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121  972 


SOUTH   AMERICAN 
TOUR 


BY 


ANNIE  S.  PECK,  M.A. 

Author  of  "A  Search  for  the  Apex  of  America" 


ILLUSTRATED    CHIEFLY    FROM 
PHOTOGRAPHS  BY  THE  A  UTHOR 


NEW  YORK 
GEORGE  H.  DORAN  COMPANY 

Publishers  m  America  for  Hadder  <$•  Stoughton 


INTRODUCTION 

I  congratulate  Miss  Annie  S.  Peck,  the  publisher  of  this 
book,  and  those  who  consult  or  read  it,  upon  the  preparation 
of  a  work  of  this  character.  Interest  in  Latin  America  is  now 
so  rapidly  growing  throughout  all  the  world,  and  especially 
in  the  United  States,  that  a  descriptive  guide-book  of  this  kind 
regarding  the  regions  commonly  visited  by  tourists  has  become 
an  actual  need;  such  a  work  by  Miss  Peck  is  a  practical 
and  timely  contribution  to  the  literature  of  the  day.  There 
are  few  persons  better  qualified  to  write  a  book  of  this  charac- 
ter. The  remarkable  explorations  which  Miss  Peck  has  un- 
dertaken in  the  most  difficult  sections  of  Latin  America,  and 
the  traveling  she  has  done  in  all  parts  of  it,  not  only  have 
provided  her  with  a  vast  fund  of  useful  information  about  the 
countries  of  South  America  but  give  especial  authority  to 
what  she  writes.  Her  book  contains  in  compact  form  an 
amount  of  definite  information  concerning  the  countries  con- 
sidered, which  should  place  it  in  the  forefront  of  works  of 
this  character. 

While,  of  course,  it  is  impossible  for  the  Pan  American 
Union,  as  an  official  organization,  and  myself,  as  its  official 
head,  to  endorse  in  any  way  a  particular  book  or  accept  re- 
sponsibility for  the  statements  and  views  it  contains,  it  gives 
me  real  pleasure,  from  a  personal  standpoint,  to  express  the 
hope  that  this  work  of  Miss  Peck  will  have  a  wide  circulation 
and  prove  of  decided  help  in  promoting  travel  to  and  through 
the  Latin  American  countries. 

The  Pan  American  Union,  which,  as  readers  of  this  book 
probably  know,  is  the  office  of  all  the  American  republics — the 
United  States  and  its  twenty  sister  Latin  American  countries 
— organized  and  maintained  by  them  for  the  purpose  of 
(developing  commerce,  friendship,  better  acquaintance,  and 
peace  among  them  all,  is  doing  everything  possible  and  legiti- 
mate to  persuade  the  traveling  public  of  the  United  States 
and  Europe  to  visit  the  Latin  American,  countries  and  become 
familiar  with  their  progress  and  development.  There  is  no 


vi  INTRODUCTION 

influence  in  the  world  that  helps  more  to  advance  friendship, 
comity,  and  commerce  among  countries  than  travel  back  and 
forth  of  their  representative  men  and  women.  Nearly  every 
person  who  visits  Latin  America  under  the  advice  of  the  Pan 
American  Union,  upon  his  or  her  return,  writes  a  letter  ex- 
pressing appreciation  that  this  opportunity  has  been  afforded 
of  seeing  these  wonderful  countries  of  the  south. 

In  conclusion,  I  would  observe  that  if  those  who  may  be- 
come interested  in  Latin  America  through  reading  Miss  Peck's 
book  desire  further  information  about  any  or  all  of  these  re- 
publics, the  Pan  American  Union  will  always  be  glad  to  pro- 
vide them  with  such  data  as  it  may  have  for  distribution. 

JOHN  BARRETT, 
Director  General  of  the  Pan  American  Union. 

Washington,  D.  C.,  U.  S.  A., 
October,  21, 1913. 


FOR  EVERY  ONE 

To  ALL  Americans  both  of  the  Northland  and  of  the  South 
this  book  with  due  modesty  is  inscribed,  in  the  hope  that  by 
inciting  to  travel  and  acquaintance  it  may  promote  commer- 
cial intercourse,  with  the  resulting  ties  of  mutual  benefit  and 
respect:  in  the  hope,  too,  that  the  slender  cord  now  feebly 
entwining  the  various  Eepublics  may  soon  draw  them  all  into 
more  intimate  relations  of  friendship ;  at  last  into  a  harmoni- 
ous Sisterhood,  in  which  neither  age  nor  size  shall  confer 
superior  rights,  but  mutual  confidence  based  upon  the  foun- 
dations of  justice  shall  insure  perpetual  peace. 

The  opportunity  is  here  improved  to  express  my  grateful 
acknowledgment  of  kindly  assistance  and  attentions  of  di- 
verse character,  received  throughout  my  travels  from  many 
of  my  own  countrymen,  from  Englishmen  invariably  inter- 
ested 'and  ready  to  aid,  and  from  the  ever  courteous  and 
helpful  Latin  Americans:  officials  and  private  individuals, 
with  members  of  my  own  sex.  As  a  complete  list  of  these 
would  be  too  long  I  permit  myself  the  mention  of  those  only 
who  are  entitled  to  especial  recognition,  our  Minister  to  Bo- 
livia, 1910-1913,  the  Honorable  Horace  G.  Knowles,  and  the 
Governments  of  Bolivia,  Chile,  and  Argentina,  without  whose 
prompt  and  substantial  aid  this  work  would  have  been  impos- 
sible. That  its  usefulness  may  be  such  as  to  convey  to  them 
a  valid  return  is  my  earnest  aspiration. 

The  indulgence  of  critics  and  of  tourists  is  sought  for  er- 
rors (few,  I  trust)  and  deficiencies  which  may  be  discovered. 
These  and  other  faults  will  have  crept  in  on  account  of  a  prep- 
aration somewhat  hurried  that  the  book  might  earlier  be  of 
service,  and  from  the  impossibility  of  securing  on  some  points 
exact  and  adequate  information,  in  spite  of  diligent  investi- 
gation and  careful  scrutiny  of  facts  and  figures. 

Many  items  of  interest  and  importance  have  been  omitted 
lest  the  book  should  be  too  long.  The  selection  of  material  it 

vii 


viii  FOB  EVERY  ONE 

is  hoped  will  be  suitable  to  the  general  reader,  though  doubt- 
less every  one  will  find  topics  presented  to  which  he  is  indif- 
ferent and  others  neglected  which  appear  to  him  of  greater 
consequence. 

Hours  have  been  spent  in  searching  for  the  best  authority 
as  to  widely  different  figures  and  even  as  to  varying  accents 
and  spelling.  In  the  absence  of  other  information  a  few 
statements  have  with  some  trepidation  been  copied  from  au- 
thors whose  recognized  blunders  have  made  their  unverified 
observations  appear  questionable. 

While  a  different  statement  made  by  some  other,  albeit 
notable  writer  cannot  be  taken  as  conclusive  evidence  of  error, 
any  just  criticism  or  suggestion  presented  to  the  author  will 
be  gratefully  received  and  considered  with  a  view  to  incorpo- 
rating it  in  a  subsequent  edition. 


CONTENTS 

OHAPTEB  PAGE 

I    WHAT  THE  TOUB  Is — How  AND  WHEN  TO  Go — WHAT  IT 

COSTS 1 

II  THE  VOYAGE  TO  PANAMA .  6 

III  THE  ISTHMUS — THE  CANAL — COLON 12 

IV  COLON  TO  PANAMA — PANAMA  CITY 23 

V  STEAMSHIP  LINES  ON  THE  WEST  COAST — ECUADOR    .     .  36 

VI  ON  THE  WAY  TO  CALLAO 43 

VII  SALAVEBRY,  CHAN  CHAN,  CHIMBOTE,  THE  HTJAILAS  VALLEY  50 

VIII  CALLAO  TO  LIMA— HISTORY 59 

IX  LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS 66 

X    THE  SUBURBS  OF  LIMA— THE  OBOYA  RAILWAY— CEBBO  DE 

PASCO 86 

XI  THE  SOUTHERN  RAILWAY  or  PERU,  ABEQTJTPA  ....  99 

XII  THE  SOUTHERN  RAILWAY — Cuzco 109 

XIII  BOLIVIA — Cuzco  TO  LA  PAZ 123 

XIV  THE  CITY  OF  LA  PAZ 133 

XV  OTHEB  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA  AND  ROUTES  TO  THE  SEA  .     .  142 

XVI  ALONG  THE  CHILIAN  COAST,  ABICA  TO  VALPARAISO    .     .154 

XVII  VALPABAISO 163 

XVIII  SANTIAGO 170 

XIX  SANTIAGO — CONTINUED 179 

XX  SOUTHERN  CHILE — SANTIAGO  TO  BUENOS  AIRES  BY  SEA   .  191 

XXI  AOBOSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MENDOZA 198 

XXII  ARGENTINA — ACROSS  THE  PLAINS  TO  BUEWOS  AIRES  .     .213 

XXIII  BUENOS  AIBESS 222 

XXIV  BUENOS  AIRES— CONTINUED 238 

XXV    A  SIDE  TRIP  TO  IGUASSU  PALLS  AND  TO  PARAGUAY,  IN- 

OLUDING  IMPORTANT  ARGENTINE  CITIES     ....  257 

ix 


x  CONTENTS 

CHAPTEB  PAGE 

XXVI    URUGUAY 272 

XXVII  BBAZJL— ALONG  THE  COAST  TO  SANTOS 286 

XXVIII  SANTOS  AND  S£o  PAULO 295 

XXIX  Rio  DE  JANEIRO—BAY  AND  CITY 300 

XXX  Rio  DE  JANEIRO—CONTINUED  321 

XXXI  Rio  DE  JANEIBO — CONCLUDED  330 

XXXII  NORTHERN  BRAZIL— HOMEWABD 341 

XXXIII  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE 360 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

NOBTH  PEAK  or  MT.  HUASCABAN,  21,812  FEET Frontispiece 

MT.  HUASCAEAN  FROM  AN  ALTITUDE  OF  10,000  FEET 56 

LLANGANUCO  GORGE  56 

OATT.AO  HABBOB  ;  RECEIVING  SECRETARY  ROOT 66 

PLAZA  DE  ARMAS,  CATHEDRAL 66 

POBTALES    AND     MUNICIPAL    BUILDING , 70 

CALLE  JUNIN,   INAUGUBATION  OP  PRESIDENT  LEGUIA 70 

PASEO  COLON  AND  EXPOSITION  PALACE 78 

IN  THE  MUSEUM,  EXPOSITION  PALACE 78 

STATUE  OF  BOLIVAR,  PLAZA  DE  LA  INQUISICION 82 

PEBUVIAN  MUMMY,  UNIVERSITY  OF  SAN  MARCOS 82 

ON  THE  OBOYA  RAILWAY 94 

PLAZA,  CERRO  DE  PASCO 96 

NEAR  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  AMAZON  (MARAN'ON) 96 

ON  THE  SOUTHERN  RAILWAY  OF  PERU 102 

RELIGIOUS  PROCESSION,  EL  MISTI  AT  THE  RIGHT 102 

CATHEDRAL,   PLAZA  MATEIZ ^ 116 

ANCIENT  WALL 116 

BALSAS,  LAKE  TITICACA 128 

LA  PAZ  FROM  THE  HlLLS 128 

CATHEDRAL  AND  GOVERNMENT  PALACE.  ..'. 134 

HALL  OF  CONGRESS,  MONUMENT  TO  MURILLO 134 

STREET  NEAR  THE  MARKET 138 

IN  THE  CEMETERY  OF  LA  PAZ 138 

MONOLITHIC  GATEWAY,  TIAHUANACO 142 

INDIANS  AT  FESTIVAL,  TIAHUANACO 142 

MT.  ILLAMPU,  21,750  FEET,  FROM  THE  PLATEAU,  13,000  FEET 146 

SOBATA  TOWN  146 

INDIANS  TRANSPORTING  FBEIGHT 150 

PI.AZA  AND  GOVERNMENT  PALACE,  OBUBO 150 

VALPARAISO  HABBOB  164 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

MONUMENT  TO  ARTURO  PRAT,  PLAZA  INDEPENDENCE 164 

AVENIDA  BRAZIL,  WITH  BRITISH  MONUMENT 168 

RESIDENCE,  VINA  DEL  MAR 168 

NEW  HALL  OF  CONGRESS,  LIBRARY  AT  THE  LEFT 174 

PALACE  OF  FINE  ARTS 180 

ENTRANCE  TO  PARQUE  SANTA  LUCIA 180 

PALACIO  DE  LA  MONEDA , 186 

CEMETERY  IN  ROSE  TIME 186 

TlERRA  DEL  FXJEGO *  .  .  196 

ENTRANCE  TO  ANDINE  TUNNEL,  CHILIAN  SIDE 196 

AVENIDA  DE  MAYO , .  224 

THE  CAPITOL  PLAZA,  BUENOS  AIRES 230 

PALERMO  PARK   230 

JOCKEY  CLUB  STAND,  HIPPODROME , 236 

CENTENNIAL  EXPOSITION,  RURAL  SOCIETY ' 236 

BOTANICAL  GARDEN 240 

ZOOLOGICAL  GARDEN,  HOUSE  OF  ZEBUS 240 

PATIO  IN  NEW  HALL  OF  JUSTICE 246 

COLON  THEATRE   246 

TOMB,  RECOLETA  CEMETERY 248 

RECOLETA  PARK ".....  248 

MERCADO  DE  FRUTOS  AND  RIACHUELO 250 

BUILDING  OF  PUBLIC  SCHOOL  SARMIENTO 250 

PASEO  COLON,  GRAIN  ELEVATORS  IN  THE  DISTANCE. 252 

DARSENA  NORD  AND  MARINE  SHOPS 252 

ON  THE  RIVER  TIGRE.  . , 254 

LEGISLATIVE  BUILDING,  LA  PLATA.  . . , 254 

UNIVERSITY  BUILDING,  LA  PLATA 256 

MUSEUM,  LA  PLATA 256 

A  FRACTION  OF  THE  IGUASSU  FALLS 260 

JUDICIARY  BUILDING,  ROSARIO 264 

RESIDENCE  ON  AN  ARGENTINE  ESTANCIA 264 

GOVERNMENT  PALACE,  ASUNCION 268 

NEW  LEGISLATIVE  PALACE,  MONTEVIDEO.  .f 276 

SOLIS  THEATRE   280 

GOVERNMENT  PALACE  280 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

POET  OF  SANTOS 296 

Luz  STATION,  SAO  PATTLO 300 

MUNICIPAL  THEATBE 300 

YPIBANGA  MUSETTM   302 

HOTEL  OF  IMMIGRANTS,  SAO  PAULO 302 

COFFEE  FAZENDA  304 

COFFEE  TREE 304 

AVENIDA  DE  RlO  BRANCO 314 

BOULEVARD  BEIRA  MAR  FROM  PENSAO  SUISSA 314 

NATIONAL  LIBRARY  322 

SCHOOL  OF  FINE  ARTS ' 322 

AVENIDA  DO  MANGUE 326 

RESIDENCE  OF  THE  PRESIDENT 332 

BOTANICAL  GARDEN  332 

CORCOVADO  FROM  THE  BOULEVARD  BEIRA  MAR 336 

THROUGH  THE  CLOUDS,  FROM  CORCOVADO 336 

UNITED  STATES  EMBASSY,  PETROPOLIS 340 

STREET  WITH  RIVER 340 

PRAgA  DE  FREI  CAETANO  BRANDAO,  PARA 354 

BAHIA   354 


ACKNOWLEDGMENT 

Miss  Peck's  photograph  of  Mt.  Huascardn, 
page  56,  is  used  by  permission  of  Harper 
&  Brothers  (copyright  1906),  and  through 
the  courtesy  of  the  Pan  American  Union 
eight  illustrations  were  selected  from  Pan 
American  Bulletin. 


1  '  v;  ''':>  >"'1|i'-;i'Vr'*:!?'/1'tll'>tvi'V't*     ''"''' "'  '•';' 
&       !    .  ',!-.' *;  ,.";1'iriil/:!'!^;i^I'T,1!iJll'i\  's    -"•  ^' ''''  ;'  V"" 


NOKTH    PEAK    OP    MT.    IIUASCARAN,    21,812    FT. 

THIS    PEAK,   ASCENDED    BY    MISS    PECK,    SEPTEMBER    2,    1908,    IS    1,500 
FEET    HIGHER  THAN    MT,    MCK1NLEY. 


THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 


FOREWORD 

The  South  American  Tour!  "Gomo  no?"  "Why  not?" 
as  many  Spanish  Americans  say  when  they  wish  to  give 
hearty  assent.  Have  you  been  around  the  world?  Do  you 
travel  for  pleasure  or  business?  "Whatever  your  object, 
whether  your  purse  is  full  or  you  wish  to  fill  it,  the  south- 
ern half  of  our  hemisphere  is  a  land  which  should  not  be 
ignored. 

What  is  there  to  see  ?  May  the  journey  be  taken  in  comfort  ? 
These  things  shall  be  revealed  in  detail  after  a  few  general 
facts  have  been  presented. 

Is  the  enjoyment  of  scenery  the  chief  aim  of  your  travel? 
"With  ease  you  may  behold  some  of  the  finest  in  the  world, — 
much  more  if  you  care  to  take  a  little  trouble:  snow  clad 
mountains  galore  rising  above  20,000  feet,  dwarfing  the 
Alps  into  insignificance,  giants  to  be  admired  not  only 
from  afar  as  tourists  in  India  gaze  upon  the  Himalayas,  but 
from  nearer  points,  even  from  their  very  foot;  smoking  vol- 
canoes, cliffs  more  lofty  than  those  of  the  Tosemite,  wonder- 
ful lake  scenery  including  the  highest  sheet  of  water  (12,500 
feet)  where  steamboats  ply;  strange  yet  fascinating  deserts; 
wondrous  waterfalls,  one  of  these  surpassing  Niagara  in 
height,  volume,  and  beauty;  magnificent  tropical  vegetation 
and  forests,  the  highest  railroads,  the  most  picturesque  and 
beautiful  harbor  of  the  world.  All  of  these,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  great  cataract,  are  easily  accessible,  and  form  a 
combination  of  scenic  attractions  unsurpassed  in  any  portion 
of  the  globe. 

Do  strange  people  and  cities  interest  you  more  ?  You  may 
wander  in  towns  old  and  quaint,  containing  buildings  of  cen- 
turies past,  and  in  cities  quite  up  to  date  growing  with  the 
rapidity  of  our  own.  In  a  few  places  Indians  in  peculiar  garb 
may  be  seen  by  the  side  of  Paris  gowns  and  English  mas- 
culine attire,  in  others  an  Indian  with  sandals,  hood,  and 
poncho  would  attract  as  much  attention  as  on  Broadway. 


FOREWORD 

Several  cities  have  "boulevards,  parks,  and  opera  houses  finei 
than  any  of  which  North  America  can  boast. 

Do  you  care  for  ruins,  antiquities?  These  also  abound, 
Whole  cities  of  the  dead  are  there,  and  others  where  the  new 
civilization  rises  above  or  by  the  side  of  the  old.  Temples, 
palaces,  fortifications,  ancient  statues,  mummies,  and  pottery 
may  be  cursorily  admired  or  profoundly  studied,  and  search 
may  still  be  made  for  undiscovered  monuments  of  a  pre- 
historic past. 

These  countries  rapidly  advancing,  with  astonishing  mineral 
and  agricultural  resources  awaiting  development,  with  rail- 
roads to  be  laid,  with  fast  growing  markets  for  almost  every 
kind  of  merchandise,  invite  the  trader  and  the  capitalist  to 
investigate  hitherto  neglected  opportunities  before  it  is  too 
late. 

Well  informed  as  to  what  there  is  to  see,  the  possible  tour- 
ist is  certain  to  inquire  if  the  journey  will  be  comfortable. 
Perhaps,  indeed,  the  order  of  the  questions  should  be  reversed ; 
for  few,  I  greatly  fear,  would  be  tempted  to  say  "Let  us  go  I" 
if  the  tour  involved  any  hardship.  Happily  this  is  not  the 
case.  Though  the  Imperator,  the  Mauretania,  and  the  Olymr 
pic  do  not  yet  sail  in  that  direction,  the  names  of  several  steam- 
ship lines  which  serve  the  traveler  to  Panama,  or  Buenos 
Aires  are  a  guarantee  of  comfort  and  of  sufficient  luxury. 
The  steamers  elsewhere  are  commodious,  having  for  the  most 
part  state  rooms  provided  with  electric  fans,  and  satisfying 
all  reasonable  requirements.  The  railroads  in  the  various 
countries  have  the  usual  equipment.  The  hotels,  if  one  does 
not  depart  from  the  ordinary  line  of  travel,  will  in  general 
be  found  satisfactory,  providing  excellent  food,  good  beds,  etc., 
and  in  those  cities  where  some  little  time  should  be  spent 
meeting  the  wants  of  all  except  the  ultra  fastidious  tourist. 

If  we  do  not  sympathize  with  the  cry  "See  America  first," 
bearing  in  mind  that  America  is  the  whole  and  not  a  fraction 
of  the  Western  Continent,  at  least,  when  we  have  seen  the 
Old  World,  instead  of  ever  retracing  our  steps  in  familiar 
ways,  let  us  seek  the  strange  New  World  beyond  the  equator 
where  a  brief  tour  will  reveal  a  multitude  of  scenes  amazing 
and  delightful,  even  to  the  experienced  traveler. 


THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN 
TOUR 


CHAPTEE  1 

WHAT  THE  TOUR  IS— HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  GO— 
WHAT  IT  COSTS 

The  South  American  Tour,  rapidly  becoming  fashionable 
and  popular,  and  about  to  be  described,  includes  the  most  in- 
teresting and  accessible  portions  of  that  continent, — its  finest 
scenery,  its  greatest  cities.  A  wonderful  variety  in  the  swiftly 
moving  pictures  prevents  any  dullness  on  the  part  of  the  intel- 
ligent traveler,  who  is  ever  kept  alert  for  the  continually 
fresh  experiences  of  this  remarkable  journey. 

Where.  My  tourist  party  will  be  conducted  first  to  Panama, 
where  soon  the  sail  from  ocean  to  ocean  through  an  immense 
artificial  channel  will  awaken  sensations  of  wonder  and  pride. 
The  opportunity  then  to  continue  in  the  same  vessel  along 
the  West  Coast  of  South  America,  invaluable  for  commerce 
and  for  those  on  business  bent,  may  prove  a  disadvantage  to 
the  pleasure  traveler,  by  tempting  him  to  pass  with  a  mere 
glance  the  City  of  Panama  and  other  spots  worthy  of  observa- 
tion. 

On  the  Pacific  side  Peru,  Bolivia,  and  Chile  will  be  visited 
by  every  one:  a  few  may  make  the  side  trip  to  Ecuador, — 
Guayaquil  and  Quito,  In  order  to  return  along  the  East 
Coast  one  may  complete  the  circuit  of  the  continent  by  sail- 
ing down,  through  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  past  Punta 
Arenas,  and  up  on  this  side,  or  with  the  greater  number  may 
cross  the  Andes  by  rail,  thus  to  reach  the  metropolis  of  South 
America,  Buenos  Aires.  Thence,  after,  or  if  not  including, 
an  excursion  to  Paraguay  and  to  the  greatest  of  American 
waterfalls,  the  Iguassu,  one  may  sail  to  Montevideo  in  Uruguay 

1 


2  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUK 

from  there  to  Brazil,  returning  from  Rio  de  Janeiro  directly 
to  New  York,  or  by  way  of  Europe  as  preferred.  Similarly 
the  trip  may  be  made  from  Europe  by  several  lines  of  steamers 
direct  to  Panama,  or  more  quickly  by  way  of  New  York,  with 
a  return  from  Rio. 

Altogether  omitted  from  this  itinerary  are  the  countries 
on  the  northern  shore  of  South  America.  Of  these  Colombia 
and  Venezuela  are  better  included  in  a  West  India  trip. 
The  Guianas  by  ordinary  tourists  are  neglected. 

Obviously  the  journey  may  be  made  in  either  direction: 
as  above,  or  in  reverse  order;  but  unless  the  season  of  the 
year  invites  a  change  the  former  sequence  should  by  all 
means  be  followed.  Thus  taken  the  journey  is  one  of  ever 
increasing  interest,  until  its  culmination  in  the  delightful 
harbor  and  city  of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  Not  that  Peru  is  in- 
ferior to  Bolivia  and  Chile,  or  Buenos  Aires  to  Rio,  let  me 
hasten  to  add ;  each  has  its  own  peculiar  charm ;  but  one  who 
begins  with  the  West  Coast  will  find  the  entire  journey  far 
more  enjoyable  and  impressive. 

When  one  should  go  depends  more  upon  when  one  wishes 
to  leave  home  than  upon  the  conditions  prevailing  in  South 
America;  also  upon  one's  individual  taste  as  to  temperature. 
In  brief,  one  may  safely  make  the  trip  whenever  it  suits  his 
convenience.  Bearing  in  mind  what  so  many  seem  to  for- 
get, that  the  seasons  are  reversed  in  the  northern  and  southern 
hemispheres,  one  may  leave  home  to  escape  either  heat  or 
cold,  or  to  avoid  March  winds,  as  he  may  elect.  In  none  of 
the  countries  to  be  visited  is  the  variation  between  winter  and 
summer  so  great  as  in  the  latitude  of  New  York,  nor  is  the 
tropical  heat  anywhere  on  the  journey  so  intense  as  that  on 
many  days  of  every  summer  here. 

Leaving  the  United  States  on  a  four  months'  tour  at  any 
time  between  the  middle  of  November  and  the  last  of  August, 
I  strongly  advise  one  to  visit  the  West  Coast  first.  During 
the  remaining  three  months,  one  who  dislikes  hot  weather 
might  better  begin  with  Brazil.  In  December,  January,  and 
February,  the  mercury  at  Rio  is  mostly  in  the  eighties, 
In  January  I  found  it  comfortable  enough  for  summer 
weather,  but  I  needed  the  ten  degrees  lower  temperature  of  an 
earlier  or  a  later  season  to  make  my  visit  absolutely  ideal. 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  GO  3 

With,  a  delightful  climate  during  nine  months  of  the  year,  the 
city  at  any  time  is  perfectly  healthy;  since  the  yellow  fever, 
formerly  a  dreaded  scourge,  was  stamped  out  at  Eio  during 
the  same  period  that  this  was  accomplished  in  Panama. 

Buenos  Aires  also  may  be  more  advantageously  visited  dur- 
ing the  cooler  weather,  both  because  the  opera  and  social 
festivities  are  then  in  full  swing,  and  because  one  is  likely  to 
be  more  energetic  for  sight-seeing,  of  which  there  is  much  to 
be  done.  In  Peru  and  Bolivia,  on  the  usual  route  of  travel  it 
is  never  hot  enough  to  be  troublesome.  Chile,  in  the  central 
and  most  visited  portion,  is  a  trifle  less  agreeable  during  the 
southern  summer  than  in  spring  or  fall,  especially  on  account 
of  the  dust,  but  this  matters  little  for  a  brief  stay. 

Four  months  should  be  allowed  for  the  trip.  A  couple 
who  made  it  in  three,  though  delighted  with  their  journey, 
mourned  over  the  unavoidable  omissions  and  were  planning 
to  go  again.  Six  months  is  not  too  much;  a  whole  year  could 
be  profitably  employed :  but  in  four  months  or  a  trifle  more, 
one  may  visit  the  most  important  places  and  gain  a  fair  idea 
of  the  various  countries.  The  personally  conducted  parties 
for  three  months  only  are  well  worth  while. 

The  expense  of  the  trip  will  naturally  vary  according  to 
the  time  and  extent  of  the  journey  and  the  economy  or  ex- 
travagance of  the  tourist.  A  round  trip  ticket  from  New 
York  to  New  York,  good  either  by  the  Straits  or  across  the 
Andes,  may  be  purchased  for  $475,  or  including  a  return  by 
way  of  Europe  for  $505.  Additional  expenses  may  be  from 
$500  or  less  to  $1000  or  more  according  to  the  person,  the 
time,  and  the  number  of  side  trips  taken.  By  several  tourist 
agencies  personally  conducted  parties  are  semi-annually  dis- 
patched to  South  America  at  a  cost  varying  from  $1375  for  a 
tour  of  98  or  99t  days  to  $2250  for  146  days.  Also  the  Ham- 
burg-American Line  has  sent  a  ship  around  to  Valparaiso  by 
way  of  the  Straits.  Tickets  $475  to  $3000;  optional  extra 
shore  trips  $300  or  more.  On  the  completion  of  the  Canal 
they  will  probably  have  a  ship  making  the  entire  circuit. 

Persons  who  prefer  to  be  relieved  of  care,  or  who  do  not 
speak  Spanish,  the  language  current  at  all  points  of  the  journey 
save  Brazil,  and  there  understood  by  educated  people,  will 
do  well  to  join  a  party,  especially  if  their  time  is  limited. 


4  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Those  who  can  devote  a  longer  period  to  the  trip  and  who 
like  to  do  their  own  planning  may  see  more  by  themselves  at 
either  greater  or  less  expense.  One  who  speaks  only  English, 
by  keeping  to  the  main  line  of  travel  and  patronizing  the 
leading  hotels,  should  have  no  serious  difficulty;  though  it 
is,  of  course,  an  advantage,  readily  gained  by  one  who  is 
familiar  with  Latin  or  French,  to  have  some  acquaintance  with 
Spanish,  an  easy  and  beautiful  language.  A  bare  smatter- 
ing picked  up  from  a  phrase  book  on  the  voyage  is  better  than 
nothing,  while  a  conversational  knowledge  greatly  enhances 
the  pleasure  and  profit  of  the  journey. 

Baggage.  In  regard  to  baggage,  the  less  taken  the  better, 
both  on  account  of  the  expense  and  because  of  the  care  it 
entails  ,•  yet  it  is  well  to  have  a  fair  supply  of  good  clothes, 
since  evening  dress  is  everywhere  more  strictly  en  regie  than 
in  most  parts  of  the  United  States.  t  The  steamships  are  not 
all  rigid  as  to  the  precise  amount  of  baggage,  though  the 
allowance  on  different  lines  varies  from  150  to  400  Ibs. ;  the 
railroads  are  strict  and  extra  baggage  is  expensive ;  only  100 
Ibs.  are  allowed.  Going  up  to  Bolivia  by  the  Southern  Kail- 
way  of  Peru,  a  heavy  box  or  two  may  cost  as  much  as  the 
ticket.  Many  tourists  take  only  hand  baggage  to  Cuzco  and 
La  Paz,  leaving  on  bo.ard  the  steamer  their  heavy  pieces,  to 
be  reclaimed  later  at  Valparaiso.  On  all  roads,  the  hand 
baggage  goes  free ;  hence  suit  cases,  etc.,  are  much  in  evidence. 

Clothing.  One  needs  a  supply  of  both  light  and  heavy 
weight,  the  proportion  of  each  depending  upon  the  season  of 
the  year.  Always  by  way  of  the  Isthmus  there  are  eight 
or  ten  days  of  summer  weather  en  route,  and  several  weeks 
during  the  East  Coast  journey.  Along  the  seaboard  of  Peru 
and  Chile  woolen  or  heavy  underwear  may  be  desirable  for 
many,  as  on  the  highlands  of  Peru  and  Bolivia;  also  in 
Chile  and  Argentina  during  their  winter  season,  when  a  tem- 
perature in  the  forties  and  fifties  will  be  experienced;  some 
hotels  have  no  fires,  and  the  nights  and  mornings  are  chill. 
On  the  mountain  railways,  as  during  a  portion  of  the  sea 
voyage,  wraps  and  rugs  are  needed  in  addition  to  moderately 
heavy  clothing.  Furs  though  unnecessary  may  be  found 
agreeable  during  the  months  of  winter,  June  to  September. 

Money  may  be  carried  in  letters  of  credit  on  W.  R.  Grace  or 


HOW  AND  WHEN  TO  GO  5 

other  bankers,  or  by  American  Express  or  Travelers'  Cheques, 
together  with  a  moderate  supply  of  gold,  preferably  in  Eng- 
lish sovereigns.  The  English  pound,  being  precisely  the  same 
as  the  Peruvian,  is  interchangeable  with  them ;  in  other  coun- 
tries it  is  more  acceptable  and  convenient  than  American 
gold,  though  in  the  large  cities  either  will  be  readily  ex- 
changed. A  point  to  be  noted  and  remembered  is  that  most 
resident  Americans  and  English,  a  few  natives,  and  travelers 
in  South  America  generally,  speak  of  certain  coins,  soles  or 
pesos,  as^  dollars;  a  poor  custom  which  should  not  be  imitated. 
Since  it  is  prevalent,  one  must  be  on  guard  to  avoid  mistakes. 
In  Panama  a  clerk  or  a  coachman  saying  twenty  cents  or  one 
dollar  means  silver;  L  e.,  10  and  50  cents,  United  States 
currency.  A  man  in  Lima  who  speaks  of  twenty  dollars 
probably  means  soles,  practically  ten  dollars.  In  Bolivia  a 
bolivian  is  about  40  cents,  a,<peso  in  Chile  is  22  cents  more  or 
less,  in  Argentina  44,  in  Uruguay  $1.04;  in  Brazil  a  milreis  is 
33  cents.  All  of  the  countries  divide  their  unit  decimally, 
and  if  it  were  not  for  the  foolish  custom  of  English  speaking 
folk,  there  would  be  no  confusion.  In  this  book  the  words 
dollars  and  cents  and  the  sign  $  will  everywhere  signify 
United  States  currency ;  otherwise  the  names  employed  by  the 
respective  countries  will  be  used,  as  soles,  pesos,  and  centa- 
vo$.  In  connection  with  Brazilian  money  the  sign  $  is  put 
after  the  number;  thus  15  milreis  is  written  15$000. 


CHAPTER  II 
-THE  VOYAGE  TO  PANAMA 

IN  1903,  before  the  United  States'  occupation,  there  was  no 
choice  as  to  means  of  transport  to  the  Isthmus.  A  single 
steamship  company,  that  of  the  Panama  Bailroad,  dispatched 
a  vessel  from  New  York  once  a  week.  Now  there  are  four 
different  lines  with  as  many  weekly  sailings,  besides  one  from 
New  Orleans,  a  more  convenient  point  of  departure  for  many 
south  of  Mason  and  Dixon's  line.  The  four  companies,  all 
with  headquarters  in  New  York,  will  gladly  furnish  the  latest 
information  in  regard  to  their  own  sailing  and  accommoda- 
tions as  on  other  points  in  reference  to  the  tour. 

Fares.  The  lowest  fare  from  New  York  to  Colon,  $75.00, 
to  Panama,  $78.00,  is  the  same  on  all  lines,  better  accom- 
modations being  provided  for  a  supplementary  fee  of  from 
$15.00  up.  It  is  wisdom  to  purchase,  if  not  a  ticket  for  the 
round  trip,  one  as  far  at  least  as  Mollendo,  $191,  as  a 
slight  reduction  is  made  on  through  tickets.  Stop-overs  are 
allowed  at  any  of  the  ports  of  call,  and  on  the  East  or  "West 
Coasts  of  South  America  the  journey  may,  if  more  convenient, 
be  resumed  on  certain  other  lines  of  steamers  without  extra 
charge,  save  for  embarking  or  disembarking  in  the  small  boats. 

The  respective  merits  of  the  four  steamship  lines  to  Panama 
are  a  matter  of  opinion.  On  three  of  these  I  have  enjoyed  the 
voyage,  especially  my  last  in  a  luxurious  suite  on  the  Prin& 
August  Wilhelm  of  the  Atlas  Hamburg- American  Line. 

The  old  PANAMA  COMPANY  claims  that  its  boats  are  provided 
with  all  of  the  comforts  afforded  by  the  others,  including  rooms 
with  private  baths.  It  has  slightly  irregular  sailings,  seven 
a  month,  with  several  steamers  making  the  journey  in  six 
days,  instead  of  the  seven,  eight,  or  nine  occupied  by  ships 
of  the  other  lines.  Those  who  prefer  American  cooking  or 
the  shorter  voyage  will  choose  one  of  these  ships. 

6 


THE  VOYAGE  TO  PANAMA  7 

The  EOYAL  MAIL  and  the  HAMBURG- AMERICAN  lines  are  quite 
similar  to  each,  other  in  service  and  accommodations;  the  boats 
of  the  former  sail  for  Colon  on  alternate  Saturdays,  calling  on 
the  way  at  Antilla,  Cuba,  and  at  Kingston,  Jamaica:  those 
of  the  latter  sail  every  Saturday,  touching  at  Santiago  de 
Cuba  and  Kingston.  The  Royal  Mail  Steamers  are  scheduled 
to  arrive  at  Colon  on  Sunday,  eight  days  from  New  York, 
connecting  with  the  P.  S.  N.  boats  departing  on  Monday  for 
the  south.  But  through  tickets  are  good  by  any  of  the  three" 
lines  on  the  other  side;  and  one  may  delay  on  the  Isthmus 
for  a  few  days  or  weeks  of  sight-seeing.  The  Hamburg- Ameri- 
can steamers  arrive  at  Colon  Monday,  one  week  connecting 
with  a  P.  S.  N.  steamer,  the  next  with  one  of  the  Peruvian 
and  another  of  the  Chilian  Line  sailing  the  same  afternoon. 
No  one,  however,  who  is  making  a  pleasure  trip  should  cross 
the  Isthmus  without  staying  over  a  few  days. 

The  UNITED  FRUIT  COMPANY  boasts  of  a  great  white  fleet 
with  four  sailings  to  Colon  a  week;  two,  on  Wednesday  and 
Saturday,  from  New  York;  and  two  on  the  same  days  from 
New  Orleans.  These  ships,  they  say,  are  the  only  ones  going 
to  Colon  which  were  designed  and  built  especially  for  tropical 
service,  thus  having  all  of  the  latest  devices  for  comfort  as 
well  as  for  safety.  Among  these  are  bilge  keels  and  automatic 
water-tight  compartments.  A  wireless  equipment  as  a  matter 
of  course  the  boats  of  all  lines  carry ;  these  have  also  a  subma- 
rine signal  apparatus,  to  give  warning  of  the  proximity  of  an- 
other vessel,  and,  as  an  especial  feature,  lifeboats  which  with  a 
patent  lever  may  be  swung  off  and  lowered  by  a  single  man. 
By  the  system  of  ventilation  the  temperature  of  the  rooms 
at  night  may  be  kept  down  to  55°  if  desired,  a  boon  to  many 
on  the  muggy  Caribbean;  and  the  electric  lights  have  the 
rare  quality  of  burning  low.  All  of  the  boats  on  the  various 
lines  have  pianos  and  music,  most  of  them  cards,  checkers, 
chess,  and  libraries,  the  United  Fruit  Company  supplying 
the  latest  magazines. 

The  Saturday  steamers  of  this  line  from  New  York  call 
Thursday  at  Kingston,  Jamaica,  where  they  remain  until  two 
p.  m.  Friday.  They  are  due  at  Colon  at  noon  on  Sunday. 
The  Wednesday  steamers  take  a  day  less  for  the  trip;  at 
Kingston  where  they  arrive  on  Monday  they  remain  from  7 


8  THE  SOUTH  AMBEICAN  TOUR 

a.  m.  till  4  p.  m.    The  Isthmus  is  reached  at  1  p.  m.  on 
"Wednesday. 

Via  New  Orleans.  The  opportunity  to  go  by  way  of  New 
Orleans  may  appeal,  especially  in  winter,  to  some  who  have 
not  visited  that  city  and  to  those  who  desire  to  avoid  the  pos- 
sibility of  two  or  three  cold  stormy  days  on  the  sea  before 
entering  the  regions  of  perpetual  summer.  The  steamers  sail 
in  five  days  to  Colon,  the  Saturday  boats  arriving  Thursday 
a.  m.  and  the  Wednesday  boats  Monday  morning. 

The  voyage  to  Panama,  indeed  all  of  the  six  or  seven  weeks 
on  the  sea,  which  are  a  necessary  part  of  this  tour,  will  be 
likely  to  prove  an  agreeable  experience  even  to  those  who 
as  a  rule  do  not  enjoy  the  ocean.  While  the  waters  of  the 
Atlantic  may  at  any  season  be  turbulent  and  tempestuous,  the 
portions  of  both  oceans  which  are  to  be  traversed  are  for  the 
most  part  so  smooth  that  unless  persons  are  determined  to  be 
seasick  whether  they  have  occasion  or  not,  it  is  probable  that 
they  will  suffer  little  or  none  from  this  unpleasant  malady. 
Ordinarily  the  sail  to  Panama,  under  sunny  skies,  over  un- 
ruffled seas,  in  weather,  after  a  day  or  two,  warm  enough  for 
summer  clothing,  is  a  pleasure  unalloyed.  On  the  Caribbean 
it  may  be  a  trifle  muggy  and  sticky,  but  if  favored  with  sun- 
shine the  wonderful  blue  of  the  waters,  deeper  than  that  of  the 
Bay  of  Naples,  affords  solace.  On  some  of  the  ships  a  little 
dance  on  deck,  if  happily  under  a  tropical  moon,  may  be  an 
experience  affording  delightful  memories. 

Watling's  Island.  After  leaving  New  York  harbor  and  the 
adjoining  coast  the  first  land  to  come  within  range  of  vision 
is  that  of  Watling's  Island,  noted  for  a  lighthouse  of  great 
power  and  value.  Otherwise  unimportant,  it  acquires  in- 
terest from  the  fact  that  on  this  shore  Columbus  is  believed 
to  have  made  his  first  landing  in  the  Western  World.  The 
island  is  thus  entitled  to  the  more  pretentious  name,  San 
Salvador,  bestowed  by  the  great  explorer  upon  the  land  where 
first  he  trod  in  devout  thanksgiving,  after  many  weeks  of 
painful  suspense  upon  the  limitless  ocean. 

Fortunate  is  the  traveler  who  towards  sunset  enters  Wind- 
ward Channel,  passing  before  dark  the  desolate  wooded  bluffs 
of  the  eastern  extremity  of  Cuba,  Cape  Maysi,  and  later  hav- 
ing a  look  at  the  southeast  shores  where  rise  sombre,  forest 


THE  VOYAGE  TO  PANAMA  9 

covered  peaks  to  an  imposing  height,  the  loftiest  above  8000 
feet.  From  a  Panama  or  United  Fruit  Company  steamer  no 
more  will  you  see  of  Cuba ;  but  on  a  boat  of  the  Eoyal  Mail 
you  will  already  have  called  at  ANTILLA,  in  the  eastern  section 
of  the  island's  northern  shore,  a  new  and  growing  seaport  on 
Nipe  Bay,  and  the  north  terminus  of  the  Cuban  Eailway. 
Extensive  docking  facilities  have  been  provided,  large  ware- 
houses, immense  tanks  for  molasses,  a  good  hotel:  and  plans 
are  made  for  building  here  a  great  commercial  city. 

Santiago  de  Cuba.  By  the  Hamburg-American  Line  the 
first  call  is  made  on  the  south  side  of  the  island  at  the  more 
famous  and  considerable  city,  Santiago  de  Cuba,  which, 
founded  in  1514,  is. said  to  be  the  oldest  settlement  of  size  in 
the  Western  Hemisphere.  With  a  population  of  50,000, 
among  Cuban  cities  it  comes  next  to  Havana.  It  has  also 
historic  interest.  That  Hernando  Cortez  from  this  port,  Nov. 
18,  1518,  set  out  for  the  bold  conquest  of  the  Aztec  Empire  is 
a  fact  less  widely  known  than  the  more  recent  circumstance 
that  in  this  sheltered  harbor  the  fleet  of  Admiral  Cervera  lay 
concealed,  until  July  3,  1898,  it  sailed  forth  to  its  doom.  In 
the  narrow  portal,  less  than  600  feet  wide,  rests  the  old 
Merrimac,  sunk  by  Lt.  Hobson  and  seven  others,  June  3, 1898. 
On  the  right  of  the  entrance,  crowning  a  bluff  200  feet  high,  is 
the  old  Morro  Castle,  an  ancient  fortress  of  picturesque  ap- 
pearance, begun  soon  after  the  founding  of  the  city  and  pos- 
sessing towers  and  turrets  in  genuine  mediaeval  style.  Six 
miles  farther,  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  on  a  sloping  terrace  with 
steep  hills  behind,  is  the  bright,  gay  city;  though  at  the  noon- 
tide hour  it  may  seem  a  trifle  sleepy  and  dull. 

If  time  permits,  a  drive  on  the  fine  roads  will  be  enjoyed. 
To  the  San  Juan  battlefield  three  miles  distant  and  to  El  Caney 
a  little  farther  the  fare  is  $1.50  for  a  single  person,  $2.00  for 
several.  The  longer  drive  to  Morro  Castle,  fare  $3.50,  affords 
charming  views.  In  the  city  one  proceeds  first  to  the  plaza, 
where  on  one  side  is  the  great  cathedral  called  the  largest 
in  Cuba,  containing  rare  marbles  and  mahogany  choir  stalls. 
On  the  other  sides  are  the  Casa  Grande  Hotel  and  the  Venus 
Eestaurant.  Near  by  is  the  Filarmonia  Theatre  where  the 
famous  diva,  Adalina  Patti,  is  said  to  have  made  her  debut. 
A  few  may  care  to  visit  the  spot  where  the  Captain  and  sail- 


10  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

ors  of  the  Virginius  were  executed  as  filibusters  in  1873,  a 
slaughter  pen  near  the  harbor  front  to  the  east  of  the  Cuba 
Bailway  Station.  An  inscribed  tablet  there  commemorates 
the  sad  event. 

Kingston,  Jamaica,  is  visited  by  all  of  the  steamers  except 
those  of  the  Panama  Line,  the  "Wednesday  boat  of  the  United 
Fruit  Company  having  previously  touched  at  Port  Antonio 
on  the  northeast  end  of  the  same  island ;  the  port,  a  busy  place, 
owing  its  present  prosperity  chiefly  to  our  fondness  for 
bananas.  Captain  Baker  of  Boston  in  1868  began  the  trade 
which  the  United  Fruit  Company  has  developed  to  immense 
proportions.  The  splendid  Hotel  Titchfield  which  the  com- 
pany has  erected  affords  every  facility  for  a  delightful  sum- 
mer outing  during  our  winter  season. 

The  older  and  larger  city  of  Kingston  is  on  the  south  side 
of  the  island,  by  the  excellent  and  far  famed  harbor  of  Port 
Koyal.  The  town  of  that  name,  ancient  rende^ous  of  Morgan 
and  the  buccaneers,  once  stood  on  the  long  sandy  spit  which 
separates  the  bay  from  the  ocean.  But  on  a  day  in  1692  oc- 
curred one  of  those  memorable  tragedies  at  which  the  whole 
world  stands  appalled.  The  earth  was  shaken.  The  city  sank 
beneath  the  sea,  where  it  is  said  that  some  of  the  buildings 
may  yet  be  seen,  when  the  waves  are  still,  deep  down  below 
the  smiling  tranquil  surface.  Kingston,  then  founded  on  the 
main  shore,  recently  suffered  (January  14,  1907),  as  we  well 
remember,  a  similar  though  less  complete  disaster,  being 
merely  shaken  down  instead  of  swallowed  up.  Like  San  Fran- 
cisco it  was  promptly  rebuilt  with  better  architecture.  Quite 
up  to  date  with  electric  cars  and  other  modern  conveniences, 
it  is  an  attractive  place  of  scenic  and  tropical  beauty,  excel- 
lent too  for  shopping.  Interesting  are  the  markets,  the  old 
Parish  Church,  badly  shaken,  but  still  standing;  the  main 
streets,  King  and  Queen,  at  right  angles  to  each  other;  the 
Jamaica  Institute  with  museum  and  library  where  among 
other  historical  curios  may  be  seen  the  famous  Shark  papers, 
in  1799  thrown  overboard,  swallowed  by  a  shark,  but  soon  after 
rescued  from  his  maw,  to  the  discomfiture  of  the  Yankee  cap- 
tain of  the  Nancy 9  an  American  privateer.  In  the  suburbs 
of  the  city  within  easy  reach  is  Kong's  House,  the  fine  res- 
idence of  the  Governor-General.  Worth  visiting  (electric 


THE  VOYAGE  TO  PANAMA  11 

cars)  is  Hope  Gardens,  an  estate  of  220  acres,  with  a  fine  col- 
lection of  indigenous  plants  and  many  exotics.  The  splendid 
roads  over  the  island,  the  possibilities  for  delightful  excur- 
sions,— the  most  enchanting  the  ascent  of  Blue  Mountain, 
7423  feet, — would  tempt  to  a  longer  stay.  But  we  hasten  on- 
ward to  more  distant  and  greater  glories. 

Western  Tourists.  Tourists  living  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  may  prefer  to  sail  from  San  Francisco  or  Los 
Angeles  to  Balboa,  the  port  of  Panamay  at  a  considerable  sav- 
ing of  expense,  though  not  of  time.  Express  steamers  twice 
a  month  make  the  voyage  from  San  Francisco  in  14  days  with 
the  single  call  at  San  Pedro  (Los  Angeles),  fare  $85;  while 
three  times  a  month  there  are  other  boats  which  do  not  stop 
at  San  Pedro,  but  make  eleven  calls  in  Mexico  and  Central 
America,  thus  affording  opportunity  to  see  some  of  those 
ports,  consuming  26  days  on  the  trip.  On  these  steamers  the 
fare  is  $120.  All  these  boats  are  of  the  Pacific  Mail  Steam- 
ship Company.  By  way  of  New  York~the  journey  from  San 
Francisco  to  Panama  may,  with  close  connection,  be  made 
in  10  or  12  days. 

European  Tourists  may  sail  from  Southampton  by  Eoyal 
Mail  steamer  in  18  days  to  Colon,  fare  $125,  or  from  Cher- 
bourg, 17  days,  fare  $100. 

Other  companies  which  have  steamers  sailing  from  Europe 
to  Colon  are  the  Hamburg-American,  four  times  monthly 
from  Havre  and  Hamburg,  the  Leyland  C.  Harrison,  three 
times  a  month  from  Liverpool,  the  Cia.  Generale  Transat- 
lantica,  once  a  month  from  St.  Nazaire  and  once  from  Bor- 
deaux, the  Cia.  Transatlantiea  and  the  Cia.  La  Veloce,  each 
monthly  from  Barcelona  and  Genoa. 


CHAPTER  III 
THE  ISTHMUS— THE  CANAL— COLON 

Two  days  from  Jamaica,  six,  seven,  eight,  or  nine  from 
New  York,  one  arrives  at  Colon,  eager  to  witness  the  wonder- 
ful operations  now  well-nigh  concluded,  or  to  behold  the  fin- 
ished work,  when  great  ships,  no  longer  halting  at  the  At- 
lantic shore,  shall,  through  a  broad  channel  among  green  hills 
and  islands,  sail  onward  to  the  serene  Pacific.  Every  one 
knows  of  the  marvellous  transformation  on  the  Isthmus  dur- 
ing the  last  ten  years,  but  the  most  imaginative  person,  now 
arriving  for  the  first  time,  will  hardly  fancy  what  it  was  like 
in  1903. 

Colon,  once  called  the  most  repulsive,  disagreeable,  filthy 
hole  of  a  place  in  all  Christendom,  though  always  a  pretty 
picture  from  -the  sea,  is  at  present  fair  enough  on  land.  The 
climate  only  remains  unchanged.  It  still  rains — and  rains : 
130  inches  a  year :  not  all  the  time  even  in  the  rainy  season, 
which  it  is  very  apt  to  be,  as  that  continues  eight  months, 
from  the  first  of  May  to  January,  leaving  a  dry  season  of 
only  four.  Even  in  this  period  it  is  liable  to  rain,  so  it  be- 
hoves every  one  to  be  provided  with  raincoat  and  umbrella, 
if  not  with  overshoes.  Everywhere  there  are  good  walks  and 
in  the  towns,  paved  streets,  beyond  which  the  tropical  sun  soon 
dries  the  mud. 

The  agreeableness  of  the  Isthmian  climate  as  a  whole  and 
in  various  localities,  if  to  some  extent  indicated  by  figures,  is 
largely  a  matter  of  individual  temperament.  With  little  dif- 
ference in  temperature  Colon  has  double  the  rainfall  of  Pan- 
ama with  a  corresponding  excess  of  humidity.  Yet  happily 
for  the  welfare  of  the  great  work  and  the  workers,  it  has  been 
the  fashion  on  the  Isthmus  for  every  one  to  have  local  pride ; 
to  like  his  own  station  the  best,  whether  on  either  shore,  or  in 
one  of  the  pleasant  villages  along  the  line.  It  is  genuine 
summer  weather  all  the  year  around;  not  excessive  heat,  like 

12 


THE  ISTHMUS— THE  CANAL— COLON  13 

our  days  in  the  90 's  and  100 's;  but  mostly  in  the  plain  80  's 
by  day,  with  cooler  and  comfortable  nights. 


HISTORICAL 

This  section  of  the  New  World  was  first  visited  in  1501  by  Colum- 
bus, who  touched  at  Nombre  de  Dios  and  Porto  Bello  east  of  Colon, 
perhaps  sailing  into  Limon  Bay;  this  he  certainly  did  in  1502,  nam- 
ing the  place  Puerto  Naos,  Navy  Bay,  as  it  was  called  until  recent 
years.  It  is  just  400  years  ago,  September  25,  1513,  that  Yasco 
Nunez  de  Balboa  first  saw  the  great  Pacific,  then  named  the  South 
Sea, — not,  as  often  said,  from  the  hill  near  Gorgona,  called  Bal- 
boa, more  properly  the  Cerro  Gigante,  but  from  another  120  miles 
east,  as  he  was  crossing  the  San  Bias  country.  Thence  he  con- 
tinued to  the  Bay  San  Miguel  of  Darien.  This  bold  explorer,  like 
many  another,  fared  badly.  He  was  beheaded  a  few  years  later 
at  the  age  of  forty-four.  In  1519  the  site  of  an  Indian  fishing 
village  near  the  farther  shore  was  selected  by  Governor  Pedrarias 
as  that  of  his  future  capital,  and  in  1521,  it  was  made  a  city  by 
royal  decree.  This  was  Old  Panama  which  soon  became  a  place  of 
great  wealth  and  luxury,  as  for  a  century  or  more  the  rich  treas- 
ures of  Peru  passed  by  this  route  to  Old  Spain.  Yet  it  suffered 
many  vicissitudes  from  fires,  buccaneers,  and  insurrections  till  at 
length,  when  its  prosperity  had  already  begun  to  wane  on  account 
of  the  ships  going  by  the  Strait  of  Magellan,  it  was  captured, 
plundered,  and  destroyed,  by  the  freebooter,  Henry  Morgan,  Jan- 
uary 19,  '1671,  never  to  be  rebuilt.  January  21,  1673,  the  new 
city  of  Panama,  about  four  miles  distant,  was  dedicated.  Until 
1821  the  Isthmus  was  under  the  dominion  of  Spain,  and  after  that, 
in  spite  of  numerous  insurrections,  remained  a  part  of  the  country 
of  New  Granada,  later  Colombia,  until  its  sudden  practical  transfer 
to  the  United  States.  On  November  3,  1903,  its  independence  was 
proclaimed,  on  the  sixth  the  infant  Republic  was  recognized  by 
the  United  States,  and  on  February  26,  1904,  a  treaty  with  the 
United  States  was  signed  by  which  it  became  a  Protectorate,  with 
a  position  similar  to  that  of  Cuba. 

As  early  as  1527  an  explorer  from  Panama  city  went  from  the 
Pacific  up  the  Bio  Grande  Valley,  crossed  the  divide  by  Culebra 
and  sailed  down  the  Chagres  River  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Soon 
this  was  a  popular  route, — to  sail  up  the  Chagres  to  a  point  fifteen 
miles  from  Panama  and  continue  by  land  to  that  city.  As  early 
as  1534  the  idea  of  a  canal  occurred  to  that  great  monarch,  Charles 
V,  who  had  a  route  surveyed.  Pronounced  too  expensive  even  for 
his  great  wealth,  the  project  was  abandoned,  but  381  years  later; 


14  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUE 

a  far  greater  canal  than  he  dreamed  of  will  be  opened  in  the  very 
same  track  which  his  surveyors  followed. 

THE  FRENCH  CANAL 

Various  canal  projects  in  the  meanwhile  have  been   cherished, 
though  the  building  of  the  Panama  Railroad,  1850-1855,  had  a  de- 
terrent effect  on  the  enterprise;  but  in  May,  1876,  the  Government 
of  Colombia  made  a  concession  for  the  work  to  a  French  Com- 
pany and  operations  soon  followed.    After  surveys  by  Lieutenant 
Wyse  a  sea-level  canal  from  Lirnon  Bay  to  Panama  by  the  pass  at 
Culebra    (meaning  snake)    was  decided  upon.     January  10,  1881, 
Ferdinand  de  Lesseps,  promoter  of  the  Suez  Canal,  made  the  cere- 
monial beginning  at  the  Pacific  entrance,  and  January  20,  1882, 
the  first  excavation  was  begun  near  the  continental  divide  where, 
in  the  section  called  the  Culebra  Cut,  work  has  proceeded  ever  since 
except  from  1888  to  1891.    The  French  were  badly  handicapped  by 
disease,  Colombian  interference,  incomplete  plans,  and  insufficient 
funds,  and  were  injured  at  home  by  rumors  of  sickness,  extrava- 
gance, etc.    In  1887  the  sea-level  plan  was  transformed  to  a  lock- 
level,  and  February  4,  1889,  the  company  went  into  the  hands  of  a 
receiver.     Several  persons  were  convicted  of  fraud  including  Ferdi- 
nand de  Lesseps,  who,  eighty-six  years  of  age,  was  probably  in  en- 
tire ignorance  of  the  business  details.    He  died  soon  after. 

In  1894  energetic  work  was  recommenced  by  the  new  company 
which  continued  operations  until  the  Americans  took  possession, 
May  4,  1904.  $225,000,000  had  been  spent  upon  the  work  for  which 
the  United  States  paid  $40,000,000.  Eecently  it  was  estimated  to 
have  been  worth  $42,799,826.  The  advantages  of  the  Americans 
over  the  French  in  having  political  control  of  the  region,  modern 
sanitary  methods,  better  means  of  excavating,  and  unlimited  money 
should  be  considered;  and  due  credit  and  admiration  should  be 
awarded  by  all  to  de  Lesseps  and  the  Frenchmen  who  did  so  much, 
according  to  the  verdict  of  praise  rendered  by  our  own  engineers. 

Panama  Canal.  In  June,  1904,  Chief  Engineer  Wallace, 
Col.  W.  C.  Gorgas,  and  others  sailed  to  the  Isthmus  to  pur- 
sue the  great  work  which  had  been  transferred  to  the  United 
States,  May  4,  by  the  French.  Digging  in  the  Culebra  Cut 
was  continued,  but  the  chief  labor  for  two  years  and  a  half 
was  to  remedy  the  unsanitary  conditions,  to  provide  accom- 
modations for  the  employees,  to  perfect  the  organization,  to 
reconstruct  and  double-track  the  railroad,  and  to  improve  the 
terminal  facilities :  necessary  preparations  for  the  colossal  task. 
The  sanitation  of  Colon  and  Panama  included  repaving, 


THE  ISTHMUS— THE  CANAL— COLON  15 

sewerage  systems,  and  fresh  water  supply,  as  a  part  of  the 
war  against  yellow  and  malarial  fever.  A  proportionate  sum 
spent  on  sanitation  in  the  United  States  would  be  $12,000,- 
000,000  a  year,  one-third  of  the  entire  amount  devoted  to 
all  government  expenses.  Since  January,  1907,  the  work  has 
progressed  rapidly,  so  that  the  canal  is  expected  to  he  com- 
pleted and  in  operation  some  time  before  the  date  of  its  formal 
inauguration  January  1,  1915. 

In  spite  of  being  hampered  in  many  ways,  much  valuable 
work  was  accomplished  by  Chief  Engineer  John  F.  Wallace, 
who  resigned  after  one  year,  and  by  his  successor,  John  F. 
Stevens.  He  serving  until  1907  is  said  by  Col.  Goethals  to 
have  laid  out  the  transportation  scheme  in  a  manner  which 
could  not  have  been  equaled  by  any  army  engineer.  The 
engineering  skill  and  the  great  administrative  ability  of  Col. 
George  "W.  Goethals,  Chairman  of  the  Isthmian  Canal  Com- 
mission, Chief  Engineer,  President  of  the  Eailroad,  Governor 
of  the  Zone,  etc.,  are  so  well  known  and  already  so  highly 
honored  as  to  need  no  encomiums  here.  A  benevolent  despot, 
able,  wise,  just,  and  honest,  it  is  indeed  a  pleasure  in  this 
day  and  generation  to  find  one  as  to  whose  virtues  all  are 
agreed,  whose  undying  fame  is  as  yet  free  from  the  malice  of 
petty  jealousy. 

The  length  of  the  Canal,  from  deep  water  on  one  side  to  the 
same  on  the  other,  that  is,  from  the  Toro  Point  breakwater 
on  the  Atlantic  side  to  Naos  Island  on  the  Pacific  side,  is  about 
50  miles, — 10  miles  from  shore  to  shore.  From  the  Atlantic 
entrance,  by  a  channel  41  feet  deep  with  a  bottom  width 
of  500  feet,  it  is  seven  miles  to  Gatun,  two-thirds  of  which  is 
in  Limon  Bay,  the  rest  apparently  along  a  fairly  broad  river. 
At  Gatun,  as  everybody  knows,  are  the  locks,  a  double  series 
of  three,  by  means  of  which  the  ships  will  be  raised  85  feet  to 
the  level  of  Gatun  Lake.  This,  with  an  area  of  164  square 
miles,  is  without  doubt  the  largest  artificial  sheet  of  water  in 
the  world.  The  lake  naturally  has  a  widely  varying  depth 
and  a  highly  irregular  shape,  with  large  and  small  arms,  prom- 
ontories, and  islands;  but  vessels  may  sail  at  full  speed 
along  a  channel  from  500  to  1000  feet  in  width  for  a  distance 
of  24  miles  until  at  Bas  Obispo  the  Culebra  Cut  is  entered. 
This,  about  nine  miles  long,  has  a  bottom  width,  except . 


16  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUE 

on  the  curves,  of  300  feet  only,  making  a  slower  rate  oj 
speed  necessary.  At  Pedro  Miguel  the  ship  will  be  lowered 
by  one  lock  to  a  smaller  lake  covering  1200  acres,  30  feel 
below.  A  mile  and  a  half  beyond,  at  Miraflores,  the  ship, 
by  means  of  two  locks,  will  return  to  sea  level,  thence  sailing 
on,  8^  miles  more,  out  into  the  Pacific. 

The  sail  from  ocean  to  ocean  will  to  all  be  of  intense 
interest,  though  more  highly  appreciated  by  those  who  visited 
the  region  before  it  was  submerged,  watched  the  great  shovels 
cutting  away  the  range  of  hills  which  forms  the  continental 
divide,  and  saw  the  locks  in  process  of  formation. 

The  great  Gatun  dam  seems  a  wonderful  creation,  though 
the  only  remarkable  feature  is  its  size.    It  should  be  borne 
in  mind  that  the  extensive  surface  of  the  lake  among  the  hills 
does  not  cause  any  greater  pressure  upon  the  wall  of  the  dam 
than  if  it  covered  but  a  single  acre;  the  depth  of  the  water 
being  the  determining  factor,  not  the  extent  of  surface.    The 
dam  is  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half  long  at  the  top ;  half  a  mile 
wide  at  the  bottom,  400  feet  at  the  water  surface,  and  100 
at  its  crest,  designed  to  be  105  feet  above  sea  level  and  20 
feet  above  the  normal  level  of  the  lake:  a  very  wide  margin 
of  safety.    Of  the  entire  length  of  the  dam  only  500  feet, 
a  small  fraction,  one-fifteenth,  of  the  whole,  will  be  exposed 
to  the  maximum  water  head,  87  feet.    The  thickness  of  the 
dam  is  greater  than  was  deemed  necessary  by  engineers,  with 
the  result  that  there  is  no  seepage :  but  it  was  thought  best  to 
satisfy  over-apprehensive  Congressmen  by  the  employment  of 
excessive  caution.     The  interior  of  the  dam  is  an  impermeable 
mixture  of  sand  and  clay  obtained  by  dredging  above  and 
below,  placed  between  two  parallel  ridges  of  rock  and  ordi- 
nary material  obtained  from  the  steam-shovel  excavations. 
The  upstream  slope  of  slight  grade  is  thoroughly  riprapped 
ten  feet  below  and  ten  above  the  mean  water  level.    The  21 
million  cubic  yards  of  material  composing  the  dam,  which 
covers  400  acres,  is  sufficient  to  build  a  wall  three  feet  high 
and  thick  nearly  halfway  around  the  world. 

The  Gatim  Lake  will  receive  all  the  waters  of  the  Chagres 
basin  of  1320  square  miles  and  will  contain  at  its  ordinary 
level  206  billion  cubic  feet  of  water.  An  outlet,  an  obvious 
necessity,  is  provided  in  the  spillway,  a  cut  through  a  hill 


THE  ISTHMUS— THE  CANAL— COLON  17 

of  rock  nearly  in  the  center  of  the  dam,  southwest  of  the  locks. 
This  opening,  lined  with  concrete,  is  1200  feet  long  and  285 
feet  wide,  with  the  bottom,  at  the  upper  end  ten  feet  above  sea 
level,  sloping  down. 

Until  the  construction  of  the  dam  was  well  advanced  the 
water  from  the  Chagres  and  its  tributaries  flowed  out  through 
this  opening.  Then  it  was  closed  at  the  upper  or  lake  end 
by  a  dam  of  concrete  808  feet  long  in  the  form  of  an  arc  of 
a  circle,  its  crest  69  feet  above  the  sea.  Upon  this,  13  con- 
crete piers  rise  to  a  height  of  115.5  feet,  with  steel  gates  by 
which  the  water  level  of  the  lake  will  be  regulated. 

The  immense  double  locks  deserve  more  than  a  cursory 
glance.  Similar  in  construction  and  dimensions,  each  has  a 
usable  length  of  1000  feet  and  a  width  of  110  feet.  The 
chambers  have  floors  and  walls  of  concrete  with  mitering 
gates  at  each  end.  The  walls,  perpendicular  on  the  inside, 
are  45  to  50  feet  thick  near  the  bottom,  but  the  outer 
walls  narrow  from  a  point  24  feet  above  the  floor  to  a  thickness 
of  8  feet  at  the  top.  The  middle  wall  separating  the  double 
locks  is  60  feet  thick  and  81  high,  with  both  faces  vertical; 
but  in  the  upper  part  it  is  not  solid.  A  tunnel  in  the  wall 
has  three  divisions,  the  lowest  for  drainage,  the  middle  for 
electric  wires  to  operate  the  gate  and  valve  machinery,  the 
highest  as  a  passage  way  for  the  operators.  An  enormous 
amount  of  concrete  has  been  employed  for  the  locks,  four 
million  or  more  cubic  yards,  with  as  many  barrels  of  cement, 
enough  to  make  a  sidewalk  9  feet  wide  and  6  inches  thick 
more  than  twice  around  the  world. 

Matching  the  walls  are  immense  steel  gates,  7  feet  thick, 
65  feet  wide,  and  from  47  to  82  feet  high,  with  a  weight  of 
from  390  to  730  tons  each.  At  the  entrance  to  the  locks  are 
double  gates,  also  at  the  lower  end  of  the  upper  lock  in  each 
flight,  in  case  of  ramming  by  a  ship  accidentally  breaking 
through  the  fender  chain ;  for  there  are  24  chains  in  addition 
to  the  gates,  to  prevent  the  gates  being  rammed  by  a  ship 
under  its  own  steam  or  having  escaped  from  the  towing  loco- 
motive. The  chains  will  be  lowered  into  a  groove  to  allow 
the  ships  to  pass. 

Ships  will  not  be  permitted  to  enter  the  locks  under  their 
own  steam,  but  will  be  towed  through  by  electric  locomotives, 


18  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

usually  four  to  each  vessel,  two  ahead  and  two  astern,  the 
latter  to  keep  the  vessel  in  the  middle,  and  in  the  right  place. 
The  gates  and  valves  are  also  operated  by  electricity,  with 
power  obtained  through  water  turbines  from  the  head  created 
by  G-atun  Lake.  The  locks  will  be  filled  and  emptied  by  a 
system  of  culverts,  one  of  which,  about  the  size  of  the  Hudson 
Biver  tunnels  of  the  Pennsylvania  Eailroad,  18  feet  in  diame- 
ter, extends  along  the  side  and  middle  walls,  with  smaller 
branches  under  the  floor  of  the  locks.  The  water  enters  and 
leaves  by  holes  in  the  floor.  The  culverts  are  so  arranged  as 
to  economize  water  by  passing  it  from  one  twin  lock  to  the 
other.  To  save  both  time  and  water  each  lock  chamber  has  a 
single  gate  near  the  middle  dividing  it  into  two  parts,  only 
one  of  which  will  be  used  for  vessels  less  than  600  feet  long. 
To  fill  and  empty  a  lock  will  require  about  15  minutes:  to 
pass  through  the  three  at  Gatun,  about  an  hour  and  a  half, 
and  as  much  more  to  go  down  the  locks  on  the  Pacific  side. 
The  entire  passage  through  the  Canal  will  occupy  10  or  12 
hours  according  to  the  speed  of  the  ship,  in  the  narrower 
parts  all  being  obliged  to  go  slowly.  While  it  is  hoped  that 
the  first  steamer  will  pass  through  the  Canal  in  December, 
1913,  if  not  earlier,  there  is  no  expectation  of  its  being  open 
for  general  traffic  before  the  summer  of  1914. 

Colon.  Passengers  arriving  on  a  Panama  Eailroad  Steam- 
ship at  Christolal,  practically  a  part  of  Colon,  may  find  wait- 
ing on  the  dock  a  special  train  to  carry  them  across  the 
Isthmus.  The  tourist,  en  route  to  a  Pacific  port,  with  his 
heavy  baggage  checked  through,  may  let  that  go  on  to  Balboa, 
the  place  of  embarkation  on  the  other  side,  and  himself  remain 
with  hand  luggage  to  look  about  Colon.  Tourists  on  other 
steamers  land  at  a  Colon  dock,  from  which  it  is  a  five  minutes' 
walk  to  the  railway  station*  Men  and  boys  are  about,  to  as- 
sist with  hand  baggage.  All  that  is  checked  through  should  be 
transported  to  Balboa  without  personal  care  ;  but  the  cautious 
traveler  will  have  an  eye  upon  it  to  see  that  it  goes  to  the 
station  here,  and  aboard  the  proper  steamer  on  the  Pacific  side. 

HOTELS.  Washington,  E.  P.  Rooms  $3.00  per  day  and  up, 
December  1  to  June  1.  June  to  December  $2.00.  Meals  $1,00  each 
or  a  la  carte.  Imperial  Hotel,  Park  Hotel. 


THE  ISTHMUS— THE  CANAL— COLON  19 

Carnage  Fare,  10  cents  for  one,  20  cents  for  two,  25  cents  for 
three,  30  cents  for  four.  By  the  hour  75  cents  for  one,  $1.00  for 
two,  and  so  on. 

Regular  trains  for  Panama  (June,  1913)  at  5:10  and  10:30  a.  m., 
and  4:25  p.  m.;  time  two  and  one-half  hours.  Inquire  as  to  spe- 
cial sight-seeing  trains. 

Landing  early  in  the  morning  one  may  have  sufficient  time 
to  look  about  Colon  and  Christobal  before  taking  the  afternoon 
train  for  Panama.  Those  planning  a  longer  stay,  to  enjoy 
some  of  the  excursions  available,  will  drive  at  once  to  the 
new  "Washington  Hotel  on  Colon  Beach,  near  the  site  of  the 
old  house  of  that  name,  which,  giving  way  to  its  stately  suc- 
cessor, now  stands  in  the  rear  of  Christ  Church  and  there 
fulfills  its  original  purpose  to  supply  lodging  for  the  railway 
employees.  The  new  hotel,  built  of  hollow  tiles  and  re- 
enforced  concrete  in  a  modification  of  the  Spanish  Mission 
style,  is  quite  up  to  date  with  baths,  electric  lights,  lounging 
rooms,  etc.,  broad  verandas  on  the  side  towards  the  sea,  and  a 
pretty  garden  between  the  house  and  sea  wall.  A  swimming 
pool  has  been  constructed  near  by,  100x125  feet,  from  3  to  9 
feet  deep,  open  on  the  sea  side,  where  a  baffle  wall  protects  it 
from  rough  water.  In  1903  I  looked  at  the  water  with  longing 
eyes,  but  the  numerous  sharks  deter  most  persons  from  ventur- 
ing into  the  ocean.  The  hotel  with  some  rooms  with  bath,  and 
others  without,  accommodates  175  persons.  Like  the  Tivoli  it 
has  no  bar,  and  since  April  24, 1913,  there  are  no  saloons  in  the 
Zone  outside  of  the  cities,  Colon  and  Panama,  which  except  for 
sanitary  regulations  are  under  Panamanian  control.  The 
hotel  enjoys  a  breeze  all  the  year  around  and  is  said  to  be  as 
cool  as  Bar  Harbor  in  3"uly,  and  no  warmer  in  winter ;  but  it 
did  not  seem  that  way  to  me  when  I  spent  a  few  days  in  Colon 
in  1903,  the  excessive  humidity  rendering  the  heat  oppressive. 

In  the  center  of  the  garden  in  front  of  the  hotel  is  a  rather 
ugly  monument,  a  red  granite  shaft  on  a  triangular  base, 
bearing  busts  of  John  L.  Stephens,  Henry  Chauncey,  and  of 
"William  H.  Aspinwall,  after  whom  Americans  called  the  town 
for  some  years.  To  these  three  men,  in  December,  1848,  a 
concession  was  granted  by  Colombia  to  build  a  railroad  across 
the  isthmus.  The  discovery  of  gold  in  California  made  it 
possible  to  raise  money  for  the  enterprise.  Work  began  in 


20  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

1850,  and  the  first  train  crossed  the  continent  January  28, 
1855.  The  passenger  and  the  freight  trade  have  been  both 
heavy  and  expensive,  so  that  from  1852  to  the  present  time 
annual  dividends  of  from  3  to  61  per  cent  have  been  paid. 
Most  of  the  traffic  to  California  and  Oregon  was  diverted  on 
the  completion  in  1869  of  the  transcontinental  railway,  but 
good  dividends  continued.  In  1881  the  French  Canal  Com- 
pany bought  most  of  the  shares,  as  the  road  was  an  obvious 
necessity  to  their  work;  it  therefore  came  into  possession  of 
the  United  States  Government,  May  4,  1904,  when  the  pur- 
chase of  the  French  rights,  work,  and  equipment  was  con- 
summated. 

The  city  of  Colon,  which  the  Colombian  Government  very 
properly  insisted  upon  calling  after  Columbus,  is  on  the  Island 
of  Manzanillo  (formerly  separated  by  a  narrow  strait  from 
the  main  land),  a  coral  reef  with  a  mangrove  swamp  at  the 
back  Here  in  1850  some  shanties  and  stores  were  built  by 
the  pioneers  of  the  railroad.  'The  village  grew  and  prospered 
in  spite  of  the  swampy  location,  which  was  improved  by  the 
deposits  of  rock  and  earth  made  by  the  French  on  the  part 
now  known  as  Christobal  for  the  homes  of  the  employees. 
In  1904  there  were  10,000  people  in  the  town,  9000  living  in 
shanties  on  stilts  in  the  terrible  section  back  of  Front  street. 
Now  in  Christobal-Colon  there  are  20,000  people,  and  the  place 
is  drained  and  healthful. 

Just  east  of  the  "Washington  Hotel  is  the  gray  stone  build- 
ing, modified  Gothic,  of  Christ  Episcopal  Church,  dedicated 
in  1865.  Built  by  contributions  from  the  Panama  Railroad 
Company  and  various  missionary  societies,  it  was  at  first 
American,  after  1883  Anglican,  and  in  1907  again  American 
Episcopal.  Whites  and  blacks  here  worship  together,  with  a 
majority,  of  negroes. 

Half  a  mile  farther  on  is  the  fine  Colon  hospital  with  525 
beds,  of  course  a  Commission  affair.  Built  right  over  the 
water  on  piles  a  few  feet  high,  one  is  almost  tempted  to  be 
sick  to  be  housed  in  so  attractive  a  place.  Beyond  is  the  quar- 
antine station  where  persons  coming  from  plague  or  fever 
ports  are  detained  six  or  seven  days. 

The  numerous  negroes  from  Jamaica  and  Martinique  will 
interest  many,  their  dwellings  on  the  back  streets,  the  drainage 


THE  ISTHMUS— THE  CANAL— COLON          21 

ditch,  and  Front  street  lined  with  stores,  where  curios  of  a 
sort  could  formerly  be  purchased  better  than  in  Panama, — 
bags  or  caps  of  cocoanut  skins,  heads  carved  from  cocoanuts, 
and  carved  gourds,  large  and  small,  the  latter  used  as  drink- 
ing cups. 

In  Christobal  are  dwellings  of  the  Canal  employees;  a  large 
building  occupied  by  the  Commissary  Department  contains 
a  cold  storage  plant,  a  bakery,  and  a  laundry,  which  serve  all 
the  employees  of  the  canal,  the  railroad,  and  the  IT.  S.  Gov- 
ernment on  the  Isthmus : — these  with  their  families  number- 
ing at  times  60,000.  Also  there  is  a  Commission  Hotel  with 
meals  at  30  cents  for  employees,  50  cents  for  transients,  pro- 
viding better  fare  than  can  be  procured  in  most  parts  of  the 
United  States  for  the  price  to  employees;  and  a  T.  M.  C.  A. 
building  which  supplies  a  reading  room,  opportunity  for  games 
and  for  social  diversions  including  dances,  lectures,  and  other 
entertainments.  There  are  five  other  similar  structures  along 
the  line. 

At  the  end  of  the  Point  are  two  houses  constructed  for 
Ferdinand  de  Lesseps  and  his  son,  now  moved  closer  together 
and  devoted  to  offices  of  the  Commissary  and  Health  Depart- 
ments. Beyond  is  the  statue  of  the  great  Discoverer:  the 
monument,  cast  at  Turin,  a  replica  of  one  in  Lima,  presented 
by  Empress  Eugenie  to  the  Republic  of  Colombia  to  be  erected 
at  Colon.  Columbus,  of  noble  countenance,  is  represented  in 
attitude  of  explanation  to  an  Indian  maiden  personifying 
America,  whose  face  expresses  wonder  and  alarm. 

Porto  Bello.  With  time  to  spare  an  excursion  may  be  made 
to  the  beautiful  harbor  of  Porto  Bello,  18  miles  northeast  of 
Colon,  where  the  Commission  has  been  operating,  in  a  great 
rock  quarry,  one  of  the  largest  stone  crushers  in  the  world. 
Millions  of  cubic  yards  of  rock  have  been  taken  from  here,  a 
smaller  size  for  the  concrete  of  the  Gatun  locks  and  spillway, 
a  larger  size  for  the  Colon  breakwater.  Porto  Bello  and 
Nombre  de  Dios  were  the  two  safe  harbors  found  by  the 
Spaniards  on  this  coast.  The  former  has  been  a  Spanish  town 
since  1597.  With  a  fine  location  the  town  is  considered 
unhealthy,  having  an  extraordinary  amount  of  rain,  237 
inches  in  1909.  A  tug  leaves  Christobal  wharf  every  morning 
returning  at  night.  One  has  two  hours  or  more  to  view  the 


22  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

American  settlement  of  1000  people  at  the  stone  quarries  and 
to  cross  the  bay  to  the  old  -village  to  see  the  finest  ruins  on  the 
Isthmus:  an  old  customs  house,  old  bridges,  the  remains  of 
Fort  San  Jerome,  and  the  old  plaza.  There  is  a  population  of 
over  2000,  with  a  church  and  stores. 

Some  miles  beyond  Porto  Bello  begins  the  large  section  of 
country  inhabited  by  the  San  Bias  Indians,  who  have  been 
smart  and  sensible  enough  to  keep  the  white  man  out  of  their 
territory,  thus  preserving  their  independence  to  the  pres- 
ent day.  They  come  to  Colon  to  trade,  but  seldom  allow  a 
stranger  to  remain  over  night  in  their  territory. 

San  Lorenzo  Fort.  Another  excursion  of  interest  is  to  San 
Lorenzo  Fort,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chagres  River,  either  by 
sea  in  a  motor  boat,  or  better,  in  a  canoe  down  the  river  from 
Gatun,  a  sail  of  ten  miles,  during  which  one  has  a  glimpse  of 
the  real  tropical  jungle ;  the  sea  route  affords  a  better  view  of 
the  old  fort  The  remains  are  very  complete,  an  outer  wall, 
and  a  castle  to  be  entered  by  a  drawbridge.  There  are  strong 
rooms,  galleries  for  prison  cells,  manacles,  etc.,  seeing  which 
the  tourist  is  apt  to  be  more  contented  with  his  own  lot.  At 
the  foot  of  the  hill  is  the  little  village  of  Chagres. 

In  front  of  Christobal  a  construction  of  five  piers  is  being 
made  enclosing  ten  docks  capable  of  berthing  ships  1000  feet 
long,  these  being  the  Atlantic  terminal  docks  for  the  canal. 
Across  the  bay  is  Toro  Point.  From  this  headland  a  break- 
water has  been  constructed  to  protect  the  canal  entrance  and 
Limon  Bay  from  the  violent  northers  which  occasionally  visit 
this  coast.  It  will  also  reduce  the  amount  of  silt  to  be  washed 
into  the  dredged  canal.  From  Toro  Point  the  breakwater 
extends  northeast  for  a  distance  of  over  two  miles.  The 
bottom  width  varies  with  the  depth  of  the  water;  at  the  top 
it  is  15  feet  wide  and  10  feet  above  mean  sea  level.  A 
double-track  trestle  was  first  constructed,  from  which  carloads 
of  rock  were  dumped  into  the  sea.  The  cost  is  about  $5,500,- 
000.  It  has  recently  been  decided  to  construct  an  additional 
though  smaller  breakwater  on  the  Colon  side,  extending  west, 
some  distance  north  of  Christobal  Point.  Fortifications  for 
the  defense  of  the  canal  are  being  raised,  both  at  Toro  Point 
and  on  the  east  side  at  Margarita  Island,  one  mile  north  of 
Manzanillo. 


CHAPTEE  IV 
COLON  TO  PANAMA— PANAMA  CITY 

Four  daily  trains  in  about  2  hours  at  3.00,  6.00  and  10.40  a.  m.  and 
4.00  p.  m.  Special  train  for  sight-seers,  round  trip  fare  $4.00,  from 
Colon  at  8  a.  m.,  with  barge  service  on  lake,  $1.50  extra. 

Guides  for  tourist  parties  to  inspect  Canal,  $7.50  per  day,  on 
application  to  Railway  Ticket  Agents,  Colon  or  Panama. 

WHILE  the  sail  through  the  great  canal  will  be  an  ex- 
traordinary delight,  the  railroad  ride  will  also  afford  much 
pleasure.  On  leaving  Colon  the  line  passes  various  docks,  the 
Government  printing  plant,  the  marine  shop  and  dry  dock  at 
Mount  Hope,  and  the  main  storehouse  of  supplies  for  canal 
and  railroad.  On  the  east  side  of  the  railroad,  opposite  the 
warehouse,  is  Mount  Hope  Cemetery,  where  many  French  and 
others  are  buried,  on  a  knoll  which  for  a  time  was  called  Mon- 
key Hill  on  account  of  the  many  monkeys  there.  These 
creatures  are  found  in  the  woods  all  over  the  Isthmus.  Stone 
piers  which  may  be  seen  on  the  east  beyond  Mindi  were 
erected  by  the  French,  for  a  viaduct  with  the  design  of  relocat- 
ing the  railroad.  This,  obviously  necessary  for  the  Americans, 
has  been  accomplished  at  a  cost  of  nearly  $9,000,000.  In  the 
swamp  lands  along  here  much  papyrus  is  growing. 

New  Gatun.  From  Colon  to  Gatun  a  distance  of  7  miles 
the  track  rises  95  feet.  New  Gatun,  on  the  hill,  is  a  village 
but  a  few  years  old,  the  site  of  the  ancient  town  now  being 
covered  by  the  dam.  In  1904  Gatun  was  a  busy  place  on  the 
Chagres  Eiver,  where  sometimes  100  dugouts  loaded  with 
bananas  would  tie  at  the  bank,  and  seven  or  eight  car  loads  a 
week  would  be  shipped.  In  former  days  the  railroad  followed 
up  the  Chagres  Valley,  but  now  it  is  obliged  to  turn  east  to 
make  a  detour  around  the  lake.  It  is  desirable  to  alight  here 
to  examine  the  locks  and  if  possible  the  spillway.  Along  the 

23 


24  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUE 

edge  of  the  lock  walls  may  be  seen  the  cog  rail  for  the  towing 
locomotives,  and  farther  back  the  return  track  without  center 
cog.  Tall  concrete  columns  along  the  top  of  the  walls  are  the 
standards  for  electric  lights  to  illuminate  the  locks.  Tall 
towers,  apparently  light  houses,  are  range  lights  on  the  center 
lines  of  the  straight  stretches  of  the  canal,  so  that  a  vessel 
lining  up  with  the  tower  would  know  it  was  on  the  center  line 
of  the  canal.  From  the  building  on  Gatun  hill  containing  the 
office  of  the  Division  Engineer  may  be  had  the  best  view  of  the 
canal  obtainable  from  any  one  point.  Northward  are  the 
waters  of  Limon  Bay;  and  the  masts  of  shipping  at  Colon 
harbor  are  visible.  Close  at  hand  are  the  locks  and  dam  and  a 
broad  stretch  of  the  lake. 

Leaving  Gatun  the  new  road  turns  east  along  Gatun  ridge, 
then  south  with  pretty  glimpses  of  the  jungle,  crossing  the 
Gatun  Valley  to  Monte  Lirio.    From  this  point  it  skirts  the 
east  shore  of  the  lake  to  Bas  Obispo  at  the  beginning  of  the 
Culebra  Cut.    Several  immense  embankments  were  necessary 
to  cross  the  Gatun  Valley  section  above  the  surface  of  the  lake, 
and  others  were  made  for  dumping  the  spoil  from  Culebra 
Cut  near  its  north  end.    Half  a  mile  beyond  Monte  Lirio  the 
railroad  crosses  the  Gatun  Eiver  by  a  steel  girder  bridge  318 
feet  long,  built  in  three  spans,  one  of  which  may  be  lifted  to 
permit  access  by  boat  to  the  upper  arm  of  the  lake.    Another 
steel  girder  bridge,  one-quarter  of  a  mile  long,  crosses  the  Cha- 
gres  Eiver  at  Gamboa,  with  the  channel  span  a  200-foot  truss, 
the  other  fourteen,  plate  girder  spans,  each  80  feet  long. 
From  this  bridge,  at  the  north  end  of  which  a  new  town-site 
has  been  laid  out,  a  glimpse  of  the  northern  end  of  Culebra 
Cut  may  be  had.    It  was  originally  expected  to  carry  the  road 
through  the  Cut,  10  feet  above  the  water  level,  but  the  slides 
making  this  impracticable,  the  relocation  has  been  made  by 
cutting  through  a  ridge  of  solid  rock  and  working  around  east 
of  Gold  Hill,  passing   Culebra   at   a  distance  of  2   miles. 
Then  the  track  runs  down  the  Pedro  Miguel  Valley  to  Pedro 
Miguel  Station,  where  it  is  within  300  feet  of  the  locks.    The 
highest  elevation  of  the  track  is  270  feet  above  the  sea  about 
opposite  Las  Cascadas.    The  Continental  Divide  is  crossed 
240  feet  above  the  sea  in  about  the  same  line  as  Culebra. 
Journeying  by  the  new  road  from  Gatun,  the  old  traveler  or 


COLON  TO  PANAMA  25 

resident  will  miss  some  familiar  names,  the  bearers  of  which, 
if  not  concealed  tinder  water,  are  now  remote  and  vanishing. 
Lion  and  Tiger  Hills  were  small  hamlets,  but  Bohio  was  quite 
a  place,  where  the  French  had  a  machine  shop.  It  was  once 
considered  as  a  possible  site  for  the  locks  and  dam.  Frijoles 
(beans)  and  Tabernilla  have  been  places  of  some  importance 
and  Gorgona  of  more,  because  here  were  the  American  machine 
shops,  now  removed  to  Balboa.  The  place  with  the  peculiar 
name  Matachin,  which  everybody  remembered,  will  not  be 
covered  over  with  water,  but  like  others  farther  on  will  relapse 
into  a  small  hamlet.  The  prevalent  notion  that  this  name  was 
derived  from  matar,  to  Mil,  and  Chino,  and  was  applied  on 
account  of  the  wholesale  deaths  of  Chinese  is  incorrect.  It  is 
the  Spanish  word  meaning  a  dance  by  grotesque  figures. 

Bas  Obispv  beyond  Gamboa  is  one  of  the  old  places  still 
visible,  at  the  north  end  of  the  Culebra  Cut.  Near  by,  De- 
cember 12,  1908,  occurred  the  greatest  accident  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  Canal  when  44,000  pounds  of  45  per  cent 
dynamite  which  had  been  packed  into  fifty-three  holes  were 
set  off  by  the  explosion  of  one,  as  the  last  hole  was  being 
tamped.  As  the  hour  was  11.10  many  men  were  passing  home 
to  lunch.  The  hillside,  falling  into  the  Cut,  as  had  been 
planned  for  a  later  hour,  buried  several  men,  and  others  were 
struck  by  flying  rock.  In  all  twenty-six  were  killed  and  a 
dozen  permanently  maimed.  Near  Bas  Obispo  is  Camp  Elli- 
ott, where  a  battalion  of  marines  has  long  been  stationed. 

Empire.  Las  Cascadas,  where  once  a  stream  tumbled  down 
a  precipice  40  feet  towards  the  Chagres,  formerly  came  next, 
then  Empire,  one  of  the  largest  of  the  Canal  villages.  Here 
the  French  began  excavations  in  the  Cut,  as  previously  men- 
tioned, January  20, 1882,  before  a  large  assemblage  of  officials 
of  the  Canal  Company  and  of  Panama.  The  work  was  blessed 
by  the  Bishop  and  the  too  common  champagne  celebrated  the 
occasion. 

Culebra  was  the  real  capital  of  the  Zone  after  John  F. 
Stevens  in  1906  moved  his  quarters  there  from  Ancon.  Here 
has  been  the  home  and  office  of  Col.  Goethals,  the  head  of 
everything,  and  of  other  prominent  officials.  In  1908  Culebra 
had  a  population  of  5516,  but  is  now  much  smaller.  The  side 
of  the  hill  towards  the  Cut  has  been  gradually  slipping  away, 


26  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUK 

taking  a  part  of  the  village,  but  so  slowly  that  the  houses  were 
first  removed  to  the  rear  slopes. 

The  average  depth  of  the  Cut  through  its  nine  miles  of 
length  is  120  feet.  The  heaviest  point  is  near  Culebra  vil- 
lage between  Gold  Hill  on  the  east  side  and  Contractors'  Hill 
on  the  west,  where  the  depth  averages  375  feet.  The  summit 
of  Gold  Hill  is  660  feet  above  the  sea,  of  Contractors'  Hill, 
410  feet.  Beyond  Gold  Hill  is  the  troublesome  Cucuracha 
slide,  though  the  largest  is  the  one  at  the  Culebra  village  on 
the  west  One  slide  here  involved  1,550,000  cubic  yards.  At 
this  point  the  Cut  is  about  2000  feet  across.  The  dwellings 
of  the  employees  here,  as  at  Christobal  and  all  along  the  line, 
look  very  pretty  and  comfortable  with  their  screened  ve- 
randas. Market  facilities  have  been  good  with  prices  gen- 
erally lower  than  at  home  for  meat  and  other  things  brought 
in  cold  storage  from  the  States.  The  climate  is  not  objection- 
able to  the  majority,  and  many  will  be  grieved,  when,  the 
Canal  being  finished  and  only  a  select  few  remaining  for  its 
service,  they  shall  be  obliged  to  return  home  again.  Some, 
no  doubt,  being  now  weaned  from  excessive  affection  for  one 
particular  spot,  will  go  on  to  other  parts  of  Spanish  Amer- 
ica. There,  intelligent  men  of  the  right  spirit,  who  have 
saved  a  portion  of  their  earnings,  will  find  agreeable  oppor- 
tunities for  work  and  for  investments  of  various  kinds. 

Beyond  Pedro  Miguel  is  the  Miraflores  Lake  and  the  two 
Miraflores  locks  by  which  the  ships  reach  sea  level  again. 
After  passing  through  a  concrete  lined  tunnel  736  feet  long, 
&neon  Hill,  overlooking  the  Pacific  entrance  to  the  Canal,  is 
straight  ahead.  One  more  station,  Corozal,  headquarters  of 
the  Pacific  Division,  and  the  city  of  Panama  is  reached. 

PANAMA  CITY 

HOTELS.  The  Tivoli,  $5.50  arid  up  a  day,  American  plan;  the 
Central,  $3.00  a  day,  American  plan;  the  International,  Metropole, 
md  several  others,  smaller  and  less  expensive,  but  some  of  them 
leat  and  respectable. 

^  Carnage  Fare,  10  cents,  U.  S.  currency,  for  one  person,  20  cents 
:or  two,  etc.,  in  Panama  City,  or  20  cents  and  40  cents  silver, 
3anama  money.  Panama  to  Balboa  docks,  50  cents  U.  S,  currency. 

Automobile  Tariff,  first  hour,  for  cars  seating  five,  six,  or  seven 
>ersons,  $5.00,  $6.00,  or  $7.00;  second  hour  $1.00  less.  Local  fares 


PANAMA  CITY  27 

about  the  city,  50  cents  for  each  person.  To  Balboa  Docks  and 
return,  $3.50,  five-seat  car;  $5.00,  seven-seat  car.  To  Old  Panama 
and  return,  $5.00,  or  $7.00,  if  within  one  hour;  if  more,  on  hourly 
basis. 

Electric  Cars,  fare  five  cents,  run  every  ten  minutes  from  Hotel 
Tivoli  past  the  railway  station  down  Avenue  Central  to  the  Na- 
tional Palace  near  the  sea  wall;  also  beyond  the  Tivoli  to  the 
Catholic  Chapel  on  the  Aneon  Hospital  road.  Of  two  other  lines, 
one  runs  from  Santa  Ana  Park  by  C,  16th,  and  B  streets,  and 
so  on  to  Balboa;  another  branching  from  Central  avenue  at  13th 
street  and  following  North  avenue  goes  out  the  Sabanas  road. 

The  Republic  of  Panama,  proclaimed  Nov.  3,  1903,  by 
treaty  of  Feb.  26,  1904,  came  under  the  protection  of  the 
United  States,  receiving  $10,000,000  cash  for  the  sovereignty 
of  the  Canal  Zone  and  after  1913  a  yearly  rental  of  $250,- 
000.  The  form  of  government  of  the  Eepublic  is  similar  to 
that  of  the  United  States.  The  country  is  340  miles  long 
from  east  to  west,  from  the  Atrato  River  on  the  Colombia 
side  to  Costa  Bica  on  the  west.  From  north  to  south  its 
widest  point  is  120  miles  in  the  province  of  Veraguas,  and  the 
narrowest  less  than  40  in  Darien.  There  are  mountains  7000 
feet  high  in  Darien  and  11,000  feet  in  Chiriqui;  the  lowest 
pass,  312  feet,  is  that  used  by  the  Canal  and  Railroad.  The 
population,  outside  the  Zone  about  340,000,  includes  36,000 
Indians,  and  a  very  large  proportion  of  negroes  and  mixed 
races.  The  country  has  excellent  possibilities  for  agriculture 
and  cattle  raising,  with  smaller  ones  for  minerals. 

Panama.  The  new  city  of  Panama,  founded  January  21, 
1673,  was  soon  protected  by  a  sea-wall,  still  standing,  and  on 
the  single  land  side  by  a  wall,  and  a  deep  moat  crossed  by  a 
drawbridge.  To  make  it  proof  against  further  raids  two 
forts  were  erected  on  the  land  side  and  one  by  the  sea.  The 
residences  built  of  wood  suffered  from  various  fires  so  that 
few  old  buildings  remain,  yet  the  masonry  structures  have 
the  appearance  of  age.  One  hundred  and  twenty  years  ago 
the  city  had  7857  inhabitants,  double  that  in  1870,  and  in 
1911,  37,505. 

Hotel  Tivoli.  Arriving  at  Panama,  almost  every  one  who 
can  afford  it  will  go  to  the  Hotel  Tivoli,  near  the  station,  de- 
lightfully situated  at  the  foot  of  Ancon  Hill,  on  the  farther 
side  of  a  small  park  called  the  Plaza  de  Lesseps.  It  is  in- 


28  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tended  some  day  to  erect  in  the  center  of  the  plaza  a  statu 
to  the  hero  of  the  Suez  Canal,  initiator  of  the  great  work  a 
Panama.    On  a  knoll,  overlooking  the  city  and  part  of  th 
bay,  the  hotel  has  many  rooms  opening  on  the  broad  veranda 
which  afford  charming  prospects.    The  nights  are  comfort 
ably  cool,  and  the  table  affords  good  American  fare.     Th< 
hotel  was  erected  by  the  Government  especially  to  accommo 
date  Canal  employees  on  their  arrival,  and  persons  whost 
business  with  the  administration  caused  them  to  come  to  th< 
Isthmus.    Also  it  was  designed  to  afford  recreation  to  em 
ployees  on  the  line  desirous  of  an  occasional  trip  to  the  city 
"With  this  end  in  view  a  large  dance  hall  was  provided  aboul 
80x40  feet,  where  the  Tivoli  Club,  organized  among  the  em- 
ployees, has  given  dances  two  Saturday  evenings  each  month 
The  hotel,  opened  Jan.  1,  1907,  has  220  guest  rooms,  and  a 
dining-room  seating  700.    The  building,  314  feet  long  witi 
wings  156  feet  deep,  has  a  court  in  front  91  feet  in  depth 
with  a  carriage  road  and  garden.     Of  late  on  account  of  in- 
creased travel  the  hotel  has  been  enlarged  and  is  much  used 
by  tourists.    The  prices,  $5.50  a  day  and  up,  will  seem  reason- 
able enough  to  patrons  of  the  large  New  York  hotels. 

The  Hotel  Central  may  be  preferred  by  some  on  account 
of  the  lower  prices,  $3.00  and  up,  or  because  it  is  in  the 
center  of  things  on  the  principal  plaza  of  Panama  (now 
called  the  Independencia),  opposite  the  cathedral;  its  loca- 
tion and  its  clientele  afford  an  opportunity  to  see  more  of 
Spanish  American  life.  The  building  is  four  stories  high, 
in  Spanish  style  around  a  central  court  or  patio.  Built  in 
1880  it  has  recently  been  renewed,  and  the  rooms  are  large 
and  airy.  The  table  formerly  left  something  to  be  desired, 
but  has  very  likely  improved  with  the  competition.  Once  it 
was  the  only  place  where  anybody  could  go. 

The  International  Hotel  is  most  convenient  to  the  railway 
station  on  the  Railway  Plaza;  a  large  fireproof  building  in 
Spanish  Mission  style,  completed  in  1912,  and  affording  all 
modern  conveniences.  The  smaller  hotels  on  the  Avenida 
Central  may  be  patronized  by  those  to  whom  the  saving  of  a 
few  dollars  is  important.  The  Hotel  Metropole  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  Santa  Ana  Plaza. 
A  new  and  modern  hotel,  accommodating  500  persons,  built 


PANAMA  CITY  29 

by  British  capital  on  Chiriqui  Point  overlooking  the  bay, 
is  expected  to  be  ready  for  guests  in  November,  1914. 

Sight-seeing  may  begin  from  the  Tivoli  or  International 
with  a  walk  or  ride  down  the  Avenida  Central,  which  goes 
first  in  a  rather  southerly  direction,  but  in  town  when  cross- 
ing the  plaza  about  east  and  west.  The  northern  part  of  the 
town  is  rather  new,  belonging  to  the  Canal  period,  French  and 
American.  On  the  right  at  some  little  distance  a  three- 
story  white  concrete  building,  very  ornate,  with  broad  portico, 
is  the  club  house  of  the  Spanish  Benevolent  Society.  Next 
door  is  the  American  Consulate.  Two  blocks  farther  is  the 
Plaza  Santa  Ana,  with  trees,  plants,  and  walks,  where  on 
Thursday  nights  there  is  a  band  concert  and  hundreds  of 
people  promenading.  Besides  the  Church,  there  are  saloons, 
a  Variety  Theater  with  roof  garden,  promenade  balcony,  and 
fine  interior  decorations,  erected  1911-12,  and  on  the  west 
side  the  Metropole  Hotel.  On  the  road,  one  block  south  of 
the  plaza,  leading  west  to  Balboa  is  the  Santo  Tomas  Hos- 
pital, with  350  beds,  under  the  direction  of  an  American  doc- 
tor with  good  nurses  and  physicians,  maintained  by  the 
Panama  Government.  The  three  cemeteries  are  beyond,  one 
each  for  Chinese,  Hebrews,  and  Christians.  Tragic  tales  are 
told  of  the  yellow  fever  days,  and  space  for  burial  is  still 
leased. 

Three  blocks  from  the  Plaza  on  the  Central  avenue  is  the 
Church  of  La  Merced.  Diagonally  across  from  it  is  a  piece 
of  the  old  wall  formerly  extending  from  tidewater  on  one 
side  to  the  other.  One  should  climb  the  steps  to  get  an  idea 
of  the  walls,  the  cost  of  which  caused  wonder  to  the  King 
of  Spain.  This  was  one  of  the  bastions  commanding  the 
drawbridge  and  the  sabanas  or  plains  to  the  north.  Here 
the  youth  now  play  tennis,  and  a  circus  encamps  once  a  year. 
The  area  is  at  least  1500  square  feet,  and  there  is  a  drop  of 
from  30  to  35  feet  to  the  level  outside.  A  parapet  3 
feet  high  still  shows  the  embrasures  for  the  brass  cannon.  The 
old  wall  extending  to  the  south  had  rock  faces  with  earth  be- 
tween. 

Beyond  this  wall  is  the  real  city,  mostly  of  natives,  with 
its  own  peculiar  spirit  and  fascination.  They  always  come 
back,  it  is  said,  when  people  go  away.  Here  in  the  narrow 


30  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUE 

streets,  plazas,  churches,  even  stores,  and  on  the  old  sea  wall, 
a  spell  is  woven  over  those  who  linger,  which  has  alluring 
power.  The  Plaza  Independence,  three  blocks  from  the  wall, 
is  the  heart  of  the  city,  a  charming  place,  with  the  Cathedral 
on  the  west,  the  Central  Hotel  east,  the  Bishop's  Palace  north, 
and  the  Municipal  Building  and  the  French  Administration 
Building  on  the  south.  The  last,  four  stories  high,  was  built 
in  1875  as  a  hotel,  but  leased  to  the  French  and  used  for 
offices.  The  Americans  took  possession  of  it  May  4,  1904,  but 
finding  it  to  be  infested  with  the  stegomia  mosquitoes  dur- 
ing the  yellow  fever  epidemic  in  1905,  it  was  abandoned  by 
them,  in  1906  when  the  Chief  Engineer  moved  to  Culebra. 
It  is  now  occupied  by  the  health  and  municipal  bureaus  of 
Panama  and  by  their  printing  office. 

The  new  Municipal  Building,  on  the  site  of  the  old  cabildo, 
council  chamber,  in  which  independence  was  declared  in  1821, 
was  completed  in  1910  and  is  called  the  handsomest  building 
in  the  city.  Here  are  various  offices,  the  Columbus  Library 
with  valuable  historical  works,  a  marble  'bacchante  in  the  cor- 
ridor, and  a  front  door  of  a  dozen  varieties  of  native  hard 
twoods. 

The  Bishop's  Palace  erected  1880,  besides  his  residence, 
offices,  and  a  boys'  school,  has  in  one  corner  the  office  of  the 
Panama  Lottery.  Though  gambling  is  prohibited  by  the 
Panama  Constitution,  the  lease  of  the  company  is  good  till 
1918.  Every  Sunday  morning  drawings  are  made  for  prizes 
ranging  from  $1.00  to  $3500,  taken  from  10,000  tickets.  It 
is  said  that  most  of  the  money  comes  from  the  Canal  workers. 
,The  offices  of  several  of  the  steamship  companies  are  on  the 
Plaza,  but  that  of  the  Peruvian  Line  is  on  llth  street  near 
Central  avenue. 

Continuing  on  the  Central  avenue,  passing  on  the  right  the 
[French  consulate  and  the  American  Legation,  one  reaches  the 
National  Palace  or  Government  Building  on  the  left,  occupy- 
ing a  whole  square,  with  a  central  patio.  The  Assembly  Halls 
and  offices  are  on  the  south  side,  the  National  Theatre  on  the 
north  and  various  Government  offices  on  the  sides.  Begun  in 
1905  it  was  finished  in  1908.  It  is  of  the  modified  Italian 
renaissance  style  and  is  said  to  be  fireproof.  The  handsome 
theater  seats  1000  people.  There  is  a  week  or  two  of  opera 


PANAMA  CITY  31 

and  of  theater  every  year.  Other  entertainments  are  occa- 
sionally held,  and  public  meetings  of  a  non-political  nature. 
'  The  Plaza  Bolivar,  formerly  San  Francisco,  is  at  the  south- 
east corner  of  the  building,  with  the  San  Francisco  Church  and 
Franciscan  convent  on  the  east  side,  the  latter  in  ruins,  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  1756 ;  the  former,  also  burned,  was  restored 
1785-1790.  The  church  is  a  basilica  with  a  nave  and  two 
aisles,  the  arches  supported  by  square  masonry  pillars,  and 
with  transept  and  apse.  The  high  altar  is  wood  painted  to 
imitate  marble.  A  picture  in  a  shrine  at  the  left  of  the 
entrance  has  a  very  definite  representation  of  purgatory,  with 
a  view  of  heavenly  regions  above. 

The  ruins  of  the  old  convent  still  show  a  fine  row  of  arches. 
.Within  are  wooden  buildings  now  used  as  schools. 

From  the  Central  avenue  going  along  the  water  front,  one 
will  pass  a  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  parsonage,  and  school, 
buildings  of  concrete  erected  in  1908.  At  the  sea  front  is 
the  south  bastion  called  The  Sea  Wall.  Under  the  arches  are 
many  dungeons  once  filthy,  where  thousands  of  criminals  and 
political  suspects  suffered  and  died.  These  are  used  no  longer, 
but  the  Chiriqui  prison,  suitably  provided  and  clean,  is  here 
located,  partly  in  the  large  barrack  building  formerly  occupied 
by  the  garrison  of  soldiers.  In  the  late  afternoon  or  early  even- 
ing one  should  visit  this  interesting  spot.  Close  by  is  the 
new  home  of  the  University  Club  where  some  say  the  best 
meals  in  Panama  are  served  and  the  best  collection  of  Eng- 
lish boots  and  periodicals  is  found.  The  library  and  read- 
ing room  with  hardwood  floor  are  sometimes  cleared  for  danc- 
ing. The  membership  of  two  hundred  includes  one  hundred 
twenty-five  American  employees  and  seventy-five  residents 
of  Panama.  Organized  in  1906  for  college  men,  the  re- 
striction was  soon  abandoned. 

Two  blocks  from  the  Plaza  Bolivar,  keeping  to  the  sea  front, 
is  the  home  of  the  Union  Club,  a  large  white  building  from 
the  roof  of  which  is  a  fine  view  of  Panama  Bay.  A  swimming 
tank  refilled  at  every  tide  is  among  its  luxuries. 

On  the  water  front  near  this  Club,  at  the  foot  of  5th.  street 
which  passes  in  front  of  the  Hotel  Central,  is  the  Marine 
Building  where  passengers  go  aboard  small  boats  to  be  rowed 
out  to  ships  engaged  in  the  coasting  trade.  Diagonally  across 


32  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

the  street  is  the  Presidencies,  a  two-story  building  of  Spanish 
Mission  style  where  the  President  of  the  Republic  lives  and 
has  his  executive  offices. 

Two  blocks  along  the  front  from  the  Presidencies  there  is  a 
steep  incline  where  the  old  wall  passed  to  the  sea.  On  the 
beach  below,  a  market  was  established  in  1877,  now  in  a  large 
open  building,  where  not  only  vegetables,  fruits,  meat,  and 
fish  are  sold,  but  lace  and  other  commodities.  Close  by, 
boats  at  high  tide  run  up  on  the  beach,  saving  expense  of 
lighterage.  A  visit  to  the  market  early  in  the  morning  is 
well  worth  while,  as  the  assemblage  of  people  and  of  com- 
modities, many  of  strange  appearance,  make  this  the  most 
picturesque  place  in  Panama.  On  the  way  to  the  plaza 
one  may  pass  various  shops,  several  Chinese,  where  bargain- 
ing is  possible,  though  most  of  the  other  stores  have  one  price. 
Woolens,  silk,  lace,  and  some  other  things  are  cheaper  than 
in  the  United  States,  and  odd  bits  may  be  picked  up  by  a 
connoisseur.  Panama  hats  are  found  cheaper  than  in  the 
United  States,  but  may  be  purchased  to  better  advantage  in 
Ecuador  and  Peru.  A  hammock,  a  kodak,  films,  anything  for- 
gotten or  newly  thought  of  may  here  be  supplied.  But  if  films 
are  purchased,  be  sure  that  they  are  dated  nearly  a  year  ahead 
and  are  in  sealed  tin  boxes. 

The  churches  of  Panama  are  not  especially  fine,  but  a  few 
should  be  visited.  It  would  be  needless  to  say  that  due  re- 
spect to  the  House  of  God  should  be  shown  by  the  removal 
of  the  hat,  and  by  courteous  behavior,  but  for  the  astonish- 
ing ill  manners  and  rudeness  displayed  by  some  American 
boors  which  have  tended  to  make  us  unpopular  with  most 
Latin  Americans.  If  we  are  really  so  superior  as  some  of  us 
fancy,  it  would  be  well  to  exhibit  this  by  our  good  breeding. 
To  avoid  shocking  the  prejudices  of  others,  and  in  some  cases 
to  do  tetter  than  we  would  be  done  by  will  increase  the  pleas- 
ure of  a  trip  and  pave  the  way  for  business  advantage. 

The  Cathedral,  though  first  of  the  churches  designed,  was 
delayed  in  construction.  A  negro,  Luna  Victoria*  becoming 
Bishop  in  1751,  urged  its  completion,  himself  making  liberal 
contributions  so  that  it  was  finished  in  1760.  The  architec- 
ture is  of  Moorish  type  with  Spanish  and  American  modifica- 


PANAMA  CITY  33 

tions;  the  style  of  two  towers  is  used  in  many  Spanish 
American  churches.  The  cathedral  has  a  nave  and  four  aisles, 
an  apse  containing  the  high  altar  of  wood  richly  ornamented, 
with  two  side  altars  and  the  episcopal  throne.  An  old  paint- 
ing representing  the  miracle  of  the  Eosary  is  said  to  be  a 
Murillo. 

The  Church  of  San  Felipe  Neri,  with  a  tablet  bearing  the 
words  Neri  Ao  1688,  on  the  corner  of  Avenue  B  and  4th  street, 
is  said  to  be  the  oldest  and  perhaps  the  prettiest  of  the  Panama 
churches.  It  is  less  gaudy  or  tawdry  than  some  of  the  others. 
An  adjoining  courtyard  with  a  garden  is  surrounded  by 
houses  of  Sisters  of  Charity.  At  the  corner  of  Avenue  A  and 
3rd  street  are  the  ruins  of  the  old  Dominican  Chwrch  with  a 
little  statue  still  standing  over  the  entrance.  The  woodwork 
was  burned  in  the  fire  of  1756  and  it  was  never  rebuilt.  One 
of  the  arches  was  shattered  in  the  earthquake  of  1882.  A 
brick  arch  near  the  entrance,  50  feet  wide  with  but  10  feet  be- 
tween the  heights  of  spring  and  arch,  is  unusually  flat.  There 
are  others,  in  the  San  Francisco  and  Jesuit  churches,  of  almost 
the  same  style. 

A  church  and  convent  school  erected  by  the  Jesuits  1749- 
1751  was  of  little  service,  as  the  Order  was  expelled  in  1767. 
In  1781  the  wood  of  the  structure  was  burned,  but  the  ruins 
are  still  of  interest.  The  churches  of  La  Merced  and  Santa 
Ana  contain  little  to  invite  attention,  unless  it  be  the  effigy 
of  the  gentleman  who  provided  the  funds  for  the  reconstruc- 
tion in  1760  of  the  latter  church  and  who  was  thereafter  called 
the  Count  of  Santa  Ana. 

A  visit  to  Ancon  must  certainly  not  be  neglected.  On  its 
edge  is  the  Panama  National  Institute  opened  in  1911,  con- 
sisting of  seven  buildings  around  a  patio,  including  a  gym- 
nasium. This  is  to  be  the  head  of  the  educational  system,  but 
at  present  is  occupied  with  primary  and  secondary  instruction. 
•  Ancon  Hill  is  especially  noted  for  the  hospital,  the  buildings 
of  which  were  erected  by  the  French  soon  after  1881.  When 
Col.  Gorgas  and  his  assistants  arrived  in  1904  they  were 
pleased  to  find  them  in  so  excellent  a  condition  with  French 
Sisters  of  St.  Vincent  still  in  charge.  Many  additions  and  im- 
provements were  made,  but  most  of  the  twenty-three  buildings 


34  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

are  still  in  use.    With  crowding,  2000  patients  may  be  ac- 
commodated, but  for  the  last  five  years  the  percentage  of 
health  has  been  remarkably  good.    Thanks  to  the  skill  and 
efficiency  of  Col.  W.  C.  Gorgas,  of  the  Regular  Army,  as  Health 
Officer,  and  to  his  corps  of  able  assistants,  yellow  fever  was 
practically  stamped  out  in  1906  and  malaria  diminished,  by 
the  destruction  of  the  mosquitoes,  screening,  etc.    Swamps 
were  filled  in,  and  the  cities  of  Panama  and  Colon  were  to 
some  extent  made  over.    Every  street  in  Panama  is  now  paved 
with  brick  or  macadam,  all  are  well  drained  and  provided  with 
sewers,  and  the  dirtiest  slum  of  the  city  is  cleaner  than  many 
middle  class  streets  in  most  American  cities,  not  to  mention 
New  York.    A  good  water  supply  is  provided,  and  all  these 
improvements  are  being  paid  for  by  Panama  from  the  water 
rates.    The  Administration  Building  on  one  of  the  knolls  at 
the  foot  of  the  hill  should  be  noted.    There  are  located  the 
offifces  of  the  Sanitation  Department,  the  Civil  Administra- 
tion, and  the  Commission  Secretary.    The  Avenue  of  Royal 
Palms  leading  up  from  the  entrance  to  the  hospital  grounds 
will  be  admired  by  every  one,  and  those  of  botanical  tastes 
will  enjoy  spending  a  considerable  time  in  the  garden  which 
was  begun  by  the  Mother  Superior,  Sister  Marie  Rouleau, 
and  which  has  recently  been  catalogued  by  Col.  Mason.    It 
contains  a  fine  collection  of  the  plant  life  of  the  Isthmus,  trees, 
fruits,  nuts,  shrubs,  and  flowers.    Persons  not  botanists  will 
find  pleasure  in  examining  many  plants  with  familiar  names, 
some  never  seen  before,  others  only  in  a  hot  house.    The  en- 
ergetic individual  will  enjoy  climbing  to  the  top  of  the  hill 
which,  664  feet  above  the  sea,  affords  a  view  of  bay,  islands, 
city,  and  green  hills,  beautiful  enough  to  reward  even  the 
slothful:  but  near  sunrise  or  sunset  are  the  only  suitable  hours 
for  a  climb  in  this  temperature. 

Old  Panama.  An  excursion  to  Old  Panama  should  be  taken 
if  possible.  In  1911  a  road  was  constructed  by  the  Panama 
Government  from  the  highway  traversing  Las  Sabanas,  to  the 
old  city.  Electric  cars  may  be  available  for  the  excursion,  as 
well  as  carriage  and  automobile.  Also  one  may  go  by  launch 
or  horseback.  Paths  lead  to  the  chief  points  of  interest, — the 
old  bridges  across  the  estuary  that  extended  on  two  sides 


PANAMA  CITY  35 

of  the  city,  the  tower  seen  from  afar  and  the  church  of  St. 
Anastasius,  the  wells,  and  the  walls  and  foundations  of  public 
buildings.  On  the  sea  side  is  a  hole  in  the  wall  where  still 
may  be  seen  the  old  paved  road  leading  into  the  water.  At 
high  tide  ships  could  come  up  to  the  city  gate. 


CHAPTEE  V 
STEAMSHIP  LINES  ON  THE  WEST   COAST 

SIDE  TRIP  TO  ECUADOR 

Panama  to  Callao  and  Valparaiso — The  Pacific  Steam  Navigation 
Company;  and  Compania  SucUAmerieana  de  Vapores — each  with 
sailings  alternate  Mondays;  the  Compania  Peruana  de  Vapores — 
sailings  alternate  Mondays  to  Valparaiso,  alternate  Sundays  as 
far  as  Mollendo. 

^Panama  to  Guayaquil — The  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company — 
two  steamers  weekly;  one  express  direct,  one  accommodation,  calling 
at  Colombia  and  Ecuador  ports.  The  Compania  Peruana  de 
Vapores — fortnightly,  on  Sundays,  direct. 

Guayaquil  to  Callao — The  Pacific  Steam  Navigation  Company; 
the  Compania  Sud-Americana  de  Vapores — alternate  sailings  weekly 
on  "Wednesdays;  the  Compania  Peruana  de  Vapores — fortnightly 
sailings  on  Wednesdays. 

THE  traveler  going  southward  from  Panama  to  Callao  or  be- 
yond has  at  present  a  choice  of  ships  on  three  different  lines  : 
Peruvian,  English,  and  Chilian;  the  second,  often  called  the 
P.  S.  N.,  now  a  branch  of  the  Royal  Mail;  the  third,  that  of 
the  Compania  Sud-Americana  de  Vapores.  The  through 
ticket  purchased  in  New  York  to  a  South  American  port,  or  a 
roundtrip  ticket,  good  on  any  of  these  lines,  will  not  le  ac- 
cepted on  the  steamers  for  transportation.  Being  certificates 
merely,  they  must  be  exchanged  for  tickets  in  Panama  at  the 
office  of  that  steamship  line  by  which  one  has  decided  to  sail. 
The  cabin  may  there  be  selected  and  assigned. 

As  the  boats  vary  in  size  and  speed,  individually,  rather  than 
according  to  the  line,  travelers  are  apt  to  go  by  the  first 
steamer  sailing  after  they  are  ready  to  depart;  yet  some  have  a 
preference  and  arrange  their  plans  accordingly.  Peruvians 
and  Chilians  are  likely  to  patronize  their  respective  lines; 
some  English  speaking  people  prefer  the  P.  S.  N.  Others  have 

36 


WEST  COAST  STEAMSHIPS  37 

a  favorite  ship  or  captain.  Since  the  chief  officers  on  most 
of  the  ships  of  all  the  lines  are  British,  while  the  subordinates, 
stewards,  cabin  boys,  etc.,  are  Spanish  Americans,  the  differ- 
ence is  not  striking,  although  the  P.  S.  N.  boats  seem  a  trifle 
more  English.  On  these  the  menu  is  in  English  and  Spanish 
both,  on  the  Chilian  Line  in  Spanish  only.  The  boats  of  the 
Peruvian  Line,  the  newest  and  the  largest,  are  preferred  by 
some  Americans  who  have  tried  all  of  the  lines.  The  various 
steamers  are  lighted  by  electricity,  the  Peruvian  have  also  elec- 
tric fans,  for  the  use  of  which  a  charge  of  $1.00  is  made  for 
the  trip.  Deck  chairs  cost  $1.25.  Most  of  the  ships  on  all  lines 
have  on  the  upper  deck  a  handsome  salon  with  piano,  card 
tables,  sofas,  perhaps  a  fairly  stocked  book-case,  a  spacious 
well-furnished  dining-room,  and  a  large  comfortable  smok- 
ing room,  besides  considerable  space  for  deck  golf  and  other 
sports.  The  Peruvian  steamers  have  on  this  deck  four  cabins 
at  a  price  ten  per  cent  higher  than  those  below.  The  cabins 
in  general  are  on  the  second  deck,  all  opening  on  an  outside 
passage  with  door  and  window,  each  furnished  with  blinds. 
On  my  first  voyage  I  provided  myself  with  mosquito  netting, 
as  advised,  especially  for  the  trip  to  Guayaquil ;  but  never  had 
occasion  to  use  it.  In  the  rainy  season,  from  December  to 
June,  one  would  be  indispensable  for  the  tourist  visiting 
Ecuador,  but  is  superfluous  at  any  time  to  one  going  directly 
to  Peru.  Meal  hours  vary  slightly  on  the  different  steamers, 
but  all  serve  coffee  with  toast  or  rolls  in  cabin  or  dining-room 
from  6.30  to  8.30  a.  m.  At  last  accounts  condensed  milk,  un- 
fortunately, was  the  accompaniment.  Persons  who  object  to 
this  will  be  happier  if  they  provide  themselves  in  New  York 
with  a  few  five  cent  cans  of  the  evaporated.  On  the  East 
Coast  the  ships  appear  to  have  regular  milk,  but  as  late  as 
1911  I  saw  none  on  the  West.  The  hours  of  the  meals  are  at 
the  pleasure  of  the  captains;  on  the  English  boats  generally, 
breakfast  is  a,t  nine  or  half  past,  on  the  others  it  may  be  at 
ten  or  eleven :  luncheon  is  served  at  1, 1.30,  or  2  p.  m.,  dinner 
at  6,  6.30,  or  7.  Some  ships  have  afternoon  tea  at  four, 
others  have  tea  at  8.30  or  9  p.  m.  Breakfast,  in  Spanish, 
almuerzo,  begins  with  cazuela,  a  kind  of  soup,  which  is  fol- 
lowed by  fish,  entrees,  eggs,  beefsteak,  etc. :  at  luncheon  there 
are  cold  dishes  only,  meats  and  salad,  except  for  hot  potatoes, 


38  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tea,  and  coffee.  The  dinner  resembles  "breakfast,  but  has  a  dif- 
ferent kind  of  soup,  while  roasts  and  sweets  are  served  at  this 
meal  only.  As  many  of  the  ships  are  unprovided  with  cold 
storage,  the  meat,  eaten  the  day  after  it  is  killed,  is  often 
tough.  For  this  reason  the  boiled  meats  and  the  South  Amer- 
ican dishes  generally  are  apt  to  be  better  than  the  roasts ;  that 
is,  if  you  like  them.  It  is  well  to  have  a  try,  for  many  are 
really  good.  Of  fruit,  oranges  and  bananas  are  always  in 
evidence,  sometimes  melons,  and  paltas  (alligator  pears  or 
aguacate),  which  as  salad  are  very  fine. 

Balboa,  the  place  of  embarkation,  formerly  called  La  Boca, 
is  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  by  rail  from  the  Panama  station.  Its 
present  name,  in  honor  of  the  discoverer  of  the  Pacific,  dates 
from  April  30,  1909,  when,  adopting  the  suggestion  of  Hon. 
Alfonzo  Pezet,  then  Peruvian  Minister  to  Panama,  Colonel 
Goethals  issued  a  circular  with  the  mandate  that  La  Boca 
should  in  future  be  known  as  Balboa. 

Before  embarking  for  the  south,  it  is  important  to  look  up 
one's  baggage  and  see  that  it  is  put  on  board  the  ship  by 
which  one  is  about  to  sail.  Baggage  which  is  checked  through 
to  Callao  or  elsewhere  will  probably  be  brought  over  to  this 
port  and  remain  in  the  baggage  room  until  it  is  pointed  out  by 
the  owner  and  the  ship  is  designated  on  which  he  will  sail. 
This  is  an  absolute  necessity.  Otherwise  it  might  be  sent 
on  an  earlier  or  a  different  steamer,  when,  with  no  one  to  look 
after  it  and  pay  for  its  transport  to  land,  it  might  sail  up  and 
down  the  coast  a  year  or  two,  or  until  the  ship  people  de- 
cided to  dump  it  in  the  ocean.  Hence,  always,  look  after 
your  baggage,  throughout  the  entire  trip.  Failing  in  care, 
you  are  likely  never  to  see  it  more.  Ample  time  should  be 
allowed  for  the  purpose,  and  no  harm  will  be  done  if,  at  the 
Panama  station,  you  investigate  to  see  if  by  chance  your  bag- 
gage has  been  left  there  instead  of  at  the  Balboa  dock. 

A  matter  by  no  means  to  be  overlooked  before  embarka- 
tion is  the  procuring  of  Peruvian  money,  silver  and  gold  for 
use  on  the  steamer  and  in  landing.  English  sovereigns  and 
half  sovereigns,  equal  to  10  and  5  soles,  will  do  as  well  as  Pe- 
ruvian coins  of  the  same  value;  but  one  should  have  silver 
coins  as  well,  a  sol  equaling  48y%  cents.  Exchange  will  be 
made  at  the  banks  or  by  money  changers  in  Panama. 


SIDE  TEIP  TO  ECUADOR  39 

Tourists  will  generally  embark  at  Balboa  for  Peru;  but 
Colombia  and  Ecuador  may  be  included  in  the  tour  if  de- 
sired. Two  steamers  sail  for  Guayaquil,  one  express,  Bak- 
ing no  calls  en  route,  the  other,  caletero,  or  as  we  should 
term  it,  if  a  train,  accommodation,  calling  at  various  ports 
in  Colombia  and  Ecuador.  Buenaventura  in  Colombia  is 
the  port  for  its  capital,  Bogota,  a  city  charmingly  situated, 
with  a  delightful  climate,  containing  many  cultivated  people 
and  luxurious  homes,  yet  by  any  route  a  tedious  journey  from 
the  sea.  From  Cali  which  the  railroad  nearly  reaches,  a 
town  five  hours  by  rail  from  Buenaventura,  it  is  eight  or  ten 
days  on  mule  or  horseback.  Few  at  present  will  undertake 
the  trip  except  for  business  or  scientific  research. 

Quito,  the  capital  of  Ecuador,  far  more  accessible,  and 
oftener  visited,  will  yet  be  omitted  by  the  majority;  not  be- 
cause there  is  nothing  to  see,  but  because  one  with  limited 
time  for  the  tour  will  content  himself  with  scenes  of  more  or 
less  similar  character  on  the  direct  line  of  the  journey.  More- 
over the  reputation  of  the  port  of  Guayaquil  as  a  hot  bed 
of  yellow  fever,  to  say  nothing  of  bubonica,  leprosy,  and  small- 
pox is  such  that  most  persons  prefer  to  give  it  a  wide  berth. 
Formerly  there  was  mutual  recrimination  between  Guayaquil 
and  Panama,  each  asserting  that  the  yellow  fever  was  im- 
ported from  the  other  city ;  but  now  the  case  is  clear.  Panama 
has  long  had  a  clean  bill  of  health,  while  Guayaquil  (1912)  was 
as  bad  as  ever,  if  not  worse.  Some  years  ago  our  American 
Dr.  Lloyd  attempted  to  clean  up  the  place,  but  on  account 
of  insufficient  funds  and  authority  succeeded  in  accomplishing 
little  beyond  getting  the  yellow  fever  himself.  As  a  good 
part  of  the  city  lies  low  by  the  river's  edge,  the  problem  seems 
difficult;  yet  with  sufficient  money  its  sanitation  may  be  ac- 
complished. If  the  present  plans  of  the  Ecuadorian  Govern- 
ment are  carried  out,  by  1915  Guayaquil  will  probably  again 
,be  on  the  same  plane  of  health  as  Panama.  Should  one 
meanwhile  be  disposed  to  venture  probably  no  harm  would  be- 
fall. Dr.  Baker,  American  Consul  at  Guayaquil  states  (Dec- 
ember, 1912)  that  the  city  may  safely  be  visited  from  June 
1  to  October  1,  but  not  at  other  times. 

Furthermore,  one  desiring  to  visit  Quito,  the  equatorial 
city,  to  see  far  famed  Chimborazo,  and  Cotopaxi,  the  loftiest 


40  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUE 

of  active  volcanoes,  may  do  this  without  going  to  Guayaquil, 
or  at  least  without  staying  there,  and  thus  he  may  proceed. 

On  the  third  morning  after  leaving  Panama,  on  express 
steamer  for  Guayaquil,  one  is  likely  to  find  his  ship  anchored 
at  the  quarantine  station,  Puna,  on  an  island  at  the  mouth  of 
tbe  Guayas  Eiver.  It  is  a  pleasant  sail  north,  up  this  broad 
stream,  the  most  important  in  South  America  flowing  into 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  low  green  shores  are  heavily  fringed 
with  trees  or  bushes.  Eidges  and  peaks  of  blue  will  pres- 
ently appear,  possibly  the  snow-crowned  Chimborazo,  but 
this  on  rare  occasions  on  account  of  incessant  clouds. 

Guayaquil,  a  few  hours  from  Puna,  appears  from  the  steam- 
er's deck  a  pretty  place,  stretching  several  miles  along  the 
river  front,  a  city  of  75,000  inhabitants.  The  buildings  made 
of  wood,  plastered  over  to  resemble  marble,  look  quite  im- 
posing. There  is  a  cathedral  and  other  churches,  and  good 
public  buildings;  a  Club,  the  Union,  is  said  by  one  globe- 
trotter to  be  the  best  he  had  seen  in  the  tropics  save  one  at 
Hongkong.  "Worth  visiting  are  the  pretty  plazas  with  rare 
and  luxuriant  vegetation,  the  market,  and  a  great  hospital 
on  the  hill  above  the  town,  fitted  with  modern  appliances,  and 
comparing  favorably,  one  says,  with  the  Ancon  Hospital  at 
Panama. 

The  swift  current  of  the  river  is  noticeable,  the  strong  tide 
running  rapidly,  six  hours  each,  up  and  down.  Small  boats, 
taking  advantage  of  this,  may  thus  go  with  slight  effort  in 
either  direction,-  but  with  hard  labor  if  the  tide  is  adverse. 
Much  used  are  the  native  balsas,  made  of  tree  trunks,  five, 
seven,  or  nine  lashed  together,  many  with  small  houses  upon 
them.  With  balsas  they  even  venture  upon  the  ocean  as 
far  as  Paita.  Panama  hats  are  here  purchasable,  which  with 
cocoa  and  ivory  nuts  are  among  the  chief  exports  of  the 
country. 

To  make  the  journey  to  Quito  one  may,  the  day  of  arrival, 
cross  from  Guayaquil  by  boat  to  Duran  on  the  other  side  of  the 
river,  whence  a  railroad  leads  297  miles  to  the  capital  city. 
The  fare  from  Guayaquil  is  $17.40  each  way.  Departing 
from  Duran  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  at  6.30  a.  m., 
the  train  arrives  at  6.30  p.  m.  at  Eiobamba,  where  the  night 
LS  spent  at  the  Grand  Central  Hotel,  price  one  or  two  dollars. 


SIDE  TRIP  TO  ECUADOR  41 

Leaving  Riobamba  at  6.40  a.  m.  one  arrives  at  Quito  at  four. 
Each  day  a  halt  is  made  for  the  noon  meal  at  a  way  station. 
The  train,  at  first  passing  among  great  sugar  estates,  then 
ascending  gradually  through  a  luxuriant  tropical  region,  pres- 
ently reaches  the  higher  temperate  zone  where  by  contrast 
the  night  will  seem  decidedly  chill.  At  4000  or  5000  feet  the 
way  seems  barred  by  lofty  hills,  but  the  American  construct- 
ing engineer  cut  in  the  face  of  the  granite  a  zigzag  path  with 
switchbacks  of  four  levels  making  a  rise  to  9000  feet.  After 
some  distance  through  volcanic  country,  a  similar  cul-de-sac 
is  surmounted  by  a  similar  switchback  with  a  seven  per  cent 
grade  to  the  Pass  of  Palmyra,  12,000  feet.  Wastes  of  sand 
and  shifting  grass,  resembling  a  sea-coast,  are  an  unexpected 
variety  in  the  scenery. 

Descending  gradually  to  Cajabamba,  11,000  feet,  one  passes, 
the  first  afternoon,  splendid  Chimlorazo,  still  supposed  by 
many  to  be  the  highest  mountain  in  America,  a  great  mistake, 
as  its  altitude  is  only  20,498  feet,  more  than  that  of  Mt,  Mc- 
Kinley,  but  over  2000  feet  less  than  that  of  Aconcagua,  on  the 
border  of  Chile  and  Argentina,  the  highest  measured  mountain 
on  the  Western  Hemisphere.  Moreover,  this  tallest  of  the 
Ecuadorian  Andes  is  surpassed  by  fifty  or  more  peaks  farther 
south ;  among  these,  Huascaran  and  Coropuna  in  Peru,  niam- 
pu,  Illimani,  and  Sajama  in  Bolivia.  The  fir'st  ascent  of  Chim- 
borazo,  made  in  1880  by  Edward  Whymper  with  two  Swiss 
guides,  was  at  the  time  considered  a  wonderful  feat.  The 
same  year  Whymper  ascended  the  active  volcano,  Cotopaxi, 
19,613  feet,  farther  east  and  nearer  to  Quito.  Near  Caja- 
bamba are  a  few  remains  of  ancient  Inca  edifices. 

Beyond  Eiobamba,  a  little  farther  on,  the  road  the  second 
day  goes  lower  to  Ambato,  8000  feet,  a  town  in  a  deep  basin 
with  a  delightful  climate,  headquarters  for  trade  with  the 
Oriente.  A  broad  sterile  plain  is  crossed  near  the  foot  of  Co- 
topaxi, a  beautiful  truncated  cone,  smoking  continuously. 
Above  the  snow  clad  slopes,  a  gray  and  white  cloud  is  formed 
in  the  shape  of  an  enormous  branching  tree,  which  at  length 
breaks  off  and  floats  away.  Near  the  snow  line  of  the  volcano 
is  a  huge  mass  of  rock  called  the  Inca's  head,  said  to  have 
been  the  original  summit  of  the  mountain,  torn  off  and  hurled 
below  on  the  day  of  the  execution  of  the  Inca,  Atahuallpa. 


42  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

Beyond  the  Pass  Chasqui  is  the  charming  green  valley  Mach* 
achi.  In  a  bowl  shaped  depression  entered  by  three  gateways, 
through  one  of  which  the  railroad  passes,  crossing  a  bridge 
over  the  Machangara  Eiver,  is  found  the  white,  but  red-roofed 
city,  the  capital  famed  as  lying  under  the  equator;  it  is  within 
a  quarter  of  a  degree. 

Quito.  Beautifully  situated  among  the  mountains  at  an  alti- 
tude of  9600  feet,  Quito  enjoys  a  climate  as  delightful  as  the 
prospect.  In  former  days  travelers  have  united  their  admira- 
tion for  the  scenery  with  groans  over  the  accommodations  pro- 
vided. It  is  said  that  good  hotels  now  exist,  the  Eoyal  Palace, 
the  Hotel  de  Paris,  Hotel  Americano,  and  Casa  AzuL  The 
city  has  a  population  of  75,000,  including  many  charming  and 
cultivated  Spanish  Americans,  and  more  Indians,  who  in  gay 
ponchos  of  orange  and  scarlet  are  a  striking  contrast  to  the 
ladies  in  smart  victorias,  the  gentlemen  in  frock  coats  and 
silk  hats,  the  officers  in  dress  uniforms,  and  the  throng  of 
mules,  horses,  donkeys,  and  llamas,  frequently  crowding  the 
streets. 

On  the  principal  plaza  are  handsome  government  and  munic- 
ipal buildings,  the  cathedral,  and  the  bishop's  palace.  Among 
many  beautiful  churches  and  convents  is  the  Jesuits'  church, 
the  interior  superb  in  scarlet  and  genuine  gold,  and  its  choir 
singers  imported  from  Europe.  Quito,  too,  has  one  of  the 
prettiest  theatres  in  South  America,  which  is  saying  more 
than  you  might  imagine,  if  this  is  your  first  call  on  that  con- 
tinent. The  temperature  of  Quito  averaging  60°,  ranging 
from  50°  to  70°  only,  is  comfortable  enough  to  make 
exercise  desirable,  and  variety  is  easily  attained.  A  half 
day's  journey  will  bring  one  to  a  deep  sultry  valley  with 
tropical  vegetation;  hence  every  kind  of  fruit  and  vege- 
table is  in  the  market.  Or  four  hours  will  take  one  to 
i  region  of  eternal  frost.  And  thither  every  one  should  go,  for 
from  the  top  of  Mt.  Pichincha,  16,000  feet,  at  the  foot  of 
which  is  Quito,  may  be  had  a  splendid  view  of  twenty  snow- 
3lad  peaks,  from  15,000  to  20,000  feet  in  height. 


CHAPTER  VI 
ON  THE  WAY  TO  CALLAO 

ON  board  ship  at  the  Balboa  docks,  recently  enlarged  by 
the  United  States  Government,  the  surroundings  at  high  tide 
are  beautiful.  On  three  sides  are  green  wooded  hills,  some 
of  which  might  almost  be  dignified  as  mountains.  The  wide 
stream  coming  down  at  the  northwest  is  the  Pacific  entrance 
to  the  Canal.  Below  are  pretty  islands  to  one  of  which,  Naos, 
the  breakwater,  three  and  a  quarter  miles  long,  will  extend. 
At  low  tide,  when  the  water  has  fallen  18  feet,  as  it  does  twice 
in  the  twenty-four  hours,  an  ugly  expanse  of  flats  is  visible  on 
each  side  of  the  channel.  Should  one  spend  the  night  here, 
he  may  be  so  fortunate  as  to  see  the  sun  or  moon  rise,  not  set, 
from  the  Pacific  Ocean;  so  far  west  is  Panama  City  of  the 
western  shore  of  South  America,  at  least  of  Colombia,  for  the 
Isthmus  runs  east  and  west  instead  of  north  and  south. 

As  the  steamer  leaves  the  dock,  one  should  linger  in  the 
stern  of  the  vessel  to  look  back  at  the  charming  picture. 
Thus  standing  and  gazing  rearwards,  the  city  of  Panama  will 
soon  appear  on  the  right,  finely  situated  on  a  promontory  with 
water  on  three  sides,  thus  with  excellent  opportunities  for 
drainage,  and  now  as  healthy  a  city  as  may  be  found  in  the 
Torrid  Zone,  surpassing  in  this  particular  many  of  those  in 
temperate  climes. 

The  Peaceful  Ocean  will  gently  "  Eock  the  Cradle  of  the 
Deep"  and  the  voyage  will  be  a  pleasure.  Formerly  ten  days 
to  Callao,  it  is  now  six  or  seven.  The  weather  is  warm,  with 
summer  clothes  in  order,  probably  until  Paita  is  reached; 
so  warm  that  enthusiasts  only  will  care  for  the  vigorous 
exercise  of  deck  golf,  yet  not  uncomfortably  hot.  The  cross- 
ing of  the  equator  is  made  without  ceremony:  even  with 
careful  inquiry  it  is  difficult  to  ascertain  just  when  the  equi- 
noctial line  is  passed.  The  Pole  star  has  vanished,  yet  in 

43 


44  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

our  summer  months  a  part  of  the  constellation  of  the  Dipper, 
still  above  the  horizon,  may  be  recognized  far  down  the  coast. 
With  no  sight  of  land  for  three  days,  there  will  be  time 
on  this  tranquil  sea  to  brush  up  our  Spanish,  or  if  we  have 
none  to  brush,  at  least  to  pick  up  a  few  words  and  phrases. 
Or  there  is  opportunity  for  a  brief  review  of  South  Amer- 
ican history.  Prescott  perchance  is  in  the  library,  or  other 
books,  historical  or  descriptive,  of  the  various  countries  to 
be  visited.  That  we  see  only  what  we  are  prepared  to  see 
is  an  old  saying,  as  true  of  South  America  as  of  Europe. 
A  slight  knowledge  of  South  American  history  and  of  present 
conditions  will  illumine  the  journey,  increasing  both  pleasure 
and  profit.  A  course  of  reading  at  home  and  a  little  study  of 
Spanish  will  bring  infinite  reward.  For  those  who  have  neg- 
lected this,  brief  allusions  to  facts  of  history,  geography,  etc., 
;will  be  scattered  here  and  there. 

A  BIT  or  HISTORY 

Every  one  has  heard  of  the  Incas  and  of  the  conquest  of  Peru 
by  Pizarro,  but  a  few  particulars  of  the  remarkable  subjugation  of 
a  great  people  will  here  be  recalled.  As  early  as  1524  Francisco 
Pizarro,  incited  by  rumors  at  Panama  of  a  country  at  the  south 
marvellously  rich  in  gold,  for  the  purpose  of  exploration  only, 
made  his  first  expedition  to  Peru.  Landing  at  Tumbes  on  the 
south  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Guayaquil,  he  found  an  opulent  city, 
whence  he  proceeded  along  the  coast  as  far  as  Trujillo.  Satisfied  by 
this  reconnoissanee  as  to  the  great  wealth  of  the  country,  he  was 
obliged  to  return  to  Spain  to  procure  royal  warrant  for  the  in- 
vasion. This  gained  he  set  out  from  Panama  in  January,  1531, 
upon  his  extraordinary  career  of  conquest.  Partners  in  his  ad- 
venture were  Diego  de  Almagro  and  a  priest,  Hernando  de  Luque. 

Again  landing  at  Tumbes  he  advanced  overland  southward  and 
in  a  fertile  valley  founded  the  present  city  of  Pium  Some  months 
were  here  passed,  a  vain  delay  for  reinforcements;  Pizarro  mean- 
while learning  of  the  quarrel  between  the  two  Inca  princes,  the 
brothers  Atahuallpa  and  Huasear,  and  that  the  former,  victorious, 
was  now  with  a  large  retinue,  ten  days'  journey  from  Piura,  at  the 
town  of  Cajamarca  whither  he  had  gone  to  take  the  baths. 

To  attempt  the  conquest  of  a  great  empire  with  an  army  of  less 
than  200  men  seems  preposterous  indeed,  but  the  bold,  one  would 
say  insane,  Pizarro,  had  he  not  succeeded,  at  length  set  out  with 
180  men,  67  of  whom  were  cavalry.  However,  these  last  were 


ON  THE  WAY  TO  CALLAO  45 

equivalent  to  a  mighty  host;  for  horses,  never  before  seen  in  this 
country,  struck  terror  to  the  stoutest  hearts.  It  was  a  hard  march 
across  the  desert,  then  up  over  the  great  coast  range  of  the  Andes 
down  to  the  longitudinal  valley  in  which  Cajamarea  is  situated. 
On  the  way  they  were  met  by  messengers  bearing  royal  gifts,  with 
an  invitation  to  visit  the  powerful  ruler  of  this  immense  empire. 
Through  narrow  defiles  where  a  large  force  might  easily  have  been 
annihilated,  the  little  army  was  permitted  to  march  in  safety. 
Upwards  in  bitter  cold  and  rarefied  air  they  toiled  to  a  height  of 
12,000  feet  or  more  until  they  looked  down  upon  a  beautiful  valley, 
a  prosperous  city,  and  the  camp  of  a  great  army. 

With  bold  faces  if  quaking  hearts  they  descended,  November  15, 
1532,  to  the  city  which  they  found  deserted:  that  better  accommoda- 
tions, it  was  said,  might  be  furnished  to  the  distinguished  guests. 
The  next  day,  accepting  the  invitation  of  Pizarro  that  he  should 
dine  with  him,  Atahuallpa  with  a  large  retinue,  unarmed,  came  in 
royal  state  to  the  Plaza.  In  place  of  the  courteous  greeting  from 
Pizarro  which  was  here  due,  a  priest,  Father  Valverde,  came  for- 
ward. Having  expounded  the  chief  doctrines  of  the  Christian  re- 
ligion he  thereupon  demanded  the  Inea's  allegiance  to  the  Pope  and 
to  the  Emperor  Charles  V.  Upon  Atahuallpa's  indignant  rejection 
of  this  piece  of  bold  and  insolent  presumption,  Yalverde  called  on 
Pizarro  to  make  an  assault.  The  signal  was  given,  guns  boomed,  the 
cavalry  charged  upon  the  defenseless  throng.  Instead  of  the  hos- 
pitality that  had  been  proffered  there  was  a  scene  of  terrible 
slaughter.  The  Inca  was  seized  and  imprisoned,  after  which  a  ran- 
som was  arranged.  The  collection  for  this  purpose  of  more  than 
$15,000,000  worth  of  gold  dishes,  plate,  and  other  objects  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  second  act  of  perfidy.  Accused  of  various  crimes,  Ata- 
huallpa, instead  of  being  released,  was  condemned  to  be  burned  at 
the  stake;  or  if  he  would  consent  to  embrace  Christianity  to  have 
the  easier  death  of  strangulation.  This  he  chose.  Thus  the  courtly 
monarch  of  this  highly  civilized  empire,  one  of  the  first  on  that  con- 
tinent to  be  baptized  (revolting  mockery)  into  the  Christian  faith, 
was  ignominiously  put  to  death  after  the  most  shameless  betrayal  of 
the  rites  of  hospitality,  the  most  brutal  treachery,  to  be  found  on 
the  pages  of  history. 

Thus  was  accomplished  the  conquest  of  Peru.  The  Inca  exe- 
cuted, his  humble  subjects  made  but  little  and  sporadic  resistance. 
Cuzco,  the  capital  city,  was  visited  and  stripped  of  many  of  its 
treasures.  For  the  conciliation  of  the  populace,  Maneo,  a  younger 
brother  of  Atahuallpa,  was  crowned ;  but  the  real  power  was  placed 
in  the  hands  of  one  of  Pizarro's  brothers. 

Francisco  then  descended  to  the  coast  and,  on  January  6,  1535, 


46  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

founded  on  the  banks  of  the  Rimae,  a  capital  which  he  named  City 
of  the  Kings  in  honor  of  the  Epiphany,  although  Lima,  a  corruption 
of  Rimae,  is  the  title  by  which  it  has  been  called.  Such  a  beginning 
was  naturally  followed  by  a  period  of  dissensions  and  murders, 
which  lasted  twenty  years.  For  nearly  three  centuries  a  Spanish 
Viceroy  ruled  over  the  country,  until  in  1824,  at  Ayacucho  on  the 
highlands  of  Peru,  the  last  battle  of  independence  was  fought,  the 
whole  of  South  America  was  liberated  from  the  domination  of  Spain, 
and  the  realms  of  the  Inea  became  free  to  develop  a  new  civilization. 

Panama  to  Salaverry.  For  three  days  after  leaving 
Panama  the  ship  is  out  of  sight  of  land,  which  is  again  ap- 
proached near  the  northern  extremity  of  Pern.  This  coast 
is  unlike  that  of  any  other  country  in  the  world,  to  the  unini- 
tiated presenting  a  series  of  surprises.  The  first  is  the  climate, 
which  in  the  Torrid  Zone  one  naturaity  expects  to  be  hot,  at 
least  at  sea  level.  On  the  East  Coast  of  South  America  this 
is  the  case,  but  not  on  the  West  after  reaching  Peru.  Pan- 
ama, Colombia,  and  Ecuador  have  ordinary  tropical  weather, 
continuous  heat  with  plenty  of  rain  and  luxuriant  vegetation. 
Peru  is  in  striking  contrast.  From  Paita,  5°  south  of  the 
equator,  throughout  the  journey  of  1200  miles  along  the  coast, 
all  within  the  tropics,  the  weather  is  so  cool  at  least  half  of 
the  year  that  exercise  is  a  pleasure,  while  wraps  and  steamer 
rugs  are  frequently  desirable.  Of  this  moderate  temperature 
the  chief  cause  is  the  Antarctic  or  Humboldt  current,  which 
flows  along  the  coast  from  the  South  Polar  regions  until,  at 
Point  Parina,  the  western  extremity  of  South  America,  it 
meets  a  hot  stream  and  both  turn  westward  across  the  Pacific. 
The  proximity  to  the  sea  of  the  lofty  range  of  the  Andes  also 
contributes  to  the  coolness. 

Another  surprising  phenomenon  is  the  barren  shore.  The 
entire  coast  for  2000  miles,  from  Tunabes,  to  Coquimbo  in 
Chile,  is  a  genuine  desert,  save  where,  at  considerable  inter- 
vals, the  fifty-eight  streams  in  Peru,  coming  down  from  the 
mountains,  afford  opportunity  for  irrigation.  The  lack  of 
verdure  in  Peru  is  not  occasioned  by  the  character  of  the  soil ; 
it  arises  simply  from  the  absence  of  rain. 

Paita.  The  fourth  morning  after  leaving  Panama  the  ship 
is  likely  to  be  at  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Paita,  having  passed 
in  the  night  the  more  northern  Peruvian  shore,  Otherwise 


ON  THE  WAT  TO  CALLAO  47 

one  might  from  a  distance  perceive  near  Point  Parina  the 
pipes  and  derricks  of  many  oil  wells.  For  the  petroleum  in- 
dustry is  important  in  Peru.  In  this  Department,  Piura,  the 
oil  regions  cover  an  area  as  large  as  Holland.  It  is  said  that 
the  petroleum  is  superior  to  that  of  the  United  States,  having 
little  paraffine  and  no  odor;  that  the  kerosene  gives  a  better 
light,  and  that  the  crude  oil  may  be  employed  as  fuel  after 
merely  standing  a  few  days  in  the  open  air.  For  the  last  ten 
years  the  oil  has  been  thus  used  in  the  locomotives  of  the 
Oroya  Railway;  it  is  now  similarly  employed  on  the  Peruvian 
steamers.  There  is  a  great  field  for  the  development  of  the 
industry  in  this  and  other  districts  of  the  country. 

After  several  days  on  board  ship  most  of  the  passengers 
improve  the  opportunity  of  going  ashore.  The  regular  fare 
as  at  other  ports  is  forty  centavos  (twenty  cents)  each  way 
for  each  person.  Paita  is  a  curious  place,  a  small  village,  yet 
the  third  port  in  Peru  in  the  amount  of  exports  and  imports, 
serving  a  considerable  district  including  the  city  of  Piura, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  a  railroad  of  standard  gauge. 
The  walls  of  the  houses  are  of  bamboo,  set  perpendicularly, 
some  overspread  with  plaster  often  partly  peeled  off,  others 
destitute  of  covering.  Climbing  the  hills  back  of  the  town 
you  will  perceive  a  genuine  desert,  in  the  distance  fringed 
by  low  mountains.  " Paita,"  said  the  Captain  on  my  first 
voyage  in  1903,  "is  the  dryest  place  on  earth."  From  its 
appearance  I  was  not  inclined  to  dispute  the  fact,  but  having 
heard  that  it  rains  there  once  in  seven  years  and  in  Iquique 
not  at  all  I  inquired  how  this  might  be.  "That  is  easy," 
replied  the  Captain.  "  In  Iquique  there  are  heavy  dews,  here 
nothing,  and  now  it  has  skipped  one  shower  and  it  is  almost 
fourteen  years  since  it  has  rained."  This  was  no  idle  jest. 
The  drought  continued  until  February,  1910,  when  there  was 
a  heavy  shower,  the  first  in  nineteen  years.  There  are  no 
wells,  hence  all  water  is  brought  by  rail  and  sparingly  used  ; 
therefore  there  is  no  green.  The  town  of  Piura,  on  the  con- 
trary, 60  miles  distant,  is  in  an  irrigated  valley  where  the 
finest  cotton  is  a  staple  production  and  where  new  irrigation 
canals  are  increasing  the  possibilities  for  agriculture.  A  few 
miles  farther  is  Catacaos,  where  half  of  the  20;000  inhabitants 
are  engaged  in  making  the  260,000  Panama  hats  here  annually 


48  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

produced.  While  Ecuador  is  the  chief  seat  of  the  industry, 
hats  may  be  purchased  at  Paita  to  better  advantage  than  at 
Guayaquil.  The  natives  who  come  on  board  ship  bring 
various  articles  for  sale,  paroquets,  mocking-birds,  fruit,  pot- 
tery, ancient  and  modern,  as  well  as  the  Panama  hats.  These 
of  good  quality  may  be  purchased  at  from  $2.00  to  $12  or 
$15  gold,  the  latter  of  the  Monte  Christo  quality,  all  at  about 
one-fourth  of  the  price  commonly  asked  for  a  similar  article 
in  New  York.  The  best  are  rarely  found  in  the  United  States 
at  any  price. 

Some  day  Paita  with  its  excellent  harbor  will  become  a 
port  of  great  importance.  A  railroad  400  miles  long  is  planned 
and  has  been  surveyed  to  Melendez  on  the  Maranon,  the  larger 
of  the  two  rivers  (the  other,  the  Ucayali)  uniting  to  form  the 
Amazon.  Crossing  the  Andes  in  one  of  its  lowest  sections, 
where  a  short  tunnel  at  5000  feet  altitude  will  serve  instead 
of  the  long  ones,  above  10,000  and  15,000  feet,  through  the 
mountains  farther  south,  this  road  will  bring  the  rubber  coun- 
try in  the  neighborhood  of  Iquitos,  the  chief  port  on  the  upper 
Amazon,  within  two  weeks  of  New  York,  instead  of  the  four 
or  five  weeks  by  way  of  Para.  On  this  route,  too,  are  said  to 
be  millions  of  tons  of  iron,  as  well  as  coal  and  other  minerals. 

On  leaving  Paita,  if  not  before,  the  tourist  will  be  likely 
to  feel  the  need  of  heavier  underwear.  The  air  in  winter  is 
damp  and  chilly.  The  temperature  in  my  cabin  was  60°. 
At  this  season  clouds  generally  conceal  the  sun,  making  a 
gloomy  sea,  and  the  little  patches  of  blue  sky  are  small. 

Eten,  the  next  port,  161  miles  farther  south,  the  ship  is 
likely  to  reach  the  next  morning.  An  iron  pier  2000  feet 
long  is  noticeable,  though  a  good  distance  away.  Callao  is  the 
only  seaport  below  Panama  having  docks  which  may  be 
approached  by  large  ships.  The  slope  of  the  beaches  is  so 
gradual  that  even  for  the  use  of  the  lighters  long  piers  are 
necessary.  Eten  has  an  especially  poor  anchorage,  an  open 
roadstead  where  there  is  often  a  moderate  swell,  so  that  the 
passing  traveler  seldom  goes  ashore.  Frequently  passengers 
must  be  taken  on  board  by  means  of  a  sort  of  barrel  or  hogs- 
head destitute  of  one  side.  One  person  sits,  another  stands 
on  the  edge.  Thus  they  are  raised  with  windlass,  chain,  and 
pulley,  and  gently  deposited  on  deck. 


ON  THE  WAY  TO  CALLAO  49 

Pacasmayo,  34  miles  farther,  is  usually  visited  the  same 
day.  This  is  quite  a  town  with  a  railroad  running  85  miles 
up  country,  some  day  to  be  prolonged  to  Cajamarea,  now 
rather  difficult  of  access. 

The  coast  presents  for  the  most  part  a  study  in  browns, 
diversified  by  occasional  patches  of  green,  the  size  of  which 
varies  with  that  of  the  stream  coming  down  from  the  moun- 
tains and  the  extent  of  irrigation  in  the  valley.  The  great 
mountain  range  is  surprisingly  near  the  sea.  There  are 
indeed  foothills,  and  in  the  northern  and  southern  sections  of 
Peru,  back  of  the  high  bluffs  which  generally  line  the  coast, 
a  plain  stretches  away  to  lofty  mountains.  These,  however, 
are  near  enough  to  be  always  in  sight  if  it  were  not  for  another 
peculiarity  of  this  rainless  coast,  the  low  clouds  or  mist  which 
too  often  conceal  or  obscure  them.  Along  the  central  portion 
of  Peru  beginning  with  Salaverry,  the  mountains  come  down 
to  the  shore  in  many  bold  headlands  and  are  sometimes  so 
disposed  as  to  present  an  appearance  of  several  ranges  of 
varying  altitudes,  the  rearmost,  a  frowning  almost  perpen- 
dicular black  wall,  which,  back  of  Chimbote  and  Samanco, 
rises  to  the  extraordinary  height  of  15,000  to  18,000  feet. 
Barely,  a  snow-crowned  summit  is  there  seen  peeping  over  a 
depression  in  the  Black  Eange,  the  north  peak  of  the  great 
Huascardn,  21,812  feet  above  the  sea,  first  ascended  in  1908 
by  Miss  Annie  S.  Peck  with  two  Swiss  guides.  At  present 
Huascaran  is  called  the  second  highest  measured  mountain  in 
America,  but  it  is  far  more  difficult  to  climb  than  Aconcagua, 
now  holding  first  place.  Had  one  a  clear  view  of  these  great 
ranges,  the  voyage  to  the  mountain  lover  would  be  of  real 
"fascination.  As  it  is,  the  long  halts  at  the  various  ports  to 
discharge  and  receive  freight  become  a  trifle  monotonous. 
Possibly,  after  the  opening  of  the  Canal,  there  will  be  through 
service  with  direct  express  to  Callao  from  Panama, 


CHAPTER  VII 

SALAVERRY—  CHAN  CHAN— CHIMBOTE— 
THE  HUAILAS  VALLEY 

Salaverry,  66  miles  from  Pacasmayo,  is  usually  reached 
during  the  night.  At  this  port  a  few  tourists  may  be  tempted 
to  disembark,  perhaps  with  two  objects  in  view;  one  to  visit 
the  ancient  city  of  Chan  Chan,  the  flourishing  city  of  Trujillo, 
and  the  great  sugar  plantations  of  the  valley;  the  other,  for 
the  purpose  of  transferring  to  the  caletero  boat,  in  order  to 
land  at  Chimbote  or  Samanco,  thence  to  visit  the  Huailas  Val- 
ley to  admire  its  magnificent  scenery,  including  the  peerless 
Huasearan.  By  taking  at  Panama  the  Sunday  steamer  (fort- 
nightly) of  the  Peruvian  Line,  one  may  land  at  Chimbote  or 
Samanco  without  change. 

Salaverry,  with  one  or  two  hundred  houses  on  the  desert 
shore,  is  a  port  merely,  near  a  bold  bluff  which  helps  to  make 
a  fair  harbor.  A  great  quantity  of  sugar  from  the  Chicama 
&nd  Santa  Catalina  Valleys  is  the  chief  export. 

Trujillo,  eight  miles  by  rail  from  the  harbor,  is  a  pretty  city 
of  10,000  people.  Founded  by  Pizarro  in  1535  near  the  ruined 
capital  of  the  Grand  Chimu,  it  is  one  of  the  most  aristocratic 
of  Peruvian  cities.  First  among  these  to  proclaim  independ- 
ence, December  22,  1820,  the  Department  received  from 
Bolivar  the  name  La  Libertad.  Trujillo  possesses  a  pretty 
shaded  plaza,  fashionable  for  the  evening  promenade,  several 
convents,  and  interesting  churches,  one  of  which,  the  San 
Augustin,  is  noteworthy  on  account  of  the  excellent  carving 
and  rich  gilding  of  the  pulpit  and  high  altar.  It  has  a  hos- 
pital, a  university,  a  club,  a  hippodrome,  a  theater,  and  three 
daily  papers;  also,  most  important  to  the  traveler,  a  respect- 
able but  far  from  luxurious  hotel  providing  rooms,  while  fair 
meals  may  be  procured  at  a  Chinese  restaurant  close  by. 

Sugar  Estates.  Well  worth  a  visit  are  the  splendid  sugar 
estates  up  the  Chicama  Valley,  Casa  Grande,  Roma,  Cartavio* 

60 


SUGAE  ESTATES  AND  CHAN  CHAN     51 

and  others.  The  first,  an  hour  by  rail  from  Trujillo,  is  said 
to  be  the  largest  sugar  plantation  in  the  world,  containing  a 
total  population  of  11,000,  one-fourth  of  which  is  engaged  in 
labor  in  the  fields  or  mills.  This  valley,  which  in  the  time 
of  the  Grand  Chimu  supported  a  great  population,  was  in  the 
last  century  almost  a  barren  desert  up  to  1873,  when  a  German 
visiting  the  valley  discovered  the  ancient  irrigating  canal, 
bought  up  land,  and  soon  made  the  desert  blossom  as  the  rose. 
This  valley  produces  more  sugar  than  the  entire  island  of 
Porto  Eico,  sugar  of  the  finest  quality.  In  the  temperate, 
equable  climate,  the  cane  all  along  the  coast  matures  early,  is 
unusually  rich  in  sugar,  and  may  be  cut  all  the  year  around. 
It  may  be  raised  at  a  profit  if  sold  at  1%  cents  a  pound.  The 
estates  have  the  best  of  machinery,  and  expert  managers 
who  employ  the  latest  and  the  most  approved  methods. 
Churches,  schools,  and  hospitals  are  provided.  The  dwellings 
of  the  proprietors  and  superintendents  contain  most  of  the 
conveniences  and  luxuries  of  modern  life,  including  tele- 
phones. The  annual  export  of  sugar  from  Salaverry  amounts 
to  50,000  tons,  and  from  Huanchacho  near  by  to  half  as  much 
more.  Within  30  miles  of  Salaverry  are  also  rich  copper  and 
silver  mines,  far  more  accessible  than  those  on  the  plateau 
region  above,  and  with  a  more  agreeable  climate.  Their  de- 
velopment on  a  large  scale  will  not  long  be  delayed. 

Chan  Chan.  The  tourist  who  is  not  a  possible  investor  or 
looking  after  commercial  interests  may  rather  turn  his  atten- 
tion to  the  great  ruins  north  of  Trujillo  on  the  road  to  the 
small  seaport,  Huanchacho.  Every  one  interested  in  an- 
tiquities should  visit  the  ruins  of  Chan  Chan,  the  largest  and 
most  important  of  the  dead  cities  on  our  western  coast.  For 
a  good  pedestrian  it  is  a  moderate  walk  from  Trujillo,  though 
a  horse  may  well  serve  the  majority.  Here  the  Grand  Chimu 
once  ruled  over  the  twenty  northern  valleys  of  the  Peruvian 
coast,  from  Tumbes  on  the  north  to  Supe,  well  towards  the 
Eimac  valley  on  the  south.  Here  was  a  civilization  entirely 
distinct  from  that  of  the  Incas,  unhappily  overthrown,  by  them 
some  four  generations  before  the  Conquest  by  Pizarro.  A 
fertile  plain  90  miles  long  was  watered  from  three  rivers  by 
a  remarkable  system  of  irrigation.  An  aqueduct  tapping  the 
Muchi  Eiver  high  up  in  the  mountains  carried  water  across  the 


52  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

valley  on  an  embankment  60  feet  high.  Remains  of  a  great 
reservoir  between  Trujillo  and  Casa  Grande  indicate  a  capacity 
of  two  billion  cubic  feet  of  water.  The  city  itself,  open  to 
the  sea,  was  protected  on  the  east  from  land  invaders  by  a 
thick  and  lofty  wall  extending  for  miles  along  its  borders. 
That  it  was  at  last  compelled  to  succumb  to  the  Incas  is  believed 
to  be  because  these  succeeded  in  diverting  the  water  supply. 

The  site  of  Chan  Chan,  once  probably  the  largest  city  in 
the  New  World,  with  an  area  of  fifty  or  sixty  square  miles,  is 
now  a  melancholy  spectacle.  What  ruthless  destruction  has 
been  wrought!  What  loss  to  the  human  race,  through  the 
overthrow  of  ancient  civilization,  again  and  again  followed  by 
relapses  into  partial  or  complete  barbarism  and  toilsome  prog- 
ress upward !  Will  people  ever  learn  to  moderate  their  greed 
for  wealth  and  power,  and  suffer  others  to  dwell  in  peace  after 
their  own  fashion! 

For  a  cursory  or  careful  inspection  of  the  ruins  a  guide 
should  be  employed,  as  wandering  at  random  one  may  miss 
or  fail  to  understand  the  most  important  remains.  In  the 
labyrinth  of  walls  with  various  enclosures  containing  numer- 
ous buildings,  an  immense  mound  is  an  occasional  feature. 
One  built  of  stone  and  rubble,  150  feet  high,  called  Obispo, 
covers  an  area  of  500  square  feet.  To  the  casual  observer 
the  design  would  not  be  obvious.  Originally  the  mounds  were 
in  terraces,  upon  which  buildings  were  erected  with  various 
passages  leading  to  store  rooms  or  burial  chambers  in  the  in- 
terior. With  gardens  around  their  base  a  splendid  effect 
must  have  been  created.  The  Spaniards  early  searched  these 
mounds  for  .treasure,  with  great  success.  From  one  called 
the  Toledo  three  million  dollars  are  said  to  have  been  taken  ; 
from  the  entire  city  $15,000,000.  A  broad  lower  mound 
proved  to  be  a  cemetery,  where  in  niches  were  found  mum- 
mies in  elaborate  garments  of  fine  cotton  adorned  with  gold 
and  silver.  In  the  center  is  a  structure  doubtless  for  the  per- 
formance of  the  funeral  rites. 

The  great  palace  of  the  Chimu  enclosed  a  large  hall  100  by 
52%  feet.  Its  walls,  containing  a  series  of  niches,  were  covered 
between  with  stucco  relief  work  in  arabesque  patterns.  Two 
structures  of  unusual  form  are  believed  to  be  factories.  Ar- 
ranged around  a  square  which  had  a  reservoir  in  the  center 


RUINS  OF  CHAN  CHAN  53 

were  twenty-two  recesses,  probably  for  shops.  Opening  on 
smaller  courts  and  passages  were  one  hundred  and  eleven 
rooms,  probably  workshops  for  artificers  in  gold,  silver,  and 
bronze,  and  for  designers,  dyers,  potters,  and  weavers.  Won- 
derful ornaments  of  gold  and  silver  have  been  found,  fine 
textile  fabrics,  and  most  remarkable,  the  pottery,  white,  black, 
and  pale  red,  which  in  immense  quantities  has  been  taken 
from  the  mounds  called  Jiuacas,  a  name  applied  also  to  the 
objects.  On  the  various  specimens  of  this  ceramic  ware  is 
portrayed  every  kind  of  fish,  bird,  mammal,  and  fruit,  with 
which  they  were  acquainted,  also  human  beings,  some  in  por- 
traits, others  as  caricatures.  There  are  groups  engaged  in 
war  dances,  in  harvesting,  and  in  other  occupations.  Some 
specimens  of  the  pottery  are  said  to  be  equal  to  any  which  has 
been  fashioned,  from  the  best  days  of  ancient  Greece  up  to 
the  present  time.  Near  the  banks  of  the  river  Muehi  at  the 
south,  stood  a  temple  to  the  moon  called  Si  An,  where  im- 
portant religious  ceremonies  and  processions  took  place. 

Evidently  the  Grand  CMmu  was  a  powerful  monarch  with 
a  magnificent  court,  ruling  over  subjects  who  lived  in  comfort. 
Their  language,  Mochica,  is  little  known,  as  the  race  is  prac- 
tically extinct.  When  conquered  by  the  Incas  they  were 
neither  destroyed  nor  robbed  of  all  their  wealth.  It  was 
Pizarro  and  his  followers  who,  though  amazed  at  the  greatness 
and  beauty  of  the  edifices,  wantonly  robbed  and  persecuted 
the  inhabitants  until  the  country  was  laid  waste.  The  people 
and  their  civilization  vanished  and  were  forgotten.  The 
language,  wholly  different  from  the  Quichua,  gives  no  hint  as 
to  the  origin  of  the  people.  Neither  does  tradition  lighten 
the  mystery,  nor  their  art,  which  relates  wholly  to  their  en- 
vironment, though  betraying  some  similarity  to  Mayo  works. 
An  exhaustive  study  of  the  language  and  of  the  archaeo- 
logical remains  is  required  to  reconstruct  the  history  of  this 
remarkable  people  whose  ancestors  are  believed  to  have  dwelt 
here  long  before  the  Christian  Era. 

Moche.  Between  the  city  of  Trujillo  and  the  port  Salaverry 
is  an  Indian  town  called  Moche,  the  inhabitants  of  which  may 
be  remnants  of  this  old  race.  They  wear  a  distinctive  dress, 
are  proud  of  their  unmixed  lineage,  and  do  not  intermarry 
with  others.  The  costume  of  the  women,  merely  a  chemise 


54  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

with  a  piece  of  dark  blue  cloth  wrapped  around  the  body  and 
fastened  at  the  waist,  to  be  seen  anywhere  in  Moche,  is  not 
allowed  in  Trujillo. 

Continuing  from  Salaverry  by  express  steamer,  one  arrives 
the  day  following  at  Callao,  a  twenty-two  hours'  run. 

Chimbote  and  the  Huailas  Valley.  The  tourist  who  desires 
to  behold  the  wonderful  scenery  of  the  Huailas  Valley  and 
magnificent  Huascaran,  surely  repaying  a  little  trouble,  at 
present  transfers  at  Salaverry  to  the  weekly  caletero  boat  for 
Chimbote  or  Samanco,  unless  he  has  sailed  in  the  Sunday 
Peruvian  steamer.  With  the  completion  of  the  railway  to 
Caraz  and  beyond,  promised  within  a  year  or  two  (as,  alas! 
since  1906),  Chimbote  will  doubtless  become  a  primary  port, 
receiving  calls  from  the  express  steamers.  When  this  happens, 
no  one  should  omit  the  delightful  railway  journey  of  135  miles 
to  Tungay,  at  the  foot  of  the  great  Huascaran.  At  the  mo- 
ment, the  trip  may  be  enjoyed  by  the  robust  traveler,  as  the 
three  or  four  days'  horseback  ride  into  the  valley  involves 
no  hardship,  save  fatigue  to  those  unwonted  to  such  jour- 
neys. 

The  harbor  of  GJiimbote,  by  some  called  the  finest  on  the 
entire  West  Coast  below  Panama,  is  practically  landlocked 
by  a  peninsula  and  several  islands.  It  has  an  area  of  about 
36  square  miles,  without  a  single  rock  below  its  placid  surface. 
The  usual  pier  extends  from  a  sandy  beach  which  affords 
splendid  bathing  facilities;  but  docks,  approachable  by  the 
largest  ships,  could  be  arranged  on  one  of  the  islands,  which 
a  bridge  across  a  200-yard  channel  would  easily  connect  with 
the  main  land.  The  American  capitalist,  Henry  Meiggs,  the 
prime  mover  in  the  construction  of  the  South  and  Central 
Peruvian  Eailways,  had  the  foresight  in  the  early  seventies 
to  perceive  the  great  business  possibilities  of  the  Chimbote 
harbor,  and  planned  the  railway  from  Chimbote  up  the 
valley  of  the  Santa  River  and  along  the  Huailas  Valley  to 
Huaraz,  167  miles.  A  beginning  was  made,  the  road  bed 
was  constructed  for  80  miles,  the  rails  were  laid  for  60,  when 
the  Chilian  war  broke  out.  The  invaders,  having  captured 
Chimbote,  carried  off  the  rolling  stock  and  supplies,  and  de- 
stroyed whatever  could  not  be  removed.  After  the  close  of 
the  war,  Peru  being  bankrupt,  the  project  remained  for  some 


CHIMBOTE  AND  THE  HUAILAS  VALLEY        55 

years  in  abeyance,  during  which  time  the  road  was  operated 
only  to  Tablones,  a  distance  of  35  miles.  Under  recent  con- 
cessions some  work  has  been  accomplished  and  the  road  is 
now  open  30  miles  farther.  It  is  expected  that  the  Peruvian 
Corporation,  at  present  in  control,  will  soon  complete  the  line 
to  Recuay,  a  little  beyond  Huaraz,  when  better  accommoda- 
tions for  tourists  will  surely  be  provided.  At  present  some 
of  the  towns  have  no  hotels  whatever,  while  in  others  those 
existing  are  very  poor.  Happily  the  residents  are  most  hos- 
pitable, and  strangers  with  letters  of  introduction,  or  in  some 
cases  Without,  are  agreeably  entertained  by  some  of  the  best 
families.  Naturally,  with  better  facilities  for  travel  this  pleas- 
ant custom  will  cease.  At  Chimbote  the  small  and  poor  hotel 
where  I  stayed  in  1906,  if  not  already  enlarged  and  improved, 
will  doubtless  soon  be  superseded  by  a  more  adequate  establish- 
ment. Back  of  the  town,  together  with  a  mound  and  walls 
remaining  from  an  ancient  city,  are  vestiges  of  an  aqueduct, 
presumably  constructed  in  Chimu  days.  "When  these  are  re- 
paired the  desert  plain  near  by,  which  bears  an  excellent  soil, 
will  be  fruitful  enough  to  support  the  great  city  laid  out 
by  Meiggs  and  expected  to  follow  the  completion  of  the  rail- 
road. This  project  was  originally  undertaken,  not  for  the 
purpose  of  conducting  tourists  to  the  splendid  scenery  of  the 
Huailas  Valley,  nor  primarily  for  the  convenience  of  its  present 
large  population  and  the  export  of  its  agricultural  products. 
The  chief  value  of  the  railroad  lies  in  its  opening  up  the  im- 
mense coal  fields  of  the  region.  Along  the  Santa  Eiver  are 
millions  of  tons  of  excellent  coal,  which  some  persons  believed 
worthless,  because  it  is  chiefly  anthracite  and  semi-anthracite, 
therefore  non-coking;  ignorant  of  the  fact  that  except  for 
smelting  purposes  it  is  more  valuable  than  soft  coal. 

This  railroad  has  an  advantage  over  the  others  leading-  into 
the  interior,  in  being  able  to  follow  the  Santa  River  through 
a  cut  in  the  Coast  Range,  instead  of  climbing  15,000  feet  over 
it.  Thus  by  a  moderate  grade  it  will  reach  the  Huailas  Valley. 
A  serious  impediment  to  the  construction  is  the  narrow  gorge 
through  the  mountains,  impracticable  even  for  a  pedestrian; 
yet  the  difficulty  will  soon  be  overcome.  After  ten  miles  on 
the  desert  the  road  passes  near  sugar  plantations  and  hacien- 
das. The  region  of  coal  deposits  follows,  extending  through 


56  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUK 

the  mountain  range  and  up  the  two  lateral  valleys  beyond,  the 
north  in  the  direction  of  Cajamarca,  the  south,  the  Huailas 
Valley,  to  Keeuay.  The  passage  of  the  sombre  gorge  will 
be  along  the  side  of  splendid  cliffs  with  a  foaming  stream 
below,  a  continuous  spectacle  of  superb  grandeur.  Turning 
south  into  the  Huailas  Valley,  from  one  to  four  miles  wide, 
the  traveler  has  the  White  Eange  on  the  east,  the  Black  on 
the  west.  The  floor  of  the  valley  is  beautiful  with  green  fields 
of  alfalfa  and  vegetables,  with  vineyards,  fig  and  orange  trees, 
chirimoias,  and  other  tropical  and  subtropical  fruits,  and  with 
hedges  of  fragrant  flowers :  above  are  rounded  hillsides  bear- 
ing the  grains,  green  or  golden,  of  temperate  climes,  higher 
are  cliffs  either  gray  or  black,  and  on  the  east  white  peaks  of 
dazzling  splendor  rising  14,000,  16,000  feet  above  the  valley, 
which  itself  slowly  ascends  from  4000  to  10,000  feet  above 
the  sea.  The  lower  western  wall  attains  an  altitude  of  front 
15,000  to  18,000  feet.  Travelers  may  always  disagree  as  to  the 
finest  scenery  in  the  world,  but  few  visitors  to  this  valley 
will  deny  that  it  is  unsurpassed  in  the  Western  Hemisphere. 
In  scenic  splendor  excelling  Chamonix,  in  mineral  riches  it 
rivals  the  Klondike;  for  on  both  sides,  the  mountains  are 
veined  with  gold,  silver,  and  copper,  as  well  as  the  more  use- 
ful if  plebeian  coal. 

Huascaran.  Caraz,  a  pretty  town  with  a  delightful  climate 
at  an  altitude  of  6000  feet,  is  situated  at  the  base  of  Huandoy, 
21,000  feet,  while  Yungay,  at  8300  feet,  has  a  still  finer  loca- 
tion on  the  lower  slope  of  the  great  Huascardn,  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  world's  mountains,  first  climbed  by  Miss  Peck 
on  her  sixth  attempt,  September  2, 1908,  in  company  with  two 
Swiss  guides,  her  earlier  efforts  being  rendered  abortive 
through  inability  to  provide  other  assistants  than  the  inexpen- 
sive and  incompetent  natives.  In  recognition  of  this  remark- 
able ascent  to  a  summit  1500  feet  higher  than  Mt.  McKinley, 
Miss  Peck  was  presented  by  the  Government  of  Peru  with  a 
very  beautiful  gold  medal.  Of  the  twin  peaks,  the  north  was 
the  summit  attained :  this,  according  to  later  measurement  by; 
French  engineers,  has  an  altitude  of  21,812  feet;  the  south 
peak,  22,187  feet,  pronounced  by  the  guides  impossible  at  the 
time,  remains  for  some  other  mountaineer  to  conquer.  Other 
snow  mountains  a  little  lower,  of  varying  degrees  o£  difficulty, 


MT.    HUASCARAN,   FROM   AN  ALTITUDE   OF    10,000   FEET 


LLANGANUCO  GORGE 


THE  HUAILAS  VALLEY  57 

afford  opportunity  for  a  number  of  first  ascents  of  20,000  feet 
and  upwards. 

The  tourist  who  is  not  a  mountain  climber  will  find  ample 
reward  for  his  journey  in  admiring  these  peaks  from  the 
valley.  He  should,  however,  take  a  few  horseback  rides, 
especially  one  from  Tungay  through  the  Llanganuco  Gorge, 
by  which  there  is  a  frequented  pass  between  Huascaran  and 
Huandoy  to  the  mountainous  and  mineral  region  east  of  the 
White  Kange.  This  splendid  excursion  may  be  made  in  a 
single  day  from  Yungay,  but  the  feeble,  or  the  novice  in  horse- 
back riding  may  prefer  to  spend  the  night  at  a  ranch  hou^e 
at  the  east  end  of  the  gorge,  perhaps  extending  the  excursion 
some  distance  beyond.  In  any  case  provisions  should  be  taken 
from  Yungay. 

After  a  pleasant  two  hours'  ride  over  the  green  foothills, 
one  enters  the  narrow  gorge  four  miles  long,  and  a  quarter  to 
a  half  mile  wide,  where  a  sublime  spectacle  is  presented. 
Practically  perpendicular  cliffs,  more  lofty  than  those  of  the 
Yosemite,  rise  on  either  hand,  until  at  the  center  of  the  gorge 
one  gazes  at  the  sheer  north  wall  of  Huascaran  towering  10,000 
feet  above  the  floor  of  the  canon  which  itself  has  a  height  of 
12,000  feet.  %  On  the  left,  high  up  between  massive  triangular 
cliffs,  gleam  glaciers  of  the  sharper  Huandoy,  almost  as  high 
as  the  snowy  coverlet  peering  over  the  edge  of  Huascaran. 
A  beautiful  lake -half  a  mile  long,  near  the  center  occupies 
the  entire  floor  of  the  valley.  One  rides  along  the  pathway, 
in  places  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  in  others  supported  by 
tree  trunks,  where  a  horse's  stumble  might  easily  precipitate 
his  rider  into  the  so-called  fathomless  lake  100  feet  below; 
but  the  excellent  horses  climb  veritable  stairs  with  ease,  and 
there  is  no  occasion  for  disquietude.  In  the  distant  fore- 
ground a  beautiful  snowclad  mountain  is  in  brilliant  contrast 
to  the  somber  and  awesome  surroundings.  A  second  lake 
follows;  a  silvery  waterfall  on  the  left  leaps  down  a  few 
thousand  feet  in  a  shimmering  shower  of  spray.  Beyond  the 
lakes  are  meadows,  then  the  ranch  house.  To  continue  thence 
to  the  south  to  behold  the  eastern  face  of  Huascaran  and  other 
splendid  peaks  is  well  worth  the  sturdy  traveler's  while. 
At  least  the  Llanganuco  Gorge  should  be  traversed  by  every 
yisitor  to  the  valley,  though  many  of  the  natives  of  Yungay 


58  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

have  never  admired  its  grandeur,  as  many  residents  of  Buffalo 
have  never  seen  Niagara  Falls.  Several  delightful  walks  or 
rides  should  be  taken  to  the  hills  back  of  Yungay,  and  to 
a  buttress  of  the  Black  Range  opposite.  From  one  of  the 
former,  a  little  to  the  south,  may  be  had  the  finest  possible 
view  of  the  mountain.  A  pleasant  ride,  of  three  hours 
each  way  (a  whole  day  should  be  allowed  for  the  trip),  is  to 
the  gold  mine  Matarao  (10,000  feet),  above  the  village  of 
Maneos.  From  this  point  Huasearan  may  be  climbed ;  or  one 
may  walk  up  to  the  snow  line  and  return  the  same  day,  if 
not  affected  by  the  altitude. 

Before  the  completion  of  the  railroad  the  tourist  may  ad- 
venture thither  by  riding  up  over  the  Black  Range.  "Without 
letters  of  introduction  to  hospitable  hosts,  one  should  write 
a  week  or  two  in  advance  to  the  steamship  agent  at  Samanco 
requesting  him  to  have  horses  ready  at  the  port,  since  none  may 
be  obtained  there.  One  may  ride  on  the  day  of  arrival  30 
miles  to  Moro  where  there  is  a  poor  hotel.  The  second  day 
one  may  proceed  to  Famparomas,  where  food  and  lodging  of  a 
sort  are  provided.  A  long  third  day's  ride  will  bring  one 
at  nightfall  to  Yungay,  From  the  altitude  of  14,700  feet  at 
the  top  of  the  pass  in  the  Black  Range,  there  is  a  glorious 
picture  of  the  Cordillera  Blanca,  a  row  of  snowclad  giants  ex- 
tending north  and  south  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach;  while 
a  gloomy  canon  close  in  front  leads  down  to  the  beautiful 
valley.  A  truly  hardy  traveler  may  enjoy  pursuing  his  way 
up  the  Huailas  Valley  to  Huaraz  and  on  to  Cerro  de  Pasco, 
from  Yungay  a  ten  days'  journey;  either  by  way  of  Hu&nuco 
in  the  montana  section  east  of  the  mountains,  or  by  Chiquian 
on  the  plateau  near  the  foot  of  another  splendid  peak. 


CHAPTER  VIII 
CALLAO  TO  LIMA— HISTORY 

Callao.  The  harbor  of  Callao,  six  or  seven  days  direct 
from  Panama,  in  contrast  to  the  ports  where  the  ship  has 
previously  called,  presents  an  attractive  picture.  If  the  ar- 
rival is  in  the  early  evening  the  brilliant  and  extensive  display 
of  lights  indicates  a  considerable  city  and  a  wide  array  of  ship- 
ping. By  day  one  will  admire  the  varied  landscape,  the  busy 
docks  and  the  city  in  front,  the  verdure  of  the  Bimae  Valley  at 
the  left  with  its  scattered  enclosing  heights  often  partly  hid- 
den by  clouds,  and  the  contrasting  bluffs  of  the  islands  San 
Loreruao  and  Fronton  on  the  right,  which,  with  the  long  sandy 
bar  called  La  Punta  extending  a  mile  out  from  the  city, 
form  a  well  protected  harbor.  Of  the  few  such  on  the  West 
Coast  this  alone  has  been  actively  utilized.  Unfortunately  the 
other  chief  commercial  ports  are  open  roadsteads.  In  1537, 
two  years  after  the  founding  of  Lima,  a  city  was  established  at 
the  port,  where  soon  there  was  a  busy  harbor,  with  vessels 
bringing  all  kinds  of  merchandise  from  Europe,  and  departing 
laden  with  rich  cargoes  of  gold  and  silver  and  a  few  other  prod- 
ucts. In  the  early  colonial  days  Callao  was  several  times 
pillaged  by  pirates,  but  later  suffered  a  far  greater  calamity, 
exceeding  the  recent  disasters  at  Valparaiso  and  San  Francisco, 
and  paralleled  only  by  the  fate  of  Port  Royal.  October  28, 
1746,  a  terrible  earthquake  occurred,  accompanied  by  a  tidal 
wave  which  engulfed  the  city,  destroying  all,  save  one  or  two, 
of  the  6000  inhabitants.  The  site  sank  beneath  the  ocean. 
The  present  city  was  rebuilt  to  the  north  of  the  earlier  settle- 
ment. Many  ships  lie  at  anchor  in  its  harbor,  some  at  the 
Hocks,  others  outside:  sailing  vessels,  large  steamers,  both 
passenger  and  freight,  a  half-dozen  men  of  war,  Peruvian, 
British,  perhaps  American,  the  last  probably  flying  the  only 
United  States  flag  visible.  Seldom  does  a  ship  approach 

59 


60  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

the  docks  on  arrival,  and  not  at  all  if  its  stay  is  to  be 
short.    The  freight  is  discharged  into  lighters,  the  passen- 
gers with  their  baggage  into  rowboats.    As  the  water  is  al- 
ways smooth,  this,  though  inconvenient  and  an  additional 
expense,  is  no  great  hardship.    The  fare  to  the  shore  is 
40  centavos.    A  bargain  should  be  made  with  the  fletero, 
as  the  men  are  called  who  have  numbers  on  their  hats  in- 
dicating that  they  are  duly  licensed.    These  men  will  take 
charge  of  your  luggage,  large  pieces  and  small,  delivering  it 
safely  at  your  hotel  in  Lima.     They  are  likely  to  ask  double 
what  it  is  worth,  not  in  comparison  with  New  York  prices, 
but  with  what  it  is  needful  to  pay.    The  Lima  Express  Com- 
pany has  a  fixed  tariff  of  1.50  soles  for  a  large  trunk,  80 
centavos  for  each  piece  of  hand  baggage,  although  for  several 
a  reduction  may  be  made.     The  figure  agreed  upon  should 
include  the  fee  for  taking  both  passengers  and  baggage,  except 
that  the  passenger  will  often  make  his  own  way  from  the 
dock  to  his  hotel  in  Lima.    Stipulation  should  be  made  for 
the  delivery  of  the  baggage  within  two  or  three  hours,  though 
it  may  then  arrive  much  later.     What  one  carries  one's  self 
should  not  be  counted.    If  undecided  what  hotel  to  patronize 
one  may  arrange  with  the  fletero  for  half  price  to  conduct  him 
and  to  transport  his  baggage  to  the  railway  station,  where  it 
may  be  checked  to  Lima.     Trains  every  half  hour,  fare  20 
civs.    Leaving  it  at  the  station  Desamparados  in  Lima,  a 
block  from  the  principal  plaza,  the  tourist  may  look  about 
and  arrange  where  to  go.    Persons  who  have  decided  in  ad- 
vance may  go  with  the  fletero  to  the  railway  station  or,  after 
passing  the  customs  examination  at  the  dock,  may  turn  to  the 
right,  then  left,  and  walk  a  block  or  so  to  the  electric  cars 
which  run  every  ten  minutes  to  Lima,  a  ride  of  about  twenty 
minutes  through  the  center  of  Callao,  and  along  a  broad  bou- 
levard to  the  larger  city  eight  miles  distant.     From  the  end 
of  the  line  in  Lima  it  is  a  walk  of  four  blocks  to  the  left  and 
one  to  the  right  to  the  Hotel  Maury ;  or  a  cab  may  be  taken 
,(fare  for  one  or  two  persons,  40  centavos),  to  the  destination 
desired. 

The  tourist  on  landing  will  give  Callao  but  a  passing  glance, 
and  is  likely  to  return  only  to  embark  on  his  departure ,-  but 
a  few  points  of  interest  may  be  mentioned.  A  floating  dry 
dock  belonging  to  the  Peruvian  Steamship  Company  will  re- 


CALLAO  TO  LIMA  61 

ceive  ships  of  7000  tons  within  the  space  of  two  hours.  The 
city  is  of  foreign  aspect,  with  buildings  of  one  or  two  stories. 
Noticeable  are  the  women  with  stands  of  strange  and  familiar 
fruits  and  other  edibles.  The  newsboys  seem  natural;  the 
electric  cars  are  of  the  best  quality,  some  with  compartments 
of  the  first  and  second  class,  with  prices  to  Lima,  20  and  10 
centavos  respectively.  Among  many  narrow  streets  are  some 
wide  ones;  two  or  three  small  but  respectable  hotels  afford 
accommodation  at  modest  prices,  one  sol  a  day  for  a  room,  or 
at  double  the  rate  and  more.  There  are  several  large  plazas, 
(open  squares)  and  a  few  Clubs,  the  English  with  good  quar- 
ters fronting  the  bay,  and  with  a  fine  view  from  the  balconies, 
the  Italian,  Centro  Naval,  Union,  Boat  Club,  etc.  Among  the 
churches,  hospitals,  and  public  edifices,  the  most  noticeable 
is  the  Aduana  or  Custom-house,  which  is  seen  at  the  right 
from  the  car  as  it  is  passing  through  the  first  plaza.  Of  the 
churches,  that  of  La  Matriz  is  most  important.  The  plaza  in 
front  is  adorned  with  a  statue  of  General  San  Martin;  the 
Plaza  Grau  has  a  handsome  monument  to  the  celebrated 
Admiral  of  that  name ;  while  in  the  square  called  Dos  de  Mayo 
is  a  marble  pillar  surmounted  by  a  bust  of  Jose  Galvez, 
Minister  of  War,  killed  in  the  naval  battle  at  Callao,  May, 
1866.  Should  one  desire  further  information  as  to  shops  or 
other  matters,  inquiry  may  be  made  at  the  importing  house 
of  W.  R.  Grace  of  New  York  (ask  for  Casa  Grace) ;  or  at  one 
of  the  steamship  offices,  all  of  which  are  near  the  landing. 

PEBUVIAJS*  HISTORY 

For  the  fuller  enjoyment  and  appreciation  of  Lima,  a  little  more 
history  may  be  an  advantage.  The  heroes  of  Peru  are  many.  The 
names  of  a  few  will  often  be  heard,  and  a  knowledge  of  their  valiant 
deeds,  a  slight  acquaintance  with  Spanish  American  History,  is  de- 
sirable. 

After  the  news  of  the  Conquest  had  been  carried  to  Charles  V  to- 
gether with  the  royal  fifth  of  the  gold  treasure  obtained  by  Pizarro, 
the  Conqueror  received  an  additional  grant  of  seventy  leagues  of 
land  to  the  south  of  the  two  hundred  previously  bestowed,  which 
began  in  Ecuador  about  one  degree  north  of  the  equator.  To  Al- 
magro,  Pizarro's  partner,  was  given  two  hundred  leagues  south  of 
this  dominion.  Just  where  the  dividing  line  ran  was  a  matter  of  dis- 
pute, each  claiming  that  Cuzeo  lay.in  his  territory.  However,  a  truce 


62  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUB 

was  declared  until  Hernando  Pizarro  should  arrive  with  the  docu- 
ments, Almagro  meanwhile  setting  out  in  1535  on  what  proved  to  be 
an  arduous  and  futile  expedition  for  the  conquest  of  Chile.  On  his 
return  he  again  set  up  his  claim  to  Cuzco.  A  contest  with 
Hernando  Pizarro  ensued ;  Almagro  gained  possession  of  the  ancient 
city,  but  was  later  put  to  death  there  by  order  of  his  old  friend  and 
ally,  Francisco  Pizarro.  The  claim  of  Almagro's  son  to  his  father's 
territory  then  being  denied,  this  so  enraged  the  followers  of  that 
brave  and  generous  chieftain  that  they  resolved  to  avenge  his  wrongs. 
Rushing  into  the  house  of  Pizarro  they  slew  him  before  he  could  arm 
himself  to  resist.  Thus  in  1541  perished  the  Conqueror  after  a  few 
brief  years  in  the  enjoyment  of  his  astonishing  success. 

For  nearly  three  centuries  afterward,  Peru  was  governed  by  a 
Viceroy,  who  until  1740  had  authority  over  the  whole  of  Spanish 
South  America,  The  Viceroy  was  assisted  by  a  Ileal  Audiencia,  con- 
sisting of  four  oidores  or  judges  who  possessed  extensive  civil  and 
criminal  powers.  Another  Audiencia  was  also  established  at  Chu- 
quisaca,  Sucre,  in  Alto  Peru,  now  Bolivia.  During  the  colonial  days 
the  Indians  were  greatly  oppressed  by  the  Spanish  residents,  who 
drew  vast  wealth  from  the  mines  and  lived  in  luxury  and  splendor. 
At  the  same  time  the  colonists  suffered  various  vicissitudes,  attacks 
by  pirates,  an  epidemic  of  smallpox,  two  severe  earthquakes  in  1687 
and  1746,  and  insurrections  of  the  Indians;  but  in  the  main  the 
country  was  prosperous. 

For  centuries  the  spirit  of  loyalty  remained,  but  the  North 
American  and  the  French  revolutions  encouraged  the  spread  of 
liberal  ideas,  which  events  in  Spain  made  easier  to  be  carried  into 
execution.  Although  the  Viceroy,  Fernando  Abascal,  whose  ad- 
ministration lasted  from  1806  to  1816,  made  many  concessions  and 
improvements,  it  was  impossible  to  stem  the  tide.  After  the  abdi- 
cation of  Charles  IV  of  Spain  in  1808  in  favor  of  his  son  Ferdi- 
nand VH,  and  the  subsequent  crowning  of  Joseph  Bonaparte  as 
king,  orders  were  sent  out  for  the  colonists  to  transfer  their  alle- 
giance to  the  new  ruler.  It  happened,  however,  that  a  decree  of 
Charles  V  in^!530,  confirmed  by  Philip  II  in  1563,  had  authorized 
the  colonies  in  case  of  emergency  to  convoke  Juntas  or  political 
assemblies.  These  convening  in  the  various  colonial  capitals  de- 
clared loyalty  to  the  banished  King  Ferdinand  and  refused  to 
recognize  the  authority  of  Spain  while  in  the  hands  of  a  usurper. 
The  leaders  were  already  planning  ultimate  independence,  but  the 
masses  were  not  yet  weaned  from  their  loyalty.  In  Buenos  Aires 
the  Viceroy  was  expelled  without  trouble,  but  in  the  other  colonies 
the  struggle  was  severe  and  prolonged.  In  Lima  the  Viceroy  em- 
ployed harsh  measures  against  the  patriots.  In  1809  royalist  troops 


CALLAO  TO  LIMA  63 

were  sent  from  here  to  Quito,  and  an  army  under  General  Goyeneehe 
to  Alto  Peru,  to  oppose  the  revolutionists.  February  13,  1812,  in- 
dependence was  proclaimed  at  Huanuco,  in  1814  at  Cuzco;  but  at 
length  the  royalists  everywhere  gained  the  day,  so  that  when 
Abaseal  retired  to  Spain  in  1816,  Buenos  Aires  alone  remained  in 
the  hands  of  the  patriots.  Nevertheless,  the  successor  of  Abaseal, 
General  Pezuela,  was  the  last  of  the  Viceroys.  Although  Ferdinand 
was  now  restored  to  the  throne  of  Spain,  the  spirit  in  favor  of  in- 
dependence had  become  general.  With  an  empty  treasury,  and 
general  disorder  in  the  departments  of  government,  the  Viceroy  found 
himself  confronted  by  a  resurrection  of  the  enemy  who,  after  vic- 
tories in  the  south  and  north,  at  length  advanced  upon  Peru. 

First  came  the  Liberating  Army  from  the  south,  organized  in 
Mendoza  by  General  San  Martin,  who,  in  1817,  had  overthrown  the 
royalists  in  Chile.  Landing  near  Pisco,  122  miles  south  of  Lima, 
September  7,  1820,  General  San  Martin  issued,  September  8,  a 
proclamation  stating  that  he  had  come  to  liberate  the  people,  not 
to  make  conquests.  Robbery  was  prohibited;  and  bloodshed,  ex- 
cept on  the  field  of  battle.  The  Viceroy  proposed  a  conference 
which  was  held  at  Miraflores  without  result. 

An  army  of  1000  soldiers  under  General  Arenales,  dispatched  by 
San  Martin  from  Pisco  to  the  interior,  after  gaining  many  recruits 
defeated  a  royalist  force  near  Cerro  de  Pasco.  Meantime  San  Mar- 
tin had  proceeded  to  Ancon  just  north  of  Lima,  and  then  to  Huaura 
near  Huaeho,  while  Admiral  Cochrane,  with  his  new  Chilian  fleet, 
captured  by  surprise  at  night  the  Spanish  frigate  Esmeralda  in 
the  port  of  Callao.  In  January,  1821,  the  Viceroy  abdicated  and 
returned  to  Spain  leaving  in  command  General  La  Serna,  who  with- 
drew to  the  interior  on  the  advance  of  the  patriot  army.  July  12, 
1821,  San  Martin  entered  the  capital;  July  28,  which  is  regarded  as 
Peru's  Independence  Day,  proclamation  was  made  in  the  Plaza  in 
front  of  the  palace — "From  this  moment  Peru  is  free  and  inde- 
pendent by  the  will  of  the  people  and  by  the  justice  of  their 
cause  which  God  defends/' 

San  Martin,  now  called  the  Protector,  after  organizing  a  pro- 
visional government  and  arranging  for  a  national  congress  went  to 
Guayaquil  to  meet  General  Simon  Bolivar,  who,  having  freed  Vene- 
zuela and  Colombia,  was  coming  from  the  north.  The  particulars 
of  the  conference  were  not  revealed.  A  disagreement  was  evident. 
San  Martin,  returning,  resigned  the  government  into  the  hands  of 
the  Constituent  Congress  which  met  in  1822,  and  withdrew  to  Argen- 
tina and  Europe.  The  assembly  conferred  on  him  the  title  of 
Founder  of  Liberty  of  Peru,  decreed  a  life  pension  and  other  honors; 
but  the  pension  probably  lapsed,  as  San  Martin  died  in  comparative 


64  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

poverty  in  1850  at  the  age  of  seventy-two.  The  hero's  patriotism, 
courage,  skill,  unselfish  devotion,  high  principles,  and  sterling  char- 
acter make  him  worthy  to  stand  with  the  noblest  patriots  of  history. 
His  name  in  South  America  is  honored  as  is  that  of  Washington 
in  North  America,  and  with  equal  justice.  It  should  be  known  among 
us,  as  is  Washington's  among  them. 

General  Bolivar  arrived  in  Lima  September  1,  1823,  and  was  in- 
vested with  supreme  power.  There  were  now  two  armies  of  royalist 
troops  in  the  interior;  in  July,  1824,  the  Liberating  Army  of  the 
North  began  its  march  from  the  sea  over  the  mountains  to  Cerro  de 
Paseo.  The  two  armies  met,  August  5,  on  the  plain  of  Junin, 
where  the  patriots  gained  a  complete  victory.  General  Canterae, 
commander  of  the  royalist  forces,  retired  to  Cuzeo,  where  he  was 
joined  by  the  southern  army  under  Yaldez.  The  patriots  under 
General  Sucre  proceeded  to  the  Apurimac  Valley.  December  9, 
1824,  the  two  armies  met  in  the  hard-fought  battle  of  Ayacueho, 
which  resulted  in  a  brilliant  victory  for  the  patriots  and  ended 
Spanish  dominion  in  America. 

Bolivar  was  made  President  of  Peru  for  life,  the  Colombian  troops 
were  voted  a  magnificent  reward;  but  in  1827  Bolivar  retired  to 
Colombia,  Of  the  troublous  times  following,  up  to  the  war  with 
Chile,  little  need  be  said.  The  name  of  Manuel  Pardo  may  be  men- 
tioned, founder  of  the  Civil  Party  and  President  from  1872  to  1876, 
an  able  statesman,  scholar,  and  patriot,  who  was  assassinated  in  1878 
while  President  of  the  Senate. 

The  War  of  the  Pacific  broke  out  in  1879,  when  Peru,  in  accord- 
ance with  a  treaty  secretly  made  with  that  country,  went  to  the 
assistance  of  Bolivia,  after  the  Chilians  had  seized  Antof agasta,  then 
a  port  of  Bolivia,  on  account  of  a  quarrel  over  an  export  tax  on  ni- 
trate. A  noted  naval  engagement  occurred  off  the  coast  of  Iquique, 
when  the  Peruvian  ship  Huascar  under  Admiral  Grau  sank  the 
Chilian  Esmeralda  under  the  heroic  Captain  Arturo  Prat,  who  lost  his 
life  in  the  engagement.  To  his  widow,  Admiral  Grau,  with  kindly 
spirit,  sent  a  letter  of  sympathy  with  some  relics  which  Prat  had 
carried.  The  other  Peruvian  vessel,  the  Independenda,  pursuing  the 
Chilian  Covadonga,  ran  upon  hidden  rocks  and  became  a  total  wreck, 
a  misfortune  which  proved  a  death  blow  to  Peru.  For  four  months 
Admiral  Grau  kept  the  Chilians  at  bay,  but  at  last,  October  8,  lie 
was  obliged  to  fight  the  two  Chilian  ironclads  at  once.  A  shell  strik- 
ing the  tower  killed  Admiral  Grau.  His  four  successors  in  com- 
mand, one  after  another,  met  the  same  fate.  When  forced  to  sur- 
render one-third  of  the  entire  force  of  193  men  had  been  killed  or 
wounded.  The  coast,  1400  miles  long,  was  now  exposed  to  the 
enemy,  and  in  November,  1870,  the  Chilians  began  a  series  of  at- 
tacks, all  of  which  were  successful,  excepting  the  battle  of  Tarapaca". 


CALLAO  TO  LIMA  65 

Many  Peruvians  met  a  heroic  death,  notably  Bolognesi  and  others 
at  Ariea.  In  1881  occurred  the  battles  of  Chorillos  and  Miraflores 
and  the  capture  of  Lima  by  the  Chilians,  who  remained  in  possession 
of  the  city  until  the  treaty  of  Ancon  was  signed,  October,  1883* 

According  to  the  terms  of  this  treaty,  the  province  of  Tarapaca 
was  ceded  to  Chile,  while  Tacna  and  Arica  were  yielded  for  ten  years, 
at  the  expiration  of  which  time  the  residents  were  to  vote  whether 
they  would  continue  as  a  part  "of  Chile  or  return  to  their  former 
allegiance.  The  fact  that  the  provinces  have  remained  under  con- 
trol of  Chile  without  any  such  vote  being  taken,  has  for  years  been 
a  cause  of  ill-feeling  between  the  two  countries,  which  at  times  have 
seemed  on  the  verge  of  war. 


CHAPTER  IX 
,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS 

HOTELS.  Grand  Hotel  Maury,  A.  P.,  6  to  20  soles  per  day.  E.  P., 
2  soles  up;  Grand  Hotel,  A.  P.,  6  to  10  soles;  Hotel  Cardinal,  E.  P., 
2  $0fes  up.  Excellent  restaurant,  reasonable. 

Restaurants.  Jardin  Estrasburgo,  and  Marron's,  excellent,  fash- 
ionable restaurants;  Berlin,  German  home-cooking  restaurant. 

Carriage  Rates.  40  ctvs.  a  course,  for  one  or  two ;  by  the  hour,  S. 
1.50. 

Post  Office  boxes  in.  hotel.  Postage  rates,  Peru,  letters,  5  ctvs.; 
cards,  2  ctvs.;  United  States  and  Europe,  letters,  12  ctvs.;  cards, 
4  ctvs.  Population  of  Lima,  about  150,000. 

CHIEF  POINTS  OF  INTEBEST 

Plaza  de  Armas,  Cathedral,  Government  Palace,  Portales,  Plaza  de 
la  Inquisicion,  Senate  Chamber,  Hall  of  Congress,  Market,  Ex- 
position Palace,  Museum,  and  Park,  Paseo  Colon,  Botanical  Gar- 
den, Christobal  Hill.  Excursions  on  Oroya  Railway,  and  to  Choril- 
los. 

The  monthly  magazine,  Peru  Today,  contains  a  Visitors'  Guide 
and  other  valuable  information.  The  weekly  paper,  The  West  Coast 
Leader^  is  of  interest  and  service. 

To  be  comfortably  settled  for  a  few  days  or  weeks  is  of  the 
first  importance.  Few  will  criticise  the  statement  that  the 
hotel  par  excellence  of  Lima  is  the  MAURY,  often  called  the  best 
on  the  entire  "West  Coast.  A  New  York  club-man  whom  I 
met  there  with  his  East  Indian  valet,  declared  that  nowhere 
else  in  the  world  had  he  found  so  excellent  a  table  at  so 
moderate  a  cost.  One  here  meets  travelers,  distinguished  and 
undistinguished,  foreign  diplomats,  and  other  resident  and 
transient  guests  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe.  With  its 
main  entrances  near  the  corner  of  Ucayali  and  Carabaya 
streets,  the  Maury  extends  through  the  block  to  Huallaga. 
The  section  at  this  corner,  called  the  Francia  y  Ingleterra,  the 

66 


CALLAO    HARBOR — RECEIVING    SECRETARY    ROOT 


PLAZA  DE  ARMOS,   CATHEDRAL 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OP  THE  KINGS  67, 

French  and  English,  was  formerly  a  separate  establishment. 
Though  now  a  part  of  the  Maury  it  preserves  its  old  name, 
with  its  own  room-clerks,  and  entrance  on  Huallaga.  At  the 
corner  of  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  the  heart  of  the  city,  it  has 
many  rooms  with  balconies  looking  across  the  Plaza  to  the 
Government  Palace  and  Municipal  Building,  while  opposite 
the  front  is  the  side  of  the  great  Cathedral.  In  spite  of  the 
proximity  of  the  Cathedral  bells,  which  ring  oft  and  loud, 
many  persons  prefer  this  end  of  the  hotel  on  account  of  the 
pleasant  outlook  and  the  better  circulation  of  air.  It  is,  how- 
ever, quite  a  walk  through  the  corridors  to  the  dining-rooms 
at  the  other  end,  and  some  distance  to  the  bathrooms.  So 
the  majority  prefer  the  Maury  side,  where  the  rooms  are  more 
elegantly  furnished,  the  suites  have  larger  parlors,  a  few 
have  private  baths,  all  have  higher  prices.  The  rates  including 
meals  are  from  six  soles  a  day  up  to  twenty,  according  to  ac- 
commodations. Coffee  and  rolls  are  usually  served  in  the 
n>oms  at  the  hour  desired ;  almuerzo — breakfast,  is  from  eleven 
to  two;  dinner  from  5.30  to  eight.  At  each  of  these  meals 
there  are  half  a  dozen  Mnds  of  soup,  several  varieties  of  fish, 
15  to  20  hot  entrees,  10  or  12  cold  dishes,  and  several  veg- 
etables ;  at  breakfast,  steak,  chops,  and  eggs  in  any  form,  at 
dinner  several  roasts,  and,  most  unusual  in  South  American 
cities,  five  or  six  Mnds  of  desserts.  Also  there  is  always  fruit, 
at  least  oranges,  bananas,  and  grwnadillas  somewhat  like  a 
pomegranate.  At  almuerzo,  strawberries  may  usually  be  had 
for  the  asking,  though  never  on  the  bill  of  fare,  while  chiri- 
moias,  sometimes  called  custard  apples,  may  be  obtained  with 
a  considerable  extra  charge,  this  fruit  being  everywhere  the 
most  expensive  variety.  On  the  street  or  at  the  market  they 
may  be  purchased  for  one-third  the  price  at  the  hotel,  from 
10  to  40  centavos  apiece  according  to  the  size.  An  English- 
man once  complained  that  the  roast  beef  and  mutton  were 
not  such  as  he  had  at  home,  and  he  didn't  care  for  the  other 
things,  fussed-up  dishes;  but  most  persons,  like  the  New 
Yorker,  rejoice  in  what  is  provided,  at  least  for  a  reasonable 
time,  especially  if  they  have  come  from  plateau  or  desert  or 
from  almost  anywhere.  The  senoritas,  which  are  not  young 
ladies  but  resemble  scallops,  and  the  crabs  and  lobsters,  are 
particularly  fine.  The  Maury  has  also  two  or  three  annexes 


68  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

where  rooms  may  be  secured,  and  meals  taken  as  desired.  In 
the  hotel,  too,  rooms  alone  may  be  procured,  with  meals  a  la 
carte  in  a  different  dining-room,  or  elsewhere  at  one's  option. 
An  excellent  orchestra  provides  music  of  the  best  quality;  at 
the  Maury  from  12  to  2  daily,  and  at  the  Exposition  Restau- 
rant  under  the  same  management,  in  the  Zoological  Gardens, 
from  5.30  to  11.30.  A  steam  laundry  is  connected  with  the  es- 
tablishment; of  course  there  are  electric  lights,  as  at  all  hotels, 
and  in  all  cities  of  any  size  throughout  the  tour.  Generally  a 
button  will  be  found  near  the  head  of  the  bed  by  which  the 
light  may  be  extinguished  after  retiring. 

The  Grand  Hotel  is  on  Huallaga  street  in  the  next  block  be- 
yond the  French  and  English ;  similar  to  the  Maury,  with  good 
rooms  and  table  at  slightly  lower  prices,  and  preferred  by 
many.  Of  cheaper  hotels,  the  Cardinal  has  a  reputation  for 
excellent  meals  a  la  carte  at  moderate  prices ;  this  being  sit- 
uated on  what  is  often  called  the  main  street,  calle  de  la  Union, 
half  a  block  from  the  Plaza.  The  Jardin  Estrasburgo,  on  the 
Plaza,  opposite  the  Cathedral,  is  a  restaurant  of  the  first 
order,  where  meals  are  regularly  served,  and  ices  and  re- 
freshments at  all  hours.  A  European  orchestra  provides  vocal 
and  instrumental  music.  Opposite  the  Palace,  under  the 
portales  is  the  Confiserie  Marron.  Afternoon  tea  and  din- 
ner are  accompanied  by  pictures  from  a  cinematograph,  and 
by  orchestral  music.  All  tastes  and  purses  are  provided 
for. 

Comfortably  settled  in  a  hotel,  one  will  first  enjoy  a  stroll 
on  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  the  real  center  of  the  city,  important 
for  its  historic  associations  and  for  its  present  activities.  For 
nearly  three  centuries  the  capital  of  Spanish  South  America 
and  the  seat  of  the  Viceroys,  Lima  is  a  city  the  true  history 
of  which  surpasses  romantic  legends:  a  place  of  wonderful 
charm  to  those  who  tarry  long,  the  home  of  a  courtly,  culti- 
vated society  of  agreeable,  hospitable  people,  though  somewhat 
exclusive  withal,  as  are  the  social  leaders  generally  in  the  large 
South  American  cities.  To  be  from  New  York,  Chicago,  even 
Boston,  is  not  an  open  sesame  to  the  homes  of  Spanish  Amer- 
ican wealth  and  culture.  However,  the  passing  tourist  will 
have  brief  time  to  make  acquaintances;  the  few  Peruvians 
whom  he  may  casually  meet  are  likely  to  make  a  favorable 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS  69 

impression,  except  upon  those  who  regard  courtesy  as  a 
waste  of  time. 

The  Plaza  de  Armas  or  Plaza  Major  was  selected  by  Pizarro 
himself  as  the  center  of  the  city.  The  site  was  well  chosen 
in  proximity  to  the  fine  harbor  of  Callao,  yet  somewhat  back 
from  the  water  for  safety  from  the  buccaneers  who  in  those 
days  infested  the  seas.  Although  at  the  foot  of  the  great 
Andes,  off-shoots  from  which  come  down  to  the  water's  edge, 
the  city  is  on  practically  level  ground ;  for  the  hills  about,  as  in 
general  all  along  the  coast,  rise  abruptly,  like  islands,  from 
a  flat  surface,  instead  of  the  whole  country  being  hilly  and 
rolling  as  on  our  Atlantic  shore.  These  small  detached  moun- 
tains, which  make  a  pretty  and  effective  background  when 
they  are  not  concealed  by  fog,  are  largely  responsible  for  the 
disagreeable  mist  which  in  the  winter  season  makes  the  climate 
rather  unpleasantly  damp  and  chill. 

The  chief  part  of  the  city  is  on  the  left  or  south  bank  of 
the  Eimac  River,  by  the  side  of  which  runs  the  Central  Kail- 
way  from  Callao  up  to  Oroya;  the  main  station  of  Lima, 
Desemparados,  being  one  block  from  the  Plaza.  As  is  custom- 
ary, a  pretty  garden  with  flowers,  trees,  and  shrubbery  occu- 
pies a  large  part  of  the  square,  which  has  besides  the  usual 
band  stand  a  bronze  fountain  in  the  center,  no  doubt  the  oldest 
in  America,  as  it  was  presented  to  the  city  in  1578. 

The  great  Cathedral,  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  Square, 
built  of  gray  stone  with  two  towers,  is  the  earliest  and  largest 
in  South  America.  Although  the  Spanish  invaders  manifested 
little  of  the  spirit  of  the  Christ  they  professed  to  worship,  they 
were  ardent  supporters  of  what  they  regarded  as  the  true 
faith  and  were  eager  to  establish  everywhere  the  rites  of 
their  religion.  Thus  Francisco  Pizarro,  the  cruel  and  per- 
fidious conqueror,  had  no  sooner  selected  the  site  of  the  city 
designed  to  be  his  capital,  and  drawn  a  plan  of  the  streets 
and  plazas  than  he  himself  laid  the  corner  stone  of  the  church, 
January  18,  1535.  The  first  structure,  though  five  years  in 
building,  was  naturally  of  no  grand  proportions.  But  Lima 
soon  becoming  a  -metropolitan  see  with  an  archbishop,  it  was 
deemed  fitting  to  build  a  great  Cathedral.  With  interrup- 
tions and  changes  of  design  it  was  1625  before  the  splendid 
edifice  was  finished  and  consecrated.  This  done  the  bones  of 


70  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Pizarro  were  transferred  thither,  where  they  still  remain. 
After  a  little  more  than  a  century  this  building  was  laid  in 
ruins  by  the  earthquake  which  in  1746  destroyed  Callao;  it 
was  then  reconstructed  on  the  same  site,  though  with  less 
magnificence  than  before.    The  Cathedral  has  five  naves,  and 
ten  chapels  along  the  sides.    In  the  Chapel  of  the  Virgin  on  the 
left  is  a  celebrated  image,  a  gift  from  the  Emperor  Charles  V, 
and  under  a  glass  case  the  remains  of  the  Conqueror  Pizarro, 
though  their  genuineness  is  a  matter  of  dispute.     The  view  in 
the  central  nave  is  imposing.    The  choir,  said  to  be  unequaled 
in  America  and  seen  to  best  advantage  only  on  feast  days 
when  the  high  altar  is  illuminated,  is  distinguished  by  reason 
of  the  beautiful  carving  of  the  mahogany  and  cedar;  the 
pulpit  also  shows  handsome  chiseling.    In  front  is  a  Crucifix 
of  ivory  presented  by  Philip  II,  a  valuable  work  of  art.    The 
solid  silver  altar  and  candlesticks  are  noteworthy.    The  un- 
usually fine  organ  was  made  in  Belgium.    In  the  Chapel 
Arcediano,  the  Archdeacon's,  which  was  founded  in  1600  by 
Don  Juan  Velasquez  de  Obando  and  dedicated  to  Santo  Goribio 
and  other  sainted  Limanians,  is  an  original  painting  by  Murillo 
representing  Jesus  and  Veronica,  presented  to  the  church  by 
Senor  Luna  Pizarro.    In  the  chapel  of  St.  Bartholomew  are 
paintings  of  a  celebrated  artist,  Mateo  Alexio,  who  visited  Lima 
near  the  close  of  the  sixteenth  century  and  who  is  here  buried. 
On  a  sidewall  is  the  most  famous  work  of  a  noted  artist, 
Matias  Maestro,  called  the  Consecration  of  the  Cathedral,  the 
gift  of  Senor  Ocampo  in  1625.    In  the  chapel,  La  Purissima, 
of  especially  rich  construction,  is  the  sepulcher  of  Senor  Mor- 
cillo  with  his  statue  by  a  distinguished  Peruvian  sculptor, 
Senor  Baltazar  Gavilan.    Here  too  are  fine  ivory  carvings 
representing  the  apostles,  presented  by  the  Lima  theologian, 
Dr.  Feliciano  de  la  Vega,  who  at  his  death  in  1640  was  Arch- 
bishop of  Mexico.    In  the  passage-way  connecting  the  church 
with  the  sacristy  may  be  seen  on  the  right  a  painting  of  the 
various  saints  native  to  Lima,  by  Matias  Maestro.     On  the 
wall  of  the  right  gallery  of  the  church,  a  painting  by  Lepiani 
represents  Christ  in  Prayer.    In  the  sacristy  are  portraits  of 
all  the^  Archbishops,  a  copy  of  a  Rembrandt,  some  relics  of  the 
Inquisition,  and  a  font  of  unusual  style.    By  the  side  of  the 
Cathedral  is  the  residence  of  the  archbishop,  never  suitably 


PORTALES   AND    MUNICIPAL   BUILDING 


CALLE    JUNlN INAUGURATION    OF   PRESIDENT    LEGUIA 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS  71 

restored,  and  in  its  dilapidated  condition  marring  the  beauty 
of  the  Plaza. 

On  the  northeast  side  of  the  Plaza  is  the  historic  residence 
of  the  Viceroys,  now  the  Government  Palace.  Of  the  old 
colonial  building,  the  scene  of  many  gay  and  brilliant  festivi- 
ties in  the  days  of  great  general  wealth  and  viceregal  splendor, 
nothing  remains  but  the  chapel  with  a  handsome  ceiling  and 
with  walls, adorned  with  sixteenth  century  tiles  reminding  of 
Moorish  art.  No  longer  used  for  worship  it  is  a  store-house  for 
archives.  Around  the  several  patios  are  suites  used  as  offices 
of  the  various  departments  of  government.  Here  may  be 
found  the  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations,  the  Minister  of 
Justice  and  Education,  etc.:  also  the  apartment  occupied  by 
the  President  as  his  residence  and  for  his  offices.  In  the  State 
dining-room  banquets  are  occasionally  given  to  distinguished 
guests,  as  to  Secretary  Boot.  During  the  Sessions  of  Congress, 
the  President  usually  entertains  at  dinner  the  Members, 
seriatim,  holding  an  informal  reception  after  the  dinner. 
The  present  occupant  of  the  Presidential  quarters,  His  Ex- 
cellency Don  Guillermo  Billinghurst,  a  gentleman  of  English 
ancestry  speaking  fluently  that  language,  was  installed  for  a 
four-year  term,  not  subject  to  re-election,  September  24, 1912. 

Although  the  main  entrance  to  the  patio  of  the  palace  is 
guarded  by  soldiers,  an  ordinary  person  is  permitted  to  pass 
from  the  Plaza  unquestioned.  Commonly  quiet  and  peaceful, 
on  a  day  in  May,  1909,  there  was  here  a  scene  of  confusion 
and  bloodshed.  By  a  simultaneous  attack  made  at  each  of  the 
three  entrances,  the  guards  were  overpowered  and  many  of 
them  slain,  the  rooms  of  the  President  were  invaded,  his  sec- 
retary was  murdered,  and  he  himself  was  seized  and  carried 
to  the  street.  Surrounded  by  horsemen  he  was  dragged  first 
one  way  then  another,  at  length  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Inquisicion, 
where  with  a  revolver  at  his  head  demand  was  made  that  he 
should  sign  an  abdication.  This,  President  Leguia  with  much 
courage  resolutely  refused  to  do.  After  being  two  hours  in 
the  hands  of  his  enemies  he  was  rescued,  safe  and  sound,  by 
soldiers  who,  firing  upon  his  captors,  succeeded  in  taking  pris- 
oner most  of  the  ringleaders.  Two  years  later  they  were  tried 
and  convicted :  but  to  avert  a  probable  insurrection  they  were 
immediately  pardoned,  when  they  were  welcomed  by  the  pop- 


72  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

ulace  as  heroes  instead  of  the  criminals  they  were.  When 
such  men  seek  to  gratify  their  personal  ambition  at  the  cost 
of  their  country's  welfare,  for  which  the  first  requisite  is  peace 
and  steady  constitutional  government,  if  they  received  severe 
punishment  and  reprobation  rather  than  honor,  the  attempts 
would  cease  and  stable  prosperity  would  be  assured.  An  in- 
terview with  the  President,  if  especially  desired  may  perhaps 
be  secured  through  the  United  States  Minister.  His  office 
and  residence  are  in  a  garden  called  Quinta  Eeeren  in  the  block 
Carmen  Alto  of  the  street  Junin,  which  passes  the  front  of  the 
palace.  The  streets,  it  should  be  said,  have  many  names,  a 
different  one  for  each  block;  but  in  addition  to  these  local 
appellations,  which  are  very  confusing  to  strangers,  they  have 
names  belonging  to  their  entire  length,  so  that  the  block  names 
may  sometimes  be  dispensed  with. 

On  the  northwest  corner  of  the  Plaza  is  the  Mwvicipal  Build- 
mg  or  City  Hall,  containing  the  office  of  the  Mayor,  in  Lima 
termed  the  Alcalde.  Here  in  1906  Secretary  Root  was  received 
by  Mayor  Elguera  and  the  Town  Council  before  going  to  the 
Palace  to  pay  his  respects  to  the  President.  The  hall  and 
municipal  offices  are  above  stairs,  the  street  floor  being  oc- 
cupied by  shops  of  various  kinds.  Half  a  block  from  this 
corner,  down  the  calle  de  Lima,  a  continuation  of  Junin,  is 
the  Post  Office,  where  notices  are  posted  of  the  opening  and 
closing  of  mails  in  connection  with  the  arrival  and  de- 
parture of  steamers,  and  of  trains  to  the  interior.  Postage 
stamps  may  be  procured  on  the  right  and  letters  registered. 
On  the  left,  letters  are  mailed  in  different  slots  according  to 
where  they  are  going,  hence  care  should  be  exercised.  After 
regular  closing  time  double  postage  will  secure  the  dispatch  of 
letters  for  an  hour  or  two  longer.  With  fast  mails  to  Panama 
but  once  a  week,  it  is  important  to  be  in  season.  There  are 
letter  boxes  also  in  the  hotels  and  on  the  streets,  from  which 
collections  are  made  by  carriers.  The  northwest  and  south- 
west sides  of  the  Plaza,  on  which  are  the  portales,  are  equally 
interesting  in  their  way.  Here  are  shops  of  great  variety,  dis- 
playing large  assortments  of  goods,  besides  venders  under  the 
arches  with  wares  spread  on  the  floor.  The  walks  are  gen- 
erally thronged  with  people,  for  along  here  are  also  clubs 
and  restaurants,  the  latter  already  referred  to.  The  Clubs 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS  73 

occupy  apartments  above  the  porfales.  The  Union,  at  the 
corner  opposite  the  French  and  English  Hotel,  has  a  series  of 
handsome  rooms  where  balls  and  banquets  are  occasionally 
given  in  honor  of  distinguished  strangers  and  residents. 

The  streets  of  Lima  are  narrow,  with  the  electric  cars  run- 
ning so  close  to  the  curb  that  one  needs  to  be  rather,  careful, 
especially  as  the  sidewalks  are  narrow  also.  Fortunately  most 
of  the  buildings  have  but  one  or  two  stories,  though  a  few  of 
the  later  erections  have  three.  Apart  from  the  Plaza,  the 
principal  street  for  shopping  is  the  calle  de  la  Union,  which 
passes  across  the  Plaza  in  front  of  the  Municipal  Building. 
In  the  first  two  or  three  blocks  from  the  Plaza  there  are 
drug  stores,  photographers,  jewelry  and  book  stores,  shops  of 
millinery  and  dry  goods,  etc.,  as  on  all  the  cross  streets  near. 
The  fruit-sellers  with  little  baskets  of  strawberries  on  long 
poles,  the  milkmaids  perched  high  on  mules  or  horses  with 
great  cans  on  each  side,  the  ladies  in  manta,  the  close  fitting 
black  shawl,  or  the  mantilla  of  lace,  or  in  the  latest  Parisian 
modes,  the  cholos  in  plainer  garb,  the  soldiers,  the  policemen 
ever  blowing  their  whistles,  the  newsboys  and  news  women, 
the  sellers  of  lottery  tickets,  the  fine  private  equipages,  car- 
riages and  automobiles,  and  many  many  other  things  present 
variety  sufficient  to  make  an  aimless  stroll  of  continual  interest. 
A  glance  into  the  open  doorways  away  from  the  busiest  streets 
usually  reveals  a  paved  court,  sometimes  with  flowering  plants 
or  small  trees,  mayhap  a  fountain,  and  around  the  court  the 
main  rooms  of  the  dwelling.  A  gem  of  typical  colonial  ar- 
chitecture, the  old  historic  dwelling  on  the  calle  del  TIcayali, 
a  block  from  the  Maury,  should  by  all  means  be  visited.  It 
was  the  property  of  the  Marquis  de  Torre  Tagle  and  still  be- 
longs to  his  descendant,  Senor  Ortis  de  Ceballos,  to  whom 
is  due  its  excellent  condition.  The  massive  stone  doors, 
staircase,  galleries,  barred  doors  and  windows,  and  the  bal- 
conies both  on  the  street  and  around  the  patio,  present  fine  ex- 
amples of  the  carving  of  that  period.  These  may  be  ex- 
amined by  alL  A  wonderful  collection  of  paintings  in  the 
possession  of  the  family  is  not  always  on  view.  Inquiry  as 
to  the  possibility  of  seeing  it  may  be  made  by  those  who  are 
especially  interested.  This  extraordinary  assemblage  of  more 
than  eight  hundred  paintings  of  the  classic  schools  contains 


74  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

works  of  Michael  Angelo,  Raphael,  Titian,  Correggio,  Leon- 
ardo da  Vinci,  Rubens,  Poussin,  Velasquez,  Murillo,  and 
others. 

ATI  important  private  collection  of  ancient  furniture,  carved 
and  inlaid  with  artistic  merit,  is  the  property  of  Dr.  Javier 
Prado  7  Ugarteche,  Minister  of  Foreign  Relations  in  the  ad- 
ministration of  President  Leguia,  and  Dean  of  the  School  of 
Law,*  another  is  that  of  Don  Carlos  Watson. 

For  evening  entertainment  there  are  several  theaters,  the 
Politeama,  seating  2000,  El  Olimpo,  smaller,  the  Chinese,  and 
the  New  Municipal  Theater  seating  2000. 

If  disposed  to  take  a  morning  stroll,  one  may  walk  along 
Huallaga  street  past  the  side  of  the  Cathedral  until  he  comes, 
after  four  blocks,  to  the  largest  of  the  four  market  buildings. 
This,  called  the  Mercado  de  la  Conception,  occupies  a  whole 
square.    In  the  second  block  from  the  Plaza  on  the  right  hand 
side  is  an  unpretentious  drug  store  of  Estremadoyro  where  for 
5  centavos  may  be  purchased  a  small  envelope  of  Persian 
powder,  very  useful  for  the  fleas.    Elsewhere  two  or  three 
times  as  much  must  be  paid  for  the  same  quantity  in  less  con- 
venient form.    At  the  end  of  this  block  is  the  fine  building 
of  the  Bank  of  Peru  and  London.    Other  banks  of  various 
nationalities  of  Europe  will  be  observed,  but  none  of  the  United 
States,    However,  the  House  of  W.  B.  Grace,  which  will  be 
found  by  turning  to  the  right  at  the  end  of  the  first  block,  a 
little  way  down  on  the  left,  will  serve  the  purpose  if  one  takes 
a  draft  on  their  house,  when  letters  may  be  sent  in  their  care. 
Continuing  on  HualTaga  past  the  Bank  of  Peru  and  London, 
the  interior  of  which  is  worth  looking  at,  though  you  have  no 
especial  business  within,  you  come  to  the  fine  Market  with 
little  shops  and  cafes  along  the  front  and  sides.    "Within  the 
large  hall  is  a  great  display  of  fruits,  flowers,  vegetables,  meat, 
butter,  eggs,  etc.  ;  everything  at  very  reasonable  prices  except 
the  last  two.    Flowers  may  be  had  for  a  song,  a  bunch  of  rosea 
for  20  centavos,  10  cents;  not  American  Beauties  to  be  sure, 
but  old-fashioned  tea  roses  and  others  of  various  colors,  fresh 
and  sweet.    Tuberoses,  mignonette,  heliotrope,  and  other  gar- 
den flowers  are  there  in  profusion.    How  one  would  rejoice 
at  such  opportunities  in  any  of  our  cities !    Twenty,  a  hundred 
such  markets  are  needed  in  Manhattan  alone.    Luscious  fruit 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS  75 

of  various  kinds  is  always  plentiful,  most  of  it  cheap.  Two 
squares  beyond  the  market  one  would  come  to  what  is  now 
called  Plaza  Rctimondi.  Facing  this  is  a  great  building  for  the 
Police  Quarters,  and  just  before  that,  one  for  the  Society  of 
Mining  Engineers.  In  this  Plaza  the  numerous  Italian  resi- 
dents of  Lima  have  recently  erected  a  monument  to  the 
famous  Italian  engineer,  Antonio  Raimondi,  who  for  many 
weary  years  wandered  over  the  great  territory  of  Peru,  inves- 
tigating its  mineral  resources,  and  making  topographic  obser- 
vations which  he  embodied  in  a  series  of  maps  on  a  very  large 
scale.  Though  not  perfect  in  every  detail,  they  are  remarkably 
accurate  in  view  of  the  difficulties  under  which  he  labored. 
One  intending  to  make  exploration  in  the  interior  should  pro- 
vide himself  with  Raimondi  maps  of  the  sections  to  be  visited, 
these  being  on  sale  at  two  soles  each  at  the  large  book  stores 
in  Lima.  Crossing  the  Plaza  to  calle  de  Junin,  the  Church 
and  Hospital  of  Santa  Ana  are  on  the  right.  Turning  at 
Junin  to  the  left,  back  towards  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  at  the 
next  corner  will  be  found  the  Casa  de  Moneda  or  Mint.  This 
is  not  always  open  to  the  public  but  may  be  visited  on  one  or 
two  afternoons  of  the  week,  as  may  be  ascertained  by  inquiry. 
The  gold  and  silver  coins  here  made  are  of  the  finest  work- 
manship and  of  high  grade  metal.  The  Numismatical  Museum 
of  the  Mint  contains  a  splendid  collection  of  medals  from  all 
parts  of  the  world,  as  well  as  copies  of  all  those  coined  from 
the  time  of  Independence  to  the  present. 

At  the  next  corner  on  the  left  is  the  Church  of  St.  Thomas 
and  beyond  that  on  the  cross  street  is  the  Prison  and  the  Cor- 
rectional School  for  Women.  On  the  following  corner  of 
Junin,  at  the  right  is  the  Church  of  Caridad,  Charity,  facing 
the  Plaza  of  the  Inquisieion.  Turning  here  to  the  right  we 
find  in  construction  the  new  building  for  both  Houses  of 
Congress,  while  keeping  straight  ahead  with  the  pretty  garden 
on  the  right  we  should  observe  the  handsome  Doric  portico 
of  the  building  long  used  as  the  Senate  Chamber,  formerly 
occupied  by  the  Tribunals  of  the  Inquisition,  which  even  on 
our  "Western  Continent  sought  to  stifle  free  thought.  The 
Indians,  luckily,  were  excused  from  its  Mndly  ministrations, 
the  only  charity  at  that  time  extended  to  them.  The  ceiling 
of  fine  carved  mahogany  inspires  admiration  for  its  excellent 


76  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

workmanship  of  native  skill.  A  mahogany  table  now  used 
for  writing  the  laws  of  the  nation  was  formerly  in  service  for 
drawing  up  the  decrees  of  death.  A  noticeable  feature  of  this 
Plaza  is  an  equestrian  Statue  in  bronze  of  the  liberator, 
Bolivar.  Sculptured  on  the  pedestal  of  white  marble  are  bas 
reliefs  representing  the  battles  of  Junin  and  of  Ayacucho. 
In  spite  of  the  thin  atmosphere  at  a  height  equal  to  that  of  the 
top  of  Pike's  Peak,  there  was  severe  and  gallant  fighting  on 
both  sides. 

One  may  return  from  here  to  the  Plaza  by  calle  Junin,  or 
going  one  block  to  the  right  and  then  to  the  left  may  pass  the 
Church  and  Plaza  San  Francisco.  This  imposing  building 
contains  in  the  sacristy  a  valuable  collection  of  paintings; 
paneled  ceilings  with  finely  carved  beams,  and  floor  of  blue 
tiles,  in  the  cloisters;  and  carved  stalls  in  the  gallery.  Fol- 
lowing the  ear  track  to  the  left  one  soon  returns  to  the 
Cathedral  and  Plaza. 

Of  the  sixty-seven  churches  in  Lima  a  few  merit  a  visit. 
The  most  important  are  fortunately  near  the  centre  of  the  city. 
On  the  corner  beyond  the  Post  Office,  as  one  goes  from  the 
Plaza,  is  the  Church  of  Santo  Domingo.  The  roof  over  the 
main  entrance  is  spoken  of  as  the  richest  and  most  elaborate 
work  of  art  in  Lima.  In  the  floor  of  the  first  cloister  the  blue 
tilings  laid  in  1606  are  noteworthy.  The  collection  of  paint- 
ings in  the  vestry  includes  a  Murillo  representing  San  Antonio, 
and  a  portrait  of  Santa  Eosa  by  Matias  Maestro.  A  celebrated 
chapel  by  Fray  Martin  de  Porras  contains  a  valuable  col- 
lection of  paintings  by  Eoman  Nicolette  of  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury; fourteen  works  representing  the  twelve  Apostles,  St. 
Paul,  and  John  the  Baptist.  Especially  notable  is  a  beautiful 
marble  statue  of  Santa  Eosa,  standing  on.  a  silver  pedestal 
which  is  studded  with  jewels.  Santa  Eosa,  Isabel  de  Oliva, 
born  in  Peru  in  1556,  led  a  life  so  remarkable  for  its  saintly 
purity  that  she  was  canonized  by  Pope  Clement  X,  the  only 
American  ever  distinguished  by  such  an  honor.  She  became 
patron  saint  of  the  whole  of  America,  the  West  Indies,  and  the 
Philippines,  her  festival  being  celebrated  August  30.  Her 
remains  repose  in  the  church  in  the  altar  of  Santa  Eosa,  on 
the  base  of  which  is  portrayed  in  marble  the  scene  of  her 
deathbed.  The  church  contains  also  a  silver,  altar  to  Our 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS  77 

Lady  of  the  Bosary,  a  madonna  with  a  rosary  of  large  pearls, 
and  relics  of  Fray  Martin  de  Porras  and  others. 

At  the  corner  where  the  Church  of  St.  Domingo  is  situated 
one  may  turn  to  the  left,  and  after  two  blocks  on  the  ealle 
de  Camana  he  will9  reach  the  Church  of  St.  Augustm  where 
the  stone  fa§ade  in  the  baroco  style,  the  choir,  and  the  table 
of  the  vestry  deserve  attention.  The  organ  is  called  the  finest 
in  Lima.  The  platform  of  the  ancient  chapter  room,  now  the 
chapel  of  the  college,  and  a  painting  of  St.  Augustin  are  of 
interest,  but  the  distinguishing  ornament  of  the  church  is  a 
remarkable  statue  in  wood  representing  Death,  the  work  of 
a  monk,  Baltazar  Gavilan,  who  it  is  said  died  from  the  shock 
of  seeing  it  during  an  attack  of  delirium  tremens.  Twelve 
oil  portraits  on  copper  of  the  Disciples,  by  an  unknown  artist, 
are  called  excellent  in  drawing,  conception,  and  coloring. 

After  one  block  more  on  Camana,  and  then  one  to  the  left, 
the  Church  of  La  Merced  is  reached  on  the  corner  of  La  Union 
and  Ayacucho.  This  large  and  fashionable  church  has  a  high, 
altar  the  front  of  which  is  silver  elaborately  worked.  There 
are  good  carvings  on  some  of  the  side  altars,  and  paintings  of 
merit  in  the  sacristy.  Continuing  two  blocks  along  Ayacucho 
and  one  to  the  left,  one  reaches  San  Pedro,  the  church  of  the 
Jesuits,  also  fashionable.  The  wood  carvings  of  the  entrance 
doorway  and  of  the  massive  altar  are  worth  seeing,  also  its 
burnished  gold  scroll  work,  the  tiled  wainscoting,  and  the 
paintings  and  carvings  in  the  sacristy. 

These  churches  are  best  seen  during  the  forenoon,  as  in  the 
afternoon  they  are  often  closed.  There  is  an  Anglo-Amer- 
ican Episcopal  Church  on  the  calle  de  Carabaya  in  the  sixth 
block  from  the  Maury,  Pacae  226,  where  service  is  held  Sun- 
day mornings  at  ten,  others  at  varying  hours.  The  chaplain, 
Kev.  Archibald  Nicol,  lives  next  door,  Pacae  228.  At  Callao 
there  is  another  Anglo-American  Church,  not  Episcopal,  with 
services  in  English  at  10.30  a.  m.  and  8.00  p.  m.,  calle 
Teatro  25. 

At  least  half  a  day  should  be  devoted  to  a  visit  to  the 
Palace  of  the  Exposition  which  may  be  reached  by  electric 
car,  down  the  calle  de  la  Union,  or  by  the  calle  de  Abancay 
three  blocks  from  the  Maury  in  the  opposite  direction,  as  well 
as  by  carriage.  By  the  former  route  one  passes  the  Municipal 


.  78  THE  SOUTH  AMBEICAN  TOUR 

Theater  on  Union  street,  and  beyond,  the  square  in  which  the 
Penitentiary  is  located.  This  building  is  called  a  model  and 
may  be  visited  by  interested  persons  who  procure  a  permit 
from  the  proper  official.  The  next  square  is  a  handsome 
shaded  park  called  the  Parque  Colon.  This  contains  a  monu- 
ment to  President  Manuel  Candamo,  which  was  unveiled 
Sept.  8,  1912.  On  the  farther  side  of  the  park  is  a  pretty 
building,  the  Institute  of  Hygiene,  fitted  up  with  laboratories 
of  the  latest  pattern  for  the  analysis  of  water,  foods,  etc. 

In  the  center  of  the  Plaza  where  the  cars  turn  is  the  Monu- 
ment erected  to  the  famous  General  San  Martin,  whose  name 
is  honored  all  over  South  America  as  that  of  Washington  in 
North  America,  an  equally  sincere  and  disinterested  patriot, 
a  great  general;  less  happy  in  his  later  life,  though  highly 
honored  after  his  death.  He  is  here  represented  proclaiming 
the  independence  of  Peru.  On  the  column  is  a  winged 
female  symbolizing  Glory.  This  handsome  monument  was 
presented  to  the  city  by  Col.  Lorenzo  Perez  Roca. 

The  Exposition  Palace  is  a  large  white  building  where  the 
Chamber  of  Deputies  temporarily  meets  and  the  Department 
of  Fom-ento  is  housed ,-  with  halls  where  lectures  and  concerts 
are  occasionally  held  and  grand  balls  are  given.  It  was  the 
scene  of  two  functions  in  honor  of  Secretary  Eoot,  the  first 
when  he  was  incorporated  into  the  University  of  St.  Mark  as 
honorary  member  of  the  Faculty  of  Administrative  and  Po- 
litical Sciences  in  the  presence  of  the  President  of  the  Republic 
and  other  officials  of  the  University  and  the  State.  Here,  too, 
was  given  by  the  Town  Council  of  Lima  a  magnificent  ball 
in  Mr.  Root's  honor,  to  which  1500  invitations  were  issued. 
The  elegance  of  the  whole  affair,  in  the  decorations,  gowns, 
refreshments,  and  other  particulars  was  equal  to  that  of  simi- 
lar functions  in  any  part  of  the  world.  On  the  upper  floor  of 
the  building  is  the  National  Historical  and  Anthropological 
Museum,  open  from  2  to  5  p.  m.  except  on  Monday.  Over  the 
latter  section  Dr.  Max  Uhle,  a  distinguished  German  scientist 
and  a  noted  authority  on  prehistoric  Peru,  has  long  presided. 
The  present  Director  is  Emilio  Gutierrez  de  Quintanilla.  Dr. 
Uhle  by  excavations  at  Pachacamac  and  elsewhere  greatly 
enlarged  this  collection,  probably  the  most  valuable  in  exist- 
ence in  its  own  specialty.  Some  of  the  specimens  of  pottery 


PASEO  COLON  AND   EXPOSITION  PALACE 


IN  THE  MUSEUM,  EXPOSITION  BUILDING 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS  79 

are  believed  to  have  been  produced  previous  to  the  Christian 
Era.  The  origin  of  the  various  articles  and  their  period  are 
indicated  on  the  cases.  Exceedingly  curious  and  weird  are 
many  of  the  objects,  and  even  one  who  has  no  taste  for 
archseological  relics  can  hardly  fail  to  be  interested  in  the 
extraordinary,  sometimes  beautiful,  examples  of  pottery,  in 
the  figures  of  Indians,  in  the  mummies,  and  other  objects. 
The  examples  of  the  strange  articles  used  at  the  present  day 
by  the  Indians  in  the  remote  montana  region  equally  impress 
the  observer. 

The  relics  of  early  colonial  days,  souvenirs  of  various  battles, 
of  the  generals  of  the  "War  of  Independence,  will  be  examined 
with  sympathetic  regard  by  the  tourist  who  has  some  famil- 
iarity with  Spanish  American  history.  An  Art  Gallery  with 
a  number  of  historical  paintings,  and  others  of  general  char- 
acter occupies  one  corner  of  the  same  floor. 

In  a  smaller  building  to  the  northeast  is  a  permanent  indus- 
trial exhibition  which  the  specialist  only  will  care  to  study. 
Between  these  buildings  is  the  entrance  to  the  Park,  for  which 
a  fee  of  10  centavos  is  charged.  This  park  of  thirty  acres  is 
a  delightful  promenade  with  shaded  walks,  palm  and  other 
trees,  artificial  lakes,  a  kiosk,  conservatories  with  orchids  and 
various  other  plants ;  it  is  also  a  Zoological  Garden.  Here  and 
there  are  cages  of  animals  of  various  kinds,  one  a  spacious 
and  lofty  dwelling  for  many  birds,  including  a  pair  of  the 
famous  condors,  which  the  tourist  is  not  likely  to  see  on  the 
journey  except  in  captivity.  Bears  and  other  animals  are  in 
other  cages.  In  1911  the  finest  pair  of  lions  that  I  ever 
chanced  to  see,  and  four  lively  cubs  excited  admiration. 
.Within  the  park  at  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  an  excellent 
Restaurant  kept  by  the  proprietors  of  the  Hotel  Maury,  a 
fashionable  place  to  dine.  Down  beyond  the  Zoological  Gar- 
den, on  the  side  where  the  electrics  go  to  Chorillos,  is  the 
'Shooting  Club  of  Lima  and  fields  for  cricket,  tennis,  and  other 
sports. 

The  Avenue  on  which  the  Exposition  Palace  faces  is  named 
the  9th  of  December,  but  oftener  called  the  Paseo  Colon.  It 
is  the  popular  driveway,  half  a  mile  long  and  150  feet  wide, 
leading  to  the  Plaza  Bolognesi.  Lined  on  the  side  towards 
the  city  with  handsome  modern  residences,  it  has  along  the. 


80  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

center  a  garden,  with  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  on  each  side 
of  a  broad  walk.  On  the  occasion  of  Secretary  Boot's  visit 
there  were  additional  arrangements  for  electric  lights,  and  on 
the  evening  after  his  arrival  the  Paseo  was  brilliantly  illu- 
minated with  these,  as  well  as  by  a  splendid  display  of  fire- 
worts.  The  Paseo  was  thronged  with  people  who  enthu- 
siastically welcomed  their  distinguished  guest. 

The  Statue  of  Columbus  on  the  Paseo  must  not  be  over- 
looked. He  is  represented  as  the  Discoverer  of  America, 
which  is  personified  by  the  Indian  woman  kneeling  at  his  side. 
This  was  the  model  for  the  statue  at  Colon  and  was  designed 
by  Salvatore  Revelli. 

The  Plaza  Bolognesi  is  a  spacious  circle,  a  fine  setting  for  the 
statue  in  the  center  to  Col.  Bolognesi,  who  fell  at  Arica  in  the; 
war  with  Chile,  June  8,  1880.  When  asked  to  surrender  he 
replied,  "Not  till  I  have  used  my  last  cartridge,"  and  so  fell- 
The  statue  represents  the  hero  sinking  with  a  mortal  woundr 
yet  still  holding  the  flag  of  his  country.  Around  the  base  of 
the  column  on  which  the  hero  stands  are  sculptured  in  marble 
allegorical  scenes. 

Six  avenues  are  designed  to  radiate  from  this  plaza,  one, 
towards  the  center  of  the  city,  called  the  Central,  to  be  a  con- 
tinuation of  the  calle  de  la  Union.  In  the  opposite  direction 
extends  the  Avenue  Pierola.  On  this  a  car  track  leads  out 
to  the  suburb  Magdalena,  one  of  the  pleasant  shore  resorts 
with  which  Lima  is  favored.  Between  this  and  the  Avenue 
9th  of  December  is  one  leading  to  the  Hippodrome.  The 
races,  generally  held  on  Sunday  afternoon,  are  attended  by 
large  crowds  of  fashionable  and  other  people.  The  grand- 
stand belongs  to  the  Jockey  Club,  which  has  charge  of  the 
races  and  conducts  them  according  to  general  custom. 

Some  distance  beyond  the  Hippodrome  is  the  School  of 
Agriculture  and  the  Sugar  Experiment  Station,  both  of  these 
institutions  well  conducted  and  doing  a  valuable  work  for  the 
promotion  of  agricultural  industry.  A  great  variety  of  plants 
is  cultivated,  and  experiments  are  made  with  soils  of  many 
kinds.  Instruction  is  given  to  a  considerable  number  of 
students. 

Proceeding  from  the  Exposition  Palace  in  the  direction 
opposite  to  the  Plaza  Bolognesi,  following  the  Avenue  Grau, 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS  81 

one  would  after  a  few  blocks  pass  the  Italian  Hospital  on  tbe 
left,  and  a  little  farther  reach  the  School  of  Arts  and  Crafts 
on  the  right,  Escuela  de  Artes  y  Oficios,  of  which  Senor 
Valente  is  director.  Here  are  taught  clay  modeling  and  sculp- 
ture, decorative  art  and  composition,  the  history  of  art  and 
aesthetics ;  and  models  of  various  works  are  usually  to  be  seen. 
A  foundry  for  art  bronzes,  it  is  hoped,  will  soon  be  added. 
Of  still  greater  importance  are  the  courses  designed  to  pro- 
duce honest  and  capable  mechanics,  which  are  well  accom- 
plishing their  purpose. 

In  the  next  block  on  the  left  is  the  large  building  of  the 
Medical  School;  the  Eaimondi  Museum  on  the  upper  floor, 
open  from  eleven  to  twelve,  has  sections  devoted  to  Botany, 
Ethnology,  Zoology,  etc.  In  the  rear  of  the  building  is  the 
Botanical  Garden,  containing  specimens  of  every  tree  and 
plant  to  be  found  in  Peru.  Owing  to  the  varied  climates  of 
the  country  arising  from  the  difference  in  altitude,  a  wonder- 
ful diversity  of  productions  results.  The  entrance  is  adorned 
with  stately  palms ;  gorgeous  and  beautiful  flowers  and  shrubs 
will  be  found  within.  A  pe  tree  bears  a  strange  fruit,  which, 
bursting  open  when  ripe,  shows  within  a  pretty  flower  with 
scarlet  seeds  called  the  chusia.  Cards  of  admission  are  ob- 
tained at  the  Medical  School. 

Continuing  along  the  avenue  one  passes  the  large  Dos  de 
Mayo  Hospital  and  still  farther,  on  the  Avenue  of  Circum- 
vallation,  the  Cavalry  Barracks  and  the  Arsenal  of  War* 

Other  objects  of  interest  are  near  the  center  of  the  city. 
The  National  Library  is  on  the  calle  del  Ueayali  on  the  right 
hand  side,  at  the  end  of  the  second  block  to  the  left  or  south- 
east of  the  one  on  which  the  Maury  is  situated.  One  of  the 
first  acts  after  the  inauguration  of  the  Republic,  previous,  in- 
deed, to  the  final  battles  of  the  war,  was  the  creation  of  the 
National  Library.  On  the  17th  of  September,  1822,  it  was 
opened  to  the  public  with  a  collection  of  about  12,000  volumes, 
many  of  which  were  of  great  value.  Unfortunately,  while  the 
Chilian  army  was  in  occupation  of  Lima  in  1881,  this  library, 
then  containing  50,000  works,  was  ruthlessly  destroyed,  a  por- 
tion being  carried  to  Chile,  and  the  remainder  scattered  about 
the  streets  or  sold  at  auction  by  weight.  The  later  restoration 
of  the  library  was  chiefly  due  to  Dr.  Eicardo  Palma,  who  re- 


82  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

mained  its  Director  until  1912.  Dr.  Palma  by  diligent  effort 
collected  many  of  the  old  books  and  priceless  manuscripts; 
many  patriotic  Peruvians  made  contributions;  sympathetic 
nations,  Spain,  Argentina,  Ecuador,  the  United  States,  sent 
gifts.  A  collection  of  5000  volumes  was  presented  by  the 
'  Smithsonian  Institute.  In  1884  the  library  was  reopened  with 
28,000  volumes;  it  now  contains  60,000.  Still  in  its  old  loca- 
tion, a  building  earlier  occupied  by  the  College  of  the  Caciques, 
an  institution  for  the  education  of  the  descendants  of  the 
Inca  rulers,  a  new  building  is  greatly  needed  and  no  doubt 
will  soon  be  provided.  Senor  Manuel  Gonzales  is  the  present 
director.  Among  the  treasures  of  the  library  is  an  edition  of 
Cervantes'  works  called  the  Argamosilla,  printed  from  silver 
type. 

In  the  same  building  on  the  floor  above,  are  the  rooms  of 
the  Lima  Geographical  Society,  designed  especially  to  foster 
geographical  study  and  research  in  Peru.  It  has  a  consider- 
able membership,  including  the  most  noted  scholars  and  states- 
men of  the  country ;  the  library  contains  many  valuable  works 
and  the  leading  geographical  magazines  of  the  world.  The 
Society  of  Mining  Engineers  long  had  rooms  in  this  building 
but  have  recently  removed  to  their  new  quarters  a  few  blocks 
away. 

Turning  the  corner  to  the  right  by  the  side  of  the  library 
building  one  will  find  at  the  next  corner  the  Palace  of  Justice. 
One  block  more  after  a  second  turn  to  the  right  brings  one  to 
the  calle  de  Azangaro,  the  Normal  School  for  Girls  occupying 
a  considerable  portion  of  the  block  on  the  right.  The  entrance 
is  near  the  Church  of  San  Pedro.  Four  blocks  to  the  left  down 
Azangaro,  but  fronting  on  the  calle  del  Inambari,  is  the  Uni- 
versity of  San  Marcos,  the  oldest  in  the  Western  Hemisphere, 
founded  in  1551,  almost  a  century  earlier  than  Harvard. 
Established  under  a  charter  from  Emperor  Charles  V  and  his 
mother,  Queen  Joana,  it  was  at  first  in  the  monastery  of  Santo 
Domingo  and  under  the  charge  of  that  Order.  Twenty  years 
later  by  order  of  Philip  II  the  University  was  secularized,  and 
in  1574  it  received  the  designation  of  San  Marcos.  In  1576  a 
building  was  c6nstructed  for  its  use  in  the  Plaza  de  la  Inquisi- 
cion.  After  two  centuries  in  this  location  it  was  trans- 
ferred to  its  present  site,  formerly  that  of  the  Jesuit  college 


STATUE  OF  BOLIVAR,   PLAZA  DE  LA  INQUISICION 


PERUVIAN  MUMMY,   UNIVERSITY  OF  SAN  MARCOS 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS  83 

of  San  Carlos,  then  united  with  the  University.  Dr.  Don 
Luis  F.  Villaran  has  been  rector  of  the  University  since  1905. 
The  University  embraces  Schools  or  Departments  of  Law, 
Medicine,  Theology,  Science,  Philosophy  and  Letters,  and  Ad- 
ministrative and  Political  Science,  in  which  a  high  standard 
of  scholarship  is  maintained ;  the  Medical  School,  as  we  have 
seen,  occupies  a  separate  building.  The  rooms  are  grouped 
around  several  patios.  There  is  an  assembly  hall  with  a  hand- 
some carved  ceiling,  and  in  the  museum  are  curious  mummies. 
A  University  Eeview  is  published  monthly.  A  few  years  ago 
a  Centro  was  established,  somewhat  after  the  fashion  of  the 
Harvard  Union.  Women  are  admitted  to  the  University. 

The  Engineering  School  is  in  quite  another  direction  on 
the  calle  del  Callao,  four  blocks  from  the  southwest  corner 
of  the  Plaza  de  Armas.  This,  established  in  1876,  continued 
under  the  direction  of  the  Polish  engineer,  Senor  Eduardo 
Habich,  until  his  death  in  1911.  The  school  has  complete 
laboratories,  and  courses  in  mining,  civil,  electric,  and  me- 
chanical engineering;  all  of  which  in  a  country  like  Peru  are 
of  infinite  importance. 

The  fine  large  school  for  boys  in  a  splendid  building  on 
Avenue  Alfonso  Ugarte,  the  Collegio  de  Guadalupe,  well  de- 
serves a  visit. 

The  portion  of  Lima  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  Eimae 
should  not  be  ignored.  Passing  from  the  Plaza  by  Carabaya 
street,  one  comes  to  the  fine  new  railway  station  of  Desem- 
parados,  completed  in  the  fall  of  1912.  After  one  block  to 
the  left  a  turn  to  the  right  leads  one  to  the  bridge  across  the 
,  Eimae,  the  river  recently  improved  by  being  enclosed  within 
a  suitable  channel.  So  much  water  is  drawn  off  for  irrigation 
all  along  its  course  that  little  is  left  in  the  ancient  river  bed. 
To  one  who  wishes  to  see  the  life  of  the  common  people  the 
walk  affords  good  opportunity,  but  a  drive  to  the  Jardin  de 
los  Descalzos,  the  Garden  of  the  Barefooted  Friars,  will  be 
generally  preferred.  The  garden  extends  half  a  mile  or  more 
along  a  broad  avenue.  It  contains,  besides  plants  and  trees, 
handsome  urns,  marble  benches,  and  twelve  statues  represent- 
ing the  'Signs  of  the  Zodiac.  At  the  end  is  a  fountain,  and 
beyond,  the  ancient  Church  and  Convent  of  the  Friars  under 
the  shadow  of  the  hill,  San  Christobal.  A  path  leads  up  from 


84  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

this  point,  but  the  more  usual  route  is  farther  east.  Return- 
ing from  the  Garden,  one  may  take  the  first  turn  to  the  left, 
then  one  to  the  right  past  the  Butt  'Ring,  seating  8000  spec- 
tators and  called  the  largest  in  the  New  "World.  It  lies 
practically  in  front  of  the  Batta  Bridge,  a  modern  structure 
named  for  one  of  the  Presidents.  The  Bull  Eing,  said  to  be 
the  second  largest  in  the  world,  is  on  Sunday  afternoons  often 
thronged  with  spectators  to  witness  this  cruel  sport,  which 
•will  doubtless  before  many  years  be  discontinued,  as  already 
at  Buenos  Aires  and  in  most  other  cities  of  South  America. 
Before  returning  by  the  Balta  Bridge,  the  Alameda  de  Acho 
on  the  right  hand  should  be  visited.  This  was  once  a  fash- 
ionable promenade  and  still  boasts  of  large  handsome  trees, 
tall  poplars  forming  three  roadways. 

It  would  be  a  pity  to  ignore  the  Cerro  or  Hill  of  San  Chris- 
iobal,  which  rises  900  feet  above  the  city.  There  is  an  easy 
path  by  which  the  ascent  may  be  made,  but  for  the  benefit  of 
the  lame  and  the  lazy  an  Aerial  Tramway  has  recently  been 
established;  the  transit  requiring  8  or  10  minutes  begins  at 
Los  Banos  del  Pueblo  near  the  Alameda  de  los  Descalzos. 
The  summit  on  a  clear  day  affords  a  delightful  view  of  the 
city,  the  irrigated  valley,  the  hills,  the  mountains,  and  the 
sea,  which  should  well  repay  the  effort  of  the  climb,  itself 
agreeable  except  to  the  incorrigibly  indolent.  More  enticing 
than  the  view  to  some,  will  be  the  opportunity  of  visiting  the 
Great  Tower  for  Wireless  Telegraphy,  which  rises  350  feet 
above  the  crest  of  the  hill.  It  is,  indeed,  a  triumph  for  wire- 
less. Messages  across  the  sea  seem  not  so  wonderful :  but  to 
send  them  over  mountains  and  broad  plateau,  over  or  through 
a  wall  three  and  a  half  miles  high  and  100  miles  thick  appears 
marvellous.  This  wireless  station,  one  of  the  highest  powered 
in  the  world,  has  sent  messages  not  only  to  Iquitos  on  the 
Amazon,  1030  kilometers  away,  for  which  purpose  it  was  espe- 
cially designed,  in  order  to  ensure  communication  between  the 
central  government  and  this  important  Peruvian  commercial 
outpost,  but  also  to  Manaos  in  Brazil,  2300  kilometers  (1435 
miles)  distant.  The  great  mountain  range  between  the  two 
cities  averages  18,000  feet  in  height,  while  beyond  are  dense 
tropical  forests.  The  construction  company  did  not  venture 
to  guarantee  the  success  of  an  untried  service,  promising  only 


LIMA,  THE  CITY  OP  THE  KINGS  85 

to  build  an  intermediate  station  if  necessary.  The  great  suc- 
cess of  the  undertaking  renders  this  superfluous.  The  station 
at  the  other  end  is  Itaya,  two  miles  from  Iquitos.  The  towers 
are  identical,  triangular  steel  structures,  each  weighing  120 
tons.  They  rest  on  a  concrete  base  by  a  steel  ball  point,  in- 
sulated by  thick  glass  plates.  Each  is  kept  vertical  by  means 
of  three  heavy  steel  cables  at  three  angles.  A  power  of  10 
kilowatts  is  supplied  but  7  only  are  used.  The  service  was 
inaugurated  June  16,  1912,  with  suitable  ceremonies  both  at 
Lima  and  Iquitos.  President  Leguia,  other  officials  and  cit- 
izens to  the  number  of  3000,  made  the  ascent  of  the  Cerro, 
though  the  hilltop  was  not  large  enough  to  contain  all,  the 
crowd  as  it  were  slipping  over  the  edges.  After  various 
speeches  the  President  started  the  machinery.  At  5.05  a  mes- 
sage of  congratulation  was  sent  and  at  5.17  the  reply  was  re- 
ceived. Then  was  unveiled  a  bronze  tablet  bearing  the  in- 
scription in  Spanish :  '  *  This  station  was  inaugurated  in  1912. 
His  Excellency,  Augusto  B.  Leguia,  President  of  the  Republic, 
Dr.  Jose  Manuel  Garcia,  Minister  of  Pomento,  Dr.  Edmundo 
N.  de  Habich,  Director  of  Fomento.  A.  E.  Tamayo  and  K.  J. 
Holmvang,  engineers  in  charge  of  construction.  The  Tele- 
funken  Company,  June,  1912. " 

A  monument  which  should  not  be  overlooked  by  the  tourist 
is  the  Dos  de  Mayo  standing  in  a  circle,  and  passed  by  the 
electric  cars  to  Callao.  This  monument  commemorates  the 
victory  of  May  2,  1866,  when  an  attack  of  the  Spanish  fleet 
upon  Callao  was  repelled  and  the  Spaniards  were  finally  driven 
from  the  Pacific  coast.  A  column  of  Carrara  marble  75  feet 
high  is  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  victory.  Around  the  base 
are  figures  representing  the  countries  of  Peru,  Bolivia, 
Ecuador,  and  Chile. 


CHAPTER  X 

THE  SUBURBS  OF  LIMAr— THE  OROYA  RAILWAY— 
CERRO  DE  PASCO 

Chorillos.  "Witli  sufficient  time  at  one's  disposal  a  few  days 
may  be  pleasantly  spent  in  visiting  the  shore  resorts  near  the 
capital.  The  electric  cars  which  pass  on  the  calle  de  Abancay, 
the  third  street  southeast  from  the  Maury,  are  the  means  of 
transit  to  Miraflores,  Barranco  and  Chorillos,  all  pleasant 
places  of  residence,  though  Chorillos  is  especially  fashionable. 
The  last  named,  before  the  Chilian  war,  was  the  most  fre- 
quented summer  resort  in  South  America,  but  after  the  battle 
of  Chorillos  in  1881  it  was  completely  destroyed  by  the  in- 
vaders. Rebuilt  during  the  last  quarter  of  a  century,  it  is 
again  beautiful  with  many  charming  homes.  The  town  is 
located  100  feet  above  the  beach  of  a  sheltered  cove,  which  is 
partly  enclosed  by  a  cliff.  A  promenade  along  the  edge  is  a 
fashionable  resort  for  tourists  and  townspeople,  to  enjoy  the 
cool  breezes,  and  the  sunset  in  the  broad  Pacific.  Close  at 
hand  an  eminence  of  2000  feet  called  Morro  Solar  enhances 
the  beauty  of  the  scene.  A  shady  pathway  leads  down  to  the 
beach,  which  affords  excellent  bathing  with  a  moderate  surf. 
The  regular  population  of  3000,  greatly  increased  in  the  sum- 
mer, is  daily  further  augmented  by  those  who  come  for  the 
bathing  and  the  other  diversions  of  a  watering  place :  boating, 
music,  dancing,  etc.  At  the  Casino  are  held  many  fashionable 
social  affairs ;  and  the  Regatta  Club  gives  frequent  entertain- 
ments when  the  bay,  covered  with  boats  of  various  descriptions, 
presents  a  pretty  spectacle.  "Worthy  of  a  visit  is  the  Military 
School  here  located,  a  fine  institution  for  the  education  of 
army  officers,  and  an  excellent  training  school  for  the  Indian 
soldiers. 

Beyond  Chorillos  the  electric  cars  continue  by  a  tunnel 
through  Morro  Solar  to  La  Herradura,  another  bathing  resort. 

86 


THE  SUBURBS  OF  LIMA  87 

Barranca  and  Hiraflores,  nearer  to  Lima,  are  almost  continu- 
ous with  Chorillos  and  are  connected  by  pleasant,  shaded 
driveways.  Magdalena,  a  shore  resort  still  nearer  Lima,  is 
reached  by  a  different  electric  car  line. 

A  very  popular  resort  with  a  fine  new  hotel,  the  Eden,  is 
La  Punta,  down  beyond  Callao,  whence  electric  cars,  connect- 
ing with  those  from  Lima,  for  five  centavos  carry  passengers  to 
the  extremity  of  the  sandy  point  ever  refreshed  by  cool  breezes. 
Here  the  Naval  School's  excellent  new  building  is  located. 

Ancon.  Twenty-five  miles  north  of  Lima,  on  the  opposite 
side  from  Chorillos,  is  Ancon,  more  especially  a  health  resort, 
its  sandy  soil  and  dry  atmosphere  making  it  especially  desir- 
able for  persons  with  pulmonary  and  bronchial  affections. 
There  is  good  bathing,  a  tennis  court,  one  or  two  hotels,  the 
Grand  said  to  be  comfortable,  and  many  cottages ;  but  it  is  less 
attractive  than  the  resorts  at  the  south.  It  has,  however,  an 
allurement  peculiarly  its  own  in  being  renowned  as  a  necropo- 
lis of  pre-historic  treasures.  Ancon  is  reached  by  a  steam 
railway  from  the  Desamparados  station  in  an  hour  and  a  half 
or  so,  and  the  ride  gives  one  a  view  of  the  genuine  unirrigated 
desert.  The  journey  may  now  be  pursued  to  the  town  of 
Huacho,  about  90  miles  farther. 

Pachacamac.  Persons  who  are  interested  in  antiquities 
should  make  the  excursion  to  Pachacamae,  whose  ruins  are 
believed  to  antedate  any  others  in  Peru  and  to  go  back  two 
or  three  thousand  years.  The  place  is  not  accessible  by  rail,, 
carriage,  or  boat,  yet  it  may  be  visited  in  a  single  day  by  a 
vigorous,  enterprising  person  who  is  able  to  make  suitable 
arrangements  in  advance.  The  site  of  this  ancient  sanc- 
tuary and  city  is  nearly  25  miles  from  Lima,  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Chorillos.  Thither  one  should  go  by  the  earliest  morn- 
ing car,  to  be  met  there  by  a  guide  and  horses  with  which  to 
pursue  the  journey.  Dr.  Max  Uhle  made  extensive  excavations 
in  this  region.  The  ruins  are  in  the  Lurin  Valley,  the  loveliest 
south  of  Lima,  watered  by  a  stream  smaller  than  the  Eimac 
but  of  constant  supply.  In  the  period  of  the  invasion  it  was 
the  more  thickly  populated  of  the  two.  Wars,  and  the  efforts 
for  the  conversion  of  the  natives  by  religious  orders ^  caused 
the  ancient  city  in  the  course  of  the  century  following  the 
Spanish  invasion  to  become  a  scene  of  desolation. 


88  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Provisions  for  a  substantial  luncheon  should  be  taken  in 
saddle  bags,  though  fodder  for  the  animals  may  doubtless  be 
procured  at  the  hacienda  near  by  of  Don  Vicente  Silva.    A 
desert  called  the  Tablada  de  Lurin  is  crossed  between  the 
Bimac  and  Lurin  valleys.    Barren  islands  are  in  view  on  the 
right  with  myriads  of  pelicans  and  other  sea-fowl.    The  desert 
sands  drift  over  the  ruins,  on  the  north  side  of  the  valley,  600 
yards  from  the  ocean.    A  few  tillandsia  plants  show  a  little 
green  in  winter.    The  hooting  owl,  the  lizard,  and  a  small  viper 
are  the  only  forms  of  life.     The  neighboring  hills  rise  150  to 
250  feet  above  the  desert.    In  the  distance  two  villages  with 
their  church  spires  may  be  seen,  Pachaeamac  three  miles  back 
from  the  sea  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  and  Lurin  near  the 
coast,  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  ruins.    To  the  south  beyond 
is  desert ;  to  the  east,  45  miles  away,  the  outlying  bulwarks  of 
the  Andes  rise  9000  feet.    In  an  early  period  the  coast  for  120 
miles  from  Supe  to  Huaman  was  under  the  sway  of  Pacha- 
camac.   There  are  extensive  remains  in  many  places  about, 
and  traces  of  an  ancient  road  with  a  wall  along  the  center, 
one  side  for  the  ruler  and  his  retinue,  the  other  for  common 
people,  each  section  16  feet  wide.    The  place  was  conquered 
by  the  Incas  170  years  before  the  invasion  of  the  Spaniards, 
when  all  its  wealth  of  gold  had  already  disappeared.    The 
ancient  city,  2%  miles  long  and  1%  broad,  included  four 
hills,  on  one  of  which  in  the  center  of  the  town  the  Incas  later 
erected  a  temple  to  the  Sun.     The  original  sanctuary  to  the 
Creator  god,  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  Sun  god  of  the 
Incas,  stood  at  the  foot  of  a  hill  on  the  north  side  of  the  town 
nearly  on  a  level  with  the  city.    The  temple  which  faced  the 
coast  to  the  northwest  was  400  feet  long  and  180  wide  with 
terraced  sides  leading  to  a  plateau  above,  330  by  130  feet. 
There  are  rooms  supposed  to  be  for  the  reception  of  envoys, 
others  for  sacrificial  purpose.    They  were  gorgeously  decorated 
with  frescoes  of  bird  and  animal  designs,  with  doors  incrusted 
with  coral,  turquoise,  and  crystal.    Pilgrims  who  came  a  thou- 
sand miles  with  offerings  were  obliged  to  fast  for  twenty  days 
before  entering  the  first  court,  and  a  year  before  ascending  to 
the  holier  shrine  of  extraordinary  sanctity  above.    The  ceme- 
teries naturally  furnished  many  valuable  relics,  mummies, 
bones,  and  skulls,  fragments  of  cloth,  and  a  great  variety  of 


THE  SUBURBS  OF  LIMA'  89 

articles.  The  cemetery  connected  with  this  temple  was  the 
most  crowded,  though  burial  here  was  reserved  for  princes 
and  pilgrims  who  brought  rich  offerings.  Many  objects  have  a 
strong  resemblance  to  those  of  Tiahuanaco.  A  slab  of  Chavin 
de  Huantar  and  a  richly  ornamented  poncho  at  Ancon  are  of 
similar  style.  It  is  estimated  that  there  were  from  60,000  to 
80,000  graves  here,  some  in  open  cemeteries,  some  in  dwellings, 
besides  those  in  the  temple.  Most  of  these  were  rifled  ages  ago. 
This  is  thought  to  be  a  seat  of  the  earliest  civilization  of  the 
coast,  perhaps  extending  to  Ecuador,  while  the  Chimu  culture 
either  descended  from  it  or  was  influenced  by  it.  The  city  wall 
was  from  11  to  13  feet  high  and  8  feet  thick.  There  was  an 
inner  as  well  as  an  outer  wall.  The  streets  were  13  to  16  feet 
wide.  There  were  large  detached  edifices,  resembling  ruins 
at  Huatica  near  Lima,  and  one  group  of  crowded  buildings. 
The  term  Pachacamac  is  of  Quichua  origin,  the  earlier  name 
being  different,  perhaps  Irma  the  same  as  Wiraqocha.  The 
Sun  temple  half  a  mile  from  the  sea  is  on  a  terraced  rooky 
height  a  mile  and  a  quarter  in  circumference;  but  it  does 
not  compare  with  the  Mexican  pyramid  Cholula.  The  rooms 
may  be  traced,  and  the  stairway  with  steps  four  inches  high 
and  one  foot  four  inches  wide.  A  convent  for  the  Sun  maid- 
ens, accommodating  two  hundred,  fronts  the  green  fields. 
The  cemetery  on  the  southeast  terrace  of  the  Sun  temple  shows 
that  all  were  women  who  had  been  strangled  in  obvious  sac- 
rifice ;  thus  suffered  also  many  children  of  all  ages  for  the  pro- 
pitiation of  their  cruel  deity. 

The  Oroya  Kailway.  Whatever  else  may  be  omitted  from 
one's  programme  of  sightseeing  in  Peru,  a  journey  over  the 
Oroya  road  should  on  no  account  be  missed.  Long  enjoying 
the  reputation  of  the  highest  railway  in  the  world,  it  affords 
an  opportunity  to  climb  with  ease  in  a  few  hours  to  a  height 
as  great  as  that  of  the  summit  of  Mont  Blanc,  to  behold 
scenery  of  wonderful  grandeur,  and  a  historic  region  of 
remarkable  mineral  wealth,  the  second  of  the  three  great 
longitudinal  divisions  of  Peru.  Farther  on,  with  a  lit- 
tle more  trouble,  one  may  most  conveniently  obtain  a 
glimpse  of  the  third  and  by  far  the  largest  of  Peru's 
three  natural  divisions;  as  yet  thinly  peopled  and  lit- 
tle known,  but  ultimately,  perhaps,  to  prove  the  richest. 


90  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

The  practically  rainless  coast  region  from  50  to  100  miles 
wide,  all  desert  except  where  irrigated,  we  have  already 
seen.  Nest  comes  the  sierra  district  of  mountains  and  table- 
land, from  one  to  three  hundred  miles  wide,  where,  beyond 
the  Coast  Range,  there  is  plenty  of  rain  and  snow.  Varying 
in  height,  width,  and  in  the  number  of  parallel  mountain 
chains,  the  greatest  altitude  is  in  the  southern  and  central 
portions,  decreasing  north  of  7°  S.  Lat.  The  lofty  snowelad 
mountains,  the  multitude  of  lesser  peaks,  the  lakes,  small  and 
large,  the  countless  streams,  the  delightful  valleys,  the  deso- 
late plateau  sometimes  called  the  puna,  cut  by  narrow  gorges, 
present  a  marvellous  variety  of  scenery,  climate,  and  produc- 
tions. Here  are  two-thirds  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  country. 
The  forest  region  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  mountains  with 
the  lowlands  beyond,  all  called  the  montana,  is  at  first  won- 
derfully beautiful  with  soft,  genial  climate,  though,  below  an 
altitude  of  2000  feet  it  becomes  rather  warm,  in  a  few  spots 
unhealthy. 

By  the  Oroya  Railroad  a  great  elevation  is  attained  in 
fewer  hours  than  can  be  duplicated  elsewhere  in  the  world 
except  in  balloon  or  aeroplane.  Indeed,  the  time  of  the  ascent 
is  so  brief  that  some  persons  suffer  from  the  sudden  change 
in  the  pressure  of  the  atmosphere.  This  fact  has  given  rise  to 
alarming  representations,  on  the  part  of  many  native  and 
foreign  residents,  of  the  danger  involved  in  the  journey,  so 
that  many  tourists  are  frightened  out  of  the  excursion  to 
whom  it  would  be  a  genuine  delight.  The  truth  is  that  of 
the  thousands  who  each  month  go  over  the  road,  the  majority 
suffer  from  soroche,  mountain  sickness,  not  at  all,  or  with  little 
and  temporary  discomfort.  A  slight  headache  is  common;  it 
may  be  severe,  or  accompanied  by  nausea  and  vomiting.  A 
few  have  become  dangerously  ill  and  deaths  have  occurred, 
as  on  Pike's  Peak.  Two  classes  of  people  should  not  take  the 
risk,  those  with  weak  hearts  and  those  who  are  both  stout  and 
full  blooded.  Persons  merely  delicate  in  a  general  way  are 
less  likely  to  suffer  inconvenience  than  some  vigorous  Athletic 
persons.  One  doubtful  about  his  heart  should  have  it  ex- 
amined. Apprehensive  persons  who  would  be  sure  to  avoid 
trouble  may  get  off  at  Matucana,  and  a  day  or  two  later  com- 
fortably pursue  the  journey.  It  will  be  easier  for  every  one 


THE  OROYA  RAILWAY  91 

to  go  the  day  previous  to  Chosica  to  spend  the  night,  thus 
avoiding  an  unreasonably  early  start  in  the  morning.  Ordi- 
nary prudence  may  suggest  that  one  should  be  careful  not  to 
over-eat  the  day  before,  and  be  very  abstemious  on  the  trip, 
especially  as  to  alcoholic  liquors.  At  the  highest  points  one 
should  move  slowly  or  not  at  all.  A  brisk  walk  may  produce 
dizziness  or  worse. 

The  Central  Railway  of  Peru,  a  standard  gauge  line,  was 
begun  in  1870  by  the  American  financier,  Henry  Meiggs,  and 
completed  to  Chicla,  88  miles  from  Callao,  in  1876.  On 
account  of  the  troubles  resulting  from  the  Chilian  War  it  did 
not  reach  Oroya  until  1893.  For  some  years  this  was  the 
terminus  of  the  road  and  in  one  sense  is  so  still,  as  the  natural 
continuation  would  be  east,  over  to  the  montana,  country. 
There  are,  however,  branches  in  two  different  directions,  north 
and  south ;  the  former,  an  American  line  of  the  same  gauge 
to  Cerro  de  Pasco,  the  latter,  a  part  of  the  Central  system 
owned  by  the  Peruvian  Corporation,  now  open  to  Huancayo 
and  being  gradually  extended  to  the  southwest,  ultimately  to 
reach  Cuzco,  where  it  will  connect  with  the  Southern  Railway 
managed  by  the  same  corporation.  Both  of  the  branches  are 
on  the  line  of  the  Pan  American  Railway,  by  which  it  will 
some  day  be  possible,  perhaps  within  a  decade,  certainly  in 
two,  to  go  by  rail  from  New  York  to  Buenos  Aires,  a  wonder- 
ful journey  through  ever  changing  and  delightful  scenes.  By 
the  time  these  250  miles  from  Huancayo  to  Cuzco  are  finished, 
which  should  be  by  1918,  all  the  southern  part  from  Lima  to 
Buenos  Aires  will  be  ready,  as  Argentina's  portion  is  now 
complete  and  Bolivia's  will  be  finished  soon.  The  section  from 
Quito  to  Panama  will  linger  longest.  When  finished,  the  road 
in  my  opinion  will  be  a  far  greater  bond  of  union  between 
North  and  South  America  than  the  Panama  Canal. 

The  Oroya  Railroad  follows  the  Rimae  Valley  up  to  its  cul- 
minating point,  with  an  occasional  detour  into  a  side  canon 
to  gain  additional  height.  It  was  a  man  of  courage  and  large 
ideas  who  forty  years  ago  planned  to  climb  with  the  iron  horse, 
instead  of  the  ancient  burro  and  llama,  the  steep  and  lofty 
wall  which,  rising  in  its  lower  points  to  a  height  of  from  14,000 
to  17,000  feet,  stretches  for  1000  miles  along  the  coast  of  Peru 
within  100  miles  of  the  sea.  With  an  average  grade  of  four 


92  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

per  cent  it  was  the  second  road  from  the  Pacific  to  cross  the 
continental  divide,  though  it  still  remains  to  be  continued,  as 
Meiggs  planned,  down  to  a  point  open  to  steam  navigation  on 
one  of  the  branches  of  the  Amazon. 

Setting  out  on  this  trip  from  Lima,  one  must  rise  early,  as 
the  train  leaves  the  Desamparados  Station  at  6.50  a.  m.,  Mon- 
day, Wednesday,  and  Friday,  By  strenuous  insistence  the 
night  before,  you  may  be  able  to  have  coffee  and  rolls  brought 
to  your  room  before  your  departure;  but  if  you  fail,  a  ten 
minutes'  halt  at  Chosica  at  half  past  eight  affords  opportunity 
to  repair  the  omission. 

The  lower  part  of  the  Rimac  Yalley  has  an  apparently 
level  floor  of  considerable  breadth,  with  vegetation  of  a  sub- 
tropical character,  irrigation  affording  an  ample  water  supply. 
At  first  banana  groves  and  fields  of  sugar-cane  are  numerous ; 
patches  of  Indian  corn  and  alfalfa  continue  far  up  the  canon. 
The  view,  for  a  short  distance  somewhat  open  among  isolated 
hills,  narrows  as  we  enter  a  genuine  valley  with  steep  and 
ever  higher  walls,  their  slopes  thickly  terraced  and  bearing 
remains  of  ancient  highways  and  villages,  evidence  of  a 
formerly  far  greater  population  than  now.  After  much  wan- 
dering among  the  ruins  near  Chosica,  Professor  Solon  I. 
Bailey  estimated  an  earlier  number  of  6000  inhabitants,  where 
now  there  is  one-tenth  of  that  number. 

Chosica.  This  town,  at  train  time  a  busy  place,  is  growing 
rapidly  since,  with  several  daily  trains,  it  has  become  a  suburb 
of  the  capital  25  miles  distant.  It  is  especially  a  winter  resort, 
as,  located  just  beyond  the  edge  of  the  fog  bank  or  cloud  which 
in  that  season  hangs  over  the  coast,  it  has  plenty  of  sunshine. 
It  is  much  patronized  by  those  natives  and  foreigners  who 
find  the  chilly  dampness  from  May  to  October  rather  trying 
to  their  health.  The  Gran  Hotel  de  la  Estacion,  close  to  the 
station,  affording  comfortable  rooms,  is  the  best  place  to  stay 
over  night.  On  the  opposite  side  of  track  and  river  are  many 
pleasant  dwellings  in  pretty  gardens  and  another  hotel, 
rather  a  Sanatorium,  fitted  up  with  all  modern  appliances 
such  as  sun  rooms,  electric  apparatus  for  baths,  and  many 
other  devices  to  aid  the  semi-invalid  or  debilitated  to  recover 
his  strength.  In  the  season,  Chosica  is  served  with  three  daily 


THE  OEOYA  RAILWAY  93 

trains  each  way,  including  an  express  with,  parlor  car  in  one 
hour. 

Above  Chosica  the  scenery  becomes  wilder,  the  valley  nar- 
rower. The  fall  of  the  Eimae  is  so  rapid  as  not  only  to  compel 
many  curves  and  Vs  but  to  make  an  incursion  into  a  side 
valley  desirable.  Thus  the  road  goes  half  a  mile  up  the  Ver* 
rugas  Gorge  which  it  crosses  by  the  highest  bridge  on  the  road, 
225  feet,  with  a  length  of  575,  returning  on  the  other  side  to 
the  Eimae  at  a  considerably  greater  elevation.  Frequently 
the  floor  of  the  Eimae  Canon  has  room  only  for  the  rushing 
stream.  The  road  passes  high  up  on  the  slope,  or  through  one 
of  the  sixty-five  tunnels.  Many  times  the  river  is  crossed; 
sixty-seven  bridges  may  be  counted.  At  one  point  the  side 
walls  are  so  precipitous  that  it  was  necessary  to  lower  work- 
men, from  the  top  of  the  cliff  above.  Sitting  in  a  swing  they 
cut  footholds  in  the  rock  preparatory  to  the  beginning  of  the 
work.  Some  of  the  cliffs  are  more  than  a  third  of  a  mile  in 
perpendicular  height. 

Matucana.  Whenever  the  valley  broadens  out  there  is  a 
town,  as  at  the  breakfast  station,  Matucana,  which  at  an  alti- 
tude of  7788  feet  affords  a  meal  of  several  courses  at  the  price 
of  one  sol.  The  hotel  furnishes  comfortable  accommodations 
for  those  who  think  it  wiser  to  take  the  climb  in  instalments, 
or  for  any  with  archaeological  tastes  who  may  like  to  investigate 
some  ruins  a  few  miles  down  the  valley  oh  an  eminence  rising 
from  the  north  side  of  the  river.  The  excursion  may  be 
made  from  Matucana  in  a  long  day  on  horseback  with  a  good 
horse  and  guide,  even  on  foot  by  one  so  inclined.  The  remains 
are  of  especial  interest  on  account  of  a  theory  that  they  are 
relics  of  a  Pygmy  City ;  that  the  little  people  once  its  inhabit- 
ants were  expelled  by  ruthless  invaders  and  fled  over  the 
mountains  into  the  Amazon  basin.  Fortifications,  house  walls, 
and  subterranean  chambers  still  exist,  the  small  size  of  the 
rooms,  the  doorways  three  feet  high,  being  adduced  as  evidence 
in  favor  of  the  little  people.  Others  believe  the  ruins  are  those 
of  an  ordinary  ancient  fortress. 

Beyond  Matucana  the  scenery  becomes  still  grander.  The 
walls  above  sometimes  look  dangerous  with  overhanging  rocks, 
or  with  boulders  half  out  of  a  steep  earth  slope,  appearing  just 


S4  THE  SOUTH  AMEIUUAN  TO  US 

ready  to  roll  down.  Slides  occasionally  occur,  especially  in 
the  rainy  season,  but  accidents  are  rare ;  for  going  up  it  is  easy 
to  make  a  sudden  pause,  and  coming  down  a  hand-car  goes 
ahead  of  passenger  trains  to  make  sure  that  the  track  is  clear. 
Bridges  and  tunnels  are  the  order  of  the  day,  gorges  and  cliffs, 
at  last,  sMning  mountains.  The  Gorge  of  Infernillo  (Little 
Hell),  Hack  and  deep,  you  are  whisked  across  in  a  moment, 
and  from  one  tunnel  into  another.  Tamboraque,  the  first  small 
mining  town,  is  really  in  the  Sierra.  Rio  Blanco  and  Casa- 
palca  farther  on  are  important  smelting  centers,  the  last  above 
13,000  feet.  Long  before  this  it  has  grown  cold  and  wraps  are 
in  order,  furs  perchance  not  amiss,  good  woolen  underwear 
desirable.  Chicla,  a  considerable  place,  reached  before  Casa- 
palca,  is  notable  for  having  five  parallel  tracks  one  above 
another,  curves,  tunnels,  and  two  Vs  being  required  to  climb, 
by  three  miles  of  track,  500  feet  in  a  short  distance  up  the 
valley.  At  Ticlio  there  may  be  a  chance  for  tea.  One 
venturing  from  the  car  should  here  step  slowly  and  care- 
fully if  .he  would  avoid  a  slight  ringing  in  the  ears. 
One  not  feeling  perfectly  well  is  wiser  to  let  some  one 
else  bring  the  tea.  A  bottle  of  salts  of  ammonia  should 
be  at  hand  in  ease  of  headache  or  vertigo,  and  fresh  air 
may  be  desirable.  A  short  stop  is  made  just  before  entering 
the  G-alera  Tunnel,  4000  feet  long.  On  the  right  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  tunnel  is  a  rounded  brown  hill  top,  Monte 
Meiggs,  often  without  snow  though  17,575  feet  above  the  sea. 
This  altitude  is  confused  by  many  with  that  of  the  railroad, 
about  2000  feet  lower ;  for  which  the  manner  of  printing  the 
time-table  may  be  responsible.  East  of  the  continental  divide 
the  fine  snow  peaks  and  glaciers  are  in  striking  contrast  to 
the  bareness  in  the  dry  season  on  the  coast  side.  Beyond  the 
enow  mountains,  the  scenery  diminishes  in  grandeur  to  Oroya, 
12,050  feet,  where  the  train  is  now  due  about  3.30.  An  ob- 
servation car  is  greatly  to  be  desired  on  this  ride.  If  the 
conductor  can  be  persuaded  to  let  you  stand  on  the  rear  plat- 
form of  the  last  car,  this  on  a  regular^ train  is  the  best  position 
available.  An  open  freight  car  now- affords  the  finest  pos- 
sible outlook,  but  most  persons  will  prefer  a  more  comfortable 
seat  with  diminished  view.  From  the  station  Ticlio,  altitude 
15,665  feet,  the  highest  point  on  the  main  road,  there  is  a 


ON  THE  OROYA  RAILWAY 


CEERO  DE  PASOO  95 

short  branch,  line  to  the  mining  town  Moroeocha,  beautifully 
situated  among  lakes  and  glaciers,  this  branch  crossing  the 
divide  at  15,865  feet,  a  trifle  higher  than  Mont  Blanc,  and 
absolutely  the  highest  point  in  the  world  now  reached  by 
rail.  The  grandeur  of  the  varied  scenes  on  the  wonderful 
Oroya  Railway  baffles  all  description  and  must  be  seen  to  be 
realized  in  the  smallest  degree.  For  those  who  are  unable  to 
devote  the  two  days  necessary  to  enjoy  the  entire  trip,  it 
is  sometimes  possible  to  make  a  Sunday  excursion  part  way; 
up  the  valley  to  Rio  Blanco,  20  miles  above  Matucana,  re- 
turning the  same  afternoon;  much  better  than  nothing,  but 
with  a  loss  of  the  more  splendid  scenes  above.  At  Oroya 
there  are  two  hotels,  the  Junin  and  the  Ghrand,  with,  little  to 
choose  between  them.  No  luxuries  are  provided ;  a  fair  dinner, 
a  bed,  and  morning  coffee  are  supplied;  but  more  fortunate 
are  those  who  have  friends  at  court  and  are  entertained  by 
some  of  the  railway  officials.  At  Oroya  one  may  have  his 
first  sight  of  llamas,  the  ancient  burden  bearers  of  Peru, 
dignified,  graceful  animals,  when  moving*  with  their  ordinary 
slow  walk,  but  not  when  startled  into  a  run.  Be  cautious 
about  making  free  with  them,  as  if  they  resent  your  advances 
they  are  liable  to  spit  in  your  face,  though  they  do  not  look 
as  if  they  could  be  so  rude. 

Those  who  are  making  the  South  American  Tour  in  a 
leisurely  manner,  or  who  have  an  eye  to  business,  may  not 
pause  at  Oroya,  but  changing  cars  may  continue  north  the 
same  day  to  Cerro  de  Pasco,  or  after  a  night  in  Oroya  may 
pursue  the  railroad  journey  southward  to  Huancayo,  or  may 
on  horseback  go  over  another  mountain  range,  then  down, 
down,  to  Tarma,  La  Merced,  and  the  montana  country. 

Cerro  de  Pasco  is  reached  by  a  journey  of  about  90  miles 
over  a  generally  hilly  or  rolling  country,  with  few  higli  moun- 
tains visible  and  those  afar  off.  Lake  Junin  is  passed  be- 
fore dark,  a  resort  of  ducks  and  other  wild  fowl,  hence  a 
field  of  sport  for  those  fond  of  game.  Here,  be  it  remembered, 
was  the  next  to  the  last  battle  of  the  War  of  Independence; 
and  the  soldiers  in  those  days  did  not  come  up  in  cars  either. 
Indians  abound  at  the  stations  along  the  road,  Quichuas,  dif- 
fering little  from  their  ancestors  of  400  years  ago.  The  town 
of  Cerro  is  reached  about  9.30  p.  m.,  but  as  a  dining  car 


96  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUK 

is  attached  to  the  train  one  is  well  fed  at  a  seasonable  hour. 
The  best  if  not  the  only  hotel  in  the  place  is  the  Universo 
on  the  main  plaza  of  the  town,  to  which  the  stranger  will  need 
a  guide,  as  the  station  is  on  the  outskirts  of  the  old  city. 
The  hotel  is  not  much  to  boast  of,  but  the  night  I  spent  there 
was  perfectly  comfortable.  Again,  if  one  has  friends  at  court 
among  the  officials  of  the  Mining  Company  he  is  lucky,  but 
naturally  they  cannot  entertain  all  tourists.  The  place  is 
of  exceptional  interest  as  one  of  the  highest  mining  camps 
of  any  size,  and  the  highest  town  of  any  importance  in  the 
world.  There  are  at  least  8000  people  here  at  an  altitude 
of  about  14,300  feet.  The  Cerro  de  Pasco  Mining  Company, 
composed  of  half  a  dozen  or  more  well  known  American 
millionaires,  has  spent  it  is  said  towards  $30,000,000  in  the 
purchase  and  development  of  property  here  and  at  Morococha, 
in  building  the  railway  from  Oroya,  in  erecting  a  large  smelt- 
ing plant  nine  miles  from  Cerro  with  buildings  for  employees, 
on  coal  mines,  and  on  other  things  essential  to  a  great  property. 
In  earlier  days  these  mines  were  worked  for  silver,  but  now 
copper  is  the  chief  production.  Recently  an  average  of  400,- 
000  Ibs.  98  per  cent  pure  has  been  turned  out  from  the  smelter 
each  month.  The  privilege  of  visiting  the  mines  is  accorded 
to  few,  but  all  may  observe  the  great  open  pits  resembling 
quarries,  several  hundred  feet  deep,  where  the  surface,  under- 
mined years  ago  by  great  tunnels  and  chambers,  at  last 
caved  in.  The  titanic  forces  of  nature  by  some  mighty  effort 
here  cast  upward  a  wonderful  mass  of  minerals,  gold,  silver, 
copper,  etc.,  not  in  veins,  but  in  chunks.  This  has  been 
called  the  richest  copper  deposit  in  the  world,  but  others  dis- 
pute the  claim.  Vanadium  is  one  of  the  various  minerals 
found  not  far  away.  The  town  with  its  many  Indians,  Peru- 
vians, and  Americans  is  a  curious  place  on  this  great 
plateau  from  50  to  100  miles  wide,  a  plateau  diversified  by 
hills,  fringed  by  distant  mountains,  and  cut  by  occasional 
canons,  from  which  fruit  and  vegetables  are  brought  for  the 
sustenance  of  the  dwellers  above.  It  is  possible  to  go  on  by 
train  from  Cerro  to  Goyllarisquisga,  26  miles  farther,  on  the 
edge  of  a  canon  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  great  moun- 
tain, La  Viuda,  believed  by  some  to  exceed  Aconcagua  in 
height.  A  concession  has  recently  been  granted  by  the  Peru- 


PLAZA,   CERRO  DE  PASCO 


NEAR   THE    SOURCE   OF   THE  AMAZON"    (MARANON) 


TO  THE  AMAZON  BASIN  97 

vian  Government  to  Mr.  Alfred  McCune,  now  transferred  to 
the  Amazon  Pacific  Co.,  to  build  a  railroad  from  Goyllaris- 
quisga,  down  to  Puca  Alpa  on  the  Ucayali  Elver,  a  point  four 
days  from  Iquitos.  Operations  have  commenced.  An  im- 
mense amount  of  rich  territory  will  be  opened  up  by  this 
road,  fine  grazing  and  agricultural  lands,  and  rubber  country 
below.  Ultimately  the  town  Goyllarisquisga  will  be  connected 
by  rail  with  Eecuay,  the  entire  line  from  Oroya  forming  a 
link  in  the  Pan  American  railroad.  Prom  Cerro  or  the 
Smelter,  a  three  days'  horseback  ride  would  bring  one  to  Lake 
Santa  Ana,  the  source  of  the  Maranon  or  Amazon.  A  mile  or 
two  below  the  Smelter  is  a  valuable  silver  mine  and  smelter 
in  operation,  property  of  Senor  Fernandini. 

Huancayo.  The  trip  from  Oroya  south  to  Huaneayo  is 
through  a  valley  of  somewhat  lower  elevation,  hence  of  more 
cheerful  character.  The  town  of  Jauja  on  this  line  is  con- 
sidered an  excellent  place  for  consumptives,  for  whom  the 
coast  is  much  too  damp.  Huancayo,  78  miles  from  Oroya, 
is  now  the  terminus,  but  work  has  been  pushed  for  20  miles 
farther  and  ere  long  Ayacucho  will  be  reached,  the  scene 
of  the  final  battle,  compelling  the  withdrawal  of  the  Spaniards. 

Tarma.  The  expedition  to  Tarma  and  the  montana  may 
attract  a  few  who  can  spare  a  week  or  ten  days  for  this 
delightful  trip.  Animals  to  Tarma  may  be  obtained  at  Oroya 
for  5  or  6  soles  each.  With  saddle-bags,  no  baggage  animals 
are  needed.  It  is  well  to  set  out  from  Oroya  by  9  a.  m., 
in  order  to  pass  over  the  cumbre  before  the  afternoon  breeze 
begins  to  blow  and  to  arrive  in  good  season  at  Tarma,  a 
pretty  town  at  an  altitude  of  about  10,000  feet.  There  are 
two  hotels  where  lodging  may  be  had  at  modest  prices,  and 
at  the  Umberto  horses  may  be  engaged  for  the  ride  to  La 
Merced.  Luncheon  must  be  taken  from  Oroya,  but  beyond 
Tarma  there  are  places  on  the  road  where  it  may  be  procured. 
On  the  cumbre  2000  feet  above  Oroya,  all  is  brown  and  bare, 
but  at  the  farther  edge  of  the  broad  pass  there  is  a  fine  view 
of  distant  mountains  and  valleys.  Not  far  down,  green  will 
appear,  presently  a  house  or  two,  a  pretty  stream,  a  few 
calla  lilies.  From  Tarma  onward  there  are  plenty  of  trees, 
growing  as  it  were  of  their  own  accord,  a  pleasing  change 
from  the  plateau  and  the  western  side.  The  next  day; 


98  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUE 

luncheon  is  at  Palca,  and  before  night  one  should  reach 
Huacapistana,  40  km,  a  delightful  spot.  The  third  day  one 
has  luncheon  at  San  Eamon  and  spends  the  night  at  La 
Merced,  35  fans.,  which  with  an  altitude  of  less  than  3000  feet 
is  really  in  the  tropical  country.  The  delights  of  this  journey, 
the  beautiful  canon  lined  with  verdure,  is  a  contrast  indeed  to 
the  bare  sublimity  of  the  other  side.  The  road  is  excellent 
except  in  one  place  between  Oroya  and  Tarma.  There  are 
romantic  tunnels,  fine  suspension  bridges,  swinging,  but  that 
does  no  harm  and  may  afford  a  novel  experience.  This  road 
is  now  the  highway  from  Lima  to  the  Atlantic  by  way  of 
Iquitos,  and  at  the  moment  it  is  probably  the  most  com- 
fortable route  to  cross  the  center  of  the  continent.  With  good 
luck  the  journey  from  Lima  to  Iquitos  may  be  made  in  16 
days,  nine  of  these  on  horseback  from  Oroya  to  Puerto 
Jessup,  one  day  by  canoe  to  Puerto  Bermudez,  thence  in  five 
or  six  daya  by  steam  launch  to  Iquitos.  At  this  city  of  15,- 
000  people  a  larger  boat  may  be  taken  for  Para  or  New  York, 
But  that  is  another  story.  By  way  of  Cerro  de  Pasco  and 
Huanuco,  the  journey  from  Lima  to  Iquitos  is  ten  days.  A 
few  hours  beyond  La  Merced  is  the  Perene  coffee  plantation 
belonging  to  the  Peruvian  Corporation.  In  this  section  land 
is  cheap,  and  with  the  mercury  always  in  the  eighties,  one  so 
inclined  may  be  happy,  leading  the  simple  life.  The  Indians 
about  here  are  fine  looking,  whiter  than  many  of  the  Spanish, 
and  are  quiet,  peaceful  people;  though  others  beyond  are  so 
fierce  that  it  is  unsafe  to  pass  through  their  territory.  Hav- 
ing been  ill-treated  by  white  rubber  gatherers  and  some  other 
so-called  civilized  men,  they  allow  no  whites  among  them. 


CHAPTER  XI 
THE  SOUTHERN  RAILWAY— AREQTJIPA 

the  charm  of  the  Rimae  Valley  and  the  City  of  the 
Kings  it  is  difficult  to  escape,  but  on  a  four  months'  tour 
not  more  than  ten  days  can  be  spared  for  this  region,  fourteen 
at  the  outside.  To  Mollendo,  the  next  place  of  debarkation, 
the  voyage  may  be  pursued  by  any  one  of  the  three  lines  of 
steamers  previously  mentioned.  If  a  through  ticket  to  this 
port  or  to  Valparaiso  has  not  been  purchased,  one  may  elect 
to  go  on  one  of  the  Kosmos  boats,  a  very  comfortable  German 
Line  which  in  1911  afforded  an  especial  advantage  to  tourists 
with  heavy  baggage,  going  up  to  Bolivia.  These  boats  lie  over 
two  weeks  at  Antof agasta,  taking  on  freight  at  near-by  ports ; 
so  that  leaving  one's  heavy  baggage  on  board,  one  may  make 
the  trip  from  Mollendo  to  Arequipa,  Cuzco,  and  La  Paz,  re- 
joining the  same  ship  at  Antofagasta  two  weeks  and  three 
days  from  the  time  of  going  ashore  at  Mollendo.  Persons 
patronizing  any  of  the  three  lines  from  Panama,  may  by 
especial  arrangement  with  the  purser  have  their  baggage 
checked  through  to  Valparaiso,  to  reclaim  it  at  the  Custom 
House  there  when  they  arrive. 

The  express  steamers  south  from  Callao  arrive  at  Mol- 
lendo on  the  second  morning  after  sailing.  As  the  daily 
train  for  Arequipa  leaves  at  1.30  p.  m.  there  is  ample  time 
to  disembark,  have  the  baggage  examined,  take  breakfast, 
almuerzo,  price  one  sol,  at  the  Hotel  Ferrocarril  just  above  the 
railway  station,  and  perhaps  look  about  a  little  before  going 
aboard  the  train.  A  through  ticket,  price  40  soles,  to  La  Paz 
should  be  purchased,  as  this  saves  considerable  bother,  permits 
stopping  on:  at  Arequipa,  and  for  the  trip  to  Cuzco  at  Juliaca, 
and  saves  a  trifle  over  the  local  tickets.  All  hand  baggage 
may  be  taken  into  the  car  without  charge,  but  there  is  a  heavy 
tariff  on  trunks  or  anything  that  is  checked,  so  much  so  that 
two  heavy  trunks  will  approximate  the  cost  of  one  ticket. 

99 


100  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Most  persons  will  be  able  to  manage  with  hand  luggage  only, 
not  forgetting,  however,  that  wraps  and  warm  clothing  will 
be  needed  on  the  plateau  above. 

Mollendo  is  a  busy  port,  in  Peru  second  to  Callao  in  com- 
merce, though  far  behind  in  other  ways.  It  has  really  no 
harbor  at  all,  in  spite  of  a  small  breakwater  recently  built ; 
the  rollers  and  surf  often  look  a  bit  awesome  and  the  barrel 
is  frequently  called  into  requisition.  Rarely  the  sea  is  so 
rough  that  passengers  are  carried  on  to  the  next  port,  whence 
they  may  return  at  their  own  expense.  Seven  or  eight  miles 
north  is  an  excellent  quiet  haven,  among  the  best  on  the 
Pacific,  Matarani,  to  which  there  is  much  talk  of  transferring 
the  port,  especially  since  most  of  the  business  portion  of  Mol- 
lendo was  destroyed  by  fire,  April  2,  1912.  From  the 
Matarani  Bay  the  railroad  journey  would  be  nearly  twenty 
miles  shorter  and  the  ascent  to  the  top  of  the  bluffs  would 
have  a  one  per  cent  lower  grade.  It  is  hoped  that  the  trans- 
fer will  not  long  be  delayed. 

The  tariff  for  disembarking  at  Mollendo  is  higher  than  at 
other  ports,  four-oared  boats  being  generally  used.  For  one 
passenger  it  is  S.I ;  if  there  are  more  than  three  in  one  boat, 
60  ctvs.  each:  children  under  twelve,  30  ctvs.  Parcels  of 
ordinary  size  or  small  trunks  are  50  ctvs,  each  to  the  mole, 
and  as  much  more  to  the  station:  large  trunks  70  ctvs.  and  60 
more  to  station.  With  much  baggage  for  several  passengers 
a  bargain  for  the  whole  may  be  made.  The  boatmen  are  liable 
to  ask  double  what  it  is  worth  or  what  they  are  willing  to  ac- 
cept. Peruvians  generally  pay  one-half  or  one-third  as  much 
as  strangers. 

Mollendo  is  not  an  attractive  place,  between  May  and 
November  subject  to  a  fine  mist  or  drizzle,  and  having  little 
sunshine.  It  is,  nevertheless,  a  health  resort,  but  the  most 
melancholy  one  it  was  ever  my  lot  to  visit.  Yet  many  persons 
are  benefited  by  coming  from  the  greater  altitudes  of  Arequipa 
and  La  Paz,  even  though  the  place  be  damp  and  cheerless. 
With  an  hour  to  spare  one  may  stroll  around  the  town  or 
along  the  beach  where  the  waves  are  rolling  in  from  Australia 
or  other  remote  region,  or  may  climb  the  rocky  promontory 
to  watch  the  high  breaking  surf. 


THE  SOUTHERN  RAILWAY  101 

After  leaving  the  station  the  train  for  several  miles  hugs 
the  sandy  shore,  then  turning  away  soon  begins  to  climb  the 
bluff,  here  about  3000  feet  high.  The  face  is  irregular  with 
steep  slopes  cut  by  many  canons.  The  road  winds  along 
up  one  of  these,  then  on  the  face  of  a  projecting  slope,  the 
car  having  first  one  side  toward  the  sea,  then  the  other,  and 
heading  in  turn  towards  all  points  of  the  compass.  At  Tambo 
Station  about  1000  feet  up,  there  is  a  pretty  view  down  into 
the  Tambo  Valley,  its  level  floor  green  with  sugar-cane  and 
other  agricultural  products.  "Women  from  below  stand  by 
the  car  windows  with  fruit  and  other  edibles  to  sell.  The 
ever  changing  prospect  is  a  continual  source  of  pleasure, 
especially  near  the  close  of  the  wet  season,  when  the  upper 
half  of  the  slopes  is  quite  green,  mostly  with  bushes  of 
heliotrope  all  in  blossom.  At  other  times  there  is  only  sand, 
not  a  particle  of  verdure,  but  many  black  sticks,  some  day  to 
be  rejuvenated  into  glowing  life.  It  is  a  long  and  devious 
way  to  the  edge  of  the  plateau,  where  a  sudden  change  is 
experienced.  The  green  if  any  is  left  behind,  a  sandy  desert 
is  before,  though  the  dampness,  in  the  winter,  continues.  The 
gradual  change  from  the  gray  mist  to  the  bright  desert  sun- 
shine if  observed  is  most  interesting,  and  then  to  look  back- 
ward upon  the  gray  cloud  from  which  you  have  emerged. 
Here,  perhaps,  you  have  your  first  view  of  an  absolute  desert ; 
no  wells  are  useful,  and  for  the  stations  along  the  track, 
even  for  Mollendo  itself,  water  is  piped  down  from  near 
Arequipa,  100  miles  distant.  The  plateau  is  covered  with 
deep  yellow  sand  and  scattering  stones,  some  as  black  as  coal. 
Here  is  the  desert  you  have  dreamed  of:  no  sage-brush,  no 
blade  of  grass  relieves  the  burning  sand.  Not  that  the  sand 
burns  here,  but  in  some  sections  it  is  hot  indeed.  The  monot- 
ony is  relieved  by  graceful  gray  sand  dunes  from  three  to 
twenty  feet  high,  crescent-shaped,  moving  slowly  along  at  the 
rate  of  sixty  feet  a  year.  In  the  distance  are  variegated 
hills,  gray,  red,  yellow,  brown,  and  white,  and  the  great  moun- 
tains, El  Misti  and  Chachani,  with  snow  caps  varying  in 
dimensions  according  to  the  time  of  the  year  and  the  charac- 
ter of  the  season,  Pichu-Piehu,  a  long  range  slightly  lower. 
Some  of  the  stations  have  a  glint  of  green,  a  small  oasis  in 


102  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUE 

the  desert,  others  not  a  sign  of  verdure.  Vitor  is  quite  a 
little  place  with  a  hotel  kept  by  an  ancient  Belgian,  a  neat,  com- 
fortable little  establishment,  used  as  a  health,  resort  for  persons 
with  weak  hearts,  for  whom  Arequipa  is  too  high  or  Mol- 
lendo  too  damp.  It  is  a  starting  point  for  those  who  would 
ride  across  the  desert  to  the  Vitor  Canon  close  by,  the  Sihuas 
Canon  beyond,  and  the  Majes  Valley  still  more  remote,  at  the 
head  of  which  Mt.  Coropuna,  21,000  feet,  is  situated ;  ascended 
for  the  first  time,  July  16,  1911,  by  Miss  Annie  S.  Peck  and 
party.  A  railway  is  soon  to  be  constructed  between  Vitor 
and  the  Majes  Valley,  which  will  open  for  increased  traffic 
a  fine  agricultural  and  mineral  section,  the  products  of  which 
are  now  brought  by  trains  of  burros  across  the  desert.  A 
little  above  Vitor  the  train  enters  the  hills  and  presently 
passes  along  the  edge  of  the  fine  Vitor  Canon,  the  floor  of 
which  is  500  or  1000  feet  below.  Trains  of  llamas  may  be 
seen,  ancient  ruins,  a  suburban  town,  Tingo,  then  if  darkness 
has  not  fallen  comes  an  enchanting  view  of  Arequipa  on  the 
verdant  slope  of  the  great  volcano  El  Misti,  with  Chachani 
and  Pichu-Pichu  also  in  the  background. 

AREQTJTPA 

HOTELS.  Morosini  Parodi,  Grand  Hotel  Central,  Royal  Hotel, 
Hotel  Europe. 

At  the  bustling  railway  station,  at  the  car  windows, 
if  not  within,  boys  and  men  will  appear  who  wish  to 
seize  your  baggage  and  carry  it  to  the  trams.  Hotel  runners 
perhaps  have  previously  entered  the  car.  Behind  the  sta- 
tion a  long  row  of  tram  cars  drawn  by  little  mules  was 
formerly  found,  already  probably  superseded  by  the  promised 
electrics.  Before  taking  a  car  decision  should  be  made  as 
to  what  hotel  will  be  patronized.  The  Morosini  Parodi  is 
by  many  called  the  best,  but  I  was  never  so  fortunate  as  to 
find  there  a  vacant  room.  Their  table  is  particularly  com- 
mended ;  the  main  building  containing  the  restaurant  Venezia 
is  on  the  west  side  of  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  and  there  are  sev- 
eral annexes.  The  Grand  Hotel  Central  and  the  Koyal  Hotel, 
the  first  on  the  left,  the  second  on  the  right  of  the  calle 
Mereaderes  a  block  or  two  from  the  Cathedral  and  Plaza  are 


ON  THE    SOUTHERN  RAILWAY  OP  PERU 


RELIGIOUS  PROCESSION,  EL  MISTI  AT  THE  RIGHT 


AREQUIPA  103 

both  fairly  comfortable  with  perhaps  a  slight  preference  for 
the  former,  where  electric  lights  and  bells  are  in  service  and 
hot  and  cold  baths  announced,  which  does  not  mean  private 
baths  en  suite.  None  of  those  will  be  found,  so  far  as  I 
am  aware,  after  leaving  the  Maury  until  you  arrive  at  Buenos 
Aires.  From  some  of  the  upper  rooms  of  the  Central  a 
fine  view  of  Misti  may  be  enjoyed.  The  prices  at  all  three 
hotels  range  from  four  to  six  soles  per  day,  according  to 
room  and  bargaining  ability.  This  includes  everything  but 
bath,  which  is  with  difficulty  had  at  all.  Hotel  Europe,  67 
Mereaderes,  serves  coffee  and  supper  only.  A  block  or  two 
from  the  station  is  a  clean  and  respectable  hotel  of  lower  price, 
convenient  for  one  leaving  by  the  early  morning  train;  but 
for  the  few  days  desirable  here,  one  of  the  hotels  in  the  center 
of  the  city  about  a  mile  from  the  station  is  to  be  preferred. 

Arequipa,  at  an  altitude  of  7549  feet  (we  are  still  within 
the  tropics),  has  by  day  a  climate  of  perennial  June,  by  night 
one  of  October  or  November.  The  evening  air  in  winter  is 
chilly  enough  to  make  many  men,  even  natives,  wear  a  light 
overcoat  and  some  ladies,  furs;  at  the  same  time  others  appear 
on  the  street  in  thin  summer  clothing.  The  city,  the  second 
in  Peru  in  size  and  in  commercial  importance,  has  a  popula- 
tion of  about  40,000.  It  was  founded  in  1540  by  the  Span- 
iards, though  there  was  a  pre-existing  Indian  settlement,  a 
natural  location  on  account  of  an  ample  water  supply  from 
the  river  Chili.  A  garden  has  been  made  here  in  the  midst 
of  the  desert,  in  a  spot  sheltered  from  winds  by  the  moun- 
tains, enjoying  a  delightful  climate,  and  a  very  beautiful  pros- 
pect. 

Sight-seeing  begins  with  the  principal  plaza  which  has  the 
Cathedral  on  one  side,  and  on  the  other  three  the  finest  stone 
portales  in  South  America.  Behind  these  are  many  of  the 
principal  shops,  dry  goods,  confectioners7,  etc.  The  Cathedral 
is  a  fine  structure,  with  an  interior  more  imposing  than  the 
outside  view.  Begun  in  1612,  it  was  constructed  with  great 
elaboration  and  contained  many  costly  treasures.  These  with 
the  interior  were  largely  destroyed  by  fire  in  1844.  The  re- 
building which  consumed  twenty  years  was  hardly  over  when 
the  great  earthquake  of  1868  occurred.  Fortunately  the  work 
was  too  substantial  to  be  overthrown.  Splendid  columns  sup- 


104  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

port  the  great  arches  of  the  three  naves,  producing  an  effect 
unusually  noble  and  impressive.  From  the  lower  side  of 
the  Plaza,  in  the  wonderfully  clear  atmosphere,  the  beautiful 
cone-shaped  Misti  presents  an  admirable  picture  with  Cha- 
chani  a  trifle  higher  on  the  left  and  Kchu-Pichu  a  little  lower 
on  the  right,  in  the  moonlight  a  scene  of  rare  loveliness. 

Other  noteworthy  churches  are  those  of  Santo  Domingo,  and 
the  Jesuits',  the  latter,  La  Compmia,  near  a  lower  corner  of 
the  Plaza,  having  a  noticeable  carved  stone  fagade  and,  an 
uncommon  feature,  an  altar  in  the  open  air.  The  people 
are  noted  for  their  culture  and  for  their  devotion  to  the 
church,  the  city  having  the  reputation  of  being  the  most 
bigoted  in  South  America,  a  reputation  shared  by  several 
others.  There  is  no  objection  to  one's  practicing  Ms  own  re- 
ligion in  an  inconspicuous  manner,  but  there  has  been  serious 
opposition  to  proselyting.  Nevertheless,  the  Evangelical 
Mission  of  England  is  now  carrying  on  a  work,  especially 
among  the  Indians,  in  which  personal  hygiene  and  sanitary 
modes  of  life  are  taught  in  connection  with  moral  and  re- 
ligious instruction,  with  less  friction  on  the  part  of  the  higher 
classes  than  formerly. 

The  fine  new  Public  Market  occupying  a  whole  square, 
about  two  and  a  half  acres,  deserves  a  visit.  The  building 
which  cost  $280,000  is  of  a  pink  and  white  volcanic  stone 
locally  called  sillar,  with  a  roof  of  corrugated  iron  arranged 
to  give  good  ventilation.  At  the  four  corners  are  four  build- 
ings, one  a  hotel  and  restaurant,  the  other  three  for  storage 
of  surplus  stocks  of  fish,  meat,  and  vegetables. 

Some  tourists  may  like  to  visit  the  splendid  new  hospital 
of  Arequipa,  called  the  finest  of  its  kind  in  South  America, 
named  after  the  Goyeneche  family,  Arequipanians  now  resi- 
dent in  Paris,  who  have  devoted  the  sum  of  $625,000  to  the 
buildings  and  their  equipment.  The  grounds  embrace  about 
eight  acres  of  gently  sloping  land,  with  the  main  entrance  at 
the  head  of  a  broad  avenue.  In  front  of  the  gate  is  a  beautiful 
Gothic  chapel,  with  Gothic  administration  buildings  at  each 
side  of  the  entrance.  Beyond  the  chapel  are  the  wards,  the 
men's  on  the  left  including  a  military  section;  the  women's 
on  the  right,  together  with  the  residence  for  the  nurses,  who 
are  Sisters  of  Charity.  There  are  especial  apartments  for 


AEEQUIPA  105 

paying  patients,  with  and  without  baths.  Also  there  is  a 
hydro-therapic  building  equipped  for  every  sort  of  bath, 
available  for  use  by  outsiders:  operating  rooms,  kitchen, 
laundry,  morgue,  disinfecting  stoves,  electric  lights,  and  ample 
water  supply.  All  the  buildings  are  of  stone,  well  ventilated, 
and  a  fine  clock  adorns  a  tower.  The  hospital  was  inaugurated 
January  20,  1912. 

The  Garden  of  Senor  Leopoldo  Lucioni  is  a  picturesque 
spot  to  be  visited  by  every  stranger.  Vine-covered  walls,  ar- 
bors of  grapes,  heavily  laden  fruit  trees,  an  avenue  of  fine 
cedars,  flower-bordered  walks,  roses,  and  carnations  adorn  the 
place;  almost  every  variety  of  fruit  and  vegetable  seems  to 
grow  in  this  delightful  climate,  and  plants,  seeds,  and  cut- 
tings are  yearly  sent  by  the  owner  to  European,  and  to  other 
South  American  cities.  Planted  by  the  owner  26  years  ago, 
it  is  now  one  of  the  attractions  and  benefactions  of  Arequipa. 

Near  the  city,  about  two  miles  from  the  center,  is  a  spot 
which  is  a  strong  reminder  of  home,  the  name  Harvard  being 
familiar  to  every  American.  This  is  the  Observatory,  one 
of  the  most  important  and  best  equipped  in  South  America, 
established  here  in  1891  after  considerable  study  of  various 
locations  along  the  West  Coast  in  search  of  a  site  both  fairly 
accessible  and  favored  with  clear  skies.  In  addition  to  vari- 
ous other  instruments  there  is  a  24-inch  Bruce  photographic 
doublet,  the  largest  and  most  powerful  of  the  kind  in  the 
world,  and  a  13-inch  Boyden  telescope,  which  may  be  used  for 
either  visual  or  photographic  work.  More  than  100,000  photo- 
graphs of  the  Southern  Heavens  here  made  are  now  in  the 
Harvard  Observatory  at  Cambridge,  many  new  stars  have 
been  discovered  and  magnitudes  determined.  Meteorological 
observations  are  taken  twice  daily,  and  were  made  for  some 
years  in  other  places,  the  most  notable,  on  the  summit  of 
El  Misti,  19,200  feet,  the  greatest  altitude  where  a  long 
series  of  observations  has  ever  been  recorded.  The  dwelling 
of  the  Director  is  a  very  homelike  structure,  from  the 
veranda  of  which  there  is  a  beautiful  view  of  Misti  close 
at  hand,  of  Chachani  a  little  more  distant,  and  over  the  city  of 
Arequipa  and  the  great  desert  beyond.  Visitors  are  welcome 
in  the  afternoon,  but  the  evenings  are  devoted  to  work. 

Six  miles  beyond  the  Observatory,  following  the  Chili  river, 


106  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

is  the  Power  Station  of  the  Electric  Society  of  Lima,  a  pleasant 
ride;  but  in  the  plant,  only  the  specialist  would  have  great 
interest. 

Ascent  of  Misti,  19,200  feet.  A  unique  possibility  which 
may  appeal  to  a  few,  to  those  who  say  that  they  like  to  climb 
mountains  as  far  as  they  can  ride,  is  presented  by  the  beauti- 
ful Misti.  For,  years  ago,  when  observations  were  to  be  made 
on  the  summit,  a  road  was  constructed,  i.  e.,  a  narrow  bridle 
path,  to  the  very  top  of  the  mountain,  and  a  stone  hut  was 
erected  at  about  the  altitude  of  the  summit  of  Mont  Blanc, 
where  the  observers  might  pass  the  night  on  the  way.  While 
it  may  not  look  very  distant,  the  top  of  the  mountain  is  11 
miles  in  a  straight  line  from  the  Harvard  Observatory,  and 
39  miles  around  by  the  road,  which  from  there  makes  the 
complete  circuit  of  the  mountain  before  reaching  the  top. 
One  desirous  of  making  the  trip  should  consult  the  Director 
of  the  Observatory,  which  may  be  done  by  telephone,  to  know 
if  Francisco  is  available  as  guide  and  if  he  can  provide  mules. 
Having  made  the  ascent  more  than  100  times  Francisco  may 
be  relied  upon.  He  may  charge  S.8  for  each  animal  and  as 
much  more  for  himself,  or  he  may  have  doubled  his  prices 
within  the  last  ten  years.  He  may  indeed  be  dead,  in  which 
case  probably  there  is  another  who  may  serve.  Setting  out 
by  eight  o'clock,  with  plenty  of  wraps  and  provisions,  one 
will  not  be  likely  to  arrive  at  the  M.  B.  hut  much  before  dark. 
The  way  goes  to  the  right  of  the  mountain  up  to  the  Plateau 
of  the  Bones,  13,300  feet,  between  Misti  and  Pichu-Piehu, 
where  passed  the  ancient  highway  to  Cuzco  and  Bolivia;  then 
it  turns  directly  towards  the  summit,  to  the  M.  B.  hut  at  an 
altitude  of  15,700  feet.  One  sleeps  on  the  floor  if  at  all. 
Some  persons  are  here  so  affected  with  headache,  fever,  and 
nausea,  the  usual  symtoms  of  soroche,  mountain  sickness,  that 
they  are  unable  to  proceed.  But  if  not  too  badly  off,  one  with 
good  grit  is  likely  to  feel  better  by  day,  and  in  the  fresh  morn- 
ing air  may  pursue  the  journey.  Some  persons  suffer  no  in- 
convenience whatever.  One  should  set  out  for  the  summit 
by  daylight,  as  the  ascent  requires  four  hours  or  more  and  it 
is  a  long  way  down  to  the  city.  From  the  summit  there  is  a 
splendid  prospect  of  mountains  near  and  remote,  of  the  beauti- 
ful city  and  green  valley  just  below,  and  of  the  desert  stretch- 


AREQUIPA  107 

ing  away  to  the  ocean,  which,  alas!  however  clear  the  sur- 
rounding atmosphere,  is  likely  to  be  hidden  from  view  by  the 
almost  perpetual  cloud  of  mist  which  overhangs  the  shore. 
Still  more  striking  is  the  view  of  the  great  crater  at  one's  feet, 
a  gulf  half  a  mile  in  diameter  and  800  feet  deep,  enclosed  by 
almost  vertical  walls.  In  1903  a  lower  cross  wall  separated 
the  old  from  the  new  crater  and  it  was  possible  at  one  point 
to  the  right  to  descend  to  the  bottom  of  the  former,  climb  up 
the  cross  wall  and  look  down  into  the  new  crater,  which  was 
smoking  slightly ;  then  to  continue  along  this  wall  to  the  edge 
of  the  crater  above  the  M.  B.  hut,  and  to  slip  and  slide  down 
thither.  Some  changes  have  occurred  in  the  crater  since 
then  and  doubtless  most  persons  will  be  satisfied  with  reach- 
ing the  summit.  Nowhere  else  in  the  world  can  so  great 
an  altitude  be  so  easily  attained:  Misti  is  5000  feet  higher 
than  Pike's  Peak  and  surpasses  every  mountain  in  North 
America  save  Mt.  McKinley,  possibly  Mt.  Logan.  If  the  season 
has  been  unusually  stormy  and  the  mountain  has  a  consider- 
able covering  of  snow,  the  ascent  on  mulebaek  might  be  im- 
practicable. In  1903  there  was  but  a  small  patch  of  snow 
on  one  side  and  not  the  slightest  difficulty.  The  reason  for 
the  lack  of  snow  at  this  altitude,  when  it  is  found  on  other 
mountains  in  Peru  much  lower  down,  is  the  slight  precipita- 
tion which  here  occurs,  varying  with  the  year  but  always  less 
than  on  most  other  mountains.  No  real  eruption  from  this 
volcano  has  occurred  since  the  Spaniards  in  1549  founded  the 
city,  but  El  Misti  is  somehow  held  in  a  measure  responsible 
for  the  earthquakes  which  from  time  to  time  have  devastated 
the  city,  and  the  affectionate  admiration  with  which  the 
mountain  is  regarded  is  not  unmixed  with  awe.  Hence  the 
two  crosses  which  have  been  erected  on  the  summit,  standing 
near  the  little  shelters  for  the  Observatory  instruments.  Those 
of  a  self -registering  character  here  placed  were  for  a  year  or 
two  read  by  an  observer,  not  always  the  same  person,  who 
came  up  every  two  weeks.  The  effects  of  the  severe  earth- 
quake of  1868  are  still  visible  in  the  city.  Slight  shocks  are 
common.  For  this  reason  dwellings  of  a  single  story  are  gen- 
erally preferred,  and  few  buildings  have  more  than  two. 

Not  far  from  Arequipa,  as  is  natural  in  a  volcanic  region, 
are  springs  of  great  reputation.    One  situated  about  a  league 


108  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOOK 

from  the  city  produces  an  excellent  table  water,  called  the 
Agua  de  Jesus  or  de  Misti,  highly  recommended  for  general 
use,  good  also  for  several  ailments.  It  is  a  pleasant  ride 
with  a  fine  prospect  all  along  the  way,  and  with  opportunity 
at  the  end  for  a  bath  in  a  clear,  effervescent  pool,  where  the 
water,  charged  with  carbonic  acid  gas,  rising  from  the  gravel 
floor,  seems  to  have  a  highly  exhilarating  effect. 

In  the  opposite  direction,  15  miles  from  Arequipa  near  the 
railway  leading  to  Puno,  are  the  Baths  of  Yura,  a  watering 
place  of  growing  fame,  with  baths  of  sulphur  and  of  iron. 
These  may  be  enjoyed  free  of  charge,  as  the  Government  has 
erected  suitable  buildings  over  the  various  springs;  though 
in  order  to  profit  by  them,  unless  camping  out,  one  must  pay 
a  moderate  board  at  one  of  the  neighboring  hotels.  The  Gran 
Hotel  de  las  Termas,  in  a  pretty  garden,  supplies  comfortable 
quarters  axtd  food  (bathing  suits,  etc.),  at  S.  2.50  a  day.  The 
waters  are  said  to  cure  stomach  troubles,  skin  diseases,  rheu- 
matism, etc. 


CHAPTEE  XII 
THE  SOUTHERN  RAILWAY— CTJZCO 

A  TBI-WEEKL.Y  train  is  now  scheduled  from  Arequipa  up  over 
the  mountains,  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday ;  the  Wednes- 
day only  connects  with  an  express  to  Cuzco.  These  trains, 
are  provided  with  buffet  chair  ears,  which  make  the  long 
journey  less  wearisome.  Persons  who  have  suffered  slight 
inconvenience  on  the  trip  to  Oroya  need  not  fear  a  repetition 
of  unpleasant  symptoms  on  this  journey,  the  stay  of  a  few 
days  at  Arequipa  making  the  change  in  atmospheric  pressure 
more  gradual ;  also  a  second  experience  is  generally  less  trying, 
and  the  top  of  the  southern  pass,  14,666  feet,  is  1000  feet 
lower  than  that  on  the  Central  Railroad. 

The  scenery  between  Arequipa  and  Juliaca  presents  far  less 
of  grandeur  than  is  witnessed  on  the  Oroya  road,  though  for 
a  time  it  should  keep  the  attention.  The  white  city  with  the 
deep  green  of  the  Chili  Yalley,  and  graceful  Misti  with  its 
more  rugged  sisters  on  either  hand,  for  a  half  hour  form  a 
delightful  picture,  as  the  track  winds  along  down,  and  later 
begins  to  climb  around  the  other  end  of  Chaehani.  The  dry 
and  channeled  slopes  of  this  mountain,  the  desert  of  volcanic 
sand  and  lava  rock  for  a  while  may  interest,  but  there  is  a 
good  deal  of  sameness  to  the  view,  somewhat  enlivened  by  two 
distant  splendid  snowclad  massifs,  Amfato  and  Coropuna. 

The  Baths  of  Yura,  an  hour  from  Arequipa,  are  invisible 
from  its  station :  a  glimpse  of  the  green  canon  may  be  had  later. 
Presently  Chaehani  and  Misti  are  seen  from  the  rear,  appear- 
ing considerably  lower  from  the  increased  elevation.  On  the 
Pampa  de  Arrieros,  a  bleak,  grass-covered  plateau,  the  high- 
est point  of  the  divide  is  passed  at  Crucero  Alto.  Beyond 
is  the  breakfast  station,  Lagunillas,  near  which  among  the 
graceful  rounded  hills  are  two  romantic  lakes,  Saracocha,  and 
Cachipascana,  one  on  each  side  of  the  track.  In  spite  of 


110  THE  SOUTH  AMEKICAN  TOUE 

these  and  the  lines  of  beauty  in  the  contour  of  the  hills,  the 
plateau  is  rather  dreary:  to  live  happily  at  any  of  these 
stations,  one  must  needs  be  a  true  lover  of  solitude.  "With 
good  fortune  one  may  descry  in  the  distance  a  few  vicunas, 
cousin  to  the  llama,  but  with  much  finer  wool,  often  called  fur, 
of  a  tawny  shade,  as  light  in  weight  as  chinchilla ;  perhaps  a 
drove  of  the  almost  equally  rare  alpacas;  the  former  in  a  wild 
state,  the  latter  under  care  and  cultivation. 

Juliaca,  the  junction,  is  a  busy  place,  always  thronged  with 
Indians  and  a  scattering  of  white  people.  From  here  to  Puno 
the  train  is  generally  crowded;  but  if  on  the  way  to  Cuzco,  you 
will  not  mind,  as  this  is  the  junction  where  the  roads  divide. 
Probably  you  must  descend  here  to  spend  the  night.  Passing 
through  the  station  on  the  right  of  the  track,  you  will  find  a 
plaza,  on  the  left  side  of  which  is  a  hotel  providing  clean  beds 
and  enough  to  eat,  with  no  display  of  elegance.  The  next 
morning  at  9.15  you  may  set  out  for  Cuzeo,  if  Thursday  ar- 
riving there  at  7.40  p.  m.  If  Tuesday  or  Saturday  it  will  be 
necessary  to  spend  a  night  at  Sieuani,  the  journey  by  slow 
train  consuming  two  days. 

At  Juliaca  are  many  men  and  women,  venders  of  a  great 
variety  of  foods  and  of  merchandise.  Many  others  will  be  seen 
at  the  stations  on  the  road  to  Cuzco,  women  wearing  odd  stiff 
hats,  flat  as  the  proverbial  pancake,  short  skirts,  and  shawls, 
men  with  short  trousers  and  ponchos.  Pottery  in  curious 
shapes,  jars,  water  bottles,  and  ornaments  may  be  purchased, 
match  safes,  tooth-pick  holders,  etc.  The  Indians  are  indus- 
trious, generally  occupied  with  spinning,  even  while  walking 
and  carrying  on  the  back  heavy  burdens. 

Tirapata,  where  there  may  be  a  pause  of  twenty  minutes  for 
breakfast,  is  a  place  of  considerable  importance,  headquarters 
for  the  Inca  Mining  and  Kubber  Companies,  where  their  wagon 
road  begins  towards  the  Santo  Domingo  gold  mines,  their  min- 
ing property  at  an  altitude  of  7000  feet,  and  their  rubber  lands 
beyond.  Eight  thousand  acres  of  land  were  presented  by  the 
Government  to  this  company  for  every  mile  of  road  opened  to 
traffic;  and  one  was  made  across  the  plateau  northeasterly,  as 
far  as  the  mountains.  Over  the  Aricoma  Pass,  16,500  feet,  and 
down  the  steep  slopes  through  ravines  and  gorges  on  the  other 
side,  a  trail  for  mules  is  still  the  only  pathway.  Eecently  a 


CUZCO  111 

concession  has  been  granted  to  the  Peruvian  Corporation  to 
build  a  railroad  from  Tirapata  or  from  Urcos  to  navigation  on 
the  Madre  de  Dios,  not  to  really  deep  water,  but  to  a  point  ac- 
cessible to  boats  of  two  feet  draught,  perhaps  at  Tahuantin- 
suyo.  This  is  likely  to  be  the  third  or  fourth  important  route 
across  Peru  from  the  Pacific  to  navigation  on  a  tributary  of 
the  Amazon. 

La  Eaya,  the  highest  point  between  Juliaca  and  Cuzco,  with 
an  altitude  of  14,150  feet,  is  on  the  dividing  line  of  the  water- 
shed between  the  Amazon  system  and  that  of  Lake  Titicaca. 
Here  is  the  knot  of  Vflcanota  where  the  Coast  and  the  Eastern 
Cordilleras  unite,  and  where  the  sacred  river,  Vilcamayu, 
takes  its  origin  in  a  little  sacred  lake  lying  at  the  foot  of  a 
snowy  peak  visible  from  Cuzco.  Now,  leaving  the  bleak  pla- 
teau region,  the  train  descends  the  Vileamayn  Valley  to  a 
milder  region. 

Sicuani,  2500  feet  below,  the  most  important  place  along  the 
road,  was  for  some  years  the  terminus  of  the  railway  line. 
It  boasts  therefore  of  a  good  hotel,  the  Lafayette.  Here  the 
night  was  formerly  spent,  the  remainder  of  the  journey  to 
Cuzco  being  by  diligence,  certainly  an  advantage  as  far  as 
enjoying  the  scenery  is  concerned.  The  Sicuani  market  place 
is  noted  for  its  extraordinarily  picturesque  appearance,  the 
Indians  coming  for  miles  around  to  make  their  purchases, 
largely  by  barter.  Journeying  by  accommodation  train,  which 
has  some  advantages,  one  spends  the  night  here  and  arrives  the 
next  afternoon  in  Cuzco. 

The  train  passes  many  historic  sites  and  ancient  ruins,  just 
out  of  view  the  famed  Lake  Urcos  into  which,  the  story  goes, 
was  thrown  the  wonderful  gold  chain  of  the  Prince  Huascar. 
This  was  said  to  be  long  enough  to  encircle  the  great  plaza  of 
Cuzeo,  with  each  link  weighing  100  Ibs.  Projects  have  been 
formed  to  drain  this  lake  in  the  hope  of  finding  here  much 
ancient  treasure,  but  though  small  the  lake  is  very  deep  and 
no  real  effort  has  been  made. 

Cuzco 

At  last  the  railroad  leaves  the  main  valley  to  follow  up 
a  tributary  on  the  left,  the  Huatanay.  At  the  head  of  this 
side  valley,  it  reaches  the  ancient  city  of  Cuzco,  once  the 


112  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

metropolis  of  a  vast  realm  surpassed  in  extent  or  in  wealth 
by  few  in  the  world's  history,  probably  equaled  by  none  in 
the  number  of  people  living,  contented  and  peaceful,  under 
a  single  sway. 

Prom  the  station  half  a  mile  from  the  center  of  the  city, 
an  attractive  boulevard  is  being  laid  out,  on  which  a  tram  car 
runs  to  the  central  plaza,  or  by  this  time  electrics.  Carriages 
too  may  serve  and  boys  are  eager  to  carry  hand  baggage.  The 
hotels,  alas !  leave  much  to  be  desired.  Slow,  indeed,  are  the 
people  to  realize  the  necessities  which  must  be  supplied  if  the 
town  is  to  advance,  to  attract  tourists  and  business  men.  The 
residents  have  not  seemed  to  care  whether  there  was  progress 
or  not,  but  the  Central  Government  is  interested,  the  Prefect 
who  comes  from  Lima  is  endeavoring  to  work  a  revolution, 
and  the  cultivated  inhabitants  have  begun  to  realize  their  con- 
dition, and  to  remedy  the  evils  which  have  long  been  a  reproach. 

The  Hotel  Comercio  may  be  endured  for  a  night  or  two, 
since  it  is  in  a  very  worthy  cause.  The  other  hotel,  the  Royal, 
is  no  better.  Another,  the  Central,  is  spoken  of,  opposite  the 
church,  La  Merced.  One  does  not  go  to  Cuzco  for  the  lux- 
uries of  New  York  or  Paris,  but  if  unhappy  without  these 
he  must  postpone  this  part  of  the  journey  a  while  longer. 
One  writer  says  that  the  Comercio  affords  reasonably  good 
meals  and  decent  bedrooms.  Other  opinions  are  less  favorable, 
but  conditions  may  have  improved  by  now.  On  the  spur  of  a 
Trill  which  closes  the  head  of  the  valley,  at  an  altitude  of  11,500 
feet,  is  situated  the  ancient  imperial  city.  Some  knowledge 
of  the  history  of  its  rulers,  the  greatness  of  its  domain,  the 
development  of  its  civilization,  the  magnificence  of  its  temples, 
the  power  and  riches  of  its  princes,  and  tlie  terrible  tragedy 
of  their  downfall  gives  a  keener  interest  to  the  massive  ruins, 
the  delightful  prospect,  and  to  everything  in  this  remote  val- 
ley which  is  connected  with  the  unique  and  wonderful  empire 
of  world-wide  and  immortal  fame.  At  the  time  of  its  capture, 
four  centuries  ago,  few  if  any  cities  in  the  world  could 
rival  Cuzeo  in  the  magnificence  of  its  temples,  and  their  treas- 
ures of  gold  and  silver,  and  none  in  the  massive  fortifications 
and  other  constructions  of  which  the  remains  are  still  a 
marveL 

In  the  history  of  tliis  ancient  city  there  are  at  least  four  periods : 


CUZCO  113 

the  prae-Inea  age;  the  glorious  epoch  of  the  Inca  dynasty;  the 
merciless,  mournful  days  of  bloodshed  and  destruction,  followed  by 
the  brilliant  reconstruction  and  the  relentless  rule  of  the  Spanish  in- 
vaders; and  the  slow  progress  of  the  modern  republic.  From  the 
earliest  period  date  the  megalithic  ruins  of  Saesahuaman  and  else- 
where, regarded  as  belonging  to  the  same  age  as  those  of  Tiahuanaeo 
and  a  few  other  places,  their  origin  alike  involved  in  mystery.  Sir 
Clements  Markham,  the  most  careful  student  of  this  early  civiliza- 
tion, believes  it  to  be  an  indigenous  growth  of  great  antiquity, 
though  there  is  a  tradition  of  an  early  outside  influence  from  the 
south. 

The  great  empire  of  the  Incas  was  of  comparatively  short  dura- 
tion; according  to  commonly  accepted  tradition,  it  existed  for  about 
four  centuries.  The  most  current  and  approved  legend  of  the 
Ineas'  origin  is  that  they  were  the  children  of  the  Sun,  who  pitying 
the  sad  condition  of  his  creatures  sent  to  their  aid  two  of  his  off- 
spring, Manco  Ccapac  and  Mama  Oella,  brother  and  sister,  also  hus- 
band and  wife.  These  first  appearing  on  the  Island  of  the  Sun  in 
Lake  Titieaea  thence  came  to  Cuzco  and  established  their  dominion. 
Maneo  seems  to  have  been  a  great  and  wise  ruler,  probably  of 
Quiehua  origin,  and  to  have  lived  in  the  twelfth  century.  Hig  suc- 
cessor Sinchi  Rocca  was  a  peaceful  ruler,  but  the  third  Inea,  Lloque 
Yupanqui,  subjugated  some  of  the  neighboring  peoples.  The  fourth, 
Maita  Ceapae,  was  a  greater  warrior,  extending  his  kingdom  over 
most  of  Bolivia,  and  to  Arequipa  and  Moquegua.  The  fifth  Inca, 
Ceapae  Yupanqui,  who  was  called  avaricious,  employed  his  reign  in 
subduing  insurrections  in  regions  already  conquered.  His  successor, 
Inca  Roeca,  was  an  eminent  warrior  and  statesman,  who  built  great 
palaces,  founded  schools  for  the  education  of  the  nobility,  and  made 
strict  laws  for  the  welfare  and  protection  of  the  people,  with 
severe  punishment,  even  death,  to  murderers,  incendiaries,  and  thieves, 

The  seventh  Inca,  Titu  Cusi  Hualpa,  was  less  successful.  An  in- 
vasion by  the  tribes  of  Chinehasuyo  caused  him  to  flee  in  alarm,  but 
his  son,  collecting  an  army,  defeated  the  invaders  and  was  then 
crowned,  with  the  name  of  Yiracocha.  During  his  reign  eleven 
provinces  were  added  to  the  empire,  and  a  magnificent  temple  was 
erected  twenty  miles  south  of  Cuzco  with  an  altar  to  Yiracocha,  a 
deity  who  had  appeared  to  the  prince  to  warn  him  of  the  coming  in- 
vasion, informing  him  that  lie  was  the  creator  of  man,  the  world, 
the  sun,  and  all  else.  A  remarkable  engineering  feat  of  this  reign 
was  the  construction  of  an  irrigating  canal  nearly  four  hundred  miles 
long  and  twelvexfeet  deep  to  convert  some  plains  below  into  green 
pasture  lands.  The  eldest  son  of  Yiraeoeha,  who  was  of  small  ac- 
count, was  presently  succeeded  by  his  brother  Pachaeutee  who  brought 


114  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

still  greater  glory  to  the  empire.  With  the  excellent  armies  organized 
by  Pachaeutec,  his  son  Tupac- Yupanqui  made  conquests  along  the 
coast  from  Pisco  north  including  Pachacamac,  the  realm  of  the 
Grand  Chimu  near  Trujillo,  and  the  valley  of  Cajamarca.  These 
cities  were  not  destroyed,  but  were  left  under  the  dominion  of  their 
former  rulers  as  vassals  to  the  Inca,  the  worship  of  the  Sun  being 
associated  with  their  former  religion;  but  the  learning  and  use  of 
the  Quiehua  language  was  made  compulsory.  Every  government  of- 
ficial and  soldier  was  obliged  to  speak  this  language. 

After  the  death  of  Pachacutee  at  the  age  of  eighty,  his  son  Tupac 
Yupanqui,  the  tenth  Inea,  conquered  Chile  as  far  as  the  Maule  River 
and  spent  three  years  in  a  tour  to  the  various  parts  of  his  empire. 
Some  uncertainty  exists  about  an  Inca  Yupanqui,  but  a  younger 
son  of  Tupac  called  Huayna-Ceapae,  near  the  close  of  his  father's 
reign,  carried  still  farther  the  conquests  even  to  Quito,  which  he 
won  from  its  king.  His  reign  was  one  of  wisdom  until  its  close. 
The  rightful  heir  Huascar,  son  of  the  Coya  or  Queen,  -had  a  rival  in 
his  father's  affections,  a  younger  son,  Atahuallpa,  of  another,  Pacha. 
Having  himself  retired  to  Quito  before  his  death,  Huayna  Ccapac  left 
that  province  to  his  son  Atahuallpa,  and  the  throne  of  Cuzeo  to 
Huascar.  Thus  happened  the  division,  so  disastrous  to  the  Inea 
dynasty,  possibly  altering  in  some  measure  the  whole  of  Peruvian 
history. 

The  location  of  Cuzeo  is  said  to  be  more  beautiful  than  that 
of  Quito  or  Bogota,  both  of  world-wide  fame.  Rome,  Athens, 
and  Sparta,  in  the  opinion  of  many,  present  less  charming 
scenes  than  that  which  is  outspread  before  the  observer  on 
Saesahuaman.  Yet  how  altered  from  the  days  of  its  glory! 
Then  the  hills  around,  fertilized  with  guano  and  small  fish 
and  irrigated  throughout  their  entire  extent,  were  terraced 
and  cultivated  to  their  summits.  Then  the  city  and  its  sub- 
urbs are  said  to  have  contained  400,000  souls.  The  gates  of 
the  walled  enclosure  were  of  colored  marble.  Within  were 
great  palaces,  their  walls  painted  in  bright  colors. 

The  Temple  of  fhe  Sun  was  covered  with  a  roof  of  gold. 
In  the  gardens  around  were  artificial  flowers  of  gold  and  silver, 
figures  of  animals  large  and  small,  wild  and  domestic,  of  herbs, 
plants,  and  trees ;  a  field  of  make,  fruit  trees,  images  of  men, 
women,  and  children.  The  doors  were  covered  with  gold  plate. 
A  gold  cornice  more  than  a  yard  deep,  around  the  building, 
did  not  remain  long  in  place  after  the  occupation  by;  the  Span- 


CUZCO  115 

iards.  The  golden  roof  had  been  removed  previous  to  their 
arrival.  This  sumptuous  temple  called  Corieaneha,  Place  of 
Gold,  begun  by  the  first  Inea,  Maneo  Capac,  was  not  con- 
cluded for  many  generations  until  the  time  of  Inea  Yupanqui, 
each  Inca  in  the  meantime  contributing  a  share  towards  the 
completion  of  the  great  work.  The  form  of  the  temple  was 
elliptical,  and  opposite  the  entrance  where  the  rays  of  the 
rising  sun  would  fall  upon  it  was  a  gold  effigy  representing 
the  Sun.  Golden  rays  projected  from  his  head  so  that  the 
entire  creation  occupied  one  side  of  the  temple.  When  the 
sun's  rays  fell  upon  the  figure  the  effect  was  indeed  dazzling, 
lighting  up  the  place  with  such  radiance  that  the  Indian 
Nobles,  who  alone  were  permitted  to  enter,  prostrated  them- 
selves, striking  their  foreheads  on  the  pavement.  The  only 
women  allowed  within  the  temple  were  the  wife  and  daughters 
of  the  ruling  Inca.  On  each  side  of  the  deity  were  arranged 
the  dead  mummified  bodies  of  the  Ineas,  clad  in  royal  robes, 
seated  upon  golden  thrones,  with  eyes  downcast  and  hands 
folded  across  their  breasts.  One  only,  Huayna  Ccapac, 
faced  the  god,  one  story  says  because  he  was  the  best  loved, 
another,  because  he  dared  to  gaze  at  the  sun  and  show  that  this 
luminary  was  not  the  creative  lord. 

Beyond  this,  the  chief  holy  place  of  the  temple,  was  a  rect- 
angular cloister  with  five  square  chapels  around.  One  dedi- 
cated to  the  Moon  contained  a  silver  image  of  a  woman's  face. 
In  this  chapel  were  arranged  the  bodies  of  the  Queens  called 
Coyas,  as  were  the  Incas  in  the  chamber  of  the  Sun.  The 
next  hall,  its  ceiling  covered  with  silver  stars,  was  dedicated 
to  the  Stars;  the  third,  adorned  with  gold,  was  to  Thunder 
and  Lightning.  Next  came  the  hall  of  the  Rainbow  with 
colored  delineations  on  gold  plate,  and  finally  a  hall  covered 
with  gold  where  the  priests  gave  audience.  Many  jewels, 
emeralds  and  turquoise,  were  set  in  the  mouldings  of  gold. 
The  bodies  of  the  Incas  were  removed  before  the  coming  of 
the  invaders,  but  in  1559  five  were  discovered  and  subse- 
quently carried  to  Lima,  where  they  were  buried  in  the  patio 
of  the  San  Andres  hospital.  Four  streets  which  led  to  the 
temple  of  the  Sun  are  now  called  Careel,  Loreto,  Santa  Cata- 
lina,  and  San  Augustin. 

Near  by,  where  now  is  the  convent  of  Santa  Catalina,  was 


116  THE  SOUTH  AMEBICAN  TOUE 

the  House  of  the  Virgins,  who,  like  the  Vestals  at  Borne,  fed 
the  sacred  fire.  Of  these  there  were  1500  or  more,  some  from 
Cuzco  of  royal  lineage,  others  from  the  provinces,  selected 
for  their  beauty  from  those  of  high  birth.  They  spun  and 
wove  the  clothing  of  the  Inca  and  his  Queen  and  had  various 
other  duties.  Their  dishes  and  utensils  were  of  gold.  They 
entered  the  convent  before  they  were  eight  years  of  age  and 
here,  vowed  to  chastity,  they  spent  their  lives.  This  build- 
ing was  200  by  800  feet. 

Each  Inca  built  for  himself  a  great  palace,  and  above  were 
the  wonderful  fortifications  of  Sacsahuaman.  "West  of  the 
town  is  a  place  called  Huaca-puneu,  Holy  Gate,  which  is  ap- 
proached by  a  steep  street.  At  a  certain  spot  every  Indian 
paused  to  look  back  or  forward,  this  being  the  first  or  last 
point  from  which  could  be  seen  tie  Temple  of  the  Sun.  And 
still  to-day,  as  four  centuries  ago,  the  Indians  continue  this 
ancient  custom. 

The  visitor  may  first  stroll  about  the  modern  city,  which, 
should  occupy  him  for  a  day  or  more,  and  then  turn  to  the 
ruins  above.  A  short  distance  east  of  the  Hotel  Comercio 
is  a  larger  plaza  called  the  Matriz,  which  with  the  other  two, 
the  Regorijo  and  the  San  Francisco,  in  ancient  days  formed 
a  huge -single  plaza,  the  scene  of  many  great  festivals,  its 
periphery  the  measure  of  Huascar's  gold  chain.  First  to  at- 
tract observation  is  the  imposing  Cathedral,  regarded  as  third 
in  splendor  in  the  New  World,  following  those  of  Mexico  and 
Lima.  Begun  in  1560,  later  than  that  in  Lima,  it  was  earlier 
finished,  in  1654.  One  writer  calls  it  the  most  perfect  ex- 
ample of  colonial  architecture  existing.  It  has  the  usual 
three  doors  and  naves,  with  two  rows  of  Corinthian  columns 
carved,  in  front  only,  to  their  base.  Built  of  stone  in  the 
Benaissance  style,  the  cost  of  the  cathedral  was  so  great  that 
one  of  the  Viceroys  remarked  that  it  would  have  been  less 
expensive  in  silver.  The  choir  in  the  central  nave  is  of  superb 
carving,  the  high  altar  in  front  is  covered  with  silver.  Two 
fine  organs  provide  music.  There  are  many  paintings,  one 
attributed  to  Van  Dyck,  El  Senor  de  la  Agonia.  Portraits 
of  the  Popes  and  of  all  the  bishops  of  Cuzco  are  contained 
in  the  sacristy.  A  monstrance  ornamented  with  diamonds, 
pearls,  rubies,  etc.,  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  possessions. 


CATHEDRAL    PLAZA,   MATRIZ 


V.    .-..,-.•      -••>"•  ••••'.'".ffy  '.,',-!#:?.:?'        4     fi     »** 

:•••'     ,  ./.^VTSTTIP  '^^-^^tffevS 
/ .    .    ••    .:>*.-.  fS-'^fc^*;:*^.^?.*1-^'^'/:^ 


ANCIENT   WALL 


CUZCO  117 

On  the  right  of  the  Cathedral  Is  the  Chapel  of  the  Sacred 
Heart,  on  the  left,  the  Chapel  of  Triumph.  In  front  of  the 
Cathedral  which,  with  the  Chapel  of  Triumph,  occupies  the 
site  of  the  palace  of  Viraeoeha  stood  a  round  tower. 

Especial  heed  should  be  given  to  the  tone  of  the  Cathedral 
bell,  called  one  of  the  richest  in  the  world.  It  is  styled  the 
Maria  Angola  from  the  name  of  a  pious  lady  who  presented 
300  Ibs.  weight  of  gold  to  be  used  in  its  casting.  The  great 
bell,  which  is  large  enough  to  cover  eight  men,  was  made  in 
Cuzeo  in  1659,  so  heavy  that  an  inclined  plane  was  built  to 
hoist  it  to  the  tower  and  many  men  were  required  for  the 
task.  It  is  said  that  the  bell  may  be  heard  for  a  distance  of 
25  miles,  and  that  its  rich  tones,  due  to  the  large  amount  of 
gold  in  its  composition,  are  especially  inclined  to  awaken  a 
spirit  of  reverence. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  Plaza  will  be  noticed  the  Church 
of  the  Compania,  the  Jesuits',  standing  on  the  site  of  one 
of  the  later  Inca  palaces,  that  of  Huayna  Ccapae,  father  of 
Atahuallpa  and  Huascar.  This  church,  one  of  the  finest  in 
Cuzco,  is  cruciform  in  shape  with  a  single  broad  nave  and  a 
large  dome  at  the  intersection  of  the  transverse  aisles. 
Pillars  both  round  and  square  support  the  fine  arches  of 
the  church. 

On  the  corner  of  Loreto  calle,  nearer  to  the  Cathedral,  was 
once  the  palace  of  the  Inca  Tupanqui,  some  distance  back  of 
which  was  that  of  Inca  Tupac  Tupanqui.  At  the  farther 
corner,  also  of  the  south  side,  was  the  palace  of  Huascar 
beyond  the  calle  de  la  Carcel  which  led  down  to  the  Temple 
of  the  Sun,  now  built  over  by  the  church  and  convent  of 
Santo  Domingo.  The  church  is  not  so  fine  as  some  of  the 
others,  but  deserves  a  visit  on  account  of  the  historical  associa- 
tions, the  altar  now  occupying  the  position  formerly  sacred 
to  the  Sun  god.  The  exceptional  oval  wall  behind  the  altar 
should  be  noted,  indicating  the  elliptical  form  of  the  ancient 
structure.  The  cloister  has  a  finely  carved  stone  archway, 
and  columns  around  a  patio  of  the  convent,  which  was  one 
of  the  earliest  Spanish  edifices  in  Peru. 

The  convent  of  Santa  Catalina  close  by  is  on  the  site  of 
the  ancient  House  of  the  Virgins. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Plaza  were  the  palace  of  the  Inca 


118  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Rocca,  next  the  Cassama  or  House  of  Freezing,  the  mag- 
nificence of  which  was  supposed  to  stiffen  the  beholder  with 
admiration,  and  then  the  palace  of  Inea  Pachacutee.  The 
walls  of  the  ancient  structures  were  used  for  the  lower  floors 
of  Spanish  dwellings  and  a  second  story  with  balconies  was 
added  above.  Here  are  now  houses  and  shops  with  arched 
arcades  in  front,  much  as  in  the  time  of  Garcilasso  de  la  Vega, 
a  boy  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest.  The  palace  of  Pachaeutec, 
the  Inca  legislator,  is  the  residence,  according  to  Fuentes,  of 
C.  Gonzales  Martinez,  calle  del  Triunfo  No.  78.  On  this 
street  is  the  famous  great  stone  with  twelve  angles.  At  No. 
116  on  this  street,  the  house  of  Senora  Juana  Arinibar,  was, 
says  Fuentes,  the  palace  of  Tupanqui.  Francisco  Pizarro 
once  occupied  the  mansion  now  the  residence  of  the  Prefect; 
his  brother  Gronzalo,  a  house  in  the  portal  Harinas. 

"While  the  great  Plaza  of  Cuzco  in  the  days  of  the  Incas 
must  have  been  the  scene  of  many  joyous,  marvellously  bril- 
liant and  sumptuous  festivities,  in  violent  contrast  after  the 
Conquest  it  witnessed  the  most  terrible  tragedies.  Here  in 
1571  the  youthful  Inea,  Tupac  Amaru,  was  beheaded  in  the 
presence  of  a  vast  crowd  of  Indians.  For  a  moment  the  hand 
of  the  executioner  was  stayed  by  the  wail  of  horror  that 
arose,  but  the  ruthless  Viceroy  Toledo  would  grant  no  mercy. 
The  head  of  Tupac  was  set  up  on  a  pike.  In  the  middle  of 
the  night,  a  Spaniard  looking  from  his  window  was  amazed 
to  see  the  entire  Plaza  filled  with  kneeling  Indians,  in  silent 
veneration  before  the  last  of  their  rulers.  Next  day  the  head 
was  removed  and  buried.  Two  hundred  years  later,  in  1781, 
a  greater  atrocity  was  committed.  Another  of  the  same  name 
who  had  led  in  revolt  his  kinsmen,  suffering  from  the  inhuman, 
exactions  of  their  rulers,  was  here  compelled  to  witness  the 
torture  and  execution  of  his  wife  and  other  relatives.  Then 
after  having  his  tongue  cut  out,  he  was  torn  limb  from  limb 
by  four  horses.  It  is  small  wonder  that  the  Quichuas  appear 
of  a  stolid,  melancholy  disposition. 

The  church  of  La  Merced  should  be  visited,  especially  to 
observe  the  fine  cloister  with  its  admirable  arches,  columns, 
and  staircase,  as  also  because  here  are  the  remains  of  the  old 
warrior  ALmagro  and  the  brothers,  Juan  and  Gonzalo 
Pizarro. 


CUZCO  119 

Above  the  city,  slopes  toward  the  north  a  steep  hill  between 
two  gorges,  the  Huatanay  on  the  east  and  the  Tulumayu  on 
the  west,  crowned  with  the  world  renowned  fortress  of 
Sacsahuaman.  A  long  half  day  at  the  least  is  needed  to 
investigate  this  and  other  ruins  above.  Many,  with  a  whole 
day  to  spare,  will  find  it  delightful,  setting  out  early  with  a 
luncheon,  to  linger  above  until  the  shadows  begin  to  fall. 

One  may  go  on  foot  or  horseback  (it  may  be  a  mule)  accord- 
ing to  his  taste  and  ability.  An  extremely  athletic  gentleman 
says  the  climb  is  best  done  on  a  mule.  Certainly  it  is  better 
for  one  not  fond  of  walking,  but  to  a  good  pedestrian  the 
walk  is  no  hardship.  Turning  to  the  right  on  the  ealle 
Triunfo  one  will  pass  a  great  wall  containing  the  famous 
stone  with  twelve  angles  into  which  other  stones  are  beau- 
tifully fitted.  This  method  of  construction  is  characteristic. 
They  did  not  trouble  to  make  rectangular  blocks  of  a  fixed 
size,  but  utilized  stones  both  large  and  small  of  various 
shapes,  and  fitted  them  perfectly  to  each  other.  In  some  cases 
the  joining  is  so  fine  that  the  thinnest  knife  cannot  be  inserted. 
Nor  was  mortar  used  in  the  construction.  How  their  won- 
derful work  was  accomplished  without  tools  of  steel  or  other 
metal  remains  a  mystery.  There  is  a  legend  that  they  knew 
of  a  plant  th$  juices  of  which  in  some  magical  manner  softened 
the  stone  so  that  it  could  easily  be  rubbed  into  the  required 
shape.  This  great  wall  perhaps  enclosed  the  palace  of  Manco 
Ccapae,  the  first  Inea,  of  which  some  remains  are  above. 
Still  higher,  on  a  terrace  back  of  this  palace,  was  the  Garden 
of  the  Sun  which  was  yearly  the  first  to  be  cultivated.  Mark- 
ham  calls  this  the  most  lovely  and  the  saddest  spot  in  Peru. 
Beyond  the  calle  Triunfo,  to  one  climbing  the  hill  along  the 
edge  of  the  gorge,  scenes  of  beauty  are  continually  revealed 
as  one  pauses  to  rest  and  look  about  him.  The  great  fortress 
on  the  hilltop  was  so  difficult  of  access  that  in  the  greater  part 
of  its  circumference  a  single  wall  sufficed;  but  to  the  northeast 
or  rear,  as  regarded  from  the  city,  the  approach  was  gradual. 
On  that  side  for  a  distance  of  330  yards,  were  constructed 
three  great  parallel  walls  which  had  21  advancing  and  re- 
entrant angles,  so  that  every  point  could  be  enfiladed.  These 
walls,  which  may  be  called  Cyclopean,  are  said  to  contain 
stones  surpassing  in  size  any  found  in  ancient  Mykenae  or 


120  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

other  Greek  strongholds.  One  of  the  largest  stones  weighs 
about  36  tons.  They  are  of  limestone  brought  from  quarries 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  away,  though  other  writers  state  that 
they  came  from  a  distance  of  5  and  15  leagues.  One  30  feet 
long  is  said  by  one  writer  to  weigh  160  tons.  The  most  per- 
fectly planned  fortress  ever  built  is  the  extraordinary  tribute 
which  this  work  has  received.  Against  what  people  such  a 
stronghold  was  required  is  a  mystery.  The  lowest  of  the 
three  walls  was  27  feet  high,  the  second  was  18,  and  the 
uppermost  14;  on  the  inside,  the  parapet  was  breast  high. 
Between  each  two  walls  there  was  a  space  of  25  to  30  feet. 
In  each  wall  near  the  center  was  a  gate  which  could  be  raised- 
There  is  a  story  of  a  tired  stone  which  was  left  on  the  road 
and  wept  blood  at  being  unable  to  reach  the  fortress.  It  is 
related  that  this  stone,  being  dragged  by  20,000  Indians,  half 
in  front  with  stout  cables  and  half  behind,  slipped  back  down 
the  hill  Trilling  several  thousand,  and  thus  it  wept  blood. 

At  the  top  of  the  hill  in  a  triangular  space  within  the  en- 
closure were  three  strong  towers.  The  central  tower,  circular 
in  shape,  contained  a  fountain  with  water  brought  from  some 
distance.  The  walls  of  the  tower  were  decorated  with  birds 
and  animals  of  gold  and  silver.  Here  kings  were  lodged  who 
came  to  pay  a  visit.  From  the  parapet  the  Inca  prince, 
Cahuide,  overcome  in  a  final  struggle,  plunged  to  his  death. 
The  other  two  towers  which  were  square  provided  lodgings 
for  soldiers.  They  had  equal  space  underground  with  sub- 
terranean passages  forming  a  labyrinth  for  which  a  skein  of 
wool  was  needed  as  a  guide.  There  were  no  arches,  but  cor- 
bels with  long  stones  laid  across.  One  of  these  towers  was 
the  last  to  be  defended  by  the  Inca  subjects  against  the 
Spanish.  The  invaders  soon  dismantled  the  colossal  Sae- 
sahuaman  fortress  for  material  to  construct  their  dwellings, 
perhaps  also  to  impair  its  strength  as  a  refuge  in  case  of 
insurrection.  Impressive  are  these  great  walls,  and  the  ruins 
beyond  in  a  vast  solitude  where  no  habitation  is  in  sight,  per- 
haps no  human  being.  A  little  plain  lies  between  Saesahua- 
man  and  a  hill  called  Eodadero,  once  partly  walled.  Here 
are  curious  masses  of  rock  which  look  as  if  children  or  older 
persons  had  slidden  over  them  for  ages.  Some  believe  that 
the  white  rock  solidified  in  this  form,  others  that  the  ridges 


CUZCO  121 

were  artificially  cut,  and  still  others  that  they  have  teen  worn 
as  above  indicated.  Certain  it  is  that  youths  on  feast  days  or 
as  they  have  opportunity  still  take  pleasure  in  the  pastime  of 
sliding.  A  little  farther  on,  carved  in  the  solid  rock,  is  a  seat 
called  the  Inca's  throne,  where  he  may  have  sat  to  watch  his 
people  at  their  sports  and  dances,  or  to  review  his  troops,  or 
alone  in  state  to  contemplate  his  dominions  and  the  setting 
sun.  Very  near  is  a  stone  in  which  there  is  a  channel  ten 
inches  wide  and  over  which  is  a  little  bridge,  thought  to  be 
a  place  of  libation.  It  is  said  that  chicha  is  thus  offered  here 
to-day.  Two  caves  may  be  seen  close  by,  a  small  one  of 
labyrinthine  character,  with  entrance  three  feet  high. 

Somewhat  east  of  the  Eodadero  is  another  rock  formation 
with  large  double  perfectly  level  stairs  with  a  small  landing 
at  the  top.  By  some  this  is  regarded  as  the  true  Inca  seat 
All  about,  carved  in  the  living  rock  are  niches,  benches,  and 
seats  of  every  kind  and  shape. 

From  Cuzco  a  delightful  excursion  may  be  made  to  visit 
other  ruins  in  the  TJrubamba  Valley,  delightful  that  is  to  those 
who  do  not  object  to  riding  on  a  mule  over  difficult  if  not 
dangerous  trails,  or  sleeping  on  floor  or  table,  with  a  rather 
poor  food  supply.  Temporary  discomfort  will,  however,  be 
most  highly  rewarded  to  the  lover  of  romantic  scenery  as  well 
as  to  the  tourist  of  archaeological  tastes.  One  may  go  up  over 
the  hills  back  of  Cuzco  direct  to  Tucay  or  to  TJrubamba,  and 
the  next  day  arrive  at  Ollantaytambo. 

These  ruins  of  Ollantaytambo  in  the  valley  of  the  TJru- 
bamba  River,  at  the  entrance  of  a  side  ravine,  have  long  been 
known  as  those  of  a  great  fortress  or  fortified  palace  arranged 
on  several  terraces,-  the  first  plateau  300  feet  from  the  floor 
of  the  valley.  Here  are  immense  stone  slabs,  polygonal  walls 
with  recesses  for  household  gods,  a  circle  or  pillar  called  a 
Intihuatana  for  observing  the  equinox,  and  other  remains  in  a 
valley  of  wonderful  beauty.  The  story  of  the  Tired  Stone 
is  also  connected  with  this  place.  Farther  down,  about  60 
miles  northwest  of  Cuzco,  are  the  still  more  wonderful  remains 
of  Macchu-Pichu,  recently  brought  to  the  knowledge  of  the 
world  by  Professor  Hiram  Bingham  and  described  in  the 
April,  1913,  number  of  the  National  Geographic  Magazine. 
This  is  thought  to  have  been  a  city  of  refuge  of  earlier  date 


122  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

than  Cuzco,  a  large  walled  settlement  2000  feet  above  the  bot- 
tom of  the  valley  and  7000  feet  above  the  sea.  The  Spaniards 
appear  never  to  have  reached  this  point,  hence  the  ruins  are 
in  a  remarkable  state  of  preservation.  Here  are  terraces,  many 
houses,  fountains,  towers,  100  staircases,  and  beautiful  walls 
of  rectangular  stones.  The  valley  itself  with  its  steep  rugged 
walls,  its  luxuriant  vegetation,  and  its  views  of  snowclad 
mountains  is  one  of  incomparable  loveliness. 

Nearer  to  Cuzco  are  ruins  previously  known  and  easily 
accessible,  at  Tucay  palaces  and  baths,  and  still  higher  up 
the  valley  the  fortress,  palace,  and  rock  tombs  of  Pisac;  all 
of  these  in  the  same  valley,  that  of  the  River  VILeamayu  or 
Yilcanota,  as  it  is  called  in  the  upper  part,  below  becoming  the 
Urubamba,  then,  on  uniting  with  the  Apurimac,  the  Ueayali, 
which  with  the  Maranon  forms  the  Amazon.  ^ 

Other  ruins,  Choquequirau  on  the  Apurimac  River,  Nusta 
Espana  and  Vitcos  on  the  Vileabamba  River,  are  more  difficult 
of  access,  though  by  no  means  impossible ;  but  to  investigate 
all  would  require  weeks.  Before  undertaking  such  journeys, 
one  should  read  the  accounts  of  other  travelers  and  come  suit- 
ably prepared ;  they  are  not  for  the  ordinary  tourist.  When 
the  railroad  has  been  extended  from  Huancayo  to  Cuzco,  a 
very  expensive  work,  the  completion  of  which  may  be  delayed 
for  some  years,  this  wonderfully  romantic  region  will  attract 
many  visitors. 


CHAPTER  XIII 
BOMYIA— CUZCO  TO  LA  PAZ 

FROM  Cuzco  the  tourist  win  return  to  Juliaca,  the  junction 
on  the  main  line,  where  he  should  arrive  in  time  to  take  the 
train  at  6.15  p.  m.  for  Puno  on  Lake  Titieaca,  a  ride  of  an 
hour  and  a  quarter.  The  time  table  should  be  carefully 
studied  in  Arequipa  and  the  journey  planned  to  avoid  a 
stop-over  at  Puno.  Should  this  occur,  notwithstanding,  one 
may  look  about  the  town,  which,  founded  in  the  seventeenth 
century,  is  an  important  center  of  trade  in  alpaca  and  vicuna 
skins  and  wool.  One  may  therefore  inquire  for  rugs,  as  these 
either  of  white  alpaca  or  vicuna  are  valuable  souvenirs,  also 
purchasable  in  La  Paz.  The  shorter  vicuna  fur  from  the 
necks  and  legs  is  considered  more  desirable ;  though  the  longer 
is  preferred  by  some.  The  rugs  vary  in  price  according  to 
buyer  and  seller,  as  well  as  the  quality  of  the  fur,  from  25 
or  30  soles  to  100  or  more  for  a  special  order.  In  La  Paz 
they  are  sold  at  from  40  to  80  Bolivians  each.  Alpaca  rugs 
are  more  rare  and  cost  about  the  same  as  the  better  vicunas. 
They  are  quite  double  the  weight.  Llamas,  sometimes  called 
the  camels  of  the  ALndes,  are  prized  chiefly  as  burden  bearers, 
though  their  long  coarse  wool  is  serviceable.  The  vicuna  and 
alpaca  are  never  used  as  pack  animals,  being  smaller  and  of 
lighter  build.  The  fine  quality  of  the  vicuna  wool  and  its 
scarcity  makes  it  expensive  and  desirable.  A  poncho  or  any 
other  article  of  this  wool  is  something  to  be  valued.  The 
Indians  alone  manage  all  of  these  animals  successfully; 
though  the  vicuna  is  hardly  domesticated.  A  profitable  indus- 
try in  which  to  engage  would  be  the  culture  if  possible  of  these 
animals  for  the  wool.  The  llamas  are  of  various  colors,  black, 
brown,  white,  and  mixed;  the  alpacas  are  oftener  black  or 
white,  the  vicunas  a  tawny  or  fawn  shade,  fading  almost  to 
wliite  on  the  belly.  None  of  these  animals  have  horns,  and 

123 


124  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUK 

spitting  is  their  only  weapon  of  defense.    They  range  mostly 
from  12,000  to  15,000  feet  in  Peru  and  Bolivia. 

Puno  is  quite  a  town  with  a  large  plaza,  several  churches, 
many  nice  homes,  a  college,  a  hospital,  and,  in  the  vicinity, 
many  ancient  monuments;  one  famous  round  tower,  called  a 
chulpa,  at  Sallustani,  of  unknown  origin,  is  by  some  'believed 
to  be  a  burial  structure.  Puno  on  the  frontier  of  Peru  is  a 
meeting  place  between  the  two  tribes,  the  Quichnas  and 
Aymaras,  the  latter,  residents  of  northern  Bolivia,  while  the 
Quichuas  occupy  the  plateau  region  of  the  greater  part  of 
Peru  and  of  the  central  and  southern  portions  of  Bolivia. 

Lake  Titicaca,  halfway  between  Panama  and  Cape  Horn, 
is  on  a  great  plateau  more  than  two  miles  vertically  above  the 
level  of  the  sea.  About  135  miles  long  and  66  wide  it  has, 
with  a  very  irregular  outline,  an  area  of  more  than  5000 
square  miles.  Although  at  so  great  an  altitude  the  waters 
never  freeze,  being  slightly  warmer  than  the  atmosphere,  the 
temperature  of  which  in  winter  is  often  as  low  as  30°  Fah. 
Snowstorms  are  no  rarity.  The  glacier-covered  mountains 
on  the  southeast  have  some  effect  upon  the  climate.  A  number 
of  small  streams  flow  into  the  lake  which  has  a  single  outlet 
at  the  southwest  corner,  the  Desaguadero  Kiver,  180  miles 
long,  emptying  into  Lake  Poopo.  For  a  distance  of  30  miles 
from  Lake  Titicaea  the  river  is  navigable  for  boats  of  500 
tons.  So  high  that  one  Mt.  Washington  piled  upon  another 
would  not  rise  above  the  surface  of  the -water,  and  the  loftiest 
mountain  in  the  United  States  proper  would  appear  but  as 
one  of  the  grassy  hills  around,  this  sheet  of  water,  12,500  feet 
above  the  sea,  nearly  as  large  as  Lake  Erie,  is  the  most  elevated 
in  the  world  where  steamboats  regularly  ply. 

In  the  winter  months,  June,  July,  and  August,  it  is  quite 
dark  before  Puno  is  reached,  but  in  the  gloomy  dusk  one  will 
have  on  the  left  glimpses  of  the  Lake.  At  the  Puno  Station 
an  animated  throng  will  be  waiting  for  the  many  who  descend 
from  the  train;  but  the  majority  of  first-class  passengers,  if  it 
is  the  right  day,  will  remain  in  the  car  for  the  half-mile  ride 
to  the  docks,  where  they  embark  on  a  1000-ton  steamer  for 
the  sail  to  Guaqui  in  Bolivia.  Formerly  the  steamer  lay  at  the 
wharf  until  morning,  the  passengers  sleeping  on  board.  Then 
a  delightful  all  day's  sail  was  enjoyed  with  continually 


CUZCO  TO  LA  PAZ  125 

charming  views  of  deep  bays,  irregular  hilly  shores,  rugged 
picturesque  promontories  and  islands,  and  after  a  few  hours, 
the  splendid  Cordillera  Real  at  the  east.  Towards  sunset, 
the  line  of  snowclad  giants,  stretching  from  imposing  Ulampu 
to  lUimani,  presented  a  spectacle  of  extraordinary  mag- 
nificence. 

To  those  who  delight  in  ancient  myths  and  archaeological 
research,  perchance  to  all  who  know  the  legend  of  Manco- 
Ccapae  and  Mama  Oclla,  children  of  the  Sun,  it  would  be  a 
privilege  to  call  at  the  sacred  islet  Inti-Karka  or  Titicaca,  now 
commonly  referred  to  as  the  Island  of  the  Sun,  whence  these 
two  set  forth  on  their  wonderful  mission  and  career.  It  was 
reserved  for  the  fourth  Inca,  Maita-Ceapac,  to  return  with  an 
army  to  this  region,  then  entitled  Collasuyo,  and  to  reduce  the 
people  to  submission;  and  for  his  successor,  Ccapac  Tupanqui, 
to  complete  the  conquest.  The  Incas  were  greatly  impressed 
with  the  more  ancient  monuments  at  Tiahuanaco,  evidences  of 
a  superior  civilization;  and  on  the  island  from  which  his 
ancestors  were  supposed  to  have  issued  on  their  beneficent, 
civilizing  mission,  Tupac  Tupanqui  erected  a  splendid  palace 
and  a  temple  to  the  Sun,  the  richest  in  his  entire  empire.  A 
temple  also  was  built  to  Thunder  and  Lightning,  a  monastery 
for  the  sons  of  nobles,  a  sanctuary  for  vestal  virgins,  and 
dwellings  for  his  courtiers.  The  island  is  said  to  have  been 
paved  with  gold  and  silver.  A  smaller  island  near  by  is 
called  Coati  from  Coya,  the  Moon,  wife  of  the  Sun,  where 
temples  to  the  Moon  were  erected.  On  both  islands  many 
remains  still  exist,  but  to  visit  them  is  difficult,  as  the  regular 
steamers  sail  direct  from  Puno  to  Gnaqui,  at  the  south  end  of 
the  lake.  These  boats  which  were  built  in  Scotland,  brought 
up  in  pieces  and  here  put  together,  have  comfortable  state- 
rooms with  electric  lights  and  afford  good  enough  meals.  The 
curious  native  boats,  the  balsas^  one  must  try  to  get  a  glimpse 
of  near  the  dock  at  Puno,  or  in  the  early  morning.  These 
are  made  of  reeds,  which  grow  in  the  water  near  the  lake 
shore  and  are  bound  together  in  rolls.  The  broad  sails  also 
are  of  reeds.  After  a  while  they  become  water-soaked,  lasting 
only  about  six  months.  The  boats  are  propelled  from  shore 
with  a  long  pole.  Before  the  coming  of  the  steamships  these 
boats  transported  much  freight  among  the  vaxious  lake  ports, 


126  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

but  are  now  little  used  except  by  the  Indians  who  are  adept 
in  their  management  and  seldom  wrecked,  though,  often  severe 
storms  suddenly  arise.  August  is  the  month  of  best  weather, 
though  the  coldest.  "Warm  clothing  and  wraps  are  indispens- 
able. Thunderstorms  may  occur  at  any  time,  especially  in 
summer  when  waterspouts  are  not  infrequent;  but  in  my 
seven  crossings  the  weather  has  always  been  good  and  every- 
thing comfortable;  berth  and  meals  are  provided  without 
extra  cost. 

Copacabana.  In  1903  the  steamer  called  at  the  town  of 
Copaeabana,  on  the  west  shore  of  the  lake,  where  there  is  a 
far-famed  shrine  to  the  Virgin,  once  the  richest  and  most 
renowned  in  all  South  America-  The  story  goes  that  the  image 
of  the  Virgin  is  the  work  of  a  converted  Indian,  who,  ignorant 
and  unskilled,  from  pious  zeal  devoted  many  years  to  the 
task.  Aside  from  the  face  and  hands,  the  entire  image  is 
covered  with  gilt  upon  which  are  colored  designs  so  applied 
as  to  give  the  effect  of  an  elaborate  robe.  The  gold  crown  and 
the  many  priceless  jewels  with  which  the  image  is  decorated 
possess  a  value  indeed  amazing  to  find  in  a  town  largely  Indian 
in  this  remote  corner  of  the  globe.  Candles  are  ever  burning 
before  the  sacred  shrine.  Besides  the  church,  a  cupola  on 
columns  of  Moorish  style  is  notable.  At  the  time  of  the  great 
festival  to  the  Virgin  in  July,  this  usually  quiet  town  is 
thronged  with  Indians  who  come  from  all  directions,  a  distance 
of  100  leagues.  Mingled  with  Catholic  ritual  and  ceremonies 
are  primitive  Indian  rites  and  beliefs,  and  the  religious  exer- 
cises are  followed  by  grotesque  dances  and  songs,  drunkenness 
and  bestial  excesses,  as  happens  generally  on  the  great  feast 
days  elsewhere  among  Quichuas  and  Aymaras.  In  an  earlier 
period  there  was  here  a  city  with  accommodations  for  the  pil- 
grims who  annually  came  to  visit  the  Temple  of  the  Sun  on 
Inti-Karka  and  to  pay  homage  to  the  Inea.  Pilgrims  still 
come  from  Mexico  and  Europe  to  be  healed.  The  tourist  has 
now  no  opportunity  to  visit  the  place  except  by  chance,  or 
with  an  outlay  of  considerable  time,  trouble,  and  expense,  by 
chartering  a  special  balsa  or  by  making  use  of  the  small  coast- 
ing steamer. 

One  should  rise  early  the  morning  after  leaving  Puno,  in 
order  to  enjoy  the  imposing  sight  of  the  great  mountain  range 


CUZCO  TO  LA  PAZ  127 

from  Ittampu  to  Illimani,  a  distance  of  100  miles.  No  more 
splendid  vision,  some  maintain,  may  be  witnessed  on  the  whole 
round  earth.  As  one  beholds  the  glistening  glaciers  which, 
pierced  by  bristling  ramparts  of  rock,  in  immense  masses 
clothe  the  vast  and  towering  peats,  with  the  brown  plain  and 
the  blue  waters  of  the  lake  as  a  contrasting  foreground,  it  is 
difficult  to  realize  that  one  is  two  miles  above  the  sea  and  still 
within  the  Torrid  Zone.  After  passing  through  a  very  narrow 
strait,  the  ship  sails  west  into  a  considerable  bay,  at  last  along 
a  narrow,  artificial  channel  to  the  port  of  Guaqui  near  the 
southwest  corner  of  the  lake.  It  is  a  bustling  place  with 
plenty  of  Indian  men  and  boys  to  assist  in  transporting  hand 
baggage  to  the  train  30  or  40  rods  distant.  A  trifle  bleak, 
maybe,  in  winter,  exercise  and  sunshine  promptly  dispel  dis- 
comfort. There  is  not  much  of  Guaqui  save  the  dwellings 
connected  with  the  port  and  railway  terminal.  It  has  been 
growing  with  the  increase  in  traffic  ever  since  the  opening  of 
the  railway  in  1903 ;  but  its  progress  may  now  be  retarded  by 
the  new  railway  from  the  Pacific  recently  opened  between 
Arica  and  La  Paz.  Life  on  this  desolate  plain  which  might 
seem  a  dreary  lot  to  many  is  yet  enjoyed  by  civilized  English- 
men and  their  families,  who  find  the  climate  agreeable  and  are 
content  in  the  possession  of  all  essential  comforts. 

The  cars  for  the  journey  to  La  Paz,  60  miles  distant,  are  of 
ordinary  American  style.  A  seat  on  the  left  will  afford  the 
finer  prospects,  though  at  the  start  the  Trills  on  the  right  are 
higher.  These  are  often  covered  with  a  thin  coating  of  snow 
which  at  times  spreads  over  the  plain.  Near  the  lake  the 
land  is  well  covered  with  brown  bunch  grass,  good  food  for 
cattle,  many  of  which  with  long  rough  hair  may  be  seen  from 
the  car  window.  Trains  of  donkeys,  mules,  and  llamas  are 
often  in  evidence,  and  many  Indian  men  and  women,  not  very 
prepossessing  in  appearance,  the  Aymaras,  who  are  of  more 
churlish  manner  than  the  Quichuas  of  Peru.  Along  the  line 
are  Indian  villages  and  solitary  dwellings  of  sun-dried  bricks, 
the  latter  surrounded  by  thick  walls  of  the  same  material, 
though  walls  of  stone  are  used  to  separate  the  cultivated  fields. 
Fifteen  miles  from  Guaqui  is  Tiahuanaco,  the  seat  of  a  won- 
derful prehistoric  civilization.  Beyond  the  railway  station 
may  be  seen  at  the  left  great  stones  of  a  saered  enclosure,  a 


128    -  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOTJE 

mound  showing  evidences  of  excavations,  perhaps  a  colossal 
statue.  No  time  is  given  to  examine  these  marvellous  ruins, 
for  which  purpose  one  must  make  an  especial  excursion  from 
La  Paz. 

After  an  hour  or  so  the  Cordillera  comes  again  into  view, 
when  the  great  Illampu  will  excite  profound  admiration,  until 
the  Alto  Station  is  approached  Two  hours  from  Guaqui  the 
train  reaches  the  station  Viacha,  a  junction  from  which  a 
road  leads  south  to  Oruro,  and  the  newer  road  west  over  the 
mountains,  to  the  sea  at  Arica.  Often  there  is  here  a  long 
wait,  which  begins  with  much  bustle  and  animation,  women 
offering  for  sale  fruits,  rolls,  and  a  variety  of  curious  concoc- 
tions. The  village  is  at  some  distance  on  the  right;  a  church 
is  conspicuous  on  a  hilltop.  A  half  hour  beyond  at  the  Alto 
Station  another  pause  is  made.  The  train  is  divided  into  sec- 
tions and  with  a  special  engine  attached  the  car  proceeds  in 
reverse  direction.  For  a  moment  it  continues  on  the  prac- 
tically level  plain,  but  keep  a  sharp  look  out  I  Presto !  You 
begin  to  descend  and  suddenly  perceive  that  you  have  passed 
the  brink  of  an  enormous  canon,  its  vicinity  hitherto  unsus- 
pected, and  you  gaze  in  astonishment  at  the  steep  enclosing 
walls  and  far  below  in  the  distance  on  the  red  roofs  of  the 
city  of  La  Paz  more  than  1000  feet  beneath.  A  remarkable, 
astonishing,  and  delightful  ride  is  before  you.  One  wishes 
to  look  all  ways  at  once,  to  admire  the  long  curves  of  the 
winding  track,  the  strangely  carved  walls  of  the  canon,  the 
troops  of  llamas  or  burros  with  their  Indian  drivers,  the  steep 
pathways  up  which  they  toil,  the  patches  of  bright  green  in 
the  midst  of  the  brown  slopes,  and  the  gradually  approaching 
city.  The  descent  is  on  the  sloping  head  wall  of  the  curiously 
carved  oval  basin,  the  sides  of  which  appear  in  places  per- 
pendicular and  converge  at  the  farther  end  in  such  a  way  as 
to  leave  no  opening  visible,  though  an  outlet  is  really  there. 
The  upper  edge  of  this  great  basin  is  called  the  alto  or  height 
by  the  people  dwelling  below.  Thus  concealed  in  the  very 
heart  of  the  Andes  is  the  unique  city  of  La  Paz,  with  its 
80,000  inhabitants,  over  12,000  feet  above  the  sea,  the  highest 
capital  on  the  globe,  a  curious,  fascinating  place,  surrounded 
by  these  strange  walls ;  while  brilliant,  snow-crowned  Illimani, 
towering  in  majesty  9000  feet  above,  adds  a  charm  comparable 


BALSAS,   LAKE   TITICACA 


LA   PAZ,   FROM   THE   HILLS 


GUZCO  TO  LA  PAZ  129 

to  that  which  the  Jungfrau  gives  to  Interlaken.  But  La  Paz 
itself  is  as  high  as  the  shoulders  of  that  glacier-robed  Alpine 
summit ;  an  altitude  which  in  other  regions  signifies  perpetual 
snow  here  bringing  only  a  temperate  clime,  where  flowers 
blossom  in  the  open  throughout  the  year,  and  the  rare  inch  or 
two  of  winter's  snow  quickly  vanishes  in  the  morning's 
sunlight. 

The  railway  down  to  the  city,  by  many  pronounced  impos- 
sible of  accomplishment,  was  opened  in  October,  1905,  through 
the  initiative  and  agency  of  Mr.  T.  Olive  Sheppard,  then  Sup- 
erintendent of  Public  "Works.  The  road,  5y2  miles  long,  has 
an  average  grade  of  six  per  cent  with  curves  on  a  radius  of 
100  meters.  The  power  is  electricity  obtained  from  mond 
gas,  an  explosive  mixture  compounded  of  coal  gas,  steam,  and 
air,  cheaper  than  either  gas  or  steam;  a  consideration  of  im- 
portance where  coal  from  Australia  in  1908  was  selling  at 
retail  for  $50  a  ton. 

At  the  station  are  porters  who  for  modest  fees  will  transport 
to  your  hotel  your  baggage,  both  large  and  small.  Big  trunks 
they  carry  on  their  backs  with  apparent  ease.  Carriages  may 
be  at  hand,  costing  one  ~bolwian,  40  cents ;  or  on  the  other  side 
of  the  station  an  electric  car,  fare  20  centavos,  first  class,  will 
soon  be  passing.  This  will  bring  you  to  the  Hotel  Ghiibert, 
half  a  mile  distant,  the  oldest  and  best  of  the  hostelries  of 
the  city,  unless  a  new  one,  long  promised,  should  be  already 
completed.  20  centavos  is  an  ample  fee  for  the  boy  who  takes 
a  bag  to  the  ear  or  even  to  the  hotel,  and  50  centavos  to  the 
man  who  brings  the  trunk. 

Of  the  early  history  of  Bolivia;  little  is  known.  At  the  time  of 
the  Spanish  invasion  the  country  was  under  the  sway  of  the  Incas. 
These  being  overthrown,  no  resistance  was  here  .offered  to  the  ad- 
vance of  Diego  de  Almagro,  who  chose  this  route  for  his  southward 
march  for  the  conquest  of  Chile.  After  this  unhappy  adventure 
Gonzalo  Pizarro  invaded  the  country;  the  city  of  Chuquisaca  was 
founded  (at  times  called  Chareas,  and  La  Plata),  now  known  as 
Sucre.  Quarrels  among  the  invaders  culminated  in  a  victory  near 
Cuzeo  by  the  Viceroy  Pedro  de  la  Gasea  over  Gonzalo  Pizarro,  who 
was  put  to  death.  As  a  memorial  of  the  peace  thus  secured,  La 
Gasea  ordered  Captain  Alonso  de  Mendoza  to  found  a  city  in  the 
valley  of  Chuquiapu,  where  an  Indian  village  already  existed,  and 


130  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

October  25,  1545,  the  first  anniversary  of  the  battle,  the  foundations 
were  laid  of  a  city  named  Nuestra  Senora  de  La  Paz.  The  city  of 
Potosi  had  been  founded  a  few  months  earlier,  after  the  discovery 
of  the  wonderful  silver  mines  which  soon  made  the  city  and  cerro 
famous  throughout  the  world.  ^ 

The  country  now  known  as  Bolivia,  formerly  Alto  Peru,  was  a 
part  of  the  province  of  New  Toledo  granted  to  Almagro,  who  was 
beheaded  after  his  party  was  defeated  in  a  conflict  with  Pizarro's 
forces  near  Cuzeo,  subsequent  to  his  return  from  his  unfortunate 
expedition  to  Chile.  In  1542  the  Viceroyalty  of  Peru  was  created 
with  authority  over  all  the  Spanish  American  possessions.  Under 
the  Viceroy  were  later  two  Audiendas  Reales,  Royal  Audiences,  of 
Lima  and  of  Charcas,  the  latter  covering  the  former  New  Toledo 
and  having  Jurisdiction  over  the  provinces  of  Tucuman,  Paraguay, 
and  Buenos  Aires.  The  Audiendas  were  supreme  courts  possessing 
also  executive  functions,  and  were  responsible  to  the  Crown.  The 
Audienc&a  of  Chareas,  created  in  1559,  had  its  chief  seat  at  Chu- 
quisaca,  the  site  also  of  the  bishopric  of  Chareas,  and  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  San  Francisco  Xavier,  renowned  in  Spanish  America  for 
its  learning,  and  ranking  with  Salamanca  in  Spain.  La  Paz  became 
a  Cathedral  city  in  1605,  and  Chuquisaca  in  1609  was  made  the  seat 
of  the  archbishopric  of  La  Plata.  Other  cities  were  founded;  ex- 
plorations were  made  east  and  north  of  the  Andes  Mountains;  the 
work  of  christianizing  the  Indians  was  prosecuted  by  the  Jesuit, 
Franciscan,  and  other  padres.  At  the  same  time  great  abuses  were 
practiced  upon  the  natives,  who  both  in  Peru  and  Bolivia  were  com- 
pelled to  work  in  the  mines,  and  suffered  such  hardships  and  cruel- 
ties as  rapidly  to  diminish  their  numbers.  In  the  seventeenth  and 
eighteenth  centuries  there  were  many  struggles  and  conflicts,  chiefly 
between  the  native  born  Americans  of  Spanish  ancestry  and  the 
rulers  who  were  for  the  most  part  Spanish  born;  several  insurrections 
occurring  with  intent  to  throw  off  the  Spanish  yoke.  In  1776  the 
Viceroyalty  of  Buenos  Aires  was  established,  to  which  the  Audiencia 
of  Bolivia  was  transferred.  In  1780  occurred  an  Indian  rising  in- 
stigated and  directed  by  three  brothers  named  Catari,  for  whose  heads 
2000  pesos  each  were  offered  by  the  Audiencia.  Thus  they  were  be- 
trayed. The  Indian  revolt  in  Cuzeo  led  by  Tupac  Amaru  occurring 
about  this  time  incited  the  Bolivian  Indians  to  further  efforts.  The 
Indian  Ayoayo  with  80,000  men  for  three  months  besieged  the  city 
of  La  Paz  until  dispersed  by  an  army  from  Chuquisaca,  The  town 
of  Sorata  was  destroyed,  but  in  the  end,  after  50,000  lives  had  been 
lost  among  the  Spanish  Americans  and  many  more  of  the  Indians, 
they  were  finally  crushed. 

Injustice  and  oppression  Bad  been  the  lot,  not  of  the  Indians  only, 


CUZCO  TO  LA  PAZ  131 

but  of  the  native  born  Spanish  Americans,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that 
especially  from  Peru  and  Bolivia  fabulous  wealth  had  flowed  into 
the  treasury  of  Spain.  The  Revolution  in  North  America  was  a 
warning,  but  the  concessions  granted  were  too  late.  July  16,  1809, 
conspirators  at  La  Paz  deposed  and  imprisoned  the  Governor  and 
proclaimed  the  independence  of  the  country,  organizing  a  Junta  of 
which  one  of  the  leaders  in  the  movement,  Pedro  Domingo  Murillo, 
was  elected  President.  This  insurrection  deserves  especial  notice  as 
the  first  effort  in  South  America  towards  democratic  government. 
A  trained  army  sent  by  the  Viceroy  of  Peru  overcame  the  feeble 
opposition  of  a  few  patriots,  and  Murillo,  January  29,  1810,  per- 
ished on  the  scaffold;  yet  full  of  confidence  he  exclaimed  in  the 
words  of  another,  "The  torch  which  I  have  lighted  shall  never  be 
extinguished."  Within  a  few  months  the  Viceroy  at  Buenos  Aires 
was  deposed  and  an  army  from  Argentina  under  General  Belgrano 
met  and  defeated  the  royalists  on  the  field  of  Suipacha.  From 
this  time  on,  there  were  various  conflicts  in  which  the  royalists 
were  usually  successful;  but  the  patriots,  in  spite  of  serious  de- 
feats, for  years  continued  a  persistent  guerilla  warfare  in  which 
a  large  number  of  their  leaders  perished.  The  arrival  of  General 
San  Martin  with  his  victorious  army  at  Pisco  in  Peru,  and  soxm 
after  the  proclamation  of  independence  at  Lima,  July  28,  1821, 
gave  new  hope  to  the  Bolivians.  The  battle  of  Ayaeueho  December 
9,  1824,  having  ended  Spanish  dominion  in  South  America,  January 
29,  1825,  just  fifteen  years  after  the  first  patriots  suffered  martyr- 
dom in  the  plaza,  the  last  Spanish  authorities  evacuated  La  Paz, 
which  was  occupied  by  the  Independent  Army  of  Alto  Peru  under 
General  Lanza  the  same  day.  The  victorious  army  under  General 
Sucre,  marching  from  Cuzco,  made  a  triumphal  entry,  February  7, 

1825,  in  the  midst  of  wild  rejoicing.    With  General  Sucre  acting  as 
the  prime  organizer  of  the  Eepublic,  the  first  National  Assembly 
met  in  June  at  Chuquisaea.    The  Act  of  Independence  bears  the 
date  of  August  6,  1825;  the  Eepublie  was  named  for  Bolivar,  who 
was  elected  its  first  President,  while  Chuquisaea  was  made  the  capi- 
tal under  the  name  of  Sucre.    Nuestra  SefLora  de  La  Paz  became 
La  Paz  de  Ayaeueho.     General  Bolivar,  on  his  arrival  in  La  Paz 
August  18,  was  greeted  with  unbounded  enthusiasm.    In  November 
at  Sucre  he  was  inaugurated  President,  but  resigned  in  January, 

1826,  to  return  to  lama.     The  troublous  times  which  followed,  con- 
tinuing many  years,  must  be  passed  over,  up  to  the  Chilian  war. 
A  quarrel  arising  over  the  collection  of  an  export  tax  on  nitrate, 
Chile  sent  troops  to  occupy  Antofagasta,  then  Bolivian  territory. 
Peru  having  previously  made  a  secret  treaty  with  Bolivia  joined 
her  in  the  declaration  of  war,  April  5,  1879.    As  the  allies  were  al- 


132  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

together  unprepared,  Chile  was  completely  victorious  and  Bolivia 
lost  what  little  coast  she  had  previously  possessed.    During  the 
last  thirty  years,  however,  internal  dissensions  have  for  the  most 
part  ceased,  and  with  more  stable  government  there  has  been  suc- 
cessful development  of  the  rich  resources  of  the  country.    In  1898 
trouble  arose  over  the  question  of  the  seat  of  government,  sessions 
of  Congress  having  been  held  in  several  cities.     Congress  passed  a 
law  that  Sucre  should  be  the  permanent  residence  of  the  President 
and  Cabinet.    The  people  of  La  Paz  protestbg,  a  Federation  was 
formed    and,    after    several    engagements,    General    Pando,    com- 
mander of  the  revolutionary  f  orees,  gained  a  complete  victory,  with 
the  result  that  La  Paz  was  made  the  real  seat  of  government  al- 
though  Sucre  retains  the  name  of  capital.    General  Pando  was 
elected  President.    During  his   administration   occurred   the   Acre 
boundary  difficulty  settled  by  the  cession  of  considerable  rubber  ter- 
ritory to  Brazil,  in  return  for  which  Brazil  paid  Bolivia  £2,000,000 
to  be  used  in  building  railways,  while  Brazil  further  agreed  to  con- 
struct the  so-called  Madera-Mamore"  railway  around  the  rapids  in 
those  rivers,  thus  giving  to  Bolivia  an  outlet  by  the  Amazon  and 
Para  for  her  own  rubber  districts  and  for  a  large  section  of  her 
territory.    Under  President  Montes  (1904^-1908)  a  treaty  was  made 
with  Chile  according  to  which,  in  addition  to  bestowing  a  subsidy 
and  other  considerations,   Chile  agreed  to  build   a  railway   from 
Arica  to  the  Altos  of  La  Paz,  recently  opened  to  traffic,  and  af- 
fording a  shorter  route  to  the  Pacific  than  those  by  Mollendo  or 
Antofagasta,    During  the  administration  of  President  Eliodoro  Vi- 
llazon  progress  has  continued  in  other  directions  and  especially  in 
the  development  of  railways.    The  road  from  Rio  Mulato  to  Potosi 
has  been  opened  and  that  from  Oruro  to  Cochabamba  will  probably 
be  in  operation  before  the  close  of  1913 ;  thus  these  two  important 
cities  are  brought  into  better  communication  with  the  outside  world. 
The  Madera-Mamore  Railway  is  already  in  service.    President  Vi- 
llazon  is  now  succeeded  by  former  President  Montes. 


CHAPTER  XIV 
THE  CITY  OF  LA  PAZ 

THE  Grand  Hotel  Guilert  is  well  situated  at  a  corner  of  the 
principal  Plaza.  Though,  not  on  the  square,  several  windows 
overlook  it  and  from  many  the  music  of  the  band  concerts 
may  be  heard  on  Sunday  and  Thursday  evenings.  The  hotel 
entrance  is  on  the  ealle  Comercio,  one  of  the  principal  streets 
of  the  city,  running  longitudinally  in  the  valley.  The  side 
windows,  on  a  street  running  down  the  steep  hill,  look  across 
upon  the  side  walls  of  the  Cathedral  which  fronts  upon  the 
Plaza.  The  hotel,  with  two  stories  in  front  and  three  in  the 
rear,  is  an  ancient  structure  several  centuries  old,  with  hand- 
some carvings  on  the  inner  walls.  These  once  surrounded  a 
large  patio,  originally  open  to  the  sky  and  with  a  sloping 
pavement,  which  might  be  entered  from  the  side  street.  In 
1903,  the  patio  was  occasionally  occupied  by  a  drove  of  llamas, 
or  by  men  discharging  freight,  or  with  other  matters;  but 
now,  roofed  and  floored,  it  has  been  converted  into  a  large 
dining-room.  The  cookery  is  a  combination  of  French,  Span- 
ish, and  Indian  styles.  The  hotel  has  a  rather  narrow  entrance 
and  stairway,  and  no  salon  or  parlor  in  which  guests  may  be 
received.  The  chambers,  provided  with  electric  bells  and 
lights,  are  quite  palatial  with  expensive  French  furniture, 
thick  carpets,  canopied  bedsteads  with  embroidered  sheets  and 
splendid  blankets.  The  luxurious  bed,  placed  by  the  door, 
leaves  a  large  space  near  the  window  as  a  drawing-room 
where  callers  may  be  entertained.  "When  a  foreign  minister 
arrived,  tall  and  stately  screens  were  brought  in  to  partition 
off  the  bed  from  the  rest  of  the  apartment.  After  Cuzco  and 
Arequipa,  the  hotel  will  seem  quite  cosmopolitan  and  satis- 
factory, though  the  arrangement  of  bath-rooms  and  toilet  on 
an  inner  patio  leaves  something  to  be  desired.  So  crowded  is 
the  hotel  that  sufficient  accommodations  are  hardly  afforded 

133 


134  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

by  the  main  building  and  two  dependencies,  one  on  the  Plaza 
facing  the  palace,  the  other,  three  stories  high,  on  the  same 
calle  Comercio  three  blocks  nearer  the  station.  To  secure  a 
good  room  or  even  to  be  sure  of  any,  it  is  wise  to  telegraph 
from  Arequipa  or  Cuzco.  Prices  vary  from  7  to  15  bol.  a  day 
for  room  and  board,  8  or  10  being  the  average  fee  except  for 
the  largest  rooms.  Morning  coffee  is  served  in  one's  room, 
cdmuerzo  is  from  11  to  2,  the  crowd  coming  between  12.30 
and  1. 

Another  hotel  nearer  the  station,  kept  by  a  German,  is  said 
to  be  very  neat,  and  good  for  the  money,  the  price  being 
lower.  It  was  rumored  in  1911  that  the  millionaire  mine 
owner,  Senor  Patino,  had  purchased  a  corner  on  this  street 
on  which  to  erect  a  large  up-to-date  establishment.  This  would 
be  a  boon  in  view  of  the  rapidly  increasing  travel.  On  the 
street  floor  of  the  Guibert  is  a  large  cafe,  a  good  part  of  the 
day  and  evening  filled  to  overflowing  with  gentlemen,  both 
natives  and  foreigners,  at  small  tables,  regaling  themselves 
with  a  cocktail  or  some  other  beverage,  discussing  business  or 
polities,  or  shaking  dice,  to  the  serious  neglect,  I  was  told,  of 
the  important  affairs  of  life,  as  is  frequently  the  case  else- 
where. 

The  city  of  La  Paz  (population  80,000)  on  both  sides  of  the 
Chuquiapu  River,  which  flows  at  the  bottom  of  the  canon  in 
a  southeasterly  direction,  has  the  greater  part  on  the  left  bank. 
From  above  it  appears  as  if  on  the  broad  floor  of  a  valley,  but 
later  it  is  seen  that  both  banks  rise  steeply  from  the  stream. 
Thus  while  the  main  streets  running  parallel  to  the  river  have 
but  slight  incline,  those  at  right  angles  are  so  steep  as  to  make 
carriage  driving  almost  impossible.  Both  streets  and  side- 
walks are  narrow,  and  paved  Trith  small  cobblestones,  though 
the  walks  have  also  blocks  of  stone,  alternating  checkerboard 
fashion  with  the  squares  of  cobbles.  So  narrow  are  the  walks 
that  only  two  may  go  abreast,  the  gentlemen  often  stepping 
into  the  gutter  to  allow  a  lady  to  pass.  In  fact  on  the  steep 
ways  many  prefer  the  middle  of  the  street  as  being  less  slip- 
pery, a  safe  enough  place,  as  on  these  one  meets  chiefly  other 
pedestrians  or  llamas.  The  latter  are  one  of  the  main  attrac- 
tions and  charms  of  La  Paz?  troops  of  graceful  animals  occa- 
sionally blocking  the  streets,  bringing  ice  perhaps  from  thei 


CATHEDRAL    AND    GOVERNMENT    PALACE 


HALL   OF  CONGRESS,   MONUMENT  TO   MURILLO 


THE  CITY  OF  LA  PAZ  135 

glaciers  of  lUimani  or  some  nearer  and  invisible  mountain ;  or 
taquia,  the  dung  of  the  llama,  here  the  chief  fuel ;  or  carrying 
away  imported  merchandise  to  Indians  or  others,  dwelling  off 
the  few  lines  of  railway* 

The  multitude  of  Indians  (Aymards,  less  prepossessing  than 
the  Quichuas}  and  of  cholos,  who  together  form  nine-tenths 
of  the  population  of  Bolivia  and  two-thirds  that  of  La  Paz, 
also  gives  a  picturesque  novelty  to  the  place,  attracting  eager 
attention  if  not  admiration  by  the  strangeness  of  their  per- 
sonality and  garb.  The  Indian  men  bearing  loads  or  driving 
herds  of  llamas,  both  apparently  belonging  to  some  remote 
patriarchal  age,  the  women  sitting  in  the  streets  or  squares, 
knitting  as  they  preside  over  the  sale  of  edibles,  knit  goods,  or 
other  wares,  or  handing  out  a  bowl  of  chupe  (soup)  to  a 
patron,  the  cholas  (women  of  the  half-breeds)  in  gay  attire, 
are  a  constant  source  of  interest 

One's  sight-seeing  naturally  begins  with  the  open  square 
close  to  the  hotel,  called  the  Plaza  Murillo  from  the  patriot, 
Pedro  Domingo  Murillo,  executed  here  in  1810.  This,  too,  is 
the  spot  where  independence  was  first  declared  in  1809.  The 
square  has  seen  many  turbulent  episodes.  In  1894  the  existing 
park  was  laid  out.  The  fountain  in  the  center  was  the  work 
of  a  talented  Indian,  Feliciano  Cantula,  in  1855. 

On  the  same  side  of  the  Plaza  as  the  Cathedral  is  the  Gov- 
ernment Palace,  erected  in  1885 ;  an  earlier  structure  having 
been  destroyed  by  fire.  This  contains  the  offices  of  many  state 
officials  and  in  the  upper  story  the  office  and  residence  of  the 
President  and  his  family.  In  October,  1908,  a  grand  ball  was 
here  given  by  President  Montes  in  honor  of  the  Princess  Ar- 
gendona  of  Sucre,  on  which  occasion  the  large  patio  was 
entirely  floored  over  at  the  second  story  to  form  a  ball  room, 
which  with  the  corridors  was  handsomely  decorated  with 
hangings  of  heavy  broadcloth  in  various  colors.  The  affair 
was  altogether  elegant,  the  costumes  of  the  ladies  in  the  latest 
Parisian  modes,  the  refreshments  most  elaborate;  ices,  cakes, 
and  wine  were  served  at  small  tables  throughout  the  evening, 
and  at  two,  a  fine  supper  with  soup,  hot  meats,  roast  beef, 
turkey,  etc.,  delicious  salads,  and  other  viands.  The  dancing, 
which  began  about  eleven,  continued  until  seven  a.  m. 

Across  the  corner  is  the  Hall  of  Congress,  a  fine  new  edifice 


136  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

completed  in  1905,  though  sufficiently  advanced  for  the  inaug- 
uration of  President  Montes  in  1904.  In  addition  to  the 
Chambers  of  the  Senate  and  the  House  of  Deputies,  the  build- 
ing contains  among  other  offices  those  of  the  Minister  of 
Foreign  Relations.  The  Cathedral,  close  to  the  Hotel  G-uibert, 
in  process  of  construction,  is  likely  to  continue  thus  for  many 
years.  In  1835  a  design  was  adopted  of  a  Bolivian  architect, 
Padre  Manuel  Sanauja.  The  foundations  were  laid  in  1843, 
when  stone  cutters  were  imported  from  Europe  to  instruct 
the  Indians  in  cutting  and  polishing  the  stone.  They  proved 
apt  pupils  and  were  soon  qualified  to  continue  the  work,  which 
has,  however,  been  much  delayed  through  troublous  times  and 
the  fact  that  railroads  and  other  projects  for  material  ad- 
vancement seemed  of  greater  importance.  Now,  however,  with 
an  appropriation  of  100,000  bol.  annually,  the  construction 
is  slowly  but  steadily  proceeding  according  to  plans  of  Senor 
Camponoro  adopted  in  1900.  The  structure  when  finished  will 
be  the  largest  and  most  expensive  cathedral  erected  in  South 
America  since  the  Independence,  and  may  be  the  finest  of  any. 
Covering  4000  square  meters  it  will  be  capable  of  seating 
12,000  persons.  Of  the  Grseco-Roman  style,  it  will  have  five 
naves  with  columns  of  polished  stone,  towers  nearly  200  feet 
high,  and  a  dome,  the  top  of  which  will  be  150  feet  above  the 
floor.  Berenguela,  a  native  marble,  will  be  used  for  the  great 
altar. 

Two  blocks  north  of  the  Plaza  is  the'  pro-Cathedral,  the 
church  of  Santo  Domingo,  where  such  services  are  held  as  are 
regarded  as  functions  of  State.  Thus  on  the  day  of  the  fun- 
eral of  Pope  Leo  XIII  in  1903,  a  procession  including  the 
President,  the  Ministers  of  State,  and  other  Bolivian  officials, 
with  members  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps,  all  in  evening  dress, 
the  customary  garb  on  formal  occasions  in  South  America  and 
Europe,  marched  from  the  Palace  to  the  Church  with  a  large 
escort  of  soldiery,  a  regiment  also  lining  the  streets  en  route. 

The  city  contains  twelve  other  churches,  five  public  chapels, 
five  convents,  and  three  monasteries.  The  handsomest  church 
is  that  of  San  Francisco  on  a  plaza  of  the  same  name,  down 
on  a  fairly  level  space  in  the  hollow.  A  church  and  convent 
were  erected  here  in  1547,  but  the  present  edifice  dates  from 
1778.  Ita  facade  of  carved  stone  attracts  attention,  from  its 


THE  CITY  OF  LA  PAZ  137 

excellent  design  and  workmanship.  The  interior  lias  three 
naves  and  eight  altars,  besides  a  high  altar  of  carved  cedar. 
The  convent  with  accommodations  for  two  hundred  at  last  ac- 
counts had  but  fourteen  inmates,  though  recently  recon- 
structed from  a  legacy  left  by  a  rich  lady  of  La  Paz.  The 
convent  contains  one  of  the  largest  libraries  of  Bolivia. 

Besides  several  other  plazas,  either  entirely  paved  or  having 
a  little  green,  there  is  the  usual  Alameda,  nearly  half  a  mile 
long,  which,  like  the  Plaza  Murillo,  has  been  the  scene  of  con- 
flicts. On  the  right  bank  of  the  stream  towards  the  lower  end 
of  the  city,  this  quiet  promenade,  ornamented  with  several 
rows  of  trees,  has  broad  driveways,  a  wide  central  walk  with 
pools  which  swans  adorn,  and  fountains  with  basins  containing 
gold  fish.  At  each  end  of  the  Alameda  are  portals,  of  which 
the  lower,  leading  to  the  Plaza  de  la  Concordia  and  the  Ave- 
nida  Arce,  was  taken  from  a  convent  cloister  and  set  up  here 
in  1828.  -Along  the  Alameda  are  many  new  and  pretty  resi- 
dences in  rather  modern  style,  without  a  central  patio,  as  also 
above  and  beyond,  this  being  a  very  fashionable  and  growing 
section  of  the  city.  The  tints  of  pale  blue,  green,  yellow, 
crushed  strawberry,  etc.,  in  which  the  houses  are  painted,  in 
the  clear  sunlight  and  contrasting  shadows  present  a  gay  and 
pleasing  appearance. 

More  interesting  to  many  than  plaza  or  alameda  is  the 
Market  Place  found  on  the  calle  Mercado,  parallel  to  the 
Comereio,  and  two  blocks  down  the  hill.  Going  down  the 
street  at  the  corner  by  the  G-uibert  and  turning  to  the  left, 
the  entrance  to  the  market,  an  arched  portal,  will  be  found  in 
the  middle  of  the  third  block  on  the  right  hand.  Though  not 
very  noticeable  the  market  place  occupies  the  greater  part  of 
the  square,  the  site  of  the  former  convent  of  San  Augustin, 
The  best  time  for  a  visit  is  as  early  as  possible  on  Sunday 
morning,  when  hundreds  or  thousands  of  Indians  come  in 
from  outlying  districts.  The  adjacent  streets,  as  well  as  the 
market,  are  thronged  with  these  strange  looking  people.  Both 
men  and  women  have  bare  legs  and  feet,  though  some  wear 
sandals.  Their  heads  are  more  carefully  protected  with  woolen 
hood  and  hat.  The  men's  trousers  are' noticeable,  wide  at 
the  pockets  according  to  Spanish  style  at  the  time  of  the 
Conquest,  and  with  a  slit  up  the  back,  showing  white  drawers 


138  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

underneath.  Made  of  dark  cloth  they  are  often  worn  lining 
side  out  to  preserve  them  from  damage  while  wearers  are  at 
work,  when  they  appear  gray.  The  women  wear  several  short 
heavy  skirts,  and  over  woolen  waists  a  shawl  or  two,  in  one  of 
which  a  baby  is  apt  to  be  carried  on  the  back.  The  chola 
women  are  much  gayer  in  attire,  with  many  bright  colored 
woolen  skirts,  red,  green,  blue,  yellow,  one  showing  below  an- 
other, or  with  a  richly  embroidered,  white  under-petticoat, 
these  standing  out  like  a  balloon.  They  generally  wear  a 
jaunty  white  or  gray  hat  resembling  a  derby,  several  shawls, 
often  open-worked  stockings,  and  shoes  with  high  French  heels. 
A  great  contrast  to  these  are  the  Spanish  American  ladies,  in 
the  morning  on  the  way  to  church  or  market  robed  in  black, 
the  black  manta  over  their  heads,  but  when  calling  or  visiting 
attired  in  the  latest  Paris  fashions.  The  gentlemen,  too,  are 
extremely  punctilious  as  to  correct  dress,  appropriate  to  the 
hour  and  the  function. 

"Within  the  market  place  and  on  the  streets  around  are 
women  sitting  by  their  stalls,  in  the  doorways  and  on  the  side- 
walks, selling  their  wares,  dried  and  fresh  fruits,  vegetables, 
hot  soup,  chunos  (dried  potatoes),  cholona  (dried  sheep),  and 
articles  of  almost  every  kind;  shoes,  stockings,  salt,  sugar, 
meat,  coca  leaves,  rather  coarse  native  lace,  or  cheap,  imported, 
machine-made,  funny  little  rag  dolls  in  Indian  garb,  five  or 
ten  centavos  each,  red  beans  which  would  make  a  pretty  neck- 
lace (they  are  not  real  beans),  soft  woolen  mitts,  mittens,  and 
caps,  and  coarse  caps  or  hoods,  with  face  masks.  The  women 
are  always  knitting  (except  at  meal  time)  when  not  employed 
with  a  customer.  People  will  be  found  here  at  any  hour  of  the 
day  and  one  may  go  again  and  again  with  interest ;  the  numer- 
ous babies  and  toddlers,  though  dirty,  add  to  the  picturesque- 
ness  of  the  scene.  The  women  seem  pleasant  and  more  prepos- 
sessing than  the  men.  The  knitted  articles  are  astonishingly 
cheap  and  the  dolls  are  of  a  quaint  ugliness.  Everything  may 
be  found  here  but  flowers,  which  are  sold  in  a  square  above  by 
the  La  Merced  church  on  a  prolongation  of  the  calle  Co- 
mercio.  Sweet  peas,  pansies,  roses,  and  other  flowers  brought 
from  the  valley  below  are  sold  at  a  ridiculously  low  figure. 
A  Bolivian  will  purchase  as  many  as  you  can  carry. 

There  are  many  good  shops  in  La  Paz,  the  dry  goods,  mostly 


STREET   NEAR  THE    MARKET 


IN  THE  CEMETERY  OF  LA  PAZ 


THE  CITY  OE  LA  PAZ  139 

on  the  calle  Comercio  or  the  Mercado;  the  largest  called  El 
Condor,  with  several  branches,  -doing  an  immense  business. 
There  are  book  stores,  banks,  and  all  ordinary  institutions. 
The  house  of  W.  E.  Grace  is  on  the  calle  Mercado  towards  the 
market.  The  Post  Office  is  on  the  calle  Comercio  just  beyond 
the  Palace,  the  office  of  the  Prefect  is  on  the  floor  above.  A 
short  distance  down  the  steep  street  between  is  the  Police 
Station. 

On  the  side  of  Plaza  Murillo  opposite  the  Capitol,  at  the 
upper  corner  is  the  building,  entrance  on  Ingavi,  which  con- 
tains the  Library  of  the  Geographical  Society  and  the  office  of 
Don  Manuel  V.  Ballivian,  geographer  and  statistician,  formerly 
Minister  of  Agriculture,  who  speaks  English  fluently  and  is 
most  courteous  in  giving  information  to  students,  explorers,  or 
investigators  of  the  resources  of  the  country.  The  Geographi- 
cal Society,  of  which  Mr.  Ballivian  is  President,  has  by  its 
publications  and  research  contributed  much  to  the  knowledge 
of  the  country,  which  Mr.  Ballivian  has  himself  extensively 
explored.  He  is  author  and  editor  of  many  valuable  works. 

On  the  first  floor  of  the  same  building,  with  entrance  on  the 
Plaza,  is  the  Museum  of  Natural  History  and  Industrial  Prop- 
aganda,  containing  specimens  of  the  flora,  fauna,  and  great 
mineral  wealth  of  the  country,  ancient  sculpture,  aboriginal 
mummies  found  on  the  plateau,  pottery  of  the  Inca  period  and 
earlier,  and  other  paraphernalia,  as  well  as  curious  examples 
of  modern  textiles,  and  other  work  and  implements  of  the 
civilized  and  savage  Indians. 

Passing  one  block  along  Ingavi  and  turning  to  the  right 
one  will  find  on  the  left  the  Theater,  of  modern  construction, 
recently  remodeled  and  equal  to  the  average  theater  anywhere. 
Entertainments  here  given  are  frequently  subsidized  by  the 
Government;  as,  however  well  patronized,  the  receipts  would 
hardly  be  sufficient  to  pay  a  company  for  the  long  expensive 
journey  from  the  sea  coast.  At  the  corner,  before  turning 
up  the  street,  is  the  Municipal  Library  and  free  reading  room, 
open  day  and  evening,  where,  as  in  all  quarters,  the  inquiring 
stranger  will  receive  the  greatest  courtesy.  On  the  block 
beyond  the  theater 'is  the  University. 

As  in  other  cities  of  the  "West  Coast  there  is  a  Butt  Ring  in 
the  outskirts  where  occasional  fights  are  held  with  skillful 


140  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Spanish  toreadors.  Several  pleasant  walks  may  be  taken  by 
one  who  is  fond  of  Mil  climbing.  A  little  Chapel  at  the  top 
of  the  left  wall  of  the  canon  to  some  may  seem  inviting.  It 
is  an  hour's  walk,  with  suitable  pauses  affording  attractive 
views  of  the  city  and  canon ;  but  the  arrival  is  disappointing, 
for  a  further  though  moderate  slope  cuts  off  the  expected  view 
of  plateau  and  distant  mountains.  How  much  farther  one 
would  have  to  go  to  obtain  this,  I  am  unable  to  state.  Some 
writers  warn  the  stranger  not  to  walk  at  this  altitude  except 
for  short  distances.  It  is  well  to  be  cautious  the  first  day,  espe- 
cially if  there  is  the  slightest  symptom  of  discomfort,  and  at 
any  time  persons  should  avoid  too  rapid  walking,  especially 
uphill,  and  be  careful  not  to  overdo.  This  is  a  great  country 
for  climbing,  its  opportunities  yet  unimproved,  Illimani 
(21,000  feet)  being  the  only  one  of  its  high  mountains  whose 
summit  (by  Sir  Martin  Conway)  has  yet  been  reached.  There 
is  no  better  exercise,  providing  the  recreation  is  wisely  pur- 
sued ;  but  of  course  not  every  one  can  endure  the  altitude  even 
of  La  Paz,  to  say  nothing  of  8000  or  10,000  feet  more. 

A  walk  down  the  valley  may  afford  pleasure,  though  the 
majority  may  prefer  to  employ  a  carriage,  or  a  horse.  On 
foot  he  will  hardly  get  far  unless  taking  a  whole  day.  The 
road  winds  around,  and  the  wall  blocking  the  lower  end  of 
the  canon  is  more  distant  than  it  looks.  It  is  a  delightful  little 
drive  to  Obrajes,  three  miles  distant.  Every  one  should  go 
at  least  so  far,  and  will  then  wish  to  continue.  The  curious 
shapes  of  the  canon  walls,  the  bright  variegated  colors  of  the 
cliffs,  the  road  winding  in  great  curves  down  the  rapidly 
descending  canon,  the  beautiful  green  of  alfalfa  meadows, 
the  pretty  villas  and  gardens,  and  glorious  Illimani  above, 
excite  ever  increasing  admiration.  One  with  plenty  of  time  at 
his  disposal  may  ride  down  the  valley  to  a  hacienda,  Cebollullo, 
at  the  foot  of  Illimani,  enjoying  the  most  magnificent  scenery ; 
but  two  days  would  be  needed  to  go  and  return.  Down  this 
canon  one  may  proceed  to  the  Yungas  Valley,  whence  come 
the  vegetables  and  fruits  for  the  La  Paz  market.  A  railway 
will  some  day  open  up  this  country,  extending  to  Puerto 
Pando  on  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Beni,  whence  one  may 
cross  the  continent  to  Para  by  boat  and  by  the  newly  con- 


THE  CITY  OF  LA  PAZ  141 

structed  Madera  Mamore  Railway,  but  our  tour  does  not  lie 
in  that  direction. 

An  excursion  on  foot  or  horseback  may  be  made  to  the  noted 
gold  mine  Chuquiaguillo,  a  league  from  the  city,  which  in 
the  eighteenth  century  produced  one  hundred  and  twenty-five 
million  dollars  gold.  Here  Indians  were  washing  for  gold 
when  the  Spaniards  arrived  and  here  they  work  still  tinder  a 
German  superintendent,  the  gravel  yielding  about  thirty-five 
cents  gold  a  cubic  foot,  with  an  occasional  nugget.  One  found 
in  1905  contained  45  oz.  of  gold.  It  was  recently  reported 
that  this  property  has  been  purchased  by  Americans,  the  Bo- 
livian Goldfields  Company, 


CHAPTER  XV 
OTHER  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA—ROUTES  TO  THE  SEA 

Tiahuanaco.  All  who  have  an  interest  in  legendary  lore 
and  in  ancient  monuments  of  a  mysterious  past  should  surely 
make  the  excursion  to  Tiahuanaco.  Even  those  who  have  no 
especial  leanings  in  that  direction  cannot  fail  to  be  impressed 
and  may  possibly  be  fascinated  by  these  strange  relics  of  a  by- 
gone age.  Taking  the  morning  train  to  Gruaqui,  one  descends 
at  Tiahuanaco  and  after  a  stay  of  three  or  four  hours  may 
return  to  La  Paz  in  the  evening.  The  real  student  could 
profitably  devote  as  many  days  as  the  ordinary  tourist  would 
hours  to  the  examination  of  the  ruins.  These  are  believed  by 
Sir  Clements  Markham  to  indicate  the  existence  of  a  large 
city,  while  others  think  that  this  was  rather  an  immense  sanc- 
tuary and  never  a  place  of  general  residence.  The  existing 
remains  on  the  broad  plateau,  135  feet  above  Lake  Titieaca, 
from  which  it  is  12  miles  distant,  are  supposed  when  erected 
to  have  been  on  the  shore  of  the  lake.  A  great  terraced 
mound  of  earth,  supported  by  stone  walls,  having  an  area  of 
620  by  450  feet  and  a  height  of  50  feet,  is  called  a  fortress, 
and  also  a  palace.  Long  used  as  a  stone  quarry  for  the  erec- 
tion of  buildings  in  neighboring  towns,  even  in  La  Paz,  60 
miles  distant,  it  is  now  in  an  extremely  dilapidated  condition. 
The  excavations  of  treasure  seekers  as  well  as  of  scientists 
havp  also  contributed  to  its  ruin. 

About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  station  is  a  construc- 
tion, generally  regarded  as  a  sacred  enclosure,  which  has  the 
form  of  a  rectangle,  388  by  445  feet,  marked  by  granite  blocks 
15  feet  apart  and  8  or  10  feet  high,  conspicuous  objects  on 
the  brown  plain,  reminding  of  Stonehenge.  These  monoliths 
are  supposed  to  have  been  part  of  a  wall,  the  spaces  between 
filled  in  with  rough  stones.  A  temple  may  have  stood  within, 
but  of  this  there  are  no  remains.  A  massive  monolithic  gate- 
way, broken  and  apparently  not  in  its  original  position,  may 

142 


-MONOLITHIC    GATEWAY   TIAHUAXACO 


INDIANS    AT    FESTIVAL— TIAHUANACO 


OTHER  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA  143 

once  have  afforded  entrance  to  the  enclosure.  This  great 
piece  of  stone,  13  feet  wide,  7  feet  above  ground  and  3  feet 
thick  was  probably  fractured  by  an  earthquake.  The  curious 
and  elaborate  carvings  on  the  upper  part  of  one  side  have  been 
variously  explained,  but  the  interpretation  endorsed  by  Sir 
Clements  Markham,  long  a  profound  student  of  Peruvian 
antiquities,  is  most  highly  regarded.  In  the  center  is  a 
human  head  supposed  to  represent  the  creator  of  the  universe 
Pachaeamae  or  Viraeocha,  to  which  the  other  figures,  partly 
human  and  some  with  heads  of  condors,  seem  to  offer  adora- 
tion. Three  other  constructions,  one  called  the  hall  of  justice, 
are  remarkable  for  their  extent  and  for  the  Cyclopean  masses 
of  stone.  There  is  abundant  evidence  of  extraordinarily  skill- 
ful masonry  and  of  excellence  in  sculpture.  Many  of  the 
enormous  stones  are  unequaled  in  size  in  any  other  part  of 
the  world  save  by  the  monoliths  of  Egypt  and  some  near 
Cuzco.  One  stone  36  feet  long  and  7  wide  weighs  170  tons. 
These  have  often  ornamental  carving.  A  number  of  statues 
elaborately  decorated  have  been  found  here,  one  of  which 
still  stands  upright  within  the  enclosure.  The  great  age  of 
these  remains  is  unquestioned.  One  theory  is  that  they  date 
from  a  period  before  the  plateau  was  elevated  to  its  present 
position  when  it  enjoyed  a  milder  climate. 

It  is  worth  while  to  go  over  to  the  modern  Indian  village, 
Tiahuanaco.  On  the  plaza  is  a  church,  largely  constructed 
of  stones  taken  from  the  ancient  ruins.  In  front  of  the  church, 
are  two  ancient  and  dilapidated  statues,  long  since  transported 
from  their  original  site.  The  interior  of  this  small  church 
is  of  extraordinary  magnificence,  with  elaborate  gilt  carvings, 
an  altar  of  pure  silver,  and  some  religious  paintings  of  mod- 
erate excellence. 

On  the  16th  of  September  elaborate  festivities  occur,  when 
many  Indians  appear  in  velvet  or  plush  garments,  blue,  pink, 
or  green,  embroidered  with  gold  or  silver,  wearing  masks, 
black,  white,  or  yellow,  and  elaborate  feather  head  dresses. 
Pipes  and  drums,  other  wind  instruments,  and  wooden  rattles 
make  plenty  of  noise  if  not  music.  Some  men  are  dressed 
to  represent  devils,  with  horns  and  tail ;  others,  animals,  as  a 
sheep  or  a  green  turtle.  The  finest  suits  cost  each  as  much 
as  $200  gold.  At  Sorata  town  a  still  more  elaborate  festival 


144  THE  SOUTH  A3IEBIGAN  TOUE 

occurs  at  the  same  period,  lasting  for  four  or  five  days. 
Gorgeous  feather  head  dresses  may  be  seen,  and  fans  which 
could  not  be  purchased  for  $75.  The  execution  of  the  Inca 
Atahuallpa  is  here  represented  with  mourning  by  the  Indians. 
These  festivals  are  all  accompanied  or  concluded  by  drunken 
orgies.  In  La  Paz,  August  15,  1903,  occurred  somewhat  sim- 
ilar but  milder  festivities,  Indians  in  costume  and  dances. 

Sorata.  One  who  is  fond  of  horseback  riding  and  not 
afraid  of  a  little  discomfort  might,  with  from  five  to  seven 
days  to  spare,  enjoy  an  expedition  to  the  town  of  Sorata. 
This  city  of  8000  or  10,000  inhabitants  is  situated  about  a 
hundred  miles  north  of  La  Paz  in  a  beautiful  valley  at  the 
foot  of  the  mountain  of  the  same  name,  better  called  by 
the  euphonius  Indian  appellation,  Illampu.  In  1911  a  dili- 
gence or  covered  wagon  with  four  horses  twice  a  week -made 
the  trip  by  a  fair  road  over  the  plain  to  Achacachi,  perhaps 
70  miles  distant.  The  diligence  sets  out  at  a  very  early  hour, 
six  or  half  past,  making  a  rather  long  day.  From  Achacachi 
to  Sorata  town  it  is  a  ride  of  from  six  to  nine  hours  according 
to  the  animals  provided.  These  must  be  engaged  in  advance 
in  La  Paz  and  probably  sent  ahead  to  meet  one  there,  in 
which  case  it  is  obviously  cheaper,  though  more  tiresome, 
to  go  on  horseback  all  the  way.  If  this  method  of  travel 
is  decided  upon,  or  indeed  the  other,  an  arriero  must  be  en- 
gaged to  provide  saddle  animals  and  to  take  care  of  them, 
being  paid  somewhat  in  advance.  Unless  he  receives  a  sum 
to  bind  the  bargain  and  to  pay  his  preliminary  expenses, 
whatever  he  may  promise,  he  is  likely  never  to  be  seen  again. 
But  having  accepted  money,  he  generally  carries  out  the  bar- 
gain, though  a  written  contract  is  desirable.  An  arriero  once 
agreed  with  me  to  furnish  four  animals,  two  saddle,  one  of 
these  for  himself,  and  two  baggage  animals  for  eight  ~bol.  a 
day  for  all,  he  paying  the  expenses  for  his  own  food  and  the 
animals ;  but  it  might  cost  double  that  now.  -  Much  depends 
on  chance  and  ability  at  bargaining.  If  making  the  journey 
on  horseback  one  should  at  least  take  the  early  train  to  the 
alto  arranging  in  advance  for  the  animals  to  meet  him  above. 
Setting  out  from  there  promptly,  a  good  horseman  with  first- 
rate  animals  might  reach  Guarina  or  even  Achacachi  the 
same  evening  and  from  either  place  go  on  to  Sorata  the  next 


OTHER  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA  145 

day.  Soon  after  leaving  the  Alto  Station  all  traces  of  l!?e 
disappear  save  what  is  met  upon  the  road,  Indians  with  llamas, 
burros,  etc.  The  brown  plain  shows  no  signs  of  cultivation, 
being  thickly  covered  with  stones.  No  village  or  hut  is 
passed  for  hours.  But  the  great  peaks  seen  from  slowly 
varying  angles  are  a  continual  source  of  enjoyment.  A 
splendid  imposing  mountain,  Huaina  Potosi  or  Cacaaca,  about 
21,000  feet,  with  tin  mines  on  its  lower  slopes,  affords  an 
opportunity  for  a  difficult  first  ascent.  The  tambo,  Cocuta, 
should  be  reached  in  time  for  almuerzo;  at  the  very  least, 
Machacamarea  for  the  night :  better  Guarina,  if  possible.  If 
one  lodges  at  Machacamarea  one  must  spend  the  next  night 
at  Achacachi  and  go  the  third  day  to  Sorata.  It  is  desirable, 
even  necessary,  to  take  blankets  for  the  night,  and  to  provide 
in  the  alforjas  (saddle  bags),  a  supply  of  chocolate,  raisins, 
etc.,  perhaps  canned  meat  and  crackers.  At  Cocuta,  and  the 
other  places,  meals  are  provided,  soup,  eggs,  beefsteak,  coarse 
bread,  and  tea,  but  between  Achacaehi  and  Sorata  there  is  no 
place  for  luncheon ;  and  some  chocolate,  etc.,  will  come  in  very 
well  the  first  day.  Except  at  Achaeachi  no  bed  will  be  found 
better  than  a  couch  of  adobe,  but  with  blankets  a  hard  bed  is 
no  harm.  I  have  heard  dire  tales  of  the  insect  life  which  in- 
fests some  such  places,  but  in  my  own  considerable  experience, 
I  never  found  anything  worse  than  fleas  and  not  many  of  them. 
The  immense  snow  fields  of  Illampu  come  into  view  soon  after 
leaving  Coeuta.  Before  reaching  Guarina  there  are  glimpses 
of  Lake  Titieaca.  Between  Achacachi  and  Sorata  the  Hua- 
llata  pass  is  crossed  at  a  height  of  14,000  feet.  This  is  a  big 
buttress  of  Illampu,  from  the  top  of  which  one  has  a  splendid 
view  of  the  enormous  mountain  massif  close  at  hand,  with 
its  several  summits  all  from  this  side  seeming  absolutely  un- 
climbable.  Descending  towards  Sorata  attention  is  divided 
between  the  tremendous  clifis  of  Illampu  on  the  right  and  the 
romantic  Mapiri  Valley  below.  The  town,  Sorata,  at  an  alti- 
tude of  8000  feet,  has  a  charmingly  picturesque  location  on  a 
terrace  near  the  head  of  the  valley,  among  trees,  shrubs,  and 
fragrant  flowers,  in  striking  contrast  to  the  bare,  bleak,  brown 
plain  above.  On  one  side  the  grim  walls  and  glittering  sum- 
mits of  Illampu  rise  nearly  14,000  feet  (the  height  of  the 
mountain  being  over  21,000),  contrasting  sharply  with  the 


146  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR  - 

bluish  purple  tints  down  the  steeply  enclosed  gorge  opposite. 
At  no  distant  day  electric  cars  will  cross  the  mountain  ridge, 
and  this  charming  town  will  be  regularly  included  in  the 
fashionable  tours  of  South  America.  Sorata  now  has  a  fair 
hotel,  as  it  is  the  headquarters  for  several  rubber  companies 
which  conduct  the  industry  on  the  lower  eastern  slope  of  the 
Andes,  and  for  many  miners  who  seek  placer  deposits,  or 
the  veins  above  them,  also  on  the  eastern  side.  Any  one 
with  the  spirit  of  the  explorer  would  find  it  a  most  interesting 
trip  to  make  the  circuit  of  the  mountain :  not  a  difficult  task, 
but  probably  never  yet  accomplished  by  a  white  person.  To 
the  mountaineer,  Illampu  still  affords  opportunity  for  a 
splendid  first  ascent,  Miss  Peck  in  1904  being  obliged  to  turn 
back  in  good  weather  and  a  fine  condition  of  the  mountain  at 
about  20,500  feet  simply  because  her  companions  refused  to 
advance ;  while  Conway  in  1898  retreated  from  a  higher  point 
on  account  of  dangerous  conditions  of  the  snow.  With  Swiss 
guides  the  ascent  should  be  easily  made,  or  without  them  by 
experts  like  the  conquerors  of  Mt.  McKinley,  Parker  and 
Browne. 

Train  from  La  Paz  Wednesday  at  4.15  p.m.  arrives  at  Ariea 
Thursday,  1.40  p.  m.     Sleeping1  cars. 

La  Paz  to  Ariea.  At  La  Paz,  if  not  earlier,  decision  must 
be  made  as  to  the  route  in  leaving  this  remarkable  city.  At 
present  two  are  offered  besides  that  by  which  we  have  come ; 
one  by  Ariea,  the  other  by  Antofagasta.  If  one  is  averse  to 
a  long  railroad  journey  and  is  not  eager  to  see  other  Bolivian 
cities,  Oruro,  Potosi,  Cochabamba,  he  will  prefer  the  Ariea 
road,  250  miles,  by  which  trains  were  expected  to  descend  from  * 
La  Paz  in  twelve  hours  to  the  sea,  and  the  upward  journey 
was  to  occupy  sixteen.  On  account  of  the  steep  grade,  the 
rack-rail  system  is  employed  on  one  stretch  for  a  distance  of 
25  miles.  To  render  harmless  the  rapid  change  in  atmospheric 
pressure,  in  ascending  14,000  feet  in  eight  or  ten  hours,  a  spe- 
cial ear-chamber  was  planned  to  contain  compressed  air  of  the 
density  at  sea  level.  The  difference  in  temperatures  is  greater 
than  by  the  other  routes.  In  winter  it  may  be  below  -0  Far.  at 
the  summit,  and  a  few  hours  later  at  Ariea  it  may  be  86°, 
though  probably  less  if  arriving  at  evening.  Parlor  and  sleep- 


.   ILLAMPU,    21,750   FT.   FROM   THE   PLATEAU,    13,000   FT. 


SORATA    TOWN 


OTHER  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA  147 

ing  cars  are  provided  and  as  these  are  to  be  heated  there 
should  be  no  trouble  on  that  score.  Having  come  up  com- 
fortably one  is  not  likely  to  be  troubled  going  down.  If  in- 
clined to  see  a  mining  town  one  may  branch  off  to  Corocoro, 
six  miles  from  the  main  line,  a  place  of  about  15*000  people, 
long  famous  for  its  mines  of  copper  and  tin.  The  copper 
mines  have  been  called  the  richest  in  South  America.  The 
lodes  are  in  a  sandstone  formation  in  fine  grains  through  the 
matrix.  After  grinding  and  concentration  a  product  results, 
85  per  cent  pure.  The  Arica  road  has  its  own  prolongation 
from  Viaeha  to  the  Altos  and  city  of  La  Paz,  by  the  route 
followed  a  distance  of  22  miles. 

The  Jamiraya  Canon.  To  the  traveler  in  search  of  novelty 
outside  the  beaten  track,  and  to  the  scientist,  the  route  by  way 
of  Arica  affords  a  chance  to  visit  one  of  nature's  wonders, 
the  existence  of  which  is  unknown  to  most  Bolivians,  as  well 
as  to  the  rest  of  the  world.  This  is  a  remarkable  gorge  called 
the  Jamiraya  Canon,  of  which  I  received  definite  information 
from  two  English  scientists  who  had  just  visited  it.  In 
the  Lluta  Valley  some  distance  back  of  Arica,  it  is  a  few  miles 
south  of  the  railway  between  km.  92  and  132  of  the  line.  It 
is  best  visited  from  Arica  on  account  of  the  necessity  for 
arranging  in  advance  to  be  met  by  animals  at  the  station 
Moleno,  the  terminus  of  a  branch  line  54  tans,  from  Arica. 
The  first  bivouac  may  be  made  in  Cata  27  kms.  distant,  from 
which  point  a  day's  ride  with  a  steep  climb  will  lead  to 
Socoroma,  where  night's  lodging  may  be  obtained  at  the  vil- 
lage store.  From  here  one  may  ride  down  into  the  canon  at 
Jamiraya  or  to  Ancolacalla,  returning  after  a  night  or  two 
at  the  bottom.  Both  places  are  desirable  to  visit,  but  it  is 
a  day's  journey  from  one  to  the  other,  as  it  is  necessary  to 
go  to  the  top  and  come  down  again.  The  finer  scenery  is 
at  Ancolacalla  near  which  is  a  beautiful  waterfall.  It  is 
said  that  the  walls  of  the  canon  rival  if  they  do  not  surpass 
those  of  the  Yosemite,  being  six  or  seven  thousand  feet  in 
height,  often  very  steep,  the  angle  varying  from  45  to  90°. 
At  the  bottom  the  canon  in  places  is  but  two  or  three  meters 
wide,  and  at  the  top  from  a  few  hundred  feet  to  possibly  a 
mile.  At  Jamiraya  the  ruins  of  huts  add  a  peculiar  interest. 
The  walls,  which  are  of  varied  and  beautiful  colors,  are 


148  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

chiefly  volcanic  rock,  with  some  granite  on  the  floor.  Water 
should  be  carried,  as  that  at  the  bottom  of  the  gorge  is  bad. 
Few  covers  are  needed  as  in  the  depths  the  weather  is  warm. 

Other  Bolivian  Cities.  If  more  time  can  be  allotted  to 
Bolivia,  a  week  or  two  may  be  agreeably  spent  in  visiting  the 
cities  of  Coehabamba,  Potosi,  and  even  Sucre,  though  that  is 
more  remote.  The  newly  constructed  railway  125  miles  in 
length,  if  now  open  from  Oruro  to  Coehabamba,  will  make  the 
latter  easily  accessible.  This,  called  the  Garden  City  of  Bo- 
livia, was  founded  in  1574  in  a  beautiful  valley  on  the  east 
side  of  the  mountains,  here  called  the  Royal  Range.  Much 
wealth,  culture,  and  refinement  is  here  manifest,  as  well  as  in 
Sucre,  though  both  cities  have  been  so  remote  from  the  rest 
of  the  world. 

Coehabamba  with  its  suburbs  has  a  population  of  40,000  or 
more;  it  boasts  of  six  pretty  plazas,  adorned  with  trees  and 
flowers,  and  an  Alameda  with  five  divisions,  a  fashionable 
driveway.  There  are  handsome  public  buildings  and 
churches;  but  the  scenery  and  climate  are  the  chief  attrac- 
tions, land  a  complete  recompense  for  the  railway  journey 
from  Oruro. 

Potosi,  a  name  much  more  familiar  on  account  of  the  almost 
fabulous  wealth  of  which  it  has  been  the  source,  deserves  a 
visit  on  very  different  grounds.  Not  for  its  delightful  cli- 
mate, smiling  skies,  and  surroundings  of  placid  beauty,  but 
for  its  historic  associations,  the  remains  of  colonial  grandeur, 
and  for  its  impressive  if  more  gloomy  scenery.  From  Rio 
Mulato,  130  miles  beyond  Oruro,  a  railway  has  been  recently 
built  to  this  ancient  city  105  miles  distant.  In  1545  it  was 
founded,  after  the  discovery  of  the  wonderful  silver  mines, 
which  according  to  a  moderate  estimate  have  yielded  about 
four  billion  dollars,  another  writer  says  one  billion,  up  to  the 
present  time.  It  is  related  that  one  man  paid  no  less  than  fif- 
teen million  dollars  as  tax  on  the  production  of  his  mine,  one- 
fifth  being  supposed  to  go  to  the  crown.  It  is  said  that  7000 
mines  have  been  opened  in  the  Cerro,  the  hill  back  of  the 
town,  700  of  which  are  being  worked  for  silver  and  tin  to-day. 
Great  extravagance  naturally  accompanied  the  production  of 
great  wealth,  and  many  stories  are  told  of  the  expenditure  and 
display  of  riches  in  the  early  period.  At  one  time  the  city  had 


OTHER  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA  149 

a  population  of  150,000,  now  dwindled  to  about  25,000.  It 
contains  many  interesting  ruins  of  colonial  palaces  and 
churches,  including  a  finely  carved  tower  of  the  old  Jesuit 
church,  notable  carved  doorways  of  San  Lorenzo,  the  palace 
of  Don  Jose  de  Quiroz,  and  others.  The  Plaza  Pichincha 
contains  a  handsome  monument  to  the  Independence,  and  is 
bordered  by  several  public  buildings,  the  City  Hall,  and  the 
Piehincha  College.  A  Public  Library  and  Museum  are  of 
interest,  still  more  the  great  Casa  de  Moneda  or  Mint  cover- 
ing two  blocks. 

A  visit  to  the  top  of  the  famous  Cerro  may  be  made  on 
horseback.  A  splendid  view  is  enjoyed  from  the  summit.  Of 
extreme  interest  are  the  great  artificial  lakes  on  the  slopes, 
built  by  the  Spaniards  to  furnish  a  constant  water  supply 
for  the  working  of  the  mines.  The  construction  of  the  thirty- 
two  lakes  consumed  nearly  fifty  years,  the  largest  being  3 
miles  in  circumference  and  about  30  feet  deep.  Two  of  them 
are  at  an  altitude  of  16,000  feet.  Each  is  surrounded  by  five 
sets  of  walls,  all  together  about  30  or  40  feet  thick.  The  mines 
are  by  no  means  exhausted  and  with  the  opening  of  the  rail- 
way, mining  operations  will  doubtless  be  largely  increased. 

Sucre.  A  coach  road  100  miles  long  leads  from  Potosi  to 
Sucre,  the  nominal  capital  of  the  Republic,  which  will  soon 
be  connected  by  rail  with  the  region  of  the  west.  The  city, 
pleasantly  located  among  the  hills  at  an  altitude  of  10,000 
feet,  is  noted  for  its  fine  climate  which  must  certainly  seem 
agreeable  to  a  resident  of  the  plateau  above.  In  fact  many 
of  the  wealthy  mine  owners  of  Potosi  in  former  days,  if  not 
at  the  present  time,  made  their  homes  here,  where  life  is 
much  more  enjoyable.  Made  the  capital  of  Bolivia  in  1826 
it  still  has  the  name,  though  now  it  is  the  seat  only  of  the 
Supreme  Court  and  of  the  Archiepiseopal  See ;  the  Legislative 
and  Executive  Departments  of  Government  being  at  La  Paz. 
The  Legislative  Palace  of  Sucre  with  handsomely  decorated 
halls  still  remains,  there  is  a  stately  new  Government  Palace,  a 
Palace  of  Justice,  the  University  of  San  Francisco  Xavier, 
and  other  important  buildings.  Among  the  churches,  the 
Metropolitan  Cathedral  is  the  richest  in  Bolivia.  The  Virgin 
of  Guadalupe,  an  image  of  solid  gold,  with  its  rich  adornment 
of  jewels,  is  said  to  be  worth  a  million.  Among  the  nine 


150  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

plazas,  that  of  the  25  de  Mayo  has  a  special  mark  of  distinction 
in  the  fact  that  it  has  two  streams,  one  on  each  side,  one  of 
which  flowing  northward  joins  the  Mamore  so  reaching  the 
Amazon,  while  the  other  turning  southeast  goes  on  to  the 
Pilcomayo  and  at  last  to  the  estuary  of  La  Plata. 

One  who  sees  only  the  plateau  region  of  Bolivia  knows 
but  a  small  part  of  the  country ;  the  section  east  of  the  Andes, 
now  becoming  accessible,  is  far  more  attractive  and  within  a 
half  century  may  have  the  larger  part  of  the  population. 

Prom  La  Paz  to  Antof agasta.  The  remaining  route  from 
La  Paz  to  the  sea  will  be  followed  by  those  who  have  visited 
any  of  the  three  cities  last  mentioned,  the  old  road  by  way  of 
Oruro  to  the  southern  port,  Antofagasta,  though  not  until 
1908  was  the  railway  opened  between  Oruro  and  Viaeha. 
Many  in  the  past  have  groaned  over  the  journey  which  for- 
merly involved  two  days  by  diligence  to  Oruro  and  three  by 
rail  to  Antofagasta,  but  since  the  introduction  of  sleeping 
cars  on  the  old  section  and  the  completion  of  the  new  the  trip 
may  be  made  in  comfort  and  even  with  pleasure  in  48  hours. 
Within  the  year  the  road  has  been  prolonged  from  Viaeha 
down  to  La  Paz,  another  great  improvement. 

Except  for  the  fine  view  of  Illimani  on  the  left  in  the: 
early  part  of  the  journey,  the  ride  to  Oruro  is  of  no  great 
interest.  Some  tall  mud  built  piers  may  excite  curiosity: 
a  few  remaining  from  those  erected  three  centuries  ago  which 
t  formerly,  it  is  said,  marked  the  entire  route  from  Lima  to 
Potosi.  Before  reaching  Oruro,  a  ride  of  about  seven  hours, 
a  snow-crowned  volcanic  peak  may  be  seen  at  the  southeast, 
Sajama,  with  an  alleged  altitude  of  22,700  feet.  A  possibility 
is  therefore  presented  of  its  overtopping  Aconcagua,  or  like 
Coropuna  turning  out  1000  feet  lower. 

At  a  station  called  Patacamaya  a  halt  is  made  for  almuerzo. 
Strange  to  say,  the  restaurant,  where  a  fair  meal  is  served, 
is  kept  by  an  American  and  his  wife  who  have  been  living 
there  about  twenty  years.  The  gentleman  remarked  that  he 
was  contented,  doing  well,  and  had  no  desire  to  return  to 
the  States.  Fortunate  it  is  that  all  have  not  the  same  tastes, 
some  enjoying  the  warm  tropics,  some  the  desert,  some  the 
cool  plateau,  some  happy  only  in  large  cities,  and  others  whom 
the  solitary  places  please.  Many  who  go  down  to,  gngage  in 


INDIANS    TRANSPORTING   FREIGHT 


PLAZA    AND    GOVERNMENT    PALACE,    ORURO 


OTHER  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA  151 

railroad  construction,  to  work  in  mines  or  smelter,  or  even 
to  fill  office  positions  in  cities,  soon  become  tired  and  return ; 
others  are  fascinated  with  the  life,  being  successful,  and  per- 
sons of  more  importance  than  they  would  be  at  home,  and  they 
are  glad  to  settle  permanently  in  those  countries. 

Oruro  is  an  important  mining  town  of  about  20,000  people, 
with  a  very  good  hotel,  the  Union,  facing  the  pretty  Plaza. 
Arriving  on  Wednesday  or  Saturday  at  Oruro,  one  may  the 
same  evening  at  7.30  take  the  express  train  for  Antofagasta,  a 
ride  of  36  hours.  The  plateau  seems  rather  dreary  and  only 
those  who  have  an  interest  in  mining  matters  will  care  to  stay 
over.  The  various  mines  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city  produce 
both  silver  and  tin.  There  are  many  foreign  residents 
with  several  clubs  and  life  is  not  so  dismal  as  may  at  first 
glance  appear,  although  the  climate  at  this  altitude  of  12,500 
feet  in  the  exposed  position  on  the  plain  is  a  trifle  raw.  The 
Government  Palace  and  the  University  building  face  the 
Plaza,  and  the  city  boasts  of  a  theater,  a  public  library 
and  a  mineralogieal  museum,  as  well  as  the  usual  churches, 
hospitals,  and  schools.  Oruro  was  noted  during  the  colonial 
period  as  next  to  Potosi  in  the  richness  and  production  of  its 
mines  and  in  1678  is  said  to  have  had  76,000  inhabitants. 
In  the  immediate  vicinity  are  half  a  dozen  mines,  formerly 
great  silver  producers,  but  now  worked  chiefly  though  not 
entirely  for  tin.  The  San  Jose  mine,  two  miles  from  the 
town,  several  years  ago  was  yielding  $55,000  a  month  in 
tin  and  silver.  It  is  an  interesting  place  to  visit,  employ- 
ing 1000  or  more  people  and  equipped  with  the  best  of  modern 
machinery.  There  are  workings  1000  feet  deep.  The  Soeavon 
de  la  Yirgen,  nearer  the  city,  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  Bolivia. 
In  all  four  provinces  of  this  Department  are  rich  tin  mines. 
The  ore  is  treated  by  grinding  and  concentration,  the  product 
exported  averaging  about  64  per  cent  tin.  Copper  also  is 
found,  and  farther  south  borax,  and  metals  of  almost  every 
kind!. 

For  the  through  journey  to  Antofagasta,  staterooms  should 
be  engaged  in  advance  at  La  Paz  and  in  the  best- possible  car; 
as  I  was  informed  that  there  was  considerable  difference. 
Some  persons  complain  about  everything  and  I  had  heard 
much  of  the  discomfort  of  the  journey.  But  the  aceommoda- 


152  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tions  which  I  enjoyed  were  decidedly  superior  to  those  of  an 
ordinary  Pullman  and  I  never  experienced  a  more  comfort- 
able railway  ride.    The  road  is  of  very  narrow  gauge,  2% 
feet,  so  that  an  aisle  passes  along  one  side  of  the  car  with 
staterooms  in  a  row  on  the  other.    In  these  the  berths  are  not 
crosswise  of  the  car  as  in  Argentina  but  lengthwise.    My 
room  had  two  very  comfortable  leather  covered  armchairs, 
facing  each  other,  on  which  the  berth  was  later  arranged  with 
none  above  it.    A  wash-basin  with  running  water  was  at  the 
side,  a  small  mirror,  and  several  nails  on  which  to  hang  cloth- 
ing.   In  a  dining-car  good  meals,  dinner  and  almuerzo  were 
served  at  a  fair  price,  morning  coffee  in  one's  own  stateroom. 
Traveling  from  Oruro  at  night  one  misses  the  sight  of  Lake 
Poopo.    Poopo  is  a  curious  shallow,  salt,  and  turbid  lake  with 
no  visible  outlet,  fed  by  the  Desaguadero  River  from  Lake 
Titicaca.    Although  24  by  53  miles  in  extent  it  is  at  most 
but  9  feet  deep,  often  less  than  5,  and  seems  to  be  shrink- 
ing.   In  this  dry  air  and  strong  sunshine  the  water  may  in 
time  disappear,  leaving  only  a  bed  of  salt.    Uyuni,  from  which 
the  railway  is  now  being  continued  to  Tupiza,  125  miles  be- 
yond on  the  Pan  American  route  to  Argentina,  is  also  passed 
in  the  night.    From  Tupiza  it  is  hardly  60  miles  to  La  Quiaca 
which  was  reached  by  the  Argentine  Railway  several  years 
ago.    A  few  miles  from  Uyuni  are  the  Pulacayo  and  Huan- 
chaca  mines  which  have  produced  within  the  last  quarter  cen- 
tury about  5000  tons  of  silver,  thus  taking  rank  as  the  second 
silver  district  in  the  world  (the  first  is  Broken  Bow,  Aus- 
tralia).   Electricity  is  here  the  motor  power;  Corliss  engines 
render  service;  several  thousand  men  and  women  are  em- 
ployed, the  latter  sorting  ore  with  wonderful  accuracy.    The 
day  following  is  spent  among  the  desert  mountains.     The 
hills  are  red,  yellow,  white,  and  gray,  dotted  with  black  cin- 
ders.   Volcanoes  are  numerous,  mostly  extinct  but  showing 
perfect  cones  against  the  blue  of  the  sky.    Large  level  sheets 
of  saline   material   are   frequent.     Some   jagged   hills   have 
streaks,  blood-red  or  chrome-yellow.    The  volcano  San  Pedro, 
17,170  feet  may  be  smoking.    From  a  smaller  cone,  Poruna,  at 
its  side,  stretches  a  great  stream  of  lava,  like  a  glacier,  half  a 
mile  wide  and  several  long,  through  which  in  a  cutting  the 
railroad  passes..    Just  before  dark,  close  to  the  jConchi  station. 


OTHER  REGIONS  OF  BOLIVIA  153 

the  train  crosses  a  viaduct  336  feet  above  the  Loa  River,  more 
than  twice  as  high  as  the  celebrated  Forth  Bridge.  It  is  a 
graceful  steel  structure  with  six  lattice  girder  spans  of  80 
feet  each,  on  steel  towers.  Early  the  second  morning  one 
arrives  at  Antofagasta. 


CHAPTER  XVI 
THE  CHILIAN  COAST— ARICA  TO  VALPARAISO 

Arica.  Arriving  at  Ariea  by  sea,  or  departing  as  well,  one 
may  observe  in  great  white  letters  on  the  rocky  Morro,  Vive 
Battalion  No.  4,  commemorating  the  Chilian  victory  with  its 
massacre  of  Peruvians,  June  7,  1880.  The  1700  Peruvians 
here  stationed,  whose  cannon  were  directed  towards  the  sea, 
suffered  an  assault  in  the  rear  from  4000  Chilians  who  had 
landed  at  night  several  miles  below.  Short  of  small  arms  and 
ammunition,  after  an  heroic  defense  for  one  hour,  the  com- 
mander, Col.  Bolognesi,  perished  having  used  his  last  cart- 
ridge, and  many  soldiers  leaped  to  the  rocks  by  the  sea,  who 
preferred  this  death  to  having  their  throats  cut  by  the  Chil- 
ians. Others  were  crowded  off  by  Chilian  bayonets,  and 
for  months  the  bodies  were  seen  below.  No  prisoners  were 
taken,  the  entire  garrison  of  1700  being  slaughtered. 

The  harbor,  one  of  the  best  south  of  Callao,  is  called  by 
one  writer  the  emerald  gem  of  the  "West  Coast,  on  account  of 
its  green  trees  and  other  verdure.  The  line  of  railway  may 
be  seen  among  the  cliffs,  and  a  great  cross  on  the  highest  hill- 
top. The  town  is  called  by  one  writer  very  squalid,  by  an- 
other a  neat,  attractive  place  in  comparison  with  most  of  the 
port  cities,  the  houses  of  various  colors,  blue,  green,  orange, 
etc.,  many  with  arched  entrances  affording  pleasing  views  of 
an  inner  patio.  On  account  of  earthquakes  the  buildings 
are  chiefly  of  one  story,  many  of  corrugated  iron.  The  most 
noted  of  the  'quakes  was  that  of  1868  when  two  United  States 
frigates  were  in  the  harbor.  One  of  these,  the  Freedoma, 
was  lost  with  all  on  board ;  the  other,  the  Wateree,  by  a  wave 
60  feet  high,  was  carried  over  houses  a  mile  inland,  suffering 
a  loss  of  half  the  crew.  The  ship  there  became  the  home  of 
-several  Indian  families,  until  the  nest  earthquake  and  wave 
carried  it  back  to  the  beach  without  doing  injury  to  the  oc- 

154 


THE  CHILIAN  COAST  155 

cupants.  Barely  from  the  harbor  may  be  had  a  beautiful 
sunset  view  of  snow-crowned  Mt  Taeora,  19,000  feet,  though 
other  mountains  are  frequently  seen.  In  this  port  Hernandp 
Pizarro  built  ships  for  the  invasion  of  Chile.  On  the  broad 
beach  is  a  prehistoric  cemetery  with  embalmed  mummies,  said 
to  be  equal  to  those  of  Egypt.  Some  of  the  eyes  are  translu- 
cent with  a  rich,  amber  tint,  which  scientists  say  are  of  squid 
or  cuttle-fish  here  numerous?  substituted  for  the  eyes  of  the 
dead.  It  is  said  that  when  some  of  these  were  sent  to  Tif- 
fany's in  New  York  to  be  polished,  the  workmen  suffered  a 
violent  irritation  of  the  eyes,  lips,  nostrils,  and  throat. 
Though  all  recovered,  the  work  was  not  resumed.  An  analy- 
sis showed  animal  matter  with  saltpeter  and  unknown  miner- 
als. 

It  is  believed  that  along  here  is  a  subterranean  outlet  of 
Lake  Poopo,  as  the  fresh  water  fish  of  Lake  Titicaca,  peecajay, 
are  caught  in  the  ocean,  and  driftwood  of  the  mountain  vege- 
tation appears.  Formerly  Arica  was  a  great  market  for 
vicuna  skins,  which  were  brought  down  from  the  interior, 
but  their  number  has  now  greatly  diminished.  A  highway 
constructed  by  the  Incas  1000  years  ago,  called  the  camno 
redly  has  been  in  use  ever  since,  the  Bolivians,  even  after  the 
construction  of  the  railroad  to  Mollendo,  still  using  it  to 
bring  down  ore  by  means  of  llamas  and  burros  and  to  carry  up 
supplies.  The  new  railroad  may  not  cause  a  complete  disuse 
of  the  old  route,  as  the  carriage  of  freight  by  a  road  of  so 
heavy  grade  is  likely  to  be  expensive. 

Tacna,  38  miles  distant,  capital  of  the  province,  connected 
by  rail  with  Ariea,  is  a  pretty  and  a  larger  city,  worthy  a 
visit.  The  prosperity  of  this  section  has  been  delayed  by 
the  friction  and  hostile  feeling  between  the  Peruvian  and 
Chilian  Governments  and  peoples,  resulting  from  the  unfor- 
tunate war  1879-1883,  and  the  unsettled  conditions  following. 
'The  Tacna- Arica  question  has  been  one  of  greater  bitterness 
than  that  of  Alsace-Lorraine;  the  present  arrangement,  to 
postpone  the  plebiscite  twenty-one  years,  will  be  greatly  to 
the  advantage  of  both  countries.  On  the  desert  between  the 
two  cities  is  often  an  unusual  effect  of  mirage,  and  from 
Taena  there  is  a  mountain  view  of  much  grandeur. 

Iquique.     The  next  important  port  south  of  Arica  is  Iqui- 


156  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

que,  but  between  the  two  is  Pisagua  where  many  boats  call, 
affording  opportunity  for  any  who  desire,  to  disembark  and 
go  124  miles  by  rail  to  Iquique,  thus  to  see  without  loss  of 
time  something  of  the  rich  nitrate  lands  of  Tarapaca.  This 
part  of  the  coast  may  not  look  very  different,  from  some  of 
the  Peruvian,  yet  it  is  still  more  of  a  desert ;  for  the  Peruvian 
will  blossom  like  a  rose,  with  a  sufficient  water  supply,  while 
this  is  less  easily  transformed.  In  Iquique,  gardens  and 
plazas  have  been  made  by  bringing  from  a  distance  artificial 
soil  for  the  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants,  which  must  be  care- 
fully nurtured.  The  nitrate  ports  are  said  to  look  like  west- 
ern mining  towns,  with  wide  streets,  and  one-story  houses 
made  from  Oregon  lumber,  with  iron  roofs.  There  are  many 
shops  selling  much  liquor  and  canned  stuffs.  The  streets  were 
formerly  dusty,  the  air  full  of  sand.  Unnatural  tastes 
were  developed  by  the  conditions.  Two  miners  in  earlier 
days,  wishing  to  enjoy  a  feast,  sat  down  with  two  cans  of  pate 
de  foie  gras,  a  loaf  of  bread,  a  bottle  of  brandy,  and  two  cans 
of  condensed  milk,  the  last  being  eaten  with  spoons  as  des- 
sert. 

Hotels,  Phoenix  8  to  15  pesos,  Europa  7  to  15,  Grand,  6  to 
10,  all  A.  P.  Iquique,  the  principal  Chilian  port  except  Val- 
paraiso, is  the  most  important  center  of  the  nitrate  in- 
dustry. With  a  population  of  50,000,  called  a  fine  city,  it 
has  an  enormous  commerce  for  its  size,  not  merely  from  the 
export  of  nitrates  but  because  it  is  unique  in  having  all  its 
supplies  brought  in  by  sea,  food,  fuel,  and  formerly  water. 
The  port  receives  more  than  1000  vessels  a  year.  The  popula- 
tion is  rather  rough  and  hard  to  govern,  though  with  a  circle 
of  aristocratic  society,  with  the  usual  accessories.  The  Arturo 
Prat  Plaza  with  a  statue  of  the  hero  in  the  center  is  an  at- 
tractive place.  One  may  here  first  observe  women  conductors 
on  the  street  cars,  many  of  whom  will  be  seen  in  other  Chilian 
cities. 

Water,  formerly,  when  brought  by  sea,  10  cents  a  gallon 
and  at  times  $2.00  when  the  supply  boat  was  overdue,  now 
comes  from  the  mountains,  a  distance  of  148  miles,  by  a  10 
or  12-inch  pipe,  partly  on  the  surface  of  the  desert,  or  buried 
two  or  three  feet.  To  Antofagasta  water  is  brought  173  miles 
from  a  point  10,700  feet  above  the  sea;  to  Taltal,  102  miles. 


THE  CHILIAN  COAST  157 

Though  expensive,  costing  millions,  it  has  proved  profitable. 
The  streets  of  Iquique  are  now  piped,  hydrants  protect 
against  fire,  the  dust  is  laid  by  sprinklers,  some  people  have 
bathrooms,  a  few,  fountains  in  patios,  a  costly  luxury.  It 
was  once  said  that  people  drank  champagne  because  water 
was  too  expensive.  It  is  an  enterprising  community  with  a 
good  portion  of  Anglo-Saxons ;  there  are  broad  streets,  fine 
churches,  schools,  hospitals,  a  large  theater,  pleasant  homes, 
and  good  Clubs.  Some  of  the  people  entertain  sumptuously, 
with  dinner  parties  as  in  London.  A  broad  driveway  along 
the  beach  leads  to  Cavancha,  an  attractive  resort  with  a 
dancing  pavilion,  and  a  choice  flower  garden  tended  with  ut- 
most care.  Halfway  is  the  Jockey  Club-house,  with  race 
track,  tennis,  and  bowling. 

A  railway  climbs  the  variously  colored  mountain  back  of 
Iquique  to  the  Pampa  of  Tamarugal,  where  it  branches  to 
various  offitinas,  interesting  to  visit  if  time  allows.  People 
who  are  born  and  have  lived  in  this  section  can  hardly  be- 
lieve stories  about  grass  that  has  to  be  cut,  and  of  trees  and 
flowers.  A  girl  of  sixteen  who  had  visited  Santiago  on  her 
return  said,  "  Trees,  trees,  everywhere,  grass  growing  in  a 
thick  mat,  and  hundreds  of  flowers!  A  perfect  paradise!" 

The  valuable  nitrate  lands  which,  previous  to  the  war,  be- 
longed to  Peru  and  Bolivia  are  now  the  chief  source  of  Chile's 
wealth.  Yet  it  is  a  curious  fact  that  though  Chile  receives 
from  her  export  tax  on  nitrates  the  large  sum  of  $13,700,000 
annually,  the  finances  of  the  country,  if  they  may  be  judged 
by  the  currency,  are  in  a  poorer  condition  than  those  of  Peru, 
where  with  a  firm  gold  basis  gold  and  silver  coins  are  used, 
while  in  Chile  there  is  paper  money  of  low  and  fluctuating 
value. 

The  nitrate  deposits  are  found  in  the  three  provinces  of 
Tarapaca,  Antofagasta,  and  Ataeama,  along  from  Pisagua  to 
Coquimbo,  about  300  miles.  The  deposits  with  an  average 
width  of  2y2  miles  are  between  the  coast  hills  and  the  Andes, 
10  to  80  miles  from  the  sea,  and  from  2000  to  5000  or  more 
feet  above  its  level,  covering  a  tract  of  about  250,000  acres. 
The  deposits,  sometimes  on  the  surface,  are  oftener  overlaid 
with  strata  of  earth  varying  in  thickness  and  character,  oc- 
casionally with  guano.  They  are  not  continuous,  but  sep- 


158  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

arated  by  other  deposits,  in  some  places  salt.  The  raw  mate- 
rial called  caliche  carries  usually  from  20  to  65  per  cent  of  ni- 
trate of  soda.  It  is  pickled  in  tanks  from  eight  to  twelve 
hours,  the  sand  and  refuse  dropping  to  the  bottom.  The  liquid 
called  calso  runs  off  into  vats.  The  salt  by-product  is  used 
or  discarded.  "When  treated  and  ready  for  export  the  article 
carries  15  to  16  per  cent  of  nitrogen  and  36  per  cent  of  so- 
dium. The  amount  of  production  is  regulated  by  a  syndicate, 
according  to  the  needs  of  the  world.  About  35,000  men  are 
employed,  the  laborers  earning  from  $1.00  to  $2.00  a  day. 
These  establishments,  called  officinas,  are  interesting  to  visit, 
but  it  is  a  gloomy,  depressing  region  for  most  persons.  The 
superintendents,  doctors,  and  other  officials  receive  good  sal- 
aries and  are  supplied  with  comfortable  quarters.  $100,000,- 
000  or  more  of  British  capital  and  some  German,  is  invested 
here  and  large  fortunes  have  been  made.  New  nitrate  fields 
recently  discovered  are  held  at  $2000  an  acre. 

The  nitrate  of  commerce  is  a  white  cheese-like  substance 
from  which  the  highest  grade  gunpowder  is  made;  it  is  also 
used  in  chemical  works  to  produce  nitric  and  sulphuric  acid, 
etc.,  but  the  bulk  of  it  is  employed  as  a  fertilizer,  doubling  or 
tripling  the  harvest.  A  mineral  substance,  it  is  distinguished 
from  guano,  the  excrement  of  birds.  As  to  its  origin  there 
are  various  theories,  but  none  is  generally  accepted.  A  by- 
product, a  yellow  liquor,  which  in  its  preparation  is  drawn  off 
from  the  nitrate  into  a  crucible,  is  then  chemically  treated, 
poured  into  smaller  pans,  and  on  cooling  leaves  on  the  dish 
a  blue  crystal,  the  iodine  of  commerce,  which  costs  as  much 
per  ounce  as  saltpetre  per  100  Ibs.  The  casks  in  which  it  is 
placed  are  covered  with  green  hides  whicli  shrink  and  keep 
out  the  moisture.  "Worth  $700  to  $800  a  cask,  the  iodine  is 
shipped  in  the  treasure  vaults  with  bullion.  About  40  per 
cent  of  the  nitrate  goes  to  Germany,  30  to  the  United  States, 
20  to  France,  the  rest  to  Great  Britian  and  Belgium. 

Antofagasta.  The  next  port,  200  miles  below  Iquique,  at 
which  express  boats  call,  is  Antofagasta,  the  terminus  of  the 
other  railway  from.  Bolivia,  via  Oruro.  Here  are  sea-lions, 
diving  birds,  and  a  considerable  town,  but  no  sheltered  harbor, 
in  spite  of  which  much  commerce  is  carried  on.  This,  with 
Iquique,  as  a  poor  port,  almost  rivals  Mollendo.  One  writer 


THE  CHILIAN  COAST  159 

says  it  is  an  ugly  dun-colored  place,  another  that  it  is  the 
prettiest  town  since  leaving  Panama.  It  has  an  air  of  pros- 
perity with  good  shops  and  business  houses,  a  comfortable 
hotel,  the  Grand,  A.  P.,  7  to  20  pesos,  well  furnished  rooms, 
and  real  milk;  another  says  the  hotel  is  very  bad.  Much  de- 
pends upon  one 's  disposition,  point  of  view,  what  he  expects, 
and  where  he  has  come  from ;  and  you  may  read  exactly  op- 
posite opinions  of  many  places  and  people,  as  happens  even 
of  cities  in  the  United  States. 

Some  steamers  call  at  Caldera,  207  miles  south  of  Antofa- 
gasta,  with  a  sheltered  harbor,  and  the  oldest  railway  in 
South  America  connecting  it  with  the  town  of  Copiapoj  the 
express  boats  call  only  at  Coquimbo  nearly  200  miles  farther 
and  200  north  of  Valparaiso. 

Ooquimbo,  at  the  end  of  the  desert  country,  a  busy  port, 
shipping  more  copper  than  any  other  in  South  America,  is 
situated  at  the  foot  and  up  the  side  of  cliffs.  The  country 
around  is  very  rich  in  fossils.  At  Herradura  on  Horseshoe 
Bay  was  found  a  petrified  icthyosaurus  20  feet  long,  which, 
visitors  are  taken  to  see ;  they  are  informed  that  it  is  12,000 
years  old.  Above  in  the  mountains,  at  an  altitude  of  4000 
feet,  is  a  very  sacred  shrine,  a  Virgin  of  the  Eosary,  at  a 
small  village  called  Andaeollo.  During  Christmas  week  pil- 
grims come  by  thousands  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  even 
from  Peru  and  Argentina,  some  walking  hundreds  of  miles. 
Precious  gifts  and  jewels  valued  at  hundreds  of  thousands  of 
dollars  have  been  presented  at  various  times. 

One  day's  sail  from  Coquimbo  is  Valparaiso. 

Chile.  The  country  of  Chile  is  very  peculiar;  let  me 
hasten  to  add,  in  nothing  more  serious  than  its  shape.  It  is 
indeed  excessively  long  and  narrow,  its  great  extent  from 
north  to  south,  18°  to  56°  S.  Lat,  a  distance  of  nearly  3000 
miles,  giving  it  a  remarkable  variety  of  productions  and 
making  it  larger  than  any  European  country  except  Russia, 
although  it  is  only  from  100  to  300  miles  wide.  It  is  peculiar 
also  that  in  spite  of  its  scanty  width,  it  is  divided  into  three 
narrower  strips,  a  low  Coast  Range,  a  longitudinal  valley  or 
plateau,  and  the  high  range  of  the  Andes.  With  practically 
no  rain  in  the  north,  it  has  a  gradually  increasing  rainfall  to- 
wards the  south,  till  near  the  extremity  there  is  rather  too 


160  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

much.  The  northern  part  is  the  nitrate  and  mining  section: 
the  central  and  larger  part  is  an  agricultural  zone  of  great 
possibilities,  with  good  pasturage  area ;  while  farther  south  is 
an  excellent  forest  region.  There  must  obviously  be  a  great 
variety  of  scenery  as  well  as  of  climate,  so  that  in  one  section 
or  another  all  tastes  may  be  gratified. 

Chile  was  first  invaded  by  Europeans  soon  after  the  founding  of 
Lima  in  1535.  To  Pizarro,  Charles  V,  on  hearing  of  the  conquest, 
had  given  the  country  seventy  leagues  south  of  that  previously  be- 
stowed; to  Diego  de  Almagro  the  two  hundred  leagues  beyond.  In 
which  section  lay  Cuzeo  was  a  matter  of  dispute.  Pending  its  set- 
tlement Almagro  decided  to  conquer  the  remainder  of  his  province. 
That  this  region  was  richer  in  gold  and  silver  than  Peru  was  doubt- 
less a  tale  of  the  Incas  to  distract  the  conquerors  for  their  own  ad- 
vantage. However,  with  an  army  of  Spaniards  and  some  Indian 
captives,  Almagro  set  out  over  the  Bolivian  plateau  to  investigate 
and  take  possession  of  the  unknown  country.  On  the  barren  heights 
they  suffered  hunger,  cold,  and  mountain  sickness,  the  difficulties  of 
this  terrible  journey  in  many  ways  surpassing  those  of  Hannibal 
and  Napoleon  in  crossing  the  Alps.  Failure  and  disappointment 
were  the  only  results  of  the  expedition,  which  was  followed  by 
the  execution  of  the  gallant  leader  after  his  return  to  Cuzeo. 

In  spite  of  Almagro's  disastrous  experience,  a  second  expedition 
was  inaugurated  by  Pedro  de  Valdivia,  who  proceeded  along  the 
desert  shore^  instead  of  over  the  plateau,  and  after  arriving  at 
Arica,  there  constructed  vessels  to  pursue  the  journey.  With  no 
great  loss,  in  December,  1540,  he  reached  the  valley  of  the  Mapocho, 
and  selecting-  a  favorable  site,  on  February  12, 1541,  he  proclaimed  a 
new  city:  Santiago,  for  Spain's  patron  saint,  de  la  Nueva  Estre- 
madurctj  from  his  native  province.  On  the  Plaza  de  Armas  was 
built  a  small  chapel  and  a  Cdbildo  or  Municipal  Council  Chamber, 
as  well. 

Still  unsatisfied  Valdivia  pursued  his  explorations  southward,  be- 
yond the  Bio-Bio  River.  In  his  absence  the  small  garrison  lie  had 
left  behind  barely  escaped  destruction,  being  saved  only  by  the 
valor  and  boldness  of  the  solitary  woman  in  the  party,  Dona  Ines 
de  Suarez.  The  Araucanians,  the  most  powerful  tribe  in  this  sec- 
tion, were  of  different  caliber  from  the  Quichuas,  and  long  and 
fiercely  they  continued  the  struggle  against  the*%ivaders,  who  treated 
them  with  barbarous  severity.  After  the  founding  of  Concepeion, 
Imperial,  Villa  Bica,  and  Valdivia,  and  the  settling  of  the  con- 
queror himself  at  the  town  of  Concepeion,  the  Indians  under  the 
command  of  Lautaro,  who  as  a  servant  of  Valdivia  had  learned 


THE  CHILIAN  COAST  161 

something  of  Spanish,  methods,  attacked  and  defeated  the  Span- 
iards, capturing  Yaldivia  and  putting  him  to  death  with  tortures. 
After  long-continued  warfare  a  truce  was  established,  with  the 
Bio-Bio  River  as  the  boundary  line,  but  for  two  hundred  and  fifty 
years  the  contest  went  on  for  the  subjugation  of  the  natives.  At  last, 
when  the  Chilians  rose  against  Spain,  the  Araucanians  lent  assist- 
ance, and  friendliness  was  established.  As  in  other  lands,  however, 
civilization  of  a  sort  proved  too  much  for  the  Indians  and  few  of 
pure  blood  remain. 

On  the  16th  of  June,  1810,  the  movement  for  independence  be- 
gan with  the  abdication  of  the  Governor,  Carrasco,  on  account  of 
difficulty  between  himself  and  the  Eeal  Audiencia.  September  18, 
1810,  the  Cabildo  or  City  Council  in  open  session  elected  a  Junta  to 
govern  until  a  National  Congress  should  be  convoked,  ostensibly 
for  the  purpose  of  holding  the  dominion  for  King  Ferdinand,  de- 
posed by  Napoleon.  The  people  regarding  this  as  the  birth  of 
their  independence  were  filled  with  joy.  An  army  subsequently 
sent  from  Spain  landed  at  Coneepcion,  marched  northward  re- 
cruiting royalists,  and  after  several  engagements  finally  put  to 
rout  the  patriots,  who  were  commanded  by  Bernardo  O'Higgins 
assisted  by  Colonel  Juan  Maekenna.  October  16,  1814,  General 
Osorio  with  the  Spanish  army  entered.  Santiago  and  there  main- 
tained Spanish  rule  for  three  years  longer.  General  O'Higgins 
meanwhile  fled  to  Mendoza  in  Argentina  to  join  the  army  which  was 
being  organized  in  that  city  by  Gfeneral  San  Martin  for  the  ex- 
pulsion of  the  Spanish  power  from  the  entire  continent.  Three 
years  were  required  for  this  work.  In  January,  1817,  the  in- 
vasion of  Chile  from  Argentina  was  begun  by  a  well-drilled  army 
of  5000  men,  1600  horses,  and  many  pack  mules.  One  division 
came  by  the  Uspallata  Pass,  along  the  coach  route  across  the 
Cordilleras,  and  the  one  followed  by  Almagro  almost  three  cen- 
turies earlier.  A  second  division  under  San  Martin  came  by 
the  lower  Los  Patos  Pass.  The  two  divisions,  having  united  on 
February  12,  gained  a  complete  victory  over  the  royalists  in  the 
famous  battle  of  Chacabuco,  and  February  14  entered  Santi- 
ago. The  enthusiastic  and  grateful  Chilians  now  offered  to  San 
Martin  the  governorship  of  the  country.  This  unselfish  patriot 
declining  the  honor,  an  assembly,  February  17,  appointed  General 
O'Higgins  Dictator,  thus  concluding  the  so-called  Reconquista  or 
Eeconquest  of  Chile.  However,  troubles  were  not  over.  The 
Viceroy  of  Peru  sent  General  Osorio  again  to  Chile.  Landing  at 
Talcahuano  in  the  south  he  was  able  to  advance  with  his  army, 
after  defeating  O'Higgins,  until  he  approached  Santiago;  but  on 
the  plain  of  Maipo,  April  5,  1818,  San  Martin  again  gained  a 


162  THE  SOUTH  AMEBICAN  TOUR 

decisive  victory.  Meanwhile  on  the  anniversary  of  the  battle  of 
Chacabueo  the  Act  of  Independence  was  read  in  the  Plaza  of  San- 
tiago, and  the  oath  was  taken  by  the  leaders.  The  United  States 
was  the  first  nation  to  recognize  the  Republic.  A  navy  was  soon 
formed  and  with  the  aid  of  Admiral  Lord  Coehrane,  a  squadron  of 
eight  warships  and  sixteen  transports  in  1820  carried  north  the 
army  of  San  Martin  for  the  conquest  of  Peru. 

In  1823  General  O'Higgins  was  obliged  to  resign  his  Dictator- 
ship and  a  period  of  confusion  followed.  In  1833  a  constitution 
was  adopted.  In  the  administration  of  Manuel  Montt  in  the  fifties 
railway  construction  was  inaugurated.  In  that  of  President  Pinto 
occurred  the  War  of  the  Pacific  with  Peru  and  Bolivia,  1879-81, 
though  the  treaty  of  peace  was  not  signed  till  1883,  when  the 
province  of  Tarapaea  was  ceded  to  Chile,  and  occupation  for  ten 
years  was  arranged  for  Tacna  and  Arica.  About  the  same  time  a 
boundary  treaty  was  concluded  with  Argentina,  with  which  nation 
Chile  had  been  on  the  verge  of  war.  Balmaceda,  elected  President 
in  1886,  instituted  many  reforms  but  by  his  arbitrary  methods 
brought  on  civil  war.  A  victory  by  the  constitutional  party  was  fol- 
lowed by  Balmaceda's  suicide. 

The  unfortunate  death  of  the  able  President  Montt  in  1910  was 
succeeded  by  the  election  of  the  present  incumbent,  Kamon  Barros 
Luco,  Among  the  prominent  Chilian  families  (it  has  been  said 
that  one  hundred  of  these  govern  the  country),  are  many  British 
names,  the  forbears  of  these  having  married  into  the  best  Spanish 
American  families  and  become  patriotic  citizens  of  their  adopted 
country. 


CHAPTER  XVH 
VALPARAISO 

HOTELS.  Royal,  A.  P.,  12  to  25  pesos;  Grand,  A.  P.,  10-15  pesos; 
Palace,  about  the  same  or  a  trifle  less;  Colon,  6  to  12  pesos.  All 
higher  in  summer. 

Money.  The  Chilian  peso,  paper,  varies  in  value  from  20  to  30 
cents  or  more;  recently  it  was  22  cents. 

CMef  Points  of  Interest.  The  Monument  and  the  Government 
Palace  near  the  landing;  the  business  streets;  Plaza  Victoria  and  the 
church  facing  it;  the  Av.  Brazil  with  the  British  Monument;  the 
Naval  School;  the  English  and  the  Spanish  American  Cemeteries  on 
the  heights,  these  with  the  Naval  School  reached  by  aseensors;  and 
the  suburb  Vina  del  Mar. 

Valparaiso,  Vale  of  Paradise,  the  largest  and  busiest  port 
on  the  Pacific  south  of  San  Francisco,  like  many  others  along 
this  coast,  has  no  .real  harbor.  The  spacious  semi-circular 
roadstead  lies  open  to  the  wintry  northers  which  occasionally 
bring  terrific  storms.  On  such  occasions,  ships  at  anchor  in 
the  bay  to  escape  the  fury  of  the  waves  often  steam  for  the 
open  sea,  lest  they  be  driven  ashore  or  be  overwhelmed  in  the 
deep,  as  has  several  times  happened  to  ocean  steamers.  In 
the  summer  there  is  no  danger,  and  after  the  completion  of 
the  breakwater  designed  to  protect  the  bay  from  the  savage 
force  of  the  tempestuous  sea,  it  will  be  safe  at  any  time.  The 
great  depth  of  the  water  a  short  distance  from  shore  renders 
the  construction  difficult,  but  satisfactory  plans  at  length 
were  devised  and  in  October,  1912,  work  was  begun  on  the  port 
improvements  which  besides  the  breakwater  945  feet  long 
will  include  additional  docks.  Those  in  existence  are  sadly 
inadequate  for  the  vast  commercial  movement  at  this  port. 

"While  from  a  business  point  of  view  the  harbor  at  present  ia 
poor,  from  the  deck  of  a  steamer  or  from  the  hills  above  the 

163 


164  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

town,  there  is  a  busy  and  beautiful  scene.  Scattered  over  the 
waters  are  hundreds  of  vessels  of  various  shapes  and  of  every 
size,  some  from  the  farthest  corners  of  the  globe,  showing 
flags  of  many  nations  (probably  none  of  the  United  States), 
others  mere  lighters  or  rowboats  to  transport  freight  or 
passengers  from  ship  to  shore.  Around  the  bay,  a  few  rods 
back  from  the  water,  rise  in  a  semi-circle  steep  hills  or  cliffs 
to  a  height  of  1000  feet  or  more.  Farther  back,  more  lofty 
ridges  are  seen,  and  it  is  said  that  on  a  clear  day  in  the 
far  distance  may  be  descried,  in  the  sharp  toothed  ridge  which 
forms  the  backbone  of  the  continent,  the  snow-flecked  peak 
of  Aconcagua. 

On  the  narrow  strip  of  shore  between  the  sea  and  the  hills, 
varying  in  width  from  two  blocks  to  half  a  mile,, is  the  sub- 
stantial business  section  of  the  city;  while  climbing  up  the 
slopes  and  crowning  the  hilltops  is  most  of  the  residence 
portion,  both  the  fine  dwellings  of  the  prosperous  and  the 
humble  homes  of  the  poor. 

The  arriving  steamers  are  as  usual  beset  by  a  throng  of 
boatmen,  and  wary  must  be  the  tourist  who  is  not  exorbitantly 
fleeced,  unless  he  has  a  friend  on  board  to  guide,  or  one 
from  the  city  to  greet  him.  As  the  Chilian  peso,  of  somewhat 
variable  value,  is  generally  worth  less  than  a  quarter  of  a 
dollar,  the  tariff  price  is  not  so  high  as  it  sounds;  one  peso 
for  each  person  or  considerable  piece  of  baggage  is  a  suitable 
fee,  though  much  more  is  likely  to  be  demanded. 

At  the  landing,  arrangements  may  be  made  for  the  trans- 
port of  the  heavy  baggage  by  cart,  while  you  go  with  hand 
baggage  to  the  hotel  in  a  carriage;  or  a  tram  car  may  serve 
you.  The  hotels,  the  Eoyal,  Palace,  and  Grand,  are  all  with- 
in half  a  mile  of  the  landing.  The  Royal  Hotel,  65  Esmer- 
alda  street,  which  is  sometimes  full  to  overflowing,  will  be 
found  amply  satisfactory.  The  American  proprietors,  Mr. 
and  Miss  Kehle,  have  made  it  more  like  a  hotel  in  the  United 
States  than  are  any  others  that  I  have  seen  on  the  West  Coast. 
Located  on  one  of  the  principal  business  streets,  it  affords  ex- 
cellent meals  in  several  large  dining-rooms;  and  handsomely 
furnished  chambers,  with  modern  equipment  including  red 
satin  puffs  for  the  beds  in  addition  to  fine  blankets.  The  price 
is  from  12  to  15  pesos  and  up  according  to  the  room.  The 


;   *  tort^fcf^^^s^    '       i     *»w     T''1* 


VALPARAISO   HARBOR 


MONUMENT  TO  AETURO  PRAT,  PLAZA  INDEPENDBNCIA 


VALPARAISO  165 

Grand  Hotel  is  said  to  afford  similar  accommodations  at 
about  the  same  prices.  The  Palace,  a  little  cheaper,  is  well 
situated  on  the  Plaza  de  los  Bomberos,  and  others  less  pre- 
tentious, as  the  Colon,  87  Bsmeralda,  are  called  clean  and 
good. 

In  Valparaiso,  a  city  of  nearly  200,000,  it  seems  to  be  the 
fashion  for  the  residents  to  reply,  when  asked  what  there  is  to 
see,  "0,  nothing  at  all."  This  is  by  no  means  true,  though 
at  least  twice  as  much  time  should  be  devoted  to  Santiago. 
First  there  is  the  large  square  near  the  landing  on  which  is 
the  handsome  Casa  del  Gobierno.  In  the  center  of  the  plaza 
is  a  fine  monument,  The  Country  to  the  Heroes  of  the  21st  of 
May,  and  at  one  corner  near  the  docks  is  the  railway  station 
to  Santiago.  The  air  seems  crisp  and  the  city  more  European 
than  any  previously  seen. 

The  business  streets  have  many  handsome  buildings  two 
or  three  stories  high,  a  few  even  more,  looking  fresh  and  clean, 
since  the  greater  part  of  this  district  was  laid  low  by  the 
terrible  earthquake  of  1906.  A  twelve-month  of  unusual 
shrinkage,  of  adjustment  of  the  earth's  surface,  and  of  con- 
sequent calamity  was  practically  coincident  with  this  year. 
In  April  1906  occurred  the  catastrophe  at  San  Francisco,  Aug- 
ust 16,  the  practical  destruction  of  Valparaiso,  and  in  Jan- 
uary, 1907,  the  disaster  at  Kingston.  Some  buildings  in  Val- 
paraiso withstood  the  shocks,  but  with  the  'quakes  and  the  re- 
sulting fires  little  of  the  lower  part  of  the  city  remained  un- 
damaged. The  upper  town  was  to  a  great  extent  uninjur.ed 
and  the  shipping  in  the  bay  received  no  harm.  Few  traces  of 
the  calamity  are  now  left,  as  like  San  Francisco  the  town 
was  soon  rebuilt  in  a  superior  manner.  While  slight  earth- 
quakes are  frequent  they  are  not  fearsome,  as  heavy  shocks 
are  usually  half  a  century  apart.  Besides  earthquakes,  Val- 
paraiso has  experienced  other  calamities.  Founded  in  1536, 
in  its  earlier  days  it  was  three  times  captured  and  sacked  by 
pirates ;  in  1858,  it  was  destroyed  by  fire ;  in  1866,  bombarded 
by  a  Spanish  fleet ;  and  in  1890  it  suffered  considerable  injury 
from  the  Balmaceda  revolution.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  after 
all  these  vicissitudes  it  may  enjoy  a  peaceful  existence.  A 
stroll  along  the  principal  streets  to  the  office  of  the  Amer- 
ican consul,  Mr.  Alfred  "Winslow,  to  the  banking  house  of 


166  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

W.  K.  Grace,  and  to  gaze  at  the  handsome  shop  windows  is 
the  pastime  of  an  hour  or  two.  Between  the  hills  and  the 
water  it  is  impossible  to  lose  one's  way.  The  double-decked 
tram  ears  are  an  imposing  sight,  and  rather  curious  objects 
are  the  women  conductors.  Having  heard  of  these  before 
arriving,  I  was  expecting  to  see  some  trim  young  women,  with 
possibly  a  coquettish  eye  turning  at  times  upon  some  of  the 
gentlemen  patrons,  as  occasionally  happens  in  some  of  our 
cheap  restaurants ;  but  no !  Staid  indeed  are  the  women  con- 
ductors in  Valparaiso  and  Santiago,  and  far  from  handsome. 
Plainly  dressed  in  a  sort  of  blue  uniform  with  white  aprons, 
they  are  obviously  of  the  so-called  laboring  class,  of  rather 
stolid  appearance,  perhaps  the  mothers  of  families,  and 
closely  intent  upon  their  duties.  It  appears  that  during  the 
war  of  '79-781,  so  many  young  men  joined  the  army  that 
women  were  drafted  into  this  service.  Performing  it  in  a 
satisfactory  manner  they  continued  to  be  so  employed 
though  not  to  the  total  exclusion  of  men.  They  mount  to 
the  upper  story  to  collect  fares  and  in  Santiago  swing  along 
the  sides  of  the  open  ears  quite  in  man  fashion/  though 
necessarily  hampered  by  their  voluminous  sMrts.  Manifestly 
competent  for  the  labor,  less  difficult  than  other  duties  like 
scrubbing  floors,  supposed  to  lie  more  within  their  sphere, 
it  would  seem  that  bifurcated  garments,  even  knickerbockers, 
would  enable  them  to  perform  either  service  more  easily. 
If  men  and  women  were  to  exchange  garments  for  a  hundred 
years  it  is  conceivable  that  the  idea  as  to  which  is  the  weaker 
sex  might  be  changed  also. 

A  few  ear  rides  may  be  taken  to  advantage,  the  greater 
if  sitting  above;  but  among  the  natives  of  the  upper  class 
this  is  taboo,  as  the  price  is  only  half  of  that  below;  the 
fares  being  five  and  ten  centavos  respectively.  A  gentleman 
in  Santiago  remarked  to  me  that  although  he  preferred  riding 
outside  it  would  never  do  except  in  the  evening,  when  he 
could  not  be  recognized  from  the  street  or  from  the  upper 
windows  of  houses  in  passing. 

Not  far  from  the  Royal  Hotel  is  the  Plaza  Victoria  on  one 
side  of  which  is  the  Espiritu  Santo  Church,  the  most  fashion- 
able in  the  city,  though  with  an  ordinary  exterior.  A  flower 
market  is  passed  on  the  way,  where  beautiful  roses  and  other 


VALPARAISO  167 

flowers  may  be  purchased  in  quantities  for  a  single  peso.  The 
general  market  as  a  matter  of  course  is  worth  seeing,  espe- 
cially in  the  season  of  fruits,  as  Chile  rivals  California  in  the 
excellence  and  variety  of  these,  and  surpasses  it  in  cheapness. 
The  fruits  of  the  Temperate  Zone,  cherries,  peaches,  apples, 
pears,  and  grapes,  luscious  in  quality  and,  they  say,  unrivaled 
in  any  part  of  the  world,  in  their  summer  and  fall,  tempt  the 
tourist  on  every  hand. 

It  is  important  to  ascend  the  hills  in  two  or  three  different 
places,  both  for  the  view  going  up  and  for  what  is  to  be  seen 
at  the  top.  The  ascensors  are  similar  to  those  of  Cincinnati, 
one  being  carried  up  by  cable  as  another  is  coming  down; 
but  the  inclines  seemed  steeper  and  one  appeared  rather 
rickety.  There  have  been  fatal  accidents.  However, — I  went 
as  do  others.  Near  the  top  of  one  of  the  inclines  which  is  but 
a  short  distance  from  the  Hotel  Royal  is  a  cemetery  where 
chapel-like  tombs  and  pretty  head  stones  and  monuments 
are  closely  packed  together  among  shaded  walks  on  the  very 
edge  of  the  precipitous  bluff.  One  has  here  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  city  below  fringing  the  semi-circular  shore,  of 
the  blue  waters,  alive  with  ships,  and  of  the  surrounding 
hills.  Through  canons  here  and  there  separating  the  various 
hills  and  bluffs,  a  few  carriage  roads  wind  steeply  upward 
and  more  footpaths,  by  which  some  pedestrians  climb;  but 
most  persons  will  prefer  to  save  time  and  strength  by  taking 
their  chances  in  an  ascensor.  Perched  on  these  steep  inclines 
are  houses  of  the  poor,  while  at  the  top  are  many  fine  villas 
occupied  by  native  and  foreign  residents.  Close  to  the 
Chilian  cemetery  on  the  bluff  is  the  English  burM  ground 
surrounded  by  a  high  wall.  In  a  far  corner  of  this  enclosure 
is  a  small  marble  tomb  on  a  concrete  foundation  with  a  marble 
cross  above,  the  whole  about  five  feet  high,  in  which  Ameri- 
cans will  have  a  special  interest.  The  inscription  reads : 

"In  memory  of  the  officers  and  seamen  slain  on  board 
the  United  States  frigate  Essex  in  this  harbor  in  an  engage- 
ment with  H.  R.  Majesty's  frigate  Phoebe  and  brig  Cherub, 
February  28,  1814."  A  list  of  52  names  follows  and  the 
statement  that  it  was  erected  by  officers  of  four  ships  of  the 
United  States  Navy. 

This  ship,  the  Essex,  commanded  by  Capt  David  Porter, 


168  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

after  inflicting  much  damage  on  British,  property,  capturing 
360  seamen  and  100  cannon,  was  surprised  in  this  harbor  by 
two  British  ships.  Though  disabled  by  a  squall  she  made 
a  splendid  fight  until  more  than  three-fifths  of  the  crew  were 
killed  or  wounded,  and  the  ship  was  on  fire  in  several  places, 
when  she  struck  her  colors.  A  more  conspicuous  monument 
for  the  gallant  dead  might  seem  appropriate. 

By  another  ascensor,  a  trip  should  be  made  to  the  Naval 
School,  which  crowns  a  splendid  height  nearer  the  outer  edge 
of  the  harbor.  A  fine  large  building,  well  equipped  in  the 
best  modern  English  fashion,  stands  back  of  a  pretty  garden. 
There  are  good  class  rooms,  laboratories,  machine  shops  with 
guns  mounted  as  on  board  ship,  and  all  essentials  for  a 
thorough  and  practical  course  of  study.  In  the  rear  patios 
are  athletic  fields  with  bathing  facilities.  The  cadets  are 
generally  from  the  best  families,  and  the  program  of  study 
is  based  on  that  of  English  schools;  the  fleet  is  organized  on 
the  British  model,  and  the  ships  are  constructed  in  British 
shipyards.  There  is,  further,  a  training  ship  for  sailors, 
where  if  unable  to  read  and  write  they  receive  instruction, 
as  do  soldiers  in  a  corresponding  institution  in  Santiago. 

On  the  fine  broad  Avenue  Brazil  is  a  handsome  arch  with 
the  British  Lion  above,  presented  to  the  city  by  the  British 
colony  here,  at  the  Centennial  in  1910. 

Vina  del  Mar.  An  excursion  should  by  all  means  be  made 
to  this  suburb;  to  Miramar  if  time  allows.  The  former  may 
be  reached  by  tram  or  train  in  half  an  hour  or  so.  It  is 
pleasant  to  go  by  one  and  return  by  the  other.  The  tracks, 
nearly  parallel,  pass  several  pretty  suburbs  and  give  several 
glimpses  of  the  sea  beyond  the  harbor  before  reaching  the 
destination.  Vina  del  Mar  is  not  only  a  suburb  of  Valparaiso 
whither  many  Englishmen  and  others  go  in  the  afternoon  for 
sports,  and  where  many  business  men  of  Valparaiso  have 
homes,  but  it  is  also  a  fashionable  summer  resort  for  the 
wealthy  residents  of  Santiago  and  other  parts  of  Chile.  It  is 
a  charming  place  with  a  pretty  railway  station  near  a  large 
and  attractive  plaza.  Many  carriages  stand  near,  in  one  of 
which  for  a  few  pesos  a  pleasant  drive  may  be  taken  around 
the  town  and  out  to  the  hippodrome  or  race  track,  a  mile  or 
more  outside  the  city.  Within  the  track  enclosure,  a  pretty 


AVEXIDA   BRAZIL,    WITH   BRITISH    MONUMENT 


RESIDENCE  VINA  DEL  MAR 


VALPARAISO 

spot  surrounded  by  green  hills,  the  foreigners  have  laid 
out  a  golf  course,  grounds  for  cricket,  and  for  football.  The 
place  is  thus  visited,  .especially  on  Sundays,  by  many,  not  only 
for  the  races,  to  which  the  Chilians  are  as  devoted  as  the 
Argentines,  but  for  athletics  of  various  kinds.  The  Chilian 
horses  seem  very  large  after  those  of  Peru,  and  trotting 
is  their  specialty.  Some  of  them  do  this  so  well  that  their 
gentle  trot  is  as  easy  as  the  lope  or  canter  of  most  other 
animals. 

A  pretty  and  commodious  clubhouse  faces  the  Plaza,  and 
near  by  are  many  charming  villas  of  attractive  architecture 
surrounded  by  luxuriant  vegetation  of  tropical  and  temperate 
climes,  beautiful  flower  beds,  trees,  and  shrubbery.  Half  a 
mile  from  the  center  of  the  town  is  a  fine  beach  bordered  by 
jutting  rock  promontories.  Large  bathing  establishments, 
cafes  for  ices  and  tea,  and  splendid  villas  with  well  laid  out 
grounds  recall  our  own  shore  resorts.  A  good  pedestrian  may 
be  tempted  to  climb  over  the  steep  enclosing  hill  and  descend 
on  the  other  side  to  the  electric  car  track  for  his  return  to 
the  city.  The  Grand  Hotel  with  beautiful  grounds  is  the 
leading  hostelry  of  the  place. 

Miramar  is  a  small  but  popular  bathing  resort  in  the  op- 
posite direction  from  Valparaiso,  reached  by  electric  cars;  but 
the  bathing  is  here  more  dangerous,  as  not  far  from  shore 
the  bottom  drops  suddenly  to  a  great  depth. 

From  Valparaiso  to  Santiago  by  rail  is  a  ride  of  3^  or 
4  hours  by  express  trains  and  about  two  more  by  accommo- 
dation. The  price  of  tickets  for  the  express  is  12.80  pesos, 
4  extra  for  seat  in  Pullman ;  8.50  pesos  by  slower  train.  It 
is  a  pleasant  ride,  for  a  few  miles  near  the  shore,,  passing  Vina 
del  Mar,  then  east  through  the  Coast  Bange  to  the  Central 
Plain,  at  Llai  Llai  leaving  the  Andine  Railway  to  turn  south- 
ward to  Santiago. 


CHAPTER  XVHI 
SANTIAGO 

HOTELS.  Oddo,  A.  P.,  12  to  40  pesos;  Grand,  A.  P.,  12  to  18 
pesos;  Francia,  and  Royal,  about  the  same;  others  at  lower  prices. 

Chief  Points  of  Interest*  Plaza  de  Annas;  Cathedral  and  other 
buildings  around;  the  Capitol;  the  Moneda;  the  Alameda;  Parque 
Cousino;  most  important,  Santa  Lucia  Park  and  the  Cemetery;  the 
Art  Gallery. 

Santiago,  the  capital  and  largest  city  of  Chile,  the  third 
or  fourth  in  size  in  South  America,  considered  by  some  trav- 
elers to  have  the  most  beautiful  location  of  any  capital  in 
the  world  except  Eio  de  Janeiro,  is  situated  on  the  river 
Mapocho  in  the  long  central  valley  of  Chile,  at  an  elevation 
of  2000  feet.  Founded  by  the  doughty  warrior  and  Spanish 
invader,  friend  and  almost  counterpart  of  Francisco  Pizarro, 
Pedro  de  Yaldivia,  it  was  by  him  planned  and  laid  out  in 
1541  after  he  had  first  built  a  fort  on  Santa  Lucia  hill,  an 
excellent  site  for  the  purpose,  recalling  the  ancient  Greek 
Acropolis  or  some  of  the  mediaeval  strongholds.  On  account 
of  the  too  great  dispersion  of  the  invaders,  the  settlement  for 
some  years  had  a  hard  struggle  for  existence,  but  during  its 
century  of  independence  it  has  grown  rapidly.  Its  popula- 
tion, now  approaching  400,000,  is  ten  times  as  great  as  when 
independence  was  declared  in  1810. 

The  site  is  indisputably  one  of  remarkable  beauty  and  pic- 
turesque charm,  without  any  interference  with  the  conven- 
ience of  a  large  city.  The  hills  in  and  on  the  edge  of  the 
city,  rising  like  small  islands  abruptly  from  the  plain,  do  not 
preclude  long  level  streets,  yet  form  a  peculiar  and  admirable 
embellishment,  while  east  and  west,  the  mountains  of  the 
Great  Cordillera  and  of  the  Coast  Range,  which  a  few  miles 

170 


SANTIAGO  171 

away  rise  as  lofty  ramparts  to  the  ethereal  blue,  are  an  ever 
sublime  and  noble  contrast  to  the  verdant  smiling  plain. 

The  climate  of  Santiago,  which  at  33°  S.  has  about  the 
same  latitude  as  Charleston  and  San  Diego  N.,  is  considered 
excellent ;  though  the  three  winter  months,  in  dwellings  desti- 
tute of  heating  apparatus,  seem  rather  cool  indoors  to  resi- 
dents of  the  United  States.  In  the  summer,  though  not 
extremely  hot,  it  is  very  dusty,  so  that  wealthy  residents  at 
this  season  escape  to  Vina  del  Mar  or  other  seashore  resorts, 
to  the  beautiful  lake  region,  to  the  springs  and  baths  among 
the  mountains,  or  even  to  the  fjords  in  the  distant  south. 
An.  amusing  mot  of  a  German  is  related  by  one  who  did  not 
seem  to  appreciate  it.  "The  climate  of  Santiago  is  good  but 
it  is  very  unhealthy."  And  both  statements  have  been  quite 
true,  the  latter  inexcusably  so,  resulting  from  the  fact  that 
ordinary  sanitary  measures  have  been  neglected.  The  med- 
ical congress  in  1911  was  held  in  the  midst  of  an  epidemic 
of  smallpox.  There  has  been  a  woeful  lack  of  sewerage. 
But  happily  the  officials  have  at  last  come  to  realize  the 
importance  of  sanitation,  an  adequate  system  of  sewerage  is 
now  installed,  and  doubtless  other  deficiencies  will  soon  be 
remedied. 

From  the  fine  large  railway  station  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
city,  a  carriage  or  tram  car  may  be  taken  to  one  of  the  hotels 
near  the  center,  a  mile  or  more  distant.  To  secure  rooms 
at  the  Oddo,  for  many  years  regarded  as  the  leading  hotel 
of  Santiago,  it  is  often  necessary  to  engage  rooms  in  advance, 
as  both  main  building  and  annexes  are  generally  crowded. 
The  Oddo,  near  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  is  on  one  of  the  principal 
streets,  the  Ahumada,  327,  the  annexes  on  another  at  right 
angles  with  this,  the  Huerfanos,  976  and  1012,  all  three  in 
the  heart  of  the  city.  The  Grand  Hotel,  preferred  by  some, 
is  close  by,  Huerfanos  1164.  Other  hotels  approximating 
these  are  the  Hotel  Francia,  finely  located  on  the  south  side 
of  the  Plaza,  and  the  Royal.  Prices  at  the  first  two  are  likely 
to  be  15  or  18  pesos  a  day,  with  morning  coffee,  one  peso,  as 
an  extra.  Other  hotels  of  more-  modest  price  and  accommo- 
dations are  the  Fornos,  Brinek,  Frances,  and  Imperial  on  the 
Alameda,  the  Milan,  Estado  130,  the  Biarritz,  and  near  the 
station  the  Meloossi. 


172  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

At  tlie  Oddo  Hotel,  a  surprising  and  pleasant  custom  in 
1911  was  that  morning  and  evening  the  newspapers,  El  Mer- 
curio  and  Las  Ultimas  Noticias,  were  thrust  under  the  door 
of  my  room,  the  first  in  time  to  enjoy  with  my  morning  coffee. 
Whether  this  was  by  the  courtesy  of  the  hotel  proprietor  or 
the  newspaper  management  (both  papers  having  the  same 
publishers)  I  am  unable  to  state.  Bather  expecting  to  find 
them  charged  on  my  bill,  I  was  agreeably  disappointed  that 
they  were  not.  To  the  tourist  coming  down  the  West  Coast 
the  newspapers  of  Chile  are  a  surprise.  Those  of  Peru  and 
Bolivia  though  often  with  able  editorials  are  small,  and  con- 
tain but  a  modicum  of  foreign  news,  especially  of  the  United 
States;  and  the  little  there  is  from  our  own  country  is  largely 
gossip.  But  in  Chile,  as  on  the  East  Coast,  it  is  different. 
The  Mercuric  is  a  newspaper  of  world-wide  reputation  and 
of  advanced  age,  exceeded  by  few  in  the  United  States. 
Originally  founded  in  Valparaiso  in  1827,  a  Santiago  edition 
was  started  in  1900,  the  two  papers  now  being  published  with 
the  same  editorials,  cables,  and  general  news,  though  differing 
in  local  matters.  The  proprietor  is  Mr.  Augustin  Edwards, 
a  member  of  a  wealthy  banking  house  and  a  large  owner  and 
president  of  the  Compania  Sud-Americana  de  Vapores.  The 
buildings  in  which  they  are  housed,  and  the  contents  of  these 
papers  are  superior  to  most  of  those  in  larger  cities  of  the 
United  States.  Besides  good  quarters  for  editors,  reporters, 
and  other  employees,  there  are  dining,  reception,  and  assembly 
rooms,  bed  and  bath  rooms,  and  other  features  not  found  in 
our  establishments.  The  editors  are  cultivated,  well  informed 
gentlemen,  whose  well  written  editorials  on  the  chief  topics 
of  the  day  are  read  and  become  subjects  of  daily  conversation 
among  men  of  the  upper  class.  More  news  in  regard  to 
foreign  countries  is  printed  than  is  usual  in  our  metropolitan 
dailies.  Distinguished  strangers  are  interviewed,  social  life 
receives  attention,  commercial  matters,  sport,  science,  and 
literature  all  have  their  place.  Las  Ultimas  Noticias,  an 
evening  paper  with  the  same  publishers,  is  of  lighter  char- 
acter. Besides  other  good  though  less  known  dailies,  San- 
tiago has  illustrated  weeklies,  the  Zigzag,  and  Succesos,  con- 
taining a  record  in  pictures  of  the  week's  happenings,  cartoons 
and  photographs  of  local  and  of  world-wide  interest.  These 


SANTIAGO  173 

are  in  compact  magazine  form  of  slightly  less  size  and  thick- 
ness than  our  monthlies. 

Sight-seeing  in  Santiago  naturally  begins  with  the  Plaza, 
the  center  of  which  is  beautified  by  palm,  orange,  and  fir 
trees,  grass,  fountains,  and  flower  beds,  among  which  are 
broad  walks  and  benches.  From  the  usual  band  stand  Sun- 
day, Thursday,  and  Saturday  evenings  concerts  of  good  clas- 
sical and  operatic  music  are  given,  in  summer  from  eight  to 
ten  p.  m.,  in  winter  from  sis  to  seven.  In  the  center  of  the 
Plaza  is  a  statue  by  a  famous  Italian  sculptor,  Fagazarro, 
which  represents  Liberty  breaking  the  chains  of  (Spanish) 
Slavery.  The  four  crocodiles  beneath  with  their  mouths  open 
indicate  that  this  was  originally  intended  for  a  fountain. 

Around  the  Plaza  are  buildings  of  importance ;  on  the  west 
side,  the  Cathedral,  originally  constructed  of  stone  on  the  site 
which  Valdivia  appointed  for  the  first  church  to  be  erected 
in  Chile.  If  the  outside  is  not  remarkable  the  interior  is 
vast  and  imposing.  On  each  side  of  the  nave  are  large  square 
pillars  with  images  of  Saints  and  Apostles.  In  the  usual  side 
chapels  are  various,  paintings  by  old  masters  and  other  ob- 
jects of  interest;  a  reclining  life-size  figure  of  San  Francisco 
de  Xavier,  carved  from  the  trunk  of  a  pear  tree,  is  considered 
of  high  artistic  merit.  This  work  was  found  in  the  monastery 
of  the  Jesuits  when  that  Order  was  expelled  from  Chile  in 
1776.  Another  chapel  on  the  same  side,  that  of  Santo  Sac- 
ramento, contains  a  monstrance  and  altar  of  beautifully 
wrought  silver  more  than  two  hundred  years  old,  and  also  an 
antique,  large  swinging  silver  lamp.  The  choir  stalls  in  the 
chancel  are  as  usual  of  carved  wood,  also  the  throne  of  the 
Archbishop.  In  the  sacristy  is  a  large  oil  painting  of  The 
Last  Supper,  of  the  old  Spanish  school,  and  a  crystal  chande- 
lier which  hung  in  a  room  where  the  first  Congress  assembled, 
now  the  National  Library.  In  the  Cathedral  are  buried  the 
three  archbishops,  the  first,  Senor  Vicuna  Larrain,  conse- 
crated in  1841.  The  tomb  of  the  second  is  noteworthy,  elab- 
orately carved  of  Carrara  marble,  with  fluted  columns  and 
trailing  vines,  and  the  reclining  figure  of  the  archbishop  in 
his  stately  robes.  In  front  crouches  a  bronze  lion.  The 
stained  glass  windows  deserve  attention.  The  particularly 
fine  organ  is  said  to  be  equal  in  tone  to  that  in  St.  Paul's, 


SANTIAGO  175 

It  has  a  fine  system  of  electric  cars  with  a  device  which  in 
our  cities  might  be  adopted  to  very  great  advantage.  The 
cars  of  the  various  routes,  in  addition  to  the  names  of  streets 
or  destinations  which  they  bear,  are  all  numbered,  with  figures 
at  the  top  large  enough  to  be  visible  for  a  block  or  two.  On 
the  calle  Ahumada  you  will  see  cars  numbered  15,  17,  20, 
24,  etc.  Should  you  wish  to  go  to  the  Park,  you  may  take 
No.  19  on  Huerfanos.  The  hotel  people  or  any  resident  will 
tell  you  what  cars  you  may  take  and  where,  for  any  given 
point,  or  you  will  find  a  complete  list  in  Scott's  Guide  Book. 

After  seeing  the  Plaza,  one  may  take  No.  19  there  for 
Parque  Cousino,  or  a  cab  or  automobile  for  a  drive  about 
the  city.  In  1911  the  paving  on  many  streets  was  so  rough 
that  the  cars  were  preferred  by  many;  yet  one  conversant 
with  the  city  could  for  the  most  part  keep  to  smooth  road- 
ways and  visit  nearly  all  sections. 

The  business  quarter  of  the  city  is  chiefly  between  the 
Plaza  and  the  Alameda,  extending  also  to  the  west.  All  of 
these  streets  are  rather  narrow  with  a  single  ear  track  on 
one  side,  the  cars  as  in  Lima  going  by  one  route  and  returning 
by  another  to  the  starting  point.  In  this  section  are  many 
excellent  shops  of  all  kinds,  the  hotels,  banks,  and  the  gov- 
ernment buildings.  Of  the  last  the  Capitol  is  naturally  the 
finest,  occupying  a  whole  square  a  little  west  of  the  Cathedral. 
On  two  sides  of  this  large  handsome  structure  are  beautifully 
kept  gardens,  with  magnolias,  heliotrope,  and  other  flowers. 
In  the  garden  on  the  east  front  is  a  beautiful  marble  madonna 
in  an  attitude  of  mourning  or  prayer,  with  four  kneeling  an- 
gels at  her  feet.  An  inscription  records  that  this  is  a  memo- 
rial to  the  victims  of  the  fire,  December  8,  1863,  witness  of  the 
undying  love  and  grief  of  the  people  ten  years  later.  Tlie 
church  of  the  Jesuits,  then  consumed  with  2000  victims,  for- 
merly stood  on  this  spot. 

Of  the  four  entrances,  this  on  the  east  is  to  the  Cdmara 
de  Diputados  above,  that  on  the  west  to  the  Cdmara  de  Sen- 
adores.  Both  Chambers  are  like  small  theaters  with  four  rows 
of  seats  raised  one  above  another,  each  with  a  small  table 
and  writing  material  in  front.  There  is  a  high  carved  dais 
for  the  President.  A  dome  of  colored  glass  forms  the  roof. 
In  the  Senatorial  Chamber  is  a  painting  by  Valenzuela  Llanos 


176  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

representing  the  first  Congress,  July  4,  1811,  held  in  the  Na- 
tional Library  near  by.  The  building  has  wide  marble 
staircases,  rooms  for  the  President,  for  secretaries,  some  de- 
signed for  discussion  and  conversation;  also  a  large  hand- 
some Congress  Hall  where  the  President  reads  his  message  at 
the  same  time  to  both  Houses,  and  to  the  Diplomats.  To 
the  two  galleries  of  the  hall,  friends  are  admitted  by  ticket 
for  the  opening  of  Congress,  an  impressive  and  ceremonious 
occasion.  This  building  is  heated  by  steam  pipes,  a  wonder- 
ful innovation,  making  it  comfortable  even  to  Americans. 

The  official  residence  of  the  President  is  in  the  Palacio  de 
la  Moneda  which  contains  also  his  offices  and  those  of  the 
Ministers  of  the  Interior,  Finance,  and  Foreign  Relations, 
as  well  as  the  quarters  of  the  Mint.  This  building,  between 
the  streets  Morande  and  Teatinos,  faces  the  Plaza  de  la 
Moneda,  which  is  ornamented  with  fountains  and  flower  beds, 
and  a  statue  of  an  able  Minister,  Don  Diego  Portales,  noted 
for  his  uprightness.  The  Palacio  with  its  two  large  patios 
occupies  an  entire  square.  By  a  curious  mistake  plans  de- 
signed for  a  Government  House  in  Mexico  City  were  sent 
here,  and  so  pleased  the  Chilians  that  they  decided  to  use 
them.  Opposite  the  Palace  on  the  north  side  of  the  Plaza 
is  the  Ministry  of  War  and  Marine;  on  the  west  side  is  the 
British  Legation.  The  United  States  Legation  is  well  located 
on  the  Alameda.  On  the  east  side  of  the  Palace  on  Morande 
street,  facing  the  entrance  to  the  Mint  is  the  Ministry  of 
Public  Works.  On  the  Plaza  Moneda  band  concerts  occur 
Tuesdays  and  Fridays  at  the  same  hours  as  those  on  the 
other  Plaza 

The  most  notable  street  in  the  city  is  the  Avenida  de  las 
DelicAas,  commonly  called  the  Alameda,  a  beautiful  park-like 
promenade  600  feet  wide,  extending  four  miles  from  beyond 
the  hill  park,  Santa  Lucia,  to  the  Quinta  Normal  and  Cen- 
tral Railway  Station.  Here  formerly  was  the  river  bed  of 
the  Mapocho,  now  farther  to  the  north.  The  transformation 
was  due  to  General  OHiggins.  The  central  parkway  has 
four  rows  of  trees,  oaks,  elms,  acacias,-  little  canals  of  running 
water  and  many  monuments  of  soldiers,  statesmen,  and  scien- 
tists of  Chile.  Next  to  the  parkway  on  each  side  are  electric 
tracks,  and  beyond,  broad  boulevards  for  carriages,  bor- 


SANTIAGO  177 

dered  by  wide  sidewalks  and  many  handsome  residences. 
Near  the  calle  Ahumada  stands  a  monument  to  the  brothers, 
Miguel  Luis  and  Gregorio  Victor  Amunategui,  the  elder,  a 
patriot  of  marked  distinction  in  civil  life  who  served  as  Min- 
ister under  several  administrations,  A  remarkable  speaker 
among  people  distinguished  for  their  oratory,  he  died  in  1888, 
greatly  mourned. 

Proceeding  down  the  Avenue  one  passes  a  bust  of  Abate 
Molina,  a  noted  naturalist  and  author  of  the  eighteenth  cen- 
tury. A  Natural  History  of  the  Country  of  Chile  was  his 
chief  work.  There  follows  a  bust  of  Jose  Miguel  Infante, 
a  great  philanthropist  who  was  one  of  the  foremost  in  the 
struggle  for  independence. 

Next  is  the  most  striking  of  the  memorials  in  the  Alameda, 
a  bronze  statue  of  General  Bernardo  O'Higgins  on  horse- 
back, represented  as  on  his  famous  retreat  from  Raneagua, 
Bernardo,  born  in  Chilian,  Chile,  and  educated  in  England, 
was  the  son  of  an  Irishman  Ambrose  O'Higgins  who  after 
living  some  time  in  Spain  settled  in  Chile,  where  he  was  made 
Governor  in  1778.  Bernardo  entering  the  army  in  1813  be- 
came commander,  and  as  previously  related  took  part  in  most 
of  the  revolutionary  struggles,  later  becoming  Supreme  Dic- 
tator. In  spite  of  an  excellent  administration,  after  a  few 
years  he  was  requested  to  resign,  which  he  promptly  and 
patriotically  did,  then  withdrawing  to  Peru.  Some  years 
later,  influenced  by  President  Bulnes,  the  Chilians  tardily 
recalled  the  disinterested  patriot  and  were  preparing  to  re- 
ceive him  with  due  honor  when,  as  about  to  set  out  on  his 
return,  in  1845  he  died.  In  1868  his  remains  were  brought 
back  by  a  Commission  of  the  Government  and  interred  in 
the  General  Cemetery. 

A  little  farther,  on  the  left,  stands  a  life  size  figure  of 
Carrera,  Jose  Miguel:  the  most  noted  of  three  brothers, 
ardent  patriots  in  the  struggle  for  independence,  but  of  mis- 
directed zeal;  all  three  executed  in  Mendoza  by  the  Argen- 
tines, Jose,  the  last,  without  a  trial,  Sept.  4, 1821.  The  bodies 
of  the  three  were  by  order  of  Congress  brought  in  1828  to 
Santiago  and  buried  in  the  Compania  Church. 

Some  distance  beyond  is  the  monument  of  another  general 
and  dictator,  Don  Ramon  Freire,  also  distinguished  in  the 


178  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

War  of  Independence  and  called  by  0  'Higgles,  the  bravest  of 
the  brave.  Later  engaging  in  civil  war  and  being  defeated 
in  the  battle  of  Lircai  in  1830,  he  too  went  to  Peru,  but  re- 
tained before  his  death  in  1853. 

The  next  monument,  between  calles  San  Martin  and  Manuel 
Rodriguez,  is  to  the  great  hero  who  is  honored  in  every  city, 
General  San  Martin,  sometimes  called  the  Hannibal  of  the 
Andes.  Though  receiving  scant  honor  in  his  later  life,  after 
his  death  in  1850  his  memory  was  cherished.  This  bronze 
equestrian  statue,  erected  by  public  subscription  in  1863, 
represents  the  hero  holding  a  flag  which  is  surmounted  by 
a  small  figure  of  Liberty. 

Beyond  this  point,  the  Alameda  is  still  wider,  with  flower 
beds  and  shrubs  beautifying  the  central  promenade.  On  the 
right  is  a  statue  to  the  grandson  of  an  Irishman,  Don  Ben- 
jamin Vicuna  Mackenna,  a  distinguished  historian  who  initi- 
ated many  important  works  for  the  improvement  of  the  city; 
the  enclosing  with  stone  embankment  the  Mapocho  River,  the 
adornment  of  Santa  Lucia,  and  the  idea  of  encircling  the 
city  by  a  belt  of  trees  to  prevent  straggling  and  undue  ex- 
tension. His  death  occurred  in  1889. 

Between  the  streets  Ejereito  and  Almirante  is  a  statue 
unusual  if  not  unique  in  character,  being  erected  by  the  cit- 
izens of  Santiago  in  honor  of  the  city  of  Buenos  Aires.  The 
last  monument  is  an  obelisk  to  the  memory  of  four  writers 
of  the  Revolutionary  period. 


CHAPTER  XIX 
SANTIAGO--CONTINIJED 

IN  all  Spanish  American  countries  the  parks  are  an  im- 
portant feature.  In  some  respects  the  most  beautiful,  and  one 
absolutely  unique  in  character,  is  that  of  Santa  Luoia,  which, 
however  highly  praised,  is  almost  certain  to  surpass  expecta- 
tion. The  last  of  a  row  of  detached  hills,  it  made  in  the 
early  days  a  splendid  stronghold  against  the  Indians.  When 
no  longer  needed  as  a  fort  it  became  a  quarry,  then  a  burial 
ground  for  Jews,  infidels,  and  Protestants,  whose  bones 
would  have  defiled  the  consecrated  ground  of  the  Catholic 
Cemetery.  But  in  1872  these  were  removed  to  the  new  Prot- 
estant Cemetery  by  the  side  of  that  occupied  by  the  faithful, 
and  the  hill  was  converted  into  a  wonderfully  beautiful  park. 
About  three-quarters  of  a  mile  southeast  of  the  Plaza  de 
Armas,  it  is  a  pleasant  walk,  or  it  may  be  reached  by  several 
lines  of  cars.  Covering  a  surface  of  six  or  seven  acres  it 
rises  in  irregular,  jagged,  sometimes  perpendicular  walls, 
gradually  narrowing  to  a  pavilion-covered  summit  400  feet 
above,  whence  on  a  clear  day,  and  especially  at  sunset,  there 
is  an  enchanting  view.  The  city  is  spread  out  below,  distinct 
in  every  feature,  surrounded  by  the  broad  expanse  of  fertile 
plain  40  miles  long  and  18  wide,  fringed  by  ranges  of  steep 
hills  and  mountains,  the  latter  on  the  east  snow-crowned  and 
forming  a  splendid  rampart  15,000  feet  tall.  Aconcagua, 
visible  from  the  sea  and  from  Valparaiso,  is  unseen  here  on 
account  of  the  nearer  approach  to  the  lower  peaks  in  front, 
behind  which  it  disappears  from  view.  As  often  as  time 
permits  will  those  who  delight  in  nature's  beauty  climb  this 
hill  (splendid  exercise,  too)  to  see  the  sunset  glow  on  the  snow- 
capped mountains,  especially  when  a  slightly  clouded  sky 
gives  assurance  of  lovely  hues  and  the  certainty  of  a  truly 
enchanting  scene. 

Almost  as  beautiful  to  look  at  as  to  look  from  is  this  Cerro 

179 


180  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUK 

which  natural  and  artificial  charms  render  unique  among  all 
cities.  Embellished  by  public  and  private  munificence, 
especially  by  Benjamin  Mackenna,  the  hill  is  a  mass  of  green 
and  blossoms,  luxuriant  graceful  vines,  shrubs,  and  trees, 
among  which  are  glimpses  of  stairs  and  roadways,  rock  cliffs 
and  walls,  towers  and  battlements,  chapels  and  monuments, 
the  whole  a  combination  of  exceeding  loveliness. 

The  most  imposing  entrance  to  this  hill  park  i&  from  the 
Plaza  Vicuna  Mackenna  near  the  Alameda,  where  stands  a 
recently  erected  statue  of  the  gentleman,  a  fine  bronze  figure, 
at  its  foot  a  seated  Fame  holding  in  her  hand  a  wreath  of 
laurel.  Entering  the  carriage  drive  (fee  5  centavos  for  a 
pedestrian,  40  centavos  for  a  carriage)  a  large  brass  plate  may 
be  noticed,  a  memorial  to  Mackenna,  here  placed  by  the  city. 
On  a  great  boulder  back  of  this  is  a  bronze  Flora  or  Mel- 
pomene with  inscription  giving  the  date  of  the  inauguration 
of  the  Park,  Sept.  17, 1874.  On  the  other  side  of  the  boulder 
is  inscribed  Huelen,  the  ancient  Indian  name  for  the  hill, 
signifying  misfortune  or  sorrow,  a  curious  name  for  so  superb 
a  feature  of  the  landscape.  A  little  farther  are  two  bronze 
lions,  copies  of  the  famous  ones  at  Florence.  Beyond  the  next 
corner  of  the  winding  road  is  the  foundation  stone  of  an  old 
Spanish  bridge  formerly  stretching  to  the  inscribed  boulder. 
Built  in  1787  it  was  destroyed  in  1888.  Halfway  up  the  hill 
is  a  small  door  in  a  perpendicular  rock  wall,  the  entrance  to 
the  Seismological  Observatory,  where  record  is  made  of  the 
numerous  'quakes,  and  of  the  observations  conducted  by  M.  le 
Conde  de  Montessus  Ballores.  A  little  higher  the  carriage 
road  ends  on  a  wide  terrace  in  front  of  a  spacious  restaurant, 
well  patronized  for  dining,  especially  during  the  summer,  when 
an  orchestra  discourses  sweet  music.  At  the  left  of  the  road 
is  a  slab  commemorating  the  removal  of  the  bones  of  the 
heretics  once  buried  here.  The  inscription  reads:  "In  mem- 
ory of  those  exiled  from  Heaven  and  Earth  who  in  this  place 
lay  buried  for  half  a  century,  1820-1872." 

Beyond  one  must  proceed  on  foot.  On  attaining  the  sum- 
mit, having  viewed  with  admiration  the  lovely  prospect,  one 
may  notice  close  at  hand,  a  little  below,  a  castellated  gateway, 
above  which  is  an  ancient  Spanish  escutcheon  here  found  bur- 
ied. From  the  gateway  a  narrow  flight  of  steps  leads  to 


PALACE   OF    FIXE   ARTS 


ENTRANCE    TO    PAUQITE.,     SANTA     LUCIA 


SANTIAGO  181 

a  small  chapel  where  Benj.  Mackenna  is  interred  and  where 
services  are  held  on  the  anniversary  of  his  death.  Looking 
over  the  parapet  one  may  see  below  the  remnants  of  an  old 
gateway  surmounted  by  two  small  Spanish  guns.  A  little 
farther  down  is  a  monument  to  the  first  archbishop  of  San- 
tiago. The  statue  of  Pedro  de  Yaldivia,  on  the  spot  where 
he  built  his  fort,  deserves  especial  heed.  The  inscription 
reads:  "The  valiant  Captain  of  Estremadura,  first  Governor 
of  Chile,  who  in  this  very  spot  encamped  his  band  of  150 
conquerors,  Dec.  13,  1540.  Giving  to  these  rocks  the  name 
of  Santa  Lucia  and  forming  of  them  a  bastion  he  planned 
and  founded  the  city  of  Santiago,  Feb.  12,  1541. "  To  see 
all  the  points  of  beauty  and  interest  one  must  ramble  on 
foot  by  the  pretty  paths  leading  in  every  direction  to  charm- 
ing nooks  or  delightful  outlooks.  At  noon  a  cannon  at  the 
summit  of  the  hill  is  daily  discharged  by  electricity  from  the 
Observatory  in  the  Quinta  Normal  on  the  other  side  of  the 
city.  A  second  and  less  picturesque  entrance  to  the  Park, 
affording  a  more  gradual  ascent  is  well  enough  to  leave  by, 
but  is  not  a  suitable  introduction  to  this  genuine  fairy  land. 
Very  different,  and  more  like  any  other,  is  the  Parque 
Cousino  several  miles  distant.  To  see  this  at  its  best,  one 
should  go  in  carriage  or  auto  together  with  the  fashionables, 
between  the  hours  of  5  and  7.30  p.  m.,  when,  particularly  in 
the  months  September  to  December  inclusive,  it  is  thronged 
with  fine  horses  and  carriages,  bearing  the  beauty  and  fashion 
of  Santiago.  Woods,  pleasant  walks,  well  kept  gardens, 
beautiful  shrubs,  weeping  willows  drooping  over  a  pretty 
lake,  adorn  the  park;  a  good  restaurant  provides  almuerzo, 
afternoon  tea,  and  dinner,  the  latter  at  four  pesos,  well  pat- 
ronized and  usually  accompanied  by  music.  There  are  cheap 
cafes,  merry-go-rounds,  and  stands  for  dancing,  where  on  Sun- 
day may  be  seen  the  peculiar  national  dance  of  the  Indians, 
La  Cwca,  where  the  couples  face  each  other,  handkerchief  in 
hand,  and  dance  with  swaying  gestures.  In  summer  a  bio- 
graph  is  usually  in  operation  and  twice  a  week  a  military  band 
plays  from  9  to  11  p.  m.,  when  the  park  is  often  crowded. 
Near  the  entrance  is  a  large  open  grass  plot  with  a  pavilion 
in  the  center,  where  a  Military  Review  takes  place  Sept.  19. 
Bicycle  races  and  football  games  are  sports  of  the  youthful 


182  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUB 

Chilians,  who  take  more  kindly  to  athletics  than  the  young 
men  of  some  other  countries.  A  lawn  tennis  club  also  is 
found  here.  The  electric  ears  numbered  19  come  to  the 
restaurant  in  the  park,  number  18  to  the  gate  only. 

This  Park  was  presented  to  the  city  by  the  famous  Senora 
Isadora  Cousiiio,  who  was  the  richest  woman  in  Chile  before 
her  marriage  to  the  richest  man  in  the  country.  He,  dying, 
left  all  his  property  to  her,  as  it  was  said  that  she  had  ad- 
ministered her  estate  better  than  £e  had  his.  The  Senora, 
now  deceased,  being  worth  many  millions  in  mines,  railroads, 
steamships,  cattle,  and  real  estate,  was  a  woman  of  so  lavish 
expenditures  as  to  cause  much  gossip  even  in  Europe.  Her 
residence  in  Santiago,  of  the  Ionic  order  of  architecture,  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  South  America.  It  was  decorated  by  the 
French  artists  who  adorned  the  Paris  Opera  House.  Her 
magnificent  palace  at  Loti,  unfortunately  incomplete,  would 
undoubtedly  surpass  anything  at  Newport.  Outside  San- 
tiago she  had  an  immense  hacienda  extending  to  the  moun- 
tains. 

Another  large  park  of  different  character,  at  the  west  of  the 
town,  reached  by  Car  No.  2  from  the  Plaza  de  Armas,  is  called 
the  Quinta  Normal:  a  particularly  desirable  place  for  a  drive, 
as  the  buildings  here  are  at  a  considerable  distance  apart. 
The  fine  trees  in  this  section,  the  green  fields  of  the  Agricul- 
tural College,  and  the  Botanical  Garden  are  a  pleasure  to 
see.  Some  persons  may  be  interested,  after  driving  about,  to 
visit  the  Agricultural  College,  the  Astronomical  Observatory, 
the  Meteorological  Station,  and  the  Riding  School.  The  Col- 
lege established  in  1845  by  President  Bulnes  has  been  of  much 
benefit.  A  cattle  show  is  held  here  annually.  The  Botwical 
Garden,  though  not  large,  deserves  a  visit.  It  has  some  fine 
specimens  of  the  Victoria  Eegia  and  other  aquatic  plants, 
with  a  nice  old  German  in  charge.  Apart  from  this  garden 
is  a  nursery  where  flowers,  shrubs,  and  plants  of  great  variety 
are  grown  for  the  stocking  of  public  gardens  and  parks. 
The  Zoological  Garden  in  this  quarter  does  not  amount  to 
much  beyond  presenting  many  natives  of  Chile;  condors, 
eagles,  vultures,  with  others,  in  an  aviary  of  Chilian  birds; 
and  domestic  animals  including  some  fine  fowls.  There  are 
a  few  bears  and  monkeys. 


SANTIAGO  183 

The  Natural  History  Museum,  also  in  this  Qninta  (north 
side),  contains  a  very  complete  collection  of  Chilian  birds, 
fishes,  insects,  and  plants,  made  chiefly  by  a  celebrated  Ger- 
man naturalist,  Dr.  Otto  Philippi.  Another  section  of  greater 
interest  to  many,  contains  Indian  mummies,  specimens  of  pot- 
tery, weapons,  and  relics  of  colonial  days.  In  1911"  the 
Museum  was  open  Sundays  and  Thursdays  from  10  a.  m.  to 
5  p.  m.,  but  was  expected  later  to  be  open  daily.  A  good 
restaurant  pleasantly  situated  and  well  patronized  is  opposite 
the  ealle  Catedral  not  far  from  the  Museum.  An  entire  day 
is  not  too  much  to  devote  to  seeing  the  Quinta  by  persons  with 
taste  for  these  matters,  in  which  ease  the  restaurant  would  be 
serviceable.  The  School  of  Arts  and  Trades  for  the  training 
of  mechanics  and  tradesmen  is  located  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Quinta  not  far  from  the  Central  Station. 

Beyond  the  Parque  Cousino  is  the  Club  Hipico  or  race 
course  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  with  fine  views  of  the  Coast 
Cordilleras  and  the  Andes.  Sunday  afternoons  and  feast 
days  races  are  held  beginning  at  1.30,  but  most  persons  do  not 
arrive  until  four.  From  August  to  the  end  of  December  the 
whole  city,  meaning  of  course  Society,  is  said  weekly  to  as- 
semble there.  In  the  Diez  y  ocho  week,  from  the  17th  to  the 
20th  of  September,  it  is  difficult  to  get  near  the  Pavilion. 
There  is  a  special  enclosure  for  members,  and  behind  the 
Pavilion  are  little  gardens  where  people  go  to  take  tea  and 
meet  their  friends.  Tickets,  three  pesos  to  the  pavilion,  five 
more  to  enter  the  paddock,  may  be  bought  after  7  p.  m.  Sat- 
urdays at  the  Cigarria  La  France,  Portal  Fernandez  Concha, 
18;  in  the  Centro  Hipico,  Pasaje  Balmaceda,  an  arcade  run- 
ning from  Huerf anos  to  the  Plaza ;  or  at  the  entrance  of  the 
enclosure.  Races  on  Saturday,  frequented  more  by  sporting 
men  than  by  Society,  are  at  the  Hipodromo  on  the  north  side 
of  the  river. 

Along  the  bank  of  the  Mapocho  is  another  park,  long  and 
narrow,  called  the  Forestal,  which  with  the  embankment  and 
bridges  forms  a  very  pretty  section  of  the  city.  At  one  end, 
in  the  Plaza  Italia  or  Colon,  is  a  monument  presented  to  the 
city  by  the  Italian  colonists  as  a  centenary  gift,  and  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  beautiful  Palace  of  Arts,  in  the  Plaza 
France,  is  one  similarly  presented  by  the  French  colony.  The 


184  THE  SOUTH  AMEKICAN  TOUE 

Pdlacio  de  Bellas  Artes  has  a  great  Statuary  Hall  with  some 
fine  copies  and  the  best  original  work  of  native  Chilians. 
Nine  spacious  rooms  contain  a  collection  of  paintings,  includ- 
ing some  originals  of  old  masters  and  many  "by  modern  Chilian 
artists.  The  arrangement  of  the  building  is  excellent  and  the 
whole  is  a  great  credit  to  the  city.  A  smaller  park  is  the 
Plaza  de  Montt-Varas  in  the  calle  Compania  between  Bandera 
and  Morande,  on  one  side  of  which  is  the  fine  new  Palace  of 
Justice  occupying  a  whole  block  In  the  park  is  a  statue  of 
a  scholar,  a  native  of  Venezuela,  Don  Andres  Bello,  a  seated 
figure  by  Don  Nieenor  Plaza.  Bello,  1789-1865,  was  so  highly 
regarded  by  the  Chilians  that  they  declared  him  by  works  and 
public  services  to  be  a  true  Chilian,  and  by  a  special  law  of 
Congress  declared  him  a  citizen.  Another  statue  is  of  two 
friends  from  college  days,  Don  Manuel  Montt,  ten  years  Presi- 
dent of  Chile,  and  Don  Antonio  Varas,  who  worked  together 
to  promote  the  welfare  of  the  country. 

Housed  in  the  old  Congress  Hall  on  Catedral  street  is  the 
National  Library  which,  with  many  books,  contains  a  valuable 
collection  of  historical  documents,  some  of  these,  spoils  brought 
from  Lima,  and  others,  their  own  colonial  archives:  a  place 
of  much  interest  to  the  scholar  and  antiquarian. 

The  Market,  seldom  a  show  place  in  cities  of  the  United 
States,  everywhere  in  South  America  is  an  object  of  interest. 
Here  it  was  one  of  the  benefactions  of  Benj.  Mackenna.  Best 
seen  early  Sunday  morning,  it  may  be  reached  by  following 
the  21st  of  May  street  from  the  northeast  corner  of  the  Plaza. 
Besides  the  usual  and  i/raisual  profusion  of  fruits,  vegetables, 
flowers,  etc.,  may  here  be  found  tiny  baskets  made  by  nuns, 
and  little  jugs  of  earthenware  and  mates,  some  extremely 
minute.  Another  market  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  is 
especially  for  vegetables. 

A  visit  to  the  Municipal  Theater  or  Opera  House  should 
not  be  omitted.  Erected  as  long  ago  as  1873,  it  probably 
surpasses  anything  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States,  certainly 
presenting  a  finer  exterior.  An  imposing  entrance  hall  has 
wide  staircases  leading  to  the  upper  row  of  boxes.  The 
Presidential  box  is  large  and  elegantly  furnished  with  recep- 
tion rooms,  etc.,  at  the  back,  and  a  box  for  Ms  lady  guests 
below.  There  is  a  large  foyer  and  refreshment  rooms,  and 


SANTIAGO  185 

there  are  seats  for  an  audience  of  4000.  The  opera  season, 
though  short,  is  brilliant,  with  a  company  every  year  brought 
from  Italy  for  a  month  or  more.  Society  is  present  in  full 
force  in  immaculate  evening  dress,  gorgeous  gowns,  and 
sparkling  jewels,  a  spectacle  of  beauty,  it  is  said,  equaling 
that  in  any  opera  house  of  the  world. 

Santiago  has  many  beautiful  homes  and  pleasing  residences, 
though  less  in  the  pure  Spanish  style  than  in  Peru:  fewer 
wide  doorways  admitting  horsemen,  and  apparently  smaller 
patios,  of  which  one  has  but  a  rare  glimpse.  Among  notice- 
ably fine  residences  are  the  Cousino  on  Diez  y  ocho,  the  Ed- 
wards on  Catedral,  corner  Morande,  the  Uinzneta,  Monjitas 
street;  on  the  Alameda,  the  Concha  y  Toro  between  Brazil  and 
San  Miguel,  the  Ramon  Valdez  between  18  and  Castro,  and 
the  Quinta  Meiggs  between  Republica  and  Espana,  this  hav- 
ing fifty  or  more  rooms  with  elaborate  furnishings. 

An  excursion  which  may  be  made  by  carriage,  or  by  a  good 
walker  on  foot,  is  to  the  top  of  Cerro  San  Christobal,  900  feet 
above  the  city.  A  more  superb  view  than  from  Santa  Lucia 
is  here  afforded.  At  this  point  of  vantage  is  an  Observatory, 
a  branch  of  the  noted  Lick  Observatory  of  California.  It  is 
in  charge  of  an  American,  Dr.  Moore,  and  was  established  by 
the  late  D.  O.  Mills.  Lower  down  on  a  prominent  bluff  is  a 
colossal  Image  of  the  Virgin  with  arms  outstretched  towards 
the  city  as  if  in  blessing.  The  pedestal  contains  a  small 
chapel  in  which  services  are  held  December  8,  the  anniver- 
sary of  her  festival.  On  this  night  the  statue,  which  with  its 
pedestal  is  70  feet  high,  is  illuminated  so  as  to  be  visible  to 
the  whole  city.  It  is  said  to  have  been  erected  by  women  as  a 
token  of  gratitude  for  their  preservation  from  the  earthquake, 
and  also  to  celebrate  the  jubilee  of  the  declaration  of  the 
Immaculate  Conception. 

The  most  important  feature  of  the  city  to  be  visited,  aside 
from  Santa  Lucia,  is, — the  Cemetery.  Let  no  one  be  surprised 
and  say  that  he  does  not  care  to  visit  such  places.  There  are 
other  cathedrals,  plazas,  public  buildings,  etc.,  but  this  again 
is  unique  and  in  many  respects  the  most  beautiful  resting 
place  for  the  dead  that  I  have  seen  in  any  land;  especially  in 
November,  the  month  of  roses.  A  French  lady  resident,  who 
not  find  much  else  to  please  her,  was  most  enthusiastic 


186  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

over  this.    It  may  be  reached  by  Car  No.  8  from  the  Plaza 
de  Armas.    In  front  of  the  cemetery  is  a  semi-circular  plaza 
with  a  colonnade.    The  gateway  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty 
dome,  which  bears  a  fine  colossal  group  of  statuary,  Adam  and 
Eve  mourning  the  death  of  Abel.    The  whole  effect  is  im- 
posing.   In  the  corridors  of  the  entrance  may  be  noticed  the 
painted  ceilings,  and  passing  within  one  will  observe  a  stately 
chapel  where  masses  are  said  for  the  repose  of  the  dear  de- 
parted.   Here  in  truth  is  a  city  of  the  dead,  with  streets  laid 
out  at  right  angles,  many  of  these  lined  with  beautiful  houses, 
rows  and  rows  of  chapel-like  tombs.     In  other  places  are 
statues,  columns,  and  memorials  in  various  forms.    Some  of 
the  avenues  are  shaded  by  orange  trees,  magnolias,  and  the 
Jaearanda  or  Brazilian  rosewood;  others  have  the  tall,  stately, 
and  more  gloomy  cypress;  but  when  the  roses  blossom  there  is 
such  a  wealth  of  these  that  there  is  no  gloom  anywhere.    They 
are  of  various  kinds  and  colors,  but  most  numerous,  genuine 
large  white  roses  which  grow  in  great  vines  sometimes  on 
trees  to  a  height  of  thirty  feet,  or  over  the  tombs,  forming  the 
most  lovely  framework  imaginable.    At  the  festival  of  All 
Saints,  November  1,  the  sight  is  unequaled  in  any  part  of  the 
world,  as  here  this  is  at  the  height  of  the  rose  season,  when 
there  is  also  a  profusion  of  other  flowers.    The  immense  masses 
of  bouquets  and  floral  devices  of  all  Mnds  then  placed  upon 
the  tombs  and  graves,  even  the  poorest  on  account  of  the  small 
cost  of  flowers  being  able  to  contribute,  make  of  the  already 
delightful  spot  a  veritable  floral  bower.    Among  noticeable 
monuments  are  a  bronze  bust,  near  the  entrance,  on  a  black 
marble  column,  to  the  litterateur,  Andres  Bello ;  in  the  calle 
Central  in  the  rear  of  the  chapel  is  the  white  marble  tomb 
of  General  Bernardo  O'Higgins.    Fifty  yards  to  the  right  and 
then  turning  to  the  left,  one  finds  the  memorial  erected  over 
the  remains  of  more  than  2000  victims  of  the  holocaust  in  the 
Jesuit  Church,  the  Compania,  Dee.  8,  1863,  when  a  gorgeous 
fete  to  the  Virgin  was  in  progress.    The  decorations  of  paper 
flowers  and  festoons  of  gauze  which  were  interspersed  with 
lighted  candles,  taking  fire,  fell  among  the  crowd,   chiefly 
women  of  the  higher  classes  who  thronged  the  church.    The 
doors  opening  inward,  the  crowds,  packed  against  them,  made 
egress  impossible,  and  nearly  3000  are  said  to  have  perished. 


FALACIO  DB   LA   MONEDA 


CE1IETEET    I2ST   HOSE    TIME 


SANTIAGO  187 

Few  of  the  leading  families  escaped  bereavement  and  since  that 
time  this  festival  has  been  solemnized  with  mourning. 

The  tombs  of  many  of  the  Presidents  are  found  on  a  street 
of  that  name,  and  on  the  Magnolia  are  many  of  real  beauty 
belonging  to  some  of  the  leading  families.  In  the  high  wall 
of  the  enclosure  which  covers  many  acres  are  niches  for  the 
reception  of  the  coffins  of  the  poorer  people.  At  the  left  of 
the  General  Cemetery  as  one  faces  the  entrance  from  without 
is  that  where  the  Protestants  are  buried,  naturally  much 
smaller  and  far  less  attractive. 

On  the  way  to  the  Cemetery  one  may  pass  on  the  Avendia 
Eecoleta  the  Church  of  the  Eecoleta  Dominica  which  deserves 
a  call.  The  f  agade  presents  a  fine  row  of  marble  columns,  the 
only  edifice  in  the  city  furnished  with  such  decoration.  The 
doors  are  of  carved  wood.  The  interior  is  severely  beautiful, 
avoiding  the  tawdriness  exhibited  in  many  Catholic  churches. 
There  are  double  rows  of  handsome  marble  columns  with 
Corinthian  capitals,  a  white  marble  chancel  screen  of  trellis 
work,  and  above  the  high  altar  a  marble  Madonna  del  Eosario. 
The  marble,  imported  from  Italy,  was  brought  in  ox-carts 
from  the  coast.  Pretty  cloisters  are  adjoining. 

In  the  same  avenue  a  little  nearer  the  city,  at  the  foot  of 
Cerro  Blanco,  is  a  small  church  rather  dilapidated,  La  Vinita; 
of  historical  interest  as  erected  by  Ines  Juarez,  who  came 
with  Pedro  de  Valdivia,  a  woman  of  extraordinary  courage 
both  for  enduring  the  hard  life,  and  even  going  into  battle ;  if 
necessary  engaging  in  combat,  when  not  attending  to  the 
wounded  of  both  parties. 

Santiago  is  an  extremely  religious  place,  so  far  at  least 
as  the  women  are  concerned,  the  gentlemen  often  being  in- 
clined to  agnosticism.  Among  the  many  churches  the  most 
important  may  be  mentioned.  La  Merced  at  the  corner  of 
Merced  and  Claras  is  painted  a  pale  pink  and  has  two  towers. 
At  the  main  entrance  on  Claras,  on  each  side  of  the  carved 
wooden  doors  are  two  life-size  paintings,  on  the  right,  of 
Eamon  Monato,  on  the  left,  of  San  Pedro  Nolasco  who  founded 
the  Order  Mercedarios.  Within,  the  objects  of  interest  are 
a  wooden  crucifix  with  notably  expressive  eyes,  a  gift  from 
Philip  II  of  Spain  to  the  Order  in  Chile,  an  antique  frame  of 
solid  silver  near  the  High  Altar  enclosing  a  statue  of  the 


188  THE  SOUTH  AMEKICAN  TOUE 

Virgin,  and  an  old  pulpit  of  native  workmanship  carved 
from  a  single  tree  trunk.  The  four  Evangelists  are  repre- 
sented and  at  the  base  the  four  Symbols.  The  church  has 
an  excellent  organ  and  is  famed  for  its  fine  music. 

The  Santo  Domingo,  one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  Santiago, 
at  the  corner  of  Santo  Domingo  and  the  21  de  Mayo,  has  a 
beautiful  silver  altar  exhibited  on  especial  occasions  only. 
The  little  plaza  in  front  is  gay  with  a  small  flower  market, 
and  nearly  opposite  on  Santo  Domingo  is  an  old  Spanish 
gateway. 

The  San  Pedro  is  a  pretty  little  church  in  Claras  near  by. 

The  large  church  of  San  Augustin,  fronting  on  the  Estado 
has  a  ceiling  covered  with  pictures  of  Saints,  Prophets, 
Martyrs,  and  also  the  Ten  Commandments.  A  valued  relic 
is  a  crucifix,  concerning  which  it  is  related  that  in  the  total 
destruction  of  the  church  by  an  earthquake  in  1730  this  suf- 
fered no  injury  except  that  the  crown  of  thorns  fell  from 
the  head  to  the  neck,  and  that  whenever  an  attempt  was  made 
to  replace  the  crown  shocks  occurred  in  the  vicinity;  it  there- 
fore remains  where  it  fell.  On  the  anniversary,  May  13,  oc- 
curs a  great  procession  of  monks  and  acolytes  of  various  Or- 
ders, chanting,  swinging  incense;  and  with  lighted  candles, 
bearing  beautifully  embroidered  banners,  a  robed  figure  of  the 
Virgin,  and  the  Crucifix. 

El  Salvador,  church  of  the  Jesuits,  erected  after  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  Compafda  in  1863,  is  on  the  Huerfanos  and  Alrnir- 
ante  Barroso,  passed  by  Car  21.  This  church  was  damaged 
by  the  earthquake  of  1906,  though  Santiago  was  far  less  af- 
fected than  Valparaiso.  The  interior  is  gay  with  colors, 
each  pillar  being  composed  of  small  columns  of  various  hues, 
which  are  covered  with  designs  in  red,  blue,  and  gold.  An 
angel  at  the  foot  of  each  column  holds  a  plaque  with  em- 
blems of  the  Passion.  Handsome  stained  glass  windows 
portray  scenes  from  the  life  of  Christ. 

The  San  Francisco  in  the  Alameda,  almost  opposite  calle 
San  Antonio,  said  to  have  been  built  by  Valdivia,  is  plain 
with  a  flat  ceiling  and  one  simple  arch.  All  around  are  memo- 
rial tablets :  on  the  left  of  the  chancel  is  a  fine  marble  Crucifix 
in  relief.  Of  great  interest  as  a  historical  relic,  over  the  High 
Altar  is  the  wooden  image  of  the  Virgin  in  velvet  robes  em- 


SANTIAGO  189 

broidered  with  gold,  which  Valdivia  used  to  carry  in  his 
saddle-bags.  Presented  to  the  church  by  the  brave  Captain, 
it  is  highly  valued.  On  the  right  of  the  altar  is  a  small 
chapel  to  St.  Anthony,  on  the  extreme  left,  one  to  Our  Lady, 
with  altar  of  colored  marbles  and  two  angels  above. 

The  University  of  CJiUe  may  be  visited  by  those  interested 
in  educational  matters.  It  has  several  departments,  the  main 
building  on  the  Alameda,  occupying  the  block  between  San 
Diego  and  Arturo  Prat.  Here  are  the  general  offices,  the 
University  Library  and  the  Department  of  Physical  and 
Natural  Sciences  termed  the  Engineering  School.  A  hall 
in  the  form  of  a  theater  is  in  the  part  of  the  building  which 
separates  the  two  patios.  A  new  Engineering  building  in 
the  suburbs  was  to  receive  this  Department,  then  to  be  re- 
placed by  the  Law  School,  the  largest  of  the  various  branches. 
In  the  Quinta  Normal  is  the  building  of  the  Medical  School 
with  handsome  classical  fagade,  containing  large  halls,  and 
patios  ornamented  with  shrubs  and  flowers.  There  is  a  mod- 
ern building  for  the  Dental  School  and  an  annex  for  Phar- 
macy. It  is  interesting  to  note  that  in  most  of  the  South 
American  countries  coeducation  is  rigorously  avoided  in  the 
lower  schools  while  permitted  in  most  of  the  universities, 
conditions  exactly  opposite  to  those  in  some  parts  of  the 
United  States.  A  good  number  of  women  in  Chile  study 
medicine,  dentistry,  pharmacy,  etc.,  with  the  men. 

The  Military  School  on  the  Avenue  Blanco  Encalada  facing 
the  Diez  y  oeho  now  occupies  a  fine  large  building  after  a 
checkered  career.  Founded  March  16, 1817,  by  the  Supreme 
Director  Bernardo  O'Higgins,  it  is  the  oldest  in  South  Amer- 
ica, though  it  has  experienced  several  interraptions.  The 
present  edifice  was  decreed  in  1887  by  the  progressive  but 
unfortunate  President  Balmaeeda,  though  not  until  1903  did 
it  become  established  as  now  existing.  The  school  has  as 
its  head  a  German  officer,  Col.  Alfred  Schoenmeyer,  and  pro- 
vides courses  of  instruction  similar  to  those  in  the  German 
institutions.  The  building  contains  all  suitable  conditions 
of  convenience  and  hygiene,  a  covered  riding  school,  shooting 
galleries,  patio  facilities  for  gymnastics,  laboratories  of  science 
and  of  military  models. 

The  Military  Museum?  in  1911  housed  in  the  Arsenales  de 


190  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Cfuerra  next  to  the  Military  School,  by  1913  will  probably  be 
removed  to  a  new  building  erected  for  it  in  the  Quinta  Normal. 
It  contains  many  historical  relics:  the  armor  worn  by  Val- 
divia  during  the  conquest,  a  chair  which  he  occasionally  used 
in  the  brief  intervals  from  fighting,  cannon  brought  over  the 
Andes  by  Gen.  San  Martin  to  aid  in  freeing  the  country  of 
Spanish  dominion ;  a  marble  urn  enclosing  the  hearts  of  four 
heroes  who  fell  in  the  battle  of  Concepcion  in  the  effort  to 
save  the  Chilian  colors  from  the  hands  of  their  Peruvian 
opponents ;  the  flag  of  the  Esmeralda,  commanded  by  Arturo 
Prat,  and  sunk  in  the  battle  of  Iquique  May  21,  1879;  a 
marble  bust  of  Manuel  Rodriguez  who,  in  the  "War  of  Inde- 
pendence, among  other  brave  deeds  as  scout  and  spy,  three 
times  crossed  the  Andes  on  foot;  other  objects  of  interest,  be- 
sides cannon,  flags,  arms,  and  trophies  won  in  many  a  fierce 
battle. 


CHAPTER  XX 
SANTIAGO  TO  BUENOS  AIRES  BY  SEA 

Southern  Chile  and  the  Straits  of  Magellan.  The  great 
majority  of  tourists  will  proceed  from  Santiago  by  rail  over 
mountains  and  plains  to  Buenos  Aires,  being  influenced 
thereto  by  several  considerations.  Of  these  the  strongest  may 
be  the  fact  that  the  journey  thus  made  occupies  only  48  hours 
(the  return  38),  while  by  sea  it  requires  twelve  days,  an 
important  consideration  in  a  brief  tour.  Also  in  view  of  the 
several  weeks  already  spent  on  the  ocean  and  the  several 
more  to  come,  all  but  the  real  lover  of  steamboat  travel  will 
prefer  the  land  for  a  change,  especially  with  the  prospect  of 
the  fine  mountain  scenery  always  visible  on  the  Trans- Andine 
journey  and  the  possibility  of  a  glimpse  of  mighty  Aconcagua, 
which  still  claims  pre-eminence  as  the  culminating  point  of  the 
Western  Hemisphere. 

On  the  other  hand  the  route  across  the  Andes,  formerly 
blocked  to  general  traffic  for  half  the  year  by  reason  of  the 
winter  snows,  may  yet  be  impassable  for  a  week  or  two,  even 
longer,  by  reason  of  the  great  avalanches  which  on  the  Chilian 
side  of  the  tunnel  are  liable  in  winter  or  spring  to  obstruct 
the  track.  "When  such  a  condition  prevails,  the  longer  way 
around  may  (rarely)  become  the  shorter  in  time.  A  few  will 
at  any  period  prefer  the  Magellan  route  from  inability  to 
endure  the  10,000  feet  altitude  of  the  mountain  journey,  from 
affection  for  the  sea,  or  from  an  especial  desire  to  traverse  the 
famous  Straits,  discovered  by  Magellan  in  1520  on  the  first 
around-the-world  voyage,  and  to  pass  the  southern  continental 
limit  of  the  main  land  if  not  the  dreaded  Cape  Horn. 

The  leisurely  tourist  who  desires  to  see  everything  of  im- 
portance may  enjoy  the  chief  pleasures  of  both  routes :  going 
by  rail  to  Puente  del  Inca  on  the  east  side  of  the  mountain, 
or  better,  on  to  Mendoza  on  the  edge  of  the  great  Argentine 

191 


192  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

plain,  returning  to  Chile  by  the  old  route,  the  splendid  horse- 
back and  former  diligence  trail  from  Las  Cuevas  over  the 
once  frequented  pass.  Thus  he  may  delight  in  near  and  dis- 
tant views  of  splendid  cliffs  and  mountains,  and  pause  to 
contemplate  among  the  everlasting  hills  the  impressive  image 
of  a  colossal  Christ  standing  on  the  frontier  of  two  great 
countries,  an  emblem  of  the  eternal  peace  and  friendship  to 
which  these  nations  have  sworn. 

The  tourist  who  always  prefers  to  travel  by  sea  may  at 
Valparaiso  take  a  P.  S.  N.  steamer  (they  sail  once  in  two 
weeks)  for  Montevideo,  where  he  must  change  for  the  short 
run  to  Buenos  Aires.  All  of  these  boats  call  on  the  way  at 
Coponel  (or  Lota)  and  Punta  Arenas,  every  other  one  also 
at  Port  Stanley,  Falkland  Islands,  the  voyage  occupying  11 
or  12  days  to  Montevideo.  A  boat  of  the  Kosmos  Line  may  be 
taken,  although  they  no  longer  as  formerly  go  through  Smyth 
Channel,  all  now  missing  the  fine  scenery  of  the  fjords. 
Persons  desiring  to  see  more  of  Chile  may  go  by  rail  down  the 
lamed  Central  VaUey,  the  wonderful  fruit  and  agricultural 
seetion,  and  through  the  beautiful  lake  region,  taking  the 
steamer  at  CoroneL  A  peculiarity  of  this  longitudinal  valley 
extending  several  hundred  miles  between  two  ranges  of  moun- 
tains parallel  to  the  sea  is  that  instead  of  being  watered  by  a 
single  stream  running  lengthwise,  it  is  crossed  by  a  number 
of  rivers  flowing  west  into  the  ocean.  The  railroad  is  now 
opened  to  the  south  for  a  distance  of  400  miles  to  Puerto 
Montt  on  the  Gulf  of  Aneud.  Although  sleeping  cars  are 
provided,  the  journey  should  be  made  by  day  for  the  enjoy- 
ment of  the  scenery. 

For  a  considerable  distance  south  of  Santiago  towns  and 
villages  are  numerous,  some  of  them  especially  frequented  in 
the  summer.  Almost  all  kinds  of  fruits,  vegetables,  and  ce- 
reals are  raised  to  perfection  in  various  parts  of  the  valley. 
In  the  earlier  part  of  the  journey  there  are  views  of  lofty 
Andean  peaks;  farther  south  the  range  is  lower,  but  with 
a  multitude  of  lakes  and  dense  virgin  forests,  the  scenery  is 
no  less  beautiful.  From  Talca,  a  prosperous  town  of  45,000 
on  the  Maule  River,  50  miles  south  of  Santiago,  a  branch  line 
runs  to  the  small  but  pleasant  town  of  Constitution.  It  was 
in  Talca,  which  was  founded  in  1692  and  partly  destroyed  by 


SOUTHEEN  CHILE  193 

a  terrible  earthquake  in  1S35,  that  Director  O'Higgins  signed 
the  Declaration  of  Independence.  The  city  has  a  pretty  plaza 
with  a  fine  Government  House,  theater,  church,  and  other 
handsome  edifices. 

Chilian,  100  miles  farther,  is  a  modern  city  famous  for 
its  fine  horses  and  cattle.  It  affords  an  unusual  opportunity 
to  see  the  country  people,  "who  come  in  to  the  market-place 
on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  two  or  three  times  a  week, 
especially  Saturdays.  Wares  are  well  displayed  in  booths, 
gay  with  mantasy  gorgeous  ribbons  and  lace,  equestrian  out- 
fits, pottery,  baskets,  and  horn  ornaments.  Street  cars  run 
to  the  historic  ruins  of  old  Chilian,  the  birthplace  of  Don 
Bernardo  O'Higgins.  The  famous  baths  and  hot  springs  of 
Chilian  are  beautifully  situated  among  the  mountains  about 
60  miles  distant  at  an  altitude  of  nearly  8000  feet 

The  railroad  crosses  many  rivers  on  some  fine  bridges,  one 
nearly  ^  of  a  mile  long  and  300  feet  above  the  Malleeo 
E-iver  at  CollipullL  A  bridge  %  of  a  mile  long  crosses 
the  Bio-Bio,  along  the  boundary  line  between  the  Spanish 
American  settlements  and  the  country  of  the  fierce  Aran- 
canians.  From  Rosendo  a  branch  line  leads  to  the  cities  near 
the  sea,  Conception,  and  its  seaport  Talcahuano  240  miles 
from  Valparaiso,  a  port  both  of  commercial  and  military 
importance  on  a  large  bay  in  which  a  dry  dock  has  been 
arranged  for  the  repair  and  the  cleaning  of  naval  vessels. 
Concepcion,  which  was  founded  by  Valdivia,  but  has  been 
several  times  destroyed  both  by  Araueanians  and  by  earth- 
quakes, is  now  a  substantial  modern  city  of  50,000  inhab- 
itants, the  third  in  size  in  the  Republic. 

Ooronel  and  Lota,  five  miles  apart  on  the  Bay  of  Araueo, 
40  miles  south  of  Taleaiuano,  are,  one  or  the  other,  regular 
ports  of  call  for  all  the  steamships,  and  the  only  one  below 
Valparaiso  for  the  P.  S.  N.  boats  before  Punta  Arenas.  Hence 
one  going  by  rail  to  Puerto  Montt  would  be  obliged  to  return 
to  this  point  for  his  steamer;  unless  possibly  the  Kosmos 
boats  call  farther  down.  The  boats  call  at  Coronel  or 
Lota  to  procure  a  supply  of  coal.  This  is  pre-eminently 
ike  coal  region  of  Chile,  of  which  Lota  is  the  center.  In  1852 
a  property  was  purchased  here  by  Don  Matias  Cousino  who 
explored  for  coal  with  success.  His  son  Luis,  in  1862  in- 


194  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Meriting  the  property,  in  1869  formed  a  company,  keeping 
most  of  the  shares.  His  widow  later  becoming  sole  owner  of 
the  company  was  called  the  richest  woman  in  the  world,  with 
a  property  of  at  least  $70,000,000.  She  died  in  1898  leaving 
six  children.  Hers  was  the  greatest  financial  enterprise  then 
carried  on  by  a  Chilian.  The  capital  of  the  Company  is  now 
$20,000,000.  Half  a  million  tons  of  coal  are  annually  pro- 
duced, y\Q  of  which  is  used  by  the  Company  for  smelters  and 
their  own  steamships,  the  rest  being  sold. 

To  visit  the  mines  there  is  a  drop  in  an  electric  car  of 
nearly  %  °%  a  m^e-  There  are  streets,  shops,  offices,  res- 
taurants, stalls  for  horses,  black-smiths'  shop,  etc.,  down  be- 
low ;  and  the  workings  go  far  under  the  deep  sea  where  ships 
are  sailing  above.  There  is  good  rock  and  no  drip.  The 
Company  owns  copper  mines,  smelting  works,  pottery  and 
brick  works,  glass  and  bottle  factories,  etc.,  with  a  fleet  of 
steamers  and  sailing  vessels.  Five  thousand  workmen  are  em- 
ployed here,  for  whom  houses  are  supplied,  free  schools,  church, 
medical  attendance,  free  coal,  asylum  for  aged,  etc. 

The  Seoora  spent  money  lavishly  at  home  and  in  Paris, 
where  she  was  well  known.  Lota  Park  was  laid  out  by  the 
most  skillful  landscape  gardeners  with  artistic  design  and 
picturesque  effects.  Stately  trees,  flower  beds,  all  plants  of 
temperate  climes  here  flourished  in  a  state  of  the  highest  cul- 
tivation. On  a  bluff  above  the  town,  it  has  wonderful  sylvan 
beauty;  with  grottoes,  bridges,  fountains,  cascades,  etc.,  mar- 
ble and  bronze  monuments,  deer  and  other  animals  in  the 
woods,  an  aviaiy  with  birds ;  near  the  center  of  the  park,  a  fine 
marble  statue  by  the  noted  artist  Caupoliean.  A  palace 
fit  for  royalty,  not  quite  completed,  it  is  falling  to  decay. 
Superb  wainscoting,  gold  and  white  frescoing,  exquisite  par- 
quetry, carved  mantels  and  sideboards,  priceless  curios  and 
paintings,  treasures  of  all  kinds  were  brought  from1  Europe, 
many  never  unpacked  The  Park  at  times  is  open  by 
courtesy  to  strangers,  a  spectacle  of  great  beauty,  though  per- 
haps of  melancholy.  The  Company  owning  200,000  acres  of 
farming  land  has  many  sheep  and  cattle  and  Las  planted 
more  than  10,000,000  trees. 

Valdivia.    Still  farther  south  in  a  picturesque  site  on  the 
Calle-Calle  Eiver  is  the  town  of  Valdivia  (pop.  12,000),  the 


SANTIAGO  TO  BUENOS  AIRES  BY  SEA       195 

fifth  city  founded  by  Pedro  de  Valdivia,  in  1552,  It  was  too 
far  from  Ms  base  for  that  period,  and  much  slaughter  fol- 
lowed in  fierce  battles  with  the  natives.  Near  its  port,  Corral, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  15  miles  away,  in  1820  occurred 
the  victory  of  Lord  Cochrane's  fleet  over  the  Spanish.  For 
several  years  the  railroad  halted  at  Osorno  a  little  farther  on. 
Its  recent  extension  to  Puerto  Monti  on  the  north  shore  of 
the  Gulf  of  Eeloncavi,  about  100  miles  beyond,  will  greatly 
enhance  the  prosperity  of  a  rich  and  beautiful  section  already 
sprinkled  with  thriving  German  colonists.  One  of  the  lakes 
near  by,  Llanquihue,  with  an  area  of  nearly  300  square  miles 
is  served  with  steam  navigation. 

The  boats  of  the  P.  S.  N,  Company  running  from  Callao 
to  Liverpool  reach  Lota  or  Coronel  the  day  after  leaving  Val- 
paraiso. Five  days  later  they  arrive  at  Punta  Arenas;  in 
five  or  six  more  at  Montevideo. 

Sailing  towards  the  South  Pole,  the  coldest  region  on 
earth,  the  winds  naturally  become  more  chill,  especially  if 
it  is  their  winter  season.  By  a  natural  perversity  of  fate,  it 
is  said  that  the  finest  scenery  is  usually  passed  at  night,  also 
it  is  often  foggy  or  it  snows,  so  little  may  be  seen.  After 
several  days  with  no  land  in  view,  the  sight  of  Cape  PtKar, 
rising  1395  feet  above  the  sea,  the  western  extremity  of  Deso- 
lation Island,  and  on  the  south  side,  the  western  outpost  of 
the  Straits,  gives  a  thrill  of  pleasure.  On  the  northwest  side 
of  this  entrance  from  the  Pacific  are  the  three  Evangelists 
and  the  Sugar  Loaf,  columnar  rock,  more  impressive  than 
many  mountains.  From  Cape  Pillar  to  Cape  Virgenes  at  the 
eastern  entrance  of  the  Straits  it  is  240  miles  as  the  crow 
flies  but  between  300  and  400  by  the  channel  which  must  be 
followed.  As  the  prevailing  winds  are  west,  sailing  ships 
between  October  and  March  sometimes  go  through  from  tie 
Pacific,  a  fair  passage  occupying  80  days,  but  they  more  gen- 
erally prefer  the  passing  around  Cape  Horn,  100  miles  south, 
where  jagged  boulders  rise  to  a  height  of  1391  feet  in  the 
midst  of  a  turbulent  sea;  for  despite  the  500  additional  miles 
of  open  water  it  is  open  with  less  danger  from  fogs,  cross 
currents,  etc.,  and  time  is  usually  saved.  Storms  are  frequent 
in  this  region,  but  if  the  weather  favors,  the  fine  scenery  in- 
cluding glacier-covered  mountains,  deep  bays,  grim  cliffs, 


196  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

gray  moss,  and  sparse  vegetation,  picturesque  icebergs,  the 
multitude  of  penguins,  sea-gulls,  an  occasional  albatross, 
seals  and  whales,  the  tints  of  sea  and  glaciers,  of  clouds  and 
crags,  forms  a  picture  which  some  persons  think  is  unequaled 
in  Norway  or  Alaska. 

Tourists  sailing  on  a  special  cruise  may  have  the  pleasure 
of  a  detour  to  the  south  to  obtain  a  finer  view  of  the  splendid 
mountain  Sarmwnto;  not  so  high  as  many  others,  but  with 
its  7330  feet  of  altitude  in  this  latitude  presenting  an  im- 
posing spectacle,  at  the  base  dusky  woods  for  one-eighth  of 
the  height,  then  6000  feet  of  snow  and  glaciers,  two  of  the 
latter  indeed  reaching  down  to  the  sea. 

Punta  Arenas,  After  sailing  through  Magdalena  Channel 
southeast  to  Cape  Froward,  the  most  southern  point  of  the 
continental  mainland,  the  ship  turns  almost  north,  a  trifle 
to  the  east,  and  in  a  few  hours  comes  to  anchor  in  Lat  53° 
off  Punta  Arenas,  the  most  southern  city  in  the  world,  900 
miles  nearer  the  South  Pole  than  Christ  Church,  New  Zealand, 
and  1600  nearer  than  Cape  Town.  From  Cape  Froward  west, 
the  British  Pilot  Book  says  the  weather  averages  11  hours 
daily  of  rain,  hail,  or  snow.  There  is  none  worse  in  any  in- 
habited part  of  the  globe:  but  the  region  is  not  unhealthy. 
The  city  of  about  12,000  people  is  a  flourishing  place  with 
wide  streets,  good  water  works  and  electric  lights,  a  hand- 
some cathedral,  appropriate  public  buildings,  and  many  fine 
residences.  A  museum  in  charge  of  some  Catholic  priests 
has  a  collection  of  the  fauna  of  the  country,  birds,  snakes, 
fish,  animals  including  a  woolly  horse,  a  unique  specimen 
with  wool  a  foot  long.  Also  pottery,  weapons,  and  utensils 
of  the  Fuegian  tribes  are  exhibited.  In  the  town,  furs,  fine 
guanaco  sking,  ostrich  feathers,  Indian  baskets,  etc.,  are  for 
sale,  and  most  persons  buy  souvenirs.  A  penal  colony  was 
first  established  by  the  Chilians  in  1843  at  Port  Famine  not 
far  away,  but  after  a  revolt  of  the  convicts  the  town  was 
established  here;  when  the  place  became  a  regular  port 
as  a  coaling  station  for  steamships  the  criminals  were  re- 
moved. It  was  soon  discovered  that  sheep  would  thrive  in 
this  locality:  many  large  ranches  have  been  established  in 
the  back  country,  so  that  16,000,000  pounds  have  been  shipped 
in  a  year.  The  Indians,  formerly  numerous,  are  now  almost 


TIERRA  DEL   FUEGC 


ENTRANCE    TO    ANDINE    TUNNEL,    CHILIAN    SIDE 


SANTIAGO  TO  BUENOS  AIRES  BY  SEA       197 

exterminated,  though  some  Yahgans  and  Onas  still  wander 
in  the  wilds  of  Tierra  del  Fuego.  As  usual  most  of  the 
white  invaders  of  whatever  nationality  have  united  in  their 
destruction,  to  which  the  diseases  of  the  white  m^n  have  also 
contributed. 

A  settlement  still  farther  south  on  Beagle  Channel  in  the 
Argentine  dominion  is  a  village  inhabited  only  by  criminals 
and  their  guards,  few  of  the  latter  being  needed,  as  escape 
is  impossible  except  by  sea.  On  this  side  of  Cape  Proward 
the  ground  is  flatter,  the  air  dryer,  the  country  treeless  and 
of  small  interest.  Nine  hours  from  Punta  Arenas  the  light- 
house on  Cape  Virgenes,  135  feet  high,  is  passed  and  a  three 
days'  sail  on  the  Atlantic  in  a  direct  voyage  brings  one  to 
Montevideo. 

Port  Stanley  on  the  Falkland  Islands,  a  genuine  English 
town  of  2000  people,  has  a  fine  harbor  with  supplies  for  ships 
and  facilities  for  repairs ;  no  trees,  but  a  sedgy  grass,  called 
tussac,  7  feet  high,  excellent  for  horses  and  cattle,  and  with 
roots  something  like  celery,  edible  for  man.  The  weather  is 
never  very  cold  but  the  average  temperature  is  low. 


CHAPTER  XXI 
ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MENDOZA 

THE  journey  from  Santiago  to  Buenos  Aires  by  the  passage 
of  the  Cordillera,  in  former  days  seldom  undertaken  between 
May  and  October  save  by  the  hardy  mail-carriers,  may,  since 
the  opening  of  the  railroad  in  1910,  generally  be  accomplished 
in  any  month  of  the  year.  Sometimes,  however,  traffic  is 
temporarily  suspended  on  account  of  snow-slides  blocking 
the  track  on  the  Chilian  side  of  the  tunneL  Such  incon- 
venience, oftener  arising  in  the  southern  winter  or  early 
spring,  will  doubtless  in  time  be  obviated  by  the  building  of 
snow-sheds  along  the  dangerous  sections,  as  has  been  done 
in  the  United  States.  At  present,  from  July  to  December, 
it  may  be  well  to  inquire  about  conditions  before  purchasing 
a  ticket,  though  prolonged  suspension  of  traffic  is  exceptional. 

The  excursion  across  the  Andes,  less  fatiguing  than  for- 
merly, is  also  far  less  exciting.  The  comfortable  safety  of  a 
car  ride  through  the  tunnel  is  tame  indeed  in  comparison 
with  the  passage  by  coach  or  muleback  over  the  curnbre  2000 
feet  above.  Yet  as  prosaic  comfort  is  ever  more  popular 
than  unusual  and  adventurous  experience,  tourists  to-day  by 
thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  make  the  journey  where 
formerly  passed  tens  and  hundreds.  Still,  even  to  the  gazer 
from  a  ear  window  the  excursion  is  memorable;  to  the  lover 
of  sublime  grandeur  the  day  affords  a  rare  joy.  Very  dif- 
ferent is  this  ride  from  those  across  the  mountains  farther 
north.  Until  the  completion  of  the  line  from  Chimbote  up 
the  Huailas  Valley,  the  Oroya  railroad  alone  will  bear  com- 
parison with  this.  Nor  need  comparison  be  made.  Each 
is  truly  an  elevating  experience  and  wholly  unlike  the  other. 
An  afternoon  departure  from  Santiago  is  customary,  often 
as  late  as  6.15  p.  m.  The  night  must  be  spent  at  Los  Andes 
whence  the  start  is  made  in  the  early  morning.  With  ample 

198 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MENDOZA  199 

time  at  one's  disposal,  it  is  well  to  take  a  forenoon  train  from 
Santiago  to  have  a  few  hours  at  the  pleasant  Chilian  sum- 
mer resort  which  affords  opportunities  for  many  delightful 
strolls,  while  the  scenery  along  the  way  makes  a  daylight 
journey  desirable.  The  monument  to  the  Clark  Brothers 
unveiled  at  Los  Andes,  October  22,  1911,  is  a  worthy  honor 
to  the  initiators  of  this  great  railway.  As  early  as  1870 
they  applied  for  a  concession,  though  it  was  1886  before  the 
first  was  received;  while  they  were  unable  to  complete  the 
work,  they  have  the  credit  of  its  beginning.  After  the  Casa 
Grace  took  charge  on  the  Chilian  side  good  progress  was 
made.  In  1906  it  was  arranged  to  pierce  the  tunnel  under 
one  control,  and  the  task  was  accomplished  in  time  for  the 
Argentine  Centennial  in  1910.  As  far  as  Llai-Llai,  where 
connection  is  made  with  the  train  from  Valparaiso,  the  route 
lies  north  along  the  valley  over  the  road  which  has  pre- 
viously been  traversed.  At  the  junction,  venders  of  delicious 
fruit  are  ever  on  hand  selling,  according  to  the  season,  pears, 
peaches,  oranges,  grapes,  cherries,  or  figs,  at  prices  calculated 
to  tempt  the  hungry  tourist.  Llai-Llai  is  a  pleasant  little 
town  of  about  6000  people,  at  a  height  of  2625  feet  above 
the  sea.  San  Felipe,  somewhat  larger,  is  passed  before  reach- 
ing (to  use  the  full  name) ,  Santa  Rosa  de  los  Andes. 

A  few  rods  from  the  station  is  the  hotel  where  the 'night 
is  passed.  The  town  boasts  of  another,  but  through  travelers 
prefer  the  pleasant  little  establishment,  often  over-crowded, 
from  the  rear  of  which  the  train  early  in  the  morning  departs. 
In  the  summer  the  climate  of  Los  Andes  is  delightful,  the 
evenings  always  cool;  at  other  seasons  the  nights  are  eold 
and  frosty.  Leave  word  in  the  office  when  you  wish  to  be 
called,  or  you  may  be  overlooked  and  miss  your  train  or 
your  coffee,  which  is  not  agreeable.  The  cars  are  apt  to  be 
full,  so  it  is  well  to  hasten,  if  friends  wish  seats  together,  or 
at  times  to  obtain  any  at  all. 

The  track  follows  the  Aconcagua  River,  on  which  Los 
Andes  is  situated,  up  a  beautiful  valley,  after  8  or  10  miles 
growing  narrower  between  steeper  walls.  From  luxuriant 
vegetation  to  bare  rocks  and  snow,  from  beauty  to  grandeur, 
the  change  is  quickly  made.  The  river  becomes  rapidly 
smaller  as  we  pass  above  the  merry  little  streams  which  con- 


200  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

tribute  to  Its  madly  rushing  torrent.  One  bridge  is  called 
the  Pucnte  de  las  Viscachas,  these  being  rabbit-like  animals 
resembling  the  chinchilla  but  with  coarser  fur.  The  rocks  of 
varying  hue  in  sunlight  and  shadow,  cliffs  and  gorges,  and 
the  foaming  stream,  continually  attract  the  eye.  A  hundred 
yards  beyond  the  station,  Los  Loros,  is  the  place  called  Salto 
del  Sold&do,  the  Soldier's  Leap,  to  see  which  one  must  keep 
a  sharp  lookout  on  the  left,  the  train  passing  on  a  shelf  with 
the  stream  60  feet  below.  Various  tales  are  told  of  the 
origin  of  the  name,  one  that  in  the  "War  of  Independence  a 
patriot  escaped  from  the  enemy  by  leaping  the  narrow  gorge 
which  is  crossed  by  the  train  on  a  bridge.  At  the  station, 
Rio  Blanco,  White  River,  a  stream  of  that  name  joins  the 
Aconcagua.  Not  far  beyond  is  Guardia  Vieja,  where  for  more 
tlutn.  two  centuries  a  sentry  or  watchman  has  been  stationed 
for  the  protection  of  the  traveler,  a  necessary  though  in- 
adequate safe-guard,  as  in.  the  old  days  bandits  sometimes  lay 
in  wait  even  for  parties  of  considerable  size.  Robberies  were 
not  infrequent  and  murders  were  by  no  means  rare. 

In  ascending  the  Visp  Valley  to  Zennatt  by  the  aid  of  the 
armck  and  pinion  system,  also  employed  on  the  Andine,  a 
height  of  3000  feet  is  gained  in  a  distance  of  28  miles.  On 
this  road  7000  feet  are  climbed  in  35  miles,  2000  of  these  in 
the  last  8  to  Juncal,  a  rapid  ascent  for  a  traffic  as  dis- 
tinguished from  a  purely  mountain  railway.  Juncal  is 
noteworthy,  as  the  place  where  formerly  the  night  was  spent 
by  those  tourists  and  business  men  designing  in  the  early  dawn 
to  set  out  on  saddle  animal  or  in  mountain  wagon  for  the 
summit  and  the  other  side.  Farther  on  is  a  tranquil  little 
lake,  above  9000  feet,  an  opalescent  gem,  at  times  turquoise 
or  sapphire,  called  the  Lago  del  Inca.  Now  the  track  makes 
a  great  curve  into  an  immense  couloir,  passing  at  the  foot  or 
along  the  side  of  cliffs  or  steep  slopes,  where,  as  in  places 
lower  down,  rocks  small  and  large  seem  ready  to  fall,  as 
others  have  already  descended.  From  the  farther  side  of  the 
great  curve  we  soon  look  across  at  the  track  1000  feet  be- 
neath. We  gaze  in  admiration  upon  the  splendid  gloomy 
cHSs  with  tints  of  slate  color  from  blue-gray  to  black,  and 
on  rocks  with  delicate  hues  of  pink  and  cream,  splashed 
with  red  and  bronze  or  green  j  intermingled  with  these  are 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MENDOZA  201 

patches  of  pure  white  snow.  Observation  cars  would  greatly 
increase  the  pleasure.  Too  soon  at  Caracoles,  at  a  height 
of  10,486  feet,  the  tunnel's  portal  is  reached  and  the  splendor 
of  the  majestic  scene  has  vanished.  Now  for  almost  two 
miles,  to  be  exact,  10,385  feet,  the  train  goes  on  through  the 
backbone  of  the  continent  at  an  elevation  about  the  same 
as  the  tunnel's  length.  Near  the  center,  the  international 
boundary  is  passed ;  hence,  after  ten  minutes  of  darkness,  com- 
ing once  more  to  daylight,  one  is  in  the  great  country  of 
Argentina  on  the  east  side  of  the  Andes,  still  in  a  vast  wilder- 
ness of  gorges,  rocks,  and  peaks  of  multifarious  shapes  and 
colors,  diversified  by  immense  fields  of  snow,  with  many  brief 
visions  of  grandeur  which  one  would  fain  tarry  to  enjoy. 
Fortunate  the  traveler,  who,  7  or  8  miles  below  Las  Cuevas, 
has  at  the  head  of  a  side  valley  at  the  north  a  glimpse  of 
colossal  Aconcagua  15  miles  away,  a  long  ridge  of  snow  arch- 
ing into  two  domes,  with  a  sheer  drop  of  10,000  feet  on  its 
black  southern  wall;  and  farther  on  a  sight  of  Tupimgato, 
30  miles  away  at  the  south :  both  mountains  first  climbed  in 
1897  by  the  Fitzgerald  Expedition,  though  he  unfortunately 
was  compelled  by  mountain  sickness  to  forego  the  satisfaction 
of  attaining  either  summit  himself.  The  first  to  reach  the 
supposed  apex  of  the  Western  Hemisphere,  the  top  of  Aconca- 
gua, according  to  the  latest  measurement,  22,817  feet,  was 
Matias  Zurbriggen,  the  celebrated  Swiss  guide,  who  in  almost 
every  land  has  led  English  and  Americans  to  the  summits  of 
noted  mountains.  Alone,  January  14,  1897,  he  gained  this 
height,  and  there  erected  a  stone  man  as  is  the  custom  where 
possible.  In  April  of  the  same  year,  the  first  ascent  of 
Tupungato,  21,451  feet,  was  made,  also  by  Zurbriggen,  and 
the  Englishman,  Vines. 

Puenta  del  luca.  The  first  station  in  Argentina  is  Las 
Cuevas:  then  we  drop  quickly  to  Puenta  del  Itica  where  a  few 
moments  are  allowed  for  tea.  The  contrast  between  the  green 
and  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  Chilian  side  and  the  barrenness 
of  the  Argentine  is  singularly  opposite  to  that  in  Peru,  where 
the  western  slopes  of  the  Andes  are  mostly  desert  while  the 
eastern  are  clothed  with  the  richest  verdure.  At  Puenta  del 
Inca  is  a  curious  formation  from  which  the  place  is  named, 
a  natural  bridge  of  stratified  rock,  one  of  nature's  marvels. 


2G2  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUE 

The  stream  has  perforated  a  bank  about  20  feet  thick  so  as 
to  form,  80  feet  above  the  river,  a  fine  arched  bridge,  at  the 
top  150  feet  long  and  20  wide,  and  nearly  30  feet  thick. 
The  piers  have  been  strengthened  by  calcareous  deposits 
from  springs  which  gush  from  the  earth  just  at  the  bridge. 
On  the  left  bank  of  the  stream  a  path  of  steps  partly  cut  in 
the  roefcs  leads  down  to  hot  waters.  First  comes  the  Bath 
of  Venus,  an  effective  grotto  of  white  stalactites.  Next  is 
the  Champagne  Spring,  its  foaming  waters  revealing  a  con- 
siderable pressure  from  below.  Among  other  warm  springs 
beyond  is  one  called  Mercury.  On  all  sides  gush  forth  these 
waters  cold,  hot,  and  tepid,  saturated  with  carbonic  acid 
gas;  Hie  Venus  is  86°,  the  Champagne  93°,  the  same  when  the 
path  is  covered  with  six  feet  of  snow.  The  waters  are  supe- 
rior to  the  more  noted  Vichy  in  containing  twice  the  quantity 
of  carbonic  acid,  hence  greater  effervescence ;  and  five  times 
as  uaueh  iron.  This  renders  them  a  real  treasure,  a  few 
months'  treatment  causing  maladies  to  disappear  (they  say) 
upon  which  the  Vichy  waters  make  no  impression.  The  iron, 
salts,  and  gas  of  the  waters  make  them  efficacious  in  gout, 
rhefimatism,  and  severe  stomach  affections,  as  well  as  an  ex- 
eellent  tonic  for  those  who  believe  such  to  be  required.  Sul- 
phur, good  for  skin  diseases,  is  also  present.  The  Hotel  del 
Inca  affords  comfortable  accommodations  (including  a  billiard 
room) ;  all  that  could  be  expected  at  an  altitude  t  :'  8924  feet, 
for  a  daily  fee  of  sis  pesos  ($2.64)  with  some  ex*  /as. 

One  who  is  ambitious  to  ascend  one  of  the  lofty  peaks 
near  by,  or  who  would  merely  stroll  to  a  lesser  height  to  gaze 
upon  those  above,  or  who  would  wander  in  strange  valleys 
and  on  ragged  slopes  will  here  find  the  most  favorable  head- 
quarters for  his  rambles,  as  well  as  cure  for  many  ailments. 
WWle  the  great  mountains,  Aconcagua  and  Tupungato,  no 
longer  afford  opportunity  for  a  first  ascent,  there  are  many 
other  peaks  of  various  altitudes,  the  summits  of  which  are 
yet  untrodden;  one,  lofty  Mercedario,  about  22,000  feet,  to 
the  north  of  Aconcagua,  believed  by  some  to  be  second  in 
height  to  that  alone.  Expert  climbers  only  should  attempt 
exploits  of  such  magnitude,  and  these  not  without  Alpine 
equipment  and  more;  for  to  the  ordinary  paraphernalia  of 
proper  shoes,  ropes,  and  ice  axes  must  be  added  tents,  sleep- 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MENDOZA          203 

ing  bags,  etc.  The  season  for  climbing  here  is  not  the  same 
as  in  Peru  and  Bolivia,  bnt  during  the  summer  of  this  re- 
gion, December  and  January.  Strange  to  say,  although  in 
the  Temperate  Zone,  so  vastly  farther  from  the  equator, 
these  mountains  have  infinitely  less  snow  upon  their  slopes 
than  have  Huascaran  and  Illampu.  They  are  therefore  much 
easier  to  climb,  making  Swiss  guides  not  an  imperative  neces- 
sity, so  far  as  the  technical  difficulties  are  concerned :  though 
whether  reliable  companions  as  porters  could  be  secured  upon 
the  ground  is  an  extremely  doubtful  matter. 

But  on  this  journey  by  rail  how  much  has  one  missed! 
Discomfort  indeed  has  been  avoided;  but  at  the  cost  of  a 
glorious  and  exciting  experience.  In  former  days,  what  a 
rush,  and  bustle  at  Juneal!  in  the  chilly  hour  between  three 
and  four  a.  m.,  when  an  army  of  pleasure  and  of  business 
travelers  hurried  to  secure  places  in  the  mountain  wagons,  or 
to  select  a  gentle  and  sturdy  animal  for  the  seven  hours' 
ride.  The  coach  drivers  were  reckless  Jehus  who  madly  raced 
for  the  summit  and  then  for  the  lower  goal,  amid  a  caravan 
of  freight  wagons,  baggage  animals,  and  riders,  the  latter  to 
their  joy  soon  left  behind.  Though  the  roads  were  called 
good  they  were  deep  with  sand,  and  have  no  such  great  curves 
as  the  roads  over  Alpine  passes.  Short  zigzags  with  acute 
angles,  a  roadbed  rough  with  ruts  and  stones,  few  walls  at 
the  corners  where  a  slip  over  the  edge  would  mean  a  roll  of 
a  few  thousand  feet,  made  a  ride  in  a  swaying  coach  behind 
horses  going  at  a  gallop  assuredly  exciting  to  people  with  any 
nerves.  Some,  once  embarked  and  unable  to  escape,  would 
turn  their  thoughts  from  danger  to  admiration  of  the  scenery, 
reflecting  perhaps  that  accidents  were  rare.  The  view  of 
mighty  walls,  of  glaciers  near  at  hand,  of  distant  glorious 
mountains;  the  fine  pure  air  ever  colder,  though  alas!  ever 
thinner,  was  a  blissful  experience  for  those  who  could  enjoy  it; 
but  not  for  the  faint-hearted  either  literally  or  figuratively. 
Here  and  there  one  would  grow  faint,  become  unconscious,  per- 
haps even  pitch  out  of  the  wagon:  oftener  a  stalwart  man 
than  a  frail  woman.  On  they  would  go,  their  friends  un- 
certain whether  a  temporary  weakness  or  a  serious,  possibly 
fatal  affection  was  attacking  the  victim. 

At  last  the  cumbre  or  highest  point  was  reached,  12,796 


204  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

feet  above  the  sea ;  not  a  sliarp  ridge,  but  a  nearly  level  stretch 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  across  among  the  massive  hills  and  moun- 
tains: a  tremendous  range  of  gloomy,  desolate,  forbidding 
peaks,  or  a  splendid  rampart  of  majestic,  glorious  moun- 
tains, according  to  the  soul  and  mood  of  the  spectator.  Here 
in  the  midst  of  this  great  solitude  is  the  most  impressive 
monument,  men  say,  in  all  the  world,  the  Christ  of  the  Andes, 
a  bronze  figure  of  Christ  of  heroic  size,  26  feet,  one  hand  out- 
stretched in  blessing,  the  other  supporting  a  still  higher 
cross.  The  circumstance  of  its  erection,  the  sentiment  in- 
volved, as  well  as  the  unique  position  of  the  monument, 
make  it  the  most  remarkable  in  the  world's  history. 

Chile  and  Argentina  in  1900  were  on  the  verge  of  war 
over  a  boundary  dispute  involving  80,000  square  miles  of  ter- 
ritory in  the  Patagonian  country.  Immense  sums  expended 
for  warships  and  other  preparations  were  the  cause  of  ab- 
normally high  taxes,  the  products  of  which  were  needed  rather 
for  the  development  of  physical  resources  and  of  education. 
The  British  Ministers  employed  their  good  offices  and  two 
bishops,  one  of  each  country,  traveled  among  their  towns  and 
villages  preaching  the  cause  of  Peace  and  Arbitration.  Bishop 
Benavente  in  Buenos  Aires,  on  Easter  Sunday  1900,  first 
suggested  the  erecting  of  a  statue  of  Christ  upon  the  boundary, 
to  prevent  if  possible  any  recurrence  of  strife.  A  treaty  was 
made,  the  controversy  was  submitted  to  the  arbitration  of 
the  British  Monarch;  King  Edward  entrusted  the  ease  to 
jurists  and  geographers  whose  decision,  dividing  the  disputed 
territory,  was  cheerfully  accepted.  In  June  1903,  Chile  and 
Argentina,  pleased  with  the  outcome  of  this  matter,  made  a 
general  arbitration  treaty,  the  first  ever  concluded  among 
nations;  a  considerable  disarmament  followed  releasing 
much  money  for  needed  internal  improvements,  and  good  feel- 
ing and  confidence  have  replaced  bitterness  and  jealousy. 

In  1901  the  women  of  Buenos  Aires,  on  the  initiative  of 
Senora  de  Costa,  President  of  the  Christian  Mothers'  Asso- 
ciation of  that  city,  acting  upon  the  suggestion  of  Bishop 
Benavente,  undertook  to  secure  funds  for  a  statue.  A  young 
Argentine  sculptor,  Mateo  Alonso,  created  the  design;  the 
statue  was  cast  from  old  Argentine  cannon.  In  May  1903, 
the  Chilian  representatives  came  by  sea  to  Buenos  Aires  for 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MENDOZA          205 

the  ratification  of  the  treaties,  when  the  statue  of  Christ  was 
inspected  and  Senora  de  Costa  pleaded  that  it  should  be 
placed  on  the  highest  practicable  point  on  the  boundary  of  the 
two  countries.  In  February,  1904,  the  final  steps  were  taken. 
The  statue  was  carried  by  rail  to  Mendoza,  and  on  gun  car- 
riages up  the  mountain  side,  soldiers  and  sailors  in  dangerous 
spots  taking  the  ropes  from  the  mules.  On  the  13th  of 
March,  1904,  the  dedication  ceremonies  took  place  in  the 
presence  of  hundreds  who  from  both  sides  had  come  up  the 
night  before  and  here  encamped  to  witness  this  extraordinary 
spectacle.  The  Argentines  stood  on  the  soil  of  Chile,  the 
Chilians  on  that  of  Argentina.  The  booming  of  guns,  the 
sound  of  music  re-echoed  through  the  mountains.  "When  all 
was  ready,  the  monument  unveiled,  there  was  a  moment  of 
solemn  silence,  followed  by  the  dedication  of  the  statue  to  the 
whole  world,  as  a  lesson  of  peace  and  good  will. 

The  monument  consists  of  an  octagonal  granite  column  22 
feet  high  upon  which  is  a  hemisphere  of  granite  with  a 
partial  sketch  of  the  world's  outlines.  On  this  stands  the 
bronze  Christ  26  feet  high,  the  cross  extending  five  feet  above. 
Two  bronze  tablets  on  the  granite  base,  the  gift  of  the  Work- 
ingmenV  and  "Workingwomen's  Unions  of  Buenos  Aires, 
bear  inscriptions  in  Spanish,  on  one  side  statistics  and  dates, 
on  the  other — 

"Sooner  shall  these  mountains  crumble  into  dust  than 
Argentines  and  Chilians  'break  the  peace  to  which  they  have 
pledged  themselves  at  the  feet  of  Christ  the  Redeemer." 

Until  the  opening  of  the  railroad  in  May  1910,  this  great 
statue  was  annually  passed  by  thousands  who  paused  here 
for  a  moment  in  the  midst  of  their  dizzy  ride  to  rest  and  to 
gaze  upon  the  scene.  Now  it  stands  ever  lonely  between 
heaven  and  earth,  the  silence  no  more  broken  by  the  raucous 
shouts  of  swearing  coachmen  and  muleteers,  or  by  the  crude 
jests  of  a  boisterous  throng;  to  the  few  who  now  venture 
along  that  solitary  way,  a  solemn  spectacle. 

On  this  journey  over  the  cumbre  one  is  likely  to  descry 
specimens  of  the  great  condor,  oftener  to  be  seen  in  Chile  than 
in  the  countries  nearer  the  equator.  In  the  many  days  I 
have  spent  above  15,000  feet  in  Peru  and  Bolivia,  not  one 
appeared  within  the  range  of  my  vision.  In  the  mountainous 


206  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

regions  of  Chile,  the  birds  are  so  numerous  as  to  be  a  pest, 
attacking  pigs,  sheep,  children,  and  rarely  a  grown  man; 
hence  a  reward  for  condors  dead  or  alive  has  been  offered 
by  the  Government-  From  the  top  of  the  pass  down  to  Las 
Cuevas  near  the  tunnel  entrance  it  was  said  to  be  a  swift 
slide  at  breakneck  speed.  The  thankfulness  with  which  the 
tonrist  descended  from  the  coach  to  enter  the  prosaic  train 
may  well  he  imagined.  The  sturdy  pedestrian  was  the  one 
who  in  safety  and  tranquillity  might  truly  enjoy  the  mag- 
nificent visions,  while  others  in  terror  had  fleeting  glimpses 
of  the  splendid  panorama.  One  should  not,  however,  even 
with  a  good  revolver,  in  these  days  venture  alone  upon  the 
traverse,  unless  thoroughly  seasoned  to  greater  heights  j  for 
though  the  brigands  who  once  haunted  this  region  have  prob- 
ably departed  to  more  frequented  scenes,  the  danger  of  an 
attack  of  mountain  sickness  or  of  a  sudden  storm,  especially  to- 
wards the  beginning  of  winter,  should  deter  most  persons  from 
the  excursion  except  with  suitable  companions  and  equipment. 
It  should  be  noted  that  high  winds  frequently  prevail  in  these 
lofty  regions  after  nine  or  ten  in  the  morning,  strong  enough 
at  times  to  hurl  horse  and  rider  from  the  track  to  the  depths 
below;  this  fact  accounts  for  the  unearthly  hour  at  which 
the  start  was  formerly  made  for  the  ride  over  the  cumbre. 
Stone  huts  called  casachas,  anciently  built  as  refuges  from 
storm,  are  scattered  along  the  road,  though  now  apt  to  be 
snow-filled  and  useless.  0 

Below  Puenta  del  Inea,  the  region  seems  like  the  interior 
of  an  extinct  volcano,  with  variously  tinted  volcanic  rocks. 
Dotting  the  slope  of  a  jagged  mountain,  some  odd  small 
black  pinnacles,  called  penitentes,  are  supposed  to  resemble 
toiling  pilgrims,  and  the  perpendicular  cliffs  above  suggest 
a  cathedral.  On  other  slopes  are  nieves  penitentes,  ice 
pinnacles,  curiously  formed  by  the  action  of  sun  and  wind, 
these  the  original  penitewies9  as  the  pilgrims  were  garbed  in 
white. 

Beyond  Punta  de  las  Vacas  is  a  point  on  the  left  where  the 
rock  strata  are  of  tints  especially  magnificent.  At  the  sta- 
tion Usp<Matay  the  narrow  gorge  opens  into  a  little  plain  at 
right-angles,  where  river  and  railroad  both  turn  south.  The 
name  Uspallata  is  applied  to  the  whole  pass:  its  passage  by 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MENDOZA          207 

a  division  of  San  Martin's  army  with  cannon  was  a  remark- 
able military  exploit:  the  general  himself  with  the  larger 
force  crossed  to  the  north  of  Aconcagua  a  slightly  lower  but 
colder  pass  called  Los  Patos. 

Cacheuta.  Near  this  station,  40  kilometers  from  Mendoza, 
are  more  hot  baths,  on  the  left  of  the  railroad  descending, 
but  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  Here  is  a  surface  of 
about  3000  square  meters  where  by  digging  to  a  depth  of 
2  or  3  feet  hot  water  will  gush  forth,  the  temperature 
varying  according  to  the  location,  the  hottest  water  near  the 
river,  112°,  the  lowest?  79°.  The  waters  are  valuable  to  suf- 
ferers from  rheumatism,  articular,  muscular,  and  visceral; 
less  so  for  neuralgic  pains,  which  may  return.  "Women  are 
benefited  in  their  special  ails.  The  waters  strongly  stimulate 
the  nervous  system,  the  power  of  nutrition,  and  the  whole 
organic  system  including  the  heart  action  and  circulation, 
and  are  therefore  forbidden  to  persons  suffering  from  dis- 
eases of  the  heart  and  circulation,  some  of  whom  pay  for 
their  rashness  with  their  lives.  The  bath  establishment,  af- 
fording fair  accommodations,  a  dining-room  seating  250,  and 
a  billiard  room,  receives  about  20,000  guests  a  year.  Sum- 
mer visitors  are  the  most  numerous.  The  Baths  include  a 
swimming  pool,  and  smaller  tanks  with  water  hot  or  cold,  and 
a  grotto  for  Russian  baths.  The  price  for  two  meals  daily 
and  bath  is  six  pesosy  or  second  class  4.50.  The  two  meals 
are  almuerzo  and  dinner,  morning  coffee  being  extra,  a  curi- 
ous custom  first  observed  in  Chile  but  obtaining  largely  in 
Argentina.  The  Indian  name,  Cacheuta,  is  derived  from  the 
fact  that  here  an  Indian  chief  bearing,  with  attendants,  two 
skins  full  of  gold  was  met  by  Spaniards  as  he  was  going  to 
ransom  the  Inea.  The  Indians  succeeded  in  deceiving  the 
Spaniards  and  concealing  the  gold.  The  secret  was  well  kept 
until  a  poor  Indian,  befriended  by  a  missionary,  revealed  the 
hiding  place;  but  there  was  a  mistake  somewhere  as  all 
search  was  vain. 

At  length  the  mountains  are  left  behind,  probably  after 
dusk  has  fallen,  so  that  the  arrival  at  Mendoza  is  in  the  early 
evening.  The  tourist  who  is  making  a  hasty  trip  will  hurry 
across  the  station  to  the  probably  waiting  train,  by  which 
he  will  arrive  in  Buenos  Aires  the  following  evening.  The 


208  THE  SOUTH  AMEKIGAN  TOUR 

more  leisurely,  and  the  tired  traveler  will  take  a  carriage  to 
the  Grand  Hotel  where  an  excellent  dinner  will  be  enjoyed 
and  comfortable  night  quarters  may  be  obtained.  In  looking 
about  the  town  and  visiting  one  of  the  great  bodegas,  a  day 
or  two  will  be  agreeably  spent 

Mendoza  Hotels,  the  Grand,  the  Club,  the  Franda  and 
others.  At  the  Grand,  on  Plaza  San  Martin,  the  table  was 
unexpectedly  good ;  the  dinner,  served  on  the  broad  veranda, 
from  seven  to  nine  on  a  balmy  summer  evening,  was  a  gen- 
uine pleasure. 

Hendoza,  with  45,000  inhabitants,  the  largest  city  in  West 
Argentina,  has  a  remarkable  record.  Strange,  indeed,  that 
this  town  at  the  base  of  the  loftiest  of  the  Andes,  by  these 
separated  from  one  ocean,  and  by  650  miles  of  pampa  from 
the  other,  was  founded  nearly  fifty  years  before  the  first 
settlement  in  the  United  States  and  twenty  years  before  the 
city  of  Buenos  Aires  came  permanently  into  being.  If  we 
knew  or  reflected  more  on  the  bold  deeds  of  other  days  in 
other  countries,  we  might,  perchance,  have  more  respect 
for  others  and  less  assurance  of  our  own  great  superiority. 
May  2,  1561  (some  say  March  2,  1560),  a  city  was  founded 
by  Pedro  del  Castillo  in  a  fruitful  spot  watered  by  the  Men- 
d0za  River.  At  an  altitude  of  2500  feet,  in  the  longitude 
of  Portland,  Maine,  and  a  latitude  corresponding  to  that  of 
Charleston,  it  is  an  agreeable  place,  with  plazas,  wide,  pleas- 
ant streets,  and  attractive  buildings;  but  all  seems  new. 
Two  cities  there  are,  the  living  and  the  dead  5  not  as  in  Cuzeo, 
the  one  of  an  earlier  race,  built  over  and  around  by  invaders, 
but  an  old  city  of  the  sixteenth  century,  a  new  one  of  the  nine- 
teenth. Unless  aware  of  this  fact,  the  old  will  be  ignored,  the 
visitor  passing  on,  unaware  of  its  existence.  Some,  indeed, 
may  prefer  so  to  do,  but  others  will  desire  to  have  a  glimpse  of 
the  ruins:  for  the  city  of  1561,  300  years  later,  was  utterly 
destroyed  by  a  tremendous  earthquake.  The  catastrophe  was 
of  a  singular  character.  At  8.30  p.  m.,  March  20,  1861,  a 
subterranean  groan  was  heard.  On  the  instant,  before  there 
was  time  to  flee,  the  house  walls  crumbling  fell,  the  roofs  in 
the  middle,  so  that  the  people,  generally  in  their  houses, 
perished  to  the  number  of  10,000-15,000.  Some2  who  were 
promenading  in  the  streets  or  plaza,  were  killed  or  thrown 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MENDOZA          209 

to  the  ground;  but  many  of  these  who  were  saved  engaged 
in  the  work  of  rescue :  too  few,  however,  to  do  effective  labor, 
so  that  a  large  number  who  had  not  been  killed  outright, 
confined  among  the  ruins,  perished  from  asphyxiation  and 
starvation.  Prom  lamps  and  fires  in  the  dwellings  and  the 
breaking  of  gas  pipes,  a  conflagration  followed,  rendering  the 
night  more  horrible.  Some  districts  next  day  were  flooded 
from  the  obstruction  of  the  canals;  the  odor  of  dead  bodies 
became  insupportable,  as  the  survivors  were  too  few  to 
remove  them.  The  shocks  had  continued  until  nothing  was 
left  standing;  there  were  19  within  the  next  24  hours,  17  of 
which  were  violent;  14  more  the  next  day;  gradually  they 
diminished,  coming  to  an  end  in  May.  It  is  extraordinary 
that  the  strength  of  this  violent  convulsion  was  confined  to 
a  district  60  miles  long  and  6  wide,  extending  southeast  from 
the  TJspallata  Valley.  A  slight  jar  was  felt  at  Buenos  Aires, 
but  in  Chile  across  the  Andes  no  tremor  at  all.  Assistance, 
though  promptly  sent,  was  long  delayed  in  arrival,  as  at  that 
time  practically  no  railroads  existed  in  Argentina.  Succor 
first  came  from  the  neighboring  towns  of  San  Juan  and  San 
Luis,  then  from  Chile,  all  of  Argentina,  Paraguay,  Uruguay, 
Peru,  and  Europe;  by  which  the  survivors  were  enabled  to 
rehabilitate  themselves. 

There  was  the  usual  talk  of  changing  the  location  of  the 
city  to  a  site  not  far  away  near  granite  hills,  indicating  a 
more  solid  substratum;  but  the  people  as  elsewhere  refused 
to  move,  rebuilding  close  by  in  the  lighter  Chilian  fashion, 
with  a  larger  use  of  wood,  and  employing  much  material 
taken  from  the  ruins.  Thus  these  have  to  some  extent  dis- 
appeared, but  it  is  worth  while  to  have  the  coachman  drive 
you  over,  if  you  care  to  see  the  destruction  wrought. 

The  new  city  of  Mendoza  has  recently  experienced  a 
rapid  growth  and  great  prosperity.  Of  the  seven  plazas, 
most  important  are  the  San  Martin  on  which  is  the  Grand 
and  another  hotel,  also  the  handsome  building  of  the  Bank 
of  the  Province;  and  the  Plaza  Independencia,  larger  and 
finer,  around  which  are  already  erected  or  about  to  be 
built,  a  new  Government  Palace,  a  Legislative  Building,  and 
a  Hall  of  Justice.  Other  objects  of  more  or  less  interest 
according  to  one's  taste,  are  churches,  convents,  libraries, 


210  THE  SOUTH  AMBEICAN  TOUB 

a  national  college,  a  kindergarten  of  the  very  latest  model, 
a  normal  and  an  agricultural  school,  factories  of  various 
industries,  several  Clubs  of  foreigners  here  resident,  hos- 
pitals, orphan  asylums,  and  a  fine  penitentiary.  There  are 
many  broad  streets,  the  chief  avenue  for  shopping  and  prom- 
enade, the  San  Martin,  being  100  feet  wide  with  four  rows 
of  fine  poplars.  The  streets,  clean  and  well  paved,  are  lined 
with  a  profusion  of  trees,  *more  than  10,000;  so  many  as  to 
render  the  atmosphere  at  times  (it  is  said)  stifling  and  un- 
healthy. The  houses  are  mainly  of  one  story  and  none  are 
above  two,  out  of  consideration  for  the  earthquakes. 

A  comical  and  original  method  of  street  watering  may 
here  be  observed.  Considerable  streams  run  along  the  sides 
of  the  main  avenue,  if  not  elsewhere,  and  boys  with  buckets 
on  the  end  of  long  poles  dip  these  into  the  water  and  throw 
it  upon  the  driveway,  a  primitive  but  effective  method. 

On  the  west  of  the  city  an  immense  park  is  being  developed 
into  a  charming  resort  at  the  edge  of  the  Andean  foothills. 
The  handsome  bronze  gates  at  the  entrance,  costing  $25,000, 
were  imported  from  England.  Within  are  splendid  drive- 
ways lighted  by  electricity;  beautiful  flower  beds;  thousands 
of  trees  and  shrubs ;  an  interesting  zoological  garden ;  a  pretty 
botanical  garden;  and  a  charming  lake  nearly  a  mile  long 
and  330  feet  wide,  arranged  with  boating  facilities,  beautified 
by  islands,  and  furnished  with  a  splendid  grand  stand  on  a 
sloping  shore  with  seating  accommodations  for  3000  people. 
Not  far  away  is  a  rond  pointy  with  a  kiosk  as  a  band  stand. 
Already  a  delightful  resort  which  no  one  should  fail  to  visit, 
it  promises  to  be  a  truly  magnificent  pleasure  ground.  If 
there  is  one  to  compare  with  it  in  the  United  States  in  a  city 
of  twice  the  size,  it  has  not  come  to  my  attention. 

To  many  the  greatest  interest  of  Mendoza  will  be  in  the 
neighboring  vineyards  and  bodegas.  Many  fortunes,  large 
and  small,  have  been  made  in  viticulture  in  Argentina,  and 
this  region  east  of  the  Andean  foothills  is  wonderfully  well 
calculated  for  its  development  Investments  in  this  business 
return  as  high  as  25  to  30  per  cent  profits.  One  hectare 
(2Y2  acres)  of  land  will  bear  300  to  400  ewt.  of  grapes,  which 
sell  at  3  or  4  pesos  a  cwt.,  an  Argentine  peso  being  44  cents. 
An  economical  Italian  family  can  live  on  the  returns  from  a 


ACROSS  THE  ANDES  TO  MENDOZA          211 

single  hectare.  Among  the  various  industries  of  the  province 
wine  production  is  the  most  important,  increasing  between 
1895  and  1908  from  the  value  of  9  to  44  million  pesos.  The 
largest  of  the  bodegas  or  wineries  is  that  of  Domingo  Tomba, 
whose  wines  have  received  at  European  Expositions  many 
gold  and  silver  medals.  This  great  establishment  at  Godoy 
Cruz,  a  pretty  town  half  an  hour  by  rail  from  Mendoza  or  a 
pleasant  drive,  may  be  visited  in  a  half  day.  Interesting  at 
any  time  it  is  especially  so  during  the  grape  season  which 
lasts  from  February  to  May,  the  fruit  coming  in  first  from 
the  north  and  along  down  to  the  southern  limit  of  produc- 
tion. Senor  Tomba  owns  several  large  vineyards,  3000 
acres,  and  purchases  the  entire  product  of  others.  The 
bodega,  established  by  his  brother  Antonio  (now  deceased) 
in  1886,  then  producing  1000  hectolitres,  increased  to  a  pro- 
duction of  254,000  in  1909.  All  essentials  of  a  first  class 
establishment  are  here  found  The  employees,  like  the  pro- 
prietor, are  mainly  of  Italian  birth.  It  is  an  immense  prop- 
erty with  many  buildings  of  various  kinds.  Bows  of  enor- 
mous casks  for  fermentation  and  deposit  contain  220  hecto- 
litres each,  others  are  smaller,  also  there  are  great  tanks  of 
brick.  The  large  two-wheeled  carts  for  transportation  are 
drawn  by  four  horses,  one  ahead  and  three  abreast,  the  driver 
riding  one  of  the  three.  A  large  patio  contains  a  pretty 
garden  and  a  monument  to  the  founder  of  the  House.  The 
buildings  are  as  •  neat  as  possible  and  of  fine  workmanship. 
The  wine  is  excellent,  of  good  body,  but  not  designed  for 
export,  not  improving  with  age.  For  ordinary  table  use 
there  is  none  better,  and  the  demand  for  it  in  Argentina, 
in  spite  of  continually  enlarged  production,  is  always  greater 
than,  the  supply. 

Mendoza  is  a  popular  winter  resort  for  many  Argentinians 
on  account  of  its  picturesque  surroundings  and  generally 
cloudless  sky,  with  a  superb  view  of  snowclad  heights;  but 
most  Americans  would  consider  a  frequent  temperature  in 
the  forties  a  trifle  chill  without  a  fire,  and  would  hie  away 
to  warmer  climes. 

The  extensive  System  of  irrigation  carried  on  in  the  Prov- 
ince renders  it  highly  productive  of  alfalfa,  wheat,  and  corn, 
as  well  as  grapes;  also  of  vegetables  rivaling  the  California 


212  THE  SOUTH  AilEEICAN  TOUE 

giants,  onions  as  large  as  plates,  colossal  carrots  and  radisnes, 
at  some  seasons,  mushrooms,  marvellous  in  size  and  flavor, 
all  these  largely  transported  to  Buenos  Aires.  As  an  at- 
tractive center  of  immigration  this  is  the  third  province  of 
the  Republic. 


CHAPTER  xxn 

ARGENTINA— ACROSS  THE  PLAINS  TO  BUENOS  AIRES 

THE  great  country  of  Argentina,  the  largest  we  have  yet 
visited,  in  South  America  second  only  to  Brazil,  has  more 
than  five  times  the  area  of  Prance  and  above  one-third  that 
of  the  United  States.  Considerably  longer  than  the  latter 
country,  though  not  so  wide,  its  latitude  compares  with  that 
from  Key  West  to  Hudson  Bay,  a  distance  of  2200  miles ;  its 
width  varies  from  200  to  1000  miles.  Its  great  length  from 
north  to  south  assures  wide  variety  in  climate,  aside  from 
changes  in  elevation,  of  which  there  is  not  much  after  get- 
ting away  from  the  Andes.  The  climate  range  is  from  Sicily 
'or  hotter  to  Iceland,  less  than  in  corresponding  latitudes  in 
North  America. 

The  central  part  of  the  country  now  to  be  traversed  is 
the  great  pampa  section,  largely  a  region  of  cattle  raising, 
where  the  soil  is  from  3  to  6  feet  thick;  farther  north  and 
east  in  the  Parana  basin,  where  wheat,  sugar,  and  many  other 
products  are  raised,  the  soil  is  from  30  to  100  feet  thick.  In 
Patagonia  at  the  south  the  plains  are  of  sand  and  gravel, 
requiring  irrigation  except  for  a  few  small  fertile  valleys. 
A  rich  country  is  Argentina,  now  forging  ahead  with  won- 
derful strides. 

The  journey  to  Buenos  Aires  is  made  from  Mendoza  in 
twenty-four  hours  by  the  express  trains,  chiefly  composed 
of  sleeping  ears.  These  have  by  the  windows  at  one  side 
an  aisle,  from  which  staterooms  open  with  berths  one  above 
another  running  cross-wise  of  the  car.  Each  room  contains 
a  lavatory,  electric  lights  and  fan.  By  day  there  is  a  long 
leather  covered  seat,  less  comfortable  than  those  in  our 
sleepers,  and  far  less  than  on  the  despised  narrow  gauge  rail- 
way from  Oruro  to  Antofagasta.  A  dinrng  ear  is  attached 
to  the  train,  furnishing  fair  meals  at  reasonable  prices, 

213 


214  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Leaving  Mendoza  by  daylight,  a  region  of  vineyards  with 
a  few  towns  may  be  seen  for  some  miles,  and  at  harvest  time 
men  and  women  by  thousands  engaged  in  picking  the  great 
clusters  of  grapes;  but  soon  an  arid  country  is  reached,  not 
like  the  West  Coast  deserts  farther  north,  but  resembling  our 
western  plains.  There  is  a  scanty  growth  of  scrub  and  an 
excessive  amount  of  dust,  which  in  great  profusion  creeps 
through  the  single  windows  to  the  discomfort  of  all  pas- 
sengers. Here  there  is  almost  no  rainfall,  and  one  need  not 
regret  passing  in  the  night.  Santa  Bosa,  a  town  fifty  miles 
from  Mendoza,  has  some  historic  importance  as  the  site  of 
two  battles  in  the  civil  wars  of  1874,  where  the  national 
forces,  defeated  in  October,  were  in  December  victorious  under 
Col  Julio  A.  Soea. 

Near  the  small  station  Baldey  75  miles  farther,  is  a  noted 
artesian  well  2000  feet  deep,  sunk  in  this  arid  region  by  the 
National  Government  at  a  cost  of  1&0,000  pesos.  Boring  was 
begun  March  31,  1884,  with  a  tube  of  20  inches  diameter, 
decreasing1  gradually  to  3l/2  inches.  Not  until  October  12, 
1887,  did  water  begin  to  gush,  at  last  in  great  quantity,  esti- 
mated by  some  at  8000  liters,  by  others  at  200,000  liters  an 
hour,  a  rather  wide  margin.  The  water  having  a  temper- 
ature of  1(6°  is  drinkable  and  of  great  value. 

A  little  beyond  is  the  town  of  San,  Luis  (population 
153000)  founded  in  1597  by  the  Governor  of  Chile.  From 
raising  alfalfa,  land  has  increased  in  value  ten  fold,  being 
now  worth  $5  or  $6  an  acre.  Cattle  raising  is  a  special  indus- 
try of  the  province,  also  the  sale  of  green  onyx,  beds  of  which 
lie  to  the  north. 

Villa  Mercedes,  a  town  of  about  the  same  size,  is  an  im- 
portant railway  junction.  One  might  here  take  a  train  by 
way  of  Villa  Maria  to  Cordoba,  if  desirous  of  visiting  that 
historic  city.  Prom  here  to  Buenos  Aires  is  a  region  of 
rainfall  and  of  wonderful  fertility,  the  great  cattle  ranches, 
formerly  covering  the  whole  country,  being  to  some  extent 
superseded  by  the  cultivation  of  the  soil;  wheat,  linseed,  and 
com  are  produced  in  immense  quantities.  It  may  be  noted 
in  passing  that  Argentina  is  the  greatest  exporter  (not  pro- 
ducer) of  cattle  and  of  cereals  of  any  country  in  the  world. 
At  many  stations  there  is  but  a  house  or  two,  an  adobe  hut 


ACROSS  THE  PLAINS  TO  BUENOS  AIRES      215 

occupied  by  an  Italian  or  by  a  gaucho,  a  cowboy  of  mixed 
race,  Spanish  and  Indian.  Yet  in  the  season  6000  tons  of 
wheat  may  be  seen  at  one  of  these  stations,  representing 
great  wealth.  The  freight  cars,  weighing  12* £>  tons,  will 
carry  a  load  of  40  tons,  this  being  a  broad  gauge  road  with 
straight  and  almost  level  track,  inclining  slightly  to  the  sea. 
The  longest  straight  in  the  world  is  here  found,  175  miles  in 
direct  line,  and,  but  for  one  S  curve,  206  miles.  Bronzed 
cattlemen  may  be  seen  at  the  stations,  and  along  the  way 
thousands  of  splendid  cattle ;  then  a  sea  of  cultivated  limit- 
less plain,  interesting  for  a  while,  but  presently  monotonous 
to  many. 

Between  Villa  Mercedes  and  Hackenna,  40  miles,  is  a  very 
rich  zone  containing  many  elegant  dwellings  of  modern  style 
with  city  comforts,  amid  gardens  and  orchards,  fields  of  vege- 
tables and  cereals. 

RufinOy  another  railroad  center,  is  a  station  of  hurry  and 
bustle.  A  wonderful  change  has  taken  place  in  this  region 
in  the  last  25  years,  from  a  lonely  expanse  with  a  rare  dwell- 
ing and  a  few  native  cattle  to  villages,  splendid  herds,  and 
grain  fields  whose  products  always  outrun  the  provision  of 
sheds  and  storehouses.  Near  the  station  VecKa,  the  end  of 
the  straight  from  Mackenna,  is  the  noted  estanda  or  ranch  of 
Senor  Benito  Villanueva  of  35,000  acres,  which  contained 
some  years  ago  14,000  Shorthorn  cattle,  besides  Lincoln  and 
Shropshire  sheep,  and  1200  horses  of  Clydesdale,  Suffolk,  and 
Hackney.  A  station  on  a  branch  line  is  called  Gen.  Arenales 
after  the  owner  of  an  important  establishment,  with  creamery 
and  cheese  factory  making  200  pounds  of  cheese  a  day. 

A  busy  town  is  Jmun  on  the  site  of  a  fort  from  which 
forces  sallied  Dec.  10,  1876,  against  an  invasion  of  cattle- 
stealing  Indians.  The  latter  were  routed  and  the  cattle  saved. 
Here  are  railroad  workshops  employing  1000  men,  and  an 
electric  establishment  supplying  light  for  the  city  and  power 
for  the  making  of  butter,  cream,  and  ice.  Land  here  is  worth 
more  than  $1,00  a  square  foot.  Perhaps  a  peso  was  meant. 

Fifteen  kilometers  from  the  town  of  Chacabuco  is  the 
estanda  San  Gregorio  especially  devoted  to  raising  Hereford 
and  Durham  bulls,  Lincoln  sheep,  Hackney,  Morgan,  and 
Clydesdale  horses,  collie  dogs,  terriers,  and  fowls  of  the 


216  THE  SOUTH  AMEBICAN  TOUE 

"Wyandotte,  Plymouth  Rock,  Brahma,  and  other  breeds. 
Seven  thousand  dollars  was  paid  by  the  owner  for  a  single 
bull 

Near  Mercedes,  a  city  of  15,000,  is  an  estantia  of  40,000 
acres.  This  in  addition  to  other  blooded  stock  has  many 
race  horses,  now  used  for  breeding,  which  formerly  won  fame 
in  Europe.  For  one  of  these  the  owner  paid  $150,000. 

The  station  Open  Door  is  so  called  from  a  remarkable  gov- 
ernmental establishment  for  healing  the  mentally  diseased 
by  the  outdoor  grystem,  work  in  the  fields. 

At  Muniz,  20  miles  from  Buenos  Aires,  there  is  a  Campo 
de  Mayo,  a  field  for  military  exercises,  where  reviews  fre- 
quently occur  attracting  many  spectators.  Close  by  is  a 
famous  etfancia,  that  of  Noberto  Quirno,  4200  acres,  fenced 
with  wire,  divided  into  18  enclosures.  Besides  the  pure 
Wooded  eatfle,  acres  of  the  finest  fruit,  and  an  elegant  resi- 
dence, there  is  a  dove-cote,  supplying  40  to  50  pairs  of  pigeons 
daily. 

The  town,  SnrKngftamf  15  miles  from  the  city,  almost  in 
the  suburbs,  is  much  frequented  by  those  athletically  in- 
clined. A  hippodrome  containing  apparatus  for  physical 
exercises  is  the  scene  of  frequent  hippie  and  athletic  reunions 
with  large  and  distinguished  crowds.  There  is  a  race  track 
of  2000  meters  for  horses,  grounds  for  tennis,  polo,  cricket, 
etc.,  with  pavilions  for  spectators,  restaurant,  garage,  stables, 
and  dog  kennels.  The  whole,  covering  22  squares,  belongs 
to  a  society  with  6000  members.  At  the  opening  of  the  season 
occurs  an  annual  fete  called  Gymkchana.  Among  other 
sports  is  a  Whistling  Bace.  In  this,  after  500  yards,  men 
must  pause  before  a  lady  and  whistle  a  tune,  the  name  of 
widch  she  hands  to  him  on  paper. 

In  the  real  suburbs  of  Buenos  Aires,  at  Villa  Devoto,  10 
miles  from  the  city  station,  is  a  rifle  range  established  by 
the  Italians.  The  field,  1000  meters  long  and  100  wide,  has  a 
shooting  gallery  550  meters  long.  Of  the  30  targets  24  are 
for  guns  at  from  300  to  500  meters,  and  six  for  revolvers 
at  10  meters.  English  societies  have  here  tennis  and  golf 
grounds.  Among  many  chalets  with  fine  gardens  is  one  be- 
longing to  John  A.  Hall  containing  about  1500  varieties  of 
orchids.  Of  two  asylums  in  the  place,  one  called  Umberto 


ACEOSS  THE  PLAINS  TO  BUENOS  AIEES      217 

Frimo,  was  the  gift  of  the  philanthropist  Antonio  I>evoto, 
of  which  the  cornerstone  was  laid  February,  1904,  by  Prince 
Luigi  de  Savoia,  Duke  of  the  Abruzzi.  From  this  suburb  a 
tramway  conducts  to  the  city,  passing  on  the  way  a  Dispen- 
sary for  the  Tuberculous,  and  the  National  School  of  Agri- 
culture and  Veterinary,  which  was  inaugurated  September, 
1904.  Continuing  by  rail,  one  has  on  the  left  a  glimpse  of 
the  river,  and  on  both  sides,  of  the  Palermo  Park,  before 
reaching  the  station  Retiro,  a  short  distance  from  the  center 
of  Buenos  Aires. 

This  wonderful  city,  the  Metropolis  of  South  America,  which  in 
the  last  half  century  has  grown  at  a  rate  exceeded  by  few  in  the 
United  States,  was  i'ounded  as  early  as  1535  by  Pedro  de  Mendoza; 
but  being  twice  destroyed  or  abandoned  on  account  of  troubles  with, 
the  Indians,  its  permanent  settlement  dates  from  1580,  For  this 
the  honor  belongs  to  Juan  de  Garay,  Acting  Governor  of  the  Prov- 
inee  of  which  Asuncion  was  the  capital.  The  latter  city  had 
been  founded  in  1536  by  Juan  de  Ayolas,  sent  thither  to  discover  a 
way  through  to  the  rich  country  of  Peru.  This  colony,  more  fortu- 
nate than  Buenos  Aires,  endured,  and  for  many  years  Asnnci6n 
was  the  chief  city  of  this  part  of  South  America*  Several  other 
settlements  were  made  in  the  present  Argentine  country  before  the 
permanent  establishment  of  Buenos  Aires:  Santiago  de  Estero  in 
1553;  and  within  ten  years  thereafter,  Mendoza,  San  Juan,  and 
Tueuman. 

The  name,  Buenos  Aires,  dates  from  1535  when  Pedro  de  Men- 
doza, January  6,  inaugurated  the  city  of  Santa  Maria  de  Buenos 
Aires,  in  recognition  of  the  sailors7  devotion  to  Nuestra  Senora  del 
Buen  Aire,  their  especial  patroness  at  Cadiz;  tradition  also  has  it 
that  on  disembarking  here  one  said  to  another,  "Que  buenos  aires 
son  los  de  este  sueloP  irWhat  good  airs  are  there  on  this  landP 
The  town  founded  February  2,  1535,  was  practically  destroyed  by 
Indians  and  abandoned  in  1541.  In  1580  Garay  with  sixty-three 
colonists,  provisions,  tools,  etc.,  coming  from  Asuncion,  on  dis- 
embarking Sunday,  June  11,  1580,  proceeded  to  an  elevated  spot, 
where  now  is  Parque  Lezama,  There  he  pronounced  in  Spanish  the 
words,  "City  of  the  Trinity  and  Port  of  Santa  Maria  of  Buenos 
Aires,  I  baptize  thee  in  the  name  of  the  Father,  Son,  and  Holy 
Ghost."  All,  saying  Amen,  then  knelt  to  ask  a  blessing  on  the  city 
to  be  founded.  Proceeding  north  to  an  open  space  on  the  wooded 
shore  they  fixed  upon  the  present  Plaza  de  Mayo  as  the  center  of 
the  eit£  and  placed  the  first  stone  at  the  corner  of  Rivadavia  and 


218  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Saa  Martin.  The  new  city  was  arranged  in  sixteen  squares  from 
north  to  south  along  the  river  front,  and  in  nine  squares  east  to 
west,  with  farms  and  gardens  beyond.  While  the  general  trend  of 
the  river  and  the  shore  on  this  side  is  northwest  to  southeast,  the  front 
just  here  is  almost  due  north  and  south,  the  Avenida  de  Mayo,  at 
right  angles,  therefore  running  east  and  west. 

The  growth  of  the  city  was  slow,  being  much  hampered  by  strange 
regulations  of  the  Mother  Country.  *No  commerce  was  permitted, 
either  imports  or  exports,  hence  smuggling  became  popular.  While 
the  Viceroy  at  Lima  was  ruler  of  the  entire  country,  his  practical 
authority  was  here  small,  the  Audiencia  in  Chareas  (now  Sucre), 
Bolivia,  being  in  charge  of  the  country  east  of  the  Andes.  Subordi- 
nate to  this  were  the  Koyal  Governors  of  the  Provinces,  always  Span- 
ish, while  the  cities  were  ruled  by  CabiMos  of  from  six  to  twelve 
members  who  were  natives  or  Creoles.  These  serving  for  life  bad 
charge  both  of  judicial  and  administrative  matters.  The  troubles 
witli  the  Indians,  and  with  the  Portuguese  who  had  settlements  on 
the  opposite  bank  may  be  passed  over,  but  those  with  the  British 
should  be  mentioned.  At  last,  after  about  two  hundred  years, 
Buenos  Aires  in  1776  Iiad  a  Viceroy  of  her  own  and  more  liberal 
gwemment ;  unfortunately  too  late  to  undo  the  evil  which  had 
been  wrought,  although  trade  now  flourished  and  the  population 
soon  doubled.  In  June,  1806,  a  squadron  under  Admiral  Popham, 
and  General  Beresford  with  fifteen  hundred  men  landed  below  Buenos 
Aires  then  a  city  of  about  40,000.  The  Viceroy  fled  and  June  27 
tiie  British  occupied  the  city.  A  French  officer,  Liniers,  in  Spanish 
employ,  procuring  one  thousand  regular  troops  and  some  cannon 
in  Montevideo,  approached  the  city  and  was  joined  at  his  camp  by 
many.  The  British  on  the  advance  of  the  army  of  Liniers,  August 
12,  after  hard  street  fighting,  finally  surrendered;  the  British  flags 
then  captured  are  still  preserved  in  Buenos  Aires  as  trophies. 
Four  months  later  the  British  again  came  and  with  four  thousand 
troops  captured  Montevideo.  General  Whitelock  approaching 
Buenos  Aires  put  to  flight  the  army  of  Liniers  which  had  eome  out 
to  meet  him;  but  on  entering  the  city,  July  5,  stubborn  street  fighting 
ensued,  and  after  forcing  their  way  to  the  barricaded  Plaza  and 
losing  in  two  days  one-quarter  of  their  men,  the  British  agreed  to 
withdraw  and  to  evacuate  Montevideo  within-  two  months. 

This  experience  inspired  in  the  Argentines  a  feeling  of  self-re- 
Hanca  Accordingly  when  Napoleon,  after  he  had  overrun  the  Span- 
Mi  peninsula,  demanded,  May  22,  1810,  the  resignation  of  the  new 
Viceroy  Cisneros,  who  had  taken  office  in  1809,  an  armed  assembly 
eame  together  in  the  Plaza  and  proclaimed  the  Cdbildo  supreme  in 
WIi3e  Acts  were  made  in  the  name  of  Ferdinand  VTT, 


ACROSS  THE  PLAINS  TO  BUENOS  ABBES      219 

the  Spanish  ruler  of  Castile  and  Leon,  then  in  prison,  this  date  is 
regarded  as  that  of  the  dawn  of  Independence.  The  CabUdo  sent 
armies  in  various  directions  and  bloody  combats  ensued,  several  at 
first  successful,  then  with  varying  results.  There  were  long 
troublous  times,  though  Buenos  Aires  never  again  fell  under  for- 
eign sway,  and  the  sentiment  of  independence  became  firmly  estab- 
lished by  1812.  In  this  year  returned  from  Europe  the  great 
patriot,  San  Martin,  who,  through  the  labors  of  the  historian, 
Bartolome  Mitre,  is  now  generally  recognized  as  the  savior  of  South 
American  Independence. 

San  Martin,  born,  February  25,  1778,  of  a  Creole  mother  and  a 
Spanish  officer  father  in  a  small  mission  town  of  the  Jesuits  on  the 
Uruguay  River,  was  taken  to  Spain  at  the  age  of  eight  years,  edu- 
cated in  the  best  military  schools,  and  served  in  many  wars.  Hav- 
ing imbibed  liberal  ideas  he  returned  to  Buenos  Aires  in  March, 
1812,  and  later,  with  a  chosen  company  of  the  best  youths,  pro- 
ceeded to  Mendoza,  where  for  three  years  he  was  forming  and  drill- 
ing an  army  for  the  purpose  of  invading  Chile.  This  he  did  in 
January,  1817,  the  battle  of  Chacabuco,  February  12,  giving  that 
country  its  independence.  Going  to  Peru  with  his  army  in  1820,  fee 
proceeded  himself  to  meet  Bolivar  in  Guayaquil  When  the  latter 
rejected  the  cooperation  proffered,  San  Martin  gave  up  the  army 
which  he  had  organized  and  withdrew  to  Buenos  Aires,  suffering 
the  imputation  of  cowardice  without  a  word,  and  returning  to  Eu- 
rope to  live  in  reduced  circumstances  until  his  death  at  Boulogne 
in  1850. 

Independence  was  formally  declared  by  a  Congress  in  Tnemnan, 
July  9,  1816.  From  1812  to  1862  civil  and  other  wars  were  fre- 
quent. July  9,  1825,  a  National  Constitution  was  adopted,  and  in 
1826,  Rivadavia,  a  very  able  man,  became  the  first  President.  The 
greatest  constructive  statesman  of  the  period,  he  undertook  to  re- 
form the  laws  and  administration,  created  the  University  of  Buenos 
Aires,  founded  hospitals,  etc.,  and  engaged  in  war  with  Brazil,  by 
which  Uruguay  became  independent.  But  after  a  single  year  of 
office,  on  account  of  dissensions,  he  resigned.  In  18^J,  following 
two  years  of  strife,  de  Rosas  became  President  and  in  1835  Dic- 
tator. His  name  and  his  tyranny  are  regarded  with  detestation. 
Defeated  June  8,  1852,  by  General  Urquiza,  he  fled  to  the  British 
Legation  and  later  to  England. 

In  1853  Buenos  Aires  was  recognized  as  an  independent  state, 
but  in  1857  the  Portenos  or  harbor  people,  as  the  residents  of  the 
city  are  called,  under  General  B.  Mitre  were  defeated  by  General 
Urquiza  and  again  joined  the  Confederation.  In  1861  another  bat- 
tle occurred  under  the  same  generals  with  a  victory  for  Mitre,  who 


220  THE  SOUTH  A3IERICAN  TOUR 

then  became  President  of  the  entire  nation  and  by  granting  the 
Provinces  autonomy  succeeded  in  creating  better  feeling.  In  1868 
Dr.  Sarmiento,  a  broad-minded  scholar,  was  peacefully  elected  and 
did  much  to  promote  education  and  develop  the  nation's  resources. 
His  successor,  Dr.  Avellanda,  had  a  more  troublous  term  of  office. 
General  Boca  who  followed,  1880,  gained  his  position  by  hard  fight- 
ing, He  first  declared  the  eity  the  Federal  District  of  the  nation, 
promoted  railway  extension,  and  put  down  dissensions.  After  Dr. 
Celman  had  misgoverned  for  four  years,  Carlos  Pellegrini  finished 
the  six  years'  term  in  good  fashion.  Dr.  Saenz  Pena  followed  in 
1502,  but  becoming  unpopular,  resigned;  and  the  Vice  President 
filled  out  his  administration.  Another  term  for  General  Roca  was 
succeeded  hi  1904  by  that  of  Dr.  Quintana  and  after  his  death  Dr. 
Aleorts;  the  present  incumbent,  Dr.  Eoque  Saenz  Pena?  taking  of- 
fice October  12,  1910. 

Buenos  Aires,  the  Metropolis  of  South  America,  resembles 
Chicago  in  being  located  on  the  level  frontier  of  a  great 
prairie,  and  on  the  border  of  a  large  body  of  fresh  water;  at 
the  same  time  it  is  like  New  York  in  being  the  chief  seaport 
of  a  great  nation.  The  so-called  Rio  de  la  Plata  or  La  Plata 
Biver  is  in  reality  more  of  an  estuary;  so  wide  as  to  have 
rather  the  effect  of  a  bay  or  gulf.  Formed  by  the  union 
of  two  rivers,  the  Parana  and  the  Uruguay,  the  La  Plata 
basin  is  the  second  largest  in  the  world,  the  flow  of  the  river 
being  8$  per  cent  greater  than  that  of  the  Mississippi.  And 
here  let  me  make  a  feeble  protest  against  the  usage,  general 
among  the  English,  and  now  copied  in  the  United  States,  of 
speaking  of  this  water  as  the  Eiver  Plate.  Was  there  ever 
an  uglier  name  in  sound  or  sense  ?  Were  there  any  difficulty 
in  saying  La  Plata  there  might  be  some  excuse.  True,  one 
is  liable  to  commit  a  tautology  by  saying  the  La  Plata  Eiver, 
a  repetition  of  the  the  in  another  language,  but  some  sins  are 
worse,  and  one  to  my  mind  is  changing  Plata  to  Plate.  Plata 
means  silver.  Why  not  then  call  it  the  Silver  Eiver,  if  one 
would  translate,  or  else  say  the  Plata  Eiver  ?  I,  at  least,  give 
notice  here  that  in  this  book  it  shall  be  properly  called.  The 
first  a  of  course  has  the  sound  of  ah. 

The  river  is  here  28  miles  wide,  so  that  one  does  not  see 
the  opposite  shore  except  from  a  height  such  as  the  Capitol 
dome.  It  is  125  miles  long  more  or  less,  according  to  where 
you  consider  the  ocean  line,  Buenos  Aires  being  called  about 


ACROSS  THE  PLAINS  TO  BUENOS  AIEES      221 

100  miles  from  the  sea  and  90  from  Montevideo.  The  city, 
65  feet  above  sea  level,  has  like  Chicago  plenty  of  room  to 
grow  and  has  improved  the  opportunity  to  extend  itself  until 
in  area  it  is  one  of  the  largest  cities  in  the  world,  three  times 
as  large  as  Berlin,  but  smaller  than  London  or  New  York. 
Its  population,  according  to  the  last  accounts,  1913,  is  about 
a  million  and  a  half.  Thus  it  is  the  fourth  city  in  the 
Western  Hemisphere  and  the  second  Latin  city  in  the  world. 
At  its  present  rate  of  growth  it  will  soon  be  crowding  Paris; 
some  day,  perhaps,  it  may  become  the  first  in  population  of  the 
cities  founded  and  ruled  by  a  Latin  race. 


CHAPTER  XXTTI 
BUENOS  AIRES 

HOEELS.  Pkza,  K  P.,  10  pesos  and  up ;  Palace,  a  little  more  mod- 
erate; others  A.  P.,  Grand,  9-20;  Royal,  0-20;  Majestic,  12  up; 
Hetrapole;  Splendid;  CaviezeFs  New  Hotel;  Phoenix;  Albion. 

Cabs.  First  class,  15  blocks,  1  peso,  next  15  blocks,  50  ctvs; 
second  class,  first  course  60  civs.,  second  40  ctm.  By  the  hour, 
first  class,  2  pesos,  then  80  ctvs.  each  half  hour;  second  class,  1.50 
iksfc  hour,  .60  each  half  hour.  Automobiles,  higher. 

Money.    Argentine  pesoy  44  cents;  donble  the  Chilian  peso. 

Guide-book  to  the  Argentine  Repnblic  by  Albert  B.  Martinez, 
valuable;  in  Spanish  and  French,  perhaps  now  in  English. 

CHIEF  POISTTS  OP  INTEREST 

TJie  Plaza  and  the  Avenida  de  Mayo,  the  Government  Palace, 
Capitol,  Palace  of  Justice,  Plaza  San  Martin,  the  Mnsenm  of 
Art,  Zoological  and  Botanical  Gardens,  Palermo  Park,  Hippodrome, 
Colon  Theater,  Parque  Lezama  and  National  Historical  Museum, 
Eecoleta  Cemetery,  the  Docks,  Frigarificos,  Mercado  de  Frutos. 

TOUBISTS  coming  from  Mendoza  will  arrive  at  the  Retiro 
Station.  Outside  are  numerous  carriages  to  convey  the  trav- 
eler and  small  luggage  to  his  hotel.  The  price  of  these  car- 
riages is  astonishingly  cheap  to  a  New  Yorker,  1  peso,  44 
cents,  for  a  ride  of  15  squares,  and  nearly  all  of  the  hotels 
are  within  this  distance.  From  the  docks  the  ride  may  be 
longer,  according  to  where  landing  is  made.  Further,  there 
are  carriages  of  the  second  class,  which  seem  equally  good. 
For  these  the  fee  is  60  centavos.  The  only  difference  that  I 
could  learn  was  that  the  first  class  coachman  wears  a  uni- 
form. The  number  of  horses,  one  or  two,  makes  no  dif- 
ference. The  automobiles  are  somewhat  more  expensive* 
The  drivers  have  a  habit^  as  elsewhere,  especially  at  the  sta- 

222 


AVEXIDA  DE   MATO 


BUENOS  AIRES  223 

tion,  of  demanding  more  than  their  fee,  particularly  on  Sun- 
day; so  it  may  be  as  well  to  say  nothing,  take  the  first  car- 
riage offered  and  pay  what  is  due  with  a  small  tip  and  no 
remarks,  and  something  additional  for  baggage.  Trunks 
should  be  arranged  for  with  an  agent  of  the  express  com- 
pany, Expreso  Villalonga,  either  at  the  station,  or  after  reach- 
ing your  hotel,  if  that  is  not  already  decided  upon.  The 
hotel  porter  will  attend  to  it  if  you  hand  him  your  checks. 

Unlike  the  cities  previously  visited,  as  might  be  expected 
from  its  size,  a  wide  choice  of  accommodations  is  here  of- 
fered. Hotels  galore  and  lodging  houses  as  well  are  to  be 
found,  though  perhaps  not  a  room  at  the  desired  hostelry 
unless  engaged  in  advance:  not  always  even  then,  if  reports 
are  true  of  certain  establishments.  There  are  all  kinds  of 
prices  except  very  cheap,  for  this  is  quite  another  world  from 
the  West  Coast,  and  except  as  to  carriages,  prices  compare 
with  those  of  New  York 

The  first  choice  of  the  ultra  fashionable  and  wealthy  is 
likely  to  be  the  Hotel  Plaza,  unless  a  new  one  promised  to 
be  still  finer  should  already  be  completed.  At  the  Plaza, 
barely  two  blocks  from  the  station,  a  room  may  be  had  on 
either  the  American  or  the  European  plan.  The  lowest  price 
for  the  latter  is  ten  pesos  ($4.40)  a  day — and  from  that  far 
up,  doubtless  30  or  40  pesos  or  more  for  suites  with  bath. 
Meals  are  in  proportion.  The  location  is  good,  on  the  hand- 
some Plaza  San  Martin,  and  very  near  the  river,  the  Amer- 
ican Legation  is  close  by — but  it  is  quite  a  distance,  11  blocks, 
from  the  Avenida  de  Mayo,  the  principal  avenue,  and  many 
will  prefer  a  hotel  in  the  heart  of  the  city  on  this  handsome 
and  busy  thoroughfare,  or  one  within  a  few  blocks  of  it.  The 
other  hotels  are  somewhat  lower  priced  and  by  many  regarded 
as  more  comfortable  and  agreeable.  The  Plaza,  under  the 
management  of  the  world  famed  Ritz  Carlton  people,  is 
naturally  the  grand  affair  that  one  would  expect,  the  pompous, 
uniformed  British  attendants  easily  leading  one  within  to 
fancy  himself  in  London. 

The  Palace  Hotel,  before  the  erection  of  the  Plaza,  regarded 
as  the  first  in  the  city,  is  a  large  edifice,  property  of  Nicolas 
Mihanovich,  the  noted  steamboat  man.  This  fine  structure, 
two  blocks  from  the  Plaza  de  Mayo,  fronts  on  three  streets, 


224  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

the  25th  of  May,  Cangallo,  and  the  Paseo  de  Julio,  many  rooms 
thus  looking  upon  the  Paseo,  a  fine  boulevard  and  parkway, 
and  out  over  the  docks  to  the  river.  On  this  side  there  are 
five  stories,  with  an  observation  tower  at  the  corner  150  feet 
high  for  the  use  of  the  Mihanovich  Company,  and  containing 
a  powerful  electric  light.  The  offices  of  the  company  are  on 
the  ground  floor  of  the  building.  The  hotel  has  an  imposing 
entrance  with  a  monumental  stairway  (also  elevators)  lead- 
ing to  the  main  floor.  Here  is  a  hall  of  the  Louis  XIY  style, 
and  a  luxurious  dining-room  of  the  Empire  fashion  with 
white  and  gold  ceiling.  All  floors  are  heated  and  there  is  a 
telephone  in  every  room  or  suite,  conveniences  and  elegance 
of  all  kinds.  Above  there  is  a  roof  garden  (a  favorite  resort 
on  summer  evenings)  adorned  with  exotic  plants,  and  a  sum- 
mer dining-room  which  affords  charming  views. 

Other  hotels,  older  and  equally  popular,  are  the  Grand 
and  the  Ro$/alf  comfortable,  even  luxurious.,  much  patronized 
by  English-speaking  folk.  The  Grand,  built  in  1900,  on 
Florida  and  Rivadavia,  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  city  and  by 
some  called  noisy ;  the  Royal  at  the  corner  of  Corrientes  and 
Esmeralda  is  a  few  blocks  distant.  At  these  the  price  for 
room  and  board  with  bath  privilege  is  from  9  to  12  or  14 
pesos  a  day;  for  room  with  morning  coffee  only,  5  to  8  pesos 
a  day. 

On  the  Avenida,  which  means  always  the  Avenida  de  Mayo, 
are  the  Hotels  Splendid,  Metropole,  Paris,  Majestic,  Ca- 
ticzers  New  Hold,  all  of  the  first  rank  with  pension  prices 
from  10  or  12  pesos  up.  Also  on  the  Avenue  near  the  Plaza 
de  Mayo  is  the  Hotel  Nuevo,  said  when  built  to  have  been  the 
acme  of  elegance.  The  Phoenix,  San  Martin  780,  more  quiet 
and  less  pretentious  than  some  of  the  others,  is  much  pat- 
ronized by  English.  One  preferring  lower  prices  will  find 
good  board  and  rooms  at  the  Pension  Caviezel  for  from  7 
to  9  or  more  pesos  daily  (elevator),  an  excellent  location  on 
the  Avenida,  Rivadavia  and  Esmeralda  (painfully  neat,  some 
one  said,  which  is  hardly  a  fault),  a  Swiss  proprietor ;  another 
pension  of  the  same  name  is  at  the  next  corner,  with  prices 
a  little  higher.  At  the  Hotel  Albion  on  the  Avenue  rooms 
without  board  may  be  obtained,  cheaper  but  less  attractive, 


BUENOS  AIRES  225 

and  furnished  rooms  elsewhere  at  2-4  pesos  a  day,  accord- 
ing to  style  and  location. 

Comfortably  settled  in  a  good  hotel,  what  is  first  to  be 
done  f  I  should  say,  after  morning  coffee  take  a  stroll  around 
the  center  of  the  city,  down  the  Avenue,  turning  to  the  left 
on  Florida  with  a  glance  at  the  shop  windows,  down  Cangallo 
to  Reconquista  and  the  Plaza  at  the  right.  If  time  is  short 
begin  at  once  sight-seeing  there,  the  center  of  the  old  and 
new  city,  a  historic  site  for  nearly  four  centuries.  Called 
by  Garay,  Plaza  Grande  or  Mayor,  containing  8  acres  or 
more,  it  is  now  Plaza  de  J/at/o.  The  center,  regarded  as  the 
Altar  of  the  Country,  has  been  occupied  by  a  modest  monu- 
ment, an  obelisk  called  the  Pyramid  of  ilay,  commemorat- 
ing the  Revolution  of  1810.  For  this,  excavation  was  made 
in  April,  1811.  This  will  now  be  replaced  by  a  great 
and  worthy  monument  on  the  same  spot  to  the  same 
event,  voted  by  the  centenary  commission  to  the  com- 
peting artists,  Gaetano  Moretti  and  Luis  Brizzolara. 
The  splendid  marble  monument,  having  a  base  150  feet 
square,  will  be  a  trifle  taller,  the  base  supporting  a 
colossal  obelisk  115  feet  high,  upon  which  will  stand  a 
group  of  statuary,  the  apotheosis  of  the  Argentine  flag:  a 
figure  representing  the  New  Nation  waving  the  sacred  ban- 
ner, preceded  by  Progress  crushing  down  Ignorance  and 
Prejudice,  and  acclaimed  by  Revolution,  Justice,  and  the 
People.  Other  statues  and  reliefs  will  be  used  in  decoration. 
An  interesting  innovation  will  be  a  large  chamber  within  the 
monument  to  be  used  as  a  museum  and  to  contain  as  a  first 
relic  the  actual  Pyramid  of  May,  the  first  memento  of  the 
glorious  dawn  of  liberty.  This  monument  is  to  be  finished 
and  in  position  in  1916. 

Of  other  monuments  already  decorating  the  Plaza,  one 
erected  in  1906  faces  the  Avenue,  a  fine  group  of  marble  por- 
traying a  figure,  the  City  of  Buenos  Aires,  being  crowned 
by  Progress ;  a  child,  the  Future,  observing  the  act.  Towards 
the  other  end  of  the  Plaza,  the  east,  is  an  equestrian  statue 
of  General  Manuel  Belgrano,  one  of  the  first  Council  of  Gov- 
ernment, appointed  by  the  Corporation  of  the  City,  May  25, 
1810;  he  was  afterwards  a  commander  of  Argentine  troops, 


226  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

gaining  victories  at  Tucuman  and  Salta,  in  1812  and  ?13, 
later  suffering  defeat  in  Bolivia,  after  which  he  resigned  the 
command  to  San  Martin.  The  rest  of  the  Plaza  is  occupied 
by  gardens,  walks,  and  fountains.  Occasionally  there  is 
music. 

At  the  southwest  corner  of  the  Plaza  is  the  ancient  Cabftdo 
where  met,  May  22,  1810,  on  the  upper  floor,  a  popular 
assembly  which  declared  the  authority  of  the  Yiceroy  incom- 
patible with  public  tranquillity.  May  25  the  Cabildo  ap- 
pointed a  Junta  or  Council  of  Government  with  Don  Cornelio 
Saavedra  as  President.  The  Viceroy  having  already  with- 
drawn to  avoid  bloodshed,  the  Council  took  the  oath  the  same 
afternoon;  Saavedra  addressed  the  people  from  a  balcony 
with  an  appeal  for  order  and  harmony.  Thus  the  revolution 
triumphed  without  bloodshed,  and  from  here  spread  to  other 
sections,  where  long  struggle  was  necessary ;  to  Argentina,  the 
success  in  all  the  countries  south  of  Ecuador  was  largely  due. 

The  most  imposing  structure  on  the  Plaza  is  the  Govern- 
ment Palace  on  the  east.  On  this  spot  in  1595  the  construc- 
tion of  a  fort  was  begun ;  but  it  was  1718-1720  before  a  con- 
siderable fortress  was  erected,  whose  walls  remained  till  1853. 
They  were  then  demolished  for  a  custom  house,  which  in 
1894  was  destroyed  to  make  room  for  the  present  palace. 
This  great  brick  edifice,  400  feet  long  and  250  deep,  with 
two  wings  of  slightly  different  form,  constructed  at  different 
periods,  contains  offices  of  the  President  of  the  Republic  and 
of  the  various  Ministers,  of  the  Interior,  of  Foreign  Relations 
and  Worship,  of  Finance,  of  Justice  and  Public  Instruction, 
of  Agriculture,  of  Public  Works  (Hacienda),  of  War  and 
Marine.  In  the  building  are  several  libraries,  the  most  im- 
portant that  of  the  Ministry  of  Foreign  Relations  (State 
Department),  where  in  iron  cases  are  the  treaties  with  foreign 
nations  since  1811,  some  of  these,  real  works  of  art,  superbly 
engrossed  on  parchment  with  enormous  wax  seals.  The  en- 
trance on  the  north  side  gives  access  to  two  large  and  elegant 
salons  where  receptions  and  banquets  are  given  by  the  Presi- 
dent, his  official  residence  occupying  this  end  of  the  building. 
The  banquet  salon,  richly  furnished  in  Louis  XV  style,  con- 
tains a  central  chandelier,  a  notable  work  of  art  made  in  the 
country  by  Azaretto.  There  is  also  a  fine  marble  figure  rep- 


BUENOS  AIRES  227 

resenting  the  Argentine  Republic,  and  there  are  busts  of  the 
various  Presidents.  Within  the  building  are  several  patios 
and  pleasant  reception  rooms.  Sentinels  abound,  but  the 
doors  are  open  and  on  business  days  at  the  usual  hours  the 
building  is  accessible  to  the  public.  On  feast  days,  if  neces- 
sary, permits  to  enter  may  be  obtained  from  the  Superin- 
tendent of  the  Palace. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Plaza,  coining  from  the  Palace, 
one  first  reaches  the  Chamber  of  Commerce,  in  1885  estab- 
lished in  its  present  edifice,  though  inaugurated  as  a  Bolsa 
de  Comercio  in  1854  with  118  members.  It  has  now  above 
4000,  and  is  a  very  important  establishment.  Operations  in 
1909  amounted  to  a  value  of  328  million  pesos.  The  same 
year  the  Clearing  House  account  for  banks  was  4%  billion 
pesos. 

In  the  same  block  at  the  corner  of  Reconquista  is  the 
Bank  of  the  Argentine  Nation,  the  most  powerful  institution 
in  the  Republic.  Founded  in  1902  with  a  debt  of  50  million 
pesos  in  bills  emitted  as  its  capital,  thanks  to  a  rigid  organic 
law,  excellent  administration,  and  the  honesty  of  its  directors, 
it  has  become  a  great  financial  power.  In  October,  1908,  the 
capital  was  increased  by  $17,800,000  gold  As  a  Bank  of 
the  State,  no  dividends  are  made,  the  animal  profit  of  fifty 
per  cent  being  converted  into  gold  reserve  and  added  to  the 
capital.  January  1,  1910,  the  capital  was  113  million  pesos, 
the  reserve  39  millions  gold.  The  bank  in  1910  had  121 
branches  in  the  provinces  and  8  agencies,  mostly  in  their  own 
buildings,  making  easy  the  commercial  transactions  for  cattle 
and  agriculture,  in  contrast  to  our  own  difficulties,  due  to 
the  silly  prejudice  against  a  Central  Bank,  so  serviceable  in 
all  other  countries,  It  performs  all  the  operations  of  other 
banks,  these  in  1909  amounting  to  645  million  pesos. 

At  the  west  end  of  the  north  side  is  the  Cathedral,  on  the 
spot  selected  by  Garay  for  the  church  in  1580,  when  a  simple 
structure  with  mud  walls  and  thatched  roof  served  the  pur- 
pose. An  edifice  with  arches  in  the  present  form  was  begun 
in  1701,  but  the  facade  in  imitation  of  the  Madeleine  in  Paris 
was  built  in  the  time  of  Rivadavia  by  the  architect  Catelin. 
The  great  semi-spherical  dome,  covered  on  the  outside  with 
blue  and  white  squares  in  the  Spanish  style,  is  a  contrast  to 


228  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

the  other  roofs.  The  interior  has  a  central  nave,  two  aisles 
and  a  transept,  well  proportioned  except  for  the  great  thick- 
ness of  the  pillars.  The  side  chapels  are  not  of  especial  im- 
portance save  the  third  on  the  right,  the  sepnlcher  of  the 
great  San  Martin,  liberator  of  Chile  and  Peru,  a  patriot  whose 
purity  of  motive,  possibly  his  ability,  equaled  that  of  Wash- 
ington, though  he  was  far  less  happy  in  the  contemporary 
appreciation  of  his  services ;  not  until  after  his  death  receiv- 
ing his  merited  honors.  The  octagonal  chapel  is  effectively 
lighted  from  a  small  dome  above.  Four  marble  plaques  bear 
the  names  Lima,  Chacabuco,  San  Lorenzo,  and  Maipu,  re- 
minding of  his  glorious  deeds.  In  the  center  a  bronze 
sarcophagus  containing  the  ashes  of  the  hero  has  several 
pediments  upon  a  broad  marble  base  which  bears  also  four 
marble  blocks.  On  three  of  these  stand  marble  statues,  in 
front,  that  of  Liberty,  at  the  sides,  Labor,  and  Commerce. 
The  block  in  the  rear  carries  laurels  and  palms  only,  with 
a  bas  relief  representing  the  battle  of  Maipu.  In  front  are 
the  arms  of  Argentina,  at  the  sides  those  of  Peru  and  Chile. 
On  the  right  stands  a  bust  of  the  great  patriot,  the  whole 
forming  a  worthy,  artistic,  and  most  impressive  monument. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  Plaza  at  the  corner  of  the  Avenida, 
with  entrance  on  the  latter,  is  the  Municipal  Palace  or  City 
Hall,  where  the  Executive  Department  of  the  City  Govern- 
ment has  been  located  since  1892,  the  Deliberative  Council 
meeting  at  Peru  272.  The  Intendente  or  Mayor  is  appointed 
for  two  years  by  the  President  with  the  approval  of  the 
Senate,  and  may  be  re-appointed.  The  Deliberative  Council 
of  22  is  also  named  by  the  President,  as  the  elections  formerly 
held  gave  poor  results.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Avenue  are 
the  Civil  Courts. 

The  Avenida  de  Mayo,  in  front  of  the  Capitol,  extends 
from  the  Plaza  de  Mayo  a  little  more  than  a  mile  to  the 
Plaza,  about  100  feet  wide,  paved  with  asphalt,  lined  with 
trees,  and  with  a  row  of  posts  for  electric  lights  in  the  center. 
Cut  through  the  block  between  Rivadavia,  originally  the  main 
street,  and  Victoria,  the  next  street  south,  at  a  cost  of  ten 
million  pesos,  it  was  opened  for  traffic  July  9,  1894.  It  is 
considered  by  some  the  finest  street  on  this  hemisphere,  others 
prefer  the  Avenida  Central  in  Rio,  while  all  who  admire  sky- 


BUENOS  AIRES  229 

scrapers  will  insist  that  it  is  not  to  be  compared  to  Fifth  Ave- 
nue, Adjoining  the  City  Hall,  is  seen  on  the  right  the  splen- 
did edifice  erected  by  Dr.  Jose  C.  Paz  for  La  Prenm.  As 
the  finest  newspaper  building  in  the  world  for  the  sole  use 
of  a  single  publication,  it  should  be  visited  by  every  traveler, 
though  only  certain  parts  are  open  for  inspection.  There 
are  five  stories  above  ground  and  two  below,  the  sub-basement 
containing  the  electric  fixtures  and  the  paper  storage  room. 
On  the  next  floor  is  the  machinery,  presses,  etc.,  with  a  room 
at  the  back  120  feet  long  and  25  deep  for  the  distribution 
of  papers.  On  the  ground  floor  on  the  Avenida  are  the 
bureaus  of  administration,  as  for  advertising,  etc.,  and  the 
museum;  while  fronting  on  Rivadavia  are  rooms  for  free 
consultation  with  physicians  and  lawyers.  One  flight  up,  a 
long  one,  for  ceilings  are  high,  but  there  is  a  good  elevator, 
are  the  handsome  rooms  of  the  chief  editors.  A  fine  salon 
with  luxurious  appointments,  Turkish  rugs,  furniture  up- 
holstered in  leather,  sofas  and  armchairs,  and  a  heavy  carved 
table,  is  the  reception  room,  where  gentlemanly  attendants 
in  uniform  are  at  your  service, — a  contrast  indeed  to  the  dingy 
hallways  where  people  are  kept,  by  often  pert  youths,  from 
entering  the  sacred  though  bare  and  noisy  quarters  of  the 
editorial  staff  of  some  of  our  great  and  wealthy  journals. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  large  patio  is  a  handsomely  decorated 
hall  seating  500,  with  furniture  of  red  and  gold,  used  only 
for  entertainments  for  the  employees.  On  the  next  floor  are 
various  editorial  rooms,  on  the  fourth  luxurious  apartments 
for  the  entertainment  of  distinguished  guests  from  abroad. 
At  the  top  are  rooms  for  photography,  composing,  etc.  On 
the  turret  is  a  statue  holding  a  powerful  electric  light,  the 
rays  of  which  are  visible  to  a  great  distance.  The  editor  of 
this  great  newspaper,  which  like  its  building  in  some  respects, 
for  instance  in  the  amount  of  its  telegraphic  despatches,  is 
superior  to  any  in  the  United  States,  is  Dr.  Adolfo  E.  Davila, 
who  has  held  the  office  since  1877.  To  him  the  paper  owes 
a  large  share  of  its  progress  which  is  deemed  worthy  of  its 
palatial  setting, 

A  little  farther  up  is  the  great  store  of  Gath  &  Chaves,  one 
of  the  best  in  the  city,  and  at  633  the  fine  building  of  the 
Progreso  or  Progress  Club.  Opposite  is  the  Diario  building, 


230  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

which  in  1911  had  just  been  afflicted  with  a  fire.  The  Diario 
is  an  important,  perhaps  the  leading  afternoon  paper.  Along 
the  way  are  many  hotels  and  other  business  structures.  Some 
of  the  buildings,  like  the  Prensa,  are  almost  covered  with 
electric  light  bulbs,  probably  remaining  from  the  Centennial 
display  in  1910,  when  lighted  obviously  producing  a  brilliant 
spectacle. 

At  the  upper  end  of  this  splendid  avenue,  beyond  a  large 
Plaza,  is  the  CAPITOL,  strongly  reminiscent  of  the  one  in 
Washington,  but  none  the  worse  for  that.  The  plans  were 
by  the  late  Victor  Meano ;  the  cost  was  $9,000,000.  It  may  be 
mentioned  in  passing  that  the  Plaza  in  front  was  constructed 
for  the  celebration  of  the  Centenary  in  the  short  space  of 
&0  days;  four  solid  blocks  of  buildings  were  torn  down, 
ground  was  filled  in,  leveled,  and  grassed,  walks  were  laid, 
trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers  planted,  fountains  with  colored 
waters,  obelisks,  candelabra,  and  statues  were  erected,  and  all 
done  at  a  cost  of  $5,000,000,  in  time  to  receive  their  guests 
in  1910.  And  «ra  call  South  Americans  slow!  Monuments 
to  the  Constituent  Assembly  of  1313,  the  Congress  of  1816, 
and  to  General  Mitre  are  to  be  added. 

The  central  facade  of  the  Capitol,  setting  a  trifle  back  from 
the  line  of  the  projecting  wings,  is  adorned  with  a  fine  portico 
and  approached  by  a  stately  staircase  having  on  each  side  an 
equestrian  statue.  The  central  dome  is  a  remarkable  work, 
the  pillars  supporting  it  covering  300  square  meters.  To 
sustain  the  weight  of  30,000  tons,  the  foundations  were  laid 
30  feet  deep,  and  an  inverted  dome  of  stone  was  fixed.  No 
one  should  fail  to  visit  the  top  of  the  great  dome,  which  pro- 
vides a  splendid  view  over  the  city  and  the  broad  river;  or 
the  magnificently  furnished  reception  halls  and  legislative 
chambers.  The  Senate  Chamber,  arranged  for  but  30  mem- 
bers, is  a  small  room  though  provided  with  two  galleries.  The 
larger  Chamber  of  Deputies  has  three  rows  of  galleries,  the 
first  for  the  diplomatic  corps  with  an  especial  reservation  for 
ladies,  some  of  whom  come  to  hear  the  debates.  The  acoustics 
are  said  to  be  poor  and  the  heating  inadequate.  There  are 
conference  rooms,  a  library,  rooms  for  secretaries,  etc.  The 
Houses  regularly  meet  from  May  1  to  the  end  of  September, 
but  the  sessions  are  usually  prolonged  until  January  by 


THE  CAPITOL  PLAZA,   BUENOS   AIRES 


PALERMO   PARK 


BUENOS  AIRES  231 

Executive  Decree.  The  Deputies  meet  Monday,  Wednesday, 
and  Friday  at  three,  the  Senate  on  the  alternate  days.  The 
Chamber  of  Deputies,  semi-circular  in  form,  has  130  seats 
besides  eight  for  the  Ministers,  here  admitted  to  their  delib- 
erations. There  is  a  platform  for  the  President  and  two 
secretaries.  Behind  the  Presidential  chair  is  a  portrait  of 
Valentin  Alsina. 

Mow  the  platform  is  a  table  for  stenographers,  two  of 
whom  write  a  report  of  the  proceedings,  published  the 
day  following.  •  Members  speak  from  their  places  receiv- 
ing polite  attention,  especially  noticeable  in  comparison  with 
the  practice  in  Assemblies  of  older  nations.  There  is  no 
division  of  seats  for  political  parties,  nor  special  garb  for 
President  or  Ministers.  Each  Deputy  has  a  desk  with  writing 
material.  For  each  33,000  people,  and  for  an  additional  half 
as  many  more,  one  Deputy  is  elected  for  four  years,  receiving 
a  salary  of  18,000  pesos.  Every  two  years  one  half  of  the 
House  is  renewed.  The  Senate  Chamber  also  has  seats  for 
the  Ministers.  The  Vice  President,  according  to  the  Consti- 
tution, is  the  presiding  officer.  Strangers  of  distinction  de- 
siring to  visit  the  sessions  of  Congress  may  obtain  from  the 
Secretary  cards  of  admission  to  the  galleries. 

The  characteristic  of  the  city  first  obvious  is  its  extreme 
neatness,  in  strong  contrast  to  our  chief  cities;  then  the  nar- 
row streets  of  the  business  section  and  the  absence  of  sky- 
scrapers, each  of  which  will  seem  to  Americans  generally  an, 
evidence  of  backwardness  and  provincialism.  The  former 
certainly  is  a  great  defect,  inherited  from  colonial  times, 
which  the  officials  of  recent  days  have  been  and  still  are 
endeavoring  to  remedy.  As  the  widening  of  all  the  streets 
at  once  was  obviously  impossible,  to  relieve  the  congestion 
of  traffic  and  to  beautify  the  city,  the  Avenida  de  Mayo  was 
constructed.  Soon  two  diagonals,  wonderfully  diminishing 
the  present  difficulty,  will  be  cut  from  the  north-  and  south- 
west corners  of  the  Plaza  de  Mayo  through  the  busiest  parts 
of  the  city.  Although  the  streets  in  the  center  are  only  33 
feet  wide,  since  the  buildings  have  mostly  but  two  or  three 
stories,  they  do  not  lack  air  and  light,  as  in  so  many  of  the 
streets  of  New  York;  the  height  of  all  buildings  being  limited 
according  to  the  width  of  the  street  on  which  it  stands,  an 


232  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

excellent  and  necessary  rule.    All  of  these  narrow  central 
streets  are  one  way  thoroughfares,  both  for  cars  and  other 
vehicles.    Natty  policemen  stand,  not  at  a  few,  but  at  dozens 
of  busy  corners,  regulating  traffic.    Yet  in  spite  of  their  best 
efforts  blocks  are  frequent,  sometimes  delaying  cars  for  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes.    It  may  be  mentioned  that  the  city  has, 
in  proportion  to  the  inhabitants,  twice  as  many  policemen 
as  New  York,  generally  courteous  and  obliging.    In  order 
to  help  a  little,  the  corners  of  many  buildings  and  side- 
walks have  been  chopped  off  in  accordance  with  a  law  pro- 
mulgated some  years  ago,  though  long  not  strictly  enforced. 
Many  of  these  old  streets  will  be  widened  in  time,  as  new 
buildings  must  be  set  10  or  12  feet  farther  back,  a  temporary 
disfigurement,  ultimately  of  great  advantage.    "West  of  the 
Capitol  all  streets  are  wider.    New  ones  must  have  a  breadth 
of  at  least  60  feet.    In  the  newer  sections  are  many  beautiful 
broad  avenues,  the  Santa  Fe  and  Alvear  in  some  respects 
surpassing  the  Avenida.    There  is  an  excellent  service  of 
electric  cars,  one  writer  says  the  best  on  this  hemisphere, 
already  supplemented  by  a  subway  now  being  constructed 
from  the  Plaza  de  Mayo  to  Plaza  11  de  Setembro.    This  one 
completed,  others  will  be  promptly  begun;  not  as  in  New 
York  ten  years  after  they  should  have  been  finished.    For  in 
Buenos  Aires,  packing  like  sardines  is  not  permitted,  as  will 
be  discovered,  perhaps  with  indignation,  when  a  car  marked 
campleto  passes  without  a  pause,  and  one  has  to  wait  several 
minutes  for  a  second  or  a  third.    Within,  all  are  comfortable, 
the  seats,  each  for  two,  facing  the  front  with  an  aisle  between, 
where  no  one  is  allowed  to  stand;  on  the  broad  rear  platform 
six  only  are  permitted.    With  carriages  so  cheap,  anyone  in 
a  hurry  can  easily  afford  to  patronize  them.    The  cars  with 
large  figures  in  front,  as  in  Chile,  a  fashion  which,  might  well 
be  introduced  in  our  cities,  are  easily  distinguished ;  the  hotel 
porters  and  the  policemen  being  usually  able  to  tell  you  two 
or  three  numbers  of  the  several  cars  which  may  take  you  to 
your  destination,  and  the  points  at  which,  these  are  to  be 
found.    Also  a  little  red  guide  book,  Gwa  Peuser,  purchas- 
able for  10  centavoSy  will  give  all  necessary  information  as  to 
railways  and  electric  ears,  carriage  tariffs,  etc. 
An  afternoon  drive  may  be  taken  in  auto,  car,  or  carriage. 


BUENOS  AIRES  23J 

Setting  out  in  good  season,  one  may  first  traverse  a  fey 
streets  in  the  center  of  the  city,  the  fashionable  Florida  t< 
Plaza  San  Martin,  returning  by  Reconquista  to  the  Plaza  d« 
Mayo,  cross  down  to  Parque  9th  of  July  below  the  govern- 
ment Palace,  then  go  by  Paseo  de  Julio  and  Avenue  Alveaz 
to  Parque  3rd  of  February,  commonly  called  Palermo.  After 
a  drive  in  the  park  return  may  be  made  by  Santa  Fe  and 
Callao  to  the  Capitol  building  and  upper  end  of  the  Avenue, 
or  by  other  streets  past  the  Recoleta,  the  Aguas  Corrientea, 
etc. 

The  calle  Florida  is  par  excellence  the  fashionable  prom- 
enade of  the  city.  Though  narrow  like  the  others  and  but  ten 
blocks  long,  it  is  distinguished  from  the  rest  by  having  no  car 
tracks  and  is  lined  by  many  of  the  most  fashionable  shops, 
beginning  with  Gath  &  Chaves  extending  from  the  Avenue  to 
Rivadavia;  though  to  be  accurate,  this  is  on  Peru  instead  of 
Florida,  the  old  Rivadavia  street  being  the  dividing  line 
where  the  names  change  and  the  numbering  each  way  begins, 
instead  of  the  Avenue  as  would  seem  more  natural  Besides 
many  of  the  best  shops,  there  are  on  Florida  many  fine  resi- 
dences, among  these  one  between  B.  Mitre  and  Cangallo  be- 
longing to  the  Guerrero  family  5  one  on  the  left  in  the  Louis 
XV  style  between  Corrientes  and  Lavalle,  the  home  of  Juan 
Pena  ;  opposite  is  that  of  Juan  Cobo.  Beyond  Lavalle  on  the 
right  is  the  magnificent  home  of  the  Jockey  Glitb,  soon  to  be 
abandoned  for  a  larger  and  still  more  costly  establishment. 
This  Club,  noted  as  probably  the  richest  in  the  world,  with 
an  entrance  fee  of  £300,  nearly  $1500,  yet  having  a  consider- 
able waiting  list,  receives  so  large  an  income  from  the  receipts 
at  the  races  that  it  hardly  knows  what  to  do  with  it.  Its  pres- 
ent edifice  has  a  noticeable  facade,  a  fine  entrance  hall  and 
staircase,  on  the  first  landing  a  famous  Diana  sculptured  by 
FaJguieres.  Corinthian  columns,  ornamentation  of  onyx, 
ivory,  and  azul  are  part  of  the  decoration.  A  fine  banquet 
"hall,  various  dining-rooms,  luxurious  drawing  and  reading 
rooms,  rooms  for  cards,  billiards,  fencing,  baths,  etc,,  and  a 
few  to  which  ladies  are  admitted  with  a  member  for  afternoon 
tea>  unite  to  make  this  the  equal  of  any  Clubhouse  in  the 
world.  Beautiful  paintings  and  other  expensive  luxuries, 
like  tapestries  and  carving,  contribute  to  the  elegance  of  the 


234  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

establishment  On  moving  from  their  present  quarters  to  the 
much  larger  and  more  splendid  structure  now  being  erected 
near  the  Plaza  San  Martin,  the  Club  will  present  this  edifice 
to  the  Government  to  be  occupied  by  the  Department  of 
State. 

Beyond  on  the  same  side  between  Viamonte  and  Cordoba, 
a  large  building  with  arcades,  covered  by  a  glass  roof,  occu- 
pies the  entire  square.  This,  called  the  Bon  Marehe,  is  used 
naainly  as  an  office  building  and  contains  some  Bureaus  of 
various  Ministries.  Formerly  the  National  Museum  and  the 
Academy  of  Fine  Arts  were  here  located,  but  the  Museum 
or  Gallery  now  occupies  a  fine  building  on  Plaza  San  Martin, 
with  the  Academy  adjoining.  The  Florida  ends  at  this  Plaza, 
one  of  the  handsomest  of  the  city,  surrounded  by  many  splen- 
did edifices,  adorned  with  large  trees,  flowers,  shrubbery ;  and 
at  the  upper  end  an  equestrian  Statue  of  San  Martin.  The 
Art  5lB&eum  is  at  the  east  end  of  the  north  side ;  farther  west 
are  stately  residences,  as  also  on  the  south  side.  Here, 
between  Florida  and  Maipu  is  the  office  of  the  United  States 
Legation,  easily  distinguishable  by  the  United  States  Coat 
of  arms  above  the  door,  should  the  flag  not  be  floating  from 
the  projecting  staff.  Happily  in  the  South  American  coun- 
tries visited,  the  legations  are  all  suitably  housed,  though  it 
is  said  that  at  least  one  Minister  of  ours  to  Argentina,  paid 
more  for  his  house  rent  in  Buenos  Aires  than  his  entire  salary. 
It  is  obviously  not  a  position  to  be  sought  at  present  by  a 
man  with  only  his  talents  to  recommend  him.  Returning  by 
Reeonquista  one  would  pass  many  fine  business  blocks,  includ- 
ing banks* 

Driving  past  the  Government  Palace  and  turning  down  to 
the  left,  we  come  to  the  Parque  Wi  of  July  in  the  rear  of 
the  palace,  from  which  we  proceed  again  north  on  the  way 
to  Palermo.  Buenos  Aires  boasts  of  74  parks  and  plazas 
altogether,  with  an  extent  of  10  million  square  meters.  The 
9th  of  July  is  modeled  after  the  Champs  ISlysees,  having  a 
broad  avenue  with  gardens  of  the  Renaissance  style  on  each 
side.  It  begins  at  the  south  with  a  half  circle  in  which  a 
statue,  probably  Rivadavia,  was  to  be  placed.  In  the  middle 
is  a  circle  with  an  artistic  fountain  by  the  French  sculptor 
Moreao,  and  at  the  north  end,  opposite  Cangallo,  is  a  pretty 


BUENOS  AISES  235 

fountain  by  an  Argentine  artist,  Lola  Mora.  Along  Ike  way 
are  cafes,  restaurants,  and  concert  halls. 

Proceeding  along  the  Paseo  de  Julio,  with  its  line  of  shrubs 
and  flowers,  one  may  continue  by  the  fine  Avenue  Alvear 
through  the  most  fashionable  quarter  of  the  city.  The  Ave- 
nue, bordered  with  flowering  trees  and  palms,  is  lined  with 
palatial  mansions,  in  the  midst  of  beautiful  grounds  and 
gardens.  At  the  fashionable  hour  this  avenue  is  filled  with 
vehicles,  rented  victorias,  the  stately  carriages  of  the  resi- 
dents, and  many  automobiles,  which  although  numerous  have 
not  yet  seemed  to  lessen  the  multitude  of  carriages. 

Almost  too  soon  the  Park  is  reached,  its  formal  title,  the 
3rd  of  February,  recalling  the  defeat  of  the  tyrant  Rosas  in 
1852  by  General  Urquiza  with  an  army  of  soldiers  from  Ar- 
gentina, Uruguay,  and  Brazil,  Eosas  then,  fleeing  to  an  Eng- 
lish ship  and  to  permanent  exile.  He  formerly  resided  on 
the  site  of  the  Round  Point.  This  park  covering  3,677,000 
square  meters  corresponds  to  Central  Park,  New  York,  or 
Hyde  Park,  London,  though  it  is  more  at  one  side,  being  on 
the  border  of  La  Plata  River-  The  many  beautiful,  shaded 
avenues  are,  on  the  dies  de  modo  or  days  of  fashion,  thronged 
with  carriages  before  or  after  dinner  according  to  the  season, 
when  thousands  of  people  may  be  seen  enjoying  the  spectacle 
as  well  as  the  fresh  air,  the  ladies  displaying  magnificent 
toilets  for  the  pleasure  of  all  beholders. 

The  drive  should  be  continued  to  the  lake,  where  the 
charming  pagoda-like  Restaurant  of  the  Lake  will  be  admired. 
At  certain  times  and  seasons,  it  is  quite  the  thing  to  enjoy  here 
at  the  price  of  three  pesosy  a  cup  of  afternoon  tea,  etc.,  to  the 
accompaniment  of  a  good  orchestra.  At  a  kiosk  on  the  round 
point  of  the  lake,  La  Granja  Blanca  offers  for  refreshment 
sterilized  rmlfr  and  other  dairy  products.  Not  far  distant 
is  the  Restaurant  Palermo^  to  which  persons  wishing  to  dine 
there  are  gratuitously  conveyed  from  the  center  of  the  city. 
Excellent  entertainment  with  good  orchestral  music  is  said 
to  be  provided  at  a  moderate  price  for  this  city. 

Within  the  area  of  the  park  are  included  enclosures  for 
various  sports.  Close  to  the  lake  is  the  ground  of  the  Cricket 
Club  with  chiefly  English  members.  Enclosed  by  the  ave- 
nues Pampa,  Ombu,  Alsina,  and  Palomar,  covering  a  space  of 


236  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

about  125  acres,  are  the  Golf  Links  of  the  Argentine  Club, 
with  a  course  of  5300  yards.  A  Gymnastic  and  Fencing  Club 
possesses  a  fine  court  for  their  exercises,  where  much  fre- 
quented contests  are  often  held,  as  also  in  the  bicycle  track. 
The  northwest  end  of  the  Park  is  occupied  by  a  Rifle  Range, 
covering  10,000  square  meters.  An  imposing  facade  is  flanked 
by  two  towers  60  feet  high,  from  which  a  magnificent  pan- 
orama may  be  witnessed.  Three  large  gateways  with  glazed 
iron  doors  open  into  a  vestibule  80  feet  long,  from  which  two 
doorways  lead  to  the  shooting  galleries,  300  feet  long  and  20 
wide;  38  targets  all  double  and  movable  give  ample  oppor- 
tunity for  shooting,  eight  at  a  distance  of  150  feet  for  revolver 
practice,  twenty  at  1200,  and  ten  at  1600  feet,  for  rifle  shoot- 
ing- Shields  of  iron  and  banks  of  earth  give  protection 
against  poor  shots.  Admission  is  free  and  any  one  by  pay- 
ing for  the  cartridges  will  be  supplied -with  arms  and  allowed 
to  practice  to  his  heart's  content.  Contests  both  national 
and  international  are  frequently  organized. 

Near  the  rifle  range  is  the  great  hippodrome.  Beyond  it, 
outside  the  park,  is  a  field  of  30  acres  belonging  to  the  Argen- 
tine Sporting  Association.  This  contains  a  track  of  3500  feet 
for  trotting  races  with  sulkies,  and  one  of  3200  feet  for  ob- 
stacle races  with  hurdles,  fences?  and  ditches  of  water.  The 
space  in  the  center  of  the  course  is  used  for  polo  and  football. 
Clubs  from  Uruguay  and  South  Africa  have  participated  in 
games  held  here  by  the  Argentine  Football  League. 

The  glimpse  now  gained  of  the  Argentine  Hippodrome  will 
incite  to  a  visit  on  one  of  the  gala  days,  Thursday  and  Sun- 
day, when  many  will  enjoy  a  display  superior  to  anything 
of  the  sort  previously  witnessed.  Nothing  in  the  United  States 
approaches  it.  While  some  Americans  asserted  that  this  was 
the  finest  Racing  Ground  in  the  world,  a  gentleman  of  Buenos 
Aires  stated  that  it  hardly  equaled  Longehamps.  However, 
the  buildings  here  are  superior.  The  spectators  are  accom- 
modated in  a  row  of  great  white  stands,  that  for  the  especial 
use  of  the  members  of  the  Jockey  Club  and  their  families  being 
largely  of  white  marble  and  capped  with  a  graceful  roofing. 
Behind  the  upper  rows  of  seats  is  a  spacious  promenade  with 
tables  for  afternoon  tea,  and  farther  back  large  and  well  ap- 
pointed club  rooms. 


JOCKEY    CLUB    STAND,    HIPPODROME 


CENTENNIAL   EXPOSITION,   RURAL   SOCIETY 


BUENOS  AIRES  237 

Worthy  of  attention  is  the  long  series  of  other  white  build- 
ings, elaborate  and  spacious,  for  all  required  purposes,  also 
the  space  enclosed  by  the  track:  not  the  usual  bare  field  but 
a  plat  decorated  with  flower  beds,  greenery,  and  rivulets 
crossed  by  little  white  bridges.  There  are  three  tracks  one 
inside  another,  the  outermost  a  mile  and  three  quarters  in 
length.  The  grounds  outside  the  track  are  embellished  with 
flowers,  lawns,  and  trees,  the  eucalyptus,  pines,  and  palms; 
an  excellent  band  discourses  music;  while  a  throng  of  gaily 
dressed  people,  the  men  (at  least  the  Argentines),  in  fault- 
less attire,  the  ladies  in  elegant  Parisian  costumes  with  a  lib- 
eral display  of  jewelry,  contribute  to  the  brilliant  spectacle. 

The  season  is  a  long  one,  continuing  from  March  4  to 
December  30,  with  56  regular  functions.  The  races  are  of 
a  high  order  (the  riders  generally  Argentine),  the  most  im- 
portant being  for  the  Jockey  Club  Prize,  Sept.  8,  the  Cup  of 
Honor,  Sept.  16,  the  National  Prize,  Oct.  7,  and  the  Inter- 
national, Oct.  28.  These  are  the  true  Society  events,  the 
dates  varying  slightly  with  the  year.  On  these  occasions  the 
throng  is  so  great  that  movement  is  impossible.  In  1905 
the  winner  of  the  National  Prize  received  $27,000  and  the 
sale  of  tickets  reached  $346,000.  In  the  year  1906,  the  betting 
at  two  pesos  a  ticket  was  equal  to  $20,000,000.  Persons  of 
distinction  or  with  influential  friends  may  be  able  to  procure 
an  invitation  to  the  official  stand.  For  seven  pesos,  tickets 
may  be  purchased  admitting  to  everything  except  that,  or  for 
two  pesos  to  the  old  stand  and  four  to  the  new. 

To  attend  the  races  one  may  go  by  train,  every  five  minutes, 
from  Retire  Station,  by  tram  (15  civs.)  marked  Carreres 
from  Parque  de  Julio,  by  carriage  at  two  pesos  an  hour,  or 
with  a  livery  carriage  for  15  pesos  the  afternoon. 


CHAPTER  XXIV 
BUENOS  AIRES— CONTINUED 

LEAFING  Palermo  Park  by  the  broad  Ave.  Sarmiento,  one 
lias  on  the  left  the  Zoological  Garden ;  on  the  right,  a  feature 
of  Argentine  life  of  the  highest  importance,  the  buildings  and 
grounds  of  the  Rural  Society,  granted  by  the  Government  to 
the  Society  for  the  annual  agricultural  and  cattle  shows. 
Upon  grounds  which  cover  180,000  square  meters  are  fine  pa- 
vilions for  various  purposes ;  stables  accommodating  500  horses 
or  cattle,  park  room  for  736,  a  roofed  space  for  3500  sheep, 
an  enclosure  of  4500  square  meters  as  show  ground,  with  two 
stands  seating  2000  persons.     There  are  three  large  pavilions 
and  others  smaller  for  the  display  of  agricultural  machinery 
and  products,  and  an  immense  kiosk  for  the  products  of  the 
dairy.    The  exhibitions,  occurring  in  the  months  of   Sep- 
tember and  October,  concluding  with  horse  races,  are  a  social 
event.    In  order  to  appreciate  the  leading  position  in  such 
matters  held  by  Argentina,  one  must  attend  one  of  these  ex- 
positions, so  well  conducted  as  to  have  attained  a  degree  of 
perfection  unsurpassed  in  the  world  in  the  number  and  pure 
blood  of  animals  exhibited.     These  expositions,  organized  by 
Benor  G.  A.  de  Posadas  in  1858,  have  been  a  powerful  in- 
fluence in  the  improvement  of  stock  and  in  the  pride  taken  in 
blooded  animals.     They  were  the  starting  point  of  Argentine 
stock  breeding.     The  Sociedad  Enrol  was  organized  in  1866. 
During  the  Presidency  of  Sarmiento  1868-74,  an  Agricul- 
tural Bureau  was  organized,  and  in  1898  the  Ministry  of 
Agriculture,  a  prime  necessity  in  view  of  the  staple  indus- 
tries of  the  country.    1905  was  the  record  year  for  the  ex- 
hibition of  cattle,  with  2389  head,  after  which  a  limit  was 
fixed  to  the  number  of  entries  in  each  class  by  one  exhibitor. 
The  variety  of  cattle  most  favored  is  the  Shorthorn,  forming 
88  per  cent,  9  per  cent  are  Heref  ords  and  there  are  some  Dur- 

238 


BUENOS  AIRES  239 

hams  and  other  breeds.  Of  the  sheep,  more  are  Lineolns, 
of  horses,  Clydesdales  and  Percberons,  with  some  Morgan 
race  horses.  The  leading  nations  of  Europe  took  part  in 
the  International  Exposition,  June,  1910.  At  the  National 
Exhibition  in  September,  the  sales  amounted  to  over 
$7,000,000, 

A  separate  Fat  Stock  show  is  now  held,  with  high  priced 
sales  and  with  frozen  meat  sent  to  England.  Congress  has 
devoted  100,000  pesos  annually  to  such  an  exhibit. 

The  fine  studs  of  the  country  contain  400  thorough-bred 
stallions  and  3000  brood  mares,  producing  1500  foals  yearly. 
There  are  66,500  thorough-bred  horses.  Ormonde,  purchased 
for  £19,000,  was  sold  in  the  United  States  for  £23,000. 
Diamond  Jubilee  cost  30,000  guineas,  Flying  Fox  37,000. 
Cyllene,  bought  for  £30,000  was  sought  for  at  double  the 
price  to  be  returned.  The  sons  of  these  horses,  raised  in  this 
splendid  climate,  are  excellent  runners. 

In  the  agricultural  section  are  exhibited  cereals  and  other 
products;  from  the  north,  coffee,  cotton,  and  tobacco;  more 
important,  the  linseed,  wheat,  corn,  and  rape,  also  beans  and 
peas,  woods,  fruits,  wools,  ostrich  feathers,  grape  and  wine 
products,  potatoes,  sugar  cane,  yerba  mate ;  minerals, — marble, 
onyx,  petroleum,  silver; — agricultural  machinery,  pumps  for 
watering  stock,  windmills,  engines,  threshing  machines, 
shearers,  locust  destroying  machines,  etc. 

At  the  Bound  Point  of  this  Avenue  is  a  Statue  of  Domingo 
-F*  Sarvmento  (after  whom  the  avenue  is  named)  by  the 
sculptor  Rodin.  Unveiled  May  25,  1900,  it  represents  Sar- 
miento  advancing  over  the  laurels  which  have  fallen  at  his 
feet,  his  face  expressing  the  serenity,  decision,  and  energy, 
which  characterized  him. 

The  statue  rests  upon  a  block  of  marble,  on  the  face  of 
which  Apollo,  the  god  of  light  and  thought  advances,  dis- 
pelling shadows,  while  the  Python,  representing  Ignorance 
and  Foulness  slinks  back  in  death.  Two  other  statues  in  the 
Park  are,  one,  in  front  of  the  Administration  Building,  of  Dr. 
Carlos  G.  Burmeister,  who  was  many  years  director  of  the 
Museum  of  Natural  History,  the  other  of  Dr.  Eduardo  Costa, 
a  remarkable  jurist  who  rendered  great  services  to  the  State. 

On  the  Avenue  are  seen  two  bronze  lions,  reproductions 


240  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

of  those  at  the  Palace  of  Luxembourg  in  Paris.  They  have 
been  much  admired,  as  the  most  perfect  representations  of 
these  animals  jet  produced. 

At  the  end  of  the  short  Ave.  Sarmiento  is  the  Plaza  Italia, 
adorned  with  &  striking  monument  by  the  sculptor  Macagnani 
of  General  Giuseppe  Garibaldi,  the  gift  of  resident  Italians 
and  Argentines  uniting  in  a  sentiment  of  fraternal  admiration 
for  the  hero,  who  is  here  represented  on  horseback  The 
monument,  inaugurated  June  2,  1&04,  has  below  at  the  sides 
of  the  pediment  two  statues;  one,  Victory,  who  many  times 
crowned  the  hero  with  laurels,  the  other,  Liberty,  for  which 
he  shed  his  blood.  Excellent  bas-reliefs  represent  episodes  in 
Garibaldi's  life. 

In  the  angle  between  Sarmiento  and  Avenue  Las  Heras  as 
the  entrance  to  the  Zoological  Garden  and  between  the  latter 
and  Santa,  F6  an  entrance  to  the  Botanical  Garden,  this  not 
always  open,  the  principal  gateway  being  in  the  middle  of 
Hie  side  on  Santa  F6,  No.  3951.  To  each  of  these  Gardens 
an  entire  half  day  should  if  possible  be  devoted  and  some 
persons  would  enjoy  a  longer  time  in  each.  Now  observing 
only  their  location,  we  return  to  the  city  in  time  for  dinner 
by  Ave,  Santa  F6,  a  street  about  ten  miles  long,  extending 
from  Plaza  San  Martin  out  to  the  suburb  Belgrano.  At  No. 
3795  adjoining  the  Botanical  Garden  is  the  National  Con- 
servatory of  Vaccitwfion  (dependent  on  the  Department  of 
Hygiene)  where  children  are  vaccinated  by  thousands  and 
from  which  vaccine  is  sent  to  all  parts  of  the  Republic  except 
the  Province  of  Buenos  Aires.  On  the  other  side  of  the 
Avenue,  on  the  corner  of  Uriarte,  is  an  Association  of  young 
Society  ladies,  called  Las  Filomenas,  its  purpose  that  of  giv- 
ing to  poor  children  a  practical  education  by  teaching  them. 
a  trade.  A  new  route  will  be  by  the  broad  Ave.  Callao  to 
Ave.  de  Mayo,  but  thus  will  be  missed  many  fine  residences 
on  Santa  F6  which,  however,  will  keep  for  the  next  time. 

To  see  the  Botanical  Garden  one  may  drive  rapidly  about, 
or  take  the  leisurely  walk  which  is  necessary  fully  to  appre- 
ciate its  beauties.  This  important  institution,  said  to  be  un- 
equaled  in  the  world,  is  the  work  of  the  celebrated  Carlos 
Thays,  its  organizer  and  director.  His  red  brick  residence 
ii  directly  in  front  of  the  Tn^n  gateway.  Just  within  the 


BOTANICAL   GAUl'EN 


ZOOLOGICAL    GARDEN",    HOUSE    OF   ZEBUS 


242  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

birds,  -while  smaller  ones  hold  other  varieties,  lovely  white 
parrots,  and  some  entirely  pink  with  curious  head  feathers, 
probably  macaws.  These,  with  the  beautiful  white  peacocks, 
are  especially  fascinating;  the  black  and  white  swans  are 
noticeable.  Many  other  animals,  snakes,  etc.,  too  numerous 
to  mention,  are  also  on  exhibition.  In  attractive  restaurants 
a  large  dish  of  ice  cream  may  be  had  for  30  civs.,  and  various 
other  viands. 

Less  extensive  than  the  great  collection  in  the  Bronx,  the 
animals  are  more  magnificently  housed,  and  across  the  beauti- 
ful lakes  the  Garden  has  many  vistas  of  romantic  beauty. 

In  the  central  portion  of  the  city  are  many  attractions 
meriting  the  attention  of  the  tourist.  The  Museum  of  Fine 
Arts  on  Plaza  San  Martin,  northeast  corner,  contains  a  worthy 
collection  of  paintings,  chiefly  of  the  modern  French  School. 
This  Museum,  decreed  by  the  National  Government,  July  16, 
1895,  was  organised  by  Edward  Schiaffino  and  opened  Dec. 
25,  1896.  The  collection  has  been  formed  from  a  legacy  by 
Adrian  E.  Rossi  of  81  canvases,  donations  from  a  large 
number  of  private  individuals,  works  of  art  belonging  to  the 
State  previously  scattered  in  various  public  buildings,  and 
by  many  purchases.  It  includes  a  considerable  number  of 
pieces  of  sculpture.  Among  the  paintings  of  various  schools 
may  be  observed  the  familiar  names  of  Puvis  de  Chavannes, 
Meissonier,  Van  Ostade,  Luca  Giordano,  Corot,  and  dozens 
more.  The  collection  is  well  arranged  and  lighted,  and  a  full 
half  day  is  requisite  to  give  a  cursory  glance  at  the  fine  works 
of  art  here  assembled. 

A  number  of  private  galleries  in  the  city  afford  evidence  of 
refined  taste  and  of  the  desire  of  persons  of  great  wealth 
to  acquire  collections  of  artistic  worth.  To  visit  these  in  the 
homes  of  their  possessors,  persons  desiring  the  privilege  should 
endeavor  to  procure  a  card  of  introduction,  though  in  some 
cases  permission  may  be  gained  by  direct  application  to  the 
owners,  who  courteously  receive  strangers,  whether  amateurs 
or  artists.  The  gallery  of  the  estate  of  Jose  Prudeneio  de 
Guerrico,  Corrientes,  537,  is  a  museum  of  art  as  well  as 
picture  gallery,  called  one  of  the  first  in  South  America. 
With  many  others  it  contains  works  of  Daubigny,  Corot,  Diaz, 
ileissonier,  Greuze,  Rosa  Bonheur.  The  gallery  of  Parmenio 


BUENOS  AIRES  243 

T.  Pinero,  Corrientes,  633,  has  a  splendid  specimen  of  Sorolla, 
a  fine  example  of  Castro  Plaeencia,  with  works  of  Dore, 
Bonheur,  Fortuny,  etc.  At  Talcahuano  1138,  the  salon  of 
Laurent  Pellerano  presents  paintings,  classical,  international, 
and  Argentine,  40  of  Italian  artists,  18  Spanish  including 
Murillo  and  Sorolla,  9  French  and  a  good  number  of  Argen- 
tine. In  the  salon  of  Dr.  Joseph  E.  Semprun,  Tueuman  757, 
is  a  collection  of  various  styles,  with  many  fine  works  pur- 
chased in  Europe  since  1830.  The  gallery  of  Jean  Canter, 
B.  Mitre  516,  contains  paintings,  sculpture,  pottery,  and  en- 
graving of  various  styles  and  periods.  The  gallery  at  Maipu 
929,  belonging  to  Piladeo  Soldaini,  open  on  Sundays  from 
one  to  three,  has  a  collection  especially  of  Italian  and  Spanish 
artists  with  more  than  50  different  signatures.  At  Paraguay, 
1327,  in  the  home  of  General  Garmendia  are  150  paintings 
including  canvases  of  rare  merit  by  unknown  and  by  famous 
artists,  and  portraits  of  members  of  the  family,  with  an  in- 
teresting museum  of  armor  of  the  fifteenth  and  sixteenth  cen- 
turies, fire  arms,  poniards,  and  daggers  of  various  periods, 
historic  swords  of  Gen.  San  Martin,  Rozas,  and  others,  and 
personal  relies  of  the  Paraguayan  war  in  which  the  General 
was  engaged 

The  Museum  of  Natural  History  at  the  corner  of  Peru  and 
Alsina,  with  entrance  on  the  former,  is  of  great  value ;  but  in 
1911  was  so  badly  housed  that  a  small  portion  only  of  its 
treasures  were  visible.  Decreed  by  the  Assembly,  May  27, 
1812,  and  actually  installed  after  an  ordinance  of  Rivadavia, 
Dee.  31,  1823,  little  was  accomplished  until  the  fall  of  the 
tyrant  Eozas.  At  length  the  post  of  Director  was  offered  to  a 
professor  of  the  German  University  of  Halle,  Charles  Germain 
Conrad  Burmeister,  who,  by  a  previous  journey  to  Brazil 
and  Rio  de  la  Plata,  had  greatly  advanced  scientific  knowledge 
of  the  fauna  and  flora  of  these  regions.  Dr.  Burmeister, 
landing  in  Buenos  Aires  September,  1861,  developed  the 
institution  into  a  renowned  scientific  establishment.  The  re- 
markable paleozoologie  section  has  a  world  wide  reputation. 
Fossil  animals  of  the  antediluvian  epoch,  largely  derived  from 
the  Argentine  pampa,  were  reconstructed  by  the  scientist, 
who  wrote  many  works  embodying  the  result  of  painful  re- 
search in  reference  to  prehistoric  creatures.  After  30  years 


244  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUE 

of  service  the  great  scholar  at  the  advanced  age  of  95,  re- 
solved to  retire,  but  anxious  for  the  continuance  of  his  work 
he  first  secured  the  appointment  of  Dr.  Charles  Berg,  pre- 
viously in  Montevideo.  To  Dr.  Burmeister,  who  believed 
that  the  Museum  was  for  the  benefit  of  science  and  not  to 
gratify  idle  curiosity,  is  due  the  fact  that  the  Museum  is  so 
badly  housed ;  as  when  a  new  edifice  was  proposed  he  said 
he  would  be  buried  there  rather  than  leave.  Many  improve- 
ments in  the  display  of  objects  have  been  made  by  Dr.  Berg, 
but  want  of  light  and  space  is  apparent,  and  the  collection 
will  soon  be  transferred  to  a  building  in  consonance  with  its 
merits.  The  present  edifice  is  an  ancient  cloister  of  the  Jesuits 
in  which  the  University  was  installed  Nov.  3,  1783.  The 
greater  part  of  the  visible  exposition  is  up  one  flight.  Of 
especial  interest  are  the  enormous  skeletons  of  pre-historie 
animals.  The  Museum  has  five  sections,  including  Zoology, 
Paleontology,  Ethnology,  Botany,  and  one  of  Geology  and 
Mineralogy;  also  a  library  of  more  than  10,000  volumes, 
chiefly  important  works  for  the  study  of  Natural  History. 

No  one  should  fail  to  visit  the  National  Historical  Museum 
in  the  Parque  Lezama,  open  on  Thursdays  and  Sundays  from 
noon  to  four,  and  entered  from  calle  Defensa,  1600.  The 
six  rooms  and  a  gallery  are  so  crowded  with  relics  that  the 
Government  is  planning  the  construction  of  an  edifice  more 
worthy  to  preserve  the  trophies  of  the  glorious  record  of  the 
country's  history.  The  better  one's  acquaintance  with  this 
history,  the  far  greater  pleasure  in  the  examination  of  these 
relies  of  the  past;  but  at  least  a  casual  glance  is  due  from 
every  traveler.  The  Museum  was  created  in  1890  as  a  mu- 
nicipal institution  by  Senor  Adolph  P.  Carranza,  with  191 
objects:  private  donations,  and  trophies  previously  preserved 
in  the  Government  Palace  and  the  Natural  History  Museum. 
In  1891,  it  became  national  in  character  and  since  Sept.  1897, 
it  has  been  in  its  present  locality.  In  1907,  it  contained 
4500  pieces,  not  all  on  exhibition  on  account  of  insufficient 
space.  At  the  left  of  the  entrance  are  the  offices,  at  the  right, 
the  salons.  The  library,  originating  with  a  gift  of  Director 
Carranza,  contains  1500  volumes  of  American  History  and 
MS.  of  great  importance.  The  Museum  has  a  rich  collection 
of  numismatics,  4000  pieces,  including  rare  examples  of  medals 


BUENOS  AIRES  245 

commemorating  the  epoch  of  Independence,  and  many  of 
other  periods.  In  the  first  salon  may  be  seen  on  the  left 
a  celebrated  plaque  of  silver  with  reliefs  in  gold  sent  in  Au- 
gust, 1807,  by  the  Corporation  of  Oruro,  Bolivia,  to  Buenos 
Aires,  and  to  General  Liniers,  to  commemorate  the  retaking 
of  the  city.  Above  is  the  sword  of  the  British  General  Beres- 
ford,  surrendered  by  him  at  the  time  of  capture.  From  the 
plaque  is  suspended  a  shield  no  less  famous,  called  Tarja  de 
Potosi,  of  gold  and  silver,  presented  by  the  ladies  of  that  city 
to  the  general  and  patriot,  Manuel  Belgrano;  and  with  this 
are  medals  in  memory  of  his  triumphs  at  Salta  and  Tucuman. 
In  this  and  other  rooms  are  two  royal  Spanish  standards,  one 
dating  from  1605 ;  portraits  of  Viceroys ;  explorers,  as  Valdi- 
via,  Mendoza,  Ponce  de  Leon,  discoverer  of  Florida,  Pizarro, 
and  others;  many  pictures  of  battles;  furniture,  dishes,  and 
other  relics  of  distinguished  men.  At  the  doorway  of  the  third 
salon,  is  a  silver  statue  of  the  British  Minister,  George  Can- 
ning, presented  in  1857  to  Dr.  Alsina.  In  the  salon  is  a 
reconstruction  of  the  chamber  in  which  San  Martin  lived  and 
died,  the  furniture,  pictures,  etc.,  given  by  his  descendants, 
with  pictures  of  the  battles  in  which  he  fought,  and  a  hundred 
other  interesting  objects.  In  the  fourth  room  is  preserved  un- 
der a  glass  his  uniform  as  Protector  of  Peru,  and  his  saber  of 
Moorish  style.  Medals,  flags,  and  various  other  interesting 
relics  are  here  also.  The  sixth  room  has,  with  other  relies, 
trophies,  and  representations  of  the  war  with  Paraguay. 

The  Libraries  of  the  city  will  be  visited  by  tourists  of  literary 
tastes  if  not  by  others.  The  National  Library  was  founded  at 
the  very  birth  of  the  nation  in  1810,  by  the  Revolutionary 
Junta,  who  placed  in  charge  Dr,  Mariano  Moreno.  In  1796, 
the  prelate,  don  Manuel  Azamory  Eamirez,  had  at  his  death 
left  his  books  for  this  object,  but  the  English  invasion  in  1806 
delayed  the  execution  of  the  plan.  The  project  received  en- 
thusiastic support  in  the  substantial  form  of  gifts.  Installed 
in  a  house  of  the  Jesuits  where  it  remained  till  1902,  it  was 
then  removed  to  its  present  quarters  on  calle  Mexico,  560- 
566,  soon  to  be  enlarged.  A  fine  vestibule  and  staircase  lead 
to  the  spacious  reading-room.  There  is  a  handsome  hall  for 
lectures,  and  the  ordinary  appurtenances  of  a  library.  The 
institution  in  1880  passed  from  the  hands  of  the  City  to  the 


246  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

Government,  when  Buenos  Aires  was  federalized.  The  build- 
ing, heated  In  winter,  is  then  open  from  11.30  to  4;  in  sum- 
mer, from  noon  till  5.  The  last  figures  obtainable  were  of 
200,000  volumes  and  10,000  MS. 

Equally  interesting  is  the  Library  of  the  late  General  B. 
Mitre,  preserved  in  his  former  residence,  San  Martin,  336, 
where  he  died;  this,  Congress  has  decreed  a  public  monu- 
ment in  recognition  of  his  glorious  services  to  the  nation  as  a 
statesman,  a  writer,  and  a  soldier.  The  dissipation  of  the 
library  would  have  been  a  public  calamity.  It  is  a  bibliogra- 
phic treasure,  amassed  by  General  Mitre  during  fifty  years  of 
active  intellectual  life.  It  is  distinguished  by  American  his- 
torical works*  especially  documents  and  MS.  collected  for  his 
own  writings,  the  Story  of  Belgrano,  3  vol.  and  of  San 
Martin,  4  vol.  The  library  has  twelve  sections,  including 
the  works  on  the  pre-Columbian  native  races  of  America, 
their  languages,  culture,  geography,  etc.;  the  discovery  of 
America;  farther  exploration;  Rio  de  la  Plata  in  general 
and  particular;  Spanish  America;  Portuguese  America; 
North  America;  boundary  limits,  laws,  seals,  constitutions, 
treaties,  etc.;  with  letters  and  stamps.  I  was  interested  to 
observe  under  glass  a  letter  written  by  Sidney  S.  Rider  of 
Providence,  informing  the  General  of  Ms  election  as  an 
Honorary  Member  of  the  Rhode  Island  Historical  Society,  an 
evidence  that  his  fame  had  reached  one  corner  of  the  United 
States. 

The  Library  Bivadavia,  Lavalle,  935,  founded  May  20, 1879, 
by  the  Bernardino  Rivadavia  Association,  is  free  to  readers, 
but  the  members  pay  one  peso  a  month  for  the  privilege  of 
taking  out  books.  It  contains  about  30,000  volumes. 

The  Library  of  the  Sociedad  Tipogrdfica  Bonaerense,  Solis 
707,  with  more  than  5000  volumes,  is  noteworthy  as  receiving 
all  journals  and  reviews  of  the  Republic.  Open  7-10  p.  m. 
Entrance  free. 

There  are  especial  libraries :  that  of  the  Faculty  of  Medicine, 
Cordoba  2180,  open  daily  to  students  and  the  public,  and 
having  more  than  20,000  volumes,  that  of  the  Law,  Moreno 
350,  and  that  on  Education,  well  stocked  on  this  subject,  for 
the  use  of  teachers  and  others  who  may  apply.  The  library 


PATIO     IN     NEW     HAI-L     OF     JUSTICE 


COLON    THEATRE 


BUENOS  AIEES  247 

of  La  Prensa  is  open  to  the  public  from  2  to  7  and  from  9  to 
12  p.  m. 

In  this  connection  reference  to  the  newspapers  seems  appro- 
priate. The  leading  journals  publish  news  from  every  cor- 
ner of  the  globe,  all  that  is  worthy  of  interest :  they  contain 
much  more  foreign  news  and  cable  dispatches  than  any  New 
York  paper.  Instead  of  the  enormous  quantity  of  trivial  gos- 
sip about  public  and  private  individuals  which  forms  so  large 
a  part  of  the  reading  matter  of  most  of  our  papers,  they  have 
in  addition  to  real  news  of  State,  and  of  mercantile  and 
commercial  matters  at  home  and  abroad,  articles  scientific 
and  literary,  information  as  to  art,  music,  and  every  field  of 
activity.  In  their  high  ideals  of  duty  in  molding  public 
opinion  and  in  correcting  abuses,  they  are  regarded  by  foreign 
critics  as  among  the  most  important  and  advanced  of  the 
world.  To  this,  the  first  rank  of  their  press,  belong  the 
Prensa  and  the  Nation  among  morning  papers,  the  Diario, 
of  afternoon.  These,  with  El  Pais,  Tiempo,  La  Razon,  and 
La  Patria  degli  Italiani  show  the  highest  degree  of  excellence 
as  to  their  illustrations,  typography,  material,  and  housing. 
La  Nacion,  originating  in  1857  under  the  name  Los  Debates, 
was  edited  by  Gen.  Mitre  until  1862,  and  in  1870,  took  its 
present  name.  It  is  noted  for  the  elegance  and  literary  char- 
acter, as  well  as  for  the  intrinsic  value  of  its  writings.  There 
are  more  than  400  publications  in  the  Republic  including  100 
in  foreign  languages,  many  naturally  poor  and  ephemeral 
in  character.  There  are  some  excellent  illustrated  papers; 
Caras  y  Caretas,  the  P.  B.  T.  and  La  Illustration  Sud-Amer- 
icana. 

On  the  Plaza  Lavalle  are  several  important  buildings  of 
great  interest  to  every  tourist.  On  the  west  side  is  the  new 
Palace  of  Justice  on  a  site  formerly  occupied  by  the  Artillery 
Armory,  a  work  of  much  splendor  both  without  and  within ; 
the  edifice,  of  the  neo-G-reek  style,  constructed  by  Joseph  E. 
Bernaseoni  after  a  design  by  the  French  architect,  Norbert 
Meillar,  at  a  cost  of  about  a  million  and  a  half  dollars.  The 
main  building,  125  feet  in  height,  has  seven  stories,  the  four 
central  bodies  surmounted  by  a  cupola.  Steps  lead  from  the 
Plaza  to  a  broad  portico  and  vestibule,  from  which  fine  stair- 


248  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

ways  conduct  to  the  third  floor,  the  seat  of  the  Supreme  Court 
Other  great  staircases  lead  up  from  north  and  south;  from 
Lavalle  street  is  a  covered  passage  way  admitting  vehicles 
with  criminals.    On  the  main  floor  are  the  chambers  for 
Federal  Courts  and  their  Secretaries,  the  Criminal  and  Cor- 
rectional Tribunals.    A  Jury  Hall  is  an  amphitheater  seating 
700.    The  Supreme  Court  Boom  on  the  third  floor,  70  by  38 
feet  and  60  feet  high,  is  separated  from  the  front  by  a  fine 
gallery  looking  upon  the  plaza.    Every  floor  is  arranged  for 
eight  tribunals  or  courts,  each  with  audience  chamber,  pri- 
vate rooms  for  judge  and  secretaries,  and  rooms  for  employees. 
There  are  several  patios  adorned  with  beautiful  columns,  one 
ia  style  somewhat  after  the  Caryatides  of  the  Erechtheion 
in  Athens.    The  archives  will  be  kept  on  the  ground  floor: 
the  three  upper  stories  are  reserved  for  use  when  needed.    Six 
passenger  elevators  and  two  freight  supply  required  service. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  plaza  is  a  building  which  to 
many  will  be  still  more  attractive,  the  Colon  Theater,  with- 
out its  equal  in  America,  and  some  say  in  the  world.    No 
shops  disfigure  the  ground  floor,  nor  do  any  of  the  fagades 
resemble  the  walls  of  a  prison.    The  exterior  is  of  the  Ionic 
order  of  architecture  below,  the  Corinthian  above,  and  at  the 
top  a  rather  composite  construction.    The  height  to  the  cor- 
nice is  about  80  feet.    From  the  main  entrance  on  the  plaza 
a  vestibule  leads  to  a  hall  45  by  90  feet  and  80  feet  high,  from 
which  a  staircase  45  feet  wide  and  adorned  with  16  large 
statues  conducts  to  the  level  of  the  orchestra  chairs  of  the 
auditorium,  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world,  accommodating 
3570  persons.    The  entire  length  of  one  balcony  is  nearly 
250  feet,  10  more  than  that  of  St.  Charles  in  Naples.    The 
floor  space  90  by  70,  has  900  chairs-  on  7  levels.    The  stage,  60 
feet  broad  and  65  feet  high,  from  foundations  to  arch  is  150 
feet.    The  building  is  fire-proof,  with  fine  acoustic  properties, 
and  the  best  of  light,  heat,  and  ventilation.    The  cost  was 
nearly  $2,000,000.    The  theater  is  a  government  building 
where  operas  are  performed  by  the  leading  European  artists, 
Mascagni  and  others  conducting.    It  has  been  said  that  the 
Argentines  discover  the  great  singers ;  later  they  come  to  New 
York    The  seats  are  more  expensive  than  at  the  Metropolitan 
and  the  audience  is  as  brilliant  as  any  in  the  world. 


TOMB,   RECOLETA  CEMETERY 


RECOLETA    PARK 


BUENOS  AIRES  249 

Tlie  edifice  north  of  the  theater  deserves  more  than  a  pass- 
ing glance,  a  beautiful  school  building  called  the  President 
Roca,  fitted  with  all  the  latest  improvements  and  containing  a 
charming  patio  at  which  every  one  should  take  a  peep,  since 
this  may  be  done  without  disturbing  the  inmates.  An  equally 
beautiful  school  building  is  the  Sarmiento  on  Callao.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Plaza  Lavalle  is  another  excellent  and 
well  equipped  school 

Many  theaters  there  are  besides  the  Colon;  the  Opera,  at 
Corrientes  860,  now  used  for  light  opera,  the  San  Martin  on 
Esmeralda  257,  the  National  Theater  designed  for  the  repre- 
sentation of  works  written  in  the  country,  and  many  more  of 
all  classes  including  vaudeville  and  cinematograph,  as  may 
be  seen  by  consulting  the  daily  papers.  The  performances 
begin  usually  at  8.30,  sometimes  at  9.  For  the  opera,  full 
dress  is  de  rigueur,  the  ladies  en  decollete;  and  the  spectacle 
on  a  fete  day,  as  the  25th  of  May  or  9th  of  July,  should  not 
be  missed  by  the  tourist. 

At  the  CoUsee  Argentin,  Chareas  1109,  is  a  permanent 
circus  of  modern  arrangement  accommodating  1700. 

In  the  city  are  many  Conservatories  of  Music  and  musical 
societies.  Concerts  are  given  in  various  places,  besides  those 
in  the  Parks  by  the  excellent  military  bands. 

Six  blocks  west  of  Plaza  Lavalle  and  two  north,  facing 
Paraguay  street,  is  a  fine  building  occupying  a  whole  block, 
the  purpose  of  which  would  hardly  be  suspected.  Instead  of 
the  public  institution  which  it  might  be  supposed  to  contain, 
it  has  indeed  public  works,  tanks  containing  the  city's  water 
supply.  It  is  called  the  Aguas  Corrientes  and  may  be  in- 
spected within,  on  a  permit  to  be  procured  from  the  President 
of  the  Commission,  Rivadavia  1255.  A  fine  view  of  the  city 
will  be  enjoyed  from  the  roof. 

The  building  opposite  is  the  Normal  School  for  Girls. 

A  little  farther  west  is  the  building  of  the  Med/ical  School, 
facing  Cordoba,  and  on  the  corner  of  Los  Andes.  The  fine 
edifice  contains  offices,  lecture  halls,  a  large  amphitheater, 
laboratories,  dissecting  rooms,  library,  etc.  The  handsomely 
decorated  salon  where  degrees  are  conferred  has  a  ceiling  of 
artistic  merit  representing  th^triumph  of  Science.  Paintings 
on  the  walls  illustrate  some  of  these,  such  as  Jenner  in- 


250  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

nocaUting  with  the  first  vaccine,  Pasteur  examining"  cultures 
of  microbes,  and  many  others.  In  the  amphitheater  is  a 
large  painting  by  Charles  Leroy,  representing  Meditation 
upon  Death,  presented  by  Dr.  Toribio  Ayerza.  The  school  has 
annexes  for  Pharmacy  and  Dentistry  and  in  a  separate  build- 
ing a  School  of  Obstetrics  for  midwives.  Opposite  the  Medi- 
cal School,  is  the  Ma^ertvtiif  Hospital,  and  connected  with  the 
former  the  Morgue,  equipped  in  the  finest  manner  with  re- 
frigerators and  every  facility  desirable  for  such  an  establish- 
ment The  public  entrance  is  on  Junin.  The  standard  of 
the  Medical  School  is  so  high  that  only  about  60  per  cent  of 
its  students  are  graduated.  Other  departments  of  the  Univer- 
sity are  located  in  different  parts  of  the  city.  A  beautiful 
structure  of  the  Gothic  style  of  architecture  has  been  designed 
for  the  Law  SchooL  The  Agricultural  School  in  the  sub- 
urbs has  commodious  buildings  and  large  grounds. 

The  Eecoleta  Cemetery,  no  one  should  fail  to  visit.  "Well 
•within  the  city,  it  is  easy  of  access  by  car  or  carriage,  in  the 
direction  of  Palermo  Park  but  not  so  far, — a  city  of  the  dead 
among  the  living,  a  crowded  city  with  no  room,  for  more, 
save  in  the  lot§  and  tombs  already  well  filled.  The  Munic- 
ipal Cemetery  now  in  general  use,  supplied  with  a  crematory, 
is  the  Chacarita,  five  miles  from  the  Plaza.  But  in  the  Re- 
coleta  are  monuments  to  many  Argentine  heroes,  and  splendid 
works  of  art  which  would  adorn  any  gallery.  To  mention 
even  the  most  notable  of  these  would  require  too  much  space. 
A  few  only  may  be  named.  In  a  chapel  near  the  entrance  is 
a  great  marble  Crucifix  by  Monteverde,  the  Christ  represented 
in  realistic  agony.  A  beautiful  statue  of  Grief  by  Tantar- 
dini  stands  upon  the  tomb  of  Quiroga.  The  finest  of  the 
tombs  is  said  to  be  that  of  Dr.  Francois  J.  Muniz,  physician, 
soldier,  and  philanthropist,  A  superb  female  figure  of  bronze 
representing  Science,  is  seated  below,  a  bust  of  the  physician 
is  above.  The  tombs  of  Ayerza,  of  Oeampo,  and  others  are 
also  adorned  with  beautiful  statues  of  allegorical  figures.  A 
full  half  day  should  be  allowed  for  a  careful  study  of  the 
works  of  art  and  the  tombs  of  many  famous  Argentines. 

A  visit  to  the  Frigomficos  and  to  the  Docks  and  Harbor 
should  be  on  the  programme  of  every  tourist.  Those  who  care 
for  such  things  may  like  first  to  visit  the  Slaughter  Houses 


MERCADO  DE  FRUTOS   AND   RIACHUELO 


BUILDING  OF  PUBLIC  SCHOOL,  SARMIENTO 


BUENOS  AIRES  251 

on  the  edge  of  the  town,  the  extreme  west,  at  a  place  appro- 
priately called  Nueva  Chicago.  These,  inaugurated  March, 
1900,  occupy  an  immense  rectangle  on  Merlo,  Arco,  and  San 
Fernando  streets,  about  1200  by  3000  feet.  The  abattoirs 
against  the  outer  wall  cover  each  400  square  feet  and  the 
courts  for  the  animals,  15,000  feet;  room  for  30,000  head  of 
cattle.  All  arrangements  are  of  the  best  fashion,  with  suitable 
constructions  for  every  necessity,  including  a  crematory  for 
useless  animals.  To  see  the  animals  slaughtered,  a  visit  should 
be  made  in  the  early  morning.  The  tramways  leading  thither 
may  be  taken  on  calle  San  Juan  or  on  Kivadavia ;  round  trip 
by  the  former,  70  ctvs.;  by  the  latter  10  ctvs.  each.  way.  An 
hour  must  be  allowed  for  the  journey. 

Many  who  will  prefer  to  be  excused  from  visiting  slaughter 
houses  may  yet  enjoy  a  visit  to  the  great  Frigorificos,  where 
no  unpleasant  sights  need  be  witnessed,  but  where  some  in- 
sight may  be  gained  into  the  wonderful  industry  which  has 
been  so  great  a  factor  in  the  rapid  increase  of  Argentina's 
wealth.  An  electric  car.will  take  one  to  the  bridge  across  the 
Riaehuelo,  an  important  structure  of  iron  opened  in  August, 
1902,  of  immense  service  to  the  teams  carrying  loads  to  the 
Central  Produce  Market,  the  Mercado  Central  de  Frutos 
(not  fruits),  where  cattle  and  agricultural  products  are  sold 
for  export,  an  immense  traffic,  the  most  important,  it  is  said, 
in  South  America.  As  long  ago  as  1906,  5000  vehicles  daily 
crossed  this  bridge.  At  the  left  on  the  other  side  is  the  Fri- 
gorifico  La  Blanca,  opened  Sept.  1903,  an  establishment  of 
imposing  appearance  and  completeness  with  its  courts,  offices, 
and  warehouses.  Passing  some  of  these,  one  comes  to  a  pool 
in  which  animals  by  the  hundred  are  bathed  before  going 
to  the  slaughter  house,  whither  we  are  not  obliged  to  follow. 
Here  is  a  track  on  which  run  automatic  cars  transporting  the 
slain  animals  to  the  air  chambers.  Three  boilers  of  200 
horse  power,  a  depot  of  ammonia,  a  fire  engine  and  two 
electric  light  installations  are  beyond  the  three  refrigerating 
chambers,  which  will  accommodate  at  the  same  time  7000 
beef  and  70,000  sheep.  The  pipes  of  ammonia  are  60  miles 
long.  To  see  rows  on  rows  of  hanging  cattle  covered  with  a 
thin  coating  of  snow  as  it  appears,  really  frost,  which  on 
pipes  and  walls  is  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  is  quite  im- 


252  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

pressive.    The  fortunate  visitor  may  be  regaled  by  the  Eng- 
lish Superintendent  with  a  hospitable  cup  of  tea. 

Beyond  this  establishment  is  the  Mercado  de  Frutos,  the 
great  wool  market  of  the  world,  where  other  products  also 
are  sold,  grain,  cattle,  fruit,  etc.  The  iron  building  which 
covers  over  30  acres  cost  $4,155,000  gold.  It  contains  72 
cranes  and  elevators,  44  hydraulic  presses,  motors,  engines, 
etc.  With  a  capacity  of  over  50,000,000  Ibs.  of  wool  the 
greatest  quantity  yet  stored  was  in  Feb.  1901,  when  there 
were  35  million  Ibs.  within  and  5  million  in  wagons  outside. 
To  see  the  wools  being  sorted,  and  other  operations,  and  at 
other  times  of  the  year  the  different  products  of  the  season 
is  of  very  great  interest. 

Above  the  bridge,  the  Frigoiifico  La  Negra,  founded  in  1883 
by  Sansinena,  employs  nearly  700  men  and  boys,  has  four 
Stem  refrigerating  machines,  and  three  from  Switzerland,  and 
with  a  capital  of  $3,000,000  pays  annual  dividends  of  from 
18  to  50  per  cent.  Another  establishment  called  Frigorifico 
Argentina,  a  joint  stock  company,  is  nearly  as  large  as  the 
Mercado  dos  Frutos.  A  single  man  kills  6000  sheep  daily, 
so  skillful  is  he  and  so  perfect  are  the  arrangements.  In 
connection  with  the  beef  is  a  department  for  making  Liebig's 
Extract.  Many  interesting  operations  carried  on  here  would 
take  too  long  to  describe. 

A  great  establishment  in  this  quarter  is  that  of  Domingo 
Noceti  &  Co.  with  immense  workshops,  foundry,  iron-work, 
etc.,  connected  with  the  railway. 

On  the  way  thither  or  on  the  return,  several  important 
institutions  may  be  passed  or  visited. 

The  Hospital  Mercedes  for  the  Insane,  established  in  1863, 
is  well  located  on  the  calle  Brandsen,  on  high  land  with  fine 
large  buildings  and  grounds,  the  latter  including  well  paved, 
shaded  streets,  parks,  and  gardens.  It  has  separate  apart- 
ments for  persons  needing  continual  surveillance,  and  for 
all  grades  and  conditions,  each  section  with  refectory,  salon, 
dormitory,  etc. ;  also  workshops  for  the  manufacture  of  many 
articles,  and  opportunities  for  gardening,  painting,  music,  etc., 
for  those  who  are  able  to  work.  At  one  time  there  were  more 
than  1000  poor  patients  and  132  paying.  Baths,  medicinal 
and  plain,  a  gymnasium,  library,  music,  and  billiard  rooms 


PASEO  COLON,  GRAIN  ELEVATORS  IX  THE  DISTANCE 


DARSENA  NORD  AND  MARINE  SHOPS 


BUENOS  AIRES  253 

are  provided.  Opposite  is  a  Building  for  Idiots,  established 
1855  by  philanthropists,  with  accommodations  for  500. 

The  Arsenal  of  War,  also  in  this  quarter  of  the  city,  may  be 
reached  by  cars  coming  down  Callao  and  Entre  Rios,  though 
located  on  Pozos  between  Garay  and  Brazil  Everything 
needful  for  the  making  or  repairing  of  war  material,  for  the 
furnishing  of  barracks  and  most  of  the  military  establish- 
ments, is  here  provided.  The  workshops  will  interest  many, 
and  the  depot  of  war  supplies.  The  buildings,  lighted  by 
electricity,  are  surrounded  by  large  and  well  planted  gardens. 
There  is  a  gallery  for  artillery  practice.  If  passing  along 
the  Ave.  Callao,  at  540  tiie  school  building  Sarmiento  should 
be  noticed,  admirable  both  without  and  within. 

The  splendid  Docks  of  Buenos  Aires  deserve  the  attention 
of  every  visitor.  Although  now  utterly  inadequate  for  the 
requirements  of  the  city's  commerce  they  are  models  as  far 
as  they  go.  When  constructed  it  was  supposed  that  they 
would  provide  ample  accommodations  for  many  years,  as  no 
one  looked  forward  to  the  astonishingly  rapid  growth  of  both 
city  and  commerce.  The  port  has  two  sections,  the  original 
and  natural  harbor  at  the  Riaehuelo  south  of  the  city,  where 
the  stream  so  called,  entering  the  River,  allows  ships  drawing 
18  feet  only  to  go  some  distance  up.  The  docks  on  both  sides 
of  this  stream  form  a  very  important  auxiliary  to  the  more 
modern  section  on  the  River,  the  tonnage  some  years  ago 
reaching  1,200,000  annually. 

The  chief  port  constructed  on  the  bank  of  the  great  River 
is  composed  of  two  large  basins  called  the  north  and  south 
darsenas,  and  between  these,  four  docks.  The  Darsena  Sud 
is  more  than  half  a  mile  long  and  500  feet  wide,  the  first  and 
second  docks  are  about  1800  by  500  feet,  the  other  two  a  little 
smaller.  The  Darsena  Nord  lias  an  area  of  a  million  square 
feet.  In  the  basins  the  depth  of  water  is  21  feet,  in  the 
docks  23.9  at  the  lowest.  The  entire  water  surface  of  this 
port  is  over  150  acres.  The  Riaehuelo  has  but  two  sheds  for 
merchandise;  this,  the  Capital  port,  has  24  depots,  8  of  iron 
and  16  of  masonry.  Their  dock  frontage  is  8000  feet,  their 
capacity  over  2  million  cubic  feet.  There  is  hydraulic  motive 
power,  four  motors,  36  elevators,  and  all  other  necessities, 
including  nearly  50  miles  of  railway. 


254  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUK 

Two  large  grain  elevators  at  Docks  2  and  3  belong  to 
private  companies,  one  with  a  capacity  for  85,000  tons  of 
grain.  Next  to  these  is  a  mill  for  making  flour,  the  Rio  de 
la  Plata,  which  cost  $15,000,000.  The  port  is  lighted  by 
electricity,  180  lamps  of  280  watts,  and  261  of  400  watts 
placed  100  feet  apart,  so  that  ships  can  come  in  by  night  as 
well  as  by  day.  It  is  said  to  be  the  best  lighted  harbor  in 
the  world,  except  that  of  London.  New  York  is  far  behind. 
The  cost  of  the  harbor  works  was  approximately  $35,000,000. 
Plans  are  already  made  for  vastly  greater  facilities  extending 
for  miles  np  the  river. 

The  neatness  and  cleanliness  of  the  docks  and  their  ap- 
proaches will  probably  excite  the  greatest  astonishment,  and 
the  manner  in  which  they  are  shut  off  from  the  rest  of  the 
city  by  the  beautiful  Parqne  de  Julio  and  the  Paseo  Colon. 
Between  these  and  the  river  is  an  Immensely  broad,  well 
paved  street  with  appropriate  structures  and  ample  room  for 
all  traffic.  A  call  to  see  the  Immigrants'  Hotel,  where  fine 
accommodations  for  the  use  of  the  immigrants  are  provided 
in  several  large  buildings  close  to  the  Darsena  Nord,  is  well 
worth  while. 

An  excursion  by  no  means  to  be  omitted  is  that  to  El 
Tigre,  the  fashionable  summer  and  boating  resort,  where 
regattas  at  times  occur  and  where  all  kinds  of  water  craft 
are  in  evidence.  It  is  a  short  rail  or  boat  ride,  an  hour  or  so, 
to  the  delightful  spot  where  the  river  Tigre  flows  into  La 
Plata.  The  former  is  overspread  with  a  perfect  network  of 
islands  covered  with  trees,  gardens,  meadows,  and  charming 
vine-clad  cottages.  On  the  main  shore  are  pretty  hotels  and 
restaurants  with  music  and  other  attractions,  people  in  out- 
ing flannels  and  in  evening  dress,  a  delightful  combination  of 
wealth,  fashion,  and  natural  beauty,  which  every  one  may 
enjoy. 

An  excursion  should  be  made  from  Buenos  Aires  to  La 
Plata;  according  to  one's  taste  and  pocketbook,  to  Mar  del 
Plata.  A  visit  to  an  estanda  will  be  greatly  enjoyed  if  per- 
mission can  be  obtained  from  the  proprietor;  but  the  large 
ones  near  the  city  are  few  in  number  and  obviously  it  would 
be  inconvenient  for  them  to  entertain  all  passing  travelers. 
With  friends  at  court,  the  few  may  be  able  to  arrange  a  visit. 


OX  THE  RIVER  TIGRE 


LEGISLATIVE  BUILDING,  LA  PLATA 


LA  PLATA  255 

At  estancias  far  out  on  the  campo  it  is  different,  and  the  rare 
stranger  is  pretty  sure  to  receive  a  welcome. 

La  Plata.  The  excursion  requires  a  full  long  day.  The 
journey  is  made  by  rail  from  the  fine  large  station  on  the 
Plaza  Constitucion,  by  the  Southern  Railway,  the  F.  C.  S. 
The  first  important  station  is  Quilmes,  9  km.,  a  historic  spot, 
taking  its  name  from  an  Indian  tribe  which  was  conquered 
and  deported  in  1670.  Here  landed,  June  25,  1806,  the 
English  General  Beresford  with  2000  soldiers  for  the  capture 
of  Buenos  Aires,  meeting  with  temporary  success;  and  off 
shore  Feb.  24,  1827,  Admiral  Brown  defeated  the  Brazilian 
squadron  during  a  war  for  the  possession  of  Uruguay.  A 
pretty  Gothic  church  may  be  seen  from  the  station.  On 
the  edge  of  the  town  is  a  vineyard,  a  brewery  also.  So  far 
come  electric  cars,  starting  from  a  bridge  over  the  Eiachuelo 
in  the  part  of  the  city  called  Barracas.  JYom  the  station 
Pereyra,  39  kilometers,  a  branch  road  goes  to  the  port  of 
Ensenada,  and  in  this  vicinity  are  several  large  estancias,  the 
San  Juan,  the  Pereyra,  and  the  Estancia  Grande.  Fifty- 
seven  kilometers  southeast  of  Buenos  Aires  and  five  from 
Ensenada  is  La  Plata,  a  city  made  to  order,  like  "Washington, 
to  be  the  capital,  not  of  the  Republic,  but  of  the  Province, 
we  should  say  State,  of  Buenos  Aires,  after  the  city,  B.  A., 
had  been  made  the  Federal  Capital.  The  decree  was  promul- 
gated Nov.  19,  1882.  The  city  is  well  planned  with  rec- 
tangular blocks,  but  with  the  addition  of  many  diagonal 
boulevards,  of  parks  and  plazas.  On  account  of  the  wonder- 
ful growth  of  Buenos  Aires,  so  near,  the  development  of  La 
Plata  has  not  equaled  expectations,  as  for  many  years  was 
the  case  with  our  own  capital,  Washington ;  but  in  time,  like 
that,  it  will  become  a  splendid  city.  The  chief  points  worthy 
of  observation  are  the  various  Government  Buildings,  the 
Casa  de  Gobierno,  residence  and  offices  of  the  Governor, 
the  Legislative  Hall,  the  City  Building  (MunicipaJidad),  the 
Direction  de  Escuelas,  the  Department  of  Engineers,  the 
great  University  Buildings,  the  Astronomical  Observatory 
founded  by  the  Government  in  1883,  and  most  famous  of 
all,  the  Museum.  A  carriage  may  be  hired  at  the  station  at 
one  peso  an  hour,  or  a  tramcar  will  make  a  considerable  cir- 
cuit, fare  10  centavos.  A  large  Asylum  for  Mendicants,  satis- 


256  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

fying  an  important  social  necessity,  has  been  erected  by  the 
philanthropist,  Placide  Martin. 

The  La  Plata  Museum  (open  fete  days  including  Sundays 
from  1  to  4),  having  a  world  wide  reputation  for  its  large 
collection,  anthropological  and  ethnological,  was  founded  Sept. 
17,  1884,  by  Francisco  P.  Moreno.  While  the  departments 
mentioned  are  the  most  famous,  the  museum  also  contains 
sections  devoted  to  zoology,  geology  and  mineralogy,  and  to 
archaeology.  The  substantial  architecture  of  the  building  and 
the  arrangement  of  the  interior  and  of  the  specimens  is  equal 
to  that  of  European  collections.  Unscientific  persons  will  be 
interested  in  many  of  the  objects  presented,  the  stuffed  ani- 
mals, the  skeletons  of  prehistoric  creatures,  the  mummies,  the 
pottery,  and  other  objects. 

Mar  del  Plata,  called  the  Newport  of  South  America,  is  an 
extremely  expensive  and  fashionable  seaside  resort  about  250 
miles  from  Buenos  Aires.  The  night  trains  with  Pullman 
cars  are  well  patronized.  In  the  summer  season  tickets  must 
be  procured  in  advance  and  rooms  engaged  at  the  hotels. 
The  Hotel  Bristoly  Ajnerican  plan,  12  pesos  up,  is  the  most 
luxurious,  equipped  with  every  possible  convenience.  The 
Grand,  Victoria,  Hoyal  and  many  others  are  very  comfortable, 

The  city  has  more  than  10,000  inhabitants,  with  boulevards, 
plazas,  splendid  chalets  and  "cottages"  of  the  Newport 
fashion.  There  are  casinos,  theaters,  golf  course,  bathing 
establishments,  and  everything  requisite  for  a  resort  of  wealth 
and  fashion  on  the  grandest  scale. 


CHAPTER  XXV 
THE  IGRJASSU  FALLS  AKD  PARAGUAY 

IMPORTANT  ARGE^TI^E  CITIES 

AMONG  the  nations  of  the  ancient  or  the  modern  world,  not 
one  do  we  know  with  a  history  in  some  respects  so  extraor- 
dinary as  that  of  Paraguay.  Yet  of  the  thousands  annually 
who  will  soon  be  making  the  South  American  Tour,  scarcely 
one  would  be  tempted  by  historic  interest  to  journey  1000 
miles  from  the  beaten  track.  But  the  greatest  waterfall  in  the 
world!  Ah,  that  is  another  matter !  A  waterfall  bigger  than 
Niagara,  as  high  and  with  more  water?  Truly,  that  is  the 
tale!  So  while  the  majority,  who  wish  to  make  the  trip  in 
three  months  or  so,  or  who  have  come  in  the  wrong  season,  may 
go  directly  on  from  Buenos  Aires  to  Montevideo,  some  will 
decide  to  visit  the  Iguassu  Falls,  and  then,  being  near,  will 
cross  over  to  Asuncion,  the  capital  of  Paraguay. 

To  a  few  it  would  be  pleasant  to  make  the  entire  journey 
upward  in  the  fine  steamers  of  Mihanovich.  Although  the 
banks  of  the  wide  Parana  are  too  distant  and  too  flat  to  afford 
much  scenic  beauty,  there  is  some  interest  in  calling  at  various 
cities  along  the  way,  and  in  noting  the  gradual  change  from 
a  temperate  to  a  tropical  clime,  with  the  variation  in  verdure 
and  animal  life,  especially  of  birds ;  higher  up  between  nar- 
rowing shores  or  islands  are  fascinating  stretches  of  forest, 
interspersed  with  pretty  pastoral  scenes.  All  the  way  to 
Asuncion,  a  week's  journey,  one  may  sail  in  the  same  com- 
modious steamer;  but  if  first  visiting  the  Falls,  a  change  will 
be  made  at  Corrientes ;  for  the  Alto  Parana  on  which  Posadas 
is  situated  is  more,  shallow  than  the  Paraguay  on  whose  bank 
is  Asuncion. 

The  shorter  way,  appealing  to  the  greater  number,  is  to  go 
by  rail  to  Posadas,  thence  by  steamer  to  the  Falls  and  return, 
continuing  by  rail  from  Posadas  to  Asuncion.  The  river 

257 


258  THE  SOUTH  AMEBICAN  TOUR 

route,  obviously  shorter  Doming  down,  may  be  taken  for  the 
return  to  Buenos  Aires,  or  the  rail  route  through  Posadas. 

The  cross-country  ride  through  the  provinces  of  Entre 
Bios  and  Corrientes  on  the  way  to  Posadas  will  give  a  view 
of  the  fertile  pampas  and  their  rich  agricultural  products, 
of  enormous  herds  of  cattle,  and  of  the  wooded  banks  of  the 
Uruguay ;  through  Misiones,  of  a  pretty  rolling  country.  The 
towns  are  generally  small  At  last  accounts  a  day  and  a 
half  was  required  for  the  journey. 

Posadas,  capital  of  the  territory  Misiones,  is  a  thriving 
town  of  10,000  inhabitants,  destined  to  more  rapid  growth, 
now  that  it  has  through  railway  connection  with  Buenos 
Aires,  and,  after  crossing  the  Parana,  with  Asuncion;  the 
whole  section  will  share  in  the  prosperity  promoted  by  better 
transportation  facilities.  The  three  hotels  of  Posadas,  one  of 
which,  terms,  $2.00  a  day,  is  called  fairly  comfortable,  will 
be  sure  to  improve.  There  is  a  fine  Government  Building  on 
the  principal  plaza  and  other  public  edifices,  a  beautiful  prom- 
enade with  native  and  exotic  trees.  The  river  is  here  about 
a  mile  and  a  quarter  in  width. 

Iguass£  Palls.  To  visit  the  Iguassu  Falls  one  sails  from 
Posadas  in  a  boat  of  moderate  size  100  miles  up  the  Parana 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Iguassu,  and  half  a  mile  up  that  stream 
to  Port  Aguirre,  where  a  building,  called  a  hut,  serves  as 
hotel,  store,  and  post  office.  As  the  Alto  Parana  separates 
Argentina  from  Paraguay,  the  Iguassu  separates  it  from 
Brazil,  flowing  from  the  east,  from  its  source  in  the  moun- 
tains near  the  Atlantic.  Twelve  miles  more  one  proceeds  on 
mule  or  horseback,  a  four  hours*  ride.  By  1915,  so  rapidly 
are  improvements  made,  doubtless  there  will  be  an  automo- 
bile traveling  a  good  road ;  and  a  primitive  establishment  on 
the  edge  of  a  rocky  gorge  will  have  been  transformed  for  the 
globe  trotters  into  a  large  hotel  with  luxurious  accommo- 
dations. Perhaps,  however,  the  tourist  who  arrives  before 
the  pristine  beauty  of  the  wild  surroundings  are  converted 
into  artificial  adornment  may  enjoy  equally  well  the  mag- 
nificence of  the  spectacle.  Prom  the  inn  near  the  Falls,  a 
public  spirited  and  wealthy  lady  of  Argentina  has  had  a 
roadway  constructed,  65  feet  wide,  more  than  half  a  mile 
along  the  bank  of  the  stream  to  the  top  of  the  Argentine  Fall. 


IGUASSU  PALLS  259 

For  the  river,  here  a  mile  and  a  half  in  width,  double  that 
of  Niagara,  also  has  two  falls,  the  Brazilian  farther  up 
nearer  the  other  shore.  In  the  midst  of  this  primeval  trop- 
ical forest,  the  roar  of  the  great  cataract  is  startling;  on  the 
other  hand  it  may  seem  still  more  startling  to  approach 
through  an  absolutely  silent  forest  quite  to  the  edge  of  this 
tremendous  cataract,  the  wind  sometimes  unaccountably  car- 
rying the  noise  in  an  opposite  direction.  Above  the  Falls  the 
river  is  very  wide ;  taMng  a  sharp  turn  it  makes  three  leaps, 
the  last  about  200  feet,  where  unequal  erosion  has  given  some- 
thing of  a  horseshoe  shape.  Zigzag  paths  cut  in  the  cliff  lead 
down  to  several  beautiful  view-points.  "When  the  stream  is 
low,  it  may  be  crossed  above  the  Falls  by  canoe  and  wading, 
to  a  point  called  the  Garganta  del  Diablo,  the  Throat  of  the 
Devil,  close  to  the  Brazilian  Falls;  the  traveler  with  steady 
nerves  leaning  over  the  precipice,  in  the  midst  of  howling 
waters  and  showers  of  spray,  may  there  have  a  glorious  view 
of  the  foaming  abyss  beneath.  In  low  water  the  Brazilian 
and  Argentine  Falls  each  measure  a  quarter  of  a  mile  along 
the  edge.  Separated  by  masses  of  rock  in  some  places  cov- 
ered with  forest,  they  are  then  quite  distinct;  but  when  the 
river  is  high  they  are  practically  one,  the  whole  measuring 
nearly  two  miles  across,  indeed  a  worthy  rival  of  Niagara, 
as  figures  show,  in  the  midst  of  wild  and  delightful  scen- 
ery. 

Comparing  this  with  the  other  two  great  cataracts  of  the 
world,  Victoria  and  Niagara,  the  African  fall  leads  in  height 
with  a  leap  from  210  to  360  feet,  that  of  the  Iguassu  is 
196-210  feet,  and  Niagara  but  150-164  The  width  of  the 
Victoria  is  slightly  more  than  Niagara's;  the  Iguassu  with 
its  13,123  feet  has  more  than  double  the  breadth.  In  the 
volume  of  water  also  the  Iguassu  is  greater  with  28  minion 
cubic  feet  a  minute  to  18  million  for  each  of  the  others.  Our 
great  Niagara  thus  seems  outdone  by  both,  while  in  the  mag- 
ical beauty  of  the  surroundings  there  is  no  comparison.  The 
Argentine  Government  is  already  awake  to  the  necessity  of 
preserving  from  spoliation  by  the  greedy  and  destructive 
hands  of  men  this  one  of  the  world's  marvels  for  the  admira- 
tion and  enjoyment  of  posterity,  and  is  planning  for  the  de- 
velopment here  of  a  great  National  Park,  foreseeing  that  vis- 


260  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

itors  will  come  from  all  parts  of  Europe  and  America  when 
aware  of  the  attractions  and  tliat  the  comforts  of  travel  will 
be  supplied. 

One  having  the  spirit  of  the  true  explorer  may  continue 
up  the  Alto  Parana  River,  now  dividing  Paraguay  from 
Brazil,  125  miles  farther,  to  the  foaming  cataracts  of  La 
Gmyra,  sometimes  called  the  Seven  Falls  and  said  to  be  the 
mightiest  on  earth.  Above  these  is  a  great  lake  from  which 
the  water  emerging  comes  down  over  precipices  through  a 
narrow  gorge  at  one  point  but  250  feet  wide.  The  waters 
drop  in  one  leap  after  another  310  feet,  descending  into  the 
gorge  below  with  a  force  so  tremendous  as  to  form  a  mael- 
strom by  the  side  of  which  the  Niagara  whirlpool  is  a  quiet 
spot  They  are  calculated  all  together  to  have  a  force  of 
4*3  million  horsepower,  from  a  mass  of  13,000,000  cubic  feet  a 
minute.  Four  hundred  miles  farther  up  stream  are  the 
Uberaponga  Falls. 

Buins.  One  who  delights  in  these  will  find  a  further  at- 
traction in  the  territoiy  of  Misiones,  Not  so  ancient  as  the 
Inca  and  other  remains  in  Peru  and  Bolivia,  they  still  have  an 
interesting  history.  Here  in  Misiones,  and  in  neighboring 
regions  of  Brazil,  occurred  the  earliest  and  most  successful 
attempt  yet  made  for  the  civilization  of  native  tribes,  instead 
of  their  extermination  or  exploitation,  ruthlessly  practiced 
for  centuries  in  most  parts  of  North  and  South  America. 
The  earliest  settlements  of  the  Indians  made  by  the  Jesuits 
were  in  the  countries  of  Paraguay  and  Brazil ;  but  as  a  result 
of  the  attacks  of  the  Portuguese,  who  carried  the  Indians  off 
into  slavery,  the  Jesuits  migrated  to  the  south  shores  of  the 
Al£o  Parana  and  to  the  region  along  the  Uruguay,  taking 
with  them  their  proteges,  who  through  humane  treatment  had 
become  submissive  to  their  influence.  Thirty  villages  were 
ultimately  established,  which  in  1732  were  in  a  prosperous 
condition  with  30,362  families.  Envy  thus  arose  from  which 
and  other  reasons  the  Jesuits  were  expelled  from  the  colonies 
as  also  from  Spain  in  1768,  Bereft  of  their  leaders  the  In- 
dians, happily  domesticated  and  employed,  soon  began  to 
scatter,  and  in  1817  the  villages  were  destroyed.  The  ruins 
of  these  large  establishments,  surrounded  and  overgrown  by 


PABAGUAY  261 

thick  woods,  are  mute,  impressive  witnesses  of  the  criminal 
folly  of  man  and  of  the  destructive  power  of  nature. 

Such  ruins  exist  at  Apostoles,  a  railway  station  35  miles 
from  Posadas,  though  the  best  preserved  are  at  San  Ignacio 
Mini,  11  miles  from  Santa  Ana,  1%  miles  from  the  hank  of 
the  Parana. 

HISTORICAL 

Before  crossing  the  river  into  Paraguay,  a  glance  at  its  strange 
history  is  in  order.  Wonderful  indeed  it  appears,  that  almost  in 
the  center  of  this  great  continent,  eight  hundred  miles  from  the 
sea,  a  city  was  founded  August  15,  1536,  by  three  hundred  Span- 
iards, a  full  century  before  Roger  Williams  made  a  settlement  on 
the  shores  of  Narragansett  Bay  and  seventy-one  years  prior  to  the 
first  English  colony  established  in  North  America.  The  names  of 
Juan  de  Ayolas  and  his  faithful  aid,  Captain  Martinez  de  Irak, 
should  stand  out  more  prominently  in  the  list  of  American  pioneers. 
A  land  route  to  the  newly  discovered  rich  gold  country  of  Peru  was 
what  they  were  seeking.  With  this  end  in  view  Ayolas  established 
a  fortified  settlement  on  the  site  of  Asuncion ;  then  having  made 
peace  with  the  Indians  he  pursued  his  way  north  and  west  in  the 
hope  of  winning  through  to  Peru.  For  this  purpose  he  had  been 
sent  by  Pedro  de  Mendoza,  after  that  leader  had  established  a  small 
colony  at  Buenos  Aires.  Sailing  up  the  river  to  a  natural  port 
which  he  called  La  Candelaria,  he  left  here  the  ships  with  Iifcla  and 
forty  men,  with  orders  to  wait  for  him  four  months.  Then  he 
plunged  into  the  vast  and  gloomy  forest. 

Somewhat  later  the  Governor  of  Buenos  Aires,  Francisco  Euiz 
Galen,  hearing  of  Ayolas*  disappearance,  with  six  ships  and  two 
hundred  men,  sailed  up  to  Asuncion,  arriving  about  when  Irala  for 
the  second  time  returned  from  La  Candelaria  for  necessary  sup- 
plies, Galen,  asserting  authority,  refused  Irala  a  vessel  to  go  back. 
Months  elapsed  before  the  faithful  Irala  with  angry  urging  at  length 
obtained  the  vessel.  It  was  now  the  autumn  of  1538,  long  after 
the  time  set  for  Ayolas*  return.  Still  Irala  waited,  ignorant  that 
Ayolas  and  all  his  followers  were  lying  dead  in  the  forest  not  far 
distant.  For  while  Irala  had  been  urging  his  demand  for  the  ves- 
sel and  supplies,  Ayolas,  who  had  journeyed  among  hostile  Indians, 
swamps,  and  forests  to  the  mountains  of  Chareas,  had  returned  un- 
scathed with  gold  and  silver  to  find  the  banks  of  the  river  de- 
serted and  no  vessel  in  waiting.  The  tragedy  was  complete  when 
the  Indians  fell  upon  the  little  band  and  slaughtered  every  one. 


262  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Again  Irala  descended  to  Asuncion  and  again  returned  to  wait,  till 
at  last  lie  learned  from  the  Indians  of  the  unhappy  fate  of  his 
chief  and  sadly  went  back  to  Asuncion.  There  he  was  enthusiastic- 
ally acclaimed  Governor  and  Captain- General  of  the  colony. 

Although  his  subsequent  career  was  far  from  smooth  he  was 
more  fortunate,  as  well  as  more  faithful  and  able,  than  most  of 
the  conquistador esy  at  last,  while  still  in  office,  dying  peacefully,  in 
1557,  at  the  age  of  seventy.  Years  of  jealousy  and  strife  followed. 
Meanwhile  the  settlement  at  Buenos  Aires  had  been  abandoned. 
Though  re-established  in  1580,  Asuncion  remained  the  chief  Span- 
ish city  on  the  eastern  slope  of  South  America  until  near  the  close 
of  the  eighteenth,  century.  When,  however,  in  1776  a  Viceroy  was 
appointed  for  the  region  of  La  Plata,  he  had  his  seat  in  Buenos 
Aires.  Sometime  after  the  revolution  there  of  May  25,  1810,  a 
small  army  was  sent  from  Buenos  Aires  to  Paraguay  with  the  ex- 
peetation  that  they  too  would  revolt.  Instead,  the  Argentines  were 
defeated;  but  a  little  later  the  people  of  Paraguay  demanded  the 
assignation  of  Governor  Veiazeo.  It  was  given  and  a  new  gov- 
ernment was  peacefully  organized,  to  be  followed  by  many  changes, 
until  in  1844  Carlos  Antonio  Lopez  was  elected  President.  This 
office  he  held  until  his  death  in  1862  when  he  was  succeeded  by  his 
eon,  Francisco,  both  men  being  really  dictators.  Unfortunately  the 
son,  who  had  visited  Europe,  conceived  the  idea  of  becoming  a 
second  Napoleon,  and  at  once  began  to  strengthen  and  discipline  the 
army  and  to  fortify  the  country.  Uruguay,  as  usual  involved  in 
difficulties,  appealed  to  Lopez  for  assistance  against  Brazil.  Lopez, 
on  his  way  to  invade  that  country  crossed  Argentine  territory  al- 
though permission  had  been  refused.  Uruguay  meanwhile  becom- 
ing reconciled  with  Brazil,  Paraguay  became  involved  in  a  war 
against  these  three  countries.  Presumably,  a  war  between  one  small 
country  and  the  two  greatest  of  South  America  would  be  of  short 
duration.  Not  so!  Six  years  the  war  continued,  inflicting  upon 
the  little  country,  through  slaughter  and  disease,  loss  and  suffering 
unparalleled,  costing  the  allies  also  severe  distress.  No  more  heroic 
struggle  is  recorded  in  history.  Though  with  a  splendid  army  of 
fighters,  the  resources  of  Paraguay  gradually  diminished,  a  victory 
winning  no  lasting1  good.  A  chain  barrier  fixed  across  the  river, 
with  fortifications,  long  kept  the  enemy  out.  Wooden  cannon"  were 
constructed  from  the  hardwood  of  the  forest;  but  at  last  the  forts 
were  passed.  In  December,  1868,  after  a  severe  defeat,  Lopez 
abandoned  Asuncion  to  continue  his  struggle  in  the  interior.  De- 
feated in  August,  1869,  in  a  last  battle,  he  fled  farther  into  the  for- 
est, till  finally,  March,  1870,  his  horse  becoming  mired  in  a  swamp, 
he  was  Mlled  by  a  spear  thrust  after  refusing  to  surrender. 


UP  THE  PAEANA  RIVEB  263 

Freed  at  last  from  his  ruthless  domination  the  country  had 
peace;  but  alas!  of  the  population  of  nearly  a  million  and  a  half 
six  years  earlier,  but  280,000  it  is  said  remained.  An  army  deci- 
mated is  supposed  to  suffer  terrible  loss.  Here  five-sixths  of  the 
entire  population  perished,  the  cattle  and  agricultural  resources  were 
destroyed.  Few  able-bodied  men  had  survived;  boys  even  to  the 
age  of  ten  had  been  impressed  into  the  army;  delicate  women  had 
been  compelled  to  work  in  the  fields  for  the  production  of  grain  to 
sustain  life,  and  had  suffered  many  unspeakable  hardships.  The 
struggle  of  the  Greeks  against  the  Persians  was  not  so  desperate, 
or  prolonged  to  so  bitter  an  end.  This,  moreover,  was  wholly  un- 
necessary, the  Dictator  Lopez  being  the  culpable  aggressor;  none  the 
less,  this  story  of  the  unparalleled  heroism  of  a  people  should  be 
more  familiar  to  the  world  outside. 

A  season  of  recuperation  and  freedom  followed,  but  many  years 
were  needed  for  the  nation  to  retrieve  in  population  and  resources 
the  position  it  held  before  the  war.  Not  yet  indeed  are  the  inhabit- 
ants so  numerous,  nor  have  they  learned  the  advantages  of  peace. 
No  longer  ago  than  November,  1911,  an  insurrection  broke  out, 
which  for  six  months  or  more  caused  devastation  and  bloodshed.  It 
is  to  be  hoped  that  peace  will  now  be  preserved. 

Curiously  enough,  the  people  of  Paraguay  pride  themselves  upon 
being  the  most  homogeneous  and  united  of  all  the  South  American 
Republics,  as  they  are  among  the  best  fighters.  Not  that  they  are 
of  pure  Spanish  descent!  They  are  an  amalgamation  of  the  early 
Spanish  settlers  with  the  Guaranis,  the  most  numerous  and  intelli- 
gent of  the  Indian  tribes  in  the  neighborhood.  An  illustration  of 
the  fallacy  of  certain  theories,  the  result  is  a  strong  and  handsome 
white  race,  preserving  with  Spanish  culture  and  virtues  the  warlike 
nature  of  the  Guaranis  and  unusual  virility  for  a  people  on  the 
edge  of  the  tropics. 

From  Posadas  across  the  river  to  Villa  Encarnacion  the 
through  trains  are  now  carried  on  large  ferry  boats  as 
planned.  The  journey  to  Asuncion  may  therefore  be  made 
by  through,  ears  from  Buenos  Aires,  the  road  having  recently 
been  widened,  and  iron  bridges  erected  over  the  various 
streams.  It  is  a  pretty,  rolling  country,  still  sparsely  set- 
tled, with  forests,  open  grass  lands,  and  occasional  small 
villages  and  farms. 

By  Eiver  to  Asuncion.  Should  one  prefer  to  sail  up  the 
river  to  Asuncion  and  return  by  land,  which  on  some  accounts 
might  be  the  more  pleasurable,  one  would  drive  in  the  early 


264  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

morning  to  the  docks  of  the  D&rsena  Sud,  whence  the  great 
steamers  of  the  Mihanovieh  Lines  ply  to  Montevideo  and  to 
the  north.  Also  there  are  boats  of  the  Lloyd  Braziliero  twice 
a  month.  Excellent  steamers  provide  every  essential  com- 
fort, and  the  person  for  whom  the  sea  is  too  boisterous  may 
find  pleasure  in  this  experience.  Unless  with,  a  considerable 
party  one  should  be  something  of  a  linguist  to  enjoy  fully  the 
excursion^  as  the  crowd  will  be  cosmopolitan,  representing 
perhaps  a  dozen  different  countries. 

"  A  multitude  of  vessels  will  be  passed  ere  the  ship  sails 
freely  on  the  great  brown  stream,  so  like  the  sea  except  in 
color.  It  first  seems  like  a  river,  only  on  the  entrance  to  the 
Parana,  where  the  steamer  winds  in  and  out  among  low 
islands,  fringed  with  rushes  and  willows.  Several  ports  are 
passed  on  the  left  bank,  but  most  of  the  way  now,  as  far  as 
Corrienteg,  the  stream  is  so  wide  that  only  one  bank  is  visible. 
The  water  swirls  along  2y2  knots  an  hour.  There  are  .vistas 
of  green  and  silver,  occasional  sails,  and  gradually  higher 
banks. 

Bosario.  The  first  call  is  made  next  morning  at  this,  the 
second  city  in  Argentina,  with  nearly  200,000  population, 
founded  by  Francisco  Grodoy  in  1725,  but  having  small  pros- 
perity until,  in  1859,  General  Urquiza  made  it  a  port  of  entry. 
Ocean  steamers  drawing  24  feet  come  to  its  docks,  for  as  a 
grain  port  it  leads  Buenos  Aires.  The  city  is  situated  on 
bluffs,  one  says  60,  another,  300  feet  high.  An  expensive  sys- 
tem of  docks  has  been  arranged  to  suit  the  varying  height  of 
the  river.  Sacks  of  grain  are  sent  down  through  chutes  into 
the  holds  of  the  vessels.  The  river  here  is  said  to  be  20  miles 
wide,  though  with  numerous  islands  it  does  not  so  appear. 

Rosario  is  a  great  railway  center,  roads  leading  to  Men- 
doza  and  the  Trans-Andine,  to  Bolivia,  of  course  to  the  Capi- 
tal and  to  other  cities;  it  is  expected  .that  a  road  soon  will  ex- 
tend to  the  Amazon  basin.  Rosario  compares  with  Buenos 
Aires  somewhat  as  Chicago  with  New  York;  it  may  have  a 
similar  if  less  rapid  development.  On  higher  land,  with  wider 
streets  than  Buenos  Aires,  in  other  respects  it  is  naturally  in- 
ferior. There  are  several  hotels,  the  Grand,  Central,  Royal, 
Britannia,  and  Prascati  called  comfortable,  with  prices  more 
moderate,  as  they  should  be;  the  new  Victoria  Restaurant  is 


JUDICIARY  BUILDING,   ROSARIO 


RESIDENCE    ON   AN   ARGENTINE   ESTANCIA 


UP  THE  PABANA  RIVEB  265 

good  enough  for  any  one.  There  are  excellent  pnblic  build- 
ings, especially  a  magnificent  Custom  House,  the  Palace  of 
Justice,  a  busy  Bolsa  (Exchange)  on  calle  Cordoba,  a  hand- 
some street  with  good  shops ;  a  beautiful  park,  boulevards,  and 
fine  dwellings.  Electric  cars  supply  adequate  service.  There 
are  many  English  here,  who  have  a  pleasant  Club ;  also  there 
is  a  Strangers'  Club. 

ParanfiT  Above  Rosario  a  call  on  the  other  side  is  made  at 
Diamante,  then  one  at  Parana,  capital  of  the  Entre  Rios 
Province,  a  pleasant  town  of  30,000,  founded  in  1730  by  a 
colony  from  Santa  Fe.  On  the  Plaza  de  Mayo  is  an  imposing 
Government  Building,  and  a  Cathedral  whose  twin  white 
towers  are  seen  afar.  The  Plaza  Alvear  near  the  river  is  more 
beautiful,  with  graceful  palms  and  flowering  trees,  above 
which  rise  the  towers  of  a  fine  church,  the  San  iEguel.  The 
Paseo  Rivadavia,  a  broad,  shaded  promenade,  conducts  to  the 
Urquiza  Gardens.  Here  broad  walks  and  stone  stairways, 
among  blossoming  shrubs  and  flowers,  and  handsome  trees, 
lead  down  to  the  river  or  to  the  top  of  gentle  slopes,  which 
afford  a  panorama  of  the  winding  river  and  of  a  broad 
expanse  of  rolling  country,  especially  admirable  after  the  flat 
plain.  A  large  new  theater  offers  entertainment.  We  have 
doubtless  all  heard  that  "If  wishes  were  horses,  beggars  might 
ride/'  and  in  Parana  they  really  do.  The  city  has  electric 
cars,  the  workshops  of  the  Entre  Rios  railway,  and  is  a  dis- 
tributing and  shipping  point  of  importance,  also  an  educa- 
tional center.  One  interested  in  this  phase  of  Argen- 
tine life  may  visit  the  School  Alberdi,  seven  miles  distant, 
a  Normal  College  of  Agriculture,  the  only  one  in  the  Republic. 
It  aims  to  furnish  all  the  learning  necessary  for  rural  man- 
agers, the  knowledge  requisite  for  the  administration  of  an 
e&tancia,  both  for  cattle  raising  and  agriculture,  to  give  in- 
formation as  to  suitable  exploitation  of  especial  sites,  and, 
besides  furnishing  technical  knowledge,  to  develop  initiative, 
perseverance,  and  ability  for  direction  and  organization.  The 
estate  covers  1000  acres,  cultivating  wheat,  flax,  corn,  oats, 
alfalfa,  potatoes,  besides  5000  trees  of  choice  varieties. 

Santa  Fe.  Opposite  Parana  is  Golastine,  the  port  of  Santa 
Fe,  the  former  for  ocean  vessels,  smaller  river  steamers  only 
sailing  up  the  tributary,  Quiloaza,  to  the  capital  city,  seven 


266  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

years  older  than  Buenos  Aires.  This  also  was  founded  by  Juan 
de  Garay,  a  short  distance  from  the  larger  river,  as  in  those 
days  of  smaller  vessels  a  quieter  port  was  desirable  than  the  un- 
ruly Parana.  Onee  a  rival  of  Rosario,  it  has  now  with  a  popu- 
lation of  50,000  been  left  far  in  the  rear. 

One  of  the  public  buildings,  the  Casa  de  Senadores,  is  a 
historic  place  where  in  troublous  times  five  National  conven- 
tions have  been  held,  1828-31-53-60-66;  many  provincial 
assemblies  have  met  here  for  constitutional  reforms  of  the 
Province.  From  the  lofty  tower  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the 
city  and  surrounding  country.  Among  other  important 
buildings  are  schools,  a  Public  Asylum,  and  several  churches, 
the  Metropolitan  erected  1741  originally  with  a  single  nave, 
two  being  added  in  1834-  Some  historic  relics  within  are  four 
splendid  marble  basins  for  holy  water,  gift  of  the  Tyrant 
Rosas,  a  chasuble  of  richly  embroidered  satin  made  at 
Misiones  about  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  a  painting  from 
Cuzeo,  of  date  1751,  representing  the  beheading  of  Saint 
Pirmin,  a  Christ  sculptured  in  relief  on  a  block  of  fine  white 
marble  framed  in  Corinthian  bronze,  and  a  portrait  of  Saint 
Peter.  The  Church  of  St.  Domingo,  corner  3rd  of  February 
and  9th  of  July,  commenced  in  1786,  now  entirely  renewed, 
contains  a  silver  tabernacle  with  Byzantine  design,  a  diadem 
of  the  patriarch  Santo  Domingo,  and  other  valuable  relics. 
San  Francisco  Church,  Comercio  and  Ecuador  streets,  begun 
in  1652,  completed  1680,  has  relics  of  the  noted  general,  Stan- 
islas Lopez,  who  is  buried  under  the  cupola,  and  a  remarkable 
Jesus  of  Nazareth.  La  Merced,  on  Comercio  and  Gen.  Lopez 
streets,  built  in  1728,  contains  a  fine  oil  painting  of  the  Vir- 
gin. The  Cathedral  now  in  construction,  in  the  form  of  a 
Latin  cross,  will  be  a  monumental  work.  A  statue  of  San 
Martin,  like  the  one  in  B.  A.,  adorns  the  plaza  of  his  name,  the 
pedestal  representing  a  condor,  the  symbol  of  strength,  and  of 
the  victories  of  the  great  General  contributing  to  the  Inde- 
pendence. A  municipal  theater  which,  cost  $125,000  has  a 
handsomely  decorated  foyer.  The  hotels,  Grand,  Central,  etc., 
are  all  rather  poor. 

Higher  up  the  Parana,  towns  are  more  scattered  but  calls 
are  more  frequent.  Santa  Elena  is  a  town  with  a  large 
saJ&dero,  a  meat-curing  factory.  At  La  Paz  wood  arid  char- 


UP  THE  PARANA  EIVEE  267 

coal  are  an  important  element  of  trade.  The  scenery  becomes 
more  pleasing.  A  severe  thunderstorm  may  afford  temporary 
excitement.  Crude  native  "boats  floating  down  strea'm  are 
met,  bamboo  laden  schooners,  rafts  of  quebracho  timber. 
These,  too  heavy  to  float,  are  supported  by  common  wood 
placed  beneath.  The  ports  Bella  Vista  and  Piraguacito  are 
centers  of  the  quebracho  industry.  This  remarkable  wood, 
the  name  meaning  hatchet-breaker,  one  of  the  hardest  known 
species,  is  largely  used  for  railway  ties  throughout  South. 
America,  and  to  some  extent  for  furniture.  From  the  red 
colored  -variety  tannin  is  extracted,  so  valuable  in  the  tan- 
ning of  hides.  This  was  first  effected  in  France  in  1874.  In 
1889  the  first  factory  for  tannin  manufacture  was  erected  at 
Puerto  Casado,  Paraguay,  the  country  where  it  is  most  largely 
produced. 

Corrientes,  founded  April  3,  1588,  with  25,000  population, 
is  an  important  and  busy  place,  exporting  rich  woods  for 
building  and  cabinet  making,  sugar,  cotton,  and  tobacco, 
horses,  sheep,  and  cattle.  The  city,  three  days  from  Buenos 
Aires,  is  25  miles  from  the  junction  of  the  two  great  rivers, 
the  Alto  Parana  and  the  Paraguay,  and  from  the  frontier. 
To  visit  by  this  route  Posadas  and  the  Iguassu  Falls  one 
would  here  change  to  a  boat  of  lighter  draft,  as  rapids  below 
Posadas  allow  passage  in  the  dry  season  of  steamers  drawing 
no  more  than  three  feet. 

To  Asuncion  one  continues  in  the  same  steamer,  as  the 
Paraguay  River,  though  considerably  narrower,  permits 
steamers  of  12  feet  draft  up  to  that  city.  Floating  islands 
are  frequent,  orchids  and  parrots  are  numerous ;  alligators  in 
profusion  bask  in  the  sun,  disdaining  to  move  at  the  occasional 
crack  of  a  rifle  aimed  in  their  direction.  Islands  of  green 
•with  flowers  of  lavender  float  upon  the  stream.  Blossoms 
of  purple  and  of  white  depend  from  the  creepers  which  em- 
brace the  trees  of  the  forest.  Giant  scarlet  flowers  a  foot  in 
diameter  spring  from  a  green  cactus.  Human  life  is  rare. 

The  first  halt  in  Paraguay,  now  on  the  right  bank,  while 
Argentina  continues  on  the  left,  is  Humaytd  where  the  fa- 
miliar colors  red,  white,  and  blue,  app|pr  instead  of  the  Ar- 
gentine blue  and  white  only.  This  being  a  garrison  town, 
low  barracks  are  visible  and  soldiers  in  khaki.  A  conspicuous 


268  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

object  is  a  great  red  brick  church,  battered  and  rent  from 
top  to  bottom,  a  mute  and  mournful  witness  of  that  strange 
six  years'  war.  Attacked  by  the  allies,  the  defensive  army 
under  Col.  Martinez  made  long  and  suitable  resistance,  at 
length  retreating  to  the  church  which  was  bombarded  from 
the  boats.  Surrender  was  at  last  compelled.  Lopez  at  this 
was  so  enraged  that,  as  Martinez  was  not  at  hand,  he  seized 
his  wife  and  dragged  her  along  with  his  army.  After  suf- 
fering frightful  tortures,  her  hair  mostly  torn  from  her  head, 
she  suffered  death  from  merciful  bullets.  That  she  was  a 
relative,  of  Lopez  was  nothing  to  the  monster  of  cruelty  who 
caused  a  brother  to  be  shot  and  his  own  mother  to  be  flogged. 

The  country  on  the  left  with  low  banks  is  called  the  Chaco, 
first  the  Argentine,  and  above  Asuncion  the  Paraguayan;  it 
is  a  wonderful  section  many  times  traversed,  but  not  yet 
thoroughly  explored;  with  the  region  to  the  north  one  of  the 
least  known  parts  of  the  earth.  From  the  highlands  of 
Bolivia  at  the  northwest  the  slope  is  extremely  gradual  caus- 
ing many  swamps.  With  some  poor  land  there  is  more  with 
rich  vegetation,  immense  forests,  wild  animals  of  many  kinds, 
including  boa  constrictors.  And  there  is  a  tale  of  a  creature 
called  Mboya  Jagwa,  dog  snake,  a  water  serpent  unknown  to 
science,  60  or  70  feet  long  with  a  head  like  a  dog  and  a  hooked 
tail.  The  Indians  all  agree  in  their  description  of  it,  and  one 
village  moved  to  another  part  of  the  country  because  one  of 
these  creatures  had  settled  near  by. 

Two  days  have  passed  on  the  clearer  waters  of  the  Para- 
guay when  a  strange  sight  appears  in  this  alluvial  land;  some 
large  stone  buildings  and  great  boulders  of  red  stone  along  the 
bank,  then  a  rocky  sugar  loaf  mountain,  not  very  high,  a  mere 
babe  of  a  mountain,  but  a  pleasing  sight  in  this  flat  land.  A 
different  country  is  here ;  red  cliffs,  honeycombed  with  caves, 
rise  from  the  shore.  One  more  corner,  and  the  city  of 
Asuncion  appears,  after  so  much  wilderness,  an  imposing 
display  of  white  walls,  roofs  and  spires,  facing  not  only  the 
stream  up  which  we  have  sailed,  but  the  broad  PILeomayo,f 
flowing  in  from  the  northwest,  which  marks  on  that  side  the j 
boundary  between  Argentina  and  Paraguay. 

Asuncion,  capital  of  Paraguay,  is  called  by  one  English 
writer  the  cleanest,  nicest  town  on  the  river  above  Buenos 


ASUNCION  269 

Aires.  Situated  on  a  hillside  above  the  stream,  it  has  fine 
natural  drainage ;  and  good  air  and  sunshine  make  it  a  healthy 
place,  to  which  many  come  from  the  south  to  recover  from 
tuberculosis.  A  thousand  miles  from  the  sea  it  is  only  203 
feet  above  the  ocean's  level.  With  a  population  of  80,000  it 
is  still  a  quiet,  sleepy  town ;  for  several  hours  at  noon  in  sum- 
mer the  streets  are  practically  deserted.  The  Gran  Hotel  del 
Paraguay  is  supplied  with  baths,  has  French  cooking,  and 
English  is  spoken.  A  Paraguayan  peso  is  said  to  be  worth  8 
cents  gold,  so  it  may  be  well  not  to  have  too  many. 

On  the  main  Plaza,  of  course,  is  the  Government  Palace, 
which  was  built  by  Lopez  just  before  the  war  and  is  now  used 
for  the  offices  of  the  President  and  the  Members  of  his  Cab- 
inet; the  second  story  windows  afford  a  splendid  view;  here 
a  breeze  is  ever  blowing.  The  National  Library  deserves  a 
visit,  for  it  contains  the  finest  existing  collection  of  old  Span- 
ish documents  connected  with  the  history  of  the  Plata  region, 
and  Jesuit  annals  from  1534  to  1600;  interesting  accounts 
also  of  what  was  nearly  a  condition  of  State  Socialism  under 
Dr.  Praneia  and  the  elder  Lopez.  These  documents,  carried 
off  by  the  younger  Lopez  when  he  abandoned  the  capital, 
were  for  many  years  in  peasants '  houses  at  Piribebuy,  where 
many  valuable  manuscripts  were  used  as  waste  paper. 

The  Museo  de  Bellas  Aries  boasts  of  at  least  one  Murillo 
and  half  a  dozen  other  paintings  which  would  adorn  any 
European  collection;  portraits  too  of  many  historical  per- 
sonages. The  streets,  paved  with  stone  and  lined  with  white- 
washed walls,  well  reflect  the  sun ;  here  is  repeated  the  saying 
that  only  the  English  and  mad  dogs  walk  on  the  sunny  side 
of  the  street,  although  the  climate  even  in  summer  is  not 
marked  by  extreme  heat.  From  Tacumbu,  the  summit  of  the 
ridge  above  the  town,  a  beautiful  view  will  be  had  of  long 
"stretches  of  winding  river  up  and  down,  and  leagues  over  the 
Chaco  forests  opposite  as  well  as  the  rolling  country  to  the 
east.  The  forests  are  not  of  one  or  a  few  kinds  of  trees. 
Out  of  a  number  of  163,  in  a  space  100  yards  square,  there 
were  47  (not  57)  varieties.  The  land  is  well  adapted  to 
intensive  cultivation,  on  account  of  the  great  variety  of  prod- 
ucts which  may  be  raised.  There  is  good  hunting,  boar, 
jaguar,  monkeys,  red  wolf,  etc.,  and  a  great  field  for  scien- 


270  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tists  in  both  vegetable  and  animal  worlds.  Also  there  is  a 
chance  for  the  treasure  seeker ;  for  when  Lopez  fled  from  the 
capital  he  took  with  Mm  seven  cartloads  of  specie,  at  least 
$5,000,000.  One  cartload,  on  account  of  hot  pursuit,  was 
dumped  over  the  bank  into  a  river.  The  rest  was  carried  on 
and  buried  in  the  midst  of  a  swamp  where  it  was  marked  by 
a  wooden  cross.  This  cross  was  burned  in  a  prairie  fire, 
Lopez  and  all  of  his  men  perished,  the  records  were  lost ;  but 
one  man  is  reported  as  living  who  followed  the  wheel  tracks 
to  the  end.  However,  the  money  obviously  belonged  to  the 
Government  of  Paraguay  and  if  found,  which  is  improbable, 
a  good  portion  at  least  would  have  to  be  forfeited  to  the 
Government. 

Every  one  who  comes  to  Asuncion  will  wish  to  purchase  a 
bit  of  Nanduty  lace,  as  it  is  called,  a  specialty  of  Paraguayan 
handiwork,  some  of  it  very  fine  and  beautiful.  It  bears  re- 
semblance in  patterns  to  Mexican  drawn  work ;  it  is  not,  how- 
ever, drawn,  but  is  genuine  lace,  Tt  may  be  purchased  also 
in  Buenos  Aires;  perhaps  sometimes  in  Montevideo,  but  none 
could  be  found  there  in  1912  in  spite  of  a  strenuous  hunt, 
nor  in  Eio  either.  The  prices  are  moderate,  and  no  man  need 
hesitate  about  purchasing  a  piece.  No  woman  will. 

Another  specialty  of  Paraguay  is  the  yerba  mate,  some- 
times called  Paraguay  tea,  which  is  raised  also  in  neighbor- 
ing parts  of  Argentina  and  Brazil.  This  herb,  Ilex  para- 
guayensis,  or  South  American  holly,  grows  as  a  bush  or  tree 
resembling  the  orange.  The  leaves,  which  are  bright  green, 
are  used  to  make  a  tea,  in  these  three  countries  very  popular 
with  natives,  and  with  many  immigrants ;  it  is  being  gradually 
introduced  into  Europe.  The  leaf  is  smoked  and  powdered. 
The  beverage  is  made  by  putting  some  of  this  powder  into  a 
small  gourd  called  a  mate,  and  pouring  on  boiling  water. 
After  it  has  steeped  a  while,  flavored  with  lemon  or  sugar, 
it  is  drunk  through  a  lombilla,  a  tube  enlarged  at  the  end  to  a 
sort  of  oval  ball,  with  small  holes  which  admit  the  liquid,  but 
are  supposed  to  keep  out  the  powdered  tea.  The  natives  and 
others  drink  this  on  all  occasions.  Taken  in  moderation  it 
is  very  wholesome,  of  more  or  less  the  same  class  as  tea  and 
coffee,  but  containing  less  tannin  than  either;  of  caffein  or 
them  it  has  less  than  tea  but  about  the  same  as  coffee.  It 


IGUASSU  FALLS  AND  PARAGUAY  271 

does  not  irritate  but  soothes  the  nervous  system,  and  is  bene- 
ficial to  the  digestion  unless  used  to  excess.  When  used 
instead  of  food  it  becomes  injurious.  Thus  a  gentleman, 
Scotch,  who  had  been  in  the  habit  of  taking  12  or  14  cups  in 
the  morning  and  eating  nothing  until  noon,  at  length  found 
himself  in  a  bad  way.  Placed  by  his  doctor  on  a  sensible  diet, 
a  good  breakfast  with  only  2  or  3  cups  of  mate,  he  found  his 
health  soon  restored.  It  is  estimated  that  in  South  America, 
despite  the  great  coffee  production,  10,000,000  persons  drink 
mate.  It  is  sold  in  England,  France,  Germany,  and  other 
countries  of  Europe,  the  United  States  being  slowest  in  learn- 
ing to  appreciate  its  excellence.  In  1909  more  than  2  million 
pounds  were  produced.  Plantations  are  now  being  set  out 
and  its  production  and  consumption  are  certain  to  increase 
amazingly. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 

URUGUAY 

THE  country  of  Uruguay  has  the  distinction  of  being  the 
youngest,  and  the  smallest  in  area,  of  all  of  the  South  Amer- 
ican Republics.  It  must  not,  however,  be  inferred  that  it  is 
therefore  the  most  backward.  On  the  contrary,  its  financial 
reputation  is  of  the  best,  its  bonds  selling  in  Europe  at  par 
and  above,  while  the  population  to  the  square  mile  is  greater 
than  that  of  any  other  country  in  South  America.  Although 
small,  indeed,  by  the  side  of  its  neighbors,  Brazil  and  Argen- 
tina, it  is  twice  the  size  of  Portugal  and  about  the  same  size  as 
New  England  combined  with  Maryland;  a  trifle  smaller  than 
the  Brazilian  State  of  Sao  Paulo,  or  than  our  State  of 
Nebraska. 

HISTOBY 

While  the  very  first  landing  in  the  Plata  River  section  was 
naturally  made  in  this  country,  Juan  Diaz  de  Solis  with  fifty  of  his 
followers  here  going  ashore  in  1515,  unfortunately  to  meet  death  at 
the  hands  of  hostile  Indians,  the  permanent  settlement  of  Monte- 
video was  delayed  until  December  24,  1726.  The  Charrua  Indians 
inhabiting-  the  country  seem  to  have  been  a  particularly  fierce  tribe, 
and  several  attempts  at  settlement  in  various  places  resulted  dis- 
astrously. In  the  seventeenth  century,  a  number  of  colonies  had 
been  established  by  the  Franciscans  and  Jesuits,  including1  one  at 
Colonia,  which  site  with  the  country  in  general,  at  that  time  called 
the  Banda  Oriental,  was  long  a  bone  of  contention  between  the 
Spanish  and  the  Portuguese. 

After  the  Junta  of  Buenos  Aires  had  in  1810  established  its  rule 
within  its  own  borders,  Montevideo  was  for  a  short  time  the  seat 
of  the  Spanish  "Viceroy;  but  the  people  of  Uruguay  soon  became 
eager  for  independence  and  under  the  leadership  of  Artigas  a  war 
was  waged  for  years,  sometimes  against  the  Spanish,  then  against 
the  Portuguese,  and  even  the  Portenos  of  Buenos  Aires.  After 
the  destruction  of  the  Spanish  fleet  by  Admiral  Brown,  Montevideo, 
June  20,  1814^  surrendered  to  the  besieging  army,  and  the  Span- 
ish, power  on  the  River  Plata  was  ended.  General  Alvear  of 

272 


UEUGUAY  273 

Buenos  Aires,  for  a  short  time  in  command,  presently  withdrew 
leaving  the  city  in  the  hands  of  one  of  Artigas'  lieutenants,  the 
General  remaining  in  camp  on  the  Uruguay  Riven  In  1816  the 
Portuguese  from  Brazil  invaded  the  country,  and  Artigas  was 
finally  obliged  to  take  refuge  in  Paraguay. 

When  in  1824  the  power  of  Spain  was  finally  destroyed  on  the 
whole  continent,  Uruguay  alone  was  destitute  of  independence. 
In  the  midst  of  rejoicing  at  Buenos  Aires  over  the  victory  of 
Ayacueho,  Lavalleja,  who  had  earlier  distinguished  himself  against 
the  Spaniards,  and  other  exiles  from  Uruguay  were  moved  to  free 
their  own  country  from  foreign  dominion.  It  was  a  small  band  of 
thirty-three  men,  Treinta  y  Tres,  now  a  popular  name  in  Uruguay, 
that  set  out  from  Buenos  Aires  for  the  invasion  of  that  country. 
Having  crossed  the  Uruguay  River,  they  soon  obtained  forty  re- 
cruits and  after  a  brief  skirmish  with  the  Portuguese  forces  took 
the  town  of  Dolores.  General  Rivera,  sent  against  Lavalleja,  for- 
sook the  Brazilian  service  and  with  his  men  joined  the  patriots. 
Soon  the  whole  of  Uruguay  was  in  arms,  an  independent  govern- 
ment was  established  at  Florida,  The  Portuguese  fleet  was  later 
defeated  by  the  Argentine  Admiral  Brown,  and  a  series  of  victories 
culminating  in  the  battle  of  Ituzaingo,  which  made  the  expulsion  of 
the  Portuguese  seem  inevitable,  incited  Lavalleja  in  October,  1827, 
to  proclaim  himself  Dictator,  though  in  July,  1828,  he  voluntarily 
resigned  the  office.  In  August  both  Argentina  and  Brazil  ac- 
knowledged the  independence  of  Uruguay  and  on  May  1,  1829,  the 
national  authorities  made  a  formal  entry  into  Montevideo. 

After  a  constitution  had  been  adopted,  July  18,  1830,  the  Na- 
tional Assembly  in  October  elected  Rivera,  President,  to  the  great 
disgust  of  Lavalleja  who  at  once  plotted  against  the  government. 
Rivera,  however,  twice  drove  him  from  the  country  into  Brazil 
and  served  his  term  of  four  years*  The  second  President  was 
General  Oribe,  one  of  the  Thirty-three,  who  combined  with  Lavalleja 
against  Rivera  and,  with  the  assistance  of  the  Argentine  Dictator 
Rosas,  defeated  him  in  a  battle  which  was  of  especial  historical 
importance  from  the  fact  that  the  red  and  white  colors  were  used 
to  distinguish  the  forces,  ever  since  emblems  of  bitter  strife  as 
the  badges  of  the  two  parties  called  Colorados,  R«ds,  and  Blancos, 
Whites,  the  former  that  of  Rivera,  the  latter  of  Oribe. 

Sighting  was  almost  continuous  until  the  fall  of  Rosas  in  1851, 
Giro  became  the  fourth  President  in  1852  but  in  1853  revolts  began 
again.  The  deaths  of  Rivera  and  Lavalleja  about  this  time  had 
no  effect  in  promoting  peace.  Strife  continued  until  in  February, 
1865,  Flores,  having  obtained  the  active  support  of  Brazil  and  en- 
tered Montevideo,  was  made  Dictator  of  the  Republic*  Then  little 


274  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

Paraguay,  previously  asked  to  interfere,  jealous  of  Brazil's  power, 
continued  the  fight.  And  Paraguay,  with  her  army  of  80,000  men, 
might  have  been  equal  to  any  one  of  the  countries  alone.  During 
this  war  Flores,  who  was  of  the  Colorado  party,  was  assassinated 
in  Montevideo,  a  terrible  visitation  of  cholera  occurred  in  1868,  and 
a  financial  crisis  that  ruined  thousands  in  1869.  Troubles  were  in- 
cessant and  up  to  the  present  time  hardly  a  single  President  has 
had  an  entirely  peaceful  term.  That  after  this  prolonged  condition 
of  turbulence,  the  Republic  shows  so  remarkable  a  degree  of  devel- 
opment and  prosperity  is  wonderful  indeed. 

As  to  the  country  in  general,  it  may  be  said  that  while  it 
possesses  no  striking  features  such  as  lofty  mountains  or  great 
waterfalls,  it  is  a  beautifully  diversified  region,  with  no  flat 
or  desert  land,  but  with  low  ridges,  valleys,  and  rolling  plains, 
in  some  parts  well  wooded.  It  is  admirably  adapted  for  graz- 
ing and  agricultural  products.  The  climate  is  healthful  and 
delightful,  the  population,  numbering  about  1,300,000,  is  more 
homogeneous  than  in  most  of  the  Eepublies,  and  forms  an 
enterprising  and  progressive  nation. 

MONTEVIDEO 

HOTELS.  Pyramides,  Sarandf  corner  Ituzaingo;  Grand  Hotel 
Lanatta,  Sarandi  325;  Central,  25  de  Mayo,  245;  Oriental,  Solis, 
corner  Piedras;  Palado,  Calle  Florida;  Globe,  25  de  Agosto  and 
Colon.  In  the  suburbs,  Parque  TJrbano,  and  Potitos. 

Excellent  electric  cars  and  service.  Fare  in  center  of  the  city, 
4  cents,  farther  out  6,  8,  10,  and  to  Colon,  14  cts.  Carnage  fare 
$1.00  or  $1.50  an  hour.  Post  Office,  Sarandi  207.  Postage,  letters 
to  United  States  or  Europe,  8  cents;  cards,  2  cents. 

Uruguay  dollars,  pesos,  are  worth  a  little  more  than  the  Ameri- 
can; $10.00  United  States  currency  equals  $9.66  Uruguay.  Or  $1.00 
Uruguay  equals  about  $1.04  of  our  money. 

The  office  of  the  United  States  Minister  is  on  the  18  de  Julio, 
221,  that  of  the  American  Consul  in  Treinta  y  Tres;  53.  The  Brit- 
ish Legation  is  at  445,  25  de  Mayo,  the  Consulate  at  20  Parana. 

On  landing  at  Montevideo  a  carriage  may  be  taken  to  the 
hotel  preferred,  or  decision  reserved  until  they  have  been 
inspected.  No  one  in  the  center  of  the  city  is  pre-eminent  but 
several  -will  be  found  satisfactory  except  to  the  hyper-critical. 
First  may  be  mentioned  the  PyrawAdes  Hotel  on  Sarandi  at 


MONTEVIDEO  275 

the  corner  of  Ituzaingo,  near  the  Plaza  Constituei6n,  highly 
spoken  of.  "Well  known  is  the  Grand  Hotel  Lan-atta  facing 
the  same  plaza ;  the  Oriental  Hotel,  the  Central,  the  Globe,  the 
Florida,  are  all  available,  close  to  the  center  of  the  city. 

A  clean,  homelike,  and  agreeable  city  is  Montivideo,  most 
attractive  as  a  place  of  residence,  and  preferred  by  many  to 
the  great  metropolis  farther  up  the  river,  with  its  million 
more  inhabitants.  About  the  size  of  our  own  capital,  "Wash- 
ington, it  is  large  enough  for  all  practical  purposes,  and  is  the 
home  of  a  wide-awake  community.  Several  days  should  be 
devoted  to  the  various  objects  of  interest,  which  include  parks, 
suburban  and  seaside  resorts  of  great  beauty  and  elegance. 

Sight-seeing  may  be  commenced  with  a  stroll  in  the  center 
of  the  city,  after  which  excursions  by  car  or  carriage  will 
be  in  order.  As  in  Buenos  Aires,  the  cars  are  conveniently 
numbered,  which  renders  the  service  especially  valuable  to 
strangers. 

Plaza  Constitution,  sometimes  called  the  Matriz,  is  a  good 
place  to  begin.  Of  the  twelve  large  plazas,  this,  with  several 
others,  has  a  pretty  garden  occupying  the  center.  On  the  east 
side  is  the  CabUdo,  a  quaint  old  building  now  used  for  the 
Legislative  Assemblies,  the  only  building  of  historic  impor- 
tance in  the  city,  which  is  practically  all  new.  Opposite  is  the 
Cathedral  with  towers  133  feet  high.  To  the  handsome  in- 
terior, paintings  and  other  decorations  have  recently  been 
added,  and  there  is  a  sweet-toned  organ.  On  the  south  side 
next  to  the  Lanatta  Hotel  is  the  Uruguay  Club,  which  is  hand- 
somely housed,  its  imposing  salon  for  receptions  and  balls  the 
occasional  rendezvous  of  the  elite  of  the  city.  On  the  north 
side  of  the  plaza  is  the  home  of  the  English  Club. 

On  the  Plaza  Independence  not  far  away,  reached  by  the 
ealle  Sarandi,  is  the  Government  Palace  containing  the  offices 
of  the  President  and  Ministers,  presently  to  be  superseded  by 
a  splendid  structure  on  the  principal  avenue,  18  de  Julio. 
Just  off  the  corner  of  this  plaza  is  the  Solis  Theater,  with  a 
handsome  Ionic  front,  a  rather  ancient  building  for  Mon- 
tevideo, more  than  fifty  years  old,  its  right  wing  housing  the 
Museum.  The  theater  which  has  recently  been  remodeled, 
now  seating  over  3000,  is  one  of  the  fine  establishments  of 
South  America,  though  rivaled  in  Montevideo  by  the  newer 


276  .  THE  SOUTH  AMEBICAN  TOITB 

theater  Urquiza,  corner  of  Andes  and  Mercedes,  which  was 
inaugurated  by  Bernhardt  in  1905.  In  one  or  the  other  of 
these  have  appeared  nearly  all  of  the  most  noted  European 
artists,  at  least  of  the  Latin  races,  stars  of  the  drama  and 
of  the  opera  both.  The  people  are  great  lovers  of  the  theater 
and  more  than  2000  performances  are  given  in  a  single  year 
with  about  two  million  spectators. 

The  Museum  includes  a  considerable  collection  of  specimens 
of  the  natural  history  and  geology  of  the  country;  many 
relics  of  the  native  Indian  tribes  now  altogether  extinct,  such 
as  hundreds  of  stone  bolos  and  other  weapons,  with  primitive 
utensils;  souvenirs  of  the  colonial  wars,  and  some  paintings 
by  artists  of  Uruguay  and  Europe. 

The  new  Legislative  Palace  on  the  Avenida  Agraciada  is  a 
magnificent  building  with  two  fine  plazas  in  the  front  and  the 
rear,  and  space  on  all  sides.  The  basement  will  contain  fire- 
proof chambers  for  the  archives,  and  rooms  for  lighting,  heat, 
and  service.  The  ground  floor  has  a  great  vestibule  and  a 
corridor  55  feet  wide  extending  to  the  rear  of  the  building, 
crossed  by  three  others  10  or  12  feet  wide.  Near  the  entrance 
are  quarters  for  the  guard  of  honor,  and  farther  in  are  rooms 
for  police,  telephone  and  telegraph,  wardrobes,  and  other  pur- 
poses. On  the  front  a  great  marble  staircase  55  feet  wide 
leads  up  from  the  ground  to  the  entrance  on  the  main  floor. 
Pedestals  with  costly  bronze  statues  are  designed  to  divide  the 
staircase  into  three  sections.  Two  ramps,  one  on  each  side  of 
the  stairway,  permit  the  ascent  of  vehicles  to  the  main  en- 
trance in  front  of  a  large  hall,  Pasos  Perdidos,  55  feet  wide 
and  160  long,  embellished  with  columns,  and  with  a  staircase 
leading  to  the  floor  above.  The  two  large  chambers  for  the 
Senate  and  the  Representatives,  one  on  each  side,  are  66  feet  in 
diameter  and  two  stories  in  height,  with  galleries  for  the  Press 
and  the  public.  In  the  front  of  the  building  are  salons  for 
the  President  and  the  Ministers,  with  private  rooms,  and  at  the 
sides  and  back  are  rooms  for  the  officials  of  Congress.  The 
design  was  one  of  the  Argentine  architect,  Meano,  modified 
to  suit  local  taste  and  conditions.  The  building,  which  was 
to  cost  $2,000,000, -is  expected  to  be  complete  in  1914. 

Other  interesting  buildings  are  those  of  the  University, 
the  School  of  Arts  and  Trades,  and  the  Agricultural  Institute. 


52 

O 


MONTEVIDEO  277 

There  are  two  groups  of  new  University  buildings,  erected  at 
a  cost  of  $2,000,000;  the  one  on  the  Ave.  18  de  Julio  contain- 
ing the  central  offices  of  administration  with  the  Schools  of 
Law  and  Commerce,  the  other,  the  several  buildings  contain- 
ing the  Medical  School,  the  Chemistry  Building,  and  housings 
for  the  Institute  of  Hygiene,  Physiology,  etc.  The  Adminis- 
tration Building  occupies  an  entire  block  between  Caigna  and 
Yaro,  where  formerly  was  the  School  of  Arts  and  Trades. 
Of  classical  Italian  architecture,  with  two  stories  and  a  high 
basement,  it  contains  ten  class  rooms  seating  from  50  to  100 
each,  two  halls  seating  200,  and  one  accommodating  800. 
There  is  a  law  library  of  30,000  volumes,  one  of  the  best  in 
South  America,  while  for  the  present  the  National  Library 
also  is  in  the  building.  The  large  high  school  occupies  a 
handsome  structure  covering  most  of  the  block  south,  facing 
on  Lavalleja.  It  is  well  fitted  up  with  laboratories,  gym- 
nasium with  baths  and  rest  room,  class  rooms  light  and  airy, 
and  with  all  modern  scholarly  and  hygienic  equipment. 

The  Medical  School  occupies  the  block  formerly  the  Plaza 
Sarandi,  being  surrounded  by  the  streets  Uruguayana,  La- 
dislao  Terra,  Tatay  and  Marelino  Sosa,  not  far  from  the  new 
Congressional  Palace.  There  are  three  separate  buildings 
which  are  arranged  and  fitted  up  in  a  style  which  would 
meet  the  demands  of  such  an  institution  anywhere.  The  cen- 
tral part  of  the  main  building  is  occupied  by  the  various 
offices,  council  chamber,  library,  and  reading  room,  a  hall 
seating  1000,  etc.;  one  wing  is  devoted  to  the  Institute  of 
Physiology,  the  other  to  that  of  Anatomy.  The  Department 
of  Chemistry  has  a  fine  building  on  Ladislao  Terra  and  Tatay, 
the  Department  of  Hygiene,  one  on  Ladislao  Terra  and 
Uruguayana. 

Other  Schools  which  might  be  connected  with  the  Univer- 
sity but  which  have  a  distinct  organization  are  the  Agricul- 
tural and  the  Veterinary.  The  latter  is  a  little  farther*  out 
on  one  of  the  principal  avenues  of  the  outer  city,  the  Lar- 
ranaga,  with  grounds  covering  30  acres.  It  will  ultimately 
include  a  number  of  buildings  for  the  various  departments, 
Laboratories,  Clinics,  Autopsies,  etc.,  but  at  present  is  con- 
fined to  laboratories,  class  rooms,  and  hall  for  clinics.  The 
School  of  Agriculture  is  a  fine  large  building  in  the  suburb 


278  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

of  Sayago,  45  minutes  by  electrics  from  the  center  of  the 
city,  fare  10  cents.  The  edifice  contains  excellent  laboratories, 
class  rooms,  and  general  offices,  and  is  doing  an  important 
work  of  great  value  to  the  country.  The  four-story  building 
near  the  harbor  landing,  formerly  occupied  by  the  University, 
is  now  used  as  an  Engineering  School. 

A  Pedagogical  Museum  of  considerable  interest  to  one  with 
some  knowledge  of  educational  problems  and  work,  is  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Plaza  Libertad  next  to  the  Athenaeum,  an 
institution  of  much  literary  and  scientific  importance  in 
Montevideo. 

Another  educational  edifice  which  some  may  be  glad  to  visit 
is  one  which  houses  both  the  Military  Academy  and  the  Naval 
School.  The  situation  is  a  convenient  one  on  the  edge  of  the 
city  with  grounds  covering  30  acres,  yet  only  15  minutes  by 
electric  car  from  the  center  of  the  town.  The  building  with 
a  fagade  250  feet  long  fronts  on  Ave.  Garibaldi,  but  sets 
back  60  feet  allowing  space  for  a  pretty  garden.  In  the  left 
wing  are  the  class  rooms  of  the  Military  School,  in  the  right 
those  of  the  Naval.  On  the  next  floor  are  dormitories,  baths, 
etc*  In  the  center  are  rooms  common  to  both,  a  casino,  fenc- 
ing-room, and  a  large  hall  for  festal  occasions.  Above  is  a 
tower  with  steel  cupola  for  the  Astronomical  Observatory.  In 
the  rear  are  great  depots,  naval  and  military,  a  large  gym- 
nasium, a  swimming  tank,  100  by  150  feet,  stables,  hospitals,  a 
riding  course,  athletic  field,  etc.  On  the  inside,  covered  gal- 
leries permit  passage  from  one  building  to  another  in  the  rain ; 
the  U  shaped  constructions  surround  a  large  space  orna- 
mented with  trees.  There  is  excellent  ventilation  in  the  main 
building,  windows  on  both  sides,  so  that  in  class  and  in  the 
infirmary  each  student  enjoys  much  more  air  space  than  the 
highest  amount  prescribed. 

The  School  of  Arts  and  Trades  in  San  Salvador  street,  be- 
tween SCnas  and  Magallanes,  may  be  reached  by  cars  36  and 
46. 

Other  institutions  which  may  be  visited  are  the  Peniten~ 
tiary,  the  Markets,  and  the  Cemeteries.  The  first  may  not 
interest  every  tourist;  but  if  one  desires  to  see  a  model  con- 
struction of  this  category,  arranged  according  to  the  most 
modem  tenets  of  penal  science  and  of  hygiene,  the  oppor- 


MONTEVIDEO  279 

trinity  here  presented  should  be  seized.  It  has  a  fine  situation 
near  the  river  on  Punta  Carreta  (30  minutes  by  Car  No.  35, 
fare  8  cts.),  especially  open  to  the  southeast  winds  well  venti- 
lating courts  and  interiors.  The  rectangular  plan  was  pre- 
ferred to  the  radial.  Back  of  the  administration  building 
is  the  entrance  to  the  prison  proper,  which  is  surrounded  by 
a  great  wall  nearly  40  feet  high.  Here  a  military  guard  is 
placed.  On  one  side  of  a  central  corridor  is  the  Mtchen  and 
bakery,  on  the  other,  the  laundry.  Separated  by  a  large 
court  from  these  is  the  prison  house  with  384  well  lighted 
cells,  each  13  feet  long,  8  wide,  and  over  10  feet  high,  fur- 
nished with  iron  folding  bed,  book  shelf,  bench,  and  porcelain 
bowl  and  seat.  Opening  on  a  corridor  20  feet  wide,  the  cells 
are  arranged  in  4  stories,  to  which  lead  marble  and  iron  stair- 
cases and  elevators.  Fifty  baths  are  at  the  service  of  the  pris- 
oners, who  may  choose  either  warm  water  or  sea  water  for 
their  ablutions.  Workshops  of  eight  classes  are  provided  for 
the  convicts:  iron  and  tin  work,  carpentry,  broom  and  shoe 
making,  printing,  and  book  binding.  Two  patios,  160  by  220 
feet,  afford  space  for  recreation,  and  -there  is  room  within  the 
enclosure  for  two  more  prison  houses  if  at  any  time  they  are 
needed. 

Every  one  likes  to  see  Markets  if  not  prisons.  Of  these 
there  are  four,  most  important,  the  new  market  Agricola  for 
wholesale  trade,  built  of  iron  except  for  the  base  wall,  and 
roofed  with  glass  according  to  the  Dion  system,  the  construc- 
tion covering  65,000  square  feet  with  a  central  height  of  72 
feet.  Provision  is  made  for  the  entrance  and  circulation 
of  carts;  four  galleries  45  feet  wide  surrounding  the  large  cen- 
tral open  space  provide  shelter  for  attendants  and  for  the 
service  of  the  market. 

Of  the  four  cemeteries,  the  Central  at  the  foot  of  Yaguaron 
street  is  called  the  best ;  the  Buceo,  which  is  the  largest,  may  be 
reached  by  Car  39,  and  by  Car  38  which  runs  to  the  suburb 
Uwon,  passing  the  Buceo  and  the  beautiful  British  Cemetery 
adjoining.  All  of  these  are  finely  situated  on  a  bluff  above 
the  water.  They  are  adorned  with  trees  and  flowers,  and  con- 
tain many  fine  monuments,  some  of  which  are  sculptured  by 
noted  artists. 

The  Parks  and  Watering  Places,  most  important  features 


280  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

of  Montevideo  life,  have  perhaps  been  left  too  long;  they  are 
attractions  of  the  highest  rank  which  no  one  should  overlook, 
however  short  his  stay.  The  largest  and  finest  park  is  called 
the  PradOy  which  contains  also  the  National  Botanical  Gar- 
dens. One  may  here  roam  for  miles  among  immense  mag- 
nificent trees,  half  a  century  old,  sheltering  smaller  palms  and 
bamboos,  flowering  shrubs,  and  beautiful  gardens;  here  too 
are  lakes  and  grottoes,  vegetation  of  cool  and  of  warmer 
climes,  a  region  more  delightful  on  account  of  the  hills  and 
hollows  with  which  it  is  diversified,  in  pleasing  contrast  to 
the  flatness  of  the  Argentine  shore.  The  park,  which  is  sur- 
rounded by  villas  and  chalets,  is  approached  by  three  fine 
avenues  and  may  be  reached  by  three  lines  of  ears,  2,  44, 
and  47  (8  ets.  fare)  in  25  minutes. 

A  little  nearer  the  city  and  on  the  other  side,  close  to  the 
ocean,  is  Parque  Tfrbano,  served  in  a  ride  of  20  minutes  by 
six  lines  of  cars,  Nos.  5,  6,  7,  33,  36,  and  46,  with  4  ets.  fare. 
This  is  a  most  popular  recreation  ground,  a  large  park  with 
trees,  flowers,  lakes,  pretty  bridges,  etc.,  a  great  circular  ave- 
nue, a  theater  of  novelties,  and  near  the  entrance  on  the  side 
towards  the  sea  a  pavilion  where  popcorn  is  made  and  sold 
by  a  fine  young  man  and  his  happy  looking  wife,  both  from 
the  United  States.  Popcorn  is  a  new  and  popular  article  of 
food  for  the  natives;  every  American  will  certainly  wish  to 
buy  some.  Business  is  good  and  the  young  couple  enjoy  the 
place  and  the  people,  though  now  expecting  to  come  home 
some  day.  The  seashore  in  front  is  called  Playa  Ramirez,  a 
fine  bathing  resort.  On  the  sands  stand  a  multitude  of  little 
bath-houses  on  wheels,  which  a  horse  draws  out  into  the  water, 
thus  permitting  less  display  of  gay  bathing  costumes  or  of 
bathers  than  on  our  own  beaches,  a  custom  with  obvious 
advantages.  The  men  generally  go  in  on  one  side  of  the 
iron  pier,  the  women  and  children  on  the  other. 

Close  to  the  Park  and  the  Beach  is  an  imposing  hotel  and! 
casino,  four  stories  high,  the  TJrbano,  with  300  rooms,  a  great 
dining  hall,  and  other  salons,  called  the  finest  and  most 
luxurious  hotel  in  South  Am  erica.  It  was  erected  at  a  cost 
of  $600,000,  and  since  it  was  opened  in  1909  it  has  been  a 
point  of  attraction  to  many  of  the  best  Argentine  society,  as 
well  as  to  the  people  of  Uruguay. 


SOLIS  THEATRE 


GOVERNMENT    PALACE 


MONTEVIDEO  281 

Potitos,  a  little  farther  out,  is  another  much  frequented 
bathing  resort.  The  Thursday  and  Sunday  concerts  at  both 
beaches  attract  thousands.  In  the  vicinity  are  many  fine 
residences.  A  splendid  esplanade  along  the  shore  leads  to 
Trouwtte,  another -beach  beyond.  Poeitos,  the  most  fashion- 
able of  the  resorts,  also  has  a  hotel  of  the  first  rank. 

On  the  port  side  of  the  city  many  improvements  have  been 
made  and  more  are  planned.  Along  the  south  side  of  the 
promontory  a  fine  esplanade  is  to  be  constructed  to  extend 
also  along  the  east  shore  to  Eamirez  and  Poeitos  in  the  man- 
ner of  the  Avenida  Beira  Mar  at  Rio  de  Janeiro.  Poeitos, 
a  30  minutes'  run,  is  served  by  the  cars  31  and  37,  fare  8  cts. 

Under  the  head  of  parks  may  be  included  the  Zoological 
Gardens  at  Villa  Dolores  (ears  38  and  39,  time  20  minutes, 
fare  8  ets.),  a  private  property,  but  open  to  the  public  for 
a  small  fee.  In  addition  to  a  considerable  collection  of  ani- 
mals, unusually  extensive  in  the  line  of  birds  and  domestic 
fowls,  there  are  various  artistic  features,  artificial  grottoes, 
lakes,  waterfalls,  imitation  of  classical  ruins,  etc.  A  rather 
original  feature  is  a  little  cemetery  of  various  animals,  their 
graves  marked  by  life-size  sculptures:  lions,  dogs,  a  rabbit, 
a  cock,  even  a  huge  anaconda,  a  curious  collection.  The 
entrance  fees  are  devoted  to  charitable  institutions  of  the  city. 

The  Hippodrome  and  horse  races,  if  not  quite  equaling  the 
grand  display  at  Buenos  Aires,  are  in  excellent  style,-  the 
accommodations  are  elegant  and  luxurious,  and  the  races 
under  the  direction  of  the  local  Jockey  Club  are  fashionable 
events  where  many  notable  horses  have  appeared.  The 
receipts  are  in  the  neighborhood  of  $2,000,000  annually,  the 
prizes  in  1910  were  over  $400,000.  The  Hippodrome,  estab- 
lished in  1888  at  the  suburb  Maronas,  may  be  reached  by 
Cars  13,  17,  and  51  after  a  45  minutes7  ride,  for  the  sum  of 
1Q  cts.  Eaces  occur  on  days  of  -fiesta  from  the  first  Sunday 
in  March  to  the  middle  of  January.  During  the  short  vaca- 
tion the  horses  rest  and  take  sea-baths  at  Buceo  beach  near 
by.  At  the  gala  events,  when  15,000  people  may  be  present, 
elegant  toilets  are  much  in  evidence,  with  many  automobiles 
and  carriages.  The  betting  is  said  not  to  be  carried  to  such 
an  excess  as  in  some  other  places,  practiced  not  as  a  means 
of  livelihood  but  as  a  pastime,  as  people  bet  only  what  they 


282  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

can  afford.  A  members7  stand  was  recently  erected  at  a 
cost  of  $60,000.  In  the  same  direction  is  the  Parque  Central, 
a  ground  for  athletic  sports,  served  by  Cars  51  and  52  in  25 
minutes  at  a  cost  of  6  ets.  The  people  are  fond  of  sports, 
and  football  is  a  high  favorite;  10,000  persons  may  -attend 
matches. 

The  Immigrants'  Hotel  on  Bella  Vista  Beach,  opened  July 
18,  1908,  is  an  excellent  institution,  capable  of  receiving 
1000  guests,  and  containing  all  suitable  offices. 

In  mentioning  these  points  of  interest  several  suburbs  have 
been  spoken  of,  but  others  should  if  possible  be  visited,  as 
these  form  one  of  the  great  attractions  of  the  city.  One  of 
the  most  enjoyable  and  important  of  these  excursions  is  to 
the  Cerro,  a  hill  overlooking  the  bay,  to  be  reached  in  55 
minutes  by  No.  16  car,  fare  14  cts.,  or  by  ferry  from  the 
landing  every  half  hour,  fare  10  ets.  It  is  well  to  go  one 
way  and  return  another.  "While  the  hill  is  not  very  high 
and  is  easily  climbed  it  is  notable  for  several  reasons*  It 
was  the  occasion  of  the  name,  Montevideo,  /  see  a  moun- 
tain; it  is  the  first  true  hill  on  the  banks  of  the  Plata,  and, 
far  more  wonderful,  it  is  the  last  (so  Mr.  Koebel  says),  for 
over  1000  miles;  since  the  river  Parana,  as  well  as  the  Plata, 
flows  through  a  very  flat  country  and  the  next  hill  is  close 
to  Asuncion  in  Paraguay.  Other  hills  there  are  in  Uruguay 
and  higher,  but  these  are  along  the  Atlantic  coast  and  not  on 
the  rivers.  From  the  Cerro  there  is  a  varied  panorama, 
worth  seeing  if  one  has  time  to  devote  to  the  excursion — on 
one  side  the  bay,  the  city  on  the  promontory,  lapping  over**bn 
the  mainland,  the  coast  line,  and  the  ocean  slightly  blue; 
on  the  other  the  level  shore  and  the  yellowish  brown  river. 

Of  the  nearer  surburbs  the  Paso  Molino  on  the  way  to  the 
Prado  is  one  of  the  best  residential  districts.  The  suburb 
of  Colon,  ear  41  (60  minutes,  14  cts.),  is  one  of  the  prettiest; 
this  car  passes  through  Sayago  suburb  where  the  Agri- 
cultural Institute  is  situated.  The  ride  is  a  charming  one, 
with  pretty  qwntas  all  along  (houses  set  in  their  own  gar- 
dens), and  at  Colon  restaurants,  pleasure  gardens,  and  miles 
of  avenues  of  stately  eucalyptus  trees. 

Other  Towns.  If  one  has  time  for  more  distant  excursions 
there  are  a  number  of  places  which  deserve  a  visit,  some  of 


URUGUAY  283 

these  more  accessible  from  Buenos  Aires.  The  old  town  of 
Colonia,  to  which  boats  often  run  from  the  Argentine  capital, 
is  across  the  river,  and  three  miles  from  that  old-fashioned, 
quiet  city  is  a  new  resort  called  Eeal  de  San  Carlos,  where  a 
great  hotel  is  planned  and  where  some  attractions  are  already 
installed,  a  bull  ring,  though  the  fights  are  now  discontinued, 
another  ring  for  pelota,  a  fine,  sandy  bathing  beach,  a  modest 
hotel. 

The  great  Liebig  Establishment,  its  products  of  world-wide 
fame,  situated  at  Fray  Bentos  on  the  Uruguay  Eiver,  is  also 
easily  visited  from  Buenos  Aires.  This  Company,  now  with  a 
capital  of  $5,000,000,  with  estancias  in  Paraguay  and  in  sev- 
eral provinces  of  Argentina,  established  its  first  factory  at 
Fray  Bentos  in  1865.  Since  that  time,  in  addition  to  enor- 
mous development  there,  another  large  plant  has  been  created, 
10  miles  farther  up  the  river,  but  on  the  other  side,  in  Ar- 
gentina. Their  beef  extract,  their  Oxo  capsules,  and  their 
Lemco  have  a  deserved  reputation  the  world  over,  as  for  these 
productions  the  best  of  meat  only  is  used,  instead  of  the  leav- 
ings of  poor  or  diseased  meat  said  to  be  employed  in  some 
other  establishments.  All  of  the  products  are  obliged  to 
undergo  a  strict  test?  in  order  to  have  the  use  of  the  Liebig 
name.  For  their  employees,  1500  in  number,  pleasant  homes 
are  provided,  medical  attendance,  schools  for  the  children, 
recreation  grounds,  etc. 

From  Montevideo  excursions  may  easily  be  made  to  two 
unique  resorts  in  Maldonado,  the  next  State  east  of  Canelones 
in  which  the  capital  is  situated.  Both  of  them  face  the  broad 
Atlantic,  though  still  on  the  south  shore.  Especially  should 
every  lover  of  nature,  of  plants  and  trees,  improve  this  op- 
portunity. Not  money-making  pleasure-grounds  are  these, 
but  each  the  labor  of  love  of  a  Uruguayan  gentleman  of  public 
spirit  and  of  great  wealth. 

Punta  Ballena  has  been  converted  into  an  Eden  by  Antonio 
D.  Lussieh,  founder  of  the  first  life-saving  station  in  America. 
A  natural  diversity  has  been  intensified  by  art.  The  Point  by 
a  ridge  is  divided  into  two  parts — on  the  east  are  green  mead- 
ows, lakes,  woods,  and  animals;  on  the  west,  nature  is  stern 
and  savage  with  rocks  and  barren  sands,  grottoes,  etc.  On 
a  height  which  commands  a  view  of  the  Punta  del  Este,  the 


284  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

sea,  the  Lobos  Island  and  Lighthouse,  Senor  Lussich  has  con- 
structed a  residence  with  a  beautiful  garden  in  which  roses  are 
a  specialty,  and  a  wonderful  park  including  among  the  re- 
puted two  million  trees  the  finest  collection  of  eucalyptus  in 
South  America,  more  than  100  varieties. 

Piriapolis.  Probably  even  more  worthy  of  a  visit  is  Piria- 
polis,  to  which  a  railroad  has  recently  been  opened.  Francisco 
Piria,  possessor  of  an  immense  estate  in  this  region,  in  addition 
to  beautifying  a  portion,  has  initiated  a  reform  now  being  fol- 
lowed by  others.  He  sells  on  easy  terms  to  the  poor  consid- 
erable tracts  for  cultivation.  The  city  which,  he  has  laid  out 
on  the  seashore  is  called  an  enchanted  region  unlike  any  other. 
Surrounded  by  mountains  in  the  form  of  a  horse-shoe  open 
to  the  sea,  it  is  arranged  with,  avenues  100  feet  wide  and  with 
twenty  plazas.  A  still  wider  avenue  five  miles  long,  in  part 
macadamized,  bordered  by  large  trees,  crosses  the  entire  prop- 
erty. On  the  city  streets  are  40,000  tall  eucalyptus  trees 
twenty  years  old,  arranged  in  perfect  lines.  The  beach,  the 
finest  on  La  Plata  River,  beautifully  smooth,  so  that  chil- 
dren can  bathe  in  safety,  has  an  area  of  150  acres.  Around 
the  city,  and  in  one  large  grove  are  several  million  trees,  15  to 
20  years  old,  some,  120  feet  high.  The  hotel,  called  the  finest 
in  the  country,  has  140  elegantly  furnished  suites  with  great 
salons  and  dining  hall,  a  portico  250  feet  long.  In  front  a 
beautiful  park  overlooks  the  ocean;  at  the  sides  is  the  Park 
of  Roses,  where  Senor  Piria  has  planted  30,000  rose  trees. 
Besides  these  there  are  groves  of  willows,  walks,  and  a  trellis 
more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  affording  grateful  shade. 
Close  by  is  a  Casino  four  stories  high  with  a  300-foot  front. 
An  artesian  well  supplies  daily  10,000  gallons  of  good  water. 
All  modern  conveniences  are  provided,  such  as  the  latest 
electric  and  laundry  devices. 

Two  hills  separate  this  beach  from  the  next.  On  Cerro 
Ingles  is  a  Fountain  of  the  Virgin,  of  mineral  water  which 
has  constructed  a  stalactite  grotto.  On  the  Cerro  de  los 
Toros  is  another  mineral  spring.  High  up  among  grottoes 
and  cascades,  in  a  semi-circular  wall  of  rocks,  is  a  bronze  bull 
of  double  size,  weighing  nearly  three  tons,  with  a  stream  of 
dear  water  from  the  rocks  above  issuing  from  its  mouth. 
On  the  same  Mil  is  a  Greek  temple  to  Aphrodite  30  feet  high, 


URUGUAY  285 

the  cupola  supported  by  six  marble  columns;  in  the  center 
a  bronze  Venus  with  a  jug  under  her  arm  from  which  will 
pour  daily  5000  gallons  of  mineral  water.  All  of  the  spring 
waters  have  been  analyzed  and  pronounced  good 'for  dyspep- 
sia. At  the  summit  of  this  Cerro  de  los  Toros  is  a  Mnd  of 
crater,  at  the  bottom  of  which,  to  be  seen  only  from  the  top 
of  the  hill,  are  woods  and  meadows.  On  the  Pan  de  Azuear, 
one  of  the  surrounding  mountains,  sheltered  by  a  natural 
wall  of  granite,  is  a  row  of  colossal  palms.  A  chalet  has  here 
been  erected  for  the  benefit  of  youths  making  an  excursion. 
On  the  Cerro  Ingles  as  well,  there  is  a  chalet  for  tourists.  The 
mountains  around,  of  much  interest,  are  also  a  source  of 
great  wealth,  being  composed  of  superb  porphyry,  black  with 
veins  red  or  white,  red  with  black  veins,  green  with  white, 
about  50  beautiful  varieties.  The  Pan  de  Azuear,  nearly  2000 
feet  tall,  alone  is  of  rich  granite,  with  blocks  200  and  250 
feet  high,  from  which  monoliths  may  be  taken.  Senor  Piria 
has  in  this  section  a  ranch  with  blooded  cattle,  a  tract  of 
vineyards,  a  grove  of  10,000  olive  trees,  and  a  chateau  and 
other  buildings  erected  at  a  cost  of  $100,000,  The  place  is 
three  hours  from  Montevideo  by  sea  and  now  that  it  is  ac- 
cessible in  two  hours  by  rail,  it  will  soon  become  widely  known 
as  a  resort  of  extraordinary  charms, 


CHAPTER  XXVII 
BRAZHr—ALONG  THE  COAST  TO  SANTOS 

THE  extent  of  the  great  country,  the  exact  title  of  which 
is  the  United  States  of  Brazil,  most  of  us  hardly  realize. 
With  fifteen  times  the  area  of  France,  it  covers  more  ground 
than  the  United  States  without  Alaska  and  our  more  recent 
acquisitions,  is  larger  than  the  whole  of  Europe,  and  is  fifth 
in  size  (Percy  Martin  says  third)  among  the  nations  of  the 
world.  While  now  it  contains  barely  22  millions  of  inhabi- 
tants, about  five  to  the  square  mile,  the  great  scientist  and 
explorer  Humboldt  once  prophesied  that  it  would  in  the 
future  be  the  most  thickly  settled  portion  of  the  globe,  since 
from  the  richly  productive  nature  of  the  soil  life  may  there 
be  supported  with  small  exertion. 

Of  a  somewhat  triangular  shape,  Brazil  extends  a  distance 
of  2600  miles  from  north  to  south  and  2700  from  east  to  west. 
Although  in  large  part  under  or  near  the  equator  and  without 
lofty  mountains,  it  yet  has  considerable  elevation,  averaging 
2000  to  3000  feet  over  more  than  half  of  its  territory;  not 
enough  to  occasion  extreme  cold  anywhere,  but  sufficient  to 
induce  a  more  healthful  and  comfortable  climate  in  such  sec- 
tions. Bordering  on  every  South  American  country  except 
Chile  ar»d  Ecuador,  it  is  favorably  situated  for  having  inti- 
mate commercial  relations  with  all,  when  its  settlements  have 
spread  out  in  every  direction,  instead  of  being  chiefly  in 
districts  near  the  coast,  with  a  few  in  the  Amazon  valley. 

HISTORICAL 

Accidentally  discovered  by  Europeans  within  ten  years  after  the 
first  landing  of  Columbus  on  Western  soil,  somq  years  elapsed  be- 
fore it  received  a  permanent  settlement.  Pedro  Alvarez  Cabral,  a 
Portuguese  nobleman,  by  good  fortune  holds  the  honor  of  having  in 
1500  first  beheld  the  most  eastern  shores  of  the  American  continent. 

286 


BRAZIL  287 

Sailing  from  Lisbon  for  the  East  Indies  with  a  fleet  of  vessels, 
Cabral  was  instructed  by  Yasco  da  Gama  who  had  made  the  first 
all-sea  voyage  to  that  region  to  bear  away  to  the  southwest,  in  order 
to  avoid  the  frequent  calms  off  the  coast  of  Guinea,  until  he  should 
reach  34°  south  latitude  when  he  should  turn  east.  While  fol- 
lowing these  directions,  on  the  2d  of  May  Cabral  sighted  a  moun- 
tain which,  as  it  was  Easter  week,  he  called  Pasehoal.  The  next 
day  he  anchored  off  shore  of  the  present  State  of  Bahia,  to  com- 
memorate which  event,  May  3  is  a  Brazilian  national  holiday  and 
the  date  of  the  assembling  of  Congress.  Ten  days  Cabral  remained 
at  anchor  taking  formal  possession  of  the  land,  and  having  some 
communication  with  the  Indians  who  appeared  friendly.  On  the 
news  reaching  Portugal  in  the  fall,  another  expedition  was  at  once 
sent  out  and  the  coast  was  explored  almost  to  La  Plata,  nearly 
2000  miles,  by  Amerigo  Yespueci,  who  was,  however,  disappointed 
by  finding  no  wealth  of  gold  or  silver  and  no  civilized  inhabitants. 
The  only  article  of  immediate  value  seemed  to  be  brazilwood 
which,  furnishing  a  bright  red  dye,  was  in  demand  in  Europe. 
Thus  the  land  was  called  the  Country  of  Brazilwood,  soon  shortened 
to  Brazil. 

The  name  America  later  bestowed  upon  the  land  which  Vespucci 
explored,  and  which  "he  first  declared  to  be  not  a  part  of  the  Orient 
but  a  separate  continent,  was  afterwards  extended  to  include  the 
northern  half.  Thus  it  seems  peculiarly  unfortunate  that  we 
should  arrogate  to  ourselves  the  title  of  being  the  Americans,  our 
only  apology  for  so  doing  being  the  fact  that  we  have  no  other 
name  by  which  we  can  be  called,  a  fact,  however,  which  does  not 
entitle  us  to  forget  that  there  are  others. 

The  first  real  settlement  by  the  Portuguese  was  made  in  Jan- 
uary, 1532,  at  Sao  Vicente  near  the  port  of  Santos,  soon  after  which 
a  second  post  was  established  on  the  high  land  above,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Sao  Paulo.  Subsequently  grants  were  made  by  King  John  III 
of  Captaincies,  twelve  in  number,  each,  one  hundred  fifty  miles  along 
the  coast;  these  beginning  at  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  and  ex- 
tending south  to  the  island  of  Santa  Catarina.  Six  permanent 
colonies  were  founded,  but  the  only  ones  early  amounting  to  much 
were  Pernambuco  and  Sao  Paulo,  later  Bahia  and  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

The  Jesuits,  who  were  prominent  in  the  early  settlements,  gave 
particular  attention  to  Christianizing  the  Indians,  bringing  them  into 
settlements  under  their  jurisdiction  and  instructing  them  both  in 
agriculture  and  in  various  industrial  arts.  Their  labors  were 
chiefly  in  the  States  of  Sao  Paulo  and  Minas.  As  their  system  in- 
terfered with  the  exploitation  of  the  Indians  by  the  Paulistas  these 
attacked  the  Jesuit  settlements,  within  twenty-five  years,  it  is  said, 


288  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

lolling  300,000  of  the  natives,  and  finally  destroying  all  the  Jesuit 
settlements  on  the  tipper  Parana. 

In  1558  a  nobleman,  Mem  da  Sa,  a  soldier,  scholar,  and  able  ad- 
ministrator, as  Governor,  succeeded  in  consolidating  the  govern- 
ment of  the  various  colonies  and  in  establishing  the  Portuguese 
power  on  a  firm  basis,  in  spite  of  difficulties  with  Indians  and  with 
Preneh  settlers.  In  1581  Philip  II  of  Spain  by  obtaining  the  erown 
of  Portugal  became  also  the  ruler  of  Brazil.  During  the  sixty 
years  of  Spanish  domination  the  expansion  of  Brazil  to  the  west  in 
territory  which  had  been  assigned  to  Spain  was  permitted,  as  a 
matter  of  no  importance,  later,  however  to  involve  unforeseen  con- 
sequences. 

In  the  seventeenth  century  there  were  years  of  struggle  against  the 
Dutch  who  first,  in  1623,  captured  Bahia,  to  lose  it  in  1627;  in  1630 
they  captured  Pernambueo  which  they  retained  twenty-five  years, 
at  one  time  having  under  their  control  two-thirds  of  the  population 
and  developed  resources  of  Brazil,  Bahia  and  the  southern  provinces 
alone  remaining  in  the  hands  of  the  Portuguese.  Portugal  having 
meanwhile  recovered  its  independence  from  Spain,  the  Brazilians 
made  continued  efforts  under  the  leadership  of  John  Fernandez  to 
expel  the  Dutch.  At  last  they  succeeded  and  January  26,  1655,  the 
latter  signed  a  capitulation  for  the  surrender  of  Pernambueo  and 
all  other  holdings  in  the  country.  This  struggle  fostered  the  de- 
velopment of  a  national  spirit  among  the  colonies,  while  the  fact 
that  the  coast  was  held  by  the  Dutch  impelled  the  opening  of  land 
routes  of  communication  in  the  interior.  Cattle  ranges  became  nu- 
merous, rumors  of  gold  were  heard,  and  in  1690  the  Morro  Velho, 
one  of  the  great  gold  mines,  of  the  world,  was  discovered. 

The  eighteenth  century  saw  many  conflicts  in  the  south,  in  Rio 
Grande  and  Uruguay,  but  in  1777  peace  was  declared  with  bound- 
aries as  at  present.  During  this  period  occurred  a  literary  de- 
velopment, sir  of  the  leading  Portuguese  poets  appearing,  not  in 
Rio,  but  in  Minas,  twenty  days  on  muleback  from  the  coast.  In 
1807,  John,  Prince  Regent  of  Portugal,  came  over,  fleeing,  with  his 
court  and  with  much  property,  from  Napoleon.  Received  with  en- 
thusiasm, he  opened  to  commerce  the  five  great  ports,  encouraged 
literature,  art,  science,  and  education,  and  the  immigration  of  for- 
eigners, thus  inaugurating  a  movement  which  gradually  transformed 
the  country.  After  the  fall  of  Napoleon,  Prince  John,  returning  in 
1821  to  Portugal,  left  his  son  Pedro  in  charge,  with  the  hint  that  if 
there  was  any  likelihood  of  Brazil  asserting  her  independence,  as 
the  Spanish  provinces  had  done,  he  should  put  the  crown  on  his 
own  head.  This  on  October  12,  1822,  he  did,  being  crowned  Con- 
stitutional Emperor  of  Brazil*  The  separation  from  the  Mother 


BEAZIL  289 

Country  occurred  without  bloodshed  in  Rio,  while  from  the  re- 
maining ports  the  Portuguese  garrisons  were  expelled  with  little 
difficulty.  Troubles  came  afterward.  Pedro,  regardless  of  the 
constitution,  attempted  to  be  a  despot.  After  quelling  a  revolt  in 
the  north,  becoming  involved  in  war  with  Argentina  which  ended 
with  the  independence  of  Uruguay,  and  having  alienated  his  earlier 
supporters,  he  was  compelled  in  1831  to  abdicate  in  favor  of  his 
infant  son.  Stormy  times  continued  so  that  after  a  nine  years* 
regency  Pedro  II,  when  only  fifteen,  was  proclaimed  of  age  and  took 
the  throne.  Nine  years  more  were  required  for  the  pacification 
of  the  whole  country,  when  prosperity  of  all  kinds  followed.  In 
spite  of  the  expensive  war  with  Paraguay  and  other  drawbacks, 
commerce  increased,  general  industry  developed,  and  political  re- 
forms were  instituted.  In  1888  during  the  absence  of  Dom  Pedro  in 
Europe  a  bill  for  the  abolition  of  slavery,  having  passed  both 
Houses  of  Congress,  was  signed  by  Princess  Isabella  as  Regent.  In 
1889  the  old  Emperor,  who  had  returned,  was  summarily  expelled, 
without  even  twenty-four  hours7  notice  to  gather  together  his  be- 
longings; the  diffusion  of  republican  ideas  among  the  soldiery  mak- 
ing the  revolution  possible  without  bloodshed.  A  Provisional  Gov- 
ernment instituted  many  reforms,  organized  the  Provinces  into 
States,  established  universal  suffrage,  the  separation  of  Church  and 
State,  etc.  A  Congress  was  assembled  in  February,  1891,  a  consti- 
tution was -adopted,  and  Deodoro  was  elected  President.  Extrava- 
gance and  insurrections  followed,  then  financial  distress  which 
reached  its  height  in  1900.  Since  that  period  the  country  has  ad- 
vanced rapidly  in  wealth,  population,  and  in  all  other  lines  of  de- 
velopment. 

The  individual  States  are  less  closely  bound  together  than  with  us, 
and  have  greater  power,  being  able  to  fix  export  and  import  taxes 
against  each  other. 

Before  embarking  at  Montevideo  for  Brazil  it  is  wise  to 
procure  a  little  Brazilian  money,  which  is  more  troublesome 
than  any  other.  A  milreis  is  about  33  cents;  but  instead  of 
having  100  cents  in  what  might  be  called  their  dollar  they 
have  1000  reis.  Five  hundred  reis  sounds  like  a  good  deal; 
to  pay  200  or  300  for  car  fare  appears  quite  exorbitant;  but 
remembering  that  100  reis  is  only  3%  cents  it  seems  more 
reasonable. 

The  large  majority  of  tourists  will  embark  at  Montevideo 
for  Santos  in  one  of  the  fine  ships  of  the  Lamport  &  Holt 
Line,  the  Hamburg  American,  or  the  A  boats  of  the  Royal 


290  THE  SOUTH  AMEBICAN  TOUE 

Mail,  all  of  which  are  comfortable,  even  luxurious.    Ten  days 
must  be  allowed,  and  from  twenty  to  thirty  will  be  enjoyed 
in  the  delightful  cities  of  Sao  Paulo  and  Eio  de  Janeiro. 
Brazil  is  an  immense  country,  larger,  we  must  remember,  than 
the  United  States  proper,  and  to  see  Sao  Paulo  and  Bio  only, 
affords  little  more  knowledge  of  the  Bepublie  than  a  glimpse 
of  New  York  and  Boston  gives  of  ours ;  yet  in  a  four  months' 
tour  of  the  continent,  that  is  all  that  can  be  arranged.    The 
traveler  with  more  time  at  his  command  may  find  pleasure 
and  profit  in  visiting  other  portions  of  the  great  Bepublie. 
This  may  be  done,  so  far  as  Southern  Brazil  is  concerned,  in 
two  different  ways.     The  tourist  may  take  at  Montevideo  one 
of  the  boats  of  the  Brazilian  Lloyd  Line,  which  call  at  the 
principal  ports  all  along  the  coast,  and  thus  journeying  in 
complete  comfort,  may  visit  many  prosperous  cities,  where  he 
will  be  astonished  by  the  high  degree  apparent,  of  culture, 
of  business  energy,  and  of  rapid  growth  and  progress.    Or, 
if  preferring  as  long  as  possible  to  avoid  the  sea,  he  may 
proceed  from  Montevideo  to  Bio  all  the  way  by  land,  and 
thus  gain  some  idea  of  the  great  interior  country,  here  so 
different  from  the  vast  Argentine  plain,  with  much  variety 
in  scenery  and  enormous  possibilities  for  future  development. 
This  railway  journey  at  present  requires  four  or  five  days 
to  Sao  Paulo,  more  time  than  by  express  steamer,  and  in- 
volves more  fatigue  and  hardship.    At  last  accounts  there 
were  no  through  sleepers,  the  road  in  places  was  rough  and 
dusty  and  altogether  slow.    The  distance  to  Bio  is  nearly 
2000  miles.    But  on  a  new  road  through  a  rapidly  developing 
country,  quick  changes  and  improvements  may  be  looked  for, 
and  by  the  time  any  of  my  readers  is  ready  for  the  overland 
journey,  it  is  highly  probable  that  it  may  be  made  in  three 
days,  perhaps  in  through  sleepers.    In  one  of  these,   the 
tourist  may  now  set  out  from  Montevideo,  where  details  as  to 
the  comforts  and  duration  of  the  journey  may  best  be  secured. 
The  entire  region  is  scantily  peopled  all  the  way  to  Sao  Paulo 
and  there  is  no  unusual  or  striking  scenery,  except  in  ascend- 
ing to  the  plateau  beyond  Santa  Maria  in  the  state  of  Eio 
Grande  do  Sul,  and  in  the  descent  to  the  town  of  Uniao  in 
the  Iguassu  Valley.    Along  the  route  traveled,  Uruguay  and 
Southern  Brazil  show  a  pretty  country  of  rolling  pasture  laaid 


BEAZIL  291 

to  Passo  Fundo  in  Eio  Grande  do  Sul;  then  comes  a  hilly 
district  covered  with  primeval  forest,  chiefly  pine,  to  Ponta 
Grossa  in  Parana  and  beyond,  and  in  the  State  o£  Sao  Paulo 
highlands,  agricultural  and  pastoral.  A  few  villages  of  from 
500  to  5000  people  are  scattered  along  the  way,  with  two  towns, 
Santa  Maria  and  Ponta  Grossa,  of  ahout  15,000  each.  Within 
a  few  years  it  is  possible  that  a  cross  railroad,  already 
planned,  will  be  built  from  Sao  Francisco  on  the  coast  to 
Uniao,  the  station  above  referred  to  in  the  Iguassu  Valley, 
and  thence  onward  to  the  Iguassu  Falls  and  Asuncion.  When 
this  road  is  finished  it  may  be  desirable  to  visit  Montevideo 
from  Buenos  Aires;  returning  thither  one  might  go  by  rail 
or  steamer  to  Bosario  and  Asuncion,  then  across  to  the  Iguassu 
Falls  and  on  by  rail  to  Uniao  and  thence  proceed  to  Sao  Paulo. 
A  coast  railway  is  now  planned  between  Rio  and  Porto  Alegre 
(963  miles)  by  which  it  is  expected  that  the  journey  will  be 
made  in  25  hours. 

Eio  Grande  do  Sul.  By  a  coasting  steamer,  one  will  first 
visit  the  State  of  Kio  Grande  do  Sul,  the  most  southern  in 
Brazil,  well  away  from  the  tropics,  hence  with  a  temperate 
climate,  much  like  that  of  Georgia,  and  largely  settled  by 
Germans.  For  a  State  with  considerable  seaboard,  the  loca- 
tion of  its  three  chief  cities  on  a  fresh  water  lake  or  lagoon 
may  at  first  appear  curious,  yet  of  course  there  is  a  reason. 
The  coast  being  fiat  and  generally  sandy  the  best  harbor  is 
the  lagoon,  separated  from  the  sea  by  a  sandy  spit  of  land 
only  a  few  miles  wide.  The  entrance,  a  narrow  strait  near 
the  south  end,  has  a  considerable  sand-bar  on  which  engineers 
have  been  at  work  to  secure  a  passage  33  feet  deep,  affording 
ingress  to  large  ocean  steamers.  This  will  greatly  augment 
the  present  important  commerce.  The  larger  steamers  now 
entering  go  only  to  the  city  Bio  Grande  do  Sul  at  the  south- 
ern extremity  of  the  Lag5a  dos  Patos,  Lagoon  of  the  Ducks, 
named  from  one  of  the  tribes  earlier  inhabiting  this  region. 
The  town  has  fine  wide  streets,  many  handsome  buildings,  and 
in  the  Praga  Tamandare,  on  which  stands  the  Post  Office  and 
Public  Library,  one  unique  feature:  the  only  monument  in 
Brazil,  it  is  said,  commemorating  the  freeing  of  the  slaves. 
The  citizens  are  justly  proud  of  their  Library  of  40,000  vol- 
umes, probably  the  best  south  of  Sao  Paulo,  and  of  the  fact 


292  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

that  they  possess  the  oldest  newspaper  in  Brazil  except  the 
Jornal  do  Commercio  of  Rio. 

Porto  Alegre.  As  the  Lagoon  is  150  miles  long  (30  wide), 
it  is  a  long  sail,  12  hours,  to  Porto  Alegre,  the  capital  and 
chief  town  of  the  State  at  the  northern  end.  Three  hours 
from  Rio  Grande  a  call  is  made  at  the  pleasant  town  of 
Pelotas,  beyond  which  there  is  little  to  see  on  account  of  the 
width  of  the  lagoon.  The  beef  industry  in  the  form  of  salt 
beef  factories  is  a  chief  feature  of  the  prosperity  of  Pelotas, 
and  rows  of  beef  strips  hung  up  in  the  sun  to  dry,  with  an 
occasional  factory,  may  be  seen  for  miles  along  the  shore. 
Porto  Alegre,  settled  in  1742  by  colonists  from  the  Azores, 
after  the  Prussian  Revolution  in  1848  received  many  Ger- 
mans, so  that  one-fourth  of  its  100,000  inhabitants  are  now 
of  German  descent.  The  £own  has  some  handsome  public 
buildings,  including  a  City  Hall  with  marble  columns  from 
native  quarries,  and  some  that  are  old  and  ugly.  A  large 
stone  building  near  the  quay  houses  the  public  market,  where 
fruit,  vegetables,  dairy  products,  etc.,  are  sold  at  modest 
prices  in  comparison  with  those  at  Buenos  Aires  and  Rio.  The 
climate  is  healthful,  with  some  freezing  weather  in  the  winter, 
and  snow  in  the  mountainous  section  inland.  Minerals  are 
found  in  the  State,  including  coal,  but  the  chief  wealth  is 
cattle;  not  the  blooded  stock  of  Argentina  but  good  enough 
for  jerked  beef.  Also  agricultural  products  are  important, 
one  settlement,  chiefly  of  Italians,  exporting  annually  a  mil- 
lion dollars'  worth.  A  beautiful  waterfall  400  feet  high  called 
Herval  may  be  visited  a  few  hours  from  Sapyranga  on  the 
railway  between  Porto  Alegre  and  Taquara. 

Going  north  from  Rio  Grande  the  steamers  of  the  Brazilian 
Lloyd  and  the  Costeira  lines  call  in  the  next  State,  Santa 
Catharina,  at  its  capital  FlorianopoUs,  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque of  Brazilian  cities,  on  an  island  of  the  same  name. 
Facing  the  mainland  five  miles  across  the  Strait,  with  a  back- 
ground of  hills  rising  from  1000  to  3000  feet,  it  is  a  charming 
contrast  to  the  more  level  country  previously  visited.  In  the 
principal  plaza  a  stone  monument  with  a  pyramid  of  cannon 
balls  at  the  top  commemorates  those  who,  as  Volunteers,  per- 
ished in  the  Paraguayan  "War.  Though  a  town  of  30,000 
people  it  is  a  quiet  place  where  they  mostly  stay  at  home 


BRAZIL— ALONG-  THE  COAST  TO  SANTOS   293 

evenings  and  go  to  bed  by  ten  o'clock.  A  little  farther  north, 
the  port  of  Sao  Francisco,  called  the  best  south  of  Santos, 
from  the  building  of  the  Iguassu,  Paraguay,  and  other  rail- 
ways is  destined  to  be  of  great  importance. 

Paranagua.  In  the  State  of  Parana,  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful of  Brazil,  detached  in  1858  from  the  State  of  Sao  Paulo, 
a  call  is  made  at  Paranagua,  its  chief  seaport,  from  which 
yerba  mate,  grown  in  the  interior,  is  an  especially  important 
export.  In  this  State  and  the  next,  the  larger  and  pleasanter 
cities  are  on  the  high  land  in  the  interior.  The  low  semi- 
tropical  strip  along  the  shore  is  separated  from  the  plateau 
region  within  by  the  Serra  do  Mar  or  Coast  Eange,  extending 
far  north  very  near  the  shore.  Eivers,  like  the  Iguassu  and 
Parana,  rising  almost  within  sight  of  the  Atlantic,  flow  thou- 
sands of  miles  to  increase  the  waters  of  La  Plata.  The 
capital  city,  Curytiba,  with  50,000  inhabitants,  may  be  vis- 
ited by  rail  from  Paranagua,  a  delightful  four  hours'  journey 
of  60  miles,  among'the  valleys  and  up  the  slopes  of  the  hills 
and  mauntains  of  the  Serra  do  Mar,  the  climb  to  an  altitude 
of  3000  feet  being  made  without  cogs  or  cables,  by  means  of 
high  trestles,  bridges,  and  17  tunnels.  The  journey  is  said 
to  surpass  in  beauty  the  better  known  ride  from  Santos  to  Sao 
Paulo,  presenting  a  variety  of  natural  scenery  seldom  found 
in  so  short  a  trip,  along  with  rich  semi-tropical  vegetation, 
pine  forests,  and  manifestations  of  industrial  development. 
The  State  spends  more  in  proportion  upon  education  than  does 
any  other  in  Brazil.  It  possesses  unlimited  resources  in  cattle, 
agriculture,  mines,  and  forests.  The  pine  tree  of  Brazil,  the 
Araucaria  Irasiliensis,  especially  prominent  in  this  State, 
differs  greatly  in  appearance  from  pines  in  the  United  States. 
They  are  a  striking  feature  of  the  landscape,  growing  with  a 
single  straight  trunk,  sometimes  125  feet,  with  a  diameter  of 
six  feet.  Thus  they  somewhat  resemble  a  palm,  though 
crowned  at  the  top  with  branches  in  shape  like  a  bowl,  bare 
to  the  end,  where  globes  of  dark  crispy  green  leaves  recall  a 
candelabrum.  All  parts  of  the  tree  are  useful;  the  fruit  is 
edible,  the  nut  is  used  to  manufacture  buttons,  and  the  wood, 
for  building  and  other  purposes. 

Beyond  Curytyiba  the  road  goes  on  to  meet  the  through  line 
from  Montevideo  at  Ponta  Grossa.  Not  far  from  the  June- 


294  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tion  is  a  curiosity  called  Vflla  Velha,  old  village,  reminding  of 
the  Garden  of  the  Gods,  but  even  more  remarkable.  The 
reddish  rocks  of  sandstone  have  had  part  of  their  formation 
cut  away  by  time  and  water,  leaving  rocks  which  resemble 
houses,  walk,  or  ruins,  some,  300  feet  high  like  castles  and 
towers,  with  low  bushes  growing  among  them,  the  whole 
having  the  appearance  of  an  abandoned  city.  Curytiba,  like 
Sao  Paulo,  though  much  smaller,  is  a  wide  awake,  modern 
city  with  handsome  buildings,  hotels,  etc.,  and  a  boarding  and 
day  school  conducted  by  two  American  ladies.  An  important 
industry  is  the  preparation  of  yerba  mate  for  market,  20 
large  mills  existing  for  this  purpose  in  various  parts  of  the 
state.  The  mate  profits  sometimes  reach  100  per  cent 

In  the  vicinity  of  Antonina,  a  pretty  town  on  the  same  bay 
as  Paranagua,  is  a  curiosity  called  sambaquys,  mounds,  71  in 
number,  the  work  of  a  pre-historic  race  containing  skeletons, 
pieces  of  pottery  and  of  polished  stone  of  varying  aspect,  ap- 
parently indicating  a  progress  in  culture  through  generations. 
Unfortunately  many  of  these  remains  have  been  put  to  the 
prosaic  use  of  making  lime,  but  some  near  Lagoa  Santa  still 
await  the  archaeologist  and  the  ethnologist. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 
SANTOS  AND  SAO  PAULO 

THE  State  of  Sao  Paulo,  called  the  most  progressive,  if  not 
the  most  important  in  Brazil,  has  for  its  chief  seaport  the 
city  of  Santos,  to  which  the  majority  of  tourists  will  have 
come  hy  express  steamer  from  Montevideo.  Every  ship  calls 
at  Santos,  even  coming  up  to  the  docks,  so  that  all  must  see 
this  city.  The  only  question  is  whether  or  not  to  go  up  to 
Sao  Paulo,  distant  two  hours  by  rail.  This  should  be  no 
question.  Every  one  must  go  if  only  for  the  ride  and  a 
glimpse  of  this  prosperous  and  busy  capital,  returning  the 
same  afternoon.  Fare  one  way  12$900.  Should  the  steam- 
er's schedule  not  permit  of  this  excursion,  one  should  still  go, 
.  and  either  wait  over  until  the  next  steamer,  a  ticket  on  the 
Lamport  and  Holt  serving  also  on  the  Royal  Mail,  or  proceed 
from  Sao  Paulo  by  rail  to  Bio,  fare  54$500.  Or  if  preferred, 
one  may  continue  in  the  same  steamer  to  Bio,  thence  return 
later  by  rail  to  Sao  Paulo,  and  embark  at  Santos  on  his  home- 
ward journey,  an  arrangement  which  affords  certain  advan- 
tages. In  this  way  one  has  the  great  pleasure  of  twice  enter- 
ing the  magnificent  harbor  of  Rio,  which  it  were  a  pity  to 
miss  altogether.  On  the  other  hand,  journeying  by  rail  from 
Sao  Paulo  one  may,  if  on  the  right  train,  enjoy  a  wonderful 
view  of  the  city  and  harbor  while  descending  from  the  plateau 
above  down  to  sea  level.  But  as  somewhat  similar  views  may 
be  had  from  Corcovado,  Tijuea,  and  the  road  to  Petropolis, 
this  is  less  important  and  desirable  than  the  view  of  Bio  from 
the  sea,  peculiarly  entrancing  at  early  dawn.  To  stay  over 
from  one  weekly  steamer  to  the  next  is  not  too  much  if  one 
cares  to  visit  a  coffee  plantation  and  see  a  little  of  the  coun- 
try; a  day  or  two  is  better  than  nothing. 

The  name  of  Sao  Paulo,  the  greatest  coffee-producing  region 
of  the  world,  is  less  familiar  to  people  generally  than  that  of 
its  seaport,  Santos,  as  the  name  Santos  is  attached  to  a  very 

295 


296  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

small  portion  of  the  coffee  thence  dispatched  to  all  quarters 
of  the  globe.  As  almost  every  one  occasionally  or  regularly 
drinks  coffee,  under  the  name  of  Java,  Mocha,  or  another, 
which  lias  'been  grown  in  Sao  Paulo,  there  is  an  especial  inter- 
est in  learning  something  of  the  country.  Sao  Paulo  is  an 
active  flourishing  State,  not  at  all  in  accordance  with  the 
general  idea  of  Brazil,  chiefly  associated  with  the  hot  Amazon 
basin;  it  is  an  upland  temperate  region  of  75,000  square 
miles,  a  trifle  larger  than  the  whole  of  New  England  with 
New  Jersey  added, 

Brazil,  like  most  other  tropical  lands,  is  fortunate  in  having 
a  fair  portion  of  her  surface  considerably  elevated  above  the 
sea,  and  thus  with  an  agreeable  climate  of  quite  temperate 
character*  The  Coast  Range,  which  includes  the  Serra  do 
Mar  extending  from  Espirito  Santo  to  Santa  Catharina  is 
indeed  a  godsend  to  the  country,  endowing  it,  through  regions 
of  great  extent,  with  wonderful  scenic  beauty,  besides  mod- 
ifying the  climate ;  while  in  Sao  Paulo  and  Minas  Geraes,  a 
parallel  range  with  two  peaks^  Itapeva  and  Marins,  7000  and 
8000  feet,  confers  additional  advantage.  Between  these  two 
ranges,  as  also  west  of  the  second,  the  land  is  high,  the  low- 
land being  confined  to  a  narrow  strip  along  the  coast. 
Unlimited  water  power,  one  estimate  is  2,000,000  horsepower, 
now  unexploited,  is  a  valuable  asset  of  the  State,-  for  the 
various  tributaries  of  the  Parana  have  a  number  of  large 
cataracts  both  useful  and  beautiful,  the  Itapura  Fall  1500  feet 
wide  and  40  high,  the  Avanhandava  50  feet  high,  and  others. 
In  spite  of  this  the  rivers  in  considerable  stretches  are  navi- 
gable. Besides  the  cultivation  of  coffee  for  which  the  State  is 
pre-eminent,  sugar,  cotton,  rice,  and  tobacco,  fruit  and  cereals 
are,  or  soon  will  be,  important  productions. 

Santos.  The  port  of  Santos  (Hotels,  Grande,  Washington, 
Internaeional),  called  one  of  the  best  and  most  important  of 
the  world,  receives  annually  more  than  1500  steamers  besides 
sailing  vessels.  The  largest  ocean  liners  anchor  alongside  the 
quay,  which  extends  from  the  Sao  Paulo  Railway  Station  two 
miles  down  along  the  front  of  the  town.  The  fine  docks  were 
built  by  a  local  company,  which  in  1892  began  the  construc- 
tion, on  a  base  from  10  to  20  feet  thick,  of  a  huge  sea  waU  of 
granite  rising  5  feet  above  high  water  mark.  Hydraulic 


SANTOS  297 

and  other  machinery  is  provided  to  receive  and  discharge 
freight,  and  commerce  has  grown  rapidly  until,  in  1911,  it 
amounted  to  $160,000,000  exports  and  $65,000,000  imports. 
Santos  is  an  ancient  town  founded  in  1544  or  earlier  by 
Braz  Cubas.  A  hospital  established  by  this  gentleman,  the 
first  charitable  institution  in  Brazil,  was  called  Todos  os 
Santos,  from  which  the  name  Santos  was  gradually  used  to 
designate  the  town.  After  his  death  at  an  advanced  age, 
Braz  Cubas  was  buried  in  the  chapel  of  the  hospital.  Its 
early  origin  might  seem  to  indicate  that  the  place  was  par- 
ticularly unhealthy,  and  it  has  in  fact  had  a  bad  reputation 
as  a  seat  of  yellow  fever;  but  for  some  years  now  it  has  been 
'  as  healthful  as  need  be.  The  State  and  City  authorities, 
awaking  to  the  importance  of  such  matters,  accomplished  the 
sanitation  of  the  port  by  means  of  a  perfect  system  of  drain- 
age and  a  good  water  supply. 

Though  the  fact  is  not  apparent,  Santos,  a  city  of  70,000 
people,  is  situated,  3  miles  from  the  ocean,  on  an  island,  the 
northeast  shore  of  Sao  Vicente;  but  so  close  is  the  island  to 
the  mainland  that  in  the  dry  season  when  the  river  has  no 
water  it  becomes  a  peninsula.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river-like  channel  by  which  ships  enter  the  harbor,  is  a  larger 
island,  Santo  Amaro.  It  is  all  very  pretty,  as  luxuriantly 
clad  hills  slope  almost  to  the  water's  edge.  At  the  southwest 
end  of  the  island,  Sao  Vicente,  is  the  old  town  of  that  name, 
an  hour  by  rail  from  Santos.  Toward  the  south  end  are  two 
popular  summer  resorts  where  some  of  the  Santos  people, 
especially  the  foreigners,  live  all  the  year  around,  while  from 
the  interior  many  come  down  for  the  summer.  At  the  en- 
trance of  the  channel  called  Guaruja,  the  fortress  of  Barra 
Grande  on  the  east  guards  the  harbor,  while  opposite  is  the 
suburb  of  Barra  with  charming  country  homes.  Half  way 
up  the  channel  the  docks  give  evidence  of  commercial  activity. 
Opposite  the  city  of  Santos  on  the  island  Santo  .Amaro,  be- 
yond the  hills  is  the  seashore  resort  Guaruja,  called  the  most 
picturesque  in  South  America,  on  a  rounded  knoll  overlooking 
the  ocean,  among  higher  hills  clothed  with  virgin  forest. 
This  fashionable  resort  which  is  reached  by  means,  first,  of  a 
short  sail  across  the  channel,  then  of  a  half  hour's  railway 
ride,  not  so  grand  or  expensive  as  Mar  del  Plata,  has  natural 


298  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

advantages  far  greater.  Near  the  white  sandy  shore  are 
pretty  streets  lined  with,  chalets  and  Queen  Anne  cottages,  a 
casino,  a  large  hotel  with  gardens,  and  luxuriant  natural 
vegetation;  accommodations  may  be  procured  here  at  reason- 
able prices,  except  during  the  season,  when  people  from  all 
over  Brazil  make  the  place  full  to  overflowing. 

At  Santos  every  one  goes  ashore  if  only  for  the  few  hours 
that  all  ships  tarry.  The  business  streets  are  close  by  and  the 
pretty  central  plaza  but  a  short  distance.  This  old  part  of 
the  city  between  the  docks  and  the  15th  of  November  street 
preserves  the  narrow  old-fashioned  alleys,  we  should  call 
them,  of  the  colonial  period,  by  no  means  unpleasant  on  a  hot 
day.  Although  warm,  it  is  usual  to  see  persons  hurrying 
about,  for  business  is  done  between  ten  and  f onr,  a  shorter  day 
than  in  most  Brazilian  cities;  here  imperative,  as  many  busi- 
ness men  daily  come  in  the  morning  from  Sao  Paulo,  return- 
ing by  the  afternoon  train.  A  Brazilian  writer  whose  trans- 
lator's English  is  frequently  amusing  says,  "People  do  not 
run,  they  fly.  The  sweat  dampens  the  collars,  the  converses 
are  resumed  to  the  exchange  of  monosyllables,  as  it  is  neces- 
sary that  everything  be  finished  before  the  last  train  starts," 
Away  from  the  business  section  are  broader  streets  and  fine 
houses,  with  a  hotel  called  excellent  Two  long  wide  avenues, 
Nebia  and  Anna  Costa,  crossed  by  streets  which  are  gradually 
being  built  up,  extend  towards  the  sea.  Street  ears  run 
in  this  and  other  directions,  and  if  time  permits  it  is  a  pleas- 
ant ride  to  a  pretty  seashore  suburb  with  rolling  surf  and 
attractive  dwellings  at  the  end  of  the  route. 

But  now  we  must  climb  the  Cubatao  Hill,  we  might  even 
say  mountain,  to  the  capital  city,  by  the  Sao  Paulo  Railway. 
An  elevation  of  3000  feet  is  gained  in  a  very  short  distance, 
as  the  Serra  do  Mar  is  indeed  close  to  the  shore.  The  height 
seems  too  steep  to  climb  with  any  ordinary  means,  and  in  fact 
it  is.  Extraordinary  means  are  employed,  inclined  planes  on 
a  much  larger  scale  than  we  have  seen  before,  of  novel  con- 
struction and  carrying  regular  railway  coaches.  It  is  a 
strange  and  wonderful  ride  through  tropical  forests,  along 
the  side  of  steep  inclines  of  great  picturesque  beauty.  Often 
when  the  region  is  shrouded  in  mist  a  rift  therein,  disclosing 
a  tremendous  chasm  below,  has  a  rather  startling  effect. 


SANTOS  AND  SAO  PAULO  299 

This  railway  is  ranked  by  experienced  British  engineers 
among  the  great  mechanical  achievements  of  the  world,  such 
as  the  Brooklyn  and  Forth  bridges.  Due  to  the  initiative  of 
Visconde  de  Maua,  it  makes  an  ascent  of  2600  feet  in  the  short 
distance  of  seven  miles.  Beginning  only  15  feet  above  the 
sea  five  inclined  planes  with  a  grade  of  eight  per  cent,  each 
about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  long,  serve  for  the  rapid  climb. 
Four  intermediate  levels  of  about  600  feet  each  separate  the 
planes;  a  bankhead  at  the  top  is  a  little  longer.  Above  each 
plane  is  a  stationary  engine  to  run  the  cables,  and  to  grip 
these  a  small  special  engine  is  attached  to  each  car.  The 
winding  engines  for  the  cables  are  built  under  the  track, 
partly  underground,  receiving  light  from  the  side.  One  i$ 
surprised  to  see  two  double  roads,  but  the  first  proving  in- 
sufficient for  the  freight  traffic,  soon  after  1895  a  new  incline 
was  begun,  just  above  on  the  same  slope,  with  improved  tech- 
nical arrangements.  The  tracks  are  very  curious.  On  the 
inclines  each  double  track  has  but  three  rails  for  both  up  and 
down,  these  being  1.6  meters  distant  one  from  another,  the 
middle  rail  serving  for  both  the  ascending  and  the  descending 
cars,  which  obviously  do  not  meet  on  the  inclines,  but  may  on 
the  intermediate  levels.  On  each  side,  in  the  center  of  the 
space  between  the  middle  and  the  outside  rails,  the  pulleys  are 
fixed  which  carry  the  cable.  This  is  an  endless  steel  wire  of 
enormous  strength,  run  by  a  1000  horsepower  engine,  and 
capable  of  carrying  6  freight  or  3  passenger  cars  at  a  time. 
The  entire  capacity  of  the  cables  is  17,500  tons  daily,  or  under 
pressure  22,000  tons.  These  remarkable  engineering  works 
as  greatly  deserve  the  attention  of  the  tourist  as  the  scenery. 
In  this  short  section  there  are  16  viaducts,  15  tunnels,  and 
two  miles  of  retaining  wall,  with  a  volume  of  masonry  exceed- 
ing 80,000  cubic  meters.  For  one  cutting  over  150  feet  deep, 
300,000  cubic  meters  of  earth  was  removed.  The  Grota 
Funda  viaduct  is  334  feet  long  and  nearly  150  feet  high  in 
the  center.  Two  viaducts  have  masonry  arches,  the  rest  steel. 
A  difficult  problem  was  the  drainage,  and  many  surface  drains 
of  the  extensive  system  may  be  observed  in  passing.  The 
road,  though  but  100  miles  long,  extending  from  Santos  to 
Judiahy  and  passing  Sao  Paulo  half  way  is  one  of  the  richest 
in  the  world.  In  spite  of  the  enormous  expense  involved  in 


300  THE  SOUTH"  AMERICAN  TOUE 

its  unusual  construction,  from  the  fact  that  it  carries  the 
most  freight  and  charges  the  highest  prices,  it  yields  the 
largest  dividends  of  any  road  in  Brazil,  sometimes  fifty  per 
cent.  Its  heaviest  earnings  come  from  the  transport  of 
coffee,  as  in  the  section  served  by  this  line  there  are  perhaps 
15,000  plantations  with  500  million  coffee  trees.  From  these 
the  road  carries  7  of  the  10  million  bags  annually  exported, 
besides  ordinary  freight  transportation.  The  passenger 
traffic  hardly  pays,  or  greatly  increases  in  volume,  as  the 
two  hours'  ride  from  Sao  Paulo  to  Santos  is  more  than  most 
men  care  to  take  daily. 

SAO  PAULO 
HOTELS.    The  Sportsman,  the  Grand,  the  Majestic,  the  Albion. 

After  climbing  the  mountain  side,  an  hour  more  over  a 
rolling  country  brings  one  to  the  station  called  Luz,  in  the 
city  of  Sao  Paulo,  said  to  be  the  largest  and  most  costly  rail- 
way station  in  South  America,  and  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
world.  The  tracks  are  arranged  below  the  street  level,  hence 
there  are  no  grade  crossings.  This  city,  the  second  in  Brazil, 
and  with  its  about  400,000  inhabitants  taking  third  position 
among  the  cities  of  South  America,  will  be  a  surprise  to 
most  travelers.  Located  on  the  Tropic  of  Capricorn,  its  ele- 
vation gives  it  a  healthful  climate  which  in  combination  with 
other  advantages  has  produced  men  awake  to  the  spirit  of 
progress  and  eager  to  develop  the  astonishing  resources  of  this 
richly  endowed  State.  The  city  is  not  only  the  capital  and  the 
seat  of  State  Government,  but  a  notable  center  of  education 
and  industry,  and  the  home  of  many  men  of  great  wealth. 
It  is  an  ancient  city,  going  back  to  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth 
century,  1554,  its  name  Sao  Paulo,  which  had  been  pre- 
viously applied  to  a  Jesuit  college  here,  being  transferred 
to  the  new  settlement  by  the  Governor  General  of  Brazil, 
Mem  de  Sa.  Though  of  greater  age  than  any  city  in  our 
own  country,  for  three  centuries  it  made  small  progress. 
In  1872  it  was  a  town  of  26,557  people.  But  within  the  last 
forty  years  it  has  shown  amazing  growth,  which  few  of  our 
cities  can  parallel,  an  increase  of  nearly  fifteen  fold.  Al- 
though on  the  edge  of  the  tropics,  from  its  elevation  of  3000 


LUZ    STATION",    SAO    PAULO 


MUNICIPAL    THEATRE 


SAO  PAULO  301 

feet,  it  has  a  climate  like  that  of  Southern  Europe.  Prom 
the  neighboring  mountains  it  receives  an  excellent  water 
supply,  while  its  site  on  rolling  ground  affords  excellent 
drainage  facilities  and  in  places  a  splendid  outlook. 

The  hotel  accommodations  are  unfortunately  inadequate 
for  the  rapid  development  and  business  of  the  city.  They 
are  fairly  comfortable,  though  apt  to  be  over-crowded.  It  is 
well  if  possible  to  engage  a  room  in  advance.  The  Sports- 
man's  Hotel  on  the  rua  Sao  Bento  is  by  some  called  the  best; 
the  Grand,  the  Albion,  and  the  Majestic  are  not  far  distant. 
The  prices  are  all  about  the  same,  from  $3.50  to  $5.00  a  day, 
American  plan.  A  new  hotel  is  now  being  constructed,  large 
and  modern.  The  main  streets  of  the  business  center, 
naturally  the  old  part  of  the  town,  are  rather  narrow  and 
not  all  checkerboard  fashion  as  in  most  of  the  cities  visited. 
This,  no  doubt,  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  surface  is  irregular, 
with  hills  and  valleys  such  that  in  one  place  a  viaduct  800 
feet  long  and  50  wide,  called  the  Viaducto  CM,  forms  a 
curious  street  leading  from  the  rua  Direita  over  an  old  part 
of  the  town,  once  a  tea  garden,  to  a  hill  in  the  newer  section, 
where  the  handsome  Municipal  Theater  is  situated.  This 
imposing  edifice,  with  streets  on  all  sides,  recently  erected  at 
a  cost  of  a  million  dollars,  compares  with  the  best  in  Europe 
and  surpasses  any  in  the  United  States.  The  seating  capacity 
is  a  trifle  less  than  that  of  the  Paris  Opera  House.  The 
seats  for  the  orchestra  are,  according  to  the  Wagner  system, 
placed  below  the  general  floor  level. 

The  commercial  center  of  the  city,  not  far  from  the  hotels 
mentioned,  is  a  triangular  plaza  called  Tiradentes.  The  rua 
Sao  Bento,  the  Quinze  de  Novembro,  and  the  Direita  are  th§ 
principal  shopping  and  business  streets.  The  Largo  de 
Palado  is  a  square  near  by,  on  which  is  the  fine  Palace  of 
Congress;  the  handsome  Agricultural  Building  of  the  Ger- 
man style;  the  Treasury,  covering  700  square  meters,  the 
work  of  a  Brazilian  architect,  Bamos  Azavedo;  and  the 
Judiciary  Building  of  the  Roman  Doric  order.  Other  note- 
worthy buildings  are  the  Post  Office,  the  Exchange,  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce,  and  the  Public  Library.  Some  of 
the  finest  streets  are  the  Avenidas  Tiradentes,  and  the  Bangel 
Bestana  passing  the  Largo  de  Concordia  with  the  always 


302  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

interesting  Market  Place,  the  ruas  da  Liberdade,  Santo 
Amaro,  da  Consolagao.  The  last  three  lead  to  the  splendid 
Avenue  Paulista,  with  shaded  parkway  along  the  center,  the 
finest  boulevard  of  the  capital,  on  which  are  many  of  the 
handsomest  residences.  Of  course  the  city  has  electric  lights 
and  cars,  and  many  miles  of  fine  asphalt  pavements,  though 
in  the  outskirts,  on  account  of  the  city's  rapid  growth,  there 
may  be  a  few  streets  yet  unpaved,  which  should  be  avoided. 
Automobiles  and  fine  carriages  are  numerous,  and  delightful 
drives  may  be  taken  to  see  the  fine  public  buildings  and  the 
multitude  of  charming  and  splendid  private  residences. 
From  a  residential  point  of  view  few  more  attractive  places 
will  be  found  anywhere.  The  many  churches  one  writer 
calls  magnificent,  another  says  only  the  modern  ones  are  of 
artistic  merit.  The  Cathedral,  the  churches  of  Sao  Pedro, 
$.  Oongalo,  and  Bemedios  are  among  the  most  important. 

Many  of  the  fine  buildings  of  the  city  are  devoted  to  educa- 
tional purposes.  The  city  takes  especial  pride  in  its  Poly- 
technic School,  said  to  be  the  best  in  Brazil,  in  view  of  its 
fine  laboratories,  the  practical  character  of  the  studies,  and 
its  imposing  edifice  opened  in  1894.  Instruction  is  given  in 
architecture  and  in  civil,  industrial,  agricultural,  mechanical, 
and  electric  engineering.  Also  it  has  a  School  of  Chemistry, 
•with  courses  in  dentistry  and  obstetrics.  The  Government 
maintains  a  Law  School  having  a  five  years7  course.  Its 
library  of  50,000  volumes  is  free  to  the  public.  About  the 
same  size  is  the  general  Public  Library.  The  fine  large 
Normal  School,  overlooking  the  Pra§a  da  Republica,  occupies 
a  whole  square  near  the  center  of  the  city.  With  a  library 
of  12,000  volumes,  with  laboratories,  museums,  rooms  for 
manual  labor,  gymnastics,  and  military  exercises,  it  is  said  to 
be  equal  in  equipment  and  installation  to  any  in  America. 
A  kindergarten,  equal  to  the  best  in  any  part  of  the  world, 
occupies  an  annex.  A  Commercial  School  for  training  book- 
keepers and  tradesmen,  is  included  in  the  educational  system. 
A  spacious  building  east  of  the  Jardim  Publico  is  occupied 
by  the  Lyceum  of  Arts  and  Trades,  where  various  trades  are 
taught,  such  as  tailoring,  carpentery,  printing,  and  many 
others.  This  institution,  with  towards  1000  pupils,  is  sup- 


'. ' ''  /; ,(;  'i-4"- '     •'/'''  "v< '  <«r '' '  i  '  f'*'  ''  *'  '" 

tffAt."^'  \    '    >>' ,     'A,-.'<~    -jfl*  -  A     •    '     -    ' 


TPIRANGA  MUSEUM 


HOTEL  OP  IMMIGRANTS,  SAO  PAULO 


SAO  PAULO  303 

ported  by  a  private  association.  Especially  noteworthy  by 
Americans  is  the  famous  Mackenzie  College,  opened  in  1892 
on  the  corner  of  rua  de  Sao  Joao  and  Ypiranga.  Schools 
of  lower  grades  were  established  in  1870  by  Presby- 
terians, gradually  becoming  a  complete  graded  system  from 
kindergarten  to  high,  school.  On  this  model  the  government 
schools  were  largely  planned  and  on  the  floor  of  the  Brazilian 
Congress  the  school  system  was  said  to  have  been  the  greatest 
factor  in  their  educational  development  of  the  last  twenty 
years.  The  college  was  the  first  of  American  fashion  in 
Brazil.  Coeducation  is  followed,  though  the  girls  live  else- 
where. The  Chamberlain  Dormitory  was  erected  in  1901  for 
the  boys.  The  President  of  the  College  is  Dr.  H.  M.  Lane, 
and  the  institution  is  affiliated  with  the  University  of  the 
State  of  New  York 

One  of  the  most  important  points  of  interest  in  Sao  Paulo, 
though  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  at  the  same  time  a  monu- 
ment and  an  institution  of  learning,  is  the  Ypiranga,  a  splen- 
did edifice  erected  in  1885  on  the  spot  where,  in  1822,  the 
Independence  of  Brazil  was  proclaimed.  As  it  is  regarded 
as  one  of  the  finest  structures  in  Brazil,  the  name  of  the  artist, 
Caviliere  Tomaso  G.  Bezzi,  is  given.  The  building,  which 
fronts  on  a  broad  open  space,  houses  a  museum  with  treas- 
ures of  historical  and  scientific  interest,  many  curious  and 
valuable  relics,  and  fine  paintings  by  Brazilian  artists.  The 
beautiful  Park,  the  Jardim  Pullico  or  Jardim  da  Luz,  will 
naturally  be  visited  by  every  one.  Directly  opposite  the  Luz 
Station,  created  by  Royal  Charter  in  1790,  it  was  first  opened 
in  1825.  Adorned  with  a  profusion  of  flowers,  trees,  a  pretty 
lake,  and  other  decorations,  it  is  a  delightful  resort  for  resi- 
dent and  stranger. 

Well  worthy  of  a  visit  is  the  Hotel  of  Immigrants,  a  large 
establishment  fitted  up  in  the  most  sanitary  and  appropriate 
manner.  Thousands  of  families  from  Europe  are  here  wel- 
comed annually,  and  entertained  free  of  charge  for  a  short 
period.  A  Government  agent  speaking  their  language  meets 
the  strangers  on  their  arrival  in  Santos,  and  escorts  them 
to  this  Hotel.  Later  they  receive  free  transportation  to 
wherever  in  the  State  they  desire  to  go,  and  their  interests  are 


304  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

looked  after  by  a  board.  This  State  is  the  only  one  with  its 
own  especial  department  of  immigration  and  active  propa- 
ganda. 

High-grade  institations  of  a  sanitary  character  are  numer- 
ous in  the  city,  as  a  Bacteriological,  a  Sero-therapie,  a  Pasteur, 
and  various  other  Institutes.  Fine  large  hospitals  for  general 
and  special  diseases,  and  for  colonists  of  various  nationalities, 
will  be  observed  in  an  extended  drive. 

Coffee.  If  time  permits,  the  tourist  will  surely  enjoy  a 
visit  to  a  great  coffee  plantation.  There  are  none  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  Sao  Paulo,  but  it  is  a  pleasant  journey 
of  80  miles  to  the  city  of  Campinas,  in  the  vicinity  of  which 
are  fazendas  galore.  This  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most 
flourishing  towns  of  the  State,  with  a  population  of  about 
50,000,  modern  and  prosperous,  well  paved  and  lighted,  with 
good  schools  and  a  fine  large  Cathedral. 

The  State  of  Sao  Paulo  now  furnishes  one-fourth  of  the 
world's  coffee  supply  and  this  section  is  one  of  the  largest 
producing  districts  in  Brazil.  Near  Campinas,  the  great 
fazenda  of  Baron  Geraldo  de  Rezende  will  charm  the  favored 
visitor.  A  magnificent  house  and  gardens,  with  a  splendid 
collection  of  rare  orchids  and  800  varieties  of  roses,  are  a  not 
unnatural  possession  of  the  owner  of  half  a  million  coffee 
trees.  A  much  vaster  estate  but  too  remote  for  many  trav- 
elers to  inspect  is  that  of  the  coffee  Mng  of  the  world,  Col. 
Francisco  Schmidt,  Coming  as  a  colonist  to  this  state  he 
has  achieved  a  success  of  which  one  might  well  be  proud. 
Of  the  700,000,000  trees  in  the  State,  Col.  Schmidt  owns  more 
than  one  per  eent>  7%  million.  On  the  various  planta- 
tions live  8000  people,  contented  and  prosperous;  a  school 
is  provided  for  each  village.  The  soil  and  climate  of  Sao 
Paulo  are  so  well  adapted  to  this  industry  that  the  crop  is 
several  times  as  heavy  to  the  acre  as  in  most  other  coffee 
growing  countries.  A  family  of  three  or  four  persons  can 
take  eare  of  10,000  trees  and  by  cultivating  other  agricultural 
products  at  the  same  time  could  live  on  the  proceeds. 

In  1817  the  first  shipment  of  coffee  was  made  from  Brazil, 
about  6000  bags;  in  1906,  13  million  bags  were  exported, 
10  million  being  the  average.  The  consumption  of  coffee  in 
recent  years  has  wonderfully  increased.  Though  generally 


COFFEE    FAZENDA 


COFFEE   TREE 


SAO  PAULO  305 

considered  less  injurious  than  tea,  both,  should  be  utterly 
tabooed  to  children  and  young  people.  To  persons  of  mature 
years  who  have  not  taken  it  earlier  to  their  injury,  its  mod- 
erate use  may  not  be  harmful,  in  some  cases  may  even  be 
beneficial.  In  humid  climates  it  seems  to  be  used  freely  with 
less  ill  effects  than  in  a  dry  and  bracing  air,  where  habitual 
stimulant  of  any  sort  may  be  undesirable. 

Although  famed  for  its  coffee,  Sao  •  Paulo  can  produce 
almost  anything  else:  rice,  sugar,  cotton,  tobacco,  tea,  cocoa, 
wheat,  com,  sweet  potatoes,  other  vegetables,  and  fodder 
plants  are  among  its  products.  Of  these,  the  marmallade  de 
cavallo,  is  called  the  most  nutritious  of  fodder  plants  known. 

From  Sao  Paulo  to  Rio  the  journey  may  be  made  by  land 
or  sea.  If  going  by  rail,  one  may  be  advised  to  take  the 
night  train,  on  the  ground  that  there  is  nothing  to  see,  that 
it  will  be  dusty,  and  that  the  ride  of  12  hours  is  a  long  and 
fatiguing  day's  journey;  the  distance  is  about  310  miles. 
Also  a  day  is  thus  gained  to  spend  either  at  Sao  Paulo  or 
Bio.  On  the  other  hand,  some  persons  who  have  made  the 
trip  by  daylight  speak  of  it  with  enthusiasm.  In  the  early 
morning  one  passes  on  gentle  slopes  fields  of  glossy  green 
coffee  trees,  groves  of  oranges,  jungles  of  palms  and  bananas, 
with  enormous  clumps  of  feathery  bamboo,  and  little  towns 
on  the  hillsides.  At  the  stations  are  women  selling  fruit,  and 
negro  boys  with  trays  of  tiny  cups  of  black  coffee,  hot  and 
sweetened.  After  a  while  an  alluring  stream  is  passed,  with 
pleasant  towns.  Midday  is  hot  and  dusty.  Farther  on  are 
reddish  grassy  slopes  and  in  climbing  the  wooded  ridge  many 
cattle  may  be  visible.  Higher  ascends  the  train,  the  valleys 
are  blue  below:  delightful  scenes  are  on  every  hand,  moun- 
tains abrupt  and  fantastic  appear.  Yet  ever  there  is  soft 
rich  verdure ;  at  last  comes  swift  descent  towards  a  panorama 
of  wonderful  loveliness.  At  dusk  the  train  rolls  into  Bio, 
where,  says  the  Involuntary  Chaperone,  "All  the  dreams  come 
true." 


CHAPTER  XXIX 
RIO  DE  JANEIRO— BAY  AKD  CITY 

NEARLY  all  tourists,  whether  from  the  north  or  south,  will 
arrive  at  Hio  by  water.  Leaving  Santos  in  the  late  after- 
noon, on  a  fairly  swift  steamer,  one  is  liable,  unless  an  early 
riser,  to  find  the  ship  at  anchor  in  the  harbor  when  he  comes 
on  deck  in  the  morning.  But  if  never  at  other  times  eager 
to  see  the  sun  rise,  or  impatient  to  behold  beauties  which  are 
permanent  in  character,  let  every  one  who  has  the  smallest 
appreciation  of  glorious  scenery  be  awake  to  enjoy  the 
entrance  into  the  harbor  of  Bio,  which  to  many  will  be  the 
culminating  joy  of  the  whole  delightful  journey.  With  the 
good  fortune  to  approach  at  daybreak  under  propitious  skies 
this  magnificent  harbor,  unrivaled  upon  the  globe,  one  will 
rejoice  in  a  vision  of  splendor  surpassing  his  highest  con- 
ceptions of  beauty,  forever  to  be  treasured  among  his  choicest 
memories.  One  who  is  loath  to  lose  his  early  morning  nap 
may  fancy  that  to  view  the  spectacle  towards  sunset  as  one 
sails  away  homeward  will  answer  just  as  well ;  but  such  is  not 
the  case.  It  is  the  morning  light  on  the  triple  range  of  hills 
behind  the  city,  which  lies  west  of  the  entrance  to  the  bay, 
that  enhances  the  ever  charming  scene  to  a  spectacle  of 
unparalleled  loveliness. 

From  a  distance,  if  heaven  send  no  veil  of  mist,  will  be 
seen  on  the  landward  side  a  row  of  incomparable  titans 
guarding  the  city;  islands  also  appear:  on  the  right,  a  large 
flat  rock,  Hha  Raza>  bears  a  lighthouse  with  double  electric 
lights,  red  and  blue,  and  if  one  is  coming  from  the  north, 
the  Itaypu  Point  is  rounded  with  the  pretty  little  Father  and 
Mother  Islands  near;  approaching  from  Santos  these  appear 
farther  away  at  the  right.  The  lofty  hills  or  mountains  at 
the  left  attract  the  most  attention.  In  the  distant  blue  or 

306 


EIO  DE  JANEIEO  307 

purple,  a  gray  bald  head  called  Gavea  is  noticeable,  a  famous 
landmark  of  the  harbor,  in  the  profile  of  which  some  fancy 
a  resemblance  to  "Washington.  While  still  outside  the  harbor 
we  see  other  summits,  the  less  known  and  less  sharp  peak  of 
Andarahy,  more  distant,  Tijuea  and  the  Organ  Mts.,  and 
nearer,  at  the  right  of  Gavea,  the  world  famed  Corcovado 
Needle,  with  the  city  at  its  foot,  or  perhaps  we  should  say 
head,  since  the  point  of  the  needle,  the  smaller  end,  is  quite 
obviously  above.  Whatever  else  in  Rio  be  neglected,  the 
Corcovado  must  be  known  and  visited.  Other  cities  have 
boulevards^  if  less  beautiful,  fine  buildings  and  parks;  but 
there  is  one  Corcovado  in  all  the  world.  Still  approaching 
the  narrow  harbor  entrance  we  have  glimpses  of  the  city 
close  to  the  portal,  and  notice  that  its  suburbs  even  stretch 
to  the  ocean  and  along  splendid  beaches  quite  to  the  foot  of 
Gavea;  while  on  the  opposite  shore  also  are  many  dwellings. 
Long  before,  we  have  admired  the  celebrated  Pao  do  Assucar 
(loaf  of  sugar),  a  striking  and  enormous  conical  rock  over 
1300  feet  high,  standing  forth  boldly  into  the  channel  en- 
trance, which  it  guards  upon  the  left,  while  opposite  on  the 
right  a  rough  rock  promontory,  together  with  the  Assucar, 
forms  a  splendid  gateway. 

Not  merely  rock  protection  has  Eio  but  in  these  days  of 
jealous  strife  she  must  needs  possess  grim  fortresses  also; 
on  the  right  Imbuhy  and  Santa  Cruz,  on  the  left  Sao  Joao 
and  Mallet.  The  multitude  of  peaks  and  heights  around  the 
city  a  Brazilian  writer  speaks  of  as  "a  lively  guard  produced 
by  the  contortions  of  a  cataclysm."  To  him  everything 
seems  dancing.  In  truth  when  the  heavenly  tints  of  sunrise 
are  added  to  the  wondrous  shapes  and  hues  of  ordinary  day, 
the  picture  has  an  unearthly  beauty  which  no  tongue  or  pen 
can  describe. 

As  we  pass  the  Assucar  close  at  hand,  we  perceive  that 
while  the  other  rock  faces  are  smooth,  bare,  and  practically 
perpendicular,  this  side  is  rough  and  shows  a  bit  of  green, 
no  doubt  the  slope  where  once  the  ascent  was  made,  so  the 
story  goes,  by  a  hardy  Englishman  who  planted  on  the  sum- 
mit a  British  flag.  A  great  hue  and  cry  followed  this  daring 
act.  A  reward  was  offered  to  any  one  who  would  fetch  the 
banner  down.  The  bribe  was  vain,  till  at  length  the  culprit, 


308  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

detected,  himself  removed  the  offending  colors  from  the  staff 
which  long  remained  above. 

Just  beyond  the  Assucar,  on  the  curving  shore,  we  see  a 
part  of  the  fashionable  residence  district  On  the  edge  of 
the  first  deep  bay,  a  large  building  devoted  to  the  Ministry 
of  Agriculture  may  be  distinguished,  and  close  by,  the  Benj. 
Constant  Institute  and  the  National  Hospital  for  the  Insane. 
On  the  eastern  shore  of  the  bay  is  Jurujuba,  the  hospital  for 
epidemic  diseases,  the  pretty  beach  of  Icarahy,  then  Nietheroy, 
a  pleasant  town,  capital  of  the  State  of  Rio ,-  for  the  City  of 
Rio  de  Janeiro  is  a  Federated  Capital  like  Washington. 

This  wonderful  bay,  opening  towards  the  south,  contains 
an  extraordinary  number  of  fascinating  little  ones  of  grace- 
ful outline,  with  which  acquaintance  should  be  made  later. 
Attention  is  now  directed  to  the  wooded  slopes  and  rock  cliffs 
of  the  serried  peaks  and  mountain  ranges,  to  the  smiling  city, 
to  the  blue  waters  thickly  sprinkled  with  ships,  and  dotted 
with  islands.  The  bay  has  the  name  Gtutnabara,  as  well  as 
the  more  familiar  one,  Rio  de  Janeiro ;  the  former  an  Indian 
name,  arm  of  the  sea,  now  more  frequently  applied  to  the 
inner  and  larger  portion  of  the  gulf;  the  latter  given  by 
mistake  when  it  was  first  visited  January  1,  1502,  by  Gonzalo 
Coelho,  who  without  sufficient  exploration,  supposing  it  to  be 
the  estuary  of  a  great  river,  called  it  Rio  de  Janeiro,  River  of 
January.  From  this  the  people  later  were  called  Flumin- 
enses  or  River  Folk. 

In  1531  the  French  took  possession  of  the  bay,  to  be  driven  out 
soon  after  by  Alfonso  de  Sousa  who  erected  a  small  fort.  The 
French  returning  in  1555  under  the  command  of  Yillegaignon  ef- 
fected an  entrance  to  the  bay,  fortified  an  island  and  established  a 
colony  largely  of  Huguenots  who  maintained  very  friendly  rela- 
tions with  the  Indians;  but  in  1560,  Mem  de  Sa,  the  Governor- 
General  of  Brazil  in  Pernambueo,  which  was  earlier  settled,  estab- 
lished a  fort  on  the  peninsula  in  front  of  the  Sugar  Loaf,  Sao 
Joao,  and  captured  the  island  stronghold  of  the  French,  who,  re- 
treating to  the  mainland,  there  remained  with  the  support  of  the 
Indians.  In  1565  Estaeio  de  Sa,  nephew  of  Mem,  arrived  with  re- 
inforcements. After  much  fighting,  concluded  by  a  fierce  battle 
between  the  Morros  (hills)  da  Gloria  and  da  Yiuva,  when  the 
French  and  Indians  were  routed,  the  site  of  Rio  fell  into  the  pos- 
session of  the  Portuguese.  On  the  death  of  Estaeio  from  a  wound 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  309 

received  in  the  last  battle,  Mem  de  Sa  founded  a  city  which  he  called 
Sao  Sebastiao.  This  he  left  in  charge  of  his  nephew  Correia  de  Sa 
on  the  Morro  do  Castello. 

Once  more,  in  1710,  the  French  returned.  They  entered  the  town, 
but  in  the  streets  were  assaulted  so  fiercely  that  they  capitulated. 
After  their  commander  Bu  Clere  had  been  mysteriously  assassinated, 
another  French  fleet  arriving1  defeated  the  Portuguese;  but  after  tak- 
ing possession  of  the  city  later  withdrew  on  receiving  a  heavy  in- 
demnity. 

In  1762  or  ?63  Rio  was  made  the  Capital  of  Brazil  and  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Viceroy  in  the  place  of  Bahia;  partly  through  the  efforts 
of  Gomes  Freire  de  Andrade,  Count  of  Bobadella-  During  his  ad- 
ministration a  notable  work  was  achieved,  the  construction  of  the 
great  aqueduct  of  Santa  Theresa,  by  which  water  was  brought  from 
the  Carioea  River  to  the  center  of  the  city.  It  crossed  a  part  of  the 
town  on  a  double  archway,  which  now  bears  a  tramway.  Other  im- 
provements followed,  including  the  draining  of  the  great  marshes,  in 
the  section  near  the  present  Mangue  Canal.  By  the  close  of  the 
eighteenth  century  Rio  was  not  only  the  chief  city  of  Brazil  but  the 
largest  and  most  important  of  South  America.  Not  so  favorably  lo- 
cated as  to  back  country  as  some  others,  especially  Sao  Paulo,  its 
fine  harbor  gave  it  commercial  importance,  greatly  increased  by  the 
discovery  of  gold  and  precious  stones  in  the  State  of  Minas,  as  by 
this  port  most  of  the  adventurers  entered,  thence  following  a  long 
Indian  trail. 

When  the  Royal  family  arrived  from  Portugal  in  1808  the  city,  the 
largest  in  South  America,  had  forty-six  streets,  nineteen  open  squares, 
many  churches,  and  the  usual  public  buildings.  Its  growth,  though 
continuous,  has  been  hampered  until  the  last  decade  by  the  unhealth- 
fulness  of  the  city,  especially  the  scourge  of  yellow  fever,  also  by 
wars,  extravagance,  and  other  troubles.  With  the  reorganization  of 
the  finances  of  the  country  and  the  establishing  of  its  credit  during 
the  Presidency  of  Dr.  Campos  Salles  1898-1902,  the  regeneration 
of  the  city  under  the  later  Presidents  was  made  possible  and  the  ex- 
penditure of  $100,000,000  for  improvements  in  the  Federal  District 
within  the  last  ten  years.  _  On  the  most  charming  site  imaginable  a 
new  and  splendid  city  has  been  created  which,  still  in  the  process  of 
transformation,  soon  will  even  better  compare  with  its  uniquely  beau- 
tiful surroundings. 

To  one  entering  the  bay,  which  is  nearly  100  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, its  great  size  is  not  apparent,  as  the  large  inner 
sea  is  cut  off  by  points  and  islands  in  such  a  way  that  the 
shape  and  magnitude  of  the  entire  gulf  is  undisclosed.  Its 


310  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

configuration  as  a  whole  is  remarkably  like  tliat  of  the  coun- 
try, roughly  triangular  with  the  apex  at  the  south.  Among 
the  numerous  islands,  three  close  to  the  shore  may  be  par- 
ticularly noticed:  the  Island  Cobras  with  a  fort  where  polit- 
ical prisoners  have  been  confined;  the  Fiscal  Island  upon 
which  is  a  pretty  Gothic  structure,  headquarters  of  the  Cus- 
tom House  inspectors,  hence  the  name;  and  Villegaignon, 
named  for  its  first  settler,  also  bearing  a  fortress. 

Tour  ship  may  sail  past  the  greater  part  of  the  city  to 
the  new  and  splendid  docks  where  you  may  step  ashore  at 
your  ease,  or  pause  at  a  common  anchorage  in  front  of  the 
main  business  section  of  the  city,  where  you  have  the  advan- 
tage of  landing  at  the  Caes  dos  Mineiros  close  to  the  Custom 
House.  All  about  are  ships  of  every  size  and  as  usual  of  al- 
most every  nationality  except  our  own.  Once  indeed  I  saw 
here  the  Stars  and  Stripes,  floating  above  the  deck  of  a 
schooner  from  Maine,  on  its  annual  visit  to  bring  ice  and  ap- 
ples from  that  cooler  clime.  Yachts  and  launches,  pretty  and 
plain,  gasoline  and  rowboats  flit  about,  among  ships  of  larger 
size,  at  anchor  or  sailing,  two  of  these  probably  the  great  Bra- 
zilian warships,  the  Minas,  and  Sao  Paulo,  a  few  years  ago  the 
scene  of  serious  unpleasantness  due  to  a  marine  insurrection. 

The  city,  stretching  for  miles  along  the  curving  shore, 
presents  a  most  attractive  sight.  With  corresponding  depth 
its  size  would  be  immense,  but  its  width  is  barred,  as  effect- 
ively as  is  New  York's  by  its  two  rivers,  by  the  high  steep 
range  which  leaves  small  space  between  its  foot  and  the  sea; 
indeed,  it  thrusts  forward  several  sharp  projections  quite  into 
the  water,  and  chains  of  modest  hills  over  which  the 
dwellings  climb.  Thus  the  city  is  subdivided  into  many  sec- 
tions, to  which  one  may  proceed  only  in  a  roundabout  man- 
ner. Straggling  in  a  charming  way  over  the  level  patches 
of  ground  and  part  way  up  the  lower  slopes  of  some  parts  of 
the  lofty  rearward  rampart,  it  affords  room  for  a  population, 
now  practically  a  million,  with  plenty  of  space  for  more. 
The  second  city  in  the  Southern  Hemisphere,  the  fifth  in  all 
America,  though  older  than  any  in  the  United  States,  its 
modern  growth  and  development  have  been  brief  and  rapid. 

But  without  more  ado  we  must  hasten  ashore  and  have  a 
closer  look  at  the  beauties  spread  before  us.  If  at  the  docks, 


BIO  DB  JANEIRO  311 

a  few  steps  out,  through  the  fine  warehouses  or  around  them, 
bring  one  to  a  broad  splendid  avenue  where  passing  ears  will 
in  twenty  minutes  bear  its  occupants  to  the  center  of  the  city, 
and  to  the  Alfandega  or  Custom  House.  Also  carriages  may 
be  in  waiting,  a  trifle  dearer  than  in  Buenos  Aires,  but  with 
modest  fees  as  compared  with  New  York.  From  the  anchor- 
age, one  must  take  a  boat  to  the  steps  of  the  Caes  dos  Mineiros, 
where  men  and  boys  wait  to  conduct  you  to  the  Alfandega 
for  the  examination  of  baggage.  This  may  be  a  tedious  oper- 
ation which  a  judicious  tip  is  liable  to  accelerate.  As  the 
office  is  closed  from  11  to  1,  it  is  important  to  be  early  on 
shore,  else  you  may  be  compelled  to  return  in  the  afternoon 
for  your  heavy  baggage,  or  even  to  wait  until  the  next  day. 
Officials  and  underlings  are  usually  polite,  but  here  often 
slow. 

HOTELS  AND  RESTAURANTS 

HOTELS.  The  Avenida,  Avenida  Rio  Branco;  Estrangeiros,  Praca 
J.  de  Alencar;  International,  Sylvestre;  America,  Cattete;  France, 
Praga  15  de  Novembro;  Allen's,  Rua  Hmnayta;  Tijuca  (Tijuea) ; 
Grande,  Lapa;  G-lobo,  Primeiro  do  Marge;  Pensao  Suissa,  Largo  da 
Gloria, 

Restaurants.  FranJcisTcaner,  Avenida  Rio  Branco,  152;  Heim,  As- 
semblea,  119 ;  Londres,  Assemblea,  115 ;  Paris,  Uruguayana,  41 ;  and 
others. 

United  States  Consulate  and  Embassy:  Avenida,  117.  British 
Consulate:  Rua  General  Camara  2. 

Churches.  British,  Rua  Evaristo  da  Yiega;  American  Methodist, 
Rua  Conde  de  Baependy. — Y.  M.  C.  A.  Building,  Rua  da  Quitanda 
47. 

Money.  A  milreis  is  33  cents;  100  reis  3^  cents;  a  eonto  is  1000 
milreis,  written  1000$. 

Carriages.  Four  wheels,  for  two,  first  hour,  6$;  second  hour,  3$; 
two  wheels,  for  one,  4$,  first  hour;  2$,  second  hour. 

Taxis.  (For  one  or  two  persons),  first  hour  8$;  second,  4$. 
Course  about  a  mile  l.$400,  for  each  quarter  mile  after,  200  reis. 

Postage.    Two  hundred  reis  to  the  United  States  or  Europe. 

Language  spoken,  Portuguese;  also  often  French.  Spanish  gen- 
erally understood. 

CHIEF  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

Avenida  do  Rio  Braneo,  the  National  Library,  the  Fine  Arts  Mus- 
eum, the  Cathedral,  and  the  Candelaria  Church,  the  Pragas  15  of 


312  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

November,  and  Republics,  the  Passeio  Publieo,  the  Beira  Mar,  the 
Botanical  Garden,  the  Pao  de  Assuear,  and— CORCOVADO. 

It  is  a  great  advantage  to  have  selected  one's  hotel  in 
advance  and  to  have  rooms  engaged,  as  the  three  leading 
establishments  are  a  long  way  apart. 

The  carregadores  who  have  numbers  on  their  hats  may 
usually  be  relied  upon  to  bring  in  time  your  baggage  to  its  des- 
tination.   Some  haggling  over  the  price  is  usual,  as  large  fees 
are  demanded;  not  too  large  perhaps  for  those  who  carry 
them  on  foot,  but  more  than  an  ordinary  express  company 
would  ask  for  the  same  distance.    The  carregadores  carry  suit 
eases  and  other  small  packages,  several  of  them,  on  their 
heads,  at  least  to  the  cars,  where  they  must  pay  their  fare. 
Also  it  must  be  said  that  baggage  is  not  allowed  in  electrics 
of  the  first  class  (I  did  once  smuggle  a  suit  case)  nor — make 
a  note  of  tJds — is  any  man  allowed  without  a  coat,  however 
hot  the  weather.    Even  on  the  street  a  gentleman  under  no 
circumstances  is  expected  to  carry  his  coat  over  his  arm. 
One  American  who  did  so  was  politely  accosted  by  a  Brazil- 
ian who  said,  "Man,  coat  put  on!"  in  the  best  English  he 
could  muster.    Two  milreis  would  be  charged  for  two  or 
three  pieces  of  hand  baggage  to  the  Avenida  Hotel  and  four 
or  five  for  a  trunk,  which  would  be  pushed  in  a  hand-cart; 
double  to  the  Estrangeiros,  less  to  the  Suissa.    For  the  Inter- 
national Hotel,  the  Express  Company  mugt  be  employed,  but 
with  that  there  may  be  considerable  delay.     Each  hotel  has 
its  own  especial  merit,  which  to  some  minds  would  outweigh 
all  others  and  render  possible  a  decision  without  personal 
observation ,-  many  will  prefer  to  spy  out  the  land  for  them- 
selves.   It  has  been  said  that  there  is  no  really  first-class 
hotel  in  Eio,  but  a  Ritz  Carlton  now  being  constructed  on 
the  Avenida  with  accommodations  for  1200  visitors,  will  be 
opened  in  1914.    As  hotels  are  liable  to  be  full,  it  is  wise  to 
telephone  before  going  to  look  at  rooms. 

First  may  be  mentioned  the  Hotel  Avemdaf  American  Plan 
$5  up,  not  because  it  is  the  best,  but  as  being  in  the  center 
of  things,  right  on  the  main  business  street,  the  new  Avenida 
Eio  Branco,  Many  lines  of  electric  cars  start  from  beneath 
its  portico  and  nearly  all  the  others  pass  within  one  or  two 


EIO  DE  JANEIRO  313 

blocks.  Naturally  it  is  noisy  but  persons  accustomed  to  our 
city  streets  will  hardly  mind.  This  hotel,  having  a  restau- 
rant with  all  night  service  and  music  every  evening,  is  the 
largest  in  Brazil.  Many  English  speaMng  tourists,  however, 
prefer  one  of  the  other  two.  The  Hotel  dos  Estrangeiros, 
the  Strangers',  is  a  large  establishment  facing  the  Praga  Jose 
de  Alencar,  a  charming  ride  of  20  minutes  from  the  Hotel 
Avenida  in  the  direction  of  the  Assucar,  mostly  along  the 
boulevard  by  the  sea  called  the  Beira  Mar.  The  hotel  is  not 
far,  about  two  blocks,  from  the  water,  which  may  be  visible 
from  the  upper  windows  in  the  rear;  in  front  several  lines 
of  ears  diverge  in  various  directions.  The  table  is  no  more 
than  fair,  though  perhaps  as  good  as  any ;  the  price,  12  to  15 
or  more  milreis  daily  being  sufficient  for  what  is  provided. 
Opportunity  for  sea  bathing  is  near;  also  for  hot  and  cold 
baths  in  a  hydropathic  establishment.  The  International  Ho- 
tel, which  seems  more  out  of  the  city,  though  reached  in  about 
the  same  length  of  time  from  the  Avenida,  is  recommended  as 
cooler  in  the  hot  season,  from  October  to  April,  and  is  by 
many  preferred  at  any  time,  on  account  of  its  delightful 
situation  1000  feet  above  the  sea  on  the  way  to  Corcovado. 
Though  the  ride  is  but  five  minutes  longer,  the  cars  do  not 
go  so  often  as  to  the  Estrangeiros,  which  is  served  by  all  the 
cars  of  the  Jardim  Botanico  Co.,  these  passing  in  an  almost 
continuous  row  under  the  Hotel  Avenida.  The  ears  to  the  In- 
ternational set  out  once  in  20  minutes  from  the  farther  side 
of  the  Praga  de  Carioca,  a  Square  just  behind  the  Hotel 
Avenida ;  the  invisible  starting  point  is  around  at  the  back  of 
a  certain  building.  This  line,  called  the  Santa  Theresa,  goes 
by  the  rua  do  Aqueducto  over  the  arches  which  once  bore 
the  aqueduct,  across  a  portion  of  the  city  from  a  hill,  the 
Morro  de  Sto.  Antonio,  to  that  of  Sta.  Theresa,  the  latter 
being  rather  a  ridge  extending  from  the  peak  of  Corcovado. 
On  the  steep  slope  of  the  ridge  the  International  is  situated, 
where  the  nights  are  ever  comfortable,  while  the  journey  to 
and  fro  is  always  a  delight.  The  hotel  has  many  suites 
of  rooms  and  bath  with  hot  and  cold  water,  and  is  a 
favorite  resort  with  many.  At  these  three  hotels  the  rates 
are  much  the  same. 
Should  one  prefer  a  more  modest  establishment  with  lower 


314:  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

prices,  a  finer  outlook  than  any  save  the  International,  and 
more  conveniently  located  than  any  but  the  Avenida,  he  may 
go  to  the  Pensao  Suissa,  kept  by  a  motherly  German  Fran, 
only  ten  minutes  from  the  Avenida  by  any  of  the  Jardim 
Botanieo  lines,  and  looking  out  upon  the  bay,  the  Gloria 
hill,  the  lovely  Beira  Mar.  The  rooms  are  as  neat  as  possible, 
so  that  I  was  able  to  reply  to  a  gentleman's  query  as  to  red 
ants  that  I  had  seen  none,  which  seemed  to  him  a  great  sur- 
prise, as  he  supposed  that  every  dwelling  in  Rio  contained 
them.  The  various  other  hotels  and  pensions  are  not  without 
merit  and  patrons. 

One  may  generally  get  settled  in  his  hotel  in  time  for  the 
noon  meal,  though  the  luggage  is  not  likely  to  arrive  before 
the  middle  of  the  afternoon.  Yet  the  time  should  be  im- 
proved, either  by  sight-seeing  in  the  middle  of  the  city,  or 
if  one  is  tired  by  a  ride  to  some  of  the  suburbs.  A  few 
tourists,  caring  little  for  the  commercial  and  business  section 
of  the  city,  devote  their  entire  time  to  the  wonders  of  the 
jewel's  marvellous  setting.  The  center  of  the  city  should  not, 
however,  be  ignored.  Yet  a  ride  in  car  or  automobile, 
according  to  the  length  of  the  purse,  will  be  a  delightful 
beginning  for  the  eager  tourist.  In  an  auto  one  may  skim 
over  a  great  part  of  the  city's  boulevards  in  a  single  after- 
noon. Our  admiration  for  these  magnificent  drives  and  park- 
ways, unsurpassed  in  the  world  in  their  opportunities  for 
delightsome  hours,  will  be  heightened  if  we  are  mindful  of 
tiie  astonishing  transformation  which  has  here  been  wrought 
within  the  last  decade.  In  1903  Rio  was  a  dirty,  not  to  say 
filthy,  city  of  narrow  streets,  a  place  to  be  shunned,  as  often  a 
hot  bed  of  yellow  fever.  For  its  regeneration  various  plans 
had  previously  been  proposed,  but  President  Rodriguez  Alves 
was  the  man  who  put  one  of  these  into  execution. 

The  slowness  of  Latin  Americans  (in  fact  of  every  one 
but  themselves),  so  favorite  a  theme  in  the  talk  of  their 
northern  neighbors,  does  not  appear  in  this  instance.  It 
would  puzzle  us,  I  think,  to  find  in  the  United  States  any 
city,  save  San  Francisco  when  necessity  compelled,  where 
by  works  of  such  magnitude  a  great  city  has  so  speedily  been 
metamorphosed  through  the  destruction,  replanning,  and  re- 
building of  some  of  the  most  compact  and  important  busi- 


AVENIDA  DE   RIO  BRAXCO 


BOULEVARD    BEIRA    MAR    FROM    PENSAO     SUISSA 


EIO  DE  JANEIRO  315 

ness  and  residence  sections.    Nearly  $60,000,000  was  devoted 
to  this  great  transformation. 

The  plan  which  was  approved  in  September,  1903,  included 
the  construction  of  a  great  quay  arranged  for  ships  to  come 
alongside,  furnished  with  storage  warehouses,  railways,  and 
electric  lights,  with  a  parallel  avenue  125  feet  wide  and  2 
miles  long;  the  improving  of  a  cross  canal  to  the  sea  by 
making  it  a  solidly  walled  stream,  with  on  each  side  an  ave- 
nue shaded  with  palms ;  the  lifting  of  the  railroad  from  street 
level  to  a  viaduct  16  feet  above;  the  construction  of  a  broad 
avenue  straight  to  the  Quinta  of  Boa  Vista,  residence  of  the 
late  Emperor;  the  increase  of 'the  water  supply;  the  renova- 
tion of  the  sewerage  system  with  all  modern  improvements; 
the  removal  of  several  hills ;  the  filling  in  of  large  sections; 
the  widening  of  a  number  of  streets;  and  the  formation  in 
the  heart  of  the  city  of  a  new  avenue  a  mile  and  a  quarter 
long  and  120  feet  wide. 

The  inauguration  of  the  great  work  of  the  Avenida  Cen- 
tral, as  it  was  originally  called,  a  broad  thoroughfare  cross- 
ing, from  one  side  to  the  other,  the  shallow  peninsula  oc- 
cupied by  the  commercial  district,  on  the  front  of  which  is 
Caes  Pharoux,  occurred  March  8, 1904,  with  the  participation 
of  the  President  and  other  officials  and  with  much  enthusiasm 
on  the  part  of  the  people;  as  a  broad  outlet  for  the  future 
traffic  of  the  port  was  seen  to  be  an  absolute  necessity.  The 
foundations  of  the  building  numbered  2,  4  and  6  being  then 
begun,  the  great  task  was  swiftly  advanced.  Day  and  night 
was  the  work  pushed;  600  buildings  within  three  months 
were,  by  3000  workmen,  utterly  demolished,  opening  a  space 
230  feet  wide:  65  feet  each  side  for  the  new  buildings,  120 
for  the  central  paved  roadway,  and  20  for  each  sidewalk. 
Along  the  center  of  the  avenue  a  row  of  53  Pao  Brazil  trees 
was  planted  in  beds  16  feet  long,  and  55  posts  bear  each  3 
electric  lights.  On  the  sidewalks  are  more  trees,  and  posts 
for  illumination  by  gas.  As  the  trees  grow  larger  the  beauty 
of  the  avenue  will  be  increased.  Most  of  the  new  buildings, 
which  mark  the  introduction  into  Brazil  of  American  steel 
frame  construction,  are  of  fine  types  of  architecture  in  a 
variety  of  styles. 

In  other  sections  1200  old  buildings  were  sacrified  to  open 


316  THE  SOUTH  AMBEICAN  TOUE 

or  widen  a  dozen  other  streets,  these  now  from  55  to  100  feet 
wide,  paved  with  asphalt  or  in  a  few  cases  with  fine  granite 
blocks.  On  all  sides  new  buildings  sprang  up  by  magic. 

Of  still  greater  magnitude  and  requiring  more  time  was 
the  improvement  of  the  port,  now  approaching  completion. 
The  stone  quay  more  than  two  miles  in  length,  with  sufficient 
depth  of  water  to  allow  ships  of  any  draught  to  come  along- 
side, is  provided  with  the  most  modern  machinery  for  hoist- 
ing, loading  and  unloading  ships,  and  with  two  stations  sup- 
plying electric  power  for  these  as  well  as  for  lighting  already 
in  service.  Back  of  the  wall,  a  space  where  formerly  were 
bays  and  islands  has  been  for  the  most  part  filled  in,  at  some 
points  for  a  width  of  800  feet.  Then  along  the  quay  a  broad 
avenue  was  opened.  A  width  of  80  feet  for  railroad  tracks,  of 
110  feet  for  storage  warehouses  (called  armazem)  and  for 
administration  offices,  is  followed  by  the  broad  well  paved 
avenue  125  feet  wide,  bordered  with  trees  and  with  double 
tracks  for  electric  cars.  To  fill  in  this  great  space  sand  was 
dredged  from  the  bay,  and  earth  was  brought  from  Senado 
Hill,  now  completely  leveled. 

While  these  great  matters  were  undertaken  by  the  general 
Government,  the  new  Mayor  of  Eio,  Dr.  Francisco  Passos, 
attended  to  the  broadening  of  other  streets,  repaving  with 
asphalt  or  with 'granite  blocks;  to  the  embellishing  of  the 
city  with  gardens,  etc.,  and  to  the  construction  of  the  beau- 
tiful boulevard  four  miles  long  and  110  feet  wide  along  the 
water  front  towards  the  Pao  do  Assucar.  Even  the  resur- 
rection of  San  Francisco  in  one  way  seems  less  wonderful 
than  Eio's  transformation,  in  that  the  former  was  compulsory, 
the  latter  voluntary.  The  greatest  work  in  Eio  was  more  in 
preparing  anew  the  foundations  than  in  the  actual  con- 
struction. It  was,  says  the  Brazilian  writer  from  whom  I 
have  already  quoted,  "the  work  of  an  enterprise."  He 
modestly  says  that  there  is  nothing  especial  to  say  about  the 
buildings  of  Eio.  As  to  those  of  a  residential  character  he 
asserts  that  some  are  nice,  "but  the  majority  of  them  is  an 
awful  sight  reminding  antiquity/'  To  me  they  did  not  so 
appear,  the  many  being  pretty  and  tasteful,  if  unpretentious, 
while  the  dwellings  of  the  poorer  classes  are  less  hideous  than 
those  inhabited  by  the  poor  in  our  own  country. 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  317 

While  the  most  delightful  of  the  hours  spent  in  Bio  may 
be  those  devoted  to  excursions  to  the  suburbs,  one  should 
visit  also  the  commercial  section,  the  public  buildings,  the 
shops,  the  market ;  and  traverse  some  of  the  streets,  wide  and 
narrow,  where  the  life  and  business  of  the  city  go  on.  A  day 
or  two  may  profitably  be  spent  in  the  busy  marts  of  trade. 

One  may  set  out  from  Caes  Pharoux,  to  which  suitable 
attention  will  hardly  be  given  when  landing.  Here  is  a  great 
Square  or  Plaza,  in  Portuguese  a  Praga,  that  of  November 
15,  Quinze  de  Novembro.  At  the  right  as  you  face  the  water- 
front is  the  Ferry  House  for  the  boats  running  across  to 
Nictheroy.  From  here  also  depart  excursion  boats  on  Sun- 
day for  a  trip  around  the  bay.  The  Praga  has  the  usual 
pretty  garden  in  the  center,  with  a  bronze  equestrian  statue 
of  General  Osorio,  Marquez  do  Herval',  one  of  the  command- 
ers in  the  Paraguayan  War,  and  also  leader  of  the  State 
forces  of  Eio  Grande  do  Sul  in  an  insurrection  against  the 
first  President  of  Brazil.  On  the  right  hand  side  of  the 
square,  as  one  faces  the  water,  near  the  Ferry  House,  is  a 
four-story  building  more  than  150  years  old,  of  typical  co- 
lonial architecture,  once  the  residence  of  an  aristocratic  fam- 
ily, now  a  lodging  house.  The  large  terra  eotta  building  is 
devoted  to  the  Ministry  of  Transportation.  The  two-story 
pink  building,  higher  in  the  center,  is  of  -greater  interest. 
Erected  in  1747  and  now  occupied  by  the  Department  of 
Telegraphs,  it  was  first  the  home  of  the  Colonial  Governors; 
on  the  arrival  of  Prince  Joao  it  became  his  residence,  and 
later  served  as  the  Imperial  Palace.  It  was  here  that  the 
Princess  Regent,  Isabella,  signed  the  Emancipation  Decree, 
May  13, 1888,  as  a  tablet  on  the  wall  sets  forth,  and  from  here 
the  Emperor  Dom  Pedro  was  taken,  Nov.  17,  1889,  to  be 
placed  upon  a  warship  and  banished  to  Europe,  after  the 
proclamation  of  the  Republic,  Nov.  15. 

On  the  street,  rua  Dom  Manoel,  which  separates  these  two 
buildings,  next  to  the  Ministry  of  Transportation,  is  a  large 
green  edifice  which  houses  the  Naval  Museum.  This  Museum, 
founded  by  imperial  decree  in  1868,  was  opened  to  the  public 
in  1884  with  inaugurating  ceremonies  by  the  Emperor.  On 
the  anniversary  of  the  battle  of  Riachuelo,  an  important  naval 
victory  in  the  Paraguayan  campaign,  the  museum  was  first 


318  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

opened  in  its  present  quarters  June  11,  1898.  Free  entrance 
daily,  from  11  till  2,  except  Sundays  and  holidays.  The  first 
section  of  the  museum  contains  29  oil  paintings  of  Brazil's 
great  naval  tattles,  15  of  these  by  the  celebrated  marine 
artist,  Chevallier  E.  de  Martino,  a  protege  of  Dom  Pedro  II, 
and  later  named  by  Queen  Victoria  Marine  Painter  to  the 
Court  of  England.  Picture  number  5,  of  the  battle  of 
Riachuelo,  is  considered  one  of  his  best  works.  In  the  second 
section  are  portraits  and  photographs  of  the  Ministers  of 
Marine  and  naval  heroes,  including  the  British  Admiral 
Cochrane,  who  also  helped  the  Spanish  Americans  in  their 
struggle  for  independence.  Becoming  Marquez  do  Marenhao 
he  received  a  grant  of  land  now  held  by  his  heirs.  The  third 
section  contains  models  of  vessels,  from  the  new  Dreadnoughts 
down  to  canoes  and  fishing  boats.  The  fourth  contains  flags 
and  standards,  the  fifth,  samples  of  artillery,  cannon,  and 
projectiles,  the  sixth,  hand  weapons,  such  as  spears  and  rifles, 
the  seventh,  naval  and  Indian  relies  and  curios,  the  eighth, 
medals,  souvenirs,  etc. 

The  large  Pra§a  has  a  smaller  continuation  at  the  west, 
facing  which,  on  the  corner  of  rua  7th  of  September,  is  the 
Cathedral,  to  which  a  great  tower  is  now  being  added.  On 
the  other  side  is  a  larger  church  which  might  be  mistaken 
for  the  official  building.  Neither  is  especially  handsome, 
inside  or  out,  both  interiors  being  in  an  ornate  rococo  style 
which  may  be  admired  by  some.  The  Cathedral,  however,  has 
as  a  feature  of  historic  interest  a  slab  set  in  the  wall  at  the 
left  of  the  altar  bearing  an  inscription  in  memory  of  the 
discoverer,  Pedro  Alvares  Cabral,  whose  remains  were 
brought  from  Portugal  and  interred  in  the  wall  of  the  tower 
in  1903. 

The  Cathedral,  founded  in  early  colonial  days,  with  this 
tower  is  less  overshadowed  by  the  larger  Igreja  (Church) 
do  Carmo  on  its  right.  When  the  tower  foundations  were 
sunk,  a  stratum  of  sea  sand  was  struck  containing  fragments 
of  ancient  sea  craft,  showing  that  the  shore  is  now  greatly 
advanced.  The  completed  tower  will  be  the  highest  structure 
in  the  city.  With  clocks  on  three  sides  it  will  carry  a  chime 
of  bells,  the  largest  of  which,  weighing  2%  tons,  was  cast  in 
Portugal  in  1621.  In  the  interior  of  the  Cathedral  is  a  fine 


EIO  DE  JANEIRO  319 

main  altar,  back  of  wMeh  is  a  painting  of  the  Italian  School. 
Sub-altars  to  the  Virgin  are  on  each  side  of  the  nave,  and  one 
to  Santa  Rosa  de  Lima,  Patron  of  Sonth  America.  Near  the 
main  altar  is  the  throne  of  the  Cardinal  Archbishop,  and 
formerly  there  was  in  front  of  this  a  chair  of  state  for  the 
use  of  the  Emperor.  A  flag  carried  in  the  Paraguayan  War 
by  the  regiment  of  Volunteers  of  the  country  is  near  the  high 
altar.  In  the  second  niche  on  the  right,  to  one  entering,  is  a 
'  *  Christ  of  the  Jury, ' '  torn  by  a  mob  of  Anti-Clericals  from  its 
place  in  the  Jury  Court.  Later  a  new  one  was  there  placed 
with  great  pomp  and  processions. 

On  the  other  side  of  rua  7th  of  September  is  a  large  white 
building  where  the  Commercial  M^eutn,  open  from  ten  to 
four,  may  be  visited.  Business  men  and  others  are  welcome, 
and  a  Bureau  of  Information  is  at  hand  for  the  service  of  com- 
mercial men  and  manufacturers.  Here  may  be  studied  the 
coffee  grades  of  the  world's  great  markets,  the  decisions  of 
the  Tariff  Commission,  229  varieties  of  Brazilian  vegetable 
products,  including  dyes,  inks,  aromatics,  gums,  resins,  and 
foods,  with  many  medicinal  plants,  used  among  the  natives 
but  unknown  to  the  scientific  world.  Here  also  are  50  va- 
rieties of  fibres,  2000  varieties  of  Brazilian  wood,  ten  of  cot- 
ton, an  exhibition  of  the  process  of  rubber  making,  etc. 

In  the  same  building  is  the  Institute*  Historico  e  Geo- 
grapluco,  a  society  founded  in  1838  with  a  membership  from 
among  the  most  intellectual  men  of  the  country.  There  is  a 
large  collection  of  rare  books  and  manuscripts,  also  busts  of 
bronze  and  marble,  and  relics  of  various  kinds,  one  of  these 
the  old  Roda  or  wheel  used  to  receive  children  at  the  Casa 
dos  Expostos.  This  hollow  wooden  cylinder  with  an  opening 
at  the  side  was  fixed  in  the  wall.  A  baby  might  easily  be 
deposited  within  and  the  wheel  pushed  around  carrying  the 
baby  inside,  when  a  bell  would  ring  in  the  convent  summon- 
ing the  Sisters  to  receive  the  child,  which  was  taken  charge 
of  and  brought  up  with  no  questions  asked. 

To  the  south  of  the  Praca  beyond  the  Ferry  House,  and 
close  to  the  water,  is  the  ever  interesting  Market  Place. 
Fruits,  flowers,  birds,  meat,  vegetables,  and  people,  all  merit 
attention,  as  do  the  well  constructed  booths  and  the  attractive 
cleanliness  of  the  place. 


320  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

Prom  this  square  many  lines  of  electric  railways  lead  in 
various  directions,  but  it  is  only  a  short  walk  to  the  Avenida 
by  the  street  at  the  corner  of  the  Cathedral,  or  by  several 
parallel  streets.  It  is  better  perhaps  first  to  turn  to  the  right 
and  follow  the  important  street,  Primeiro  de  Margo,  parallel 
to  the  bay  front.  On  this  street  is  the  Post  Office,  the  Bolsa 
or  Stock  Exchange,  of  Italian  style,  one  of  the  finest  build- 
ings of  the  city,  the  Bank  of  Commerce,  and  the  Supreme 
Court  edifice  of  beautiful  rose-colored  stone  and  marble, 
sumptuously  decorated  without  and  within.  The  Alfandega 
or  Custom  House,  of  a  green  color,  may  be  seen  from  this 
ma,  nearer  the  shore,  on  a  street  of  the  same  name.  From 
the  Primeiro  de  Mar§o  many  narrow  streets  lead  to  the 
Avenida,  which  some  of  them  cross,  among  these  the  Ouvidor, 
long  the  most  famous  thoroughfare  of  Rio  and  still  the  fash- 
ionable shopping  street.  Now  alas!  it  has  received  another 
name,  Moreira  Cezar,  so  you  may  look  in  vain  for  the  Ouvidor, 
though  every  one  still  calls  it  by  its  old  appellation.  This 
fascinating  little  street  is  hardly  20  feet  wide.  The  narrow 
sidewalks  are  almost  too  smooth  and  slippery  with  variously 
colored  tiles.  No  carts  or  carriages  are  allowed  in  the  street, 
the  center  of  which,  well  paved,  is  used  by  pedestrians.  The 
street  is  the  rendezvous  of  high  life,  as  well  as  of  idlers, 
students,  politicians,  and  tourists.  Here  are  the  most  elegant 
shops,  jewelry,  book  stores,  dry  goods,  etc.,  with  cafes  and 
clubhouses,  some  fine  buildings,  and  others  poor. 

But  before  crossing  by  this  to  the  Avenida,  the  Candelaria 
Church  a  little  to  the  north,  on  a  narrow  street  of  the  same 
name,  should  be  visited.  This,  called  the  richest  church  in 
Latin  America,  deserves  a  better  location  on  a  broad  plaza, 
rather  than  here  on  this  little  street.  The  edifice,  planned  and 
built  by  a  Brazilian  engineer,  Evaristo  da  Veiga,  has  three 
finely  carved  bronze  doors,  and  a  rich  and  elaborate  interior. 
Fine  marble  columns,  a  beautiful  ceiling  with  mosaic  decora- 
tions, and  fine  paintings  by  the  best  Brazilian  artists,  excite 
admiration. 


CHAPTEE  XXX 
BIO  DE  JANEIRO— CONTHSTCJED 

THE  Avenida  do  Eio  Branco,  so  called  since  the  recent 
death  of  the  famous  Baron  of  that  name,  formerly  the  Cen- 
tral, is  claimed  by  Brazilians  to  be  the  most  beautiful  street 
in  the  world.  Though,  from  one  or  another  point  of  view, 
other  partisans  may  dispute  its  pre-eminence,  there  is  no  ques- 
tion as  to  its  splendid  construction  and  imposing  edifices, 
which  for  variety  and  beauty  it  would  be  difficult  to  match 
within  the  same  distance  in  any  other  city.  Every  style  of 
architecture  is  represented,  Moorish,  Gothic,  Italian,  etc., 
with  varied  and  lovely  coloring.  Minarets  and  towers,  un- 
usual mosaic  sidewalks,  the  welcome  shade  and  friendly  green 
of  trees,  the  dashing  automobiles,  fashionable  and  beautiful 
women,  men  from  almost  every  clime  contribute  to  the  won- 
derful Avenida.  Made  to  order,  so  rapidly  as  to  take  one's 
breath,  it  is  indeed  a  notable,  a  marvellous  achievement: 
begun  in  1904,  finished  in  1906;  and  not  this  only,  but  the 
beautiful  Beira  Mar  as  well.  It  seems  a  transformation  by 
magic.  To  mention  the  various  attractive  buildings  is  impos- 
sible. Many  banks  and  important  commercial  houses  may  be 
found  here,  buildings  of  the  leading  newspapers,  the  Jornal  do 
Ccmimercio,  the  Jornal  do  Brazil,  the  0  Paiz,  and  conspicuous 
near  the  south  end,  the  National  Library  and  the  Art  Museum 
on  the  left,  the  Municipal  Theater  on  the  right,  and  at  the 
very  end  on  the  right  the  Monroe  Palace. 

The  National  Library,  called  the  most  valuable  in  South 
America  and,  with  more  than  400,000  catalogued  numbers,  the 
largest  south  of  the  equator,  is  housed  in  a  handsome  building 
of  the  best  modern  equipment.  This  was  designed  and  con- 
structed by  the  Mayor,  General  Souza  A'guiar,  after  an  inspec- 
tion of  the  libraries  of  Europe  and  America.  It  contains  its 
own  departments  for  printing  and  binding.  The  famous 
Ajuda  Collection,  which  was  brought  over  by  Prince  Joao 

321 


322  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

in  1806,  when  Napoleon's  army  invaded  Portugal,  was  the 
nucleus.  From  the  old  Carmelite  hospital  in  the  rua  Primeiro 
de  Margo  it  was  moved  to  its  own  quarters  in  1810,  when  it 
already  numbered  60,000  volumes.  All  schools  and  periods 
of  typographic  art  may  here  be  found,  examples  of  Johann 
Fust  and  Peter  Schoeffer,  Aiding  and  Plautius,  Ibarras, 
Elsivers,  and  many  others.  A  permanent  exhibition  has  been 
arranged  of  Books,  Manuscripts  and  Charts,  Engravings  and 
Prints,  Medals  and  Coins.  In  the  rarity  of  some  of  its  treas- 
ures, if  not  in  number,  the  collection  compares  with  the  fa- 
mous ones  of  Europe:  a  perfect  copy  of  the  Mazarin  Bible 
printed  in  1462,  the  first  from  movable  type,  the  first  edition 
of  the  New  Testament  by  Erasmus  of  Rotterdam,  1514,  a 
Novus  Orbis  Begionum  with  map  of  Brazil,  1532,  a  Roycroft 
Bible,  London  1557,  and  many  other  rarities.  Among  the  300 
engravings  and  prints  are  worts  of  Diirer,  Cranach,  Rubens, 
etc.  With  over  100,000  prints  and  above  30,000  (many  rare) 
numismatic  specimens,  a  treat  is  afforded  to  the  specialist. 

The  reading  room,  where  it  should  be,  on  the  main  floor, 
is  furnished  with  comfortable  leather-covered  armchairs  and 
individual  desks.  In  the  side  galleries  around  the  rotunda 
are  arranged  in  glass  cases  many  of  the  especial  gems  of  the 
rare  specimens.  In  the  great  stack  rooms,  I  observed  many 
books  in  English,  noticing  the  names  of  Mark  Twain, 
Maeaulay,  Dickens,  and  others.  The  finest  editions  of  the 
various  works  in  handsome  bindings  seem  to  have  been 
selected. 

The  library  is  open  from  ten  A.  M.  to  nine  P.  M.  with  the 
usual  exception  of  Sundays  and  holidays.  • 

Other  libraries  which  only  the  specialist  will  be  likely  to 
visit  are  the  Fluminense  with  90,000  volumes,  on  the  Ouvidor, 
the  Libraries  of  the  Army,  and  of  the  Navy,  that  of  the  M ed- 
ical  School  with  70,000  volumes,  of  the  Polytechnic  with 
70,000,  the  Senate  Library,  the  Congressional,  the  Gabinete 
Portuguez  de  Leitura,  occupying  a  beautiful  building  in  the 
rua  Luis  de  Camoes  near  San  Francisco  Square,  the  Com- 
merce Library  in  the  Stock  Exchange  Building,  and  others. 

Next  to  the  Bibliotheca  Nacional  on  the  Avenida  is  the 
Escola  de  Bellas  Artes,  the  Art  School  and  Museum.  Again 
the  collection  of  Prince  Joao  was  the  nucleus  to  which  many 


NATIONAL   LIBRARY 


SCHOOL  OF  FINE  ARTS 


BIO  DE  JANEIRO  323 

accretions  have  been  made  by  Government  grant  and  by  pri- 
vate donations.  Among  original  works  of  the  old  masters 
of  various  schools  which  are  here  to  be  seen  are  canvases  of 
Caracei,  Correggio,  Greuze,  Guido  Reni,  Jordaens,  Lucas, 
Murillo,  Poussin,  Rubens,  Snyder,  Jan  Stein,  Teniers,  Tin- 
toretto, Van  Dyke,  Velasquez,  Veronese,  Wouvermans,  and 
many  others,  besides  more  than  100  never  positively  iden- 
tified. Among  fine  pieces  of  sculpture  is  one  by  Rodolpho 
Bernadelli  of  Christ  and  the  Adulteress.  A  large  number 
of  productions  of  Brazilian  artists  is  also  included  in  the  col- 
lection, which  is  said  to  be  the  largest  and  most  important 
in  South  America. 

Opposite  the  Fine  Arts  Museum  is  the  Municipal  Theater, 
a  splendid  edifice,  facing  a  small  triangular  park,  with  one 
side  on  the  Avenida. 

The  theater,  like  the  Colon  in  Buenos  Aires,  is  fitted  up 
with  every  modern  improvement,  mechanical  and  electrical 
devices  above  and  below  the  stage,  which  seems  almost  as 
large  as  the  auditorium,  with  rows  upon  rows  of  floor  drops 
to  give  the  depth  desired.  A  power  plant,  an  air  filtering 
and  cooling  plant,  and  what  is  called  the  most  beautiful  res- 
taurant in  South  America,  minister  to  the  comfort  of  the 
audience.  The  restaurant  of  Assyrian  style  in  details  follows 
Babylonian  originals  in  the  Louvre  of  Paris.  The  leather- 
covered  armchairs  in  the  auditorium,  of  unusual  width  and 
well  spaced,  are  especially  comfortable.  The  President,  of 
course,  is  provided  with  an  elegant  box,  communicating  with 
private  salon  and  dining-room  on  the  floor  below.  Modelled 
after  the  Paris  Opera  House,  though  a  trifle  smaller,  it  is 
richly  decorated.  Designed  and  built  by  Dr.  Francisco 
Oliveira  Passos,  son  of  the  great  Mayor  Passos,  during  whose 
administration  the  grand  transformation  of  the  city  was 
largely  effected,  the  theater  was  inaugurated  in  July,  1909, 
with  Rejane  and  an  all  star  French  company.  It  is  now 
leased  to  an  impresario  who  must  produce  each  year  a  num- 
ber of  standard  plays,  some  in  Portuguese  translation,  and 
some  plays  by  native  dramatists,  further  encouraging  national 
art  by  conducting  a  dramatic  school.  Visitors  may  be  ad- 
mitted at  the  rear  entrance  between  ten  and  four  on  working 
days. 


324  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

At  the  very  end  of  the  Avenue,  not  far  from  the  Theater 
and  close  to  the  sea>  with  open  space  on  every  side,  stands 
the  Monroe  Palace,  which  at  the  St.  Louis  Exposition  served 
as  the  Brazilian  headquarters,  and  here,  in  1906,  as  the  meet- 
ing place  for  the  second  Pan  American  Congress.  It  is  of  a 
rather  florid  type  of  architecture,  the  most  ornate  of  the 
buildings  on  the  Avenue. 

The  Monroe  Palace  has  one  entrance  on  the  Avenida  and 
one  on  the  opposite  side  towards  the  Passeio  Publico.  This 
most  ancient  of  the  public  gardens  of  Rio,  founded  in  1783, 
contains  vegetation  from  this  epoch,  hence  130  years  old.  It 
has  the  usual  beauties  of  tropical  parks,  trees,  shrubbery, 
flower  beds,  and  vines,  also  several  statues,  and  a  pretty  build- 
ing, entrance  1  milreis,  housing  a  collection  of  native  fishes. 
This  Marine  Aquarium,  installed  in  1904,  has  20  sections  with 
35  different  species;  among  these,  flying  fish,  feather  fish, 
turtles,  moon  fish,  crabs,  sea-horses,  varieties  of  lobsters,  and 
of  marine  plants.  A  pavilion,  affording  opportunity  for  rest 
and  the  purchase  of  refreshments,  supplies  also  music  and 
moving  pictures.  The  garden,  which  is  much  frequented, 
was  designed  by  a  native  artist,  Valentina  da  Fonseca  e  Silva, 
more  familiarly  known  as  mestre  Valentine.  The  artistic 
decoration  includes  two  statues,  Apollo  and  Mercury,  the 
arms  of  Luiz  de  Vaseoncellos,  then  Viceroy,  the  bust  in  the 
fount  of  the  jacares,  and  two  granite  pyramids  inscribed 
1783,  A*  saudade  do  Rio  e  Ao  Amor  do  Publico. 

Busts  of  the  poets,  Gongalves  Dias,  and  Castro  Alves,  and 
of  the  journalist,  Ferreira  de  Aranjo,  founder  of  the  Gazeta 
de  NotidaSf  have  been  placed  in  the  garden.  At  the  main 
entrance  is  a  gilded  bronze  medallion  of  Queen  Maria  and 
her  consort,  Dom  Pedro  III. 

Among  the  important  streets  running  from  the  Pra§a  15th 
of  November  across  the  Avenida,  a  little  north  of  the  Hotel 
Avenida,  are  the  Assemblea  leading  to  the  Praga  da  Carioca, 
a  short  distance  from  the  Avenue,  and  the  rua  7th  of  Sep- 
tember leading  to  the  Praga  Tirandentes  farther  west.  The 
Garden  contains  an  admirable  statue,  by  the  French  sculptor 
Rochel,  of  Dom  Pedro  I,  founder  of  the  empire.  Continuing 
in  the  same  direction,  one  will  reach  the  large  and  beautiful 
Parque  da  BepuUica,  in  a  Pra§a  or  Square  of  the  same  name, 


EIO  DE  JANEIRO  325 

of  unusual  size  for  a  park  near  the  heart  of  the  business  sec- 
tion. Here  are  woods,  lakes,  and  streams  with  aquatic  birds, 
black  and  white  swans,  islands  and  rustic  bridges,  a  grotto 
with  a  pretty  cascade,  66,000  varieties  of  plants,  many  birds 
and  animals,  and  some  statuary. 

All  of  the  parks  are  characterized  by  luxuriant  tropical 
verdure. 

On  the  Praga,  south  of  the  Park,  is  an  immense  building, 
the  Firemen's  Barracks. 

To  the  northwest,  facing  a  paved  square,  is  the  great  Station 
of  the  Central  Railwwy,  with  tracks  running  into  three  dif- 
ferent states  and  to  forty  or  more  cities,  including  Sao  Paulo. 
Its  revenue  is  more  than  $10,000,000  a  year.  On  another 
side  of  the  Praga  facing  the  Park  is  the  Senate  House,  and 
the  Mint  with  an  imposing  fagade  and  some  fine  ornamen- 
tation in  bronze.  Other  buildings  on  the  sides  of  the  Praga 
are  the  Ministry  of  "War,  the  Barracks,  the  Normal  School, 
the  Foreign  Office,  the  Law  and  the  Medical  Schools,  and 
the  National  School  of  Music. 

From  the  northwest  corner  of  the  Park  two  parallel  streets 
run  westward,  the  Visconde  de  Itauna  and  Senador  Eusebio, 
to  the  Square  Onze  de  Junho,  whence  they  continue  at  the 
side  of  the  Canal  do  Mangue,  forming  a  grand  boulevard  with 
two  rows  of  royal  palms  on  each  side.  This  double  and 
channeled  avenue  has  one  sharp  bend,  turning  in  the  direction 
of  the  new  docks,  where  the  canal  empties  into  the  harbor. 
It  is  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length,  has  two  tracks  for  electric 
cars,  paved  ways  for  wagons,  and  broad  asphalt  for  automo- 
biles, to  which  the  central  stream  of  water  with  its  massive 
stone  embankments  and  the  superb  rows  of  palms  add  an 
unusual  beauty. 

The  Zoological  Garden,  admission  1$000  is  reached  by  elec- 
trics of  the  Villa  Isabel  line  from  the  Praga  15  de  Novembro, 
a  pleasant  ride.  Some  interesting  animals  are  on  view,  but  if 
time  is  limited,  it  may  be  better  employed  elsewhere. 

From  the  same  Square,  cars  marked  Sao  Christovao  go  to 
the  National  Museum  in  the  Quinta  de  Boa  Vista.  The 
Quinta,  a  fine  large  park,  deserves  a  visit,  the  Aquarium  (free) 
also,  even  should  the  Museum  be  closed,  as  has  long  been  the 
case,  for  the  purpose  of  extensive  alterations.  The  Museum, 


326  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

with  other  objects  has  a  good  collection  of  archaeological  and 
ethnographical  specimens.  A  famous  meteorite  of  unusual 
size,  named  Bendigo,  was  formerly  in  the  vestibule.  The  great 
building  was  earlier  the  winter  palace  of  Dom  Pedro  II.  It 
has  been  proposed  to  transfer  the  Zoological  Garden  to  this 
handsome  park. 

The  various  hills  remaining  in  the  center  of  the  city,  a 
few  have  been  completely  leveled,   give  variety   and   pie- 
turesqueness  to  its  topography,  although  interfering  some- 
what with  ease  of  locomotion  and  traffic.     Of  considerable 
height  and  steepness,  they  are  slender,  so  that  the  way  around 
is  not  over  long;  thus  in  the  opinion  of  the  tourist  who  has  an 
eye  for  scenic  beauty  they  are  not  to  be  regretted.    The 
energetic  person  with  a  little  time  to  spare  should  enjoy  the 
ascent  of  the  four  hills  which  are  near  the  Avenida,  and  of 
one  or  two  of  those  along  the  Beira  Mar.    Near  the  south 
end  of  the  Avenue,  a  little  back  of  the  Hotel  Avenida,  is 
the  Santo  Antonio  hill  surmounted  by  a  convent  of  that 
name.    The  main  entrance  is  from  the  rua  13th  of  May,  in 
a  narrow  passage  between  the  Santa  Theresa  Tramway  Sta- 
tion and  the  Government  Printing  Office  on  the  left.    The 
ancient  and  massive  structure  of  the  Convent,  built  rather 
to  defy  the  ravages  of  time  than  to  excite  admiration  for  its 
beauty,  has  outside  walls  on  the  ground  floor  4  feet  9  inches 
in  thickness.    The  vast  corridors  are  poorly  lighted.    Begun 
June  4,  1608,  the  construction  was  finished  in  1615.     The 
hill,  originally  Morro  do  Carmo,  later  took  its  name  from 
the  convent.    Of  the  Franciscan  Order,  the  convent  is  poor, 
but  the  fine  sacristy  is  worth  visiting.    Here  is  antique  and 
artistic  furniture,  such  as  is  rarely  seen,  carved  from  jacar- 
anda,  one  of  Brazil's  most  valuable  woods.    Here,  too,  is  a 
remarkable  wainscoting  of  blue  tile,  representing  incidents  in 
the  life  of  St.  Anthony,  paintings  on  wood,  a  staff  done  in 
gold  and  precious  stones  presented  by  the  Prince  Regent, 
another  from  the  Governor  of  Sacramento,  now  Uruguay,  and 
other  curiosities.    In  1855  an  imperial  decree  suspended  the 
novitiate  of  religious  orders ;  by  1886  but  one  member  of  the 
community  remained,-  in  1889,  with  the  establishment  of  the 
Republic,  religious  liberty  was  ordained,  other  friars  were 
admitted,  and  the  work  of  restoration  began.    In  a  large 


BIO  DE  JANEIRO  327 

saloon  of  the  convent  is  a  stone  slab  marking  the  burial  place 
of  John  Forbes  Skellater,  native  of  Scotland,  who  served  the 
Kings  of  Portugal  as  General  and  Councillor,  accompanying 
H.  R.  H.  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  where  he  died  April  8,  1808, 
at  the  age  of  76.  In  an  old  chapel  of  the  cloisters  is  a 
tomb  containing  the  remains  of  the  Prince  Pedro  Alfonso, 
son  of  the  Emperor,  Dom  Pedro  II.  ,  Several  pictures  by 
unknown  artists  remain  from  ancient  days. 

The  hill  on  the  other  side  of  the  Avenue,  also  south  of  rua 
Assemblea  is  Castello,  at  the  top  of  which  is  the  Astronomical 
Observatory  with  ruins  of  an  ancient  church.  The  easy  climb 
by  a  narrow  paved  roadway  is  well  worth  making  for  the  de- 
lightful view  from  the  summit  of  the  city  and  harbor  below, 
and  the  more  distant  mountains  in  the  rear. 

Near  the  foot  of  Castello  on  the  east  side,  facing  the  bay  on 
the  Praia  de  Santa  Luzia  is  Kisericordia  Hospital,  largest  of 
the  kind  in  South  America :  a  great  institution  with  57  doc- 
tors, 88  nurses  and  many  assistants.  In  1910,  12,171  cases 
were  treated  besides  154,600  outdoor  patients.  Among  other 
numerous  and  notable  philanthropic  institutions  is  the,  ad- 
mirable Institute  of  Protection  and  Assistance  to  Infants,  on 
rua  Visconde  do  Rio  Branco  12,  founded  by  Dr.  Moncorvo  Jr. 
in  1901 ;  accomplishing  a  great  work  in  the  surgical  and  medi- 
cal treatment  of  children  and  mothers,  and  in  propagating  in- 
formation as  to  hygiene.  It  received  a  Grand  Prize  at  the 
International  Exhibition  at  Rome  1912.  Equally  if  not  more 
distinguished  is  the  Pathological  Institute  Oswaldo  Cruz,  also 
founded  in  1901.  This,  outside  the  city  at  Maquinhos, 
reached  by  rail  or  water  in  45  minutes,  is  called  the  most  com- 
pletely equipped  in  the  world  for  such  work :  the  study  of  dis- 
ease germs,  the  preparation  of  serums,  etc.  Its  publications 
number  nearly  100.  The  smallpox  microbe  was  here  discov- 
ered. 

Near  the  north  end  of  the  Avenida  on  the  same  side  as  the 
Castello  is  the  Sao  Bento  hill,  at  the  extremity  of  the  rua 
Primeiro  de  Margo,  the  enclosure  of  the  Benedictine  Monastery 
above  being  entered  by  a  large  gateway  at  the  bottom  of  a 
flight  of  stone  steps.  Founded  in  1591,  the  existing  church 
was  built  between  1633  and  1642 ;  the  present  monastery  was 
begun  in  1652.  During  the  French  invasion  in  1711,  the 


328  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

buildings  were  seriously  damaged,  and  the  Order  contributed 
liberally  for  the  French  to  leave  the  town.  Nearly  half  the 
building  was  in  1732  destroyed  by  fire.  The  property,  till 
1827  belonging  to  the  Portuguese  Congregation,  was  then 
transferred  to  the  newly  organized  Brazilian  Congregation. 
In  1909  Sao  Bento  became  Abftadia  Nullius,  equivalent  to 
an  Archbishopric.  It  had,  in  1912,  20  monks  in  residence  and 
6  in  the  Rio  Branco  Mission  to  Indians  in  the  Amazon  region. 
The  monastery  has,  since  1858,  maintained  a  free  school  for 
boys,  primary  and  secondary,  with  400  pupils  now  in  attend- 
ance, and  with  500  in  a  night  school.  Lay  professors  assist 
and  many  distinguished  men  have  here  received  their  early 
education.  The  Order  is  very  wealthy,  owning  much  prop- 
erty in  the  middle  of  the  city.  It  formerly  owned  the  site 
of  the  Marine  Arsenal  and"  the  Hha  das  Cobras,  which  was 
purchased  in  1589  by  the  founder  of  the  monastery  for  15 
milreis,  about  $5.00.  In  the  revolt  of  the  Naval  Brigade, 
December,  1910,  on  the  Cobras  Island,  the  Government  forces 
made  use  of  the  monastery,  which  suffered  seriously  from  the 
return  fire.  The  church,  rich  in  carved  and  gilded  decora- 
tions, is  worth  a  visit.  It  contains  some  rare  furniture,  and 
an  ancient  organ  valuable  only  as  a  relic.  The  sacristy  and 
corridors  preserve  a  large  number  of  old  paintings.  One  of 
the  cells,  containing  fine  specimens  of  wood  work,  with  a  bed 
formerly  used  by  D.  Joao  VI,  is  for  the  especial  use  of  the 
Papal  Nuncio  when  he  descends  for  a  few  days  from  his  resi- 
dence in  Petropolis.  The  library  of  15,000  volumes  com- 
prises many  valuable  theological  works,  both  in  printing  and 
in  manuscript. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  Avenue,  near  the  same  north  end, 
is  the  Morro  da  Conceigao,  easily  ascended  from  rua  Acre 
by  a  paved  way  with  steps.  There  are  many  dwellings  on 
this  hill,  with  the  Palace  of  the  Cardinal  Archbishop  at  the 
top.  He  prefers,  however,  to  live  below  in  a  residence  in  the 
rua  do  Bispo.  Offices  adjoining  the  Cathedral,  in  the  7th 
of  September  street,  are  used  for  the  official  work.  Adjoin- 
ing the  Palace  grounds  on  the  hill  top  is  the  Fortaleza,  built 
in  1715.  Formerly  one  of  the  chief  points  in  the  defense  of 
the  city  it  is  now  used  as  a  barracks  for  an  infantry  regiment. 
The  watch  towers,  old  sentry  boxes,  and  the  dungeons  are  of 


EIO  DE  JANEIRO  329 

interest.  The  last  have  been  in  use,  even  since  the  founding 
of  the  Republic,  for  the  imprisonment  of  political  offenders ; 
in  1893-94,  British  subjects,  among  others,  were  here  im- 
mured. The  view  from  this  hill-top  over  the  city  is  the 
most  comprehensive  to  be  obtained  from  any  central  point. 


CHAPTER  XXXI 
BIO  BE  JAiraiRO— CONCLUDED 

Too  long,  mayhap,  have  we  lingered  in  the  heart  of  the 
city,  longer  I  fancy  than  any  tourist  will  do,  despite  the  at- 
tractions in  the  busy  marts  of  trade,  and  the  stately  edifices 
devoted  to  governmental,  artistic,  and  intellectual  purposes. 
The  great  charm  of  the  city,  the  feature  which  makes  it  incom- 
parable among  the  capitals  of  the  world,  is  the  number  of 
delightful  excursions  practicable  to  its  enchanting  suburbs. 
Some  of  these  may  be  visited  by  electric  car  or  automobile, 
as  the  length  of  one's  purse  prescribes,  others  by  boat,  and 
one  by  cog  railway. 

Most  persons  will  be  tempted  to  improve  the  very  first 
afternoon  by  a  ride  along  the  front  of  the  bay,  on  the 
unrivaled  Beira  Mar,  from  the  Monroe  Palace  on  the  Avenida 
to  the  foot  of  the  Pao  do  Assucar,  a  ride  without  parallel, 
even  on  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean.  This  magnificent 
boulevard  invites  also  to  a  promenade,  for  a  broad  walk 
guarded  by  a  handsome  railing  tops  the  massive  sea  wall, 
which  rises  15  feet  above  the  wave-sprinkled  rocks  below. 
Rarely,  indeed,  the  waves  rise  higher.  July  12th,  1911,  a 
heavy  wind  blowing  from  the  south  not  only  dashed  breakers 
high  above  the  wall,  but  with  these  sent  stones  weighing  a  ton 
over  upon  the  boulevard.  Next  to  the  promenade  come  two 
wide  asphalt  spaces,  separated  by  a  strip  of  grass  and  a  row 
of  trees,  for  automobiles  going  in  opposite  directions, 
thronged  towards  evening  with  swiftly  moving  machines.  A 
garden  strip  of  varying  width  follows,  beautiful  shrubbery, 
brilliant  coleas,  and  other  plants  with  leaves  of  varied  hue, 
gorgeous  red  salvias,  geraniums,  and  other  showy  flowers. 
Now  comes  the  wide  paved  street  with  ample  space  for  ordi- 
nary vehicles  and  for  the  double  tracks  of  the  electric  cars. 

330 


RIO  DE  JANEIRO  .  331 

A  few  minutes  from  the  Monroe  Palace,  and  almost  in  front 
of  the  Pensao  Suissa  is  the  Praga  da  Gloria  where  Cattete 
street  branches  from  the  Beira  Mar.  The  very  pretty  Garden 
contains  two  notable  monuments:  one  of  these  to  Pedro  Al- 
vares  Cabral,  discoverer  of  Brazil,  by  Eodolpho  Bernadelli, 
Director  of  the  School  of  Fine  Arts.  This  monument  inau- 
gurated in  1900,  the  fourth  centenary  of  the  Discovery,  rep- 
resents with  Cabral  the  chronicler,  Pero  Vaz  Caminha,  and 
the  Franciscan,  Henrique  de  Coimbra,  who  celebrated  the  first 
mass  on  the  soil  of  South  America.  The  other  monument, 
dedicated  in  1902,  is  a  statue  of  Visconde  do  Eio  Branco  by  the 
French  sculptor,  Charpentier.  The  ascent  of  the  Gloria  hill 
close  by  is  worth  while  for  the  splendid  panorama  from  the 
summit,  if  not  for  the  little  church  above  where  on  the  15th 
of  August  is  a  festival. 

Beyond  the  Gloria  hill  are  finer  residences  with  pretty  gar- 
dens, distracting  attention  from  the  view  of  the  Sugar  Loaf  in 
front,  the  silvery  waters  on  the  left,  the  city  of  Nietheroy  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  and  the  curving  inlets  of  both 
shores.  On  account  of  a  projecting  hill  the  car  tracks  leave 
the  water's  edge  for  a  space,  passing  back  to  the  Largo  do 
Machado,  where  the  offices  of  the  railway  are  situated,  the 
place  to  go  for  lost  articles.  After  passing  the  Hotel  dos  Es- 
trangeiros,  the  boulevard  is  soon  regained  on  the  Botafogo 
Bay,  a  lovely  geometrical  curve.  Again  leaving  the  shore  the 
car  marked  Ministro  de  Agriculture,  alone  returns  to  the  Praia 
de  Saudade,  on  which  the  great  Hospital  for  the  Insane  is 
passed,  the  Institute  Benjamin  Constant  for  the  Blind,  and  the 
imposing  building  of  the  Ministry  of  Agriculture,  the  cars  at 
length  pausing  in  front  of  the  Military  School  Building, 
which  stands  by  the  ocean  shore ;  we  have  now  passed  beyond 
the  splendid  Sugar  Loaf,  so  that  in  the  rear  of  the  School 
Building  we  should  find  the  Praia  Vermelha,  a  beach  on  the 
great  ocean.  An  Aerial  Railway  now  serves  for  a  trip  to  the 
tip  top  of  the  pinnacle,  Pao  do  Assucar,  whence  a  delightful 
view  is  obtained  of  city,  bay,  and  ocean.  The  same  Praia 
Vermelha  car  passes  the  base  station  whence  an  electric  basket 
cable  car  accommodating  twenty  persons  goes,  first  to  the 
Morro  da  Urea,  return  ticket  2$000,  then  on  to  the  top  of  the 
Pao  do  Assueax,  return  ticket  probably  4$000.  The  journey 


332  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

to  the  top  is  made  in  twelve  minutes.    The  distance  is  nearly 
a  mile. 

Other  rides  partly  along  the  front,  or  on  Cattete  street  paral- 
lel to  the  Beira  Mar,  should  be  taken  to  the  various  suburban 
ocean  beaches  of  Leme,  Copacabana,  Ipanema,  and  Gavea, 
backed  by  picturesque  hills,  through  which  a  tunnel  or  two 
has  been  bored  for  more  direct  access.  Some  of  the  beaches, 
though  rather  dangerous  for  bathing,  are  more  or  less  pat- 
ronized. Many  people  wander  along  the  shore,  or  in  pavilions 
regale  themselves  with  beer  or  coffee.  Villas  of  the  wealthy 
and  a  sprinkling  of  poorer  houses,  with  several  hotels  and 
restaurants,  show  provision  for  all  classes.  Everywhere  in 
the  residential  districts  outside  of  the  more  crowded  central 
portion,  attention  will  be  continually  drawn  to  the  charming 
homes,  some  of  quite  palatial  dimensions  and  elegance,  the 
majority  more  modest  but  generally  with  some  pretty  orna- 
mentation, all  apparently  freshly  painted  in  varied  and  deli- 
cate shades  of  color,  pink,  blue,  green,  lavender,  pearl,  buff, 
Alice  blue,  etc.,  embowered  among  vines,  shrubbery,  and 
palms :  an  unceasing  source  of  pleasure. 

On  the  way  to  the  beaches  by  the  rua  Cattete,  before  reach- 
ing the  Strangers  *  Hotel,  the  President's  Palace  may  be  ob- 
served on  the  left.  The  large  garden  extends  through  to  the 
boulevard  along  the  Praia  de  Flamengo,  but  the  entrance  is 
from  Cattete.  The  exterior  of  the  Palace,  which  was  con- 
structed by  the  Baron  of  Nova  Friburgo  and  later  purchased 
by  the  Government,  is  not  noteworthy,  but  the  interior  has 
magnificent  decorations ;  the  garden  would  be  a  fitting  acces- 
sory of  a  royal  palace.  Next  to  the  Palace  is  the  beautiful 
school  building,  Rodriguez  Alves,  a  suitable  monument  to 
the  great  President  of  Brazil,  in  whose  administration  was 
inaugurated  the  tremendous  undertaking  by  which  the  city 
has  been  transformed. 

Not  far  from  the  Hotel  Estrangeiros,  a  beautiful  avenue 
lined  with  royal  palms,  half  a  mile  long,  leads  to  a  fine  man- 
sion, which  in  1911  was  the  residence  of  the  President. 

In  a  long  afternoon  of  four  or  five  hours  the  entire  circuit 
of  the  city  may  be  made  by  automobile  along  the  Beira  Mar 
on  the  shore  of  the  bay,  then  past  the  ocean  beaches  to  the 
mountains  and  by  a  splendid  road  along  the  mountain-side 


RESIDENCE  OF  THE  PRESIDENT 


BOTANICAL  GARDENS 


RIO  DE  JANEIEO  333 

past  Gavea  and  Tijuea,  thence  across  to  the  waterfront,  and 
by  the  docks  returning  to  the  Avenida  Central ;  a  circuit  with 
varied  panorama  such  as  no  other  city  of  the  world  affords, 
to  which  an  entire  day  might  better  be  devoted. 

The  Botanical  Garden,  long  celebrated  as  possessing  the 
finest  collection  of  tropical  plants  among  the  parks  of  the 
world,  was  founded  in  1808  by  Dom  Joao  VI  when  Prince 
Regent  of  Portugal.  At  the  Avenida  Station,  a  car  marked 
Gavea  may  be  taken  about  once  in  ten  minutes.  The  route 
is  at  first  a  familiar  one,  near  the  shore  of  the  bay,  but  turns 
at  length  to  the  west,  passing  presently  under  the  steep  walls 
of  Corcovado  on  the  right  and  near  the  shore  of  a  consider- 
able lake,  the  Lagoa  Rodrigues  de  Freitas  on  the  left,  a  ride 
for  which  the  three-quarters  of  an  hour  required  is  none  too 
long.  Within  the  gateway,  flanked  by  small  office  buildings, 
one  is  confronted  by  a  splendid  avenue  of  superb  palms,  150 
in  number,  extending  in  a  straight  line  nearly  half  a  mile. 
The  tree  trunks,  a  yard  in  diameter  at  the  base,  are  straight 
shafts  75  feet  high,  ere  they  are  topped  by  their  leafage 
crown.  Some  distance  up,  this  avenue  is  crossed  by  another 
of  140  palms,  a  fountain  adorning  the  square  of  intersection. 
These  palms,  with  all  those  forming  colonnades  in  other  parts 
of  the  city,  are  descendants  of  the  ancient  tree  which  was 
planted  by  D.  Joao  VI.  The  story  goes  that  some  Brazilian 
officers,  shipwrecked,  were  carried  to  the  Isle  of  France,  where 
was  a  fine  botanical  garden.  One  of  the  officers,  Luiz  de 
Abreu,  after  gaining  possession  of  several  choice  specimens, 
managed  to  escape  with  them.  Returning  to  Brazil  he  pre- 
sented them  to  Dom  Joao,  who,  transferring  them  to  the  Gar- 
den, planted  with  his  own  hands  the  seed  of  the  Royal  Palm. 
The  tree  still  standing,  130  feet  high,  apparently  destined  to 
flourish  for  some  time  longer,  is  marked  by  an  inscription, 
and  will  be  pointed  out  by  an  attendant  if  overlooked.  It 
is  not,  of  course,  in  any  of  the  rows.  Besides  hundreds  of 
varieties  of  Brazilian  plants,  the  Garden  contains  as  many 
from  all  parts  of  the  world;  it  maintains  close  relations  with 
other  Gardens,  sending  to  them  hundreds  of  thousands  of 
seeds,  as  well  as  making  extensive  distribution  in  various  parts 
of  Brazil.  A  delightful  section  at  the  left  of  the  entrance 
is  called  the  Bamboo  Salon,  where  a  walk  under  the  feathery 


334  THE  SOUTH  AMBEICAN  TOUE 

archway  recalls  the  aisle  of  a  Gothic  cathedral.  Of  great 
interest  is  the  traveler's  tree,  somewhat  resembling  a  banana 
plant,  of  which  the  sap  is  like  pure  cold  water.  The  gentle- 
man who  showed  me  about,  kindly  cut  the  stalk  with  his  knife. 
I  drank  as  the  sap  spouted  forth,  and  found  it  indis- 
tinguishable from  clear  water.  If  the  tree  would  grow  in 
desert  regions,  what  a  godsend  to  the  thirsty  traveler !  The 
victoria  regia  with  its  great  leaves,  four  or  five  feet  in  diame- 
ter floating  on  the  water  is  always  noteworthy,  even  if  it  is 
not  the  flowering  season,  there  May  or  June.  Naturally 
rubber  trees  of  many  varieties  are  to  be  seen,  coffee 
shrubs,  tea  plants,  and  others  in  profusion,  both  useful  and 
beautiful,  a  wealth  of  vines,  but  fewer  orchids,  at  least  in 
blossom,  than  I  had  hoped.  The  candelabra  tree,  so  called 
from  its  shape,  and  the  cow  tree,  which  supplies  a  kind 
of  milk  better  for  making  cement  than  for  drinking,  are 
of  interest.  An  especial  curiosity  is  one  tree  growing 
inside  of  another,  the  trunk  of  the  palm  being  almost  com- 
pletely surrounded  by  the  trunk  of  another  tree  of  entirely 
different  character,  botli  trees  now  30  or  40  feet  high. 

A  number  of  pretty  pavilions,  a  lake,  grottoes,  and  cascades 
contribute  to  adorn  the  Garden,  also  several  monuments  and 
statues.  One  of  the  monuments  is  in  memory  of  the  real 
founder  of  the  Garden,  Frei  Leandro  do  Sacramento,  Pro- 
fessor of  Botany  in  the  Faculty  of  Medicine,  a  distinguished 
scholar,  who  on  his  death  in  1829  left  the  Garden  in  a  flourish- 
ing condition.  At  the  end  of  the  central  avenue  of  palms, 
the  monument,  Dea  Palmarisy  was  inaugurated  in  1906. 
There  are  various  statues  of  nymphs,  a  temple  of  Nike,  a 
Belvedere,  a  colonial  portico,  and  the  first  statue  ever  cast  in 
Brazil,  this  in  1783  by  Valentim  da  Fonseca  e  Silva.  In  one 
of  the  buildings  by  the  gate  is  a  herbarium  of  great  value, 
as  also  a  library.  Even  unscientific  persons  with  no  especial 
interest  in  botany  may  enjoy  a  long  afternoon  wandering  in 
the  delightful  walks,  the  charm  of  which  is  increased  by  the 
wooded  steeps  and  grim  cliffs  of  Corcovado  just  above,  seeing 
here  the  side  of  Corcovado  precisely  opposite  to  the  one  visible 
from  the  center  of  the  city.  One  may  leave  the  Garden  in 
time  to  continue  the  short  distance  to  the  end  of  the  line  to 
Gavea,  where  there  is  a  noted  spring  of  water  of  excellent 


EIO  DE  JANEIRO  335 

quality.  From  a  spot  called  Boa  Vista,  a  short  climb,  the 
panorama  is  superb.  The  headlands,  Dous  Irmaos,  are  at  the 
left,  the  shores  ever  beaten  by  angry  waves;  in  front  is  the 
broad  ocean  dotted  with  islands,  one  named  Rosa  bearing  a 
lighthouse;  on  the  right  imposing  Gavea,  on  whose  face  near 
the  summit  may  be  distinguished  lines  believed  to  have  been 
traced  by  some  primitive  people.  The  name  Gavea,  meaning 
topsail,  is  derived  from  the  shape  of  the  summit.  Its  ascent 
is  possible  from  the  side  towards  Tijuca  and  has  several  times 
been  made. 

Corcovado.  Most  delightful  to  many  of  all  the  days  to 
be  spent  at  Rio  will  be  that  which  is  devoted  to  the  As- 
cent of  Corcovado;  nor  should  it  long  be  postponed.  The  first 
clear  day  or  afternoon  should  be  improved,  as  at  some  sea- 
sons clouds  are  frequent.  Even  setting  out  with  a 
cloudless  sky,  one  may  find  the  goal  shrouded  in  mist, 
or  spread  out  below  a  mantle  of  softest  sheen  conceal- 
ing in  part  or  whole  the  glorious  prospect  beneath.  There 
is  a  choice  of  two  routes  to  the  summit:  both  I  strongly 
recommend;  every  one  should  go  twice;  but  with  time  so 
limited  that  a  single  trip  may  be  made  it  is  desirable  to  go 
one  way  and  return  the  other.  The  Sylvestre  route  begins  by 
electric  car,  starting  every  half  hour  from  the  Largo  da 
Carioca  back  of  the  Avenida  Hotel.  The  other,  longer  or 
shorter,  according  to  the  point  of  departure,  is  all  by  cog- 
wheeled  railway;  but  the  base  station  is  35  or  40  minutes 
from  the  Avenida.  One  takes  here  or  farther  out  a  car 
marked  Cosme  Velho  or  Larangeiras  to  the  pretty  station 
among  the  Santa  Theresa  hills,  passing  on  the  way  the  fa- 
miliar Estrangeiros  and  Largo  Machado,  there  turning  to  the 
right  on  Larangeiras,  a  street  as  yet  unfamiliar.  Near  the 
end  of  the  line  on  the  left  is  the  station,  return  ticket  3 
milreis,  where  one  enters  a  car  open  at  the  sides  with  suf- 
ficiently comfortable  seats  if  you  face  upwards.  The  track, 
one  meter  wide,  about  two  miles  long,  crosses  the  valley  of 
the  Sylvestre  stream  on  an  iron  viaduct  of  three  arches,  each 
80  feet  wide,  supported  on  iron  pillars  with  a  masonry  base, 
then  enters  a  deep  trench,  later  crossing  two  more  bridges. 

At  the  first  station,  Sylvestre,  those  board  the  train  who 
have  come  by  electrics  to  this  point.  The  latter,  after  a  few 


336  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

rods  of  steep  grade  from  Carioca,  wind  along  the  side  of  San 
Antonio  Hill  in  gradual  ascent,  then  cross  on  the  picturesque 
double  arches  of  the  old  viaduct  to  the  outlying  hill  of  the 
Santa  Thereza  ridge.  Swiftly  speeds  the  car  affording  but 
fleeting  glimpses  of  the  busy  streets  and  the  houses  below. 
Winding  along  the  hillside,  soon  passing  the  International 
Hotel,  with  many  level  stretches  and  moderate  inclines,  the  out- 
look above  or  below  is  enchanting.  Any  description  must  fall 
far  short  of  the  reality.  The  conjunction  of  a  great  city  with 
picturesque  scenery,  pellucid  bays,  ragged  cliffs,  and  tropical 
vegetation  is  unparalleled.  One  sits  enthralled  with  the 
vision  of  loveliness.  One's  entire  vocabulary  of  adjectives 
such  as  exquisite,  entrancing,  magnificent,  sublime,  crowd 
upon  the  mind,  A  short  distance  away  towers  the  massive 
Sugar  Loaf,  its  cliffs  so  steep  and  smooth  that  apparently  even 
a  fly  would  find  no  foothold,  unless  with  a  liberal  supply  of 
Spalding's  glue  upon  his  little  toes.  My  cry  was  not  "0  for 
the  wings  of  a  dove!"  but  for  the  pen  of  my  gifted  friends, 
Aked  or  Gifford,  to  attempt  the  glowing  description  the  scenes 
deserve.  Here  are  trees  with  great  bunches  of  yellow  flowers, 
somewhat  resembling  wistaria,  but  with  a  very  artificial  look. 
Many  trees  bear  large  scarlet  flowers.  One  below  is  covered 
with  white  blossoms.  Pretty  villas  and  gardens  are  passed, 
the  dwellings,  pink,  blue,  green,  and  terra  cotta.  In  bright 
sunshine  smoked  glasses  may  seem  desirable  to  eyes  not  espe- 
cially strong.  As  we  skirt  the  hillside  in  many  curves,  the 
city  below  is  now  on  our  right,  the  gleaming  bay,  and  curving 
shore;  the  next  moment  the  steep  slopes  or  cliffs  above;  and 
now  we  move  through  a  dense  and  quiet  forest.  A  good  car- 
riage road  is  here  by  the  side  of  the  track.  A  happy  couple  is 
occasionally  seen  strolling  on  a  sequestered  path.  In  January 
it  was  too  warm  to  enjoy  a  climb,  but  a  leisurely  descent  would 
at  any  time  be  a  pleasure.  In  winter,  June,  July,  and  August, 
the  ascent  would  be  equally  agreeable,  and  the  opportunity 
to  pause  and  enjoy  the  charming  vistas  no  one  could  fail  to 
appreciate. 

At  Sylvestre,  about  700  feet  altitude,  where  the  transfer  is 
made  to  the  cog-wheeled  railway,  there  is  a  little  hotel  where 
a  cup  of  tea  may  be  enjoyed  and  a  short  walk  taken,  unless 
close  connection  is  made.  In  this  case  you  must  run  across 


CORCOVADO  FROM  THE  BOULEVARD  BEIRA  MAR 


THROUGH  THE  CLOUDS,   FROM    CORCOVADO 


EIO  DB  JANEIEO  337 

the  track  to  the  booth  where  tickets  are  sold,  buying  for  the 
round  trip  unless  minded  to  walk  down;  an  excellent  idea, 
as  the  time  allowed  above  is  short.  Descending  on  foot  to 
Sylvestre  a  car  may  there  be  taken  every  half-hour.  The 
hours  of  the  train  on  the  cog  railway  should  be  carefully 
investigated,  as  they  are  few,  and  vary  with  the  season;  on 
week  days  formerly  10  and  2,  on  Sundays  nearly  every  hour 
but  the  last  descending  at  5.  Now  on  the  cog-wheeled  road, 
the  grade  is  at  times  so  heavy  that  if  riding  backwards  you 
must  brace  or  hang  on,  lest  you  slip  from  the  seat.  The  train 
is  run  by  electricity  with  four  cables  and  an  engine.  Six 
kinds  of  brakes  may  be  relied  upon  in  case  of  accident;  they 
never  occur  on  this  line,  but  occasionally  on  the  tramway. 
Thick  woods  and  a  tangle  of  vines  now  mostly  shut  out  the 
distant  prospect,  but  these  are  fascinating.  Mosses,  ferns, 
and  lichens,  forest  palms,  tendril-draped  trees  with  every 
shade  of  green,  orchids,  begonias,  and  other  blossoms,  trickling 
waters,  narrow  forest  paths,  sudden  glimpses  of  the  shimmer- 
ing bay,  of  dark  tree-tops,  of  massive  cliffs  below,  or  of  craggy 
peak  above,  make  every  moment  a  delight.  At  the  station 
Paneiras,  alt.,  1500  feet,  is  the  Hotel  Corcovado,  with  restau- 
rant service  at  all  hours  and  comfortable  rooms,  a  resort  for 
convalescents  and  others.  It  has  a  temperature  15°  or  18° 
lower  than  in  the  city  and  delightful  shady  walks.  At  a 
little  distance  a  clearing  affords  a  wonderful  outlook.  The 
track  ends  at  the  foot  of  a  cliff  whence  a  good  path  of  rather 
steep  grade  leads  to  the  summit  100  feet  above,  crowned  by 
the  usual  pavilion.  This  stands  quite  2200  feet  above  the  sur- 
face of  the  bay.  One  hardly  pauses  here,  but  descending 
a  few  steps  goes  on  to  the  very  end,  the  brink  of  the  perpen- 
dicular cliff  on  the  south  side,  with  a  sheer  drop  of  1700  feet, 
well  protected  by  a  substantial  wall  with  a  seat  for  the  feeble 
or  the  loiterer.  And  who  would  not  loiter  here,  with  this 
beautiful  vision  spread  out  beneath!  A  panorama  of  sur- 
passing loveliness!  Oh,  read  Miss  Cameron's  Involuntary 
Chaperone!  and  you  may  gain  some  small  idea  of  the  enchant- 
ing scenes.  In  afternoon  light,  in  sunset  glow,  in  the  quiet 
evening  with  the  twinkling  lights  below  and  the  serene  moon 
above,  this  is  a  paradise  for  lovers,  a  fairy  land  for  all. 
The  view  from  Tijuca  more  beautiful!  [Who  at  Corco- 


338  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUE 

yado  can  believe  it  ?  Not  I !  But  so  some  have  said.  There- 
fore to  Tijuca  must  one  go  if  possible.  The  electric  cars 
marked  Tijuca,  which  run  from  Praga  15th  of  November 
along  rua  Assemblea  to  the  suburb,  may  be  taken  for  the  ex- 
cursion. The  ride  is  through  a  very  different  section,  by  the 
Canal  do  Mangue,  then  through  clean  streets,  lined  by  com- 
fortable dwellings  of  the  middle  class,  some  more  pretentious 
with  pretty  gardens,  nearly  all  painted  in  delicate  shades  of 
gay  colors.  In  the  really  suburban  section  are  many  fine 
villas,  and  after  a  gradual  ascent  among  the  hills  one  descends 
6  miles  from  the  Avenida,  at  a  park,  alt.  1000  ft.,  called  Boa 
Vista,  on  one  side  of  which  is  a  hotel;  also  an  establishment 
where  saddle  horses  may  be  procured,  perchance  an  automo- 
bile, for  the  continuance  of  the  journey.  These  are  rather 
expensive  5  a  carriage  for  an  hour  costs  20  milreis,  nearly  $7.00, 
an  auto  of  course  more.  Walks,  however,  may  be  taken  to 
many  pretty  spots.  A  few  steps  from  the  Square  is  a  charm- 
ing outlook  over  city  and  bay.  At  the  farther  side  of  the 
Square  begins  the  Tijuca  forest,  and  following  the  road  one 
soon  reaches  (perhaps  ten  minutes)  a  picturesque  little  cas- 
cade. This  road  may  be  pursued  on  foot  or  horseback  in  3 
or  4  hours  to  the  top  of  the  mountain;  alt.  3300  feet,  from 
which  is  the  superior  view  above  mentioned.  Other  pretty 
spots  to  be  visited  in  a  drive  of  two  or  three  hours  are  the 
Grotto  of  Paul  and  Virginia,  the  Grand  Cascade,  the  Chinese 
View,  the  Emperor's  TaNe,  the  Excelsior,  the  Solidao,  etc. 
The  Furnas  at  a  distance  of  two  miles  is  a  fantastic  arrange- 
ment of  rocks  and  boulders,  where  an  interesting  garden  has 
been  established.  The  road  which  passes  the  Vista  Chineza 
and  the  Emperor's  Table  leads  down  to  the  Botanical  Garden 
through  the  rua  Dona  Castorina.  Best  of  all  is  to  make  a 
day  of  it  by  automobile  from  the  city,  ascending  the  peak  on 
foot  or  horseback,  visiting  all  the  points  of  interest,  and  tak- 
ing the  glorious  ride  around  by  Gavea  and  the  Botanical  Gar- 
dens on  the  return. 

PETBOPOLIS 

HOTELS.    Europa,  Rio  de  Janeiro  (German),  Pensao  Central,  ex- 
pensive.   Braganza  Hotel,  Meyer's  Pension,  moderate. 

An  excursion  to  Petropolis  (return  ticket  4$)  should  not  be 


PBTEOPOLIS  339 

omitted,  a  city  of  25,000,  the  residence  of  the  diplomats, 
formerly  the  summer  home  of  the  Emperor.  Once  it  was 
necessary  to  cross  the  bay  to  Maua  to  take  the  train ;  the  road 
from  this  point  to  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  opened  in  1856, 
is  the  oldest  in  Brazil.  "While  the  steamboat  ride  was  agree- 
able, it  is  more  convenient  to  take  the  train  at  the  Leopoldina 
Railway  Station  in  the  city,  rather  far  out,  indeed;  and  at 
least  three-quarters  of  an  hour  should  be  allowed  to  reach  it. 
Almost,  in  spite  of  a  sharp  run,  I  lost  my  train,  which  my 
companion  did  quite.  After  some  miles  over  the  plain,  the 
rack  and  pinion  system  is  employed  for  the  climb,  almost  to 
the  city;  when  ordinary  motors  are  again  used.  The  ascent 
is  delightful,  with  an  ever  charming  outlook,  better  perhaps 
on  the  right,  but  there  should  be  observation  cars  in  order  to 
look  both  ways  at  once.  The  sea  is  occasionally  visible,  oftener 
only  the  luxuriant  vegetation,  trailing  vines,  feathery  ferns, 
brilliant  blossoms,  great  trees,  splendid  rocks,  and  mountain 
streams.  An  occasional  factory  is  rather  a  surprise,  but  with 
all  this  water  power,  why  not  ?  This  Serra  da  Estrella  is  a 
part  of  the  Organ  Mts.  and  of  the  Serra  do  Mar  or  Coast 
Eange  of  Brazil.  Among  the  hills  around,  orchid  hunters 
find  many  treasures.  Petropolis,  in  the  social  season  from 
December  to  May,  is  a  resort  of  wealth  and  fashion,  a  scene 
of  gayety,  the  many  beautiful  homes  filled  with  guests. 
Founded  in  1845  as  an  agricultural  colony  by  2000  Germans, 
it  became  the  headquarters  of  the  Diplomatic  Corps  on  ac- 
count of  the  yellow  fever  epidemics  at  Rio.  The  residence  of 
twenty  foreign  diplomats  has  made  the  place  important  for  its 
size.  Now  that  the  sanitary  conditions  of  Rio  are  of  the  very 
best  it  is  possible  that  the  diplomats  may  resume  residence 
in  the  capital  below.  A  pretty  and  unusual  feature  of 
Petropolis  is  the  stream  flowing  in  several  of  the  principal 
streets,  crossed  by  graceful  bridges  of  wood  or  of  iron,  with 
stone  embankments  partially  vine-clad,  and  beautiful  over- 
hanging trees.  There  are  delightful  drives,  both  in  the  town 
and  in  the  mountainous  region  about.  The  wide  streets  of 
the  town,  often  fringed  with  magnolias,  are  bordered  by  many 
handsome  residences  amid  lawns  and  gardens  with  rich  trop- 
ical verdure.  A  bronze  monument  to  Pedro  II  was  dedicated 
February,  1911.  The  American  Embassy  is  housed  in  a  fine 


340  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOTJE 

old  mansion  on  beautiful  grounds.  The  former  summer  resi- 
dence of  Dom  Pedro  II,  property  of  the  Countess  d'Eu,  is 
now  a  College  of  St.  Vincent  de  Paul.  The  city  has  unusual 
educational  advantages  and  many  commercial  enterprises. 
There  is  much  social  gayety  in  the  season,  but  during  the 
months  of  the  rainy  weather  the  fashionables  depart  The 
City  Hall  is  noted  as  the  best  in  the  state. 

Another  city  on  the  mountains,  of  slightly  greater  elevation, 
is  Nova  Fnburgo,  three  hours  from  Nictheroy.  With  an 
elevation  of  about  3000  feet  it  enjoys  a  perfect  climate.  The 
oldest  immigrant  colony  in  Brazil,  it  was  founded  by  1700 
Swiss  in  1819.  This  also  is  a  famous  summer  resort  and  is 
the  center  of  a  productive  coffee  district. 

Another  interesting  mountain  city  is  Therezopolis,  also  3000 
feet  above  the  sea,  commanding  delightful  views  of  the  ravines 
and  cascades  of  the  Organ  Mts.  and  of  the  beautiful  bay  far 
below. 

An  excursion  to  Nictheroy,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Rio 
de  Janeiro,  should  not  be  omitted.  It  is  easily  made  from  the 
Caes  Pharoux,  by  ferry  every  half -hour.  With  a  population 
of  35,000,  it  is  a  nice  quiet  town,  with  well  paved  streets  and 
pretty  squares.  From  the  ferry  landing  electric  cars  may 
be  taken  to  the  charming  beaches  of  Icarahy  and  Sacco  do  Sao 
Francisco,  the  latter  with  a  beach  rivaling  Trouville ;  the  ride 
around  by  one  of  the  promontories  is  thoroughly  delightful. 
The  return  may  be  made  through  the  town  of  Nictheroy, 
which  has  some  handsome  public  buildings. 

Equally  if  not  more  desirable  is  a  sail  into  the  inner  har- 
bor. From  Caes  Pharous  boats  go  four  times  daily  to  the 
Island  Paqueta,  also  to  the  Governador;  (fare  to  either  500 
reis  each  way).  The  former  island  is  especially  picturesque, 
with  charming  embowered  chalets.  On  Sunday  afternoons,  a 
three  hours'  sail  may  be  taken;  fare  1$500. 


UNITED    STATES    EMBASSY,   PETROPOLIS 


STREET     WITH    RIVER 


CHAPTER  XXXII 
NORTHERN  BEAZIL-HOMEWAED 

THE  large  majority  of  tourists  will  embark  at  Eio  on  one 
of  the  fine  large  steamers  of  the  Lamport  and  Holt  Line  for 
New  York.  Eeturn  may  also  be  made  by  way  of  England 
on  a  Royal  Mail  boat.  A  few  may  desire  a  more  extended 
acquaintance  with  Brazil.  Some  facts  are  therefore  presented 
in  regard  to  other  States  of  this  immense  Republic  and  the 
facilities  for  visiting  them. 

Mrnas  Geraes.    One  inclined  to  journey  into  the  interior,  to 
the  rich  gold  and  diamond  region  in  the  State  of  Minos  Geraes, 
may  go  by  the   Central  Railway  400  miles  north  to  the 
capital   of   Minas,    Bella   Horizonte,   a    made-to-order   city, 
not  twenty  years  of  age,  but  with  a  population  of  30,000, 
already  a  fine  town  for  its  size.    While  this  State  has  no  sea- 
board, no  rubber,  and  no  city  of  50,000  inhabitants,  it  has  a 
larger  population  than  any  other  State  of  Brazil  and  than 
most  of  the  countries  of  South  America.    This  is  due  to  its 
good  climate  and  excellent  waters,  as  well  as  to  its  rich 
resources.    The    author   Diaz   says:    /'In   this    State   what 
doesn't  hide  gold  contains  iron,-  what  does  not  contain  coal 
spreads  diamonds."    Here  for  a  century  80,000  men  toiled 
to  supply  gold  to  the  kings  of  Portugal.    Discovered  in  1699, 
the  output  of  the  gold  mines  at  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth 
century  was  at  its  height.     Five  thousand  pounds  weight  is 
said  to  have  been  panned  in  one  year  in  the  area  of  one  square 
mile;  in  another  place  100  pounds  in  one  night;  360,000 
pounds  weight  were  registered  in  Rio  in  1792.    The  entire  out- 
put has  been  about  one  billion  dollars.    In  the  nineteenth 
century  less  was  produced  on  account  of  a  heavy  tax,  new 
methods,  and  uncertainty  as  to  property  rights  and  mining 
laws.    At  present  there  is  a  revival  and  a  good  outlook.    The 
oldest  producing  gold  mine  in  the  world  is  said  to  be  the 

341 


342  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUE 

Morro  Velho,  between  Ouro  Preto  and  Bello  Horizonte,  yield- 
ing one  ounce  to  the  ton  and  80,000  ounces  a  year. 

The  diamond  mines  of  Jequitinhonha  Valley,  famous  for 
two  centuries,  were  discovered  in  1729.  The  Regent  diamond, 
weighing  nearly  an  ounce,  found  by  three  convicts  in  1791, 
secured  their  pardon.  The  Estrella  do  Sul,  now  belonging 
to  the  Rajah  of  Baroda,  picked  up  by  a  slave  who  gave  it  for 
his  freedom,  was  the  highest  ransom  ever  paid  for  liberty. 
Weighing  uncut  250  carats,  about  half  that  when  cut,  it  is 
worth  $15,000,000.  The  center  of  the  industry 'is  the  town 
Diamantina  (population  10,000),  600  miles  from  Rio.  Black 
diamonds  are  found,  also  amethysts,  tourmaline,  topaz,  aqua- 
marines, garnets,  chrysolites,  etc.,  in  many  places. 

Ouro  Preto,  the  center  of  the  manganese  industry,  yields 
annually  250,000  tons  of  55  per  cent  ore.  Iron,  found  in 
every  part  of  Minas,  for  lack  of  fuel,  is  not  exploited.  Plat- 
inum has  been  found  and  there  is  a  great  variety  of  granite 
and  marble,  agates,  onyx,  and  rock  crystal,  mica,  graphite, 
cinnabar,  and  asbestos.  Ouro  Preto,  the  former  capital,  has 
a  mining  school,  organized  in  1903,  said  to  be  one  of  the  best 
in  the  world,  with  instruction  free ;  the  museum  contains  a  rare 
collection.  The  State  is  thought  to  have  a  future  rivaling 
that  of  Australia  and  Kimberley. 

The  old  capital,  of  which  Diaz  says:  "In  six  squares 
everything  is  in  the  horizontal  plan,  but  the  52  streets  and 
lanes  go  through  tortuous  and  aceidented  places  as  if  they 
were  acrobats/'  was  at  length  deemed  unsuitable;  the  State 
was  investigated  for  a  new  one ;  the  site  of  a  hamlet  in  a  beau- 
tiful valley  was  chosen,  and  a  branch  line  was  built  10  miles 
from  the  Central  Railway.  In  1894  private  houses  began 
to  be  erected.  Bello  Horizonte  has  fine  wide  streets,  with 
arborization  said  to  be  the  most  artistic  of  any  South  Amer- 
ican city.  It  lias  water  supply,  sewerage,  illumination,  and 
electric  tramways,  of  the  best  type,  a  Government  Palace, 
which  cost  half  a  million,  the  finest  of  the  State  buildings  of 
Brazil,  the  Department  of  the  Interior,  of  Finance,  and  of 
Agriculture,  each  with,  handsome  buildings,  also  the  City  Hos- 
pital. A  small  river  with  pretty  cascades  running  through 
the  yalley  forms  the  vertebra  of  a  beautiful  park,  which  with 
great  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines,  a  broad  driveway,  and  pic- 


NORTHERN  BRAZIL  343 

turesque  paths  rivals  in  extent  and  natural  beauty  all  others 
in  Brazil. 

An  Agricultural  School  with  a  model  farm  is  an  important 
educational  feature  on  account  of  the  great  fertility  of  the 
region.  Sugar  cane,  corn,  rice,  bananas,  tobacco,  fruits,  cot- 
ton, cereals,  and  many  other  things  are  here  cultivated,  with 
coffee  as  the  chief  product,  the  State  being  second  to  Sao  Paulo 
in  its  culture.  A  concession  was  made  to  a  North.  American 
Company  for  growing  hemp  and  other  fibres,  one  million  trees 
to  be  planted  within  four  years.  Viticulture  and  the  silk 
worm  industry  are  suitable  to  the  region.  Vast  pasture  lands 
support  great  herds  of  cattle,  nearly  300,000,000  head  being 
exported  in  a  single  year.  The  dairy  produce  of  butter, 
cheese,  and  milk,  is  very  important,  and  eggs  also.  It  is  thus 
evident  that  Brazil  possesses  other  industries  beside  rubber 
and  coffee,  and  regions  with  agreeable  climate.  The  San  Fran- 
cisco River  flowing  north  through  this  section,  while  navigable 
at  intervals,  has  a  series  of  cascades,  among  the  most  pic- 
turesque in  the  world.  Also  there  are  famous  mineral  springs 
at  Caxambu,  altitude  3000  ft.,  with  waters  resembling  those  of 
Baden  and  Spa,  with  chalets,  hotels,  and  sanatoria,  in  sum- 
mer crowded  with  guests ;  and  other  springs  in  various  other 
resorts. 

The  next  Coast  State  to  Rio  is  Espirito  Santo,  though  small, 
the  third  coffee  producer,  raising  also  sugar  cane,  rice,  and 
splendid  tropical  woods;  a  good  climate  up  on  the  plateau. 
The  capital  and  seaport,  Victoria  (20,000  pop.),  has  an  excel- 
lent harbor,  now  being  improved  with  docks,  warehouses,  etc., 
soon  to  be  a  port  of  call  for  large  steamers.  The  next  State, 
Bahia,  will  be  mentioned  later  in  the  chapter. 

Following  Bahia  is  Sergipe,  smallest  of  the  States  (a  little 
larger  than  Maryland),  15,000  square  miles,  but  the  most 
thickly  settled.  Another  small  State  is  Alagoas;  then  comes 
the  large  and  important  Pernavribuco,  its  capital  so  called,  but 
more  properly  Recife;  with  its  population  of  150,000,  the 
fourth  city  of  Brazil,  it  is  of  great  commercial  importance. 
The  name  Recife  arises  from  a  substantial  reef  off  shore  form- 
ing a  fine  natural  breakwater,  to  which  the  Dutch  made  some 
artificial  addition,  also  erecting  at  its  extremity  a  strong  light- 
house tower,  the  light  visible  for  20  miles.  The  city,  built  on 


344  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

marshy  ground,  by  quays  and  filling  in  redeemed  from  the 
sea,  from  its  canals  and  peninsulas,  is  called  the  Brazilian 
Venice.  Founded  in  1536  by  Duarte  Coelho,  it  was  in.  the 
seventeenth  century  occupied  many  years  by  the  Dutch,  who 
were  finally  expelled  in  1654  by  the  patriotic  Portuguese. 
From  the  pretty  bridges  are  many  lovely  panoramas.  Several 
fine  markets,  two  theaters,  a  handsome  Congress  Hall,  and  the 
Governor's  Palace  on  the  foundations  of  that  of  the  Prince  of 
Nassau  facing  the  Praga  de  Republiea  are  noteworthy.  Two 
handsome  churches  are  those  of  Nossa  Senhora  da  Penha  of 
the  Corinthian  order  of  architecture  and  the  Boa  Vista.  The 
chief  exports  are  cotton  and  sugar;  the  imports  exceed  those 
of  any  Brazilian  city  except  Rio. 

The  next  State  on  the  north  is  Parahyba,  reputed  to 
have  vast  mineral  wealth  of  coal,  iron,  gold,  precious  stones, 
etc.,  as  yet  lying  tranquil  in  the  soil.  Then  comes  Bio  Grande 
do  Norte,  whose  enormous  saline  deposits  along  the  shore 
partly  compensate  for  its  barren  stretches  of  land  and  fre- 
quent droughts.  The  following  state,  Ceard,  is  closely  con- 
nected with  the  rubber  industry,  for  the  reason  that  on  account 
of  the  barren  sands  along  the  coast,  and  the  inland  droughts 
the  male  portion  of  the  inhabitants  is  in  large  numbers  driven 
to  the  rubber  districts  of  Amazonas.  Seasons  not  visited  by 
drought  are  characterized  by  immense  crops  and  bountiful 
dairy  products.  Fortaleza,  the  capital,  with  over  50,000 
inhabitants,  among  other  nice  buildings  possesses  a  great  pub- 
lie  market  of  cast-iron.  Waterworks,  planned  on  a  large  sc'ale 
to  alleviate  the  effects  of  the  droughts,  will  be  highly  bene- 
ficial. 

The  adjoining  state  of  Piauhy,  with  similar  low  and  melan- 
choly shores,  also  suffers  from  lack  of  rain.  A  town  is  spoken 
of  as  "having  taken  the  name  of  a  river  that  was  so  poor  it 
ought  not  to  have  one  to  give  away.3'  Maranhao,  the  last 
state  before  reaching  Para  and  the  Amazon,  with  a  large  popu- 
lation of  negroes,  like  Baiia,  and  of  Indians  in  their  primitive 
condition,  has  as  its  capital  San  Luiz,  a  city  founded  by  the 
French,  and,  like  Bahia,  noted  for  its  literary  taste  and  culr 
ture.  An  indication  of  this  is  that  the  squares,  in  other  cities 
named  after  military  events  and  heroes,  are  here  called  after 
poets  and  other  writers. 


NOETHEEN  BEAZIL  345 


PARA.  AND  THE  AMAZON 

.The  great  Amazon  Eiver,  we  all  know,  is  the  largest  in 
th^,  world,  yet  its  immensity  is  hardly  realized.  In  size  of 
basin  and  volume  of  water  it  far  exceeds  the  Mississippi. 
For  a  distance  of  180  miles  from  shore  the  Atlantic  is  fresh- 
ened by  its  waters,  which  vary  in  depth  in  the  estuary  from 
90  to  900  feet.  Among  its  1100  tributaries,  great  and  small, 
there  are  seven  more  than  1000  miles  long,  not  counting  the 
Maranon  and  Ucayali,  by  which  it  is  formed.  One,  the  Ma- 
deira Eiver,  has  a  length  of  3000  miles.  In  the  great  region 
which  it  drains  there  are  1200  varieties  of  birds  and  8000 
animals  not  found  elsewhere,  to  say  nothing  of  the  plants. 
The  soil  is  so  rich  that  corn  is  returned  800  fold. 

The  best  time  to  visit  the  Upper  Amazon  is  in  the  dryer 
season,  from  June  to  the  middle  of  October,  or  in  January; 
the  worst  is  from  February  to  June.  The  climate  of  this 
section  is  attractive  only  to  those  who  enjoy  heat  and  rain; 
the  heat  is  not  excessive,  but  continuous;  the  rain  is  often 
200  inches  annually.  Still  the  climate  is  called  fairly  healthy 
for  the  most  part,  with  small  sections  very  bad. 

Para,  the  most  important  in  wealth,  population,  and  com- 
merce of  the  northern  States  of  Brazil,  is  a  name  familiar  to 
all,  to  many  simply  as  rubber,  to  others  rather  as  a  city  than 
a  State :  improperly  so  indeed,  as  the  city  by  its  residents  is 
termed  Belem.  Founded  at  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  in 
January,  1616,  it  is  younger  than  the  other  important  coast 
cities,  while  the  State,  formerly  a  part  of  Maranhao,  is  little 
more  than  a  century  old.  The  date  of  July  31,  1867,  when 
the  great  river,  previously,  closed  to  all  but  Brazilian  steam- 
ers, was  opened  to  the  navigation  of  the  world,  is  that  of  the 
beginning  of  Belem  7s  prosperity  and  wonderful  growth.  To- 
day a  city  of  150,000,  it  lies  on  the  edge  of  a  tranquil  lagoon 
called  Guaraja  Bay,  formed  by  the  Para  Eiver,  one  of  the 
several  mouths  of  the  great  Amazon.  Along  the  city  front  is 
a  forest  of  masts  and  smokestacks,  and  vessels  of  every  size 
and  character  pass  to  and  fro.  Fine  docks-  and  warehouses 
have  recently  been  constructed,  the  work,  begun  in  1907,  to  be 
continued  by  the  Port  of  Para  Co.,  acording  to  the  require- 
ments which  are  rapidly  increasing,  since  facilities  must  ulti- 


346  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

mately  be  provided  for  a  traffic  from  an  area  of  the  more  than 
three  million  square  miles  embraced  in  the  Amazon  Valley. 
A  channel  30  feet  deep  leading  from  the  outer  river  to  the 
port  is  marked  by  26  modern  buoys,  illumined  by  acetylene 
gas,  with  lights  of  120-eandle  power  intensified  by  a  lens. 
The  port  works  are  equal  to  the  best  at  Liverpool  and  Ham- 
burg, having  three-quarters  of  a  mile  of  quay  wall  with  water 
30  feet  deep  for  ocean  steamers,  722  feet  of  wall  with  12  feet 
of  water  for  river  steamers,  and  1500  feet  more  for  smaller 
boats  with  9  feet  6  inches  of  water.  The  wall  of  huge  blocks 
of  concrete  is  of  the  most  substantial  character.  On  a  road- 
way 60  feet  wide  are  electric  cranes  and  railways,  back  of 
which  are  large  warehouses.  Beyond  these  is  a  granite-paved 
boulevard,  then  the  city  itself,  with  the  Custom  House,  mar- 
ket, banking  houses,  stores,  and  all  forms  of  commercial  ac- 
tivity. 

On  the  large  square,  Frei  Caetano  Brandao,  in  the  center 
of  which  is  a  statue  of  the  bishop  after  whom  the  square  is 
named,  the  founder  of  the  first  hospital  in  the  city,  stands  the 
Cathedral  erected  in  1710,  elegant  and  harmonious,  of  rather 
severe  exterior,  but  within  brilliantly  decorated  in  high  colors. 
On  the  bay  side  of  this  square  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  fort 
called  Castetto,  preserved  for  historic  interest.  The  principal 
plaza  is  the  Independencia,  adorned  with  flower  beds,  with 
lawns,  bushes,  and  trees;  but  the  people  here  loving  nature 
and  flowers,  no  one  ever  steps  on  the  lawns  or  plucks  a  blos- 
som, which  indeed  is  the  case  in  the  other  cities  of  Latin 
America.  In  the  center  of  the  square  is  a  monument  to 
General  Gurjao,  a  superb  bronze  statue  of  a  soldier  who  died 
fighting,  while  he  exclaimed,  "See  how  a  Brazilian  General 
dies!77  At  the  side  of  the  plaza,  Parque  Affonso  Penna,  is 
the  Government  Palace  erected  in  1776,  and  near  by  the  blue 
tinted  City  Hall  of  colonial  days,  containing  in  the  main  hall 
a  beautiful  painting  of  the  death  of  the  great  musician,  Carlos 
Gomez,  who  died  here. 

In  the  square,  Visconde  de  Bio  Branco  on  a  marble  base 
is  the  most  artistic  monument  of  the  city,  a  bronze  statue  of 
the  Brazilian  patriot,  Jose  da  Garma  Malcher,  with  the  figure 
of  a  beautiful  young  girl  below  writing  the  name  of  the  hero. 


PARA  347 

Another  garden,  Baptista  Compos,  is  a  little  paradise  with, 
fountains,  lakes,  bridges,  plants,  etc. 

A  unique  public  recreation  ground  at  the  other  end  of  the 
city  is  a  tract  of  primitive  woods,  called  0  Basque,  dense  and 
somber  with  great  trees  which  as  the  city  grew  in  that  direc- 
tion was  with  wonderful  foresight  preserved  by  the  Munici- 
pality. Driveways  were  opened  disclosing  its  poetic  beauty, 
greenhouses,  cascades,  fountains  and  other  embellishments 
added,  making  it  a  resort  of  which  the  people  are  proud. 

The  usual  Pra$a  da  RepuWca  contains  a  beautiful  marble 
monument  with  bronze  figures  commemorating  the  proclama- 
tion of  the  Republic.  On  this  square,  the  heart  of  the  city,  is 
the  Paz  Theater  of  white  marble,  imposing  and  austere,  of  the 
Corinthian  order  of  architecture,  with  a  tranquil  grandeur 
unlike  any  other  in  South  America.  The  interior  is  dec- 
orated with  paintings  by  De  Angelis  surrounded  by  high  gold 
reliefs,  contains  a  foyer  with  a  beautiful  inlaid  floor,  and  has 
everything  in  lighting  and  mechanical  devices  of  the  most 
modern  type.  The  Paz  Hotel  is  near. 

Notable  churches  are  Santa  Anna,  built  in  1761,  and  Our 
Lady  of  the  Carmoy  about  the  same  date,  and  Our  Lady  of 
Nazareth,  built  in  1802,  where  seamen  especially  bring  offer- 
ings, wax  miniatures  of  boats  and  other  objects  of  maritime 
life,  forming  a  curious  museum  of  nautical  art. 

The  greatest  interest  and  admiration  may  be  excited  by 
the  Goeldi  Museum,  one  of  the  most  famous  in  South  America, 
and  now  under  the  direction  of  Dr.  Jacques  Huber.  The 
building  is  surrounded  by  fine  specimens  of  the  Amazonian 
forests  with  the  finest  collection  in  the  world  of  the  Hevea 
brasiliensiSy  the  best  of  the  many  varieties  of  rubber  trees; 
and  the  experimental  garden  probably  contains  every  species 
of  rubber  known,  with  many  other  plants  of  commercial  value. 
Of  equal  or  greater  interest-are  the  archaeological,  ethnological, 
and  zoological  departments.  Here  axe  collections  of  pottery 
of  extinct  Indian  tribes  inhabiting  this  region  at  the  time  of 
the  Portuguese  discovery,  with  funeral  urns  and  pottery  from 
mounds  of  the  Island  of  Marajo.  "Weapons  and  utensils  of 
the  Amazonian  Indians  are  shown.  The  collection  of  Bra- 
zilian fauna  comprises  a  complete  series  of  Amazonian  mon- 


348  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

keys,  a  great  variety  of  birds,  the  larger  mammals,  as  the 
tapir,  jaguar,  etc.,  and  insects.  Many  living  creatures, 
aquatic  birds,  parrots,  toucans  of  gorgeous  plumage,  alli- 
gators, anacondas,  boa  constrictors,  electric  eels,  and  many 
others,  safely  caged,  enchain  the  attention. 

The  Lauro  Sodre  Institute  for  industrial  and  agricultural 
training,  a  School  of  Commerce,  a  Fine  Arts  Academy,  and 
other  establishments  for  education,  for  the  sick,  and  the  poor 
are  liberally  provided.  A  fine  new  Market  is  not  of  small 
importance.  The  broad,  clean,  well  shaded  streets  are  often 
lined  with  beautiful  villas  and  gardens;  though  but  a  degree 
and  a  half  from  the  equator  the  heat  is  not  excessive,  rarely 
above  90°  Fair. 

Manaos.  The  visitor  to  Para,  is  likely  to  be  on  his  way 
up  the  Amazon  to  Manaos  or  Iquitos ;  if  a  bit  of  an  explorer, 
perchance  to  Bolivia  by  the  newly  practicable  Madeira  and 
Mamore  route,  or  to  the  rubber  regions  in  any  one  of  five 
countries.  The  city  of  Para  is  about  80  miles  from  the  pilot 
station  Salinas ;  and  a  further  journey  of  24  hours,  nearly  200 
miles,  is  required,  across  a  bay,  then  for  nine  hours  through 
a  narrow  channel,  before  one  really  enters  the  broad  stream 
of  the  great  Amazon.  Along  the  narrows  the  landscape  is 
charming;  clearings  with  huts  and  children  are  frequent; 
canoes  with  fishermen,  and  small  steamers  calling  at  the  tar- 
racas  (plantations)  for  rubber  or  to  bring  provisions  are  nu- 
merous. The  luxuriant  vegetation  is  fascinating.  But  from 
the  remoteness  of  the  shores,  on  the  immense  wide  river  the 
four  or  five  days  to  Manaos  may  be  somewhat  monotonous. 
The  greater  will  be  the  surprise  of  the  uniformed  traveler 
when  after  900  miles  through  the  enormous  wilderness  of 
forest  he  arrives  at  this  new  city,  with  a  population  of  80,000, 
truly  a  wonder  of  wonders.  Its  location  is  at  the  junction 
of  the  Rio  Negro  with  the  Amazon ;  one  writer  says  on  a  large 
bay,  another  that  it  is  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Negro  eight 
miles  from  the  Amazon.  At  all  events  it  has  a  safe  and  quiet 
harbor  with  excellent  port  works  arranged  to  fit  the  rise  and 
fall  of  the  river,  about  50  feet.  A  floating  roadway  extends 
into  the  river,  a  platform  and  pontoons  supporting  ware- 
houses; and  ocean  steamships  come  alongside.  Hills  have 
been  lowered,  shallow  places  filled  in,  and  waterworks  and 


NORTHERN  BRAZIL  349 

drainage  systems  supplied;  so  that  a  remarkable  city  indeed 
is  here  in  the  forest.  It  is  said  to  be  the  best  lighted  city  in 
Brazil.  The  Municipal  street,  100  feet  wide,  is  lined  with 
handsome  buildings.  The  Eduardo  Ribeiro  avenits  in  the  aft- 
ernoon and  evening  is  thronged  with  people  of  wealth  and 
fashion.  The  Amazonas  Theater,  on  this  avenue  and  S.  Se- 
bantiao  Square,  is  of  astonishing  magnificence,  having  cost 
$2,000,000 ;  its  beautiful  colored  dome  is  a  conspicuous  feature 
from  the  harbor.  The  interior  compares  with  the  splendid  ex- 
terior, allegorical  paintings  by  De  Angelis,  the  celebrated  Ital- 
ian artist,  ornamenting  the  ceilings  of  foyer  and  auditorium. 
The  Palace  of  Justice,  a  white  marble  building  in  Roman  style, 
with  a  bronze  and  marble  staircase,  is  also  imposing.  The 
Cathedral  is  a  vast  temple  of  simple  architecture.  There  are 
excellent  school  buildings,  a  public  library,  a  museum  with 
curious  Amazonian  specimens,  a  spacious  market  cool  and 
well  ventilated,  and  a  public  garden  with  music  from  six  till 
midnight.  Electric  fans  are  everywhere  in  evidence,  ice  here 
manufactured  is  supplied  in  abundance,  and  excellent  sanita- 
tion makes  the  capital  surprisingly  free  from  sickness. 

Iquitos.  By  ocean  steamers,  the  Booth  Line  from  New  York 
and  from  London,  the  journey  may  be  pursued  up  the  Amazon 
as  far  as  Iquitos  in  Peru,  a  city  of  15,000  population,  when 
the  Amazon,  over  2000  miles  from  its  mouth,  still  has  a  width 
of  nearly  three  miles  and  an  average  depth  of  25  feet,  twice 
that  in  the  rainy  season.  The  city  is  a  few  leagues  below  the 
junction  of  the  Maranon  and  the  Ucayali,  by  which  the  Ama- 
zon is  formed.  Iquitos  is  quite  cosmopolitan  with  representa- 
tives from  various  European  and  American  nations.  It  has 
many  warehouses,  and  commercial  and  other  modern  buildings 
of  brick  and  iron.  One  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  river 
and  surrounded  by  dense  forests,  the  climate  is  not  so  bad 
as  it  might  be,  though  the  temperature  averages  85°  to  90° 
all  the  year  around ;  as  a  rule  the  place  is  not  unhealthy. 

Rubber  is  the  principal  occasion  for  its  being  and  growth, 
and  its  commerce  is  rapidly  increasing.  In  all  directions  lie 
the  rubber  forests,  or  more  accurately  the  forests  which  con- 
tain rubber  trees.  For  these  do  not  grow  conveniently  in 
groves,  except  here  and  there  occasionally  a  few  trees,  but 
scattered  singly  in  the  damp  forest,  perhaps  100  or  150  trees 


350  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

in  an  estrada  or  section  of  about  100  acres,  an  area  which  a 
single  man  can  take  care  of.  The  estrada  is  really  the  path 
leading  from  one  tree  to  another.  The  man,  called  the  serin- 
gueroy  sets  out  early  in  the  morning  with  hatchet  and  tin  cups 
or  basins;  he  makes  on  each  tree  several  incisions,  4  to  6  inches 
apart  around  the  tree.  By  the  time  the  round  of  3  or  4  miles 
is  finished  it  is  time  for  lunch;  then  the  collection  may  begin, 
the  tins  containing  the  fluid  called  latex  are  emptied  into  a 
pail,  eight  or  ten  quarts  in  all,  producing  about  as  many 
pounds  of  rubber.  This  is  finished  by  noon,  after  which  the 
latex  must  be  smoked  over  a  wood  fire;  it  is  coagulated  on 
a  sort  of  ladle  twirled  over  the  smoke.  Fresh  coats  are  added 
when  one  is  dry  until  a  bolacha  or  biscuit  is  formed  of  from 
5  to  100  Ibs.  The  man  who  does  this  work  may  be  a  native 
Indian  or  a  resident  of  Ceara  or  elsewhere.  He  works  for  a 
contractor  who  may  employ  several  hundred.  Many  atrocities 
have  been  committed  by  these  contractors,  who  have  com- 
pelled the  defenseless  Indians  to  work  for  them  without  pay 
and  have  inflicted  cruelties,  torture,  and  murder  upon  them 
and  their  families,  especially  in  the  Putomayo  district,  where 
an  English  Company  has  been  engaged.  Through  recent 
investigations  the  cruelties  have  been  terminated  for  the  mo- 
ment; but  such  is  the  greed  and  inhumanity  of  some  pro- 
fessedly civilized  men  that  close  watch  must  be  kept  by  hu- 
mane officials  to  prevent  further  abuses  and  the  extermination 
of  harmless  savages. 

The  rubber  is  collected  in  this  way  from  trees  called  jebe 
or  hevea,  but  there  are  many  varieties  of  trees  which  produce 
rubber  of  varying  excellence.  A  kind  of  tree  called  the 
eaucho  which  grows  on  higher  land  is  cut  down  by  the 
cauchero  and  the  entire  latex  is  extracted,  averaging  about 
50  Ibs.  to  a  tree;  this  is  a  quality  of  less  value.  Brazil  has 
a  heavy  export  tax  on  rubber,  Bolivia  about  half  as  much, 
while  Peru  exacts  less  than  a  quarter. 

The  terrors,  perils,  and  the  fascination  (to  some  few)  of  the 
immense  and  awful  forest  are  in  many  books  described.  Few 
are  the  explorers  who,  aided  by  many  hands  wielding  ma- 
chetes, have  penetrated  far  into  the  jungle  from  the  flowing 
river  roads.  For  their  adventures  I  have  no  space.  Yet  in 
these  days  of  doughty  deeds  by  valiant  women,  a  far  more 


NORTHERN  BRAZIL  351 

wonderful  exploit  by  one  who  doubtless  bad  no  wish  to  usurp 
man's  functions  as  an  explorer  may  here  be  chronicled.  Long, 
long  ago,  in  1769,  when  the  forests  were  untrodden  even  by 
the  casual  rubber  gatherer,  Madame  Godin,  to  join  her  hus- 
band in  Guiana,  left  Riobamba  in  Ecuador  with  two  brothers, 
a  nephew,  a  physician,  three  women  domestics,  a  negro  servant, 
and  thirty  Indians.  Having  passed  over  the  great  mountain 
range  they  embarked  on  a  stream,  one  of  the  many  affluents  of 
the  Amazon,  to  meet  with  repeated  disasters.  Their  boat 
was  upset,  their  supplies  and  baggage  were  lost.  The  Indians 
deserted.  A  raft  being  made,  this  also  foundered.  Proceed- 
ing on  foot,  lost  in  the  forest  they  wandered  until,  exhausted 
with  starvation  and  effort,  they  lay  down  to  die.  This  all  the 
rest  did,  but  after  two  days  by  her  dead  companions,  Madame 
Godin  arose.  Shoeless,  her  clothing  nearly  gone,  with  no  food 
save  roots  and  herbs  she  struggled  on  amid  the  terrors  of  the 
jungle  till  after  nine  days  she  met  two  so-called  savages. 
These  treated  her  kindly,  ministering  to  her  needs  till  she  was 
able  to  proceed,  then  conducted  her  to  a  white  settlement  far- 
ther down.  As  a  white-haired  woman  she  ultimately  reached 
Para  and  joined  her  husband,  a  notable  illustration  of  the 
weaker  sex. 

The  Madeira  Mamore  Railway.  Only  the  unusually  enter- 
prising tourist,  the  explorer,  or  the  business  man  will  be  likely 
to  investigate  this  new  railway,  but  all  may  like  to  know  a 
little  about  it.  The  Madeira,  the  largest  tributary  of  the 
Amazon,  comes  in  from  the  south  a  little  below  Manaos,  and 
is  the  outlet  and  means  of  access  to  a  large  portion  of  the 
state  of  Matto  Grosso  in  Brazil  and  of  the  country  of  Bolivia 
as  well.  Continuous  river  navigation  has,  however, 'been  im- 
possible on  acconnt  of  a  series  of  19  falls  and  rapids  on  the 
Madeira  and  Mamore  rivers  within  a  distance  of  200  miles, 
thus  preventing  earlier  development  of  a  section  rich  not  only 
in  rubber,  but  in  minerals,  and  in  agricultural  and  stock-rais- 
ing possibilities.  About  570  miles  up  the  Madeira  River  is 
the  new  city  of  Porto  Velho,  where  the  railway  begins,  now 
completed  for  a  distance  of  202  miles  to  Guajara  Mirim  on 
the  Mamore,  about  due  south.  Thus  has  been  accomplished  a 
work  which  in  1869  was  planned  by  an  American,  CoL  George 
Earl  Church,  under  a  concession  from  Brazil  and  Bolivia. 


352  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

In  1871  tie  turned  the  first  sod  of  the  railway,  but  financial 
and  other  difficulties  soon  caused  the  suspension  of  operations. 
In  1878  another  effort  was  made,  also  to  meet  disaster.  To-day 
the  better  knowledge  of  the  causes  of  tropical  diseases  and  of 
methods  of  sanitation  has  caused  the  task  to  be  triumphantly 
concluded.  Construction  work,  begun  in  August,  1907,  was 
carried  on  with  such  effect  that  in  spite  of  many  difficulties 
the  final  section  of  the  road  was  opened  for  traffic  July  15, 
1912.  As  yet  there  is  no  fast  express,  two  days  being  required 
for  the  journey.  Porto  Velho,  the  northern  terminus  of  the 
road,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Madeira,  is  a  town  of  1500 
people,  with  an  ice  plant  making  six  tons  a  day,  piped  water 
supply  of  two  kinds,  one  for  internal  use,  and  with  wireless 
telegraphic  communication  with  Manaos,  hence  close  relations 
with  the  rest  of  the  world.  To  this  port  ocean  steamers  may 
come  during  part  of  the  year,  November  to  June,  and  large 
river  steamers  at  any  time.  The  residence  part  of  the  city  is 
on  a  hill  a  little  back.  Regular  trains  three  times  a  week 
leave  at  8  a.  m.  The  greater  part  of  the  journey  is  through 
the  jungle  in  a  cut  100  feet  wide,  though  in  places  the  river 
is  visible,  at  Santo  Antonio  a  picturesque  view  including  the 
first  cascades.  Near  Caldeiro  Station  is  one  of  the  worst  places 
on  the  river,  called  the  Devil's  Caldron,  invisible,  however, 
from  the  track  South  of  Mutum  are  25  miles  of  straight 
track  passing  through  an  immense  rubber  concession  to  the 
company.  At  Abuna,  218  kms.,  where  the  train  is  due  at  5.30 
p.  m.,  halt  is  made  for  the  night  close  to  the  river.  Leaving 
Abuna  at  7.30  the  next  morning  the  arrival  at  the  terminus 
should  be  at  3.15  p.  m.  Villa  Murtinho,  93  kms.  south  of 
Abuna,  is  just  opposite  the  town  of  Villa  Bella  in  Bolivia, 
and  the  junction  of  the  Beni  and  Mamore,  the  Bolivian  city 
being  between  the  two  rivers;  the  Mamore  from  here  south 
forms  the  boundary  between  the  two  countries.  At  the  ter- 
minal, Guajara  Mirim,  there  is  another  town  of  the  same 
name  on  the  opposite  shore  in  Bolivia,  from  which  a  railroad 
is  now  being  constructed  to  Riberalta,  an  important  town  of 
Bolivia,  near  the  edge  of  the  Amazonian  forest  and  the  Bo- 
livian cattle  country.  For  the  development  of  northern 
Bolivia  which  is  drained  by  the  Beni  River,  this  railway  will 
be  a  great  motive  power,  as  also  for  Matto  Grosso  of  Brazil. 


NORTHERN  BRAZIL  353 

An  enormous  region  of  rubber  and  of  many  other  possibilities 
is  hereby  rendered  accessible,  as  this  great  accomplishment  is 
to  be  supplemented  in  Bolivia  by  other  important  connections. 
The  formal  inauguration  of  the  road  already  long  in  use  was 
postponed  on  account  of  the  desire  of  the  President  of  Brazil 
to  assist  in  person  at  the  ceremonies. 

It  is  an  item  of  interest  that  the  head  waters  of  the  Gua- 
pore  River,  a  branch  of  the  Madeira,  are  so  close  to  those  of 
the  stream  Aguapehy,  tributary  to  the  Jauru  and  Paraguay 
rivers,  that  they  could  be  connected  by  a  canal  less  than  1000 
feet  long.  Years  ago  the  trip  across  from  the  Amazon  waters 
to  the  Paraguay-Parana  basin  was  made  in  a  canoe  by  hardy 
Portuguese  explorers  following  this  route,  which  in  the  years 
to  come  may  develop  into  a  frequented  waterway. 

Any  one  wishing  to  make  the  journey  from  Manaos  up  the 
Madeira  to  the  railway  is  obliged  to  pay  a  tax  of  9  milreis,  in 
addition  to  a  deposit  of  50$  for  hospital  or  funeral  expenses 
in  ease  he  should  contract  yellow  fever  or  other  serious  ail, 
but  the  50$  are  refunded  on  his  safe  return. 

On  the  Way  Home.  Few  will  sail  away  from  the  match- 
less harbor  and  city  of  Rio  without  keen  regret  and  the  de- 
termination to  revisit  them  at  the  earliest -possible  moment, 
though  with  these  once  lost  to  view  he  saajHook  eagerly  for- 
ward to  the  conclusion  of  the  homeward  voyage.  This  at  pres- 
ent by  the  Lamport  and  Holt  steamers  occupies  16  or  18 
days,  which  are  happily  spent  on  their  large  and  luxurious 
vessels,  the  several  calls  en  route  relieving.,  any  possible  mo- 
notony. The  weather  is  generally  delightful,  two  weeks  of 
summer,  not  too  hot,  followed  by  one  -never  J&iows  what,  for 
the  two  or  three  days  before  reaching  New  "York. 

A  few  may  prefer  to  take  ship  to  a  European  port  and  spend 
some  time  on  the  other  side  before  returning  home,  but  there 
is  no  longer  a  necessity  for  going  that  way  in  order  to  have  a 
comfortable  voyage.  Although  the  steamers  of  the  English 
Line  are  a  trifle  faster,  even  with  the  best  connection  at 
Southampton  or  Liverpool  the  time  to  New  York  is  longer. 

Bahia.  About  60  hours  from  Rio  on  the  third  morning  of 
the  return  voyage,  the  ship  is  likely  to  be  at  anchor  in  the 
harbor  of  Bahia,  once  the  capital  of  Brazil,  and  now  with  a 
population  of  285,000  its  third  city.  It  is  720  miles  from  its 


354  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUK 

ancient  rival  Founded  in  1549  by  Thome  de  Souza  this  is  the 
oldest  of  all  the  Brazilian  cities  and  has  ever  been  a  place  not 
only  of  commercial  importance  but  of  artistic  and  literary 
culture  and  of  sumptuous  religious  sanctuaries.  Until  1762 
it  was  the  seat  of  colonial  power.  The  location  of  the  city  on 
the  east  side  of  a  deep  and  well  protected  gulf  is  admirable ; 
its  beauty  would  excite  enthusiasm  if  it  were  seen  before 
Rio  instead  of  afterwards.  The  name  of  this  city  is  really 
Sao  Salvador,  while  the  bay  is  Bahia  de  Todos  os  Santos,  Bay 
of  All  Saints,  the  name  Bahia  of  the  State  having,  as  in  the 
case  of  Pernambuco  and  Para,  by  foreigners  been  transferred 
to  that  of  its  capital  city.  Its  appearance  is  indeed  striking, 
with  its  upper  and  lower  town,  the  former  crowning  a  high 
and  almost  perpendicular  bluff,  the  latter,  looking  almost  as  if 
it  had  been  pushed  over  the  edge,  occupying  a  narrow  strip 
along  the  water  front,  both  sections  charmingly  variegated  by 
dense  tropical  foliage.  Conspicuous  from  a  distance  are  the 
great  elevators  connecting  the  upper  and  lower  town  and  many 
large  buildings,  towers,  and  churches. 

In  a  small  boat  one  may  be  rowed  a  mile  from  the  anchorage 
to  the  landing,  then  passing  to  Ribeira  street,  may  follow  this 
to  an  elevator  at  the  right  or  by  a  steep  and  narrow  street  on 
the  face  of  the  bluff  may  climb  to  the  top.  By  the  elevator  at 
the  right  15  or  20  may  be  lifted  in  a  wooden  box  to  the  edge  of 
a  pretty  square  above,  the  Praga  da  Constitucao.  At  the 
right  is  the  site  of  the  ancient  Municipal  Building,  spoiled  by 
the  Dutch  in  1636,  later  repaired,  and  recently  rebuilt,  with 
a  new  four-faced  clock  tower  added;  but  in  January,  1912,  it 
was  riddled  by  shots  from  Brazilian  warships  on  account  of  an 
insurrection.  A  large  attractive  building  at  the  rear  of  this 
square,  which  formerly  was  the  residence  of  the  Portuguese 
Governors  and  the  Presidents  of  the  Province,  has  been  rebuilt 
from  the  foundations  and  is  now  used  for  the  Governor's  of- 
fices, his  residence  being  in  Corredor  da  Victoria.  The  Amer- 
ican Consulate  is  well  located  on  a  corner  of  this  square. 
Narrow  lanes  of  three  centuries  gone,  lead  from  here  in  several 
directions;  but  some  of  them  are  traversed  by  electric  cars 
which  frequently  leave  the  Plaza  for  diverse  sections.  A  pleas- 
ant suburban  ride  is  to  the  fishing  village  and  suburb  of  Eio 
o,  where  a  nice  luncheon  may  be  obtained  j  one  passes 


PRACA    DE    FREI    CAETANO   BRANDAO,   PARA 


BAHIA  355 

on  the  way  out,  through,  some  of  the  fine  residence  streets,  by 
the  side  of  beautiful  parks,  and  by  the  lighthouse  on  Cape 
Barra  at  the  entrance  to  the  bay,  on  the  site  of  an  old  fort. 
There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  lighthouse  top,  well  worth  the 
climb,  and  one  may  walk  on  to  Rio  Vermelho  a  little  farther. 

The  narrow  Chili  street  runs  from  the  Praga  da  Consti- 
tucao  to  the  Castro  Alves  Square,  150  feet  above  the  bay,  with 
a  Statue  of  Columbus  surmounting  a  marble  fountain  in  the 
garden.  On  one  side  is  the  San  Joao  Theater.  Here  also  are 
the  Paris  and  the  Sul  Americano  Hotels,  and  the  building  of 
the  journal,  the  Diario  da  Bahia.  Following  from  here  Carlos 
Gomez  street  we  may  come  to  the  Piedade  Square  with  a  pretty 
garden,  and  a  marble  fountain  with  a  symbolic  statue  of  an 
Indian  stepping  on  a  serpent.  On  one  side  of  the  square  is 
the  Piedade  Church,  on  another  the  Senate  House,  of  Italian 
style  of  architecture.  Passing  the  Police  Headquarters,  a 
pretty  street,  Pedro  Luiz,  with  modern  buildings,  leads  to  the 
Passeio  Pullico,  a  delightful  resting  place,  the  largest  and 
most  popular  in  the  city,  shaded  by  mango  trees,  containing 
an  obelisk  of  Egyptian  marble,  commemorating,  one  says,  the 
arrival  of  King  Joao  YI  in  Brazil,  another  the  opening  of 
Brazilian  ports  to  foreign  commerce  in  1808.  At  one  side,  on 
the  Afflictos  Square,  the  thick  walls  of  an  old  fortress  have 
been  remodeled  into  police  barracks.  A  steep  street  leads  down 
from  the  Passeio  Publico  to  a  colonial  fortification,  the  Gam- 
loa  Fortress  at  the  edge  of  the  water. 

The  Largo  Duque  du  Caxias  contains  in  a  pretty  garden  an 
imposing  monument  of  Carrara  marble  and  bronze,  100  feet 
in  height,  named  the  Dois  de  Julho,  the  date  of  the  evacuation 
of  the  State  by  the  Portuguese  troops  in  1824,  which  sealed  its 
independence.  At  the  top  of  the  tall  Corinthian  Column 
stands  the  traditional  Indian  with  foot  on  a  dragon,  signify- 
ing the  triumph  over  despotism.  Colossal  figures  of  bronze 
represent  the  great  rivers  of  Brazil,  with  other  accessories 
making  this  one  of  the  finest  monuments  in  Brazil.  A  notable 
peculiarity  of  the  city  is  that  the  monuments  are  of  symbolic 
character  and  not  of  individuals,  no  busts  or  statues  of  heroes 
save  one  to  the  English  philanthropist,  Dr.  Paterson,  a  physi- 
cian whose  good  works  were  many.  In  the  Pra§a  do  Biachuelo, 
which  is  overlooked  by  the  handsome  edifice  of  the  Commercial 


356  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

Association,  another  beautiful  monument,  a  marble  pillar  sur-, 
mounted  by  a  flying  Victory,  commemorates  the  triumph  of 
Brazil  over  Paraguay  in  the  terrible  war  of  1864r-70. 

Among  a  number  of  interesting  churches  is  the  San  Fran- 
cisco, built  in  1713  with  elaborate  and  gorgeous  interior  deco- 
rations. The  Collegia  Church  of  the  Jesuits,  now  the  Cathe- 
dral, built  of  stone  prior  to  1572,  on  the  Largo  Quinze  de 
Novembro,  has  an  imposing  interior,  the  details  of  its  ornamen- 
tation, from  the  design  of  the  main  altar  to  the  work  in  the 
ceiling,  making  it  perhaps  the  most  curious  in  Brazil.  A  Bene- 
dictine Church,  San  Selastiao,  on  a  central  eminence,  is 
peculiar  in  being  all  white  inside  and  out,  the  main  altar  and 
the  Saints'  images  of  Carrara  marble,  while  the  two  towers 
and  the  dome,  the  highest  spot  in  the  city,  are  white  also. 
Oldest  of  all  in  Bahia  is  the  Church  Nossa  Senhora  da  Ojuda. 

Bahia  boasts  of  one  of  the  best  Medical  Schools  in  South 
America,  with  a  finer  building  than  the  School  in  Bio  pos- 
sesses ;  this  on  the  Largo  Quinze  de  Novembro.  It  has  also  a 
Law  College  and  other  excellent  schools,  one  of  the  most  val- 
uable, a  Lyceum  of  Arts  and  Trades  founded  in  1872  with  day 
and  night  classes,  workshops,  and  class  rooms,  and  2500  pupils 
in  attendance.  A  Public  Library  with  30,000  volumes,  a  Mu- 
nicipal with  20,000,  and  still  others  are  of  good  service  to  the 
people.  The  Poorhouse  is  an  attractive  looking  place  and 
there  are  excellent  hospitals. 

In  the  eastern  suburbs  are  charming  vistas ;  and  of  homely 
interest  are  the  hundreds  of  colored  women  engaged  in  laun- 
dry work  along  a  little  stream  with  the  clothing  spread  out 
upon  the  grass  and  bushes.  No  machine  washed  and  dried 
clothing  there,  but  all  done  in  good  fresh  air. 

Bahia  is  the  great  cocoa  port  of  Brazil,  furnishing  about 
one-fifth  of  the  world's  supply;  the  State  is  wonderfully 
rich  in  productions  of  almost  every  kind.  One  may  ask  what 
does  it  not  produce  rather  than  what  it  does :  coffee,  tobacco, 
rubber,  cotton,  sugar,  nuts,  woods,  etc.,  besides  a  wealth  of 
minerals  of  great  diversity;  the  largest  diamond  carbonate  ever 
discovered  was  found  here  in  1895.  It  weighed  3150  carats 
and  was  divided  in  Paris  into  smaller  stones.  Gold,  copper, 
and  many  of  the  precious  stones  are  found  in  various  sections. 


NORTHERN  BRAZIL  357 

Even  the  sand  is  exported,  being  worth  $100  a  ton ;  some,  at 
least,  of  a  deposit  found  by  an  American  engineer  along  the 
shore,  called  monazite,  rich  in  thorium  silicate,  used  for  electric 
lights. 

The  lower  part  of  the  city  should  not  be  ignored,  for  here 
are  the  commercial  houses,  the  markets,  Custom  House,  arse- 
nals, Post  Office,  factories,  and  many  of  the  stores.  There  is 
one  pretty  plaza,  but  the  streets  are  very  narrow,  and  at  night 
it  is  wholly  deserted  for  the  residential  section  above,  save  for 
a  few  of  the  poorer  classes  who  live  on  the  steep  hillside. 

On  the  boundary  of  this  state  are  the  Paulo  Affonso  Falls 
of  the  San  Francisco  River,  worth  visiting  if  time  permits ;  the 
valley  is  one  of  the  most  fertile  regions  of  the  globe.  A  line 
of  comfortable  steamers  subsidized  by  the  State,  running  to 
Pernambuco,  gives  opportunity  to  change  at  Peneda,  about  30 
miles  up  the  river,  to  a  smaller  boat,  which  ascends  to  Piranhas, 
near  the  foot  of  the  cataract,  150  miles  farther,  a  two  days' 
journey.  A  railway  runs  from  Piranhas  to  Jatoba,  71  miles, 
to  navigation  above  the  Falls.  Pedras,  the  Falls  station,  is 
about  half  way.  Then  a  ride  of  two  hours  or  so  brings  one  to 
the  great  canon.  Men  living  near,  for  a  small  fee,  will  act  as 
guides.  There  are  various  rapids  and  one  high  fall;  the  river 
first  compressed  by  rock  banks  is  divided  into  five  narrow 
branches  through  rock  clefts,  four  of  which  tumbling  down  15 
or  20  feet  become  a  mass  of  foam  and  rush  down  a  steep  in- 
cline, with  a  roar  audible  for  miles,  in  splendid  rapids.  The 
four  branches  soon  unite,  rushing  on  to  the  great  Fall,  the 
Mai  da  Cachoeira,  where  all  five  take  a  grand  leap  of  190  feet, 
which  may  best  be  surveyed  lying  prone  on  a  flat  rock  72  feet 
above  the  Fall,  too  awe-inspiring  a  sight  to  be  enjoyed  by 
every  one,  but  to  those  of  steady  nerve  a  magnificent  spectacle. 
A  visit  to  the  Bat's  Cave  may  as  well  be  omitted. 

Unless  one  stays  over  a  steamer  in  Bahia,  one  may  have  but 
a  glimpse  of  the  city's  many  attractions  and  of  course  none  of 
the  unique,  solitary,  yet  some  day  to  be  famous,  waterfalls. 
Five  or  six  hours  only  on  shore  are  generally  permitted  to  the 
tourist,  though  the  steamer  is  likely  to  delay  several  more  after 
the  return  on  board.  But  it  does  not  do  to  take  chances  on 
so  important  a  matter. 


358  THE  SOUTH  AMEKICAN  TOUR 

From  BaHa  the  sail  is  generally  to  Port  au  Spain,  Trinidad, 
where  the  hours  will  be  a  pleasure  after  ten  days  on  the  broad 
ocean.  Once  more  you  are  in  a  land  where  you  will  hear 
English  "as  she  is  spoke"  in  various  ways  by  persons  of  va- 
rious complexions.  A  drive  past  the  Victoria  Institute,  the 
Government  House,  and  the  market  place  to  the  reservoir,  the 
Botanical  Garden,  and  to  the  beautiful  Queen's.  Park  Hotel 
will  be  greatly  enjoyed ;  and  the  opportunity  for  shopping  in 
the  excellent  stores  or  from  the  natives  who  bring  wares  to 
the  boat  will  be  improved  by  some  whose  purses  are  not  yet 
empty.  On  the  regular  steamers,  there  is  no  opportunity  to 
visit  the  celebrated  Pitch  Lake  some  miles  away,  a  lake  with 
an  area  of  114  acres,  on  the  surface  of  which  one  may  walk 
if  he  moves  along  promptly.  This  is  the  main  source  of  the 
supply  of  asphalt  used  in  the  United  States. 

The  next  morning  the  steamer  is  at  Bridgetown  in  Barbados, 
a  pleasant  old  town  where  some  hours  may  be  spent  in  a  drive, 
a  stroll,  or  in  shopping  to  buy  a  few  curios  or  embroideries. 
This  is  surely  British  soil,  though  90  per  cent  of  the  inhabit- 
ants are  negroes.  Near  the  landing  is  Trafalgar  Square,  with 
a  bronze  statue  of  Nelson  in  the  center,  justly  his  due  as  it  was 
he  who  preserved  Great  Britain's  West  Indian  possessions  in 
1805.  Here  are  the  government  buildings  and  8t.  Michael's, 
the  Anglican  church.  A  Carnegie  Library  and  a  Salvation 
Army  Building  not  far  away  may  be  reminders  that  we  are 
approaching  home.  The  Woman's  Self -Help  Association,  also 
on  the  Square,  invites  and  deserves  patronage ;  for  Indian  pot- 
tery and  other  curios,  lace,  embroidery,  and  various  edibles 
may  here  be  procured  at  modest  prices.  A  house  called  Wil- 
ton at  the  corner  of  Bay  street  and  Chelsea  road  is  of  interest 
as  being  in  1751  the  temporary  residence  of  George  Washing- 
ton, the  companion  of  his  elder  brother  Lawrence,  who  having 
contracted  consumption  had  come  here  in  the  hope  of  recover- 
ing his  health.  Dying  a  year  afterward,  Lawrence  bequeathed 
his  estate  of  Mount  Vernon  to  his  brother  George. 

Seven  days  later  Sandy  Hook  is  passed;  the  Statue  of  Lib- 
erty, the  old  and  new  sky-scrapers  draw  near.  'Every  one  is 
glad  to  return,  however  delightful  the  journey.  Some,  if  not 
all,  of  the  passengers  will  in  future  have  a  little  broader  out- 
look ;  regarding  the  Other  Americans  with  somewhat  more  of 


HOME  359 


respect;  well  knowing  now  that  there  are  agreeable  scenes  to  be 
revisited,  remote  regions  to  be  explored,  and  for  those  who 
have  the  judgment,  tact,  and  energy,  wonderful  opportunities 
for  enterprise. 


CHAPTER  XXXIH 

SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE 

ALTHOUGH  information  and  advice  in  regard  to  South.  Amer- 
ican trade  have  been  liberally  proffered  in  many  books  and 
magazines,  and  in  various  addresses  to  commercial  bodies,  a 
few  additional  remarks  may  be  of  service;  as  from  current 
report,  cogent  need  still  exists  to  reiterate  with  emphasis  many 
suggestions  previously  urged,  some  of  these  in  a  magazine 
article  of  my  own  as  long  ago  as  July,  1907,  but  equally  im- 
portant to-day. 

Except  for  certain  facts  of  common  knowledge,  it  would  go 
without  saying  that  the  first  and  most  important  point  for  a 
manufacturer  to  consider  is  whether  or  not  he  really  cares  to 
cultivate  South  American  trade,  and  will  make  a  determined 
and  persistent  effort  to  secure  and  preserve  it ;  a  few  occasional 
sales  certainly  not  being  worth  while.  To  form  an  intelligent 
opinion  on  this  question  conditions  must  be  thoroughly  under- 
stood. 

Commercial  men  should  by  this  time  be  aware  that  in  the 
regions  to  the  south  business  opportunities  are  large  and  are 
rapidly  increasing,  that  the  population  of  the  Latin  American 
Eepublics  is  above  seventy  millions,  and  that  their  commerce, 
amounting  in  1912  to  two  and  a  half  billion  dollars,  is  far 
greater  than  that  of  China  and  Japan  together.  In  fact  Ar- 
gentina alone  has  more  commerce  than  either  of  these  Asiatic 
countries,  and  Brazil  has  more  than  Japan.  Further,  the  ratio 
of  increase  on  our  South  American  continent  is  greater  than 
in  those  regions  of  Asia. 

Next,  the  manufacturer  should  realize  that  the  longer  he 
delays  entering  the  field  the  smaller  will  be  his  chance  of 
success ;  that  the  British  and  Germans  have  long  been  on  the 
ground,  and  that,  in  spite  of  our  fancied  superiority  in  busi- 
ness methods,  they  will  not  easily  be  supplanted.  He  should 

360 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  361 

understand  that  the  South  Americans  in  general  are  not  eager 
to  trade  with  us,  their  association  with  Europe,  both  by  blood 
and  by  steamship  lines,  being  closer  and  stronger.  In  some 
countries  we  are  really  unpopular;  in  others  they  do  not 
care  a  rap  about  us  either  way.  Many  Latin  Americans  are 
distrustful  and  suspicious  of  our  nation  from  a  political  point 
of  view.  They  dislike  the  boorish  and  supercilious  manner 
of  some  of  our  half -educated  traveling,  railroad,  and  mining 
men,  although  Americans  of  broader  intelligence  and  better 
manners  are  well  liked.  Even  in  Peru,  which  country,  if  any, 
is  supposed  to  be  especially  friendly,  a  prominent  statesman, 
F.  Garcia  Calderon,  in  his  recent  book  on  Latin  America,  ex- 
pressed grave  fears  of  the  Yankee  Peril,  more  serious  than 
that  of  the  Germans. 

Pleasant  speeches  at  dinner  should  not  blur  the  fact  that 
Latin  Americans  are  more  enthusiastic  about  Latin  America 
than  Pan  America.  Capital,  to  be  sure,  from  any  quarter 
is  welcomed  in  undeveloped  countries  and  decidedly  better 
bargains  will  not  be  despised.  Ecuador,  Peru,  and  Bolivia 
gladly  accept  our  money  for  internal  development,  but  Brazil, 
Chile,  and  Argentina,  as  a  rule,  get  what  they  need  from 
Europe,  nearly  a  billion  and  a  half  dollars  being  invested  in 
Argentina  by  Great  Britain  alone.  It  is  time  to  realize  that 
it  is  for  our  interest  more  than  theirs  to  cultivate  friendly 
and  commercial  relations  with  South  Americans.  They  will 
not  be  neglected  by  others  or  suffer  greatly  if  we  do  not  favor 
them  with  our  presence  and  regard.  To  undertake  the  estab- 
lishing of  commercial  relations  with  the  idea  that  it  is  a  con- 
descension on  our  part  is  a  mistake  certain  to  interfere  with 
the  rapid  extension  of  business. 

It  is  obvious  that  only  those  American  goods  which  are 
exclusive  or  which  require  no  tariff  advantage  can  long  com- 
pete successfully  on  even  terms  abroad  with  European  wares, 
now  sold  by  active  enterprising  business  men  determined  to 
keep  and  increase  their  trade. 

An  important  and  primary  consideration  is  the  willingness 
and  ability  to  conform  to  South  American  custom  in  regard 
to  credit;  it  is  rulable  to  defer  payment  from  three  to  six 
months  after  the  delivery  of  the  goods,  the  price  being  fixed 
accordingly  or  interest  being  added.  Such  credit,  readily 


362  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

granted  by  European  firms,  must  be  given  by  ours  in  order 
to  secure  extensive  trade.  In  some  quarters  an  idea  is  cur- 
rent that  South  American  credit  is  not  generally  good,  but 
shippers  of  many  years'  experience  assert  that  customers 
there  are  quite  as  reliable  and  honest  as  those  in  Europe  or 
the  United  States.  Furthermore,  certain  New  York  shippers 
take  charge  of  and  guarantee  the  collections,  so  that  no  loss 
is  possible.  Where  results  have  been  unsatisfactory  it  has 
often  been  due  to  the  incompetence  or  dishonesty  of  the 
agent  rather  than  to  the  Latin  American  with  whom  he  dealt. 
Naturally  suitable  precautions  should  be  taken  and  careful 
scrutiny  exercised,  as  not  every  one  is  honest  in  any  quarter 
of  the  globe. 

As  an  aid  in  investigating  credit,  as  well  as  for  other  rea- 
sons, the  establishment  of  American  banks  in  the  various 
countries  is  an  urgent  necessity.  Rumors  as  to  plans  for  these 
have  long  been  abroad,  but  as  yet  nothing  has  been  accom- 
plished. Few  of  our  houses  may  be  capable  of  organizing  a 
great  chain  of  banks  like  that  of  London  and  La  Plata;  those 
who  might  apparently  do  not  wish  to,  or  they  are  awaiting 
the  passage  of  the  currency  bill.  But  in  any  of  our  large 
cities  capital  might  be  raised  to  organize  a  single  bank  in 
Rio,  Montevideo,  Buenos  Aires,  or  other  cities,  which  would 
be  a  valuable  center  of  credit  information  as  well  as  of  ex- 
change. Under  able  and  cautious  management  such  banks 
would  be  of  great  service  to  our  exporters  and  repay  the 
investors  with  10  or  12  per  cent  dividends  if  not  more. 

Much  has  been  said  about  American  Steamship  Lines  os 
an  encouragement  to  our  commerce.  While  it  would  indeed 
be  a  pleasure  to  see  the  Star  Spangled  Banner  now  and  again 
floating  from  vessels  in  foreign  ports,  this  is  of  less  conse- 
quence than  the  banks.  If  neither  business  judgment  nor 
patriotism  impels  our  multi-millionaires  to  build  up  a  mer- 
chant marine,  our  needs  will  be  supplied  by  others.  Already 
we  have  excellent  bi-weekly  passenger  service  from  New  York 
to  Buenos  Aires  arid  every  week  steamers  to  Rio.  On  the 
completion  of  the  Canal  we  shall  have  weekly  service  from 
New  York  down  the  West  Coast  by  at  least  two  good  lines 
of  steamers.  In  addition  a  large  number  of  freight  steamers 
is  already  plying  to  each  side. 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRACE  363 

With  favorable  consideration  in  regard  to  embarking  on 
foreign  trade,  or  even  as  a  preliminary,  some  ordinary  geo- 
graphical knowledge  and  a  slight  acquaintance  with  local 
conditions,  easily  procured,  is  highly  desirable.  It  is  not  a 
prepossessing  introduction  for  a  gentleman  to  receive  a  letter 
directed  "Buenos  Aires,  Brazil  or  Chile,"  as  often  happens, 
this  being  one  degree  worse  than  if  Brazil  or  Chile  were  used 
alone,  as  the  former  address  betrays  not  merely  ignorance  but 
the  man's  indifference  to  his  display  of  it.  The  common 
practice  of  mailing  letters  with  insufficient  postage  is  still 
more  annoying,  and  is  absolutely  inexcusable. 

Many  of  our  largest  industries  and  some  smaller  ones  al- 
ready have  an  excellent  trade  with  South  America,  so  that  on 
the  average  the  United  States  stands  third  in  the  value  of 
goods  imported  into  the  various  countries.  Great  Britain  is 
first  and  Germany  second.  One  meets  their  representatives 
everywhere. 

As  from  six  weeks  to  three  months  will  pass  before  an 
answer  may  be  received  to  one's  letter  addressed  to  the  United 
States  Consul  resident  in  the  various  countries,  it  is  the  more 
important  to  learn  as  much  as  possible  at  home  of  the  char- 
acter of  the  different  localities,  the  variety  of  climate  and 
productions,  the  condition  of  the  people  and  their  require- 
ments ;  some  of  which  information  may  be  found  in  the  valu- 
able monthly  Bulletin  of  the  Pan  American  Union,  in  the  ex- 
cellent Semi-Monthly,  The  South  American,  and  in  the  multi- 
tude of  books  recently  written  on  the  various  countries. 

With  even  the  slightest  knowledge  one  might  avoid  the 
absurdity  of  sending  lawn  mowers  to  Iquique,  a  barren  desert 
where  for  the  few  and  expensive  plots  of  grass  not  only  the 
water  but  the  soil  is  imported ;  or  rubber  boots  to  Lima,  where 
only  a  slight  drizzle  is  ever  experienced  and  small  probability 
exists  of  need  in  the  back  country;  or  old-fashioned  chande- 
liers on  a  three-foot  stem  to  places  where  electricity  is  em- 
ployed or  where  the  ceilings  are  15  feet  high.  If  ordinary 
precautions  had  not  been  ignored,  it  would  seem  foolish  to  say 
that  before  shipping  goods  one  should  ascertain  whether  such 
articles  are  wanted  in  that  locality. 

It  is  well  to  note  that  except  in  the  ease  of  some  novelty, 
the  people  know  what  they  want  and  insist  upon  having  it. 


364  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

They  will  not  take  what  we  think  they  ought  to  want  or  what 
is  convenient  for  us  to  send.  The  Latin  Americans  are  quite 
as  fashionable  and  up-to-date  as  we  are ;  the  Indians,  on  the 
contrary,  want  the  same  thing  year  after  year  and  for  cen- 
turies. If  their  trade  is  desired  their  taste  must  be  catered 
to,  for  others  are  ready  to  supply  what  they  want  if  we  do  not* 

Permanent  commercial  interests  alone  should  be  sought. 
Great  injury  has  been  inflicted  upon  the  reputation  of  our 
merchants  by  the  unjustifiable  conduct  of  manufacturers,  who 
in  dull  times  have  sent  men  abroad  to  take  orders  ,•  then,  busi- 
ness at  home  reviving  and  rush  orders  being  received,  they 
have  turned  back  to  their  old  customers,  ignoring  the  new 
and  leaving  their  orders  unfilled,  careless  of  their  embarrass- 
ment and  inability  to  supply  their  needs  from  any  local  mar- 
ket. Such  trade  permanently  reverts  to  the  British  dealers 
upon  whose  steadiness  they  can  rely. 

It  would  seem  a  gracious  act  if  some  of  our  large  manu- 
facturers, instead  of  wanting  the  whole  earth,  should  cultivate 
the  South  American  trade,  certain  to  prove  profitable,  and 
leave  some  of  their  home  market  to  be  taken  care  of  by  smaller 
people  not  so  well  prepared  for  the  conquest  of  distant  fields. 

The  changeableness  sometimes  exhibited  seems  extraordi- 
nary. An  American  in  Bolivia  engaged  in  a  large  business 
with  Indians,  after  much  urging  and  time  spent,  was  per- 
suaded by  a  traveling  man  from  New  Orleans  to  give  him  an 
order  for  a  thousand  dollars'  worth  of  goods  to  be  delivered 
within  six  months.  About  the  time  they  were  expected,  the 
American  received  a  letter  saying  that  the  firm  had  concluded 
not  to  fill  any  orders  to  Bolivia  1 

A  difficulty  frequently  experienced  where  cash  sales  have 
been  made,  and  an  excessive  annoyance  to  the  purchaser,  is 
that  a  draft  sent  at  the  same  time  with  the  goods  if  not  earlier 
reaches  the  consignee  a  week,  a  month,  or  more  before  the  ar- 
rival of  the  merchandise.  A  month's  interest  is  lost  by  the 
purchaser,  with  the  goods  not  in  hand.  When  they  do  arrive 
they  are  often  not  as  ordered,  deficient  in  quantity  and  qual- 
ity, and  naturally  that  is  the  end. 

It  should  be  superfluous  to  say  that  merchandise  should 
be  up  to  the  quality  of  the  sample,  but  not  so.  Such  hap- 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  365 

penings,  common  at  home,  will  not  work  abroad  where  the 
tariff  is  level  and  competition  free. 

Further,  the  goods  must  "be  precisely  like  the  sample,  not 
even  something  better.  Men  who  order  two-wheeled  vehicles 
do  not  want  four-wheeled.  The  latter  in  some  sections  are 
impossible.  The  assumption  that  people  do  not  know  what 
they  want,  or  the  carelessness  which  permits  of  gross  mistakes 
in  shipping  goods  thousands  of  miles  is  evidence  of  crude 
business  ideas  and  methods. 

In  most  sections  a  slight  difference  in  price  is  not  so  keenly 
regarded  as  the  quality  of  the  goods  and  the  steadiness  of 
price.  It  is  more  agreeable  to  them  that  an  article  should 
be  sold  for  30  cents  through  a  period  of  years  than  that  it 
should  vary  from  25  or  28  cents  to  32. 

Careful  packing  of  goods,  a  matter  of  the  greatest  impor- 
tance, has  for  years  been  continually  urged,  without  avail  or 
with  but  slight  improvement.  It  is  as  true  now  as  seven  or 
eight  years  ago  that  packages  from  the  United  States  on  the 
dock  in  South  American  ports  may  be  picked  out  on  account 
of  their  disreputable  appearance.  Boxes  splitting  open,  bags 
and  bales  ripping  apart,  many  goods  lost  or  ruined,  is  the 
continual  complaint.  Of  course  there  are  exceptions.  Some 
houses  may  have  reformed. 

A  United  States  official,  writing  for  goods  to  his  New  York 
druggist,  charged  him  particularly  about  the  packing.  The 
bottles  arriving  in  a  pasteboard  box  were  broken.  Again  he 
tried  with  definite  instructions  and  the  same  result.  The 
next  order  went  to  England,  where  it  was  properly  filled. 

The  persistence  in  ignoring  expert  advice  is  extraordinary. 
Agents  in  South  America  often  send  explicit  directions  as  to 
packing,  the  size  and  weight  of  boxes,  etc.,  without  the 
slightest  effect.  Goods  are  dispatched  in  a  500  or  1000  Ib.  box 
to  a  region  where  they  must  be  transported  on  the  back  of 
llamas,  whose  load  is  100  Ibs.  The  box  is  left  on  the  dock  or 
at  the  railway  station ;  the  goods  are  never  used. 

New  York  shippers  report  that  much  freight  reaches  them 
in  a  condition  impossible  to  embark  on  the  long  journey.  It 
must  be  refused  or  repacked.  These  are  curious  commen- 
taries on  the  supposedly  superior  business  ability  of  Amer- 


366  THE  SOUTH  AMEBICAN  TOUR 

leans.    The  splendidly  bound  boxes  and  bales  of  British  goods 
are  in  striking  contrast. 

On  the  East  Coast  transportation  by  water  and  rail  is  gen- 
eral, though  not  complete.  On  the  West,  Chile  is  well  served 
with  railroads,  Bolivia's  are  rapidly  developing,  but  an  enor- 
mous region  remains,  especially  in  Bolivia,  Peru,  and  Ecuador, 
where  transportation  by  mules,  burros,  llamas,  and  Indians 
will  long  continue  to  be  the  only  methods, 

A  material  factor  in  securing  South  American  trade  where 
agents  are  employed  is  the  sending  of  suitable  and  competent 
men.  One  of  our  largest  houses,  noted  for  the  rather  su- 
perior quality  of  its  salesmen,  admitted  that  they  had  by 
experience  discovered  that  some  who  were  very  good  salesmen 
here  did  not  succeed  there.  Precisely  why  Americans  should 
be  so  reluctant  to  follow  advice  from  experts  on  subjects  of 
which  they  are  ignorant  is  a  puzzle ;  but  it  is  a  fact  that  the 
preaching  of  many  men  for  many  years  seems  largely  to  have 
fallen  on  deaf  ears.  We  should  comprehend  that  South 
Americans  are  not  ignorant  barbarians,  that  in  general  they 
have  more  culture,  often  more  education,  than  our  business 
men,  that  their  manners  are  much  better,  and  that  if  we  desire 
their  business  we  must  adapt  ourselves  in.  some  degree  and 
treat  them  with  courtesy  and  not  arrogance.  To  speak  of  them 
as  monkeys,  savages,  and  dagoes,  even  so  as  to  be  overheard, 
to  commit  other  acts  of  unpardonable  rudeness  in  churches 
and  elsewhere,  boorishly  to  inform  them  that  they  are  half  a 
century  behind  the  times,  are  acts  which  might  seem  incred- 
ible but  are  by  no  means  rare.  A  man  who  is  thoroughly  con- 
vinced of  his  own  superiority  and  who  regards  the  courteous 
amenities  of  life  practiced  by  Latin  Americans  as  silly  and 
time  wasting,  as  an  evidence  of  insincerity  and  of  a  lack  of 
practical  common  sense,  who  fancies  himself  above  the  con- 
ventions of  dress  and  manners  as  practiced  in  the  cities  vis- 
ited, and  as  they  are  in  Europe,  who  would  rush  and  push  his 
wares  is  likely  to  make  an  unfavorable  impression  and  to  learn 
that  more  haste  is  less  speed.  • 

.It  should  be  obvious  that  to  accomplish  much  a  man  must 
speak  the  languages  of  the  countries  visited.  What  success 
would  a  man  speaking  no  English  have  in  the  United  States? 
Spanish  is  current  in  all  the  Republics  save  Brazil;  there  it 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TEADE  367 

is  understood  by  all  persons  of  education,  and  may  do  fairly 
in  the  large  cities ;  but  for  an  extended  tour  or  a  long  stay  in 
Brazil  a  knowledge  of  Portuguese  is  essential. 

Two  extremes  are  noticed  by  the  observant  traveler  in  South 
America,  each  of  which  appears  objectionable.  Some  Amer- 
ican goods  are  sold  at  one-half  or  one-quarter  of  the  home 
price ;  which  might  cause  the  disinterested  layman  to  conclude 
that  our  tariff  needed  revising;  other  articles  are  sold  at  dou- 
ble or  triple  the  price  at  home  (not  always  the  fault  of  the 
duty),  a  practice  in  the  long  run  likely  to  prove  unprofitable. 
Thus  a  popular  sewing  machine  was  bought  a  few  years  ago  in 
Arequipa  at  one-fourth  the  price  in  Boston.  White  paper 
made  in  the  United  States  is  cheaper  in  Chile  than  in  Chicago. 
On  the  other  hand,  in  La  Paz,  shoes  worth  $2.50  cost  $5.50  to 
$6.00,  kerosene  oil  sold  at  about  $5.00  for  a  case  of  10  gallons, 
a  can  of  corned  beef  costs  80  cents ;  and  ham,  60  to  80  cents 
a  Ib.  The  last,  put  up  by  a  Chicago  packer,  could  be  pur- 
chased more  cheaply  at  retail  from  an  English  firm,  having 
come  by  way  of  London,  than  at  wholesale  from  the  Chicago 
agent  on  the  ground;  and  the  home  office  would  not  take  a 
direct  order.  "Whether  the  price  was  according  to  the  plans 
of  the  home  office,  or  the  idiosyncrasy  of  the  agent  anzious  to 
make  his  fortune  in  a  hurry,  is  unknown.  That  some  agents 
are  arbitrary  in  their  charges  might  be  judged  from  the  fact 
that  boots  sold  at  Mollendo  for  $5.00  a  pair  were  priced  in 
La  Paz  at  $14.00. 

The  sharp  practice  of  some  salesmen  is  greatly  to  the  dis- 
advantage of  others.  The  man  who  sold  a  snow-plow  to  some 
one  on  the  coast  lands  of  Peru  on  the  plea  that  the  climate 
would  change  on  the  completion  of  the  canal  no  doubt  prides 
himself  on  his  smartness,  indifferent  to  the  fact  that  he  has 
done  much  to  discredit  Americans  in  all  that  region.  Many 
seem  to  think  that  patriotism  consists  simply  in  "blowing" 
about  their  country ;  that  they  might  do  it  a  better  service  by 
honorable  conduct  and  courteous  demeanor  does  not  occur 
to  them. 

I  have  heard  that  in  many  places  on  the  plateau,  as  prob- 
ably in  the  interior,  it  is  customary  to  charge  the  poor  Indians 
who  earn  but  50  or  75  cents  a  day  double  the  already  high, 
price  which  a  white  man  is  asked  for  the  same  article,  a 


368  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

sample  no  doubt  of  the  justice  and  fair  dealing  for  which  we 
are  told  that  men  are  distinguished,  but  in  which  women  are 
said  to  be  lacking. 

Ten  dollars  a  day  has  been  allowed  as  a  suitable  sum  for 
traveling  expenses,  and  one  following  the  railroads  and  not 
being  burdened  with  heavy  samples  might  find  this  sufficient. 
In  the  interior  where  many  pack  animals  must  be  employed, 
or  with  a  large  supply  of  baggage  to  go  by  rail,  and  in  Brazil 
and  Argentina  where  heavy  license  fees  must  be  paid,  the 
fifteen  dollars  a  day  asserted  by  a  recent  traveler  to  be  neces- 
sary may  be  desirable.  It  depends,  too,  a  good  deal  upon  the 
skill  and  character  of  the  man. 

The  tax  on  commercial  travelers  who  sell  goods  or  who 
merely  exhibit  samples  and  take  orders  is  an  item  to  be  con- 
sidered in  connection  with  other  expenses.  In  some  countries 
a  separate  license  must  be  obtained  for  each  Province  or  De- 
partment, corresponding  to  our  States;  in  others  for  each 
Municipality.  A  few  countries,  more  liberal,  exact  no  fee 
whatever. 

Beginning  with  Ecuador,  $50  is  here  charged  for  one  visit. 

In  Peru  no  license  is  required  for  commercial  travelers, 
but  there  are  certain  regulations  as  to  samples.  If  they  are 
such  as  would  enter  free  of  duty  no  charge  is  made.  If  the 
articles  are  dutiable,  one  of  each  kind  and  variety  is  permitted 
free  entry,  providing  the  importer  presents  in  duplicate  an 
itemized  description  of  packages  and  articles,  pays  the  duty 
in  cash  or  with  bank  draft,  and  within  three  months  exports 
these  samples,  thereupon  receiving  back  the  cash  or  bank  draft 
which  he  has  deposited.  Should  there  be  any  deficiency  or 
substitution  of  articles,  double  duty  will  be  exacted  and  the 
article  substituted  will  be  confiscated. 

If  samples  enter  Peru  by  Mollendo  to  go  to  Bolivia,  not  to 
return  by  the  same  route,  they  are  dutiable,  unless  the 
Peruvian  Consul  in  La  Paz  sends  a  certificate  that  the  samples 
have  entered  Bolivia.  The  duty  previously  paid  is  then 
refunded.  A  fee  of  $12.50,  TJ.  S.  gold,  is  charged  by  the  city 
of  Arequipa  as  a  license  in  that  particular  section. 

Bolivia  is  a  more  expensive  country  to  visit  and  for  that 
reason  is  omitted  from  the  itinerary  of  many  travelers.  The 
policy  of  the  Government  seems  particularly  injudicious  in 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TEADE  369 

view  of  the  fact  that  their  country  is  out  of  the  way,  that  it 
has  no  great  cities,  and  that  large  sales  are  required  to  cover 
the  additional  time  and  cost  of  the  journey  even  without  the 
considerable  fee  exacted. 

Further,  each  municipality  collects  a  fee  for  itself;  there 
is  no  general  tax.  The  fee  varies  according  to  the  class  of 
goods  but  in  general  for  La  Paz,  the  chief  city  (pop.  80,000), 
is  300  lol.  or  $116.70  U.  S.  gold,-  never  more.  The  author- 
ities of  Coehabamba  are  said  to  charge  1000  bol.  for  the  priv- 
ilege of  selling  in  their  pretty  city,  while  Oruro  demands  but 
100  ~bol.  As  to  other  cities  inquiry  must  be  made  in  the 
country.  There  is  talk  of  reducing  the  Coehabamba  fee  and 
perhaps  the  Bolivian  Government  will  soon  realize  that  the 
country  will  do  better  to  adopt  the  more  liberal  policy  of  her 
neighbors,  Peru  and  Chile.  It  should  be  added  that  if  two 
persons  go  together  as  representatives  of  the  same  house  each 
one  is  obliged  to  pay  the  tax. 

Chile,  like  Peru,  is  extremely  favorable  to  the  commercial 
traveler,  requiring  no  permits  and  no  duty  on  the  samples, 
unless  in  whole  pieces  of  stuff  or  in  complete  sets  of  objects. 
Six  months  are  allowed  in  which  to  reship  samples  free  of 
duty. 

The  sections  of  the  East  Coast  are  much  more  exacting. 

Argentina,  noted  for  high  prices  generally,  also  has  large 
license  fees ;  these  not  for  the  country  as  a  whole,  but  for  each 
individual  State  or  Province.  A  license  covering  the  Federal 
Capital,  Buenos  Aires,  costs  500  Arg.  pesos,  paper,  $212.30  U. 
S.  gold,  and  is  good  for  one  year.  Each  State  has  its  own  ad- 
ditional charge,  mainly  good  for  a  whole  year,  though  a  few 
have  half  rates  for  six  months  and  one  or  two,  monthly 
licenses.  These  permit  either  selling  goods,  or  showing  sam- 
ples and  taking  orders. 

Not  to  enumerate  all  of  the  various  districts  it  may  be  said 
that  the  fees  vary  from  nothing  in  Neuquen  to  1680  pesos, 
about  $700  U.  S.  gold,  in  Salta;  all  of  the  remaining  fees  ex- 
cept those  of  Tucuman,  Entre  Rios,  and  Mendoza,  which  are 
600  pesos  ($255),  being  less  than  that  of  Santa  Fe,  which  is 
400  pesos,  about  $170,  per  annum.  Samples  of  no  value  pay 
no  duty;  on  others  the  duty  which  is  paid  is  refunded  if  the 
samples  are  exported  within  six  months.  In  some  places  a 


370  THE  SOUTH  AMEEIOAN  TOUR 

difference  is  made  in  the  license  fee  if  but  one  line  of  samples 
is  offered. 

In  Paraguay  license  fees  are  charged  in  each  of  the  five 
chief  cities,  varying,  according  to  the  importance  of  the  firm 
represented,  from  $84  gold  to  $385.  At  other  points,  the 
license  is  one-third  the  amount  in  these  cities.  An  advisory 
board  of  merchants  fixes  the  class  to  which  each  traveler 
belongs,  five  classes  altogether.  No  extra  charge  for  repre- 
senting more  than  one  firm.  No  distinction  for  selling  with- 
out samples.  No  tax  for  samples  if  taken  out  within  six 
months. 

Uruguay  is  said  to  charge  100  pesos  or  $103.42  U.  S.  gold, 
for  the  calendar  year,  the  license  expiring  December  31.  Ap- 
plication to  the  Chief  of  Police  of  Montevideo  on  paper  with 
a  50  cent  stamp  being  made,  the  certificate  issued  must  be 
presented  to  the  Director-General  of  Indirect  Taxes  to  obtain 
the  required  license.  Samples  entered  under  bond  are  not 
subject  to  duty.  According  to  the  Consul  General  of  Uru- 
guay a  license  for  the  city  of  Montevideo  only,  all  that  most 
persons  care  for,  is  issued  for  ten  pesos,  $10.35. 

Brazil  requires  no  federal  tax  of  commercial  travelers  but 
the  States  and  cities  more  than  make  up  this  deficiency.  As  a 
milreis  is  practically  33  cents,  or  three  milreis  about  one  dol- 
lar, only  one  figure  need  be  given. 

Para  charges  300$"  (i  e.,  milreis)  as  a  State  tax  per  annum, 
and  365$  for  the  city  on  each  visit.  If  goods  are  actually 
sold,  trader's  or  hawker's  license  is  also  required. 

In  Pernambuco  there  is  no  State  tax,  and  but  53$»for  the 
city  of  Fortalezain  Ceara. 

Bahia  charges  100$  for  a  yearly  license,  but  it  must  be 
renewed  if  one  leaves  the  country  and  returns. 

No  license  is  required  in  Rio  unless  goods  are  sold,  when  a 
trader's  license  is  necessary. 

Sao  Paulo  State  has  no  tax  but  the  city  has  a  fee  of  1000$ 
and  the  city  of  Santos  500$. 

The  State  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul  has  a  tax  of  150$  for  sell- 
ing in  cities,  100$  for  towns,  80$  for  other  places.  The  cities 
of  Porto  Alegre,  Pelotas,  and  Sao  Gabriel  exact  each  a  license 
fee  of  200$,  Uruguayana  300$,  Bage  800$,  Sao  Borga  60$. 

A  power  of  attorney  is  generally  necessary  if  agents  are 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TEADE  371 

to  receive  money,  this  to  be  filed  with  a  notary  public  who 
supplies  copies  in  Portuguese  on  request. 

Samples  of  no  value  pay  no  duty,  but  if  worth  more  than 
one  milreis  duty  is  levied.  The  amount  is  deposited  in  the 
Custom  House  and  if  the  goods  are  checked  and  sent  out  from 
the  same  port  the  duty  will  be  returned. 

The  Central  Eailway  has  a  mileage  book  and  the  Leopoldina 
Eailway  gives  a  discount  of  20  per  cent  on  samples  and  on 
fares  of  travelers. 

Information  on  various  matters  may  be  found  in  the  latest 
Exporters'  Encyclopaedia;  and  is  furnished  to  members  by 
the  Pan  American  States  Association,  the  National  Association 
of  Manufacturers,  and  the  American  Manufacturers  Export 
Association. 

As  to  the  resources  of  the  South  American  countries  and  the 
variety  of  goods  which  may  be  exported  thither  to  advantage, 
these  things  are  set  forth  in  detail  in  many  books,  in  consular 
reports,  and  in  back  numbers  of  the  Pan  American  Bulletin, 
to  be  found  in  our  large  libraries.  I  have  here  space  for  a 
few  remarks  only.  Since  the  continent  as  a  whole  is  still 
thinly  settled  and  largely  undeveloped,  its  productions  and 
exports  are  chiefly  mineral  and  agricultural,  its  imports  manu- 
factured goods,  as  is  the  ease  generally  with  young  countries. 
Conditions  in  some  respects  resemble  those  in  the  United 
States  half  a  century  ago.  Everywhere  railways  are  being 
laid,  and  bridges  built;  towns  are  needing  sewers,  electric 
lights,  street  cars,  and  all  modern  improvements.  The  great 
cities  are  for  the  most  part  supplied  with  these,  but  many 
smaller  ones  are  thinking  about  them  or  have  merely  made 
a  beginning. 

Material  and  equipment  for  the  building  and  operation  of 
railroads  are  needed  in  every  country,  bridge  building  ma- 
terial as  well.  Our  steel  men,  our  locomotive  and  car  builders 
have  been  wide  awake  to  such  matters  and  are  doing  excellent 
business  in  some  of  the  countries.  Where,  as  in  Argentina, 
most  of  the  railways  are  financed  with  British  capital,  Amer- 
icans have  less  chance  in  proportion  than  in  those  countries 
where  American  capital  is  considerably  employed,  as  in 
Ecuador,  Peru,  and  Bolivia. 

Agricultural  machinery  of  almost  every  kind  and  agricul- 


372  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 

tural  tools  are  in  great  demand  on  the  East  Coast,  on  the 
vast  estates  of  Argentina,  to  some  extent  in  Uruguay  and 
Brazil.  They  have  a  smaller  sale  on  the  West  Coast,  where 
mining  machinery  is  one  of  the  prime  necessities.  Electrical 
apparatus  of  all  kinds  is  everywhere  needed  and  is  largely 
supplied  by  the  General  Electric  and  other  companies. 

Although  most  of  the  countries  have  coal,  the  mines  are 
not  greatly  developed  except  in  Chile;  hence  much  is  im- 
ported; a  good  deal  of  lumber  also,  in  spite  of  immense  forests, 
as  yet  unavailable  save  in  a  few  localities. 

In  all  of  the  countries  the  chief  import  is  textiles,  princi- 
pally from  Europe,  though  the  United  States  furnishes  a  good 
deal  of  the  coarse  grades  of  cotton,  canvas,  etc.  Industrial 
machinery,  automobiles  and  other  vehicles,  utensils,  hardware, 
corrugated  iron,  sewing  machines,  paper  of  various  kinds, 
motors,  scales  and  balances,  surgical  and  mathematical  instru- 
ments, pianos  and  piano  players,  petroleum,  gasoline,  etc., 
lubricating  oils,  typewriting  machines;  canned  goods,  par- 
ticularly on  the  "West  Coast,  including  milk,  meat,  and  salmon, 
especially  for  miners,  also  used  in  the  rubber  country ;  leather 
goods,  boots  and  shoes,  watches,  soap,  druggists'  supplies  and 
medicines,  lard,  twine,  motors,  dynamite,  arms  and  ammuni- 
tion, fence  wire,  pumps,  pipings  and  fittings,  tin  plate,  glass, 
porcelain,  watches,  phonographs,  photographic  material,  and 
all  kinds  of  novelties  and  general  merchandise  are  among  the 
articles  imported;  a  few  animals,  chiefly  blooded  stock  from 
Europe. 

Should  one  desire  to  engage  in  business  for  himself  in  any 
of  the  Republics,  there  are  good  openings  for  persons  with 
capital  who  speak  the  language.  Persons  without  money  are 
warned  by  our  consuls  not  to  go,  unless  they  have  a  definite 
engagement  or  are  specialists  in  certain  lines  where  experts 
are  pretty  sure  to  be  desired. 

It  is  unwise  to  trust  implicitly  the  stories  about  wonderful 
mines,  though  these  doubtless  exist  If  genuine,  they  are 
often  impossible  to  exploit  without  an  enormous  outlay  of 
capital  as  was  the  case  with  the  Cerro  de  Pasco  mines ;  more- 
over, as  thousands  if  not  millions  of  people  have  been  deceived 
about  mines  in  the  United  States  and  in  regard  to  many  other 
money  making  schemes,  it  is  still  more  foolish  to  give  credence 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  373 

to  tales  promising  untold  wealth  in  those  distant  countries. 
"With  the  best  of  intentions  the  enthusiast  is  liable  to  be  mis- 
taken and  deliberate  fraud  is  common;  therefore,  caution  is 
ever  needed.  Yet  with  careful  investigation  opportunities  in 
almost  any  line  may  be  found  in  some  one  of  these  rapidly 
developing  countries,  superior  to  those  afforded  in  more 
thickly  settled  regions  of  the  earth. 

CONCERNING  THE  COUNTRIES  INBIVIDUAUL.Y. 

Ecuador.  In  Ecuador,  it  may  be  noted,  the  United  States 
stands  second  among  importing  nations.  As  a  place  for  in- 
vestment, enterprise,  and  residence,  it  has  advantages  and 
disadvantages.  The  coast  region,  on  account  of  excessive 
rainfall,  humidity,  and  heat,  has  a  less  agreeable  and  healthful 
climate  than  the  rainless  Peruvian  shores  with  their  moderate 
temperature;  malaria  and  yellow  fever  being  endemic  in 
Guayaquil,  though  probably  not  everywhere  on  the  coast. 

The  sierra  and  montana  regions  of  the  two  countries  are 
quite  similar,  the  high  valleys  of  the  sierra  district  enjoying 
a  healthful  and  delightful  climate.  The  natural  resources 
resemble  those  of  Peru,  although  the  chief  exports  are  dissim- 
ilar. Ecuador's  cocoa  plantations  are  her  largest  source  of 
wealth  and  supply  her  principal  export.  Vegetable  ivory, 
fruit  of  the  tagua  palm,  is  another  important  article  of  pro- 
duction, most  useful  in  making  buttons.  The  manufacture  of 
Panama  hats  is  an  industry  long  flourishing.  Some  coffee  and 
rubber  are  exported,  also  hides;  and  sugar  cane  is  raised. 
Eich  mineral  resources  are  undoubted ;  gold,  mercury,  copper, 
iron,  coal,  lead,  platinum,  and  silver;  these  still  undeveloped; 
petroleum  and  sulphur  are  found.  Many  manufacturing  in- 
dustries are  carried  on  in  a  small  way,  but  such  goods  are 
mainly  imported:  textiles,  food  stuffs,  clothing,  drugs,  boots 
and  shoes,  paper,  leather,  crockery,  vehicles,  etc.,  are  some  of 
the  importations,  with  material  for  railroad  building  and  roll- 
ing stock.  As  the  development  of  the  country  is  regarded  as 
twenty-five  years  behind  that  of  Peru,  it  would  naturally 
afford  better  opportunities  in  some  directions  and  poorer  in 
others.  Eailroads  are  planned  in  several  directions. 

Peru.  The  Eepublic  of  Peru  presents  probably  the  great- 
est variety  of  climate,  soil,  and  productions,  to  be  found  in 


374  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

any  portion  of  the  globe.  Along  its  1200  miles  of  coast  may 
be  raised  in  the  irrigated  valleys  nearly  all  tropical  and  tem- 
perate products.  In  the  sierras  will  be  found  practically  every 
variety  of  mineral,  and  in  one  place  or  another  climates  to 
suit  every  taste.  Whatever  one  may  desire  is  therefore  to  be 
procured  within  its  borders,  although  not  all  points  are 
equally  accessible. 

The  coast  lands  present  unique  advantages  for  agriculture, 
in  that  the  climate  may  be  depended  upon;  there  is  no  fear 
of  drought,  of  sudden  storms,  or  of  frost,  and  though  within 
the  tropics  there  is  no  excess  of  heat. 

Of  50,000,000  acres  capable  of  irrigation  in  this  section  but 
2,000,000  now  have  the  facilities,  and  of  these  not  all  are  em- 
ployed; hence  there  is  ample  room.  The  difficulty  is  lack  of 
capital  and  sometimes  of  labor. 

The  chief  export  of  Peru  is  sugar;  and  if  our  Louisiana 
planters  on  account  of  tariff  reduction  feel  like  making  a 
change,  they  will  find  in  Peru  an  ample  field  where  four  tons 
to  the  acre  are  produced  and  a  price  of  1%  cts.  a  Ib.  will 
bring  a  profit. 

Cotton  plantations  offer  excellent  opportunities;  the  best 
qualities  grow  well,  Sea  Island,  Upland,  etc. ;  also  the  native 
Peruvian  which  brings  the  highest  price  of  all,  being  hardly 
distinguishable  from  wool.  Yet,  as  it  takes  several  years  to 
come  into  bearing  (it  lives  10  or  15  years),  the  Upland  which 
bears  in  six  months  is  preferred  by  many.  In  southern  Peru 
vineyards  and  orchards  are  a  specialty,  fruits  most  delicious, 
figs,  melons,  grapes,  chirimoias,  olives,  and  paltas,  with  vege- 
tables, and  with  alfalfa,  wheat,  and  maize.  Tobacco  is  raised 
in  various  sections  and  coffee  in  many,  none  finer  in  the 
world. 

The  sierra  country  is  full  of  minerals:  gold,  silver,  lead, 
copper,  quicksilver,  tungsten,  cinnabar,  vanadium,  anything 
you  can  mention.  Every  kind  of  coal  is  found,  though  as  yet 
the  mines  are  mostly  undeveloped  for  lack  of  transportation 
facilities ;  oil  of  fine  quality  exists  along  the  coast  in  Tumbes, 
in  Puno  near  Lake  Titicaea,  and  in  other  sections ;  borax  in  the 
Arequipa  district ;  iron  in  many  quarters ;  peat  in  Junm.  On. 
the  plateau,  besides  minerals  galore,  are  excellent  cattle  lands  ; 
many  sheep  are  raised,  Scotch  shepherds  and  collies  here  look- 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  375 

ing  after  them ;  the  native  hreed  is  crossed  with  imported  me- 
rinos, making  good  stock,  furnishing  5  to  8  Ibs.  of  wool  per 
head.  Alpacas  every  two  years  yield  from  6  to  9  Ibs.  of  bet- 
ter wool,  while  the  vicuna  furnishes  a  smaller  supply  of  still 
finer  grade. 

The  east  side  of  the  mountains  is  rather  difficult  of  access, 
but  not  too  far  down,  affords  a  delightful  climate;  a  colony 
willing  to  work  would  find  pleasant  homes  in  various  localities. 
In  valleys  near  Cuzco  is  the  finest  of  cocoa,  in  the  Chaneha- 
mayo  or  Perene  Valley  back  of  Lima  and  Oroya  are  millions 
of  coffee  trees,  lower  down  is  plenty  of  rubber.  Some  is  ex- 
ported by  way  of  Mollendo  from  the  Inambari,  Timbopata 
districts,  more  by  Iquitos  and  Para  from  the  Ucayali,  the 
Putomayo,  and  other  sections.  While  men  frequently  say 
that  they  do  not  go  to  such  countries  for  their  health,  it  is 
indeed  a  pity  that  some  seem  to  forget  that  they  are  human 
beings  and  treat  the  inoffensive  natives  in  a  manner  far  worse 
than  savages.  In  these  regions  the  heat  and  humidity  are 
unpleasant  and  in  limited  sections  unhealthy,  though  the 
dangers  are  by  some  over-estimated.  Many  papers  and  maga- 
zines publish  sensational  stories  of  adventure,  often  knowing 
them  to  be  exaggerated;  all  books  do  not  justly  represent  con- 
ditions. Many  stories  of  hardship,  when  true,  are  merely 
evidence  of  ignorance  and  bad  judgment,  utterly  foolish  con- 
duet  quite  inexcusable,  in  sections  where  others  have  experi- 
enced not  the  slightest  difficulty. 

Persons  with  moderate  capital  not  interested  in  mining  or 
agriculture  might  find  it  profitable  to  undertake  manufactur- 
ing in  certain  lines.  There  are  now  in  the  country  a  few 
factories  for  cotton,  woolen,  biscuit  making,  chocolate,  fruit 
preserves,  cocaine,  and  matches ;  also  flour  mills. 

There  is  opportunity  for  electrical  power  in  many  places, 
for  installing  electric  lights,  sewers,  water  pipes,  etc. 

Provisions  are  in  certain  sections  extremely  cheap,  in  others 

»very  dear,  on  account  of  transportation  difficulties.    Lima  is 

called  expensive  and  it  would  seem  that  eggs  and  chickens 

might  be  profitably  raised  near  by,  also  dairy  products  and 

other  supplies. 

At  present  the  chief  exports  from  Peru  in  the  order  of 
their  value  are  minerals,  sugar,  cotton,  rubber,  wool,  petro- 


376  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUR 


^  guano,  Panama  hats,  hides  and  skins,  ice,  cocaine,  coca, 
coffee.  The  leading  imports  are  textiles,  coal,  machinery,  etc.  ; 
from  the  United  States,  machinery,  wood,  drugs,  meats,  bread- 
stuffs,  shoes,  coal,  hardware,  arms  and  ammunition,  soap, 
vehicles,  instruments  and  apparatus,  general  merchandise. 

It  should  be  noted  in  connection  with  Peru,  that  machinery 
and  supplies  for  railroad  construction  and  for  mining  are  ad- 
mitted free  of  duty  ;  also  as  an  item  of  great  importance,  that 
the  export  tax  on  rubber  is  less  than  one-quarter  of  that  ex- 
acted by  Brazil  and  a  little  smaller  than  the  one  fixed  by  Bo- 
livia. For  this  reason  the  country  is  especially  favorable  for 
the  extension  of  the  rubber  industry. 

Bolivia.  The  products  of  Bolivia  are  like  those  of  Peru 
except  that  its  agricultural  resources  are  as  yet  little  devel- 
oped. Hence  there  is  more  importation  of  food  stuffs  ;  flour 
is  an  article  of  export  from  the  United  States,  as  well  as  pre- 
serves and  suet.  Canned  stuffs  are  useful  to  the  mining  and 
railroad  people.  Cartridges,  leather  goods,  soap,  kerosene, 
furniture,  clothing,  dynamite,  firearms,  copper  wire,  iron  and 
steel,  vinegar,  Florida  water,  wood,  agricultural  tools,  mining 
machinery,  lard,  cotton,  cameras,  sewing  machines,  typewrit- 
ers are  other  imports. 

Bolivia  presents  excellent  opportunities  for  mining.  Tin 
of  first  importance,  silver,  copper,  and  bismuth  are  now  the 
chief  mineral  exports,  although  rich  deposits  of  gold  are  at- 
tested. 

The  montana  country  presents  conditions  similar  to  Peru, 
for  the  rubber  industry,  for  the  raising  of  coffee,  coca,  qui- 
nine, and  other  products.  A  grain  called  quinua,  cultivated 
on  the  plateau,  is  said  to  be  more  nutritious  than  wheat.  The 
alpaca  and  vicuna  here  flourish,  the  former  supplying  15  Ibs. 
of  wool  every  other  year.  Persons  who  find  the  plateau  region 
cheerless  might  enjoy  the  agricultural  section  part  way  down 
the  eastern  slope  of  the  mountains;  thus  a  San  Francisco 
gentleman,  many  years  resident  of  the  Garden  City,  Cocha- 
bamba,  over  whose  climate  and  future  prospects  he  speaks 
with  enthusiasm.  Tarija,  farther  south,  has  a  delightful  cli- 
mate and  equal  prospects. 

One  American  living  on  the  plateau  has  been  doing  a  thriv- 
ing business  by  making  monthly  trips  to  the  interior  150  miles 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  377 

to  the  east,  selling  goods  at  the  haciendas  and  the  Indian  vil- 
lages, $10,000  worth  on  a  trip,  and  bringing  back  fruit  and 
vegetables  to  the  cities  above. 

The  several  lines  of  railway  just  completed  and  several 
more  in  construction  make  certain  the  immediate  development 
and  rapid  progress  of  this  country.  The  possibilities*  for  the 
production  of  wool  are  very  large  and  also  for  cattle  raising. 
The  climate  of  a  large  part  of  the  country  is  healthful  and 
agreeable,  and  residence  in  La  Paz  and  other  cities  is  enjoyed 
by  many  Americans.  Bolivia's  rapid  development  and  pros- 
perity is  assured, 

Chile.  The  country  of  Chile,  curiously  unique  in  shape, 
being  excessively  long  and  thin,  extends  over  2000  miles  from 
north  to  south,  with  a  width  of  from  105  to  248  miles  from 
east  to  west.  Although  so  narrow,  it  has  each  way  three  well 
marked  divisions :  from  north  to  south,  the  rainless,  desert  and 
nitrate  region,  within  and  near  the  tropics;  the  temperate 
central  section,  a  rich  agricultural  district  with  considerable 
rainfall;  and  the  southern  portion,  with  too  much  precipita- 
tion, rain,  snow,  and  fogs,  largely  a  forest  land  with  some 
swamps  and  grazing  country.  Along  the  entire  shore  runs 
the  Coast  Cordillera  with  an  altitude  ranging  from  1000  to 
6000  or  7000  feet ;  then  comes  a  plateau  or  valley,  in  the  far 
south  a  drowned  valley  with  straits  and  fjords,  and  at  the 
east  the  great  Andes  Mts.,  the  height  of  which  forms  the  east- 
ern boundary  line. 

A  variety  of  climate  and  scenery  is  obviously  presented, 
agreeable  to  dwellers  in  the  Temperate  Zone.  Aside  from  the 
strictly  tropical  productions,  almost  everything  found  in  Peru 
and  Bolivia  is  here  provided ;  minerals  galore,  especially  cop- 
per, iron,  and  coal,  with  gold,  silver,  etc.,  in  addition  to  the 
world  famed  nitrates,  and  iodine.  Petroleum  and  natural  gas 
have  recently  been  discovered.  Noted,  like  California,  for  its 
fine  fruits  and  vegetables,  the  central  section  affords  ample 
field  to  increase  their  production.  Here,  too,  the  raising  of 
grain  and  of  forage  plants  is  extensively  practiced;  stock 
farming  is  a  great  source  of  wealth,  Chilian  horses  are  of 
noted  excellence,  and  cattle  flourish.  Viticulture  and  apicul- 
ture are  profitable,  the  export  of  honey  being  important.  At 
the  south,  the  growing  lumber  business  offers  a  fine  field  to 


378  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUR 

experts,  as  well  as  the  valuable  fisheries.  The  already  large 
sheep  raising  interests  are  chiefly  in  the  territory  of  Magellan. 
The  canning  industry  both  as  to  fruits  and  fish  may  be 
developed  with  great  profit.  Manufactured  goods  are  pro- 
duced to  the  extent  of  $130,000,000  worth  a  year.  Railway 
building,  which  has  been  rapidly  progressing,  will  for  some 
years  continue  to  be  an  important  field  of  labor.  The  Govern- 
ment has  planned  to  expend  within  this  decade  many  millions 
of  dollars  for  public  works,  hydraulic  and  maritime,  for  irri- 
gation, public  buildings,  and  railways. 

The  imports  include  such  things  as  sugar  and  coffee,  also 
petroleum  from  Peru ;  from  the  United  States,  mineral  prod- 
ucts, especially  steel  and  coal,  with  machinery  of  various 
kinds,  paper,  vegetable  produce,  textiles,  chemicals,  etc. 

Presenting  conditions  similar  to  our  own  West  Coast,  includ- 
ing the  earthquakes,  the  British  and  German  settlers  in  the 
country  have  as  much  enthusiasm  for  their  new  home  as  have 
immigrants  to  California.  In  scenery,  climate,  and  oppor- 
tunities, Chile  offers  unusual  attractions. 

I  had  forgotten  to  state  that  valuable  oyster  beds  exist  in 
the  Gulf  of  Ancud,  and  that  on  the  island  of  Chiloe  two  crops 
a  year  of  excellent  potatoes  may  be  grown. 

Argentina.  Argentina  with  its  great  plains  is  entirely  dif- 
ferent from  the  "West  Coast  countries.  From  its  configura- 
tion, its  development,  especially  its  railroad  building,  has  been 
a  far  simpler  proposition.  It  was  easy  to  raise  cattle  and  with 
the  profits  thus  obtained  to  cultivate  immense  agricultural 
properties.  Almost  every  kind  of  vegetable  production  is  to 
be  found  in  this  great  Republic,  and  the  rewards  of  agricul- 
ture and  stock  raising  have  been  quite  equal  to  the  wealth  of 
the  mines  elsewhere  and  far  more  useful. 

The  plague  of  locusts  is  an  occasional  drawback,  but  not 
serious  enough  greatly  to  interfere  with  the  grand  total  of 
production.  As  the  boundaries  on  the  west  extend  along  the 
height  of  the  Andes,  some  mineral  wealth  exists  on  their  slopes, 
but  the  possibilities  in  stock  and  wheat  raising  have  been  too 
attractive  for  much  attention  to  be  devoted  to  mining  mat- 
ters. The  agricultural  products,  wheat,  oats,  and  linseed  run 
up  into  millions  of  tons;  the  quantity  of  exports  of  these  sur- 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TEADE  375 

passes  in  value  those  of  the  United  States,  while  that  of  meat 
exported  is  vastly  greater.  "With  their  small  population  rela- 
tive to  the  extent  of  territory  it  is  certain  that  for  many  years 
Argentina  will  raise  cattle  and  sheep  enough  to  help  out  the 
more  thickly  settled  portions  of  the  globe.  To  enter  into  such 
enterprises  to-day  of  course  capital  is  needed,  though  some  of 
the  present  day  millionaires  went  thither  with  nothing  and 
worked  their  way  to  fortune.  Wages  for  mechanics  are  good, 
and  in  some  other  lines,  but  expenses  also  are  large.  Accord- 
ing to  the  number  of  inhabitants  Argentina  has  more  railways 
than  the  United  States,  though  not  in  proportion  to  the  extent 
of  territory.  Almost  everything  is  imported  into  the  country 
except  meat  and  agricultural  products,  our  share  of  the  im- 
ports being  less  than  half  that  of  Great  Britain. 

The  northern  and  southern  sections  of  Argentina  still  afford 
splendid  opportunities  to  the  pioneer,  presenting  a  wide  choice 
of  climate  and  variety  of  employment.  In  the  tropical  and 
sub-tropical  regions  of  the  north  are  immense  forests  for 
exploitation  with  quebracho,  laurel,  palms,  and  woods  in  end- 
less variety,  lands  suitable  for  the  culture  of  coffee,  sugar 
cane,  yerba  mate,  cotton,  rice,  hemp,  mandioca,  and  banana, 
and  in  places  farther  south  or  on  uplands,  soil  for  barley, 
wheat,  corn,  alfalfa,  tobacco,  the  vine,  etc. 

The  central  pampa  is  of  course  the  especial  region  for  ce- 
reals, wheat,  corn,  and  flax,  and  thi^is  not  entirely  pre-empted. 
In  Patagonia  at  the  south  there  is  a  great  field  for  raising 
cattle,  sheep,  goats,  horses,  guanaco,  and  the  ostrich,  as  for 
alfalfa,  wheat,  and  barley,  though  in  the  greater  part  irriga- 
tion is  necessary  for  agriculture.  With  moderate  capital 
pioneers  of  experience  and  skill  should  be  able  to  amass  large 
fortunes. 

From  lack  of  coal,  if  not  of  water  power,  it  is  probable  that 
agricultural  and  animal  products  will  long  continue  to  be  the 
chief  exports  of  Argentina  and  that  manufactured  goods  will 
be  the  principal  imports.  Textiles  and  manufactures  of 
these  are  of  the  greatest  value,  iron  and  steel  articles  come 
second,,  railway  cars  and  equipment  and  other  vehicles  third, 
then  come  building  materials,  earth,  stone  and  coal,  and  so  on, 
every  kind  of  merchandise  in  use  in  a  civilized  country. 


380  THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  TOUE 

Goods  that  sell  in  New  York  and  Paris  are  likely  to  sell  in 
Buenos  Aires,  only — the  Pure  Food  Law  is  strict.  Chicago 
hams  are  barred,  though  British  hams  are  admitted. 

Our  farming  machinery  and  tools  have  been  largely  sold, 
yet  by  some  the  machinery  is  called  too  light  to  last  and  an 
English  make  is  preferred.  An  Australian  machine,  called  a 
cropper,  a  thrasher  and  harvester  combined,  has  been  received 
with  much  favor.  Duties  generally  are  very  high. 

For  successful  competition  in  foreign  markets,  the  highest 
grade  of  our  goods  must  be  presented  and  business  contracts 
strictly  carried  out. 

Paraguay,  with  a  healthful  sub-tropical  climate,  possesses 
splendid  forests  with  woods  similar  to  those  of  the  Argentine 
Chaeo,  great  plains  supporting  many  herds  of  cattle,  and  land 
capable  of  producing  excellent  cotton,  tobacco,  fruit,  and  all 
kinds  of  tropical  growths.  The  yerba  mate  which  grows  wild, 
but  may  be  cultivated,  is  one  of  the  chief  exports,  bound  to 
increase  rapidly,  as  the  beverage,  more  healthful  than  tea  or 
coffee,  is  extremely  popular  even  with  the  European  immi- 
grants, and  in  foreign  countries.  Hides,  quebracho  extracts, 
and  timber  are  exports  of  still  greater  value.  The  character 
of  the  imports  is  much  the  same  as  in  the  neighboring  coun- 
tries. Railroad  building  is  going  on,  and  in  spite  of  recent 
war,  internal  development  is  in  progress.  Railway  material 
is  free  of  duty  as  is  the  case  also  with  agricultural  and  indus- 
trial machinery,  ship  building  material,  wire  fencing,  etc. 

Uruguay,  with  a  fine  temperate  climate  and  a  pleasant  roll- 
ing country,  is  attractive  to  settlers  with  an  eye  to  cattle 
raising  or  agriculture.  Americans  of  this  class,  as  well  as 
business  men  and  investors  in  any  line,  are  cordially  welcomed 
by  Uruguayans,  and  finding  the  atmosphere  more  homelike 
than  in  some  other  places  they  are  well  content  to  stay. 
While  agriculture  and  the  live  stock  industry  are  the  chief 
activities,  there  are  local  manufacturing  interests  which  do 
not,  however,  begin  to  supply  the  market.  Railway  extension 
is  in  progress,  and  the  navigable  rivers  are  an  important 
accessory. 

By  far  the  greatest  export  is  animal  production,  including 
wool,  skins  and  hides,  meat  and  meat  extracts,  etc.,  while  agri- 
cultural products  are  a  distant  second. 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  TRADE  381 

The  imports  are  similar  to  tli6se  of  Argentina,  including 
practically  everything  which  it  does  not  export. 

Brazil,  like  Peru,  embraces  within  its  borders  an  immense 
variety  of  resources,  and  a  considerable  though  smaller  diver- 
sity of  climate.  On  the  highlands  of  the  tropics  it  is  comfort- 
ably cool,  as  well  as  in  the  south.  In  many  quarters  it  is 
temperate  and  even  subject  to  frost,  in  a  few  places  to  snow. 

The  magnitude  of  its  wealth  in  rubber,  coffee,  and  all  trop- 
ical and  sub-tropical  productions  is  well  understood;  the  rich- 
ness of  its  mineral  deposits  is  less  known.  Still  less  perhaps 
is  the  fact  that  Brazil  is  larger  than  the  United  States  proper, 
and  that  it  contains  six  cities  of  100,000  or  more  population, 
including  one  of  400,000,  Sao  Paulo,  and  Rio  with  approxi- 
mately a  million. 

Everything  is  included  within  her  boundaries,  and  whatever 
one's  taste  in  business,  apart  from  polar  exploration,  there  is 
room  for  its  gratification  here — opportunities  for  the  settle- 
ment of  colonies  in  delightful  climate  and  surroundings  on 
the  richest  soil,  if  persons  care  to  indulge  in  agriculture,  and 
locations  equally  favorable  for  entering  into  mining  or  com- 
mercial industry.  Cattle  raising  is  a  growing  occupation. 
Food  stuffs  in  Rio  being  very  dear,  market  gardening  could 
be  engaged  in  to  excellent  advantage  in  many  spots  on  the 
highlands  at  no  great  distance  by  rail  from  the  capital.  A 
similar  opportunity  exists  near  Buenos  Aires,  though  as  land 
in  the  vicinity  is  held  at  a  high  price  it  would  be  necessary  to 
go  farther  out  on  the  railway,  or  across  the  river  into 
Uruguay. 

The  coffee  plantations  of  Brazil  are  already  so  extensive 
as  to  make  entrance  into  that  business  undesirable  if  not  im- 
possible, except  by  the  purchase  of  plantations  already  in 
bearing.  Aside  from  coffee  and  rubber,  the  chief  agricultural 
products  are  rice,  cotton,  sugar,  yerba  mate  or  Paraguay  tea, 
mandioca,  and  cacao,  or  cocoa.  Many  manufactured  goods 
are  now  produced,  mainly  of  the  ordinary  necessities  of  life, 
leaving  plenty  of  room  for  importation.  It  is  desired  to 
increase  such  industries.  Inducements  are  offered  by  the 
Federal  Government  for  establishing  ironworks,  the  State  of 
Rio  has  granted  large  privileges  to  the  first  flour  mill,  and  a 
subsidy  to  a  firm  making  paper  from  the  reed  papyrus  which 


382  THE  SOUTH  AMEEICAN  TOUE 

grows  all  along  the  coast  Manufactures  of  rubber  would  be 
very  profitable  on  account  of  the  20  per  cent  export  tax  on 
rubber  and  the  high  tariff  on  imports.  Steam  laundries,  fruit 
canneries,  chemical  works,  and  other  industries  may  be  inau- 
gurated to  advantage  in  various  places. 

From  the  United  States  is  imported  a  great  variety  of 
articles,  railway  cars  and  locomotives,  automobiles,  machinery 
of  many  Mnds,  sewing  machines,  typewriters,  apples,  general 
merchandise,  and  other  articles  without  end. 

Railways  are  being  rapidly  extended  and  planned  for  the 
future,  and  aside  from  the  rubber  business  every  kind  of  in- 
dustry and  commercial  activity  may  be  pursued  amid  agree- 
able and  healthful  surroundings. 

It  is  desirable  that  one  wishing  to  enter  into  business  of 
any  Mnd  in  South  America  should  make  the  tour  and  see  for 
himself  the  character  of  the  country  and  the  opportunities 
offered.  At  the  very  least,  he  should  read  a  number  of  the 
many  books  which  have  been  written,  although  some  of  these 
contain  a  few  errors  and  others  which  have  been  published  ten 
years  give  wrong  ideas  on  account  o£  the  rapid  changes ;  from 
perusing  several  of  the  latest  works  a  fair  idea  of  conditions 
will  be  gained.  Also  the  poor  consuls  will  be  grateful,  both 
those  of  the  United  States  in  foreign  countries  and  their  rep- 
resentatives here,  if  people  will  at  least  use  an  atlas  and  a 
geographical  reader  if  nothing  more  before  writing  letters,  so 
that  they  will  not  bother  these  hard-worked  officials  with  abso- 
lutely foolish  questions.  It  should  not  be  necessary  for  con- 
suls to  give  information  which  every  schoolboy  ought  to  pos- 
sess, although  I  fear  he  does  not. 

When  children  and  grown  people  are  ignorant  of  the  names 
of  the  capitals  of  the  various  States  in  the  Union,  it  is  perhaps 
too  much  to  expect  them  to  know  whether  Lima  is  on  the  Bast 
Coast  or  the  "West,  or  whether  Argentina  is  a  breakfast  food 
or  a  fish.  If  my  labors  incite  others  to  seek  further  informa- 
tion and  especially  to  make  the  delightful  South  American 
Tour,  I  shall  feel  that  I  have  performed  a  genuine  service. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 

A  list  of  some  recent  books  on  South.  America  is  appended. 
By  no  means  complete,  it  includes  works  for  the  most  part 
easily  obtainable.  While  some  of  these  present  merely  super- 
ficial observation,  and  few  profess  to  be  exhaustive,  all  to  the 
average  reader  will  be  more  or  less  instructive  and  entertain- 
ing. A  legitimate  difference  of  opinion  exists  as  to  people, 
places,  and  possibilities;  other  contradictory  assertions  arise 
from  too  hasty  judgments.  Errors,  however,  are  generally  of 
minor  importance,  although  in  some  cases  wrong  impressions 
of  people  and  places  are  conveyed.  On  account  of  rapid 
changes  the  books  published  within  the  last  five  or  eight  years 
are  especially  valuable ;  yet  some  of  those  earlier  written  sup- 
ply important  information  on.  particular  subjects.  To  gain 
a  fair  idea  of  the  various  countries  several  general  works 
should  be  read  and  a  few  of  those  on  the  individual  Republics. 

Monographs  on  each  of  these,  published  by  the  Pan  Ameri- 
can Union,  may  be  procured  at  $1.00  a  copy. 

The  large  and  handsomely  illustrated  volumes  on  Peru, 
Bolivia,  Chile,  and  Brazil  by  Marie  Robinson  "Wright,  with 
some  negligible  extravagance  of  compliment,  contain  much 
that  is  of  value  and  hardly  procurable  elsewhere;  historical 
information  and  descriptions  of  the  general  aspect,  the  re- 
sources, and  the  conditions  of  the  various  countries,  presented 
with  unusual  fulness,  accuracy,  and  elegance. 

SOUTH  AMERICA  IN  GENERAL 

PAN  AMERICAN  UNION — PEACE,  FRIENDSHIP,  COMMEECE. 
John  Barrett,  Washington,  Pan  American  Union.  1911. 
$1.00. 

LATIN  AMERICA,  ITS  RISE  AND  PROGRESS.  F.  Garcia  Calderon. 
New  York,  Charles  Scribner's  Sons.  1913.  $3.00. 

SOUTH  AMERICA.  "William  D.  Boyce.  Illustrated.  Chicago, 
Band,  MeNally  &  Co.  1913.  $2.50. 

383 


384  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

ACROSS   UNKNOWN   SOUTH   AMERICA.    W.    Savage   Landor. 
Boston,  Little,  Brown  &  Co.    1913. 

THROUGH  SOUTH  AMERICA.    H.  W.  Van  Dyke.    New  York, 
Crowell  Publishing  Co.    1912.    $2.00. 

SOUTH    AMERICA,    OBSERVATIONS   AND    IMPRESSIONS.    James 
Bryee.    New  York,  The  Macmillan  Co.    1912.    $2.50. 

SOUTH  AMERICA.  Forrest  Koebel.  With  colored  illustrations. 
New  York,  The  MacmiUan  Co.  1912.  $5.00. 

A  WOMAN'S  WINTER  IN  SOUTH  AMERICA.  Charlotte  Cam- 
eron. B'oston,  Small,  Maynard  &  Company.  1912.  $1.50. 

HISTORY  OP  SOUTH  AMERICA.  C.  B.  Akers.  New  York,  E.  P. 
Button  &  Co.  1912.  $6.00. 

SOUTH  AMERICAN  ARCHAEOLOGY.  T.  A.  Joyce.  New  York, 
G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons.  1912.  $3.50. 

SOUTH  AMERICAN  PROBLEMS.  Bobert  E.  Speer.  New  York, 
Student  Volunteer  Movement.  1912.  75  cents. 

SOUTH  AMERICA  TO-PAY  (ARGENTINA,  URUGUAY,  BRAZIL). 
G.  E.  B.  Clemenceau.  New  York,  G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons. 
1911.  $2.00. 

FOLLOWING  THE  CONQUISTADORES  ALONG  THE  ANDES  AND  DOWN 
THE  AMAZON.  H.  J.  Mozans.  New  York,  D.  Appleton 
&Co.  1911.  $3.50. 

THE  LAND  OF  THE  SOUTHERN  CROSS.  Charles  Warren  Cur- 
rier. Spanish  American  Pub.  Society.  1911.  $1.50. 

ACROSS  SOUTH  AMERICA.  Hiram  Bingham.  Boston,  Hough- 
ton,  MifflinCo.  1911.  $3.50. 

GREAT  STATES  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA.  Charles  W.  Domville- 
tfife.  New  York,  The  Macmillan  Co.  1910.  $4.50. 

PRACTICAL  GUIDE  TO  SOUTH  AMERICA.  Albert  B.  Hale.  Bos- 
ton, Small,  Maynard  &  Company.  1909.  $1.00. 

THE  ANDEAN  LAND.  Two  Volumes.  Chase  S.  Osborn.  Chi- 
cago, A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co.  1909.  $5.00. 

A  PLEASURE  PILGRIMAGE  IN  SOUTH  AMERICA.  C.  D.  Mackel- 
lar.  London,  John  Murray.  1908. 


BIBLIOGKAPHY  385 

THE  OTHER  AMERICANS.  Arthur  Buhl.  New  York,  Charles 
Scribner's  Sons.  1908.  $2.00. 

THE  CONTINENT  OF  OPPORTUNITY.  Francis  E.  Clark.  New 
York,  Fleming  H.  Eevell  Co.  1907.  $1.50. 

THE  SOUTH  AMERICANS.  Albert  B.  Hale.  Indianapolis, 
Bobbs-Merrill  Co.  1907.  $2.50. 

PANAMA  TO  PATAGONIA.    Charles  N.  Pepper.    A.  C.  MeClurg 

•  &  Co.    1906.     $2.50. 

THE  LAND  OP  TOMORROW.  J.  Orton  Kerbey.  New  York,  The 
Author.  1906.  $1.50. 

THROUGH  FIVE  REPUBLICS  (including  Brazil,  Uruguay,  Argen- 
tina). P.  F.  Martin.  New  York,  Dodd,  Mead  &  Co. 
1906.  $5.00. 

A  COMMERCIAL  TRAVEI^ER  IN  SOUTH  AMERICA.  Frank  Wiborg. 
McClure  Phillips.  1905.  $1.00. 

THE  SOUTH  AMERICAN  REPUBLICS.  Thomas  C.  Dawson.  2 
Vols.  G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons.  1904.  Each  $1.50. 

AROUND  AND  ABOUT  SOUTH  AMERICA.  Prank  Vincent.  New 
York.  D.  Appleton  &  Co.  1890.  $5.00. 

EXPORTERS'  ENCYCLOPEDIA  (Information  as  to  shipments  for 
every  country).  New  York.  1913.  $7.50. 

PANAMA. 

THE    PANAMA    GUIDE.    J.    0.    Collins.    Panama,   Vibert   & 

*  Dixon.    1912.    $1.50. 

PANAMA  AND  THE  CANAL  TODAY.  H.  A.  Forbes-Lindsay. 
Boston,  L.  C  Page  &  Co.  1912.  $1.20. 

PANAMA  CANAL,  WHAT  IT  is,  WHAT  IT  MEANS.  rjohn  Barrett. 
Washington,  Pan  American  Union.  1913.  $1.00. 

PANAMA,  PAST  AND  PRESENT.  Farnhain  Bishop.  New  York, 
Century  Co.  1913.  75c. 

THE  PANAMA  GATEWAY.  Joseph  Bueklin  Bishop.  New  York, 
Charles  Scribner's  Sons.  1913.  $2.50. 


386  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

ISTHMIAN  TOURISTS'  GUIDE  AND  BUSINESS  DIRECTORY.  Isth- 
mian Tourists '  Guide  and  Directory  Co.  1912.  $1.50. 

ECUADOR. 
TRAVELS  IN  THE  WILDS  OF  ECUADOR.    Alfred  Simpson. 

TRAVELS  AMONG  THE  GREAT  ANDES  OF  THE  EQUATOR.  Sir 
Edward  Whymper.  New  York,  Charles  Seribner's  Sons. 
$2.50. 

PERU. 

THE  OLD  AND  THE  NEW  PERU.  M.  R.  Wright.  Philadelphia, 
George  Barrie.  1908.  $10.00, 

PERU  IN  1906  BY  ALEXANDER  GARLAND.  Translated  by  George 
B.  Gepp.  London.  1907. 

PERU,  ITS  FORMS  AND  ITS  PRESENT  CIVILIZATION.  C.  R.  Enoek. 
New  York,  Charles  Scribner's  Sons.  1908.  $3.00. 

THE  INCAS  OF  PERU.  Sir  Clements  Markham.  New  York,  E. 
P.  Button  &  Co.  1910.  $3.00. 

PERU  OF  THE  TWENTIETH  CENTURY.  P.  F.  Martin.  London, 
Longmans,  Green  &  Co.  1911.  $4.20. 

THE  ANDES  AND  THE  AMAZON.  C.  E.  Enoek.  New  York, 
Charles  Scribner's  Sons.  1910.  $1.50. 

A  SEARCH  FOR  THE  APEX  OF  AMERICA.  Ajanie  S.  Peek.  New 
York,  Dodd,  Mead  &  Co.  1911.  $3.50. 

PACHACAMAC.  Max  Uhle.  The  University  of  Pennsylvania. 
New  York,  D.  Appleton  &  Co.  $10.00. 

PERU,  ITS  STORY,  PEOPLE  AND  EELIGION.  Geraldine  Guinness. 
New  York,  Fleming  H.  Eevell  Co.  1909.  $2.50. 

PERU  (chiefly  archaeological).  "E.  George  Squier.  New 
York,  Harper  &  Bros.  1877. 

T!HE  CONQUEST  OF  PERU.    "William  H.  Prescott 
GUIDE  TO  PERU.    A.  de  Clairmont.    • 

BOLIVIA. 

BOLIVIA,  THE  CENTRAL  HIGHWAY  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA.  M,  R. 
Wright.  Philadelphia,  George  Barrie.  1907.  $10.00, 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  387 

THE  BOLIVIAN  ANDES.  Sir  Martin  Conway.  New  York, 
Harper  &  Bros.  1901.  $3.00. 

ACROSS  THE  ANDES.  C.  J.  Post.  New  York,  Outing  Pnb.  Co. 
1912.  $1.75. 

A  SEARCH  FOR  THE  APEX  OF  AMERICA.  Annie  S.  Peck.  New 
York,  Dodd,  Mead  &  Co.  1911.  $3.50. 

CHILE. 

MODERN  CHILE.  W.  H.  Koebel.  New  York,  The  Maemillan 
Co.  1913.  $3.00. 

CHILE  AND  HER  PEOPLE  OF  TODAY.  Nevin  O.  Winter.  Bos- 
ton, L.  C.  Page  &  Co.  1912.  $3.00. 

CHILE;  ECONOMIC  AND  SOCIAL  PROGRESS.  Julio  Perez  Canto. 
Chicago,  Band,  McNally  &  Co.  1912.  $1.00. 

THE  REPUBLIC  OF  CHILE.  M.  R.  Wright.  Philadelphia, 
George  Barrie,  1905.  $10.00. 

CHILE.    G.  F.  Scott  Elliott.    Charles  Seribner's  Sons.    1911. 
$3.00. 

ACONCAGUA  AND  TIERRA  DEL  FUEGO.  Sir  Martin  Conway. 
London,  Cassell  &  Co.  1902.  $3.00. 

THE  HIGHEST  ANDES.  E.  A.  Fitz  Gerald.  New  York,  Charles 
Scribner's  Sons.  1899.  $6.00. 

ARGENTINA. 

MODERN  ARGENTINA.  W.  H.  Koebel.  Boston,  Dana  Estes 
and  Company.  1912.  $3.50. 

ARGENTINE  YEAR  BOOK.  Information  as  to  Patents,  Banks, 
Industries,  etc.  Buenos  Aires,  Robert  Grant  &  Co. 
London,  Ledger,  Son  &  Co.  1912.  $10.00. 

ARGENTINA  PAST  AND  PRESENT.  W.  H.  Koebel.  New  York, 
Dodd,  Mead  &  Co.  1911.  $4.00. 

ARGENTINA  AND  HER  PEOPLE  OF  TODAY.  Nevin  0.  Winter. 
Boston,  L.  C.  Page  &  Co.  1911.  $3.00. 

ARGENTINE  PLAINS  AND  ANDINE  GLACIERS.  Walter  Larden. 
New  York,  Charles  Scribner's  Sons.  1911.  $3.75. 


388  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

ARGENTINA.  "W.  A.  Hirst.  New  York,  Charles  Seribner's 
Sons.  1912.  $3.00. 

Tta  REPUBLIC  OF  ARGENTINA  (historical  and  descriptive). 
A.  Stuart  Pennington.  New  York,  A.  Stokes  &  Co. 

1910.  $3.00. 

THE  ARGENTINE  IN  THE  TWENTIETH  CENTURY  (valuable  as  to 
industries,  business  and  resources).  A.  B.  Martinez  and 
Mauriee  LewandowsM.  Boston,  Small,  Maynard  & 
Company.  $3.50. 

FORTY  YEARS  IN  THE  ARGENTINE  REPUBLIC.  Arthur  E. 
Shaw.  London,  Elkin  &  Matthews. 

THE  ARGENTINE  REPUBLIC  (for  exporters).  New  York,  J.  P. 
Santamarina,  80  Wall  St.  1911.  $2.50. 

PARAGUAY. 

UNKNOWN  PEOPLE  IN  AN  UNKNOWN  LAND.  W.  Barbrooke 
Grubb.  London,  Seeley  &  Co.  1911. 

PICTORIAL    PARAGUAY.    A.    K    Macdonald.    C.    H.    Kelly. 

1911.  $4.00. 

IN  JESUIT  LAND  (Jesuit  Missions  of  Paraguay  and  Argen- 
tina). W.  H.  KoebeL  1912.  $3.00. 

PARAGUAY.  M.  B.  Hardy.  New  York,  Charles  Scribner's 
Sons.  1913.  $3.00. 

URUGUAY. 

URUGUAY.  W.  H.  Koebel.  Charles  Seribner's  Sons.  1911. 
$3.00. 

BRAZIL. 

THE  NEW  BRAZIL.  M.  K.  Wright.  Philadelphia,  George 
Barrie.  1908.  $10.00. 

BRAZIL.  Pierre  Denis.  New  York,  Charles  Scribner's  Sons. 
1911.  $3.00. 

UNITED  STATES  OF  BRAZIL.  Charles  W.  Domville-Fife.  New 
York,  James  Pott  &  Co.  1911.  $2.50. 


BIBLIOGRAPHY  389 

BRAZIL  IN  1912  (for  business  men).  J.  C.  Oakenfnll.  Dis- 
tributed gratis  by  the  Pan  American  Union.  Washing- 
ton. 

BRAZIL  AND  HER  PEOPLE  OF  TODAY.  N.  0.  Winter.  Boston, 
L.  C.  Page  &  Co.  1910.  $3.00. 

THE  SEA  AND  THE  JUNGLE.    H.  M.  Tomlinson.    New  York, 
.       E.  P.  Button  &  Co.    1913.    $2.50. 

THE  FLOWING  KOAD.  Caspar  Whitney.  Philadelphia,  J.  B, 
Lippincott  Co.  1912.  $3.00. 

IN  THE  AMAZON  'JUNGLE.  A.  Lange.  New  York,  G.  P.  Put- 
nam's Sons.  1912.  $2.50. 

BY  HORSE,  CANOE,  AND  FLOAT  THBOUGH  THE  WILDERNESS  OF 
BRAZIL.  W.  A.  Cook.  New  York,  American  Tract  So- 
ciety. 1910.  $L25. 

BRAZIL  OP  TODAY.  Arthur  Bias  (Interesting  and  valuable). 
Lanneau  &  Despret,  Nivelles,  Belgium. 

BRAZIL,  THE  AMAZONS  AND  THE  COAST.  H.  H.  Smith.  New 
York,  Charles  Scribner's  Sons.  1870.  $5.00. 

AMERICAN  CONSUL  IN  AMAZONIA.  James  Orton  Kerbey. 
1911.  $2.50. 


INDEX 


Abruzzi,  Duke  of,  217. 

Abuna,  352. 

Achaeachi,  144. 

Aconcagua,  Mt.,  41,  49,  150,  179, 
191,  201,  202;  River,  199. 

Aguapehy,  R.,  353.         t 

Alagoas,  343. 

Almagro,  Diego  de,  44,  61,  62,  118, 
129,  130,  160. 

Alpacas,  123. 

Alto,  145,  147. 

Alto  Parana,  260. 

Amazon,  98,  345. 

Amfato,  Mt.,  109. 

Ancolacalla,  147. 

Ancon:  Panama,  33;  Peru,  87. 

Ancud,  Gulf,  192. 

Antilla,  9. 

Antofagasta,  64,  99,  156,  157,  158, 
159;  R.  R.,  150-153. 

Antonina,  293,  294. 

Apostoles,  261. 

Apurimac,  R.,  122. 

Araucanians,  160,  193. 

Arequipa,  99,  102-106,  109. 

Argentina,  213-267,  378-380. 

Ariea,  65,  146,  154;  R.  R.  to  La 
Paz,  146,  to  Tacna,  155. 

Arieoma  Pass,  110. 

Art  Galleries:  Lima,  73,  79;  San- 
tiago, 183;  Buenos  Aires,  242, 
243;    Asunci6n,   269;    Rio   de 
Janeiro,  322,  323. 
Arttgas,  Jose,  272,  273. 
Aspinwall,  Wm.  H.,  19. 
Asunci6n,  257,  263,  268-270. 


Atacama,  157. 
Atahuallpa,  44,  45,  114. 
Audiencia,  62,  63,  130,  161,  218. 
Ayacucho,  46,  97,  131. 
Aymaras,  124,  127,  135. 
Ayolas,  Juan  de,  217,  261. 

Baggage,  4. 

Bahia,  343,  353-357. 

Balboa:   Docks,  38,  43;   Hill,  13; 

Vasco  Nunez  de,  13. 
Balde,  214. 

Ballivian,  Dr.  Manuel  Vicente,  139. 
Balsas,  40,  125. 
Banks,  362. 
Barbados,  358. 
Barranco,  87. 
Bas  Obispo,  24,  25  . 
Beagle  Channel,  192. 
Beira  Mar,  330. 
Belem,  345-348. 
Bello  Horizonte,  341,  342. 
Beni,  R.,  140,  352. 
Billinghurst,  Guillermo,  President, 

71. 

Bio-bio,  R.,  193,  194. 
Black  Range,  56,  58, 
Blanco,  R.,  200. 
Bodegas,  210,  211. 
Bogota,  39. 
BoMo,  25. 
Bolivar,    General    Simon,    63,    64, 

131. 

Bolivia,  99,  123,  127-153,  376,  377. 
Botanical  Gardens:    Kingston,  9; 

Lima,  81;  Ardquipa,  105;  San- 


390 


INDEX 


391 


tiago,  182;  Buenos  Aires,  240; 
Montevideo,  280;  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  333;  Trinidad,  358. 

Botofogo  Bay,  331. 

Brazil,  286-359,  380-382. 

Bridgetown,  358. 

Buenaventura,  39. 

Buenos  Aires,  204,  207,  217-254. 

Cabral,  Pedro  Alvarez,  286. 

Cacheuta,  207. 

CacMpascana,  Lake,  109. 

Cajamarea,  45,  56. 

Caldera,  159. 

Cali,  39. 

Callao,  36,  43,  49,  59-61,  99. 

Callipulli,  193      . 

Campinas,  304. 

Canal,  Panama,  13-18. 

Canelones,  283. 

Cape  Horn,  191. 

Caraz,  56. 

Caribbean  Sea,  8. 

Casapalca,  94. 

Cata,  147. 

Cataeaos,  47. 

Cathedrals:  Santiago  de  Cuba,  9; 
Panama,  32;  Lima,  69;  Are- 
quipa,  103;  Cuzco,  116 ;  La 
Paz,  136;  Santiago,  173; 
Buenos  Aires,  227;  Monte- 
video, 275;  Sao  Paulo,  302; 
Eio  de  Janeiro,  318;  Para, 
346;  Bahia,  356. 

Caxambti,  343. 

Cayabamba,  41. 

Ceara,  344,  350. 

Cebollullo,  140. 

Cemeteries:  Valparaiso,  167;  San- 
tiago, 185-187;  Buenos  Aires, 
250. 

Central  Railway  of  Peru,  91-95. 

Cerro  de  Pasco,  58,  91,  95-97. 


Cerro  Gigante,  13. 

Cerro  San  Christobal:  Lima,  83, 

84,  85;  Santiago,  185. 
Chacabueo,  161,  215,  219. 
Chachani,  101, 102, 109. 
Chaco,  268. 

Chagres,  R.,  13,  22,  23,  24. 
Chan  Chan,  50-53. 
Chicla,  94. 

Chile,  154-200,  377,  378. 
Chili,  R.,  103. 
Chilian,  193. 
Chimborazo,  39,  41. 
Chimbote,  50;  R.  R.,  54,  55. 
Chimu,  Grand,  51,  52,  53. 
Chiquian,  58. 
Chiriqui,  27. 
Cholos,  73,  135. 
Cholula,  89. 
Choqquequirau,  122. 
Chorillos,  65,  86. 
Chosica,  91,  92. 
Christ  of  the  Andes,  204,  205. 
Christobal,  21. 
Chulpa,  124. 
Chufio,  138. 
Chupe,  135. 
Chuquiaguillo,  141. 
Chuquiapu,  R.,  129,  134. 
Chuquisaca,  see  Sucre. 
Climate,  2,  46. 
Clothing,  4. 
Coast  Range,  55. 
Cochabamba,  148. 
Cochrane,  Admiral,  63,  162,  195. 
Coelho,  Gonzalo,  308. 
Coffee,  304,  305. 
Colastine,  265. 
Colombia,  2,  39. 
Colon,  12,  18-21. 
Colonia,  283. 
Columbus,  8,  13,  21. 
Commercial  Travelers,  366,  368. 


392 


INDEX 


Conception,  193,  194. 

Conehi,  152. 

Condors,  205. 

Constitution,  192. 

Conway,  Sir  Martin,  .140,  146. 

Copacabana,  126. 

Copiap6,  159. 

Coquimbo,  157,  159. 

Corcovado,  312,  334,  335. 

Cordillera  Blanea,  58. 

Cordillera  Real,  125. 

Cordoba,  214. 

Coroeoro,  147. 

Coronel,  192,  193. 

Coropuna,  Mfc.,  41,  102. 

Corral,  195. 

Corrientes,  257,  258,  267. 

Cortez,  Hernando,  9. 

Cotopaxi,  39,  41. 

Credit,  361. 

Crncero  Alto,  109. 

Cruz,  Oswaldo,  Institute,  327. 

Culebra,  14,  15,  24,  25,  26. 

Cumbre,  97,  198,  203,  205. 

Curytiba  293,  294. 

Cuzco,  99,  106,  109, 110,  111-122. 

Darien,  27. 

Desaguadero,  R.,  124,  152. 

Desolation  Isl.,  195. 

Diamantina,  342. 

Docks:  Callao,  60;  Valparaiso, 
163;  Talcahuano,  193;  Buenos 
Aires,  253;  Rosario,  264;  San.- 
tos,  296;  Rio  de  Janeiro,  310, 
316;  Para,  345;  Manaos,  348. 

Duran,  40. 

Earthquakes,  59,  70,  103,  107,  154,' 

165,  188,  208,  209. 
Ecuador,  36,  39-42,  373. 
Empire,  25. 
Entre  Rios,  258,  265. 


Espirito  Santo,  343. 
Estancias,  215,  254,  255. 
Eten,  48. 

European  Tourists,  11. 
Expense  of  Journey,  3. 

Falkland  Islands,  192,  197. 
Fazendas,  304. 
Fitzgerald,  E.  A.,  201. 
Florianopolis,  292. 
Fortaleza,  344. 
Frijoles,  25. 

Galera  Tunnel,  94. 
Gamboa,  25. 
Garay,  Juan  de,  217. 
Gatun,  15,  16,  17,  23,  24. 
Geographical  Societies:  Lima,  62; 

La  Paz,  139;  Rio  de  Janeiro, 

319. 

Godin,  Madame,  351. 
Goethals,  Col.  George  W.,  15. 
Gorgas,  Col.  Wm.  C.,  34. 
Gorgona,  25. 
Goyllarisquisga,  96. 
Grace,  W.  R.,  4,  61,  74,  139,  166. 
Grau,  Admiral,  64. 
Guanabara  Bay,  308. 
Guaqui,  124,  125,  127. 
Guaraja  Bay,  345. 
Guaranls,  263. 
Guarina,  144. 
Guaruja,  297. 
Guaruja-Mirim,  351,  352. 
Guayaquil,  36,  37,  39,  40. 
Guianas,  2. 

Harvard  Observatory,  105. 

History:  Panama,  13,  14;  Peru,  44- 
46,  61-65;  Inca,  112-114;  Bo- 
livia, 129-132;  Chile,  160-162; 
Argentina,  217-220;  Paraguay, 
261-263;  Uruguay,  272-274; 
Brazil,  286-289,  308,  309. 


INDEX 


393 


Home,  353,  358. 

Horn,  Cape,  191,  195. 

Hotels:  Colon,  18,  19;  Panama,  26, 

27,  28;  Quito,  42;  Trujillo,  50; 

Chimbote,     55;     Callao,     61; 

Lima,     66-68;     Chosica,     92; 

Oroya,  95;   C.  de  Pasco,  96; 

Mollendo,  99;  Arequipa,  102; 

Cuzco,  112;  La  Paz,  129,  133; 

Valparaiso,     163,     164,     165; 

Santiago,  170,  171;  Mendoza, 

208;    Buenos   Aires,   222-225; 

Eosario,  264;   Asunci6n,  269; 

Monteviedo,  274,  275;  Santos, 

296;  Sao  Paulo,  300,  301;  Rio 

de  Janeiro,  311-314;  Petropo- 

lis,   338;    Para,    347;    BaMa, 

355. 

Huacapistana,  98. 
Huailas  Valley,  54,  55,  56. 
Huaina  Potosi,  Mt.,  145. 
Huallata  Pass,  145. 
Huaman,  88. 

Huancayo,  91,  95,  97,  122. 
Huanchacho,  51. 
Huandoy,  Mt.,  57. 
Huanuco,  98. 
Huaraz,  54,  58. 
Huascar,  44,  111,  114. 
Huascaran,  Mt.,  41,  49,  56-58,  203. 
Huatanay,  R.,  Ill,  119. 
Humayta,  267, 


Icarahy,  340  . 

Ignorance,  363,  382. 

Iguassu  Falls,   257,  258-260,   267, 

290,  291. 
Illampu,  Mt.,  41, 125,  127,  128,  144, 

145,  146. 
Illimam,  Mt.,   41,   125,    127,    128, 

140. 
Imports,  Character  of,  371-373. 


Incas,  Empire  and  Ruins,  113-116, 

117-122. 

Injurious  Practices,  363-367. 
Inquisition  Hall,  75. 
Inti-Karka,  125,  126. 
Iquique,  155-157. 
Iquitos,  97,  98,  349. 
Irala,  Capt.  Martinez  de,  261. 
Island  of  Sun,  124,  125. 
Island  of  Moon,  125. 
Isthmus  of  Panama,  12-35. 

Jamaica,  10. 

Jamiraya  Cafion,  147. 

Jatoba,  357. 

Jauja,  97. 

Jauru,  R.,  353. 

Jesuits,  260,  287. 

Joao  VI,  Prince,  288,  317,  322. 

Juarez  Ines,  187. 

Judiahy,  299. 

Juliaca,  99,  109,  110,  123. 

Juncal,  200,  203. 

JuDfn:  Peru,  95;  Argentina,  21§. 

Kingston,  10. 

La  Candelaria,  261. 

La  Guayra  Falls,  260. 

La  Herradura,  86. 

La  Merced,  97,  98. 

La  Paz,  99, 128-141,  144, 150. 

La  Plata,  255,  256;  River,  220. 

La  Punta,  59,  87  . 

La  Raya,  111. 

La  Viuda,  Mt.,  96. 

Lagoa  dos  Patos,  291. 

Lagunillas,  109. 

Las  Cascadas,  25. 

Las  Cuevas,  192,  201  . 

Leguia,  A.  B.,  ex-Pres.,  71,  85. 

Lesseps,  Ferdinand  de,  14,  21. 

Libraries:  Lima,  81;  La  Paz,  139; 


394 


INDEX 


Santiago,  184;  Buenos  Aires, 
245,  246;  AsunciSn,  269; 
Montevideo,  277;  Rio  Grande 
do  Sul,  291;  Sao  Paulo,  302; 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  321,  322; 
Babia,  356;  Bridgetown,  358. 

Licenses,  Trading,  368-371. 

Liebig,  283. 

Lima,  59,  60,  61,  66-85* 

Limon  Bay,  15. 

Lircai,  178. 

Llai-Llai,  169,  199. 

Llamas,  123,  134. 

Llanganuco  Gorge,  57* 

Llanquihue  Lake,  195. 

Lluta  VaUey,  147. 

Loa  R.,  153, 

Lopez:  Carlos  Antonio,  262;  Fran- 
cisco, 262,  268,  269. 

Los  Andes,  198,  199. 

Lota,  193,  194. 

Luque,  Hernando  de,  44. 

Lurin  Valley,  87,  88. 

Maechu  Pichu,  121. 

Mackenna,  215;  Benj.  VicuSa,  178, 

180. 

Mackenzie  College,  303. 
McKinley,  Mt.,  56,  107. 
Madera  or  Madeira-Mamore"  R.  R., 

141,  351,  352. 

Magdalena,  87;  Channel,  196. 
Magellan,  Straits  of,  191,  195-197. 
Majes  Valley,  102. 
Maldonado,  283. 
Malleco  R.,  193. 
MamorS  R.?  141. 
Manaos,  348,  349. 
Manzanillo,  20. 
Mapoeho  R.,  160,  170,  183. 
Marajo,  347. 
Maranbao,  344,  345. 
Marafion,  R.,  48,  97,  349. 


Mar  del  Plata,  256. 

Markbam,  Sir  Clements,  142,  143. 

Markets:  Panama,  32;  Lima,  74; 
Arequipa,  104;  Sicuani,  111; 
La  Paz,  137;  Santiago,  184; 
Buenos  Aires,  251;  Montevi- 
deo, 279;  Rio  de  Janeiro,  319; 
Para,  348. 

Matachin,  25  . 

Matarani  Bay,  100. 

Mate,  see  Yerba  Mate. 

Matto  Grosso,  351,  352. 

Matucana,  90,  93. 

Maule  R.,  192. 

May  si,  Cape,  8. 

Meiggs,  Henry,  54,  91 ;  Monte,  94. 

Melendez,  48. 

Mendoza,  191,  198,  205,  207,  208- 
211. 

Mendoza  Pedroxde,  217. 

Mercedario,  Mt.,  202. 

Mercedes,  216. 

Minas  Geraes,  341,  342. 

Mindi,  23. 

Mineral  Springs:  Agua  de  Jesus, 
108;  Yura,  108,  109;  Puente 
del  Inca,  202;  Cacbeuta,  207; 
Caxambu,  343. 

Mines:  Coal,  55,  193,  194;  Copper, 
51,  56,  96,  147;  Diamond,  342; 
Gold,  56,  141,  341;  Silver,  51, 
56,  96,  151,  152;  Vanadium, 
96. 

Miraflores:  Panama,  16,  26;  Peru, 
65. 

Miramar,  169. 

Misiones,  258,  260. 

Misti,  Mt.,  101,  102,  106,  107,  109. 

Mitre,  B.,  219. 

Moche,  53. 

Moleno,  147. 

Mollendo,  99,  100, 
Montafia,  90,  97. 


INDEX 


395 


Monte  Lirio,  24. 

Montes,  President,  132. 

Montevideo,  192,  274-282,  285,  289, 
291. 

Morgan,  Henry,  13. 

Moro,  58. 

Morococha,  95,  96. 

Morro  Velho  Mine,  268,  342. 

Mt.  Hope,  23. 

Mountain  Sickness,  90,  106. 

Muchi  R.,  51. 

Mufiiz,  216. 

Mu*^ums:  Lima,  78;  La  Paz,  139; 
Santiago,  183,  189,  190; 
Buenos  Aires,  243-245;  Monte- 
video, 275,  276,  278;  Sao 
Paulo,  303;  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
317,319,325;  Para,  347. 

Nanduty  Lace,  270. 

New  Gatun,  23. 

New  Orleans,  8. 

Niagara,  259. 

Nictheroy,  308,  340. 

Nitrates,  157,  158. 

Nombre  de  Dios,  13. 

North  Americans,  unpopular,  361. 

Novo  Friburgo,  340. 

Nusta  Espana,  122. 

Obrajes,  140. 

Old  Panama,  13,  34. 

Ollentaytambo,  121. 

Open  Door,  216. 

Organ  Mts.,  307,  339. 

Oroya,  94,  95;  R.  R.,  89-95. 

Oruro,    151; — Antofagasta  R.  R., 

151-153. 
Osorno,  195. 
Ouro  Preto,  342. 

Pacasmayo,  49. 
Pachacamac,  87-89. 


Pacific  Ocean,  43;  Discovered,  13. 
Packing,  365. 
Paita,  46,  47,  48. 
'  Palca,  98. 

Pampa  de  Arrieros,  109. 
Pamparomas,  58. 
Pan  American  Railway,  91,  97. 
Panama:    Canal,   14-18;    City,  26- 

34;  Republic,  27;  Hats,  47. 
Pao  do  Assucar,  307,  331. 
Paqueta,  IsL,  310  . 
Para,  140,  344,  345-349. 
Paraguay,    267-270,    380;     River, 

267,  353. 
Parahyba,  344. 
Parana  R.,  213,  220,  257,  261,  264; 

City,  265;  State,  291. 
Paranagua,  293,  294. 
Pardo,  Manuel,  64. 
PariSa,  Pt,,  46,  47. 
Patacamaya,  150. 
Patagonia,  213. 
Paulo  Affonso  Falls,  357. 
Pedras,  357. 

Pedro  I,  288;  II,  289,  339. 
Pedro  Miguel,  16,  24,  26. 
Pelotas,  292. 
Penadas,  357. 
Penitentes,  206. 

Pefia,  Roque  Saenz,  President,  220. 
Perene*,  98. 
Pernambuco,  343. 
Peru,  44-124,  373-376. 
Peru,  Alto,  130. 
Peruvian  Corporation,  98. 
Petropolis,  338-340. 
Pichincha,  Mt.,  42. 
Pichu  Pichu,  Mt.,  101,  102,  106. 
Pilcomayo  R.,  268. 
Pillar,  Cape,  195. 
Piranhas,  357. 
Pirauhy,  344. 
Piriapolis,  284. 


396 


INDEX 


Pisac,  122. 

Pisagua,  156,  157. 

Piura,  44,  47. 

Pizarro,    Francisco,    44,    45,    62; 

Gonzalo,  129;  Hernando,  62. 
Ponta  Grossa,  291. 
Poopo  Lake,  124,  152,  155. 
Port  Antonio,  10. 
Port  au  Spain,  358. 
Port  Royal,  10. 
Port  Stanley,  192,  197. 
Porto  Alegre,  291,  292. 
Porto  Bello,  13,  21. 
Porto  Velho,  351,  352. 
Posadas,  257,  258,  267. 
Potost,  148,  151. 
Prat,  Arturo,  64 
Prescott,  44. 
Prison,  278. 
Puca  Alpa,  97. 

Puente  del  Inca,  191,  201,  206. 
Puerto  Bermudez,  98. 
Puerto  Jessup,  98., 
Puerto  Montt,  192,  193,  195. 
Puerto  Pando,  140. 
Puna,  40. 
Puno,  123,  124. 
Punta  Arenas,  192,  193, 196. 
Punta  Ballena,  283. 
Punta  de  las  Vacas,  206. 
Pygmy  City,  93. 


Quichuas,  124, 
Quito,  39,  42. 


135. 


Railroads:  Panama,  23;  Guaya- 
quil-Quito, 40-42;  Paita-Mar- 
afion,  48;  Chimbote-Recuay, 
54;  Central  Railway  of  Peru 
(Oroya),  91;  Cerroe  Pasco 
R.  R.,  95;  Southern  Railway 
of  Peru,  99,  109;  Guaqui-La 
Paz,  127;  Arica-La  Paz,  146; 


Antofagasta  -  Oniro  -  La  Paz, 
150;  Arica-Tacna,  155;  Val- 
paraiso-Santiago, 169;  Chilian 
Central  Railway,  192;  Trans- 
Andine  Railway,  198,  213; 
Buenos  Aires-Posadas-Asun- 
cion, 257;  Montevideo- Sao 
Paulo,  290;  Santos-Sao  Paulo, 
298,*  Sao  Paulo-Rio  de  Ja- 
neiro, 3 05  5  Madeira-Mamore", 
351. 

Recife,  343. 

Recuay,  56,  97  . 

Reloncavi  Gulf,  195. 

Rimac  R.,  Valley,  46,  91,  92,  99. 

Rio  Blanco,  200. 

Rio  de  Janeiro,  290,  295,  305,  306- 
340. 

Rio  de  Janeiro  Harbor,  306-308, 
309-311. 

Rio  Grande  do  Nbrte,  344. 

Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  290,  291,  292. 

Riobamba,  40,  351. 

Root,  Secretary,  71,  72,  78. 

Rosario,  264. 

Rubber,  349,  350. 

Rufino,  215. 

Rugs,  123. 

Sacsahuaman,  114,  116,  119,  120. 

Sajama,  Mt.,  41,  150. 

Salaverry,  46,  50. 

Samanco,  58. 

San  Bias  Indians,  22. 

San  Ckristobal,  see  Cerro. 

San  Ignacio  Mini,  261. 

San  Juan,  9. 

San  Lorenzo  Fort,  22. 

San  Luis,  214,  344. 

San  Martin,  General,  Jose"  de,  63, 

64,  207,  219,  228. 
San  Ram6n,  98. 
San  Salvador,  8. 


INDEX 


397 


Sand  Dunes,  101. 

Santa  R.,  54. 

Santa  Ana,  261. 

Santa  Catharina,  292. 

Santa  Fe*,  265,  266. 

Santa  Lucia,  170,  179. 

Santa  Rosa,  214. 

Santa  Rosa  de  los  Andes,  199. 

Santiago,  170-190,  198. 

Santiago  de  Cuba,  9. 

Santos,  286,  287,  289,  290,  295- 
298. 

Sao  Paula,  295-305;  City,  300-304, 
343. 

Sao  Salvador,  354. 

Sao  Vicente,  287,  297. 

Sapyranga,  292. 

Saracocha  Lake,  199. 

Sarmiento,  Dr.,  220. 

Sergipe,  343. 

Serra  do  Mar,  298,  339. 

Sheppard,  T.  Clive,  129, 

Sicuani,  111. 

Smelters,  96,  97. 

Smyth  Channel,  192. 

Sorata,  144-146. 

Soroche,  90,  106. 

South  American  Trade,  360-382. 

Southern  R.  R.  of  Peru,  99-110.     • 

Spanish  Language,  3. 

Steamship  Lines :  To  Panama,  from 
New  York,  6,  7;  from  New 
Orleans,  8;  from  San  Francis- 
co, 11;  from  Europe,  11;  Pan- 
ama to  Guayaquil,  Callao,  Val- 
paraiso, 36,  50;  Callao  to  Val- 
paraiso, Montevideo,  and  Eu- 
rope, 99,  191,  192;  Parana 
River,  257,  258,  263,  264; 
Buenos  Aires  to  Montevideo, 
264;  Buenos  Aires  or  Monte- 
video to  Rio  de  Janeiro  and 
New  York,  289,  290,  341;  Rio 
de  Janeiro  to  Europe,  341. 


Stevens,  John  F.,  15,  25. 
Sucre,  149. 
Sugar  Estates,  50,  51. 
Supe,  51,  88. 


Tabernilla,  25. 

Tacna,  65,  155. 

Talca,  192. 

Talcahuano,  194. 

Taltal,  156. 

Tamarugal,  157. 

Tambo  Valley,  101. 

Tarapaca,  64,  65,  157. 

Tarma,  97,  98. 

Tax  on  Samples,  368-371. 

{Theatres:  Panama,  30;  Lima,  74; 

La  Paz,  139;   Santiago,    184; 

Buenos  Aires,  248,  249 ;  Santa 

F€,  266;  Montevideo,  275,  276; 

Sao     Paulo,     301;     Rio     de 

Janeiro,     323;      Para,     347; 

Manaos,  349. 
Therezopolis,  340. 
Tiahuanaco,  127,  142,  143. 
Ticlio,  94. 

Tierra  del  Fuego,  197. 
Tigre  R.,  254. 
Tijuca,  Mi,  337,  338. 
Tingo,  102. 
Tiripata,  110,  111. 
Titicaca  Lake,  124-127,  155. 
Toro  Pt.,  22. 
Trans.  Andine  R.  R.,  198-208,  213- 

217. 

Trinidad,  358. 
Trujillo,  44,  50,  51. 
Tucuman,  219. 
Tulumayu  R.,  119. 
Tumbes,  44,  46. 
Tupac  Amaru,  118,  130. 
Tupiza,  152. 
Tupungato,  Mt.,  201,  202. 


398 


JNBEX 


Ucayali  R.,  97,- 122,  349. 

Uhle,  Dr.  Max,  89. 

Urcos,.  Jll. 

tlniao,  290. 

Urubamba,   121. 

Uruguay,  279-285,  3<80;  R.,  220. 

Uspallata,  206. 

Uyuni,  152. 


Valdivia,  194;  Pedro  de,  170,  187, 

188,  195. 

Valparaiso,  36/99,  163.-168,  192. 
"tfalverde,  Father,  45. 
Vedia,  2lfc. 
Venezuela,  2. 
Vespucci,  Amerigo,  287. 
Viacha,  128,  147,  150. 
Viceroys,  62. 

Victoria,  343;  Falls,  259. 
VieufLas,  123,  155. 
Vilcabamba  R.,  122. 
Vileamayu,  111. 
Vileanota,  111. 
Villa  Bella,  352. 
Villa  Devote,  216. 
Villa  Encarnaei6n,  263. 
Villa  Mercedes,  214. 


Villa  Murtinho,  352. 

Villa, Velha,  294. 

Villaz&n,  Eliodoro,  President,  132. 

Vifia1  del'Mar,  168,  171. 

Virgenes,  Cape,  195,  197. 

Vitcos,  122. 

Vitor,  102. 

Wallace,  J.  F./14,  15. 
Waterfalls:  Iguassti,  257,  258;  £,a 
'  ^  Guayra,  ,    260 ;      Uberaponga, 
26d;   Herval,  292;   Paulo  Af- 
'fonso,  357.  • 
Watling's  Isl.,  8. 
Western  Tourists,  11. 
White  Range,  56. 
Whymper,  Edward,  41. 
Windward  Channel,  8. 

Yankee  Peril,  361. 

Yellow  Fever,  39. 

Yerba  Mate,  270,  271,  294. 

Yucay,.122. 

Yungas,  140. 

Yungay,  56,  57. 

Yura,  108,  109. 

Zurbriggen,  201.