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THE SOUTH POLE
KdAI.Ii AMlMiSIA IN I'dLAK KIT,
Frontis/iicr(, Vol. II.
THE SOUTH POLE
AN ACCOUNT OF THE NORWEGIAN
ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION IN THE "PRAM,"
1910-1912
BY ROALD AMUNDSEN
TRANSLATED FROM THE NORWEGIAN BY
A. G. CHATER
WITH MAPS AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS
IN TWO VOLUMES
VOL. II
LONDON: JOHN MURRAY
NEW^ YORK: LEE KEEDICK, 150 NASSAU STREET
1913
Copyright, 1913, by
LEE KEEDICK
THE TROW PRESS
NEW YORK
CONTENTS OF VOL. II
CHAPTER
X. THE START FOR THE POLE -
XI. THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
XII. AT THE POLE
XIII. THE RETURN TO PRAMHEIM
XIV. NORTHWARD
APPENDIX I. : THE ' ' FRAM ' '
By Commodore Christian Blom
PAGE
1
41
107
135
176
XV. THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY - - - - 204
By Lieutenant K. Prestrud
XVI. THE VOYAGE OF THE ' ' PRAM " - - - - 280
By First-Lieutenant Thorvald Nilsen
I. FROM NORWAY TO THE BARRIER - - - 280
II. OFF THE BARRIER ----- 290
III. FROM THE BAY OP WHALES TO BUENOS AIRES - 294
IV. THE OCEANOGRAPHICAL CRUISE - - - 316
V. AT BUENOS AIRES ----- 328
VI. FROM BUENOS AIRES TO THE ROSS BARRIER - 331
VII. FROM THE BARRIER TO BUENOS AIRES, VIA HOBART 350
356
APPENDIX II. : REMARKS ON THE METEOROLOGICAL OBSER-
VATIONS AT FRAMHEIM . - - - 372
By B. J. Birkeland
V
vi CONTENTS OF VOL. II
PAGE
APPENDIX III, : GEOLOGY ------ 395
By J. Schetelig
APPENDIX IV, : THE ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS AT THE POLE 399
By A, Alexander, with Note by Professor H. Geelmuyden
APPENDIX V, : OCEANOGRAPHY ----- 404
By Professors Bjorn Helland-Hansen and Fridtjof Nansen
INDEX -.----.- 439
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II
TO FACE PAGE
ROALD AMUNDSEN IN POLAR KIT - - Frontispiece
A SNOW BEACON ON THE BARRIER SURFACE - - - 4
Reproduced by permission of the Illustrated London News
CREVASSED SURFACE ON THE BARRIER - - - - 10
DEPOT IN 83° S. - - - - - - - 28
DEPOT IN 82° S. - - - - - - - 28
AT THE DEPOT IN LAT. 84° S. - - - - - 32
ReprodiLced by permission of the Illustrated London News
THE DEPOT AND MOUNTAINS IN LAT. 85° S. - - - 34
ASCENDING MOUNT BETTY - - - - - 38
MOUNT FRIDTJOF NANSEN, 15,000 FEET ABOVE THE SEA - 50
AT THE END OF A DAY 's MARCH : THE POLE EXPEDITION - 70
THE TENT AFTER A BLIZZARD - - - - - 70
A LARGE FILLED CREVASSE ON THE DEVIL 'S GLACIER - - 84
hell's gate on THE DEVIL 's GLACIER - - - 86
Reproduced by permission of the Illustrated London News
mount THORVALD NILSEN - - - - - 90
Reproduced by permission of the Illustrated London News
THE SLEDGES PACKED FOR THE FINAL MARCH - - 106
TAKING AN OBSERVATION AT THE POLE - - - 112
Reproduced by permission of the Illustrated London News
AT THE SOUTH POLE: OSCAR W^ISTING AND HIS TEAM ARRIVE
AT THE GOAL _-_--- 120
Reprodu<:ed by permission of the Illustrated London News
vii
viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II
TO FACE PAGE
A PAGE PROM THE OBSERVATION BOOK, DECEMBER 17, 1911 - 130
AT THE SOUTH POLE, DECEMBER 16 AND 17, 1911 - - 134
MOUNT DON PEDRO CHRISTOPHERSEN - - - - 156
Reproduced by permission of the Illustrated London News
FRAMHEIM ON THE RETURN OF THE POLAR PARTY - - 174
LINDSTROM IN THE KITCHEN ----- 174
FAREWELL TO THE BARRIER - - . - - - 178
BJAALAND AS TINKER ------ 180
DOGS LANDED AT HOBART FOR DR. MAWSON's EXPEDITION - 180
MEMBERS OF THE JAPANESE ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION - - 184
LIEUTENANT PRESTRUD ------ 204
AN ORIGINAL INHABITANT OF THE ANTARCTIC - - 212
STUBBERUD REVIEWS THE SITUATION - - - - 214
CAMP ON THE BARRIER : EASTERN EXPEDITION - - 223
A BROKEN-OFF CAPE -.-..- 223
OFF TO THE EAST .----- 226
THE JUNCTION OF THE GREAT BARRIER AND KING EDWARD LAND 232
Reproduced by permission of the Illustrated London News
IMPROVISED SOUNDING TACKLE ----- 234
THE LEADER OF THE EASTERN EXPEDITION, PRESTRUD, ON
SCOTT 'S NUNATAK ------ 248
FIRST IN KING EDWARD LAND ----- 254
IN KING EDWARD LAND : AFTER A THREE DAYS ' STORM - 254
ON SCOTT 'S NUNATAK ------ 258
SCOTT 'S NUNATAK - - - - - - - 258
THE " FRAM " AT THE ICE-EDGE, JANUARY, 1912 - - 268
THE " KAINAN MARU " - - - - - 272
SEALS ON SEA-ICE NEAR THE BARRIER - - - 274
SEALS: MOTHER AND CALF - - o . - 274
A GROUP OF ADELIE PENGUINS ----- 278
A QUIET PIPE ------- 278
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II ix
TO PACE PAGE
FIRST-LIEUTENANT THORVALD NILSEN, NORWEGIAN NAVY - 280
THE SECOND IN COMMAND TAKES A NAP - . . 284
THE " FRAM " SIGHTED ..... 284
ON THE ICE-EDGE, JANUARY, 1911 . - - . 292
OUR LAST MOORINGS ON THE ICE-FOOT - - - 294
A HUNTING EXPEDITION AT THE FOOT OF THE BARRIER - 294
BECK STEERS THE " FRAM " THROUGH UNKNOWN WATERS - 304
OUR COOK, CHEERFUL AND CONTENTED AS USUAL - - 304
SECTIONAL DIAGRAMS OF THE *' FRAM " - At end of Appendix I
LIST OF MAPS AND CHARTS
FIG. PAOB
CHART OF THE IMMEDIATE SURROUNDINGS OF THE SOUTH
POLE ------ To face 120
CHART OF THE ROSS SEA - - - - " 344
CHART OF THE BAY OF WHALES - - - " 350
1. HYPOTHETICAL REPRESENTATION OF THE SURFACE CURRENTS
IN THE NORTHERN ATLANTIC IN APRIL - - 409
2. THE " FRAM'S " ROUTE FROM JUNE 20 TO JULY 7, 1910 - 411
3. TEMPERATURE AND SALINITY IN THE ' ' FRAM 's ' ' SOUTHERN
SECTION, JUNE, 1910 .... - 412
4. TEMPERATURE AND SALINITY IN THE ' ' FRAM 'S ' ' NORTHERN
SECTION, JULY, 1910 .... - 415
5. THE " FRAm's " STATIONS IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC ( JUNE-
AUGUST, 1911) 418
6. CURRENTS IN THE SOUTH ATLANTIC ( JUNE-AUGUST, 1911) 419
7. SALINITIES AND TEMPERATURES AT THE SURFACE IN THE
SOUTH ATLANTIC ( JUNE-AUGUST, 1911) - - 420
X LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II
PIG. PAOZ
8. TEMPERATURES ( CENTIGRADE) AT A DEPTH OF 400 METRES
(218 FATHOMS) 423
9. TEMPERATURES AT STATION 32 (iN THE BENGUELA CURRENT,
JULY 22, 1911), AND AT STATION 60 (iN THE BRAZIL
CURRENT, AUGUST 19, 1911) - - - - 426
10. SALINITIES AT STATION 32 (iN THE BENGUELA CURRENT,
JULY 22, 1911), AND AT STATION 60 (iN THE BRAZIL
CURRENT, AUGUST 19, 1911) - - - - 427
11. SALINITIES AND TEMPERATURES IN THE SOUTHERN SECTION
(JUNE-JULY, 1911) 429
12. SALINITIES AND TEMPERATURES IN THE NORTHERN SECTION
( JULY-AUGUST, 1911) . - . . 429
13. TEMPERATURES AT ONE OF THE " FRAM 'S " AND ONE OF
THE " challenger's " STATIONS, TO THE SOUTH OF
THE SOUTH EQUATORIAL CURRENT - - - 433
14. TEMPERATURES AT ONE OF THE * ' FRAM 'S ' ' AND ONE OF THE
* ' VALDIVIA 'S ' ' STATIONS, IN THE BENGUELA CURRENT 435
15. TEMPERATURES AT THE *' PLANET 'S " STATION 25, AND
THE '' FRAM'S " STATION 39 — BOTH IN THE NEIGH-
BOURHOOD OF ST. HELENA _ - - - 437
16. SALINITIES AT THE " PLANET 's " STATION 25 (MARCH 19,
1906), AND THE " FRAM'S " STATION 39 (jULY 29,
1911) 437
CHART OF THE ANTARCTIC REGION - ' At end of Volume
THE SOUTH POLE
CHAPTER X
THE START FOR THE POLE
At last we got away, on October 19. The weather for
the past few days had not been altogether reliable ; now
windy, now calm — now snowing, now clear: regular
spring weather, in other words. That day it continued
unsettled ; it was misty and thick in the morning, and did
not promise well for the day, but by 9.30 there was a light
breeze from the east, and at the same time it cleared.
There was no need for a prolonged inquiry into the
sentiments of the party. " What do you think? Shall
we start?" — "Yes, of course. Let's be jogging on."
There was only one opinion about it. Our coursers
were harnessed in a jiffy, and with a little nod — as much
as to say, " See you to-morrow " — we were off. I don't
believe Lindstrom even came out of doors to see us
start. " Such an everyday affair: what's the use of
making a fuss about it?"
There were five of us — Hanssen, Wisting, Hassel,
Bjaaland, and myself. We had four sledges, with
VOL. II. 26
2 THE START FOR THE POLE
thirteen dogs to each. At the start our sledges were
very light, as we were only taking supplies for the trip
to 80° S., where all our cases were waiting for us; we
could therefore sit on the sledges and flourish our whips
with a jaunty air. I sat astride on Wisting's sledge,
and anyone who had seen us would no doubt have
thought a Polar journey looked very inviting.
Down on the sea-ice stood Prestrud \^dth the
cinematograph, turning the crank as fast as he could
go as we went past. When we came up on to the
Barrier on the other side, he was there again, turning
incessantly. The last thing I saw, as we went over the
top of the ridge and everything familiar disappeared,
was a cinematograph; it was coming inland at full
speed. I had been engaged in looking out ahead, and
turned round suddenly to throw a last glance in the
direction of the spot that to us stood for all that was
beautiful on earth, when I caught sight of — what do you
think? A cinematograph. " He can't be taking any-
thing but air now, can he?" — " Hardly that." The
cinematograph vanished below the horizon.
The going was excellent, but the atmosphere became
thicker as we went inland. For the first twelve miles
from the edge of the Barrier I had been sitting with
Hassel, but, seeing that Wisting's dogs could manage two
on the sledge better than the others, I moved. Hanssen
drove first; he had to steer by compass alone, as the
weather had got thicker. After him came Bjaaland, then
CAMPING ARRANGEMENTS 3
Hassel, and, finally, Wistingand I. Wehad just gone up
a little slope, when we saw that it dropped rather steeply
on the other side; the descent could not be more than
20 yards long. I sat with my back to the dogs, looking
aft, and was enjoying the brisk drive. Then suddenly
the surface by the side of the sledge dropped perpen-
dicularly, and showed a yawning black abyss, large
enough to have swallowed us all, and a little more. A
few inches more to one side, and we should have taken
no part in the Polar journey. We guessed from this
broken surface that we had come too far to the east,
and altered our course more westerly. When we had
reached safer ground, I took the opportunity of putting
on my ski and driving so; in this way the weight was
more distributed. Before very long it cleared a little,
and we saw one of our mark-flags straight ahead. We
went up to it; many memories clung to the spot — cold
and slaughter of dogs. It was there we had killed the
three puppies on the last trip.
We had then covered seventeen miles, and we camped,
well pleased with the first day of our long journey. My
belief that, with all in one tent, we should manage our
camping and preparations much better than before was
fully justified. The tent went up as though it arose out
of the ground, and everything was done as though we
had had long practice. We found we had ample room
in the tent, and our arrangements worked splendidly the
whole time. They were as follows: as soon as we
4 THE START FOR THE POLE
halted, all took a hand at the tent. The pegs in the
valance of the tent were driven in, and Wisting crept
inside and planted the pole, while the rest of us stretched
the guy-ropes. When this was done, I went in, and all
the things that were to go inside were handed in to me —
sleeping-bags, kit-bags, cookers, provisions. Everything
was put in its place, the Primus lighted, and the cooker
filled with snow. Meanwhile the others fed their dogs
and let them loose. Instead of the "guard," we shovelled
loose snow round the tent; this proved to be sufficient
protection — the dogs respected it. The bindings were
taken off all our ski, and either stowed with other loose
articles in a provision-case, or hung up together with the
harness on the top of the ski, which were lashed ujiright
to the front of the sledge. The tent proved excellent
in every way; the dark colour subdued the light, and
made it agreeable.
Neptune, a fine dog, was let loose when we had come
six miles over the plain ; he was so fat that he could not
keep up. We felt certain that he would follow us, but
he did not appear. We then supposed that he had
turned back and made for the flesh-pots, but, strangely
enough, he did not do that either. He never arrived at
the station; it is quite a mystery what became of him.
Rotta, another fine animal, was also set free; she was
not fit for the journey, and she afterwards arrived at
home. Ulrik began by having a ride on the sledge; he
picked up later. Bjorn went limj)ing after the sledge.
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A BLIZZARD 5
Peary was incapacitated; he was let loose and followed
for a time, but then disappeared. When the eastern party
afterwards visited the depot in 80° S., they found him
there in good condition. He was shy at first, but by
degrees let them come near him and put the harness on.
He did very good service after that. Uranus and Fuchs
were out of condition. This was pretty bad for the first
day, but the others were all worth their weight in gold.
During the night it blew a gale from the east, but it
moderated in the morning, so that we got away at
10 a.m. The weather did not hold for long; the wind
came again with renewed force from the same quarter,
with thick driving snow. However, we went along
well, and passed flag after flag. After going nineteen
and a quarter miles, we came to a snow beacon that had
been erected at the beginning of April, and had stood
for seven months; it was still quite good and solid.
This gave us a good deal to think about: so we could
depend upon these beacons; they would not fall down.
From the experience thus gained, we afterwards erected
the whole of our extensive system of beacons on the way
south. The wind went to the south-east during the
day; it blew, but luckily it had stopped snowing. The
temperature was - 11*5° F., and bitter enough against
the wind. When we stopped in the evening and set our
tent, we had just found our tracks from the last trip;
they were sharp and clear, though six weeks old. We
were glad to find them, as we had seen no flag for some
6 THE START FOR THE POLE
time, and were beginning to get near the ugly trap,
forty-six and a half miles from the house, that had been
found on the last depot journey, so we had to be careful.
The next day, the 21st, brought very thick weather:
a strong breeze from the south-east, with thick driving
snow. It would not have been a day for crossing the
trap if we had not found our old tracks. It was true
that we could not see them far, but we could still see the
direction they took. So as to be quite safe, I now set
our course north-east by east — two points east was the
original course. And compared with our old tracks,
this looked right, as the new course was considerably
more easterly than the direction of the tracks. One last
glance over the camping-ground to see whether anything
was forgotten, and then into the blizzard. It was really
vile weather, snowing from above and drifting from
below, so that one was quite blinded. We could not
see far; very often we on the last sledge had difficulty
in seeing the first. Bjaaland was next in front of us.
For a long time we had been going markedly downhill,
and this was not in accordance with our reckoning; but
in that weather one could not make much of a reckon-
ing. We had several times passed over crevasses, but
none of any size. Suddenly we saw Bjaaland's sledge
sink over. He jumped off and seized the trace. The
sledge lay on its side for a few seconds, then began to
sink more and more, and finally disappeared altogether.
Bjaaland had got a good purchase in the snow, and the
IN A CREVASSE 7
dogs lay down and dug their claws in. The sledge sank
more and more — all this happened in a few moments.
" Now I can't hold it any longer." We — Wisting and
I — had just come up. He was holding on convulsively,
and resisting with all his force, but it was no use —
inch by inch the sledge sank deeper. The dogs, too,
seemed to understand the gravity of the situation;
stretched out in the snow, they dug their claws in, and
resisted with all their strength. But still, inch by inch,
slowly and surely, it went down into the abyss. Bjaaland
was right enough when he said he couldn't hold on any
longer. A few seconds more, and his sledge and thirteen
dogs would never have seen the light of day again.
Help came at the last moment. Hanssen and Hassel,
who were a little in advance when it happened, had
snatched an Alpine rope from a sledge and came to his
assistance. They made the rope fast to the trace, and
two of us — Bjaaland and I — were now able, by getting
a good purchase, to hold the sledge suspended. First
the dogs were taken out; then Hassel's sledge was
drawn back and placed across the narrowest part of the
crevasse, where we could see that the edges were solid.
Then by our combined efforts the sledge, which was
dangling far below, was hoisted up as far as we could
get it, and made fast to Hassel's sledge by the dogs'
traces. Now we could slack off and let go: one sledge
hung securely enough by the other. We could breathe
a little more freely.
8 THE START FOR THE POLE
The next thing to be done was to get the sledge
right up, and before we could manage that it had to be
unloaded. A man would have to go down on the rope,
cast off the lashings of the cases, and attach them again
for drawing up. They all wanted this job, but Wisting
had it; he fastened the Alpine rope round his body
and went dow^n. Bjaaland and I took up our former
positions, and acted as anchors; meanwhile Wisting
reported what he saw down below. The case with the
cooker was hanging by its last thread; it was secured,
and again saw the light of day. Hassel and Hanssen
attended to the hauling up of the cases, as Wisting had
them ready. These two fellows moved about on the
brink of the chasm with a coolness that I regarded at
first with approving eyes. I admire courage and con-
tempt for danger. But the length to which they carried
it at last was too much of a good thing; they were
simply playing hide-and-seek with Fate. Wisting's in-
formation from below — that the cornice thev were
standing on was only a few inches thick — did not seem
to have the slightest effect on them; on the contrary,
they seemed to stand all the more securely.
" We've been luckj^" said Wisting; *' this is the only
place where the crevasse is narrow enough to put a
sledge across. If we had gone a little more to the
left " — Hanssen looked eagerly in that direction —
'* none of us would have escaped. There is no surface
there; only a crust as thin as paper. It doesn't look
IN THE TRAP 9
very inviting down below, either; immense spikes of ice
sticking up everywhere, which would spit you before
you got very far down."
This description was not attractive; it was well we
had found " such a good place." Meanwhile Wisting
had finished his work, and was hauled up. When asked
whether he was not glad to be on the surface again, he
answered with a smile that " it was nice and warm
down there." We then hauled the sledge up, and for
the time being all was well. " But," said Hassel, " we
must be careful going along here, because I was just
on the point of going in when Hanssen and I were
bringing up the sledge." He smiled as though at a
happy memory. Hassel had seen that it was best to
be careful. There was no need to look for crevasses;
there was literally nothing else to be seen.
There could be no question of going farther into the
trap, for we had long ago come to the conclusion that,
in spite of our precautions, we had arrived at this ugly
place. We should have to look about for a place for
the tent, but that was easier said than done. There
was no possibility of finding a place large enough for
both the tent and the guy-ropes; the tent was set up
on a small, apparently solid spot, and the guys stretched
across crevasses in all directions. We were beginning
to be quite familiar with the place. That crevasse ran
there and there, and it had a side-fissure that went so
and so — just like schoolboys learning a lesson.
VOL. II. 27
10 THE START FOR THE POLE
Meanwhile we had brought all our things as far as
possible into a place of safety; the dogs lay harnessed
to reduce the risk of losing them. Wisting was just
going over to his sledge — he had gone the same way
several times before — when suddenly I saw nothing but
his head, shoulders and arms above the snow. He had
fallen through, but saved himself by stretching his arms
out as he fell. The crevasse was bottomless, like the
rest. We went into the tent and cooked lobscouse.
Leaving the weather to take care of itself, we made
ourselves as comfortable as we could. It was then one
o'clock in the afternoon. The wind had fallen con-
siderably since we came in, and before we knew what
was happening, it was perfectly calm. It began to
brighten a little about three, and we went out to look
at it.
The weather was evidently improving, and on the
northern horizon there was a sign of blue sky. On the
south it was thick. Far off, in the densest part of the
mist, we could vaguely see the outline of a dome-like
elevation, and Wisting and Hanssen went off to ex-
amine it. The dome turned out to be one of the small
haycock formations that we had seen before in this
district. They struck at it with their poles, and — just
as they expected — it was hollow, and revealed the
darkest abyss. Hanssen was positively chuckling with
delight when he told us about it; Hassel sent him an
envious glance.
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HANSSEN'S REGRETS 11
By 4 p.m. it cleared, and a small reconnoitring party,
composed of three, started to find a way out of this. I
was one of the three, so we had a long Alpine rope
between us; I don't like tumbling in, if I can avoid it
by such simple means. We set out to the east — ^the
direction that had brought us out of the same broken
ground before — and we had not gone more than a few
paces when we were quite out of it. It was now clear
enough to look about us. Our tent stood at the north-
eastern corner of a tract that was full of hummocks;
we could decide beyond a doubt that this was the
dreaded trap. We continued a little way to the east
until we saw our course clearly, and then returned to
camp. We did not waste much time in getting things
ready and leaving the place. It was a genuine relief
to find ourselves once more on good ground, and we
resumed our journey southward at a brisk pace.
That we were not quite out of the dangerous zone
was shown by a number of small hummocks to the
south of us. They extended across our course at right
angles. We could also see from some long but narrow
crevasses we crossed that we must keep a good look-
out. When we came into the vicinity of the line of
hummocks that lay in our course, we stopped and dis-
cussed our prospects. " We shall save a lot of time by
going straight on through here instead of going round,"
said Hanssen. I had to admit this; but, on the other
hand, the risk was much greater. " Oh, let's try it," he
12 THE START FOR THE POLE
went on; "if we can't do it, we can't." I was weak,
and allowed myself to be persuaded, and away we went
among the haycocks. I could see how Hanssen was
enjoying himself; this was just what he wanted. We
went faster and faster. Curiously enough, we passed
several of these formations without noticing anything,
and began to hope that we should get through. Then
suddenly Hanssen's three leading dogs disappeared, and
the others stopped abruptly. He got them hauled up
without much trouble and came over. We others, who
were following, crossed without accident, but our further
progress seemed doubtful, for after a few more paces
the same three dogs fell in again. We were now in
exactly the same kind of place as before; crevasses ran
in every direction, like a broken pane of glass. I had
had enough, and would take no more part in this death-
ride. I announced decisively that we must turn back,
follow our tracks, and go round it all. Hansen looked
quite disappointed. " Well," he said, " but we shall be
over it directly." "I dare say we shall," I replied;
" but we must go back first." This was evidently hard
on him; there was one formation in particular that
attracted him, and he wanted to try his strength with
it. It was a pressure-mass that, as far as appearance
went, might just as well have been formed out in the
drift-ice. It looked as if it was formed of four huge
lumps of ice raised on end against each other. We
knew what it contained without examination — a yawn-
BACK ON THE LINE 13
ing chasm. Hanssen cast a last regretful glance upon
it, and then turned back.
We could now see all our surroundings clearly. This
place lay, as we had remarked before, in a hollow; we
followed it round, and came up the rise on the south
without accident. Here we caught sight of one of our
flags ; it stood to the east of us, and thus confirmed our
suspicion that we had been going too far to the west.
We had one more contact with the broken ground,
having to cross some crevasses and pass a big hole; but
then it was done, and we could once more rejoice in
having solid ice beneath us. Hanssen, however, was
not satisfied till he had been to look into the hole. In
the evening we reached the two snow-huts we had built
on the last trip, and we camped there, twenty-six miles
from the depot. The huts were drifted up with snow,
so we left them in peace, and as the weather was now
so mild and fine, we preferred the tent.
It had been an eventful day, and we had reason to
be satisfied that we had come off so easily. The going
had been good, and it had all gone like a game. When
we started the next morning it was overcast and thick,
and before we had gone very far we were in the midst
of a south-wester, with snow so thick that we could
hardly see ten sledge-lengths ahead of us. We had
intended to reach the depot that day, but if this con-
tinued, it was more than doubtful whether we should
find it. Meanwhile we put on the pace. It was a long
14 THE START FOR THE POLE
way on, so there was no danger of driving past it.
During this while it had remained clear in the zenith,
and we had been hoping that the wind and snow would
cease; but we had no such luck — it increased rather
than dropped. Our best sledge-meter — one we knew
we could depend on — was on Wisting's sledge ; therefore
he had to check the distance. At 1.30 p.m. he turned
round to me, and pointed out that we had gone the exact
distance; I called out to Hanssen to use his eyes well.
Then, at that very moment, the depot showed up a few
sledge-lengths to the left of us, looking like a regular
palace of snow in the thick air. This was a good test
both for the sledge-meter and the compass. We drove
up to it and halted. There were three important points
to be picked up on our way south, and one of them was
found ; we were all glad and in good spirits.
The ninety-nine miles from Framheim to this point
had been covered in four marches, and we could now
rest our dogs, and give them as much seal's flesh as they
were capable of eating. Thus far the trip had been a
good one for the animals; with one exception, they were
all in the best condition. This exception was Uranus.
We had never been able to get any fat on his bones ; he
remained thin and scraggy, and awaited his death at the
depot, a little later, in 82° S. If Uranus was lanky to
look at, the same could not be said of Jaala, poor beast!
In spite of her condition, she struggled to keep up ; she
did her utmost, but unless her dimensions were reduced
AT THE DEPOT 15
before we left 82° S., she would have to accompany
Uranus to another world.
The cases of provisions and outfit that we had left
here on the last trip were almost entirely snowed under,
but it did not take long to dig them out. The first
thing to be done was to cut up the seals for the dogs.
These grand pieces of meat, with the blubber attached,
did not have to be thrown at the dogs; they just helped
themselves as long as there was any meat cut up, and
when that was finished, they did not hesitate to attack
the " joint." It was a pleasure to see them, as they lay
all over the place, enjoying their food; it was all so
deUghtfully calm and peaceful, to begin with. They
were all hungry, and thought of nothing but satisfying
their immediate cravings ; but when this was done there
was an end of the truce. Although Hai had only half
finished his share, he must needs go up to Rap and take
away the piece he was eating. Of course, this could
not happen without a great row, which resulted in the
appearance of Hanssen ; then Hai made himself scarce.
He was a fine dog, but fearfully obstinate; if he had
once taken a thing into his head, it was not easy to
make him give it up. On one of our depot journeys it
happened that I was feeding Hanssen's dogs. Hai had
made short work of his pemmican, and looked round for
more. Ah! there was Rap enjoying his — that would
just do for him. In a flash Hai was upon him, forced
him to give up his dinner, and was about to convert it
16 THE START FOR THE POLE
to his own use. Meanwhile I had witnessed the whole
scene, and before Hai knew anything about it, I was
upon him in turn. I hit him over the nose with the
whip-handle, and tried to take the pemmican from him,
but it was not so easy. Neither of us would give in,
and soon we were both rolling over and over in the
snow struggling for the mastery. I came off victorious
after a pretty hot fight, and Rap got his dinner again.
Any other dog would have dropped it at once on being
hit over the nose, but not Hai.
It was a treat to get into the tent; the day had been
a bitter one. During the night the wind went round
to the north, and all the snow that had been blown
northward by the wind of the previous day had nothing
to do but to come back again; the road was free. And
it made the utmost use of its opportunity; nothing
could be seen for driving snow when we turned out
next morning. We could only stay where we were,
and console ourselves with the thought that it made no
difference, as it had been decided that we were to remain
here two days. But staying in a tent all day is never
very amusing, especially when one is compelled to keep
to one's sleeping-bag the whole time. You soon get
tired of talking, and you can't write all day long, either.
Eating is a good way of passing the time, if you can
afford it, and so is reading, if you have anything to
read; but as the menu is limited, and the library as
a rule somewhat deficient on a sledging trip, these two
THE SLEDGE-LOADS 17
expedients fall to the ground. There is, however, one
form of entertainment that may be indulged in under
these circumstances without scruple, and that is a good
nap. Happy the man who can sleep the clock round
on days like these; but that is a gift that is not vouch-
safed to all, and those who have it will not own up to
it. I have heard men snore till I was really afraid they
would choke, but as for acknowledging that they had
been asleep — never! Some of them even have the
coolness to assert that they suffer from sleeplessness, but
it was not so bad as that with any of us.
In the course of the day the wind dropped, and we
went out to do some work. We transferred the old
depot to the new one. We now had here three com-
plete sledge-loads, for which there would be little use,
and which, therefore, were left behind. The eastern
party availed themselves of part of these supplies on
their journey, but not much. This depot is a fairly
large one, and might come in useful if anyone should
think of exploring the region from King Edward Land
southward. As things were, we had no need of it. At
the same time the sledges were packed, and when evening
came everything was ready for our departure. There had
really been no hurry about this, as we were going to stay
here on the following day as well; but one soon learns
in these regions that it is best to take advantage of good
weather when you have it — you never know how long
it will last. There was, however, nothing to be said
18 THE START FOR THE POLE
about the day that followed; we could doze and doze as
much as we liked. The work went on regularly, never-
theless. The dogs gnawed and gnawed, storing up
strength with every hour that went by.
We will now take a trip out to our loaded sledges,
and see what they contain. Hanssen's stands first, bow
to the south; behind it come Wisting's, Bjaaland's and
Hassel's. They all look pretty much alike, and as
regards provisions their loads are precisely similar.
Case No. 1 contains about 5,300 biscuits, and weighs
111 pounds.
Case No. 2: 112 rations of dogs' pemmican; 11 bags
of dried milk, chocolate, and biscuits. Total gross
weight, 177 pounds.
Case No. 3: 124 rations of dogs' pemmican; 10 bags
of dried milk and biscuits. Gross weight, 161 pounds.
Case No. 4 : 39 rations of dogs' pemmican ; 86 rations
of men's pemmican; 9 bags of dried milk and biscuits.
Gross weight, 165 pounds.
Case No. 5 : 96 rations of dogs' pemmican. Weight,
122 pounds.
Total net weight of provisions per sledge, 668
pounds.
With the outfit and the weight of the sledge itself,
the total came to pretty nearly 880 pounds.
Hanssen's sledge differed from tlie others, in that it
had aluminium fittings instead of steel and no sledge-
meter, as it had to be free from iron on account of the
EQUIPMENT 19
steering-compass he carried. Each of the other three
sledges had a sledge-meter and compass. We were
thus equipped with three sledge-meters and four com-
passes. The instruments we carried were two sextants
and three artificial horizons — two glass and one mercury
— a hypsometer for measuring heights, and one aneroid.
For meteorological observations, four thermometers.
Also two pairs of binoculars. We took a little travel-
ling case of medicines from Burroughs Wellcome and
Co. Our surgical instruments were not many : a dental
forceps and — a beard-clipper. Our sewing outfit was
extensive. We carried a small, very light tent in
reserve; it would have to be used if any of us were
obliged to turn back. We also carried two Primus
lamps. Of paraffin we had a good supply: twenty-two
and a half gallons divided among three sledges. We
kept it in the usual cans, but they proved too weak;
not that we lost any paraffin, but Bjaaland had to be
constantly soldering to keep them tight. We had
a good soldering outfit. Every man carried his own
personal bag, in which he kept reserve clothing, diaries
and observation books. We took a quantity of loose
straps for spare ski-bindings. We had double sleeping-
bags for the first part of the time; that is to say, an
inner and an outer one. There were five watches
among us, of which three were chronometer watches.
We had decided to cover the distance between 80°
and 82° S. in daily marches of seventeen miles. We
20 THE START FOR THE POLE
could easily have done twice this, but as it was more
important to arrive than to show great speed, we
limited the distance; besides which, here between the
depots we had sufficient food to allow us to take our
time. We were interested in seeing how the dogs
would manage the loaded sledges. We expected them
to do well, but not so well as they did.
On October 25 we left 80° S. with a light north-westerly
breeze, clear and mild. I was now to take up my
position in advance of the sledges, and placed myself
a few paces in front of Hanssen's, with my ski pointing
in the right direction. A last look behind me: "All
ready?" and away I went. I thought — no; I didn't
have time to think. Before I knew anything about it,
I was sent flying by the dogs. In the confusion that
ensued they stopped, luckily, so that I escaped without
damage, as far as that went. To tell the truth, I was
angry, but as I had sense enough to see that the situation,
already sufficiently comic, would be doubly ridiculous if
I allowed my annoyance to show itself, I wisely kept
quiet. And, after all, whose fault was it? I was really
the only one to blame; why in the world had I not got
away faster? I now changed my plan entirely — there
is nothing to be ashamed of in that, I hope — and fell in
with the awkward squad; there I was more successful.
"All ready? Go!" And go they did. First Hanssen
went off like a meteor; close behind him came Wisting,
and then Bjaaland and Hassel. They all had ski on,
SKI-DRIVING 21
and were driving with a line. I had made up my mind
to follow in the rear, as I thought the dogs would not
keep this up for long, but I soon had enough of it.
We did the first six and a quarter miles in an hour.
I thought that would do for me, so I went up to
Wisting, made a rope fast to his sledge, and there
I stood till we reached 85° 5' S. — three hundred and
forty miles. Yes; that was a pleasant surprise. We
had never dreamed of anything of the sort — driving on
ski to the Pole! Thanks to Hanssen's brilliant talents
as a dog-driver, we could easily do this. He had his
dogs well in hand, and they knew their master. They
knew that the moment they failed to do their duty they
would be pulled up, and a hiding all round would
follow. Of course, as always happens, Nature occasion-
ally got the better of discipline; but the "confirma-
tion " that resulted checked any repetition of such
conduct for a long while. The day's march was soon
completed in this way, and we camped early.
On the following day we were already in sight of the
large pressure-ridges on the east, which we had seen for
the first time on the second depot journey between 81°
and 82° S., and this showed that the atmosphere must
be very clear. We could not see any greater number
than the first time, however. From our experience of
beacons built of snow, we could see that if we built such
beacons now, on our way south, they would be splendid
marks for our return journey; we therefore decided to
22 THE START FOR THE POLE
adopt this system of landmarks to the greatest possible
extent. We built in all 150 beacons, 6 feet high, and
used in their construction 9,000 blocks, cut out of the
snow with specially large snow-knives. In each of them
was deposited a paper, giving the number and position
of the beacon, and indicating the distance and the
direction to be taken to reach the next beacon to the
north. It may appear that my prudence was exag-
gerated, but it always seemed to me that one could not
be too careful on this endless, uniform surface. If we
lost our way here, it would be difficult enough to reach
home. Besides which, the building of these beacons
had other advantages, which we could all see and
appreciate. Every time we stopped to build one, the
dogs had a rest, and they wanted this, if they were to
keep up the pace.
We erected the first beacon in 80° 23' S. To begin
with, we contented ourselves with putting them up at
every thirteenth or fifteenth kilometre. On the 29th
we shot the first dog, Hanssen's Bone. He was too
old to keep up, and was only a hindrance. He was
placed in depot under a beacon, and was a great joy to
us — or rather to the dogs — later on.
On the same day we reached the second important
point — the depot in 81° S. Our course took us very
slightly to the east of it. The small pieces of packing-
case that had been used as marks on each side of the
depot could be seen a long way off. On a subsequent
HANSSEN IN A CREVASSE 23
examination they showed no sign of snowfall; they
stood just as they had been put in. In the neighbour-
hood of the depot we crossed two quite respectable
crevasses ; they were apparently filled up, and caused us
no trouble. We reached the depot at 2 p.m.; every-
thing was in the best of order. The flag was flying, and
hardly looked as if it had been up a day, although it had
now been waving there for nearly eight months. The
drifts round the depot were about li feet high.
The next day was brilliant — calm and clear. The
sun really baked the skin of one's face. We put all
our skin clothing out to dry; a little rime will always
form at the bottom of a sleeping-bag. We also availed
ourselves of this good opportunity to determine our
position and check our compasses; they proved to be
correct. We replaced the provisions we had consumed
on the way, and resumed our journey on October 31.
There was a thick fog next morning, and very dis-
agreeable weather; perhaps we felt it more after the
previous fine day. When we passed this way for the
first time going south, Hanssen's dogs had fallen into
a crevasse, but it was nothing to speak of; otherwise
we had no trouble. Nor did we expect any this time;
but in these regions what one least expects frequently
happens. The snow was loose and the going heavy;
from time to time we crossed a narrow crevasse. Once
we saw through the fog a large open hole ; we could not
have been very far from it, or we should not have seen
24 THE START FOR THE POLE
it, the weather was so tliick. But all went well till we had
come thirteen and a half miles. Then Hanssen had to
cross a crevasse a yard wide, and in doing it he was un-
lucky enough to catch the point of his ski in the traces
of the hindmost dogs, and fall right across the crevasse.
This looked unpleasant. The dogs were across, and a
foot or two on the other side, but the sledge was right
over the crevasse, and had twisted as Hanssen fell, so that
a httle more would bring it into line with the crevasse,
and then, of course, down it would go. The dogs had
quickly scented the fact that their lord and master was
for the moment incapable of administering a "confirma-
tion," and they did not let slip the golden opportunity.
Like a lot of roaring tigers, the whole team set upon each
other and fought till the hair flew. This naturally pro-
duced short, sharp jerks at the traces, so that the sledge
worked round more and more, and at the same time the
dogs, in the heat of the combat, were coming nearer
and nearer to the brink. If this went on, all was
irretrievably lost. One of us jumped the crevasse,
went into the middle of the struggling team, and,
fortunately, got them to stop. At the same time,
Wisting threw a line to Hanssen and hauled him out
of his unpleasant position — although, I thought to
myself, as we went on: I wonder whether Hanssen
did not enjoy the situation? Stretched across a giddy
abyss, with the prospect of slipping down it at any
moment — that was just what he would like. We
SNOW BEACONS 25
secured the sledge, completed our seventeen miles, and
camped.
From 81° S. we began to erect beacons at every nine
kilometres. The next day we observed the lowest
temperature of the whole of this journey: -31'1° F.
The wind was south-south-east, but not very strong.
It did not feel Hke summer, all the same. We now
adopted the habit which we kept up all the way to the
south — of taking our lunch while building the beacon
that lay half-way in our day's march. It was nothing
very luxurious — three or four dry oatmeal biscuits, that
was all. If one wanted a drink, one could mix snow
with the biscuit — " bread and water." It is a diet that
is not much sought after in our native latitudes, but
latitude makes a very great difference in this world. If
anybody had offered us more " bread and water," we
should gladly have accepted it.
That day we crossed the last crevasse for a long time
to come, and it was only a few inches wide. The sur-
face looked grand ahead of us; it went in very long,
almost imperceptible undulations. We could only
notice them by the way in which the beacons we put
up often disappeared rather rapidly.
On November 2 we had a gale from the south, with
heavy snow. The going was very stiff, but the dogs
got the sledges along better than we expected. The
temperature rose, as usual, with a wind from this
quarter: +14° F. It was a pleasure to be out in such
VOL. II. 28
26 THE START FOR THE POLE
a temperatui'e, although it did blow a little. The day-
after we had a light breeze from the north. The heavy-
going of the day before had completely disappeared;
instead of it we had the best surface one could desire,
and it made our dogs break into a brisk gallop. That
was the day we were to reach the depot in 82° S., but
as it was extremely thick, our chances of doing so were
small. In the course of the afternoon the distance was
accomplished, but no depot was visible. However, our
range of vision was nothing to boast of — ten sledge-
lengths; not more. The most sensible thing to do,
under the circumstances, was to camp and wait till it
cleared.
At four o'clock next morning the sun broke through.
We let it get warm and disperse the fog, and then
went out. What a morning it was — radiantly clear
and mild. So still, so still lay the mighty desert before
us, level and white on every side. But, no; there in
the distance the level was broken: there was a touch of
colour on the white. The third important point was
reached, the extreme outpost of civilization. Our last
depot lay before us ; that was an unspeakable relief. The
victory now seemed half won. In the fog we had come
about three and a half miles too far to the west; but
we now saw that if we had continued our march the
day before, we should liave come right into our line of
flags. There they stood, flag after flag, and the little
strip of black cloth seemed to wave quite proudly, as
AT THE THIRD DEPOT 27
though it claimed credit for the way in which it had
discharged its duty. Here, as at the depot in 81° S.,
there was hardly a sign of snowfall. The drift round
the depot had reached the same height as there — li feet.
Clearly the same conditions of weather had prevailed
all over this region. The depot stood as we had made
it, and the sledge as we had left it. Falling snow and
drift had not been sufficient to cover even this. The
little drift that there was offered an excellent place for
the tent, being hard and firm. We at once set about the
work that had to be done. First, Uranus was sent into
the next world, and although he had always given us the
impression of being thin and bony, it was now seen that
there were masses of fat along his back; he would be
much appreciated when we reached here on the return.
Jaala did not look as if she would fulfill the conditions,
but we gave her another night. The dogs* pemmican in
the depot was just enough to give the dogs a good
feed and load up the sledges again. We were so well
supplied with all other provisions that we were able
to leave a considerable quantity behind for the return
journey.
Next day we stayed here to give the dogs a thorough
rest for the last time. We took advantage of the fine
weather to dry our outfit and check our instruments.
When evening came we were all ready, and now we
could look back with satisfaction to the good work of
the autumn; we had fully accomplished what we aimed
28 THE START FOR THE POLE
at — namely, transferring our base from 78° 38' to 82° S.
Jaala had to follow Uranus; they were both laid on
the top of the depot, beside eight little ones that never
saw the light of day. During our stay here we decided
to build beacons at every fifth kilometre, and to lay
down depots at every degree of latitude. Although
the dogs were drawing the sledges easily at present, we
knew well enough that in the long-run they would find
it hard work if they were always to have heavy weights
to pull. The more we could get rid of, and the sooner
we could begin to do so, the better.
On November 6, at 8 a.m., we left 82° S. Now the
unknown lay before us ; now our work began in earnest.
The appearance of the Barrier was the same every where —
flat, with a splendid surface. At the first beacon we put
up we had to shoot Lucy. We were sorry to put an
end to this beautiful creature, but there was nothing
else to be done. Her friends — Karenius, Sauen, and
Schwartz — scowled up at the beacon where she lay
as they passed, but duty called, and the whip sang
dangerously near them, though they did not seem to
hear it. We had now extended our daily march to
twenty -three miles; in this way we should do a degree
in three days.
On the 7th we decided to stop for a day's rest. The
dogs had been picking up wonderfully every day, and
were now at the top of their condition, as far as health
and training went. With the greatest ease they covered
DEPOT IN 83'^ S.
DEPOT IN 82" S.
To face por/e 28, Vol. II.
LAND IN SIGHT 29
the day's march at a pace of seven and a half kilometres
(four miles and two-thirds) an hour. As for ourselves,
we never had to move a foot; all we had to do was to
let ourselves be towed. The same evening we had to put
an end to the last of our ladies — Else. She was Hassel's
pride and the ornament of his team; but there was no
help for it. She was also placed at the top of a beacon.
When we halted that evening in 82° 20' S., we saw
on the south-western horizon several heavy masses of
drab-coloured cloud, such as are usually to be seen over
land. We could make out no land that evening, how-
ever ; but when we came out next morning and directed
our glasses to that quarter, the land lay there, lofty and
clear in the morning sun. We were now able to dis-
tinguish several summits, and to determine that this
was the land extending south-eastward from Beardmore
Glacier in South Victoria Land. Our course had been
true south all the time; at this spot we were about
250 miles to the east of Beardmore Glacier. Our course
would continue to be true south.
The same evening — November 8 — ^we reached 83° S.
by dead reckoning. The noon altitude next day gave
83° 1' S. The depot we built here contained provisions
for five men and twelve dogs for four days ; it was made
square — 6 feet each way — of hard, solid blocks of snow.
A large flag was placed on the top. That evening a
strange thing happened — three dogs deserted, going
northward on our old tracks. They were Lucy's
30 THE START FOR THE POLE
favourites, and had probably taken it into their heads
that they ought to go back and look after their friend.
It was a great loss to us all, but especially to Bjaaland;
they were all three first-rate animals, and among the
best we had. He had to borrow a dog from Hanssen's
team, and if he did not go quite so smoothly as before,
he was still able to keep up.
On the 10th we got a bearing of the mountain chain
right down in south by west true. Each day we drew
considerably nearer the land, and could see more and
more of its details : mighty peaks, each loftier and wilder
than the last, rose to heights of 15,000 feet. What
struck us all were the bare sides that many of these
mountains showed; we had expected to see them far
more covered with snow. Moimt Fridtjof Nansen, for
example, had quite a blue-black look. Only quite at
the summit was it crowned by a mighty hood of ice
that raised its shining top to some 15,000 feet. Farther
to the south rose Mount Don Pedro Christophersen ; it
was more covered with snow, but the long, gabled
summit was to a great extent bare. Still farther south
Mounts Alice Wedel Jarlsberg, Alice Gade, and Ruth
Gade, came in sight; all snow-clad from peak to base.
I do not think I have ever seen a more beautiful or
wilder landscape. Even from where we were, we
seemed to be able to see a way up from several places.
There lay Liv's Glacier,* for instance, which would
* Named after Dr. Nansen's daughter. — Tr.
A NEARER VIEW 31
undoubtedly afford a good and even ascent, but it lay
too far to the north. It is of enormous extent, and
would prove interesting to explore. Crown Prince
Olav's Mountains looked less promising, but they also
lay too far to the north. A little to the west of south lay
an apparently good way up. The mountains nearest to
the Barrier did not seem to offer any great obstruction.
What one might find later, between Mounts Pedro Chris-
tophersen and Fridtjof Nansen, was not easy to say.
On the 12th we reached 84° S. On that day we
made the interesting discovery of a chain of mountains
running to the east; this, as it appeared from the spot
where we were, formed a semicircle, where it joined
the mountains of South Victoria Land. This semicircle
lay true south, and our course was directed straight
towards it.
In the depot in 84° S. we left, besides the usual
quantity of provisions for five men and twelve dogs for
four days, a can of paraffin, holding 17 litres (about
3f gallons) . We had abundance of matches, and could
therefore distribute them over all the depots. The Barrier
continued as flat as before, and the going was as good as
it could possibly be. We had thought that a day's rest
would be needed by the dogs for every degree of latitude,
but this proved superfluous; it looked as if they could
no longer be tired. One or two had shown signs of bad
feet, but were now perfectly well; instead of losing
strength, the dogs seemed to become stronger and more
32 THE START FOR THE POLE
active every day. Now they, too, had sighted the land,
and the black mass of JNIount Fridtjof Nansen seemed
specially to appeal to them; Hanssen often had hard
work to keep them in the right course. Without any
longer stay, then, we left 84° S.the next day, and steered
for the bay ahead.
That day we went twenty-three miles in thick fog,
and saw nothing of the land. It was hard to have to
travel thus blindly off an unknown coast, but we could
only hope for better weather. During the previous
night we had heard, for a change, a noise in the ice. It
was nothing very great, and sounded like scattered
infantry fire — a few rifle-shots here and there underneath
our tent; the artillery had not come up yet. We took
no notice of it, though I heard one man say in the
morning : " Blest if I didn't think I got a whack on the
ear last night." I could witness that it had not cost
him his sleep, as that night he had very nearly snored us
all out of the tent. During the forenoon we crossed
a number of apparently newly-formed crevasses; most
of them only about an inch wide. There had thus
been a small local disturbance occasioned by one of the
numerous small glaciers on land. On the following
night all was quiet again, and we never afterwai'ds heard
the slightest sound.
On November 14 we reached 84° 40' S. We were
now rapidly approaching land; the mountain range on
the east appeared to turn north-eastward. Our line of
>
H
K
H
O
H
t
O
tr'
>
AT THE FOOT OF THE MOUNTAINS 33
ascent, which we had chosen long ago and now had our
eyes fixed upon as we went, would take us a trifle to
the west of south, but so little that the digression was
of no account. The semicircle we saw to the south made
a more disquieting impression, and looked as if it would
offer great irregularities. On the following day the
character of the surface began to change; great wave-
like formations seemed to roll higher and higher as they
approached the land, and in one of the troughs of these
we found the surface greatly disturbed. At some
bygone time immense fissures and chasms would have
rendered its passage practically impossible, but now
they were all drifted up, and we had no difficulty in
crossing.
That day — November 15 — we reached 85° S., and
camped at the top of one of these swelling waves. The
valley we were to cross next day was fairly broad, and
rose considerably on the other side. On the west, in
the direction of the nearest land, the undulation rose to
such a height that it concealed a great part of the land
from us. During the afternoon we built the usual
depot, and continued our journey on the following day.
As we had seen from our camping-ground, it was an
immense undulation that we had to traverse ; the ascent
on the other side felt uncomfortably warm in the power-
ful sun, but it was no higher than 300 feet by the
aneroid. From the top of this wave the Barrier
stretched away before us, flat at first, but we could
34 THE START FOR THE POLE
see disturbances of the surface in the distance. Now
we are going to have some fun in getting to land, I
thought, for it seemed very natural that the Barrier^
hemmed in as it was here, would be much broken up.
The disturbances we had seen consisted of some big, old
crevasses, which were partly filled up ; we avoided them
easily. Now there was another deep depression before
us, with a correspondingly high rise on the other side.
We went over it capitally; the surface was absolutely
smooth, without a sign of fissure or hole anywhere.
Then we shall get them when we are on the top, I
thought. It was rather stiff work uphill, unaccustomed
as we were to slopes. I stretched my neck more and
more to get a view. At last we were up; and what a
sight it was that met us! Not an irregularity, not a
sign of disturbance; quietly and evenly the ascent
continued. I believe that we were then already above
land; the large crevasses that we had avoided down
below probably formed the boundary. The hypsometer
gave 930 feet above the sea.
We were now immediately below the ascent, and
made the final decision of trying it here. This being
settled, we pitched our camp. It was still early in the
day, but we had a great deal to arrange before the
morrow. Here we should have to overhaul our
whole supply of provisions, take with us what was
absolutely necessary for the remainder of the trip, and
leave the rest behind in depot. First, then, we camped.
H
K
H
O
M
13
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>
M
2:
02
FINAL PREPARATIONS 35
worked out our position, fed the dogs and let them
loose again, and then went into our tent to have
something to eat and go through the provision
books.
We had now reached one of the most critical points
of our journey. Our plan had now to be laid so that
we might not only make the ascent as easily as possible,
but also get through to the end. Our calculations had
to be made carefully, and every possibility taken into
account. As with every decision of importance, we
discussed the matter jointly. The distance we had
before us, from this spot to the Pole and back, was
683 miles. Reckoning with the ascent that we saw
before us, with other unforeseen obstructions, and finally
with the certain factor that the strength of our dogs
would be gradually reduced to a fraction of what it now
was, we decided to take provisions and equipment for
sixty days on the sledges, and to leave the remaining
supplies — enough for thirty days — and outfit in depot.
We calculated, from the experience we had had, that
we ought to be able to reach this point again with
twelve dogs left. We now had forty-two dogs. Our
plan was to take all the forty-two up to the plateau;
there twenty-four of them were to be slaughtered, and
the journey continued with three sledges and eighteen
dogs. Of these last eighteen, it would be necessary, in
our opinion, to slaughter six in order to bring the other
twelve back to this point. As the number of dogs grew
36 THE START FOR THE POLE
less, the sledges would become lighter and lighter, and
when the time came for reducing their number to
twelve, we should only have two sledges left. This
time again our calculations came out approximately
right ; it was only in reckoning the number of days that
we made a little mistake — we took eight days less than
the time allowed. The number of dogs agreed exactly;
we reached this point again with twelve.
After the question had been well discussed and each
had given his opinion, we went out to get the repacking
done. It was lucky the weather was so fine, otherwise
tliis taking stock of pro^asions might have been a bitter
piece of work. All our supplies were in such a form
that we could count them instead of weighing them.
Our pemmican was in rations of 1 kilogram (1 pound
li ounces). The chocolate was divided into small
pieces, as chocolate always is, so that we knew what
each piece weighed. Our milk-powder was put up in
bags of 101 ounces — just enough for a meal. Our
biscuits possessed the same property — they could be
counted, but this was a tedious business, as they were
rather small. On this occasion we had to count 6,000
biscuits. Our provisions consisted only of these four
kinds, and the combination turned out right enough.
We did not suffer from a craving either for fat or sugar,
though the want of these substances is very commonly
felt on such journeys as ours. In our biscuits we had
an excellent product, consisting of oatmeal, sugar, and
A RECONNAISSANCE 37
dried milk. Sweetmeats, jam, fruit, cheese, etc., we
had left behind at FramJieim.
We took our reindeer-skin clothing, for which we
had had no use as yet, on the sledges. We were now
coming on to the high ground, and it might easily
happen that it would be a good thing to have. We did
not forget the temperature of - 40° F. that Shackleton
had experienced in 88° S., and if we met with the same,
we could hold out a long while if we had the skin
clothing. Otherwise, we had not very much in our
bags. The only change we had with us was put on
here, and the old clothes hung out to air. We reckoned
that by the time we came back, in a couple of months,
they would be sufficiently aired, and we could put them
on again. As far as I remember, the calculation proved
correct. We took more foot-gear than anything else:
if one's feet are well shod, one can hold out a long
time.
When all this was finished, three of us put on oui* ski
and made for the nearest visible land. This was a little
peak, a mile and three-quarters away — Mount Betty.
It did not look lofty or imposing, but was, nevertheless,
1,000 feet above the sea. Small as it was, it became
important to us, as it was there we got all our geological
specimens. Running on ski felt quite strange, although
I had now covered 385 miles on them; but we had
driven the whole way, and were somewhat out of train-
ing. We could feel this, too, as we went up the slope
38 THE START FOR THE POLE
that afternoon. After JNIount Betty the ascent became
rather steep, but the surface was even, and the going
splendid, so we got on fast. First we came up a smooth
mountain-side, about 1,200 feet above the sea, then
over a Httle plateau ; after that another smooth slope like
the first, and then down a rather long, flat stretch, which
after a time began to rise very gradually, until it finally
passed Into small glacier formations. Our reconnais-
sance extended to these small glaciers. We had ascer-
tained that the way was practicable, as far as we were
able to see; we had gone about five and a half miles
from the tent, and ascended 2,000 feet. On the way
back we went gloriously; the last two slopes down to
the Barrier gave us all the speed we wanted. Bjaaland
and I had decided to take a turn round by Mount Betty
for the sake of having real bare ground under our feet ;
we had not felt it since Madeira in September, 1910,
and now we were in November, 1911. No sooner said
than done. Bjaaland prepared for an elegant " Tele-
mark swing," and executed it in fine style. What I
prepared to do, I am still not quite sure. What I did
was to roll over, and I did it with great effect. I was
very soon on my feet again, and glanced at Bjaaland;
wliether he had seen my tumble, I am not certain.
However, I pulled myself together after this unfor-
tunate performance, and remarked casually that it is
not so easy to forget what one has once learnt. No
doubt he thought that I had managed the " Telemark
ASCENDING MOUNT BETTY.
To face page 3S, Vol. II.
ON BARE GROUND 39
swing " ; at any rate, he was polite enough to let me
think so.
Mount Betty offered no perpendicular crags or deep
precipices to stimulate our desire for climbing ; we only
had to take off our ski, and then we arrived at the top.
It consisted of loose screes, and was not an ideal pro-
menade for people who had to be careful of their boots.
It was a pleasure to set one's feet on bare ground again,
and we sat down on the rocks to enjoy the scene. The
rocks very soon made themselves felt, however, and
brought us to our feet again. We photographed each
other in " picturesque attitudes," took a few stones for
those who had not yet set foot on bare earth, and
strapped on our ski. The dogs, after having been so
eager to make for bare land when they first saw it, were
now not the least interested in it; they lay on the snow,
and did not go near the top. Between the bare ground
and the snow surface there was bright, blue-green ice,
showing that at times there was rimning water here. The
dogs did what they could to keep up with us on the
way down, but they were soon left behind. On our
return, we surprised our comrades with presents from
the country, but I fear they were not greatly appre-
ciated. I could hear such words as, " Norway — stones
— heaps of them," and I was able to put them together
and understand what was meant. The " presents " were
put in depot, as not absolutely indispensable on the
southern journey.
40 THE START FOR THE POLE
By this time the dogs had already begun to be very
voracious. Everything that came in their way dis-
appeared; whips, ski-bindings, lashings, etc., were re-
garded as delicacies. If one put down anything for a
moment, it vanished. With some of them this voracity
went so far that we had to chain them.
CHAPTER XI
THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
On the following day — November 17 — we began the
ascent. To provide for any contingency, I left in the
depot a paper with information of the way we intended
to take through the mountains, together with our plan
for the future, our outfit, provisions, etc. The weather
was fine, as usual, and the going good. The dogs ex-
ceeded our expectations; they negotiated the two fairly
steep slopes at a jog-trot. We began to think there
was no difficulty they could not surmount; the five
miles or so that we had gone the day before, and
imagined would be more than enough for this day's
journey, were now covered with full loads in shorter
time. The small glaciers higher up turned out fairly
steep, and in some places we had to take two sledges
at a time with double teams. These glaciers had an
appearance of being very old, and of having entirely
ceased to move. There were no new crevasses to be
seen; those that there were, were large and wide, but
their edges were rounded off everywhere, and the
crevasses themselves were almost entirely filled with
VOL. II. 41 29
42 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
snow. So as not to fall into these on the return, we
erected our beacons in such a way that the line between
any two of them would take us clear of any danger. It
was no use working in Polar clothing among these hills ;
the sun, which stood high and clear, was uncomfortably
warm, and we were obliged to take off most of our
things. We passed several summits from 3,000 to
7,000 feet high; the snow on one of them had quite a
reddish-brown tint.
Our distance this first day was eleven and a half
miles, with a rise of 2,000 feet. Our camp that evening
lay on a little glacier among huge crevasses; on three
sides of us were towering summits. When we had set
our tent, two parties went out to explore the way in
advance. One party — Wisting and Hanssen — took the
way that looked easiest from the tent — namely, the
course of the glacier ; it here rose rapidly to 4,000 feet,
and disappeared in a south-westerly direction between
two peaks. Bjaaland formed the other party. He
evidently looked upon this ascent as too tame, and
started up the steepest part of the mountain-side.
I saw him disappear up aloft like a fly. Hassel and
I attended to the necessary work round about and in
the tent.
We were sitting inside chatting, when we suddenly
heard someone come swishing down towards the tent.
We looked at each other ; that fellow had some pace on.
We had no doubt as to who it was — Bjaaland, of course.
BJAALAND'S CHOICE 43
He must have gone off to refresh old memories. He
had a lot to tell us ; amongst other things, he had found
" the finest descent " on the other side. What he meant
by " fine " I was not certain. If it was as fine as the
ascent he had made, then I asked to be excused. We
now heard the others coming, and these we could hear
a long way off. They had also seen a great deal, not to
mention " the finest descent." But both parties agreed
in the mournful intelligence that we should have to
go down again. They had both observed the immense
glacier that stretched beneath us running east and west.
A lengthy discussion took place between the two parties,
who mutually scorned each other's "discoveries." "Yes;
but look here, Bjaaland, we could see that from where
you were standing there's a sheer drop " — " You
couldn't see me at all. I tell you I was to the west
of the peak that Hes to the south of the peak that "
I gave up trying to follow the discussion any longer.
The way in which the different parties had disappeared
and come in sight again gave me every reason to decide
in favour of the route the last arrivals had taken. I
thanked these keen gentlemen for their strenuous
ramble in the interests of the expedition, and went
straight off to sleep. I dreamed of mountains and
precipices all night, and woke up with Bjaaland whiz-
zing down from the sky. I announced once more that
I had made up my mind for the other course, and went
to sleep again.
44 THROUGH THE MOUXTAINS
We debated next morning whether it would not be
better to take the sledges two by two to begin with;
the glacier before us looked quite steep enough to
require double teams. It had a rise of 2,000 feet in
quite a short distance. But we would try first with the
single teams. The dogs had shown that their capabili-
ties were far above our expectation ; perhaj^s thej'' would
be able to do even this. We crept off. The ascent
began at once — good exercise after a quart of chocolate.
We did not get on fast, but we won our way. It often
looked as if the sledge would stop, but a shout from the
driver and a sharp crack of the whip kept the dogs on
the move. It was a fine beginning to the day, and we
gave them a well-deserved rest when we got up. We
then drove in through the narrow pass and out on the
other side. It was a magnificent panorama that oj^ened
before us. From the pass we had come out on to a
very small flat terrace, which a few yards farther on
began to drop steeply to a long valley. Round about
us lav summit after summit on every side. We had
now come behind the scenes, and could get our bearings
better. We now saw the southern side of the immense
Mount Nansen; Don Pedro Christophersen we could
see in his full length. Between these two mountains
we could follow the course of the glacier that rose in
terraces along their sides. It looked fearfully broken
and disturbed, but we could follow a little connected
line among the many crevasses; we saw that we could
LAST VIEW OF THE BARRIER 45
go a long way, but we also saw that the glacier forbade
us to use it in its full extent. Between the first and
second terraces the ice was evidently impassable. But
we could see that there was an unbroken ledge up on the
side of the mountain; Don Pedro would help us out.
On the north along the Nansen Mountain there was
nothing but chaos, perfectly impossible to get through.
We put up a big beacon where we were standing, and
took bearings from it all round the compass.
I went back to the pass to look out over the Barrier
for the last time. The new mountain chain lay there
sharp and clear; we could see how it turned from the
east up to east-north-east, and finally disappeared in
the north-east — as we judged, about 84° S. From the
look of the sky, it appeared that the chain was continued
farther. According to the aneroid, the height of the
terrace on which we stood was 4,000 feet above the sea.
From here there was only one way down, and we began
to go. In making these descents with loaded sledges,
one has to use the greatest care, lest the speed increase
to such a degree that one loses command over the
sledge. If this happens, there is a danger, not only of
running over the dogs, but of colliding with the sledge
in front and smashing it. This was all the more im-
portant in our case, as the sledges carried sledge-meters.
We therefore put brakes of rope under our runners
when we were to go downhill. This was done very
simply by taking a few turns with a thin piece of rope
46 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
round each runner; the more of these turns one took,
the more powerful, of course, was the brake. The art
consisted in choosing the right number of turns, or the
right brake; this was not always attained, and the con-
sequence was that, before we had come to the end of
these descents, there were several collisions. One of the
drivers, in particular, seemed to have a supreme con-
tempt for a proper brake; he would rush do\\Ti like
a flash of lightning, and carry the man in front with
him. With practice we avoided this, but several times
things had an ugly look.
The first drop took us down 800 feet; then we had
to cross a wide, stiff piece of valley before the ascent
began again. The snow between the mountains was
loose and deep, and gave the dogs hard work. The
next ascent was up very steep glaciers, the last of which
was the steepest bit of climbing we had on the whole
journey — stiff work even for double teams. Going in
front of the dogs up these slopes was, I could see, a
business that Bjaaland would accomplish far more satis-
factorily than I, and I gave up the place to him. The
first glacier was steep, but the second was like the side
of a house. It was a pleasure to watch Bjaaland use
his ski up there; one could see that he had been up a
hill before. Nor was it less interesting to see the dogs
and the drivers go up. Hanssen drove one sledge
alone; Wisting and Hassel the other. They went by
jerks, foot by foot, and ended by reaching the top. The
ON THE GREAT GLACIER 47
second relay went somewhat more easily in the tracks
made by the first.
Our height here was 4,550 feet, the last ascent having
brought us up 1,250 feet; we had arrived on a plateau,
and after the dogs had rested we continued our march.
Now, as we advanced, we had a better view of the way
we were going; before this the nearest mountains had
shut us in. The mighty glacier opened out before us,
stretching, as we could now see, right up from the
Barrier between the lofty mountains running east and
west. It was by this glacier that we should have to
gain the plateau; we could see that. We had one
more descent to make before reacliing it, and from
above we could distinguish the edges of some big gaps
in this descent, and found it prudent to examine it first.
As we thought, there was a side-glacier coming down
into it, with large, ugly crevasses in many places; but
it was not so bad as to prevent our finally reaching,
with caution and using good brakes, the great main
ice-field — Axel Heiberg Glacier. The plan we had
proposed to ourselves was to work our way up to the
place where the glacier rose in abrupt masses between
the two mountains. The task we had undertaken
was greater than we thought. In the first place, the
distance was three times as great as any of us had
believed; and, in the second place, the snow was so
loose and deep that it was hard work for the dogs after
all their previous efforts. We set our course along the
48 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
white line that we had been able to follow among the
numerous crevasses right up to the first terrace. Here
tributary glaciers came do^\Ti on all sides from the
mountains and joined the main one; it was one of
these many small arms that we reached that evening,
directly under Don Pedro Christophersen.
The mountain below which we had our camp was
covered with a chaos of immense blocks of ice. The
glacier on which we were was much broken up, but, as
with all the others, the fissures were of old date, and,
to a large extent, drifted up. The snow was so loose
that we had to trample a place for the tent, and we
could push the tent-pole right down without meeting
resistance; probably it would be better higher up. In
the evening Hanssen and Bjaaland went out to recon-
noitre, and found the conditions as we had seen them
from a distance. The way up to the first terrace was
easily accessible; what the conditions would be like
between this and the second terrace we had still to
discover.
It was stiff work next day getting up to the first
terrace. The arm of the glacier that led up was not
very long, but extremely steep and full of big crevasses ;
it had to be taken in relays, two sledges at a time.
The state of the going was, fortunately, better than on
the previous day, and the surface of the glacier was
fine and hard, so that the dogs got a splendid hold.
Bjaaland went in advance up through this steep glacier.
DIFFICULTIES AHEAD 49
and had his work cut out to keep ahead of the eager
animals. One would never have thought we were
between 85° and 86° S.; the heat was positively disagree-
able, and, although lightly clad, we sweated as if we
were running races in the tropics. We were ascending
rapidly, but, in spite of the sudden change of pressure,
we did not j^et experience any difficulty of breathing,
headache, or other unpleasant results. That these
sensations would make their appearance in due course
was, however, a matter of which we could be certain.
Shackleton's description of his march on the plateau,
when headache of the most violent and unpleasant kind
was the order of the day, was fresh in the memory of
all of us.
In a comparatively short time we reached the ledge
in the glacier that we had noticed a long way off; it
was not quite flat, but sloped slightly towards the edge.
When we came to the place to which Hanssen and
Bjaaland had carried their reconnaissance on the previous
evening, we had a very fine prospect of the further
course of the glacier. To continue along it was an
impossibility; it consisted here — between the two vast
mountains — of nothing but crevasse after crevasse, so
huge and ugly that we were forced to conclude that
our further advance that way was barred. Over by
Fridtjof Nansen we could not go; this mountain
here rose perpendicularly, in parts quite bare, and
formed with the glacier a surface so wild and cut up
50 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
that all thoughts of crossing the Ice-field in that direc-
tion had to be instantly abandoned. Our only chance
lay in the direction of Don Pedro Christophersen ;
here, so far as we could see, the connection of the
glacier and the land offered possibilities of further
progress. Without interruption the glacier was merged
in the snow-clad mountain-side, which rose rapidly
towards the partially bare summit. Our view, however,
did not extend very far. The first part of the mountain-
side was soon bounded by a lofty ridge running east and
west, in which we could see huge gaps here and there.
From the place where we were standing, we had the
impression that we should be able to continue our course
up there under the ridge between these gaps, and thus
come out beyond the disturbed tract of glacier. We
might possibly succeed in this, but we could not be
certain until we were up on the ridge itself.
We took a little rest — it was not a long one — and then
started. We were impatient to see whether we could
get forward up above. There could be no question of
reaching the height without double teams; first we had
to get Hanssen's and Wisting's sledges up, and then the
two others. We were not particularly keen on thus
covering the ground twice, but the conditions made it
imperative. We should have been pleased just then
if we had known that this was to be the last ascent that
would require double teams; but we did not know this,
and it was more than any of us dared to hope. The
Eh
a
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A CAMP ON THE MOUNTAIN 51
same hard work, and the same trouble to keep the dogs
at an even pace, and then we were up under the ridge
amongst the open chasms. To go farther without a
careful examination of the ground was not to be thought
of. Doubtless, our day's march had not been a par-
ticularly long one, but the piece we had covered had
indeed been fatiguing enough. We therefore camped,
and set our tent at an altitude of 5,650 feet above
the sea.
We at once proceeded to reconnoitre, and the first
thing to be examined was the way we had seen from
below. This led in the right direction— that is, in the
direction of the glacier, east and west — and was thus
the shortest. But it is not always the shortest way that
is the best; here, in any case, it was to be hoped that
another and longer one would offer better conditions.
The shortest way was awful— possibly not altogether
impracticable, if no better was to be found. First we had
to work our way across a hard, smooth slope, which formed
an angle of 45 degrees, and ended in a huge, bottomless
chasm. It was no great pleasure to cross over here on
ski, but with heavily-laden sledges the enjoyment would
be still less. The prospect of seeing sledge, driver, and
dogs slide down sideways and disappear into the abyss
was a great one. We got across with whole skins on
ski, and continued our exploration. The mountain-side
along which we were advancing gradually narrowed
between vast fissures above and vaster fissures below.
52 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
and finally passed by a very narrow bridge — hardly
broader than the sledges — into the glacier. On each
side of the bridge, one looked down into a deep blue
chasm. To cross here did not look very inviting; no
doubt we could take the dogs out and haul the sledges
over, and thus manage it — presuming the bridge held —
but our further progress, which would have to be made
on the glacier, would apparently offer many surprises
of an unpleasant kind. It was quite possible that, with
time and patience, one would be able to tack through
the aj^parently endless succession of deep crevasses; but
we should first have to see whether something better
than this could not be found in another direction. We
therefore returned to camp.
Here in the meantime everything had been put in
order, the tent set up, and the dogs fed. Now came
the great question: What was there on the other side
of the ridge? Was it the same desperate confusion, or
would the ground off'er better facilities? Three of us
went off to see. Excitement rose as we neared the
saddle ; so much depended on finding a reasonable way.
One more pull and we were up; it was worth the
trouble. The first glance showed us that this was the
way we had to go. The mountain-side ran smooth and
even under the lofty summit — like a gabled church
tower — of Mount Don Pedro Christophersen, and
followed the direction of the glacier. We could see
the place where this long, even surface united with the
EXPLORING THE WAY 53
glacier; to all appearance it was free from disturbance.
We saw some crevasses, of course, but they were far
apart, and did not give us the idea that they would
be a hindrance. But we were still too far from the
spot to be able to draw any certain conclusions as to
the character of the ground; we therefore set off
towards the bottom to examine the conditions more
closely. The surface was loose up here, and the snow
fairly deep; our ski slipped over it well, but it would
be heavy for dogs. We advanced rapidly, and soon
came to the huge crevasses. They were big enough
and deep enough, but so scattered that, without much
trouble, we could find a way between them. The
hollow between the two mountains, which was filled
by the Heiberg Glacier, grew narrower and narrower
towards the end, and, although appearances were still
very pleasant, I expected to find some disturbance when
we arrived at the point where the mountain-side passed
into the glacier. But my fears proved groundless; by
keeping right under Don Pedro we went clear of all
trouble, and in a short time, to our great joy, we found
ourselves above and beyond that chaotic part of the
Heiberg Glacier which had completely barred our
progress.
Up here all was strangely peaceful; the mountain-
side and the glacier united in a great flat terrace — a
plain, one might call it — without disturbance of any
kind. We could see depressions in the surface where
54 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
the huge crevasses had formerly existed, but now they
were entirely filled up, and formed one with the surround-
ing level. We could now see right to the end of this
mighty glacier, and form some idea of its proportions.
Mount Wilhelm Christophersen and Mount Ole Engel-
stad formed the end of it; these two beehive-shaped
summits, entirely covered with snow, towered high into
the sky. We understood now that the last of the ascent
was before us, and that what we saw in the distance
between these two mountains was the great plateau
itself. The question, then, was to find a way up, and to
conquer this last obstruction in the easiest manner. In
the radiantly clear air we could see the smallest details
with our excellent prismatic glasses, and make our
calculations with great confidence. It would be possible
to clamber up Don Pedro himself; we had done things
as difficult before. But here the side of the mountain
was fairly steep, and full of big crevasses and a fearful
quantity of gigantic blocks of ice. Between Don Pedro
and WiUiehn Christophersen an arm of the glacier went
up on to the plateau, but it was so disturbed and broken
up that it could not be used. Between Wilhelm
Christophersen and Ole Engelstad there was no means
of getting through. Between Ole Engelstad and Fridtjof
Nansen, on the other hand, it looked more promising,
but as yet the first of these mountains obstructed our
view so much that we could not decide with certainty.
We were all three rather tired, but agreed to continue
BACK TO CAMP 55
our excursion, and find out what was here concealed.
Our work to-day would make our progress to-morrow
so much the easier. We therefore went on, and laid
our course straight over the topmost flat terrace of the
Heiberg Glacier. As we advanced, the ground between
Nansen and Engelstad opened out more and more, and
without going any farther we were able to decide from
the formations that here we should undoubtedly find the
best way up. If the final ascent at the end of the
glacier, which was only partly visible, should present
difficulties, we could make out from where we stood
that it would be possible, without any great trouble, to
work our way over the upper end of the Nansen Moun-
tain itself, which here passed into the plateau by a not
too difficult glacier. Yes, now we were certain that it
was indeed the great plateau and nothing else that we
saw before us. In the pass between the two mountains,
and some little distance within the plateau, Helland
Hansen showed up, a very curious peak to look at. It
seemed to stick its nose up through the plateau, and no
more; its shape was long, and it reminded one of
nothing so much as the ridge of a roof. Although this
peak was thus only just visible, it stood 11,000 feet
above the sea.
After we had examined the conditions here, and found
out that on the following day — if the weather per-
mitted— we should reach the plateau, we turned back,
well satisfied with the result of our trip. We all agreed
56 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
that we were tired, and longing to reach camp and get
some food. The place where we turned was, according
to the aneroid, 8,000 feet above the sea; we were there-
fore 2,500 feet higher than our tent down on the hill-side.
Going down in our old tracks was easier work, though
the return journey was somewhat monotonous. In many
places the slope was rapid, and not a few fine runs were
made. On approaching our camping-ground we had
the sharpest descent, and here, reluctant as we might be,
we found it wiser to put both our poles together and
form a strong brake. We came down smartly enough,
all the same. It was a grand and imposing sight we
had when we came out on the ridge under which — far
below — our tent stood. Surrounded on all sides by
huge crevasses and gaping chasms, it could not be said
that the site of our camp looked very inviting. The
wildness of the landscape seen from this point is not
to be described; chasm after chasm, crevasse after
ci'evasse, with great blocks of ice scattered promiscuously
about, gave one the impression that here Nature was too
powerful for us. Here no progress was to be thought of.
It was not without a certain satisfaction that we
stood there and contemplated the scene. The little dark
speck down there — our tent — in the midst of this chaos,
gave us a feeling of strength and power. We knew in
oiu* hearts tliat the ground would have to be ugly indeed
if we were not to manoeuvre our way across it and find
a place for that little home of ours. Crash upon crash^
AVALANCHES 57
roar upon roar, met our ears. Now it was a shot from
Mount Nansen, now from one of the others; we could
see the clouds of snow rise high into the air. It was
evident that these mountains were throwing off their
winter mantles and putting on a more spring-like garb
We came at a tearing pace down to the tent, where
our companions had everything in most perfect order.
The dogs lay snoring in the heat of the sun, and hardly
condescended to move when we came scudding in among
them. Inside the tent a regular tropical heat prevailed ;
the sun was shining directly on to the red cloth and
warming it. The Primus hummed and hissed, and the
pemmican-pot bubbled and spurted. We desired nothing
better in the world than to get in, fling ourselves down,
eat, and drink. The news we brought was no trifling
matter — the plateau to-morrow. It sounded almost too
good to be true ; we had reckoned that it would take us
ten days to get up, and now we should do it in four. In
this way we saved a great deal of dog food, as we should
be able to slaughter the superfluous animals six days
earlier than we had calculated. It was quite a little
feast that evening in the tent; not that we had any
more to eat than usual — we could not allow ourselves
that — but the thought of the fresh dog cutlets that
awaited us when we got to the top made our mouths
water. In course of time we had so habituated
ourselves to the idea of the approaching slaughter that
this event did not appear to us so horrible as it would
VOL. II. 30
58 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
otherwise have done. Judgment had already been
pronounced, and the selection made of those who were
worthy of prolonged life and those who were to be
sacrificed. This had been, I may add, a difficult problem
to solve, so efficient were they all.
The rumblings continued all night, and one avalanche
after another exposed parts of the mountain-sides that
had been concealed from time immemorial. The
following day, November 20, we were up and away
at the usual time, about 8 a.m. The weather was
splendid, calm and clear. Getting up over the saddle
was a rough beginning of the day for our dogs, and they
gave a good account of themselves, pulling the sledges
up with single teams this time. The going was heavy,
as on the preceding day, and our advance through the
loose snow was not rapid. We did not follow our
tracks of the day before, but laid our course directty for
the place where we had decided to attempt the ascent.
As we approached INIount Ole Engelstad, under which
we had to pass in order to come into the arm of the
glacier between it and Mount Nansen, our excitement
began to rise. What does the end look like? Does
the glacier go smoothly on into the plateau, or is it
broken up and impassable ? We rounded JNIount Engel-
stad more and more ; wider and wider grew the opening.
The surface looked extremely good as it gradually came
into view, and it did not seem as though our assumption
of the previous day would be put to shame. At last
THE LAST ASCENT 59
the whole landscape opened out, and without obstruction
of any kind whatever the last part of the ascent lay
before us. It was both long and steep from the look of
it, and we agreed to take a little rest before beginning
the final attack.
We stopped right under Mount Engelstad in a warm
and sunny place, and allowed ourselves on this occasion
a little lunch, an indulgence that had not hitherto been
permitted. The cooking-case was taken out, and soon
the Primus was humming in a way that told us it would
not be long before the chocolate was ready. It was a
heavenly treat, that drink. We had all walked our-
selves warm, and our throats were as dry as tinder.
The contents of the pot were served roimd by the cook —
Hanssen. It was no use asking him to share alike; he
could not be persuaded to take more than half of what
was due to him— the rest he had to divide among his
comrades. The drink he had prepared this time was
what he called chocolate, but I had some difficulty in
believing him. He was economical, was Hanssen, and
permitted no extravagance; that could be seen very
well by his chocolate. Well, after all, to people who
were accustomed to regard " bread and water " as a
luxury, it tasted, as I have said, heavenly. It was the
liquid part of the lunch that was served extra; if any-
one wanted something to eat,^ he had to provide it
himself — nothing was offered him. Happy was he who
had saved some biscuits from his breakfast!
60 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
Our halt was not a very long one. It is a queer
thing that, when one only has on light underclothing
and windproof overalls, one cannot stand still for long
without feeling cold. Although the temperature was
no lower than - 4° F., we were glad to be on the move
again. The last ascent was fairly hard work, especially
the first half of it. We never expected to do it with
single teams, but tried it all the same. For this last
pull up I must give the highest praise both to the dogs
and their drivers; it was a brilliant performance on
both sides. I can still see the situation clearlv before
me. The dogs seemed positively to understand that
this was the last big effort that was asked of them ; they
lay flat down and hauled, dug their cla\^'s . in and
dragged themselves forward. But they had to stop and
get breath pretty often, and then the driver's strength
was put to the test. It is no child's play to set a
heavily-laden sledge in motion time after time. How
they toiled, men and beasts, up that slope! But they
got on, inch by inch, until the steepest part was behind
them. Before them lay the rest of the ascent in a
gentle rise, up which they could drive without a stop.
It was stiff, nevertheless, and it took a long time before
we were all up on the plateau on the southern side of
Mount Engelstad.
We were very curious and anxious to see what the
plateau looked like. We had expected a great, level
plain, extending boundlessly towards the south; but in
AT THE TOP 61
this we were disappointed. Towards the south-west it
looked very level and fine, but that was not the way we
had to go. Towards the south the ground continued to
rise in long ridges running east and west, probably a
continuation of the mountain chain running to the
south-east, or a connection between it and the plateau.
We stubbornly continued our march; we would not
give in until we had the plain itself before us. Our
hope was that the ridge projecting from Mount Don
Pedro Christophersen would be the last ; we now had it
before us. The going changed at once up here ; the loose
snow disappeared, and a few wind-waves(5a5frw^') began
to show themselves. These were specially unpleasant to
deal with on this last ridge ; they lay from south-east to
north-west, and were as hard as flints and as sharp as
knives. A fall among them might have had very
serious consequences. One would have thought the
dogs had had enough work that day to tire them, but
this last ridge, with its unpleasant snow-waves, did not
seem to trouble them in the least. We all drove up
gaily, towed by the sledges, on to what looked to us
like the final plateau, and halted at 8 p.m. The
weather had held fine, and we could apparently see a
very long way. In the far distance, extending to the
north-west, rose peak after peak ; this was the chain of
mountains running to the south-east, which we now
saw from the other side. In our own vicinity, on the
other hand, we saw nothing but the backs of the
62 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
mountains so frequently mentioned. We afterwards
learned how deceptive the light can be. I consulted
the aneroid immediately on our arrival at the camping-
ground, and it showed 10,920 feet above the sea, which
the hypsometer afterwards confirmed. All the sledge-
meters gave seventeen geographical miles, or thirty-one
kilometres (nineteen and a quarter statute miles) . This
day's work — nineteen and a quarter miles, with an ascent
of 5,750 feet — gives us some idea of what can be
performed by dogs in good training. Our sledges still
had what might be considered heavy loads; it seems
superfluous to give the animals any other testimonial
than the bare fact.
It was difficult to find a place for the tent, so hard
was the snow up here. We found one, however, and
set the tent. Sleeping-bags and kit-bags were handed
in to me, as usual, through the tent-door, and I arranged
everything inside. The cooking-case and the necessary
provisions for that evening and the next morning
were also passed in; but the part of my work that
went more quickly than usual that night was getting
the Primus started, and pumping it up to high-
pressure. I was hoping thereby to produce enough
noise to deaden the shots that I knew would soon
be heard — twenty-four of our brave companions and
faithful helpers were marked out for death. It was
liard — but it had to be so. We had agreed to shrink
from nothing in order to reach our goal. Each man
DOGS SLAUGHTERED 63
was to kill his own dogs to the number that had been
fixed.
The pemmican was cooked remarkably quickly that
evening, and I believe I was unusually industrious in
stirring it. There went the first shot — I am not a
nervous man, but I must admit that I gave a start. Shot
now followed upon shot — they had an uncanny sound
over the great plain. A trusty servant lost his life each
time. It was long before the first man reported that he
had finished; they were all to open their dogs, and take
out the entrails to prevent the meat being contaminated.
The entrails were for the most part devoured warm on
the spot by the victims' comrades, so voracious were
they all. Suggen, one of Wisting's dogs, was especially
eager for warm entrails; after enjoying this luxury, he
could be seen staggering about in a quite misshapen
condition. Many of the dogs would not touch them at
first, but their appetite came after a while.
The holiday humour that ought to have prevailed in
the tent that evening — our first on the plateau — did not
make its appearance; there was depression and sadness
in the air — we had grown so fond of our dogs. The
place was named the " Butcher's Shop." It had been
arranged that we should stop here two days to rest and
eat dog. There was more than one among us who at
first would not hear of taking any part in this feast ; but
as time went by, and appetites became sharper, this
view underwent a change, until, during the last few
64 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
days before reaching the Butcher's Shop, we all thought
and talked of nothing but dog cutlets, dog steaks, and
the like. But on this first evening we put a restraint
on ourselves; we thought we could not fall upon our
four-footed friends and devour them before they had
had time to grow cold.
We quickly found out that the Butcher's Shop was
not a hospitable locality. During the night the tem-
perature sank, and violent gusts of wind swept over the
plain; they shook and tore at the tent, but it would
take more than that to get a hold of it. The dogs
spent the night in eating; we could hear the crunching
and grinding of their teeth whenever we were awake for
a moment. The effect of the great and sudden change
of altitude made itself felt at once; when I wanted to
turn round in my bag, I had to do it a bit at a time, so
as not to get out of breath. That my comrades were
affected in the same way, I knew without asking them ;
my ears told me enough.
It was calm when we turned out, but the weather did
not look altogether promising; it was overcast and
threatening. We occupied the forenoon in flaying a
number of dogs. As I have said, all the survivors were
not yet in a mood for dog's flesh, and it therefore had
to be served in the most enticing form. When flayed
and cut up, it went down readily all along the line;
even the most fastidious then overcame their scruples.
But with the skin on we should not have been able to
THE BUTCHER'S SHOP 65
persuade them all to eat that morning; probably this
distaste was due to the smell clinging to the skins, and
I must admit that it was not appetizing. The meat
itself, as it lay there cut up, looked well enough, in all
conscience; no butcher's shop could have exhibited a
finer sight than we showed after flaying and cutting
up ten dogs. Great masses of beautiful fresh, red
meat, with quantities of the most tempting fat, lay
spread over the snow. The dogs went round and sniffed
at it. Some helped themselves to a piece; others were
digesting. We men had picked out what we thought
was the youngest and tenderest one for ourselves. The
whole arrangement was left to Wisting, both the selec-
tion and the preparation of the cutlets. His choice fell
upon Rex, a beautiful little animal — one of his own
dogs, by the way. With the skill of an expert, he hacked
and cut away what he considered would be sufficient
for a meal. I could not take my eyes off his work ; the
delicate little cutlets had an absolutely hypnotizing
effect as they were spread out one by one over the
snow. They recalled memories of old days, when no
doubt a dog cutlet would have been less tempting than
now — memories of dishes on which the cutlets were
elegantly arranged side by side, with paper frills on the
bones, and a neat pile of petits pois in the middle. All,
my thoughts wandered still farther afield — but that
does not concern us now, nor has it anything to do with
the South Pole.
66 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
I was aroused from my musings by Wisting digging
his axe into the snow as a sign that his work was done,
after which he picked up the cutlets, and went into the
tent. The clouds had dispersed somewhat, and from
time to time the sun appeared, though not in its most
genial aspect. We succeeded in catching it just in time
to get our latitude determined — 85° 36' S. We were
lucky, as not long after the wind got up from the east-
south-east, and, before we knew what was happening,
everything was in a cloud of snow. But now we
snapped our fingers at the weather; what difference
did it make to us if the wind howled in the guy-ropes
and the snow drifted? We had, in any case, made up
our minds to stay here for a while, and we had food in
abundance. We knew the dogs thought much the same :
so long as we have enough to eat, let the weather go hang.
Inside the tent Wisting was getting on well when we
came in after making these observations. The pot was
on, and, to judge by the savoury smell, the preparations
were already far advanced. The cutlets were not fried ;
we had neither frying-pan nor butter. We could, no
doubt, have got some lard out of the pemmican, and we
might have contrived some sort of a pan, so that we
could have fried them if it had been necessary; but we
found it far easier and quicker to boil them, and in this
way we got excellent soup into the bargain. Wisting
knew his business surprisingly well; he had put into
the soup all those parts of the pemmican that contained
PROVISIONS TRANSFERRED 67
most vegetables, and now he served us the finest fresh
meat soup with vegetables in it. The clou of the repast
was the dish of cutlets. If we had entertained the
slightest doubt of the quality of the meat, this vanished
instantly on the first trial. The meat was excellent,
quite excellent, and one cutlet after another disap-
peared with lightning-like rapidity. I must admit that
they would have lost nothing by being a little more
tender, but one must not expect too much of a dog.
At this first meal I finished five cutlets myself, and
looked in vain in the pot for more. Wisting appeared
not to have reckoned on such a brisk demand.
We employed the afternoon in going through our
stock of provisions, and dividing the whole of it among
three sledges; the fourth — Hassel's — was to be left
behind. The provisions were thus divided. Sledge
No. 1 (Wisting's) contained:
Biscuits, 3,700 (daily ration, 40 biscuits per man).
Dogs' pemmican, 2771 pounds (i kilogram, or
1 pound 11 ounces per dog per day).
Men's pemmican, 59i pounds (350 grams, or
1234 ounces per man per day).
Chocolate, 12f pounds (40 grams, or 1*4 ounces per
man per day).
Milk-powder, 13^ pounds (60 grams, or 2*1 ounces
per man per day) .
The other two sledges had approximately the same
supplies, and thus permitted us on leaving this place to
68 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
extend our march over a period of sixty daj-s with full
rations. Our eighteen surviving dogs were divided into
three teams, six in each. According to our calculation,
we ought to be able to reach the Pole from here with
these eighteen, and to leave it again with sixteen.
Hassel, who was to leave his sledge at this point, thus
concluded his provision account, and the divided pro-
visions were entered in the books of the three others.
All this, then, was done that day on paper. It
remained to make the actual transfer of provisions later,
when the weather permitted. To go out and do it that
afternoon was not advisable. Next day, November 23,
the wind had gone round to the north-east, with com-
paratively manageable weather, so at seven in the
morning we began to repack the sledges. This was not
an altogether pleasant task; although the weather
was what I have called " comparatively manageable,"
it was very far from being suitable for packing pro-
visions. The chocolate, which by this time consisted
chiefly of very small pieces, had to be taken out,
counted, and then divided among the three sledges.
The same with the biscuits; every single biscuit had to
be taken out and counted, and as yve had some thousands
of them to deal with, it will readilv be understood what
it was to stand there in about - 4° F. and a gale of
wind, most of the time with bare hands, fumbling over
this troublesome occupation. The wind increased while
we were at work, and when at last we had finished, the
WEATHER-BOUND 69
snow was so thick that we could scarcely see the
tent.
Our original intention of starting again as soon as
the sledges were ready was abandoned. We did not
lose very much by this; on the contrary, we gained on
the whole. The dogs — the most important factor of all
— had a thorough rest, and were well fed. They had
undergone a remarkable change since our arrival at the
Butcher's Shop; they now wandered about, fat, sleek,
and contented, and their former voracity had completely
disappeared. As regards ourselves, a day or two longer
made no difference; our most important article of diet,
the pemmican, was practically left untouched, as for the
time being dog had completely. taken its place. There
was thus no great sign of depression to be noticed when
we came back into the tent after finishing our work,
and had to while away the time. As I went in, I could
descry Wisting a little way off kneeling on the ground,
and engaged in the manufacture of cutlets. The dogs
stood in a ring round him, and looked on with interest.
The north-east wind whistled and howled, the air was
thick with driving snow, and Wisting was not to be
envied. But he managed his work well, and we got
our dinner as usual. During the evening the wind
moderated a little, and went more to the east; we went
to sleep with the best hopes for the following day.
Saturday, November 25, came ; it was a grand day in
many respects. I had already seen proofs on several
70 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
occasions of the kind of men my comrades were, but
their conduct that day was such that I shall never
forget it, to whatever age I may live. In the course of
the night the wind had gone back to the north, and
increased to a gale. It was blowing and snowing so
that when we came out in the morning we could not
see the sledges; they were half snowed under. The
dogs had all crept together, and protected themselves as
well as they could against the blizzard. The tempera-
ture was not so very low (- 16*6° F.), but low enough
to be disagreeably felt in a storm. We had all taken a
turn outside to look at the weather, and were sitting on
our sleeping-bags discussing the poor prospect. " It's
the devil's own weather here at the Butcher's," said
one; "it looks to me as if it would never get any
better. This is the fifth day, and it's blowing worse
than ever." We all agreed. " There's nothing so bad
as lying weather-bound like this," continued another;
" it takes more out of you than going from morning to
night." Personally, I was of the same opinion. One
day may be pleasant enough, but two, three, four,
and, as it now seemed, five days — no, it was awful.
" Shall we try it?" No sooner was the proposal sub-
mitted than it was accepted unanimously and with
acclamation. When I think of my four friends of the
southern journey, it is the memory of that morning
that comes first to my mind. All the qualities that
I most admire in a man were clearly shown at that
r
WMi,'
fV ^i"^! imi^ .\ ^^m^^'^m^
/
^'
AT THE END OF A DAY's MARCH : THE POLE EXPEDITION,
THE TEXT AFTER A BLIZZARD.
To face page 'iO, Vol. 11
START IN A BLIZZARD 71
juncture: courage and dauntlessness, without boasting
or big words. Amid joking and chaff, everything was
packed, and then — out into the bhzzard.
It was practically impossible to keep one's eyes open ;
the fine drift-snow penetrated everywhere, and at times
one had a feeling of being blind. The tent was not
only drifted up, but covered with ice, and in taking
it down we had to handle it with care, so as not to
break it in pieces. The dogs were not much inclined
to start, and it took time to get them into their harness,
but at last we were ready. One more glance over the
camping-ground to see that nothing we ought to have
with us had been forgotten. The fourteen dogs' car-
casses that were left were piled up in a heap, and
Hassel's sledge was set up against it as a mark. The
spare sets of dog-harness, some Alpine ropes, and all
our crampons for ice-work, which we now thought
would not be required, were left behind. The last
thing to be done was planting a broken ski upright
by the side of the depot. It was Wisting who did this,
thinking, presumably, that an extra mark would do no
harm. That it was a happy thought the future will
show.
And then we were off. It was a hard pull to begin
with, both for men and beasts, as the high sastrugi
continued towards the south, and made it extremely
difficult to advance. Those who had sledges to drive
had to be very attentive, and support them so that they
72 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
did not capsize on the big waves, and we who had no
sledges found great difficulty in keeping our feet, as we
had nothing to lean against. We went on like this,
slowly enough, but the main thing was that we made
progress. The ground at first gave one the impression
of rising, though not much. The going was extremely
heavy; it was like dragging oneself through sand.
Meanwhile the sastrugi grew smaller and smaller, and
finally they disappeared altogether, and the surface
became quite flat. The going also improved by degrees,
for what reason it is difficult to say, as the storm con-
tinued unabated, and the drift — now combined with
falling snow — was thicker than ever. It was all the
driver could do to see his own dogs. The surface,
which had become perfectly level, had the appearance
at times of sinking ; in any case, one would have thought
so from the pace of the sledges. Now and again the
dogs would set off suddenly at a gallop. The wind aft,
no doubt, helped the pace somewhat, but it alone could
not account for the change.
I did not like this tendency of the ground to fall
away. In my opinion, we ought to have done with
anything of that sort after reaching the height at
which we were; a slight slope upward, possibly, but
down — no, that did not agree with my reckoning. So
far the incline had not been so great as to cause un-
easiness, but if it seriously began to go downhill, we
should have to stop and camp. To run down at full
DESCENDING AGAIN 73
gallop, blindly and in complete ignorance of the ground,
would be madness. We might risk falling into some
chasm before we had time to pull up.
Hanssen, as usual, was driving first. Strictly speak-
ing, I should now have been going in advance, but the
uneven surface at the start and the rapid pace after-
wards had made it impossible to walk as fast as the dogs
could pull. I was therefore following by the side of
Wisting's sledge, and chatting with him. Suddenly I
saw Hanssen's dogs shoot ahead, and downhill they
went at the wildest pace, Wisting after them. I
shouted to Hanssen to stop, and he succeeded in doing
so by twisting his sledge. The others, who were
following, stopped when they came up to him. We
were in the middle of a fairly steep descent; what
there might be below was not easy to decide, nor would
we try to find out in that weather. Was it possible
that we were on our way down through the mountains
again? It seemed more probable that we lay on one of
the numerous ridges; but we could be sure of nothing
before the weather cleared. We trampled down a place
for the tent in the loose snow, and soon got it up. It
was not a long day's march that we had done — eleven
and three-quarter miles — but we had put an end to
our stay at the Butcher's Shop, and that was a great
thing. The boiling-point test that evening showed that
we were 10,300 feet above the sea, and that we had
thus gone down 620 feet from the Butcher's. We
VOL. II. 31
74 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
turned in and went to sleep. As soon as it brightened,
we should have to be ready to jump out and look at
the weather; one has to seize every opportunity in
these regions. If one neglects to do so, it may mean a
long wait and much may be lost. We therefore all
slept with one eye open, and we knew well that nothing
could happen without our noticing it.
At three in the morning the sun cut through the
clouds and we through the tent-door. To take in the
situation was more than the work of a moment. The
sun showed as yet like a pat of butter, and had not
succeeded in dispersing the thick mists; the wind had
dropped somewhat, but was still fairly strong. This is,
after all, the worst part of one's job — turning out of
one's good, warm sleeping-bag, and standing outside for
some time in thin clothes, watching the weather. We
knew by experience that a gleam like this, a clearing in
the weather, might come suddenly, and then one had to
be on the spot. The gleam came; it did not last long,
but long enough. We lay on the side of a ridge that
fell away pretty steeply. The descent on the south
was too abrupt, but on the south-east it was better and
more gradual, and ended in a wide, level tract. We
could see no crevasses or unpleasantness of any kind.
It was not very far that we could see, though; only
our nearest surroundings. Of the mountains we saw
nothing, neither Fridtjof Nansen nor Don Pedro
Christophersen. Well content with our morning's
STILL DOWNHILL 75
work, we turned in again and slept till 6 a.m., when we
began our morning preparations. The weather, which
had somewhat improved during the night, had now
broken loose again, and the north-easter was doing all
it could. However, it would take more than storm
and snow to stop us now, since we had discovered the
nature of our immediate surroundings; if we once got
down to the plain, we knew that we could always feel
our way on.
After putting ample brakes on the sledge-runners,
we started off downhill in a south-easterly direction.
The slight idea of the position that we had been able to
get in the morning proved correct. The descent was
easy and smooth, and we reached the plain without any
adventure. We could now once more set our faces to
the south, and in thick driving snow we continued our
way into the unknown, with good assistance from the
howling north-easterly gale. We now recommenced
the erection of beacons, which had not been necessary
during the ascent. In the course of the forenoon we
again passed over a little ridge, the last of them that
we encountered. The surface was now fine enough,
smooth as a floor and without a sign of sastrugi.
If our progress was nevertheless slow and difficult, tliis
was due to the wretched going, which was real torture
to all of us. A sledge journey through the Sahara
could not have offered a worse surface to move
over. Now the forerunners came into their own, and
76 THROUGH THE INIOUNTAINS
from here to the Pole Hassel and I took it in turns to
occupy the position.
The weather improved in the course of the day, and
when we camped in the afternoon it looked quite
smihng. The sun came through and gave a delightful
warmth after the last few bitter days. It was not yet
clear, so that we could see nothing of our surroundings.
The distance according to our three sledge-meters was
eighteen and a half miles; taking the bad going into
consideration, we had reason to be well satisfied with it.
Our altitude came out at 9,475 feet above the sea, or a
drop of 825 feet in the course of the day. This surprised
me greatly. What did it mean? Instead of rising
gradually, we were going slowly down. Something
extraordinary must await us farther on, but what?
According to dead reckoning our latitude that evening
was 86° S.
November 27 did not bring us the desired weather;
the night was filled with sharp gusts from the north;
the morning came with a slack wind, but accompanied
by mist and snowfall. This was abominable; here we
were, advancing over absolutely virgin ground, and able
to see nothing. The surface remained about the same
— possibly rather more undulating. That it had been
blowing here at some time, and violently too, was shown
bv the under-surface, which was composed of sastmgi
as hard as iron. Luckily for us, the snowfall of the last
few days had filled these up, so as to present a level
ADVANCING BLINDLY 77
surface. It was heavy going, though better than on the
previous day.
As we were advancing, still blindly, and fretting at
the persistently thick weather, one of us suddenly called
out: "Hullo, look there!" A wild, dark summit rose
high out of the mass of fog to the east-south-east. It
was not far away — on the contrary, it seemed threaten-
ingly near and right over us. We stopped and looked
at the imposing sight, but Nature did not expose her
objects of interest for long. The fog rolled over again,
thick, heavy and dark, and blotted out the view. We
knew now that we had to be prepared for surprises.
After we had gone about ten miles the fog again lifted
for a moment, and we saw quite near — a mile or so
away — two long, narrow mountain ridges to the west
of us, running north and south, and completely covered
with snow. These — HeUand Hansen's INIountains —
were the only ones we saw on our right hand during
the march on the plateau; they were between 9,000
and 10,000 feet high, and would probably serve as
excellent landmarks on the return journey. There was
no connection to be traced between these mountains
and those lying to the east of them; they gave us the
impression of being entirely isolated summits, as we could
not make out any lofty ridge running east and west.
We continued our course in the constant expectation
of finding some surprise or other in our line of route.
The air ahead of us was as black as pitch, as though it
78 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
concealed something. It could not be a storm, or it
would have been already upon us. But we went on
and on, and nothing came. Our day's march was
eighteen and a half miles.
I see that my diary for November 28 does not begin
very promisingly: "Fog, fog — and again fog. Also
fine falling snow, which makes the going impossible.
Poor beasts, they have toiled hard to get the sledges
forward to-day." But the day did not turn out so
badly after all, as we worked our way out of this
uncertainty and found out what was behind the pitch-
dark clouds. During the forenoon the sun came
through and thrust aside the fog for a while ; and there,
to the south-east, not many miles away, lay an immense
mountain mass. From this mass, right across our
course, ran a great, ancient glacier; the sun shone
down upon it and showed us a surface full of huge
irregularities. On the side nearest to the mountain these
disturbances were such that a hasty glance was enough
to show us the impossibility of advancing that way.
But right in our line of route — straight on to the glacier
— it looked, as far as we could see, as though we could
get along. The fog came and went, and we had to
take advantage of the clear intervals to get our bear-
ings. It would, no doubt, have been better if we could
have halted, set up our tent, and waited for decently
clear weather, so that we might survey the ground at
our ease and choose the best way. Going forward
A GLIMPSE OF THE MOUNTAINS 79
without an idea of what the ground was like, was not
very pleasant. But how long should we have to wait
for clear weather? That question was unanswerable;
possibly a week, or even a fortnight, and we had no
time for that. Better go straight on, then, and take
what might come.
What we could see of the glacier appeared to be
pretty steep; but it was only between the south and
south-east, under the new land, that the fog now and
again lifted sufficiently to enable us to see anything.
From the south round to the west the fog lay as thick
as gruel. We could see that the big crevasses lost
themselves in it, and the question of what the glacier
looked like on the west had to be put aside for the
moment. It was to the south we had to go, and there
it was possible to go forward a little way. We continued
our march until the ground began to show signs of the
glacier in the form of small crevasses, and then we
halted. It was our intention to lighten our sledges
before tackling the glacier ; from the little we could see
of it, it was plain enough that we should have stiff work.
It was therefore important to have as little as possible
on the sledges.
We set to work at once to build the depot; the snow
here was excellent for this purpose — as hard as glass.
In a short time an immense erection of adamantine
blocks of snow rose into the air, containing provisions
for five men for six days and for eighteen dogs for
80 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
five days. A number of small articles were also left
behind.
While we were thus occupied, the fog had been
coming and going ; some of the intervals had been quite
clear, and had given me a good view of the nearest part
of the range. It appeared to be quite isolated, and
to consist of four mountains; one of these — Mount
Helmer Hanssen — lay separated from the rest. The
other three — INIounts Oscar Wisting, Sverre Hassel, and
Olav Bjaaland — lay closer together. Behind this group
the air had been heavy and black the whole time, show-
ing that more land must be concealed there. Suddenly,
in one of the brightest intervals, there came a rift in this
curtain, and the summits of a colossal mountain mass
appeared. Our first impression was that this mountain
— Mount Thorvald Nilsen — must be something over
20,000 feet high ; it positively took our breath away, so
formidable did it appear. But it was only a glimpse
that we had, and then the fog enclosed it once more.
We had succeeded in taking a few meagre bearings of
the different summits of the nearest group; they were
not very grand, but better ones were not to be obtained.
For that matter, the site of the depot was so well
marked by its position under the foot of the glacier that
we agreed it would be impossible to miss it.
Having finished the edifice, which rose at least 6 feet
into the air, we put one of our black provision cases on
the top of it, so as to be able to see it still more easily
DANGEROUS CREVASSES 81
on the way back. An observation we had contrived to
take while the work was in progress gave us our latitude
as 86° 21' S. This did not agree very well with the
latitude of our dead reckoning — 86° 23' S. Meanwhile
the fog had again enveloped everything, and a fine,
light snow was falling. We had taken a bearing of the
line of glacier that was most free of crevasses, and so we
moved on again. It was some time before we felt our
way up to the glacier. The crevasses at its foot were
not large, but we had no sooner entered upon the ascent
than the fun began. There was something uncanny
about this perfectly blind advance among crevasses and
chasms on all sides. We examined the compass from
time to time, and went forward cautiously.
Hassel and I went in front on a rope ; but that, after
all, was not much of a help to our drivers. We naturally
glided lightly on our ski over places where the dogs
would easily fall through. This lowest part of the
glacier was not entirely free from danger, as the crevasses
were often rendered quite invisible by a thin overlying
layer of snow. In clear weather it is not so bad to have
to cross such a surface, as the effect of light and shade
is usually to show up the edges of these insidious pitfalls,
but on a day like this, when everything looked alike,
one's advance is doubtful. We kept it going, however,
by using the utmost caution. Wisting came near to
sounding the depth of one of these dangerous crevasses
with sledge, dogs and all, as the bridge he was about to
82 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
cross gave way. Thanks to his presence of mind and a
lightning-Hke movement — some would call it luck — he
managed to save himself. In this way we worked up
about 200 feet, but then we came upon such a labyrinth
of yawning chasms and open abysses that we could not
move. There was nothing to be done but to find the
least disturbed spot, and set the tent there.
As soon as this was done Hanssen and I set out to
explore. We were roped, and therefore safe enough.
It required some study to find a way out of the trap we
had run ourselves into. Towards the group of moun-
tains last described — which now lay to the east oi us —
it had cleared sufficiently to give us a fairly good view
of the appearance of the glacier in that direction. What
we had before seen at a distance, was now confirmed.
The part extending to the mountains was so ground up
and broken that there was positively not a spot where
one could set one's foot. It looked as if a battle had
been fought here, and the ammunition had been great
blocks of ice. They lay pell-mell, one on the top of
another, in all directions, and evoked a picture of violent
confusion. Thank God we were not here while this
was going on, I thought to myself, as I stood looking
out over this battlefield; it must have been a spectacle
like doomsday, and not on a small scale either. To
advance in that direction, then, was hopeless, but that
was no great matter, since our way was to the south.
On the south we could see nothing; the fog lay thick
THE DEVIL'S GLACIER 83
and heavy there. All we could do was to try to make
our way on, and we therefore crept southward.
On leaving our tent we had first to cross a com-
paratively narrow snow-bridge, and then go along a
ridge or saddle, raised by pressure, with wide open
crevasses on both sides. This ridge led us on to an ice-
wave about 25 feet high — a formation which was due to
the pressure having ceased before the wave had been
forced to break and form hummocks. We saw well
enough that this would be a difficult place to pass with
sledges and dogs, but in default of anything better
it would have to be done. From the top of this wave-
formation we could see down on the other side, which
had hitherto been hidden from us. The fog prevented
our seeing far, but the immediate surroundings were
enough to convince us that with caution we could beat
up farther. From the height on which we stood, every
precaution would be required to avoid going down on
the other side; for there the wave ended in an open
crevasse, specially adapted to receive any drivers, sledges
or dogs that might make a slip.
This trip that Hanssen and I took to the south was
made entirely at random, as we saw absolutely nothing ;
our object was to make tracks for the following day's
journey. The language we used about the glacier as
we went was not altogether complimentary; we had
endless tacking and turning to get on. To go one yard
forward, I am sure we had to go at least ten to one
84 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
side. Can anyone be surprised that we called it the
Devil's Glacier? At any rate, our companions ac-
knowledged the justness of the name with ringing
acclamations when we told them of it.
At Hell's Gate Hanssen and I halted. Tliis was
a very remarkable formation; the glacier had here
formed a long ridge about 20 feet high; then, in the
middle of this ridge, a fissure had opened, making a
gateway about 6 feet wide. This formation — like every-
thing else on the glacier — was obviously very old, and
for the most part filled with snow. From this point the
glacier, as far as our view extended to the south, looked
better and better; we therefore turned round and fol-
lowed our tracks in the comforting conviction that we
should manage to get on.
Our companions were no less pleased with tlie news
we brought of our prospects. Our altitude that evening
was 8,650 feet above the sea — that is to say, at the
foot of the glacier we had reached an altitude of 8,450
feet, or a drop from the Butcher's of 2,570 feet. We
now knew very well that we should have this ascent to
make again, perhaps even more; and this idea did not
arouse any particular enthusiasm. In my diary I see
that I conclude the day with the following words:
" What will the next surprise be, I wonder?"
It was, in fact, an extraordinary journey that we were
undertaking, through new regions, new mountains,
glaciers, and so on, without being able to see. That
>
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AT HELL'S GATE 85
we were prepared for suprises was perhaps quite natural.
What I Hked least about this feeling one's way forward
in the dark was that it would be difficult — very difficult
indeed — to recognize the ground again on the way back.
But with this glacier lying straight across our line of
route, and with the numerous beacons we had erected,
we reassured ourselves on this score. It would take a
good deal to make us miss them on the return. The
point for us, of course, was to find our descent on to the
Barrier again — a mistake there might be serious enough.
And it will appear later in this narrative that my fear
of our not being able to recognize the way was not
entirely groundless. The beacons we had put up came
to our aid, and for our final success we owe a deep debt
of gratitude to our prudence and thoughtfulness in
adopting this expedient.
Next morning, November 29, brought considerably
clearer weather, and allowed us a very good survey of
our position. We could now see that the two mountain
ranges uniting in 86° S. were continued in a mighty
chain running to the south-east, with summits from
10,000 to 15,000 feet. Mount Thorvald Nilsen was the
most southerly we could see from this point. Mounts
Hanssen, Wisting, Bjaaland, and Hassel formed, as we
had thought the day before, a group by themselves, and
lay separated from the main range.
The drivers had a warm morning's work. They had
to drive with great circumspection and patience to
86 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
grapple with the kind of ground we had before us; a
slight mistake might be enough to send both sledge and
dogs with lightning rapidity into the next world. It
took, nevertheless, a remarkably short time to cover the
distance we had explored on the previous evening;
before we knew it, we were at Hell's Gate.
Bjaaland took an excellent photograph here, which
gives a very good idea of the difficulties this part of the
journey presented. In the foreground, below the high
snow-ridge that forms one side of a very wide but partly
filled-up crevasse, the marks of ski can be seen in the
snow. This was the photographer, who, in passing over
this snow -bridge, struck his ski into it to try the strength
of the support. Close to the tracks can be seen an open
piece of the crevasse; it is a pale blue at the top, but
ends in the deepest black — in a bottomless abyss. The
photographer got over the bridge and back with a whole
skin, but there could be no question of risking sledges
and dogs on it, and it can be seen in the photograph
that the sledges have been turned right around to try
another way. The two small black figures in the
distance, on the right, are Hassel and I, who are
reconnoitring ahead.
It was no very great distance that we put behind us
that day — nine and a quarter miles in a straight line.
But, taking into account all the turns and circuits we
had been compelled to make, it was not so short after
all. We set our tent on a good, solid foundation, and
c
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A GLORIOUS LANDMARK 87
were well pleased with the day's work. The altitude
was 8,960 feet above the sea. The sun was now in the
west, and shining directly upon the huge mountain
masses. It was a fairy landscape in blue and white,
red and black, a play of colours that defies description.
Clear as it now appeared to be, one could understand
that the weather was not all that could be wished, for
the south-eastern end of Mount Thorvald Nilsen lost
itself in a dark, impenetrable cloud, which led one to
suspect a continuation in that direction, though one
could not be certain.
Mount Nilsen — ah! anything more beautiful, taking
it altogether, I have never seen. Peaks of the most
varied forms rose high into the air, partly covered with
driving clouds. Some were sharp, but most were long
and rounded. Here and there one saw bright, shining
glaciers plunging wildly down the steep sides, and
merging into the underlying ground in fearful confusion.
But the most remarkable of them all was Mount Helmer
Hanssen ; its top was as round as the bottom of a bowl,
and covered by an extraordinary ice-sheet, which was
so broken up and disturbed that the blocks of ice bristled
in every direction like the quills of a porcupine. It
glittered and burned in the sunlight — a glorious spec-
tacle. There could only be one such mountain in the
world, and as a landmark it was priceless. We knew
that we could not mistake that, however the sur-
roundings might appear on the return journey, when
88 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
possibly the conditions of lighting might be altogether
different.
After camping, two of us went out to explore farther.
The prospect from the tent was not encouraging, but
we might possibly find things better than we expected.
We were lucky to find the going so fine as it was on
the glacier; we had left our crampons behind at the
Butcher's Shop, and if we had found smooth ice, instead
of a good, firm snow surf ace, such as we now had, it would
have caused us much trouble. Up — still up, among
monsters of crevasses, some of them hundreds of feet
wide and possibly thousands of feet deep. Our pros-
pects of advancing were certainly not bright; as far as
we could see in the line of our route one immense ridge
towered above another, concealing on their farther sides
huge, wide chasms, which all had to be avoided. We
went forward — steadily forward — though the way round
was both long and troublesome. We had no rope on
tliis time, as the irregularities were so plain that it would
have been difficult to go into them. It turned out,
however, at several points, that the rope would not have
been out of place. We were just going to cross over
one of the numerous ridges — the surface here looked
perfectly whole — wlien a great j^iece broke right under
the back half of Ilanssen's ski. We could not deny
ourselves the pleasure of glancing down into the hole.
The sight was not an inviting one, and we agreed to avoid
this place when we came on with our dogs and sledges.
GRATITUDE FOR SKI 89
Every day we had occasion to bless our ski. We
often used to ask each other where we should now have
been without these excellent appliances. The usual
answer was: Most probably at the bottom of some
crevasse. When we first read the different accounts
of the aspect and nature of the Barrier, it was clear to
all of us, who were born and bred with ski on our feet,
that these must be regarded as indispensable. This
view was confirmed and strengthened every day, and
I am not giving too much credit to our excellent ski
when I say that they not only played a very important
part, but possibly the most important of all, on our
journey to the South Pole. Many a time we traversed
stretches of surface so cleft and disturbed that it would
have been an impossibility to get over them on foot.
I need scarcely insist on the advantages of ski in deep,
loose snow.
After advancing for two hours, we decided to return.
From the raised ridge on which we were then standing,
the surface ahead of us looked more promising than
ever; but we had so often been deceived on the glacier
that we had now become definitely sceptical. How
often, for instance, had we thought that beyond this or
that undulation our trials would be at an end, and that
the way to the south would lie open and free; only to
reach the place and find that the ground behind the
ridge was, if possible, worse than what we had already
been sti-uggling with. But this time we seemed some-
VOL. II. 32
90 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
how to feel victory in the air. The formations appeared
to promise it, and yet — had we been so often deceived
by these formations that we now refused to offer them
a thought? Was it possibly instinct that told us this?
I do not know, but certain it is that Hanssen and I
agreed, as we stood there discussing our prospects, that
behind the farthest ridge we saw, we should conquer
the glacier. We had a feverish desire to go and have
a look at it; but the way round the many crevasses
was long, and — I may as well admit it — we were
beginning to get tired. The return, downliill as it
was, did not take long, and soon we were able to tell
our comrades that the prospects for the morrow were
very promising.
While we had been away, Hassel had measured the
Nilsen Mountain, and found its height to be 15,500 feet
above the sea. How well I remember that evening,
when we stood contemplating the glorious sight that
Nature offered, and believing the air to be so clear that
anything within range of vision must have shown itself;
and how well, too, I remember our astonishment on the
return journey on finding the whole landscape com-
pletely transformed! If it had not been for Mount
Helmer Hanssen, it would have been difficult for us to
know where we were. The atmosphere in these regions
may play the most awkward tricks. Absolutely clear
as it seemed to us that evening, it nevertheless turned
out later that it had been anything but clear. One has,
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TRICKS OF THE ATMOSPHERE 91
therefore, to be very careful about what one sees or
does not see. In most cases it has proved that travellers
in the Polar regions have been more apt to see too much
than too little ; if, however, we had charted this tract as
we saw it the first time, a great part of the mountain
ranges would have been omitted.
During the night a gale sprang up from the south-
east, and blew so that it howled in the guy-ropes of the
tent; it was well that the tent-pegs had a good hold.
In the morning, while we were at breakfast, it was still
blowing, and we had some thoughts of waiting for a
time ; but suddenly, without warning, the wind dropped
to such an extent that all our hesitation vanished. What
a change the south-east wind had produced! The
splendid covering of snow that the day before had
made ski-running a pleasure, was now swept away over
great stretches of surface, exposing the hard substratum.
Our thoughts flew back; the crampons we had left
behind seemed to dance before my eyes, backwards and
forwards, grinning and pointing fingers at me. It would
be a nice little extra trip back to the Butcher's to fetch
them.
Meanwhile, we packed and made everything ready.
The tracks of the day before were not easy to follow;
but if we lost them now and again on the smooth ice
surface, we picked them up later on a snow-wave that
had resisted the attack of the wind. It was hard and
strenuous work for the drivers. The sledges were diffi-
92 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
cult to manage over the smooth, sloping ice ; sometimes
they went straight, but just as often cross- wise, requiring
sharp attention to keep them from capsizing. And this
had to be prevented at all costs, as the thin provision
cases would not stand many bumps on the ice; besides
which, it was such h^rd work righting the sledges again
that for this reason alone the drivers exercised the
greatest care. The sledges were put to a severe test
that day, with the many great and hard irregularities
we encountered on the glacier; it is a wonder they sur-
vived it, and is a good testimonial for Bjaaland's work.
The glacier that day presented the worst confusion
we had yet had to deal with. Hassel and I went in
front, as usual, with the rope on. Up to the spot
Hanssen and I had reached the evening before our pro-
gress was comparatively easy; one gets on so much
quicker when one knows that the way is practicable.
After this point it became worse; indeed, it was often
so bad that we had to stop for a long time and try in
various directions, before finding a way. More than
once the axe had to be used to hack away obstructions.
At one time things looked really serious; chasm after
chasm, hummock after hummock, so high and steep
that they were like mountains. Here we went out and
explored in every direction to find a passage; at last we
found one, if, indeed, it deserved the name of a passage.
It was a bridge so narrow that it scarcely allowed room
for the width of the sledge; a fearful abyss on each
A TRIAL OF PATIENCE 93
side. The crossing of this place reminded me of the
tight-rope walker going over Niagara. It was a good
thing none of us was subject to giddiness, and that the
dogs did not know exactly what the result of a false
step would be.
On the other side of this bridge we began to go
downhill, and our course now lay in a long valley
between lofty undulations on each side. It tried our
patience severely to advance here, as the line of the
hollow was fairly long and ran due west. We tried
several times to lay our course towards the south and
clamber up the side of the undulation, but these efforts
did not pay us. We could always get up on to the
ridge, but we could not come down again on the other
side; there was nothing to be done but to follow the
natural course of the valley until it took us into the
tract lying to the south. It was especially the drivers
whose patience was sorely tried, and I could see them
now and then take a turn up to the top of the ridge,
not satisfied with the exploration Hassel and I had
made. But the result was always the same; they had
to submit to Nature's caprices and follow in our tracks.
Our course along this natural line was not entirely
free from obstruction; crevasses of various dimensions
constantly crossed our path. The ridge or undulation,
at the top of which we at last arrived, had quite an
imposing effect. It terminated on the east in a steep
drop to the underlying surface, and attained at this
94 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
point a height of over 100 feet. On the west it sloped
gradually into the lower ground and allowed us to
advance that way. In order to have a better view of
the surroundings we ascended the eastern and highest
part of the ridge, and from here we at once had a
confirmation of our supposition of the day before. The
ridge we had then seen, behind which we hoped to find
better conditions, could now be seen a good way ahead.
And what we then saw made our hearts beat fast with
joy. Could that great white, unbroken plain over
there be real, or was it only an illusion? Time would
show.
Meanwhile Hassel and I jogged on, and the others
followed. We had to get through a good many
difficulties yet before we reached that point, but,
compared with all the breakneck places we had already
crossed, these were of a comparatively tame description.
It was with a sigh of relief that we arrived at the plain
that promised so well; its extent was not very great,
but we were not very exacting either in this respect,
after our last few days' march over the broken surface.
Farther to the south we could still see great masses
piled up by pressure, but the intervals between them
were very great and the surface was whole. This
was, then, the first time since we tackled the Devil's
Glacier that we were able to steer true south for a few
minutes.
As we progressed, it could be seen that we had really
A CHANGE IN THE GROUND 95
come upon another kind of ground; for once we had
not been made fools of. Not that we had an unbroken,
level surface to go upon — it would be a long time before
we came to that — but we were able to keep our course
for long stretches at a time. The huge crevasses
became rarer, and so filled up at both ends that we were
able to cross them without going a long way round.
There was new life in all of us, both dogs and men, and
we went rapidly southward. As we advanced, the
conditions improved more and more. We could see in
the distance some huge dome-shaped formations, that
seemed to tower high into the air: these turned out
to be the southernmost limit of the big crevasses
and to form the transition to the third phase of the
glacier.
It was a stiff climb to get up these domes, which
were fairly high and swept smooth by the wind. They
lay straight in our course, and from their tops we had a
good view. The surface we were entering upon was
quite different from that on the northern side of the
domes. Here the big crevasses were entirely filled with
snow and might be crossed anywhere. What specially
attracted one's attention here was an immense number
of small formations in the shape of haycocks. Great
stretches of the surface were swept bare, exposing the
smooth ice.
It was evident that these various formations or phases
in the glacier were due to the underlying ground. The
96 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
first tract we had passed, where the confusion was so
extreme, must be tlie part that lay nearest the bare
land; in proportion as the glacier left the land, it
became less disturbed. In the haycock district the
disturbance had not produced cracks in the surface to
any extent, only upheaval here and there. How these
haycocks were formed and what they looked like inside
we were soon to find out. It was a pleasure to be able
to advance all the time, instead of constantly turning
and going round; only once or twice did we have to
turn aside for the larger haycocks, otherwise we kept
our course. The great, clean-swept stretches of surface
that we came upon from time to time were split in
every direction, but the cracks were very narrow — about
half an inch wide.
We had difficulty in finding a place for the tent that
evening; the surface was equally hard everywhere, and
at last we had to set it on the bare ice. Luckily for
our tent-pegs, this ice was not of the bright, steely
variety; it was more milky in appearance and not so
hard, and we were thus able to knock in the pegs with
the axe. When the tent was up, Hassel went out as
usual to fetch snow for the cooker. As a rule he
performed this task with a big knife, specially made for
snow; but this evening he went out armed with an axe.
He was very pleased with the abundant and excellent
material that lay to his hand; there was no need to go
far. Just outside the tent door, two feet away, stood a
A BAD DAY 97
fine little haycock, that looked as if it would serve the
purpose well. Hassel raised his axe and gave a good
sound blow; the axe met with no resistance, and went
in up to the haft. The haycock was hollow. As the
axe was pulled out the surrounding part gave way, and
one could hear the pieces of ice falHng down through
the dark hole. It appeared, then, that two feet from
our door we had a most convenient way down into the
cellar. Hassel looked as if he enjoyed the situation.
"Black as a sack," he smiled; "couldn't see any
bottom." Hanssen was beaming; no doubt he would
have liked the tent a little nearer. The material
provided by the haycock was of the best quality, and
well adapted for cooking purposes.
The next day, December 1, was a very fatiguing
one for us all. From early morning a blinding blizzard
raged from the south-east, with a heavy fall of snow.
The going was of the very worst kind — polished ice.
I stumbled forward on ski, and had comparatively
easy work. The drivers had been obliged to take off
their ski and put them on the loads, so as to walk by the
side, support the sledges, and give the dogs help when
they came to a difficult place; and that was pretty
often, for on this smooth ice surface there were a
number of small scattered sastrugi, and these con-
sisted of a kind of snow that reminded one more of
fish-glue than of anything else when the sledges came
in contact with it. The dogs could get no hold with
98 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
their claws on the smooth ice, and when the sledge
came on to one of these tough little waves, they
could not manage to haul it over, try as they might.
The driver then had to put all his strength into it
to prevent the sledge stopping. Thus in most cases
the combined efforts of men and dogs carried the
sledge on.
In the course of the afternoon the surface again began
to be more disturbed, and great crevasses crossed our
path time after time. These crevasses were really
rather dangerous; they looked very innocent, as they
were quite filled up with snow, but on a nearer ac-
quaintance with them we came to understand that they
were far more hazardous than we dreamed of at first.
It turned out that between the loose snow-filling and
the firm ice edges there was a fairly broad, open space,
leading straight down into the depths. The layer of
snow which covered it over was in most cases quite
thin. In driving out into one of these snow-filled
crevasses nothing happened as a rule; but it was in
getting off on the other side that the critical moment
arrived. For here the dogs came up on to the smooth
ice surface, and could get no hold for their claws, with the
result that it was left entirely to the driver to haul the
sledge up. The strong pull he then had to give
sent him through the thin layer of snow. Under these
circumstances he took a good, firm hold of the sledge-
lashing, or of a special strap that had been made with a
INSIDE THE TENT 99
view to these accidents. But familiarity breeds con-
tempt, even with the most cautious, and some of the
drivers were often within an ace of going down into
" the cellar."
If this part of the journey was trying for the dogs, it
was certainly no less so for the men. If the weather had
even been fine, so that we could have looked about us,
we should not have minded it so much, but in this vile
weather it was, indeed, no pleasure. Our time was
also a good deal taken up with thawing noses and
cheeks as they froze — not that we stopped; we had
no time for that. We simply took off a mit, and laid
the warm hand on the frozen spot as we went; when
we thought we had restored sensation, we put the hand
back into the mit. By this time it would want warm-
ing. One does not keep one's hands bare for long with
the thermometer several degrees below zero and a storm
blowing. In spite of the unfavourable conditions we
had been working in, the sledge-meters that evening
showed a distance of fifteen and a half miles. We
were well satisfied with the day's work when we
camped.
Let us cast a glance into the tent this evening.
It looks cosy enough. The inner half of the tent
is occupied by three sleeping-bags, whose respective
owners have found it both comfortable and expedient to
turn in, and may now be seen engaged with their diaries.
The outer half — that nearest the door — has only two
100 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
sleeping-bags, but the rest of the space is taken up with
the whole cooking apparatus of the expedition. The
owners of these two bags are still sitting up. Hanssen
is cook, and will not turn in until the food is readv
and served. Wisting is his sworn comrade and assistant,
and is ready to lend him any aid that maj^ be required.
Hanssen appears to be a careful cook ; he evidently does
not like to burn the food, and his spoon stirs the con-
tents of the pot incessantly. " Soup!" The effect of
the word is instantaneous. Everyone sits up at once
with a cup in one hand and a spoon in the other. Each
one in his turn has his cup filled with what looks like
the most tasty vegetable soup. Scalding hot it is, as
one can see by the faces, but for all that it disappears
with surprising rapidity. Again the cups are filled, this
time with more solid stuff — pemmican. With praise-
worthy despatch their contents are once more de-
molished, and they are filled for the third time. There
is nothing the matter with these men's appetites. The
cups are carefully scraped, and the enjoyment of bread
and water begins. It is easy to see, too, that it is an
enjoyment — greater, to judge by the pleasure on their
faces, than the most skilfully devised menu could afford.
They positively caress the biscuits before they eat them.
And tlie water — ice-cold water they all call for — this
also disappears in great quantities, and procures, I feel
certain from their expression, a far greater pleasure and
satisfaction than the finest wine that was ever produced.
PREPARATIONS FOR SUNDAY 101
The Primus hums softly during the whole meal, and
the temperature in the tent is quite pleasant.
When the meal is over, one of them calls for scissors
and looking-glass, and then one may see the Polar
explorers dressing their hair for the approaching Sunday.
The heard is cut quite short with the clipper every
Saturday evening; this is done not so much from
motives of vanity as from considerations of utility and
comfort. The beard invites an accumulation of ice,
which may often be very embarrassing. A beard in
the Polar regions seems to me to be just as awkward
and unpractical as — well, let us say, walking with a tall
hat on each foot. As the beard-clipper and the mirror
make their round, one after the other disappears into his
bag, and with five " Good-nights," silence falls upon the
tent. The regular breathing soon announces that the
day's work demand its tribute. Meanwhile the south-
easter howls, and the snow beats against the tent. The
dogs have curled themselves up, and do not seem to
trouble themselves about the weather.
The storm continued unabated on the following day,
and on account of the dangerous nature of the ground
we decided to wait awhile. In the course of the morn-
ing— towards noon, perhaps — the wind dropped a little,
and out we went. The sun peeped through at times,
and we took the welcome opportunity of getting an
altitude— 86° 47' S. was the result.
At this camp we left behind all our delightful rein-
r
102 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
deer-skin clothing, as we could see that we should have
no use for it, the temperature being far too high. We
kept the hoods of our reindeer coats, however; we
might be glad of them in going against the wind. Our
day's march was not to be a long one; the little slack-
ening of the wind about midday was only a joke. It
soon came on again in earnest, with a sweeping blizzard
from the same quarter — the south-east. If we had
known the ground, we should possibly have gone on;
but in this storm and driving snow, which prevented
our keeping our eyes open, it was no use. A serious
accident might happen and ruin all. Two and half
miles was therefore our whole distance. The tempera-
ture when we camped was - 5"8° F. Height above the
sea, 9,780 feet.
In the course of the night the wind veered from
south-east to north, falling light, and the weather
cleared. This M^as a good chance for us, and we were
not slow to avail ourselves of it. A gradually rising
ice surface lay before us, bright as a mirror. As on the
preceding days, I stumbled along in front on ski, while
the others, without their ski, had to follow and support
the sledges. The surface still offered filled crevasses,
though perhaps less frequently than before. JNIean-
while small patches of snow began to show themselves
on the polished surface, and soon increased in number
and size, initil before very long they united and covered
the unpleasant ice with a good and even layer of snow.
THE DEVIL'S BALLROOM 103
Then ski were put on again, and we continued our way
to the south with satisfaction.
We were all rejoicing that we had now conquered
this treacherous glacier, and congratulating ourselves
on having at last arrived on the actual plateau. As we
were going along, feeling pleased about this, a ridge
suddenly appeared right ahead, telling us plainly that
perhaps all our sorrows were not yet ended. The
ground had begun to sink a little, and as we came
nearer we could see that we had to cross a rather wide,
but not deep, valley before we arrived under the ridge.
Great lines of hummocks and haycock-shaped pieces of
ice came in view on every side; we could see that we
should have to keep our ej^es open.
And now we came to the formation in the glacier
that we called the Devil's Ballroom. Little by little
the covering of snow that we had praised in such
high terms disappeared, and before us lay this wide
valley, bare and gleaming. At first it went well
enough; as it was downhill, we were going at a good
pace on the smooth ice. Suddenly Wisting's sledge
cut into the surface, and turned over on its side. We
all knew what had happened — one of the runners was
in a crevasse. Wisting set to work, with the assistance
of Hassel, to raise the sledge, and take it out of its
dangerous position; meanwhile Bjaaland had got out
his camera and was setting it up. Accustomed as we
were to such incidents, Hanssen and I were watching
104 THROUGH THE MOUNTAIXS
the scene from a point a little way in advance, where
we had arrived when it happened. As the photography-
took rather a long time, I assumed that the crevasse
was one of the filled ones and presented no particular
danger, but that Bjaaland wanted to have a souvenir
among his photographs of the numerous crevasses and
ticklish situations we had been exposed to. As to the
crack being filled up, there was of course no need to
inquire. I hailed them, and asked how they were
getting on. "Oh, all right," was the answer; "we've
just finished." — " What does the crevasse look like?" —
"Oh, as usual," they shouted back; "no bottom." I
mention this little incident just to show how one can
grow accustomed to anything in this world. There
were these two — Wisting and Hassel — lying over a
yawning, bottomless abyss, and having their photo-
graph taken; neither of them gave a thought to the
serious side of the situation. To judge from the laughter
and jokes we heard, one would have thought their posi-
tion was something quite different.
When the photographer had quietly and leisurely
finished his work — he got a remarkably good picture
of the scene — the other two together raised the sledge,
and the journey was continued. It was at this crevasse
that we entered his Majesty's Ballroom. The surface,
did not really look bad. True, the snow was blown
away, which made it difficult to advance, but we did
not see many cracks. There were a good many pressure-
THE BALLROOM FLOOR 105
masses, as already mentioned, but even in the neigh-
bourhood of these we could not see any marked
disturbance. The first sign that the surface was more
treacherous than it appeared to be was when Hanssen's
leading dogs went right through the apparently solid
floor. They remained hanging by their harness, and
were easily pulled up again. When we looked through
the hole they had made in the crust, it did not give us
the impression of being very dangerous, as, 2 or 3 feet
below the outer crust, there lay another surface, which
appeared to consist of pulverized ice. We assumed
that this lower surface was the solid one, and that
therefore there was no danger in falling through the
upper one. But Bjaaland was able to tell us a different
story. He had, in fact, fallen through the outer crust,
and was well on his way through the inner one as well,
when he got hold of a loop of rope on his sledge and
saved himself in the nick of time. Time after time the
dogs now fell through, and time after time the men went
in. The effect of the open space between the two
crusts was that the ground under our feet sounded
unpleasantly hollow as we went over it. The drivers
whipped up their dogs as much as they could, and with
shouts and brisk encouragement they went rapidly over
the treacherous floor. Fortunately this curious forma-
tion was not of great extent, and we soon began to
observe a change for the better as we came up the
ridge. It soon appeared that the Ballroom was the
VOL. II. 33
106 THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS
glacier's last farewell to us. With it all irregularities
ceased, and both surface and going improved by leaps
and bounds, so that before very long we had the satis-
faction of seeing that at last we had really conquered
all these unpleasant difficulties. The surface at once
became fine and even, with a splendid covering of snow
everywhere, and we went rapidly on our way to the
south with a feeling of security and safety.
FOR THE FINAL MARCH.
To face page 106, Vol. II.
4
a
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CHAPTER XII
AT THE POLE
lNlat.87° S. — according to dead reckoning — we saw the
last of the land to the north-east. The atmosphere was
then apparently as clear as could be, and we felt certain
that our view covered all the land there was to be seen
from that spot. We were deceived again on this occa-
sion, as will be seen later. Our distance that day
(December 4) was close upon twenty-five miles; height
above the sea, 10,100 feet.
The weather did not continue fine for long. Next
day (December 5) there was a gale from the north, and
once more the whole plain was a mass of drifting snow.
In addition to this there was thick falling snow, which
blinded us and made things worse, but a feeling of
security had come over us and helped us to advance
rapidly and without hesitation, although we could see
nothing. That day we encountered new surface condi-
tions— big, hard snow- waves {sastrugi). These were
anything but pleasant to work among, especially when
one could not see them. It was of no use for us " fore-
runners " to think of going in advance under these
107
108 AT THE POLE
circumstances, as it was impossible to keep on one's
feet. Three or four paces was often the most we
managed to do before falHng down. The sastrugi were
very high, and often abrupt; if one came on them
unexpectedly, one required to be more than an
acrobat to keep on one's feet. The plan we found to
work best in these conditions was to let Hanssen's dogs
go first; this was an unpleasant job for Hanssen, and
for his dogs too, but it succeeded, and succeeded well.
An upset here and there was, of course, unavoidable, but
with a little patience the sledge was always righted
again. The drivers had as much as they could do to
support their sledges among the sastrugi, but while
supporting the sledges, they had at the same time a
support for themselves. It was worse for us who had
no sledges, but by keeping in the wake of them we
could see where the irregularities lay, and thus get over
them. Hanssen deserves a special word of praise for his
driving on this surface in such weather. It is a difficult
matter to drive Eskimo dogs forward when they cannot
see; but Hanssen managed it well, both getting the
dogs on and steering his course by compass. One would
not think it possible to keep an approximately right
course when the uneven ground gives such violent
shocks that the needle flies several times round the
compass, and is no sooner still again than it recommences
the same dance; but when at last we got an observa-
tion, it turned out that Hanssen had steered to a hair,
THE TOP OF THE PLATEAU 109
for the observations and dead reckoning agreed to a
mile. In spite of all hindrances, and of being able
to see nothing, the sledge-meters showed nearly twenty-
five miles. The hypsometer showed 11,070 feet above
the sea; we had therefore reached a greater altitude
than the Butcher's.
December 6 brought the same weather: thick snow,
sky and plain all one, nothing to be seen. Nevertheless
we made splendid progress. The sastrugi gradually
became levelled out, until the surface was perfectly
smooth; it was a relief to have even ground to go
upon once more. These irregularities that one was
constantly falling over were a nuisance ; if we had met
with them in our usual surroundings it would not have
mattered so much; but up here on the high ground,
where we had to stand and gasp for breath every time
we rolled over, it was certainly not pleasant.
That day we passed 88° S., and camped in 88° 9' S.
A great surprise awaited us in the tent that evening. I
expected to find, as on the previous evening, that the
boiling-point had fallen somewhat; in other words, that
it would show a continued rise of the ground, but to our
astonishment this was not so. The water boiled at
exactly the same temperature as on the preceding day.
I tried it several times, to convince myself that there
was nothing wrong, each time with the same result.
There was great rejoicing among us all when I was able
to announce that we had arrived on the top of the plateau.
110 AT THE POLE
December 7 began like the 6th, with absolutely thick
weather, but, as they say, you never know what the day
is like before sunset. Possibly I might have chosen
a better expression than this last — one more in agree-
ment with the natural conditions — but I will let it stand
Though for several weeks now the sun had not set, my
readers will not be so critical as to reproach me with
inaccuracy. With a light wind from the north-east, we
now went southward at a good speed over the perfectly
level plain, with excellent going. The uphill work had
taken it out of our dogs, though not to any serious
extent. They had turned greedy — there is no denying
that — and the half kilo of pemmican they got each day
was not enough to fill their stomachs. Early and late
they were looking for something — no matter what — to
devour. To begin with they contented themselves with
such loose objects as ski-bindings, whips, boots, and the
like; but as we came to know their proclivities, we took
such care of everything that they found no extra meals
lying about. But that was not the end of the matter.
They then went for the fixed lashings of the sledges,
and — if we had allowed it — would very quickly have
resolved the various sledges into their component parts.
But we found a way of stopping that : every evening, on
halting, the sledges were buried in the snow, so as to
hide all the lashings. That was successful; curiously
enough, they never tried to force the " snow rampart."
I may mention as a curious thing that these ravenous
AN IMPORTANT OBSERVATION 111
animals, that devoured everything they came across,
even to the ebonite points of our ski-sticks, never made
any attempt to break into the provision cases. They
lay there and went about among the sledges with their
noses just on a level with the split cases, seeing and
scenting the pemmican, without once making a sign of
taking any. But if one raised a lid, they were not long
in showing themselves. Then they all came in a great
hurry and flocked about the sledges in the hope of
getting a little extra bit. I am at a loss to explain this
behaviour; that bashfulness was not at the root of it, I
am tolerably certain.
During the forenoon the thick, grey curtain of cloud
began to grow thinner on the horizon, and for the first
time for three days we could see a few miles about us.
The feeling was something like that one has on waking
from a good nap, rubbing one's eyes and looking around.
We had become so accustomed to the grey twilight
that this positively dazzled us. Meanwhile, the upper
layer of air seemed obstinately to remain the same and
to be doing its best to prevent the sun from showing
itself. We badly wanted to get a meridian altitude, so
that we could determine our latitude. Since 86° 47' S.
we had had no observation, and it was not easy to say
when we should get one. Hitherto, the weather con-
ditions on the high ground had not been particularly
favourable. Although the prospects were not very
promising, we halted at 11 a.m. and made ready to
112 AT THE POLE
catch the sun if it should be kind enough to look out.
Hassel and Wisting used one sextant and artificial
horizon, Hanssen and I the other set.
I don't know that I have ever stood and absolutely
pulled at the sun to get it out as I did that time. If
we got an observation here which agreed with our
reckoning, then it would be possible, if the worst came
to the worst, to go to the Pole on dead reckoning;
but if we got none now, it was a question w^hether
our claim to the Pole would be admitted on the dead
reckoning we should be able to produce. Whether
my pulling helped or not, it is certain that the sun
appeared. It was not very brilliant to begin with,
but, practised as we now were in availing ourselves
of even the poorest chances, it was good enough.
Down it came, was checked by all, and the altitude
written down. The curtain of cloud was rent more
and more, and before we had finished our work — that
is to say, caught the sun at its highest, and convinced
ourselves that it was descending again — it was shining
in all its glory. We had put away our instruments
and were sitting on the sledges, engaged in the calcula-
tions. I can safely say that we were excited. What
would the result be, after marching blindly for so long
and over such impossible ground, as we had been
doing? We added and subtracted, and at last there
was the result. We looked at each other in sheer
incredulity: the result was as astonishing as the most
a.
O
<
o
^^
H
<
>
w
en
n
o
<:
SHACKLETON PASSED 113
consummate conjuring trick — 88° 16' S., precisely to a
minute the same as our reckoning, 88° 16' S. If we
were forced to go to the Pole on dead reckoning, then
surely the most exacting would admit our right to
do so. We put away our observation books, ate one
or two biscuits, and went at it again.
We had a great piece of work before us that day:
nothing less than carrying our flag farther south than
the foot of man had trod. We had our silk flag
ready; it was made fast to two ski-sticks and laid
on Hanssen's sledge. I had given him orders that as
soon as we had covered the distance to 88° 23' S., which
was Shackleton's farthest south, the flag was to be
hoisted on his sledge. It was my turn as forerunner,
and I pushed on. There was no longer any difficulty
in holding one's course; I had the grandest cloud-
formations to steer by, and everything now went like
a machine. First came the forerunner for the time
being, then Hanssen,then Wisting,and finally Bjaaland.
The forerunner who was not on duty went where he
liked; as a rule he accompanied one or other of the
sledges. I had long ago fallen into a reverie — far
removed from the scene in which I was moving; what
I thought about I do not remember now, but I was
so preoccupied that I had entirely forgotten my sur-
roundings. Then suddenly I was roused from my
dreaming by a jubilant shout, followed by ringing
cheers. I turned round quickly to discover the reason
114 AT THE POLE
of this unwonted occurrence, and stood speechless and
overcome.
I find it impossible to express the feelings that
possessed me at this moment. All the sledges had
stopped, and from the foremost of them the Norwegian
flag was flying. It shook itself out, waved and flapped
so that the silk rustled; it looked wonderfully well
in the pure, clear air and the shining wliite surround-
ings. 88° 23' was past; we were farther south than
any human being had been. No other moment of the
whole trip affected me like this. The tears forced
their way to my eyes; by no effort of will could I keep
them back. It was the flag yonder that conquered me
and my will. Luckily I was some way in advance of
the others, so that I had time to pull myself together
and master my feelings before reaching my comrades.
We all shook hands, with mutual congratulations; we
had won our way far by holding together, and we would
go farther yet — to the end.
We did not pass that spot without according our
highest tribute of admiration to the man, who — together
with Ills gallant companions — had planted his country's
flag so infinitely nearer to the goal than any of his
precursors. Sir Ernest Shackleton's name will always
be written in the annals of Antarctic exploration in
letters of fire. Pluck and grit can work wonders, and
I know of no better example of this than what that man
lias accomplished.
THE LAST DEPOT 115
The cameras of course had to come out, and we got
an excellent photograph of the scene which none of us
will ever forget. We went on a couple of miles more,
to 88° 25\ and then camped. The weather had improved,
and kept on improving all the time. It was now almost
perfectly calm, radiantly clear, and, under the circum-
stances, quite summer-like: -0-4° F. Inside the tent
it was quite sultry. This was more than we had expected.
After much consideration and discussion we had
come to the conclusion that we ought to lay down a
depot — the last one — at this spot. The advantages of
lightening our sledges were so great that we should
have to risk it. Nor would there be any great risk
attached to it, after all, since we should adopt a system
of marks that would lead even a blind man back to the
place. We had determined to mark it not only at right
angles to our course — that is, from east to west — but by
snow beacons at every two geographical miles to the
south.
We stayed here on the following day to arrange this
depot. Hanssen's dogs were real marvels, all of them ;
nothing seemed to have any effect on them. They had
grown rather thinner, of course, but they were still as
strong as ever. It was therefore decided not to lighten
Hanssen's sledge, but only the two others; both Wisting's
andBjaaland's teams had suffered, especially the latter's.
The reduction in weight that was effected was consider-
able— nearly 110 pounds on each of the two sledges;
116 AT THE POLE
there was thus about 220 pounds in the depot. The
snow here was ill-adapted for building, but we put up
quite a respectable monument all the same. It was
dogs' pemmican and biscuits that were left behind; we
carried with us on the sledges provisions for about a
month. If, therefore, contrary to expectation, we should
be so unlucky as to miss this depot, we should never-
theless be fairly sure of reaching our depot in 86° 21'
before supplies ran short. The cross-marking of the
depot was done with sixty splinters of black packing
case on each side, with 100 paces between each. Every
other one had a shred of black cloth on the top. The
splinters on the east side were all marked, so that on
seeing them we should know instantly that we were to
the east of the depot. Those on the west had no marks.
The warmth of the past few days seemed to have
matured our frost-sores, and we presented an awful
appearance. It was Wisting, Hanssen, and I who had
suffered the worst damage in the last south-east blizzard;
the left side of our faces was one mass of sore, bathed in
matter and serum. We looked like the worst type of
tramps and ruffians, and would probably not have been
recognized by our nearest relations. These sores were
a great trouble to us during the latter part of the journey.
The slightest gust of wind produced a sensation as if
one's face were being cut backwards and forwards with
a blunt knife. They lasted a long time, too; I can
remember Hanssen removing the last scab when we
SHALL WE BE FIRST? 117
were coming into Hobart — three months later. We
were very lucky in the weather during this depot work;
the sun came out all at once, and we had an excellent
opportunity of taking some good azimuth observations,
the last of any use that we got on the journey.
December 9 arrived with the same fine weather and
sunshine. True, we felt our frost-sores rather sharply
that day, with - 18'4° F. and a little breeze dead against
us, but that could not be helped. We at once began to
put up beacons — a work which was continued with great
regularity right up to the Pole. These beacons were
not so big as those we had built down on the Barrier;
we could see that they would be quite large enough
with a height of about 3 feet, as it was very easy to see
the slightest irregularity on this perfectly flat surface.
While thus engaged we had an opportunity of becoming
thoroughly acquainted with the nature of the snow.
Often — very often indeed — on this part of the plateau,
to the south of 88° 25', we had difficulty in getting
snow good enough — that is, solid enough for cutting
blocks. The snow up here seemed to have fallen very
quietly, in light breezes or calms. We could thrust the
tent-pole, which was 6 feet long, right down without
meetiiig resistance, which showed that there was no
hard layer of snow. The surface was also perfectly
level; there was not a sign of sastrugi in any
direction.
Every step we now took in advance brought us rapidly
118 AT THE POLE
nearer the goal ; we could feel fairly certain of reaching
it on the afternoon of the 14th. It was very natural
that our conversation should be chiefly concerned with
the time of arrival. None of us would admit that he
was nervous, but I am inclined to think that we all had
a little touch of that malady. What should we see
when we got there? A vast, endless plain, that no eye
had yet seen and no foot yet trodden; or No, it
was an impossibility; with the speed at which we had
travelled, we must reach the goal first, there could be
no doubt about that. And yet — and yet Wherever
there is the smallest loophole, doubt creeps in and gnaws
and gnaws and never leaves a poor wretch in peace.
" What on earth is Uroa scenting?" It was Bjaaland
who made this remark, on one of these last days, when
I was going by the side of his sledge and talking to
him. " And the strange thing is that he's scenting to
the south. It can never be " Mylius, Ring, and
Suggen, showed the same interest in the southerly direc-
tion; it was quite extraordinary to see how they raised
their heads, with every sign of curiosity, put their noses
in the air, and sniffed due south. One would really
have thought there was something remarkable to be
found there.
From 88° 25' S. the barometer and hypsometer
indicated slowly but surely that the plateau was begin-
ning to descend towards the other side. This was a
pleasant surprise to us; we had thus not only found
THE PLATEAU DESCENDS 119
the very summit of the plateau, but also the slope down
on the far side. This would have a very important
bearing for obtaining an idea of the construction of the
whole plateau. On December 9 observations and dead
reckoning agreed within a mile. The same result again
on the 10th: observation 2 kilometres behind reckoning.
The weather and going remained about the same as on
the preceding days : light south-easterly breeze, tempera-
ture - 18'4° F. The snow surface was loose, but ski
and sledges glided over it well. On the 11th, the same
weather conditions. Temperature - 13° F. Observa-
tion and reckoning again agreed exactly. Our latitude
was 89° 15' S. On the 12th we reached 89° 30',reckoning
1 kilometre behind observation. Going and surface as
good as ever. Weather splendid — calm with sunshine.
The noon observation on the 13th gave 89° 37' S.
Reckoning 89° 38*5' S. We halted in the afternoon,
after going eight geographical miles, and camped in
89° 45', according to reckoning.
The weather during the forenoon had been just as
fine as before; in the afternoon we had some snow-
showers from the south-east. It was like the eve of
s«me great festival that night in the tent. One could
feel that a great event was at hand. Our flag was
taken out again and lashed to the same two ski-sticks
as before. Then it was rolled up and laid aside, to be
ready when the time came. I was awake several times
during the night, and had the same feeling that I can
120 AT THE POLE
remember as a little boy on the night before Christmas
Eve — an intense expectation of what was going to
happen. Otherwise I think we slept just as well that
night as any other.
On the morning of December 14 the weather was of
the finest, just as if it had been made for arriving at the
Pole. I am not quite sure, but I beheve we despatched
our breakfast rather more quickly than usual and were out
of the tent sooner, though I must admit that we always
accomplished this with all reasonable haste. We went
in the usual order — the forerunner, Hanssen, Wisting,
Bjaaland, and the reserve forerunner. By noon we had
reached 89 "" 53' by dead reckoning, and made ready to
take the rest in one stage. At 10 a.m. a light breeze
had sprung up from the south-east, and it had clouded
over, so that we got no noon altitude; but the clouds
were not thick, and from time to time we had a glimpse
of the sun through them. The going on that day was
rather different from what it had been; sometimes the
ski went over it well, but at others it was pretty bad.
We advanced that day in the same mechanical way as
before; not much was said, but eyes were used all the
more. Hanssen's neck grew twice as long as before
in his endeavour to see a few inches farther. I had
asked liim before we started to spy out ahead for all he
was worth, and he did so with a vengeance. But, how-
ever keenly he stared, he could not descry anything but
the endless flat plain ahead of us. The dogs had dropped
AT THE SOUTH POLE : OSCAR WISTING AND HIS TEAM ARRIVE AT THE GOAL.
To face page 120, Vul. 11.
CHART OF THE
IMMEDIATE SURROUNDINGS
OF THE
SOUTH POLE
KILOMETRES.
SMILES.
KING
^
^FoUiehn n.JE.im.^ t
SOUTH/ POLE
HA
vifs
PL/ATE AU
Lonj|."\Vesi 180 Long. "East nf (jrefinvici
Cofn-ruyht J^JZ Ruald^irmind.serv .
THE END OF THE JOURNEY 121
their scenting, and appeared to have lost their interest
in the regions about the earth's axis.
At three in the afternoon a simultaneous " Halt !"
rang out from the drivers. They had carefully examined
their sledge-meters, and they all showed the full distance
— our Pole by reckoning. The goal was reached, the
journey ended. I cannot say — though I know it would
sound much more effective — that the object of my life
w^as attained. That would be romancing rather too bare-
facedly. I had better be honest and admit straight
out that I have never known any man to be placed in
such a diametrically opposite position to the goal of
his desires as I was at that moment. The regions
around the North Pole — well, yes, the North Pole
itself — had attracted me from cliildhood, and here I
was at the South Pole. Can anything more topsy-
turvy be imagined?
We reckoned now that we were at the Pole. Of
course, every one of us knew that we were not standing
on the absolute spot; it would be an impossibility with
the time and the instruments at our disposal to ascertain
that exact spot. But we were so near it that the few
miles which possibly separated us from it could not be
of the slightest importance. It was our intention to
make a circle round this camp, with a radius of twelve
and a half miles (20 kilometres), and to be satisfied
with that. After we had halted we collected and con-
gratulated each other. We had good grounds for
VOL. II. 34
122 AT THE POLE
mutual respect in what had been achieved, and I
think that was just the feehng that was expressed in
the firm and powerful grasps of the fist that were
exchanged. After this we proceeded to the greatest
and most solemn act of the whole journey — the planting
of our flag. Pride and affection shone in the five pairs
of eyes that gazed upon the flag, as it unfurled itself with
a sharp crack, and waved over the Pole. I had deter-
mined that the act of planting it — the historic event —
should be equally divided among us all. It was not for
one man to do this; it was for all who had staked their
lives in the struggle, and held together through thick
and thin. This was the only way in which I could
show my gratitude to my comrades in this desolate spot.
I could see that they understood and accepted it in the
spirit in which it was offered. Five weather-beaten,
frost-bitten fists they were that grasped the pole, raised
the waving flag in the air, and planted it as the first at
the geographical South Pole. " Thus we plant thee,
beloved flag, at the South Pole, and give to the plain
on which it lies the name of King Haakon VII.'s
Plateau." That moment will certainly be remembered
by all of us who stood there.
One gets out of the way of protracted ceremonies in
those regions — the shorter they are tlie better. Everyday
life began again at once. When we had got the tent up,
Hanssen set about slaughtering Helge, and it was hard
for him to have to part from his best friend. Helge
REJOICINGS 123
had been an uncommonly useful and good-natured dog ;
without making any fuss he had pulled from morning
to night, and had been a shining example to the team.
But during the last week he had quite fallen away, and
on our arrival at the Pole there was only a shadow of
the old Helge left. He was only a drag on the others,
and did absolutely no work. One blow on the skull,
and Helge had ceased to live. " What is death to one
is food to another," is a saying that can scarcely find
a better apphcation than these dog meals. Helge was
portioned out on the spot, and within a couple of hours
there was nothing left of him but his teeth and the tuft
at the end of his tail. This was the second of our
eighteen dogs that we had lost. The Major, one of
Wisting's fine dogs, left us in 88° 25' S., and never re-
turned. He was fearfully worn out, and must have
gone away to die. We now had sixteen dogs left,
and these we intended to divide into two equal teams,
leaving Bjaaland's sledge behind.
Of course, there was a festivity in the tent that
evening — not that champagne corks were popping and
wine flowing — no, we contented ourselves with a little
piece of seal meat each, and it tasted well and did us
good. There was no other sign of festival indoors.
Outside we heard the flag flapping in the breeze.
Conversation was lively in the tent that evening, and
we talked of many things. Perhaps, too, our thoughts
sent messages home of what we had done.
124 AT THE POLE
Everything we had with us had now to be marked
with the words " South Pole " and the date, to serve
afterwards as souvenirs. Wisting proved to be a first-
class engraver, and many were the articles he had to
mark. Tobacco — in the form of smoke — had hitherto
never made its appearance in the tent. From time to
time I had seen one or two of the others take a quid,
but now these things were to be altered. I had brought
with me an old briar pipe, which bore inscriptions from
many places in the Arctic regions, and now I wanted it
marked " South Pole." When I produced my pipe and
was about to mark it, I received an unexpected gift:
Wisting offered me tobacco for the rest of the journey.
He had some cakes of plug in his kit-bag, which he
would prefer to see me smoke. Can anyone grasp
what such an offer meant at such a spot, made to a
man who, to tell the truth, is very fond of a smoke
after meals? There are not many who can understand
it fully. I accepted the offer, jumping with joy, and
on the way home I had a pipe of fresh, fine-cut plug
every evening. Ah! that Wisting, he spoiled me
entirely. Not only did he give me tobacco, but
every evening — and I must confess I j^ielded to the
temptation after a while, and had a morning smoke
as well — he undertook the disagreeable work of
cutting the plug and filling my pij)e in all kinds of
weather.
33ut we did not let our talk make us forget other
ENCIRCLING THE POLE 125
things. As we had got no noon altitude, we should
have to try and take one at midnight. The weather
had brightened again, and it looked as if midnight
would be a good time for the observation. We there-
fore crept into our bags to get a little nap in the inter-
vening hours. In good time — soon after 11 p.m. — we
were out again, and ready to catch the sun ; the weather
was of the best, and the opportunity excellent. We four
navigators all had a share in it, as usual, and stood
watching the course of the sun. This was a labour
of patience, as the difference of altitude was now very
slight. The result at which we finally arrived was of
great interest, as it clearly shows how unreliable and
valueless a single observation like this is in these
regions. At 12.30 a.m. we put our instruments away,
well satisfied with our work, and quite convinced that
it was the midnight altitude that we had observed.
The calculations which were carried out immediately
afterwards gave us 89° 56' S. We were all well pleased
with this result.
The arrangement now was that we should encircle
this camp with a radius of about twelve and a half
miles. By encircling I do not, of course, mean that we
should go round in a circle with this radius; that would
have taken us days, and was not to be thought of. The
encircling was accomplished in this way: Three men
went out in three different directions, two at right
angles to the course we had been steering, and one in
126 AT THE POLE
continuation of that course. To carry out this work
I had chosen Wisting, Hassel, and Bjaaland. Having
concluded our observations, we put the kettle on to
give ourselves a drop of chocolate; the pleasure of
standing out there in rather light attire had not exactly
put warmth into our bodies. As we were engaged in
swallowing the scalding drink, Bjaaland suddenly ob-
served: "I'd like to tackle this encircling straight
away. We shall have lots of time to sleep when we
get back." Hassel and Wisting were quite of the same
opinion, and it was agreed that they should start the
work immediately. Here we have yet another example
of the good spirit that prevailed in our little community.
We had only lately come in from our day's work — -
a march of about eighteen and a half miles — and now
they were asking to be allowed to go on another
twenty-five miles. It seemed as if these fellows could
never be tired. We therefore turned this meal into
a little breakfast — that is to say, each man ate what he
wanted of his bread ration, and then they began to get
ready for the work. First, three small bags of light
windproof stuff were made, and in each of these was
placed a paper, giving the position of our camp. In
addition, each of them carried a large square flag of the
same dark brown material, which could be easily seen
at a distance. As flag-poles we elected to use our spare
sledge-runners, which were both long — 12 feet — and
strong, and which we were going to take ofl' here in any
A RISKY WALK 127
case, to lighten the sledges as much as possible for the
return journey.
Thus equipped, and with thirty biscuits as an extra
ration, the three men started off in the directions laid
down. Their march was by no means free from danger,
and does great honour to those who undertook it, not
merely without raising the smallest objection, but with
the greatest keenness. Let us consider for a moment
the risk they ran. Our tent on the boundless plain,
without marks of any kind, may very well be compared
with a needle in a haystack. From this the three men
were to steer out for a distance of twelve and a half
miles. Compasses would have been good things to take
on such a walk, but our sledge-compasses were too
heavy and unsuitable for carrying. They therefore had
to go without. They had the sun to go by, certainly,
when they started, but who could say how long it would
last? The weather was then fine enough, but it was
impossible to guarantee that no sudden change would
take place. If by bad luck the sun should be hidden,
then their own tracks might help them. But to trust
to tracks in these regions is a dangerous thing. Before
you know where you are the whole plain may be one mass
of driving snow, obliterating all tracks as soon as they
are made. With the rapid changes of weather we had so
often experienced, such a thing was not impossible.
That these three risked their lives that morning, when
they left the tent at 2.30, there can be no doubt at all,
128 AT THE POLE
and they all three knew it very well. But if anyone
thinks that on this account they took a solemn farewell
of us who stayed behind, he is much mistaken. Not a
bit; they all vanished in their different directions amid
laughter and chaff.
The first thing- we did — Hanssen and I — was to set
about arranging a lot of trifling matters; there was
something to be done here, something there, and above
all we had to be ready for the series of observations we
were to carry out together, so as to get as accurate a
determination of our position as possible. The first
observation told us at once how necessary this was. For
it turned out that this, instead of giving us a greater
altitude than the midnight observation, gave us a smaller
one, and it was then clear that we had gone out of the
meridian we thought we were following. Now the first
thing to be done was to get our north and south line
and latitude determined, so that we could find our posi-
tion once more. Luckily for us, the weather looked as
if it would hold. We measured the sun's altitude at
every hour from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m., and from these obser-
vations found, with some degree of certainty, our latitude
and the direction of the meridian.
By nine in the morning we began to expect the return
of our comrades; according to our calculation they
should then have covered the distance — twenty-five
miles. It was not till ten o'clock that Hanssen made
out the first black dot on the horizon, and not long after
THE LAST MILES 129
the second and third appeared. We both gave a sigh
of reHef as they came on; almost simultaneously the
three arrived at the tent. We told them the result of
our observations up to that time; it looked as if our
camp was in about 89° 54' 30" S., and that with our
encirclino- we had therefore included the actual Pole.
With this result we might very well have been content,
but as the weather was so good and gave the impression
that it would continue so, and our store of provisions
proved on examination to be very ample, we decided to
go on for the remaining ten kilometres ( five and a half
geographical miles) , and get our position determined as
near to the Pole as possible. Meanwhile the three
wanderers turned in — not so much because they were
tired, as because it was the right thing to do — and
Hanssen and I continued the series of observations.
In the afternoon we again went very carefully through
our provision supply before discussing the future. The
result was that we had food enough for ourselves and
the dogs for eighteen days. The surviving sixteen dogs
were divided into two teams of eight each, and the
contents of Bjaaland's sledge were shared between
Hanssen's and Wisting's. The abandoned sledge was
set upright in the snow, and proved to be a splendid
mark. The sledge-meter was screwed to the sledge,
and we left it there ; our other two were quite sufficient
for the return journey; they had all shown themselves
very accurate. A couple of empty provision cases were
130 AT THE POLE
also left behind. I wrote in pencil on a piece of case
the information that our tent — " Polheim " — would be
found five and a half geographical miles north-west
quarter west by compass from the sledge. Having put
all these things in order the same day, we turned in,
very well satisfied.
Early next morning, December 16, we were on our
feet again. Bjaaland, who had now left the company
of the drivers and been received with jubilation into
that of the forerunners, was immediately entrusted with
the honourable task of leading the expedition forward
to the Pole itself. I assigned this duty, which we all
regarded as a distinction, to him as a mark of gratitude
to the gallant Telemarkers for their pre-eminent work
in the advancement of ski sport. The leader that day
had to keep as straight as a line, and if possible to follow
the direction of our meridian. A little way after
Bjaaland came Hassel,then Hanssen, then Wisting,and
I followed a good way behind. I could thus check the
direction of the march very accurately, and see that no
great deviation was made. Bjaaland on this occasion
showed himself a matchless forerunner; he went per-
fectly straight the whole time. Not once did he incline
to one side or the other, and when we arrived at the
end of the distance, we could still clearly see the sledge
we had set up and take its bearing. This showed it to
be absolutely in the right direction.
It was 11 a.m. when we reached our destination.
1&9
A PAGE FROM THE OBSERVATION BOOK, DECEMBER 17, 1911.
To/acepaye 130, Vol. II.
THE FINAL OBSERVATIONS 131
While some of us were putting up the tent, others
began to get everything ready for the coming observa-
tions. A sohd snow pedestal was put up, on which the
artificial horizon was to be placed, and a smaller one
to rest the sextant on when it was not in use. At
11.30 a.m. the first observation was taken. We divided
ourselves into two parties — Hanssen and I in one, Hassel
and Wisting in the other. While one party slept, the
other took the observations, and the watches were of six
hours each. The weather was altogether grand, though
the sky was not perfectly bright the whole time. A
very light, fine, vaporous curtain would spread across
the sky from time to time, and then quickly disappear
again. This film of cloud was not thick enough to hide
the sun, which we could see the whole time, but the
atmosphere seemed to be disturbed. The effect of this
was that the sun appeared not to change its altitude for
several hours, until it suddenly made a jump.
Observations were now taken every hour through the
whole twenty-four. It was very strange to turn in at
6 p.m., and then on turning out again at midnight to
find the sun apparently still at the same altitude, and
then once more at 6 a.m. to see it still no higher. The
altitude had changed, of course, but so slightly that it
was imperceptible with the naked eye. To us it ap-
peared as though the sun made the circuit of the heavens
at exactly the same altitude. The times of day that I
have given here are calculated according to the meridian
132 AT THE POLE
of Framlieim; we continued to reckon our time from
this. The observations soon told us that we were not
on the absolute Pole, but as close to it as we could hope
to get with our instruments. The observations, which
have been submitted to Mr. Anton Alexander, will be
published, and the result given later in this book.
On December 17 at noon we had completed our
observations, and it is certain that we had done all that
could be done. In order if possible to come a few inches
nearer to the actual Pole, Hanssen and Bjaaland went
out four geographical miles (seven kilometres) in the
direction of the newly found meridian.
Bjaaland astonished me at dinner that day. Speeches
had not hitherto been a feature of this journey, but now
Bjaaland evidently thought the time had come, and sur-
prised us all with a really fine oration. My amazement
reached its cuhnination when, at the conclusion of his
speech, he produced a cigar-case full of cigars and offered
it round. A cigar at the Pole! What do you say to
that ? But it did not end there. When the cigars had
gone round, there were still four left. I was quite
touclied when he handed the case and cigars to me with
the words: " Keep this to remind you of the Pole." I
have taken good care of the case, and shall preserve it
as one of the many happy signs of my comi'ades' devo-
tion on this journey. The cigars I shared out after-
wards, on Christmas Eve, and they gave us a visible
mark of that occasion.
MESSAGES AT POLHEIM 133
When this festival dinner at the Pole was ended, we
began our preparations for departure. First we set up
the little tent we had brought with us in case we should
be compelled to divide into two parties. It had been
made by our able sailmaker, Ronne, and was of very
thin windproof gabardine. Its drab colour made it
easily visible against the white surface. Another pole
was lashed to the tent-pole, making its total height
about 13 feet. On the top of this a little Norwegian
flag was lashed fast, and underneath it a pennant, on
which " Fram " was painted. The tent was well secured
with guy-ropes on all sides. Inside the tent, in a little
bag, I left a letter, addressed to H.M. the King, giving
information of what he had . accomplished. The way
home was a long one, and so many things might happen
to make it impossible for us to give an account of our
expedition. Besides this letter, I wrote a short epistle
to Captain Scott, who, I assumed, would be the first to
find the tent. Other things we left there were a sextant
with a glass horizon, a hypsometer case, three reindeer-
skin foot-bags, some kamiks and mits.
When everything had been laid inside, we went into
the tent, one by one, to write our names on a tablet we
had fastened to the tent-pole. On this occasion we
received the congratulations of our companions on the
successful result, for the following messages were written
on a couple of strips of leather, sewed to the tent:
" Good luck," and " Welcome to 90°." These good
134 AT THE POLE
wishes, which we suddenly discovered, put us in very
good spirits. They were signed by Beck and Ronne.
They had good faith in us. When we had finished this
we came out, and the tent-door was securely laced
together, so that there was no danger of the wind getting
a hold on that side.
And so good-bye to Polheim. It was a solemn
moment when we bared our heads and bade farew^ell to
our home and our flag. And then the travelling tent
was taken down and the sledges packed. Now the
homeward journey was to begin — homeward, step by
step, mile after mile, until the w^hole distance was
accomplished. We drove at once into our old tracks
and followed them. Many were the times we turned to
send a last look to Polheim. The vaporous, white air
set in again, and it was not long before the last of
Polheim, our little flag, disappeared from view.
^
a
m
S
H
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Q
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a
E-i
P
O
EH
<1
If^l^
CHAPTER XIII
THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
The going was splendid and all were in good spirits, so
we went along at a great pace. One would almost have
thought the dogs knew they were homeward bound.
A mild, summer-like wind, with a temperature of
-22° F., was our last greeting from the Pole.
When we came to our last camp, where the sledge
was left, we stopped and took a few things with us.
From this point we came into the line of beacons.
Our tracks had already become very indistinct, but,
thanks to his excellent sight, Bjaaland kept in them quite
well. The beacons, however, served their purpose so
satisfactorily that the tracks were almost superfluous.
Although these beacons were not more than about
3 feet high, they were extremely conspicuous on the
level surface. When the sun was on them, they shone
like electric lighthouses; and when the sun was on the
other side, they looked so dark in the shadow that one
would have taken them for black rocks. We intended
in future to travel at night ; the advantages of this were
many and great. In the first place, we should have the
135
136 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
sun behind us, which meant a good deal to our eyes.
Going against the sun on a snow surface like this tells fear-
fully on the eyes, even if one has good snow-goggles ; but
with the sun at one's back it is only play. Another great
advantage — which we did not reap till later — was that it
gave us the warmest part of the twenty-four hours in
the tent, during which time we had an opportunity of
drying wet clothes, and so on. This last advantage was,
however, a doubtful one, as we shall see in due course.
It was a great comfort to turn our backs to the south.
The wind, which had nearly always been in this quarter,
had often been very painful to our cracked faces; now
we should always have it at our backs, and it would
help us on our way, besides giving our faces time to
heal. Another thing we were longing for was to come
down to the Barrier again, so that we could breathe
freely. Up here we were seldom able to draw a good
long breath ; if we only had to say " Yes," we had to
do it in two instalments. The asthmatic condition in
which we found ourselves during our six wrecks' stay on
the plateau was anything but pleasant. We had fixed
fifteen geographical miles (seventeen and three-eighths
statute miles) as a suitable day's march on the homeward
journey. We had, of course, many advantages now as
compared with the southward journey, which, would
have enabled us to do longer marches than this ; but we
were afraid of overworking the dogs, and possibly using
them up before we had gone very far, if we attempted
LASSE'S FATE 137
too great a distance daily. It soon proved, however,
that we had underestimated our dogs' powers; it only
took us five hours to cover the appointed distance, and
our rest was therefore a long one.
On December 19 we killed the first dog on the home-
ward trip. This was Lasse, my own favourite dog.
He had worn himself out completely, and was no longer
worth anything. He was divided into fifteen portions,
as nearly equal as possible, and given to his companions.
They had now learnt to set great store by fresh meat,
and it is certain that the extra feeds, like this one, that
took place from time to time on the way home, had no
small share in the remarkably successful result. They
seemed to benefit by these meals of fresh meat for several
days afterwards, and worked much more easily.
December 20 began with bitter weather, a breeze
from the south-east, grey and thick. We lost the trail,
and for some time had to go by compass. But as usual
it suddenly cleared, and once more the plain lay before
us, light and warm. Yes, too warm it was. We had
to take off everything — nearly — and still the sweat
poured off us. It was not for long that we were
uncertain of the way: our excellent beacons did us
brilliant service, and one after another they came up on
the horizon, flashed and shone, and drew us on to our
all-important depot in 88° 25' S. We were now going
slightly uphill, but so slightly that it was unnoticeable.
The hypsometer and barometer, however, were not to be
VOL. II. 35
138 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
deceived, and both fell in precisely the same degree as
they had risen before. Even if we had not exactly
noticed the rise, the feeling of it was present. It may
perhajis be called imagination, but I certainly thought I
could notice the rise by my breathing.
Our appetite had increased alarmingly during the last
few days. It appeared that we ski-runners evinced a
far greater voracity than the drivers. There were days
— only a few days, be it said — when I believe any of
us three — Bjaaland, Hassel, and myself — would have
swallowed pebbles without winking. The drivers never
showed such signs of starvation. It has occurred to me
that this may possibly have been due to their being able
to lean on the sledges as they went along, and thus
have a rest and support which we had to do without.
It seems little enough simply to rest one's hand on a
sledge on the march, but in the long run, day after day,
it may perhaps make itself felt. Fortunately we were
so well supplied that when this sensation of hunger
came over us, we could increase our daily rations. On
leaving the Pole we added to our pemmican ration,
with the result that our wild-beast appetites soon gave
way and shrank to an ordinary good, everyday twist.
Our daily programme on entering upon the return
journey was so arranged that we began to get breakfast
ready at 6 p.m., and by 8 p.m. we were usually quite
ready to start the day's march. An hour or so after
midnight the fifteen geographical miles were accom-
PER BREAKS DOWN 139
plished, and we could once more put up our tent, cook
our food, and seek our rest. But this rest soon became
so insufferably long. And then there was the fearful
heat — considering the circumstances — which often made
us get out of our sleeping-bags and lie with nothing
over us. These rests of twelve, fourteen, sometimes
as much as sixteen hours, were what most tried our
patience during the early part of the return journey.
We could see so well that all this rest was unnecessary,
but still we kept it up as long as we were on the high
ground. Our conversation at this time used to turn
very often on the best way of filKng up these long,
unnecessary waits.
That day — December 20 — Per — good, faithful, con-
scientious Per — broke down utterly and had to be taken
on the sledge the last part of the way. On arrival at
the camping-ground he had his reward. A httle blow
of the back of the axe was enough for him; without
making a sound the worn-out animal collapsed. In
liim Wisting lost one of his best dogs. He was a
curious animal — always went about quietly and peace-
ably, and never took part in the others' battles; from
his looks and behaviour one would have judged him,
quite mistakenly, to be a queer sort of beast who was
good for nothing. But when he was in harness he
showed what he could do. Without needing any
shouts or cuts of the whip, he put himself into it from
morning to night, and was priceless as a draught dog.
140 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
But, like others of the same character, he could not keep
it going any longer; he collapsed, was killed and eaten.
Christmas Eve was rapidly approaching. For us it
could not be particularly festive, but we should have to
try to make as much of it as circumstances would
permit. We ought, therefore, to reach our depot that
evening, so as to keep Christmas with a dish of porridge.
The night before Christmas Eve we slaughtered Svart-
flekken. There was no mourning on this occasion:
Svartflekken was one of Hassel's dogs, and had always
been a reprobate. I find the following in my diary,
written the same evening: " Slaughtered Svartflekken
this evening. He would not do any more, although
there was not much wrong with his looks. Bad
character. If a man, he would have ended in penal
servitude." He was comparatively fat, and was con-
sumed with evident satisfaction.
Christmas Eve came ; the weather was rather change-
able— now overcast, now clear — when we set out at
8 p.m. the night before. We had not far to go before
reaching our depot. At 12 midnight we arrived there
in the most glorious weather, cahn and warm. Now
we had the whole of Christmas Eve before us, and could
enjoy it at our ease. Our depot was at once taken
down and divided between the two sledges. All
crumbs of biscuit were carefully collected by Wisting,
the cook for the day, and put into a bag. This w^as
taken into the tent and vigorously beaten and kneaded ;
CHRISTMAS EVE 141
the result was pulverized biscuit. With this product
and a sausage of dried milk, Wisting succeeded in
making a capital dish of Christmas porridge. I doubt
whether anyone at home enjoyed his Christmas dinner
so much as we did that morning in the tent. One of
Bjaaland's cigars to follow brought a festival spirit over
the whole camp.
Another thing we had to rejoice about that day was
that we had again reached the summit of the plateau,
and after two or three more days' march would begin to
go downhill, finally reaching the Barrier and our old
haunts. Our daily march had hitherto been interrupted
by one or two halts; we stopped to rest both the dogs
and ourselves. On Christmas Eve we instituted a new
order of things, and did the whole distance — fifteen
geographical miles — without a stop. We liked this
arrangement best, after all, and it seemed as if the
dogs did the same. As a rule it was hard to begin the
march again after the rest; one got rather stiff — lazy,
too, perhaps — and had to become supple again.
On the 26th we passed 88° S., going well. The
surface appeared to have been exposed to powerful
sunshine since we left it, as it had become quite
polished. Going over these polished levels was like
crossing smooth ice, but with the important difference
that here the dogs had a. good foothold. This time we
sighted high land even in 88°, and it had great surprises
in store for us. It was clear that this was the same
142 THE RETURN TO FRA3IHEIM
mighty range running to the south-east as we had seen
before, but this time it stretched considerably farther to
the south. The weather was radiantly clear, and we
could see by the land that the range of vision was very
great. Summit after summit the range extended to
the south-east, until it gradually disappeared; but to
judge from the atmosphere, it was continued beyond
our range of vision in the same direction. That this
chain traverses the Antarctic continent I therefore
consider beyond a doubt. Here we had a very good
example of how deceptive the atmosphere is in these
regions. On a day that appeared perfectly clear we
had lost sight of the mountains in 87°, and now we saw
them as far as the eye could reach in 88°. That we were
astonished is a mild expression. We looked and looked,
entirely unable to recognize our position; little did we
guess that the huge mountain-mass that stood up so
high and clear on the horizon was ]Mount Thorvald
Nilsen. How utterly different it had looked in the
mistj^ air when we said good-bye to it. It is amusing
to read my diary of this time and see how persistently
we took the bearings of land every day, and thought it
was new. We did not recognize that vast mountain
until Mount Helmer Hanssen began to stick up out of
the plain.
On December 28 we left the summit of the plateau,
and began the descent. Although the incline was not
perceptible to the naked eye, its effect could easily be
GOING WELL 143
seen in the dogs. Wisting now used a sail on his
sledge, and was thus able to keep up with Hanssen. If
anyone had seen the procession that came marching
over the plateau at that time, he would hardly have
thought we had been out for seventy days at a stretch,
for we came at a swinging pace. We always had the
wind at our backs, with sunshine and warmth the whole
time. There was never a thought of using the whip
now; the dogs were bursting with health, and tugged
at their harness to get away. It was a hard time for
our worthy forerunner; he often had to spurt as much
as he could to keep clear of Hanssen's dogs. Wisting
in full sail, with his dogs howling for joy, came close
behind. Hassel had his work cut out to follow, and,
indeed, I had the same. The surface was absolutely
polished, and for long stretches at a time we could push
ourselves along with our sticks. The dogs were com-
pletely changed since we had left the Pole; strange as
it may sound, it is nevertheless true that they were
putting on flesh day by day, and getting quite fat.
I believe it must have been feeding them on fresh
meat and pemmican together that did this. We were
again able to increase our ration of pemmican from
December 28; the daily ration was 1 pound
(450 grams) per man, and we could not manage more
— at least, I think not.
On December 29 we went downhiU more and more,
and it was indeed tough work being a ski-runirer. The
144 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
drivers stood so jauntily by the side of their sledges,
letting themselves be carried over the plain at a
phenomenal pace. The surface consisted of sastrugi,
alternating with smooth stretches like ice. Heaven
help me, how we ski-runners had to struggle to keep
up! It was all very well for Bjaaland; he had flown
faster on even worse ground. But for Hassel and me
it was different. I saw Hassel put out, now an arm,
now a leg, and make the most desperate efforts to keep
on his feet. Fortunately I could not see myself; if I
had been able to, I am sure I should have been in fits
of laughter. Early that day Mount Helmer Hanssen
appeared. The ground now went in great undulations
— a thing we had not noticed in the mist when we were
going south. So high were these undulations that they
suddenly hid the view from us. The first we saw of
Mount Hanssen was from the top of one of these big
waves; it then looked like the top of a pressure hum-
mock that was just sticking up above the surface. At
first we did not understand at all what it was; it was
not till the next day that we really grasped it, when
the pointed blocks of ice covering the top of the
mountain came into view. As I have said, it was
only then that we made sure of being on the right
course; all the rest of the land that we saw was so
entirely strange to us. We recognized absolutely
nothing.
On the 30th we passed 87° S., and were thus rapidly
ON THE DEVIL'S GLACIER 145
nearing the Devil's Ballroom and Glacier. The next
day was brilliantly fine — temperature - 2'2° F. — with
a good breeze right aft. To our great joy, we got sight
of the land aroimd the Butcher's Shop. It was still a
long way off, of course, but was miraged up in the
warm, sunny air. We were extraordinarily lucky on
our homeward trip; we escaped the Devil's Ballroom
altogether.
On January 1 we ought, according to our reckoning,
to reach the Devil's Glacier, and this held good. We
could see it at a great distance; huge hummocks and
ice-waves towered into the sky. But what astonished
us was that between these disturbances and on the far
side of them, we seemed to see an even, unbroken plain,
entirely unaffected by the broken surface. Mounts
Hassel, Wisting, and Bjaaland, lay as we had left them;
they were easy to recognize when we came a little
nearer to them. Now Mount Helmer Hanssen again
towered high into the air; it flashed and sparkled like
diamonds as it lay bathed in the rays of the morning
sun. We assumed that we had come nearer to this range
than when we were going south, and that this was the
reason of our finding the ground so changed. When
we were going south, it certainly looked impassable
between us and the mountains; but who could tell?
Perhaps in the middle of all the broken ground that
we then saw there was a good even stretch, and that we
had now been lucky enough to stumble upon it. But it
146 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
was once more the atmosphere that deceived us, as we
found out on the following day, for instead of being
nearer the range we had come farther out from it, and
this was the reason of our only getting a little strip of
this undesirable glacier.
We had our camp that evening in the middle of a
big, filled-up crevasse. We were a trifle anxious as to
what kind of surface we should find farther on; that
these few hummocks and old crevasses were all the
glacier had to offer us this time, was more than we
dared to hope. But the 2nd came, and brought —
thank God! — no disappointment. With incredible luck
we had slipped past all those ugly and dangerous places,
and now, before we knew where we were, we found
ourselves safe and sound on the plain below the glacier.
The weather was not first-rate when we started at seven
in the evening. It was fairly thick, and we could only
just distinguish the top of Mount Bjaaland. This was
bad, as we were now in the neighbourhood of our depot,
and would have liked clear weather to find out where
it lay; but instead of clearing, as we hoped, it grew
thicker and thicker, and when we had gone about six
and three-quarter miles, it was so bad that we thought
it best to stop and wait for a while. We had all the
time been going on the erroneous assumption that we had
come too far to the east — that is, too near the mountains
— and under the circumstances — in the short gleams that
had come from time to time — we had not been able to
A DEPOT MISSED 147
recognize the ground below the glacier. According to
our idea, we were on the east of the depot. The
bearings, which had been taken in thick air, and were
now to guide us in this heavy mist, gave no result
whatever. There was no depot to be seen.
We had just swallowed the grateful warm pemmican
when the sun suddenly showed itself. I don't think
the camp was ever broken and the sledges packed in
such a short time. From the moment we jumped out
of our bags till the sledges were ready, it only took us
fifteen minutes, which is incredibly quick. " What on
earth is that shining over there through the fog?" The
question came from one of the lads. The mist had
divided, and was rolling away on both sides; in the
western bank something big and white peeped through
— a long ridge running north and south. Hurrah! it's
Helland Hansen. Can't possibly be anything else.
Our only landmark on the west. We all shouted with
joy on meeting this old acquaintance. But in the
direction of the depot the fog hung thick. We held
a brief consultation, and agreed to let it go, to steer for
the Butcher's and put on the pace. We had food enough,
anyhow. No sooner said than done, and we started off.
It rapidly cleared, and then, on our way towards Helland
Hansen, we found out that we had come, not too far to
the east, but too far to the west. But to turn round
and begin to search for our depot was not to our liking.
Below Mount Helland Hansen we came up on a fairly
148 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
high ridge. We had now gone our fixed distance, and
so halted.
Behind us, in the brightest, clearest weather, lay the
glacier, as we had seen it for the first time on our way
to the south: break after break, crevasse after crevasse.
But in among all this nastiness there ran a white, un-
broken line, the very path we had stood and looked at
a few weeks back. And directly below that white stripe
we knew, as sure as anything could be, that our depot
lay. We stood there expressing our annoyance rather
forcibly at the depot having escaped us so easily, and
talking of how jolly it would have been to have picked
up all our depots from the plain we had strewed them
over. Dead tired as I felt that evening, I had not the
least desire to go back the fifteen miles that separated
us from it. " If anybody would like to make the trip,
he shall have many thanks." They all wanted to make
it — all as one man. There was no lack of volunteers in
that company. I chose Hanssen and Bjaaland. They
took nearly everything off the sledge, and went away
with it empty.
It was then five m the morning. At three in the
afternoon they came back to the tent, Bjaaland running
in front, Hanssen driving the sledge. That was a notable
feat, both for men and dogs. Hanssen, Bjaaland, and
that team had covered about fifty miles that day, at an
average rate of three to three and a half miles an hour.
They had found the depot without much search. Their
THE SUPPLIES RECOVERED 149
greatest difficulty had been in the undulating surface;
for long stretches at a time they were in the hollows
between the waves, which shut in their view entirely.
Ridge succeeded ridge, endlessly. We had taken care
that everytliing was ready for their return — above all
great quantities of water. Water, water was the first
thing, and generally the last, that was in request. When
their thirst was a little quenched, great interest was
shown in the pemmican. While these two were being
well looked after, the depot they had brought in was
divided between the two sledges, and in a short time all
was ready for our departure. Meanwhile, the weather
had been getting finer and finer, and before us lay the
mountains, sharp and clear. We thought we recognized
Fridtjof Nansen and Don Pedro Christophersen, and
took good bearings of them in case the fog should
return. With most of us the ideas of day and night
began to get rather mixed. " Six o'clock," someone
would answer, when asked the time. " Yes, in the
morning," remarks the other. "No; what are you
talking about?" answers the first one again; " it's even-
ing, of course." The date was hopeless; it was a good
thing if we remembered the year. Only when writing
in our diaries and observation books did we come across
such things as dates; while at work we had not the
remotest idea of them.
Splendid weather it was when we turned out on the
morning of January 3. We had now agreed to go as
150 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
it suited us, and take no notice of day or night; for
some time past we had all been sick of the long hours
of rest, and wanted to break them up at any price. As
I have said, the weather could not have been finer:
brilliantly clear and a dead calm. The temperature
of - 2'2° F. felt altogether like summer in this bright,
still air. Before we began our march all unnecessary
clothes were taken off and put on the sledges. It
almost looked as if everything would be considered
superfluous, and the costume in which we finally started
would no doubt have been regarded as somewhat un-
seemly in our latitudes. We smiled and congratulated
ourselves that at present no ladies had reached the
Antarctic regions, or they might have objected to our
extremely comfortable and serviceable costume. The
high land now stood out still more sharply. It was very
interesting to see in these conditions the country we
had gone through on the southward trip in the thickest
blizzard. We had" then been going along the foot of
this immense mountain chain without a suspicion of
how near we were to it, or how colossal it was. The
ground was fortunately quite undisturbed in this part.
I say fortunately, as Heaven knows what would have
happened to us if we had been obliged to cross a crevassed
surface in such weather as we then had. Perhaps we
should liave managed it — perhaps not.
The journey before us was a stiff' one, as the Butcher's
lay 2,680 feet higher than the place where we were.
SEARCH FOR THE BUTCHER'S 151
We had been expecting to stumble upon one of our
beacons before long, but this did not happen until we
had gone twelve and a half miles. Then one of them
suddenly came in sight, and was greeted with joy. We
knew well enough that we were on the right track, but
an old acquaintance like this was very welcome all the
same. The sun had evidently been at work up here
while we were in the south, as some of the beacons
were quite bent over, and great icicles told us clearly
enough how powerful the sunshine had been. After
a march of about twenty-five miles we halted at the
beacon we had built right under the hill, where we had
been forced to stop by thick weather on November 25.
January 4 was one of the days to which we looked
forward with anxiety, as we were then due at our depot
at the Butcher's, and had to find it. This depot, which
consisted of the finest, fresh dogs' flesh, was of immense
importance to us. Not only had our animals got into
the way of preferring this food to pemmican, but, what
was of still greater importance, it had an extremely
good effect on the dogs' state of health. No doubt our
pemmican was good enough — indeed, it could not have
been better — but a variation of diet is a great considera-
tion, and seems, according to my experience, to mean
even more to the dogs than to the men on a long journey
like this. On former occasions I have seen dogs refuse
pemmican, presumably because they were tired of it,
having no variety; the result was that the dogs grew
152 THE RETURN TO FRAJVIHEIM
thin and weak, although we had food enough. The
pemmican I am referring to on that occasion was made
for human use, so that their distaste cannot have been
due to the quality.
It was 1.15 a.m. when we set out. We had not had
a long sleep, but it was very important to avail ourselves
of this fine, clear weather while it lasted; we knew by
experience that up here in the neighbourhood of the
Butcher's the weather was not to be depended upon.
From the outward journey we knew that the distance
from the beacon where our camp was to the depot at the
Butcher's was thirteen and a half miles. We had not
put up more than two beacons on this stretch, but the
ground was of such a nature that we thought we could
not go wrong. That it was not so easy to find the way,
in spite of the beacons, we were soon to discover. In
the fine, clear weather, and with Hanssen's sharp eyes,
we picked up both our beacons. JNIeanwhile we were
astonished at the appearance of the mountains. As
I have already mentioned, we thought the weather was
perfectly clear when we reached the Butcher's for the
first time, on November 20. I then took a bearing
from the tent of the way we had come up on to the
plateau between the mountains, and carefully recorded
it. After passing our last beacon, when we were
beginning to approach the Butcher's — as we reckoned —
we were greatly surprised at the aspect of our surround-
ings. Last time — on November 20 — we had seen
THE BROKEN SKI 153
mountains on the west and north, but a long way off.
Now the whole of that part of the horizon seemed to be
filled with colossal mountain masses, which were right
over us. What in the world was the meaning of this?
Was it witchcraft? I am sure I began to think so for
a moment. I would readily have taken my most solemn
oath that I had never seen that landscape before in my
life. We had now gone the full distance, and according
to the beacons we had passed, we ought to be on the
spot. This was very strange; in the direction in which
I had taken the bearing of our ascent, we now only saw
the side of a perfectly unknown mountain, sticking up
from the plain. There could be absolutely no way down
in that precipitous wall. Only on the north-west did
the ground give the impression of allowing a descent;
there a natural depression seemed to be formed, running
down towards the Barrier, which we could see far, far
away.
We halted and discussed the situation. "Hullo!"
Hanssen suddenly exclaimed, "somebody has been
here before."—" Yes," broke in Wisting; " I'm hanged
if that isn't my broken ski that I stuck up by the depot."
So it was Wisting's broken ski that brought us out
of this unpleasant situation. It was a good thing he
put it there— very thoughtful, in any case. I now
examined the place with the glasses, and by the side of
a snow mound, which proved to be our depot, but
might easily have escaped our notice, we could see the
VOL. 11. 3g
154 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
ski sticking up out of the snow. We cheerfully set our
course for the spot, but did not reach it until we had
gone three miles.
There was rejoicing in our little band when we arrived
and saw that what we had considered the most important
point of our homeward journey had been reached. It
was not so much for the sake of the food it contained
that we considered it so necessary to find this spot, as
for discovering the way down to the Barrier again. And
now that we stood there, we recognized this necessity
more than ever. For although we now knew, from our
bearings, exactly where the descent lay, we could see
nothing of it at all. The plateau there seemed to go
right up to the mountain, without any opening towards
the lower ground beyond; and yet the compass told us
that such an opening must exist, and would take us
down. The mountain, on which we had thus walked
all day on the outward journey, without knowing any-
thing of it, was Mount Fridtjof Nansen. Yes, the
difference in the light made a surprising alteration in
the appearance of things.
The first thing we did on reaching the depot was
to take out the dogs' carcasses that lay there and cut
them into big lumps, that were divided among the dogs.
They looked rather surprised; they had not been
accustomed to such rations. We threw three carcasses
on to the sledges, so as to have a little extra food for
them on the way down. The Butcher's was not a very
A FAMILIAR VIEW 155
friendly spot this time, either. True, it was not the
same awful weather as on our first visit, but it was
blowing a fresh breeze with a temperature of - 9"4° F.,
which, after the heat of the last few days, seemed
to go to one's marrow, and did not invite us to
stay longer than was absolutely necessary. Therefore,
as soon as we had finished feeding the dogs and putting
our sledges in order, we set out.
Although the ground had not given us the impression
of sloping, we soon found out that it did so when we got
under way. It was not only downhill, but the pace
became so great that we had to stop and put brakes
under the sledges. As we advanced, the apparently
unbroken wall opened more and more, and showed us at
last our old familiar ascent. There lay Mount Ole
Engelstad, snowclad and cold, as we saw it the first
time. As we rounded it we came on to the severe,
steep slope, where, on the way south, I had so much
admired the work done by my companions and the dogs
that day. But now I had an even better opportunity of
seeing how steep this ascent really had been. Many were
the brakes we had to put on before we could reduce
the speed to a moderate pace, but even so we came
down rapidly, and soon the first part of the descent
lay behind us. So as not to be exposed to possible
gusts from the plain, we went round Mount Engelstad
and camped under the lee of it, well content with the
day's work. The snow lay here as on our first visit, deep
156 THE KETURX TO FRAMHEIM
and loose, and it was difficult to find anything like
a good place for the tent. We could soon feel that we
had descended a couple of thousand feet and come down
among the mountains. It was still, absolutely still, and
the sun broiled us as on a day of high summer at home.
I thought, too, that I could notice a difference in my
breathing; it seemed to work much more easily and
pleasantly — perhaps it was only imagination.
At one o'clock on the following morning we were out
again. The sight that met our eyes that morning, when
we came out of the tent, was one of those that will
always live in our memories. The tent stood in the
narrow gap between Fridtj of Nansen andOleEngelstad.
The sun, which now stood in the south, was completely
hidden by the latter mountain, and our camp was thus
in the deepest shadow ; but right against us on the other
side the Nansen mountain raised its splendid ice-clad
summit high towards heaven, gleaming and sparkling in
the rays of the midnight sun. The shining white passed
gradually, very gradually, into pale blue, then deeper
and deeper blue, until the shadow swallowed it up.
But down below, right on the Heiberg Glacier, its ice-
covered side was exposed — dark and solemn the moun-
tain mass stood out. Mount Engelstad lay in shadow,
but on its summit rested a beautiful light little cirrus
cloud, red with an edge of gold. Down over its side
the blocks of ice lay scattered pell-mell. And farther
down on the east rose Don Pedro Christophersen, partly
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ON THE HEIBERG GLACIER 157
in shadow, partly gleaming in the sun — a marvellously
beautiful sight. And all was so still; one almost feared
to disturb the incomparable splendour of the scene.
We now knew the ground well enough to be able to go
straight ahead without any detours. The huge avalanches
were more frequent than on the outward journey. One
mass of snow after another plunged down; Don Pedro
was getting rid of his winter coat. The going was
precisely the same — loose, fairly deep snow. We went
quite easily over it, however, and it was all downhill.
On the ridge where the descent to the glacier began
we halted to make our preparations. Brakes were put
under the sledges, and our two ski-sticks were fastened
together to make one strong one; we should have to
be able to stop instantly if surprised by a crevasse as we
were going. We ski-i*unners went in front. The going
was ideal here on the steep slope, just enough loose
snow to give one good steering on ski. We went
whizzing down, and it was not many minutes before we
were on the Heiberg Glacier. For the drivers it was
not quite such plain sailing: they followed our tracks,
but had to be extremely careful on the steep fall.
We camped that evening on the selfsame spot where
we had had our tent on November 18, at about 3,100 feet
above the sea. From here one could see the course of
the Axel Heiberg Glacier right down to its junction
with the Barrier. It looked fine and even, and we
decided to follow it instead of climbing over the moun-
158 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
tain, as we had done on the way south. Perhaps the
distance would be somewhat longer, but probably we
should make a considerable saving of time. We had
now agreed upon a new arrangement of our time; the
long spells of rest were becoming almost unbearable.
Another very important side of the question was that,
by a reasonable arrangement, we should be able to save
a lot of time, and reach home several days sooner than
we had reckoned. After a great deal of talk on one
side and on the other, we agreed to arrange matters
thus: we were to do our fifteen geographical miles, or
twenty-eight kilometres, and then have a sleep of six
hours, turn out again and do fifteen miles more, and so
on. In this way we should accomplish a very good
average distance on our day's march. We kept to this
arrangement for the rest of the journey, and thus saved
a good many days.
Our progress down the Heiberg Glacier did not
encounter any obstructions; only at the transition from
the glacier to the Barrier were there a few crevasses
that had to be circumvented. At 7 a.m. on January 6
we halted at the angle of land that forms the entrance
to the Heiberg Glacier, and thence extends northward.
We had not yet recognized any of the land we lay
under, but that was quite natural, as we now saw it
from the opposite side. We knew, though, that we
were not far away from our main depot in 85° 5' S.
On the afternoon of the same day we were off again.
AT THE MAIN DEPOT 159
From a little ridge we crossed immediately after start-
ing, Bjaaland thought he could see the depot down on
the Barrier, and it was not very long before we came in
sight of Mount Betty and our way up. And now we
could make sure with the glasses that it really was our
depot that we saw — the same that Bjaaland thought he
had seen before. We therefore set our course straight
for it, and in a few minutes we were once more on the
Barrier — January 6, 11 p.m. — after a stay of fifty-one
days on land. It was on November 17 that we had
begun the ascent.
We reached the depot, and found everything in
order. The heat here must have been very powerful;
our lofty, solid depot was melted by the sun into a
rather low mound of snow. The pemmican rations
that had been exposed to the direct action of the sun's
rays had assumed the strangest forms, and, of course,
they had become rancid. We got the sledges ready at
once, taking all the provisions out of the depot and
loading them. We left behind some of the old clothes
we had been wearing all the way from here to the Pole
and back. When we had completed all this repacking
and had everything ready, two of us went over to
Mount Betty, and collected as many different speci-
mens of rock as we could lay our hands on. At the
same time we built a great cairn, and left there a can
of 17 litres of paraffin, two packets of matches — contain-
ing twenty boxes — and an account of our expedition.
160 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
Possibly someone may find a use for these things in the
future.
We had to kill Frith j of, one of Bjaaland's dogs, at
this camp. He had latterly been showing marked signs
of shortness of breath, and finally this became so pain-
ful to the animal that we decided to put an end to him.
Thus brave Frith j of ended his career. On cutting him
ojien it appeared that his lungs were quite shrivelled
up ; nevertheless, the remains disappeared pretty quickly
into his companions' stomachs. What they had lost
in quantity did not apparently affect their quality.
Nigger, one of Hassel's dogs, had been destroyed on
the way down from the plateau. We thus reached this
point again with twelve dogs, as we had reckoned on
doing, and left it with eleven. I see in my diary the
following remark: " The dogs look just as well as when
we left Framheim." On leaving the place a few hours
later we had provisions for thirty-five days on the
sledges. Besides this, of course, we had a depot at
every degree of latitude up to 80°.
It looked as though we had found our depot at the
right moment, for when we came out to continue our
journey the whole Barrier was in a blizzard. A gale
was blowing from the south, with a sky completely
clouded over; falling snow and drift united in a de-
lightful dance, and made it difficult to see. The lucky
thing was that now we had the wind with us, and thus
escaped getting it all in our eyes, as we had been accus-
ON THE BARRIER AGAIN 161
tomed to. The big crevasse, which, as we knew, lay
right across the line of our route, made us go very care-
fully. To avoid any risk, Bjaaland and Hassel, who
went in advance, fastened an alpine rope between them.
The snow was very deep and loose, and the going very
heavy. Fortunately, we were warned in time of our
approach to the expected cracks by the appearance of
some bare ice ridges. These told us clearly enough
that disturbances had taken place here, and that even
greater ones might be expected, probably near at hand.
At that moment the thick curtain of cloud was torn
asunder, and the sun pierced the whirling mass of snow.
Instantly Hanssen shouted: " Stop, Bjaaland!" He
was just on the edge of the yawning crevasse. Bjaaland
himself has splendid sight, but his excellent snow-
goggles — his own patent — entirely prevented his seeing.
Well, Bjaaland would not have been in any serious
danger if he had fallen into the crevasse, as he was
roped to Hassel, but it would have been confoundedly
unpleasant all the same.
As I have said before, I assume that these great dis-
turbances here mark the boundary between the Barrier
and the land. This time, curiously enough, they seemed
also to form a boundary between good and bad weather,
for on the far side of them — to the north — ^the Barrier
lay bathed in sunshine. On the south the blizzard
raged worse than ever. Mount Betty was the last to
send us its farewell. South Victoria Land had gone
162 THE RETURN TO FRA^IHEIM
into hiding, and did not show itself again. As soon as
we came into the sunshine, we ran upon one of our
beacons; our course lay straight towards it. That was
not bad steering in the dark. At 9 p.m. we reached
the depot in 85° S. Now we could begin to be liberal
with the dogs' food, too; they had double pemmican
rations, besides as many oatmeal biscuits as they would
eat. We had such masses of biscuits now that we
could positively throw them about. Of course, we
might have left a large part of these provisions behind ;
but there was a great satisfaction in being so well sup-
plied with food, and the dogs did not seem to mind the
little extra weight in the least. As long as things went
so capitally as they were going — that is, with men and
dogs exactly keeping pace with one another — we could
ask for nothing better. But the weather that had
cheered us was not of long duration. " Same beastly
w^eather," my diary says of the next stage. The wind
had shifted to the north-west, with overcast, thick
weather, and very troublesome drifting snow. In spite
of these unfavourable conditions, we passed beacon
after beacon, and at the end of our march had picked
up all the beacons we had erected on this distance of
seventeen miles and three-eighths. But, as before, we
owed this to Hanssen's good eyes.
On our way southward we had taken a good deal of
seal meat and had divided it among the depots we built
on the Barrier in such a way that we were now able to
UNPLEASANTLY WARM 163
eat fresh meat every day. This had not been done
without an object; if we should be visited with scurvy,
this fresh meat would be invaluable. As we were —
sound and healthy as we had never been before — the
seal-beef was a pleasant distraction in our menu, nothing
more. The temperature had risen greatly since we
came down on to the Barrier, and kept steady at about
+ 14° F. We were so warm in our sleeping-bags
that we had to turn them with the hair out. That
was better; we breathed more freely and felt happier.
" Just like going into an ice-cellar," somebody remarked.
The same feeling as when on a really warm summer day
one comes out of the hot sun into cool shade.
January 9. — " Same beastly weather; snow, snow,
snow, nothing but snow. Is there no end to it?
Thick too, so that we have not been able to see
ten yards ahead. Temperature +176° F. Thawing
everywhere on the sledges. Everything getting wet.
Have not found a single beacon in this blind man's
weather. The snow was very deep to begin with and
the going exceedingly heavy, but in spite of this the
dogs managed their sledges very well." That evening
the weather improved, fortunately, and became com-
paratively clear by the time we resumed our journey
at 10 p.m. Not long after we sighted one of our
beacons. It lay to the west, about 200 yards away.
We were thus not far out of our course; we turned
aside and went up to it, as it was interesting to see
164 THE RETURN TO FRA^IHEIM
whether our reckoning was in order. The beacon was
somewhat damaged by sunshine and storms, but we
found the paper left in it, which told us that this beacon
was erected on November 14, in 84° 26' S. It also
told us what course to steer by compass to reach the
next beacon, which lay five kilometres from this one.
As we were leaving this old friend and setting our
course as it advised, to our unspeakable astonishment two
great birds — skua gulls — suddenly came flying straight
towards us. They circled round us once or twice and
then settled on the beacon. Can anyone who reads
these lines form an idea of the efi'ect tliis had upon us?
It is hardly likely. They brought us a message from
the living world into this realm of death — a message
of all that was dear to us. I think the same thoughts
filled us all. They did not allow themselves a long
rest, these first messengers from another world; they
sat still a while, no doubt wondering who we were,
then rose aloft and flew on to the south. JSIysterious
creatures! they were now exactly half-way between
Framheim and the Pole, and yet they were going
farther inland. Were they going over to the other
side?
Our march ended this time at one of our beacons,
in 84° 15'. It felt so good and safe to lie beside one of
these; it always gave us a sure starting-point for the
following stage. We were up at 4 a.m. and left the
place a few hours later, with the result that the day's
SKUA GULLS 165
march brought us thirty-four miles nearer Framheim.
With our present arrangement, we had these long-day
marches every other day. Our dogs need no better
testimonial than this — one day seventeen miles, the next
day thirty-four, and fresh all the way home. The two
birds, agreeably as their first appearance had affected
me, led my thoughts after a while in another direction,
which was anything but agreeable. It occurred to me
that these two might only be representatives of a larger
collection of these voracious birds, and that the remainder
might now be occupied in consuming all the fresh meat
we had so laboriously transported with us and spread
all over the plain in our depots. It is incredible what
a flock of these birds of prey can get rid of; it would
not matter if the meat were frozen as hard as iron, they
would have managed it, even if it had been a good deal
harder than iron. Of the seals' carcasses we had lying
in 80°, I saw in my thoughts nothing but the bones.
Of the various dogs we had killed on our way south
and laid on the tops of beacons I did not see even so
much as that. Well, it was possible that my thoughts
had begun to assume too dark a hue ; perhaps the reality
would be brighter.
Weather and going began by degrees to right them-
selves; it looked as if things would improve in propor-
tion to our distance from land. Finally, both became
perfect; the sun shone from a cloudless sky, and the
sledges ran on the fine, even surface with all the ease
166 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
and speed that could be desired. Bjaaland, who had
occupied the position of forerunner all the way from
the Pole, performed his duties admirably; but the old
saying that nobody is perfect applied even to him.
None of us — no matter who it may be — can keep in a
straight line, when he has no marks to follow. All
the more difficult is this when, as so often happened
with us, one has to go blindly. Most of us, I suppose,
would swerve now to one side, now to the other, and
possibly end, after all this groping, by keeping pretty
well to the line. Not so with Bjaaland; he was a
right-hand man. I can see him now; Hanssen has
given him the direction by compass, and Bjaaland
turns round, points his ski in the line indicated and
sets off with decision. His movements clearly show
that he has made up his mind, cost what it may, to
keep in the right direction. He sends his ski firmly
along, so that the snow spurts from them, and looks
straight before him. But the result is the same; if
Hanssen had let Bjaaland go on without any correction,
in the course of an hour or so the latter would probably
liave described a beautiful circle and brought himself
back to the spot from which he had started. Perhaps,
after all, this was not a fault to complain of, since we
always knew with absolute certaintj^ that, when we had
got out of the line of beacons, we were to the right of
it and had to search for the beacons to the west. Tliis
conclusion proved very useful to us more than once,
TRACES OF THE RUNAWAYS 167
and we gradually became so familiar with Bjaaland's
right-handed tendencies that we actually counted on
them.
On January 13, according to our reckoning, we ought
to reach the depot in 83° S. This was the last of our
depots that was not marked at right angles to the route,
and therefore the last critical point. The day was not
altogether suited for finding the needle in the haystack.
It was calm with a thick fog, so thick that we could
only see a few yards in front of us. We did not see
a single beacon on the whole march. At 4 p.m. we
had completed the distance, according to the sledge-
meters, and reckoned that we ought to be in 83° S., by
the depot; but there was nothing to be seen. We
decided, therefore, to set our tent and wait till it
cleared. While we were at work with this, there was
a rift in the thick mass of fog, and there, not many
yards away — to the west, of course — lay our depot.
We quickly took the tent down again, packed it on
the sledge, and drove up to our food mound, which
proved to be quite in order. There was no sign of the
birds having paid it a visit. But what was that? Fresh,
well-marked dog-tracks in the newly-fallen snow. We
soon saw that they must be the tracks of the runaways
that we had lost here on the way south. Judging by
appearances, they must have lain under the lee of the
depot for a considerable time; two deep hollows in the
snow told us that plainly. And evidently they must
168 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
have had enough food, but where on earth had they got
it from? The depot was absolutely untouched, in spite
of the fact that the lumps of pemmican lay exposed to
the light of day and were very easy to get at; besides
which, the snow on the dejjot was not so hard as to
prevent the dogs pulling it down and eating up all the
food. Meanwhile the dogs had left the place again, as
shown by the fresh trail, which pointed to the north.
We examined the tracks very closely, and agreed that
they were not more than two days old. They went
northward, and we followed them from time to time on
our next stage. At the beacon in 82° 45', where we
halted, we saw them still going to the north. In 82° 24'
the trail began to be much confused, and ended by
pointing due west. That was the last we saw of the
tracks; but we had not done with these dogs, or rather
with their deeds. We stopped at the beacon in 82° 20'.
Else, who had been laid on the top of it, had fallen
down and lay by the side; the sun had thawed away
the lower part of the beacon. So the roving dogs had
not been here; so much was certain, for otherwise we
should not have found Else as we did. We camped at
the end of that stage by the beacon in 82° 15', and shared
out Else's body. Although she had been lying in the
strong sunshine, the flesh was quite good, when we had
scraped away a little mouldiness. It smelt rather old,
perhaps, but our dogs were not fastidious when it was
a question of meat.
A PLUNDERED DEPOT 169
On January 16 we arrived at the depot in 82° S. We
could see from a long way off that the order in which
we had left it no longer prevailed. When we came
up to it, we saw at once what had happened. The
innumerable dog-tracks that had trampled the snow
quite hard round the depot declared plainly enough
that the runaways had spent a good deal of time here.
Several of the cases belonging to the depot had fallen
down, presumably from the same cause as Else, and the
rascals had succeeded in breaking into one of them. Of
the biscuits and pemmican which it had contained,
nothing, of course, was left ; but that made no difference
to us now, as we had food in abundance. The two
dogs' carcasses that we had placed on the top of the
depot — Uranus and Jaala — were gone, not even the
teeth were to be seen. Yet they had left the teeth
of Lucy, whom they had eaten in 82° 3'. Jaala's eight
puppies were still lying on the top of a case; curiously
enough, they had not fallen down. In addition to all
the rest, the beasts had devoured some ski-bindings and
things of that sort. It was no loss to us, as it happened ;
but who could tell which way these creatures had gone?
If they had succeeded in finding the depot in 80° S., they
would probably by this time have finished our supply of
seal meat there. Of course it would be regrettable if
this had happened, although it would entail no danger
either to ourselves or our animals. If we got as far
as 80°, we should come through all right. For the time
VOL. II. 37
170 THE RETURN TO FRAJMHEIM
being, we had to console ourselves with the fact that
we could see no continuation of the trail northward.
We permitted ourselves a little feast here in 82°.
The " chocolate pudding " that Wisting served as
dessert is still fresh in my memory; we all agreed
that it came nearer perfection than anything it had
hitherto fallen to our lot to taste. I may disclose the
receipt: biscuit-crumbs, dried milk and chocolate are
put into a kettle of boiling water. What happens after-
wards, I don't know; for further information apply to
Wisting. Between 82° and 81° we came into our old
marks of the second depot journey; on that trip we had
marked this distance with splinters of packing-case at
every geographical mile. That was in March, 1911,
and now we were following these splinters in the second
half of January, 1912. Apparently they stood exactly
as they had been put in. This marldng stopped in
81° 33' S., with two pieces of case on a snow pedestal.
The pedestal was still intact and good.
I shall let my diary describe what we saw on
January 18: "Unusually fine weather to-day. Light
south-south-west breeze, which in the course of our march
cleared the whole sky. In 81° 20' we came abreast of
our old big pressure ridges. We now saw far more
of them tlian ever before. They extended as far as the
eye could see, running north-east to south-west, in ridges
and peaks. Great was our surprise when, a short time
after, we made out high, bare land in the same direction,
CARMEN LAND 171
and not long after that two lofty, white summits to the
south-east, probably in about 82° S. It could be seen
by the look of the sky that the land extended from
north-east to south-west. This must be the same land
that we saw lose itself in the horizon in about 84° S.,
when we stood at a height of about 4,000 feet and
looked out over the Barrier, during our ascent. We
now have sufficient indications to enable us without
hesitation to draw this land as continuous — Carmen
Land. The surface against the land is violently dis-
turbed— crevasses and pressure ridges, waves and valleys,
in all directions. We shall no doubt feel the effect of it
to-morrow." Although what we have seen apparently
justifies us in concluding that Carmen Land extends
from 86° S. to this position — about 81° 30' S.—
and possibly farther to the north-east, I have not
ventured to lay it down thus on the map. I have con-
tented myself with giving the name of Carmen Land to
the land between 86° and 84°, and have called the rest
" Appearance of Land." It will be a profitable task for
an explorer to investigate this district more closely.
As we had expected, on our next stage we were made
to feel the effect of the disturbances. Three times we
had now gone over this stretch of the Barrier without
having really clear weather. This time we had it, and
were able to see what it actually looked like. The
irregularities began in 81° 12' S., and did not extend
very far from north to south — possibly about five kilo-
172 THE RETURN TO FRAINIHEIM
metres (three and a quarter miles). How far they
extended from east to west it is difficult to say, but at
any rate as far as the ej^e could reach. Immense pieces
of the surface had fallen away and opened up the most
horrible yawning gulfs, big enough to swallow many
caravans of the size of ours. From these open holes,
ugly wide cracks ran out in all directions ; besides which,
mounds and haycocks were everjnvhere to be seen.
Perhaps the most remarkable thing of all was that we
had passed over here unharmed. We went across as
light-footedly as possible, and at top speed. Hanssen
went halfway into a crevasse, but luckily got out of it
again without difficulty.
The depot in 81° S. was in perfect order; no dog-
tracks to be seen there. Our hopes that the depot in
80° S. would be intact rose considerably. In 80° 45' S.
lay the first dog we had killed — Bone. He was
particularly'- fat, and was immensely appreciated. The
dogs no longer cared very much for pemmican. On
January 21 we passed our last beacon, which stood in
80° 23' S. Glad as we were to leave it behind, I cannot
deny that it was with a certain feeling of melancholy
that we saw it vanish. We had grown so fond of our
beacons, and whenever we met them we greeted them as
old friends. JNIany and great were the services these
silent watchers did us on our long and lonely way.
On the same day we reached our big depot in 80° S.,
and now we considered that we were back. We could
AT HOME AGAIN 173
see at once that others had been at the depot since we
had left it, and we found a message from Lieutenant
Prestrud, the leader of the eastern party, saying that he,
with Stubberud and Johansen, had passed here on
November 12, with two sledges, sixteen dogs, and
supplies for thirty days. Everything thus appeared to
be in the best of order. Immediately on arriving at the
depot we let the dogs loose, and they made a dash for
the heap of seal's flesh, which had been attacked neither
by birds nor dogs in our absence. It was not so much
for the sake of eating that our dogs made their way to
the meat mound, as for the sake of fighting. Now they
really had something to fight about. They went round
the seals' carcasses a few times, looked askance at the
food and at each other, and then flung themselves into
the wildest scrimmage. When this had been duly
brought to a conclusion, they went away and lay round
their sledges. The depot in 80° S, is still large, well
supplied and well marked, so it is not impossible that it
may be found useful later.
The journey from 80° S. to Framheim has been so
often described that there is nothing new to say about
it. On January 25, at 4 a.m., we reached our good little
house again, with two sledges and eleven dogs; men
and animals all hale and hearty. We stood and waited
for each other outside the door in the early morning;
our appearance must be made all together. It was so
still and quiet — they must be all asleep. We came in.
174 THE RETURN TO FRAMHEIM
Stubberud started up in his bunk and glared at us;
no doubt he took us for ghosts. One after another
they woke up — not grasping what was happening.
Then there was a hearty welcome home on all sides.
" Where's the Fram?" was of course our first question.
Our joy was great when we heard all was well. " And
what about the Pole? Have you been there?" — " Yes,
of course; otherwise you would hardly have seen us
again.'* Then the coffee kettle was put on, and the
perfume of *' hot cakes " rose as in old days. We agreed
that it was good outside, but still better at home.
Ninety-nine days the trip had taken. Distance about
1,860 miles.
The Fram had come in to the Barrier on January 8,
after a three months' voyage from Buenos Aires; all
were well on board. Meanwhile, bad weather had forced
her to put out again. On the following day the look-
out man reported that the Fram was approaching.
There was life in the camp ; on with furs and out with
the dogs. They should see that our dogs were not worn
out yet. We heard the engine panting and grunting,
saw the crow's-nest appear over the edge of the Barrier,
and at last she glided in, sure and steadj''. It was with
a joyful heart I went on board and greeted all these
gallant men, who had brought the Fram to her destina-
tion through so many fatigues and perils, and had
accomplished so much excellent work on the way.
They all looked pleased and happy, but nobody asked
FRAMHEIM, ON THE RETURN OF THE POLAR PARTY.
LINDSTKOM IN THE KITCHEN.
Toface pa(je 174, Vol. II.
ON BOARD THE " FRAM " 175
about the Pole. At last it slipped out of Gjertsen:
" Have you been there?" Joy is a poor name for the
feeling that beamed in my comrades' faces; it was
something more.
I shut myself up in the chart-house with Captain
Nilsen, who gave me my mail and all the news. Three
names stood high above the rest, when I was able to
understand all that had happened — the names of the
three who gave me their support when it was most
needed. I shall always remember them in respectful
gratitude —
H.M. The King,
Professor Fridtjof Nansen,
Don Pedro Christophersen.
CHAPTER XIV
NORTHWAUD
Atter two days of bustle in getting on board the things
we were to take with us, we managed to be ready for
sea on the afternoon of January 30. There could
scarcely have been anything at that moment that
rejoiced us more than just that fact, that we were able
at so early a date to set our course northward and
thus take the first step on the way to that world which,
as we knew, would soon begin to expect news from us,
or of us. And yet, I wonder whether there was not
a little feeling of melancholy in the midst of all our
joy? It can hardly be doubted that such was really
the case, although to many this may seem a fiat con-
tradiction. But it is not altogether so easy to part
from a place that has been one's home for any length
of time, even though this home lie in the 79th degree
of latitude, more or less buried in snow and ice. We
human beings are far too dependent on habit to be
able to tear ourselves abruptly from the surroundings
with which we have been obliged to be familiar for
many months. That outsiders would perhaps pray all
176
FAREWELL TO FRAMHEIM 177
the powers of goodness to preserve them from such
surroundings, does not counteract the full validity of
this rule. To an overwhelming majority of our fellow-
men Framheim will certainly appear as one of those
spots on our planet where they would least of all wish
to find themselves — a God-forsaken, out-of-the-way
hole that could offer nothing but the very climax of
desolation, discomfort, and boredom. To us nine,
who stood on the gangway ready to leave this place,
things appeared somewhat differently. That strong
little house, that now lay entirely hidden beneath
the snow behind Mount Nelson, had for a whole year
been our home, and a thoroughly good and comfortable
home it was, where after so many a hard day's work
we had found all the rest and quiet we wanted. Through
the whole Antarctic winter — and it is a winter — those
four walls had protected us so well that many a poor
wretch in milder latitudes would have envied us with
all his heart, if he could have seen us. In conditions
so hard that every form of life flies headlong from
them, we had lived on at Framheim undisturbed and
untroubled, and lived, be it said, not as animals, but
as civilized human beings, who had always within their
reach most of the good things that are found in a well-
ordered home. Darkness and cold reigned outside,
and the blizzards no doubt did their best to blot out
most traces of our activity, but these enemies never
came within the door of our excellent dwelling; there
178 NORTHWARD
we shared quarters with light and warmth and comfort.
What wonder was it that this spot exercised a strong
attraction upon each of us at the moment when we
were to turn our backs upon it for good? Outside the
great world beckoned to us, that is true; and it might
have much to offer us that we had had to forego for a
long time; but in what awaited us there was certainly
a great deal that we would gladly have put off for as
long as possible. When everyday life came with its
cares and worries, it might well happen that we should
look back with regret to our peaceful and untroubled
existence at Framheim.
However, this feeling of melancholy was hardlj^ so
strong that we could not all get over it comparatively
quickly. Judging by the faces, at any rate, one would
have thought that joy was the most predominant mood.
And why not? It was no use dwelling on the past,
however attractive it might seem just then, and as to
the future, we had every right to expect the best of
it. Who cared to think of coming troubles? No one.
Therefore the Fram was dressed with flags from stem to
stern, and therefore faces beamed at each other as we said
good-bye to our home on the Barrier. We could leave
it with the consciousness that the object of our year's
stay had been attained, and, after all, this consciousness
was of considerably more weight than the thought that
we had been so happy there. One thing that in the
course of our two years' association on this expedition
<
m
o
H
NO TIME TO LOSE 179
contributed enormously to making time pass easily and
keeping each of us in full vigour was the entire absence
of what I may call " dead periods." As soon as one
problem was solved, another instantly appeared. No
sooner was one goal reached, than the next one beckoned
from afar. In this way we always had our hands full,
and when that is the case, as everyone knows, time
flies quickly. One often hears it asked, How is it
possible to make the time pass on such a trip? My
good friends, I would answer, if anything caused us
worry, it was the thought of how we should find time
enough for all we had to do. Perhaps to many this
assertion will bear the stamp of improbability; it is,
nevertheless, absolutely true. Those who have read
this narrative through will, in any case, have received
the impression that unemployment was an evil that was
utterly unknown in our little community.
At the stage where we now found ourselves, with the
main object of our enterprise achieved, there might have
been reason to expect a certain degree of relaxation of
interest. This, however, was not the case. The fact
was that what we had done would have no real value
until it was brought to the knowledge of mankind, and
this conmiunication had to be made with as little loss of
time as possible. If anyone was interested in being first
in the market it was certainly ourselves. The prob-
ability was, no doubt, that we were out in good time;
but, in spite of all, it was only a probability. On the
180 NORTHWARD
other hand, it was absolutely certain that we had a
voyage of 2,400 nautical miles to Hobart, which had
been selected as our first port of call ; and it was almost
equally certain that this voyage would be both slow
and troublesome. A year before our trip through Ross
Sea had turned out almost like a pleasure cruise, but
that was in the middle of summer. Now we were in
February, and autumn was at hand. As regards the
belt of drift-ice. Captain Nilsen thought that would
cause us no delay in future. He had discovered a
patent and infallible way of getting through! This
sounded like a rather bold assertion, but, as will be seen
later, he was as good as his word. Our worst troubles
would be up in the westerhes, where we should this
time be exposed to the unpleasant possibility of having
to beat. The difference in longitude between the Bay
of Whales and Hobart is nearly fifty degrees. If we
could have sailed off this difference in longitude in the
latitudes where we then were, and where a degree of
longitude is only about thirteen nautical miles, it would
all have been done in a twinkling; but the mighty
mountain ranges of North Victoria Land were a
decisive obstacle. We should first have to follow a
northerly course initil we had rounded the Antarctic
Continent's northern outpost. Cape Adare, and the
Balleny Islands to the north of it. Not till then would
the way be open for us to work to the west; but then
we should be in a region where in all probability the
BJAALAND AS TINKER.
DOGS LANDED AT HOBART FOR DR. MAWSON S EXPEDITION.
Tofaceparjc ISO, Vol. II.
THE SURVIVING DOGS 181
wind would be dead against us, and as to tacking with
the Fram — no, thank you ! Every single man on board
knew enough of the conditions to be well aware of what
awaited us, and it is equally certain that the thoughts
of all were centered upon how we might conquer our
coming difficulties in the best and quickest way. It
was the one great, common object that still bound, and
would continue to bind, us all together in our joint
efforts.
Among the items of news that we had just received
from the outer world was the message that the Aus-
trahan Antarctic Expedition under Dr. Douglas
Mawson would be glad to take over some of our dogs,
if we had any to spare. The base of this expedition
was Hobart, and as far as that went, this suited us very
well. It chanced that we were able to do our esteemed
colleague this small service. On leaving the Barrier
we could show a pack of thirty-nine dogs, many
of which had grown up during our year's stay there;
about half had survived the whole trip from Norway,
and eleven had been at the South Pole. It had been
our intention only to keep a suitable number as the
progenitors of a new pack for the approaching voyage
in the Arctic Ocean, but Dr. Mawson's request caused
us to take all the thirty-nine on board. Of these dogs,
if nothing unforeseen happened, we should be able to
make over twenty-one to him. When the last load
was brought down, there was nothing to do but to pull
182 NORTHWARD
the dogs over the side, and then we were ready. It
was quite curious to see how several of the old veterans
seemed at home again on the F ram's deck. Wisting's
brave dog, the old Colonel, with his two adjutants,
Suggen and Arne, at once took possession of the places
where they had stood for so many a long day on the
voyage south — on the starboard side of the mainmast;
the two twins, Mylius and Ring, Helmer Hanssen's
special favourites, began their games away in the corner
of the fore-deck to port, as though nothing had hap-
pened. To look at those two merry rascals no one
would have thought they had trotted at the head of the
whole caravan both to and from the Pole. One solitary
dog could be seen stalking about, lonely and reserved,
in a continual uneasy search. This w^as the boss of
Bjaaland's team. He was unaffected by any advances;
no one could take the place of his fallen comrade and
friend, Frith j of, who had long ago found a grave in the
stomachs of his companions many hundreds of miles
across the Barrier.
No sooner was the last dog helped on board, and the
two ice-anchors released, than the engine-room telegraph
rang, and the engine was at once set going to keep us
from any closer contact with the ice-foot in the Bay of
Whales. Our farewell to this snug harbour took almost
the form of a leap from one world to another; the fog
hung over us as thick as gruel, concealing all the sur-
rounding outlines behind its clammy curtain, as we
LEAVING THE BAY 183
stood out. After a lapse of three or four hours, it
Hfted quite suddenly, but astern of us the bank of fog
still stood like a wall; behind it the panorama, which
we knew would have looked wonderful in clear weather,
and which we should so gladly have let our eyes rest
upon as long as we could, was entirely concealed.
The same course we had steered when coming in
a year before could safely be taken in the opposite
direction now we were going out. The outlines of the
bay had remained absolutely unchanged during the year
that had elapsed. Even the most projecting point of
the wall on the west side of the bay, Cape Man's Head,
stood serenely in its old place, and it looked as if it was
in no particular hurry to remove itself. It will probably
stay where it is for many a long day yet, for if any
movement of the ice mass is taking place at the inner
end of the bay, it is in any case very slight. Only in
one respect did the condition of things differ somewhat
this year from the preceding. Whereas in 1911 the
greater part of the bay was free of sea-ice as early as
January 14, in 1912 there was no opening until about
fourteen days later. The ice-sheet had stubbornly held
on until the fresh north-easterly breeze, that appeared
on the very day the southern party returned, had
rapidly provided a channel of open water. The break-
ing up of the ice could not possibly have taken place
at a more convenient moment; the breeze in question
saved us a great deal, both of time and trouble, as the
184 NORTHWARD
way to the place where the Fram lay before the ice
broke up was about five times as long as the distance
we now had to go. This difference of fourteen days in
the time of the disappearance of the ice in two summers
showed us how lucky we had been to choose that par-
ticular year — 1911 — for our landing here. The work
which we carried out in three weeks in 1911, thanks to
the early breaking up of the ice, would certainly have
taken us double the time in 1912, and would have caused
us far more difficulty and trouble.
The thick fog that, as I have said, lay over the Bay of
Whales when we left it, prevented us also from seeing
what our friends the Japanese were doing. The Kainan
Maru had put to sea in company with the Fram during
the gale of January 27, and since that time we had seen
nothing of them. Those members of the expedition
who had been left behind in a tent on the edge of the
Barrier to the north of Framlieim had also been very
retiring of late. On the day we left the place, one of
our own party had an interview with two of the
foreigners. Prestrud had gone to fetch the flag that
had been set up on Cape Man's Head as a signal to the
Fram that all had returned. By the side of the flag
a tent had been put up, which was intended as a shelter
for a lookout man, in case the Fram had been delayed.
When Prestrud came up, he was no doubt rather sur-
prised to find himself face to face with two sons of
Nippon, who were engaged in inspecting our tent and
O
E-i
O
<;
a
E-i
O
s
THE JAPANESE VISITORS 185
its contents, which, however, only consisted of a sleeping-
bag and a Primus. The Japanese had opened the
conversation with enthusiastic phrases about " nice day "
and " plenty ice " ; when our man had expressed his
absolute agreement on these indisputable facts, he tried
to get information on matters of more special interest.
The two strangers told him that for the moment they
were the only inhabitants of the tent out on the edge of
the Barrier. Two of their companions had gone on
a tour into the Barrier to make meteorological observa-
tions, and were to be away about a week. The Kainan
Maru had gone on another cruise in the direction
of King Edward Land. As far as they knew, it
was intended that the ship should be back before
February 10, and that all the members of the expedition
should then go on board and sail to the north. Prestrud
had invited his two new acquaintances to visit us at
Framheim, the sooner the better; they delayed their
coming too long, however, for us to be able to wait for
them. If they have since been at Framheim, they will
at any rate be able to bear witness that we did our best
to make things comfortable for any successors.
When the fog lifted, we found ourselves surrounded
by open sea, practically free from ice, on all sides. A
blue-black sea, with a heavy, dark sky above it, is not
usually reckoned among the sights that delight the eye.
To our organs of vision it was a real relief to come into
surroundings where dark colours predominated. For
VOL. II. 38
186 NORTHWARD
months we had been staring at a dazzling sea of vv^hite,
where artificial means had constantly to be employed to
protect the eyes against the excessive flood of light.
As a rule, it was even necessary to limit the exposure of
the pupils to a mmimum, and to draw the eyelids
together. Now we could once more look on the world
with open eyes, literally " without winking "; even such
a commonplace thing as this is an experience in one's
life. Ross Sea showed itself again on its most favour-
able side. A cat's paw of south-westerly wind enabled
us to use the sails, so that after a lapse of two days we
were already about two hundred miles from the Barrier.
Modest as this distance may be in itself, when seen on
the chart it looked quite imposing in our eyes. It nmst
be remembered that, with the means of transport we
had employed on land, it cost us many a hard day's
march to cover a distance of two hundred geographical
miles.
Nilsen had marked on the chart the limits of the belt
of drift-ice during the three passages the Fravi had
already made. The supposition that an available open-
ing is always to be found in the neighbourhood of the
150th meridian appears to be confirmed. The slight
changes in the position of the channel were only caused,
according to Nilsen's experiences, by variations in the
direction of the wind. He had found that it always
answered his purpose to turn and try to windward, if
the pack showed signs of being close. This mode of
THROUGH THE PACK 187
procedure naturally had the effect of making the course
somewhat crooked, but to make up for this it had
always resulted in his finding open water. On this trip
we reached the edge of the pack-ice belt three days
after leaving the Barrier. The position of the belt
proved to be very nearly the same as on previous
passages. After we had held our course for some hours,
however, the ice became so thick that it looked badly for
our further progress. Now was the time to try Nilsen's
method: the wind, which, by the way, was quite light,
came about due west, and accordingly the helm was put
to starboard and the bow turned to the west. For a
good while we even steered true south, but it proved
that this fairly long turn had not been made in vain;
after we had worked our way to windward for a few
hours, we found openings in numbers. If we had held
our course as we began, it is not at all impossible that
we should have been delayed for a long time, with
a free passage a few miles away.
After having accomplished this first long turn, we
escaped having to make any more in future. The ice
continued slack, and on February 6 the rapidly increas-
ing swell told us that we had done with the Antarctic
drift-ice for good. I doubt if we saw a single seal during
our passage through the ice-belt this time; and if we
had seen any, we should scarcely have allowed the time
for shooting them. There was plenty of good food both
for men and dogs this time, without our ha\ang recourse
188 NORTHWARD
to seal-beef. For the dogs we had brought all our
remaining store of the excellent dogs' pemmican, and
that was not a little. Besides this, we had a good lot of
dried fish. They had fish and pemmican on alternate
days. On this diet the animals kept in such splendid
condition that, when on arrival at Hobart they had shed
most of their rough winter coats, they looked as if they
had been in clover for a year.
For the nine of us who had just joined the ship, our
comrades on board had brought all the way from Buenos
Aires several fat pigs, that were now li\'ing in luxury in
their pen on the after-deck; in addition to these, three
fine sheep's carcasses hung in the workroom. It need
scarcely be said that we were fully capable of appreciat-
ing these unexpected luxuries. Seal-beef, no doubt, had
done excellent service, but this did not prevent roast
mutton and pork being a welcome change, especially as
they came as a complete surprise. I hardly think one
of us had counted on the possibility of getting fresh
meat before we were back again in civilization.
On her arrival at the Bay of Whales there were eleven
men on board the Fram, all included. Instead of
Kutschin and Nodtvedt,who had gone home from Buenos
Aires while the ship was there in the autumn of 1911,
three new men were engaged — namely, Halvorsen,
Olsen and Steller; the two first -named were from
Bergen ; Steller was a German, who had lived for several
years in Norway, and talked Norwegian like a native.
THE NEW HANDS 189
All three were remarkably efficient and friendly men; it
was a pleasure to have any deahngs with them. I
venture to think that they, too, found themselves at
home in our company; they were really only engaged
until the Fram called at the first port, but they stayed
on board all the way to Buenos Aires, and will certainly
go with us farther still.
When the shore party came on board. Lieutenant
Prestrud took up his old position as first officer; the
others began duty at once. All told, we were now twenty
men on board, and after the Fram had sailed for a year
rather short-handed, she could now be said to have a
full crew again. On this voyage we had no special
work outside the usual sea routine, and so long as the
weather was fair, we had thus a comparatively quiet
life on board. But the hours of watch on deck passed
quickly enough, I expect; there was material in plenty
for many a long chat now. If we, who came from land,
showed a high degree of curiosity about what had been
going on in the world, the sea-party were at least as
eager to have full information of every detail of our
year-long stay on the Barrier. One must almost have
experienced something similar oneself to be able to form
an idea of the hail of questions that is showered upon
one on such an occasion. What we land-lubbers had
to relate has been given in outline in the preceding
chapters. Of the news we heard from outside, perhaps
nothing interested us so much as the story of how the
190 NORTHAVARD
change in the plan of the expedition had been received
at home and abroad.
It must have been at least a week before there was
any noticeable ebb in the flood of questions and answers.'
That week went by quickly ; perhaps more quickly than
we really cared for, since it proved that the Fram was
not really able to keep pace with time. The weather
remained quite well behaved, but not exactly in the
way we wished. We had reckoned that the south-
easterly and easterly winds, so frequent around Fram-
heim, would also show themselves out in Ross Sea, but
they entirely forgot to do so. We had little wind, and
when there was any, it was, as a rule, a slant from the
north, always enough to delay our honest old ship. It
was impossible to take any observations for the first
eight days, the sky was continuously overcast. If one
occasionally asked the skipper about her position, he
usually replied that the only thing that could be said for
certain was that we were in Ross Sea. On February 7,
however, according to a fairly good noon observation,
we were well to the north of Cape Adare, and therefore
beyond the limits of the Antarctic Continent. On the
way northward we passed Cape Adare at a distance
hardly greater than could have been covered with a
good day's sailing ; but our desire of making this detour
had to give way to the chief consideration — northward,
northward as quickly as possible.
There is usually plenty of wind in the neighbourhood
FESTIVITIES 191
of bold promontories, and Cape Adare is no exception
in this respect; it is well known as a centre of bad
weather. Nor did we slip by without getting a taste
of this; but it could not have been more welcome, as
it happened that the wind was going the same way as
ourselves. Two days of fresh south-east wind took us
comparatively quickly past the Balleny Islands, and on
February 9 we could congratulate ourselves on being
well out of the south frigid zone. It was with joy that
we had crossed the Antarctic Circle over a year ago,
going south; perhaps we rejoiced no less at crossing it
this time in the opposite direction.
In the bustle of getting away from our winter-
quarters there had been no time for any celebration
of the fortunate reunion of the land and sea parties.
As this occasion for festivity had been let slip, we had
to look out for another, and we agreed that the day
of our passage from the frigid to the temperate zone
afforded a very good excuse. The pre-arranged part
of the programme was extremely simple: an extra cup
of coffee, duly accompanied by punch and cigars, and
some music on the gramophone. Our worthy gramo-
phone could not offer anything that had the interest of
novelty to us nine who had wintered at Framheim: we
knew the whole repertoire pretty well by heart; but
the well-known melodies awakened memories of many
a pleasant Saturday evening around the toddy table in
our cosy winter home down at the head of the Bay of
192 NORTHWARD
Whales — memories which we need not be ashamed of
recaUing. On board the Fram gramophone music had
not been heard since Christmas Eve, 1910, and the
members of the sea party were glad enough to encore
more than one number.
Outside the limits of the programme we were treated
to an extra number by a singer, who imitated the
gramophone in utilizing a big megaphone, to make up
for the deficiencies of his voice — according to his own
statement. He hid behind the curtain of Captain
Nilsen's cabin, and through the megaphone came a
ditty intended to describe life on the Barrier from its
humorous side. It was completely successful, and we
again had a laugh that did us good. Performances of
this kind, of course, only have a value to those who
have taken part in or are acquainted with the events
to which they refer. In case any outsider may be
interested in seeing what our entertainment was like,
a few of the verses are given here.
It must be remarked that the author composed his
production in the supposition that we should be able to
meet by Christmas, and he therefore proposed that for
the moment we should imagine ourselves to be cele-
brating that festival. We made no difficulty about
acceding to his request:
Well, here we are assembled to jollity once more.
Some from off the ocean and the rest from off the shore.
A year has passed since last we met and all are safe and sound.
Then let us banish all our cares and join our hands all round.
" IN HIS COUNTRY'S CAUSE " 193
Christmas^ happy Christmas ! let us pass the flowing bowl,
Fill your glasses all, and let's make " Sails " a wee bit full.
For all I'll say is this — that it's in his country's cause;
If he staggers just a little, it is in his country's cause.
Now you sailor boys shall hear about the time we have gone through:
The winter — well, it wasn't long, we had so much to do.
There was digging snow^ and sleeping — you can bet we're good at
that —
And eating, too — no wonder that we're all a little fat.
We had hot cakes for our breakfast and " hermetik " each day.
Mutton pies, ragouts and curries, for that is Lindstrom's way.
But all I'll say is this — that 'twas in our country's cause.
If we stuffed ourselves with dainties, it was in our country's cause.
September came and off we went — that trip was pretty tough;
Our compasses all went on strike, they thought it cold enough.
The brandy in the Captain's flask froze to a lump of ice ;
We all agreed, both men and dogs, such weather wasn't nice.
So back we went to Framheim to thaw our heels and toes ;
It could not be quite healthy when our feet and fingers froze.
But all I say is this — that 'twas in our country's cause.
And we did not mind a frost-bite when 'twas in our country's cause.
The sun came up and warmed us then a little day by day ;
Five men went out again and toiled along the southern way.
This time they conquered snow and ice, and all the world may hear
That Norway's flag flies at the Pole. Now, boys, a ringing cheer
For him who led them forward through the mountains and the plain.
Up to the goal they aimed at, and safely back again.
But all I'll say is this — that 'twas in his country's cause;
If he went through and won the Pole, 'twas in his country's cause.
It could soon be noticed, in one way and another,
that we had reached latitudes where existence took a
very different aspect from what we had been accus-
tomed to south of the 66th parallel. One welcome
194 NORTHWARD
change was the rise in temperature; the mercury now
climbed well above freezing-point, and those individuals
on board who were still more or less clad in skins, shed
the last remnants of their Polar garb for a lighter and
more convenient costume. Those who waited longest
before making the change were the ones who belonged
to the shore party. The numerous people who imagine
that a long stay in the Polar regions makes a man less
susceptible of cold than other mortals are completely
mistaken. The direct opposite is more likely to be the
case. A man who stays some time in a place where
the everyday temperature is down in the fifties below
zero, or more than that, will not trouble himself greatly
about the cold, so long as he has good and serviceable
skin clothing. Let the same man, rigged out in civilized
clothes, be suddenly put down in the streets of Chris-
tiania on a winter day, with thirty or thirty-five degrees
of frost, and the poor fellow's teeth will chatter till they
fall out of his mouth. The fact is, that on a Polar trip
one defends oneself effectively against the cold; when
one comes back, and has to go about with the protection
afforded by an overcoat, a stiff collar, and a hard hat —
well, then one feels it.
A less welcome consequence of the difference in
latitude was the darkening of the nights. It may be
admitted that continual daylight would be unpleasant
in the long run ashore, but aboard ship an everlasting
day would certainly be preferred, if such a thing could
DARKER NIGHTS 195
be had. Even if we might now consider that we had
done with the principal mass of Antarctic ice, we still
had to reckon with its disagreeable outposts — the ice-
bergs. It has already been remarked that a practised
look-out man can see the blink of one of the larger
bergs a long way off in the dark, but when it is a
question of one of the smaller masses of ice, of which
only an inconsiderable part rises above the surface,
there is no such brightness, and therefore no warning.
A little lump like this is just as dangerous as a big
berg; you run the same risks in a possible collision
of knocking a hole in the bows or carrying away the
rigging. In these transitional regions, where the tem-
perature of the water is always very low, the ther-
mometer is a very doubtful guide.
The waters in which we were sailing are not yet
so well known as to exclude the possibility of meeting
with land. Captain Colbeck, who commanded one of
the relief ships sent south during Scott's first expedi-
tion, came quite unexpectedly upon a little island to
the east of Cape Adare; this island was afterwards
named after Captain Scott. When Captain Colbeck
made his discovery, he was about on the course that
has usually been taken by ships whose destination was
within the limits of Ross Sea. There is still a possi-
bility that in going out of one's course, voluntarily or
involuntarily; one may find more groups of islands in
that part.
196 NORTHWARD
On the current charts of the South Pacific there are
marked several archipelagoes and islands, the position
of which is not a little doubtful. One of these —
Emerald Island — is charted as lying almost directly in
the course we had to follow to reach Hobart. Captain
Davis, who took Shackleton's ship, the Nimrod, home
to England in 1909, sailed, however, right over the
point where Emerald Island should be found according
to the chart without seeing anything of it. If it exists
at all, it is, at any rate, incorrectly charted. In order
to avoid its vicinity, and still more in order to get as far
as possible to the west before we came into the westerly
belt proper, we pressed on as much as we could for
one hard week, or perhaps nearer two; but a continual
north-west wind seemed for a long time to leave us
only two disagreeable possibiHties, either of drifting to
the eastward, or of finding ourselves dov/n in the drift-
ice to the north of Wilkes Land.
Those weeks were a very severe trial of patience to
the many on board who were burning with eagerness
to get ashore with our news, and perhaps to hear some
in return. When the first three weeks of February
were past, we were not much more than half-way ; with
anything like favourable conditions we ought to have
arrived by that time. The optimists always consoled
us by saying that sooner or later there would be a
change for the better, and at last it came. A good
spell of favourable wind took us at a bound well to the
SLOW PROGRESS 197
windward both of the doubtful Emerald Island and of
the authentic JNIacquarie group to the north of it.
It may be mentioned in passing, that at the time we
went by, the most southerly wireless telegraphy station
in the world was located on one of the Macquarie
Islands. The installation belonged to Dr. Mawson's
Antarctic expedition. Dr. Mawson also took with him
apparatus for installing a station on the Antarctic Con-
tinent itself, but, so far as is known, no connection was
accomplished the first year.
During this fortunate run we had come so far to the
west that our course to Hobart was rapidly approaching
true north. On the other hand, we should have liked
to be able to take advantage of the prevailing winds,
— the westerlies. These vary little from one year to
another, and we found them much the same as we had
been accustomed to before : frequent, stiff breezes from
the north-west, which generally held for about twelve
hours, and then veered to west or south-west. So long
as the north-wester was blowing, there was nothing to
do but to He to with shortened sail; when the change
of wind came, we made a few hours' progress in the
right direction. In this way we crept step by step
northward to our destination. It was slow enough, no
doubt; but every day the line of our course on the
chart grew a Httle longer, and towards the end of
February the distance between us and the southern point
of Tasmania had shrunk to very modest dimensions.
198 NORTHWARD
With the constant heavy westerly swell, the Frarrij
light as she now was, surpassed herself in rolling, and
that is indeed saying a great deal. This rolling brought
us a little damage to the rigging, the gaff of the main-
sail breaking; however, that affair did not stop us long.
The broken spar was quickly replaced by a spare gaff.
Our hopes of arriving before the end of February
came to naught, and a quarter of March went by before
our voyage was at an end.
On the afternoon of March 4, we had our first glimpse
of land ; but, as the weather was by no means clear and
we had not been able to determine our longitude with
certainty for two days, we were uncertain which point
of Tasmania we had before us. To explain the situation,
a short description of the coast-line is necessary. The
southern angle of Tasmania runs out in three promon-
tories; off the easternmost of these, and only divided
from it by a very narrow channel, lies a steep and
apparently inaccessible island, called Tasman Island.
It is, however, accessible, for on the top of it — 900 feet
above the sea — stands a lighthouse. The middle prom-
ontory is called Tasman Head, and between this and
the eastern one we have Storm Bay, which* forms the
approach to Plobart; there, then, lay our course. The
question was, which of the three heads we had sighted.
This was difficult, or rather impossible, to decide, so
indistinct was the outline of the land in the misty air;
it was also entirely unknown to us, as not one of us had
AN ANNOYING DELAY 199
ever before been in this corner of the world. When
darkness came on, a heavy rain set in, and without
being able to see anything at all, we lay there feeling
our way all night. With the appearance of daylight
a fresh south-west wind came and swept away most
of the rain, so that we could again make out the land.
We decided that what we saw was the middle promon-
tory, Tasman Head, and gaily set our course into
Storm Bay — as we thought. With the rapidly
strengthening breeze we went spinningly, and the
possibility of reaching Hobart in a few hours began
to appear as a dead certainty. With this comfortable
feeling we had just sat down to the breakfast table
in the fore-saloon, when the door was pulled open with
what seemed unnecessary violence, and the face of the
officer of the watch appeared in the doorway. " We're
on the wrong side of the head," was the sinister message,
and the face disappeared. Good-bye to our pleasant
plans, good-bye to our breakfast! All hands went
on deck at once, and it was seen only too well that
the melancholy information was correct. We had
made a mistake in the thick rain. The wind, that
had now increased to a stiff breeze, had chased the
rain-clouds from the tops of the hills, and on the point
we had taken for Tasman Head, we now saw the
lighthouse. It was therefore Tasman Island, and
instead of being in Storm Bay, we were out in the
open Pacific, far to leeward of the infamous headland.
200 NORTHWARD
There was nothing to be done but to beat and attempt
to work our way back to windward, although we knew
it would be practically labour in vain. The breeze
increased to a gale, and instead of making any headway
we had every prospect of drifting well to leeward;
that was the usual result of trying to beat with the
Fram. Rather annoyed though we were, we set to
work to do what could be done, and with every square
foot of canvas set the Fram pitched on her way close-
hauled. To begin with, it looked as if we held our
own more or less, but as the distance from land increased
and the wind got more force, our bearings soon showed
us that we were going the way the hen kicks. About
midday we went about and stood in towards land again ;
immediately after came a violent squall which tore the
outer jib to ribbons; with that we were also obliged
to take in the mainsail, otherwise it would pretty
soon have been caught aback, and there would have
been further damage to the rigging. With the remain-
ing sails any further attempt was useless; there was
nothing left but to get as close under the lee of the
land as we could and try with the help of the engine
to hold our own till the weather moderated. How
it blew that afternoon! One gust after another came
dancing down the slopes of the hills, and tore at the
rigging till the whole vessel shook. The feeling on
board was, as might be expected, somewhat sultry,
and found an outlet in various expression the reverse
IN STORM BAY 201
of gentle. Wind, weather, fate, and life in general
were inveighed against, but this availed little. The
peninsula that separated us from Storm Bay still lay-
there firm and immovable, and the gale went on as if
it was in no hurry to let us get round. The whole day
went by, and the greater part of the night, without any
change taking place. Not till the morning of the 6th
did our prospects begin to improve. The wind became
lighter and went more to the south ; that was, of course,
the way we had to go, but by hugging the shore, where
we had perfectly smooth water, we succeeded in working
our way down to Tasman Island before darkness fell.
The night brought a calm, and that gave us our chance.
The engine worked furiously, and a shght favourable
current contributed to set us on our way. By dawn
on the 7th we were far up Storm Bay and could at last
consider ourselves masters of the situation.
It was a sunny day, and our faces shone in rivalry
with the sun ; all trace of the last two days' annoyances
had vanished. And soon the Fram, too, began to shine.
The white paint on deck had a thorough overhauling
with soap and water in strong solution. The Ripolin
was again as fresh as when new. When this had been
seen to, the outward appearance of the men also began
to undergo a striking change. The Iceland jackets and
*' blanket costumes " from Horten gave way to " shore
clothes " of the most varied cut, hauled out after a two
years' rest; razors and scissors had made a rich harvest,
VOL. II. 39
202 NORTHWARD
and sailmakerRonne's fashionable Burberry caps figured
on most heads. Even Lindstrom, who up to date had
held the position among the land party of being its
heaviest, fattest, and blackest member, showed unmis-
takable signs of having been in close contact with
water.
Meanwhile we were nearing a pilot station, and a
bustling little motor launch s^vung alongside. " Want
a pilot, captain?" One positively started at the sound
of the first new human voice. Communication ^vith the
outer world was again established. The pilot — a brisk,
good-humoured old man — looked about liim in surprise
when he came up on to our deck. " I should never
have imagined things were so clean and bright on board
a Polar ship," he said ; " nor should I have thought from
the look of you that you had come from Antarctica.
You look as if you had had nothing but a good time."
We could assure him of that, but as to the rest, it was
not our intention just yet to allow ourselves to be
pumped, and the old man could see that. He had no
objection to our pumping him, though he had no very
great store of news to give us. He had heard nothing
of the Terra Nova; on the other hand, he was able to
tell us that Dr. Mawson's ship, the Aurora, commanded
by Captain Davis, might be expected at Hobart any day.
They had been looking out for the Fram since the
beginning of February, and had given us up long ago.
That was a surprise, anyhow.
ARRIVAL AT HOBART 203
Our guest evidently had no desire to make the
acquaintance of our cuisine; at any rate, he very
energetically declined our invitation to breakfast. Pre-
sumably he was afraid of being treated to dog's flesh
or similar original dishes. On the other hand, he
showed great appreciation of our Norwegian tobacco.
He had his handbag pretty nearly full when he left us.
Hobart Town lies on the bank of the Derwent River,
which runs into Storm Bay. The surroundings are
beautiful, and the soil evidently extremely fertile; but
woods and fields were almost burnt up on our arrival ; a
prolonged drought had prevailed, and made an end of all
green things. To our eyes it was, however, an unmixed
delight to look upon meadows and woods, even if their
colours were not absolutely fresh. We were not very
difficult to please on that score.
The harbour of Hobart is an almost ideal one, large
and remarkably well protected. As we approached the
town, the usual procession of harbour-master, doctor,
and Custom-house officers came aboard. The doctor
soon saw that there was no work for his department, and
the Custom-house officers were easily convinced that we
had no contraband goods. The anchor was dropped,
and we were free to land. I took my cablegrams, and
accompanied the harbour-master ashore.
CHAPTER XV
THE EASTERN SI.EDGE JOURNEY
By Lieutenant K. Prestrud
On October 20, 1911, the southern party started on
their long journey. The departure took place without
much ceremony, and with the smallest possible expendi-
ture of words. A hearty grasp of the hand serves the
purpose quite as well on such occasions. I accompanied
them to the place we called the starting-point, on the
south side of the bay. After a final " Good luck " to
our Chief and comrades — as sincere a wish as I have ever
bestowed upon anyone — I cinematographed the caravan,
and very soon after it was out of sight. Those fellows
went southward at a great pace, Helmer Hanssen's
quick-footed team leading as usual.
There I stood, utterly alone, and I cannot deny that I
was a prey to somewhat mixed feelings. When should
we see those five again, who had just disappeared from
view on the boundless plain, and in what conditions?
What sort of a report would they bring of the result?
There was plenty of room for guesses here, and abundant
204
LIEUTENANT PRESTRUD.
To face page 204, Vol. II.
LEFT IN CHARGE 205
opportunity for weighing every possibility, good and
bad ; but there was very little to be gained by indulging
in speculations of that sort. The immediate facts first
claimed attention. One fact, amongst others, was
that Framheim was a good three miles away; another
was that the cinematograph apparatus weighed a good
many pounds; and a third that Lindstrom would be
mightily put out if I arrived too late for dinner. Our
chef insisted on a high standard of punctuality in the
matter of meal-times. Homeward, then, at the best
speed possible. The speed, however, was not particularly
good, and I began to prepare for the consequences of a
long delay. On the other side of the bay I could just
make out a little black speck, that seemed to be in
motion towards me. I thought at first it was a seal,
but, fortunately, it turned out to be Jorgen Stubberud
with six dogs and a sledge. This was quite encouraging:
in the first place, I should get rid of my unmanageable
burden, and in the second I might expect to get on
faster. Stubberud's team consisted, however, of four
intractable puppies, besides Puss and another courser of
similar breed ; the result was that our pace was a modest
one and our course anything but straight, so that we
arrived at Framheim two hours after the time appointed
for dinner. Those who know anything of Master
Lindstrom and his disposition will easily be able from
this explanation to form an idea of his state of mind at
the moment when we entered the door. Yes, he was
206 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
undoubtedly angrj% but we were at least equally hungry ;
and if anything can soften the heart of a Norwegian
caterer, it is a ravenous appetite in those he has to feed,
provided, of course, that he have enough to offer them,
and Lindstrom's supplies were practically unlimited.
I remember that dinner well : at the same table where
eight of us had sat for so many months, there were now
only three left — Johansen, Stubberud, and I. We had
more room, it is true, but that gain was a poor satisfac-
tion. We missed those who had gone very badly, and
our thoughts were always following them. The first
thing we discussed on this occasion was how many miles
they might be expected to do that day: nor was this
the last dispute we had on the same theme. During
the weeks and months that followed, it was constantly to
the fore, and gave plenty of material for conversation
when we had exhausted our own concerns. As regards
these latter, my instructions were :
1. To go to King Edward VII. Land, and there carry
out what exploration time and circumstances might
permit.
2. To survey and map the Bay of Whales and its
immediate surroundings.
3. As far as possible to keep the station at Framheim
in order, in case we might have to spend another winter
there.
As regards time, my orders were to be back at
Framheim before we could reasonably expect the arrival
THE INSTRUCTIONS 207
of the Fram. This was, and would necessarily remain,
somewhat uncertain. No doubt we all had a great idea
of the Fram's capacity for keeping time, and Lieutenant
Nilsen had announced his intention of being back by
Christmas or the New Year; but nevertheless a year is
a long time, and there are many miles in a trip round
the world. If we assumed that no mishap had occurred
to the Fram, and that she had left Buenos Aires at the
time fixed in the plan — October 1, 1911 — she would in
all probability be able to arrive at the Bay of Whales
about the middle of January, 1912. On the basis of
this calculation we decided, if possible, to get the sledge
journey to King Edward Land done before Christmas,
while the surveying work around the bay would have to
be postponed to the first half of January, 1912. I
thought, however, seeing the advantages of working
while the bay was still frozen over, that it would pay to
devote a few days — immediately following the departure
of the southern party — to the preparatory work of
measuring. But this did not pay at all. We had
reckoned without the weather, and in consequence were
well taken in. When one thinks over it afterwards,
it seems reasonable enough that the final victory of mild
weather over the remains of the Antarctic winter cannot
be accomplished without serious disturbances of the
atmospheric conditions. The expulsion of one evil has
to be effected by the help of another ; and the weather
was bad with a vengeance. During the two weeks that
208 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
followed October 20 there were only three or four days
that offered any chance of working with the theodolite
and plane-table. We managed to get a base-line
measured, 1,000 metres long, and to lay out the greater
part of the east side of the bay, as well as the most
prominent points round the camp ; but one had positively
to snatch one's opportunities by stealth, and every excur-
sion ended regularly in bringing the instrimients home
well covered with snow.
If the bad weather thus put hindrances in the way of
the work we were anxious to do, it made up for it
by providing us with a lot of extra work which we could
very well have done without. There was incessant
shovelling of snow to keep any sort of passage open
to the four dog-tents that were left standing, as well as
to our own underground dwelling, over which the snow
covering had been growing constantly higher. The
fairly high wall that we had originally built on the east
side of the entrance door was now entirely buried in the
snow-drift. It had given us good protection; now the
drift had unimpeded access, and the opening, like the
descent into a cellar, that led down to the door, was
filled up in the course of a few hours when the wind was
in the right quarter. Lindstrom shook his head when
we sometimes asked him how he would get on bv
himself if the weather continued in this way. " So long
as there's nothing but snow in the way, I'll manage to
get out," said he. One day he came and told us that he
MOVING COAL 209
could no longer get at the coal, and on further investiga-
tion it looked rather difficult. The roof of the place
where the coal was stored had yielded to the pressure of
the mass of snow, and the whole edifice had collapsed.
There was nothing to be done but to set to work at
once, and after a great deal of hard labour we got the
remainder of the precious fuel moved into the long snow
tunnel that led from the house to the coal-store. With
that our " black diamonds " were in safety for the time
being. This job made us about as black as the
*' diamonds." When we came in the cook, as it happened,
had just been doing a big wash on his own account — a
comparatively rare event — and there was surprise on
both sides. The cook was as much taken aback at
seeing us so black as we were at seeing him so clean.
All the snow-shovelling that resulted from the con-
tinued bad weather, in conjunction with the necessary
preparations for the sledge journey, gave us plenty of
occupation, but I will venture to say that none of us
would care to go through those days again. We were
delayed in our real work, and delay, which is impleasant
enough in any circumstances, was all the more un-
welcome down here, where time is so precious. As
we only had two sledges on which to transport supplies
for three men and sixteen dogs, besides all our outfit,
and as on our trip we should have no depots to fall
back on, the duration of the journey could not be
extended much beyond six weeks. In order to be back
210 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
again by Christmas, we had, therefore, to leave before
the middle of November. It would do no harm, how-
ever, to be off before this, and as soon as November
arrived we took the first opportunity of disappearing.
On account of getting on the right course, we pre-
ferred that the start should take place in clear weather.
The fact was that we were obliged to go round by the
depot in 80° S. As King Edward Land lies to the
east, or rather north-east, of Framheim, this was a con-
siderable detour; it had to be made, because in Sep-
tember we had left at this depot all the packed sledging
provisions, a good deal of our personal equipment, and,
finally, some of the necessary instruments.
On the way to the depot, about thirty geographical
miles south of Framheim, we had the nasty crevassed
surface that had been met with for the first time on the
third depot journey in the autumn of 1911 — in the
month of April. At that time we came upon it alto-
gether unawares, and it was somewhat remarkable that
we escaped from it with the loss of two dogs. This
broken surface lay in a depression about a mile to the
west of the route originally marked out; but, however
it may have been, it seems ever since that time to have
exercised an irresistible attraction. On our first attempt
to go south, in September, 1911, we came right into
the middle of it, in spite of the fact that it was then
perfectly clear. I afterwards heard that in spite of all
their efforts, the southern party, on their last trip.
THE ANTARCTIC SEAL 211
landed in this dangerous region, and that one man had
a very narrow escape of falling in with sledge and dogs.
I had no wish to expose myself to the risk of such
accidents — at any rate, while we were on familiar
ground. That would have been a bad beginning to my
first independent piece of work as a Polar explorer.
A day or two of fine weather to begin with would
enable us to follow the line originally marked out, and
thus keep safe ground under our feet until the ugly
place was passed.
In the opening days of November the weather con-
ditions began to improve somewhat; in any case, there
was not the continual driving snow. Lindstrom asked
us before we left to bring up a sufficient quantity of
seals, to save him that work as long as possible. The
supply we had had during the winter was almost ex-
hausted; there was only a certain amount of blubber
left. We thought it only fair to accede to his wish,
as it is an awkward business to transport those heavy
beasts alone, especially when one has only a pack of
unbroken puppies to drive. We afterwards heard that
Lindstrom had some amusing experiences with them
during the time he was left alone.
Leaving the transport out of the question, this seal-
hunting is a very tame sport. An old Arctic hand or
an Eskimo would certainly be astounded to see the
placid calm with which the Antarctic seal allows itself
to be shot and cut up. To them Antarctica would
212 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
appear as a fairyland made real, a land flowing with
milk and honey, where seals are to he found in quanti-
ties, and the difficulty of getting at them is reduced to
nil. The fact is that these animals have once for all
acquired the conviction that they are beyond the reach
of any danger so long as they keep on land or on the
ice. There they have never been attacked, and they
are quite incapable of grasping the possibihty of attack.
Their natural enemies are in the water, and these
enemies are not to be trifled with; that can clearly be
seen from the gaping wounds that are often found on
the seals' bodies. To avoid the attacks of these
enemies the seals have only to get on to the ice, where
for generations they have been accustomed to bask in
the sun undisturbed, without other neighbours than
the, to them, perfectly harmless penguins and skua
gulls.
The sudden appearance of a man on the scene will
therefore at first have very little effect on an Antarctic
seal. One can go right up to it without its doing any-
thing but staring with eyes that reflect a perfectly hope-
less failure to comprehend the seriousness of the situation.
It is only when one touches them with a ski-pole or
something of the sort that they begin to fear danger.
If the stirring-up is continued in a rather more pointed
fashion, the seal soon shows the most manifest signs of
terror. It groans, roars, and at the same time makes
an attempt to get away from its unwelcome visitor;
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BABY SEALS APPEAR 213
but it seldom removes itself many yards at a time, for
the motions of the seal are just as clumsy and slow on
land as they are active and swift in the water. When
it has crawled with great pains to a little distance, there
is no sign that the interruption has made any lasting
impression on it. It looks more as if it took it all as an
unpleasant dream or nightmare, which it would be best
to sleep off as soon as possible. If one shoots a single
seal, this may happen without those lying round so
much as raising their heads. Indeed, we could open
and cut up a seal right before the noses of its com-
panions without this making the slightest impression on
them.
About the beginning of November the seals began to
have their young. So far as we could make out, the
females kept out of the water for several days without
taking any food, until the young one was big enough to
be able to go to sea ; otherwise, it did not seem that the
mothers cared very much for their little ones. Some, it
is true, made a sort of attempt to protect their offspring
if they were disturbed, but the majority simply left
their young ones in the lurch.
As far as we were concerned, we left the females and
their young as much as possible in peace. We killed
two or three new-born seals to get the skins for our
collection. It was another matter with the dogs.
With them seal-hunting was far too favourite a sport
for the opportunity to be neglected. Against a full-
214 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
grown seal, however, they could do nothing; its body
offered no particularly vulnerable spots, and the thick,
tight-fitting skin was too much even for dogs' teeth.
The utmost the rascals could accomplish w^as to annoy
and torment the object of their attack. It was quite
another matter when the young ones began to arrive.
Among this small game the enterprising hunters could
easily satisfy their inborn craving for murder, for the
scoundrels only killed for the sake of killing ; they were
not at all hungry, as they had as much food as they
liked. Of course, we did all we could to put a stop
to this state of things, and so long as there were several
of us at the hut, we saw that the whole pack was tied
up; but when Lindstrom was left by himself, he could
not manage to hold them fast. His tents were alto-
gether snowed under in the weather that prevailed on
the seaboard in December. There were not many dogs
left in his charge, but I am afraid those few wrought
great havoc among the young seals out on the ice of
the bay. The poor mothers could hardly have done
anything against a lot of dogs, even if they had been
more courageous. Their enemies were too active. For
them it was the work of a moment to snatch the young
one from the side of its mother, and then they were able
to take the poor thing's life undisturbed.
Unfortunately, there were no sea - leopards in the
neighbourhood of Framheim. These, which are far
quicker in their movements than the Weddell seal,
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THE START 215
and are, moreover, furnished with a formidable set of
teeth, would certainly have made the four-footed seal-
hunters more careful in their behaviour.
After we had brought up to the house enough seals'
carcasses to keep the ten or twelve dogs that would
be left supplied for a good while, and had cut up a
sufficient quantity for our own use on the way to 80° S.,
we took the first opportunity of getting away. Before
I pass on to give an account of our trip, I wish to say
a few words about my companions — Johansen and
Stubberud. It goes without saying that it gave me,
as a beginner, a great feeling of security to have with
me such a man as Johansen, who possessed many years'
experience of all that pertains to sledging expeditions;
and as regards Stubberud, I could not have wished for
a better travelling companion than him either — a first-
rate fellow, steady and efficient in word and deed. As
it turned out, we were not to encounter very many
difficulties, but one never escapes scot-free on a sledge
journey in these regions. I owe my comrades thanks
for the way in which they both did their best to smooth
our path.
Johansen and Stubberud drove their dog-teams; I
myself acted as " forerunner." The drivers had seven
dogs apiece. We took so many, because we were not
quite sure of what the animals we had were fit for. As
was right and proper, the southern party had picked
out the best. Among those at our disposal there were
216 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
several that had previously shown signs of being rather
quickly tired. True, this happened under very severe
conditions. As it turned out, our dogs exceeded all
our expectations in the easier conditions of work that
prevailed during the summer. On the first part of the
way — as far as the depot in 80° S. — the loads were quite
modest. Besides the tent, the sleeping-bags, our personal
outfit, and instruments, we only had provisions for eight
days — seals' flesh for the dogs, and tinned food for our-
selves. Our real supplies were to be taken from the
depot, where tliere was enough of everything.
On November 8 we left Framheim, where in future
Lindstrom was to reside as monarch of all he surveyed.
The weather was as fine as could be wished. I was out
with the cinematograph apparatus, in order if possible
to immortalize the start. To complete the series of
pictures, Lindstrom was to take the forerunner, who
was now, be it said, a good way behind those he was
supposed to be leading. With all possible emphasis
I enjoined Lindstrom only to give the crank five or six
turns, and then started off to catch up the drivers.
When I had nearly reached the provision store I pulled
up, struck by a sudden apprehension. Yes, I was right :
on looking back I discovered that incorrigible person
still hard at work with the crank, as though he were
going to be paid a pound for every yard of film sliowing
the back view of tlie forerunner. By making threaten-
ing gestures with a ski-pole I stopped the too persistent
ON THE BARRIER SURFACE 217
cinematograph, and then went on to join Stubberud,
who was only a few yards ahead. Johansen had disap-
peared hke a meteor. The last I saw of him was the
soles of his boots, as he quite unexpectedly made an
elegant backward somersault off the sledge when it was
passing over a little unevenness by the provision store.
The dogs, of course, made off at full speed, and Johansen
after them like the wind. We all met again safe and
sound at the ascent to the Barrier. Here a proper
order of march was formed, and we proceeded
southward.
The Barrier greeted us with a fresh south wind, that
now and then made an attempt to freeze the tip of
one's nose; it did not succeed in this, but it delayed
us a little. It does not take a great deal of wind on
this level plain to diminish the rate of one's progress.
But the sun shone too gaily that day to allow a trifle of
wind to interfere very much with our enjoyment of life.
The surface was so firm that there was hardly a sign of
drift-snow. As it was perfectly clear, the mark-flags
could be followed the whole time, thus assuring us that,
at any rate, the first day's march would be accomplished
without any deviation from the right track.
At five o'clock we camped, and when we had fed the
dogs and come into the tent we could feel how much
easier and pleasanter everything was at this season than
on the former journeys in autumn and spring. We
could move freely in a convenient costume; if we
VOL. II. 40
218 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
wished, there was nothing to prevent our performing
all the work of the camp with bare hands and still pre-
serving our finger-tips unharmed. As I had no dog-
team to look after, I midertook the duty of attending
to our own needs ; that is to say, I acted as cook. This
occupation also was considerably easier now than it had
been when the temperature was below - 60° F. At
that time it took half an hour to turn the snow in the
cooker into water; now it was done in ten minutes,
and the cook ran no risk whatever of getting his fingers
frozen in the process.
Ever since we landed on the Barrier in January, 1911,
we had been expecting to hear a violent cannonade as
the result of the movement of the mass of ice. We
had now lived a whole winter at Framlieim without
having observed, as far as I know, the slightest sign
of a sound. This was one of many indications that
the ice round our winter-quarters was not in motion
at all.
No one, I believe, had noticed anything of the ex-
pected noise on the sledge journeys either, but at the
place where we camped on the night of November 8 we
did hear it. There was a report about once in two
minutes, not exactly loud, but still, there it was. It
sounded just as if there was a whole battery of small
guns in action down in the depths below us. A few
hundred j^ards to the west of the camp there were a
number of small hummocks, which might indicate the
NOISES IN THE ICE 219
presence of crevasses, but otherwise the surface looked
safe enough. The small guns kept up a lively crackle
all through the night, and combined with a good deal of
uproar among the dogs to shorten our sleep. But the
first night of a sledge journey is almost always a bad one.
Stubberud declared that he could not close his eyes on
account of " that filthy row." He probably expected the
ice to open and swallow him up every time he heard it.
The surface, however, held securely, and we turned out to
the finest day one could wish to see. It did not require
any very great strength of mind to get out of one's
sleeping-bag now. The stockings that had been hung
up in the evening could be put on again as dry as a
bone; the sun had seen to that. Our ski boots were as
soft as ever; there was not a sign of frost on them. It
is quite curious to see the behaviour of the dogs when
the first head appears through the tent-door in the
morning. They greet their lord and master with the
most unmistakable signs of joy, although, of course,
they must know that his arrival will be followed by
many hours of toil, with, perhaps, a few doses of the
whip thrown in; but from the moment he begins to
handle the sledge, the dogs look as if they had no desire
in the world but to get into the harness as soon as
possible and start away. On days like this their troubles
would be few; with the light load and good going we
had no difficulty in covering nineteen geographical
miles in eight hours. Johansen's team was on my
220 THE EASTERX SLEDGE JOURNEY
heels the whole time, and Stubberud's animals followed
faithfully behind. From time to time we saw sledge-
tracks quite plainly; we also kept the mark-flags in
sight all day. In the temperatures we now had to deal
with our costume was comparatively light — certainly
much lighter than most people imagined; for there is
a kind of summer even in Antarctica, although the
daily readings of the thermometer at this season would
perhaps rather remind our friends at home of what they
are accustomed to regard as winter.
In imdertaking a sledge journey down there in
autumn or spring, the most extraordinary precautions
have to be taken to protect oneself against the cold.
Skin clothing is then the only thing that is of any use ;
but at this time of year, when the sun is above the
horizon for the whole twenty-four hours, one can go for
a long time without being more heavily clad than a
liunberman working in the woods. During the march
our clothing was usually the following: two sets of
woollen underclothes, of which that nearest the skin
was quite thin. Outside the shirt we wore either an
ordinary waistcoat or a comparatively light knitted
woollen jersey. Outside all came our excellent Bur-
berry clothes — trousers and jacket. When it was calm,
with full sunshine, the Burberry jacket was too warm;
we could then go all day in our shirt-sleeves. To be
provided for emergencies, we all had our thinnest
reindeer-skin clothes with us; but, so far as I
COSTUME AND SLEEPING-BAGS 221
know, these were never used, except as pillows or
mattresses.
The subject of sleeping-bags has no doubt been
thoroughly threshed out on every Polar expedition. I
do not know how many times we discussed this question,
nor can I remember the number of more or less success-
ful patents that were the fruit of these discussions. In
any case, one thing is certain, that the adherents of one-
man bags were in an overwhelming majority, and no
doubt rightly. As regards two-man bags, it cannot be
denied that they enable their occupants to keep warm
longer; but it is always difficult to find room for two
big men in one sack, and if the sack is to be used
for sleeping in, and one of the big men takes to snoring
into the other's ear, the situation may become quite
unendurable. In the temperatures we had on the
summer journeys there was no difficulty in keeping
warm enough with the one-man bags, and they were
used by all of us.
On the first southern journey, in September, Johansen
and I used a double bag between us ; in the intense cold
that prevailed at that time we managed to get through
the night without freezing ; but if the weather is so cold
that one cannot keep warmth in one's body in good,
roomy one-man bags, then it is altogether unfit for
sledging journeys.
November 10. — Immediately after the start this
morning we tried how we could get on without a
222 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
forerunner. As long as we were in the line of flags this
answered very well ; the dogs galloped from one flag to
another, while I was able to adopt the easy method
of hanging on to Stubberud's sledge. About midday
we were abreast of the depression already mentioned,
where, on the third depot journey last autumn, we ran
into a regular net of crevasses. This time we were aware
of the danger, and kept to the left; but at the last
moment the leading team ran out to the wrong side, and
we cut cross the eastern part of the dangerous zone.
Fortunately it was taken at full gallop. It is quite
possible that I inwardly wished we were all a few pounds
lighter, as our little caravan raced across those thin snow
bridges, through which could be seen the blue colour of
the ugly gulfs below. But after the lapse of a few long
minutes we could congratulate ourselves on getting over
with our full numbers.
Not for anything would I have gone that mile without
ski on my feet ; it would practically have meant falling
in and going out. It is, perhaps, saying a good deal
to claim that with ski on, one is absolutely secured
against the danger these crevasses present ; if misfortunes
are abroad, anything may happen. But it would require
a very considerable amount of bad luck for man and ski
to fall through.
November 11. — In weather like this, going on the
march is like going to a dance: tent, sleeping-bags, and
clothes keep soft and dry as a bone. The thermometer
CAMP ON THE BARRIER ; EASTERN EXPEDITION.
^
f
♦
A HROKEN-OFF lAl'K ON THE liARP.IEK
To face page 223, Voi. II.
EASY TEMPERATURES 223
is about - 4° F. A fellow-man suddenly put down in
our midst from civilized surroundings would possibly
shake his head at so many degrees of frost, but it must
be remembered that we have long ago abandoned the
ordinary ideas of civilized people as to what is endurable
in the way of temperature. We are enthusiastic about
the spring-like weather, especially when we remember
what it was like down here two months ago, when the
thermometer showed - 76° F., and the rime hung an inch
thick inside the tent, ready to drop on everything and
everybody at the slightest movement. Now there is no
rime to be seen ; the sun clears it away. For now there
is a sun; not the feeble imitation of one that stuck its
red face above the northern horizon in August, but our
good old acquaintance of lower latitudes, with his wealth
of light and warmth.
After two hours' march we came in sight, at ten o'clock
in the morning, of the two snow-huts that were built
on the last trip. We made straight for them, thinking
we might possibly find some trace of the southern party.
So we did, though in a very different way from what we
expected. We were, perhaps, about a mile off when we
all three suddenly halted and stared at the huts. " There
are men," said Stubberud. At any rate there was some-
thing black that moved, and after confused thoughts of
Japanese, Englishmen, and the like had flashed through
our minds, we at last got out the glasses. It w^as not
men, but a dog. Well, the presence of a live dog here.
224 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
seventy-five miles up the Barrier, was in itself a remark-
able thing. It must, of course, be one of the southern
party's dogs, but how the runaway had kept himself alive
all that time was for the present a mystery. On coming
to closer quarters we soon found that it was one of
Hassel's dogs, Peary by name. He was a little shy
to begin with, but when he heard his name he quickly
understood that we were friends come on a visit, and no
longer hesitated to approach us. He was fat and round,
and evidently pleased to see us again. The hermit had
lived on the lamentable remains of poor Sara, whom we
had been obliged to kill here in September. Sara's lean
and frozen body did not seem particularly adapted for
making anyone fat, and yet our newly-found friend
Peary looked as if he had been feasting for weeks.
Possibly he had begun by devouring Neptune, another
of his companions, who had also given the southern party
the slip on the way to the depot in 80° S. However this
may be, Peary's rest cure came to an abrupt conclusion.
Stubberud took him and put liim in his team.
We had thought of reaching the depot before the
close of the day, and this we could easily have done
if the good going had continued; but during the after-
noon the surface became so loose that the dogs sank in
up to their chests, and when — at about six in the even-
ing— the sledge-meter showed twenty-one geographical
miles, the animals were so done up that it was no use
going on.
AT THE DEPOT 225
At eleven o'clock the next morning — Sunday, Novem-
ber 12 — we reached the depot. Captain Amundsen had
promised to leave a brief report when the southern
party left here, and the first thing we did on arrival
was, of course, to search for the document in the place
agreed upon. There were not many words on the little
slip of paper, but they gave us the welcome intelligence :
" All well so far."
We had expected that the southern party's dogs
would have finished the greater j)art, if not the whole, of
the seal meat that was laid down here in April; but
fortunately this was not the case. There was a great
quantity left, so that we could give our own dogs a
hearty feed with easy consciences. They had it, too, and
it was no trifling amount that they got through. The
four days' trot from Framheim had been enough to
produce an unusual appetite. There was a puppy in
Johansen's team that was exposed for the first time
in his life to the fatigues of a sledge journey. This was
a plucky little chap that went by the name of Lillegut.
The sudden change from short commons to abundance
was too much for his small stomach, and the poor puppy
lay shrieking in the snow most of the afternoon.
We also looked after ourselves that day, and had a
good meal of fresh seal meat; after that we supplied
ourselves from the large stores that lay here with the
necessary provisions for a sledge journey of five weeks:
three cases of dogs' pemmican, one case of men's pemmi-
226 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
can, containing ninety rations, 20 pounds of dried milk,
55 pounds of oatmeal biscuits, and three tins of malted
milk, besides instruments, Alpine rope, and clothing.
The necessary quantity of chocolate had been brought
with us from Framheim, as there was none of this to
spare out in the field. Our stock of paraffin was
6i gallons, divided between two tanks, one on each
sledge. Our cooking outfit was exactly the same as
that used by the southern party.
The instruments we carried were a theodolite, a
hypsometer, two aneroids, one of which was no larger
than an ordinary watch, two thermometers, one chrono-
meter watch, one ordinary watch, and one photographic
camera (Kodak 3X3 inches), adapted for using either
plates or films. We had three spools of film, and one
dozen plates.
Our medical outfit was exceedingly simple. It con-
sisted of nothing but a box of laxative pills, three small
rolls of gauze bandage, and a small pair of scissors, which
also did duty for beard-cutting. Both pills and gauze
were untouched when we returned; it may therefore
be safely said that our state of health during the journey
was excellent.
While the drivers were packing and lashing their
loads, which now weighed nearly 600 pounds, I wrote a
report to the Chief, and took an azimutli observation
to determine the direction of our course. According
to our instructions we should reallv have taken a north-
a.
a
a
H
O
El
fa
o
DUE EAST 227
easterly course from here ; but as our dogs seemed to be
capable of more and better work than we had expected,
and as there was believed to be a j)ossibility that bare
land was to be found due east of the spot where we
were, it was decided to make an attempt in that
direction.
Our old enemy the fog had made its appearance in
the course of the night, and now hung, grey and dis-
gusting, under the sky, when we broke camp at the
depot on the morning of November 13. However, it
was not so bad as to prevent our following the flags
that marked the depot on the east.
My duty as forerunner was immediately found to be
considerably lighter than before. With the greatly
increased weight behind them the dogs had all they
could do to follow, if I went at an ordinary walking
pace. At 11 a.m. we passed the easternmost flag, at
flve geographical miles from the depot, and then we
found ourselves on untrodden ground. A light southerly
breeze appeared very opportunely and swept away the
fog; the sun again shed its light over the Barrier,
which lay before us, shining and level, as we had been
accustomed to see it. There was, however, one difference:
with every mile we covered there was the possibility of
seeing something new. The going was excellent, although
the surface was rather looser than one could have wished.
The ski flew over it finely, of course, while dogs' feet and
sledge-runners sank in. I hope I shall never have to go
228 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
here without ski; that would be a terrible punishment;
but with ski on one's feet and in such weather it was
pure enjoyment.
Meanwhile the new sights we expected were slow in
coming. We marched for four days due east without
seeing a sign of change in the ground; there was the
same undulating surface that we knew so well from
previous expeditions. The readings of the hypsometer
gave practically the same result day after day; the
ascent we were looking for failed to appear.
Stubberud, who for the first day or two after leaving
the depot had been constantly stretching himself on
tiptoe and looking out for mountain-tops, finally gave
it as his heartfelt conviction that this King Edward
Land we were hunting for was only a confounded
" Flyaway Land," which had nothing to do with reality.
We others were not yet quite prepared to share this
view; for my own part, in any case, I was loth to give
up the theory that assumed a southward continuation
of King Edward Land along the 158th meridian; this
theory had acquired a certain force during the winter,
and was mainly supported by the fact that on the
second depot journey we had seen, between the 81st
and 82nd parallels, some big pressure-ridges, which
suggested the presence of bare land in a south-easterly
direction.
On November 16 we found ourselves at the 158th
meridian, but on every side the eye encountered the
WE TURN NORTHWARD 229
level, uninterrupted snow surface and nothing else.
Should we go on? It was tempting enough, as the
probability was that sooner or later we should come
upon something; but there was a point in our instruc-
tions that had to be followed, and it said: Go to the
point where land is marked on the chart. This point
was now about 120 geographical miles to the north of
us. Therefore, instead of going on to the east in
uncertainty, we decided to turn to the left and go
north. The position of the spot where we altered our
course was determined, and it was marked by a snow
beacon 7 feet high, on the top of which was placed
a tin box containing a brief report.
On that part of the way which we now had before
us there was little prospect of meeting with surprises;
nor did any fall to our lot. In day's marches that
varied from seventeen to twenty geographical miles, we
went forward over practically level ground. The nature
of the surface was at first ideal ; but as we came farther
north and thus nearer to the sea, our progress was
impeded by a great number of big snow-waves (sastrugi) ,
which had probably been formed during the long period
of bad weather that preceded our departure from Fram-
heim. We did not escape damage on this bad surface.
Stubberud broke the forward part of the spare ski he
had lashed under his sledge, and Johansen's sledge also
suffered from the continual bumping against the hard
sastrugi. Luckily he had been foreseeing enough to
230 THE EASTERX SLEDGE JOURNEY
bring a little hickory bar, which came in very handy
as a splint for the broken part.
As we were now following the direction of the
meridian, or in other words, as our course was now
true north, the daily observations of latitude gave a
direct check on the readings of the sledge-meter. As
a rule they agreed to the nearest minute. Whilst I
was taking the noon altitude my companions had the
choice of standing bj^ the side of their sledges and eating
their lunch, or setting the tent and taking shelter. They
generally chose the latter alternative, making up for it
by going an hour longer in the afternoon. Besides
the astronomical observations, the barometric pressure,
temperature, force and direction of the wind, and amount
of cloud were noted three times daily; every evening
a hypsometer reading was taken.
If I were to undertake the description of a long series
of days like those that passed while we were travelling
on the flat Barrier, I am afraid the narrative w^ould be
strikingly reminiscent of the celebrated song of a hundred
and twenty verses, all with the same rhyme. One day
was very much like another. One would think that
this monotony would make the time long, but the
direct opposite was the case. I have never known time
fly so rapidly as on these sledge journeys, and seldom
have I seen men more happy and contented with their
existence than we three, when after a successful day's
march we could set about taking our simple meal, with
AT THE BARRIER EDGE 231
a pipe of cut plug to follow. The bill of fare was iden-
tically the same every day, perhaps a fault in the eyes
of many; variety of diet is supposed to be the thing.
Hang variety, say I; appetite is what matters. To a
man who is really hungry it is a very subordinate
matter what he shall eat; the main thing is to have
something to satisfy his hunger.
After going north for seven days, we found that
according to observations and sledge-meter we ought
to be in the neighbourhood of the sea. This was
correct. My diary for November 23 reads :
*' To-day we were to see something besides sky and
snow. An hour after breaking camp this morning two
snowy petrels came sailing over us; a little while later
a couple of skua gulls. We welcomed them as the first
living creatures we had seen since leaving winter-quar-
ters. The constantly increasing * water-sky ' to the
north had long ago warned us that we were approach-
ing the sea ; the presence of the birds told us it was not
far off. The skua gulls settled very near us, and the
dogs, no doubt taking them for baby seals, were of
course ready to break the line of march, and go off
hunting, but their keenness soon passed when they
discovered that the game had wings.
" The edge of the Barrier was difficult to see, and,
profiting by previous experience of how easy it is to go
down when the light is bad, we felt our way forward
step by step. At four o'clock we thought we could see
232 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
the precipice. A halt was made at a safe distance, and
I went in advance to look over. To my surprise I found
that there was open water right in to the wall of ice.
We had expected the sea-ice to extend a good way out
still, seeing it was so early in summer; but there lay
the sea, almost free of ice as far as the horizon. Black
and threatening it was to look at, but still a beneficent
contrast to the everlasting snow surface on which we
had now tramped for 300 geographical miles.
" The perpendicular drop of 100 feet that forms the
boundary between the dead barrier and the sea, with
its varied swarm of life, is truly an abrupt and im-
posing transition. The panorama from the top of the
ice-wall is always grand, and it can be beautiful as well.
On a sunny day, or still more on a moonlit night, it has
a fairylike beauty. To-day a heavy, black sky hung
above a still blacker sea, and the ice-wall, which shines
in the light with a dazzling white purity, looked more
like an old white-washed wall than anything else. There
was not a breath of wind; the sound of the surf at
the bottom of the precipice now and then reached my
ears — this was the only thing that broke the vast
silence. One's own dear self becomes so miserably
small in these mighty surroundings; it was a sheer
relief to get back to the company of my comrades."
As things now were, with open water up to the
Barrier itself, our prospect of getting seals here at the
edge of the ice seemed a poor one. Next morning.
o
'A
<
a
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a
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O
a
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z
o
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a
THE BAY OF SEALS 233
however, we found, a few miles farther east, a bay-
about four miles long, and almost entirely enclosed.
It was still frozen over, and seals were lying on the ice
by the dozen. Here was food enough to give both
ourselves and the dogs an extra feed and to replenish
our supplies. We camped and went off to examine the
ground more closely. There were plenty of crevasses,
but a practicable descent was found, and in a very short
time three full-grown seals and a fat young one were
despatched. We hauled half a carcass up to the camp
with the Alpine rope. As we were hard at work drag-
ging our spoil up the steep slope, we heard Stubberud
sing out, "Below, there!" — and away he went like a
stone in a well. He had gone through the snow-bridge on
which we were standing, but a lucky projection stopped
our friend from going very far down, besides which
he had taken a firm round turn with the rope round his
wrist. It was, therefore, a comparatively easy matter to
get him up on the surface again. This little intermezzo
would probably have been avoided if we had not been
without our ski, but the slope was so steep and smooth
that we could not use them. After a few more hauls
we had the seal up by the tent, where a large quantity
of it disappeared in a surprisingly short time down the
throats of fifteen hungry dogs.
The ice of the bay was furrowed by numerous leads,
and while the hunters were busy cutting up the seals,
I tried to get a sounding, but the thirty fathoms of
VOL. II. 41
234 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
Alpine rope I had were not enough; no bottom was
reached. After having something to eat we went down
again, in order if possible to find out the depth. This
time we were better supplied with sounding tackle:
two reels of thread, a marlinspike, and our geological
hammer.
First the marlinspike was sent down with the thread
as a line. An inquisitive lout of a seal did all it could
to bite through the thread, but whether this was too
strong or its teeth too poor, we managed after a lot of
trouble to coax the marlinspike up again, and the inter-
fering rascal, who had come up to the surface now
and then to take breath, got the spike of a ski-pole
in his thick hide. This unexpected treatment was
evidently not at all to his liking, and after acknow-
ledging it by a roar of disgust, he vanished into the
depths. Now we got on better. The marlinspike
sank and sank until it had drawn with it 130 fathoms
of thread. A very small piece of seaweed clung to the
thread as we hauled it in again; on the spike there was
nothing to be seen. As its weight was rather light for
so great a depth — a possible setting of current might
have carried it a little to one side — we decided to try
once more with the hammer, which was considerably
heavier, in order to check the result. The hammer, on
the other hand, was so heavy, that with the delicate
thread as a line the probability of successfully carrying
out the experiment seemed small, but we had to risk
I'
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-^
g
a
z
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>
o
A SOUNDING TAKEN 235
it. The improvised sinker was well smeared with
blubber, and this time it sank so rapidly to the bottom
as to leave no doubt of the correctness of the sounding
— 130 fathoms again. By using extreme care we suc-
ceeded in getting the hammer up again in safety, but no
specimen of the bottom was clinging to it.
On the way back to camp we dragged with us the
carcass of the young seal. It was past three when we
got into our sleeping-bags that night, and, in conse-
quence, we slept a good deal later than usual the next
morning. The forenoon was spent by Johansen and
Stubberud in hauling up another seal from the bay and
packing as much flesh on the sledges as possible. As
fresh meat is a commodity that takes up a great deal of
space in proportion to its weight, the quantity we were
able to take with us was not large. The chief advan-
tage we had gained was that a considerable supply
could be stored on the spot, and it might be useful
to fall back upon in case of delay or other mishaps.
I took the observation for longitude and latitude,
found the height by hypsometer, and took some photo-
graphs. After laying down the depot and erecting
beacons, we broke camp at 3 p.m. South of the head of
the bay there were a number of elevations and pressure
masses, exactly like the formations to be found about
Framheim. To the east a prominent ridge appeared,
and with the glass it could be seen to extend inland in a
south-easterly direction. According to our observations
236 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
this must be the same that Captain Scott has marked
with land-shading on his chart.
We made a wide detour outside the worst pressure-
ridges, and then set our course east-north-east towards
the ridge just mentioned. It was a pretty steep rise,
which was not at all a good thing for the dogs. They
had overeaten themselves shockingly, and most of the
seal's flesh came up again. So that their feast should
not be altogether wasted, we stopped as soon as we had
come far enough up the ridge to be able to regard the
surface as comparatively safe; for in the depression
round the bay it was somewhat doubtful.
jr- On the following morning — Sunday, November 26 — •
there was a gale from the north-east with sky and
Barrier lost in driving snow. That put an end to our
plans of a long Sunday march. In the midst of our
disappointment I had a sudden bright idea. It was
Queen JMaud's birthday! If we could not go on, we
could at least celebrate the day in a modest fashion. In
one of the provision cases there was still a solitary
Stavanger tin, containing salt beef and peas. It was
opened at once, and its contents provided a banquet
that tasted better to us than the most carefully chosen
menu had ever done. In this connection I cannot help
thinking of the joy it woidd bring to many a household
in this world if its master were possessed of an appetite
like ours. The wife would then have no need to dread
the consequences, however serious the shortcomings of
QUEEN MAUD'S BIRTHDAY 237
the cuisine might be. But to return to the feast. Her
jMajesty's health was drunk in a very small, but, at the
same time, very good tot of aquavit, served in enamelled
iron mugs. Carrying alcohol was, of course, against
regulations, strictly speaking; but, as everyone knows,
prohibition is not an easy thing to put into practice.
Even in Antarctica this proved to be the case. Lindstrom
had a habit of sending a little surprise packet with each
sledging party that went out, and on our departure he
had handed us one of these, with the injunction that the
packet was only to be opened on some festive occasion ;
we chose as such Her Majesty's birthday. On examina-
tion the packet was found to contain a little flask of
spirits, in which we at once agreed to drink the Queen's
health.
The 27th brought the same nasty weather, and the
28th was not much better, though not bad enough to
stop us. After a deal of hard work in hauling our
buried belongings out of the snow, we got away and
continued our course to the north-eastward. It was not
exactly an agreeable morning : a brisk wind with driving
snow right in one's face. After trudging against this for
a couple of hours I heard Stubberud call " Halt!" — half
his team were hanging by the traces in a crevasse. I
had gone across without noticing anything; no doubt
owing to the snow in my face. One would think the
dogs would be suspicious of a place like this ; but they
are not — they plunge on till the snow-bridge breaks
238 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
under them. Luckily the harness held, so that it was
the affair of a moment to pull the poor beasts up again.
Even a dog might well be expected to be a trifle shaken
after hanging head downwards over such a fearful chasm ;
but apparently they took it very calmly, and were quite
prepared to do the same thing over again.
For my own part I looked out more carefully after
this, and although there were a good many ugly fissures
on the remaining part of the ascent, we crossed them all
without further incident.
Unpleasant as these crevasses are, they do not involve
any direct danger, so long as the weather is clear and the
light favourable. One can then judge by the appearance
of the surface whether there is danger ahead; and if
crevasses are seen in time, there is always a suitable
crossing to be found. The case is somewhat different in
fog, drift, or when the light is such that the small
inequalities marking the course of the crevasse do not
show up. This last is often the case in cloudy weather,
when even a fairly prominent rise will not be noticed on
the absolutely white surface until one fails over it. In
such conditions it is safest to feel one's way forward with
the ski-pole; though this mode of proceeding is more
troublesome than effective.
In the course of the 28th the ascent came to an end,
and with it the crevasses. The wind fell quite light, and
the blinding drift was succeeded by clear sunshine. We
liad now come sufficiently high up to have a view of the
KING EDWARD LAND 239
sea far to the north-west. During the high wind a
quantity of ice had been driven southward, so that for
a great distance there was no open water to be seen, but
a number of huge icebergs. From the distance of thq
sea horizon we guessed our height to be about 1,000 feet,
and in the evening the hypsometer showed the guess to
be very nearly right.
November 29. — Weather and going all that could be
wished on breaking camp this morning; before us we
had a level plateau, which appeared to be quite free from
unpleasant obstructions. When we halted for the noon
observation the sledge-meter showed ten geographical
miles, and before evening we had brought the day's
distance up to twenty. The latitude was then 77° 32'.
The distance to the Barrier edge on the north was, at a
guess, about twenty geographical miles. We were now
a good way along the peninsula, the northern point of
which Captain Scott named Cape Colbeck, and at the same
time a good way to the east of the meridian in which he
put land-shading on his chart. Our height above the sea,
which was now about 1,000 feet, was evidence enough
that we had firm land under us, but it was still sheathed
in ice. In that respect the landscape offered no change
from what we had learnt to know by the name of
" Barrier." It cannot be denied that at this juncture
I began to entertain a certain doubt of the existence of
bare land in this quarter.
This doubt was not diminished when we had done
240 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
another good day's march to the eastward on Novem-
ber 30. According to our observations v^e were then
just below the point where the Alexandra Mountains
should begin, but there was no sign of mountain ranges ;
the surface was a little rougher, perhaps. However, it
was still too soon to abandon the hope. It would be un-
reasonable to expect any great degree of accuracy of the
chart we had to go by; its scale was far too large for
that. It was, moreover, more than probable that our
own determination of longitude was open to doubt.
Assuming the approximate accm'acy of the chart, by
holding on to the north-east we ought soon to come
down to the seaboard, and with this object in view we
continued our march. On December 1, in the middle
of the day, we saw that everything agreed. From the
top of an eminence the sea was visible due north,
and on the east two domed summits were outlined,
apparently high enough to be worthy of the name of
mountains. They were covered with snow, but on the
north side of them there was an abrupt precipice, in
which many black patches showed up sharply against
the white background. It was still too soon to form an
idea as to whether they were bare rock or not; they
might possibly be fissures in the mass of ice. The
appearance of the summits agreed exactly with Captain
Scott's description of what he saw from the deck of
the Discover u in 1902. He assumed that the black
patches were rocks emerging from the snow-slopes.
ON THE SEABOARD 241
As will be seen later, our respected precursor was
right.
In order to examine the nature of the seaboard, we
began by steering down towards it; but in the mean-
time the weather underwent an unfavourable change.
The sky clouded over and the light became as vile as it
could be. The point we were anxious to clear up was
whether there was any Barrier wall here, or whether the
land and sea-ice gradually passed into each other in an
easy slope. As the light was, there might well have
been a drop of 100 feet without our seeing anything
of it. Securely roped together we made our way down,
until our progress was stopped by a huge pressure-
ridge, which, as far as could be made out, formed the
boundary between land and sea-ice. It was, however,
impossible in the circumstances to get any clear view
of the surroundings, and after trudging back to the
sledges, which had been left up on the slope, we turned
to the east to make a closer examination of the summits
already mentioned. I went in front, as usual, in the
cheerful belief that we had a fairly level stretch before
us, but I was far out in my calculation. My ski began
to slip along at a terrific speed, and it was advisable to
put on the brake. This was easily done as far as I was
concerned, but with the dogs it was a different matter.
Nothing could stop them when they felt that the sledge
was running by its own weight; they went in a wild
gallop down the slope, the end of which could not at
242 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
present be seen. I suppose it will sound like a tall
story, but it is a fact, nevertheless, that to our eyes the
surface appeared to be horizontal all the time. Snow,
horizon and sky all ran together in a white chaos, in
which all lines of demarcation were obliterated.
Fortunately nothing came of our expectation that the
scamper would have a frightful ending in some insidious
abyss. It was stopped quite naturally by an opposing
slope, which appeared to be as steep as the one we had
just slid down. If the pace had been rather too rapid
before, there was now no ground of complaint on that
score. Step by step we crawled up to the top of the
ridge ; but the ground was carefully surveyed before we
proceeded farther.
In the course of the afternoon we groped our way
forward over a whole series of ridges and intervening
depressions. Although nothing could be seen, it was
obvious enough that our surroundings were now of
an entirely different character from anything we had
previously been accustomed to. The two mountain
summits had disappeared in the fleecy mist, but the
increasing unevenness of the ground showed that we
were approaching them. JNIean while I considered it
inadvisable to come to close quarters with them so long
as we were unable to use our eyes, and, remembering
what happens when the blind leads the blind, we
camped. For the first time during the trip I had a
touch of snow -blindness that afternoon. This trouble-
BAD LIGHT 243
some and rightly dreaded complaint was a thing that we
had hitherto succeeded in keeping off by a judicious use
of our excellent snow-goggles. Among my duties as
forerunner was that of maintaining the direction, and
this, at times, involved a very severe strain on the eyes.
In thick weather it is only too easy to yield to the
temptation of throwing off the protective goggles,
with the idea that one can see better without them.
Although I knew perfectly well what the consequence
would be, I had that afternoon broken the command-
ment of prudence. The trifling smart I felt in my eyes
was cured by keeping the goggles on for a couple of
hours after we were in the tent. Like all other ills,
snow-blindness may easily be dispelled by taking it in
time.
Next morning the sun's disc could just be made out
through a veil of thin stratus clouds, and then the light
was more or less normal again. As soon as we could
see what our surroundings were, it was clear enough
that we had done right in stopping the game of blind
man's buff we had been playing on the previous day.
It might otherwise have had an unpleasant ending.
Right across our line of route and about 500 yards
from our camp the surface was so broken up that it
was more hke a sieve than anything else. In the back-
ground the masses of snow were piled in huge drifts
down a steep slope on the north-west side of the two
mountains. It was impossible to take the sledges any
244 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
farther on the way we had hitherto been following, but
in the course of the day we worked round by a long
detour to the foot of the most westerly of the moun-
tains. We were then about 1,000 feet above the sea;
to the north of us we had the abrupt descent already
mentioned, to the south it was quite flat. Our view to
the east was shut in by the two mountains, and our
first idea was to ascend to the tops of them, but the
powers of the weather again opposed us with their full
force. A stiff south-east wind set in and increased in
the course of half an hour to a regular blizzard. Little
as it suited our wishes, there was nothing to be done
but to creep back into the tent. For a whole month
now we had seen scarcely anything but fair weather,
and the advance of summer had given us hopes that it
would hold; but just when it suited us least of all came
a dismal change.
The light Antarctic summer night ran its course,
while the gusts of wind tugged and tore at the thin
sides of our tent; no snowfall accompanied the south-
easterly wind, but the loose snow of the surface was
whirled up into a drift that stood like an impenetrable
wall round the tent. After midnight it moderated a
little, and by four o'clock there was comparatively fair
weather. We were on our feet at once, put together
camera, glasses, aneroids, axe, Alpine rope, with some
lumps of pemmican to eat on the way, and then went
off for a morning walk with the nearer of the two hills
ASCENT OF SCOTT'S MOUNTAINS 245
as our goal. All three of us went, leaving the dogs
in charge of the camp. They were not so fresh now
that they would not gladly accept all the rest that
was offered them. We had no need to fear any
invasion of strangers; the land we had come to ap-
peared to be absolutely devoid of living creatures of
any kind.
The hill was farther off and higher than it appeared
at first; the aneroid showed a rise of 700 feet when
we reached the top. As our camp lay at a height of
1,000 feet, this gave us 1,700 feet as the height of this
hill above the sea. The side we went up was covered
by 7ieve, which, to judge from the depth of the
cracks, must have been immense. As we approached
the summit and our view over the surrounding ground
became wider, the belief that we should see so much as
a crag of tliis King Edward Land grew weaker and
weaker. There was nothing but white on every side,
not a single consolatory little black patch, however
carefully we looked. And to think that we had been
dreaming of great mountain masses in the style of
McMurdo Sound, with sunny slopes, penguins by the
thousand, seals and all the rest! All these visions were
slowly but surely sunk in an endless sea of snow, and
when at last we stood on the highest point, we certainly
thought there could be no chance of a revival of our
hopes.
But the unexpected happened after all. On the
246 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
precipitous northern side of the adjacent hill our eyes
fell upon bare rock — the first glimpse we had had of
positive land during the year we had been in Antarctica.
Our next thought was of how to get to it and take
specimens, and with tliis object we at once began to
scale the neighbouring liill, which was a trifle higher
than the one we had first ascended. The precipice was,
however, perpendicular, with a huge snow cornice over-
hanging it. Lowering a man on the rope would be
rather too hazardous a proceeding; besides which, a
length of thirty yards would not go very far. If we
were to get at the rock, it would have to be from
below. In the meantime we availed ourselves of the
opportunity offered by the clear weather to make a
closer examination of our surroundings. From the
isolated summit, 1,700 feet high, on which we stood,
the view was fairly extensive. Down to the sea on the
north the distance was about five geographical miles.
The surface descended in terraces towards the edge of
the water, where there was quite a low Barrier wall.
As might be expected, this stretch of the ice-field was
broken by innumerable crevasses, rendering any passage
across it impossible.
On the east extended a well-marked mountain-ridge,
about twenty geographical miles in length, and some-
what lower than the summit on which we stood. This
was the Alexandra Mountains. It could not be called
an imposing range, and it was snow-clad from one end
VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT 247
to the other. Only on the most easterly spur was the
rock just visible.
On the south and south-west nothing was to be seen
but the usual undulating Barrier surface. Biscoe Bay,
as Captain Scott has named it, was for the moment
a gathering-place for numerous icebergs; one or two
of these seemed to be aground. The inmost corner of
the bay was covered with sea-ice. On its eastern side
the Barrier edge could be seen to continue northward,
as marked in Captain Scott's chart; but no indication
of bare land was visible in that quarter.
Having built a snow beacon, 6 feet high, on the
summit, we put on our ski again and went down the
eastern slope of the hill at a whizzing pace. On this
side there was an approach to the level on the north of
the precipice, and we availed ourselves of it. Seen from
below the mountain crest looked quite grand, with a
perpendicular drop of about 1,000 feet. The cliff was
covered with ice up to a height of about 100 feet, and
this circumstance threatened to be a serious obstacle
to our obtaining specimens of the rocks. But in one
place a nunatak about 250 feet high stood out in front
of the precipice, and the ascent of this offered no great
difficulty.
A wall of rock of very ordinary appearance is not
usually reckoned among things capable of attracting the
attention of the human eye to any marked extent;
nevertheless, we three stood and gazed at it, as though
248 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
we had something of extraordinary beauty and interest
before us. The explanation is very simple, if we re-
member the old saying about the charm of variety.
A sailor, who for months has seen nothing but sea and
sky, will lose himself in contemplation of a little islet,
be it never so barren and desolate. To us, who for
nearly a year had been staring our eyes out in a dazzhng
white infinity of snow and ice, it was indeed an experi-
ence to see once more a bit of the earth's crust. That
this fragment was as poor and bare as it could be was
not taken into consideration at the moment.
The mere sight of the naked rock was, however, only
an anticipatory pleasure. A more substantial one was
the feeling of again being able to move on ground that
afforded a sure and trustworthy foothold. It is possible
that we behaved rather like children on first reaching
bare land. One of us, in any case, found immense
enjoyment in rolling one big block after another down
the steep slopes of the nunatak. At any rate, the
sport had the interest of novelty.
This little peak was built up of very heterogeneous
materials. As the practical result of our visit, we
brought away a fairly abundant collection of specimens
of all the rocks to be found there. Not being a
specialist, I cannot undertake any classification of the
specimens. It will be the task of geologists to deal
with them, and to obtain if possible some information
as to the structure of the country. I will only mention
GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS 249
that some of the stones were so heavy that they must
certainly have contained metalHc ore of one kind or
another. On returning to camp that evening, we
tried them with the compass-needle, and it showed
very marked attraction in the case of one or two
of the specimens. These must, therefore, contain
iron-ore.
This spur, which had been severely handled by ice-
pressure and the ravages of time, offered a poor chance
of finding what we coveted most — namely, fossils — and
the most diligent search proved unsuccessful in this
respect. From finds that have been made in other
parts of Antarctica it is known that in former geological
periods — the Jurassic epoch — even this desolate conti-
nent possessed a rich and luxurious vegetation. The
leader of the Swedish expedition to Graham Land, Dr.
Nordenskjold, and his companion, Gunnar Andersson,
were the first to make this exceedingly interesting and
important discovery.
While it did not fall to our lot to furnish any proof
of the existence of an earher flora in King Edward
Land, we found living plants of the most primitive
form. Even on that tiny islet in the ocean of snow
the rock was in many places covered with thick moss.
How did that moss come there? Its occurrence might,
perhaps, be quoted in support of the hypothesis of the
genesis of organic life from dead matter. This disputed
question must here be left open, but it may be men-
voL. II. 42
250 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
tioned in the same connection that we found the
remains of birds' nests in many places among the rocks.
Possibly the occupants of these nests may have been
instrumental in the conveyance of the moss.
Otherwise, the signs of bird life were very few. One
or two solitary snowy petrels circled round the summit
while we were there ; that was all.
It was highly important to obtain some successful
photographs from this spot, and I was setting about
the necessary preparations, when one of my companions
made a remark about the changed appearance of the
sky. Busy with other things, I had entirely neglected
to keep an eye on the weather, an omission for which,
as will be seen, we might have had to pay dearly.
Fortunately, another had been more watchful than I,
and the warning came in time. A glance was enough
to convince me of the imminent approach of a snow-
storm; the fiery red sky and the heavy ring round the
sun spoke a language that was only too clear. We had
a good hour's march to the tent, and the possibility of
being surprised by the storm before we arrived was
practically equivalent to never arriving at all.
We very soon put our things together, and came
down the nunatak even more quickly. On the steep
slopes leading up to the plateau on which the tent
stood the pace was a good deal slower, though we made
every possible effort to hurry. There was no need to
trouble about the course; we had only to follow the
A RACE FOR THE TENT 251
trail of our own ski — so long as it was visible. But the
drift was beginning to blot it out, and if it once did
that, any attempt at finding the tent would be hopeless.
For a long and anxious quarter of an hour it looked as
if we should be too late, until at last the tent came in
sight, and we were saved. We had escaped the blizzard
so far; a few minutes later it burst in all its fury, and
the whirling snow was so thick that it would have been
impossible to see the tent at a distance of ten paces, but
by then we were all safe and sound inside. Ravenously
hungry after the twelve hours that had passed since our
last proper meal, we cooked an extra large portion of
pemmican and the same of chocolate, and with this
sumptuous repast we celebrated the event of the day —
the discovery of land. From what we had seen in the
course of the day it might be regarded as certain that
we should be disappointed in our hopes of finding any
great and interesting field for our labours in this
quarter; King Edward Land was still far too well
hidden under eternal snow and ice to give us that. But
even the establishment of this, to us, somewhat un-
welcome fact marked an increase of positive human
knowledge of the territory that bears the name of King
Edward VII. ; and with the geological specimens that
we had collected, we were in possession of a tangible
proof of the actual existence of soHd ground in a region
which otherwise bore the greatest resemblance to what
we called " Barrier " elsewhere, or in any case to the
252 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
Barrier as it appears in the neighbourhood of our winter-
quarters at Framheim.
Monday, December 4. — The gale kept on at full force
all night, and increased rather than moderated as the
day advanced. As usual, the storm was accompanied
by a very marked rise of temperature. At the noon
observation to-day the reading was + 26'6° F. This is
the highest temperature we have had so far on this trip,
and a good deal higher than we care about. When the
mercury comes so near freezing-point as this, the floor
of the tent is always damp.
To-day, for once in a way, we have falling snow,
and enough of it. It is snowing incessantly — big, hard
flakes, almost like hail. When the cooker was filled to
provide water for dinner, the half-melted mass looked
like sago. The heavy flakes of snow make a noise
against the tent that reminds one of the safety-valve
of a large boiler blowing off. Inside the tent it is
difficult to hear oneself speak; when we have anything
to say to each other we have to shout.
These days of involuntary idleness on a sledge journey
may safely be reckoned among the experiences it is
difficult to go through without a good deal of mental
sufi^ering. I say nothing of the purely physical dis-
comfort of having to pass the day in a sleeping-bag.
That may be endured ; in any case, so long as the bag
is fairly dry. It is a far worse matter to reconcile one-
self to the loss of the many solid hours that might
FOOD RUNNING SHORT 253
otherwise have been put to a useful purpose, and to the
irritating consciousness that every bit of food that is
consumed is so much wasted of the limited store. At
this spot of all others w^e should have been so glad
to spend the time in exploring round about, or still
more in going farther. But if we are to go on, we
must be certain of having a chance of getting seals at a
reasonable distance from here. With our remaining
supply of dogs' food we cannot go on for more than
three days.
What we have left will be just enough for the return
journey, even if we should not find the depot of seals'
flesh left on the way. There remained the resource of
killing dogs, if it was a question of getting as far to the
east as possible, but for many reasons I shrank from
availing myself of that expedient. We could form no
idea of what would happen to the southern party's
animals. The probability was that they would have
none left on their return. Supposing their return were
delayed so long as to involve spending another winter
on the Barrier, the transport of supphes from the ship
could hardly be carried out in the necessary time with
the ten untrained puppies that were left with Lind-
strom. We had picked out the useful ones, and I
thought that, should the necessity arise, they could be
used with greater advantage for this work than we
should derive from slaughtering them here, and thereby
somewhat prolonging the distance covered ; the more so
254 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
as, to judge from all appearance, there was a poor pros-
pect of our finding anything of interest within a reason-
able time.
Tuesday, December 5. — It looks as if our patience
is to be given a really hard trial this time. Outside the
same state of things continues, and the barometer is
going down. A mass of snow has fallen in the last
twenty-four hours. The drift on the windward side of the
tent is constantly growing ; if it keeps on a little longer
it will be as high as the top of the tent. The sledges are
completely snowed under, and so are the dogs; we had
to haul them out one by one in the middle of the day.
Most of them are now loose, as there is nothing exposed
to the attacks of their teeth. It is now blowing a regular
gale; the direction of the wind is about true east.
Occasionally squalls of hurricane-like violence occur.
Fortunately the big snow-drift keeps us comfortable,
and we are under the lee of a hill, otherwise it would
look badly for our tent. Hitherto it has held well, but it
is beginning to be rather damp inside. The tempera-
ture remains very high (+ 27'2° F. at noon to-day) , and
the mass of snow pressing against the tent causes the
formation of rime.
In order to while away the time to some extent under
depressing circumstances like these, I put into my diary
on leaving Framheim a few loose leaves of a Russian
grammar; Johansen solaced himself with a serial cut out
of the Aftenpost; as far as I remember, the title of it
FIRST IN KING EDWARD LAND.
IN KING EDWARD LAND : AFTER A THREE DAYS' STORM.
To jace parte 254, Vol. 11.
STILL WEATHER-BOUND 255
was " The Red Rose and the White." Unfortunately
the story of the Two Roses was very soon finished ; but
Johansen had a good remedy for that : he simply began
it over again. My reading had the advantage of being
incomparably stiffer. Russian verbs are uncommonly
difficult of digestion, and not to be swallowed in a hurry.
For lack of mental nutriment, Stubberud with great
resignation consoled himself with a pipe, but his enjoy-
ment must have been somewhat diminished by the
thought that his stock of tobacco was shrinking at an
alarming rate. Every time he filled his pipe, I could
see him cast longing looks in the direction of my pouch,
which was still comparatively full. I could not help
promising a fraternal sharing in case he should run short ;
and after that our friend puffed on with an easy mind.
Although I look at it at least every half -hour, the
barometer will not go up. At 8 p.m. it was down to
2730. If tliis means anything, it can only be that we
shall have the pleasure of being imprisoned here another
day. Some poor consolation is to be had in the thought
of how lucky we were to reach the tent at the last
moment the day before yesterday. A storm as lasting
as this one would in all probability have been too much
for us if we had not got in.
Wednesday, December 6. — The third day of idleness
has at last crept away after its predecessors. We have
done with it. It has not brought any marked variation.
The weather has been just as violent, until now — 8 p.m. —
256 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
the wind shows a slight tendency to moderate. It is,
surely, time it did; three days and nights should be
enough for it. The heavy snowfall continues. Big,
wet flakes come dancing down through the opening
in the drift in which the peak of the tent still manages
to show itself. In the course of three days we have had
more snowfall here than we had at Framheim in ten
whole months. It will be interesting to compare our
meteorological log with Lindstrom's; probably he has
had his share of the storm, and in that case it will have
given him some exercise in snow-shovelling.
The moisture is beginning to be rather troublesome
now; most of our wardrobe is wet through, and the
sleeping-bags will soon meet with the same fate. The
snow-drift outside is now so high that it shuts out most
of the daylight; we are in twilight. To-morrow we
shall be obliged to dig out the tent, whatever the
weather is like, otherwise we shall be buried entirely,
and run the additional risk of having the tent spht by
the weight of snow. I am afraid it will be a day's work
to dig out the tent and the two sledges; we have only
one little shovel to do it with.
A slight rise of both barometer and thermometer tells
us that at last we are on the eve of the change we have
been longing for. Stubberud is certain of fair weather
to-morrow, he says. I am by no means so sure, and
offer to bet pretty heavily that there will be no change.
Two inches of Norwegian plug tobacco is the stake,
DIGGING OUT THE TENT 257
and with a heartfelt desire that Jorgen may win I await
the morrow.
Thursday, December 7. — Early this morning I owned
to having lost my bet, as the weather, so far as I could
tell, was no longer of the same tempestuous character;
but Stubberud thought the contrary. " It seems to me
just as bad," said he. He was right enough, as a matter
of fact, but this did not prevent my persuading him to
accept payment. Meanwhile we were obliged to make
an attempt to dig out the tent, regardless of the weather ;
the situation was no longer endurable. We waited all
the forenoon in the hope of an improvement; but as
none came, we set to work at twelve o'clock. Our
implements showed some originality and diversity: a
little spade, a biscuit-tin, and a cooker. The drift did
its best to undo our work as fast as we dug, but we
managed to hold our own against it. Digging out the
tent-pegs gave most trouble. After six hours' hard
work we got the tent set up a few yards to windward of
its first position; the place where it had stood was now
a well about seven feet deep. Unfortunately there was
no chance of immortalizing this scene of excavation. It
would have been amusing enough to have it on the
plate; but drifting snow is a serious obstacle to an
amateur photographer — besides which, my camera was
on Stubberud's sledge, buried at least four feet down.
In the course of our digging we had had the misfortune
to make two or three serious rents in the thin canvas of
258 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
the tent, and the drift was not long in finding a way-
through these when the tent was up again. To con-
clude my day's work I had, therefore, a longish tailor's
job, while the other two men were digging out a good
feed for the dogs, who had been on half-rations for the
last two days. That night we went rather short of
sleep. Vulcan, the oldest dog in Johansen's team,
was chiefly to blame for this. In his old age Vulcan
was afflicted with a bad digestion, for even Eskimo dogs
may be liable to this infirmity, hardy as they generally
are. The protracted blizzard had given the old fellow
a relapse, and he proclaimed this distressing fact by
incessant howling. This kind of music was not calcu-
lated to lull us to sleep, and it was three or four in the
morning before we could snatch a nap. During a pause
I was just dropping off, when the sun showed faintly
through the tent. This unwonted sight at once banished
all further thoughts of sleep ; the Primus was lighted, a
cup of chocolate swallowed, and out we went. Stubberud
and Johansen set to work at the hard task of digging
out the sledges ; they had to go down four feet to get hold
of them. I dragged our wet clothes, sleeping-bags, and
so forth out of the tent, and hung them all up to dry.
In the course of the morning observations were taken
for determining the geographical longitude and latitude,
as well as a few photographs, which will give some idea
of what our camp looked like after the blizzard.
Having made good the damage and put everything
a.
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SCOTT'S NUNATAKS 259
fairly in order, we hurried away to our peaks, to secure
some photographs while the light was favourable. This
time we were able to achieve our object. " Scott's
Nunataks,"as they were afterwards named — after Captain
Scott, who first saw them — were now for the first time
recorded by the camera. Before we left the summit the
Norwegian flag was planted there, a snow beacon erected,
and a report of our visit deposited in it. The weather
would not keep clear; before we were back at the camp
there was a thick fog, and once more we had to thank
the tracks of our ski for showing us the way. During
the time we had been involuntarily detained at this
spot, our store of provisions had decreased alarmingly;
there was only a bare week's supply left, and in less than
a week we should hardly be able to make home;
probably it would take more than a week, but in that
case we had the depot at our Bay of Seals to fall back
upon. In the immediate neighbourhood of our present
position we could not reckon on being able to replenish
our supj)ly in the continued unfavourable state of the
weather. We therefore made up our minds on the
morning of December 9 to break off the journey and
turn our faces homeward. For three days more we had
to struggle with high wind and thick snow, but as things
now were, we had no choice but to keep going, and by
the evening of the 11th we had dragged ourselves fifty
geographical miles to the west. The weather cleared
during the night, and at last, on December 12, we had
260 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
a day of real sunshine. All our discomforts were
forgotten ; everything went easily again. In the course
of nine hours we covered twenty-six geographical miles
that day, without any great strain on either dogs or
men.
At our midday rest we found ourselves abreast of the
bay, where, on the outward journey, we had laid down
our depot of seals' flesh. I had intended to turn aside
to the depot and replenish our supply of meat as a pre-
caution, but Johansen suggested leaving out this detour
and going straight on. We might thereby run the risk
of having to go on short rations ; but Johansen thought
it a greater risk to cross the treacherous ground about
the bay, and, after some deliberation, I saw he was
right. It was better to go on while we were about it.
From this time on we met with no difficulty, and
rapidly drew near to our destination in regular daily
marches of twenty geographical miles. After men and
dogs had received their daily ration on the evening
of the 15th, our sledge cases were practically empty;
but, according to our last position, we should not have
more than twenty geographical miles more to Framheim.
Saturday, December 16. — We broke camp at the
usual time, in overcast but perfectly clear weather, and
began what was to be our last day's march on this trip.
A dark water-sky hung over the Barrier on the west
and north-west, showing that there was open sea off the
mouth of the Bay of Whales. We went on till 10.30,
BACK AT FRAMHEIM 261
our course being true west, when we made out far to
the north-west an ice-cape that was taken to be the
extreme point on the western side of the bay. Imme-
diately after we were on the edge of the Barrier, the
direction of which was here south-west and north-east.
We altered our course and followed the edge at a proper
distance until we saw a familiar iceberg that had broken
off to the north of Framheim, but had been stopped by
the sea-ice from drifting out. With this excellent mark
in view the rest of the way was plain sailing. The
sledge-meter showed 19*5 geographical miles, when in
the afternoon we came in sight of our winter home.
Quiet and peaceful it lay there, if possible more deeply
covered in snow than when we had left it. At first we
could see no sign of hf e, but soon the glasses discovered
a lonely wanderer on his way from the house to the
"meteorological institute." So Lindstrom was still
alive and performing his duties.
When we left, our friend had expressed his satisfaction
at " getting us out of the way " ; but I have a suspicion
that he was quite as pleased to see us back again. I
am not quite certain, though, that he did see us for the
moment, as he was about as snow-blind as a man can
be. Lindstrom was the last person we should have
suspected of that malady. On our asking liim how it
came about, he seemed at first unwilling to give any
explanation; but by degrees it came out that the mis-
fortune had happened a couple of days before, when
262 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
he had gone out after seals. His team, composed of
nothing but puppies, had run away and pulled up at
a big hummock out by the western cape, ten miles from
the station. But Lindstrom, who is a determined man,
would not give up before he had caught the runaways;
and this was too much for his eyes, as he had no goggles
with him. *' When I got home I couldn't see what the
time was," he said; " but it must have been somewhere
about six in the morning." When we had made him
put on plenty of red eye-ointment and supplied him
with a proper pair of goggles, he was soon cured.
Framheim had had the same protracted storms with
heavy snowfall. On several mornings the master of the
house had had to dig his way out through the snow-
wall outside the door; but during the last three fine
days he had managed to clear a passage, not only to
the door, but to the window as well. Daylight came
down into the room through a well nine feet deep. This
had been a tremendous piece of work; but, as already
hinted, nothing can stop Lindstrom when he makes
up his mind. His stock of seals' flesh was down to
a minimum; the little there was vanished on the ap-
pearance of our ravenous dogs. We ourselves were in
no such straits; sweets were the only things in special
demand.
We stayed at home one day. After bringing up two
loads of seals' flesh, filling our empty provision cases,
carrying out a number of small repairs, and checking
EXPLORING THE BAY 263
our watches, we were again on the road on Monday
the 18th. We were not very loth to leave the house;
indoor existence had become rather uncomfortable on
account of constant dripping from the ceiling. In the
course of the winter a quantity of ice had formed in the
loft. As the kitchen fire was always going after our
return, the temperature became high enough to melt
the ice, and the water streamed down. Lindstrom was
annoyed and undertook to put a stop to it. He dis-
appeared into the loft, and sent down a hail of ice,
bottle-straw, broken cases, and other treasures through
the trap-door. We fled before the storm and drove
away. This time we had to carry out our instructions
as to the exploration of the long eastern arm of the Bay
of Whales. During the autumn several Sunday excur-
sions had been made along this remarkable formation;
but although some of these ski-runs had extended as far
as twelve miles in one direction, there was no sign of
the hummocks coming to an end. These great dis-
turbances of the ice-mass must have a cause, and the
only conceivable one was that the subjacent land had
brought about this disruption of the surface. For
immediately to the south there was undoubtedly land,
as there the surface rose somewhat rapidly to a height
of 1,000 feet; but it was covered with snow. There
was a possibility that the rock might project among the
evidences of heavy pressure at the foot of tliis slope;
and with this possibility in view we made a five days'
264 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
trip, following the great fissure, or "bay," as we generally-
called it, right up to its head, twenty-three geographical
miles to the east of our winter-quarters.
Although we came across no bare rock, and in that
respect the journey was a disappointment, it was never-
theless very interesting to observe the effects of the
mighty forces that had here been at work, the disrup-
tion of the solid ice-sheath by the still more solid rock.
The day before Christmas Eve we were back at
Framheim. Lindstrom had made good use of his time
in our absence. The ice had disappeared from the loft,
and therewith the rain from the ceiling. New linoleum
had been laid down over half the floor, and marks of the
paint-brush were visible on the ceiling. These efforts
had possibly been made with an eye to the approaching
festival, but in other respects we abstained from any
attempt at keeping Christmas. It did not agree with
the time of year; constant blazing sunshine all through
the twenty-four hours could not be reconciled with a
northerner's idea of Christmas. And for that reason
we had kept the festival six months before. Christmas
Eve fell on a Sunday, and it passed just like any ordinary
Sunday. Perhaps the only difference was that we used
a razor that day instead of the usual beard-clipper. On
Christmas Day we took a holiday, and Lindstrom pre-
pared a banquet of skua gulls. Despise this dish as
one may, it tasted undeniably of — bird.
The numerous snow-houses were now in a sad way.
A TRIP TO THE WEST 265
Under the weight of the constantly increasing mass, the
roofs of most of the rooms were pressed so far in that
there was just enough space to crawl on hands and
knees. In the Crystal Palace and the Clothing Store
we kept all our skin clothing, besides a good deal of
outfit, which it was intended to take on board the Fram
when she and the southern party arrived. If the sinking
continued, it would be a long business digging these
things out again, and in order to have everything ready
we made up our minds to devote a few days to this
work at once. We hauled the snow up from these two
rooms through a well twelve feet deep by means of
tackles. It was a long job, but when we had finished
this part of the labyrinth was as good as ever. We had
no time to deal with the vapour-bath or the carpenter's
shop just then. There still remained the survey of the
south-western corner of the Bay of Whales and its
surroundings. On an eight days' sledge journey, start-
ing at the New Year, we ranged about this district,
where we were surprised to find the solid Barrier divided
into small islands, separated by comparatively broad
sounds. These isolated masses of ice could not possiblj''
be afloat, although the depth in one or two places, where
we had a chance of making soundings, proved to be as
much as 200 fathoms. The only rational explanation
we could think of was that there must be a group of
low-lying islands here, or in any case shoals. These
*' ice islands," if one may call them so, had a height of
VOL. II. 43
266 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
90 feet and sloped evenly down to the water on the
greater part of their circumference. One of the sounds,
that penetrated into the Barrier a short distance inside
the western cape of the bay, continued southward and
gradually narrowed to a mere fissure. We followed
this until it lost itself, thirty geographical miles within
the Barrier.
The last day of this trip — Thursday, January 11 — will
always be fixed in our memory; it was destined to
bring us experiences of the kind that are never for-
gotten. Our start in the morning was made at exactly
the same time and in exactly the same way as so many
times before. We felt pretty certain of reaching Fram-
heim in the course of the day, but that prospect was for
the moment of minor importance. In the existing state
of the weather our tent offered us as comfortable
quarters as our snowed-up winter home. What made
us look forward to our return with some excitement was
the possibility of seeing the Fram again, and this
thought was no doubt in the minds of all of us that
January morning, though we did not say much about it.
After two hours' march we caught sight of West
Cape, at the entrance to the bay, in our line of route,
and a little later we saw a black strip of sea far out on
the horizon. As usual, a number of bergs of all sizes
were floating on this strip, in every variety of shade from
white to dark grey, as the light fell on them. One
particular lump appeared to us so dark that it could
THE "FRAM" SIGHTED 267
hardly be made of ice; but we had been taken in too
many times to make any remark about it.
As the dogs now had a mark to go by, Johansen was
driving in front without my help ; I went by the side of
Stubberud's sledge. The man at my side kept staring
out to sea, without uttering a word. On my asking
him what in the world he was looking at, he replied:
" I could almost swear it was a ship, but of course it's
only a wretched iceberg." We were just agreed upon
this, when suddenly Johansen stopped short and began
a hurried search for his long glass. " Are you going to
look at the Framf I asked ironically. " Yes, I am,"
he said; and while he turned the telescope upon the
doubtful object far out in Ross Sea, we two stood
waiting for a few endless seconds. " It's the Fram^ sure
enough, as large as life!" was the welcome announce-
ment that broke our suspense. I glanced at Stubberud
and saw his face expanding into its most amiable smile.
Though I had not much doubt of the correctness of
Johansen's statement, I borrowed his glass, and a
fraction of a second was enough to convince me. That
ship was easily recognized; she was our own old Fram
safely back again.
We had still fourteen long miles to Framheim and an
obstinate wind right in our faces, but that part of the
way was covered in a remarkably short time. On
arriving at home at two in the afternoon we had some
expectation of finding a crowd of people in front of the
268 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
house; but there was not a living soul to be seen.
Even Lindstrom remained concealed, though as a rule
he was always about when anyone arrived. Thinking
that perhaps our friend had had a relapse of snow-
bhndness, I went in to announce our return. Lindstrom
was standing before his range in the best of health
when I entered the kitchen. " The Frains come!" he
shouted, before I had shut the door. " Tell me some-
thing I don't know," said I, " and be so kind as to give
me a cup of water with a little syrup in it if you can."
I thought somehow that the cook had a sly grin on his
face when he brought what I asked for, but with the
thirst I had after the stiff march, I gave a great part of
mv attention to the drink. I had consumed the best
part of a quart, when Lindstrom went off to his bunk
and asked if I could guess what he had hidden there.
There was no time to guess anything before the blankets
were thrown on to the floor, and after them bounded a
bearded ruffian clad in a jersey and a pair of overalls of
indeterminable age and colour. "Hullo!" said the
ruffian, and the voice was that of Lieutenant Gjertsen.
Lindstrom was shaking with laughter while I stood
open-mouthed before this apparition ; I had been given
a good surprise. We agreed to treat Johansen and
Stubberud in the same way, and as soon as they were
heard outside, Gjertsen hid himself again among the
blankets. But Stubbenid had smelt a rat in some way
or other. " There are more than two in this room," he
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A VISITOR FROM THE SHIP 269
said, as soon as he came in. It was no surprise to him
to find a man from the Fram in Lindstrom's bunk.
When we heard that the visitor had been under our
roof for a whole day, we assumed that in the course of
that time he had heard all about our own concerns from
Lindstrom. We were therefore not inclined to talk
about ourselves; we wanted news from without, and
Gjertsen was more than ready to give us them. The
Fram had arrived two days before, all well. After lying
at the ice edge for a day and a night, keeping a constant
lookout for the "natives," Gjertsen had grown so curious
to know how things were at Framheim that he had
asked Captain Nilsen for " shore leave." The careful
skipper had hesitated a while before giving permission;
it was a long way up to the house, and the sea-ice was
scored with lanes, some of them fairly wide. Finally
Gjertsen had his way, and he left the ship, taking a signal
flag with him. He found it rather difficult to recognize
his surroundings, to begin with ; one ice cape was very like
another, and ugly ideas of calvings suggested themselves,
until at last he caught sight of Cape Man's Head, and
then he knew that the foundations of Framheim had not
given way. Cheered by this knowledge, he made his
way towards Mount Nelson, but on arriving at the top
of this ridge, from which there was a view over
Framheim, the eager explorer felt his heart sink. Where
our new house had made such a brave show a year
before on the surface of the Barrier, there was now no
270 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
house at all to be seen. All that met the eyes of the
visitor was a sombre pile of ruins. But his anxiety
quickly vanished when a man emerged from the confu-
sion. The man was Lindstrom, and the supposed ruin
was the most ingenious of all winter-quarters. Lindstrom
was ignorant of the Fratris arrival, and the face he
showed on seeing Gjertsen must have been worth some
money to look at.
When our first curiosity was satisfied, our thoughts
turned to our comrades on board the Fram. We
snatched some food, and then went down to the sea-ice,
making our way across the little bay due north of the
house. Our well-trained team were not long in getting
there, but we had some trouble with them in crossing
the cracks in the ice, as some of the dogs, especially the
puppies, had a terror of water.
The Fram was cruising some way out, but when we
came near enough for them to see us, they made all
haste to come in to the ice-foot. Yes, there lay om*
good little ship, as trim as when we had last seen her ;
the long voyage round the world had left no mark
on her strong hull. Along the bulwarks appeared a row
of smiling faces, which we were able to recognize in spite
of the big beards that half concealed many of them.
While clean-shaven chins had been the fashion at
Framheim, almost every man on board appeared with
a flowing beard. As we came over the gangway
questions began to hail upon us. I had to ask for a
ON BOARD THE " FRAM " 271
moment's grace to give the captain and crew a hearty
shake of the hand, and then I collected them all about
me and gave a short account of the most important
events of the past year. When this was done, Captain
Nilsen pulled me into the chart-house, where we had a
talk that lasted till about four the next morning — to both
of us certainly one of the most interesting we have ever
had. On Nilsen's asking about the prospects of the
southern party, I ventured to assure liim that in all
probability we should have our Chief and his companions
back in a few days with the Pole in their pockets.
Our letters from home brought nothing but good
news. What interested us most in the newspapers was,
of course, the account of how the expedition's change of
route had been received.
At 8 a.m. we left the Fram and returned home. For
the next few days we were occupied with the work of
surveying and charting, which went comparatively
quickly in the favourable weather. When we returned
after our day's work on the afternoon of the 17th, we
found Lieutenant Gjertsen back at the hut. He asked
us if we could guess the news, and as we had no answer
ready, he told us that the ship of the Japanese expedition
had arrived. We hurriedly got out the cinematograph
apparatus and the camera, and went off as fast as the
dogs could go, since Gjertsen thought this visit would
not be of long duration.
When we caught sight of the Fram she had her flag
272 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
up, and just beyond the nearest cape lay the Kainan
Maru, with the ensign of the Rising Sun at the peak.
Banzai ! We had come in time. Although it was
rather late in the evening, Nilsen and I decided to pay
her a visit, and if possible to see the leader of the expedi-
tion. We were received at the gangway by a young,
smiling fellow, who beamed still more when I produced
the only Japanese word I knew: Oheio — Good-day.
There the conversation came to a full stop, but soon
a number of the inquisitive sons of Nippon came up, and
some of them understood a little English. We did not
get very far, however. We found out that the Kainan
Maru had been on a cruise in the direction of King
Edward VII. Land ; but we could not ascertain whether
any landing had been attempted or not.
As the leader of the expedition and the captain of the
ship had turned in, we did not want to disturb them by
prolonging our visit; but we did not escape before the
genial first officer had offered us a glass of wine and
a cigar in the chart -house. With an invitation to come
again next day, and permission to take some photo-
graphs, we returned to the Fram; but nothing came of
the projected second \'isit to our Japanese friends. Both
ships put out to sea in a gale that sprang up during the
night, and before we had another opportunity of going on
board tlie Kainan Maru the southern party had returned.
The days immediately preceding the departure of the
expedition for the north fell about the middle of the
Pi
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A VISIT TO THE JAPANESE 273
short Antarctic summer, just at the time when the
comparatively rich animal life of the Bay of Whales
shows itself at its best.
The name of the Bay of Whales is due to Shackleton,
and is appropriate enough; for from the time of the
break-up of the sea-ice this huge inlet in the Barrier
forms a favourite playground for whales, of which we
often saw schools of as many as fifty disporting them-
selves for hours together. We had no means of dis-
turbing their peaceful sport, although the sight of all
these monsters, each worth a small fortune, was well
calculated to make our fingers itch. It was the whaling
demon that possessed us.
For one who has no special knowledge of the industry
it is difficult to form an adequate opinion as to whether
this part of Antarctica is capable of ever becoming a
field for whaling enterprise. In any case, it will prob-
ably be a long time before such a thing happens. In
the first place, the distance to the nearest inhabited
country is very great — over 2,000 geographical miles —
and in the second, there is a serious obstruction on this
route in the shape of the belt of pack-ice, which, narrow
and loose as it may be at times, will always necessitate
the employment of timber-built vessels for the work of
transport.
The conditions prevailing in the Bay of Whales must
presumably offer a decisive obstacle to the establishment
of a permanent station. Our winter house was snowed
274 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
under in the course of two months, and to us this was
only a source of satisfaction, as our quarters became all
the warmer on this account; but whether a whaling
station would find a similar fate equally convenient is
rather doubtful.
Lastly, it must be said that, although in the bay
itself huge schools of whales were of frequent occur-
rence, we did not receive the impression that there was
any very great number of them out in Ross Sea. The
species most commonly seen was the Finner; after that
the Blue Whale.
As regards seals, they appeared in great quantities
along the edge of the Barrier so long as the sea-ice still
lay there; after the break-up of the ice the Bay of
Whales was a favourite resort of theirs all through the
summer. This was due to its offering them an easy
access to the dry surface, where they could abandon
themselves to their favourite occupation of basking in
the sunshine.
During our whole stay we must have killed some two
hundred and fifty of them, by far the greater number of
which were shot in the autumn immediately after our
arrival. This little inroad had no appreciable effect.
The numerous survivors, who had been eye-witnesses of
their companions' sudden death, did not seem to have
the slightest idea that the Bay of Whales had become
for the time being a somewhat unsafe place of residence.
As early as September, wliile the ice still stretched
SEALS ON SEA-ICE NEAR THE BARRIER.
SEALS : MOTHER AND CALF.
To face X'0.fje Tii, Vol. 11.
WHALES AND SEALS 275
for miles out into Ross Sea, the first seal found occasion
to come up into daylight through one of the numerous
pressure cracks in the bay. To us this was the first
sure sign of spring; for the seal it was a leap into
eternity.
Of the three different species we met with — the
Weddell, the sea-leopard, and the crab-eater — the first-
named was by far the most numerous. The Weddell
seal is an extremely awkward and clumsy animal, that
fully understands the art of not hurrying ; this, of course,
applies only to its movements out of the water. A full-
grown bull is almost as large as a walrus, and must
certainly weigh something like 8 hundredweight. A
ridiculously small head is set upon its heavy body, and
its mouth is provided with teeth about as innocuous as
those of the domestic cow. The skins vary from light
grey to brownish black.
The sea-leopard was far more rare in these parts. In
the bay itself it was not found; the few specimens we
saw were met with in the pack-ice. As far as I know,
we only secured a couple of them. The sea-leopard is a
far more dangerous fellow than his cousin the Weddell
seal. He is almost as big, but his body is very much
more lithe and agile ; he has a mouth full of long, sharp
teeth, and is always ready to use this weapon. He
is not to be approached without a certain caution,
and in the water he must be an extremely unpleasant
opponent.
276 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
The name crab-eater may possibly evoke ideas of
some ferocious creature; in that case it is misleading.
The animal that bears it is, without question, the most
amicable of the three species. It is of about the same size
as our native seal, brisk and active in its movements, and
is constantly exercising itself in high jumps from the
water on to the ice-foot. Even on the ice it can work
its way along so fast that it is all a man can do to keep
up. Its skin is extraordinarily beautiful — grey, wdth a
sheen of silver and small dark spots.
One is often asked whether seal's flesh does not taste
of train oil. It seems to be a common assumption that
it does so. This, however, is a mistake; the oil and the
taste of it are only present in the layer of blubber, an
inch thick, which covers the seal's body like a protective
armour. The flesh itself contains no fat; on the other
hand, it is extremely rich in blood and its taste in con-
sequence reminds one of black-puddings. The flesh of
the Weddell seal is very dark in colour; in the frying-
pan it turns quite black. The flesh of the crab-eater
is of about the same colour as beef, and to us, at any
rate, its taste was equally good. We therefore always
tried to get crab-eater when providing food for our-
selves.
We found the penguins as amusing as the seals were
useful. So much has been written recently about these
remarkable creatures, and they Iiave been photographed
and cinematographed so many times, that everyone is
PENGUINS 27T
acquainted with them. Nevertheless, anyone who sees
a living penguin for the first time will always be at-
tracted and interested, both by the dignified Emperor
penguin, with his three feet of stature, and by the
bustling little Adelie.
Not only in their upright walk, but also in their
manners and antics, these birds remind one strikingly of
human beings. It has been remarked that an Emperor
is the very image of "an old gentleman in evening
dress," and the resemblance is indeed very notice-
able. It becomes still more so when the Emperor —
as is always his habit — approaches the stranger with
a series of ceremonious bows; such is their good
breeding !
When this ceremony is over, the penguin will usually
come quite close; he is entirely unsuspecting and is not
frightened even if one goes slowly towards him. On
the other hand, if one approaches rapidly or touches
him, he is afraid and immediately takes to flight. It
sometimes happens, though, that he shows fight, and
then it is wiser to keep out of range of his flippers ; for
in these he has a very powerful weapon, which might
easily break a man's arm. If you wish to attack him, it
is better to do so from behind; both flippers must be
seized firmly at the same time and bent backwards along
his back; then the fight is over.
The little Adelie is always comic. On meeting a
flock of these little busybodies the most ill-humoured
278 THE EASTERN SLEDGE JOURNEY
observer is forced to burst into laughter. During the
first weeks of our stay in the Bay of Whales, while we
were still unloading stores, it was always a welcome
distraction to see a flock of Adelie penguins, to the
number of a dozen or so, suddenly jump out of the
water, as though at a word of command, and then sit
still for some moments, stiff with astonishment at the
extraordinary things they saw. When they had recovered
from the first surprise, they generally dived into the sea
again, but their intense curiosity soon drove them back
to look at us more closely.
In contradistinction to their calm and self -controlled
relative, the Emperor penguin, these active little creatures
have an extremely fiery temperament, which makes them
fly into a passion at the slightest interference with their
affairs; and this, of course, only makes them still more
amusing.
The penguins are birds of passage; they spend the
winter on the various small groups of islands that are
scattered about the southern ocean. On the arrival of
spring they betake themselves to Antarctica, where
they have their regular rookeries in places where there
is bare ground. They have a pronounced taste for
roaming, and as soon as the chicks are grown they set
out, young and old together, on their travels. It was
only as tourists that the penguins visited Framheim and
its environs; for there was, of course, no bare land in
our neighbourhood that might offer them a place of
A GROUP OF ADKLIE PENGUINS.
A QUIET PIPE.
To face pMje i'iS, rol. I!.
HABITS OF THE PENGUINS 279
residence. For this reason we really saw comparatively
little of them; an Emperor was a very rare visitor;
but the few occasions on which we met these peculiar
" bird people " of Antarctica will remain among the
most delightful memories of our stay in the Bay of
Whales.
CHAPTER XVI
THE VOYAGE OF THE "FRAM"
By First-Lieutenant Thorvcdd Nilsen
I.
From Norway to the Barrier.
After the Frain had undergone extensive repairs in
Horten Dockyard, and had loaded provisions and equip-
ment in Christiania, we left the latter port on June 7,
1910. According to the plan we were first to make an
oceanographical cruise of about two months in tlie
North Atlantic, and then to return to Norway, where
the Fram was to be docked and the remaining outfit
and dogs taken on board.
This oceanographical cruise was in many respects
successful. In the first place, we gained familiarity with
the vessel, and got everything shipshape for the long
voyage to come; but the best of all was, that we acquired
valuable experience of our auxiliary engine. This is a
180 h.p. Diesel motor, constructed for solar oil, of
which we were taking about 90,000 litres (about 19,800
gallons). In this connection it may be mentioned that
280
FIRST-LIEUTENANT THORVALD NILSEN, NORWEGIAN NAVY.
To/ace 7i((;/c 280, Vol. 11
THE PRELIMINARY CRUISE 281
we consumed about 500 litres (about 110 gallons) a day,
and that the Fram's radius of action was thus about six
months. For the first day or two the engine went well
enough, but after that it went slower and slower, and
finally stopped of its own accord. After this it was
known as the " Whooping Cough." This happened
several times in the course of the trip; the piston-rods
had constantly to be taken out and cleared of a thick
black deposit. As possibly our whole South Polar
Expedition would depend on the motor doing its work
properly, the result of this was that the projected cruise
was cut short, and after a lapse of three weeks our course
was set for Bergen, where we changed the oil for refined
paraffin, and at the same time had the motor thoroughly
overhauled.
Since then there has never been anything wrong with
the engine.
From Bergen we went to Christiansand, where the
Fram was docked, and, as already mentioned, the
remaining outfit, with the dogs and dog-food, was
taken on board.
The number of living creatures on board when we
left Norway was nineteen men, ninety-seven dogs, four
pigs, six carrier pigeons, and one canary.
At last we were ready to leave Christiansand on
Thursday, August 9, 1910, and at nine o'clock that
evening the anchor was got up and the motor started.
After the busy time we had had, no doubt we were all
VOL. II. 44
282 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAJNI "
glad to get off. As our departure had not been
made public, only the pilot and a few acquaintances
accompanied us a little way out. It was glorious
weather, and everyone stayed on deck till far into the
light night, watching the land slowly disappear. All
the ninety-seven dogs were chained round the deck, on
which we also had coal, oil, timber and other things, so
that there was not much room to move about.
The rest of the vessel was absolutely full. To take an
example, in the fore-saloon we had placed forty-three
sledging cases, which were filled with books, Christmas
presents, underclothing, and the like. In addition to
these, one hundred complete sets of dog-harness, all our
ski, ski-poles, snow-shoes, etc. Smaller articles were
stowed in the cabins, and every man had something.
When I complained, as happened pretty often, that
I could not imagine where this or that was to be put,
the Chief of the expedition used generally to say: " Oh,
that's all right; you can just put it in your cabin!"
Thus it was with every imaginable thing — from barrels
of paraffin and new-born pups to writing materials and
charts.
As the story of this voyage has already been told,
it may be rapidly passed over here. After much delay
through headwinds in the Channel, we picked up the
north-east trade in about the latitude of Gibraltar, and
arrived at Madeira on September 6.
At 9 p.m. on September 9 we weighed anchor for the
IN THE TRADE WINDS 28a
last time, and left Madeira. As soon as we were clear
of the land we got the north-east trade again, and it
held more or less fresh till about lat. 11° N.
After our departure from Madeira I took over the
morning watch, from 4 to 8 a.m.; Prestrud and
Gjertsen divided the remainder of the twenty-four
hours.
In order if possible to get a little more way on the
ship, a studding-sail and a skysail were rigged up with
two awnings; it did not increase our speed very much,
but no doubt it helped a little.
The highest temperature we observed was 84° F.
In the trade winds we constantly saw flying-fish, but
as far as I know not one was ever found on deck ; those
that came on board were of course instantly snapped up
by the dogs.
In about lat. 11° N. we lost the north-east trade,
and thus came into the " belt of calms," a belt that
extends on each side of the Equator, between the
north-east and south-east trades. Here, as a rule, one
encounters violent rain - squalls ; to saihng ships in
general and ourselves in particular tliis heavy rain is
welcome, as water-tanks can be filled up. Only on one
day were we lucky enough to have rain, but as it was
accompanied by a strong squall of wind, we did not
catch all the water we wanted. All hands were on
deck carrying water, some in oilskins, some in Adam's
costume; the Chief in a white tropical suit, and, as far
284 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
as I remember, clogs. As the latter were rather
slippery, and the Fram suddenly gave an unexpected
lurch, he was carried off his legs, and left sitting on the
deck, while his bucket of water poured all over him.
But " it was all in his country's cause," so he did not
mind. We caught about 3 tons of water, and then
had our tanks full, or about 30 tons, when the shower
passed off; later in the voyage we filled a bucket now
and again, but it never amounted to much, and if we
had not been as careful as we were, our water-supply
would hardly have lasted out.
On October 4 we crossed the Equator. The south-
east trade was not so fresh as we had expected, and the
engine had to be kept going the whole time.
At the beginning of November we came down into
the west wind belt, or the " Roaring Forties," as they
are called, and from that time we ran down our easting
at a great rate. We were very lucky there, and had
strong fair winds for nearly seven weeks at a stretch.
In the heavy sea we found out what it was to sail in the
Fram; she rolls incessantly, and there is never a
moment's rest. The dogs were thrown backwards and
forwards over the deck, and when one of them rolled
into another, it was taken as a personal insult, and a
fight followed at once. But for all that the Fram is
a first-rate sea boat, and hardly ever ships any water.
If this had been otherwise, the dogs would have been
far worse off than they were.
THE SECOND IN COMMAND TAKES A NAP.
To lace }mge 2S4, Vol. II.
THE FIRST ICEBERGS 285
The weather in the " Foggy Fifties " varied between
gales, calms, fogs, snowstorms, and other delights. As
a rule, the engine was now kept constantly ready, in
case of our being so unlucky as to come too near an
iceberg. Fortunately, however, we did not meet any
of these until early on the morning of January 1, 1911,
when we saw some typical Antarctic bergs; that is to
say, entirely tabular. Our latitude was then a little
over 60° S., and we were not far off the pack. On the
1st and 2nd we sailed southward without seeing any-
thing but scattered bergs and a constantly increasing
number of lumps of ice, which showed us we were get-
ting near. By 10 p.m. on the 2nd we came into slack
drift-ice; the weather was foggy, and we therefore kept
going as near as might be on the course to the Bay of
Whales, which was destined to be our base.
A good many seals were lying on the ice-floes, and as
we went forward we shot some. As soon as the first
seal was brought on board, all our dogs had their first
meat meal since Madeira ; they were given as much as
they wanted, and ate as much as they could. We, too,
had our share of the seal, and from this time forward we
had fresh seal-steak for breakfast at least every day; it
tasted excellent to us, who for nearly half a year had
been living on nothing but tinned meat. With the
steak whortleberries were always served, which of
course helped to make it appreciated. The biggest
seal we got in the pack-ice was about 12 feet long, and
286 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM
j>
weighed nearly half a ton. A few penguins were also
shot, mostly Adelie penguins; these are extraordinarily
amusing, and as inquisitive as an animal can be. When
any of them saw us, they at once came nearer to get
a better view of the unbidden guests. If they became
too impertinent, we did not hesitate to take them, for
their flesh, especially the liver, was excellent. The
albatrosses, which had followed us through the whole
of the west wind belt, had now departed, and in their
place came the beautiful snowy petrels and Antarctic
petrels.
We had more or less fog all through the pack-ice.
Only on the night of the 5th did we have sun and fine
weather, when we saw the midnight sun for the first
time. A more beautiful morning it would be difficult
to imagine: radiantly clear, with thick ice everywhere,
as far as the eye could see; the lanes of water between
the floes gleamed in the sun, and the ice-crystals glit-
tered like thousands of diamonds. It was a pure de-
light to go on deck and drink in the fresh air; one felt
altogether a new man. I believe everyone on board
found this passage through the pack the most interesting
part of the whole voyage, and, of course, it all had the
charm of novelty. Those who had not been in the ice
before, myself among them, and who were hunting for
the first time, ran about after seals and penguins, and
amused themselves like children.
At 10 p.m. on the 6th we were already out of the
THROUGH THE PACK 287
ice after a passage of exactly four days; we had been
extremely lucky, and the Fram went very easily
through the ice.
After coming out of the pack, our course was con-
tinued through the open Ross Sea to the Bay of
Whales, which from the previous description was to
be found in about long. 164° W. On the after-
noon of the 11th we had strong ice-bhnk ahead, by
which is meant the luminous stripe that is seen above
a considerable accumulation of ice; the nearest thing
one can compare it to is the glare that is always seen
over a great city on approaching it at night. We knew
at once that this was the glare of the mighty Ross
Barrier, named after Sir James Clark Ross, who first
saw it in 1841. The Barrier is a wall of ice, several
hundred miles long, and about 100 feet high, which
forms the southern boundary of Ross Sea. We were,
of course, very intent upon seeing what it looked like,
but to me it did not appear so imposing as I had
imagined it. Possibly this was because I had become
familiar with it, in a way, from the many descriptions
of it. From these descriptions we had expected to find
a comparatively narrow opening into Balloon Bight, as
shown in the photographs we had before us; but as
we went along the Barrier, on the 12th, we could find
no opening. In long. 164° W., on the other hand,
there was a great break in the wall, forming a cape
(West Cape) ; from here to the other side of the Barrier
288 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
was about eight geographical miles, and southward, as
far as we could see, lay loose bay ice. We held on to the
east outside this drift-ice and along the eastern Barrier
till past midnight, but as Balloon Bight was not to be
found, we returned to the above-mentioned break or
cape, where we lay during the whole forenoon of the
13th, as the ice was too thick to allow us to make any
progress. After midday, however, the ice loosened,
and began to drift out ; at the same time we went»in, and
having gone as far as possible, the Fram was moored to
the fast ice-foot on the western side of the great bay we
had entered. It proved that Balloon Bight and another
bight had merged to form a great bay, exactly as
described by Sir Ernest Shackleton, and named by him
the Bay of Whales.
After mooring here, the Chief and one or two others
went on a reconnoitring tour; but it began to snow
pretty thickly, and, as far as I am aware, nothing was
accomplished beyond seeing that the Barrier at the
southernmost end of the bay sloped evenly down to
the sea-ice; but between the latter and the slope there
was open water, so that they could not go any farther.
We lay all night drifting in the ice, which was con-
stantly breaking up, and during this time several seals
and penguins were shot. Towards morning on the 14th
it became quite clear, and we had a splendid view of
the surroundings. Right over on the eastern side of
the bay it looked as if there was more open water; we
A SEAL HUNT 289
therefore went along the fast ice-foot and moored off
the eastern Barrier at about three in the afternoon.
The cape in the Barrier, under which we lay, was given
the name of "Man's Head," on account of its resemblance
to a human profile. All the time we were going along
the ice we were shooting seals, so that on arrival at our
final moorings we already had a good supply of meat.
For my part I was rather unlucky on one of these
hunts. Four seals were lying on the ice-foot, and I
jumped down with rifle and five cartridges; to take any
cartridges in reserve did not occur to me, as, of course,
I regarded myself as a mighty hunter, and thought that
one shot per seal was quite enough. The three first
died without a groan; but the fourth took the alarm,
and made off as fast as it could. I fired my fourth
cartridge, but it did not hit as it ought to have done,
and the seal was in full flight, leaving a streak of blood
behind it. I was not anxious to let a wounded seal go,
and as I had only one cartridge left, and the seal had
its tail turned towards me, I wanted to come to close
quarters to make sure of it. I therefore ran as hard as
I could, but the seal was quicker, and it determined the
range. After running half-way to the South Pole, I
summoned my remaining strength and fired the last
shot. Whether the bullet went above or below, I have
no idea. All I know is, that on arriving on board I
was met by scornful smiles and had to stand a good
deal of chaff.
290 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAjNI "
As already mentioned, we left Norway on August 9,
1910, and arrived at our final moorings on January 14,
1911, in the course of which time we had only called
at Madeira. The Barrier is 16,000 geographical miles
from Norway, a distance which we took five months
to cover. From Madeira we had had 127 days in open
sea, and therewith the first part of the voyage was
brought to an end.
II.
Off the Barrier.
As soon as we had moored, the Chief, Prestrud,
Johansen and I went up on to the Barrier on a tour
of reconnaissance. The ascent from the sea-ice to the
Barrier was fine, a perfectly even slope. When no
more than a mile from the ship, we found a good site
for the first dog-camp, and another mile to the south it
was decided that the house was to stand, on the slope
of a hill, where it would be least exposed to the strong
south-easterly gales which might be expected from
previous descriptions. Up on the Barrier all was abso-
lutely still, and there was not a sign of life; indeed,
what should anytliing live on? This deliglitful ski-run
was extended a little farther to the south, and after
a couple of hours we returned on board. Here in the
meantime the slaughtering of seals had been going on.
UNLOADING THE SHIP 291
and there were plenty to be had, as several hundreds of
them lay about on the ice.
After the rather long sea voyage, and the cramped
quarters on board, I must say it was a pleasure to have
fii'm ground under one's feet and to be able to move
about a little. The dogs evidently thought the same;
when they came down on to the ice, they rolled in the
snow and ran about, wild with delight. During our
whole stay a great part of the time was spent in ski-
runs and seal-hunts, and an agreeable change it was.
Sunday the 15th was spent in setting up tents at the
first dog-camp and at Framheim, as the winter station
was named. A team of dogs was used, and, as they
were unused to being driven, it is not surprising that
some lay down, others fought, a few wanted to go on
board, but hardly any of them appreciated the serious-
ness of the situation or understood that their good time
had come to an end. On Monday all the dogs were
landed, and on the following day the supplies began to
be put ashore.
The landing of the cases was done in this way: the
sea-party brought up on deck as many cases as the
drivers could take in one journey; as the sledges came
down to the vessel, the cases were sent down on to the
ice on skids, so that it all went very rapidly. We
would not put the cases out on the ice before the
sledges came back, as, in case the ice should break up,
we should be obliged to heave them all on board again.
292 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAJM "
or we might even lose them. At night no one was
ever allowed to stay on the ice.
Before we reached the ice, we had counted on having
50 per cent, of idle days — that is, from previous descrip-
tions we had reckoned on having such bad weather half
the time that the Fram would be obliged to leave her
moorings. In this respect we were far luckier than we
expected, and only had to put out twice. The first
time was on the night of January 25, when we had
a stiff breeze from the north with some sea, so that
the vessel was bumping rather hard against the ice.
Drifting floes came down upon us, and so as not to be
caught by any iceberg that might suddenly come sailing
in from the point of the Barrier we called IMan's Head,
we took our moorings on board and went. When the
shore party next morning came down as usual at a
swinging pace, they saw to their astonishment that the
Fram was gone. In the course of the day the weather
became fine, and we tried to go back about noon; but
the bay was so full of drift-ice that we could not come
in to the fast ice-foot. About nine in the evening we
saw from the crow's nest that the ice was loosening;
we made the attempt, and by midnight we were again
moored.
But the day was not wasted by the shore party, for on
the day before Kristensen, L, Hansen and I had been
out on ski and had shot forty seals, which were taken up
to the station while we were away.
ON THE ICE EDGE, JANUARY, 1911.
To face iiage 292, Vol. II.
THE " TERRA NOVA " ARRIVES 293
Only once or twice more did we have to leave our
berth, until on February 7, when almost all the ice had
left the bay, we were able to moor alongside the low,
fast Barrier, where we lay in peace until we went for
good.
There was a great deal of animal life about us. A
number of whales came close in to the vessel, where they
stayed still to look at the uninvited guests. On the ice
seals came right up to the ship, as did large and small
flocks of penguins, to have a look at us. These latter
Mere altogether extraordinarily inquisitive creatures.
Two Emperor penguins often came to our last moorings
to watch us laying out an ice-anchor or hauling on a
hawser, while they put their heads on one side and
jabbered, and they were given the names of " the
Harbour-master and his Missis."
A great number of birds, skua gulls, snowy petrels
and Antarctic petrels, flew round the ship and gave us
many a good " roast ptarmigan."
On the morning of February 4, about 1 a.m., the
watchman, Beck, came and called me with the news that
a vessel was coming in. I guessed at once, of course,
that it was the Terra Nova; but I must confess that I
did not feel inclined to turn out and look at her. We
hoisted the colours, however.
As soon as she was moored. Beck told me, some of
her party went ashore, presumably to look for the house.
They did not find it, though, and at 3 a.m. Beck came
294 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAJNI "
below again, and said that now they were coming on
board. So then I turned out and received them. They
were Lieutenant Campbell, the leader of Captain Scott's
second shore party, and Lieutenant Pennell, the com-
mander of the Terra Nova. They naturally asked a
number of questions, and evidently had some difficulty
in believing that it was actually the Fram that was
lying here. We had at first been taken for a whaler.
They offered to take our mail to New Zealand; but we
had no mail ready, and had to decline the offer with
thanks. Later in the day a number of the Terra
Novas officers went to breakfast at Framheim, and
the Chief, Prestrud and I lunched with them. At
about two in the afternoon the Terra Nova sailed
again.
On Friday, February 16, a number of the shore party
started on the first trip to lay down depots. We cleared
up, filled our water-tanks with snow, and made the ship
ready for sea. We had finished this by the evening of
the l-lth.
HI.
From the Bay of Whales to Buenos Aires.
The sea party consisted of the following ten men:
Thorvald Nilsen, L. Hansen, H. Kristensen and J.
Nodtvedt; H. F. Gjertsen, A Beck, M. Ronne,
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WE LEAVE THE BARRIER 295
A. Kutschin and O. K. Sundbeck. The first four
formed one watch, from eight to two, and the last five
the other, from two to eight. Last, but not least, comes
K. Olsen, cook.
Having made ready for sea, we let go our moorings
on the Ice Barrier at 9 a.m. on February 15, 1911.
Hassel, Wisting, Bjaaland, and Stubberud came down
to see us off. As in the course of the last few days the
ice had broken up right to the end of the bay, we went
as far south as possible to take a sounding; the shallowest
we got was 155f fathoms (285 metres) . The bay ended
in a ridge of ice on the east, which was continued in a
northerly direction, so that at the spot where we were
stopped by the Barrier, we reached the most southerly
point that a vessel can attain, so long as the Barrier
remains as it is now. Highest latitude 78° 41' S. When
the Terra Nova was here, her latitude and ours was
78° 38' S.
The last two days before our departure had been calm,
and a thick, dense sludge lay over the whole bay; so
dense was it that the Fram lost her way altogether, and
we had to keep going ahead and astern until we came
out into a channel. Seals by the hundred were lying
on the floes, but as we had a quantity of seal's flesh, we
left them in peace for a change.
Before the Chief began the laying out of depots, I
received from him the following orders:
296 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FR AM "
" To First-Lieutenant Thoryald Xilsen.
" With the departure of the Fram from the Ice
Barrier, you will take over the command on board. In
accordance with the plan we have mutually agreed upon :
"1. You will sail direct to Buenos Aires, where the
necessary repairs will be executed, provisions taken on
board, and the crew comj^leted. When this has been
done,
" 2. You will sail from Buenos Aires to carry out
oceanographical observations in the South Atlantic
Ocean. It would be desirable if j^ou could investigate
the conditions between South America and Africa in
two sections. These investigations must, however, be
dependent on the prevailing conditions, and on the time
at your disposal. When the time arrives you will
return to Buenos Aires, where the final preparations will
be made for
" 3. Your departure for the Ice Barrier to take off the
shore party. The sooner you can make your ^vay in to
the Barrier in 1912, the better. I mention no time, as
everything depends on circumstances, and I leave it to
you to act according to your judgment.
" In all else that concerns the interests of the Expedi-
tion, I leave you entire freedom of action.
" If on your return to tlie Barrier you should find that
I am prevented by illness or death from taking over the
leadership of the Expedition, I place this in your hands,
OUR INSTRUCTIONS 297
and beg you most earnestly to endeavour to carry out
the original plan of the Expedition — the exploration of
the North Polar basin.
" With thanks for the time we have spent together,
and in the hope that when we meet again we shall have
reached our respective goals,
" I am,
" Yours sincerely,
" RoALD Amundsen."
When Sir James Ross was in these waters for the first
time, in 1842, he marked " Appearance of land " in long.
160° W., and lat. about 78° S. Afterwards, in 1902,
Captain Scott named this land " King Edward VII.
Land." One of the Terra Novas objects was to
explore this land; but when we met the ship on
February 4, they told us on board that on account of the
ice conditions they had not been able to land. As no
one had ever been ashore there, I thought it might be
interesting to go and see what it looked like. Conse-
quently our course was laid north-eastward along the
Barrier. During the night a thick sea-fog came on, and
it was only now and then that we could see the Barrier
over our heads. All of a sudden we were close upon
a lofty iceberg, so that we had to put the helm hard
over to go clear. The Fram steers splendidly, however,
when she is in proper trim, and turns as if on a
pivot; besides which, it was calm.
VOL. II. 45
298 THE VOYAGE OF THE "FRAJVI
>»
As the day advanced, the weather cleared more and
more, and by noon it was perfectly clear. The sight
that then met us was the lofty Barrier to starboard, and
elsewhere all round about some fifty icebergs, great and
small. The Barrier rose from about 100 feet at its edge
to something like 1,200 feet.
We followed the Barrier for some distance, but in the
neighbourhood of Cape Colbeck we met the drift-ice,
ajnd as I had no wish to come between this and tha
Barrier, we stood out in a north-westerly direction.
There is, besides, the disadvantage about a propeller
like ours, that it is apt to wear out the brasses, so that
these have to be renewed from time to time. It was
imperative that this should be done before we came
into the pack-ice, and the sooner the better. When,
therefore, we had gone along the Barrier for about
a day and a half without seeing any bare land, we
set our course north-west in open water, and after
we had come some way out we got a slant of
easterly wind, so that the sails could be set. We
saw the snow -covered land and the glare above it all
night.
The date had not yet been changed, but as this had
to be done, it was changed on February 15.*
* A vessel sailing continuously to the eastward puts the clock on
every day, one hour for every fifteen degrees of longitude ; one sailing
westward puts it back in the same way. In long. 180° one of them
has gone twelve hours forward, the other twelve hours back ; the differ-
THE PROPELLER REPAIRED 299
At noon on the 16th the propeller was lifted, and by
the evening of the 17th the job was done— a record
in spite of the temperature. Capital fellows to work,
our engineers.
On the night of the 15th we saw the midnight sun
unfortunately for the last time. The same night some-
thing dark was sighted on the port bow ; in that light it
looked very like an islet. The sounding apparatus was
got ready, and we who were on watch of course saw
ourselves in our minds as great discoverers. I was
already wondering what would be the most appropriate
name to give it, but, alas! the "discovery" became
clearer and the name — well, it was a rather prosaic one :
" Dead Whale Islet " ; for it turned out to be a huge
inflated whale, that was drifting, covered with birds.
We went rather slowly north-westward under sail
alone. On the morning of the 17th we saw ice-blink
on the starboard bow, and about noon we were close to
the pack itself; it was here quite thick, and raised by
pressure, so that an attempt to get through it was out
of the question. We were, therefore, obliged to follow
the ice to the west. Due aft we saw in the sky the
same glare as above the great Ice Barrier, which may
possibly show that the Barrier turns towards the north
ence is thus twenty-four hours. In changing the longitude, therefore,
one has to change the date, so that, in passing from east to west
longitude, one will have the same day twice over, and in passing from
west to east longitude a day must be missed.
300 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
and north-west; besides which, the masses of pressure-
ice that collect here must go to show that it encoimters
an obstruction, probably the Barrier. When we went
out in 1912 the ice lay in exactly the same place and in
the same way.
Our course was still to the west along the pack-ice,
and it was not till the 20th that we could turn her nose
northward again. For a change we now had a stiff
breeze from the south-east, with thick snow, so we got
on very well. On the whole, the Fram goes much
more easily through the water now than on the way
south. Her bottom has probably been cleaned by the
cold water and all the scraping against the ice; besides
which, we have no more than a third of the load with
which we left Norway.
On the night of the 20th we had to light the binnacle-
lamps again, and now the days grew rapidly shorter.
It may possibly be a good thing to have dark nights on
land, but at sea it ought always to be light, especially
in these waters, which are more or less unknown, and
full of drifting icebergs.
At 4 p.m. on the 22nd we entered the drift-ice in
lat. 70-5° S., long. 177*5'' E. The ice was much
higher and uglier than when we were going south,
but as there was nothing but ice as far as we could
see both east and west, and it was fairly loose, we had
to make the attempt where there seemed to be the best
chance of getting through.
CLEAR OF THE PACK 301
The seals, which to the south of the ice had been
following us in decreasing numbers, had now disap-
peared almost entirely, and curiously enough we saw
very few seals in the pack. Luckily, however, Lieu-
tenant Gjertsen's watch got three seals, and for a
week we were able to enjoy seal-beef, popularly known
as " crocodile beef," three times a day. Seal-beef and
fresh whortleberries — delicioso !
We went comparatively well through the ice, though
at night — from eleven to one — we had to slacken speed,
as it was impossible to steer clear on accoimt of the
darkness, and towards morning we had a heavy fall of
snow, so that nothing could be seen, and the engine had
to be stopped. When it cleared, at about 9 a.m., we
had come into a dam, out of which we luckily managed
to turn fairly easily, coming out into a bay. This was
formed by over a hundred icebergs, many of which lay
in contact with each other and had packed the ice close
together. On the west was the outlet, which we steered
for, and by 10 p.m. on February 23 we were already
out of the ice and in open water. Our latitude was
then 69° S., longitude 175-5° E.
It is very curious to find such calm weather in
Ross Sea; in the two months we have been here we
have hardly had a strong breeze. Thus, when I was
relieved at 2 a.m. on the 25th, I wrote in my diary:
"... It is calm, not a ripple on the water. The
three men forming the watch walk up and down the
302 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRA3I
>j
deck. Now and then one hears the penguins' cry,
kva, kva, but except these there is no other sound than
the tuf, tuff of the motor, 220 times a minute. Ah,
that motor! it goes unweariedly. It has now gone for
1,000 hours without being cleaned, while on our Atlantic
cruise last year it stopped dead after going for eighty
hours. . . . Right over us we have the Southern
Cross, all round glow the splendid southern lights, and
in the darkness can be seen the gleaming outline of an
iceberg. . . ."
On the 26th we crossed the Antarctic Circle, and the
same day the temperature both of air and water rose
above 32° F.
It was with sorrow in our hearts that we ate our last
piece of " crocodile beef," but I hoped we should get
a good many albatrosses, which we saw as soon as we
came out of the ice. They were mostly the sooty
albatross, that tireless bird that generally circles alone
about the ship and is so difficult to catch, as he seldom
tries to bite at the pork that is used as bait. When
I saw these birds for the first time, as a deck boy, I was
told they were called parsons, because they were the
souls of ungodly clergymen, who had to wait down here
till doomsday without rest.
More or less in our course to Cape Horn there are
supposed to be two groups of islands, the Nimrod group
in about long. 158° W., and Dougherty Island in about
long. 120° W. They are both marked " D " (Doubtful)
SEARCH FOR DOUBTFUL ISLANDS 303
on the English charts. Lieutenant Shackleton's vessel,
the Nimrod, Captain Davis, searched for both, but
found neither; Dougherty Island, however, is said
to have been twice sighted. The Frams course
was therefore laid for the Nimrod group. For a time
things went very well, but then we had a week of
northerly winds — that is, head winds — and when at last
we had a fair wind again, we were so far to the south-
east of them that there was no sense in sailing back to
the north-west to look for doubtful islands; it would
certainly have taken us weeks. Consequently, our
course was laid for Dougherty Island. We had
westerly winds for about two weeks, and were only two
or three days' sail from the island in question, when
suddenly we had a gale from the north-east, which
lasted for three days, and ended in a hurricane from the
same quarter. When this was over, we had come
according to dead reckoning about eighty nautical miles
to the south-east of the island; the heavy swell, which
lasted for days, made it out of the question to attempt
to go against it with the motor. We hardly had a
glimpse of sun or stars, and weeks passed without our
being able to get an observation, so that for that matter
we might easily be a degree or two out in our reckon-
ing. For the present, therefore, we must continue to
regard these islands as doubtful.
Moral: Don't go on voyages of discovery, my friend;
you're no good at it !
304 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM
>»
As soon as we were out of Ross Sea and had entered
the South Pacific Ocean, the old circus started again —
in other words, the Fram began her everlasting rolling
from one side to the other. When this was at its worst,
and cups and plates were dancing the fandango in the
galley, its occupant's only wish was, " Oh, to be in
Buenos Aires !" For that matter, it is not a very easy
job to be cook in such circumstances, but ours was
always in a good humour, singing and whistling all day
long. How well the Fram understands the art of
rolling is shown by the following little episode.
One afternoon a couple of us were sitting drinking
coffee on a tool-box that stood outside the galley. As
ill-luck would have it, during one of the lurches the
lashing came loose, and the box shot along the deck.
Suddenly it was checked by an obstacle, and one of
those who were sitting on it flew into the air, through
the galley door, and dashed past the cook with a
splendid tiger's leap, until he landed face downwards at
the other end of the galley, still clinging like grim death
to his cup, as though he wanted something to hold on
to. The face he presented after this successful feat of
aviation was extremely comical, and those who saw it
had a hearty fit of laughter.
As has already been said, we went very well for a
time after reaching the Pacific, a fair wind for fourteen
days together, and I began to hope that we were once
more in what are called the " westerlies." However,
BECK STEERS THE "FRAM" THROUGH UNKNOWN WATERS.
OUR COOK, CHEERFUL AND CONTENTED AS USUAL.
'io face page 304, Vol. II.
ROLLING AGAIN 305
nothing is perfect in this world, and we found that out
here, as we had icebergs every day, and were constantly
bothered by snow-squalls or fog; the former were, of
course, to be preferred, as it was at any rate clear
between the squalls; but fog is the worst thing of all.
It sometimes happened that all hands were on deck the
whole night to work the ship at a moment's notice, and
there were never less than two men on the lookout
forward. The engine, too, was always ready to be
started instantly. A little example will show how
ready the crew were at any time.
One Sunday afternoon, when Hansen, Kristensen and
I were on watch, the wind began to draw ahead, so that
we had to beat. It was blowing quite freshly, but I did
not want to call the watch below, as they might need
all the sleep they could get, and Hansen and I were to
]3ut the ship about. Kristensen was steering, but gave
us a hand when he could leave the wheel. As the ship
luffed up into the wind and the sails began to flap
pretty violently, the whole of the watch below suddenly
came rushing on deck in nothing but their unmention-
ables and started to haul. Chance willed it that at the
same moment an iceberg came out of the fog, right in
front of our bows. It was not many minutes, either,
before we were on the other tack, and the watch below
did not linger long on deck. With so few clothes on it
was no pleasure to be out in that cold, foggy air. They
slept so lightly, then, that it took no more noise than
306 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
that to wake them. When I afterwards asked one of
them — I think it was Beck — what made them think of
coming up, he rephed that they thought we were going to
run into an iceberg and were trying to get out of the way.
It has haj)pened at night that I have seen the ice-
bhnk as far off as eight miles, and then there is nothing
to fear; but sometimes in the middle of the dav we
have sailed close to icebergs that have only been seen a
few minutes before we were right on them. As the
voyage was long, we sailed as fast as we could, as a rule ;
but on two or three nights we had to reduce our way to
a minimum, as we could not see much farther than the
end of the bowsprit.
After two or three weeks' sailing the icebergs began
gradually to decrease, and I hoped we should soon come
to the end of them; but on Sundaj^ ]March 5, when it
was fairly clear, we saw about midday a whole lot of big
bergs ahead. One of the watch below, who had just
come on deck, exclaimed: "What the devil is this
beastly mess yon fellows have got into?" He might well
ask, for in the course of that afternoon we passed no less
than about a hundred bergs. They were big tabular
bergs, all of the same height, about 100 feet, or about as
high as the crow's-nest of the Fram. The bergs were
not the least worn, but looked as if they had calved
quite recently. As I said, it was clear enough, we even
got an observation that day (lat. 61° S., long. 150° W.),
and as we had a west wind, we twisted quite elegantly
A HUNDRED ICEBERGS 307
past one iceberg after another. The sea, which during
the morning had been high enough for the spray to dash
over the tops of the bergs, gradually went down, and in
the evening, when we were well to leeward of them all,
it was as smooth as if we had been in harbour. In the
course of the night we passed a good many more bergs,
and the next day we only saw about twenty.
In the various descriptions of voyages in these waters,
opinions are divided as to the temperature of the water
falling in the neighbourhood of icebergs. That it falls
steadily as one approaches the pack-ice is certain enough,
but whether it falls for one or a few scattered icebergs,
no doubt depends on circumstances.
One night at 12 o'clock we had a temperature in the
water of 341° F., at 4- a.m. 33*8° F., and at 8 a.m.
33'6° F.; at 6 a.m. we passed an iceberg. At 12 noon
the temperature had risen to 33*9° F. In this case one
might say that the temperature gave warning, but, as a
rule, in high latitudes it has been constant both before
and after passing an iceberg.
On Christmas Eve, 1911, when on our second trip
southward we saw the first real iceberg, the temperature
of the water fell in four hours from 35*6° F. to 327° F.,
which was the temperature when the bergs were passed,
after which it rose rather rapidly to 35° F.
In the west wind belt I believe one can tell with
some degree of certainty when one is approaching ice.
In the middle of November, 1911, between Prince
308 THE VOYAGE OF THE ' FRAM "
Edward Island and the Crozet Islands (about lat.47° S.)
the temperature fell. Towards morning I remarked to
someone: " The temperature of the water is falling as if
we were getting near the ice." On the forenoon of the
same day we sailed past a very small berg ; the tempera-
ture again rose to the normal, and we met no more ice
until Christmas Eve.
On Saturday, JNIarch 4, the day before we met that
large collection of bergs, the temperature fell pretty
rapidly from 33-9° F. to 32'5° F. We had not then seen
ice for nearly twenty-four hours. At the same time
the colour of the water became unusually green, and it
is possible that we had come into a cold current. The
temperature remained as low as this till Sunday morn-
ing, when at 8 a.m. it rose to 327° F. ; at 12 noon,
close to a berg, to 32*9° F., and a mile to lee of it, to
33° F. It continued to rise, and at 4 p.m., when the
bergs were thickest, it was 33*4° F.; at 8 p.m. 33*6° F.,
and at midnight 338° F. If there had been a fog, we
should certainly have thought we were leaving the ice
instead of approaching it; it is very curious, too, that
the temperature of the w^ater should not be more constant
in the presence of such a great quantity of ice ; but, as
I have said, it may have been a current.
In the course of the week following JNIarch 5 the
bergs became rarer, but the same kind of weather pre-
vailed. Our speed was irreproachable, and in one day's
work (from noon to noon) we covered a distance of
TEJNIPERATURE OF THE WATER 309
200 nautical miles, or an average of about 8^ knots an
hour, which was the best day's work the Fram had done
up to that time. The wind, which had been westerly
and north-westerly, went by degrees to the north, and
ended in a hurricane from the north-east on Sunday,
JNIarch 12. I shall quote here what I wrote about this
in my diary on the 13th:
" Well, now we have experienced the first hurricane
on the Fram. On Saturday afternoon, the 11th, the wind
went to the north-east, as an ordinary breeze with rain.
The barometer had been steady between 29*29 inches
(744 millimetres) and 29'33 inches (745 millimetres).
During the afternoon it began to fall, and at 8 p.m.
it was 29*25 inches (743 millimetres) without the
wind having freshened at all. The outer jib was taken
in, however. By midnight the barometer had fallen
to 29*0 inches (737 millimetres), while the wind had
increased to a stiff breeze. We took in the foresail,
mainsail, and inner jib, and had now only the top-
sail and a storm-trysail left. The wind gradually in-
creased to a gale. At 4 a.m. on Sunday the barometer
had fallen again to 28*66 inches (728 millimetres), and
at 6 a.m. the topsail was made fast.*
* For the benefit of those who know what a buntline on a sail is,
I may remark that besides the usual topsail buntlines we had six extra
buntlines round the whole sail, so that when it was clewed up it was,
so to speak, made fast. We got the sail clewed up without its going
to pieces, but it took us over an hour. We had to take this precaution,
of having so many buntlines, as we were short-handed.
310 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
" The wind increased and the seas ran higher, but
we did not ship much water. At 8 a.m. the barometer
was 28"30 inches (719 milhmetres), and at 9 a.m.
28'26 inches (718 milhmetres), when at last it stopped
going down and remained steady till about noon, during
which time a furious hurricane was blowing. The clouds
were brown, the colour of chocolate ; I cannot remember
ever having seen such an ugly sky. Little by little the
wind went to the north, and we sailed large under two
storm-trysails. Finally, we had the seas on our beam,
and now the Fram showed herself in all her glory as the
best sea-boat in the world. It was extraordinary to
watch how she behaved. Enormous seas came surging
high to windward, and we, who were standing on the
bridge, turned our backs to receive them, with some
such remark as : ' Ugh, that's a nasty one coming.* But
the sea never came. A few yards from the ship it
looked over the bulwarks and got ready to hurl itself
upon her. But at the last moment the Fram gave
a wriggle of her body and was instantly at the top of
the wave, which slipped under the vessel. Can anyone
be surprised if one gets fond of such a ship? Then she
went down with the speed of lightning from the top of
the wave into the trough, a fall of fourteen or fifteen
yards. When we sank like this, it gave one the same
feeling as dropping from the twelfth to the ground-floor
in an American express elevator, ' as if everything inside
you was coming up.' It was so quick that we seemed
A HURRICANE 311
to be lifted off the deck. We went up and down like
this all the afternoon and evening, till during the night
the wind gradually dropped and it became calm. That
the storm would not be of long duration might almost
be assumed from its suddenness, and the English rule —
Long foretold, long last ;
Short notice, soon past ' —
may thus be said to have held good.
" When there is a strong wind on her beam, the
Fram does not roll so much as usual, except for an
occasional leeward lurch ; nor was any excessive quantity
of water shipped in this boisterous sea. The watch went
below as usual when they were relieved, and, as some-
body very truly remarked, all hands might quite well
have turned in, if we had not had to keep a lookout for
ice. And fortune willed it that the day of the hurricane
was the first since we had left the Barrier that we did
7iot see ice — whether this was because the spray was so
high that it hid our view, or because there really was
none. Be that as it may, the main thing was that we
saw no ice. During the night we had a glimpse of the
full moon, which gave the man at the wheel occasion to
call out ' Hurrah !' — and with good reason, as we had
been waiting a long time for the moon to help us in
looking out for ice.
" In weather like tliis one notices nothing out of the
ordinary below deck. Here hardly anything is heard of
the wind, and in the after-saloon, wliich is below the
312 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
water-line, it is perfectly comfortable. The cook, who
resides below, therefore reckons ' ugly weather ' accord-
ing to the motion of the vessel, and not according to
storms, fog, or rain. On deck we do not mind much
how it blows, so long as it is only clear, and the \^ind is
not against us. How little one hears below deck may
be understood from the fact that yesterday morning,
while it was blowing a hurricane, the cook went about
as usual, whistling his two verses of ' The Whistling
Bowery Boy.' While he was in the middle of the first,
I came by and told him that it was blowing a hurricane
if he cared to see what it looked like. ' Oh, yes,' he
said, ' I could guess it was blowing, for the galley fire
has never drawn so well; the bits of coal are flying up
the chimney ' ; and then he whistled through the second
verse. All the same, he could not resist going up to
see. It was not long before he came down again, with
a ' ]My word, it is blowing, and waves up to the sky !'
No; it was warmer and more cosy below among his
pots and pans.
" For dinner, which was eaten as usual amid cheerful
conversation, we had green-pea soup, roast sirloin, with
a glass of aquavit, and caramel pudding; so it may be
seen that the cook was not behindhand in oj^ening tins,
even in a hurricane. After dinner we enjoyed our usual
Sunday cigar, while tlie canary, which has become Kris-
tensen's pet, and hangs in his cabin, sang at the top of
its voice."
A CYCLONE 313
On March 14 we saw the last iceberg; during the
whole trip we had seen and passed between 500 and
600 bergs.
The wind held steady from the north-east for a week
and a half, and I was beginning to think we should be
stuck down here to play the Flying Dutchman. There
was every possible sign of a west wind, but it did not come.
On the night of the 17th it cleared; light cirrus clouds
covered the sky, and there was a ring about the moon.
This, together with the heavy swell and the pronounced
fall of the barometer, showed that something might be
expected. And, sure enough, on Sunday, March 19,
we were in a cyclone. By manoeuvring according to
the rules for avoiding a cyclone in the southern hemi-
sphere, we at any rate went well clear of one semicircle.
About 4 p.m. on Sunday afternoon the barometer was
down to 27'56 inches (700 millimetres), the lowest
barometer reading I have ever heard of. From noon
to 4 p.m. there was a calm, with heavy sea. Immedi-
ately after a gale sprang up from the north-west, and in
the course of a couple of days it slowly moderated to
a breeze from the same quarter.
Sunday, March 5, a hundred icebergs; Sunday
March 12, a hurricane; and Sunday, March 19, a
cyclone: truly three pleasant " days of rest."
The curves given on the next page, which show the
course of barometric pressure for a week, from Monday
to Monday, are interesting.
VOL. II. 46
314 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
Mcinaavia l_Tuaitixy}t 1 r.roMfeOai'ii 1 namaiiyJS 1
rrtiUtyil
/ JoairAiyM / eurutgyta l_ Horul\
■
^
m
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$
' f f f
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«
W-.W-.WWiV:-.
m
FrSrffl
1
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i
i
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;::::::;:E:::
rolvff
m\\\\M
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By way of comparison a third curve is given from
the north-east trade, where there is an almost constant
breeze and fine weather.
On this trip the fore-saloon was converted into a sail-
loft, where Ronne and Hansen carried on their work,
each in his watch. The after-saloon was used as a
common mess-room, as it is warmer, and the motion is
far less felt than forward.
ARRIVAL AT BUENOS AIRES 315
From the middle of JNIarch it looked as if the equi-
noctial gales were over, for we had quite fine weather
all the way to Buenos Aires. Cape Horn was passed
on March 31 in the most delightful weather — a light
westerly breeze, not a cloud in the sky, and only a very
slight swell from the west. Who would have guessed
that such splendid weather was to be found in these
parts? — and that in March, the most stormy month of
the year.
Lieutenant Gjertsen and Kutschin collected plankton
all the time; the latter smiled all over his face whenever
he chanced to get one or two " tadpoles " in his tow-net.
From the Falkland Islands onward the Fram was
washed and painted, so that we might not present too
" Polar " an appearance on arrival at Buenos Aires.
It may be mentioned as a curious fact that the snow
with which we filled our water-tanks on the Barrier did
not melt till we were in the River La Plata, which
shows what an even temperature is maintained in the
Frames hold.
About midday on Easter Sunday we were at the mouth
of the River La Plata, without seeing land, however.
During the night the weather became perfect, a breeze
from the south, moonlight and starry, and w^e went up
the river by soundings and observations of the stars
until at 1 a.m. on Monday, when we had the Recalada
light-ship right ahead. We had not seen any light
since we left Madeira on September 9. At 2.30 the
316 THE VOYAGE OF THE " rRA:M "
same morning we got a pilot aboard, and at seven in
the evening we anchored in the roads of Buenos Aires.
We had then been nearly once round the world, and
for over seven months the anchor had not been out.
We had reckoned on a two months' voyage from the
ice, and it had taken us sixty-two days.
IV.
The Oceanographical Cruise.
According to the programme, the Fram was to go
on an oceanographical cruise in the South Atlantic, and
my orders were that this was to be arranged to suit the
existing circumstances. I had reckoned on a cruise of
about three months. We should have to leave Buenos
Aires at the beginning of October to be down in the ice
at the right time (about the New Year).
As we were too short-handed to work the ship,
take soundings, etc., the following four seamen were
engaged: H. Halvorsen, A. Olsen, F. Steller, and
J. Andersen.
At last we were more or less ready, and the Fram
sailed from Buenos Aires on June 8, 1911, the anni-
versary of our leaving Horten on our first hydrographic
cruise in the North Atlantic. I suppose there was no
one on board on June 8, 1910, who dreamed that a year
later we should go on a similar cruise in the South.
LEAVING THE RIVER PLATE 317
We had a pilot on board as far as Montevideo, where
we arrived on the afternoon of the 9th; but on account
of an increasing wind (pampero) we had to lie at
anchor here for a day and a half, as the pilot could not
be taken off. On Saturday afternoon, the 10th, he was
fetched off by a big tug-boat, on board of which was the
Secretary of the Norwegian Consulate. This gentleman
asked us if we could not come into the harbour, as
"people would like to see the sliip." I promised to
come in on the way back, " if we had time."
On Sunday morning, the 11th, we weighed anchor,
and went out in the most lovely weather that can be
imagined. Gradually the land disappeared, and in the
course of the evening we lost the lights; we were once
more out in the Atlantic, and immediately everything
resumed its old course.
In order to save our supply of preserved provisions as
much as possible, we took with us a quantity of live
poultry, and no fewer than twenty live sheep, which were
quartered in the " farmyard " on the port side of the
vessel's fore-deck. Sheep and hens were all together, and
there was always a most beautiful scent of hay, so that
we had not only sea air, but " country air." In spite of
all this delightful air, three or four of the crew were
down with influenza, and had to keep their berths for
some days.
I reckoned on being back at Buenos Aires by the
beginning of September, and on getting, if possible, one
318 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
station a day. The distance, according to a rough
calculation, was about 8,000 nautical miles, and I laid
down the following plan: To go about east by north
with the prevailing northerly and north-westerly winds
to the coast of Africa, and there get hold of the south-
east trade. If we could not reach Africa before that date,
then to turn on July 22 and lay our course with the
south-east trade for St. Helena, which we could reach
before August 1 ; from there again with the same wind
to South Trinidad (August 11 or 12) ; on again with
easterly and north-easterly winds on a south-westerly
course until about August 22, when the observations
were to be concluded, and we should try to make
Buenos Aires in the shortest time.
That was the plan that we attempted. On account of
the fresh water from the River La Plata, we did not
begin at once to take samples of water, and with a head-
wind, north-east, we lay close-hauled for some days.
We also had a pretty stiff breeze, which was another
reason for delaying the soundings until the 17th.
For taking samples of water a winch is used, with
a sounding-line of, let us say, 5,000 metres (2,734
fathoms), on which are hung one or more tubes for
catching water; we used three at once to save time.
Now, supposing water and temperatures are to be taken
at depths of 300, 400, and 500 metres (164, 218, and
273 fathoms) , Apparatus III. (see diagram) is first hung
on, about 20 metres (10 fathoms) from the end of the
THE SOUNDING APPARATUS 319
line, where a small weight (a) hangs; then it is lowered
until the indicator-wheel, over which the line passes,
shows 100 metres (54 fathoms) ; Apparatus II. is then
put on, and it is lowered again for another 100 metres,
when Apparatus I. is put on and the line paid out for
300 metres (164 fathoms) — that is, until the indicator-
wheel shows 500 metres (273 fathoms). The upper
Apparatus (I.) is then at 300 metres (164 fathoms).
No. II. at 400 metres (218 fathoms), and No. III. at
500 metres (273 fathoms) . Under Apparatus I. and II.
is hung a slipping sinker (about 8 centimetres, or
31 inches, long, and 3 centimetres, or li inches, in
diameter). To the water-samplers are attached ther-
mometers ( 6 ) in tubes arranged for the purpose.
The water-samplers themselves consist of a brass
cylinder (c), about 38 centimetres (15 inches) long and
4 centimetres (1^ inches) in diameter (about half a litre
of water), set in a frame (d). At about the middle of
the cylinder are pivots, which rest in bearings on the
frame, so that the cylinder can be swung 180 degrees
(straight up and down).
The cylinder, while being lowered in an inverted
position, is open at both ends, so that the water can
pass through. But at its upper and lower ends are
valves, working on hinges and provided with packing.
When the apparatus is released, the cylinder swings
round, and these valves then automatically close the
ends of the cylinder. The water that is thus caught in
320 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRA]M "
the cylinder at the required depth remains in it while it
is being heaved up, and is collected in bottles. When
tlie apparatus is released, the column of mercury in the
thermometer is broken, and the temperature of the water
is read at the same depth as the water is taken from.
The release takes place in the following manner:
when all the cylinders have been lowered to the required
depths, they are left hanging for a few minutes, so that
the thermometers may be set at the right temperature
before the column of mercury is broken. Then a slipping
sinker is sent down the line. When this sinker strikes
the first apparatus, a spring is pressed, a hook (e) which
has held the cylinder slips loose, and the cylinder turns
completely over (Apparatus I.). As it does this, the
valves, as already mentioned, close the ends of the
cyhnder, which is fixed in its new position by a hook in
the bottom of the frame. At the same instant the
slipping sinker that hangs under Apparatus I. is released,
and continues the journey to Apparatus II., where
the same thing happens. It is then repeated with
Apparatus III. When they are all ready, they are
heaved in.
By holding one's finger on the line one can feel, at all
events in fairlv calm weather, when the sinkers strike
against the cylinders; but I used to look at my watch,
as it takes about half a minute for the sinker to go down
100 metres.
The necessary data are entered in a book.
METHOD OF SOUNDING 321
On the morning of the 17th, then, the sails were
clewed up, and the Fram began to roll even worse than
with the sails set. We first tried taking soundings with
a sinker of 66 pounds, and a tube for taking specimens
of the sea-bed. At 2,000 metres (1,093 fathoms) or
more the line (piano wire) broke, so that sinker, tube,
and over 2,000 metres of line continued their way
unhindered to the bottom. I had thought of taking
samples of water at 4,000,3,000, and 2,000 metres (2,187,
1,639, 1,093 fathoms), and so on, and water-cylinders
were put on from 0 to 2,000 metres. This, however,
took six hours. Next day, on account of the heavy sea,
only a few samples from 0 to 100 metres (54 fathoms)
were taken. On the third day we made another attempt
to get the bottom. This time we got specimens of the
sea-bed from about 4,500 metres (about 2,500 fathoms) ;
but the heaving in and taking of water samples and
temperatures occupied eight hours, from 7 a.m. till
3 p.m., or a third part of the twenty-four hours. In this
way we should want at least nine months on the route
that had been laid down; but as, unfortunately, this
time was not at our disposal, we at once gave up taking
specimens of the bottom and samples of water at greater
depths than 1,000 metres (546 fathoms). For the
remainder of the trip we took temperatures and samples
of water at the following depths: 0, 5, 10, 25, 50, 75,
100, 150, 200, 250, 300, 400, 500, 750, and 1,000 metres
(0, 2f, 5h ISh 27, 41, 54, 81, 108, 135, 164, 218, 273,
322 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
410, and 546 fathoms), in all, fifteen samples from each
station, and from this time forward we went on regularly
with one station every day. Finally, we managed to
heave up two water-cylinders on the same line by hand
without great difficulty. At first this was done with
the motor and sounding-machine, but this took too
long, and we afterwards used nothing but a light hand-
winch. Before very long we were so practised that the
whole business only took two hours.
These two hours were those we liked best of the
twenty-four. All kinds of fminy stories were told,
especially about experiences in Buenos Aires, and every
day there was something new. Here is a little yarn :
One of the members of the expedition had been
knocked down by a motor-car in one of the busiest
streets ; the car stopped and of course a crowd collected
at once. Our friend lay there, wondering whether he
ought not to be dead, or at least to have broken a leg,
so as to get compensation. While he lay thus, being
prodded and examined by the public, he suddenly
remembered that he had half a dollar in his pocket.
With all that money it didn't matter so much about the
compensation; up jumped our friend like an india-
rubber ball, and in a second he had vanished in the
crowd, who stood open-mouthed, gazing after the
" dead " man.
Our speed on this cruise was regulated as nearly as
possible so that there might be about 100 nautical miles
SMARTENING UP THE SHIP 323
between each station, and I must say we were un-
commonly lucky in the weather. We made two
fairly parallel sections with comparatively regular
intervals between the stations; as regular, in any
case, as one can hope to get with a vessel hke the
Fram, which really has too little both of sail area and
engine power. The number of stations was 60 in all
and 891 samples of water were taken. Of plankton
specimens 190 were sent home. The further examina-
tion of these specimens in Norway will show whether
the material collected is of any value, and whether the
cruise has yielded satisfactory results.
As regards the weather on the trip, it was uniformly
good the whole time; we had a good deal of wind now
and then, with seas and rolling, but for the most part
there was a fresh breeze. In the south-east trade we
sailed for four weeks at a stretch without using the
engine, which then had a thorough overhauling. At
the same time we had a good opportunity of smartening
up the ship, which she needed badly. All the iron was
freed from rust, and the whole vessel painted both
below and above deck. The decks themselves were
smeared with a mixture of oil, tar and turpentine, after
being scoured. All the rigging was examined. At the
anchorage at Buenos Aires nearly the whole ship was
painted again, masts and yards, the outside of the vessel
and everything inboard, both deck-houses, the boats and
the various winches, pumps, etc. In the engine-room
324 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAJSI "
everything was either shining bright or freshly painted,
everything hung in its place and such order and cleanli-
ness reigned that it was a pleasure to go down there.
The result of all this renovating and smartening up was
that, when we fetched up by the quay at Buenos Aires,
the Fram looked brighter than I suppose she has ever
done since she was new.
During the trip the holds were also cleaned up, and all
the provisions re-stowed and an inventory made of them.
A whole suit of sails was completely worn out on this
voyage; but what can one expect when the ship is being
worked every single day, with clewing up, making fast
and setting of sails both in calms and winds? This
work every day reminded me of the corvette ElUda,
when the order was "all hands aloft." As a rule
though, it was only clewing up the sails that had to be
done, as we always had to take soundings on the
weather side, so that the sounding-line should not foul
the bottom of the vessel and smash the apparatus. And
we did not lose more than one thermometer in about
nine hundred soundings.
On account of all this wear and tear of sails Ronne
was occupied the whole time, both at sea and in Buenos
Aires, in making and patching sails, as there was not
much more than the leeches left of those that had been
used, and on the approacliing trip (to tlie Ice Barrier)
we should have to have absolutely first-class things in
the " Roaring Forties."
CIRCUMNAVIGATION COMPLETED 325
June 30, 1911, is a red-letter day in the Frarns
history, as on that day we intersected our course from
Norway to the Barrier, and the Fram thus completed
her first circumnavigation of the globe. Bravo, Fram!
It was well done, especially after the bad character you
have been given as a sailer and a sea-boat. In honour
of the occasion we had a better dinner than usual, and
the Fram was congratulated by all present on having
done her work well.
On the evening of July 29 St. Helena was passed. It
was the first time I had seen this historic island. It was
very strange to think that "the greatest spirit of a
hundred centuries," as some author has called Napoleon,
should have ended his restless Hfe on this lonely island
of the South Atlantic.
On August 12, when daylight came, we sighted the
little Martin Vaz Islands ahead, and a little later South
Trinidad (in 1910 this island was passed on October 16) .
We checked our chronometers, which, however, proved
to be correct. From noon till 2 p.m., while we were
lying still and taking our daily hydrographic observa-
tions, a sailing ship appeared to the north of us, lying
close-hauled to the south. She bore down on us and
ran up her flag, and we exchanged the usual greetings ;
she was a Norwegian barque bound for Australia.
Otherwise we did not see more than four or five ships
on the whole voyage, and those were pretty far off.
Never since leaving Madeira (September, 1910) had
326 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM
j»
we been troubled with animals or insects of any kind
whatever; but when we were in Buenos Aires for the
first time, at least half a million flies came aboard to
look at the vessel. I hoped they would go ashore when
the Fram sailed; but no, they followed us, until by
degrees they passed peacefully away on fly-paper.
Well, flies are one thing, but we had something else
that was worse — namely, rats — our horror and dread,
and for the future our deadly enemies. The first signs
of them I found in my bunk and on the table in the
fore-saloon; they were certainly not particular. What
I said on that occasion had better not be printed,
though no expression could be strong enough to give
vent to one's annoyance at such a discovery. We set
traps, but what was the use of that, when the cargo
consisted exclusively of provisions?
One morning, as Ronne was sitting at work making
sails, he observed a " shadow " flying past his feet, and,
according to his account, into the fore-saloon. The
cook came roaring: " There's a rat in the fore-saloon !"
Then there was a lively scene; the door was shut, and
all hands started hunting. All the cabins were emptied
and rummaged, the piano, too; everything was turned
upside down, but the rat had vanished into thin air.
About a fortnight later I noticed a corpse-like smell
in Hassel's cabin, which was empty. On closer snifl^ng
and examination it turned out to be the dead rat, a big
black one, inifortunately a male rat. The poor brute,
WAR AGAINST RATS 327
that had starved to death, had tried to keep itself ahve
by devouring a couple of novels that lay in a locked
drawer. How the rat got into that drawer beats me.
On cleaning out the provision hold nests were found
with several rats in them: six were killed, but at least
as many escaped, so now no doubt we have a whole
colony. A reward was promised of ten cigars for each
rat; traps were tried again, but all this did very little
good. When we were in Buenos Aires for the second
time we got a cat on board; it certainly kept the rats
down, but it was shot on the Barrier. At Hobart we
provided a few traps, which caught a good many; but
we shall hardly get rid of them altogether until we have
landed most of the provisions, and smoked them out.
We have also had a lot of moth; at present they
have done nothing beyond eating a couple of holes in
my best trousers.
During the whole of this cruise we had a fishing-line
hanging out, but it hung for a whole month without
there being a sign of a fish, in spite of the most delicate
little white rag that was attached to the hook. One
morning the keenest of our fishermen came up as usual
and felt the line. Yes, by Jove ! at last there was
one, and a big one, too, as he could hardly haul in the
line by himself. There was a shout for assistance.
" Hi, you beggar! come and lend a hand; there's a big
fish !" Help came in a second, and they both hauled
for all they were worth. " Ah ! he's a fine, glistening
328 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM
a
fish; it'll be grand to get fresh fish for dinner !" At
last the fish appeared over the rail; but, alas! it was
seen to have no head. It was an ordinary stockfish,
about three-quarters of a yard long, that some joker
had hung on the line during the night. That we all
had a hearty laugh goes without saying, the fishermen
included, as they took it all in good part.
As a fishing-boat the Fram is on the whole not very
successful. The only fish we caught, besides the above-
mentioned stockfish, was a real live fish; but, unfortu-
nately, it fell off the hook as it was being hauled in.
According to the account of eye-witnesses, this fish was
... six feet long and one broad.
Now we don't fish any more.
On August 19 the hydrographic observations were
brought to an end, and a course was laid for Buenos
Aires, where we anchored in the roads at midnight on
September 1.
V.
At Buenos Aires.
To arrive at Buenos Aires in the early part of 1911
was not an unmixed pleasure, especially when one had
no money. The Fram Expedition was apparently not
very popular at that time, and our cash balance amounted
to about forty pesos (about £3 10s.), but that would
not go very far; our supply of provisions had shrunk to
TIMELY ASSISTANCE 329
almost notliing, and we had not enough to be able to
leave the port. I had been told that a sum had been
placed to the credit of the Fram for our stay in Buenos
Aires, but I neither saw nor heard anything of it
while we were there, and it was no doubt somewhat
imaginary.
If we were to be at all able to go down and take
off the shore party money must be found. We had
come to the end of sail-cloth and ropes, we had too
little food and a minimum of oil ; all this would have to
be provided. At the worst the oceanographical cruise
could be cut out, and we could lie still at Buenos
Aires; then, as our comrades could not very well be
left to perish on the ice, enough would have to be sent
us from Norway to enable us to go down there; but
that would finish the whole expedition, as in such a
case the Fram had orders to go back to Norway,
As usual, however, the Frams luck helped her again.
A few days before we left Norway our distinguished
compatriot in Buenos Aires, Don Pedro Christophersen,
had cabled that he would supply us with what pro-
visions we might require, if, after leaving Madeira, we
would call at Buenos Aires. Of course, he did not
know at that time that the voyage would be extended
to include the South Pole, and that the Fram on arrival
at Buenos Aires would be almost empty instead of
having a full cargo, but that did not prevent his helping
us. I immediately called on him and his brother, the
VOL. II. 47
330 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAJVI "
Norwegian Minister; fortunately, they were both very
enthusiastic about our Chief's change of plan.
When, on a subsequent occasion, I expressed my
astonishment at not hearing from home, I was told that
the funds of the Expedition were exhausted, and Mr.
Christophersen promised me, on hearing what straits we
were in, to pay all our expenses in Buenos Aires, and
to supply us with provisions and fuel. That brought
us out of our difficulties at a bound, and we had no
more need to take thought for the morrow.
Everyone on board received a sum of money for his
personal expenses from the Norwegian colony of the
River Plate, and we were invited to their dinner on
Independence Day, May 17.
Our second stay at Buenos Aires was very pleasant;
everyone was amiability itself, and festivities were even
got up for us. We took on board provisions that had
been sent out from Norway by Mr. Christophersen's
orders, about 50,000 litres (11,000 gallons) of petroleum,
ship's stores, and so on; enough for a year. But this
was not all. Just before we sailed Mr. Christophersen
said he would send a relief expedition, if the Fram
did not return to Australia by a certain date; but, as
everyone knows, this was happily unnecessary.
During the three weeks we were lying at the quay in
Buenos Aires we were occupied in getting everything
on board, and making the vessel ready for sea. We
had finished this by the afternoon of Wednesday,
WE LEAVE FOR THE SOUTH 331
October 4, and next morning the Frmn was ready to
continue her second circumnavigation of the globe.
In Buenos Aires we lay at the same quay as the
Deutschland, the German Antarctic Expedition's ship.
A. Kutschin and the second engineer, J. Nodtvedt,
went home, and seaman J. Andersen was discharged.
VI.
From Buenos Aires to the Ross Barrier.
On the trip from Buenos Aires to the Barrier the
watches were divided as follows: From eight to two:
T. Nilsen, L. Hansen, H. Halvorsen, and A. Olsen.
From two to eight: H. Gjertsen, A. Beck, M. Ronne,
and F. Steller. In the engine-room: K. Sundbeck and
H. Kristensen. Lastly, K. Olsen, cook. In all eleven
men.
It is said that "well begun is half done," and it
almost seems as if a bad beginning were likely to have
a similar continuation. When we left the northern
basin on the morning of October 5, there was a head
wind, and it was not till twenty-four hours later that
we could drop the pilot at the Recalada lightship.
After a time it fell calm, and we made small progress
down the River La Plata, until, on the night of the 6th,
we were clear of the land, and the lights disappeared on
the horizon.
332 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
Properly speaking, we ought to have been in the
west wind belt as soon as we came out, and the drift
of the clouds and movement of the barograph were
examined at least twenty-four times a day, but it still
remained calm. At last, after the lapse of several days,
we had a little fresh south-westerly wind with hail
showers, and then, of course, I thought we had made
a beginning; but unfortunately it only lasted a night,
so that our joy was short-lived.
We took with us from Buenos Aires fifteen live
sheep and fifteen live little pigs, for wliich two houses
were built on the after-deck; as, however, one of the
pigs was found dead on the morning after the south-
westerly breeze just mentioned, I assumed that this
was on account of the cold, and another house was at
once built for them between decks (in the work-room),
where it was very warm. They were down here the
whole time; but as their house was cleaned out twice
a day and dry straw put on the floor, they did not
cause us much inconvenience; besides which, their
house was raised more than half a foot above the deck
itself, so that the space below could always be kept
clean. The pigs thrived so well down here that we
could almost see them growing; on arrival at the
Barrier we had no fewer than nine alive.
The sheep had a weather-tight house with a tarpaulin
over the roof, and they grew fatter and fatter; we had
every opportunity of noticing this, as we killed one of
HEAD WINDS AND CALMS 333
them regularly every Saturday until we came into the
pack-ice and got seal-meat. We had four sheep left on
reaching the Barrier.
We did wretchedly in October — calms and east winds,
nothing but east winds; as regards distance it was the
worst month we had had since leaving Norway, not-
withstanding that the Frain had been in dry dock, had
a clean bottom and a light cargo. When close-hauled
with any head sea, we scarcely move; a stiff fair wind
is what is wanted if we are to get on. Somebody said
we got on so badly because we had thirteen pigs on
board; another said it was because we caught so many
birds, and I had caught no less than fourteen albatrosses
and four Cape pigeons. Altogether there is quite enough
of what I will call superstition at sea. One particular
bird brings fine weather, another storms ; it is very im-
portant to notice which way the whale swims or the
dolpliin leaps; the success of seal-hunting depends on
whether the first seal is seen ahead or astern, and so on.
Enough of that.
October went out and November came in with a
fresh breeze from the south-south-west, so that we
did nine and a half knots. This promised well for
November, but the promise was scarcely fulfilled. We
had northerly wind or southerly wind continually,
generally a little to the east of north or south.
and I believe I am not saying too much when I
state that in the "west wind belt" with an easterly
334 THE VOYAGE OF THE ' FRAJM "
course we lay close-hauled on one tack or the other for
about two-thirds of the way. For only three days out
of three months did we have a real west mnd, a wind
which, with south-westerly and north-westerly winds,
I had reckoned on having for 75 per cent, of the trip
from Buenos Aires to about the longitude of Tasmania.
In my enthusiasm over the west wind in question,
I went so far as to write in my diary at 2 a.m. on
IX'ovember 11: " There is a gale from the west, and we
are making nine knots with foresail and topsail. The sea
is pretty high and breaking on both sides of the vessel,
so that everything about us is a mass of spray. In spite
of this, not a drop of water comes on deck, and it is so
dry that the watch are going about in clogs. For my
part I am wearing felt slippers, which will not stand
wet. Sea-boots and oilskins hang ready in the chart-
house, in case it should rain. On a watch like to-night,
when the moon is kind enough to shine, everyone on
deck is in the best of humours, whistling, chattering,
and singing. Somebody comes up with the remark that
' She took that sea finely,' or 'Now she's flying properly.'
' Fine ' is almost too feeble an expression ; one ought
to say ' lightly and elegantly ' when speaking of the
Frmn. . . . What more can one wish?" etc.
But whatever time Adam may have spent in Paradise,
we were not there more than three days, and then the
same wretched state of things began again. What I
wrote when there was a head wind or calm, I should be
A TEMPORARY IMPROVEMENT 335
sorry to reproduce. Woe to him who then came and
said it was fine weather.
It was lucky for us that the Fram sails so much more
easily now than in 1910, otherwise we should have taken
six months to reach the Barrier. When we had wind,
we used it to the utmost; but we did not do this with-
out the loss of one or two things; the new jib-sheet
broke a couple of times, and one night we carried away
the outer bobstay of the jib-boom. The foresail and
topsail were neither made fast nor reefed during the
whole trip.
The last time the jib-sheet broke there was a strong
breeze from the south-west with a heavy sea; all sail
was set with the exception of the spanker, as the ship
would not steer with that. There was an extra pre-
venter on the double jib-sheet, but in spite of that the
sheets broke and the jib was split with a fearful crack.
Within a minute the mainsail and gaff -topsail were
hauled down, so that the ship might fall off, and the
jib hauled down. This was instantly unbent and a ncAv
one bent. The man at the helm, of course, got the
blame for this, and the first thing he said to me was:
" I couldn't help it, she was twisting on the top of
a wave." We were then making ten knots, and more
than that we shall not do.
The Fram rolled well that day. A little earlier in the
afternoon, at two o'clock, when the watch had gone
below to dinner and were just eating the sweet, which
336 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM
>»
on that occasion consisted of preserved pears, we felt
that there was an unusually big lurch coming. Although,
of course, we had fiddles on the table, the plates, with
meat, potatoes, etc., jumped over the fiddles, which they
didn't care a button for, into Beck's cabin. I caught
one of the pears in its flight, but the plate with the rest
of them went on its way. Of course there was a great
shout of laughter, which stopped dead as we heard a
violent noise on deck, over our heads ; I guessed at once
it was an empty water-tank that had broken loose, and
with my mouth full of pear I yelled " Tank!" and flew
on deck with the whole watch below at my heels. A sea
had come in over the after-deck, and had lifted the tank
up from its lashings. All hands threw themselves upon
the tank, and held on to it till the water had poured off^
the deck, when it was again fixed in its place. When
this was done, my watch went below again and lit their
pipes as if nothing had happened.
On November 13 we passed the northernmost of the
Prince Edward Islands, and on the 18th close to Penguin
Island, the most south-westerlv of the Crozets. In the
neighbourhood of the latter we saw a great quantity of
birds, a number of seals and penguins, and even a little
iceberg. I went close to the land to check the
chronometers, which an observation and bearings of the
islands showed to be correct.
Our course was then laid for Kerguelen Island, but
we went too far north to see it, as for two weeks the
CATCHING BIRDS 337
wind was south-easterly and southerly, and the leeway
we made when sailing close-hauled took us every day a
little to the north of east. When we were in the same
waters in 1910, there was gale after gale; then we did
not put in at Kerguelen on account of the force of the
wind; this time we could not approach the island
because of the wind's direction. In no respect can the
second trip be compared with the first; I should never
have dreamed that there could be so much difference ui
the " Roaring Forties " in two different years at the
same season. In the " Foggy Fifties " the weather was
calm and fine, and we had no fog until lat. 58° S.
As regards the distance sailed, November, 1911, is the
best month the Fram has had.
In December, which began with a speed of one and a
half knots, calm, swell against us, and the engine at full
speed, we had a fair wind for three days, all the rest
calms and head winds; the first part of the month from
the north-east and east, so that we came much too far
south; even in long. 150 E. we were in lat. 60° S. In
Christmas week we had calms and light winds from the
south-east, so that we managed to steal eastward to
long. 170° E. and lat. 65° S., where, on the edge of the
pack-ice, we had a stiff breeze from the north-north-east,
that is, straight on to the ice.
Between Buenos Aires and the pack-ice we caught, as
I have said, a good many birds, mostly albatrosses, and
about thirty skins were prepared by L. Hansen. The
338 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
largest albatross we got measured twelve feet between the
tips of its wings, and the smallest bird was of a land
species, not much bigger than a humming-bird.
Talking of albatrosses, it is both amusing and interest-
ing to watch their elegant flight in a high wind. With-
out a movement of the wings they sail, now with, now
against, the wind ; at one instant they touch the surface
of the water with the points of their wings, at the next
they go straight into the air like an arrow. An
interesting and instructive study for an aviator.
In a wind, when there is generally a number of them
hovering about the vessel, they will dash down after
anything that is thrown overboard; but of course it is
useless to try to catch them when the ship has so much
way. This must be done the next day, when the wind
is lighter.
The birds are caught with an iron triangle, which
ought to be enclosed in wood, so that it will float on the
water. At the apex, which is very acute, the iron is
filed as sharp as a knife, and pork is hung on each of the
sides. When this is thrown in the wake of the ship,
the bird settles on the water to feed. The upper part of
its beak is hooked like that of a bird of prey, and as the
albatross opens its beak and bites at the pork, you give
a jerk, so that the triangle catches the upper part of the
beak by two small notches, and the bird is left hanging.
If the line should break, the whole thing simply falls off
and the bird is unliarmed. In hauling in, therefore, you
CHRISTMAS 339
have to be very careful to hold the line quite tight, even
if the bird flies towards you, otherwise it will easily fall
off. A bird may be pulled half-way in several times, and
will immediately take the bait again.
On the night of December 11 an unusually beautiful
aurora was seen ; it lasted over an hour, and moved in a
direction from west to east.
On the 14th all the white paint was washed; the
temperature was 43° F., and we were in shirt-sleeves.
For a whole week before Christmas the cook was
busy baking Christmas cakes. I am bound to say he is
industrious; and the day before Christmas Eve one of
the little pigs, named Tulla, was killed. The swineherd,
A. Olsen, whose special favourite this pig was, had to
keep away during the operation, that we might not
witness his emotion.
Early on the morning of Christmas Eve we saw the
three first icebergs ; there was an absolute calm all day,
with misty air.
To keep Christmas the engine was stopped at 5 p.m.,
and then all hands came to dinner. Unfortunately we
had no gramophone to sing to us, as in 1910; as a
substitute the " orchestra " played " Glade Jul. hellige
Jul," when all were seated. The orchestra was com-
posed of Beck on the violin, Sundbeck on the mandolin,
and the undersigned on the flute. I puffed out my
cheeks as much as I could, and that i^ not saying a
little, so that the others might see how proficient I was.
340 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
I hardly think it was much of a musical treat ; but the
public was neither critical nor ceremonious, and the
2)revalent costume w^as jerseys. The dinner consisted of
soup, roast pork, with fresh potatoes and whortleberries,
ten-years-old aquavit and Norwegian bock beer, followed
by wine-jelly and " kransekake," with — champagne.
The toasts of their Majesties the King and Queen, Don
Pedro Christophersen, Captain Amundsen, and the
Fram were drunk.
I had decorated the saloon in a small way with
artificial flowers, embroideries, and flags, to give a little
colour. Dinner was followed by cigars and the distribu-
tion of Christmas presents. L. Hansen played the
accordion, and Lieutenant Gjertsen and Ronne danced
*' folk dances "; the latter was, as usual, so amusing that
he kept us in fits of laughter.
At ten o'clock it was all over, the engine was started
again, one watch w^ent to bed and the other on deck;
Olsen cleaned out the pigsty, as usual at this time of
night. That finished Christmas for this year.
As has been said before. Sir James Ross was down
here in the 1840's. Two years in succession he sailed
from the Pacific into Ross Sea with two ships that had
no auxiliary steam-power. I assumed, therefore, that if
he could get through so easily, there must be some
place between South Victoria Land and the Barrier (or
land ) on the other side, where there was little or no ice.
Following this assumption, I intended to go down
SKIRTING THE ICE 341
to the western pack-ice (that lying off South Victoria
Land) and steer along it till we were in Ross Sea, or, at
all events, until we found a place where we could easily
get through. It is quite possible that Ross was very
lucky in the time at which he encountered the ice, and
that he only sailed in clear weather. We had no time
to spare, however, but had to make use of whatever
wind there was, even if we could not see very far.
As early as December 28, at 5 p.m., in lat. 65° S.
and long. 171'5° E., it was reported that we were
off the pack. I was a good deal surprised, as recent
expeditions had not met the pack until 66*5° S., or
about one hundred nautical miles farther south, nor had
there been any sign of our being so near the ice. The
wind for the last few days had been south-easterly, but
for the moment it was calm; we therefore held on to
the east along the edge of the pack, with the ice to
starboard. About midnight the wind freshened from the
north, and we lay close-hauled along the edge of the
ice till midday on the 29th, when the direction of the
ice became more southerly. The northerly wind, which
gradually increased to a stiff breeze, was good enough
for getting us on, but it must inevitably bring fog and
snow in its train. These came, sure enough, as thick
as a wall, and for a couple of days we sailed perfectly
blindly.
Outside the pack-ice proper lie long streams of floes
and loose scattered lumps, which become more frequent
342 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
as one nears the pack. For two days we sailed simply
by the lumps of ice; the more of them we saw, the
more easterly was our course, until they began to
decrease, when we steered more to the south. In
this way we went in forty-eight hom'S from lat. 65° S.
and long. 174° E. to lat. 69° S. and long. 178° E.,
a distance of about two hundred and fifty nautical
miles, without entering the pack. Once we very
nearlj^ went into the trap, but fortunately got out
again. The wind was so fresh that we did as much as
eight and a half knots; when sailing at such a rate
through a loose stream of ice, we sometimes ran upon a
floe, which went under the ship's bottom, and came up
alongside the other way up.
During the afternoon of the 31st the streams of ice
became closer and closer, and then I made the mistake
of continuing to sail to the eastward; instead of this,
I ought to have stood off, and steered due south or
to the west of south, with this ice on our poj't side.
The farther we advanced, the more certain I was that
we had come into the eastern pack-ice. It must be
remembered, however, that owing to fog and thick
snow we had seen nothing for over two days. Observa-
tions there were none, of course; our speed had varied
between two and eight and a half knots, and we had
steered all manner of courses. That our dead reckoning
was not very correct in such circimistances goes with-
out saying, and an observation on January 2 showed
SLOW PROGRESS 343
us that we were somewhat farther to the east than we
had reckoned. On the evening of December 31 the fog
Hfted for a wliile, and we saw nothing but ice all round.
Our course was then set due south. We had come
right down in lat. 69' 5° S., and I hoped soon to be
clear altogether; in 1910 we got out of the ice in 70° S.,
and were then in the same longitude as now.
Now, indeed, our progress began to be slow, and the
old year went out in a far from pleasant fashion. The
fog was so thick that I may safely say we did not see
more than fifty yards from the ship, whereas we ought
to have had the midnight sun ; ice and snow-sludge were
so thick that at times we lay still. The wind had,
unfortunately, fallen off, but we still had a little
breeze from the north, so that both sails and engine
could be used. We went simply at haphazard; now
and then we were lucky enough to come into great
open channels and even lakes, but then the ice closed
again absolutely tight. It could hardly be called real ice,
however, but was rather a snow-sludge, about two feet
thick, and as tough as dough; it looked is if it had all
just been broken off a single thick mass. The floes lay
close together, and we could see how one floe fitted
into the other. The ice remained more or less close
until we were right down in lat. 73° S. and long. 179°
W.; the last part of it was old drift-ice.
From here to the Bay of Whales we saw a few
scattered streams of floes and some icebergs.
344 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
A few seals were shot in the ice, so that we had fresh
meat enough, and could save the sheep and pigs until
the shore party came on board. I was sure they would
appreciate fresh roast pork.
The chart of Ross Sea has been drawn chiefly as
a guide to future expeditions. It may be taken as
certain that the best place to go through the ice is
between long. 176° E. and 180°, and that the best
time is about the beginning of February.
Take, for instance, our southward route in 1911-1912:
as has been said, the ice was -met with as early as
in 65° S., and we were not clear of it till about 73° S.;
between 68° S. and G9° S. the line is interrupted, and it
was there that I ought to have steered to the south.
Now follow the course from the Bay of Whales
in 1912. Only in about 75° S. was ice seen (almost
as in 1911), and we followed it. After that time we
saw absolutely no more ice, as the chart shows; there-
fore in the course of about a month and a half all the ice
that we met when going south had drifted out.
The stippled line shows how I assume the ice to have
lain; the heavy broken line shows what our course
ought to have been.
The midnight sun was not seen till the night of
January 7, 1912, to the south of lat. 77° S.; it was
already 9*5° above the horizon.
On the night of January 8 we arrived off the
Barrier in extremely bitter weather. South-westerly
To face page 344, Vol. II.
BACK IN THE BAY OF WHALES 345
and southerly winds had held for a few days, with fair
weather; but that night there was thick snow, and the
wind gradually fell calm, after which a fresh breeze
sprang up from the south-east, with biting snow, and
at the same time a lot of drift-ice. The engine went
very slowly, and the ship kept head to wind. About
midnight the weather cleared a little, and a dark line,
which proved to be the Barrier, came in sight. The
engine went ahead at full speed, and the sails were set,
so that we might get under the lee of the perpendicular
wall. By degrees the ice-blink above the Barrier be-
came lighter and lighter, and before very long we were
so close under it that we only just had room to go
about. The Barrier here runs east and west, and with
a south-easterly wind we went along it to the east.
The watch that had gone below at eight o'clock, when
we were still in open sea, came up again at two to find
us close to the long-desired wall of ice.
Some hours passed in the same way, but then, of
course, the wind became easterly — dead ahead — so that
we had tack after tack till 6 p.m. the same day, when
we were at the western point of the Bay of Whales.
The ice lay right out to West Cape, and we sailed
across the mouth of the bay and up under the lee of the
eastern Barrier, in order, if possible, to find slack ice
or open water; but no, the fast ice came just as far
on that side. It turned out that we could not get
farther south than 78° 30' — that is, eleven nautical miles
VOL, II. 48
346 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM
>j
farther north than the previous year, and no less than
fifteen nautical miles from Framheim, taking into con-
sideration the turn in the bay.
We were thus back at the same place we had left on
February 14, 1911, and had since been round the world.
The distance covered on this voyage of circumnavigation
was 25,000 nautical miles, of which 8,000 belong to the
oceanographical cruise in the South Atlantic.
We did not lie under the lee of the eastern Barrier
for more than four hours ; the wind, which had so often
been against us, was true to its principles to the last.
Of course it went to the north and blew right up the
bay; the drift-ice from Ross Sea came in, and at mid-
night (January 9-10) we stood out again.
I had thought of sending a man up to Framheim to
report that we had arrived, but the state of the weather
did not allow it. Besides, I had only one pair of private
ski on board and should therefore onlv have been able
to send one man. It would have been better if several
had gone together.
During the forenoon of the 10th it gradually cleared,
the wind fell light and we stood inshore again. As at
the same time tlie barometer was rising steadily.
Lieutenant Gjertsen went ashore on ski about one
o'clock.
Later in the afternoon a dog came running out across
the sea-ice, and I thought it had come down on
Lieutenant Gjertsen's track; but I was afterwards told
THE " KAINAN MARU " APPEARS 347
it was one of the half -wild dogs that ran about on the
ice and did not show themselves up at the hut.
Meanwhile the wind freshened again; we had to put
out for another twenty-four hours and lay first one way
and then the other with shortened sail; then there was
fine weather again and we came in. At 4 p.m. on the
11th Lieutenant Gjertsen returned with Lieutenant
Prestrud, Johansen and Stubberud. Of course we were
very glad to see one another again and all sorts of
questions were asked on both sides. The Chief and the
southern party were not yet back. They stayed on
board till the 12th, got their letters and a big pile of
newspapers and went ashore again; we followed them
with the glasses as far as possible, so as to take them on
board again if they could not get across the cracks in
the ice.
During the days that followed we lay moored to the
ice or went out, according to the weather.
At 7 p.m. on the 16th we were somewhat surprised
to see a vessel bearing down. For my part, I guessed
her to be the Aurora^ Dr. Mawson's ship. She came
very slowly, but at last what should we see but the
Japanese flag! I had no idea that expedition was out
again. The ship came right in, went past us twice and
moored alongside the loose ice. Immediately after-
wards ten men armed with picks and shovels went up
the Barrier, while the rest rushed wildly about after
penguins, and their shots were heard all night. Next
348 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
morning the commander of the Kainan Maru, whose
name was Homura, came on board. The same day a
tent was set up on the edge of the Barrier, and cases,
sledges, and so on, were put out on the ice. Kainan
Maru means, I have been told, "the ship that opens
the South."
Prestrud and I went on board her later in the day, to
see what she was like, but we met neither the leader of
the expedition nor the captain of the ship. Prestrud
had the cinematograph apparatus with him, and a lot of
photographs were also taken.
The leader of the Japanese expedition has written
somewhere or other that the reason of Shackleton's
losing all his ponies was that the ponies were not kept
in tents at night, but had to lie outside. He thought
the ponies ought to be in the tents and the men outside.
From this one would think they were great lovers of
animals, but I must confess that was not the impression
I received. They had put penguins into little boxes to
take them alive to Japan ! Round about the deck lay
dead and half -dead skua gulls in heaps. On the ice
close to the vessel was a seal ripped open, with part of
its entrails on the ice; but the seal was still alive.
Neither Prestrud nor I had any sort of weapon that we
could kill the seal with, so we asked the Japanese to do
it, but they only grinned and laughed. A little way off
two of them were coming across the ice with a seal in
front of them; they drove it on with two long poles.
THE SOUTHERN PARTY ARRIVES 349
with which they pricked it when it would not go. If it
fell into a crack, they dug it up again as you would see
men quarrying stone at home ; it had not enough life in
it to be able to escape its tormentors. All this was
accompanied by laughter and jokes. On arrival at the
ship the animal was nearly dead, and it* was left there
till it expired.
On the 19th we had a fresh south-westerly wind and
a lot of ice went out. The Japanese were occupied
most of the night in going round among the floes and
picking up men, dogs, cases, and so on, as they had put
a good deal on to the ice in the course of the day. As
the ice came out, so the Fram went in, right up to
lat. 78° 35' S., while the Kainan Maru drifted farther
and farther out, till at last she disappeared. Nor did
we see the vessel again, but a couple of men with a tent
stayed on the Barrier as long as we were in the bay.
On the night of the 24th there was a stiff breeze from
the west, and we drifted so far out in the thick snow
that it was only on the afternoon of the 27th that we
could make our way in again through a mass of ice. In
the course of these two days so much ice had broken up
that we came right in to lat. 78° 39' S., or almost to
Framheim, and that was very lucky. As we stood in
over the Bay of Whales, we caught sight of a big
Norwegian naval ensign flying on the Barrier at Cape
Man's Head, and I then knew that the southern party
had arrived. We went therefore as far south as possible
350 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRA^I "
and blew our powerful siren; nor was it very long
before eight men came tearing down. There was great
enthusiasm. The first man on board was the Chief; I
was so certain he had reached the goal that I never
asked him. Not till an hour later, when we had
discussed all kinds of other things, did I enquire:
" Well, of course you have been at the South Pole?"
We lay there for a couple of days ; on account of the
short distance from Framheim, provisions, outfit, etc.,
were brought on board. If such great masses of ice had
not drifted out in the last few days, it would probably
have taken us a week or two to get the same quantity
on board.
At 9.30 p.m. on January 30, 1912, in a thick fog, we
took our moorings on board and waved a last farewell
to the mighty Barrier.
VII.
From the Barrier to Buenos Aires, via Hob art.
The first day after our departure from the Barrier
everything we had taken on board was stowed away,
so that one would not have thought our numbers were
doubled, or that we had taken several himdred cases
and a lot of outfit on board. The change was only
noticed on deck, where thirty-nine powerful dogs made
an uproar all day long, and in the fore-saloon, which
«.
^
iGOING NORTHWARD 351
was entirely changed. This saloon, after being deserted
for a year, was now full of men, and it was a pleasure
to be there; especially as everyone had something to
tell — the Chief of his trip, Prestrud of his, and Gjertsen
and I of the Fram's.
However, there was not very much time for yarning.
The Chief at once began writing cablegrams and lectures,
which Prestrud and I translated into English, and the
Chief then copied again on a typewriter. In addition
to this I was occupied the whole time in drawing
charts, so that on arrival at Hobart everything was
ready; the time passed quickly, though the voyage was
fearfully long.
As regards the pack-ice we were extremely lucky.
It lay in exactly the same spot where we had met with
it in 1911 — that is, in about lat. 75° S. We went along
the edge of it for a very short time, and then it was
done with. To the north of 75° we saw nothing but
a few small icebergs.
We made terribly slow progress to the northward,
how slow may perhaps be understood if I quote my
diary for February 27:
" This trip is slower than anything we have had
before; now and then we manage an average rate of
two knots an hour in a day's run. In the last four
days we have covered a distance that before would
have been too little for a single day. We have been
at it now for nearly a month, and are still only between
352 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRA]\I
>»
lat. 52° and 53° S, Gales from the north are almost
the order of the day," etc. However, it is an ill wind
that hlows nobody any good, and the time was well
employed with all we had to do.
After a five weeks' struggle we at last reached Hobart
and anchored in the splendid harbour on ^March 7.
Our fresh provisions from Buenos Aires just lasted
out ; the last of the fresh potatoes were finished a couple
of days before our arrival, and the last pig was killed
when we had been at Hobart two days.
The Fram remained here for thirteen days, which
were chiefly spent in repairing the propeller and clean-
ing the engine; in addition to this the topsail-yard,
which was nearly broken in the middle, was spliced,
as we had no opportunity of getting a new one.
The first week was quiet on board, as, owing to the
circumstances, there was no communication with the
shore; but after that the ship was full of visitors, so
that we were not very sorry to get away again.
Twenty-one of our dogs were presented to Dr. ^lawson,
the leader of the Australian expedition, and only those
dogs that had been to the South Pole and a few puppies,
eighteen in all, were left on board.
While we lay in Hobart, Dr. Mawson's ship, the
Aurora, came in. I went aboard her one day, and
have thus been on board the vessels of all the present
Antarctic expeditions. On the Terra Nova, the British,
on February 4, 1911, in the Bay of Whales; on the
WE LEAVE HOBART 353
Deutschland, the German, in September and October,
1911, in Buenos Aires; on the Kainan Maru, the
Japanese, on January 17, 1912, in the Bay of Whales;
and finally on the Aurora in Hobart. Not forgetting
the Fram, which, of course, I think best of all.
On March 20 the Fram weighed anchor and left
Tasmania.
We made very poor progress to begin with, as we
had calms for nearly three weeks, in spite of its being
the month of March in the west wind belt of the South
Pacific. On the morning of Easter Sunday, April 7,
the wind first freshened from the north-west and blew
day after day, a stiff breeze and a gale alternately, so
that we went splendidly all the way to the Falkland
Islands, in spite of the fact that the topsail was reefed
for nearly five weeks on account of the fragile state of
the yard. I believe most of us wanted to get on fast;
the trip was now over for the present, and those who
had families at home naturally wanted to be with them
as soon as they could; perhaps that was why we went
so well.
On April 1 Mrs. Snuppesen gave birth to eight pups ;
four of these were killed, while the rest, two of each
sex, were allowed to live.
On Maundy Thursday, April 4, we were in long. 180°
and changed the date, so that we had two Maundy
Thursdays in one week; this gave us a good many
holidays running, and I cannot say the effect is alto-
354 THE VOYAGE OF THE " FRAM "
gether cheerful; it was a good thing when Easter
Tuesday came round as an ordinary week-day.
On ]May 6 we passed Cape Horn in very fair weather ;
it is true we had a snow-squall of hurricane violence,
but it did not last much more than half an hour. For
a few days the temperature was a little below freezing-
point, but it rose rapidly as soon as we were out in the
Atlantic.
From Hobart to Cape Horn we saw no ice.
After passing the Falkland Islands we had a head
wind, so that the last part of the trip was nothing to
boast of.
On the night of May 21 we passed JNIontevideo, where
the Chief had arrived a few hours before. From here
up the River La Plata we went so slowly on account
of head wind that we did not anchor in the roads of
Buenos Aires till the afternoon of the 23rd, almost
exactly at the same time as the Chief landed at Buenos
Aires. When I went ashore next morning and met
Mr. P. Christophersen, he was in great good-humour.
" This is just like a fairy tale," he said; and it could not
be denied that it was an amusing coincidence. The
Chief, of course, was equally pleased.
On the 25th, the Argentine National Fete, the Fram
was moored at the same quay that we had left on
October 5, 1911. At our departure there were exactly
seven people on board to say good-bye, but, as far as
I could see, there were more than this when we arrived ;
THE END 355
and I was able to make out, from newspapers and other
sources, that in the course of a couple of months the
third 2^ra7?i Expedition had grown considerably in popu-
larity.
In conclusion I will give one or two data. Since the
Fram left Christiania on June 7, 1910, we have been
two and a half times round the globe; the distance
covered is about 54,400 nautical miles ; the lowest read-
ing of the barometer during this time was 27'56 inches
(700 millimetres) in March, 1911, in the South Pacific,
and the highest 30*82 inches (783 millimetres ) in October,
1911, in the South Atlantic.
On June 7, 1912, the second anniversary of our
leaving Christiania, all the members of the Expedition,
except the Chief and myself, left for Norway, and
the first half of the Expedition was thus brought to
a fortunate conclusion.
APPENDIX I
THE "FRAM"
By Commodore Christian Blom
Colin Archer says in his description of the Fram, in Fridtjof
Nansen's account of the Norwegian Arctic Expedition, 1893-1896,
that the successful result of an expedition such as that planned and
carried out by Dr. Nansen in the years 1893-1896 must depend on
the care with which all possible contingencies are foreseen, and
precautions taken to meet them, and the choice of every detail of
the equipment with special regard to the use to which it will be
put. To no part of the equipment, he says, could this apply with
greater force than to the ship which was to carry Dr. Nansen and
his companions on their adventurous voyage.
Colin Archer then built the ship — Fram was her name — and she
showed — first on Fridtjof Nansen's famous voyage, and afterwards
on Sverdrup's long wintering expedition in Ellesmere Land, that
she answered her purpose completely, nay, she greatly exceeded the
boldest expectations.
Then Roald Amundsen decided to set out on a voyage not less ad-
venturous than the two former, and he looked about for a suitable
ship. It was natural that he should think of the Framy but she
was old — about sixteen years — and had been exposed to many a
hard buffet; it was said that she was a good deal damaged by
decay.
Roald Amundsen, however, did not allow himself to be dis-
couraged by these misgivings, but wished to see for himself what
356
THE "FRAM" 357
kind of a craft the From was after her two commissions. He
therefore came down to Horten with Colin Archer on June 1, 1908,
and made a thorough examination of the vessel. He then, in the
spring of 1909, requested the Naval Dockyard at Horten to repair
the ship and carry out the alterations he considered necessary for
his enterprise.
Before giving an accoimt of the repairs and alterations to the
vessel in 1909-1910, we shall briefly recapitulate, with the author's
permission, a part of the description of the Fram in Fridtjof
Nansen's work, especially as regards the constructive peculiarities
of the vessel.
The problem which it was sought to solve in the construction of
the Fram was that of providing a ship which could survive the
crushing embrace of the Arctic drift-ice. To fit her for this was
the object before which all other considerations had to give way.
But apart from the question of mere strength of construction,
there were problems of design and model which, it was thought,
would play an important part in the attainment of the chief object.
It is sometimes prudent in an encounter to avoid the full force of a
blow instead of resisting it, even if it could be met without damage;
and there was reason to think that by a judicious choice of model
something might be done to break the force of the ice-pressure, and
thus lessen its danger. Examples of this had been seen in small
Norwegian vessels that had been caught in the ice near Spitzbergen
and Novaya Zemlya. It often happens that they are lifted right
out of the water by the pressure of the ice without sustaining
serious damage; and these vessels are not particularly strong, but
have, like most small sailing-ships, a considerable dead rising and
sloping sides. The ice encounters these sloping sides and presses in
under the bilge on both sides, until the ice-edges meet under the
keel, and the ship is raised up into the bed that is formed by the
ice itself.
In order to turn this principle to account, it was decided to
depart entirely from the usual flat-bottomed frame-section, and to
358
APPENDIX I
adopt a form that would ofPer no vulnerable point on the ship's
side, but would cause the increasing horizontal pressure of the ice
to effect a raising of the ship, as described above. In the construc-
tion of the Fram it was sought to solve this problem by avoiding
plane or concave surfaces, thus giving the vessel as far as possible
round and full lines. Besides increasing the power of resistance to
external pressure, this form has the advantage of making it easy
for the ice to glide along the bottom in any direction.
The Fram was a three-masted fore-and-aft schooner with an
auxiliary engine of 200 indicated horse-power, which was calculated
to give her a speed of 6 knots, when moderately loaded, with a coal
consumption of 2'8 tons a day.
The vessel was designed to be only large enough to carry the
necessary coal-supply, provisions, and other equipment for a period
of five years, and to give room for the crew.
Her principal dimensions are:
Length of keel
Length of waterline
Length over all
Beam on waterline
Greatest beam
Depth
103-3 English feet.
119
128
34
36
172
Her displacement, with a draught of 15*6 feet, is 800 tons. The
measurements are taken to the outside of the planks, but do not
include the ice-skin. By Custom-house measurement she was
found to be 402 gross tons register, and 307 tons net.
The ship, with engines and boilers, was calculated to weigh
about 420 tons. With the draught above mentioned, which gives
a freeboard of 3 feet, there would thus be 380 tons available for
cargo. This weight was actually exceeded by 100 tons, which left
a freeboard of only 20 inches when the ship sailed on her first
voyage. This additional immersion could only have awkward
effects when the ship came into the ice, as its effect would then be
to retard the lifting by the ice, on which the safety of the ship was
THE "FRAM" 359
believed to depend In a great measure. Not only was there a
greater weight to lift, but there was a considerably greater danger
of the walls of ice, that would pile themselves against the ship's
sides, falling over the bulwarks and covering the deck before the
ice began to raise her. The load would, however, be lightened by
the time the ship was frozen fast. Events showed that she was
readily lifted when the ice-pressure set in, and that the danger of
injury from falling blocks of ice was less than had been expected.
The Fr ant's keel is of American elm in two lengths, 14 inches
square; the room and space is 2 feet. The frame-timbers are
almost all of oak obtained from the Naval Dockyard at Horten,
where they had lain for many years, thus being perfectly seasoned.
The timbers were all grown to shape. The frames consist of two
tiers of timbers everywhere, each timber measuring 10 to 11 inches
fore and aft; the two tiers of timbers are fitted together and
bolted, so that they form a solid and compact whole. The joints
of the frame - timbers are covered with iron plates. The lining
consists of pitch-pine in good lengths and of varying thickness from
4 to 6 inches. The keelson is also of pitch-pine, in two layers, one
above the other; each layer 15 inches square from the stem to the
engine-room. Under the boiler and engine there was only room
for one keelson. There are two decks. The beams of the main-
deck are of American or German oak, those of the lower deck and
half-deck of pitch-pine and Norwegian fir. All the deck planks are
of Norwegian fir, 4 inches in the main-deck and 3 inches elsewhere.
The beams are fastened to the ship's sides by knees of Norwegian
spruce, of which about 450 were used. Wooden knees were, as
a rule, preferred to iron ones, as they are more elastic. A good
many iron knees were used, however, where wood was less suitable.
In the boiler and engine room the beams of the lower deck had to
be raised about 3 feet to give sufficient height for the engines.
The upper deck was similarly raised from the stern-post to the
mainmast, forming a half-deck, under which the cabins were placed.
On this half-deck, immediately forward of the funnel, a deck-house
360 APPENDIX I
was placed, arranged as a chart-house, from which two companions
(one on each side) led down to the cabins. Besides the ice-skin,
there is a double layer of outside planking of oak. The two first
strakes (garboard strakes), however, are single, 7 inches thick, and
are bolted both to the keel and to the frame-timbers. The first
(inner) layer of planks is 3 inches thick, and is only fastened with
nails; outside this comes a layer of 4-inch planks, fastened with
oak trenails and through bolts, as usual. The two top strakes are
single again, and 6 inches thick. The ice-skin is of greenheart, and
covers the whole ship's side from the keel to 18 inches from the
sheer strake. It is only fastened with nails and jagged bolts.
Each layer of planks was caulked and pitched before the next one
was laid. Thus only about 3 or 4 inches of the keel projects
below the planking, and this part of the keel is rounded off so as
not to hinder the ice from passing under the ship's bottom. The
intervals between the timbers were filled with a mixture of coal-tar,
pitch, and sawdust, heated together and put in warm. The ship's
side thus forms a compact mass varying in thickness from 28 to 32
inches. As a consequence of all the intervals between the timbers
being filled up, there is no room for bilge-water under the lining.
A loose bottom was therefore laid a few inches above the lining on
each side of the keelson. In order to strengthen the ship's sides
still more, and especially to prevent stretching, iron braces were
placed on the lining, running from the clamps of the top deck
down to well past the floor-timbers.
The stem consists of three massive oak beams, one inside the
other, forming together 4 feet of solid oak fore and aft, with a
breadth of 15 inches. The three external plankings as well as the
lining are all rabbeted into the stem. The propeller-post is in
two thicknesses, placed side by side, and measures 26 inches
athwurt-ship and 14 inches fore and aft. It will be seen from the
plan that the overhang aft runs out into a point, and that
there is thus no transom. To each side of the stern-post is fitted
a stout stern-timber parallel to the longitudinal midship section.
THE "FRAM" 361
forming, so to speak, a double stern-post, and the space between
them forms a well, which goes right up through the top deck.
The rudder-post is placed in the middle of this well, and divides
it into two parts, one for the propeller and one for the rudder.
In this way it is possible to lift both the rudder and the screw out
of the water. The rudder is so hung that the rudder-stock, which
is cylindrical, turns on its own axis, to prevent the rudder being
jammed if the well should be filled with ice. Aft of the rudder-
well the space between the stern-timbers is filled with solid wood,
and the whole is securely bolted together with bolts running
athwart-ship. The frame-timbers join the stern-timbers in this
part, and are fastened to them by means of knees. The stem and
stern-post are connected to the keelson and to the keel by stout
knees of timber, and both the ship's sides are bound together with
solid breasthooks and crutches of wood or iron.
Although the Fram, was not specially built for ramming, it was
probable that now and then she would be obliged to force her way
through the ice. Her bow and stern were therefore shod in the
usual way. On the forward side of the stem a segment-shaped
iron was bolted from the bobstay-bolt to some way under the keel.
Outside this iron plates (3 x ^ inches) were fastened over the
stem, and for 6 feet on each side of it. These iron plates were
placed close together, and thus formed a continuous armour-
plating to a couple of feet from the keel. The sharp edge of the
stern was protected in the same way, and the lower sides of the
well were lined with thick iron plates. The rudder-post, which
owing to its exposed position may be said to form the Achilles'
heel of the ship, was strengthened with three heavy pieces of iron,
one in the opening for the screw and one on each side of the two
posts and the keel, and bolted together with bolts running athwart-
ship.
Extraordinary precautions were taken for strengthening the
ship's sides, which were particularly exposed to destruction by ice-
pressure, and which, on account of their form, compose the weakest
VOL. II. 49
362 APPENDIX I
part of the hull. These precautions will best be seen in the
sections (Figs. 3 and 4). Under each beam in both decks were
placed diagonal stays of fir (6 x 10 inches), almost at right angles
to the ship's sides, and securely fastened to the sides and to the
beams by wooden knees. There are 68 of these stays distributed
©ver the ship. In addition, there are under the beams three rows
of vertical stanchions between decks, and one row in the lower
hold from the keelson. These are connected to the keelson, to the
beams, and to each other by iron bands. The whole of the ship's
interior is thus filled with a network of braces and stays, arranged
in such a way as to transfer and distribute the pressure from
without, and give rigidity to the whole construction. In the
Aigine and boiler room it was necessary to modify the arrange-
ment of stays, so as to give room for the engines and boiler.
All the iron, with the exception of the heaviest forgings, is
galvanized.
When Otto Sverdrup was to use the Fram for his Polar expedi-
tion, he had a number of alterations carried out. The most im-
portant of these consisted in laying a new deck in the fore part of
the ship, from the bulkhead forward of the engine-room to the
stem, at a height of 7 feet 4 inches (to the upper side of the
planks) above the old fore-deck. The space below the new deck
was fitted as a fore-cabin, with a number of state-rooms leading
out of it, a large workroom, etc. The old chart-house immediately
forward of the funnel was removed, and in its place a large water-
tank was fitted. The foremast was raised and stepped in the
lower deck. A false keel, 10 inches deep and 12 inches broad,
was placed below the keel. A number of minor alterations were
also carried out.
After the Fram returned in 1902 from her second expedition
under Captain Sverdrup, she was sent down to Horten to be laid
up in the Naval Dockyard.
Not long after the vessel had arrived at the dockyard. Captain
Sverdrup proposed various repairs and alterations. The repairs
THE "FRAM" 363
were carried out in part, but the alterations were postponed pend-
ing a decision as to the future employment of the vessel.
The Fram then lay idle in the naval harbour until 1905, when
she was used by the marine artillery as a floating magazine. In
the same year a good deal of the vessel's outfit (amongst other
things all her sails and most of her rigging) was lost in a fire in
one of the naval storehouses, where these things were stored.
In 1903 the ship's keel and stem (which are of elm and oak)
were sheathed with zinc, while the outer sheathing (ice-skin),
which is of greenheart, was kept coated with coal-tar and copper
composition. In 1907 the whole outer sheathing below the water-
line was covered with zinc; this was removed in 1910 when the
ship was prepared for her third commission under Roald Amundsen.
In 1907 a thorough examination of the vessel was made, as
it was suspected that the timber inside the thick cork insulation
that surrounded the cabins had begun to decay.
On previous expeditions the cabins, provision hold aft, and
workrooms forward of the fore-cabin, had been insulated with
several thicknesses of wooden panelling. The interstices were
filled with finely-divided cork, alternately with remdeer hair and
thick felt and linoleum. In the course of years damp had pene-
trated into the non-conducting material, with the result that
fungus and decay had spread in the surrounding woodwork. Thus
it was seen during the examination in 1907 that the panelling and
ceiling of the cabins in question were to a great extent rotten
or attacked by fungus. In the same way the under side of the
upper deck over these cabins was partly attacked by fungus, as
were its beams, knees, and carlings. The lower deck, on the other
hand, was better preserved. The filling-in timbers of spruce or fir
between the frame-timbers in the cabins were damaged by fungus,
while the frame-timbers themselves, which were of oak, were good.
The outer lining outside the insulated parts was also somewhat
damaged by fungus.
In the coal-bunkers over the main-deck the spruce knees were
364 APPENDIX I
partly rotten, as were some of the beams, while the Imlng was here
fairly good.
The masts and main-topmast were somewhat attacked by decay,
while the rest of the spars were good.
During and after the examination all the panelling and insulation
was removed, the parts attacked by fungus or decay were also re-
moved, and the woodwork coated with carbolineum or tar. The masts
and various stores and fittings were taken ashore at the same time.
It was found that the rest of the vessel — that is, the whole of
the lower part of the hull right up to the cabin deck — was per-
fectly sound, and as good as new. Nor was there any sign of
strain anywhere. It is difficult to imagine any better proof of the
excellence of the vessel's construction; after two protracted ex-
peditions to the most northern regions to which any ship has ever
penetrated, where the vessel was often exposed to the severest ice-
pressure, and in spite of her being (in 1907) fifteen years old, the
examination showed that her actual hull, the part of the ship that
has to resist the heavy strain of water and ice, was in just as good
condition as when she was new.
The vessel was then left in this state until, as already men-
tioned, Roald Amundsen and her builder, Colin Archer, came
down to the dockyard on June 1, 1908, and with the necessary
assistance made an examination of her.
After some correspondence and verbal conferences between
Roald Amundsen and the dockyard, the latter, on March 9, 1909,
made a tender for the repairs and alterations to the Fram. The
repairs consisted of making good the damage to the topsides
referred to above.
The alterations were due in the first instance to the circum-
stance that the steam-engine and boiler (the latter had had its
flues burnt out on Sverdrup's expedition) were to be replaced by
an oil-motor; as a consequence of this the coal-bunkers would
disappear, while, on the other hand, a large number of oil-tanks,
capable of containing about 90 tons of oil, were to be put in.
THE "FRAM" 365
It was also considered desirable to rig square-sails on the foremast
in view of the great distances that were to be sailed on the pro-
posed expedition.
The present arrangement of the vessel will best be followed by
referring to the elevation and plan (Figs. 1 and 2).
In the extreme after-part of the lower hold is placed the
180 horse-power Diesel engine, surrounded by its auxiliary
machinery and air-reservoirs.
In addition, some of the tanks containing the fuel itself are
placed in the engine-room (marked O) ; the other tanks shown in
the engine-room (marked 9) serve for storing lubricating oil. The
existing engine-room was formerly the engine and boiler room,
with coal-bunkers on both sides in the forward part. Forward of
the watertight bulkhead of the engine-room we have, in the lower
hold, the main store of oil-fuel, contained in tanks (marked 0) of
various sizes, on account of their having to be placed among the
numerous diagonal stays. The tanks are filled and emptied by
means of a pump and a petroleum hose through a manhole in the
top, over which, again, are hatches in the deck above; no connect-
ing pipes are fitted between the different tanks, for fear they might
be damaged by frost or shock, thus involving a risk of losing oil.
The main supply tank for fuel is placed over the forward side of
the engine-room, where it is supported on strong steel girders;
inside this tank, again, there are two smaller ones — settling tanks —
from which the oil is conveyed in pipes to the engine-pumps.
The main tank is of irregular shape — as will be seen from the
drawing — since a square piece is taken out of its starboard after-
corner for a way down into the engine-room. Besides this way
down, an emergency way leads up from the engine-room, right aft,
to one of the after-cabins. The oil hold is closed forward by a
watertight bulkhead, which goes up to the main-deck. The hold
forward of the oil-supply is unaltered, and serves for stowing cargo
(mainly provisions), as does the hold above the oil-supply and
below the main-deck.
366 APPENDIX I
On the main-deck right aft we now find a space arranged on
each side of the well for the propeller and rudder; the lower part
of this space is occupied by two tanks for lamp-oil, and above the
tanks is a thin partition, which forms the floor of two small sail-
rooms, with hatches to the deck above. Around the mizzenmast
is the after-saloon, with eight cabins leading out of it. From the
forward end of the after-saloon two passages lead to the large
workroom amidships. These passages run past what were for-
merly coal-bunkers, but are now arranged as cabins, intended only
to be used in milder climates, as they are not provided with any
special insulation. From the port passage a door leads to the
engine-room companion. In the after-part of the large workroom
is the galley. This room is entirely hned with zinc, both on walls
and ceiling (on account of the danger of fire), while the deck is
covered with lead, on which tiles are laid in cement. Forward of
the galley is the main hatch, and two large water- tanks are fitted
here, one on each side. The remainder of the workroom affords
space for carpenter's benches, turning-lathes, a forge, vices, etc.
From the workroom two doors lead into the fore-saloon with its
adjoining cabins. Amundsen's cabin is the farthest forward on the
starboard side, and communicates with an instrument-room. From
the fore-saloon a door leads out forward, past a sixth cabin.
In the space forward on the main-deck we have the fore-hatch,
and by the side of this a room entirely lined with zinc plates,
which serves for storing furs. Forward of the fur store is fitted a
15 horse-power one-cylinder Bolinder motor for working the cap-
stan; the main features of its working will be seen in the drawing.
There are two independent transmissions: by belt and by chain.
The former is usually employed. The chain transmission was pro-
vided as a reserve, since it was feared that belt-driving might
prove unserviceable in a cold climate. This fear, however, has
hitherto been ungrounded.
Forward of the motor there is a large iron tank to supply water
for cooling it. In the same space are chain-pipes to the locker
THE TRAM" 367
below and the heel of the bowsprit. This space also serves as
cable-tier.
On the upper deck we find aft the opening of the rudder-well
and that of the propeller-well, covered with gratings. A piece
was added to the lower part of the rudder to give more rudder
area.
Forward of the propeller-well comes the reserve steering-gear,
almost in the same position formerly occupied by the only steering-
gear; the ordinary steering-gear is now moved to the bridge.
The old engine-room companion aft is now removed, and forward
of the after-wheel is only the skylight of the after-saloon. Up
through the latter comes the exhaust-pipe of the main engine.
Forward of and round the mizzenmast is the bridge, which is
partly formed by the roofs of the large chart-house and labora-
tory amidships and the two houses on each side. The chart-house
occupies the place of the old boiler-room ventilator, and abuts on
the fore-deck. (It is thus a little aft of the place occupied by
the chart-house on Nansen's expedition.) It is strongly built of
timbers standing upright, securely bolted to the deck. On both
sides of this timber work there are panels, 2 inches thick on the
outside and 1 inch on the inside, and the space between is filled
with finely-divided cork. Floor and roof are insulated in a similar
way, as is also the door; the windows are double, of thick plate-
glass. Inside the chart-house, besides the usual fittings for its use
as such, there is a companion-way to the engine-room, and a hatch
over the manhole to the main supply tank for oil-fuel. The open-
ing in the deck has a hatch, made like the rest of the deck (in two
thicknesses, with cork insulation between) ; the intention is to cut
off the engine-room altogether, and remove the entrance of this
companion during the drift in the ice through the Polar sea.
The side houses are constructed of iron, and are not panelled;
they are intended for w.c. and lamp-room. On the roof of the
chart-house are the main steering-gear and the engine-room tele-
graph. On the port side, on the forward part of the after-deck.
368 APPENDIX I
a Downton pump is fitted, which can either be worked by hand or
by a small motor, which also serves to drive the sounding-machine,
and is set up on the after-deck. Forward of the starboard side
house is the spare rudder, securely lashed to deck and bulwarks.
On each side of the chart-house a bridge leads to the fore-deck,
with ways down to the workroom and fore-saloon. On the fore-
deck, a little forward of the mainmast, we find the two ship's
pumps proper, constructed of wood. The suction-pipe is of wood,
covered on the outside with lead, so as to prevent leakage through
possible cracks in the wood; the valves are of leather, and the
piston of wood, with a leather covering. The pump-action is the
usual nickel action, that was formerly general on our ships, and is
still widely used on smacks. These simple pumps have been shown
by experience to work better than any others in severe cold. The
fore-deck also has skylights over the fore-saloon, the main and
fore hatches, and finally the capstan. This is of the ordinary
horizontal type, from Pusnes Engineering Works; it is driven by
the motor below, as already mentioned. The capstan can also be
used as a winch, and it can be worked by hand-power.
The Fram carries six boats : one large decked boat (29 x 9 x
4 feet) — one of the two large boats carried on Nansen's expedition —
placed between the mainmast and the foremast, over the skylight ;
three whale-boats (20 x 6 feet), and one large and one small
pram; the two last are carried on davits as shown in the drawing.
One of these whale-boats was left behind on the Ice Barrier, where
it was buried in snow when the ship left. It was brought ashore
that the wintering party might have a boat at their disposal after
the Fram had sailed.
For warming the vessel it is intended to use only petroleum.
For warming the laboratory (chart-house) there is an arrangement
by which hot air from the galley is brought up through its forward
wall.
The vessel was provided with iron chain plates bolted to the
timbers above the ice-skin. The mizzenmast is new. There was a
THE "FRAM" 369
crack in the beam that forms the support for the mizzenmast; it
was therefore strengthened with two heavy iron plates, secured by
through-bolts. Two strong steel stanchions were also placed on
each side of the engine, carried down to the frame- timbers. The
old mizzenmast has been converted into a bowsprit and jib-boom in
one piece. There are now standing gaffs on all three masts. The
sail area is about 6,640 square feet.
All the cabins are insulated in the same way as before, though it
has been found possible to simplify this somewhat. In general the
insulation consists of:
1. In the cabins, against the ship's side and under the upper
deck, there is first a layer of cork, and over that a double panelling
of wood with tarred felt between.
2. Above the orlop deck aft there is a layer of cork, and above
this a floor of boards covered with linoleum.
3. Under the orlop deck forward there is wooden panelling, with
linoleum over the deck.
Bulkheads abutting on parts of the ship that are not warmed
consist of three thicknesses of boards or planks with various non-
conducting materials, such as cork or felt, between them.
When the vessel was docked before leaving Horten, the zinc
sheathing was removed, as already stated, since fears were enter-
tained that it would be torn by the ice, and would then prevent the
ice from slipping readily under the bottom during pressure. The
vessel has two anchors, but the former port anchor has been replaced
by a considerably heavier one (1 ton 1| hundredweight), with a
correspondingly heavier chain-cable. This was done with a special
view to the voyage round Cape Horn.
In order to trim the ship as much as possible by the stern, which
was desirable on account of her carrying a weather helm, a number
of heavy spare stores, such as the old port anchor and its cable,
were stowed aft, and the extreme after-peak was filled with cement
containing round pieces of iron punched out of plates.
Along the railing round the fore-deck strong netting has been
370 APPENDIX I
placed to prevent the dogs falling overboard. For the upper deck
a loose wooden grating has been made, so that the dogs shall not
lie on the wet deck. Awnings are provided over the whole deck,
with only the necessary openings for working the ship. In this
way the dogs have been given dry and, as far as possible, cool
quarters for the voyage through the tropics. It is proposed to use
the ship's spars as supports for a roof of boards, to be put up
during the drift through the ice as a protection against falling
masses of ice.
The Frairi's new engine is a direct reversible Marine-Polar-
Motor, built by the Diesel Motor Co., of Stockliolm. It is a Diesel
engine, with four working and two air-pump cylinders, and
develops normally at 280 revolutions per minute 180 effective horse-
power, with a consumption of oil of about 7f ounces per effective
horse-power per hour. With this comparatively small consumption,
the Frarns fuel capacity will carry her much farther than if she had
a steam-engine, a consideration of great importance in her forth-
coming long voyage in the Arctic Sea. With her oil capacity of
about 90 tons, she will thus be able to go uninterruptedly for
about 2,273 hours, or about 95 days. If we reckon her speed
under engine power alone at 4| knots, she will be able to go about
10,000 nautical miles without replenishing her oil-supply. It is a
fault in the new engine that its number of revolutions is very high,
which necessitates the use of a propeller of small diameter (5 feet
9 inches), and thus of low efficiency in the existing conditions.
This is the more marked on account of the unusual thickness of the
Frarns propeller-post, which masks the propeller to a great extent.
The position of the engine will be seen in Fig. 1. The exhaust
gases from the engine are sent up by a pipe through the after-
saloon, through its skylight, and up to a large valve on the bridge;
from this valve two horizontal pipes run along the after side of the
bridge, one to each side. By means of the valve the gases can be
diverted to one side or the other, according to the direction of the
wind.
-ELEVATION.
FIG. i. — PLAN OF UPPER DECK.
FIG. 3. — SECTION AMIDSHIPS.
A. Workrouin.
IJ. Ch irL-houso.
C. Fur 6ti>ragc room.
I. [nsulaiiun,
K. Galley.
L, Cabin u.
M. Provlaion and lUfiju hold.
N. Huti'lies.
O. Oil-fuel tanks.
S. CjlLlOllD.
W. WaU-rtiglit bulkhead.
. Motijr for cttpstan, with wat^r-tank for cooling.
, Capsbui.
. Frame-timbera.
. Juiictiou of keel and etcm.
, Deck btanchiona,
. Diagonal stays.
. Main ongine.
. Silencer.
, LuLricating-oil binks.
Fly-wheel,
, Axle.
FIO. 4. — SECTION AT THE ENGINE-ROOM.
12. Exhau8l>pipe.
13. Bilge-pump.
14. Skylight.
15. Engine-room companion.
IQ. Piano.
17. Sofa.
IB. Propeller-well.
19. Rndder-wcll,
20. Steering -geiir.
■21. Store for paraffiu-tanka below and aiiU-room above.
At end of Appendix /., ('"(. //.
THE "FRAM" 371
Besides the usual auxiliary engines, the main engine drives a
large centrifugal bilge-pump, an ordinary machine bilge-pump, and
a fan for use in the tropics.
When the Fram left Christiania in the spring of 1910, after
taking her cargo on board, she drew 17 feet forward and 19 feet
5 inches aft. This corresponds to a displacement (measured outside
the ice-skin) of about 1,100 tons. The ice-skin was then 12| inches
above the waterline amidships.
APPENDIX II
REMARKS ON THE METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVA-
TIONS AT FRAMHEIM
By B. J. BlRKELAND
On account of the improvised character of the South Polar Expedi-
tion, the meteorological department on the Fram was not so
complete as it ought to have been. It had not been possible to
provide the aerological outfit at the time of sailing, and the
meteorologist of the expedition was therefore left behind in
Norway. But certain things were wanting even to complete the
equipment of an ordinary meteorological station, such as minimum
thermometers and the necessary instructions that should have
accompanied one or two of the instruments. Fortunately, among
the veterans of the expedition there were several practised observers,
and, notwithstanding all drawbacks,a fine series of observations was
obtained during ten months' stay in winter-quarters on the Antarctic
continent. These observations wall provide a valuable supplement
to the simultaneous records of other expeditions, especially the
British in McMurdo Sound and the German in Weddell Sea, above
all as regards the hypsometer observations (for the determination of
altitude) on sledge journeys. It may be hoped, in any case, that it
will be possible to interpolate the atmospheric pressure at sea-level
in all parts of the Antarctic continent that were traversed by the
sledging expeditions. For this reason the publication of a pro-
visional working out of the observations is of great importance at
the present moment, although the general public will, perhaps, look
372
METEOROLOGY 373
upon the long rows of figures as tedious and superfluous. The
complete working out of these observations can only be published
after a lapse of some years.
As regards the accuracy of the figures here given, it must be
noted that at present we know nothing about possible alterations
in the errors of the different instruments, as it will not be possible
to have the instruments examined and compared until we arrive at
San Francisco next year. We have provisionally used the errors
that were determined at the Norwegian Meteorological Institute
before the expedition sailed; it does not appear, however, that they
have altered to any great extent.
The meteorological outfit on the Fram consisted of the following
instruments and apparatus:
Three mercury barometers, namely:
One normal barometer by Fuess, No. 361.
One Kew standard barometer by Adie, No. 839.
One Kew marine barometer by Adie, No. 764.
Five aneroid barometers:
One large instrument with thermometer attached, without
name or number.
Two pocket aneroids by Knudsen, Copenhagen, one
numbered 1,503.
Two pocket aneroids by Gary, London, Nos. 1,367 and
1,368, for altitudes up to 5,000 metres (16,350 feet).
Two hypsometers by Casella, with several thermometers.
Mercury thermometers:
Twelve ordinary standard (psychrometer-) thermometers,
divided to fifths of a degree (Centigrade).
Ten ordinary standard thermometers, divided to degrees.
Four sling thermometers, divided to half degrees.
Three maximum thermometers, divided to degrees.
One normal thermometer by Mollenkopf, No. 25.
374 APPENDIX II
Toluene thermometers:
Eighteen sHng thermometers, divided to degrees.
Three normal thermometers — by Tounelot, No. 4,993, and
Baudin, Nos. 14,803 and 14,804.
Two torsion hair hygrometers of Russeltvedt's construction,
Nos. 12 and 14.
One cup and cross anemometer of Professor Mohn's construc-
tion, with spare cross.
One complete set of precipitation gauges, with Nipher's shield,
gauges for snow density, etc.
Registering instruments:
Two barographs.
Two thermographs.
One hair hygrograph.
A number of spare parts, and a supply of paper and ink
for seven years.
In addition, various books were taken, such as Mohn's "Meteorol-
ogy," the Meteorological Institute's "Guide," psychrometric tables,
Wiebe's steam-pressure tables for hypsometer observations, etc.
The marine barometer, the large aneroid, and one of the
barographs, the four mercury sling thermometers, and two whole-
degree standard thermometers, were kept on board the Frayyi,
where they were used for the regular observations every four hours
on the vessel's long voyages backwards and forwards.
As will be seen, the shore party was thus left without mercury
sling thermometers, besides having no minimum thermometers; the
three maximum thermometers proved to be of little use. There
were also various defects in the clockwork of the registering instru-
ments. The barographs and thermographs have been used on all
the Norwegian Polar expeditions; the hygrograph is also an old
instrument, which, in the course of its career, has worked for over
ten years in Christiania, where the atmosphere is by no means
METEOROLOGY 375
merciful to delicate instruments. Its clockwork had not been
cleaned before it was sent to the Fram, as was done in the case of
the other four instruments. The barographs worked irreproach-
ably the whole time, but one of the thermographs refused abso-
lutely to work in the open air, and unfortunately the spindle pivot
of the other broke as early as April 17. At first the clockwork of
the hygrograph would not go at all, as the oil had become thick,
and it was not until this had been removed by prolonged severe
heating (baking in the oven for several days) that it could be set
going; but then it had to be used for the thermograph, the
mechanism of which was broken, so that no registration was
obtained of the humidity of the air.
The resulting registrations are then as follows : from Framheim,
one set of barograms and two sets of thermograms, of which one
gives the temperature of the air and the other the temperature
inside the house, where the barometers and barograph were placed;
from the Fram we have barograms for the whole period from her
leaving Christiania, in 1910, to her arrival at Buenos Aires for the
third time, in 1912.
Of course, none of these registrations can be taken into account
in the provisional working out, as they will require many months'
work, which, moreover, cannot be carried out with advantage until
we have ascertained about possible changes of error in the instru-
ments. But occasional use has been made of them for purposes of
checking, and for supplying the only observation missing in the
ten months.
The meteorological station at Framheim was arranged in this
way : the barometers, barograph, and one thermograph hung inside
the house; they were placed in the kitchen, behind the door of the
living-room, which usually stood open, and thus protected them
from the radiant heat of the range. A thermometer, a hygrometer,
and the other thermograph were placed in a screen on high posts,
and with louvred sides, which stood at a distance of fifteen yards to
the south-west of the house. A little way beyond the screen.
376 APPENDIX II
again, stood the wind-vane and anemometer. At the end of
September the screen had to be moved a few yards to the east; the
snow had drifted about it until it was only 2| feet above the surface,
whereas it ought to stand at the height of a man. At the same
time the wind-vane was moved. The screen was constructed by
Lindstrom from his recollection of the old Fram screen.
The two mercury barometers, the Fuess normal, and the Adie
standard barometer, reached Framheim in good condition; as has
been said, they were hung in the kitchen, and the four pocket
aneroids were hung by the side of them. All six were read at the
daily observations at 8 a.m., 2 p.m., and 8 p.m. The normal
barometer, the instructions for which were missing, was used as a
siphon barometer, both the mercury levels being read, and the
bottom screw being locked fast; the usual mode of reading it, on
the other hand, is to set the lower level at zero on the scale by
turning the bottom screw at every observation, whereupon the
upper level only is set and read. The Adie standard barometer
is so arranged that it is only necessary to read the summit of the
mercury. It appears that there is some difference between the
atmospheric pressure values of the two instruments, but this is chiefly
due to the difficult and extremely variable conditions of temperature.
There may be a difference of as much as five degrees (Centigrade)
between the thermometers of the two barometers, in spite of their
hanging side by side at about the same height from the floor.
On the other hand, the normal barometer is not suited to daily
observations, especially in the Polar regions, and the double
reading entails greater liability of error. That the Adie baro-
meter is rather less sensitive than the other is of small importance,
as the variations of atmospheric pressure at Framheim were not
very great.
n the provisional working out, therefore, the readings of the
Adie barometer alone have been used; those of the normal
barometer, however, have been experimentally reduced for the
first and last months, April and January. The readings have
METEOROLOGY 377
been corrected for the temperature of the mercury, the constant
error of the instrument, and the variation of the force of gravity
from the normal in latitude 45°. The reduction to sea-level,
on the other hand, has not been made; it amounts to I'l milli-
metre at an air temperature of - 10° Centigrade.
The observations show that the pressure of the atmosphere is
throughout low, the mean for the ten months being 29 '07 inches
(738 '6 millimetres). It is lower in winter than in summer, July
having 28*86 inches (733 '1 millimetres), and December 29 '65
inches (753*3 millimetres), as the mean for the month, a difference
of 20*2 millimetres. The highest observation was 30*14 inches
(765*7 millimetres) on December 9, and the lowest 28*02 inches
(711*7 millimetres) on May 24, 1911; difference, 54 millimetres.
Air Temperature and Thermometers.
As has already been stated, minimum thermometers and mercury
sling thermometers were wanting. For the first six months only
toluene sling thermometers were used. Sling thermometers are
short, narrow glass thermometers, with a strong loop at the top;
before being read they are briskly swung round at the end of
a string about half a yard long, or in a special apparatus for the
purpose. The swinging brings the thermometer in contact with
a great volume of air, and it therefore gives the real temperature
of the air more readily than if it were hanging quietly in the
screen.
From October 1 a mercury thermometer was also placed in the
screen, though only one divided to whole degrees; those divided to
fifths of a degree would, of course, have given a surer reading. But
it is evident, nevertheless, that the toluene thermometers used are
correct to less than half a degree (Centigrade), and even this
difference may no doubt be explained by one thermometer being
slung while the other was fixed. The observations are, therefore,
given without any corrections. Only at the end of December
was exclusive use made of mercury thermometers. The maximum
VOL. II. 50
378 APPENDIX II
thermometers taken proved of so little use that they were soon
discarded; the observations have not been included here.
It was due to a misunderstanding that mercury thermometers
were not also used in the first half-year, during those periods when
the temperature did not go below the freezing-point of mercury
(-39°C.). But the toluene thermometers in use were old and
good instruments, so that the observations for this period may also
be regarded as perfectly reliable. Of course, all the thermometers
had been carefully examined at the Norwegian Meteorological
Institute, and at Framheim the freezing-point was regularly tested
in melting snow.
The results show that the winter on the Barrier was about
12° C. (21 '6° F.) colder than it usually is in McMurdo Sound,
where the British expeditions winter. The coldest month is
August, with a mean temperature of -445° C. (-48'1° F.); on
fourteen days during this month the temperature was below
-50° C. (-58° F.). The lowest temperature occurred on
August 13: -58-5° C. (-73-3° F.); the warmest day in that
month had a temperature of - 24° C. ( - 11*2° F.).
In October spring begins to approach, and in December the
temperature culminates with a mean for the month of - 6*6° C.
>( + 20'l° F.), and a highest maximum temperature of -0*2° C.
(+31*0° F.). The temperature was thus never above freezing-
point, even in the warmest part of the summer.
The daily course of the temperature — warmest at noon and
coldest towards morning — is, of course, not noticeable in winter,
as the sun is always below the horizon. But in April there is
a sign of it, and from September onward it is fairly marked,
although the difference between 2 p.m. and the mean of 8 a.m.
and 8 p.m. only amounts to 2° C. in the monthly mean.
Humidity of the Air.
For determining the relative humidity of the air the expedition
had two of Russeltvedt's torsion hygrometers. This instrument
METEOROLOGY
379
has been accurately described in the Meteorologische Zeitschrift,
1908, p. 396. It has the advantage that there are no axles or
sockets to be rusted or soiled, or filled with rime or drift-snow.
Pointer
The two horsehairs (h, h') that are used, are stretched tight by
a torsion clamp (Z, Z', and L), which also carries the pointer; the
position of the pointer varies with the length of the hairs, which.
380 APPENDIX II
again, is dependent on the degree of humidity of the air. (See
the diagrams.) These instruments have been in use in Norway for
several years, especially at inland stations, where the winter is
very cold, and they have shown themselves superior to all others in
accuracy and durability; but there was no one ©n the Fram who
knew anything about them, and there is therefore a possibility
that they were not always in such good order as could be wished.
On September 10, especially, the variations are very remarkable;
but on October 13 the second instrument, No. 12, was hung out,
and there can be no doubt of the correctness of the subsequent
observations.
It is seen that the relative humidity attains its maximum in
winter, in the months of July and August, with a mean of 90 per
cent. The driest air occurs in the spring month of November,
with a mean of 73 per cent. The remaining months vary between
79 and 86 per cent., and the mean of the whole ten months is
82 per cent. The variations quoted must be regarded as very
small. On the other hand, the figures themselves are very high,
when the low temperatures are considered, and this is doubtless
the result of there being open water not very far away. The
daily course of humidity is contrary to the course of the tempera-
ture, and does not show itself very markedly, except in January.
The absolute humidity, or partial pressure of aqueous vapour in
the air, expressed in millimetres in the height of the mercury in the
same way as the pressure of the atmosphere, follows in the main
the temperature of the air. The mean value for the whole period
is only 08 millimetre (0'031 inch); December has the highest
monthly mean with 2*5 millimetres (0'097 inch), August the
lowest with 01 millimetre (0'004 inch). The absolutely highest
observation occurred on December 5 with 4 "4 millimetres (0'173
inch), while the lowest of all is less than 0'05 milHmetre, and
can therefore only be expressed by O'O; it occurred frequently in
the course of the winter.
METEOROLOGY 381
Precipitation.
Any attempt to measure the quantity of precipitation — even
approximately — had to be abandoned. Snowfall never occurred in
still weather, and in a wind there was always a drift that entirely
filled the gauge. On June 1 and 7 actual snowfall was observed,
but it was so insignificant that it could not be measured ; it was,
however, composed of genuine flakes of snow. It sometimes
happened that precipitation of very small particles of ice was
noticed; these grains of ice can be seen against the observation
lantern, and heard on the observer's headgear; but on returning to
the house, nothing can be discovered on the clothing. Where the
sign for snow occurs in the column for Remarks, it means drift;
these days are included among days of precipitation. Sleet was
observed only once, in December. Rain never.
Cloudiness.
The figures indicate how many tenths of the visible heavens are
covered by clouds (or mist). No instrument is used in these
observations; they depend on personal estimate. They had to be
abandoned during the period of darkness, when it is diflScult to see
the sky.
Wind.
For measuring the velocity of the wind the expedition had a cup
and cross anemometer, which worked excellently the whole time.
It consists of a horizontal cross with a hollow hemisphere on each
of the four arms of the cross; the openings of the hemispheres are
all turned towards the same side of the cross-arms, and the cross
can revolve with a minimum of friction on a vertical axis at the
point of junction. The axis is connected with a recording mechan-
ism, which is set in motion at each observation and stopped after a
lapse of half a minute, when the figure is read ofiF. This figure
denotes the velocity of the wind in metres per second, and is
382 APPENDIX II
directly transferred to the tables (here converted into feet per
second).
The monthly means vary between 1"9 metres (6 "2 feet) in May,
and 5' 5 metres (18 feet) in October; the mean for the whole ten
months is 3'4 metres (11 '1 feet) per second. These velocities may
be characterized as surprisingly small; and the number of stormy
days agrees with this low velocity. Their number for the whole
period is only 11, fairly evenly divided between the months; there
are, however, five stormy days in succession in the spring months
October and November.
The frequency of the various directions of the wind has been
added up for each month, and gives the same characteristic
distribution throughout the whole period. As a mean we have the
following table, where the figures give the percentage of the total
number of wind observations:
N.
N.E.
E.
S.E.
s. s.w.
W.
N.W.
Calm
19
7-8
31-9
6-9
123 14-3
2 6
1-1
213
Almost every third direction is E., next to which come S.W.
and S. Real S.E., on the other hand, occurs comparatively rarely.
Of N., N.W., and W. there is hardly anything. It may be interest-
ing to see what the distribution is when only high winds are taken
into account — that is, winds with a velocity of 10 metres (32 8 feet)
per second or more. We then have the following table of per-
centages:
N. N.E. E. S.E. S. S.W. W. N.W.
7 12 51 10 4 10 2 4
Here again, E. is predominant, as half the high winds come
from this quarter. W. and N.W. together have only 6 per
cent.
The total number of high winds is 51, or 5*6 per cent, of the
total of wind observations.
The most frequent directions of storms are also E. and N.E.
METEOROLOGY 383
The Aurora Australis.
During the winter months auroral displays were frequently
seen — altogether on sixty-five days in six months, or an average of
every third day — but for want of apparatus no exhaustive observa-
tions could be attempted. The records are confined to brief notes
of the position of the aurora at the times of the three daily
observations.
The frequency of the different directions, reckoned in percentages
of the total number of directions given, as for the wind, will be
found in the following table:
N.
N.E.
E.
S.E.
S.
S.W.
W.
N.W.
Zenith
18
17
16
9
8
3
8
13
8
N. and N.E. are the most frequent, and together make up one-
third of all the directions recorded; but the nearest points on
either side of this maximum — E. and N.W. — are also very frequent,
so that these four points togethei^-N.W., N., N.E., E.— have
64 per cent, of the whole. The rarest direction is S.W., with only
3 per cent. (From the position of the Magnetic Pole in relation
to Framheim, one would rather have expected E. to be the most
frequent, and W. the rarest, direction.) Probably the material
before us is somewhat scanty for establishing these directions.
METEOROLOGICAL RECORD FROM FRAMHEIM.
APRIL. 1911— JANUARY. 1912.
Height above sea-level, 36 feet.
Gravity correction, 072 inch at 29"89 inches.
Latitude, 78° 38' S.
Longitude, 1G3° 37' W.
Explanation of Signs in the Tables.
^ signifies snow,
mist,
aurora.
large ring round the sun.
_ mooQ.
sq.
a.
P-
L, n.
"{e.g.
2 (e.g.
storm.
squalls.
a.m.
p.m.
III., signify respectively 8 a.m., 2 p.m., and 8 p.m.
^°) signifies slight.
:^<2) „ heavy.
Times of day are always in local time.
The date was not changed on crossing the 180th meridian.
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CI IM (N (M !>] C-) M (M C^) CJ e^ IM IM (M C^J CI C^l C^i M (M C) C^l O] C<1 OJ CI W 'N 01 (M C')
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Oi O) 1 1 CI f^ IM IM C^ O) (M (M O) OJ IM IM 01 IM <M IM IM (M Ol OI IM CI 01 O) <M tM W C-l
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Relative
Humidity
(per Cent.).
0.
00
O00G0'-iWrtit^C0G000C0t-n0(MMC0Tt<-^tvi<000b-t-^O00»c2f0C0
05cocoo50sC5a>aiXw-*ioiooi>.t^t-.t^t^ooooooooo>oi0505S®^
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00
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Absolute
Humidity
(Inch).
^
TfO'^'^OOCOi-i^'^OOOO-^^CO'^-^iMd-'ti-^XCOCOOl'it'Oi-i
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Temperature
of the Air
(Fahrenheit).
d
CO
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CO
CO
1
d
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TjiiO'OM<C»5'M-HCOTtiT^iOiO»CTt<COlOiO»OTti(N'-iOO(N<NC^ i-i-hi-i
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 II 1 1 II II II 1 M 1 1 1 1 1 1 + + +
Ttl
CO
1
00
^•^^'^'^^'^'^t^^OOTjiC^JOMO^COOCOOWTtiCOCO'-iOOOOrO
r)<OCOTtiTj(iMoqi^),^.,^53i^i^iQ.,^.^50iCC<*i<N^CO'*C^C<5'-i iH
1 M 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 + + +
00
lO
CO
1
Barometer,
Normal Gravity
(Inches).
2 p.m. 8 p.m.
fflcooxcwoteoxooKM— i05050JOOcoioioob-Tj<ioo>o^Ci^
O'HC^icnt^.rH^CSIOOOlQOCOOON.CSOb-'-HCOTti-^O'CcOt^iOIN'OO
S?S5S29'^'^*<^'^2^'^^'^'^oco6o6o6c»cicno5d>o6obo6c6ci6xei6
(M Ol iM C>4 C-\ Ol ej Ol -M 01 fM (M 'M r>) cs) Ci !M 'M 01 !M Ol rM OQ (M (N IM iM M ^ N
05
00
00
iM
jooj;— icDi-ix-tiOi--icot^oot^05(NOXXcocoxiooooeo-^xx
0'7*C'l'-;*t^OCOCOOX03«500XO:l>.«00<N-^-*'-icocot>.iO'>*<iO'^
Oi050 0io6c)ia><io6o6obooobo6o6o6o6oo»<idso6o6xixxxob
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00
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00
■^'0^-•xxo■-l•-^o^Ttl^offl02coo5lOX(^^oo3•-llOOc<^-^^50Tt<;DO
OO'-i-Ht-,CTiC0'*O0005«C>O>0t^05t^U501'-i-^i*iCv5XOt^Oi0TfC«5
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00
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OiO>05CRXX050503XXXXXXXXXX05050501XXXXXXX
|^^o^(^)(^^(^^c>^l^^(N(^^l^^l^^(^l<^l(^^(N(Nl^^l^^(N(^^'^^l^^o^(N(NM^^^^c^(N
i-i<NCOTtHOCOt^X05 0^C^CC-*iO«Ot^00010^(NMT}<iCCDt^X03 0
r-,i-,rtrti-,rt,-.rHrt,-(IN<N(N(N(N(NIN(N<N<NCO
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to
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, ^ , III III III
lo I t^ OCOiM ^t-OOrHOOOOCO OOO^OOCOOOOCO-^OOOO
T— t rH t— I 1— I f-H 1-^ 1— ( i-H 1-H rH rH T— I T-~i r~i r^
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I I 00^(M(N(M01^— lOOXOOOOOOiOOOOO-^OOOOiN
ri_r^ !^::! !~Lr"! >-h ■—< rH t-h !rLr"L!!!ljr!^ rH th rH
OOJOob'OOCO'OOOiO tb~60 fOt^->*<Tj<t»OCOTti OO^ t^ O rH o o«5 w o
rHC-) 06d5Tt<OOTi<i:^Ol0rHrHOTt<rHT}<«0Ob^-^O-^fflOOOOON-O
MC^i— I I-H (Mi— l(>|i-(rHrHPJ rHrHCO'— I"— IC^"— 1^ rHM
oooc>p^-rHoc^o^oo'0(^p'-7lrHT}^rH^-c^^-co^coe»c»cooc^1^-Oloo
o6t©d^cocooo6oiooowMco®'^iiTt(eod5eooeicooO'«j't^cnoo
iMCOW'-t.-H (M (M i-i rH 1-H i-H W (M CO eOC^"«liC^O< iHl-HIO
rHtOrHrHTfllMOOlOtOOOOCOM-^lOOOrHTillOOO'OtOCO-^lCOt^'-^THC;"
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eO^CO'-ii-i <M^ --I <-< (M --HIO WOl^'-i'-H COC0U3CO
WH .^ W H . . . . . .
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Oi 05 05 03 00 00 00 00000000 OOI>l:^t^N.t^ CO COt^Ot^l>t^t^l>l> 0000 oot-
•*C0t^O'*O00C<:iM>-H05CDiO'<J<C^1iOf0iOCO<NC^1-*iOC0C0O'-<C0>OlMrtH
a50505C3Xooi>ooooooi>oooi>i^t^t>.t»coi^t^t^i>i>i>i>i^ooi>oo«o
l^'«^OOC'IC5(MO(MlM'*00<MOOCOI>lCCOi»OOi»0'OTtlOOC<l«>OCO«5(M
05050305l>OOOOOOOOOOt^OOOOI>l^t^t^l>t^OI>t^t^t^l>l>COl>l>OOI>
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COlOlOCO^HOrHOrHOOOrHi-Hi— Ii-HOC^IN'— I"— 1-^1— IC0OlrHlO'OCO»O<>1
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lOlOt^CO^HOOrHrHrHOrHrHi— li— (i-Hi— IT^MMCOCO'— l■^COrHI-Hti.(^3lOl^5
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COC0O05iO0000Q0iMC0-*-^iMC0C00500>-nOC0rHi005i0'OiMiMrH05C0rH
O'^txrOOOOOO'-l'-lOO'-l'-lOrHOCOCO'-ICOCOrHCOCO'Hr-llOrHCOCO
poooooooooooooooooooooppppocpooo
(MTt<C0iOt^-<tt^e<SC0C0<MC^)00iOOOl^-^COt>0000O-<*iC0'-i-<tiTt<TtiC0O
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(NCO<M^lMCOT}H(>ai-l.-li-IC-)(M T-ii-t C^ rtrHrHrH
+++ I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I I + I + I I ++++ I
■^OOrt<OOupoOpcOCOp■<i^p^-pcOTt^^-OrH^,T^^^(XlTt^Tt^lOOOlMOO^»
lO^^O^CC»C^lOl6cD^^Tj^^^c6t^d3c6^0TtlTf^COTt^^HlOCOI-HC»^OIOCOOlO
rH i-H(M(MlMi-(i-(COC^l'-lrH.-ll-He^ tH rHrH
+ + + I I I I I I I I M I I I I + I I ++ I ++ I I + + + +_
5DCOC)OOiOTt<rt<Xrt<CO»OCOrHlOCOOOiMO-*<NiM-^C^iMTti(Mi-H'-(OiMt>-
ooc3'-lr^c>o^^(^1'Coo6^^cocolOC'^ubc<|rH(©(^^rHrHco>-^0'-^o
rH ^3(^^eo(^^rHco(^3c<^rH(^^1-HC^^ rn i-h (NcirHi-ni-i
+ I+I + I I I I I I I I I I I I l+l I+I++I l + l+l
COrHCO"!ti>OCOO'-HOOOOt^a305a!»^0005iMCDrt<03i-HCOOOi-irHC^OCO>-iiM
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(»o6o6o6o6o6Q6o6o6o6o6o6ai«io6o6o6o6o6obo6o6o6ooo6o6o6o6oo«>di
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COiOC»5-*'>H(M>C<OCOTt(lOCOi-ilBi-lT}<TfHOC<5'*i(MTt<(MiO-^0005'-iTf<00
obo6obo6o6o6o6o6o6o6o6o6'i»c^o6Q6<io6ooo6o6o6o6o6o6ooo6o6csii
Q] (M iM <M W g^ IM <M <^^ (M Ol IM IM W e^ (M iM CI iM Ol (M (M C^ IM <>) Oi (M iM OJ C'l g^)
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rH T— I,—!,— l»—l,— (,—(,— 1,-H
Direction and Velocity of the Wind
(Feet per Second)
d
00
■^C^t^OC^OlM»OOtNt^005«D010»-*COOO»0^"5000«eO'-i(MO
1-H
OC0t^0iOOt^«3OI>C0O'Me<SOOf0OO-^«lt^OOOOOC:-^O
,-1 r-l l-H (>J IMIN I-I (N^C^IOi-l r-l ,-1 iM^rH
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00
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^ . . ^^ .W .W .H , ^ . . ."^ • .W
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Relative
Humidity
(per Cent.).
00
MrtitiiMiooO'H(Naiooiooi-iooo-Hoocoe>iroicoo-^o-He^io
t,cOt^t^t>-00t^t--t^COt>t^t>-t-t^«5«500a5t^t^t^00l^t^00X0000t^
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t^l^cDt>»t^t>tO«OOt>.t^l>COU90«Ot^COCDt^l^I^GO;OXt^t^t^t^
s
Absolute
Humidity
(Inch).
d.
00
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oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
CO
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C^TtiiMCOrOCOl^iMCOCOCOiOCOCOiOrO-^cDt^-^CO-^i^Xt-OClt-Xt^.
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Temperature
of the Air
(Fahrenheit).
d
00
05COOX'-iOCOCSXTtirtt>.C<5'-nOOT}ir-iXC^)iOO«5iOt-(rOiO<CON.
+
TjHOt^iOCOM^C^iOOiNiNWi-iC^'OOiOtO'Hi-iOt^'CTtiOOXOJCO
1-1 rH ,-1 1-1 1-1 1-1 (N <N 1-1 1-1
1 1 1 1 1 l + l 1 I+ + +++++ + + +I I+ +++++ + +
d
OOi-iTj<CS-^XM-'«<t^(N-<!ti<NiOOOXTjlt^OCOCOiOXO^Ot-COrOiO
00
+
t^O^Oi-KMOiCCNi-iOCOOCOtOXtDOCOIvXOtOiOXC-. i-HNt^XO
tH t-I 1— Ii— li-H 1— li— li— IC^JCfli— II— IC^l
1 + 1 + 1 l+l +++++++++++++++++++ + + +
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^•:}>XX04 0JXTjiTti0010Q(N-*OCOO>Oi'0'-it^05(NO^TfO'-— 1?)
CO
CO
+
C0O'*i0C0i-n0O05'^TjHiNC0'-iiC<i<t>'t*»0C0X(Nt^t^0iO»^Oi0O
lH*— 1 1— iT-t 1—1 1— (T— I^^^H,— IrHi— 1
1 1 1 1+ 1+ 1 1 II !+ + + + + + + + 1 I+ + + + + + + +
Barometer,
Normal Gravity
(Inches).
S
d
00
>oofOi-i^b-a5iO'Mxcooc^05-<*i'*i-^t^Ttiico2-^XTtiMCixr^xo5
(^^o•-n-■:l>ocol^l-^-H(^^col0^o■*'Oco(^lcoTt^lOc£>xc;o5co^^oxt^^-
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O^CiOiCiOOCiO^O^O^OiC50iC50i050>050lOiCi005CiOOiO^C;050
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OlC^JOO'O-^OOliOe^lcOCOOCO'OtOCJTfit^COCON.i-iCOiHC^OC^XOO
c^•-lOTt^lo■'tlc^^(^^•-l(^^!^5■'tl^clOlOl^o(Nl^5TfTJ^coxo50^-•'*lClXX^-.
05
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00
i-iiOOOCOI^WXt^CKNOMTtiXOCTlXCOi-iiO^iO^OO'CCIOOiO
1-|(NOc«;Tt<>0(^^M-HC^)torl^^OT)ll0^^lN(^^■<tTt^d-xox-f•o>:xt^
6
OJ
Oi050*CiO^OC50iO^O^OOiOOi0050iOiOCiO^OO^OOOC^CiC10
CI C^ M (N IM O) Ol OJ Ol Ol M M (M (O (N C-) IM (N (N <N (M IM (N rO M O) C) C) (M CI
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APPENDIX III
GEOLOGY
Provisional Remarks on the Examination of the Geological
Specimens brought by Roald Amundsen's South Polar
Expedition FROM THE Antarctic Continent (South Victoria
Land and King Edward VII. Land). By J. Schetelig,
Secretary oftheMineralogical Institute of Christiania
University,
The collection of specimens of rocks brought back by Mr. Roald
Amundsen from his South Polar expedition has been sent by him
to the Mineralogical Institute of the University, the Director of
which, Professor W. C. Brogger, has been good enough to entrust
to me the work of examining this rare and valuable material,
which gives us information of the structure of hitherto untrodden
regions.
Roald Amundsen himself brought back altogether about twenty
specimens of various kinds of rock from Mount Betty, which lies
in lat. 85° 8' S. Lieutenant Prestrud's expedition to King
Edward VII. Land collected in all about thirty specimens from
Scotfs Nunatak, which was the only mountain bare of snow that
this expedition met with on its route. A number of the stones
from Scott's Nunatak were brought away because they were thickly
overgrown with lichens. These specimens of lichens have been
sent to the Botanical Museum of the University.
A first cursory examination of the material was enough to show
395
39G APPEXDIX III
that the specimens from Mount Betty and Scott's Nunatak consist
exclusively of granitic rocks and crystalline schists. There were
no specimens of sedimentary rocks which, by possibly containing
fossils, might have contributed to the determination of the age of
these mountains. Another thing that was immediately apparent
was the striking agreement that exists between the rocks from
these two places, lying so far apart. The distance from Mount Betty
to Scott's Nunatak is between seven and eight degrees of latitude.
I have examined the specimens microscopically.
From Mount Betty there are several specimens of white granite,
with dark and light mica; it has a great resemblance to the white
granites from Sogn, the Dovre district, and Nordland, in Norway.
There is one very beautiful specimen of shining white, fine-grained
granite aplite, with small, pale red garnets. These granites show
in their exterior no sign of pressure structure. The remaining
rocks from Mount Betty are gneissic granite, partly very rich in
dark mica, and gneiss (granitic schist); besides mica schist, with
veins of quartz.
From Scott's Nunatak there are also several specimens of white
granite, very like those from Mount Betty. The remaining rocks
from here are richer in lime and iron, and show a series of gradual
transitions from micacious granite, through grano-diorite to quartz
diorite, with considerable quantities of dark mica and green horn-
blende. In one of the specimens the quantity of free quartz is so
small that the rock is almost a quartz-free diorite. The quartz
diorites are: some medium-grained, some coarse-grained (quartz-
diorite-pegmatite), with streaks of black mica. The schistose rocks
from Scott's Nunatak are streaked, and, in part, very fine-grained
quartz diorite schists. Mica schists do not occur among the speci-
mens from this mountain.
Our knowledge of the geology of South Victoria Land is mainly
due to Scott's expedition of 1901-1904, with H. T. Fferrar as
geologist, and Shacklcton's expedition of 1907-08, with Professor
David and R. Priestley as geologists. According to the investiga-
GEOLOGY 397
tions of these expeditions, South Victoria Land consists of a vast,
ancient complex of crystalline schists and granitic rocks, large
extents of which are covered by a sandstone formation ("Beacon
Sandstone," Ferrar), on the whole horizontally bedded, which is at
least 1,500 feet thick, and in which Shackleton found seams of
coal and fossil wood (a coniferous tree) . This, as It belongs to the
Upper Devonian or Lower Carboniferous, determines a lower limit
for the age of the sandstone formation. Shackleton also found in
lat. 85° 15' S. beds of limestone, which he regards as under-
lying and being older than the sandstone. In the limestone, which
is also on the whole horizontally bedded, only radiolaria have
been found. The limestone is probably of older Palaeozoic age
(? Silurian). It is, therefore, tolerably certain that the underlying
older formation of gneisses, crystalline schists and granites, etc., is
of Archaean age, and belongs to the foundation rocks.
Volcanic rocks are only found along the coast of Ross Sea and
on a range of islands parallel to the coast. Shackleton did not
find volcanic rocks on his ascent from the Barrier on his route
towards the South Pole.
G. T. Prior, who has described the rocks collected by Scott's
expedition, gives the following as belonging to the complex of
foundation rocks: gneisses, granites, diorites, banatites, and other
eruptive rocks, as well as crystalline limestone, with chondrodite.
Professor David and R. Priestley, the geologists of Shackleton's
expedition, refer to Ferrar's and Prior's description of the founda-
tion rocks, and state that according to their own investigations the
foundation rocks consist of banded gneiss, gnelssic granite, grano-
diorite, and diorlte rich in sphene, besides coarse crystalline lime-
stone as enclosures in the gneiss.
This list of the most important rocks belonging to the foundation
series of the parts of South Victoria Land already explored agrees
so closely with the rocks from Mount Betty and Scott's Nunatak,
that there can be no doubt that the latter also belong to the
foundation rocks.
398 APPENDIX III
From the exhaustive investigations carried out by Scott's and
Shackleton's expeditions it appears that South Victoria Land is
a plateau land, consisting of a foundation platform, of great thick-
ness and prominence, above which lie remains, of greater or less
extent, of Palaeozoic formations, horizontally bedded. From the
specimens of rock brought home by Roald Amundsen's expedition
it is established that the plateau of foundation rocks is continued
eastward to Amundsen's route to the South Pole, and that King
Edward VII. Land is probably a northern continuation, on the
eastern side of Ross Sea, of the foundation rock plateau of South
Victoria Land.
Christiania,
September 26, 1912.
APPENDIX IV
THE ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS AT THE POLE
Note by Professor H. Geelmuyden
Christiania,
September 16, 1912.
When requested this summer to receive the astronomical observa-
tions from Roald Amundsen's South Pole Expedition, for the
purpose of working them out, I at once put myself in communica-
tion with Mr. A. Alexander (a mathematical master) to get him
to undertake this work, while indicating the manner in which the
materials could be best dealt with. As Mr. Alexander had in a very
eflScient manner participated in the working out of the observations
from Nansen's Fram Expedition, and since then had calculated the
astronomical observations from Amundsen's Gj'oa Expedition, and
from Captain Isachsen's expeditions to Spitzbergen, I knew by
experience that he was not only a reliable and painstaking calcu-
lator, but that he also has so full an insight into the theoretical
basis, that he is capable of working without being bound down by
instructions.
{Signed) H. Geelmuyden,
Professor of Astronomy,
The Observatory of the University,
Christiania.
399
400 APPENDIX IV
MR. ALEXANDER'S REPORT.
Captain Roald Amundsen,
At your request I shall here give briefly the result of my
examination of the observations from your South Pole Expedition.
My calculations are based on the longitude for Framheim given to
me by Lieutenant Prestrud, 163° 37' W. of Greenwich. He
describes this longitude as provisional, but only to such an extent
that the final result cannot differ appreciably from it. My own
results may also be somewhat modified on a final treatment of tlie
material. But these modifications, again, will only be immaterial,
and, in any case, will not affect the result of the investigations
given below as to the position of the two Polar stations.
At the first Polar station, on December 15, 1911, eighteen
altitudes of the sun were taken in all with each of the expedition's
sextants. The latitude calculated from these altitudes is, on an
average of both sextants, very near 89° 54', with a mean error
of ±2'. The longitude calculated from the altitudes is about
7*^ (105°) E.; but, as might be expected in this high latitude, the
aberrations are very considerable. We may, however, assume with
great certainty that this station lies between lat, 89° 52' and
89° 56' S., and between long. 90° and 120° E.
The variation of the compass at the first Polar station was
determined by a series of bearings of the sun. This gives us the
absolute direction of the last day's line of route. The length
of this line was measured as five and a half geographical miles.
With the help of this we are able to construct for Polheim a field
of the same form and extent as that within which the first Polar
station must lie.
At Polheim, during a period of twenty-four hours (December
16-17), observations were taken every hour with one of the sextants.
The observations show an upper culmination altitude of 23 19*2',
and a resulting lower culmination altitude of 23° 17'4'. These
ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS 401
altitudes are one or two minutes of arc too low. This is not more
than may be accounted for by uncertainty in the determination of
the error of the instrument; but that atmospheric anomalies were
also present is shown by the series of observations as a whole. In
402 APPENDIX IV
combining the above two altitudes, an equal error on the same side
in each will have no influence on the result. The combination
gives a latitude of 89° 58"6'. That this result must be nearly
correct is confirmed by the considerable displacement of the periods
of culmination which is indicated by the series of observations, and
which in the immediate neighbourhood of the Pole is caused by the
change in the sun's declination. On the day of the observations
this displacement amounted to thirty minutes in 89° 57', forty-six
minutes in 89° 58', and over an hour and a half in 89° 59'. The
upper culmination occurred so much too late, and the lower
culmination so much too early. The interval between these two
periods was thus diminished by double the amount of the displace-
ments given. Now the series of observations shows that the interval
between the upper and the lower culmination amounted at the
most to eleven hours; the displacement of the periods of culmina-
tion was thus at least half an hour. It results that Polheim must
lie south of 89° 57', while at the same time we may assume that it
cannot He south of 89° 59'. The moments of culmination could,
of course, only be determined very approximately, and in the same
way the observations as a whole are unserviceable for the determina-
tion of longitude. It may, however, be stated with some certainty
that the longitude must be between 30° and 75° E. The latitude,
as already mentioned, is between 89° 57' and 89° 59', and the
probable position of Polheim may be given roughly as lat. 89°
58-5' S., and long. 60° E.
On the accompanying sketch-chart the letters abed indicate the
field within which the first Polar station must lie; ABCD is the
field which is thereby assigned to Polheim; EFGH the field within
which Polheim must lie according to the observations taken on the
spot itself; P the probable position of Polheim, and L the resulting
position of the first Polar station. The position thus assigned to
the latter agrees as well as could be expected with the average
result of the observations of December 15. According to this,
Polheim would be assumed to lie one and a half geographical
ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS 403
miles, or barely three kilometres, from the South Pole, and certainly
not so much as six kilometres from it.
From your verbal statement I learn that Helmer Hanssen and
Bjaaland walked four geographical miles from Polheim in the
direction taken to be south on the basis of the observations. On
the chart the letters ejgh give the field within which the termina-
tion of their line of route must lie. It will be seen from this that
they passed the South Pole at a distance which, on the one hand,
can hardly have been so great as two and a half kilometres, and on
the other, hardly so great as two kilometres; that, if the assumed
position of Polheim be correct, they passed the actual Pole at a
distance of between 400 and 600 metres; and that it is very
probable that they passed the actual Pole at a distance of a few
hundred metres, perhaps even less.
I am, etc.,
(Signed) Anton Alexander.
Christiania,
September 22, 1912.
APPENDIX V
OCEANOGRAPHY
Remarks on the Oceanographical Investigations carried out
BY THE "FrAM" in THE NoRTH ATLANTIC IN 1910 AND IN
the South Atlantic in 191 1 . By Professor Bjorn Helland-
Hansen and Professor Fridtjof Nansen
In the earliest age of the human race the sea formed an absolute
barrier. Men looked out upon its immense surface, now calm and
bright, now lashed by storms, and always mysteriously attractive;
but they could not grapple with it. Then they learned to make
boats; at first small, simple craft, which could only be used when
the sea was calm. But by degrees the boats were made larger and
more perfect, so that they could venture farther out and weather a
storm if it came. In antiquity the peoples of Europe accomplished
the navigation of the Mediterranean, and the boldest maritime
nation was able to sail round Africa and find the way to India by
sea. Then came voyages to the northern waters of Europe, and
far back in the Middle Ages enterprising seamen crossed from
Norway to Iceland and Greenland and the north-eastern part of
North America. They sailed straight across the North Atlantic,
and were thus the true discoverers of that ocean.
Even in antiquity the Greek geographers had assumed that the
greater part of the globe was covered by sea, but it was not till
the beginning of the modern age that any at all accurate idea
arose of the extent of the earth's great masses of water. The
404
OCEANOGRAPHY 405
knowledge of the ocean advanced with more rapid steps than ever
before. At first this knowledge only extended to the surface,
the comparative area of oceans, their principal currents, and the
general distribution of temperature. In the middle of the last
century Maury collected all that was known, and drew charts of
the currents and winds for the assistance of navigation. This was
the beginning of the scientific study of the oceanic waters; at
that time the conditions below the surface were still little known.
A few investigations, some of them valuable, had been made of
the sea fauna, even at great depths, but very little had been done
towards investigating the physical conditions. It was seen, how-
ever, that there was here a great field for research, and that there
were great and important problems to be solved; and then, half a
century ago, the great scientific expeditions began, which have
brought an entire new world to our knowledge.
It is only forty years since the Challenger sailed on the first
great exploration of the oceans. Although during these forty
years a quantity of oceanographical observations has been col-
lected with a constant improvement of methods, it is, nevertheless,
clear that our knowledge of the ocean is still only in the pre-
liminary stage. The ocean has an area twice as great as that
of the dry land, and it occupies a space thirteen times as great as
that occupied by the land above sea-level. Apart from the great
number of soundings for depth alone, the number of oceanographical
stations — with a series of physical and biological observations at
various depths — is very small in proportion to the vast masses
of water; and there are still extensive regions of the ocean of the
conditions of which we have only a suspicion, but no certain
knowledge. This applies also to the Atlantic Ocean, and especi-
ally to the South Atlantic.
Scientific exploration of the ocean has several objects. It seeks
to explain the conditions governing a great and important part of
our earth, and to discover the laws that control the immense masses
of water in the ocean. It aims at acquiring a knowledge of its
406 APPENDIX V
varied fauna and flora, and of the relations between this infinity
of organisms and the medium in which they live. These were the
principal problems for the solution of which the voyage of the
Challenger and other scientific expeditions were undertaken.
Maury's leading object was to explain the conditions that are of
practical importance to navigation; his investigations were, in the
first instance, applied to utilitarian needs.
But the physical investigation of the ocean has yet another very
important bearing. The difference between a sea climate and
a continental climate has long been understood; it has long been
known that the sea has an equalizing effect on the temperature of
the air, so that in countries lying near the sea there is not so great
a difiFerence between the heat of summer and the cold of winter as
on continents far from the sea-coast. It has also long been under-
stood that the warm currents produce a comparatively mild climate
in high latitudes, and that the cold currents coming from the
Polar regions produce a low temperature. It has been known
for centuries that the northern arm of the Gulf Stream makes
Northern Europe as habitable as it is, and that the Polar currents
on the shores of Greenland and Labrador prevent any richer
development of civilization in these regions. But it is only
recently that modern investigation of the ocean has begun to show
the intimate interaction between sea and air; an interaction which
makes it probable that we shall be able to forecast the main
variations in climate from year to year, as soon as we have a
sufiiciently large material in the shape of soundings.
In order to provide new oceanographical material by modern
methods, the plan of the Fram expedition included the making
of a number of investigations in the Atlantic Ocean. In June,
1910, the Fram went on a trial cruise in the North Atlantic to
the west of the British Isles. Altogether twenty-five stations were
taken in this region during June and July before the Fram's final
departure from Norway.
The exi)cdition then went direct to the Antarctic and landed
OCEANOGRAPHY 407
the shore party on the Barrier. Neither on this trip nor on the
Fram's subsequent voyage to Buenos Aires were any investigations
worth mentioning made, as time was too short; but in June, 1911,
Captain Nilsen took the Fram on a cruise in the South Atlantic,
and made in all sixty valuable stations along two lines between
South America and Africa.
An exhaustive working out of the very considerable material
collected on these voyages has not yet been possible. We shall
here only attempt to set forth the most conspicuous results shown
by a preliminary examination.
BeaiJes the meteorological observations and the collection of
plankton — in fine silk tow-nets — the investigations consisted of
taking temperatures and samples of water at different depths.
The temperatures below the surface were ascertained by the best
modern reversing thermometers (Richter's); these thermometers
are capable of giving the temperature to within a few hundredths
of a degree at any depth. Samples of water were taken for the
most part with Ekman's reversing water-sampler; it consists of a
brass tube, with a valve at each end. When it is lowered the
valves are open, so that the water passes freely through the tube.
When the apparatus has reached the depth from which a sample
is to be taken, a small slipping sinker is sent down along the line.
When the sinker strikes the sampler, it displaces a small pin,
which holds the brass tube in the position in which the valves
remain open. The tube then swings over, and this closes the
valves, so that the tube is filled with a hermetically enclosed sample
of water. These water samples were put into small bottles, which
were afterwards sent to Bergen, where the salinity of each sample
was determined. On the first cruise, in June and July, 1910, the
observations on board were carried out by Mr. Adolf Schroer,
besides the permanent members of the expedition. The observa-
tions in the South Atlantic in the following year were for the most
part carried out by Lieutenant Gjertsen and Kutschin.
The Atlantic Ocean is traversed by a series of main currents.
408 APPENDIX V
which are of great importance on account of their powerful
influence on the physical conditions of the surrounding regions of
sea and atmosphere. By its oceanographical investigations in 1910
and 1911 the Fram expedition has made important contributions
to our knowledge of many of these currents. We shall first speak
of the investigations in the North Atlantic in 1910, and afterwards
of those in the South Atlantic in 1911.
Investigations in the North Atlantic in June and
July, 1910.
The waters of the Northern Atlantic Ocean, to the north of
lats. 30° and 40° N., are to a great extent in drifting motion
north-eastward and eastward from the American to the European
side. This drift is what is popularly called the Gulf Stream. To
the west of the Bay of Biscay the eastward flow of water divides
into two branches, one going south-eastward and southward, which
is continued in the Canary Current, and the other going north-
eastward and northward outside the British Isles, which sends
comparatively warm streams of water both in the direction of
Iceland and past the Shetlands and Faroes into the Norwegian
Sea and north-eastward along the west coast of Norway. This
last arm of the Gulf Stream in the Norwegian Sea has been well
explored during the last ten or fifteen years; its course and extent
have been charted, and it has been shown to be subject to great
variations from year to year, which again appear to be closely
connected with variations in the development and habitat of
several important species of fish, such as cod, coal-fish, haddock,
etc., as well as with variations in the winter climate of Norway,
the crops, and other important conditions. By closely following
the changes in the Gulf Stream from year to year, it looks as if we
should be able to predict a long time in advance any great changes
in the cod and haddock fisheries in the North Sea, as well as varia-
tions in the winter climate of North-Western Europe.
OCEANOGRAPHY
409
But the cause or causes of these variations in the Gulf Stream are
at present unknown. In order to solve this diflScult question we must
be acquainted with the conditions in those regions of the Atlantic
itself through which this mighty ocean current flows, before it sends
its waters into the Norwegian Sea. But here we are met by the
difficulty that the investigations that have been made hitherto are
extremely inadequate and deficient; indeed, we have no accurate
'Fig. 1. — Hypothetical Representation of the Surface Currents in
THE Northern Atlantic in April.
After Nansen, in the Internationale Revue der gesamten Hydrohiologie und
Hydrographie, 1912.
knowledge even of the course and extent of the current in this
ocean. A thorough investigation of it with the improved methods
of our time is therefore an inevitable necessity.
As the Gulf Stream is of so great importance to Northern
Europe in general, but especially to us Norwegians, it was not a
mere accident that three separate expeditions left Norway in the
same year, 1910 — Murray and Hjort's expedition in the Michael
Sars, Amundsen's trial trip in the Fram, and Nansen's voyage in
VOL. II. 52
410 APPENDIX V
the gunboat Frithjof — all \\atli the object of investigating the
conditions in the North Atlantic. The fact that on these three
voyages observations were made approximately at the same time in
different parts of the ocean increases their value in a great degree,
since they can thus be directly compared; we are thus able to
obtain, for instance, a reliable survey of the distribution of
temperature and salinity, and to draw important conclusions as
to the extent of the currents and the motion of the masses of
water.
Amundsen's trial trip in the Fram and Nansen's voyage in the
Frithjof were made with the special object of studying the Gulf
Stream in the ocean to the west of the British Isles, and by the
help of these investigations it is now possible to chart the current
and the extent of the various volumes of water at diflPerent depths
in this region at that time.
A series of stations taken within the same region during INIurray
and Hjort's expedition completes the survey, and provides valuable
material for comparison.
After sailing from Norway over the North Sea, the Fram passed
through the English Channel in June, 1910, and the first station
was taken on June 20, to the south of Ireland, in lat. 50° 50' N.
and long. 10° 15' W., after which thirteen stations were taken to
the westward, to lat. 53° 16' N. and long. 17° 50' W., where the
ship was on June 27. Her course then went in a northerly direc-
tion to lat. 57° 59' N. and long. 15° 8' W., from which point a
section of eleven stations (Nos. 15-25) was made straight across the
Gulf Stream to the bank on the north of Scotland, in lat. 59° 33' N.
and long. 4° 44' W. The voyage and the stations are represented
in Fig. 2. Temperatures and samples of water were taken at all
the twenty -four stations at the following depths: surface, 5, 10,
20, 30, 40, 50, 75, 100, 150, 200, 300, 400, and 500 metres (27,
5-4, 109, 163, 21 8, 272, 408, 54 5, 817, 109, 163*5, 218, and
272"5 fathoms) — or less, where the depth was not so great.
The Fram's southerly section, from Stations 1 to 13 (see Fig. 3),
OCEANOGRAPHY
411
is divided into two parts at Station 10, on the Porcupine Bank,
south-west of Ireland. The eastern part, between Stations 1 and 10,
extends over to the bank south of Ireland, while the three stations
of the western part lie in the deep sea west of the Porcupine Bank.
Fig. 2.— The "Fram's" Route from June 20 to July 7, 1910 (given
in an unbroken line the figures denote the stations).
The dotted line gives the Frithjof's route, and the squares give five of the
Michael Sars's stations.
In both parts of this section there are, as shown in Fig. 3, two
great volumes of water, from the surface down to depths greater
than 500 metres, which have salinities between 35 "4 and 35 5 per
412
APPENDIX V
mille. They have also comparatively high temperatures; the
isotherm for 10° C. goes down to a depth of about 500 metres
in both these parts.
It is obvious that both these comparatively salt and warm
volumes of water belong to the Gulf Stream. The more westerly
of them, at Stations 11 and 12, and in part 13, in the deep sea to
the west of the Porcupine Bank, is probably in motion towards the
north-east along the outside of this bank and then into Rockall
Channel — between Rockall Bank and the bank to the west of the
Fig. 3. — Temperature and Salinity in the "Fram's" SotrrHERN
Section, June, 1910.
British Isles — where a corresponding volume of water, ^^•ith a
somewhat lower salinity, is found again in the section which was
taken a few weeks later by the Frith joj from Ireland to the west-
north-west across the Rockall Bank. This volume of water has
a special interest for us, since, as will be mentioned later, it forms
the main part of that arm of the GuK Stream which enters the
Norwegian Sea, but which is gradually cooled on its way and mixed
with fresher water, so that its salinity is constantly decreasing.
This fresher water is evidently derived in great measure directly
OCEANOGRAPHY 413
from precipitation, which is here in excess of the evaporation from
the surface of the sea.
The volume of Gulf Stream water that is seen in the eastern
part (east of Station 10) of the southern Fram section, can only-
flow north-eastward to a much less extent, as the Porcupine Bank
is connected with the bank to the west of Ireland by a submarine
ridge (with depths up to about 300 metres), which forms a great
obstacle to such a movement.
The two volumes of Gulf Stream water in the Fram's southern
section of 1910 are divided by a volume of water, which lies over
the Porcupine Bank, and has a lower salinity and also a somewhat
lower average temperature. On the bank to the south of Ireland
(Stations 1 and 2) the salinity and average temperature are also
comparatively low. The fact that the water on the banks off the
coast has lower salinities, and in part lower temperatures, than the
water outside in the deep sea, has usually been explained by its
being mixed with the coast water, which is diluted with river water
from the land. This explanation may be correct in a great
measure; but, of course, it will not apply to the water over banks
that lie out in the sea, far from any land. It appears, nevertheless,
on the Porcupine Bank, for instance, and, as we shall see later, on
the Rockall Bank, that the water on these ocean banks is — in any
case in early summer — colder and less salt than the surrounding
water of the sea. It appears from the Frithjof section across the
Rockall Bank, as well as from the two Fram sections, that this
must be due to precipitation combined with the vertical currents
near the surface, which are produced by the cooling of the surface
of the sea in the course of the winter. For, as the surface water
cools, it becomes heavier than the water immediately below, and
must then sink, while it is replaced by water from below. These
vertical currents extend deeper and deeper as the cooling proceeds
in the course of the winter, and bring about an almost equal
temperature and salinity in the upper waters of the sea during the
winter, as far down as this vertical circulation reaches. But as the
414 APPENDIX V
precipitation in these regions is constantly decreasing the salinity
of the surface water, this vertical circulation must bring about
a diminution of salinity in the underlying waters, with which the
sinking surface water is mixed into a homogeneous volume of water.
The Frithjof section in particular seems to show that the vertical
circulation in these regions reaches to a depth of 500 or 600 metres
at the close of the winter. If we consider, then, what must happen
over a bank in the ocean, where the depth is less than this, it
is obvious that the vertical circulation will here be prevented by the
bottom from reaching the depth it otherwise would, and there will
be a smaller volume of water to take part in this circulation and to
be mixed with the cooled and diluted surface water. But as the
cooling of the surface and the precipitation are the same there as in
the surrounding regions, the consequence must be that the whole
of this volume of water over the bank will be colder and less salt
than the surrounding waters. And as this bank water, on account
of its lower temperature, is heavier than the water of the surround-
ing sea, it will have a tendency to spread itself outwards along the
bottom, and to sink down along the slopes from the sides of the
bank. This obviously contributes to increase the opposition that
such banks ofifer to the advance of ocean currents, even when they
lie fairly deep.
These conditions, which in many respects are of great im-
portance, are clearly shown in the two Fram sections and the
Frithjof section.
The Northern Fram section went from a point to the north-west
of the Rockall Bank (Station 15), across the northern end of this
bank (Station 16), and across the northern part of the wide channel
(Rockall Channel) between it and Scotland. As might be expected,
both temperature and salinity are lower in this section than in the
southern one, since in the course of their slow northward movement
the waters are cooled, especially by the vertical circulation in
winter already mentioned, and are mixed with water containing less
salt, especially precipitated water. While in the southern section
OCEANOGRAPHY
415
the isotherm for 10° C. went down to 500 metres, it here lies at a
depth of between 50 and 25 metres. In the comparatively short
distance between the two sections, the whole volume of water has
been cooled between 1° and 2° C. This represents a great quantity
of warmth, and it is chiefly given off to the air, which is thus
warmed over a great area. Water contains more than 3,000 times
as much warmth as the same volume of air at the same tempera-
ture. For example, if 1 cubic metre of water is cooled 1°, and the
whole quantity of warmth thus taken from the water is given
22 23 -
Fig. 4. — Temperature and Salinity in the "Fram's" Northern
Section, Jult, 1910.
to the air, it is sufficient to warm more than 3,000 cubic metres of
air 1°, when subjected to the pressure of one atmosphere. In
other words, if the surface water of a region of the sea is cooled 1°
to a depth of 1 metre, the quantity of warmth thus taken from the
sea is sufficient to warm the air of the same region 1° up to
a height of much more than 3,000 metres, since at high altitudes
the air is subjected to less pressure, and consequently a cubic metre
there contains less air than at the sea-level. But it is not a depth
of 1 metre of the Gulf Stream that has been cooled 1° between
these two sections; it is a depth of about 500 metres or more, and
416 APPENDIX V
it has been cooled between 1° and 2° C. It will thus be easily
understood that this loss of warmth from the Gulf Stream must
have a profound influence on the temperature of the air over a wide
area; we see how it comes about that warm currents like this are
capable of rendering the climate of countries so much milder, as
is the case in Europe; and we see further how comparatively
slight variations in the temperature of the current from year
to year must bring about considerable variations in the climate;
and how we must be in a position to predict the«e latter
changes when the temperature of the currents becomes the object
of extensive and continuous investigation. It may be hoped
that this is enough to show that far-reaching problems are here
in question.
The salinity of the Gulf Stream water decreases considerably
between the Frams southern and northern sections. While in the
former it was in great part between 35 '4 and 35 '5 per mille, m
the latter it is throughout not much more than 35*3 per mille.
In this section, also, the waters of the Gulf Stream are divided by
an accumulation of less salt and somewhat colder bank water, which
here lies over the Rockall Bank (Station 16). On the west side
of this bank there is again (Station 15) salter and warmer Gulf
Stream water, though not quite so warm as on the east. From
the Frithjof section, a little farther south, it appears that this
western volume of Gulf Stream water is comparatively small.
The investigations of the Fram and the Frithjof show that the
part of the Gulf Stream which penetrates into the Norwegian
Sea comes in the main through the Rockall Channel, between
the Rockall Bank and the bank to the west of the British Isles;
its width in this region is thus considerably less than was
usually supposed. Evidently this is largely due to the influence of
the earth's rotation, whereby currents in the northern hemisphere
are deflected to the right, to a greater degree the farther north they
run. In this way the ocean currents, especially in northern
latitudes, are forced against banks and coasts lying to the right of
OCEANOGRAPHY 417
them, and frequently follow the edges, where the coast banks slope
down to the deep. The conclusion given above, that the Gulf
Stream comes through the Rockall Channel, is of importance to
future investigations; it shows that an annual investigation of the
water of this channel would certainly contribute in a valuable way
to the understanding of the variations of the climate of Western
Europe.
We shall not dwell at greater length here on the results of the
Frams oceanographical investigations in 1910. Only when the
observations then collected, as well as those of the Frithjofs and
Michael Sars's voyages, have been fully worked out shall we be
able to make a complete survey of what has been accomplished.
Investigations in the South Atlantic, June to
August, 1911.
In the South Atlantic we have the southward Brazil Current
on the American side, and the northward Benguela Current on the
African side. In the southern part of the ocean there is a wide
current flowing from west to east in the west wind belt. And
in its northern part, immediately south of the Equator, the South
Equatorial Current flows from east to west. We have thus in the
South Atlantic a vast circle of currents, with a motion contrary to
that of the hands of a clock. The Fram expedition has now
made two full sections across the central part of the South
Atlantic; these sections take in both the Brazil Current and the
Benguela Current, and they lie between the eastward current on
the south and the westward current on the north. This is the
first time that such complete sections have been obtained between
South America and Africa in this part of the ocean. And no
doubt a larger number of stations were taken on the Frames
voyage than have been taken — with the same amount of detail
— in the whole South Atlantic by all previous expeditions put
together.
418
APPENDIX V
When the Fram left Buenos Aires in June, 1911, the expedition
went eastward through the Brazil Current. The first station
was taken in lat. 36° 13' S. and long. 43° 15' W.; this was on
June 17, Her course was then north-east or east until Station 32
in lat. 20° 30' S. and long. 8° 10' E.; this station lay in the
Benguela Current, about 300 miles from the coast of Africa, and it
was taken on July 22. From there she went in a gentle curve
\ ■ M' 50' W 30' i!j)' 16' W — o'S;
tUtl
M'^^
s:
-W-TTi
^2*
i5.
ii«
13 'f>a tnkl
go- 56* 4j' jy iif t^'w »{r
Fig. 5. — The "Fram's" Stations in the Soitth Atlantic
(June- August, 1911).
past St. Helena and Trinidad back to America. The last station
(No. 60) was taken on August 19 in the Brazil Current in
lat. 24° 39' S. and about long. 40° W.; this station lay about
200 miles south-east of Rio de Janeiro.
There was an average distance of 100 nautical miles between
one station and the next. At nearly all the stations investigations
were made at the following depths: surface, 5, 10, 25, 50, 100, 150,
OCEANOGRAPHY
419
200, 250, 300, 400, 500, 750, and 1,000 metres (27, 5 '4, 13 6,
27-2, 54 5, 81 7, 109, 136-2, 163-5, 218, 272*5, and 545 fathoms).
At one or two of the stations observations were also taken at
1,500 and 2,000 metres (8175 and 1,090 fathoms).
The investigations were thus carried out from about the middle
of July to the middle of August, in that part of the southern
winter which corresponds to the period between the middle of
Fig. 6. — Currents in the South Atlantic
(June- August, 1911).-
December and the middle of February in the northern hemisphere.
We must first see what the conditions were on the surface in those
regions in the middle of the winter of 1911.
It must be remembered that the currents on the two sides of the
ocean flow in opposite directions. Along the coast of Africa we
have the Benguela Current, flowing from south to north; on the
American side the Brazil Current flows from the tropics south-
420
APPENDIX V
ward. The former current is therefore comparatively cold and the
latter comparatively warm. This is clearly seen on the chart,
which shows the distribution of temperatures and salinities on the
surface. In lat. 20° S. it was only about 17° C. off the African
coast, while it was about 23° C. off the coast of Brazil.
The salinity depends on the relation between evaporation and
the addition of fresh water. The Benguela Current comes from
< S5X. ^5-3«•^ 36 -37^. >Z7'^
Fig. 7. — Salinities and Temperatures at the Surface in the
South Atlantic (June-August, 1911).
regions where the salinity is comparatively low; this is due to
the acquisition of fresh water in the Antarctic Ocean, where the
evaporation from the surface is small and the precipitation com-
paratively large. A part of this fresh water is also acquired by
the sea in the form of icebergs from the Antarctic Continent.
These icebergs melt as they drift about the sea.
Immediately off the African coast there is a belt where the
OCEANOGRAPHY 421
salinity is under 35 per mille on the surface; farther out in the
Benguela Current the salinity is for the most part between 35 and
36 per mille. As the water is carried northward by the current,
evaporation becomes greater and greater; the air becomes com-
paratively warm and dry. Thereby the salinity is raised. The
Benguela Current is then continued westward in the South Equa-
torial Current; a part of this afterwards turns to the north-west,
and crosses the Equator into the North Atlantic, where it joins
the North Equatorial Current. This part must thus pass through
the belt of calms in the tropics. In this region falls of rain occur,
heavy enough to decrease the surface salinity again. But the
other part of the South Equatorial Current turns southward along
the coast of Brazil, and is then given the name of the Brazil
Current. The volume of water that passes this way receives at
first only small additions of precipitation; the air is so dry and
warm in this region that the salinity on the surface rises to over
37 per mille. This will be clearly seen on the chart; the sal test
water in the whole South Atlantic is found in the northern part of
the Brazil Current. Farther to the south in this current the
salinity decreases again, as the water is there mixed with fresher
water from the South. The River La Plata sends out enormous
quantities of fresh water into the ocean. Most of this goes north-
'^ard, on account of the earth's rotation; the effect of this is, of
course, to deflect the currents of the southern hemisphere to the
left, and those of the northern hemisphere to the right. Besides
the water from the River La Plata, there is a current flowing
northward along the coast of Patagonia — namely, the Falkland
Current. Like the Benguela Current, it brings water with lower
salinities than those of the waters farther north; therefore, in
.proportion as the salt water of the Brazil Current is mixed with
the water from the River La Plata and the Falkland Current, its
salinity decreases. These various conditions give the explanation
of the distribution of salinity and temperature that is seen in the
chart.
422 ' APPENDIX V
Between the two long lines of section there is a distance of
between ten and fifteen degrees of latitude. There is, therefore,
a considerable difference in temperature. In the southern section
the average surface temperature at Stations 1 to 26 (June 17 to
July 17) was 17'9° C; in the northern section at Stations 36 to 60
(July 26 to August 19) it was 21 '6° C. There was thus a differ-
ence of 3*7° C. If all the stations had been taken simultaneously,
the difference would have been somewhat greater; the northern
section was, of course, taken later in the winter, and the tempera-
tures were therefore proportionally lower than in the southern
section. The difference corresponds fairly accurately with that
which Kriimmel has calculated from previous observations.
We must now look at the conditions below the surface in that
part of the South Atlantic which was investigated by the Fram
Expedition.
The observations show in the first place that both temperatures
and salinities at every one of the stations give the same values
from the surface downward to somewhere between 75 and
150 metres (40'8 and 81 '7 fathoms). This equalization of tem-
perature and salinity is due to the vertical currents produced
by cooling in winter; we shall return to it later. But below these
depths the temperatures and salinities decrease rather rapidly for
some distance.
The conditions of temperature at 400 metres (218 fathoms)
below the surface are shown in the next little chart. This chart
is based on the Fram Expedition, and, as regards the other parts
of the ocean, on Schott's comparison of the results of previous
expeditions. It will be seen that the Frames observations
agree very well with previous soundings, but are much more
detailed.
The chart shows clearly that it is much warmer at 400 metres
(218 fathoms) in the central part of the South Atlantic than
either farther north — nearer the Equator — or farther south. On
the Equator there is a fairly large area where the temperature
OCEANOGRAPHY
423
is only 7° or 8° C. at 400 metres, whereas in lats. 20° to 30° S.
there are large regions where it is above 12° C; sometimes above
13° C, or even 14° C. South of lat. 30° S. the temperature
decreases again rapidly; in the chart no lines are drawn for tem-
peratures below 8° C, as we have not suflScient observations to
show the course of these lines properly. But we know that the
temperature at 400 metres sinks to about 0° C. in the Antarctic
Ocean.
Fig. 8. — Temperatures (Centigrade) at a Depth op 400 Metres
(218 Fathoms).
At these depths, then, we find the warmest water within the
region investigated by the Fram. If we now compare the dis-
tribution of temperature at 400 metres with the chart of currents
in the South Atlantic, we see that the warm region Ues in the
centre of the great circulation of which mention was made above.
We see that there are high temperatures on the left-hand side
of the currents, and low on the right-hand side. This, again.
424 APPENDIX V
is an effect of the earth's rotation, for the high temperatures mean
as a rule that the water is comparatively light, and the low that it
is comparatively heavy. Now, the effect of the earth's rotation in
the southern hemisphere is that the light (warm) water from above
is forced somewhat down on the left-hand side of the current, and
that the heavy (cold) water from below is raised somewhat. In
the northern hemisphere the contrary is the case. This explains
the cold water at a depth of 400 metres on the Equator; it also
explains the fact that the water immediately off the coasts of
Africa and South America is considerably colder than farther out
in the ocean. We now have data for studying the relation be-
tween the currents and the distribution of warmth in the volumes
of water in a way which affords valuable information as to the
movements themselves. The material collected by the Fram will
doubtless be of considerable importance in this way when it has
been finally worked out.
Below 400 metres (218 fathoms) the temperature further
decreases everywhere in the South Atlantic, at first rapidly to a
depth between 500 and 1,000 metres (272 '5 and 545 fathoms),
afterwards very slowly. It is possible, however, that at the
greatest depths it rises a little again, but this will only be a
question of hundredths, or, in any case, very few tenths of a
degree.
It is known from previous investigations in the South Atlantic,
that the waters at the greatest depths, several thousand metres
below the surface, have a temperature of between 0° and 3° C.
Along the whole Atlantic, from the extreme north (near Iceland)
to the extreme south, there runs a ridge about half-way between
Europe and Africa on the one side, and the two American conti-
nents on the other. A little to the north of the Equator there is
a slight elevation across the ocean floor between South America
and Africa. Farther south (between lats. 25° and 35° S.) another
irregular ridge runs across between these continents. We
therefore have four deep regions in the South Atlantic, two on the
OCEANOGRAPHY 425
west (the Brazilian Deep and the Argentine Deep) and two on the
east (the West African Deep and the South African Deep). Now
it has been found that the "bottom water" in these great deeps —
the bottom lies more than 5,000 metres (2,725 fathoms) below the
surface — is not always the same. In the two western deeps, off
South America, the temperature is only a little above 0° C. We
find about the same temperatures in the South African Deep, and
farther eastward in a belt that is continued round the whole earth.
To the south, between this belt and Antarctica, the temperature of
the great deeps is much lower, below 0° C. But in the West
African Deep the temperature is about 2° C. higher; we find there
the same temperatures of between 2° and 2'5° C. as are found
everywhere in the deepest parts of the North Atlantic. The
explanation of this must be that the bottom water in the western
part of the South Atlantic comes from the south, while in the
north-eastern part it comes from the north. This is con-
nected with the earth's rotation, which has a tendency to deflect
currents to the left in the southern hemisphere. The bottom
water coming from the south goes to the left — that is, to the
South American side; that which comes from the north also goes
to the left — that is, to the African side.
The salinity also decreases from the surface downward to
600 to 800 metres (about 300 to 400 fathoms), where it is only
a little over 34 per mille, but under 34 '5 per mille; lower down it
rises to about 34 '7 per mille in the bottom water that comes from
the south, and to about 34 '9 per mille in that which comes from
the North Atlantic.
We mentioned that the Benguela Current is colder and less salt
at the surface than the Brazil Current. The same thing is
found in those parts of the currents that lie below the surface.
This is clearly shown in Fig. 9, which gives the distribution of
temperature at Station 32 in the Benguela Current, and at
Station 60 in the Brazil Current; at the various depths down
to 500 metres (272'5 fathoms) it was between 5° and 7° C. colder
VOL. II. 53
426
APPENDIX V
in the former than in the latter. Deeper down the difference
becomes less, and at 1,000 metres (545 fathoms) there was only a
difference of one or two tenths of a degree.
Fig. 10 shows a corresponding difference in salinities; in
the first 200 metres below the surface the water was about
l/ *
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Fig. 9. — Temperatures at Station 32 (in the Benguela Current,
July 22, 1911), and at Station 60 (in the Brazil
Current, August 19, 1911).
1 per mille more saline in the Brazil Current than in the
Benguela Current. Both these currents are confined to the upper
waters; the former probably goes down to a depth of about
1,000 metres (545 fathoms), while the latter does not reach a depth
of much more than 500 metres. Below the two currents the
OCEANOGRAPHY
427
conditions are fairly homogeneous, and there is no difference worth
mentioning in the salinities.
The conditions between the surface and a depth of 1,000 metres
along the two main lines of course are clearly shown in the two
sections (Figs. 11 and 12) . In these the isotherms for every second
degree are drawn in broken lines. Lines connecting points with
the same salinity (isohalins) are drawn unbroken, and, in addition,
salinities above 35 per mille are shown by shadmg. Above is a
series of figures, giving the numbers of the stations. To understand
Fig. 10. — Salinities at Station 32 (in the Benguela Current,
July 22, 1911), and at Station 60 (in the Brazil
Current, August 19, 1911).
the sections rightly it must be borne in mind that the vertical scale
is 2,000 times greater than the horizontal.
Many of the conditions we have already mentioned are clearly
apparent in the sections: the small variations between the surface
and a depth of about 100 metres at each station; the decrease of
temperature and salinity as the depth increases; the high values
both of temperature and salinity in the western part as compared
with the eastern. We see from the sections how nearly the
isotherms and isohalins follow each other. Thus, where the
428 APPENDIX V
temperature is 12° C, the water almost invariably has a salinity
very near 35 per mille. This water at 12° C, with a salinity of
35 per mille, is found in the western part of the area (in the
Brazil Current) at a depth of 500 to 600 metres, but in the
eastern part (in the Benguela Current) no deeper than 200 to 250
metres (109 to 136 fathoms).
We see further in both sections, and especially in the southern
one, that the isotherms and isohalins often have an undulating
course, since the conditions at one station may be different from
those at the neighbouring stations. To point to one or two
examples: at Station 19 the water a few hundred metres dowTi
was comparatively warm; it was, for instance, 12° C. at about
470 metres (256 fathoms) at this station; while the same tempera-
ture was found at about 340 metres (185 fathoms) at both the
neighbouring stations, 18 and 20. At Station 2 it was relatively
cold, as cold as it was a few hundred metres deeper down at
Stations 1 and 3.
These undulating curves of the isotherms and isohalins are
familiar to us in the Norwegian Sea, where they have been shown
in most sections taken in recent years. They may be explained in
more than one way. They may be due to actual waves, which are
transmitted through the central waters of the sea. Many things
go to show that such waves may actually occur far below the
surface, in which case they must attain great dimensions; they
must, indeed, be more than 100 metres high at times, and yet-
fortunately — they are not felt on the surface. In the Norwegian
Sea we have frequently found these wave-like rises and falls. Or
the curves may be due to differences in the rapidity and direction
of the currents. Here the earth's rotation comes into play, since,
as mentioned above, it causes zones of water to be depressed on one
side and raised on the other; and the degree of force with which
this takes place is dependent on the rapidity of the current and on
the geographical latitude. The effect is slight in the tropics, but
^reat in high latitudes. This, so far as it goes, agrees with the
OCEANOGRAPHY
429
430 APPENDIX V
fact that the curves of the isotherms and isohalins are more
marked in the more southerly of our two sections than in the
more northerly one, which lies 10 or 15 degrees nearer the
Equator.
But the probability is that the curves are due to the formation
of eddies in the currents. In an eddy the light and w^arm water
will be depressed to greater depths if the eddy goes contrary to the
hands of a clock and is situated in the southern hemisphere. We
appear to have such an eddy around Station 19, for example.
Around Station 2 an eddy appears to be going the other way;
that is, the same way as the hands of a clock. On the chart
of currents we have indicated some of these eddies from the obser-
vations of the distribution of salinity and temperature made by the
Fram Expedition.
While this, then, is the probable explanation of the irregularities
shown by the lines of the sections, it is not impossible that they
may be due to other conditions, such as, for instance, the submarine
waves alluded to above. Another possibility is that they may be a
consequence of variations in the rapidity of the current, produced,
for instance, by wind. The periodical variations caused by the
tides will hardly be an adequate explanation of what happens
here, although during Murray and Hjort's Atlantic Expedition in
the Michael Sars (in 1910), and recently during Nansen's voyage
to the Arctic Ocean in the Veslemoy (in 1912), the existence of
tidal currents in the open ocean was proved. It may be hoped
that the further examination of the Fram material will make these
matters clearer. But however this may be, it is interesting to
establish the fact that in so great and deep an ocean as the South
Atlantic very considerable variations of this kind may occur
between points which he near together and in the same current.
As we have already mentioned in passing, the observations show
that the same temperatures and salinities as are found at the
surface are continued downward almost unchanged to a depth
of between 75 and 150 metres; on an average it is about
OCEANOGRAPHY 431
100 metres. This is a typical winter condition, and is due
to the vertical circulation already mentioned, which is caused by
the surface water being cooled in winter, thus becoming heavier
than the water below, so that it must sink and give place to lighter
water which rises. In this way the upper zones of water become
mixed, and acquire almost equal temperatures and salinities. It
thus appears that the vertical currents reached a depth of about
100 metres in July, 1911, in the central part of the South Atlantic.
This cooling of the water is a gain to the air, and what happens
is that not only the surface gives off warmth to the air, but also the
sub-surface waters, to as great a depth as is reached by the vertical
circulation. This makes it a question of enormous values.
This state of things is clearly apparent in the sections, where
the isotherms and isohalins run vertically for some way below the
surface. It is also clearly seen when we draw the curves of dis-
tribution of salinity and temperature at the different stations, as
we have done in the two diagrams for Stations 32 and 60 (Fig. 9).
The temperatures had fallen several degrees at the surface at the
time the FrarrCs investigations were made. And if we are to
judge from the general appearance of the station curves, and from
the form they usually assume in summer in these regions, we shall
arrive at the conclusion that the whole volume of water from the
surface down to a depth of 100 metres must be cooled on an
average about 2° C.
As already pointed out, a simple calculation gives the following:
if a cubic metre of water is cooled 1 C, and the whole quantity
of warmth thus taken from the water is given to the air, it will
be sufl&cient to warm more than 3,000 cubic metres of air 1° C.
A few figures will give an impression of what this means. The
region lying between lats. 15° and 35° S. and between South
America and Africa — roughly speaking, the region investigated
by the Fram Expedition — has an area of 13,000,000 square kilo-
metres. We may now assume that this part of the ocean gave off
so much warmth to the air that a zone of water 100 metres in
432 APPENDIX V
depth was thereby cooled on an average 2° C. This zone of
water weighs about 1'5 trillion kilogrammes, and the quantity of
warmth given off thus corresponds to about 2 '5 trillion great
calories.
It has been calculated that the whole atmosphere of the earth
weighs 5*27 trillion kilogrammes, and it will require something
over 1 trilhon great calories to warm the whole of this mass of
air 1 C. From this it follows that the quantity of warmth
which, according to our calculation, is given off to the air from
that part of the South Atlantic lying between lats. 15° and 35° S.,
will be sufficient to warm the whole atmosphere of the earth
about 2° C, and this is only a comparatively small part of the
ocean. These figures give one a powerful impression of the
important part played by the sea in relation to the air. The sea
stores up warmth when it absorbs the rays of the sun; it gives off
warmth again when the cold season comes. We may compare
it with earthenware stoves, which continue to warm our rooms long
after the fire in them has gone out. In a similar way the sea
keeps the earth warm long after summer has gone and the sun's
rays have lost their power.
Now it is a familiar fact that the average temperature of the air
for the whole year is a little lower than that of the sea; in winter
it is, as a rule, considerably lower. The sea endeavours to raise
the temperature of the air; therefore, the warmer the sea is, the
higher the temperature of the air will rise. It is not surprising,
then, that after several years' investigations in the Norwegian Sea
we have found that the winter in Northern Europe is milder than
usual when the water of the Norwegian Sea contains more than
the average amount of warmth. This is perfectly natural. But
we ought now to be able to go a step farther and say beforehand
whether the winter air will be warmer or colder than the normal
after determining the amount of warmth in the sea.
It has thus been shown that the amount of warmth in that part
of the ocean which we call the Norwegian Sea varies from year to
OCEANOGRAPHY
433
year. It was shown by the Atlantic Expedition of the Michael
Sars in 1910 that the central part of the North Atlantic was con-
siderably colder in 1910 than in 1873, when the Challenger Expedi-
tion made investigations there; but the temperatures in 1910
9k
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Fig. 13. — Temperatures at One of the "Fram's" and One op the
"Challenger's" Stations, to the South of the
South Equatorial Current.
were about the same as those of 1876, when the Challenger was on
her way back to England.
We can now make similar comparisons as regards the South
Atlantic. In 1876 the Challenger took a number of stations
in about the same region as was investigated by the Fram. The
Challenger's Station 339 at the end of March, 1876, lies near the
434 APPENDIX V
point where the Frarris Station 44 was taken at the beginning
of August, 1911. Both these stations lay in about lat. 17'5° S.,
approximately half-way between Africa and South America — that
is, in the region where a relatively slack current runs westward,
to the south of the South Equatorial Current. We can note the
difference in Fig. 13, which shows the distribution of temperature
at the two stations. The Challenger'' s station was taken during
the autumn and the Frarris during the winter. It was therefore
over 3° C. warmer at the surface in March, 1876, than in August,
1911. The curve for the Challenger station shows the usual dis-
tribution of temperature immediately below the surface in summer;
the temperature falls constantly from the surface downward. At
the Frarris station we see the typical winter conditions; we
there find the same temperature from the surface to a depth of
100 metres, on account of cooling and vertical circulation. In
summer, at the beginning of the year 1911, the temperature curve
for the Frames station would have taken about the same form
as the other curve; but it would have shown higher temperatures,
as it does in the deeper zones, from 100 metres down to about
500 metres. For we see that in these zones it was throughout
1° C. or so warmer in 1911 than in 1876; that is to say, there
was a much greater store of warmth in this part of the ocean
in 1911 than in 1876. May not the result of this have been that
the air in this region, and also in the east of South America and
the west of Africa, was warmer during the winter of 1911 than
during that of 1876? We have not sufficient data to be able
to say with certainty whether this difference in the amount of
warmth in the two years applied generally to the whole ocean,
or only to that part which surrounds the position of the station;
but if it was general, we ought probably to be able to find a
corresponding difference in the climate of the neighbouring
regions. Between 500 and 800 metres (272 and 436 fathoms)
the temperatures were exactly the same in both years, and at
900 and 1,000 metres (490 and 545 fathoms) there was only a
OCEANOGRAPHY
435
difference of two or three tenths of a degree. In these deeper
parts of the ocean the conditions are probably very similar; we
have there no variations worth mentioning, because the warming
of the surface and sub-surface waters by the sun has no effect
there, unless, indeed, the currents at these depths may vary so
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Fig. 14. — Temperatubes at One op the "Fham's" and One op the
"Valdivia's" Stations, in the Benguela Current.
much that there may be a warm current one year and a cold one
another year. But this is improbable out in the middle of the
ocean.
In the neighbourhood of the African coast, on the other hand, it
looks as if there may be considerable variations even in the deeper
zones below 500 metres (272 fathoms). During the Valdivia
436 APPENDIX V
Expedition in 1898 a station (No. 82) was taken in the Benguela
Current in the middle oi October, not far from the point at which
the Pram's Station 31 lay. The temperature curves from here
show that it was much warmer (over 1*5° C.) in 1898 than in 1911
in the zones between 500 and 800 metres (272 and 436 fathoms).
Probably the currents may vary considerably here. But in the
upper waters of the Benguela Current itself, from the surface down
to 150 metres, it was considerably warmer in 1911 than in 1898;
this difiference corresponds to that which we found in the previous
comparison of the Challenger^ s and Frames stations of 1876 and
1911. Between 200 and 400 metres (109 and 218 fathoms) there
was no difference between 1898 and 1911; nor was there at 1,000
metres (545 fathoms).
In 1906 some investigations of the eastern part of the South
Atlantic were conducted by the Planet. In the middle of March a
station was taken (No. 25) not far from St. Helena and in the
neighbourhood of the Pram's Station 39, at the end of July, 1911.
Here, also, we find great variations; it was much warmer in 1911
than in 1906, apart from the winter cooling by vertical circulation
of the sub-surface waters. At a depth of only 100 metres (54 '5
fathoms) it was 2° C. warmer in 1911 than in 1906; at 400 metres
(218 fathoms) the difference was over 1°, and even at 800 metres
(436 fathoms) it was about 0'75° C. warmer in 1911 than in 1906.
At 1,000 metres (545 fathoms) the difference was only 0'3°.
From the Planet's station we also have problems of salinity,
determined by modern methods. It appears that the salinities at
the Planet station, in any case to a depth of 400 metres, were
lower, and in part much lower, than those of the Pram Expedition.
At 100 metres the difference was even greater than 0 5 per mille;
this is a great deal in the same region of open sea. Now, it must
be remembered that the current in the neighbourhood of St. Helena
may be regarded as a continuation of the Benguela Current, which
comes from the south and has relatively low salinities. It looks,
therefore, as if there were yearly variations of salinity in these
OCEANOGRAPHY
437
»
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Fig. 15— Temperatures at the "Planet's" Station 25, and the
"Fram's" Station 39 — both in the Neighbourhood op
St. Helena.
Fig. 16.— Salinities at the "Planet's" Station 25 (Mabch 19, 1906),
AND the "Fram's" Station 39 (July 29, 1911).
438 APPENDIX V
regions. This may either be due to corresponding variations in the
Benguela Current — partly because the relation between precipita-
tion and evaporation may vary in different years, and partly
because there may be variations in the acquisition of less saline
water from the Antarctic Ocean. Or it may be due to the
Benguela Current in the neighbourhood of St. Helena having
a larger admixture of the warm and salt water to the west of it in
one year than in another. In either case we may expect a rela-
tively low salinity (as in 1906 as compared with 1911) to be
accompanied by a relatively low temperature, such as we have
found by a comparison of the Planet's observations with those of
the Fram.
We require a larger and more complete material for comparison;
but even that which is here referred to shows that there may be
considerable yearly variations both in the important, relatively
cold Benguela Current, and in the currents in other parts of the
South Atlantic. It is a substantial result of the observations
made on the Fram's voyage that they give us an idea of great
annual variations in so important a region as the South Atlantic
Ocean. When the whole material has been further examined
it will be seen whether it may also contribute to an understanding
of the climatic conditions of the nearest countries, where there
is a large population, and where, in consequence, a more accurate
knowledge of the variations of climate will have more than a mere
scientific interest.
CopiTiiiht JSIZ RotUil Amundset
INDEX
Adams, companion of Shackleton
(October, 1908), i. 39
Adare, Cape, ii. 190
Adelaide Island, discovered in 1830,
i. 8
Adelie Land, discovered in 1840, i. 9
Adelie penguins, i. 176
Adie standard barometers, ii. 376
(Appendix)
Air: temperatm'e and thermometers,
ii. 377 (Appendix); humidity of
the, ii. 378
Albatross, ii. 302, 333, 338
Alcohol, use of, i. 69
Alexandra Mountains, ii. 240, 246
Andersson, Dr. Gunnar, of the
Swedish expedition, i. 33; ii. 249
Antarctic Circle, i. 164; ii. 302
Antarctic discovery, historical outhne
of, i. 3 et seq.
Antarctic, expedition of the, under
Nordenskjold (1901), i. 32 et seq.
"Antarctica," discovered by Captain
Kristensen (1895), i. 18
Apparatus for taking water tempera-
tures, ii. 318 et seq., 407
Archer, Colin, builder of the Fram,
ii. 356 (Appendix)
Argtoweki, Henryk, geologist of the
Belgian expedition, i. 19
Armitage, Lieutenant, of the Dis-
covery expedition, i. 26
Arrival at the South Pole, ii. 121
et seq.
Astronomical observations, report on,
ii. 399 et seq. (Appendix)
Aurora (Dr. Mawson's ship), i. 202;
ii. 352
Aurora austrahs, i. 254, 283, 347;
ii. 339, 353, 383 (Appendix)
Avalanches, ii. 58, 157
Axel Heiberg Glacier, ii. 47, 53, 156,
157
Balleny Islands, discovered by John
BaUeny (1830), i. 8; ii. 191
Balloon Bight, ii. 287
Barne, Mr., of the Discovery expedi-
tion, i. 26
Barometers: lowest reading recorded,
ii. 313; outfit of, ii. 373 et seq.
(Appendix)
Barrier: the great Antarctic or Ross,
i. 14, 25, 48, 49, 259, ii. 287; the
Fram reaches (January 13, 1911),
i. 167, ii. 287; landing at, i. 171;
ascent of, i. 208, 214; the house
on the, i. 287; weather conditions
on, i. 346; its soUd foundation,
i. 347; return to, ii. 159; the
Eastern expedition crosses the,
ii. 217; sea edge of the, ii. 232, 265;
Prestrud's description of, ii. 298
Bay of Biscay, i. 114
Bay of Whales. See Whales
Beacons: erection of, ii. 22, 25, 75;
value of, ii. 85, 134, 137
Beard-cUpping, ii. 101
Beardmore Glacier, i. 39; ii. 29
Beck: one of the sea party, i. 179;
on the Buenos Aires trip, ii.
293
Belgian expedition, the, i. 18 et
seq.
Belgica : leaves Antwerp (1897),
i. 18; results of her voyage, i. 20;
is caught in the ice, i. 21; suffer-
ings of the crew, i. 23; reaches
Straits of Magellan (March, 1899),
i. 25
439
440
INDEX
von Bellingshausen (explorer) dis-
covers land south of Antarctic
Circle, i. 8
Benguela Current, investigations of
the, ii. 417 et seq. (Appendix)
Bemacchi, physicist of the Discovery
expedition, i. 26
Betty, Mount. See Mount
Binoculars, i. 87, 246
Biscoe, John, discovers Enderby
Land and Graham Land, i. 8
Biscoe Bay, ii. 247
Biscoe Island discovered (1830), i. 8
Biscuits, i. 88; ii. 36
Bjaaland, Olav: ski-maker, i. 137,
138; one of the land party, i. 179;
left at Framheim, i. 206; his
underground workshop, i. 312;
constructs a vapour - bath, i. 330
et seq.; builds four new sledges,
i. 349; one of the Pole party, ii. 20;
the excellence of his sledges, ii. 92;
his reliability as "forerunner,"
ii. 166
Blankets, i. 63, 67
Bhgh's Cap (Kerguelen), i. 156
Blizzard: of November 26, 1911,
ii. 69 et seq.; of December 2, ii. 97
Blom, Captain Christian, i. 95; his
account of the construction of the
Fram, ii. 356 et seq. (Appendix)
Boots, i. 65, 351, 369, 429; for ski-
ing, i. 83, 84, 170, 225
Borchgrevink, Carstens, leader of the
Southern Cross expedition (1899),
i. 25
Bouvet (explorer), i. 5
Bouvet Island, i. 26
Brakes for sledges, ii. 45
Brazil Current, investigations of the,
ii. 417 et seq. (Appendix)
Breakfast at lYamheim, i. 290
et seq.
Bruce, Dr. William: his first ex-
ploration to the South Shctlands
in the Balcena (1892), i. 17; with
Mr. Andrew Coats in Spitzbergen,
i. 35; sails in the Scotia to the
South Orkneys, i. 35; discovers
Coats Land, i. 35
Buenos Aires: arrival of the Fram
at, ii. 315; street accident in,
ii. 322; departure from (June 8,
1911), ii. 316; return to (Septem-
ber 1, 1911), ii. 328; want of money
at, ii. 329; second departure from
(October 5, 1911), ii. 331; last
arrival at (May, 1912), ii. 354
Buntline, use of (on a sail), ii. 309
(note)
Burberry windproof clothing, i. 81;
ii. 220
"Butcher's Shop," the, ii. 63, 150
et seq.
Cabins, fitting of, i. 66
Cabral (explorer), i. 4
Cameras, i. 88
Campbell, Lieutenant, of the Terra
Nova, i. 204; ii. 294
Canary, "Fridtjof," the, i. 61; ii. 312
Cape Adare, ii. 190
Cape Colbect, ii. 239
Cape Horn: in calm weather, ii. 315;
snowstorm off, ii. 354
Cape Hudson, i. 29
Cape Man's Head, ii. 183, 289
Carmen Land, ii. 171
Carpenter's shop, i. 272
Cases of provisions, landing the (at
Framheim), ii. 291
Challenger expedition, the, i. 16; ii. 433
Charcot, Dr. Jean, discovers the
Loubet, FaUieres, and Charcot
Lands, i. 35
Chocolate, i. 89; ii. 36
Christmas Day in the Fram (1910),
i. 159 et seq.; at 88° S., i. 533; at
Framheim, ii. 264; (1911) at sea,
ii. 339
Christophersen, Moimt Don Pedro.
See under Don
Christophersen, Don Pedro, ii. 329,
330, 354
Chun, Professor (of Leipzig), and the
Valdivia expedition, i. 26
Cigars, i. 70, 98; at the Pole, ii. 132
Cinematograph, ii. 2
Clothing: Polar, i. 61, 365, ii. 220;
boots, i. 65, 83; sealskin, i. 66;
INDEX
441
reindeer-skin, i. 78, 79, 209, 365;
Burberry windproof, i. 81, ii. 220;
mits and gloves, i. 82; on the first
trip, i. 217; stockings, i. 357;
carried in sledges, ii. 19
Clothing store constructed, i. 277,
350; ii. 37, 102, 220, 265
Colbeck, Cape, ii. 239
Compasses, i. 86, 87, 245
Cook, Captain James, crosses the
Antarctic Circle (1773), i. 7
Cook, Frederick A., of Brooklyn:
surgeon of the Belgian expedition,
i. 19; his good work, i. 23, 24
Cooking apparatus, i. 85, 191
"Crab-eater" seals, ii. 276
Crevasses. See Fissures
Crozet Islands, ii. 336
Cyclones, ii. 313
Dallmann, Captain Eduard, and the
Gronland, i. 16
Danco, Lieutenant Emile, of the
Belgian expedition, i. 19, 22
David, Professor, reaches the South
Magnetic Pole in Shackleton's ex-
pedition, i. 40
Depots: erection of the first, i. 219;
fixing its position 80° S., i. 230, 231,
ii. 173; the second (in 81° S.),
i. 233, ii. 172; the third (in 82° S.),
i. 239; last depot journey starts
(March 31), i. 254; list of pro-
visions in the three depots, i. 258;
state of the depot 82° S. m October,
ii. 127, 169; the fourth (83° S.)
constructed, ii. 129, 167; the fifth
(84° S.), ii. 131; the sixth (85° S.),
ii. 33, 162; the seventh (86° 21' S.),
u. 79, 81; the last (88° 25' S.),
u. 115
Detdschland, the (German expedi-
tion), ii. 353
Devil's BaUroom, the, ii. 103, 145
Devil's Glacier, the, ii. 84, 94, 145
Diaz, Bartholomew, i. 4
Diesel engine of the Fram, ii. 370
(Appendix)
Discovery: expedition sails from
Cowes imder Captain Robert Scott,
VOL. II.
August, 1901, i. 26; discovers King
Edward VII. Land and winters in
McMurdo Bay, i. 27; results of
sledge expeditions, i. 28; the relief
ship Morning brings orders, i. 29;
return home of the Discovery
(September, 1904), i. 29
Dobrowolski, Antoine, meteorologist
of the Belgian expedition, i. 19
Dog cutlets, ii. 57, 64, 65, 69
Dog-drivers, advantage of experi-
enced, i. 50
Dog-harness. See Harness
Dogs: food for, i. 56; obtained from
Greenland, i. 56; preferable to
Manchurian ponies, i. 57 et seq.;
harness for, i. 86; taken on board
the Fram, i. 106; arrangements
for their comfort, i. 108 et seq.;
their food on board the Fram,
i. 119, 120; howling concerts, i,
120, 195; a fitter of puppies, i.
121, 142; in the heat of the tropics,
i. 142; let loose on deck, i. 145;
two lost overboard, i. 153; first
start in harness, i. 181, 182; love
their work, i. 187 et seq.; respect
their master, i. 196; Lassesen
frost-bitten, i. 201 ; their perform-
ance on the first depot journeys,
i. 220, 221; sore feet, i. 231; faUs
into fissures, i. 235; end of second
journey, i. 240; death of Thor
and Lurven, i. 242; and of Ras-
mus, i. 243; the "Three Muske-
teers," i. 244; more losses, i. 248;
Fix and Lassesen, i. 252; the
puppies fie outside, i. 254; losses
on the third journey, i. 257; more
fitters, i. 260; Camilla's nursery,
i. 262; the kennels at Framheim,
i. 303 et seq.; fate of Else's pup-
pies, i. 346; losses during the
winter, i. 372; their behaviour on
being put again to work, i. 374
et seq.; stragglers fetched home,
i. 391; losses on the start for the
Pole, u. 4, 14; Uranus, Jaala, and
Lucy shot, ii. 28; a record run,
u. 62; twenty-four dogs shot, ii.
54
442
INDEX
62; the "Butcher's Shop," ii. 63;
theu* omnivorous behaviour, ii. 110;
splendid condition of Hanssen's
team, ii. 115; deaths of Helge
and the Major, ii. 123; of Lasse,
ii. 137; of Per, ii. 139; of Svart-
fiekken, ii. 140; health of, on the
return journey, ii. 143; Frith j of
has to be killed, ii. 160; the re-
mains of Jaala and her puppies,
ii. 169; on board the Fram once
more, ii. 182; seal-hunting by, ii.
213, 214; on the eastern sledge
jovu^ey, ii. 215; Peary turns up
again, ii. 224; twenty-two dogs
given to Dr. Mawson's expedition,
ii. 352
Dog-tents, i. 223, 261
Don Pedro Christophersen, Mount,
ii. 30, 44, 48, 52, 149, 154, 156
Dougherty Island, ii. 302
Drake, Sir Francis, i. 5
Drygalski, Professor, of the German
Gauss expedition, i. 29
Dumont d'Urville, Admiral, dis-
covers Louis Philippe Land and
JoinviUe Island (1838), AdeUe
Land (1840), i. 9
Eastern sledge journey: Prestrud's
account of the, ii. 204; objects of
the, ii. 206; on the Barrier, ii. 217,
230; its sea edge, ii. 232; arrival
at Depot No. 1, ii. 225; outfit and
equipment, ii. 226; presence of
petrels and skua gulls, ii. 231;
sounding the bay, ii. 234; Queen
Maud's birthday (November 26),
ii. 236; Alexandra Mountains, ii.
246; geological discoveries, ii. 249;
a three days' snowstorm, ii. 252
et seq.
Emerald Island wrongly chartered,
ii. 196
Emperor penguin, the, i. 185, 201
"Encirchng" the Pole, ii. 125 et seq.
Eriderby Brothers send John Biscoe
to the Antarctic Ocean (1830), i. 8
Engine, Diesel motor, of the Fram,
i. 98; ii. 281, 302, 370
Equipment: medical, i. 71; ammu-
nition, i. 72; petroleum, i. 72;
scientific, i. 73; hut (wooden), i.
73; tents, i. 75, 77; sledges, i. 76;
skis, i. 76; importance of fore-
sight in providing, i. 370; amounts
carried in the sledges, i. 410, 411;
of the eastern sledge party, ii. 225,
226
Evensen, Captain, approaches near
Alexander I. Land, i. 17
Eyes, soreness of, i. 215; ii. 242, 261
Farthest South hitherto reached
(88° 23') is passed, ii. 114
Feet: effect of soft and hard boots
on, i. 83; frozen heels, i. 387
Ferrar, geologist of the Discovery
expedition, i. 26
Fissures: on the Barrier, i. 235, 256,
ii. 3, 7; on the dangerous zone,
ii. 11, 12, 23, 24, 25, 98; the DevU's
BaUroom, ii. 103, 104, 161 ; the
eastern sledge party's experiences
of, ii. 210, 238
Flag of Norway unfurled at 88° 23',
ii. 114; and at the Pole, ii. 122
Flying-fish, ii. 283
"Foggj' Fifties," the, ii. 337
Forerunner, ii. 221, 227
Fossils, ii. 249
Fram, the : course of her second
voyage, i. 39 ; Lieutenant Nilsen
her commander, i. 45, 207 ; plan
of campaign for third voyage, i. 46;
cabin fiu-niture, i. 66 ; hbrary and
games, i. 68 ; loading the cargo,
i. 90 ; leaves Christiania for Bimde-
fjord (June 3, 1910), i. 92 ; takes
in ammunition at Horten (June 7),
i. 94 ; her sailing quahties, i. 96
et seq., ii. 335 ; return to Bergen
to repair the motor, i. 98, ii. 281 ;
takes in the Eskimo dogs, i. 100,
106, ii. 281 ; final departure from
Christiansand (August 9, 1910),
ii. 281 ; anchors in the Do^^'n9 off
Deal, i. 112 ; in the Bay of Biscay,
i. 114 ; washing decks, i. 116 ;
arrival at Madeira (September 5,
INDEX
443
1910), i. 125, ii. 282 ; state of her
hull, i. 139 ; her rigging, i. 140 ;
crossing the Une, i. 148, ii. 284 ; in
a gale off the Cape, i. 152 ; meals
on board, i. 157 ; Christmas Day
(1910), i. 159 ; in the Antarctic
Circle, i. 164 ; enters the Ross Sea,
i. 166 ; reaches the Great Ice
Barrier (January 13, 1911), i. 167,
ii. 287 ; enters the Bay of Whales,
i. 169 ; farewell to, i. 207 ; her
departure, i. 220, ii. 207; her return
from Buenos Aires (January 8),
ii. 174, 267 et seq.; arrival at
Hobart, ii. 202 et seq.; account of
her voyage from Norway to the
Barrier by Lieutenant Nilsen, ii. 280
et seq., and from the Barrier to
Buenos Aires, ii. 294 et seq.;
Lieutenant Nilsen • receives his
orders for her voyage to Buenos
Aires, ii. 296 ; her rolling capabili-
ties, ii. 304 ; her behaviour in a
hurricane, ii. 309 et seq.; even
temperature maintained in her
hold, ii. 315 ; repainting of, ii. 323 ;
visit to Buenos Aires (June, 1911),
ii. 315, 316, 322 ; wear and tear of
sails, ii. 324 ; plague of rats, ii. 326;
return to Buenos Aires (September,
1911), ii. 328; second departure from
(October, 1911), ii. 331 ; arrival off
the Barrier (January, 1912), ii. 344,
346, 349 ; final departure (January
30, 1912), ii. 350 ; slow progress to
Hobart, ii. 352 ; arrival at Buenos
Aires (May 23, 1912), ii. 354 ;
Commodore Blom's account of her
construction, ii. 356 et seq. (Ap-
pendix) ; Captain Otto Sverdrop's
alterations for his expeditions,
ii. 362
"Framheim," i. 194, 202 ; big addi-
tions to, i. 222 ; seen in mirage,
i. 247 ; return to (after second
journey), i. 248 ; hfe at, i. 253, 283
et seq.; the workshops, i. 309 et seq.;
the library, i. 314 ; a vapour-bath,
i. 330 et seq.; a feast underground,
i. 338 ; dart-throwing competition.
i. 340; "lights out," i. 343; arrival
at, on return journey, ii. 173
"Fridtjof," the canary, i. 61 ; ii. 312
Fridtjof Nansen, Mount. See under
Mount
Fridtjof Nansen, Professor. See under
Nansen
Frost-bite, i. 83 ; ii. 99
Frost-sores, ii. 116
Gauss expedition : leaves Kiel
(August, 1901), i. 30 ; discovers
Kaiser Wilhehn II. Land and the
Gaussberg, i. 31 ; returns home
with good scientific results (1903),
i. 31
Geology, ii. 249, 395 et seq. (Appendix)
Gerlache, Commander Adrien de,
leads the Belgian expedition (1897),
i. 18
Gerritsz, Dirk (explorer), i. 5
Gjertsen, Lieutenant, i. 72, 103 ; one
of the sea party, i. 179 ; his return
to Framheim, ii. 269, 346 ; on the
Buenos Aires trip, ii. 294, 315
Glaciers, ii. 41 et seq., 47 ; the Axel
Heiberg, ii. 47, 53, 56, 57, 58 ; the
Devil's, ii. 84, 94, 103
Gloves, i. 82
Goggles, snow, i. 87, 215, 362, 367 ;
ii. 243
de Gonneville (explorer), i. 4
Gramophone, ii. 191
Gulf Stream, investigations of the,
ii. 408 et seq. (Appendix)
Haakon VII., King of Norway, i. 2,
66 ; visits the Fram, i. 92
HaUey, Astronomer Royal, i. 5
Halvorsen joins the Fram at Buenos
Aires, ii. 188
Hansen, Ludwig : one of the sea
party, i. 179 ; on the Buenos Aires
trip, ii. 294
Hanssen, Helmer : of the land party,
i. 179, 211, 212.; his good sight,
i. 246 ; his work at Framheim, i.
318 ; makes the whips, i. 359 ;
one of the party for the Pole, ii. 20 ;
over a crevasse, ii. 24
4<44
INDEX
Harness for dogs (Alaska v. Green-
land), i. 86, 185, 369
Hassel : takes charge of the dogs,
i. 101 ; one of the land party, i.
179 ; left at Framheim, i. 206 ; hia
carpenter's shop, i. 310 ; makes
the whip-lashes, i. 359 ; one of the
Pole party, ii. 20
Heels, frost-bitten, i. 387 et seq.
Heiberg Glacier, ii. 42, 48, 56, 157,
158
HeUand Hansen, Mount, ii. 77, 142
HeU's Gate, ii. 84, 86
Helmer Hanssen's Mountain, ii. 80,
85, 87, 90, 142, 145
Henry, Prince [of Portugal], i. 4
"His Majesty's BaUroom," ii. 104
Hobart Town, ii. 203, 352
Hodgson, biologist of the Discovery
expedition, i. 26
Holth, Dr., i. 71
Humidity of the air, ii. 378 (Appendix)
Hunger, accessions of, ii. 138
Hurricane, the Fram's behaviour
in a, ii. 309 et seq.
Hut (wooden), i. 73, 74, 75, 92 ;
foundation for, i. 184 ; erection of
the, i. 186, 191, 193 ; ventilation
of, i. 198
Hygrometers, ii. 378 (Appendix)
Icebergs": Lieutenant Prestrud's ex-
periences of, ii. 305, 306 et seq.;
temperature of water near, ii. 307,
308; total number met with, ii. 313
Ice-bhnk, the, ii. 287, 306
Ice-pack, the, in Ross Sea, ii. 341, 342
Ice-tools, i. 72
Japanese expedition, i. 45 ; ii. 184,
271, 272, 347
Johansen : one of the land party,
i. 179, 211 ; how he packs the
sledge provision cases, i. 322 ; on
the Eastern expedition, ii. 215
Kainan Maru [Japanese] expedition,
i. 45 ; ii. 184, 272, 347, 353
Kaiser Wilhelm II. Land discovered,
i. 31
Kemp (discoverer), i. 9
Kerguelen Island, ii. 337
de Kerguelen - Tremaree, reaches
Kerguelen (1772), i. 6
King Edward VII. Land : and the
Japanese expedition, i. 45 ; Prest-
rud's expedition to, ii. 206 et seq.,
228, 245 ; geology of, ii. 249 ;
originally discovered by Sir James
Ross (1842), ii. 297
King Haakon VII. 's Plateau at the
Pole, ii. 122
KoettUtz, Surgeon, of the Discovery
expedition, i. 26
Kristensen, Captain Leonard, dis-
covers "Antarctica" (1895), i. 18
Kristensen, H. : appointed reserve
engineer to the Fram, i. 117 ; one
of the sea party, i. 179 ; on the
Buenos Aires trip, ii. 294, 305
Kutschin: one of the sea party, i. 179,
ii. 294, 315 ; leaves the Fram at
Buenos Aires, ii. 188
La Plata River, ii. 315, 421
Larsen, Captain C. A. : brings fossils
from the Antarctic region (1892),
i. 17 ; commands the Antarctic in
Nordenskj old's expedition (1901),
i. 32
Lashings for sledges, i. 317, 318, 322,
350
Lecointe, Lieutenant G., and the
Belgian expedition, i. 18
Library : on board the Fram, i. 68,
139 ; at Framheim, i. 314
Lindstrom : in charge of the dogs,
i. 102 ; in charge of cooking, i. 153,
197 ; one of the land party, i. 179,
198 ; improves Framheim, i. 248 ;
tries to repair the thermograph,
i. 275 ; prepares breakfast, i. 290 ;
in charge of hbrary, i. 315 ; plays
patience, i. 328 ; remains at Fram-
heim, ii. 216 ; attack of snow-
bUndness, ii. 261
Live stock (pigs and sheep) from
Buenos Aires, ii. 332
Longitude, effect on the date of pass-
ing from east to west, ii. 298 (note)
INDEX
445
Louis Philippe Land discovered (1838),
i. 9
Maxil dialect, i. 302 (and note)
Mackay accompanies Professor David
(Shackleton expedition), i. 40
Macquarie Islands, wireless installa-
tion on, ii. 197
Madeira, arrival of the Fram at,
i. 125
Magellan, Ferdinand (explorer), i. 4
Manhue, Cape (Ross Barrier), i. 174
Man's Head, Cape, ii. 183, 289
Marion-Dufresne discovers the Crozet
Islands (1772), i. 6
Marshall, companion of Shackleton
(October, 1908), i. 39
Martin Vaz Islands, ii. 325
Matches, safety, i. 72
Maud, Queen (of Norway), i. 66 ;
visits the Fram, i. 92 ; birthday
celebration, ii. 236
Mawson : companion of Professor
David (Shackleton expedition),
i. 40 ; his observations in AdeUe
Land and on the Barrier, i. 233 ;
wishes to get dogs for his Antarctic
expedition, ii. 181, 352 ; installs a
wireless station on the Macquarie
Islands, ii. 197
Medical stores, i. 88 ; ii. 226
Medicine, i. 71; in sledge cases, ii. 19
Meteorological outfit on the Fram,
ii. 373 et seq. (Appendix)
Meteorological station, i. 200 ; its
equipment, i. 255, ii. 375'; observa-
tions, i. 266, ii. 372 et seq.; tempera-
ture records, i. 280 ; instruments
in sledges, ii. 19, 226
Milk-powder, i. 89 ; ii. 36
Mills, Dr. H. R., i. 1
Mirage, i. 247
Mits, i. 82
Money, Fram's shortage of, at Buenos
Aires, ii. 328, 329
Montevideo, ii. 317, 354
Moore, Lieutenant, liis voyage in the
Pagoda (1845), i. 15
Morning, relief ship to the Discovery,
i. 29
Motor of the Fram, behaviour of the,
i. 99, ii. 281, 302 ; built by the
Diesel Motor Company, ii. 370
Mount Alice Gade, ii. 30
Mount Alice Weld Jarlsberg, ii. 30
Mount Betty, ii. 37 ; its composition,
ii. 39, 395, 396; return to, ii. 159,161
Mount Crown Prince Olav, ii. 31
Moimt Don Pedro Chi-istophersen,
ii. 30, 44, 149, 1561
Mount Fridtjof Nansen. ii. 30, 44, 48,
52, 149, 154, 156
Mount Helland Hansen, ii. 77, 147
Mount Helmer Hanssen, ii. 77, 80,
85, 87, 90, 142, 145
Moimts Nelson and Ronniken, i. 172,
179
Mount Olav Bjaaland, ii. 80, 85, 145,
146
Mount Ole Engelstad, ii. 54, 58, 59,
155, 156
Mount Oscar Wisting, ii. 80, 85, 145
Mount Ruth Gade, ii. 30
Mount Sverre Hassel, ii. 80, 85, 145
Mount Thorvald Nilsen, ii. 80, 85, 87,
90, 142
Moimt Wilhelm Christophersen, ii. 54
Nansen, Moimt Fridtjof. See imder
Mount
Nansen, Professor Fridtjof, i. 95 ;
tribute to, ii. 175 ; his employment
of the Fram in his Arctic expedi-
tion (1893-1896), ii. 356 (Appendix)
von Neumayer, Professor Georg, i. 16
Nilsen, Captain Thorvald: first officer
of the Fram, i. 45 ; his accurate
calculations, i. 53; stows away the
provision cases, i. 90 ; one of the
sea party, i. 179, 207 ; his method
of getting through the pack-ice,
ii. 187 ; takes the Fram to and
from Buenos Aires, ii. 271 ; his
instructions, ii. 304
Nilsen, Mount. See Thorvald Nilsen
Nimrod Group (of Islands), ii. 302
Nodtvedt, one of the engineers of the
Fram, i. 117, 138 ; one of the sea
party, i. 179 ; leaves the Fram at
Buenos Aires, ii. 188, 294
446
INDEX
Nordenskjold, Dr. Otto, and the
Swedish Antarctic expedition, i. 32;
is landed at Snow Hill Island
(January, 1902), and in October,
1903, meets Dr. Andersson and
Lieutenant Duse from the Ant-
arctic, i. 33 ; they are joined by
Captain Irizar of the Uruguay,
i. 34 ; and by Captain Larsen after
the sinking of the Antarctic, i. 34 ;
importance of the results of the
expedition, i. 34 ; his geological
discoveries, ii. 249
Norway, King and Queen of. See
Haakon and Maud
Norwegian flag unfurled at farthest
south point (88° 23'), ii. 114
Norwegian whaling fleet's explora-
tions, i. 17
Nose-protectors, i. 366
Observations, meteorological, at Fram-
heim, ii. 372 et seq. (Appendix) ;
astronomical, 399 et seg. (Appendix)
Oceanography, ii. 404 et seq. (Ap-
pendix)
Olav Bjaaland, Mount, ii. 80, 85,
145, 146
Ole Engelstad, Mount, ii. 54, 58, 59,
155, 156
Olsen : in charge of kitchen in the
Fram, i. 153, 198 ; one of the sea
party, i. 179 ; joins the Fra7n at
Buenos Aires, ii. 188
Oscar Wisting, Mount, ii. 80
Pagoda, voyage of the, i. 15
Pedersen, Captain, i. 62
Pemmican : preparation of, i. 55, 56,
88, 322 ; packing of, ii. 18, 36;
ration of, ii. 143
Penguin Island, ii. 336
Penguins, ii. 276, 278, 336; the
Adelie, i. 176, ii. 277, 286; the
Emperor, i. 185, ii. 277, 293 ; their
cry, ii. 302
Pennal, Lieutenant, Commander of
the TerraWova, i. 204 ; ii. 294
Petrels : Antarctic, harbingers of
spring, i. 392 ; sea, ii. 231 ; snow,
ii. 286
Petroleum, i. 72
Photographic cameras, i. 88 ; taking
Hell's Gate, ii. 86
Pigeons: carrier, i. 114; Cape, ii. 333
Pitt Island discovered (1830), i. 8
Plankton specimens, ii. 323
Plateau south of Mount Engelstad,
arrival at, ii. 60
Pole : arrival at the South, ii. 121 ;
"encircling" the, ii. 125 et seq.;
appearance of the sun's motion at,
ii. 131 ; festival dinner at the,
ii. 132 ; cigars at, ii. 132 ; farewell
to"Polheim,"ii. 134
Prestrud, Lieutenant : informed of
the destination of the expedition,
i. 103 ; one of the land party,
i. 179 ; ascends the Barrier; i, 207,
211 ; rejoins the Fram as first
officer, ii. 189 ; his account of the
eastern sledge party, ii. 204 et seq.
Prince Edward Islands, ii. 336
Prince Henry of Portugal (the "Navi-
gator"), i. 4
Propeller, renewal of brasses of the,
ii. 298
Provisions : seal meat, i. 51 ; pemmi-
can, i. 55, 56, 88 ; alcohol, i. 69 ;
tobacco, i. 70 ; tea, coffee, and
sugar, i. 71 ; medicines, i. 71 ;
biscuits, i. 88 ; milk-powder, i. 89 ;
chocolate, i. 89 ; packing of the
sledge cases, i. 78, 362, 370, ii. 18 ;
rearranging the loads, ii. 67 ; land-
ing the cases at Framheim, ii. 291
Queen Maud of Norway. See Maud
Racovitza, Emile, biologist of the
Belgian expedition, i. 19
Rats on board the Fram, ii. 326
Reindeer-skin : clothing, i. 78, 79,
209, 365, ii. 37, 102 ; sleeping-bags,
i. 80, 81
Return journey, the, ii. 135 et seq.
"Roariing Forties," the, ii. 284, 337
Robertson, Captain Thomas (of
Dundee), commands the Scotia in
Brucc's expedition (1902), i. 35
Roll, Dr. Jacob, i. 71
INDEX
447
Ronne, M. : sailmaker of the Fram,
i. 134 ; his sewing-machine, i. 135 ;
one of the sea party, i. 179 ; har-
ness-maker, i. 185 ; on the Buenos
Aires trip, ii. 294
Ropes, Alpine, i. 170
Ross Barrier, the. See Barrier
Ross Sea, the, i. 166, ii. 186 ; calm-
ness of, ii. 301 ; the ice-pack in,
ii. 341
Ross, Sir James Clark : his expedi-
tion sails in 1839, i. 10 ; changes
his plans at Hobart, i. 11 ; crosses
the Antarctic Circle, i. 12 ; his dis-
coveries, i. 13, ii. 297 ; Mount
Erebus and Mount Terror, i. 13 ;
the Ross Barrier, i. 14, ii. 287 ;
returns to Hobart (April, 1841),
i. 14 ; starts again from Hobart
(February, 1842), i. 14 ; his third
voyage (December, 1842), i. 15 ;
result of his work, i. 15, ii. 297 ;
liis probable course through the
Ross Sea, ii. 340
Royds, Mr., of the Discovery expe-
dition, i. 26
Ruser, Captain Hans, of the Gauss
expedition, i. 30
Sails, wear and tear of, ii. 324
St. Helena, ii. 325
Sastrugi (wind-waves), ii. 107, 108,
144, 229
Schanz, Dr., his excellent snow-
goggles, i. 368
Schroer, Mrs., i. 160
Scientific instruments, i. 72, 73, 86,
87 ; ii. 19, 407
Scott, Captain Robert : leads the
Discovery expedition, i. 26 ; sub-
sequent expedition, i. 44, 47 ; his
route, i. 52, ii. 240; names "King
Edward VII. Land," ii. 297 ; ob-
tains geological information about
South Victoria Land, ii. 396, 398
(Appendix)
Scottish (Dundee) whaling fleet, ex-
plorations by, i. 16, 17
Scurvy, i. 51, 54
Sea-bed, sample-taking, ii. 321
Sea-leopards, ii. 214, 275
Seal-hunting, ii. 211 et seq., 289
Seal meat preferred to tinned food,
i. 51 ; ii. 285
Seals, i. 176, 178, 208 ; ii. 212, 274
Sealskin suits, i. 66
Seal steak and soup, i. 165 ; ii. 276,
285, 301
Sewing-machine, i. 134
Sextants, i. 73, 86
Shackleton, Sir Ernest, i. 1 ; falls ill
in the Discovery expedition (1901-
1904), i. 26 ; his expedition in the
Nimrod (August, 1907) starts
almost unnoticed, i. 37 ; his great
achievement (March, 1909), i. 37,
40 ; his plan of campaign, equip-
ment, and transport, i. 38 ; details
of his advance, i. 39 ; he reaches
88° 23' S., i. 40 ; Professor David
reaches the South Magnetic Pole,
i. 40 ; discovery of the Bay of
Whales, ii. 288
Shirase, Lieutenant, and the Kainan
Maru expedition, i. 45
Shovels, i. 269
Singlet Hill, i. 217
Skelton, Lieutenant, chief engineer
of the Discovery, i. 26
Ski-running difficulties, ii. 143
Skis, i. 76, 83, 137, 170, 208, 363,
ii. 21 ; their great value, ii. 89 ;
ii. 222
Skua gulls, ii. 164, 231
Sledge brakes, ii. 45
Sledge lashings, i. 317, 318, 322
Sledges, i. 76 ; cases for provisions
in, i. 78, 362, ii. 18 ; shoeing of,
i. 138 ; first start, i. 181, 211 et
seq.; four new ones built, i. 349,
351, ii. 92 ; packing of, i. 370 ; in
a crevasse, ii. 7 ; steep cUmbing,
ii. 46 ; reduction of stores on, ii.
67 ; one left near the Pole, ii. 129
Sleeping-bags, i. 79, 80, 251, 258,
366 ; ii. 19, 221
Smith, Captain WilMam, reaches the
South Shetlands (1819), i. 7
Snow-blindness, i. 215 ; ii. 243, 261
Snow-goggles, i. 87, 215 ; ii. 243, 261
448
INDEX
Snowy petrels, ii. 286
Snow "settling," noise of, i. 385
Snow, varying nature of the, ii. 117
Sounding for sea-bed specimens, ii.
321
Southern Cross expedition, the (1899),
i. 25
South Pole : arrival at, ii. 121 ; "en-
circUng" the Pole, ii. 125 et seq.;
the sun's position and motion, ii.
131. See also Pole
South Trinidad, ii. 325
Spades, i. 269
Spectacles, i. 87. See also Goggles
Spring, arrival of, i. 377, 379, 391,
392
Start for the Pole, the (October 20,
1911), ii. 1 ; loss of dogs, ii. 4 ;
accident at a crevasse, ii. 7 ; de-
parture from 80° S., ii. 30 ; arrival
at farthest south yet reached by
man (88° 23'), ii. 114
Stationery supphes, i. 67
Steller joins the Fram at Buenos
Aires, ii. 188
Stockings, i. 357, 365
Storm Bay (Tasmania), ii. 198
Stubberud, Jorgen, carpenter of the
Fram, i. 92; one of the land party,
i. 179 ; builds the hut, i. 186, 198 ;
left at Framheim, i. 206 ; makes
the whip-handles, i. 359, 360 ; on
the Eastern expedition, ii. 205,
215 ; a dangerous shp, ii. 233
Sundbeck, Knut, appointed engineer
to the Fram, i. 104, 117 ; one of
the sea party, i. 179; on the
Buenos Aires trip, ii. 294
Sun's appearance, position, and
motion at the Pole, ii. 131
Sverdrop, Captain Otto, uses the
Fram in his expeditions, ii. 362
(Appendix)
Sverre Hassel, Mount, ii. 80
Tasman (explorer), i. 5
Tawman Head and Island, ii. 198
Tasmania, its coast-line, ii. 198
"Teleraark swing," the, ii. 38
"Temperature guessing," i. 281
Temperature [of atmosphere] re-
cords, i. 347
Temperature [of ocean], apparatus
for taking, ii. 318 et seq., 407
Tent-pegs, i. 364
Tents, i. 75, 77 ; first pitched, i. 181 ;
at Framheim, i. 202 ; on first trip,
i. 215 ; second trip, i. 228 ; two
joined together, i. 236, 258, 352 ;
double or single, i. 352 ; the ques-
tion of colour, i. 354
Terra Nova : seahng vessel from
Newfoundland, accompanies the
Morning in the Discovery expe-
dition, i. 29 ; puts into Bay of
Whales, i. 203, ii. 293 ; to explore
King Edward VII. Land, ii. 297
Thermograph, i. 273
Thermometers, i. 280 ; ii. 373 et seq.
(Appendix)
Thermos flasks, i. 218
Thorvald Nilsen, Mount, ii. 80, 85,
87 ; its height, ii. 90 ; its different
appearance on the return, ii. 142
Tierra del Fuego, i. 5
Tinned provisions, i. 54
Tobacco, i. 70 ; at the Pole, ii. 124 ;
Wisting's gift, ii. 124
Torup, Professor Sophus, i. 54
Transport : dogs versus ponies, i. 56
et seq.; sledges, i. 76, 78 ; skis,
i. 76, 83; dog-harness, Alaska versus
Greenland, i. 86
Valdivia expedition (under Professor
Chun), i. 26
Vapour-bath at Framheim, i. 330
et seq.
Vasco da Gama, i. 4
Vespucci (explorer), i. 4
Water temperatures, apparatus for
taking, ii. 318 et seq., 407
Weather conditions on the Barrier,
i. 346
Weddell, James, discovers Weddell
Sea (1823), i. 8
WeddeU seal, the, ii. 275, 276
West Cape, ii. 287
INDEX
449
Whalers' explorations round South
Shetlands, i. 16, 17, 18
Whales, Bay of, i. 46, 47, 49, 167,
175, ii. 288 ; inner part frozen
over, i. 251; departure from [north-
ward bound], ii. 182 ; survey of
the south-western corner, ii. 265 ;
whahng prospects, ii. 273
Whales : near the Barrier, ii. 273,
293; the finner and the blue whale,
ii. 274 ; dead whale mistaken for
land, ii. 299
Whips and lashes, i. 359 ; a whip-
handle duel, i. 361
Wild, companion of Shackleton
(October, 1908), i. 39
Wilkes, Lieutenant Charles (American
explorer), i. 9
Wilson, Dr., surgeon and artist of
the Discovery expedition, i. 26
Wind : prevaihng from the south,
ii. 136 ; measurements of the, ii.
381 (Appendix)
Wind-waves {sastrugi), ii. 107, 108
Winter duties, i. 279
Winter, end of the, i. 346 et seq.
Wisting : his way with the dogs,
i. 102 ; in charge at Framheim
i. 210 ; his sewing-room, i. 319
one of the Pole party, ii. 20
cooks the dog cutlets, ii. 65, 69
makes a chocolate pudding, ii.
170
Zappfe, Mr., his assistance in fitting
out the expedition, i. 79
THE END
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