, both on account of its command-
ing position with respect to the Yaquis and
Mayos, and because it is capable of great
progress in all matters that are conducive
PRESIDIO OF SAN CARLOS DE BUENA VISTA. 83
to the prosperity of its inhabitants. It pos-
sesses fertile lands, that might easily be
irrigated, on both sides of the river; and
as the river is navigable during the greater
part of the year, timber, grain, and other
productions of the country could be easily
transported to Guaymas.
In the neighborhood of the presidio, there
is no lack of mines of gold and silver. The
pueblos of Cumuripa, the place called Cen-
draditas, and San Francisco de Borja, now
deserted on account of the civil wars, con-
tain mines of both metals, which, when
worked, yielded abundantly.
It also possesses excellent grazing lands;
most of the stock, however, has been stolen
by the Yaquis, who have carried off as many
as five hundred cattle on one single occa-
sion. At one time, Don Jose Otero, a citi-
zen of Buenavista, was compelled to fly to
Alamos, leaving his three ranches to the
mercy of the Indians, who plundered them
of stock to the value of $30,000.
84
The river which passes through the Ya-
qui settlements is the largest in the De-
partment; it is only fordable during the
dryest season, and is at all times navigable
by large canoes. Its current is rapid at
Buenavista and many other points ; and it
contains an abundance of fine fish.
The climate of Buenavista, in spite of the
excessive heat, is healthy — the cold moder-
ate, and its water very superior.
In the time of its greatest prosperity,
when its garrison was complete, and it was
not harassed by revolutions and civil wars,
its population amounted to 3,000, including
the garrison and the rancheros. Its bar-
racks are now nearly in ruins, and the old
chapel, although rebuilt seven years since,
is small and scantily supplied with the sa-
cred articles. Most of the time the inhabi-
tants are without a curate or chaplain, unless
supplied from the town of Cocori.
A most profitable business for this place
would be the transportation of ores to Guay-
PRESIDIO OF SAN CARLOS DE BUENAVISTA. 85
mas, where they could be shipped in foreign
vessels as ballast. Along the river, above
Buenavista, are hundreds of veins of ore of
gold and silver — not containing a large pro-
portion of the precious metals, but very
abundant; and immense quantities can be
extracted at a comparatively trifling ex-
pense. In many places, indeed, in the neigh-
borhood of the river, large quantities of ore
are scattered about on the surface. Don
Ignacio Zuniga entertained the idea of this
project, and obtained a special privilege in
relation thereto; but as he died before com-
mencing the enterprise, it was never carried
into effect.
In closing this sad record of the presidios,
we may remark, that the sufferings of the
inhabitants, and the fortitude with which
they endured them, are almost unexampled
in history.
Hundreds of families, reduced to beggary,,
have been driven from their homes, after
witnessing the slaughter of parents, wives,
H
86 SONORA.
and children, by the ferocious barbarians ;
and not a month has passed, during the last
four years, without the plains of the north
being bathed in Sonorian blood. In such a
state of things, it is the imperative duty of
the Supreme Government either to reestab-
lish the presidios on their former basis, or if
this cannot be done, to offer such induce-
ments as would secure the immigration of
industrious foreigners, who would colonize
those regions that are now deserted, and
would, in time, form an impassable barrier
against the cruel and desolating incursions
of the Apaches.
CHAPTER XL
CERIS AND THE ISLAND OF TIBURON.
THE Ceris, prior to the invasion of the
" Cimarrones " — Pirnas and Apaches — in
1779, were located at a pueblo called El
Populo, one league east of Horcasitas. In
1789, the few families that survived the war
were removed to the pueblo of Ceris, called
San Pedro de la Conquista. In 1780, the
first regular troops — called " migueletes " —
arrived in Sonora, under the command of
Col. Elisondo. These put down the Cimar-
rones by force of arms ; and as the greater
part of the Ceris took part in the insurrec-
tion, they were nearly exterminated in the
bloody battles that ensued. Notwithstand-
ing this, the remnant of the Ceris retained
88 SONORA.
their rebellions propensities ; and the insig-
nificance of their numbers not permitting
an open revolt, they amused themselves by
plundering the ranches on the coast of Ti-
buron, and by murdering muleteers and
travelers on the highways. They seem to
have taken advantage of every occasion
when the troops were engaged in quelling
the outbreaks of the Yaquis and Opatas, not
reflecting that upon the reestablishment of
peace they were certain of being chastised
in their turn.
At length complaints against them be-
came so numerous that an expedition, com-
prising a schooner and two launches, having
on board two hundred and twenty infantry
and thirty cavalry, was sent to the island of
Tiburon, under command of Col. Andrade.
After thoroughly scouring the island, Ari-
drade returned, leaving a garrison of twen-
ty-five men, and bringing two hundred pris-
oners, men. women and children, of which
number but thirty were warriors. These un-
CERIS AND THE
fortunate captives were distributed among
the inhabitants of the city as servants.
Most of these, unable to endure the confine-
ment and irksome labor, made their escape
to their old haunts within two months. Not
a single Ceri was left upon the island. Six-
teen families, comprising thirty-four war-
riors, were absent from it when the troops
landed ; and these are supposed to be the
ones who afterwards committed depreda-
tions in the neighborhood of Guaymas and
the ranches on the coast.
The officers and soldiers of the expedi-
tion described the island as being rocky and
barren, with but three or four watering
places ; it being uncertain whether the wa-
ter was permanent or not during the dry
season. Neither fruits, timber nor wild an-
imals were found, the Ceris living upon fish,
sacates and certain shrubs upon the coast,
as well as the flesh of horses and goats.
The exhalations from their bodies emit a
most intolerable stench, similar to that of a
90 SONORA.
putrid carcass, and it is impossible to remain
long in their company.
The road from Hermosillo to the embar-
cadero is level and unobstructed. In the
dry season it is necessary for the traveler to
carry water with him.
Of all the Indian tribes in Sonora, the
Ceris are the most rude and uncultivated.
Their morals are corrupt to the last degree.
They are excessively addicted to drunken-
ness, filthy in their habits, and bitterly hos-
tile to the whites. Under the Spanish do-
minion they were settled at the pueblo of
San Pedro de la Conquistaj and lands as-
.signed to them for their support ; but such
was their indolence that they would perform
no labor, except to procure the means of
gratifying their fondness for ardent spirits.
Their language is guttural and difficult to
acquire; and although the inhabitants of
Hermosillo have frequent intercourse with
the Indians, very few, if any, can converse
with them in their own tongue. Their dress
CERIS AND THE ISLAND OF TIBURON. 91
is either of the skins of the pelican or a
coarse blanket wrapped around the waist;
some wear nothing but a strip of cloth
about the loins, and none of them wear
shoes. They paint their faces in black
stripes, and many pierce the cartilage of the
nose and append to it pieces of a green
stone resembling glass.
The women perform the greater part of
the labor, gathering in the crops, fishing,
and selling earthenware and other articles.
They are as completely given up to intem-
perance as their lords and masters. The
men are tall, erect and stout generally, hav-
ing large, black and brilliant eyes ; the wo-
men are copper colored and not ill looking.
The dress of these is the pelican's skin with
the feathers, which covers the form from the
waist down ; the upper part of the body is
uncovered. When the Ceri women visit
Hermosillo, the ladies of that city, out of
charity and a regard to decency, bestow
upon them old gowns and other articles of
92 SONOKA.
dress. These are worn until they drop to
pieces, the Ceris having no idea of washing
their garments.
The Ceris were never a numerous tribe.
At one time they amounted to about 2,000
persons ; but their present number, includ-
ing two hundred and fifty-nine on the island
of Tiburon, does not exceed five hundred,
about eighty of whom may be warriors.
Two of the tribe have been celebrated for
their obstinate resistance to the government.
One was called Ambrosio Salgado and the
other Alonzo ; both chiefs, who, after the par-
tial destruction and subjection of their tribe,
wandered about the country committing
numerous robberies and murders ; their ex-
treme cunning saving them from being ap-
prehended, until Ambrosio was finally treach-
erously assassinated by a boy, and Alonzo
surprised by a party of soldiers.
These Indians have but one wife each,
but latitude is allowed in their conjugal re-
lations. They have no religion beyond the
PUEBLO OF CERIS. 93
worship of the moon, which they adore as a
divinity. Upon the appearance of the new
moon they prostrate themselves upon the
earth, kissing the ground, beating their
breasts and making innumerable genuflec-
tions.
PUEBLO OF CERIS, OR SAN PEDRO DE LA CONQTJISTA.
The following statistics relative to this
pueblo are taken from the report of its mu-
nicipal secretary, Don Manuel Cabrera, in
the year 1844.
This town is situated to the south of Her-
mosillo, on the river Sonora. Its extent,
from one church to the other, is about one
quarter of a league, and its distance from
the Gulf of California twenty-eight to thirty
leagues.
The inhabitants are generally engaged in
agriculture, raising annually about 15,000
fanegas of different kinds of grain. Cat-
tle and horses are abundant, but no mines
94 SONORA.
worthy of mention exist in this vicinity.
The only trees found in the neighborhood
are the iron-wood, which is incorruptible ;
the mesquite, which lasts one hundred years
without decaying; the huayacan, a very
solid and compact wood ; and the huevito,
the grain of which is superior to that of the
finest foreign timber. Among medicinal
herbs, the " confituria " is the most valuable,
as it is said to be a specific for hydrophobia.
The agricultural products are various spe-
cies of wheat and Indian corn, beans of dif-
ferent sizes and colors, pulse, lentiles, Chile
peppers, sweet potatoes, garlic, onions, etc.
Garden vegetables are not abundant; excel-
lent lettuce, cabbages, cauliflowers and rad-
ishes are raised, but their cultivation is neg-
lected. Figs are raised in great profusion ;
the other fruits are grapes, peaches, apricots,
pomegranates, quinces, sweet and sour or-
anges, limes, citrons and guavas. Of the
different beans, the "tamari" is the best;
its color is white, its taste peculiar and not
PUEBLO OF CERIS. 95
agreeable to persons unaccustomed to it, but
it is so easy of digestion that physicians al-
low it as an article of diet in almost all
diseases.
Wheat is generally sown from October to
December — sometimes as late as January ;
it makes its appearance above the ground in
eight or ten days, and is harvested from May
to July. Two crops of beans are raised an-
nually; the first is planted in February or
March, and the second in July and August.
Two crops of maize are also sometimes
produced, the most abundant being the crop
gathered in November and December ; that
gathered in July or August is generally of
inferior quality, and serves as food for serv-
ants. Grain, flour and other products of
this pueblo are transported to Guaymas and
other places, in wagons drawn by mules and
oxen.
There are several grist mills turned by
water power; one of them grinds from twen-
ty-five to thirty " cargas " of flour in twenty-
9b SONORA.
four hours, the others about half that quan-
tity each. The cultivation of sugar cane
has been commenced and is gradually in-
creasing.
This pueblo has but one small chapel,
no benevolent institutions and no primary
school; the mechanical arts are almost un-
known ; there are one or two carpenters and
blacksmiths, who only make a few necessary
articles, such as axes, adzes, bits, spurs, etc.
The climate is agreeable and healthy ; the
population, according to the last census, was
3,000, including fifteen families of Ceris; the
municipal government is vested in two jus-
tices of the peace, subject to the tribunal of
first instance at Hermosillo.
CHAPTER XII.
OPATA SETTLEMENTS.
EVER since the conquest of the country,
the Opata tribe has manifested a frank and
docile disposition and friendly feelings to-
wards the whites, and has given unequivo-
cal proofs of its love of peace and tranquil-
ity.
Three companies of infantry were raised
among these Indians, which for many years
performed prodigies of valor in the cam-
paigns against the Apaches; it frequently
happening that a single Opata successfully
encountered eight or ten Apaches. These
Indians have never revolted except in the
year 1820, when, as has already been stated,
they displayed a heroism worthy of com-
memoration.
98 SONORA.
The Opatas that now exist in Sonora are
engaged in cultivating the soil, though on a
small scale ; they are not drunkards like the
Yaquis, Ceris and Pimas, and but few of
them are given to theft. They are excel-
lent as escorts and guards, and are in great
demand for this purpose ; as they never de-
sert their charge, however imminent the
danger, and their powers of endurance are
such that they have been known to perform
journeys of forty to fifty leagues in twenty-
four hours.
They are also entitled to the credit of
being the most moral and least superstitious
of all the tribes. Their manners and cus-
toms are similar to those of the whites; the
men generally wear shirts, white drawers,
pantaloons and shoes of untanned hide, and
the women gowns and petticoats, and "rebo-
zos" of ordinary quality.
Their speech is forcible and eloquent;
their language contains many Spanish words
and is easily acquired. Their arms were
OPATA SETTLEMENTS. 99
originally the bow and arrow, but since their
establishment at the presidios Bacuachi, Tu-
ba c and Babispe, they have been taught the
use of fire-arrns, and are skillful marksmen;
at present the entire tribe use no weapons
but the gun and lance.
They are not tall, but are of athletic
frames; wary and of unequalled endurance;
the women are generally copper-colored, but
some are quite fair, having a mixture of
Spanish blood.
The Opatas are capable of a high degree
of education, and are just and humane in
their dealings. In the revolt of 1820, they
treated their prisoners of war with the cour-
tesy and consideration usual among enlight-
ened nations, and they put none to death
without first trying them before a council of
war, and afterwards sending for Catholic
priests to administer the last sacrament to
the condemned ; many of their prisoners
were released without ransom.
It is also worthy of mention, that in all
100 SONORA.
the civil wars among the whites, the Opatas
have invariably espoused the cause of the
government, except in one or two instances
when they were deceived, arid believed that
they were defending a just cause.
PAPAGOS.
This tribe is numerous, and is situated in
the western part of the State to the north
of the river Gila ; they are from the same
stock as the Pimas Altos of Cavorca, Oqui-
toa, Tubutarna, etc.
The Papagos have not like the Pimas been
organized in pueblos, but they have gener-
ally been obedient to the government, and
those of the Gila, who are superior to the
western tribes, have assisted the presidios in
their campaigning against the Apaches.
The western Papagos revolted in 1840,
but were reduced in one brief and decisive
campaign; previous to this, they caused
great annoyance to the inhabitants of Altar
by frequent robberies of horses and cattle.
PAPAGOS. 101
They subsist principally upon wild fruits,
especially the " pitaya," a fruit of exquisite
flavor. They move from place to place
where this is abundant, and remain until it
is exhausted ; they make from it a delicious
syrup, which they take to the settlements in
earthen jars for sale.
In the winter they resort to the settle-
ments of La Pimeria, to dispose of the skins
of wild animals and baskets made of the
twigs of a shrub called "Mora." One of
their articles of food is a delicate species
of camote, called "Sayas," which is cul-
tivated and highly appreciated among the
whites.
The Papagos of the river Gila are the
best and most industrious ; they have never
faltered in their allegiance to the Govern-
ment, or taken part in any revolt. Their
habitations are fixed and permanent, and
they raise wheat, corn, beans, pulse, and len-
tiles sufficient for their own consumption.
They also raise cotton, and manufacture a
i*
102 SONORA.
stout cloth, which, when doubled, serves
them for winter garments. They dwell in
small houses of adobe. Theft is rare among
them, and they are faithful and hospitable to
strangers who visit their settlements.
Both the Gilas and the Western Papagos
repudiate polygamy ; and both adore the
sun, setting aside one day of each week as
a festival in honor of their deity. Their
language differs but little from that of the
Pimas. The Gilas cultivate fruit trees, and
possess orchards, peach, pomegranate, quince
trees, etc. Both sexes are of lofty stature,
of an agreeable appearance, and have a
profusion of hair. The rancherias of the
western tribes are supposed to be about
thirty in number ; this, however, cannot be
known with any certainty, on account of
the migratory character of their inhabitants.
Those of the Gilas are more populous, though
fewer in number; and there is no doubt that
the Papagos outnumber the Pimas and Opa-
tas combined. The Cocomaripas are another
PAPAGOS.
103
numerous tribe of Papagos, near the conflu-
ence of the Gila and the Colorado, border-
ing upon the Yumas, and other wandering
tribes.
\ UNIVERSITY OF
CHAPTER XIIL
MIXES IX SOXORA.
YAEIOUS works have been written con-
cerning the mines of Sonora, and most of
them agree as to the extent, immense rich-
ness, and the causes of their decadence.
None of these writers, however, whether from
want of time or reliable data, have treated
the subject with the attention that it merits..
The statements which follow may be relied
upon as accurate, being based upon authen-
tic information from the owners and directors
of mines, and careful personal observation.
We may safely say that the mines of So-
nora are almost unknown in the other States
of the Republic, and even in the metropolis;
it is known, indeed, that such a country as
MINES IN SONORA. 105
Sonora exists, and that it is rich in minerals;
but this knowledge is about as definite as
that generally possessed with regard to Sibe-
ria and Southern Africa — derived from the
vague accounts that we have read of those
countries. This general ignorance, and con-
sequent indifference, together with the lack
of the protection and assistance of the Gov-
ernment, have caused a sad decay of our
mining interests, and they now retain but a
shadow of their former prosperity.
Up to the year 1810, the silver mining
establishments continued in a flourishing
condition. Quicksilver was then supplied
by the respective Territorial deputations to
the registered miners, upon a credit of six
months, upon their personal security, at a
price that never exceeded sixty dollars, and
frequently fell to fifty-seven dollars per
quintal.
" Gambucinos," viz : those miners who,
without capital or assistance, worked either
in abandoned mines or in those too poor to
106 SONORA.
tempt capital, were of great benefit to the
community ; since, being numerous, the ag-
gregate of their labors amounted to a con-
siderable sum. But when the price of quick-
silver rose to one hundred dollars, and finally
to one hundred and seventy dollars per quin-
tal, a general decline of the mining interests
was the result. The gambucinos, among
others, were forced to abandon their labors,
and this materially impeded the discovery
of new mines. Many of them turned their
attention to gold mining, which does not re-
quire so large a consumption of quicksilver,
and made important discoveries of this metal,
as we shall hereafter relate.
The mines in Sonora have been worked
from time immemorial, as proved by the
number of excavations discovered by the
first settlers after the conquest, and of which
we have no more authentic information than
that derived from tradition. On the Cerro
Prieto, between the rancho de la Palura and
la Cara Pintada, is an old mine called Taras-
MINES IN SONORA. 107
ca, that has not been worked for more than
one hundred years, and that was, according
to tradition, exceedingly rich. In the same
Sierra are other old mines, in the neighbor-
hood of which the vestiges of buildings are
still visible ; and we might cite hundreds of
others of the same class.
Among the mines of San Jose de Gra-
cia there is one celebrated for its richness,
which was worked in 1809-10 by a Catalo-
nian Spaniard, named Juan Jose Carurnina.
When abandoned by the original discoverer
it was full of water. Carumina succeeded
in clearing it for two or three hours, and
took out a lump of ore weighing three ar-
robas7(75 pounds) which yielded fourteen
marks (112 ozs.) of pure silver. Unfortu-
nately, at this time he had the misfortune to
break his baling apparatus, and the water
rushed in so rapidly as to refill the mine in
six or seven hours. Carumina, having ex-
pended all of his capital and contracted sev-
eral debts, was compelled to abandon the un-
108 SONORA.
dertaking, and repaired to Chihuahua. A
company afterwards attempted to work the
mine ; but after having expended a consider-
able sum, they abandoned it on account of
a fatal accident to one of the workmen.
Most of these old mines, according to tra-
dition, were exceedingly rich. Some of the
old inhabitants of San Jose de Gracia, in
speaking of the mine of Carumina, testify
that the vein in many places was of virgin
silver, and that in others the ore yielded fifty
per cent, of pure silver; also, that there
was a stratum of red earth that yielded
great quantities of gold — they having fre-
quently witnessed the extraction of two and
three hundred marks on one single occasion.
The depth of this mine exceeds one hun-
dred varas, and those of San Juan de Sonora
are said to be equally deep. It is by no
means surprising that these mines should
have been abandoned by their original pro-
prietors, considering their limited knowledge
of mineralogy, and the insufficiency of their
MINES IN
means to enable them to overconWIerious
obstacles.
In the work entitled "Apostolic Labors of
the Society of Jesus," published by one of
the members of that order, is the following
statement: "In the year 1769 a region of
virgin silver was discovered on the frontier
of the Apaches, at the place called Arizona,
on a mountain ridge about half a league in
extent. The discovery was made by a Ya-
qui Indian, who revealed it to a trader, and
the latter made it public. The news of such
surprising wealth attracted a multitude to
the spot. At a depth of a few varas, masses
of pure silver were found, of a globular
form, and of one or two arrobas in weight.
Several pieces were taken out weighing up-
wards of twenty arrobas ; and one found by
a person from Guadalajara weighed one
hundred and forty arrobas. Many persons
amassed large sums, whilst others found
nothing."
This discovery is mentioned, not only in
110 SONORA.
the work referred to, but in "Los Ocios Es-
pannoles," and in documents existing in the
archives of the missions of Pimeria Alta.
Latterly, in the year 1817, Dionisio Robles,
an inhabitant of the town of Rayon, fitted
out an expedition of two hundred men, and
proceeded to Arizona for the purpose of ex-
ploring this mine. They examined the spot,
making several excavations; but although
indications of virgin silver were plentiful,
they found but a few grains and one small
lump, weighing five marks — seven and one-
fourth ounces. As, however, they remained
in that region but eight days, when they were
compelled to return on account of the Apa-
ches, their want of success is not to be won-
dered at ; and from the previous statements
there can be no doubt of the existence of
enormous deposits of silver in Arizona.
History and tradition agree as to the dis-
covery of this mine and its subsequent
abandonment. They both state that in the
year of the discovery — 1769 — the military
MINES IN SONORA. Ill
commander of the presidio of Altar seized
the larger masses of silver as being the
property of the crown ; that the parties in-
terested protested against this, and not ob-
taining redress, appealed to the audience
chamber of Guadalajara, which referred the
matter to the court of Madrid. At the end
of seven years the king declared that the
silver pertained to his royal patrimony, and
that the mine should be worked for his ben-
efit. This decree, together with the attacks
of the hostile Indians, caused the abandon-
ment of the mine, which has continued to
the present day. The members of the ex-
pedition of Robles unanimously agreed that
the entire region was rich in minerals, and
that to the east of the scene of their explo-
rations lay a mountain range containing nu-
merous veins of gold and silver, crossing
each other in all directions. Don Teodoro
Salazar, a man of veracity and great practi-
cal experience in mining, confirms this state-
ment; and adds that the earth seems to
112 SONORA.
invite the hand of man to develope the
enormous mineral wealth contained in its
bosom.
In treating of the mines of Sonora, we
shall confine ourselves to the period since
the year 1776, at which time the establish-
ment of a " commandancia general " in the
interior provinces of the western state
caused an increase of population, and a cor-
responding activity in mining operations.
The mineral region of the city of Alamos,
discovered more than one hundred and fifty
years ago, has been constantly worked up to
the present time. Its numerous mines, es-
pecially "La Quintera," in the Aduana, and
the "Europita," in Promontorio, have yielded
such immense quantities of silver as to in-
duce Gamboa, in his " Treatise on Mining,"
to remark that the revenues from Alamos
exceeded those from all the rest of the
kingdom. In the year when the scarcity of
quicksilver commenced to be felt, eighty-four
mines were worked to advantage.
MINES IN SONOEA. 113
From 1790 to 1800, heavy remittances of
silver were made from Alamos to the city of
Mexico, under the charge of Juan Alvarez,
the principal conductor. One of these re-
mittances, in 1799, according to the personal
observation of the author, exceeded sixteen
hundred bars, and it must be borne in mind
that there were other conductors besides
Alvarez, though the quantity transported by
them was not so great, and that other remit-
tances were made to Chihuahua and Kosa-
rio. Large quantities of gold were also re-
mitted, partly in dust and partly in bars ; in
1807, a Catalonian, Pablo Trilles by name,
remitted on his own account 1,207 marks of
gold, all taken from the mine of San Fran-
cisco ; this was also witnessed by the author.
In 1799, the first discovery of gold in the
western part of the State was made at San
Ildefonso de la Cieneguilla, of which many
incorrect accounts have been published.
This discovery was accidental and occurred
as follows :
114 SONORA.
A company of soldiers from Altar, on their
way to chastise the Ceris, having encamped
in that neighborhood, one of their number,
who was strolling about one hundred yards
from the camp, observed that the bed of a
small ditch formed by the rains was of a
yellowish color, and upon further examina-
tion, he collected a number of pieces of gold
from the size of a lentile to that of a bean.
He reported this to the commander of the
detachment, who immediately ordered a
careful examination of the surrounding
country; the result being the discovery of
gold in all parts, in greater or less quan-
tity.
The gold lay upon the surface, scattered
about like grains of corn. The gambucinos
followed its direction to the west to the dis-
tance of two or three leagues, where they
encountered a natural phenomenon. The
beds of all the ravines, within a circumfer-
ence of more than four leagues, were cov-
ered with particles of gold — hundreds of
MINES IN SONORA. 115
these particles weighing from one to twenty-
seven marks, and presenting the appearance
of having passed through a furnace. After
the surface gold was exhausted, shafts were
sunk and tunnels run through a vein of cal-
careous stone in some places, and in others
through a stratum of red stone, both of
which contained gold, and from which large
quantities were extracted. A certain Covar-
rubias took out more than $100,000.
The mine continued to yield in this man-
ner for about eight years, and after that
period, although its production was less, the
Yaqui gambucinos worked it to great ad-
vantage. The mine was actively worked
until 1803, when a second mine was discov-
ered, called San Francisco, seven leagues
from the first to the east of Cieneguilla.
This was discovered October 4th, 1803,
by Teodoro Salazar, who, with four or five
workmen, was journeying to a small range
of hills in that neighborhood, in search of a
mine of which he had received notices.
116 SONORA.
When within a short distance of the hills, he
was obliged to halt in a ravine for the pur-
pose of arranging his loads, and while the
servants were thus occupied, he took a hand-
ful of sand from the ground, and upon blow-
ing it discovered particles of gold. He im-
mediately encamped, and having in four or
five days satisfied himself of the value of
his discovery, he returned to the settlements
with his trains, their intention being to con-
ceal the fact from the public, and to return
alone to the spot with provisions and mining
implements. All their precautions, however,
proved unavailing ; they were followed and
discovered in the act of extracting the pre-
cious metal, and in eight days the entire
population of Cieneguilla and the neighbor-
ing places, rushed to the spot.
This mine proved extremely rich; the gold
being scattered about on the surface in great
abundance, especially in the ravines. In the
ravine called San Miguelena, the gold was
so abundant that three, four, and even five
MINES IN SONOEA. 117
marks were often collected in five minutes,
the grains being of the size of a bean.
During the year, from fifteen to twenty
thousand persons from all parts of the State,
and from Chihuahua, Durango and Sinaloa,
assembled at this place. The mine was
worked with activity until the year 1810,
when certain arbitrary proceedings of the
Governor disgusted the miners, and induced
numbers of them to leave. Nevertheless,
for many years the quantity of gold ex-
tracted was respectable, and large lumps
were occasionally discovered ; one, found by
a Yaqui, weighed one hundred ounces, and
the largest of which we have accounts
weighed twenty-eight marks.
Some of these particles of gold were so
singular in their form as to merit particular
attention. One bore a strong resemblance
to the images of our Lady of Guadalupe ;
some resembled the human body, or portions
thereof; and one thin plate was as smooth
and brilliant as if burnished by the hand of
118 SONORA.
a goldsmith. In portions of this mineral
region, nearest to the Sierra, much of the
gold was mixed with white quartz, which
gave birth to the idea, that the gold had its
origin in rich veins of quartz in the bosom of
the Sierra ; and this opinion was afterwards
verified by the discovery of a famous mine
in the heart of the mountains. The first
discoverers were some Yaqui Indians, who
labored secretly for several months ; it then
passed to a gambucino woman called La Ju,
and being abandoned by her, was worked by
Don Teodoro Salazar.
It is not known how much gold was taken
out of this mine by the Yaquis, but they
were observed by the traders to have large
quantities in their possession. Salazar de-
nounced the mine, established proper works,
and after laboring some time without remun-
eration, struck a pocket of gold which paid
all of his expenses and left him a large sur-
plus. His custom was to send up in sacks
from the bottom of the mine to the surface,
MINES IN SONORA. 119
the virgin gold, quartz, and earth supposed
to contain gold, all mixed together, whence
it was conveyed to his house. Thus no other
person could form even an approximate es-
timate of the yield of the mine, though it
was known to be very rich; and although it
is now abandoned and full of water, it would
richly repay any person who would reclaim
it. There is another gold mine one league
from San Francisco, not so rich as the former,
but yielding much gold twenty-two and
twenty-three carats fine.
Also to the south, in the Sierra, veins of
gold were found, which were worked by per-
sons who had their establishments in the
creek of San Bias; but in a few months the
waters of the creek failed and put a stop to
the operations. From the personal observa-
tion of the author, and information derived
from persons well acquainted with the facts,
it may safely be said that the average an-
nual yield of the mine of San Francisco, in
the time of its prosperity, was from four to
120 SONORA.
five millions of dollars. Quitovac, San An-
tonio, Sonoita, El Zone, La Basura, San
Perfecto, Las Palomas, El Alamo, El Muerto
and Yado Seco, are gold mines discovered
from 1834 to 1844, of which we will speak
more fully hereafter.
Among the old mines, we may mention
those of Cajon, six leagues from San Fran-
cisco and twelve from Cieneguilla, most of
them of gold; and those of the hacienda of
Santa Rosa, near Cajon, which yielded great
quantities of silver in 1798, 1799, 1800 and
1802. Don Jacinto del Pino, who worked
one of these mines, presented the author,
when a child newly baptised, with four arro-
bas of selected ore, which yielded sixty two
marks of pure silver. The average of the
proportion of the best ores was six, eight
and twelve marks to the arroba, and of the
poorer, two to four marks.
There was a scarcity of ore in the Santa
Rosa mines on account of the narrowness of
the veins, and some of them were so hard
MINES IN SONORA. 121
that much powder was required for working
them.
All parts of this mountain are impreg-
nated with veins, which cross each other in
every direction ; and in fact, we may safely
say that the entire Sierra is one vast bed of
precious minerals.
It is rarely the case in these regions that
nature is so prodigal in her favors as to con-
fer, at once, the precious metals and that
which is necessary for extracting them;
thus,, in the mines of San Francisco so rich
in gold, water is extremely scarce, being
brought from the river Arituava, seven
leagues distant, and sold at three or four
reals per barrel, and in the dry season at
one dollar. There being no timber fit for
building, the houses are framed of a green
wood, which is very frail, and the walls are
of upright poles filled in with clay. If the
waters of the river were conducted to the
placer, or if artesian wells were sunk and
reservoirs formed, so as to wash the im-
K
122 SONORA.
mense deposits of earth that contain the
fine gold, it is probable that the yield would
equal, if not exceed, that of former times.
During the rains, which are generally of
brief duration in these regions, lagoons or
ponds are formed ; but as the soil is sandy,
these last but a few days. The gold mines
near San Antonio de la Huerta were par-
ticularly favored, being in the immediate
neighborhood of the Rio Grande. These
mines are said to have been rich, and the
gold was found in coarse grains ; the largest
ever found weighed forty marks.
The gold mines of the presidio of Bacua-
chi are celebrated in the State, as well as
those at the copper mines of Cananea. The
gold is coarse, and pieces have been found
weighing twenty-five marks. These mines
might be made to yield abundantly, but
those who work them are in constant danger
of being cut off by the savages.
The mines of Jotahiqui, in the northern
part of Pimeria Alta, are doubtless as rich
MINES IN SONORA. 123
as those of Cieneguilla and San Francisco ;
these were discovered in 1818, and had
been worked but a few days, when the
Apaches murdered the proprietor and sev-
eral of the workmen; for which reason the
place was abandoned.
The mines of Vado Seco, to the north of
the pueblo of San Ignacio, on the road to
Tucson, were abandoned for the same cause,
after having been worked but a short time.
In the last century was discovered the
famous placer Sobia, ont he main road to
the city of Alamos, half way between that
place and Varoycea. This mining settle-
ment is now reduced to a single rancho,
although mines of gold were discovered
after the surface deposits were exhausted.
The placers and mines of gold at Aigame,
eighteen leagues to the south of Hermosillo,
yielded extraordinary quantities of the pre-
cious metal. The " Prietas," " Verdes," and
others of the richest mines were abandoned
as soon as they commenced to fill with
124 SONORA.
water. The gambucinos remained for some
time afterwards/ working the abandoned
mines and causing great damage to them,
as their labors were conducted without reg-
ularity or proper precautions.
In the mineral regon of Mulatos, in the
eastern part of the State, at the entrance of
the Sierra and seventy leagues from Hermo-
sillo, two gold mines were found, from which
were taken several thousand marks of metal,
of twenty-four carats fine.
Besides the mines above mentioned, which
are now abandoned, others have been dis-
covered, some of which are at present occa-
sionally worked.
LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF
' ALIFORNIA.
-
CHAPTER XIV.
MINES THAT ARE WORKED AT THE PRESENT DAY.
THE mineral region of San Javier, thirty-
five leagues east of Hermosillo, and in the
neighborhood of San Antonio de la Huerta,
was celebrated in the middle of the last
century for its numerous silver mines, the
most noted of them being Naguila, Las Ani-
mas, Los Afuerenos and La Grande ; these
yielded abundantly, as shown by the enor-
mous quantities of silver remitted to the
city of Mexico.
La Naguila is situated on the highest hill
in this region, in sight of the main road ;
its ores were formerly abundant, and their
" ley" (proportion of silver) ten marks to the
" carga ; " it however filled with water, and
K*
126 SONORA.
although an attempt was made to work it,
it was abandoned upon encountering a cer-
tain kind of rock called " caballo."
Las Animas is also one of the old mines,
and is now choked with earth ; the " ley "
of its ores was four or five marks to four
arrobas ; its vein is narrow but contains an
abundance of ferruginous ore, which, though
rejected by the miners in former times,
yields three to four marks of silver to the
"carga." The ores " de azogue " (reducible
by quicksilver) are also abundant, and of
about the same " ley."
In Los Afuernos the vein is half a vara
in breadth, and was profitably worked by a
certain Castillo. The mines of La Grande
were equally rich with the others, and a
person named Esquer has undertaken the
task of reopening them.
At San Javier was established the second
territorial mining deputation ; and there was
distributed quicksilver to all the matricula-
ted miners of the province of Upper Sonora.
MINES THAT AKE WOKKED. 127
The mines of this settlement are worked
at the present day, but not with activity, as
they are principally in the hands of the
gambucinos, who labor without method or
assistance \ nevertheless, the annual yield of
silver is considerable, most of it being " de
fuego " (reducible by fire). In every direc-
tion may be observed veins of metal unex-
plored, with the exception of a few super-
ficial excavations.
The mine of Subiate, eleven leagues to
the south of Hermosillo, was discovered in
the year 1813. Its first owners not being
able to pay their expenses, sold it to two
persons called Monge and Munoz, who, by
increasing the number of workmen and car-
rying on their operations in accordance with
the mining regulations, derived a handsome
profit from a mine hitherto worthless. Mu-
noz, having acquired sufficient wealth, sold
his interest to Francisco Montevideo, who
continued the operations in company with
Monge until the death of the latter, who
128 SONORA.
left a large fortune ; Montevideo then be-
came sole owner of the mine and has worked
it up to the present time. Its average " ley"
does not exceed five to six marks to three
"cargas," but occasionally ores are found
which yield two to three marks to the " arro-
ba" (twenty-five pounds). At present, the
water flows into it, to the serious prejudice
of the owner, whose sole profits, for some
time past, have been derived from furnish-
ing supplies to his workmen.
The mining region of Varoyeca was dis-
covered in 1792. Its first mine, four leagues
to the south on the road to Alamos, yielded
almost fabulous quantities of silver, and was
first worked for some years by the padre
Yaldes. The fame of its wealth attracted
a large number of persons from other parts
of Sonora and from abroad, and many traders
amassed large fortunes by supplying this
multitude with provisions. The padre above
mentioned is said to have possessed so chari-
table and benevolent a disposition, that he
MINES THAT ARE WORKED. 129
gave to all comers an opportunity of work-
ing in the mine, so that while the yield was
abundant, there was scarcely a poor person
to be found in Varoyeca. The fame of this
worthy ecclesiastic has been handed down
to the present generation, and a testimonial
of the affectionate regard entertained for
him still exists in the shape of a number of
sacred articles of pure silver presented to
the parish church; their value being not less
than $30,000.
This mine, after passing through various
hands, and suffering from the attacks of the
gambucinos, is now worked by Don Salva-
dor, who, at an expense of some thousands
of dollars, has cleared the works that were
choked with earth and is now extracting
good ores.
All the hills that environ Yaroyeca are of
mineral formation ; and the fact of their not
being explored at present, is owing to the
high price of quicksilver and the scarcity
of laborers.
130 SONOKA.
The mining region of the city of Alamos,
which comprises the Promontorio, three
leagues, and the Aduana, one league, to the
west, and the face of the small mountain
range on the south, contains eight leagues
of pure mines, most of them on the slopes
and in the gorges of the said sierra. In
every direction are seen old and new mines,
so that it may be said, without exaggera-
tion, that there is not a hand's breadth of
the soil which does not contain some vein of
precious metal.
Among the richest and most ancient
mines, that of Quintera holds the first posi-
tion, several millions having been taken from
it since its discovery, one hundred years ago.
It is of immense depth — vulgar rumor states
it at two miles. It has been abandoned by
its owners, and is now worked by gambu-
cinos.
The mine called Balvaneda, situated in
Promontorio, belongs to Jose Maria Almada.
It Was formerly very rich, and now yields
MINES THAT ARE WORKED. 131
handsomely, though the water flowing into
it causes trouble and expense.
La Europita, also in Promontorio, is now
worked by Don Manuel Salido.
La Cotera, in the Aduana, is now worked
by Don Bartolo Almada.
Santo Domingo, also in the Aduana, is
worked by Don Ignacio and Don Saturnino
Almadas. The mine of Nacacheran, in the
same, is worked by Don Pedro Perron ; La
Libertad, by Don Manuel de la Brena.
That of Minas Nuevas is worked by Don
Pedro Garces and the legatee of the late
Don Jose Maria Moreno. This mine was
discovered in the beginning of the present
century, and is situated two leagues to the
west of Alamos.
There are many other mines in this re-
gion that are abandoned on account of the
high price of quicksilver ; nevertheless, its
yield of silver is greater than that of any
other mining region in the State, and all the
capitalists in the city of Alamos are indebted
132 SONORA.
to the mines for their fortunes. There are
also many old mines of whose origin we
know nothing, except from tradition. Of
these, we will only mention Piedras Verdes,
five leagues to the north of Alamos ; Nar-
vares, in the Promontorio, which is full of
water; Calesa, in the Aduana, and "Los
Cangrejos."
There are three large haciendas for the
reduction of metals in the city of Alamos,
called "La Aurora," "La Ubalama," and
"Las Cabras;" five in the Aduana; one in
Talajiosa ; that of Larragoitias ; that of Los
Espinosas, and the old hacienda of Promon-
torio. There are also two in Minas Nuevas,
making eleven in all.
Babicanora, discovered at the end of the
last century, eight leagues to the east of
Arispe, and four from Sonoquipe, in the
sierra running north and south, was very
rich when worked by the intendente, Don
Alejo Garcia Conde, who also established a
hacienda for the reduction of ores below
MINES THAT
Sonoquipe, one mile from the bank of the
river. Being abandaned by Garcia Conde,
it was denounced by Don Salvador Moreno,
who discovered a vein of surpassing rich-
ness. At his death it was abandoned, and |
is now worked by a few gambucinos, at the
risk of their lives ; this point being particu- ;
larly exposed to the Apaches.
The mine of Tajo, in the jurisdiction of
Cucurpe, is of great antiquity, and its first
possessor is unknown. Being now full of
water, and in a ruinous condition, no one
dares to Attempt its exploration, although
every one is convinced of the richness of
its ores. It is worked at present by two or
three persons, on a very small scale.
La Alameda; this mineral region, situ-
ated seven leagues to the west of the pue-
blo of Nacameri, was discovered in 1835.
Its mines are all of silver, of different de-
grees of richness, the ley of the best being
seven marks to the " bulto," (nine hundred
pounds) and of the poorest, three. It has
134 SONORA.
•
been almost deserted on account of the
Apaches; two mines only being worked by
gambucinos, who are in constant fear of los-
ing their lives.
Batuco, contains both gold and silver
mines and "placers." These are seldom
worked, on account of the Apaches.
Rio Chico, in the south-western part of
the State, forty leagues from Hermosillo,
and near the Rio Grande, is one of the most
ancient mineral regions of Sonora; and in
the last century produced great quantities
of silver and gold, there being both mines
and placers of the latter. At present the
gambucinos are working a few of the mines,
without order or method.
El Aguaje is a mineral region of the last
century. Its most interesting silver mines
are Guillamena, Ubarbol, and La Grande.
One of them is now worked by Juan Jose
Buelna; the others are abandoned, except
by the gambucinos.
Minas Prietas, belonging to Aigame, are
MINES THAT AEE WORKED. 135
worked by two or three persons, at a great
disadvantage, on account of the want of suf-
ficient means. There is no doubt that they \
would yield largely, if sufficient capital were
brought to bear upon them.
Suaque contains many mines of gold
and silver, which, to this day, have been
worked with little activity, by persons of
small means. Notwithstanding this, it has
at times yielded largely. At present, but
two mines are worked, on a small scale.
Saguaripa, a Pima puebla, contains nu-
merous mines, most of which are desert-
ed. There are two in operation, which
yield but little more than their expenses,
their owners not possessing a sufficiency of
capital.
La Trinidad is one of the oldest mineral
regions in the State, at the base of the
Sierra Madre. Its entire area is composed
of mines, most of which have never been
worked. There is at present but one in
operation, and its labors are carried on with
136 SONORA.
but little activity, on account of the scarcity
of funds.
Six leagues to the north of the road to
the town of Cavorca others are worked by
the gambucinos, according to their method,
or rather, their lack of method. They at-
tack the pillars or supports of the mines,
thereby causing their total ruin.
San Ildefonso de la Cieneguilla ; scarcely
any region equals this in its number of veins
of gold and silver. Its first mine, called
" Descubridora," discovered four years after
the first placers, yielded abundant quantities
of silver ores — the "ley" of the poorest be-
ing five to seven, and of the best, twelve
and fifteen marks to the " bulto " of three
"cargas" (nine hundred pounds).
Its owner, Don Antonio Enrique de Castro,
by an approximate calculation, received from
it in less than four years, $2,000,000, and
as much more was distributed among the
brokers and traders, who purchased the
small pieces of silver which were weekly
MINES THAT ARE WORKED. 137
paid to the workmen. Fifty small estab-
lishments, for crushing ores, were in con-
stant operation, and their proprietors real-
ized large profits. Castro erected a large
establishment for the reduction of ores, be-
ing the only one in Sonora that was worked by
mule or horse power ; and every fifteen days
he extracted four or five hundred marks, be-
sides the " plata de fuego " from the jars (va-
sos). This state of things continued for five
years, when they reached a spot where the
vein was crossed by a rock, called by miners
" caballo," and it was nearly a year before
this obstruction was removed. A short time
afterwards, the director of the mine, a per-
son of great intelligence and experience,
died, and the vein being crossed by another
similar rock, all efforts to trace its course
proved fruitless. The owner having during
this delay expended the greater part of
what he had received from the mine, in at-
tempting to remove the obstacles above men-
tioned, became discouraged and obtained
138 SONORA.
permission to remove the pillars. These
yielded nearly half a million, but although
the mine was secured by supports of strong
and imperishable timber, and in some places
with stone and mortar, the gambucinos, in a
few years, left it completely in ruins.
Many other mines were discovered in the
neighborhood of this, but none so rich or
abundant in ores. Only one exceeded it in
the quantity of its ores, viz : the Cerro Col-
orado, six leagues to the east of Cieneguilla,
on the right of the road to the placers of
San Francisco, which also belonged to Cas-
tro. Its vein was so wide and soft, that one
man with a pick (barretero) could excavate
about one hundred " cargas " daily, but its
"ley" did not exceed five to seven ounces
to three " cargas," so that it was not consid-
ered profitable to work.
Castro also worked other mines, some of
which were profitable, and others not. The
one most celebrated for its richness, although
this lasted but for a short lime, was San Ati-
MINES THAT ARE WORKED. 139
lano, where, in the vein of silver, were fre-
quently found small pockets containing con-
siderable quantities of coarse gold — conse-
quently its ores contained a proportion of
gold. This mine was worked for three or
four years and then abandoned, as was also
that of San Teodoro, which was at first ex-
ceedingly rich; some of its ores, of a yellow-
ish color, yielding nearly fifty per cent, of
pure silver.
Castro abandoned his operations, which
for many years sustained the mining inter-
ests of that region, and was succeeded by
Teodoro Salazar, who still continues to work
these mines at intervals, hut without suffi-
cient activity to excite a spirit of enterprise
in others, contenting himself with very mod-
erate profits. A few poor persons also labor
in some of the abandoned mines, hiring two
or three workmen when they can afford it.
The placers of gold support a few Yaqui
gambucinos, who gain generally from six to
eight reals per day ; sometimes not more than
140 SONORA.
three or four. They occasionally discover
rich spots, which are soon exhausted by the
multitude of gambucinos that rushes to them.
The distance from the old placers one and a
half leagues west of Cieneguilla, to the Gulf
of California, is twenty-five leagues, and all
of the intermediate country is impregnated
with gold ; the time will doubtless arrive
when this spacious region will yield count-
less riches.
La Basura : this is the first mining region
of gold and silver discovered in the country
of the Papagos, (in 1835) and is situated
eight leagues to the north of Cavorca. Its
mines are numerous, especially those of gold ;
but although these are of marvelous rich-
ness, this lasts but a short time, as the de-
posits extend but a short distance below the
surface. This region, which formerly con-
tained a population of two or three thousand
souls, is now almost abandoned, owing to the
emigration of its inhabitants to other places
supposed to be more abundant in gold.
MINES THAT ARE WORKED. 141
San Perfecto was the second discovery
made in the Papago country; it is now
nearly deserted.
Quitovac was the third discovery made in
the western part of the Papago country, fifty
leagues from Cavorca and from the town of
Guadalupe. The placers were first worked,
they being very abundant in gold, which lay
in grains on the surface as at San Francisco
and Cieneguilla. Afterwards many mines
were opened to the depth of ten or fifteen
varas, some of which yielded from four to
eight ounces of gold to the bowl, (batea)
and others not more than three cents. The
largest lump of pure gold taken out weighed
twenty-one marks, but a piece of gold-bear-
ing quartz — nearly all gold — was found, that
weighed more than thirty marks.
San Antonio, another placer, three leagues
to the west of Quitovac, was discovered a
few days after the latter, and was exceed-
ingly rich at the surface. The discovery of
these placers was owing to Father Faustino
142 SONOEA.
Gonzales, who prevailed upon the Papago
Indians to reveal their locality, these tribes
having previously imagined that they would
be put to death if the existence of their
treasures were known. Their scruples hav-
ing been overcome, they conducted Don
Dionisio Gonzales and some others to the
spot, and in a short time the whites and In-
dians, in great numbers, were working ami-
cably together; as in the outset there were
no scales to weigh the gold, certain persons
took advantage of the simplicity of the In-
dians and exchanged silver and copper
money for its bulk in gold. Women also
made fortunes by selling the miserable bread
that they made; a lady of one of the best
families is said to have obtained eight ounces
for four or five dozen tortillas. Gonzales
made a large fortune ; so did a number of
others, who, however, soon squandered their
wealth. The placer continued rich for sev-
eral years, and was worked until 1841, when
the Papagos rose and expelled the whites.
MINES THAT ARE WORKED. 143
After quiet was restored, a few persons re-
turned to Quitovac and worked some mines
discovered after the placers, in the neighbor-
hood of an abundant spring, capable of
supplying a population of thirty to forty
thousand.
Sonoita is a valley in which are situated
the most western settlements of the Papa-
gos ; it is twelve leagues from Quitovac, on
the road to Upper California. None but
gambucinos and a few traders frequented it,
on account of its exposure to the hostile
tribes. The gold was very fine and light,
so that an ounce in weight was nearly dou-
ble the bulk of the gold from other places.
Alamo Muerto is sixteen leagues west of
Cavorca, and contains gold and silver mines
and placers ; it was discovered in the same
year as Quitovac. and although its ores yield
a fair proportion of silver, the scarcity of
quicksilver has prevented their being work-
ed to any great extent. There were, how-
ever, ten mines in operation at the time of
144 SONORA.
the rising of the Papagos, all of which were
abandoned. The placers of gold were of
little consideration.
Las Palomas, two leagues to the south of
Alamo Muerto, were rich placers of gold
similar to those of Quito vac; several business
houses and many stores for the sale of pro-
visions were located there. It was aban-
doned on account of the Papagos, and is
now frequented merely by a few Indian
gambucinos, who are satisfied with enough
to provide them with food.
El Zone was discovered in 1844, and is
as yet but little known. It contains numer-
ous gold mines — some of them quite rich at
the surface ; from one of them was taken a
mass of quartz of twenty-five pounds weight,
yielding fifty per cent, of pure gold.
It would require a volume of formidable
dimensions to describe all the mines of So-
nora, or even those which have come under
the personal observation of the author. It
will be sufficient to state that from the " rio
MINES THAT ARE WORKED. 145
del Fuerte," which divides Sonora from Sin-
aloa to the river Gila on the north, and from
the Colorado on the north-west to the Sierra
Madre on the east, there is not a settlement
or rancho which does not contain a vein of
gold, silver, lead or copper- and placers, al-
though not so general in the interior, abound
all along the northern and western frontiers.
M
CHAPTER XV.
MINES OF IRON, LEAD, COPPER AND QUICKSILVER.
BETWEEN the presidios of Tucson and Tu-
bac, there is a range of mountains called
Madera, and the puerto de los Muchachos,
scattered about the base of which are enor-
mous masses of pure iron ; some of these
were transported to Tucson, and for many
years were to be seen in the plaza of that
presidio. Old soldiers relate that in their
numerous campaigns against the Indians,
they found in Mogollon, a range of moun-
tains in the Apache country, many iron
mines, and masses of this metal on the sur-
face; also lead and copper. They made
similar statements in relation to the moun-
tains on the frontier of the country of the
Papagos, and the tribes of the Colorado.
MINES OF IRON, LEAD, ETC. 147
In 1801, when Father Faustino Gonzales
(a man of benevolent disposition and spot-
less character) was missionary to Cavorca,
an Indian of the tribe called Tadchidume,
to the north of the Colorado, presented him
with a jar of pure quicksilver, assuring him
"that at the foot of a hill in his country , there
was a small lake of this heavy ivater" being en-
tirely ignorant of the name and qualities of
this production of nature. His extreme
simplicity, and the lack of a competent inter-
preter, prevented Gonzales from obtaining
more explicit information.
The padre had relations with Don Jose
Velasco, an influential inhabitant of Ciene-
guilla, and notified him by letter of this im-
portant information; but as at that time all
branches of business were much depressed,
and quicksilver abundant and cheap, no
further attention was paid to the matter.
According to tradition, a quicksilver mine
exists in the mineral region of Rio Chico.
Don Ignacio Araiza, of Hermosillo, who
148 SONORA.
devoted his life and entire fortune to mining
— dying deeply in debt — made an examina-
tion of some stones from the hill called San-
ta Teresa, and ascertained that they con-
tained quicksilver ; but as at that time the
price of that metal was low, the art of ex-
tracting it entirely unknown in the State,
and the vein of metal very narrow, this dis-
covery excited little or no interest.
There are several copper mines in the in-
terior of the State, and many more on the
frontier ; of these we will mention a few.
La Cananea is a mountain range, forty
leagues to the north of Arispe ; all of this
region abounds in copper ores, and in many
places contains virgin copper. These mines
were actively worked in the last century by
the House of Guea, of Chihuahua, who took
out thousands of quintals of copper ore,
much of which contained a proportion of
gold. When the House of Guea was dis-
solved, the operations at Cananea were aban-
doned; but were afterwards resumed by Don
MINES OF IRON, LEAD, ETC. 149
Jose Perez, of Arispe, although with less ac-
tivity than before ; several thousand quin-
tals, however, were taken out, and sold at
Guayrnas or shipped abroad. After the
death of Perez, the mines were worked by
his son and others; but the want of capital
and the incursions of the Apaches soon
caused their total abandonment.
Antunes, an old region of gold mines, also
contains copper mines, which were worked
from 1828 to 1830. Notwithstanding the
abundance and excellent quality of the ores,
the enterprise failed on account of the inex-
perience of the proprietors and the absence
of a proper system of reduction.
Tonuco, twelve leagues west of Hermo-
sillo, contains veins of copper ores which
yielded about twenty-five per cent, of pure
metal ; its mines are now abandoned.
Bacuachi, twenty leagues west of Hernio-
sillo, contains in its surrounding hills many
copper mines which have been but superfic-
ially explored.
150 SONORA.
La Cobriza, a small mountain range, twelve
leagues to the west of Horcasitas, well de-
serves its name, as its entire surface is im-
pregnated with copper. No practical exam-
ination of these mines has as yet been
made.
In the mountain range of Guachapa, near
the presidio of Tucson, there are many
veins of virgin copper, from which were
made the bells of the said presidio.
Lead is rarely found in the interior of the
State, but abounds in Cieneguilla and the
frontier of Arispe. It is also found at Batu-
eo, San Jose de Gracia, Aduana and Prom-
ontonio. Cieneguilla and Arizpe contain the
greatest quantity of lead. The auther saw
at the first mentioned place, in 1797, in the
house of Castro, over one thousand bars of
lead, weighing from four to seven arrobas
each; and in Arispe, more than one thou-
sand quintals were deposited at one time for
the use of the garrison.
Agua Caliente, Alamo Muerto, and the
OTHER MINERALS AND STONES OF VALUE. 151
other mineral regions of the Papago coun-
try, also contain lead in abundance.
OTHER MINERALS AND STONES OF VALUE.
Veins of copperas are found at San Anto-
nio de la Iluerta, San Javier, Cieneguilla,
Agua Caliente, and other mineral regions of
the frontier. In San Jose de la Pimas there
is a small hill entirely composed of black
lead. Small pieces of it, without any prep-
aration, mark as well as pencils imported
from abroad. In San Javier is a vein of a
dark color, on the face of a hill, from which
is extracted a compact earth. By dissolv-
ing this in water a fine ink is obtained, sim-
ilar to the Indian ink from China.
In Oposura there is a hill composed of
excellent marble, of which the altars in all
the churches of Sonora are built; drinking
cups, salt-cellars, inkstands, etc., are also made
from it. In the pueblo of Ures there is also
a hill that contains marble ; but not in such
abundance as the one in Oposura.
152 • SONORA.
The hill of "La Campana," in the city of
Hermosillo, is of marble as white as that of
Italy ; and Oposura and Ures, besides mar-
ble, contain jasper and alabaster. In Guay-
mas, excellent stone for building is procured
from the hills that surround the bay. This
was discovered in 3828.
The building stone of Hermosillo, near
the hacienda of Chine Gordo, was discovered
in 1847 by an architect who was employed
by Don Manuel Inigo. The existence of
this kind of stone was previously unknown
in Hermosillo. The city of Alamos also
contains excellent stone for building, of
which most of its houses are constructed.
Near the mouth of the river Colorado are
found muriate and carbonate of soda, and
saltpeter or nitrate of potash, in great abun-
dance ; these also exist in the interior of the
State, though not to so great an extent.
Flint is found, both in the interior and in
the mountains on the frontier; and load-
stone exists in the Canada de Barbitas, ten
OTHER MINERALS AND STONES OF VALUE. 153
leagues from Hermosillo, and in various
mountains of the Apache country. Calca-
reous stone, of which lime is made, is com-
mon throughout the State ; and in the neigh-
borhood of Cucurpe there is a vein of crys-
tal, which possesses the peculiarity of being
incombustible.
In concluding this description of the mines
of Sonora, we may observe that, although
experience goes to prove that they are gen-
erally sooner exhausted than those of Guan-
ajuato, Zacatecas, etc., this rule has many
exceptions. There are mines in the region
of Alamos, discovered more than a century
since, that still yield largely. In this con-
nection, also, may be mentioned " La Na-
guila," in San Javier ; Los Preciados, in San
Jose de Gracia, Tajo, Babicanora, and many
others. It should also be borne in mind, that
many mines in the last century were aban-
doned in good condition; and among other
reasons for this, the following may be cited.
The owners of these mines were generally
154 SONORA.
Spaniards, who regarded the poorer ores as
of no value — as they had no establishments
for their reduction on a large scale — and
confined their labors to the richer ores and
virgin silver which they frequently encoun-
tered. When these were no longer found
in abundance, they contented themselves
with what they had already gained, and
abandoned the mine, which naturally be-
came choked or full of water. The gambu-
cinos who then took charge, generally con-
fined their operations to the pillars, and left
the mines in a most ruinous condition.
Windlasses or pulleys were almost unknown;
and when the mine could not be kept free
of water by buckets drawn up by hand, it
was abandoned. It is impossible, for many
reasons, to make an exact statement of the
average annual products of the mines of So-
nora ; we however quote from the " Memo-
ria Estadistica del Estado de Occidente,"
published, in 1828, by Don Juan M. Riesgo
and Don A. J. Valdes, as follows : " Gener-
OTHER MINERALS AND STONES OF VALUE. 155
ally speaking, the minerals of Sonora and
Sinaloa are rich and abundant ; and it is im-
possible to estimate what energy and enter-
prise might accomplish in these vast regions,
overflowing with their treasures of copper,
lead, platina, quicksilver, gold and silver.
Their present annual production of gold and
silver bullion is computed at two millions of
dollars, notwithstanding the imperfections
that exist in every branch of mining."
In our judgment, this calculation is en-
tirely incorrect ; as when the States of So-
nora and Sinaloa were united, there were no
reliable statistics upon which to base an esti-
mate.
Confining ourselves solely to the mineral
regions of Sonora, from the city of Alamos
to Sonoita on the west, and Arizona on the
north, we may safely estimate the average
annual production of the mines, from 1835
to 1842, at $1,500,000.
CHAPTER XVI.
APACHE TRIBES. THEIR POPULATION, MANNERS,
CUSTOMS, ETC.
THE principal tribes of the Apaches that
border upon our territory, are the Coyoteros
or Pinaleros, the Tontos, the Chiricahuis, the
Indians of Sierra Blanca, and the Mogollones.
It is impossible to form an exact estimate of
their numbers, as they have no fixed habita-
tions ; and the most reliable data that we
possess on this point, are the accounts of the
troops that have been engaged in the vari-
ous campaigns against these savages. It is
probable that the entire number of Apaches
in Sonora is not more than three thousand,
and persons well acquainted with the fron-
tier say that the warriors of the tribes hos-
tile to the whites do not exceed one thousand.
APACHE TRIBES. 157
At present there is not an Apache settle-
ment in the State; a few families live at the
presidio of Fronteras, composed of old peo-
ple and their children, born and brought up
in Sonora. These frequently act as guides
for the troops, being well acquainted with
the topography of the country, and never
losing a trail even in the darkest nights.
The Apaches are of a bilious tempera-
ment, and their disposition is crafty, fickle,
bold, haughty and suspicious. They carry
their distrust to an extent unequaled among
other barbarous tribes, and this is especially
manifested among relations and members of
the same family. No Apache is ever found
off his guard, nor does he lay aside his arms
even for a moment.
Their stature and color vary in different
tribes, but they are all of swarthy complex-
ion and well proportioned, with long hair
and little or no beard. They paint the face
— especially the women — with ochre, and
the chiefs, both principal and subordinate,
N
158 SONORA.
wear caps of deerskin more or less decor-
ated with feathers, according to their rank.
Their dress consists of shoes, called " teguas,"
breeches of goat or deer skin, and a tunic
or frock of the same, open at the sides ; the
dress of the women is similar, with the ex-
ception of a short petticoat reaching to the
knees; both men and women have very
small feet, owing to their constantly wear-
ing shoes from their infancy. The women
adorn themselves with ear-rings of shell, or
small green and white stones resembling
crystal, and some of the men wear similar
ornaments.
They are constantly wandering from one
mountain range to another, seeking the most
inaccessible places, in order to avoid the
troops sent in pursuit of them, and have no
habitations worthy of the name. When they
form a temporary settlement, their dwellings
are wretched huts of poles covered with
grass, with a small door barely admitting a
grown person. If the place is wooded, they
APACHE TRIBES. 159
_
encamp at the foot of a trel
lower branches with grass to protect them
from the rain ; but as a general thing they
live in the open air without shelter of any
description.
They are shocking gluttons when they
have an abundance of food, a single Apache
having been known to devour at one meal
the lungs, liver, entrails and kidneys of a
large cow; but they endure hunger and
thirst with wonderful patience and fortitude,
going, at times, four or five, and even eight
days without food or water, excepting a few
roots and the mountain parsley, which, when
chewed, relieves their thirst. Formerly, be-
fore cattle were abundant on the frontier,
they subsisted on horse flesh and that of
various wild animals, the sacate and other
herbs ; but now that they have the run of
so many haciendas and ranches, abounding
in cattle, they live principally upon beef, and
the wild fruits that their country produces
in profusion. These savages pay no respect
160 SONORA.
to old age ; even those who have been re-
nowned for their courage and ability, are
treated with neglect when their youth and
vigor have passed away. Being of robust
frames and hardy constitutions, and accus-
tomed to brave all weathers, many of them
attain a great age, and the ordinary duration
of life among them is from seventy to eighty
years.
The father of a numerous family is gen-
erally recognized as its head or chief, includ-
ing both the children and grand-children,
who generally reside in the same settle-
ment ; in some cases this distinction is con-
ferred upon that member of the family who
has most distinguished himself in war, but
many Indians are so impatient of control,
that they prefer to live alone with their
wives and children.
Polygamy is common among them, and
an Indian frequently has six or seven wives.
These perform all the manual labor, and
from the skins of wild animals killed in the
APACHE TRIBES. 161
chase, manufacture the necessary articles of
dress for themselves and their husbands;
they also build the huts, collect fire-wood,
watch the animals while grazing, and in
short, perform all the drudgery that is -gen-
erally assigned to man. Their marriages
are affairs of mere bargain and sale ; the
groom purchases his bride from her father
for a certain number of skins or weapons; in
some cases for a horse ; if these are accepted
by the father, the match is made without re-
gard to the inclinations of the daughter.
The women are treated with the greatest
harshness and severity, and their lives are
frequently sacrificed to the jealousy of their
lords. The marriage is often dissolved by
mutual consent, in which case the wife re-
turns to her father, who is obliged to return
the articles received in exchange for her.
The women frequently elope, not being
able to endure the hardships to which they
are subjected ; and escaping to another set-
tlement, place themselves under the protec-
N*
162 SONORA.
tion of some chief, or Indian' of renowned
valor- in which case the husband preserves a
prudent silence.
Occasionally several " rancherias," or set-
tlements, are united at the same place, either
for the purpose of war or hunting. When
they meditate an attack upon their enemies,
the tribes contiguous to each other assem-
ble generally in the most inaccessible parts
of the mountains, and appoint their bravest
warrior as chief, to carry out their plan of
operations. In these cases it is forbidden to
light a fire, and sentinels of tried vigilance
are posted at every point of exposure.
Their favorite diversion is dancing, which
they practise at night to the music of a rude
drum ; both sexes take part in this with loud
shouts, violent gesticulations and the most
grotesque contortions of the limbs. If the
object of the dance is to celebrate a victory,
the scalps of the slain, fastened to poles, are
triumphantly flourished, or are sometimes
planted in the center of the arena, and the
APACHE TRIBES. 163
Indians dance around them for hours, utter-
ing the most diabolical yells.
The Apache believes in the existence of
a Supreme Being, called " Yastaritaune," or
Chief of the Heavens; but he has no concep-
tion of the divine attributes, nor of future
rewards and punishments.
He understands the brevity and uncer-
tainty of life, and confines himself to the
enjoyment of the present; forgetting the
past, and taking no heed for the future.
Nevertheless, there are not wanting among
them persons who are eager to understand
the truth of our religion, believing that
upon its Divine Founder depends their fu-
ture happiness or misery.
They have cunning soothsayers among
them, in whose prophecies they repose im-
plicit confidence. These charlatans also pro-
fess to cure diseases by a variety of ridiculous
ceremonies. They burn the bodies of their
dead. On these occasions much sorrow is
manifested by the relations of the deceased,
164 SONORA.
especially by the widow, who abandons her-
self to the wildest grief, and leaves her home
for another settlement. It is supposed, by
some who have had much intercourse with
these Indians, that they believe that the
soul after death enters the body of some
bird ; and as the screech owl is imagined to
be particularly favored in this respect, they
hold it in great veneration.
In cases of sickness, wrhen the disease re-
fuses to yield to the application of herbs —
the only remedy with which they are ac-
quainted— they abandon the patient, plac-
ing a heap of cinders and a little water at
his head. The meaning of this custom is
unknown.
The women bear children without pain or
difficulty, and plunge their infants into cold
water immediately after birth. If they are
taken in labor upon a march, they retire
from the road for a short time ; and then re-
sume their journey, carrying the newly born
child slung from the irshoulders in a basket.
APACHE TRIBES. 165
These Indians use no salt, which is not
found in their territory ; and they feel the
want of it so little, that they take no pains
to procure it from the white settlements.
They generally eat their meat raw ; and one
tribe — called Coyoteras — eat the flesh of
the coyote, although its taste and smell are
excessively disgusting.
No quality is so much esteemed among
the Apaches as courage ; and so highly do
they regard this, that none of their number
is held in any esteem until he has given
proofs of his valor on one or more occasions.
After he has thus signalized himself, he is
distinguished by the appellation of "San-
quie," meaning gallant or high spirited.
They obtain fire from the friction of two
kinds of wood, called " sosole " and " lechu-
gilla ;" they also use the flint and steel, but
prefer the first method.
The Apache lives in a state of nature,
recognizing no law except that of force.
Their chiefs exercise no authority except in
166 SONORA.
war, although they retain their rank in time
of peace ; and each family or individual is
governed by no rules except their own incli-
nation : consequently, there is an utter want
of security among them, the weaker being
invariably plundered by the stronger.
The father of a family exercises authority
over his children during their infancy ; but
when they arrive at the age of puberty, they
recognize no superior except the chief who
leads them in war. Bows and arrows are
put into their hands at the age of seven
years, and they soon become skillful marks-
men.
These savages are vindictive to the last
degree, and have never been known to for-
give or forget an injury. This feeling was
strongly exemplified by the murder of Don
Leonardo Escalante, a most estimable citi-
zen of Bacuachi, in 1829. This gentleman,
in assisting to quell a tumult among the
Apaches in the city, had the misfortune to
put out the eye of one of the Indians with
APACHE TRIBES. 167
a whip lash. He regretted the occurrence
extremely ; cured the man at his own ex-
pense, and presented him with horses, cloth-
ing, etc. The savage professed to be en-
tirely satisfied. Nevertheless, for eleven
years afterwards he watched for an oppor-
tunity of killing his victim ; and finally ac-
complished his purpose, on the road between
Bacuachi and Fronteras.
Their hunting parties are often large —
men, women and children attending them.
Their plan is to encircle a tract of land four
to six leagues in circumference, and then
set fire to the grass : the frightened animals
fly in all directions, and fall an easy prey to
the expectant hunters.
They hunt the deer singly or in couples.
Covering the head with the skull and horns
of a dead stag, and sometimes clothing them-
selves with the skin, they creep on all fours
towards the herd; and as the deer permit
their approach without the least suspicion,
they slaughter them at their leisure. They
168 SONORA.
also make use of the same artifice in war.
They care little for the flesh of birds,
though they kill them out of pure wanton-
ness; neither do they eat fish, although
these are abundant in their rivers, but sim-
ply make use of their bones for certain pur-
poses.
They hold the beaver in great esteem,
both on account of its flesh and fur, of which
they make cloaks, blankets and other arti-
cles of clothing.
On the 19th of March, 1846, the Apaches
first attacked the rancho of Metatitos, and
afterwards, on the same day, Bamuri, the
hacienda of Manuel Maria Gandara; they
murdered thirteen persons, and burned the
houses at both places, carrying off four hun-
dred and fifty horses, some of them of great
value. A vaquero made his escape and im-
parted the tidings to Gandara, who was on
his way to Barnuri, and the latter, scarcely
crediting the account, changed his course to
Topagui, eight leagues distant. Here he
APACHE TRIBES. 169
represented to the authorities the best plan
of surprising the savages in their retreat,
and having collected a small force of whites
and Yaqui Indians, he started in pursuit of
the enemy. Meanwhile the inhabitants of
Guadalupe, two leagues from Ures, sent a
body of eighteen men, well armed, under
the command of Don N. Bustamente, who
was accompanied by his son; and these in a
few hours came up with the enemy at the
rancho de la Noria, belonging to Francisco
Homo. Here they were utterly routed by
the savages, leaving four of their number
dead upon the field, including the two Bus-
tamentes.
When Gandara and his men reached Ba-
muri, the Apaches had retired to the other
bank of the river Ures ; the next day they
proceeded to the well of Victor de Aguilar,
where they murdered five persons, making
in all twenty-two victims, besides one woman
killed at Bamuri, and three youths carried
into captivity.
170 SONORA.
The audacity of the barbarians was never
more forcibly exemplified than in this in-
stance, and it seems almost incredible that
they should have been able to perpetrate
these outrages and escape with impunity, in
the immediate neighborhood of the towns
and ranches surrounding the capital, where
there were white, Yaqui and Opata troops,
comprising over five hundred men of the
battalion from Sinaloa, and a number of aux-
iliary troops on their way to Arispe.
In the month of April, of the same
year, sixteen persons — men, women and
children — left Bacanuche, the hacienda of
Don Ignacio Perez, for Arispe; they were
attacked by the Apaches in the mountains,
and being entirely unarmed, eight men
were killed, and the women and children
carried off.
In 1849 the Apaches attacked a train of
persons on their return from Upper Califor-
nia to their homes at the river San Ignacio,
and killed several; among others, Don N.
APACHE TRIBES. 171
Siquieros, an estimable citizen and skillful
physician.
In the same year, they made a descent
upon the rancho of a Spaniard — sixteen
leagues from the capital — who was at the
time in Upper California; murdered his wife
and several herdsmen, and carried off his
two marriageable daughters, besides all ar-
ticles of value that they could take with
them. Between the presidio of Janos and
Babispe, they attacked a train composed of
several wagons, attended by Americans and
other foreigners. When the Indians came
within hail, they professed that their object
was not to fight, but to exchange cattle for
fire-arms, and having thus removed the sus-
picions of the whites, the latter foolishly al-
lowed them to examine their arms. The
Indians immediately commenced an attack,
but were finally repulsed by the Americans,
who made a resolute defense ; they, how-
*
ever, lost five men and one wagon. In Jan-
uary, 1850, these barbarians poured down
172 SONORA.
from the northern frontier, and carried on
their depredations to a fearful extent. They
attacked, on the same day, the presidio of
Bacuachi, and the hacienda of Tetuachi,
four leagues to the south of Arispe. At
Bacuachi, they killed two laborers who were
engaged in herding cattle, wounded a sol-
dier, and drove off all the stock belonging
to the place ; at Tetuachi they burned all
the buildings, and the inmates escaped with
the greatest difficulty. At Tucson they
drove off all the cattle in sight of the in-
habitants, and having surprised a party from
Cucurpe, bound to Upper California, they
killed five persons, wounded a number of
others, and carried two women into captivity.
On the road from Batuc to Oposura they
surprised another party, on their way to the
interior; murdered seven persons and carried
off all the animals and articles of value.
We will not shock our readers by further
recapitulation of these lamentable occur-
rences, which so plainly mark the abject
APACHE TRIBES. 173
and indolent nature of the people of Sonora.
God grant that they may awaken from this
lethargy, which is leading them to their
utter destruction.
APPENDIX.
PRESENT CONDITION OF SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL
MINES OF ALAMOS DISTRICT.
THE Promontorio mine, otherwise known
as the Almada mine, is at present owned
and worked by Don Jose Maria Almada;
this is one of the best mines in the district,
its ores being exceedingly rich and abundant.
The Tiriti mine, to the south and adjoin-
ing the Promontorio, is said to be still richer,
but its vein is not so wide ; it is owned by
James Brady of Guaymas, who is about to
commence running a tunnel into it. The
pillars of this mine were taken out some
forty years ago by Pascual Gomez, and two
of them yielded $80,000.
The Dios Padre -. mine, adjoining the Pro-
176 SONORA.
montorio on the north, was, prior to 1860,
owned and worked by Fernando Arana, son-
in-law of Jose M. Almada. In August, 1860,
Andrew J. Wiley, an artist from California,
visited Alamos, made the acquaintance of
Arana, and having learned the history of
the mine, purchased it; and returning to Cal-
ifornia, associated himself with Messrs. W.
W. Light, D. Madox, U. F. Moulton, Skinker,
Backus, Beard, Sanborn, Oatman, Robinson
and L. A. Garnett. Mr. Wiley is now en-
gaged in sinking a shaft, and being a prac-
tical miner and a persevering man, will
probably soon reap the reward of his labors.
The Quintera and Libertad are mines to
the north of the Dios Padre ; the Pulpito,
on the same lead, was discovered within the
last two years, by a Mexican of the lower
class, who worked it secretly, packing the
ore upon his back some two miles to a se-
cluded spot, where he extracted it in a rude
manner. Jose Maria Almada, ascertaining
the richness of the ore taken out by the
APPENDIX. 177
Mexican, at once took steps to denounce the
mine for himself; but his whole time and
attention being absorbed by the Promonto-
rio mine, he permitted the Mexican to con-
tinue his labors.
In January, 1861, Mr. Rountree purchased
the rights of both parties, suffering the Mex-
ican to prosecute his work, as he was rather
benefiting the mine than otherwise. Mr.
Eountree's associates in this mine are Messrs.
W. W. Light, Johnson Price, Thos. Finley,
Robt. S. Stilwell, J. R. Hardenburg, and
other citizens of Sacramento and San Fran-
cisco. They are about to commence opera-
tions upon the mine, wrhich is extremely
rich, and will doubtless yield fortunes to its
owners.
The Nacacharama mine, situated nine
miles from the city of Alamos, is one of the
most celebrated in the district, having been
extensively worked by the Spaniards in the
early days of Sonora ; but for many years
it has been abandoned on account of the
178 SONORA.
influx of water. For the last twenty-five
years it was claimed by Don Pedro Peron,
who has attempted to work it ; but having
no machinery for clearing it of water, ex-
cept a common windlass and bucket, he be-
came discouraged and abandoned the enter-
prise. The mine remained idle until August,
1860, when the writer visited Alamos, and
purchased the mine for himself, Hon. J. G.
Baldwin, Messrs. Thomas H. Williams, Wm.
S. Long, Henry Fouche, Solomon Heyden-
feldt, Samuel Doake, and others. This mine
has the reputation of being one of the rich-
est in the world.
The Vista Nacacharama, now known as
the Sacramento Company's mine, was lately
denounced by the writer for himself, Messrs.
Ira Oatman, Goggins, Bowman and White-
side ; the latter has lately gone to Alamos to
superintend operations. This mine promises
to be equally as rich as the Nacacharama.
The Mina Grande, Europa, Iglesia and
Palomas are all well spoken of by tradition.
APPENDIX. 179
The first two were denounced by Michael
Gray in January, I860, and afterwards sold
to John Heard, who is now working them.
The Cerro Colorado mine is situated some
eight or nine leagues from the city of Ala-
mos, on the bank of the Mayo river, and
derives its name from the reddish color of
the mountain in which it is located. It was
formerly owned by Castro and Don Manuel
Salida, and afterwards by Dr. W. J. Hill, of
Alamos, who sold one-half of his interest,
some few months since, for $12,000. Messrs.
J. S. Garwood, E. D. Wheeler, Michael Gray
and others, of San Francisco, were the fortu-
nate purchasers. The last owner of this
mine, Don Manuel Salida, took from it more
than a million of dollars ; and at the time of
his death gave orders to blow the mine up,
which was accordingly carried into effect by
his peons. The writer visited the mine in
company with Dr. Hill ; but on account of
its dilapidated condition, could not explore
it. At a depth of seventy feet is a chamber
180 SONORA.
twenty feet in diameter and twenty-five feet
high, the walls of which, impregnated with
virgin silver, glittered like diamonds by the
light of a solitary candle.
In working the mines of this district, it is
not unusual to discover spots of exceeding
richness — called by the Mexicans "bonan-
zas " — and from one of these from two to
three hundred thousand dollars are fre-
quently extracted.
The San Jose mine is situated six miles
from Alamos, at the locality called " Minas
Nuevas," and is owned by W. J. Hill and
E. B. Johnson, who are now getting up ma-
chinery for the purpose of working it. Tra-
dition speaks of it as exceedingly rich.
Many other mines might be mentioned in
the district of Alamos but little, if any, infe-
rior to the foregoing.
The number and wealth of these mines;
their neighborhood to a large stream — the
Mayo — the abundance of timber in that vi-
cinity, and the freedom from the incursions
APPENDIX. 181
of the hostile tribes; the cheapness and
abundance of labor, and the facilities for
transportation to the coast, combine to ren-
der the district of Alamos one of the most
desirable locations for mining purposes in
the whole world.
WM. T. EOBINSON.
PROVISIONS
RELATIVE TO THE DISCOVERY OR DENOUNCEMENT
OF MINES IN MEXICO. FROM THE " ORDENANZAS
DE TIERRAS Y AGUAS."
MINES may be acquired by discovery or
denouncement.
The discoverer of mineral lands hitherto
unknown, may hold three claims of the di-
mensions prescribed by law ; and he who
discovers a new vein in a mineral hill already
known, may hold two such claims, being
obliged to designate the same within ten
days; but he who finds a new mine in a
vein already known, shall not be considered
a discoverer.
Denouncement may take effect with re*
spect to mines that have been deserted or
abandoned, or whose proprietors have failed
to fulfill the conditions prescribed by the
184 SONORA.
ordinances. No person can denounce two
adjoining mines in the same vein ; but he
may hold one by denouncement and the
other by purchase or other lawful title.
Ecclesiastics, regular or secular, of either
sex, cannot acquire mines ; neither can the
judges or notaries of any mining district
within their own jurisdiction — though they
may in any other department — nor can the
managers or other employes of the owners
of a mine hold any other within a thousand
varas from the first, although they may de-
nounce it for their employers.
Formerly, foreigners could not acquire
mines within the Republic ; but permission
to this effect has since been granted, by the
decree of March 14th, 1842*
Veins or mines may be discovered or de-
nounced, not only on vacant and common
lands, but on those belonging to private per-
sons; the discoverer or denouncer being
"This decree is to be found in the " Febrero Mexicano," edition
of four volumes, vol. I, page 17.
APPENDIX. 185
obliged to pay for the surface of the land
that he occupies., and for any damage that
may result from his labors, the amount to
be fixed by experts appointed for the pur-
pose. But if any person shall denounce a
mine within a town or settlement, the work-
ing of which might cause damage to the
public buildings, or other prejudice, the de-
nouncement shall not take effect without the
consent of the local authorities.
Whoever discovers a mine shall present
himself to the mining tribunal or directive
"junta " of that district, setting forth in writ-
ing his birth-place, residence, profession and
occupation, and the peculiar characteristics
of the place, hill or vein that he solicits ; all
which circumstances, with the time of the
application, shall be duly registered by the
Notary in the proper book, and a copy
thereof delivered to the discoverer for his
protection, and notices shall be posted in
public places for the information of the
neighborhood.
186 SONORA.
Within the term of ninety days, the dis-
coverer must open a shaft upon the vein or
veins recorded, one vara and a half in diam-
eter at the top and ten varas in depth ; which
having been done, one, at least, of the mem-
bers of the "junta," accompanied by a no-
tary (or in default thereof, two assisting wit-
nesses) and an expert skilled in mining, shall
visit the place in person to inspect the course
and direction of the vein, its breadth and
other particulars ; taking an exact account of
all these, that it may be added to the record.
Possession shall then be given to the dis-
coverer, in the name of the nation; his
claim shall be measured off, and stakes
placed at the boundaries thereof, and a cer-
tified copy of all the proceedings, which shall
serve as proofs of title, be delivered to him.
If within the aforesaid term of ninety
days, any other person shall claim a right to
the said discovery, the case shall be heard
and decided in favor of him who adduces
the best proofs ; but if said claim shall be
APPENDIX.
made after the expiration of ninety d*r
shall not be entertained.
Whenever the question arises as to who
was the discoverer of any mine, he shall be
considered as such who first found metal
therein, although others may have pros-
pected it; and in case of doubt upon this
point, judgment shall be given in favor of
him whose name first appears on the record.
He who denounces a mine as deserted
and abandoned, must make application in
writing in the same manner as a discoverer :
setting forth the location of the mine, its
last possessor — if known — and those of the
adjacent mines, if they are occupied — all of
whom shall be duly cited to appear. If they
do not appear within ten days, the denounce-'
ment shall be publicly proclaimed upon the
three following Sundays; and there being
no opposition thereto, notice shall be given
to the denouncer to open within sixty days
an excavation upon the vein of at least ten
varas in depth, which shall be examined and
188 SONORA.
inspected by an expert duly qualified. The
said expert shall also examine the condition
of the different works of the mine, making
an exact statement of everything, and entry
thereof in the proper book of records of
denouncements. This report having been
made, and the claims measured off, posses-
sion shall be given to the denouncer not-
withstanding opposition, unless such opposi-
tion has been set up within the term pre-
scribed by law, in which case the matter
shall be tried between the parties. If the
former owner of the mine should appear,
and oppose the denouncement, after the ex-
piration of the term of proclamation, and
while the denouncer is making use of the
'sixty days allowed him for sinking a shaft,
the said owner shall not be heard as to the
possession of the mine, but only as to the
property thereof; and if this should be de-
cided in his favor, he shall satisfy the de-
nouncer for the expenses he has incurred:
provided, that the latter has not acted in bad
APPENDIX. 189
faith, in which case he is entitled to no com-
pensation. If the denouncer should not
complete the shaft or work required, or
take possession within sixty days, he shall
lose his right, and any other person may
denounce the mine ; but if the denouncer
be prevented by any insuperable obstacle
from fulfilling his duties, he shall apply to
the tribunal, soliciting that in consideration
of the circumstances it may grant a suffi-
cient extension of the time, during which
no opposition shall be entertained, any more
than in the previous term of sixty days.
Where any person denounces a mine as
abandoned on account of the nonobservance
of any of the ordinances that prescribe this
penalty, the denouncement shall always be
granted upon good and lawful proof of the
matter alleged.
Lastly : it is to be observed that no one
can denounce a mine for another person
without having his power of attorney or
letter of authority ; neither can any one
190
SONORA.
denounce a mine for himself alone, being a
member of a company formed prior to the
denouncement; it being his duty to mention
the names of his companions in the applica-
tion made by him, under the penalty of for-
feiture of his own interest.
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